Northern Wilds

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Human Migrations

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A New Year and New Beginnings

January is a month of new beginnings. We are past the winter solstice and the days, imperceptibly at first, slowly begin to grow longer.

On the first of the month we enter a new year, when many of us make resolutions to change, to have new beginnings for ourselves. It is fitting, then, that our theme for this issue, Human Migrations, is about people who are seeking new beginnings by moving to the Northern Wilds.

Our writers profiled four individuals and one family who have moved to the Northern Wilds from the far corners of the earth and are building their lives here. For all of them, it was an abrupt change from their homes and countries they left behind. They must contend with everything from learning a new language to adjusting to our notorious winters. You may be surprised when you read about how well they are making these adjustments.

You’ll also find stories about folks who migrated to here and have become established in our communities. One of them is our own Elle Andra-Warner, who will tell just about anyone willing to listen about her Estonian roots. She chronicles

her long journey from post-war Europe to Canada in Strange Tales. Maren Webb travels the world by taking us to a handful of ethnic restaurants in her North Shore Dish column. Souvlaki anyone?

wolf spiders to weasels are active throughout the winter. Ali Juten introduces us to a young dog musher who is preparing for the Beargrease, which occurs later this month. We get the lowdown on the favorite fish

They must contend with everything from learning a new language to adjusting to our notorious

If you like eye candy, in this issue we are featuring the winners from our annual Northern Wilds Photo Contest. As always, we had hundreds of entries from which to choose, which makes it difficult for our staff—the contest judges—to select the winners. Check and see if your favorite photos are among the winners.

On the cold front, dog mushing columnist Erin Altemus tells of her travails of juggling her busy life as a new Mom who is working parttime, going to nursing school, living off-grid and training a competitive racing team. Emily Stone takes us beneath the snow to the subnivean zone, where creatures ranging from

of many ice anglers, the lake trout, from Gord Ellis. Amy Schmidt reminds us to wear sunscreen when we are outside, even in the winter.

Julia Prinselaar visits with the traditional crafters of the Thunder Bay Weavers and Spinners Guild. The wonders of the starry night are on display when Peter Fergus-Moore takes us to the David Thompson Observatory at Fort William Historical Park. Javier Serna reviews a pair of local winter brews. So curl up somewhere warm and cozy and enjoy a winter evening with this edition of Northern Wilds. —Shawn Perich and Amber Pratt

JANUARY 2018 VOLUME 15, ISSUE 01 www.northernwilds.com SERVING THE NORTH SHORE AND THE WILDERNESS BEYOND

PUBLISHERS

Shawn Perich & Amber Pratt

EDITORIAL

Shawn Perich, Editor editor@northernwilds.com

Breana Roy, Managing Editor breana@northernwilds.com

ADVERTISING

Sue O’Quinn, Sales Representative sue@northernwilds.com

GRAPHIC DESIGN

Katie Viren • katie@northernwilds.com

Drew Johnson • drew@northernwilds.com

OFFICE

Roseanne Cooley billing@northernwilds.com

CONTRIBUTORS

Erin Altemus, Elle Andra-Warner, Michael Creger, Gord Ellis, Peter Fergus-Moore, Casey Fitchett, Ali Juten, Deane Morrison, Julia Prinselaar, Javier Serna, Rhonda Silence, Emily M. Stone, Maren Webb

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Young musher to compete in Junior Beargrease

ELY—There is no doubt about it, 14-yearold Jasper Johnston is a busy teenager. As a freshman at Ely Memorial High School, he is on the cross country team and the cross country skiing team, while also training for his third Junior Beargrease. The races take place the weekend of January 28-31.

Last year, Johnston’s training paid off when he came in first place in the junior race. Although it is not a requirement to be fit to dog sled, Johnston says it does help.

“Especially with racing. You can help the dogs a lot by running up the hills,” Johnston said.

The 68-mile, Junior Beargrease race takes place within the mid-distance race, using the same route and rules and occurs the same weekend as the full John Beargrease Sled Dog Marathon. For Johnston, competing in the junior race allows him to combine his passions of being an athlete and working with animals. When he was in elementary school, he began reading books about dog sledding and had the opportunity to go on a few rides. By the time Johnston was in sixth grade, he decided to email a few different mushers. Some responded, some didn’t.

Peter McClelland, owner of White Wilderness Sled Dog Adventures in Ely, was one of the mushers who responded with an invitation to come train with his dogs. So in the fall of his seventh grade year, Johnston began training with McClelland’s dogs and still uses his dogs today. Over the years, McClelland and the guides at Wilderness Sled Dog Adventures have been a big help in teaching Johnston all about dog sledding and building relationships with working dogs.

“If you look through human history, our relationship with working animals has gotten us to modern times. That is getting

lost,” McClellend explained.

He added that while pets are great, there is a different kind of relationship that is developed with working animals.

“I think that is why it is really important that kids work with animals. Not only to preserve the history of how things used to be, but we learn so much more about ourselves doing these things, too.”

The nine-time John Beargrease Sled Dog Marathon veteran, has nearly 100 dogs that he works with year-round. A typical day with his dogs begins in the morning with breakfast, cleaning the kennel, and then between him and four others, the training.

For Johnston, in order to keep building a relationship with the dogs, he has had to put in extra effort to ensure he has enough time and miles with them. The dogs, while trained year round with McClelland, need to get to know Johnston, too. He typically gets to see them a few times in the fall and about six or more times in the winter before the race.

And as for the race itself, Johnston says that his favorite part last year wasn’t just the fact that he won.

“Almost more so than winning, just getting to be a part of the Beargrease. Running at night, going down the trails, just me and my dogs. And, going down trails we’d never been on before was just really, really cool,” he said.

This year, he hopes to win again, but also compare his time to mid-distance racers, with the goal of one day competing in the full marathon.

To follow along with the John Beargrease Sled Dog races, visit beargrease.com.

THUNDER BAY—Canada’s only surviving immigrant Scandinavian Library and Reading Room has re-opened in a cozy corner of the Viking Lounge at Scandinavian Home Restaurant (“Scandi”), thanks to the Swedish Norrskenet Society of Thunder Bay and the restaurant’s manager/operator Shelley Simon.

The history of the immigrant library goes back to 1923, when a group of five men founded the Scandinavian Home Society in Port Arthur (now part of Thunder Bay) as a support group for immigrants who spoke the Scandinavian language. The society rented premises at 218 Bay Street for a meeting room and activity centre, and organized a library with space to read newspapers to find up-to-date information about jobs.

“Everyone wanted a job and the newspapers played an important part in finding one,” said historian-author Elinor Barr, who has been instrumental in the cataloguing, maintaining and re-launching of the library.

In 1926, the society built the Scandinavian Home Restaurant on Algoma Street and included a library and reading room upstairs for members. One of the society’s founders, carpenter Ture Ogren (Green) from Sweden, handcrafted the three-section glass-door cabinet, which today holds the archival collection of vintage books dating back to 1874.

As the number of library books grew and the bookcase became too full, two other Swedes, Ingemar Andersson and Harry Brodin, built a second bookcase for the library.

Currently, there are more than 521 books and 511 titles on the shelves of the two bookcases. In 1992 and 2017, the

books were catalogued for easy reference by Swedish Norrskenet Society members Barr, Linda Hutchinson, Signe Ranta and Pauline St. Denis.

The library’s collection includes an eclectic mix of books about the Nordic countries, Scandinavia, the Vikings, traditional needlework and crafts, art, historic calendars, geography, history, culture and much more. There is also a growing number of English-language books by Nordic authors, as well as copies of magazines like the Swedish Press, The Finnish American Reporter and Swedish American Genealogist

“Anybody can come into the Viking Lounge and read these English-language books and magazines about the Nordic countries—Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden,” said Barr, adding that Estonia has now also been added. “We are looking for donations of books, not only about these countries but also translated novels by Nordic authors, many of which are popular in Canada. For example, The Girl with the Dragon Tatto o, A Man Called Ove, and The 100-Year-Old Man Who Climbed Out the Window and Disappeared.”

Barr is the author of the highly-acclaimed Swedes in Canada: The Invisible Immigrants (University of Toronto, 2016), The Scandinavian Home Society 19231993: A Place to Meet, A Place to Eat (1990) and numerous books.

Donations can be brought to the Scandinavian Home Restaurant. For more information, contact Elinor Barr at (807) 344-8355 or email: pebarr@tbaytel.net —Elle Andra-Warner

The library includes Nordic publications in English, like the Swedish Press, FinnishAmericanReporter and SwedishAmericanGenealogist.

We’re all time travelers

THUNDER BAY—The Star of Bethlehem has been the subject of both awe and conjecture for the last two millenia, since it was mentioned in the Christian Gospel of St. Matthew concerning the birth of Jesus of Nazareth in Palestine. In the Gospel, the star appeared as a beacon to guide three Asian astrologers to the birthplace of Jesus, whom they recognized as the foretold Messiah.

Fast forward to December, 2017 CE (AD) across the world to Thunder Bay: Kris Fedick, astronomer of the David Thompson Astronomical Observatory at the Fort William Historical Park, leads a presentation on the phenomenon of the Star. In the warmth of the presentation building on a chilly December night, some 60 people take in an interactive visual tour of the Star phenomenon. He is careful to speak about the celestial object both from a theological point of view and a scientific, astronomical point of view. And there is much to think about in both.

What exactly was the Star? Fedick explains several theories from an astronomical point of view: a supernova, or the immense explosion of a dying star; a conjunction of planets that resembles a star; a meteorite; or a comet. His talk shows both the pros and cons of each theory.

“I’m aiming for a neutral presentation,” he explains. “I want people to make up their own minds on the significance of the Star.”

For understandable reasons, the observatory (DTAO) chooses the Star of Bethlehem as its monthly theme in December. Certainly, Fedick’s presentation captures and holds the audience’s interest.

Were it not for a cloudy, snowy night, however, the DTAO’s pride and joy, a Corrected Dall-Kirkham telescope, would be in use in the domed observatory housing a few metres away from the presentation room.

“Did the clouds open up yet?” asks astronomer David Shepherd of “Dr. McLaughlin” (Jon Reid), astronomer and historical interpreter at the Fort. “We got some clear sky earlier.”

“Nope,” the good Doctor shakes his head.

Undaunted, Shepherd leads a group to see the telescope. Even in the frosty ambience of the dome, his enthusiasm, like that of all the astronomers in the observatory, is tangible.

“This is one of the largest telescopes in central Canada.” he says to the people grouped within the dome. “Its main mirror is about 20 inches across. If we had a clear night, I could show you the Horsehead Nebula, Betelgeuse and lots else.”

Back in the warm presentation room, Fedick shows visitors the observatory’s meteorite collection. He pulls some out, explaining their origins, and hands them around. The specimens are surprisingly heavy for their size.

“They’re mostly iron,” he explains. “Every other element within them pretty much burned away in their entry into the atmosphere.”

The Star presentation completed, Fedick invites those present to sit by the 24foot propane heater on the patio outside. There, he will lead a discussion of what their visitors have seen, while Shepherd takes groups over to see the telescope.

This is both a typical Star Walk, and a bit different from the others.

“We try to go with the flow according to what happens on a given night, during a given season,” says Anthony Marrelli, astronomer and coordinator of the Historical Park’s educational programs. “Every month or so, we change the theme of our presentations, and we gear these according to our audience.”

The David Thompson Astronomical Observatory at Fort William Historical Park offers programs for all ages. | PETER FERGUS-MOORE

Programs from a grade one level to a grade 12 curriculum level gives a sense of the range of DTAO activities. In summer and early fall, classes of older students may stay overnight for an astronomical and historical experience at the Park, with a guided tour of the night sky (weather permitting, of course). The observatory hosts wedding parties, family campouts and more.

But visitors at any time may use the telescopes, including one that permits direct viewing of the sun, and take in 3D maps of the universe. In keeping with the Park’s respectful relationship with local Anishnabe culture, the DTAO will be offering the Night Sky Story Telling experience beginning in February.

“We have Indigenous story tellers coming in and explaining the Anishnabe per-

spective of the night sky,” Marrelli says. “Their constellations are very similar to the Greco-Roman ones we’re familiar with.”

There is much to see and experience at the DATO, but it’s good to keep one thing in mind, Shepherd advises: the light from faraway stars and planets come great distances to be seen.

“We’re all time travelers here,” he says. “The light we’re seeing takes years, centu -

ries, millenia to get here. Betelgeuse, we think, could go supernova at any point— the conditions are right. But that star is over 600 light-years away. If we see it go supernova now, we’re seeing something that happened actually 600 years ago.”

For more information on the David Thompson Astronomical Observatory, visit: fwhp.ca.—Peter Fergus-Moore

Stars of the North youth music lesson program

GRAND MARAIS—The Grand Marais Music Collaborative (GMMC) is looking for a few students and instructors to participate in a youth music lesson program beginning in January.

The Collaborative, through a variety of fund-raising efforts and generous local grants, has created and funded the Stars of the North Youth Music Lesson Program. The lessons will be taught by talented area instructors and will benefit youth ages 12 and up. All lessons will take place after school in the band room at the high school. All instructors will be screened and available for interviews to find the best match for each student based on skill levels, instrument of choice, and other areas of compatibility. A 10-week course of lessons is $400. For students needing

financial assistance, there is a pool of grant funds available for scholarships. Students will need to commit to a 10-lesson program and are encouraged to continue playing after the program, either in a solo setting or in groups. Instructors are currently available for jazz guitar, electric guitar, acoustic guitar, bass, drums, keyboards, ukulele, upright bass, voice, flute and other instruments.

Spaces and scholarships are limited, so apply before January 15 on the GMMC website (thegmmc.org) to be considered for the program. Both instructors and students must print and fill out the application and mail it to the GMMC at PO Box 123. For more information, call lesson coordinator Karina Roth at (218) 387-1876.

David Shepherd shows off one of the largest telescopes in central Canada.
| PETER FERGUS-MOORE

don’t mix, because the altered habitat attracts more southerly ungulates such as moose and whitetail deer, which in turn allows wolves to thrive. Woodland caribou are more susceptible to wolf predation than either moose or deer. They are also highly susceptible to the brain worm transmitted by white-tailed deer.

The loss of caribou from the Lake Superior region has been ongoing for more than a century. Scattered bands hung on in northern Minnesota until the 1940s. In the early 1980s, up to a dozen caribou wintered near the North Shore community of Hovland, then disappeared. On Isle Royale, native caribou were extirpated in the 1920s. Local anecdotes and genetic research suggests moose were introduced to the island as a replacement species. When moose began to overpopulate the island, a mostly unsuccessful introduction of wolves was attempted to control their numbers. Wolves are thought to have crossed on the ice to the island a few years later.

The changing wildlife dynamics of three North Shore island groups should offer opportunity in the face of impending disaster, provided we choose to make the most of it. On Isle Royale, generations of inbreeding have caused the island’s wolf

population to collapse. The most recent reports indicate one wolf is left on the island. The nearly inevitable outcome is the moose herd, lacking predation, will overpopulate, destroy its food source and then crash due to mass starvation. The solution presently under consideration is to stock

blessing in disguise, providing an opportunity to restore a native species: the woodland caribou. The diets of moose and caribou differ. Moose are browsers, while caribou exist on lichens and moss. Even if moose over-browse Isle Royale, caribou would still have food and habitat.

wolves on the island, which is an artificial manipulation of a wilderness area. Ontario has offered to provide wolves for the stocking effort from the Michipicoten Island population, according to the Duluth News-Tribune, but the decision process on the U.S. side can’t move fast enough to save that island’s rapidly dwindling caribou from wolf predation.

