Whether you are drawn to Lake Superior, the canoe country, the hiking trails, the fishing lakes or all of the above, you read Northern Wilds because you love this place. And, if you’re like most of us, you enjoy sharing your special spots (well, maybe not your favorite fishing holes) with others. Now, we’d like you to help choose the Best of the Northern Wilds to share with our readers.
We’re excited to introduce the Best of the Northern Wilds Reader’s Choice Awards. You’ll find the Official Ballot on Page 39, or you can vote online at our website, www.NorthernWilds. com. Enter your picks for the best park, scenic overlook, waterfall, canoe route, fall color trip and more. If you dare, you can even name your favorite fishing hole! However, you don’t have to vote in every category to send in the ballot
About our cover:
Grand Marais photographer Stephan Hoglund captured this biking image at the 2011 Lutsen 99er.
Everyone who fills out an official ballot has a chance to win $500 in class credits at the North House Folk School in Grand Marais, a $50 gift certificate to your favorite outdoor store and other great prizes. We’ll continue adding more prizes during the summer, so
become our friend on Facebook or bookmark our website to keep posted on prize offerings. The voting for the 2012 Reader’s Choice Adventure Awards goes through September 30 so our summer and fall readers have an opportunity to cast a ballot.
Sit back with this issue and start thinking. If you were introducing someone to the North Shore and the canoe country for the first time, where would you take them? What’s on your “don’t miss” list? What places or events draw you back time after time? Do wild blueberries or walleyes make your mouth water? When autumn foliage is in its full glory, where do you go for a drive? Better yet, get out this summer and enjoy what the Northern Wilds has to offer. Attend a festival, visit a lighthouse, stand up and paddle or just go fish. You can do it all in the Northern Wilds. So have fun and don’t forget to vote for your wild favorites.
—Shawn Perich and Amber Pratt
Shawn Perich, Editor • editor@northernwilds.com
Elle Andra-Warner, Lee Boyt, Gord Ellis, Joan Farnam, Michael Furtman, Bryan Hansel, Mike Hillman, Stephan Hoglund, Deane Morrison, Beth Waterhouse
Boaters Beware:
DNR Warns of Crackdown
Anglers and boaters can expect stepped-up patrols and citations for violating the state’s aquatic invasive species (AIS) laws. Enforcement checkpoints will be conducted near public waters. Minnesota law prohibits the possession or transport of any AIS. Conservation officers and peace officers may stop and inspect motorists pulling boats or marine equipment upon a “reasonable belief” that AIS are present. AIS include zebra mussels, Eurasian watermilfoil and spiny waterfleas. AIS penalties range from $50 to $1,000.
Anglers and boaters are required to:
• before leaving any water access.
Drain bait buckets, bilges and live wells
Remove aquatic plants from boats and
• trailers to prevent the spread of invasive species.
Pull the plug on their boat, and drain all water
• when leaving all waters of the state; drain plugs must remain out while transporting water-related equipment on roadways.
Live
From Ely
Ely-area bears were seen worldwide in May during a live broadcast of the British Broadcasting Corporation’s “Planet Earth Live” series. The program features various animals and their young across the world and airs as 24/7 Wild on the National Geographic Wild channel. Stars of the Ely episode were black bears studied by Dr. Lynn Rogers and the North American Bear Center, including the families of research bears Lily, Jewel and Juliet. For more information, visit the North American Bear Center or its website www.bear.org.
Highway 1 Detour
Motorists will encounter a detour on Highway 1 south of Ely until mid-August. Highway 1 will be closed between Forest Road 424/New Tomahawk Road and just north of Forest Road 553. Five miles of the highway will be reconstructed, with an expected completion by November. The new project design reduces the severity of bumps and dips in the road, softens existing tight curves, adds paved shoulders and
On Top of
reduces the number of hazardous roadside obstacles. The finished highway will retain the unique, picturesque character of Highway 1. The detour route will be regularly graded and maintained. Motorists will be required to follow the posted detour. For updated travel information on all Minnesota roads, call 511 or click on www.511mn.org.