In the press, the loss of Isle Royale’s wolves is largely portrayed as a tragedy, because the extirpation of wolves will bring to an end a famed, long-running, predator-prey study. But what if we chose to see the loss of the island’s wolves as a

To the best of our knowledge, caribou long existed on the island prior to being hunted out and replaced with moose. Given the cold, year-round temperatures of Lake Superior and the chilling effect they have on the island’s climate, it is possible caribou could be restored to Isle Royale even in the face of climate change. If successful, these animals would become the only resident caribou population in the Lower 48. I haven’t seen anything to indicate such a strategy has been contemplated or presented to the public. Instead, we’ve seen an increasingly political debate about whether wolves should be stocked on Isle Royale, which is a national park

DULUTH—Members of the popular North Shore Federal Credit Union will soon have a new location in which to do business— Duluth. Work will soon begin on new offices in the Endi Building on the corner of 21st Ave. E and London Rd. The new Duluth branch is expected to open in June.

“The time is right,” NSFCU president Mark Summers says of the project. “There has long been member interest in opening a Duluth office.”

In recent years, the credit union, which is headquartered in Silver Bay, has expanded beyond long-standing branch offices in Grand Marais and Lutsen. A Grand Portage branch opened about four years ago, followed by a Two Harbors branch about two years ago. Summers said the success of the Two Harbors branch, which is almost two years ahead of its financial projections, helped drive the decision to open a Duluth location.

Summers said the credit union already has nearly 500 members in Duluth. Many former North Shore residents who are credit union members end up living in Duluth for education and employment. While they have been able to electronically access credit union services, they will now have a physical location to conduct their business. People residing in Silver Bay and Grand Marais have provided positive feedback about the Duluth expansion, too.

Because it will occupy a leased space, the Duluth branch will not offer drive-up services. All other credit union services will be available. The offices will be on the first floor of the Endi Building, near the Caribou Coffee.

“We’re excited about this project,” Summers said. “We think it is going to be good.”—Shawn Perich

and federally designated wilderness area. Lake Superior is often described as pristine, which not only means its water is clean and clear, but that all or nearly all of its original biota is intact. During the past 50 years, we have witnessed popular and successful efforts to preserve and restore Lake Superior’s native species; from the lake trout, brook trout and lake sturgeon swimming in its waters to the white pine and white cedar growing along its shores. This begs the question: Why aren’t we doing everything possible to preserve and restore the crown jewel of Lake Superior’s native species, the woodland caribou?

I have never seen a Lake Superior caribou. Once or twice, on a lonely sand beach in view of the Slate Islands, I’ve happened upon blurred tracks that seemed a little small for moose. More often, I’ve been in places where you can still feel the echo of their passing; rocky outcrops carpeted with lichens and caribou moss. In those places is a tangible wildness, as though the caribou just walked away. If woodland caribou are extirpated from the North Shore, they’ll take that wildness with them. And Lake Superior will be pristine no more.—Shawn Perich

Good Times Await

North of the

Border

Seeking a Hip Scene?

Head for Thunder Bay’s Waterfront District and the nearby Algoma & Bay Neighborhood. You’ll find it all: live music, great food, funky galleries, unique shops, the OLG Casino, Marina Park and more.

This ain’t your daddy’s Thunder Bay • thewaterfrontdistrict.ca (Remember, Thunder Bay is on Eastern Time —1 hour ahead of MN time.)

Derelicte 10 will be held at Black Pirates Club on Saturday, Jan. 27. | DEFINITELY SUPERIOR

The exhibit On the Trail, by Denise Smith, continues until Friday, Jan. 5 at the Thunder Bay Art Gallery. Currently on display at the gallery is Converging Lines: Recent Art from the Northwest , featuring the work of regional Indigenous artists Kristy Cameron, Elliot Doxtater-Wynn, Shaun Hedican and Cree Stevens. The exhibit will remain on display until Sunday, Feb. 25. theag.ca

The Zorya Ukrainian Dance Association presents Malanka, New Year’s Eve Ukrainian style. Enjoy a delicious meal prepared by the Slovak Legion before dancing the night away to Danny Johnson and 21 Gun Fun. The evening will also feature a high energy performance by the Zorya Ukrainian Dancers. The event is held Jan. 13 from 6 p.m. to 1 a.m. at the Slovak Legion and is open to the public; you don’t need to be Ukrainian to join in the celebration. For tickets and further information, call (807) 577-2100.

On Jan. 14, Red Lion Smokehouse will host the annual Christmas Comes to Those Who Wait party, featuring music, dancing, food and drinks. The party will be held from 9 p.m.-2 a.m. Be sure to dress to impress. There is a $5 cover charge; must be 19 years or older to attend. The event is a fundraiser for CMHA Thunder Bay. Then, on Monday, Jan. 29, Chef John and the Red Lion Smokehouse kitchen invades Tomlin for the night with Chef Swap Chef Steve returns the favor on Monday, Feb. 26. Other Red Lion events include an Arts and Crafts Beer Night on Jan. 17, Game Night on Jan. 24, Beer and Yoga on Jan. 27, and Quiz Night on Jan. 31.

Paramount Live presents Legally Blonde the Musical JR , held Jan. 18-20 at Paramount Theatre. Legally Blonde JR follows the transformation of Elle Woods as she tackles stereotypes, snobbery and scandal in pursuit of her dreams; attending law school at Harvard. This kid-friendly musical, directed by Olivia McInnis and Carly Martin, will take place at 7:30 p.m. each night. Tickets are $15 for adults and

$12 for children and students. facebook. com/plivetbay

An all new Yuk Yuk’s Stand Up Comedy show will be at the Thunder Bay Community Auditorium on Saturday, Jan. 27. The show will begin at 7:30 p.m. Tickets can be purchased online, in person or by calling the auditorium box office. Then, don’t miss the Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour ; a compilation of high-energy outdoor films and documentaries with environmental messages. The event will be held at 7 p.m. on Sunday, Jan. 28. Other upcoming shows include Brett Kissel on Friday, Feb. 2 and the Thunder Bay Symphony Orchestra on Feb. 3. tbca.com

Wearable art, fashion, dance, music,

DJ’s, and performance collide with runway models and contemporary design elements, to create a fashion odyssey unlike anything you may have seen before on the catwalk, known as Derelicte 10. Held on Jan. 27 at Black Pirates Pub, this year’s show will include 35 acts, 15 wearable art pieces, 9 local fashion houses, 7 specialty performance acts, 4 live bands and DJs, video mapping projections and over 100 artists and models. There will be a raffle and prizes for best D.I.Y. fashion costumes, as well as food and refreshments by Sushi Bowl and Sweet Escape Cake Café and Bakery. The party will be held from 8 p.m.-2 a.m. and costs $15. Must be 19 years or older to attend. definitelysuperior.com

Human Migrations

We all come from somewhere. One constant in humanity is our propensity to move distances great or small and adapt to new environments. In the Northern Wilds, those migrations have been occurring since the last Ice Age, when early hunters crossed this landscape rich in game and fish, sometimes settling in a particularly good place, sometimes moving on. Those migrations have continued across the span of time, first with native peoples and then accelerating over the last 150 years with immigrants from Europe and other parts of the world.

The migration continues. We asked our writers to find people who have chosen to migrate to the Northern Wilds. Their stories follow. We welcome them to our North Shore communities.

Living in Duluth, Luis Pessoa has embraced the cold and has taken up snowboarding at Spirit Mountain. | LUIS PESSOA

From Surfboards to Snowboards, Home is Where You Make it

As a junior in college studying graphic design in Brazil, a visit to San Diego, CA meant surfing and an opportunity to learn English in the States. Luis Pessoa never imagined that he would stay in the U.S. to live.

When Pessoa first came to the United States from Rio De Janeiro in 2006, it was supposed to be temporary. He, along with a few friends from Rio, moved to San Diego, CA, with the intention of only staying for about six months.

Fast forward to now, Pessoa is living in Duluth and embraces the cool autumns, long winters, crisp springs and short summers. The question remains; why move to such a “cool” city?

It was love.

While visiting San Diego, he fell in love with the city. He decided to finish his college education at San Diego State University but, because his credits wouldn’t transfer, had to start over as a freshman. It was there, that he met the love of his life, Jennifer.

San Diego treated them well; they got married and had their first child there. But, as a midwestern girl at heart, his new wife wanted to move closer to home. So, in 2012, they packed up their lives and moved to the Minneapolis area and, not long after that in 2013, made their way to Jennifer’s hometown of Duluth.

Coming from Rio with a population of more than 6.3 million to a city like Duluth, one would think that there would be some level of culture shock. But, not for Pessoa. Although Duluth is very different than Rio, he says that his ability to adapt well to change made the transition much easier. The biggest challenge he faced, initially, was learning the English language.

“I was shy at first about speaking. I had a few lessons back in Brazil, but never really took it serious before,” Pessoa said.

With just a slight Portuguese accent, he is now confident with his English and he and his family have settled into their life in Duluth quite well. He has worked at ARI for nearly four years, and his wife is a local elementary school teacher. This November, they welcomed their third baby boy.

A new country, new family, new city, new job; his lifestyle continues to adapt to his surroundings. For instance, since living in Minnesota, he learned to be an avid outdoorsmen. Hunting was something he had never experienced before moving to Minnesota. His father-in-law first introduced Pessoa to shooting sports by teaching him how to shoot clay pigeons at his game farm. From there, he took up hunting upland birds and then, as his passion for hunting grew, he began hunting turkeys and whitetail deer, too.

He also learned how to stay active with all this area has to offer during the winter months. He’s found, as most Minnesotans do, that in order to enjoy winter, you have to embrace it. When it is winter in Duluth, it is summer in Rio. So to continue his surf and boarding lifestyle, Pessoa naturally decided to learn how to snowboard. He is now a season pass holder at Spirit Mountain and, for the first time, his older sons who are four and sixyears-old will join him on the slopes as well.

At this point, with his growing family, he doesn’t get back to Brazil very often. Once a year at most. He does miss Brazil, but has adapted so well to living here that he would miss it.

“There is never going to be a perfect place for me any more. I miss Rio and I miss San Diego. And if I were to ever leave Duluth, I would miss it too.”

It just goes to show that if you can fall in love with life where you are at in the present moment, you will always be home.

“They Still Think I’m Crazy”

Ahbi Devireddy provides his easy laugh when asked about living in Duluth compared to where he grew up. “I can’t imagine going back to that,” he says.

The “that” is Hyderbad, India, a capital city in the south central part of the country with a metropolitan population of nearly 8 million people.

That’s a far cry from walking the woods of northern Minnesota in search of grouse and deer.

“I flew in blind,” Devireddy said of arriving at the University of Minnesota-Duluth as a teenager in 2007.

He chose UMD because he had an aunt and uncle who taught there. He wasn’t sure of what he wanted to study and thought Duluth would just be a temporary stop.

He hated the weather and the lack of big city amenities. For the first few years, he said, he rarely went outside in the winter, taking advantage of the linked buildings at UMD.

Around graduation, in information technology, he found himself comfortable here. He loves winters; thinks they go by too quickly for skating and skiing. He discovered the value of a Carhartt jacket and he found guns.

“I had to expand my interests and horizons,” he said.

He started going to shooting ranges and gravel pits with UMD friends. Despite never holding a gun in India, he liked shooting. And he eventually went hunting, first with small game and then “graduating to deer.”

Then his now-wife, Megan, got him an archery bow and his outdoor activity increased.

Part of crowded India remains with him. He doesn’t like camping. He still gets jittery being out alone. But he’s given it a whirl, spending a few “miserable” nights winter camping in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness and enduring deer camp.

He’s found community in church and friends, he said. “Duluth offers a lifestyle choice,” he said. “I can’t think

of any other place I’d be.”

His forays into the wild have been slowed by demands from a growing family. Jacquelyn is two and Madison is two months old. He’d like to get into fishing and get his girls involved.

Friends and family back home still wonder why he moved to an “icy desert” and not a better known American landscape like California or the larger cities. When people ask where the heck he lives, he now says “next to Canada.”

His parents have visited, in the summer only, and they have done the rounds with trips up the North Shore and to the attractions in Duluth.

“They still think I’m crazy,” he said.

They recognize the draw, he said, the beauty of northern Minnesota. But it’s about the embracing of the region and seeing, sensing and touching it while hunting or gliding on the snow, he said. It keeps him grounded in a place he can’t see leaving.

“I’m driven by other things than beauty and nature,” he said. “This is home.”

A Move to a Simple Life

Izabela Okruszek Sheehan went looking for adventure in a small town in the United States—and found a home on Minnesota’s North Shore.

Over a warm cup of hot chocolate at Java Moose, Izabela explains how she came to Grand Marais. “It’s complicated,” she says with a smile.

As a high school student, she traveled around Europe with her family. People in her hometown of Lodz, Poland didn’t plan trips to the U.S. Why, when there were so many historic and scenic places to visit much closer?

But, Izabela says, for many young people in Europe, the idea of visiting the U.S. is “awesome,” something they can only imagine.

Then her brother did the unimaginable. He applied to go work as a student in the U.S. He traveled to America to live and work at Wisconsin Dells. While there, he explored the region and came back with stories of his adventure. He encouraged Izabela to do the same.

She did. Taking a break from her college studies, she applied to an international student-worker program, paying a $2,000 fee to find a job in the U.S. Part of the process was attending a job fair of sorts, with representatives of the U.S. tourism industry. She met with two agencies, one representing Busch Gardens and the other, Caribou Highlands Lodge in Lutsen.

The recruiter for Caribou Highlands Lodge was honest, says Izabela. They said Lutsen was a tiny town far from a major city with no public transportation. She weighed her options—Busch Gardens was hiring a thousand people; Caribou Highlands, six. Coming from Lodz, a city of 850,000 people, the idea of a tiny northwoods town appealed to Izabela. She signed on to come to northeastern Minnesota and in 2002 found herself on the North Shore.

Student-worker Visas allow a four month visit— three for working and one for travel. So she worked at

the resort in Lutsen for three months and then headed east, visiting Chicago, Pittsburgh, Washington D.C. and New York before returning to Lodz.

The first stay wasn’t long enough. Izabela returned the next summer to work at Caribou Highlands again. After working for three months, she traveled the West Coast for a month, renting a car with friends and visiting San Francisco, San Diego, Death Valley and the Grand Canyon.

“I had worked hard,” she recalls. “I wasn’t sure I was coming back, so I wanted to see it all.”

However, Izabela had grown fond of Nick Sheehan of Grand Marais. She met him on her first summer visit, but they hadn’t dated. On her second stint on the North Shore, they began dating.

She returned to Poland to finish her studies at Wyzsza Szkola Studiow Migdzynavodowych, the School of International Studies, earning her Master’s degree in international affairs. And when an opportunity arose to accept an internship at Caribou Highlands with an 18-month visa, Izabela took it.

Halfway through that internship, she and Nick were married, on June 11, 2005. That led to another adventure on her move to Minnesota. They had to appear before an immigration judge to apply for a new visa for Izabela. She said when they arrived for the hearing, there were about 20 other couples, accompanied by lawyers.

“We looked at each other and asked, ‘Do we need a lawyer too?’”

It turns out they did not. They made it through the interview bringing the requested wedding pictures and shared bills and answered questions appropriately. Izabela had to take a test about the history and culture of the U.S. and when the process was all done, she was a dual citizen of Poland and the U.S.

Izabela has settled in to North Shore life. One thing she misses is the food of Poland, but she visits nearly every year to taste her favorites. Nick has also made five trips; their nine-year-old daughter Sofia has traveled there 10 times already, the first time as an infant.

And Izabela keeps in touch with family there through social media, Skyping with her two sisters and parents a couple of times a week.

Izabela enjoys her day-to-day life in Grand Marais, with its short drive or brief walk to everything you need. She said there is no downhill skiing, snowmobiling, four-wheeling or canoeing in Poland—she enjoys all those things now. The family enjoyed camping for the first time this summer.

“I always thought I was a big city person,” says Izabela, “but I’m not. Because I spent 20 years in a big city, I appreciate it here. It is simple.”

“Simple is good,” she adds with a smile.

Izabela returns to Poland nearly every year and keeps in touch with her family via social media. | RHONDA SILENCE
Originally from Hyderbad, India, Ahbi Devireddy now resides in Duluth.
| MICHAEL CREGER

Mahmoud is cold.

“It’s really cold here,” he says. “Completely different from what I am used to.”

Mahmoud (pronounced Mock-mood) is now readjusting to winter in Canada, from having lived in Gaza, Palestine, for more than half his life.

Though Canadian-born, Mahmoud is Palestinian, having spent much of his childhood visiting back and forth from Canada to Gaza (his father is also Canadian-born). He lived with his extended family in a neighbourhood where everyone is related to everyone else. Arabic culture is family-grounded, and Mahmoud feels keenly the loneliness of being away from his extended family here in Thunder Bay. Naturally, he has very good reasons for enduring this separation.

“I saw many people die in front of me in Gaza,” he says. “That’s why I want to become a doctor. I am taking sciences now at Lakehead University.”

In Gaza, Mahmoud volunteered a considerable amount of time at the local hospital. This arose from a desire to help people, and from a dearth of paid jobs in the area owing to the economic and military stranglehold imposed on the region by the state of Israel.

“Just about everybody volunteers at something,” he says. “I would feed people, give them water, a push in a wheelchair if they needed it. I lost a lot of friends and family: many people like me have lost the same. We are closer together because of that.”

The blockade that has wrecked the Gazan economy has also placed a heavy burden on the lives of ordinary people, like Mahmoud’s family.

“We would get maybe four hours of electricity a day,” he remembers. “They truck water in—not very good water—five times a week for cleaning and drinking. The U.N. gives out food coupons for basics, like sugar and rice. There’s not much food.”

In addition, medical supplies are all but absent in Gaza.

“You have to go to Egypt to get them,” Mahmoud says.

In this difficult environment, Mahmoud, like his compatriots, did the best they could to create a normal life if at all possible.

a bomb kicks up. But I ran the whole way back to her school to see if my sister was all right.”

Fortunately, she was.

“She was being hugged by the teachers, crying,” he says. “I was relieved.”

All schools in Gaza were shut down for the duration of the Israeli invasion, which ended in 2009.

“With no school, I was scared, depressed a lot,” he remembers. “I wasn’t used to it (being home all the time).”

Mahmoud made the difficult decision in his late teens to leave Gaza for an extended period, to get his university education. Having Canadian citizenship made the choice of countries relatively easy. Leaving Gaza at all was not.

“It’s pretty hard to leave Palestine,” Mahmoud says. “It can take nine months from when you first apply.”

His travel from Gaza reads something like a movie script.

“You go through Egypt, but the border is open only four or five times a year,” he explains. Although he had made several trips to Canada and back during his younger years, travelling out of Gaza had become increasingly difficult. Once contacted by the Canadian embassy on completion of his documentation, Mahmoud was picked up to be driven into Egypt, a trip perilous in itself.

“We drove in a white car to the border,” he remembers. “It’s pretty risky. Anything can get bombed there.”

Like many a migrant before him, Mahmoud’s next challenge was to learn the language. He had some English from having volunteered at the American Corner Hospital in Gaza, but he was well aware that he must upgrade his language skills for university, especially for his chosen field of medicine.

“I needed to learn some serious English,” he says.

On arrival in Hamilton in 2016, he made it a point to volunteer at Hamilton General Hospital in part to practice his spoken English. While there, he took some university courses. Though he is Muslim, Mahmoud did not make much contact with the local Muslim community in Hamilton.

“We drove in a white car to the border... It’s pretty risky. Anything can get bombed there.”

“Me and our neighbours played soccer, volleyball. Sometimes we would go swim at the beach,” he says.

Unfortunately, with Gazan infrastructure drastically compromised, even ordinary activities like a swim at the Mediterranean beach is perilous: sewage treatment in Gaza has all but shut down, and the beaches have been described as very dangerous owing to raw sewage in the water.

Another aspect of living under military blockade is the ever-present worry about Israeli bombing raids. Mahmoud vividly remembers the day in 2008, when, as a young teenager during the Gaza War (known as Operation Cast Lead by the Israeli military), he escorted his eight-year-old sister to primary school.

“I dropped her off and went to my school, about a kilometre away,” he remembers. “Then I saw this plane, super close. You never know where a bomb is going to fall, and I got scared for my sister. People around me were yelling, ‘Get on the floor!’ because of all the stuff that

“I wanted to spend time around people who spoke English,” he explains. “I am in contact with the Muslim community here, though.” Mahmoud came to Thunder Bay, having heard of Lakehead University’s quality education, in the summer. While he is working hard, making friends and passing his courses, he has yet another concern.

“At some point, I want to go back to Gaza,” he says. “If I become a doctor, I will practice here in Canada, but I will go back to Palestine in the summer and work for free there.”

However, owing to the caprice of the Israeli state apparatus at the border, Mahmoud is well aware that he could be refused entry, for short periods, or even forever. Nonetheless, he is determined to make a go of his life here and to contribute when he can, both in Canada and back in Gaza.

Editor’s Note: Due to his situation, Mahmoud does not want to be readily identified in this article: Mahmoud is a pseudonym.

Now living in Canada, Mahmoud hopes to return to Gaza, Palestine someday and work as a doctor. | PETER FERGUS-MOORE

Photo Contest

REGIONAL ICONS

2017

WINNERS!

PEOPLE & PETS

1st Place: Two Harbors Train Depot by Larry Paulson. A night-time shot of the historic Two Harbors train depot.
1st Place: She spots the fish, I catch them by Britt Trovall. A picture I took of my dog, Scout, while out fishing Lake Superior one calm morning.
2nd Place: Grand Marais Harbor Lighthouse by Bob Berlute. Waves crashing over Grand Marais harbor lighthouse.
3rd Place: Three Tugboats in the Harbor by Ken Greshowak. Tugboats wait for work in the Duluth harbor.
2nd Place: Meeting Norris by David Brislance. Mary and grandson meet our friend Norris the red-breasted nuthatch, a resident of the Superior National Forest.
3rd Place: Some More S’more? by Brenda Hadrich. Visiting Grandpa and Grandma at the lake.

New Year, New Exhibits

For many people, a new year means a fresh start. We make resolutions, opting to eat healthier or workout more. But instead of the usual resolutions, how about trying a new outdoor activity or taking an art class? With the arrival of the new year comes a new set of gallery exhibits, located throughout the Northern Wilds. Take the time to venture to the galleries and you may just be inspired to pick up a paintbrush.

Rosemary Guttormsson will showcase her watercolor art at Lakeside Gallery in Duluth Jan. 3-31, featuring pieces like “Birch Bear.” | ROSEMARY GUTTORMSSON
The Winter Plein Air exhibit will be on display at the Johnson Heritage Post, Jan. 26-28. Shown here is “Inside” by Adam Swanson. | ADAM SWANSON
“Fur Trade Game” by Kristy Cameron is part of the Thunder Bay Art Gallery exhibit, ConvergingLines:RecentArtfromthe Northwest, on display now until Feb. 25. | KRISTY CAMERON
Stained glass mosaic artist Sherri Kruger is the featured artist for January at the Tettegouche Visitors Center in Silver Bay. A reception will be held from 7-8:30 p.m., Jan. 5. | SHERRI KRUGER
This piece, titled Mola, by artist unknown, is part of the Tweed Museum of Art exhibit Treasures from Home: AnAnthologyofGifts from Collectors, opening on Jan. 23. | TWEED MUSEUM OF ART
Acrobat with White Face, 1933, by Walt Kuhn, is part of the Modern(ism) exhibit at the Tweed Museum of Art in Duluth. This watercolor on paper is on display now until March 18. | WALT KUHN

PURELY SCANDINAVIAN Resonant Folk Song in Grand Marais

Listening to live Swedish folk a cappella no longer involves a plane ticket across the pond thanks to the Grand Marais-based female group SVEA.

Rose Arrowsmith DeCoux, a long-time Grand Marais resident and small business owner, was the driving force behind the group’s formation. During a planning meeting for the town’s 2017 Hygge Festival, a community leader mused that a Swedish folk singing group would fit well at any of the weekend’s events. The February celebration focuses on being cozy during the winter months.

“Probably immediately thereafter I said, ‘I could pull this together,’” said DeCoux. “I sent out an email to all the ladies I thought it would be fun to sing with or that have some Scandinavian connection.”

She received positive response from three women: Yvonne Mills, Erika Ternes and Erin Swenson-Klatt. With only six weeks to prepare for their first performance at the Drury Lane Bookstore, the ladies began conquering the challenge of not only learning the music, but also how to pronounce the foreign words. DeCoux and Swenson-Klatt, both fluent in Swedish, began teaching the others the language through song.

“Some of the first songs we learned as a group I had known before,” said DeCoux. “I was very impressed because Erika and Yvonne have better pronunciation than many who are trying to learn the language. They don’t pronounce things like Americans typically would; maybe because they learned it in song.”

As DeCoux taught the group by ear, Ternes (“a musical genius,” as described by DeCoux) wrote up sheet music. Because the first performance took place at a bookstore, the group also incorporated some poetry and readings from Scandinavian authors, as well as readable poetic English versions of the songs.

The sound, tone, and cadence of the music resonates with many Northland residents that have a Scandinavian background.

“Many people seem very struck by how much they connect with the music,” explains DeCoux. “Swedish music often has a melancholy feel that people can relate to because of the similar weather and darkness for much of the year.”

With no instruments to create unique sounds present in the traditional music, the group must rely solely on their respective voices. The Swedish nyckelharpa, a keyed fiddle, has a mix of melody strings, a drone string, and resonance strings. SVEA and other traditional folk groups are trying to recreate this almost

dissonant chord sound in songs such as Limu, Limu, Lima.

“I found the song on the internet as it was performed by a Swedish female group named Kraja. The song’s translation is very simple: ‘limu, limu, lima, see the sunlight streaming over the mountains high and the valleys wide; will walk in the forest in the evenings,’” said DeCoux.

The name of the group is a play on ancient Swedish terminology.

“In Swedish the word for Sweden is Sverige, which is derived from ‘svea rike’ (rike meaning kingdom or country or land), so it’s like the land of svea. And I thought SVEA was a cool name,” explains DeCoux.

The group has hit its stride with performances at establishments like the Grand Marais Art Colony, Voyageur Brewing Company, and the Swedish folk music festival in Nisswa, Minnesota. The preparation mostly takes place around the dining room table in DeCoux’s home.

The coming year will bring changes for the group, including a loss of one of their members to a move out of the county. The women will continue to travel to do house concerts and may potentially record a CD to sell.

Breana’s PICK OF THE MONTH

Lisa Stauffer competes in many Plein Air competitions each year, including the Winter Plein Air event at Menogyn, where she created this pastel watercolor piece, “Morning Has Broken.” Stauffer teaches pastel classes at the Grand Marais Art Colony. To see more of her artwork, visit: lisastauffer.com.

Permanent Exhibit

On the Line: A Military History of Cook County Cook County Historical Society, Grand Marais, cookcountyhistory.org

thru Jan. 5

BBAC Members Exhibition Baggage Building Arts Centre, Thunder Bay, facebook.com/ baggagebuildingarts

thru Jan. 7

On the Trail: Denise Smith Thunder Bay Art Gallery, theag.ca

thru Jan. 13

Manifestation: Juried Exhibition

Definitely Superior, Thunder Bay, definitelysuperior.com

Façade: Piotr Skowronski

Definitely Superior, Thunder Bay, definitelysuperior.com

thru Jan. 14

Picks Out of Context: Tweed Museum Staff Favorites Tweed Museum of Art, Duluth, d.umn.edu/tma

thru Feb. 25

Converging Lines: Recent Art from the Northwest Thunder Bay Art Gallery, theag.ca

thru March 18

Modern(ism) Tweed Museum of Art, Duluth, d.umn.edu/tma

thru April

Arctic Wolf Exhibition: Featuring the Photography of Heidi Pinkerton International Wolf Center, Ely, wolf.org

thru November

Pacific Northwest Native Art from the William J. Saul Collection Tweed Museum of Art, Duluth, d.umn.edu/tma

Jan. 1-31

Sherri Kruger Exhibit (Reception Jan. 5 at 7 p.m.) Tettegouche State Park Visitors Center, Silver Bay

Jan. 3-31

Rosemary Guttormsson: Watercolors Lakeside Gallery, Duluth, lakesidegalleryduluth.com

Jan. 11-Feb. 25

David Short Duluth Art Institute, duluthartinstitute.org

Penny Perry Duluth Art Institute, duluthartinstitute.org

Tia Salmela Keobounpheng Duluth Art Institute, duluthartinstitute.org

Jan. 21, Sunday

Beargrease Photo Exhibit Opens Great Lakes Aquarium, Duluth, beargrease.com

Jan. 23-Aug. 19

Treasures from Home: An Anthology of Gifts from Collectors Tweed Museum of Art, Duluth, d.umn.edu/tma

Jan. 25, Thursday

Annual Member Show Duluth Art Institute, duluthartinstitute.org

Jan. 26-28

Winter Plein Air Artworks Exhibit (Reception Jan. 26 at 5 p.m.)

Johnson Heritage Post, Grand Marais, outdoorpaintersofminnesota.org

SVEA will perform during the February Hygge Festival in Grand Marais. | V.S. ARROWSMITH

2018

Sleeping

March

Lappe

March

HIP HOP DANCE

RESIDENCY WITH ANEKA MCMULLEN

Jan. 22-25

Aneka McMullen, dancer and educator, will engage students grades four through six at Silver Bay’s William Kelley School in a hip hop dance residency, held Jan. 22-25. Parents and community members are invited to the hip hop dance performance, performed by the students, on Thursday, Jan. 25 at 1:15 p.m. in the school auditorium.