Mount Josephine
State and tribal officials recently celebrated the completion of an improved wayside vista on Mount Josephine in Grand Portage. The wayside is a popular stopping point for North Shore travelers. A new observation deck jutting out from a cliff offers spectacular views of Lake Superior and the Susie islands, with Isle Royale in the distance. including an impressive observation deck jutting out from the cliff. Other improvements include a picnic table area and restroom facilities. Amenities at the site are accessible for visitors of all abilities.
Reserve State Park Campsites
You can reserve Minnesota state park campsites and lodging online up to one year in advance. The new online reservation website features calendars showing available sites at a park for three weeks at a time as well as campground maps showing proximity of campsites to shoreline, restrooms, and other amenities. Advanced search options allow prospective visitors to enter specific desired criteria and see their options at a glance.
Reservations can be made online at mndnr.gov/reservations or by calling 866-857-2757 (TTY 952-936-4008) from
8 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily (except holidays). Up to 30 percent of the campsites at Minnesota state parks cannot be reserved in advance and are available on a first-come, first-served basis.
Better Biking
Last summer, the Superior Cycling Association added 1.8 miles of singletrack on Britton Peak near Tofte (Sugarbush trail system) and 1.5 miles at Pincushion Mountain near Grand Marais. This summer they plan to add 3.5 miles or more to Britton Peak and 4-6 miles at Pincushion.
New Forest Supervisor
Brenda Halter is the new Superior National Forest supervisor, replacing Jim Sanders, who retired. Halter brings a wealth of experience acquired over her 18 years with the U.S. Forest Service working as a hydrologist and forest planner. She has a Master’s degree in biology and was a member of the joint Forest Plan Revision team for the Chippewa and Superior National Forests. She most recently led the development of a new Final Planning Rule
for America’s 193-million acre National Forest System
Halter is married with four children and six, soon to be seven, grandchildren; many of whom still live in Minnesota. Her husband, Al Williamson, also works for the Forest Service as the Assistant National Wildlife Program Leader. Leaving the forest are Mark Van Every, district ranger on the Kawishiwi Ranger District, and Tim Sexton, district ranger on the LaCroix Ranger District.
Wild Events Calendar
MAY 31JUNE 3
Boreal Birding and Northern Landscapes Fesitval
North House Folk School, Grand Marais www.northhouse.org
JUNE 9, SATURDAY
Classic Car Show
Grand Marais 10 a.m.-2 p.m. www.grandmaraismn.com
Split Rock Lighthouse Open House
Split Rock Lighthouse Historic Site www.twoharborschamber.com
Wooden Boat Show and Summer Solstice Festival North House Folk School Grand Marais www.northhouse.org
Lutsen 99er Bike Race
Lutsen www.lutsen99er.com
JUNE 23, SATURDAY
World's Longest ATV Parade Silver Bay www.atvparade.org
JUNE 2529
Wolf Ridge Day Camp www.wolf-ridge.org
JUNE 27, WEDNESDAY
Silver Bay Women’s Invitational Golf Tournament Silver Bay www.silverbaygolf.com
JUNE 29JULY 1
Squatchberry Literary Festival Geraldton, Ont. www.squatchberryfesitval.ca
JULY 1, SUNDAY
Canada Day Street Fair
Red Rock, Ont. www.RedRockTownship.com
JULY 4, WEDNESDAY
Fireman’s Races
Two Harbors www.TwoHarborsChamber.com
Tofte Trek
Tofte 9 a.m. www.toftetrek.com
JULY 58
Two Harbors Heritage Days
Two Harbors Historic Waterfront www.thHeritageDays.com
JULY 68
Thunder Bay Blues Festival Thunder Bay www.tbayblues.ca
JULY 78
Anishnawbe Keeshigan Fort William Historical Park Thunder Bay, Ont. www.fwhp.ca