As a music and dance form, hip hop is a fusion of rhythm and speech rooted in West African and African-American cultures. While rock-and-roll, soul, swing and later the go-go music are indebted to these early roots, hip hop, in its many expressions, is the voice of people seeking universal freedom. The dance residency is sponsored by the Northern Lake County Arts Board with financial support from the Rosemary and David Good Family Foundation. To learn more, visit: northernlakecountyartsboard.com

GNDWIRE SKI PARTY

Jan. 5-6 GNDWIRE Record’s third annual Ski Party returns to Lutsen Mountains with performances from Black Eyed Snakes, Dead Man Winter, Charlie Parr, All Tomorrow’s Petty, Roma di Luna, and Invisible Boy. This year’s event will also include a live broadcast from 89.3 The Current from Papa Charlie’s, pop-up shows around the ski resort, outdoor bonfires and winter games from the mad scientists at Bauhaus Brew Labs, and a custom Ski Party snowboard giveaway. Concerts will begin at 8:30 p.m. each night. Tickets can be purchased online in advance or at the door. Must be 21 or older to attend. lutsen.com

NORPINE FAT BIKE CLASSIC

Jan. 6, Saturday Cycling fanatics will brave the cold at the annual Norpine Fat Bike Classic in Lutsen. The 24-mile long course and 16-mile short course will run predominately on the Norpine cross-country ski trails, requiring riders to be on 3.7-inch or wider tires. Prizes will be given to the top three male and female athletes in four age

groups. Limited to 200 racers; $50 race entry registration required. The Norpine is part of the 45NRTH Great Lakes Fat Bike Series, which showcases the best fat bike races in the Great Lakes region. norpinefatbikeclassic.com

GUNFLINT MAIL RUN

Jan. 6-7 The Gunflint Mail Run Sled Dog Race is a continuous race consisting of two legs of equal distance, separated by a mandatory layover. There are two classes in the race: a 12-dog, 100-mile race and an 8-dog, 65-mile race. Races will start at 8 a.m. on Saturday at the Trail Center Lodge, and an awards banquet will be held at the lodge at 10 a.m. on Sunday. Spectators can find great viewing spots at Trail Center Lodge, Big Bear Lodge and Rockwood Lodge. Remember to leave your own dogs at home. gunflintmail.com

BANFF MOUNTAIN FILM FESTIVAL

Jan. 6-7 & Jan. 28 The Banff Mountain Film Festival is a compilation of high-energy outdoor films and documentaries with environmental messages. The Film competition is held in Banff, Alberta every fall, followed by a world tour featuring the winning films. This year, the festival will be at the Duluth DECC Jan. 6-7, hosted by the Duluth Cross Country Ski Club. The festival will also be at the Thunder Bay Community Auditorium on Sunday, Jan. 28; held at 7 p.m. banffcentre.ca/banffmountainfestival/tour

GRAND MARAIS OLE OPRY

Jan. 13, Saturday The North Shore Music Association presents its fifth annual Grand Marais Ole Opry, a classic country, old-time, honkytonk, and bluegrass music showcase of local and regional musicians. Emceed by WTIP’s “Classic Country” host Carl Solander, this year’s lineup features the Twin Cities-based band The Midwesternaires; Grand Marais Ole Opry 2016 inductee Gary Croft; and The Grievance Committee, a 13-member group from Cook County who first came together in the summer of 2017 to perform bluegrass music for a Bethlehem Lutheran Church service. The concert will be held at 7 p.m. at the Arrowhead Center for the Arts in Grand Marais. Tickets are $20 for adults and $5 for youth ages 18 and under. Tickets can be purchased in advance or at the door. northshoremusicassociation.com

FAMILY FUN NIGHT

Jan. 20, Saturday Bring the kids to Lutsen Mountains for Family Night at the Summit Chalet. Take a ride on the Summit Express Gondola to the top of Moose Mountain and enjoy a delicious dinner and entertainment for all ages. Activities include magic by Chaz, kid’s music with The Teddy Bear Band, art projects and face painting, a pizza party and fireworks. Family Night will be held from 5:30-8:30 p.m. Admission is $20 for adults and $12 for children ages 6-12. lutsen.com

The Black Eyed Snakes will perform at Papa Charlie’s for the third annual GNDWIRE Ski Party, held Jan. 5-6. | THOMAS FERRIAN

FROSTED FATTY BIKE FESTIVAL

Jan. 20-21 Held at Spirit Mountain in Duluth, the third annual Frosted Fatty Bike Festival features all sorts of activities and excitement. This year’s race categories include enduro, downhill, and head-to-head dual slalom, where bikers, skiers and snowboarders race it out for a $500 cash prize. There will be male and female categories for the enduro and downhill races, and a total of $5,000 in cash and prizes. Other activities include bike demonstrations, music, food and beverages, and more. Register to take part in the races, or simply come and watch. Find more information online. spiritmt.com

WINTER PLEIN AIR RETREAT & EXHIBIT

Jan. 21-26 The Outdoor Painters of Minnesota (OPM) will gather at YMCA Camp Menogyn up the Gunflint Trail for the annual Winter Plein Air retreat, where artists will paint the winter wonderland of the Northern Wilds. Cost to participate is $225 per person, which includes meals and lodging. Then, come enjoy the opening reception of their painted Winter Plein Air artworks on Friday, Jan. 26 from 5-8 p.m. at the Johnson Heritage Post Art Gallery in Grand Marais. The exhibit will be on display from Jan. 26-28. outdoorpaintersofminnesota.org

NORTHLAND 300

Jan. 24-28 The Northland 300 is a 300-mile, 3-day charity snowmobile ride, made up of volunteer participants who raise funds to support Special Olympics Minnesota. Held in Ely, this year marks the 30th anniversary ride and will include an opening night ceremony on Thursday, Jan. 25 in front of the Grand Ely Lodge. There will also be a free day ride, a vintage ride, a photo contest, prizes, and an anniversary celebration on Saturday, Jan. 27. The Northland 300 is never cancelled and 100 percent of all funds raised goes directly to the Special Olympics Minnesota. Registration is required to participate. northland300.org

LAKE SUPERIOR ICE FESTIVAL

Jan. 26-28 The Lake Superior Ice Festival, held on Barker’s Island in Superior, WI, features fun activities for the whole family. The event kicks off at 6 p.m. Friday night with the Great Lakes Pond Hockey Tournament’s first game, followed by the Guns and Hoses Pond Hockey game at 7 p.m. There will be a variety of events on Saturday, including ice sculptures, ice racing, Enbridge/UPI half-pipe snow slide, a kid’s zone with ice princesses and other characters, bonfires with s’mores, live radio broadcasts, live music Friday and Saturday, and a fireworks show Saturday night. Sunday events include open ice skating, a local arts and crafts fair, and the Great Lakes Pond Hockey Classic finals. Check online for a full list of activities. lakesuperioricefestival.com

BOULDER NIGHT SKI & SNOWSHOE

Jan. 27, Saturday Break out your Hawaiian shirt and enjoy an evening of tiki-lit skiing or showshoeing through the woods at Boulder Lake Environmental Learning Center in Duluth. Later, gather for hot chocolate and warm up around a bonfire. The event will be held from 6-8 p.m. Cost is $10. No registration required. All proceeds go to support Boulder’s education and outreach. d.umn.edu/boulder

DERELICTE 10

Jan. 27, Saturday Wearable art, fashion, dance, music and performance collide with runway models and contemporary design elements to create a fashion odyssey on the catwalk. This year’s show will feature 34 acts, 15 original wearable art pieces, walk off challenges, a raffle and costume prizes, paparazzi moments, Derelicte dancers, live music, catered refreshments, over 100 artists and models, seven local fashion houses, and an end of the night fashionista DJ dance party. The show will be held from 8 p.m.-2 a.m. at Black Pirates Pub in Thunder Bay. There is a cover charge of $15 and you must be 19 years or older to attend. definitelysuperior.com

ROBERT BURNS DINNER

Jan. 27, Saturday The traditional birthday celebration of Scottish poet Robert Burns will return to Cook County for the second annual dinner at Cascade Restaurant in Lutsen, held from 6-8:30 p.m. The event will include piping in of the haggis, toasting the haggis, and a full course dinner. Errol Schell, the Pipe Major from the Thunder Bay Pipe and Drums will be the piper. After dinner, Zach and Nissa Morgan will recite various toasts and some of Burn’s poems. There will also be a sing-along of some of Burn’s well-known folk turns throughout the evening. A social hour with live music and a cash bar

will be from 6-6:30 p.m. Dinner is from 6:30-7:30 p.m. and costs $35 per person. Dinner reservations can be made with Jeff Morgan and Mary MacDonald; deadline is Jan. 19. Call (218) 387-1221 or email for more info: creative@boreal.org.

SAWMILL LAKE CLASSIC TOUR

Jan. 27, Saturday Hosted by The Beaten Path Nordic Trails and Quetico Park staff, the Sawmill Lake Classic Tour is an old time traditional ski tour within Quetico Provincial Park. The narrow twisty trails will have skiers meandering through mixed forests alongside the Pickerel River over creeks and through lowland bogs to a halfway point at Sawmill Lake. The tour is not a race and if you carry your lunch and drinks on your back, you can enjoy them around an open fire before the last half of the loop back. Once past Sawmill Lake, the tour follows what was once an old logging road. An old prospector tent is the final warmup fire before the last stretch back. Refreshing beverages and a fire will be waiting at the Heritage Pavilion. Registration required; $20 fee. traveltheheart. org/things

WINTER POKER RUN

Jan. 27, Saturday The annual Winter Poker Run in Nolalu, Ontario, held on Saturday, January 27, will feature over $1000 in cash prizes. Registration starts at the Nolalu Community Centre at 10 a.m. and the event runs until 6 p.m. No poker hands will be accepted after the 6 p.m. deadline. Cost is $10 for the first hand and $5 for each additional hand. Canteen is open all day and an open bar will be available from 1-7 p.m. The event is open to all licensed and insured vehicles, as well as snowmobiles. For more info, call (807) 473-9819 or email: phylsfrills@ gmail.com.

RIDGE RIDERS DRAG RACES

Jan. 27, Saturday Come join the annual Drag Races on Devil Track Lake, held by the Ridge Riders Cook County Snowmobile Club. Signup starts at 11 a.m. and the races start at noon. Classes include 600cc, 700cc, 800cc and Open. Awards will be given at Skyport Lodge after

the races. Food and drink specials will also be available through Skyport Lodge and Raven Rock Grill. Then, don’t miss the ninth annual Fun Run on the Gunflint Trail, happening Saturday, Feb. 3; open to anyone and everyone. Collect cards from participating locations, while enjoying a ride on the scenic trails. Upon completion, you’ll return to the club house on Devil Track Lake. There will be cash prizes, numerous giveaways, raffles, live music and food. cookcountysnowmobileclub.com

JOHN BEARGREASE SLED DOG MARATHON

Jan. 28-31 Established in 1980, the John Beargrease Sled Dog Marathon is the longest sled dog race in the lower 48 states. It’s also a qualifier for the famed Iditarod in Alaska. This year, over 60 world class mushers will attend and over 500 volunteers from around the country. The mid-distance race and full distance marathon will start at 11 a.m. in Two Harbors, and all checkpoints and road crossings are easily accessible to the public, providing many opportunities to see your favorite team. Other Beargrease events include a meet the musher evening with Erin Altemus on Jan. 10 at Voyageur Brewing in Grand Marais; the cutest puppy contest at Fitger’s in Duluth on Jan. 20; mini sled dog races at Canal Park Brewing on Jan. 26; and a Beer Grease kick-off event at Glensheen Mansion on Jan. 26. beargrease.com

ELY WINTER FESTIVAL

Feb. 1-11 The annual Ely Winter Festival features dozens of family-friendly activities, such as a spaghetti feed, fat bike demos and rides, an amateur snow carving contest, Dorothy Molter Museum tours, live music, a kubb tournament, snowshoeing, a fish fry, and the Great Nordic Beard Fest Throwdown. The Ely Folk School will offer a variety of classes, such as rosemaling in telemark, making walnut potica, sewing with beaver hides, wool needle felting, and intro to digital photography. And don’t miss the night sky show on Feb. 3 from 7-9 p.m.—Mike Lynch and his travelling telescope will offer a cool green laser beam tour of the constellations, including mythological stories and an arsenal of telescopes to view planets, the moon, galaxies and more. elywinterfestival.com

Jan. 26-27

Dead Pigeons with Feeding Leroy 8:30 p.m. Gun Flint Tavern, Grand Marais, gunflinttavern.com

Jan. 26-28

Lake Superior Ice Festival Superior, WI, lakesuperioricefestival.com

Winter Plein Air Artworks Exhibit

(Reception Jan. 26 at 5 p.m.) Johnson Heritage Post, Grand Marais, outdoorpaintersofminnesota.org

Jan. 27, Saturday

Fun Run Snowmobile Ride Ely, ely.org/mn/events

Sawmill Lake Classic Tour

Quetico Provincial Park, Ontario, traveltheheart.org/things

Winter Poker Run 10 a.m. Nolalu Community Center (807) 473-9819

Baptism River Snowshoe Hike 1 p.m. Tettegouche State Park, Silver Bay, lakecountycalendars.org

Beer & Yoga 11:30 a.m.

Red Lion Smokehouse, Thunder Bay, facebook.com/redlionsmokehouse

Ridge Riders Snowmobile Drag Races Noon, Skyport Lodge, Devil Track Lake, cookcountysnowmobileclub.com

Modern(ism) Gallery Talk with Dr. Blaylock 2 p.m. Tweed Museum of Art, Duluth, d.umn.edu/tma

Felt Your Own Beer Koozie 4 p.m. Voyageur Brewing, Grand Marais, voyageurbrewing.com

Father Daughter Ball 5 p.m. Duluth DECC, fatherdaughterballduluth.org

John Beargrease Opening Ceremonies

5:30 p.m. Superior Shores, Two Harbors, beargrease.com

Robert Burns Dinner 6 p.m. Cascade Restaurant, Lutsen (218) 387-1221

Boulder Night Ski & Snowshoe 6 p.m. Boulder Lake Environmental Learning Center, Duluth, d.umn.edu/boulder/events.html

Yuk Yuk’s Comedy 7:30 p.m. Thunder Bay Community Auditorium, tbca.com

Derelicte 10 8 p.m.

Black Pirate’s Pub, Thunder Bay, definitelysuperior.com/derelicte-10

THHS One Act Play 8 p.m. Two Harbors High School, lakecountycalendars.org

Dessa & MONAKR 9 p.m. Papa Charlie’s, Lutsen, lutsen.com

Jan. 28, Sunday

Nordic Spirit Ski Race & Tour Spirit Mountain, Duluth, duluthxc.com

John Beargrease Race Start 11 a.m.

Two Harbors, beargrease.com

Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour 7 p.m. Thunder Bay Community Auditorium, tbca.com

Jan. 28-31

John Beargrease Sled Dog Marathon Two Harbors, beargrease.com

Jan. 29, Monday

Blood Drive 10:30 a.m. Lake View Clinic, Two Harbors, mbc.org

John Beargrease Mid-Distance Finish Gunflint Trail, beargrease.com

John Beargrease Musher Layover Grand Portage Lodge & Casino, Grand Portage, beargrease.com

Jan. 31, Wednesday

Quiz Night 8 p.m. Red Lion Smokehouse, Thunder Bay, facebook.com/redlionsmokehouse

Jan. 31-Feb. 2

Annual Bird Feeder Design Contest Dorothy Molter Museum, Ely, rootbeerlady.com

Feb. 1-4

Annual Elks Central Canada Hockey Tournament Thunder Bay, giantevents.ca

Feb. 1-11

Ely Winter Festival Ely, elywinterfestival.com

Feb. 3, Saturday

Ridge Riders Snowmobile Fun Run Gunflint Trail, cookcountysnowmobileclub.com

DSSO: Revelations 7 p.m. Duluth DECC, dsso.com

WEEKLY EVENTS

Mondays

Open Mic Night 6 p.m. Grandma Rays, Grand Marais (218) 387-2974

Live Music 8 p.m. Bluefin Bay, Tofte, bluefinbay.com

Tuesdays

Arena Afternoon Skating: Free 1:30 p.m. Ely Ice Arena, ely.org/mn/events

Meditation: A 6 Week Journey: Free (Registration Required) 5:30 p.m. First Presbyterian Church, Ely, ely.org/mn/events

Live Music 6 p.m. Poplar River Pub at Lutsen Resort, Lutsen, lutsenresort.com

Tuesday Trivia 7 p.m. Grandma Ray’s, Grand Marais (218) 387-2974

Wednesdays

Arena Afternoon Skating: Free 1:30 p.m. Ely Ice Arena, ely.org/mn/events

Country Market 3:30 p.m. CLE

Dove Building, Thunder Bay, thunderbaycountrymarket.com

Open Mic 5 p.m. Gun Flint Tavern, Grand Marais, gunflinttavern.com

Winter Series Presentations 6 p.m. Grand Marais Public Library grandmaraislibrary.org

Women’s Basketball: Free 7 p.m. Ely Memorial Gym, ely.org/mn/events

Thursdays

Arena Afternoon Skating: Free 1:30 p.m. Ely Ice Arena, ely.org/mn/events

Date Night at the Winery 6 p.m. North Shore Winery, Lutsen, northshorewinery.us

Live Music 6 p.m. Poplar River Pub at Lutsen Resort, lutsenresort.com

DJ Trivia 7 p.m. Kamloops, Two Harbors, superiorshores.com

Fridays

Preschool Storytime 10:30 a.m. Ely Public Library, elylibrary.org

Live Music Grandma Ray’s, Grand Marais (218) 387-2974

Live Music 4 p.m. Voyageur Brewing, Grand Marais, voyageurbrewing.com

Friday Night Reels 6 p.m. Grand Marais Public Library, grandmaraislibrary.org

Live Music 7 p.m.

Castle Danger Brewery, Two Harbors, castledangerbrewery.com

Live Music 8 p.m. Bluefin Bay, Tofte, bluefinbay.com

Saturdays

Country Market 8 a.m. CLE

Dove Building, Thunder Bay, thunderbaycountrymarket.com

Open Knitting 1 p.m. Sisu Designs Yarn Shop, Ely, sisudesigns.org

Free: Tour the North House Campus 2 p.m. North House Folk School, Grand Marais, northhouse.org

Live Music Grandma Ray’s, Grand Marais (218) 387-2974

Live Music 7 p.m. Lutsen Resort, lutsenresort.com

The North Shore Dish

Family-run Restaurants Share Traditions

Food is a tangible expression of culture and traditions, whether it stems from a specific geography or even an individual family. It is often one of the ways we can easily share our own history and traditions and learn about others, without hopping on an airplane. We build community and connections through food. In a globalizing society, food traditions from the other side of the world may not seem as foreign as they used to, with more availability of items, recipes and restaurants. As humans continue to migrate, our food traditions and palates will continue to change; I think for the better. Being able to buy kimchi at my local grocer? I call that a food and culture win.

With the explosion of online recipes and international cookbooks, it is not hard to find recipes to make food from another country or culture. Yet, we each need that impetus to try another dish or know it even exists. One individual is working to bring his family’s traditions to Ontario at Nel’s Pub and Grill. Owner Zeca Ribeiro emigrated with his family from Portugal to Canada as a teenager, to be closer to family. Today, he’s serving up Portuguese, Greek and Canadian dishes to residents and visitors alike in Terrace Bay.

“I try to cook everything to the old roots, how it was made originally,” said Ribeiro.

This fuels the restaurant’s menu, pulling from a variety of traditions. In addition to his lineage being from Portugal, Ribeiro also travels back to Portugal annually to visit family. While traditional dishes inspire his menu, he develops his own recipes, trying to pull a bit from all over the world. The Bifana sandwich is seasoned pork on a Portuguese bun with sautéed onions and peppers, a popular Portuguese dish. At Nel’s, the gyro is a customer favorite.

“I don’t believe in seasoning meat too much, because you lose the meat flavor,” said Ribeiro.

Other international dishes on the menu include chicken souvlaki and shawarma.

A challenge for home cooks and restaurants is sourcing of traditional ingredients. There are a number of items Ribeiro sources via Toronto from Portugal. He is also able to get other items from right in Terrace Bay, supporting the local grocer. A reminder that global can meet local even in the Northern Wilds.

For current hours and additional information on Nel’s Pub and Grill (1240 Hwy.17, at corner of Mill Road, Terrace Bay), visit: facebook.com/nelspubandgrill

A shopping mall may not be the place that comes to mind when you think of international fare, but the Mariner Mall in Superior, WI has a hidden treasure: Guadalajara Mexican Restaurant. For over 15 years, a family from Guadalajara, Mexico has been the backbone of this local favorite, featuring family recipes and fresh, homemade Mexican food.

The Northern Wilds bridge the other border, but Guadalajara brings the south of the border flavor to our area. The menu

Choose from a wide variety of Greek and Canadian options from Naxo’s dinner menu, including the Grecian chicken platter. | NAXOS GRILL AND BAR
This Portuguese sandwich, called the Bifana, features seasoned pork with sautéed peppers and onions at Nel’s Pub and Grill. | NEL’S PUB AND GRILL

boasts many favorites, from fajitas to burritos. Guadalajara also offers homemade pork tamales, which are not easy to find in the northwoods.

“Our salsa and chips are homemade,” said part owner and manager, Rebeca Mata. Fresh and homemade are at the center of the menu and operation.

The family focus extends to the dining room, with Mata welcoming kids and families to dine with them. “We love kids.” Some of the local Spanish classes have made a visit to Guadalajara Mexican Restaurant part of their curriculum, sharing the culture and traditions of Mexico and the State of Jalisco through cooking and food.

Guadalajara Mexican Restaurant is open Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. (69 N 28th St E, Ste 7 at the Mariner Mall, Superior).

In Thunder Bay, ethnic restaurants are quite a bit easier to find compared to other parts of the Northern Wilds. One family-owned restaurant has been sharing its heritage through food for a decade. Naxos Grill and Bar is named after the Greek island where owner Penny Kahramanos’ father was born. The restaurant now brings together family and friends over Greek and Canadian inspired food, seven days a week.

On a recent visit, my little family enjoyed the welcoming staff and laidback dining setting. A lover and maker of Greek dishes, I was excited to try a few of Naxos authentic dishes using traditional family recipes from Greece. The spanakopita was

a hit, both with me and my one-year-old daughter. The Greek salad had a light but flavorful dressing, which they also sell for taking home. The avgolemono, a traditional Greek soup, is made with chicken, rice and egg in a rich lemon broth. It was a fresh, delicious meal. Many customers have remarked that they appreciate the balance between traditional Greek and more familiar Canadian menu items.

Naxos Grill and Bar is open every day, starting at 8 a.m. This is great on Sundays

when many other spots are closed in Thunder Bay (610 West Arthur Street).

Human migration has allowed us opportunities to learn about other cultures and traditions through food. It also allows us to maintain connections to our own heritage. I look forward to teaching my daughter how to make recipes from Scandinavia but also those from across the world. A taste of bibimbap may lead to a future trip to South Korea, or salad nicoise to studying in France. Food can be a gateway to

Tamales originated in Mesoamerica around 5,000 B.C. Today, they are still being enjoyed throughout the year, but especially during the holiday season. | GUADALAJARA

cultural exchange and international understanding. We connect to others over and through food; we all have to eat, why not enjoy it? Stop in one of these family-run restaurants to experience a taste of another culture and take a moment to learn more about their traditions and your own.

It’s a team effort when tamales are made by hand at Guadalajara Mexican Restaurant. | GUADALAJARA

Please Don’t Take My Sunshine Away

The sun seems impossibly far off this time of year. During the winter months, darkness predominates, not sunlight. So why are we touting the importance of sunscreen if the sun we love so much all but disappears from November to March? Because the sun, no matter the time of year, always emits ultraviolet (UV) radiation and UV radiation, no matter the time of year, is always hard on the skin.

It’s natural to associate winter with windburn and frostbite. But wintertime sunburn is just as much a concern, maybe more, than any cold-related ailment. Up to 80 percent of the sun’s rays can penetrate cloud cover. So even when the sun is shrouded by the quintessential gray sky of January, exposed skin is still susceptible to damage. Snow also reflects up to 80 percent of the UV light from the sun. In other words, when you’re out for a leisurely snow shoe, you may as well be hiking on a mirror because all those rays you’ve already been exposed to get thrown right back up at your face. It’s the two-for-one deal your skin didn’t bargain for.

UV radiation is associated with more than 90 percent of all skin cancers. Ranging from mild to life-threatening, skin cancer is nothing to scoff at. Being vigilant about protecting your skin with sunscreen is the best way to avoid the damaging rays that can cause cancer.

Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF (Sun Protection Factor) of 30 or higher whenever you spend extended time outdoors. If possible, apply 30 minutes before going outdoors. Don’t skimp, either. You should use at least a teaspoon of sunscreen on your face alone. Use additional sunscreen to protect areas like the ears, neck, hands and scalp. Reapplication is key, too. Both snow and strong wind can wear away sunscreen and decrease its effectiveness. Reapplying every two hours is a good rule of thumb.

Downhill skiers need to be extra vigilant. Higher altitudes translate to an increased risk of damaging exposure, since UV radiation increases as altitude does. For every 1,000 feet above sea level you go, UV radiation exposure rises by four to five percent. Skiers hitting the slopes at Lutsen Mountains, for example, will come up against

Sawtooth Mountain Clinic’s Giving Tree

It’s natural to associate winter with windburn

eight percent more UV radiation. Add the mirror effect of snow and the strong, slopeside winds and you’ve got a recipe for unwanted skin damage.

Carrying a travel-sized bottle of sunscreen with you on the slopes means you can reapply between runs. Lips, too, are susceptible to sun damage. Using a lip balm with an SPF of 15 or higher will not only keep your lips from getting chapped but will protect them against radiation.

Covering as much skin as possible is another way to avoid UV radiation. Wearing a stocking cap and scarf protects your scalp and neck while keeping you warm.

A cloth ski mask is another option, leaving very little skin exposed to wind and sun. Sunglasses or goggles that offer 99 percent or more UV protection are great, especially for windy winter sports. Skin around the eyes is especially susceptible to sun exposure and are common sites for cancer. Plus, fine lines and wrinkles caused by the sun show up quick around the eyes. And please don’t think that because you’re young, you don’t need to worry.

“It’s the opposite,” says Sawtooth Mountain Clinic medical director, Paul Terrill. “The sunburn that gives you skin cancer is the one you got 20 years ago. You can’t undo that. So, invest in your skin’s future.”

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Ameriprise Financial cannot guarantee future financial results. The Compass is a trademark of Ameriprise Financial, Inc. Ameriprise Financial Services, Inc. Member FINRA and SIPC @2017 Ameriprise Financial, Inc. All rights reserved. (12/17)

Fulfilled their firm review based on internal firm standards; 5. Accepting new clients; 6. One-year client retention rate; 7. Five-year client retention rate; 8. Non-institutional discretionary and/or non-discretionary client assets administered; 9. Number of client households served; 10. Education and professional designations. Wealth managers do not pay a fee to be considered or awarded. Once awarded, wealth managers may opt to purchase additional profile ad space or related award promotional products. The award methodology does not evaluate the quality of services provided. The award is not indicative of the award winner’s future performance. *To qualify as having a favorable regulatory and complaint history for this award, the person cannot have (1) been subject to a regulatory action that resulted in a license being suspended or revoked, or payment of a fine, (2) had more than a total of three customer complaints filed against them (settled or pending) with any regulatory authority or Five Star Professional’s consumer complaint process, (3) individually contributed to a financial settlement of a customer complaint filed with a regulatory authority, (4) filed for bankruptcy, or (5) been convicted of a felony

Loan

Keith Erickson and his family live just a few houses downriver from PolyMet Mining’s proposed project. A thirdgeneration miner, Keith understands how PolyMet’s plan will clean up legacy issues and protect his family’s way of life, which includes enjoying the water right in their backyard.

PolyMetMining.com

Northern Trails 50 Shades of Grey (Trout)

The lake trout—sometimes called grey trout—is a species seemingly designed by Mother Nature for winter. The colder, snappier and brighter the winter day, the more those grey trout like it. They can strike an angler’s jigged line with great ferocity, and when hooked through the ice, lakers rarely fight with anything less than full commitment. This is different than the summer caught laker which can, occasionally, come in like a bag of sand.

One of the coolest things about lake trout is the wide range of body types and colorations you will bump into when you angle them. Over my nearly 50 years of chasing these fish, I’ve seen an incredible range of subspecies. About 25 years ago, in a small lake north of Atikokan, I was fishing with a small group of local anglers. They had been telling me about the lake, and it’s small and exquisite looking trout. Being a fan of unusual looking trout, I was dying to see one. When we finally caught one—a typical one pounder apparently—it had the most incredible knot of dots on its flank and had an unusually dark, nearly purple coloration. The fish looked like nothing so much as the aquatic version of a jungle cat.

“What’s the name of this lake?” I asked, as I admired the dappled grey trout. “Leopard Lake is what we call it,” came the reply.

On another lake, located west of Thunder Bay, the grey trout are anything but. In fact, some of them are so red and orange bellied they look like they could be deep water brook trout. Why these fish look so different than all of the lake trout in other nearby lakes is one of those mysteries that will likely not be solved by science. To make it all even stranger, the trout in this particular lake feed almost completely on smelt. Yet when you clean one, the meat is red, orange or yellow, and not the white or grey you would expect to see. The meat is also delicious and remarkably lean. A subspecies, genetic anomaly or something else? Just another mystery.

The lake trout of Superior are a whole other ball of wax. There are a handful of different lake trout subspecies in Gitche Gumee and they fill different niches and depths. The deepest water fish are known as siscowets, and are very pale in coloration and have fatty flesh, making them less than palatable. You can smoke a siscowet, but it will still be a very greasy thing to handle. Siscowet can be found in depths of 200 feet or more. These deeper

water fish are very easy to catch and will smack nearly anything dropped to them. But they come up from the deep water with an acute case of the bends and are generally un-releasable. So unless you like dining on fatty fleshed lake trout, avoid fishing the depths of over 100 feet.

On the opposite side of the spectrum are the fish known locally along Superior’s North Shore as redfins. The redfin lake trout is found in much shallower water and looks entirely differently than a deeper water fish. A redfin lake trout is longer and has noticeably larger pectoral fins. They also have quite a bit of colour compared to the siscowet and other deeper water Superior lake trout. The redfin is also much better on the table, with a better flavour and leaner texture than the deep water Superior grey trout. If you want to target redfin lakers, you will be well served ice fishing in water that is less than 50 feet deep. In fact, I’ve caught winter redfin in less than 20 feet of water. These fish seem to like to nose up in the rocks and weeds near shore areas looking for minnows. Redfins also like mid lake humps and bumps in Superior. There is a 60-foot hump in Thunder Bay that was created (I’ve been told) when they dredged the harbour and had to dump the stuff. This bump in the middle of a 100-foot flat was always a redfin magnet. I assume it still is, although I’ve not fished it for two decades.

Whether you call them lakers or grey trout, there is no doubt these are great fish to target during the winter. These fish are unique, beautiful and found only in the most pristine waters. Thankfully, north -

western Ontario still has a lot of places for the grey trout to roam.

Gord Ellis Sr. with a lovely winter laker, or grey trout. | GORD ELLIS
Another shade of grey. | GORD ELLIS The late Sandro Fragale with a beautiful lake trout. | GORD ELLIS

The Great Lakes at Ten Miles an Hour

One Cyclist’s Journey Along the Shores of the Inland Seas

University of Minnesota Press, $16.95

Over the course of four summers, author Thomas Shevory rode his bicycle around the Great Lakes. This book is Shevory’s account of his travels, paired with his exploration and observations of the geological, environmental, historical and cultural riches harbored by North America’s great inland seas. Throughout the book, Shevory describes the engaging characters he encounters along the way and the surprising range of country and city landscapes, bustling and serene locales that he experiences, making us true companions on his ride.—Breana Roy

The Sioux Chef ’s Indigenous Kitchen

Locally sourced, seasonal, “clean” ingredients are nothing new to Sean Sherman, the Oglala Lakota chef and founder of The Sioux Chef. In his breakout book, The Sioux Chef’s Indigenous Kitchen, Sherman shares his approach to creating boldly seasoned foods that are vibrant, healthy, elegant and easy. Sherman dispels outdated notions of Native American fare—no fry bread or Indian tacos here— and no European staples such as wheat flour, dairy products, sugar, and domestic pork and beef. Instead, his recipes include venison and rabbit, river and lake trout, duck and quail, wild turkey, blueberries, sage, sumac, wild turnip and more. Dishes include deviled duck eggs, roasted corn sorbet, hazelnut-maple bites, and griddled wild rice cakes.—Breana Roy

WHY GO: Benson Lake is a solid option for splake once the winter season for stream trout on lakes opens up on January 13. It is inside George Crosby Manitou State Park, and there are a few campsites on the lake, making it a good option to combine a little winter camping with ice fishing.