JULY 1315
Silver Bay-Beaver Bay Days Silver Bay/Beaver Bay www.silverbay.com
JULY 14
Bay to Bay 10K Road and Trail Race Silver Bay 8:45 a.m. www.silverbay.com
JULY 1415
Grand Marais Arts Festival Grand Marais www.grandmaraisartcolony.org
JULY 2021
Thunder Bay Dragon Boat Race Festival Boulevard Lake ,Thunder Bay www.paddlesport.org
JULY 2122
Salmon Classic Silver Bay Marina www.silverbay.com
JULY 2729
Blueberry Arts Festival Ely www.ely.org
North Shore Dragon Boat Festival Grand Marais www.northshoredragonboat.com
JULY 2829
Battle for Fort William Fort William Historical Park. Thunder Bay, Ont. www.fwhp.ca
AUG. 25
Grand Marais Fisherman’s Picnic Grand Marais www.gmlions.com
AUG. 36
Blueberry Blast Nipigon, Ont. www.nipigon.net
AUG 1011
Tori Celebration and Fall Music Festival Finland www.heartof thenorthshore.com
AUG 1012
Live From the Rock Folk Festival Red Rock, Ont. www.livefromtherock.com
Paju Mtn. Run Red Rock, Ont. www.redrocktownship.com
AUG. 1718
Epic Adventures
Mountain Bike Festival Nipigon, Ont. www.epicmtbfestival.com
AUG. 18
Gitchi Gami Bike Ride Gooseberry State Park www.ggta.org
AUG. 2425
Lake Superior Dragon Boat Festival Duluth www.lakesuperiordragons.com
SEPT. 2
Sawtooth Challenge Bike Race Grand Marais www.sawtoothchallenge.org
SEPT. 730
Plein Air Grand Marais Grand Marais www.grandmaraisartcolony.com
SEPT. 89
Radio Waves Music Festival Grand Marais www.wtip.org
SEPT. 1316
Mountain Stage and Unplugged IX: The Northern Harvest Grand Marais www.northhouse.org
SEPT. 2122
Oktoberfest Duluth www.oktoberfestduluth.com
SEPT. 2324
Duluth Airshow Duluth www.duluthairshow.com
Boreal Birding & Northern Landscapes Festival, May 31-June 3
Paul Huttner, Minnesota Public Radio meteorologist, will be the featured speaker at North House Folk School’s Boreal Birding and Northern Landscapes Festival, May 31-June 3. The festival includes coursework, presentations, bird watching opportunities, hikes and more. North House will screen a film about Aldo Leopold at 7 p.m. May 31. At 6 p.m. Friday, June 1, Betsy Bowen will give a presentation at Sivertson Gallery on the challenges of painting raptors and owls for Laura Erickson’s books, and Huttner will speak about our changing climate at North House at 7 p.m. June 2. For more information about all the events and opportunities during the weekend, visit www.northhouse.org
Nipigon’s Feast of Champions, June 2
Got chivalry? Nipigon will be celebrating the start of summer with a “Feast of Champions”--a themed timewarp meal fit for kings and queens on June 2 at the Nipigon Community Centre. The all-ages event spon-
PAJU MOUNTAIN RUN
Wooden Boat Show & Summer Solstice Festival, June 22-24
One of the premier festivals of the summer, the Wooden Boat Show & Summer Solstice Festival at North House Folk School is June 22-24 this year. The festival includes a wooden boat display, a Boats-To-Tools Auction, craft demonstrations, coursework, a contra dance, food and more. The fabulous Good Harbor Hill Players will put on their annual Summer Solstice Pageant at 8 p.m. Saturday. Boat builder and author Douglas Brooks is the featured speaker this year. His interest is Japanese boat building and he has apprenticed with five boat builders in Japan. For more info about the festival, visit www.northhouse.org.
sored by the Nipigon Rotary Club and the Township of Nipigon—with the expert assistance of the Thunder Bay branch of the Society for Creative Anachronism— will feature costumes, food, entertainment, crafts and games for kids. Costumes are encouraged but not required. Proceeds support programs like food banks, school breakfast programs, and various funds for the local hospital. Tickets now on sale. For more information, contact Elvie Choiselat at 807-887-2718.