ACCESS: Benson Lake is 8.5 miles northeast of Finland, off of C.R. 7, and there is a carry-in access on the northwest side of the lake. During summer months, it’s a shorter walk to the lake from where you park. During the winter, the access road is partially closed to vehicles, so the hike to the lake is about a half-mile long.

VITALS: Benson is 19.4 acres, with a maximum depth of 36 feet. It’s relatively clear, with an average water clarity of 15.5 feet. Because it’s inside a state park, an entrance fee is required, available at Tettegouche State Park’s Visitor Center (218-353-8800), which administers the park, or the self-registration envelopes available around the state parks. Crosby Manitou is popular with snow-shoers, and snowmobiles are not allowed in the park.

GAME SPECIES PRESENT: Splake.

NOW A SPLAKE LAKE: The state used to stock the lake with brook trout until about the 1970s, when it began alternating between brookies and splake. Since 1988, it has been exclusively stocked with splake,

technician out of the Finland office.

Benson has been known to produce some stocky splake. It has typically been stocked with about 2,500 splake every spring.

The action always seems best for those first couple of weeks of the winter season, Stern said, with a hit or miss scenario once February rolls around.

Stern said ice anglers typically use smaller jigging tackle, like a jigging spoon tipped with a minnow head, or a small jig tipped with a waxworm.

OPEN WATER, TOO: While the heaviest fishing pressure on Benson is in the winter, the lake is a decent spring option for anglers, too. There is a boardwalk spanning the lake’s entire shoreline, extending some easier access to shore anglers.

BATTERIES NOT INCLUDED: Because Benson Lake is inside the state park, gas augers, like gas boat motors, aren’t allowed. So hand augers or quiet, electric or battery-powered augers, which have gained popularity in recent years, are allowed.

This is how park staff tends to interpret statute, as electric boat motors are generally allowed inside state parks, while banning gas motors since state statute prohibits motorized watercraft in excess of 10 miles per hour.

The Kids

Ultimate Animal Adventure Book

745 Quirky Facts and Hands-On Activities for Year-Round Fun

Whether your exploring your own backyard or climbing a mountaintop, you’re sure to encounter birds, insects, reptiles, amphibians, fish, and all kinds of amazing mammals along the way. But did you know that a queen bee can lay up to 1,000 eggs in a day? Or that huge, dinosaur-like dragonflies use to exist? Organized in a see, learn, do format, The Kids’ Ultimate Animal Adventure Book first lays the groundwork for observing and learning about animals—from their behavior and habitat to the truths and myths about them. It also includes animal-related activities, like going owling, planting a garden for butterflies, and catching frogs. —Breana Roy

BENSON LAKE

CAMPING OPTION: There are four fee campsites on the lake, with three on the closer shore, as you approach, and a fourth on the far end of the lake, for those seeking more privacy. They are all “backpack” sites (Nos. 19-22), with food lockers and latrines, and there is a hike to get to any of these sites.—Javier Serna

said Dick Stern, a DNR fisheries

Wild Traditions

From Rags to Rugs: An Enduring Form of Folk Art

On a wintery Monday morning, I walked through the doors of a local recreation centre at the end of Toivo Street in Thunder Bay. About two dozen ladies, who filled the room, looked up at me from their seats. Bundles of yarn, various weaving and knitting projects, and a couple of small looms sat on the tables in front of them.

“You look lost,” called out one woman from across the room. I was quickly greeted by Sue-Ellen Blekkenhorst, treasurer of the Thunder Bay Weavers and Spinners Guild, and Sylvia Goodheart, the organization’s past president.

Today the guild is nearly 60 members strong, and many of them convene at Jumbo Gardens Recreation Centre for weekly drop-in sessions. The tables are arranged in a horseshoe pattern, encouraging a social atmosphere. During my visit, some women sat in clusters, talking and sharing in their work: a pair of knitted socks, skeins of home-spun and hand-dyed yarn, and in-progress pieces woven from rigid heddles, which are lap-sized looms used for weaving smaller items like table runners and scarves.

“Members bring whatever project they’re working on, and it’s mostly for support and camaraderie,” explains Goodheart, who’s been a member of the guild for more than 30 years.

In what began as two separate groups of local handweavers and fibre artists, the Thunder Bay Weavers and Spinners Guild was born after they amalgamated in 1980. For the last 50 years, active members have dedicated their efforts toward sharing and teaching the art of weaving and spinning through workshops and seasonal retreats offered by volunteer instructors.

“Our instructors do not get paid, it’s all volunteer. Our mandate is to teach the craft,” said Goodheart, adding that some come from as far away as Toronto and Winnipeg. “You can make anything. You can make rugs, you can make tea towels, you can make tablecloths. We make blankets downstairs.”

She led me to the building’s basement and into a small room with shelves lined with binders, books and magazines covering everything from the history of weaving and spinning to its various techniques. Most of the room was taken up by a wooden 120-inch loom used to make coverlets, blankets, tablecloths and catalognes, which

usually don’t. We usually go to the Salvation Army and buy sheets.”

Sitting next to another large, yet smaller loom, was 79-year-old Maija Vilcins, who immigrated to Canada from Latvia as a child during the Second World War. She ran her fingers over a Finnish-style rag rug made from colored bamboo fabric in hues of yellow, cream and gray. Similar to the catalogne, in its traditional form a rag rug is made from otherwise degraded pieces of cloth that were at one time household linens and textiles.

“It was almost the last stage of the fabric’s useful life before it got turned into rag rugs,” explained Vilcins, who’s been a member of the guild for the last 10 years.

Although many other immigrants have a tradition of making rag rugs, Finnish Americans are one of the few groups to have maintained the culture of rag weaving in their adopted country, explains Yvonne R. Lockwood in her book, Finnish American Rag Rugs: Art, Tradition and Ethnic Continuity

Traditional Finnish rag rugs were often beautiful, strong and practical. Their primary use was utilitarian, functioning as everyday coverings in living rooms, bedrooms, or on stairs to protect or warm the floors of the house. But weavers also paid careful attention to their design, experimenting with different patterns and colors.

Although Vilcins’ mother and sisters were also weavers, she admits that none of her younger family members have followed suit. One would think it’s a sign of the times (in 1990, due to aging demographics, the guild shrunk to just 15 members), but in recent years there’s been renewed local interest in weaving and spinning. Just last month, the guild gained five new members following a workshop.

“We’re growing,” said Goodheart.

Sue-Ellen Blekkenhorst agrees. “One of the girls who took our spinning course, she said, ‘I like this old-time stuff.’”

Kristin Keller is a perfect example. At 34-years-old, she’s a self-taught knitter who was inspired by her grandmothers to carry on the craft. She’s also passionate about hand-spinning and dying the yarn that she works with.

“I started spinning about three years ago because I wanted to make yarn that you just can’t buy in the store. Everything is so mass-produced and everybody has the same yarn, so I wanted to make stuff that was unique, 100 percent one-of-a-kind,” she told me, pulling a bundle of hand-dyed homespun purple yarn from her bag.

are a traditional French-Canadian style of woven bed covers and rugs. Originating in Quebec, the catalogne is the product of the thrifty practice of weaving recycled rags of clothing and household textiles into colorful rugs and blankets.

“It’s woven light and it fits whatever size bed you want it to fit,” explains Goodheart. The 120-inch loom works the same as any

loom, but takes two people to operate. “We both have to be in sync. We kind of sing out what pedals to push and it opens up and you throw your warp through.”

“Now this is a weft,” said Goodheart, gesturing to the colourful threads that are woven horizontally, bound together by vertical threads, called the warp, which holds the weft together. “You can use rags but we

“I couldn’t replicate it if I tried. It kind of makes me feel good inside to have something that’s 100 percent me, it’s all me, my heart and soul is poured into it to make it and then I’m wearing it. It’s a representation of myself.”

For more information, visit: ohs.on.ca

Sylvia Goodheart (foreground) shuttles fabric across a 120-inch loom to Sue-Ellen Blekkenhorst, both members of the Thunder Bay Weavers and Spinners Guild. | JULIA PRINSELAAR

northern sky

JANUARY 2018

January starts and ends with full “supermoons”—one on New Year’s Day and one on the 31st.

On New Year’s Day we get the closest full moon of the year. Perfect fullness comes at 8:24 p.m.—just four hours after moonrise and less than five hours after the moon reaches perigee, its closest approach to Earth in a lunar cycle. In other words, 2018 starts with a rising moon that scores way up on the size, brightness and roundness scales.

On Jan. 31, the moon reaches fullness at 7:27 a.m. It also undergoes a total lunar eclipse, which begins at 6:52 a.m., reaches deepest eclipse at 7:30 a.m. and ends at 8:08 a.m. Unfortunately, over the eastern part of the state this supermoon sets before or very shortly after the deepest eclipse. Still, the eclipse will deliver more than enough for a great early-morning show. This full moon also meets one definition of a “blue moon:” the second full moon in a calendar month.

The morning sky continues to outdo its evening counterpart in terms of planet watching. Early in the month, Saturn

slips over the southeastern horizon and climbs higher every day. Jupiter begins the month high in the southeastern predawn sky, just to the lower left of Mars. On the 6th and 7th, watch brighter Jupiter climb past Mars, coming barely half a moon width from the red planet. On the 11th, a waning crescent moon visits the planets, which will then be about two degrees apart. Southeast of both planets, Scorpius and its gigantic red heart, Antares, are rising.

Another bright red star shines in the east after nightfall. That is Betelgeuse, at Orion’s northeast shoulder. Grab your binoculars and find the sword hanging from the three stars of Orion’s belt. The sword’s middle “star” is the Orion Nebula, an immense region of multicolored gas and dust clouds where young stars are forming at a breakneck pace.

The University of Minnesota offers public viewings of the night sky at its Duluth campus. For more information and viewing schedules, see the Marshall W. Alworth Planetarium at: d.umn.edu/planet.

9 am - 7 pm 7 Days a Week

Ice Magic

Ice, whether we like it or not, is a big part of our life this time of year. By early January, our northern lakes are all frozen except for Superior, which only freezes over every 20 years—and even then, never freezes completely. Some lakes in our area will have ice two or three feet thick, and on average our lakes are covered in ice five to six months a year. Try a few of these ideas to make the most out of frozen water this year.

We all Scream for Snow Cream!

After a fresh snowfall, try making your own ice cream. No ice cream maker needed. Scoop 6 to 8 cups of fresh snow into a pre-chilled bowl. On the side, mix one can of sweetened condensed milk with a half teaspoon of vanilla. Add half of your milk mixture to your snow, mix, and then taste—this might be plenty. Add more until you like it. Eat.

Make Ice Lanterns

Ice lanterns can light up your yard for a festive occasion. You will need: small candles and buckets—any size from an ice cream bucket to a five-gallon bucket will do. I used a restaurant size steel can, which worked well.

Fill your containers with water. Put them outside to freeze. Do not let them freeze solid. Ideally you want them to freeze so that you have about two inches of ice or so on all sides. Turn upside down and pour hot water over the container so that the ice chunk pops out. Now you need to get to the middle of that ice to drain the water on the inside. Place your candle on the inside and light, and voila’: there is light in the darkness.

You can actually use balloons to do this as well for a more rounded globe lantern, but you might have to use a drill to access the middle and drain the water.

Remember that a candle needs air to stay lit, so allowing air in from the bottom or drilling a hole down from the top should allow enough air for the candle to burn.

Can you really freeze boiling water mid-air?

The short answer is yes. When it is really cold outside, such as -10 degrees F. or colder, and you toss boiling water in the air, the water droplets separate and evaporate. Cold water is not able to evaporate as quickly, so if you toss cold water in the air, it may hit the ground before freezing.

If you try this, be sure to pay attention to the wind—hot water can blow back toward you before evaporating, causing burns. Rather than throwing the water up overhead, throw it out and away from you and away from any bystanders.

Blow Ice Bubbles

Blowing bubbles can be really fun. Blowing bubbles when its below zero? Even better.

Mix 1 cup warm water with 1/3 cup corn syrup and 1/3 cup dish soap. Add 2 tablespoons sugar. Once mixed, put in the fridge or freezer to chill.

Make your own bubble maker by rigging a straw into a squeezable bottle. Doing this instead of blowing them yourself keeps the solution colder. Give the bottle a little squeeze to blow a bubble out your straw. Ideally, your bubbles need a cold surface on which to land, such as an outdoor table.

STUNNING LAKE

SUPERIOR VIEWS.

Immaculate and beautifully furnished 4 bdrm, 3 bath Lake Superior home. Very little maintenance with smaller association benefits! All major rooms with stunning lake views. Master suite and laundry on main level. MLS# 6028321

$565,000

FOUR SEASONS GUEST HOUSE. Family compound or short-term rentals-you choose. Endless views, solidly built, rear parcel with lake views, new septic, and location, location, location!

MLS# 6030289

LAKE SUPERIOR HOME SITE Great Lake Superior lot with an excellent site for walkout. Surveyed and level open location for your new home. This 1.07 acre parcel has a very neat, private cove and a 447' of meandering ledge rock shoreline. MLS# 6027506 $299,000

CLASSIC CABIN ON CLEARWATER

LAKE. Comfortable, well maintained 2 bdrm, 1 bath cabin cared for by the same family for over 60 years. 205 feet of shoreline on much sought after Clearwater lake with direct access to the BWCA. MLS# 6027760 $259,000

$515,000 SALE PENDING SALE PENDING PANORAMIC LAKE SUPERIOR. Gorgeous 10 acres with panoramic views on Lake Superior. 545 feet of beautiful sand/gravel beach with a stream running through the property. Located only 1.5 miles from Gooseberry State Park. Septic hook up is at the road. MLS# 6031490 $399,000

LAKE SUPERIOR, BIG BAY, BIG VIEWS. Dense spruce forest, moss covered boulders and privacy make this a classic Lake Superior lot. 200' shoreline with partial driveway in place, shared road maintenance, power and Broadband. Easy access from Hwy 61, yet private and secluded feeling. MLS# 6029039 $199,900

WILDERNESS INVESTMENT OPPORTUNITY. 2000+ acres of Cook County land with 6 lakes. Over 10,000' of shoreline. Various parcels spread across the Superior National Forest, most accessible via forest service roads. The Mark Lake parcel is 159 acres with 200’ shoreline for sale separately: $219,000. MLS# 6025545 $3,100,000

MARK LAKE - 159 ACRES. The only private land on Mark Lake! Good northern fishing. 200ft. Shoreline, forestry road or snowmoblie access. Motivated Seller! MLS# 6026299 $239,000

RARE GUNFLINT LAKE PARCEL. Exceptional lot with 344' of waterfront features unreal views and privacy. Use the slope of this lot to your advantage when considering what style to build. Power and broadband available. Borders public land! MLS# 6027298 $225,000

SECLUSION AND SERENITY IN MAPLE FOREST. Immaculate, Mulfinger designed 2 bdrm, 2 bath home situated perfectly into the terrain with rock outcroppings and stunning views through the tree tops. Deep woods privacy, beautiful features and 220' lake shore. MLS# 6032538 $359,900 CABIN WITH BWCAW VIEW ON MCFARLAND. This super 2 bdrm cabin has great views of the Palisades and the west end of McFarland Lake. Just a stone’s throw from the BWCAW! Comes furnished including pontoon boat, fishing boats, canoe, dock, and two Onan generators. MLS# 6029644 $199,000

LOON LAKE GETAWAY. Lovely furnished cabin on pristine Loon Lake. Includes a newer 1 bdrm addition, cozy loft, open living/ dining room, sturdy deck, and 24' dock on 142' shoreline.

INLAND WATER PROPERTIES

Cabin easily sleeps 6. Lakewater system, septic holding tank. Great lake views! MLS# 6030355 $186,000

PRIME PIKE LAKE Wilderness, woods and lakeshore. Pristine views of Superior Nat'l across the lake, towering white pine overhead. Virgin pine and cedar are unique here! The 252' frontage and 3 acres have gentle shore, crystal clear water and great privacy. Driveway and drilled well. Power and Broadband available. Fishing, wildlife and easy access to Lutsen or Grand Marais. MLS# 6032300 $179,900

LOG SIDED CABIN ON

TOM LAKE. This 2 bdrm, 1 bath cabin is situated on the shore of Tom Lake with loons and walleye just off the 24' dock. Solar power with quiet generator, though grid electric is available. Features a spiral staircase to a spacious loft and energy efficient windows.

MLS# 6030876 $160,000

NORTH FOWL LAKE CABIN. Only a lucky few get to own cabins here. Remote water access from the US side, or drive in to the landing on Ontario side. Stunning views, easy access to the BWCA. The 2 bdrm cabin is one of the nicest remote cabins you'll find. Includes a great sauna. MLS# 6023214 $158,500

VIRGIN PINE, GREAT SHORELINE, PIKE LAKE. Three lake lots with wilderness, woods, and lakeshore are waiting for your dream lake home or cabin. Pristine views, towering white pine, +/- 200' accessible shoreline each with crystal clear water and great privacy. Good driveway in place, ideal location, power and broadband available. Four total lots can be purchased together at a discount. MLS# 6032297-99 $129,900+

SOLITUDE ON LOON LAKE. These 1-2 acre lots are located on the south side of Loon Lake and offer great lake views, 152-218’ beautiful shoreline and many nice trees. The main road is in place and power is on the lot line. MLS# 6032216-18, 6032220 $120,000 and up TOM LAKE CABIN –GREAT VIEWS. This 2 bdrm cabin on Tom Lake has great potential. The inside is in nice shape, the exterior needs some love. Great screen porch, unique and rare boat house, and gentle lot with 165' shoreline and dock. Furnishings included! MLS# 6031289 $89,900

BEAUTIFUL NINEMILE LAKE LOT. End of the road, large lot adjoins Superior National Forest and Cabin Creek Unit Roadless Area. Great trees, views and building site on 4.1 acres with 397 feet of shoreine. Unique privacy, year round access and power. MLS# 6031840 $89,300

LARGE LAND, PINES, PRIVACY AND PIKE

LAKE VIEW. Outstanding property with adjoining USFS lands, good access on Murmur Creek Rd, and even nice views of Pike Lake. Launch your boat just a half-mile away. Nice planted red pine, power/broadband close by. MLS# 6032302 $84,900

PRIVACY AND VIEWS AT SISTER LAKE. Nice lake lot with great forest, and beautiful new building site. There's a high point of the surrounding area with awesome views. Excellent, accessible shoreline. New driveway to a great building site. This is a great area for fishing many lakes in the area. You're also close to Tofte/Lutsen on the North Shore. Priced to sell!! MLS# 6031704 $74,900

LOT ON NINEMILE LAKE. Beautiful, large lot on Ninemile Lake in Finland. Lot adjoins Superior National Forest and Cabin Creek Unit Roadless Area with excellent shoreline and views. Power and year round access! MLS# 6028511 $69,000

RARE ELBOW LAKE LOT. For the fisherman who has almost everything. This is a very private 1 acre parcel surrounded by federal land with 268’ shoreline. Your own shore lunch spot! MLS# 6031436 $50,000

GREAT PRICE LAKE LOTS. Deep woods, seclusion and nice views from these Tom Lake lots. This is the desired west side of the lake with access from the Camp 20 Rd. Enjoy a peaceful lake property with good access. Great back roads to explore. Adjacent land available. MLS# 6030741, 6030742 $49,900 each

CONDOMINIUMS

WELCOME TO LAKE SUPERIOR. Warm & beautiful light-filled end unit Aspenwood Townhome. The 2-story walkout style leaves you with plenty of options to get outside and close to the Big Lake. This 2 bdrm, 3 bath home includes 98% of all furnishings & personal property. It is also part of a successful vacation rental pool. MLS# 6022175 $290,000

NORTHWOODS VACATION GET-AWAY. This recently remodeled and updated skiin/ski-out condo has 1 bdrm, 2 baths, fireplace, and great views of the ski hills, plus distant views of the Poplar River. Walk to the pool, playground, restaurants – everything you need! MLS# 6027382 $118,000

HOMES & CABINS

A GEM IN THE WOODS.

There is quality and detail at every turn in this magnificent 2 bdrm, 2 bath home hidden on 30 acres in the Grand Portage State Forest. Marble stairs and floors, loft, master bath with hot tub & sauna, soaring cathedral ceilings, and 2000 sq ft attached garage. Not your typical home in the woods, this is a rare gem waiting for someone who loves the outdoors, but wants the

HOMES & CABINS

SECLUDED COUNTRY HOME - RURAL GRAND MARAIS. This

COTTAGE HOME ACROSS FROM LAKE SUPERIOR. This cute home sits just across the highway from the big lake shoreline. The 2 bdrm, 1 bath cottage has wood floors, beamed ceilings, and a warm, comfortable feel.

included. MLS# 6027412 $159,900

GUNFLINT TRAIL ESCAPE.

MARKET, DELI, LIQUOR STORE – HOVLAND. A bustling business in a beautiful rural community on the North Shore. Bakery, deli, pizza, convenience store, and liquor store under one roof. Large seating area & outdoor patio. Expansion/home site possible!

MLS# 6023742 $329,900

BIG OPPORTUNITY, MANY POSSIBILITIES. Prime commercial location in Hovland, 1000 feet of Highway 61 frontage. Large commercial space with a small 2 bedroom home and 1 functioning rental cottage. Many new improvements and upgrades. Two more small cabins could be rented, and there's room for many more...or other possibilities. Large 2-car garage plus two sheds. MLS# 6026089 $284,900

PRIME RETAIL DOWNTOWN GRAND MARAIS. Main traffic location in the heart of down town. Located on Wisconsin St between Blue Water Cafe and Sivertson Gallery, with 25 ft street frontage and over 2300 sq ft each. Build up for a lake view –lots of possibilities!

MLS# 6029930, 6029951 $150,000 each

PRIME COMMERCIAL LOTS IN LUTSEN.Two acre-sized lots with Highway 61 frontage-road access and great visibility in downtown Lutsen. Nice creek borders the east property line, nice mature forest. Great location for a small gallery, retail or restaurant. A residential lot is available adjoining to the north.

• MLS# 6027064 $99,900

• MLS# 6030056 $89,900

LARGE TRACT WITH CREEK. This 319 acre parcel has ponds & creek frontage on the Flute Reed River. Has been in DNR management program. Great for hunting or homesteading. Access is by unimproved easement from the Camp 20 Road, near county maintenance. The land may be split - take your pick of "40's"! MLS# 6027384 $258,000 SUGARBUSH, BEAVER, TROUT. Remote 80 acres ,10 miles from Grand Marais with easy access. Surrounded by public land. 700’ of Durfee Creek frontage. MLS# 6024638 $149,000 TWENTY ACRES – GREAT LOCATION. Great larger parcel near Grand Marais with road in to the “top” of the property. Lake views, maple and mixed forest, small creek. County road access with power and broadband close by, borders public land on three sides. MLS# 6030517 $112,000 WOODS, WATER & SECLUSION.Three 40 acre lots with 600 to 1000 ft frontage on Mons Creek. Also includes deeded access to Lost Lake. Private and secluded. MLS# 6021356 $59,900 or MLS# 6021357 $69,900 or MLS# 6021358 $74,900.

NICE HOME SITE NEAR GRAND MARAIS. Nice elevation and views from this 6.75 acre lot off of County Rd 6 just minutes from town. Frontage on Little Devil Track River, with lowland and highlands. Nice forest and privacy for your home or cabin in the woods. MLS# 6031740 $54,900

RIVER/CREEK FRONTAGE

FLUTE REED RIVER HOME SITES These two heavily wooded parcels have the seclusion of 11-13 acres and about 330' frontage each on the trout stream Flute Reed River. Access is easy from frontage on a county road. Power and broadband are available. These lots are the perfect place for a retreat property or a year-round home. MLS# 6030884, 6030885 $49,900 each

SALE PENDING

DEEP WOODS – PADDLE THE CREEK. Really neat property on Murmur Creek. Navigate all the way to Caribou Lake. Good building sites and remote privacy on this 20 acre property. MLS# 6031403 $39,900

500’ ON MOHNS CREEK. Mixed topography of beautiful rolling land with many great build sites on 25 acres. Old growth cedar, spruce, pine and birch. Abuts state land. MLS# 6029353 $39,000

100+ ACRES NEAR GRAND MARAIS. Great location for a home or recreational property just minutes from Grand Marais. Rolling land with creek, borders thousands of acres of federal and state lands. Great investment and subdivision project. Power at road. Seller willing to subdivide MLS# 6032474 $277,900 LARGE WILDERNESS ACREAGE - LAKE ACCESS. This 80+ acre parcel includes 400 feet of shoreline on McFarland Lake. Building sites are located across the road on the hillside with potential lake views. Rugged property with high topography and old growth cedar and pine. Easy access to the BWCAW and Border Route Hiking Trail. MLS# 6024602 $179,000

SALE PENDING

MOUNTAIN TOP - WILDERNESS VIEWS. Fantastic vistas into the BWCA and surrounding rugged topography near McFarland Lake. Located at the end of the Arrowhead Trail with easy year-round access. The 122 acres has a high ridge and a “mountain top” for you to name. MLS# 6024599 $154,900 INCREASINGLY RARE, LARGE RECREATIONAL PARCEL. 190 arces fully surveyed. The perfect retreat. Has a rich variety of trees, ponds, high and low lands, some meadow land and wetlands. MLS# 6029820 $150,000

LARGE ACREAGE WITH WATER FEATURES. The headwaters of Irish Creek! Quality 160+ acres, 5 parcels sold grouped or separately. Many great features incl. old growth white pine, ponds, camping and building areas. MLS# 6030177 $149,500

BIG LAND NEAR LAKE SUPERIOR. Four 80 acre parcels located south of Schroeder off Highway 61 with shared access and approved septic sites. Mix of trees, gradual elevation, nice build sites and lake view.

MLS# 6027841, 6027843, 6027844, 6027845 $139,900 each FANTASTIC FIVE MILE ROCK. Great 7 acre property abuts Highway 61 at Five Mile Rock. Beautiful views of Lake Superior. Excellent build site and a 30 x 40 Morton building. Ready for your dreams! MLS# 6030238 $120,000

PROVEN GREAT HUNTING AREA - 80 ACRES. Prime hunting land in Schroeder. Rolling land with great wildlife habitat incl. stream, beaver dam with large pond, and a good mixture of trees and low vegetation. Older 2 bdrm cabin in a beautiful park like setting overlooking large beaver pond. MLS# 6029945 $115,000

LARGE ACREAGE NEAR TOM LAKE. 128 acres with good road access and an easy walk to the Tom Lake boat landing. Year-round road, power is possible here. The 3 forties may be split - take your pick. MLS# 6027383 $111,000

HUGE POND-HUGE PRIVACY. Large 45+ acre wooded parcel located across from Tom Lake. Huge pond/lake in the very center of the acreage MLS# 6029352 $99,000

LAND NEAR WILSON LAKE. A special piece of the Northwoods – 16 acres with deeded access to Wilson Lake! USA-owned forest is your backyard. Driveway, electric, and a small bunkhouse/shed are in place. MLS# 6028685 $80,000

LARGE LAND, MAPLES, LAKE ACCESS. This 67 acre parcel has high maple ridges, a pond, and an easement to walk to Tom Lake. Good seasonal road access, many nice building sites. A perfect escape property in an area with many trails to ride and forest to explore. MLS# 6030705 $69,900

LARGE LAND, POND, LAKE RIGHTS. Densely wooded 60 acre parcel with beaver ponds and access to Lost Lake. Good seasonal road access, many great building sites and southerly exposure. Lots of elbow room, privacy, and miles of forest roads to explore. MLS# 6029025 $64,900 GREAT LOCATION, QUALITY FOREST, BUILD HERE. These 10-acre parcels have a mature and mixed forest, southerly exposure, easy county road frontage and just minutes from Grand Marais. MLS# 6023274 $64,900, MLS# 6023275 $62,900, MLS# 6023276 $64,900 MAPLE HILL - HOME SITE. Heavily wooded 6.45 acre parcel with great privacy, county rd frontage, power and phone. MLS# 6023465 $64,500 RIDGES, PINES & VIEWS - ARROWHEAD TRAIL. Nice 20 acre parcel with high building sites and huge pines. The surround ing federal land leads directly into the BWCAW. MLS# 6024600 $59,900

RUSTICATE, RECREATE, RELAX. Hovland hideaway – 43 acres with new driveway to “base camp” with a nice camper trailer and shed. Trails have been cut throughout the property which adjoins State land. MLS# 2313223 $59,900 WOODED HOME SITE This 5+ acre parcel is only 1.5 miles from Grand Marais and ready for your country home. Mixed forest, with forest service land in the back for exploring or hunting. A driveway and culvert are already in place. MLS# 6026053 $55,000

STONE'S THROW LAKE SUPERIOR. This heavily wooded, private 2+ acre building site sits just across the highway from Lake Superior's shore with a view of the big lake. You can walk the beach or have a bonfire on the State shoreline. MLS# 6029899 $52,900

RUSTIC WOODED WONDERLAND. Beautiful 40 acres of maple forest with small rustic cabin bordering Judge Magney State Park. Enjoy the peaceful solitude of Aide Lake, rimmed by an open cedar grove just a short hike from the cabin into the park. MLS# 6025235 $52,000

PERFECT 5 ACRE HOME SITE. This private and secluded build site is just waiting for your custom plans! Only five miles from town with five acres of great woods bordering public land on two sides. MLS# 6028922 $51,500

30 ACRES - PANORAMIC VIEWS. Rare mountain top property with a 180 degree view of distant Lake Superior and the ridge to the north. Many trails in place with food plots for wildlife. MLS# 6020274 $49,500

BUILDING SITE OVERLOOKING MCFARLAND. This pine studded 7 acre property has easy walking access to the county beach on McFarland Lake. Nice elevated build site with easy county road access. MLS# 6024601 $43,000 WOODED ACREAGE – GM. Private 20 acre lot with hiking and ski trails, and abundant wildlife. A high building site offers seasonal views of Lake Superior. MLS# 2313173 $35,000

POWERS LAKE ROAD PARCEL. This is the beautiful ‘40’ that you have been waiting for. Easy access off Powers Lake Road with electricity and broadband. This is a fine opportunity for the person seeking a remote retreat with some modern amenities. MLS# 6027426 $44,900

5 ACRES NEAR CARIBOU LAKE. Gorgeous corner lot with colorful maples and majestic cedars. Plenty of privacy. Close to hiking trails and the Caribou Lake boat landing. Year round access with power! MLS# 2279179 $35,000 LAND FOR ESCAPE AND RECREATION. Remote yet accessible 20 acres near Judge Magney State Park. Good mix of trees, high building site, some distant Lake Superior views. MLS# 6025397 $34,900

GREAT LOCATION HOME SITE. Wooded home or cabin site near Devil Track Lake. The 1.72 acre lot has nice trees and maybe a view of the lake from a second story. The boat landing is just down the road, as are many other lakes and trails. MLS# 6029872 $29,900

GREAT LUTSEN LOT. Very quiet and private. Choice 2.31 lot at the end of the road, ready to build. Borders state land and priced to sell! MLS# 6031961 $29,900

9140

61

Spacious 3BR, 2BA home. Every bedroom has stunning views of Lake Superior. Large deck, timber frame bunkhouse; 300’ shore, 30x40 pole barn, 2 car garage and woodshed. MLS 6027781 $499,900

2884 W Hwy 61 - $279,900

Homes & Cabins

Land

W Hwy 61 Great location and development opportunities right off Hwy 61! 7.1A, zoned commercial and R-1. Additional R-1 acreage available.