Grandma’s Marathon, June 15-16
Grandma’s Marathon is the biggest running event in northern Minnesota with 10,000 people competing in the 26.5-mile marathon from Two Harbors to Duluth, 6,300 participants in the Gary Bjorklund Half-Marathon and 1,900 competing in the William A. Irvin 5K. New this year: the men’s and women’s half-marathon na-
Saturday, June 23
Silver Bay, MN
Ride Into History
33rd Tofte Trek, July 4
The Tofte Trek 10K Wilderness Run/Walk is the ultimate mud race, with runners starting out at the Birch Grove Community Center and running up to the Superior Hiking Trail and down again through woods, fields and muddy trails. There are races for youngsters, too, before the main race starts at 9 a.m. Registration for this fun event is open now, and the first 200 people who register get a Tofte Trek T-shirt. For more info, visit www.toftetrek.com
tional championships, which will be run along the half-marathon course at the same time. Grandma’s Marathon is always a big party in Duluth as thousands converge on the city for the races, live music, speakers and more. For more info, maps of the course and spectator information, visit www.grandmasmarathon.com.
Lutsen 99er, June 22-24
The Midwest’s premier ultra-mountain bike race, the Lutsen 99er, is in its second year and is scheduled for June 23. A shorter, 39-mile course is available in addition to the 99-mile course for which the event is named. The race leads mountain bikers through the beauty of Minnesota’s North Shore—from the Lake Superior shoreline to the top of the Sawtooth Mountains. The courses are tough and challenging. There are events planned for the entire weekend, including a pre-race pasta feed and post-race party with live music. For more info and to register, visit www.lutsen99er.com.
Writers Gather in Geraldton, June 29-July 1
The Squatchberry Literary Festival in Geraldton is June 29-July 1 and coincides the town’s 75th Anniversary. Seventeen published writers from Greenstone and Thunder Bay will offer readings of their works and will lead workshops and panel discussions. The Festival kickoff features a presentation by
award-winning Charles Wilkins, whose recent adventure of rowing across the Atlantic Ocean will soon be narrated in a new book. At the Festival banquet, Arthur Black, syndicated columnist, will be guest speaker. His literary awards include three Stephen Leacock Medals for Humour. Registration forms are available at www. SquatchberryFestival.ca.
Two Harbors Heritage Days, July 5-8
This annual festival features four days of fun, including a parade, street dances, helicopter rides, an arts & crafts fair, food vendors, a beauty contest, a classic car tour, fireworks and lots of live music on two stages. Bands and musicians include Common Ground, Chip Sandstrom, Paul Imholte, Terri Mattila, Two Harbors Ukulele Group, Kenny King and the Dave Herzog Island Steel Drums, to mention a few. For more info and the complete schedule, visit www.thheritagedays.com.
Thunder Bay Blues Festival, July 6-8
Three days of top blues players will be featured at the 11th annual Thunder Bay Blues Festival in Marina Park in Thunder Bay, July 6-8. Headliners this year include Jonny Lang, (Friday night), the Tedeschi Trucks Band (Saturday) and .39 Special, Sunday. Other top blues players include Big Walter Smith, Joe Louis Walker, the Royal Southern Brotherhood, Scrapomatic and Sonny Landreth, to name a few. The venue is spectacular, overlooking the Sleeping Giant and features a great variety of food vendors along with the blues. For tickets and more info, visit www.tbayblues.ca.
Silver Bay-Beaver Bay Days, July 13-15
Street dances, a mud run, North Shore Mining Tours, a family golf tournament and more featured during the Silver Bay-Beaver Bay Days, July 13-15. A wide variety of events are held in both communities, culminating in a parade in Silver Bay at 1 p.m. on Sunday, July 15. There‘s live music, too, including a concert by Nathan Herfindahl at Silver Bay’s William Kelley High School Auditorium on Friday night. A kid’s carnival, petting zoo and a library book sale are also on tap for the three-day event. To see the schedule, visit www. silverbay.com.
Grand Marais Arts Festival, July 14-15
The 22nd annual Grand Marais Arts Festival in July 14-15 this year and will feature work by more than 80 artists displaying their work under white tents in downtown Grand Marais. The event kicks off with a “Meet & Greet Soiree” for artists and the public to
World’s Longest ATV Parade June 23, Silver Bay
Minnesota ATV enthusiasts want their record back. In 2009, ATV riders gathered in Silver Bay to set the World Record for the longest ATV parade with 1,683. Then a group in Utah beat them with 1,870 ATVs. So the All Terrain Vehicle Association of Minnesota (ATVAM) is returning to Silver Bay for another parade. Whether or not they gather enough riders for a new record (and it is likely they will), ATVers will have a good time in a friendly community. For info, go to www. atvparade.org.
meet at Sivertson Gallery for talk and refreshments on Friday, July 13, from 7-9 p.m. The Arts Festival is from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday and 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday.