MLS 2170380 $149,900

North Rd 20A, very private, year round access. Power, phone and broadband available at the road!!

MLS 6024552 $39,900

Coyote Ridge Three 5A, private, beautifully wooded parcels close to town. Babbling, gurgling creek for your boundary.

MLS 6021224 $45,000 - $65,000

25+A close to Grand Marais; healthy mix of trees with a very gently rolling topography. Approximately 800’ frontage on the Fall River.

MLS 6030910 $89,900

Rosebush Hill Lane Nicely wooded 5.40A with shared driveway only minutes from town. Identified septic sites and fully surveyed! Approx. 430’ of creek frontage. OWNER will consider a Contract for Deed!

MLS 6030911 $49,900

5.72A of nicely wooded land with gently rolling topography AND approx. 500’ frontage on the Rosebush Tributaries. OWNER will consider a Contract for Deed!

MLS 6030899 $39,900

78 Squint Lake Rd 5A surrounded on 2 sides by government land. Convenient mid-trail location.

MLS 6020283 $59,900

Railroad Drive 1.7A in the heart of Lutsen. Gently rolling topography, mature trees. Convenient location.

MLS 6023743 $39,900

Broadway Ave Wonderful location, oversize lot is open to many opportunities for development and use.

MLS 6031909 $48,000

Co Rd 67 2.24A, year round access, directly abuts State Land to the east. Fully surveyed and well-built private driveway. MLS 6029973 $39,900

Stonegate Rd 2A on public portion of desirable Stone Gate Road with lots of potential uses. Power, phone, and broadband are a stone’s throw away.

MLS 6029678 $18,400 PENDING

County Rd 7

Oversize lot on Co Rd 7 but inside the city. The obvious benefits of broadband and other services.

MLS 6028579 $58,000

Super private piece of land with 6.83A that directly abuts Federal land. There is a seasonal camper on the property that is perfect if you are only using a few times a year.

MLS 6031424 $59,900

Silver Fox Rd

Peaceful and quiet 5A close to town with easements onto Federal Land. MLS 6025690 $25,900

Camp 20 Rd

28A located off of the Camp 20 Rd. Surveyed, septic sites have been identified and there is even a wetlands delineation! MLS 6027375 $27,900 SOLD

County Rd 48

2 lots 5-7A, 5+ and 7+A lots at a great country location just minutes from town. Recreation trails close by.

MLS 6030629 $45,000 - $47,500

Quist Rd

Fantastic 5A parcel close to town but private. Driveway already stubbed in, potential Lake Superior views.

MLS 6030846 $49,000

Wildwood Acres

5 parcels in Wildwood Acres! .9A to 1.85A. Nicely wooded and private. Residential neighborhood.

MLS 6031563 $20,000 - $35,000

Boulder Point Rd

3.55A in Lutsen off the Ski Hill Rd. Abuts State Scenic and Natural area providing hundreds of acres of untouched land.

MLS 6031787 $59,900

2965 E Hwy 61

Conveniently located near public access to Lake Superior, Kadunce Wayside, Kadunce River, Superior Hiking Trail and more. MLS 6031864 $15,900 SOLD

Victory Lane

20A with great building sites overlook a beautiful beaver pond and some great building sites overlooking the pond.

MLS 6032536 $25,000 NEW

Grand Marais Condo
Marais.

Inland Lake Homes

Large Acreage

MLS 2164180

Tom Lake Private 34+A and 600’ of shore. Property is surveyed and septic sites are identified. Will consider owner financing to a qualified buyer.

MLS 6028673 $149,900

Year round access with 171’ shore. Driveway in place and a cleared building site, together with some stairs to the lake.

MLS 6032510 $53,900 NEW

Kemo Lake

One of only 4 lots on south shore. Private 2.34A with 200’ frontage on excellent trout lake!

MLS 6031924 $139,900

Two Island 5+ A of

DESIGN AND ELEGANCE ON DEERYARD LAKE, LUTSEN. Lindal Cedar Home, dramatic stone fireplace set amongst posts & beams of Douglas Fir. Designer kitchen, sunroom, secluded master bedroom and bath with soaker tub. Wood fired oven, Timberframe Sauna, Woodshop and a large garage. End of the Road 4.48 acres, 175’ of frontage, adjacent public land buffers and beckons.

AT LUTSEN RESORT! Enjoy all that the historic Lutsen Lodge offers…a sandy beach, a cool River, Swimming pool, spa, FABULOUS dining…but enjoy it in STYLE at the Cliffhouse overlooking the historic lodge. Newer construction, Big views, Contemporary Design. Total Comfort. Nice rental income to offset expenses. MLS#6021422 $399,000 REDUCED!

Maple Leaf Lane off Hwy 1 near Finland. It’s a quiet getaway cabin, rustic living. Super hunting spot, man cave cabin! MLS# 6030497 $59,900

Whitetail Ridge Overlooking Lake Superior! Just off Highway 1, Enjoy Sprawling Lake and Ridgeline views and Rugged Terrain! Yr Round Access, Electric. MLS# 6024856 $110,000

30 acres Wilderness, Borders lands next to Little Manitou River!

MLS#2309327 $129,000

Rock Road in Silver Bay area! Great build site with creek frontage! MLS#2308638 $45,000 REDUCED!

Lakeshore on Ninemile Lake at the Village, common water and septic, build ready, borderscommon land!

MLS#2309096 $39,000 REDUCED!

Marks Drive Build Ready parcel in Silver Bay. City Utilities, Super location for a nice family home! Great neighborhood MLS#6031871 $22,000

10 Ac Parcels of Maples! Rolling Terrain of Mature Maples to a Sweet Building site Perched Over a Mixed Boreal Forest. Year Round Access and Electric at Road!

MLS#2024250 $49,900 REDUCED!

DRAMATIC Mountain Top Views, Rolling Hills, Maple Forests fading in to Spruce and Pine and year round access. FROM $70,000 MLS#2090628

87 High Ridge Dr-Lot 3 Sugarloaf Retreats! Driveway in, cleared build site, just plan your North Shore home to take advantage of the Awesome Ridgeline Views! MLS#6030129 $59,000

Sawbill Trail Tofte Lake Superior Views, Mature Spruce forest with driveway and well in place! MLS#6030129 $99,900

Welcome In the New Year with a Visit Up North!

LeVeaux Mountain, Super Views and Wildlife Ponds!

MLS#2220050 $69,000

Just Up the Sawbill Trail Grab your little piece of the Northwoods, rolling terrain and small community feel with year round access, great build sites!

MLS#2070509 Prices from $24,900!!

Wowser Lake Superior views on Overlook Tr!

MLS#2296509 $79,900

Maples with lots of Elbow Room, Year Round access and nice location between Cross River in Schroeder and Finland!

MLS#6028422 $59,000

Holy Smokes! End of the Road bordering County land, Tofte. HUGE value with 2 lots sold for the price of one!

MLS#6028792 $49,900 PENDING!

1046 Cramer Rd-Schroeder-40 ac with creek and tons of Maples! OMG it’s a beautiful parcel with high elevations and ravine like creek. Driveway is in! MLS#6028837 $98,000

BIG TIME VIEWS of Lake Superior-Tofte, Excellent value at Johannes Toftey

MLS#6029322 $68,500

Overlook at LeVeaux Mountain-Tofte!

Serene Woodsy setting with Lake Views!

MLS#6029324 $49,000

Maples Galore, Acreage! Schroeder Location with Yr Round Access and Electric!

MLS#6029593 $99,000

Nice large parcel #19 at Sugarloaf Retreats, Boreal Forest land with yr rd access/electric.

MLS#6031140 $44,400

LeVeaux Creek Runs Through this Sweet Build Site, minutes to Lutsen Ski Resort! Lake Views! MLS#6031876 $65,000

Mature Spruce and BIG Lake Views! Walk to Blue Fin Bay, drilled well in place!

MLS#2272174

$49,900

Nice parcel bordering USFS land, driveway roughed in, access to Tait Lk!

MLS#6023412 $35,000

Woodland Foothills Build Ready lots, Shared Water & Community Septic from MLS#2309328+ FROM $39,000

Heartland of Lutsen, 80 ac at the Foothills of Ski Hill ridge, near downtown Lutsen!

MLS#2312987 $119,000

Over 8 ac of Wilderness on Turnagain Trail in Lutsen!

MLS#2216560 $45,000

Prime Build Site(s) just off theCaribou at Jonvick Creek!

MLS#2240533 $49,000

Gorgeous 5 acre parcels in the Heart of Lutsen paved Caribou Trail locale bordering USFS lands!

MLS#2174799 From $54,900 - $77,500

Creek Build Site just off the Caribou Trail at Jonvick Creek! Rare and Unique Build site!

MLS#2289515 $57,500

30 acres of Prime Wilderness Land with year round access and electric at street with Views of Lutsen’s famed Clara Lake!

MLS#2080599 $137,500

Maple Leaf Trail at Jonvick, Maples Galore! Nice elevated build site. Yr Round access, electric.

MLS#6024972 $49,000

Ridgetop Views Overlooking Caribou Lake! Tuck your home in to the Maple hillside in Lutsen, year round access. Super Location! MLS#6028429 $56,500

Tait Lake area, Legend Trail parcel bordering USFS lands with views of Wills and Williams Lake!

MLS#6028619 $67,500

Wilderness Lutsen location at Tait Lake- backlot with Driveway in place! Yr Round and Electric

MLS#6029115 $37,500

Ridgetop 5+ ac in Lutsen, Ski Hill and Lake Superior Views! Fab Location, Boreal Forest with Maples! MLS#603266 $49,900

Ski Hill Road lands, Boreal Lane is your Key To Mountain Top Living! 5 ac lots from MLS#6029557+ $59,000 TO $99,000

20 Acres near Pike Lake, minutes to the new Boat Landing! Driveway is in place, nice shed. Panoramic Wilderness!

MLS#6028569 $69,000

Grand Marais Meadows on County Rd 7, Gorgeous Setting, Super location!

MLS#6029849+ $65,000

NEW! 60 Ac East of Grand Marais with the Superior Hiking Trail thru leading to Lake Superior Beach!

MLS#6031588 $89,900

NEW! Two Awesome City Lots, Great East 5th Street location.

MLS#6031883 $54,900, MLS #6031882 $59,900

DREAMY LAKE SUPERIOR . land and lakeshore! Several acres of privacy and way more than 200 ft of Level Access Lake Superior shoreline in Schroeder, near Sugarloaf Cove Naturalist Area! MLS#2090420 $275,000 OLD GROWTH WHITE PINES ON TAIT LAKE IN LUTSEN! Driveway, garage in place, Spectacular Build Site, good bang for the Buck in Lutsen! MLS#6029117 $199,900 REDUCED!

QUIET CONTEMPLATION ON LAKE

SUPERIOR IN LUTSEN! Creek runs along East Border, with 200+ ft waterfront. Excellent Views, Wilderness Setting. MLS#6028455 $269,900 REDUCED!

LUTSEN LAKE SUPERIOR CASCADE

BEACH RD LAND! Very accessible, build site close to the water, listen to the waves of Lake Superior lapping the rocky shoreline! Gorgeous morning sunrises over the Big Lake, a must see! MLS#2308906 $299,000

SWEET PARCEL ON SWALLOW

LAKE in Isabella area! 220 ft of shoreline, 2.5 ac!

MLS#2300576 $64,900

NEW! OVER 400 FT OF ACCESSIBLE

SHORELINE with beach on Lake Superior, Lutsen’s Rollins Creek Road! MLS#6031579 $499,900

NEW! KAYAKERS GETAWAY ON TOM

LAKE! Sloping Wilderness Shoreline, Water Access Only!

MLS#6032237 $124,900

SELLER SAYS SHOW ME AN OFFER!!

200 ft of Deep Rocky shoreline on Lutsen’s Fabulous Clara Lake! MLS#1600179 $199,000

LAKESHORE 10+ ACRES BORDERING SUPERIOR NATIONAL FOREST! in Lutsen, year round access with over 10 acres and 200 feet of shoreline! Hilltop building site with cleared path thru cedar forest to Christine Lake, a super wilderness lake great for paddling your days away!

MLS#6023288 $99,900

END OF THE ROAD SPECTACULAR

280 ft of cliff shoreline with unobstructed Views across Lake Superior! Little Marais area, Build ready, driveway already in place! MLS#2313255 $235,000 REDUCED!

400 FT OF STUNNING LAKE SUPERIOR

SHORELINE minute’s to the Cross River in Schroeder! Rolling terrain, nice Evergreen stand giving nice buffer from ANY highway noise. Worth the walk through the wilderness to see the AMAZING 400 ft of sprawling ledge rock shoreline!! MLS#2313305 $440,000

MLS#6031145

LOVELY DEERYARD LAKE PARCEL! Lutsen’s Secret Treasure, Deeryard is a peaceful respite from the busy life outside the Northwoods. Maple hillside cascades in to the clear waters!

MLS#6027527 $189,900

PLENTY OF ELBOW ROOM ON LAKE SUPERIOR!

Nearly 800 ft of shoreline and 11 ac. of rolling terrain, with signs of the past logging roads and Spruce planted forests providing a sweet buffer from all of those pesky worries of the Real World! Driveway installed in to the mid-section of the land to allow you to explore which building site best fits your desires!

MLS#2309271 $799,000

PIKE LAKE SHORELINE, PRIME rocky s horeline, dropping off to nice depth! Awesome mixed boreal forest, high ground for build site. South facing, year round access, electric. Build your dream home, ask for Lot 6 Willard Lane!
$199,900

Welcome to Golden Eagle Lodge, a family oriented, year-round resort located on the Gunflint Trail of Northeastern Minnesota, only 30 miles north of Grand Marias. As the only residents on Flour Lake, and nestled in within the 3 million acres of the Superior National Forest, you can look forward to the quiet and solitude offered only from a true wilderness setting.

We offer complete skiing and snowshoe rentals for all ages, a heated ski waxing room, a trail lit 7 days a week, and a private use sauna. All our modern housekeeping cabins have a fireplace, either wood, gas, or electric.

We know much time, effort, and expense is invested in a vacation. We would be honored if you considered us as your vacation destination. We go out of our way to ensure every aspect of your visit will convince you to come back and see us again. You won’t be disappointed!

Golden Eagle Lodge Nordic Ski Center is world class, nationally-known, and silent sports only. We are located on the Central Gunflint Ski Trail System, a well-marked network of more than 70km of beautifully groomed trails that begin right from your cabin’s doorstep. This trail system was built specifically for cross-country skiing and is tracked for both traditional and skate skiers alike. All ski trail passes are offered at no charge to our cabin guests!

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