Silver Bay Salmon Classic, July 21-22
The 12th annual Silver Bay Salmon Classic is July 2122 this year and is based out of the Silver Bay Marina. There are three contest divisions: Coho Salmon, King Salmon and Lake Trout, with five places recognized in each division. Winners will be announced July 22. For more info and to register, visit www.silverbay.com
Blueberry Art Festival, July 27-29
More than 300 exhibitors will participate in the Blueberry Art Festival in Ely, July 27-29. The three-day event in Whiteside Park features an incredible array of original art, handcrafted items and ethnic foods, plus a wide variety of live music. Congo Se Menne performs from 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. on Saturday and the Barish Brothers are on-stage from 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. Sunday, to name a few. Pancake breakfasts are served both Saturday and Sunday mornings, and blueberry pies, tarts, muffins and more are stars of the menu over the weekend. Visit www.Ely.org
Grand Marais
Fisherman’s Picnic, Aug. 2-5
During the Fisherman’s Picnic, Aug. 2-5, Grand Marais is filled with visitors, vendors, “crazy days sales” and much more. The Grand Marais Lions Club, which sponsors the event, holds a raffle, which includes a grand prize of $10,000 and lots of other prizes. The Big Fish contest at Buck’s Hardware Hank offers prizes in six fish species categories. And not to forget—the Lions Club serves up hand-breaded, deep-fried Lake Superior herring Fishburgers. See www.gmlions.com.
North Shore Dragon Boat Festival, July 27-29
The North Shore Dragon Boat Festival in Grand Marais July 27-29, is a paddling adventure on the harbor with more than 20 teams participating. The festival starts on Friday, July 27, with the Parade of Teams and the Opening Ceremony at 7 p.m., followed by a street dance with The Splinters. Saturday morning kicks off with a pancake breakfast at 7 a.m. Races start at 9 a.m. with the awards ceremony at 5 p.m. in Harbor Park. For more information and to register and/or paddle on a boat, visit www.northshoredragonboat.com.
Plan Now for Paju Mtn. Run, Aug. 11
Red Rock’s 30th annual Paju Mountain Run will be held Aug. 11 in conjunction with the Live From the Rock Folk Festival. The 11.2K race climbs 715 feet from the town to the top of Paju Mountain. There are competative and noncompetative races, with several age divisions. Register by July 24 to be entered in an early bird drawing for folk festival passes at www. RedRockTownship.com.
1. Boulevard Lake, Thunder Bay
Destination beach with playground, lifeguards, tennis courts, putt-putt golf, paddleboat rentals, paved trails and a view of the Sleeping Giant. Hosts the annual Thunder Bay Dragon Boat Festival.
2. Mink Lake, Grand Marais
Head up the Gunflint Trail about 12 miles. Turn right at the Trout Lake Resort sign and proceed down the dirt road. Two miles in lies Mink Lake and its popular swimming beach.
3. Agate Bay, Two Harbors
Broad, rocky beach known for its agate picking potential. Wear sandals or water shoes for maximum foot comfort. Nearby Burlington Bay has a sand beach. Walk the Sonju Harbor Trail to see the Two Harbors Light Station.
4. Park Point, Duluth
Miles of sand and every beach amenity imaginable, from picnic tables and a playground to restrooms, concessions, grills, lifeguards and a volleyball court.
CAUTION
Northern rivers often have strong currents, even if they appear placid. Stick to designated swimming beaches to keep your vacation safe. Also, be aware that Lake Superior can generate rip currents that pull you away from shore. If caught in such a current, swim across it, parallel to the shore, until you are free of the fast-moving water.
Picking the North Shore’s Best Mushroom
By Shawn Perich
Chanterelles are a powerful distraction. In July, I spend hours walking through the woods and staring at the ground, oblivious to mosquitoes and horsefl ies, in search of the butter-yellow mushrooms. And I fi nd what I seek. Nearly every night we have butter-sautéed chanterelles for supper. And yes, they are that good.
Along the North Shore, chanterelles appear in July and provide good pickings for a few weeks. In a wet year, you may fi nd edible chanterelles into September, although it is more common for picking to end during August. Chanterelles are easy to identify, easy to fi nd, abundant and, best of all, delicious.
I watch for chanterelles after a good rain. They consistently appear in a couple places in my yard and provide a convenient barometer for local picking. Out in the woods, I fi nd chanterelles in the same places year after year. Since a mushroom is the fruiting body of an unseen fungus, perhaps they are produced annually, like apples. That said, when out picking I leave a few mushrooms to spread their spores. Overenthusiastic picking of a patch seems to
result in far fewer chanterelles the following year.
In my experience, chanterelles are found in shady forest uplands, often beneath large leaf aster, a common ground cover. Where I pick them, the tree cover is mature aspen mixed with balsam, though I have also found mushrooms growing on bare, needle-strewn ground in balsam thickets and beneath mature birch trees.
When searching for mushrooms, I walk slowly along forest paths and use my foot to sweep aside aster leaves to see what is beneath them. Chanterelles are easy to spot, because their yellow-burnished orange coloration is a bright contrast the greens and browns dominating the forest floor. If you fi nd one, you’ll certainly fi nd a few more. They nearly always grow
in clusters or fairy rings. In fact, growing in clusters is a trait you can use to identify them.
Chanterelles are easy to identify. In addition to their distinctive yellow color, they are trumpetshaped. Their gills fl are up along the stem like fluted columns. They also have a pleasant odor, which some folks liken to apricot. If you are careful and use a good guide book or, better yet, go out with an experienced picker, you’ll discover nothing else really looks and feels like a chanterelle.
When picking mushrooms, I prefer to put them in a small wicker basket, though any bowl or bucket will do. To pick, I grasp the stem near the ground
They grow in clusters or fairy rings [LEFT] and often sprout beneath large leaf aster [CENTER]. Chanterelles are easy to identify by their yellow color, trumpet shape and fluted gills. Note how the gills originate from the stem. Most mushrooms have a ring around the stem where the gills begin. Chanterelles do not [BELOW].
and break it off. This gives me the whole mushroom with a bit of dirt on the butt of the stem. Some pickers use a knife to cut off the mushrooms, but I fi nd they are easier to pick by hand. Typically three or four clusters of mushrooms yield enough for a meal. At home, I clean the mushrooms using a moist paper towel and a paring knife. Wipe off any dirt on the cap or stem with the paper towel, and then tap the cap with your fi ngertip to knock bits of dirt out of the gills. I use the knife to cut off the butt of the stem. Large mushrooms are sliced lengthwise for cooking. I also check to make sure the stems are solid— some ripe chanterelles contain small worms that hollow out the stems. To avoid worms, try to pick small, young mushrooms rather than the large, fully ripe chanterelles. Worm infested mushrooms should be thrown out.
We prefer to eat fresh mushrooms. A couple of years ago, we tried drying them with a dehydrator, but were unsatisfied with the taste. I recently talked to someone who said canned chanterelles are excellent, but we haven’t tried that method. You can store fresh chanterelles in the refrigerator for a week or two.
Our method of cooking chanterelles is pretty simple: we sauté them in melted butter. Vikki fi rst cooks them for a few minutes to reduce their moisture content and then adds butter. Some folks I know add garlic to the butter. Sautéed chanterelles, to my palate, are better than morels, though I like both very much. Chanterelles will compliment just about any meal, but they are especially tasty with chicken.
Fresh mushrooms [TOP] must be cleaned. [CENTER] Use a moist paper towel to wipe dirt off the caps and stems. [BOTTOM] A bowl of cleaned and trimmed chanterelles ready for cooking.
Young Canoe Builder Completes His Task
By Shawn Perich
Many Minnesotans own canoes. Rare is the canoer who paddles a birchbark canoe. Rarer still are birchbark canoe builders—Talon Stammen of Grand Forks, ND is one of those.
I met Stammen, a high school senior, last summer when he visited Grand Marais to attend a birchbark canoe-building class at the North House Folk School. I was impressed with this quiet young man who deeply appreciates nature and working with his hands. At the time, he intended to spend the rest of the summer at his family’s island retreat at Lake of the Woods working on his canoe.
Although Stammen took instruction from master canoe-builder Eric Simula of Hovland, the North House class was an overview of techniques, rather than building a canoe from start to fi nish. You might say Stammen learned just enough to be dangerous.
However, I wasn’t surprised when his mother, Mary Stammen, emailed me photos of her son paddling his new canoe. He worked on the canoe for about two months and fi nished it last September. During the process, he learned a lot about canoes and something about native people, too. He was introduced to an Ojibwe elder who gave him welcome advice and encouragement.
“I don’t think I could have completed the canoe without his help,” Stammen told me in a telephone interview. “He was very helpful with fi nding the
right kind of birchbark.”
Gathering and preparing the necessary natural materials to build a canoe is the most time-consuming part of the construction process. He started with birchbark, because it was near the end of the peak season for doing so. A friend suggested he contact an Ojibwe elder who was familiar with traditional crafts. He helped the young man obtain permission to harvest bark on the local reservation.
Stammen says the Ojibwe have different words to describe birch trees, depending upon how the tree is used. What he needed was a canoe birch, a tree with a very straight trunk and thick bark. His friend marked three places on a map where he could fi nd such a tree. With that help, Stammen found the perfect birch.
After harvesting the bark, he scraped away the cambium to reach the inner bark. Then he rolled the bark and soaked it so it would be flexible and supple when it was time to use it. The bark roll was stored beneath some shady cedars on his family’s property to prevent it from drying out.
Next he harvested white cedar, the primar y wood used for the ribs, sheathing, head board and gunnels. For the thwarts and pegs—the latter used in place of nails—he harvested ash. From a swamp he collected watap, the roots of black spruce and tamarack used as lashing. The pitch used to seal the seams came from a white spruce.
Talon Stammen came to the North Shore to learn how to build a birch bark canoe. Last summer he completed the task at his family’s cabin on Lake of the Woods. COURTESY OF TALON STAMMEN
“The pitch can get really sticky. I had it all over me for days,” Stammen said. “I was also told it makes the best chewing gum, but I’m still picking it from my teeth.”
Traditionally, three tools were used to make a canoe—an axe, an awl and a crooked knife. Although he made a traditional awl from the front leg bone of a deer and was given a moose rib to make a crooked knife, Stammen used a steel awl he forged himself and a metal crooked knife.
The canoe was built on the ground, beneath the same cedars where he stored the roll of bark. He started by laying out the bark and then making the building frame, which he held in place with over 400 pounds of smooth, fl at stones. The bark was pulled up around the frame and held in place with stakes. Then he lashed the gunwales to the bark.
He used a beaver tooth to cut the thwarts and lashed and pegged them into place. Thwarts and ribs were shaped with boiling water. After they were heated, he bent the ribs into shape with his knee.
“I broke a half dozen of them before I got the feel of it,” he said.
The ribs get smaller going from stem
to stern and overlap like fish scales. Each rib is fitted and tapped into place beneath the gunwales. More boiling water is used to stretch the bark until the ribs are in place. The seams were coated with spruce pitch and the remaining cambium scraped from the bark. The nearly completed canoe was placed in the water to fi nd leaks, then sealed with more pitch.
Finally, the 14-foot hunting canoe
was ready to paddle. Stammen says the canoe is designed to carry one or two hunters and travel fast without a load. However, it has the carrying capacity to handle whatever game the hunter kills. He says the canoe is a joy to paddle.
“I really can’t compare it to a regular canoe, because the shape and materials are so different,” he says. “It’s so buoyant it sits right on top of the water.”
Stammen hopes to put his new canoe to use in traditional ways, such as harvesting wild rice and netting whitefish. He’s also preparing materials to make a long bow, snowshoe frames and perhaps a second canoe. He plans to learn how to tan hides and is getting a raw bison hide from a North Dakota bison farm. He wants to learn about trapping, too. While he appreciates the old ways, the young man doesn’t live in the past.
“I’m not against technology. I want to become a physician.” he says. “I just feel that when I’m in a wilderness environment, I want to use the skills of working with my hands and be in more in touch with the environment.”
Whatever the future holds for this 18-year old, those skills will serve him well.
A birch bark canoe is bouyant and easy to paddle. COURTESY OF TALON STAMMEN
There are no sharks in Lake Superior.
This was one of the reasons I expected to have a great time trying SUP (stand-up paddleboarding) in Grand Marais. See, I had tried surfi ng three times before. All three attempts had ended in literal “tears for fears.”
Years ago, I was living in northern California and felt inspired to borrow a board and a wetsuit and a patient friend. We ventured to a beginner-friendly—but notoriously sharky—surf spot. I didn’t even want to put my hands in the water, much less risk falling in. But I got on the board anyway and managed to ride a couple of little waves.
Soon, though, the fear in the back of my head swelled to a crescendo of panic. I freaked out and hightailed it to dry land. Rinse, repeat. Rinse, repeat.
Now I was in Grand Marais and expect-
ing to have a very different water-and-board experience. And I did. Eventually. First, though, I had to get the board to the beach without blowing away.
I procured equipment and a guide from Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply (20 E. 1st St., Grand Marais). We went just behind the store to the East Bay, the circular Lake Superior bay around which Artist’s Point reaches.
It was late summer. Wind beat the open water beyond the point into stiff, whitecapped peaks. The bay looked squirrelly, but manageable.
At roughly 30 inches wide and 11 or 12 feet long, the rental board was essentially a heavy foam sail. As I wrestled it the short distance between the store and the bay, the wind nearly coaxed the SUP aloft.
We set our boards on the beach. Melissa, the guide, explained and pantomimed the
process of standing up on a stand-up paddleboard. First you get to your knees. When you are comfortable there, you smoothly, gracefully evolve to standing upright.
She paddled out. I waded in and clambered aboard my SUP with the balletic grace of a pregnant walrus.
SUPs are old-school, a throwback to the stand-up technique developed by Waikiki beachboys in the ‘60s. Unlike with a regular surfboard (long or short), instead of lying on your belly and windmilling your arms in the water to move forward, you stand on the board and pole the water aside with a comically long paddle. Mentally I christened it a Shark-Proof Paddleboard.
Once past the shallow water, it was time to get vertical. I rose to all fours, then my knees, then, after a bit of poling around, my feet. I wobbled and braced for an icewater baptism.
As it turned out, my hair didn’t even get wet. Once I stood, the big, wide board was like my own floating island, especially after I heeded Melissa’s advice to bend my knees
and keep the board at odds with the oncoming wavelets.
I had canoed and kayaked before, so there wasn’t as much of a learning curve with the paddle. Its length took getting used to, though. Maneuvering the board sometimes seemed like steering the Titanic with a pool cue.
To be honest, I had expected SUP to feel like paddling a canoe, only taller. But it was totally different. Quickly it was obvious why surfi ng had been the sport of Hawaiian royalty. Standing on the water felt stately, regal. I was both connected to the lake—riding the tiny buck of each wavelet that rolled under the board—and above it, giddy and fl ying like Aladdin on his magic carpet.
This summer I plan to stand up and paddle again. Someday I’d like to get good enough to ride real waves—whether ocean or lake. I’ll just have to paint a message on the bottom of my board: “No sharks allowed.”
Miss Guided BY SHELBY GONZALEZ
Miss Guided paddles her SUP in the sheltered East Bay at Grand Marais. MELISSA RICHTER
People of all ages and athletic abilities can try stand-up paddleboarding. You can paddle SUPs on lakes, rivers and the open ocean. Rent an SUP of your own from Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply (www.stoneharborws.com) and explore an inland lake. (For SUPing on Lake Superior, they require taking a guide along for liability reasons.) Resorts in the Northern Wilds are starting to climb on the SUP bandwagon. The University of Minnesota-Duluth also has a “Surf + Kite” program that holds occasional classes and outings.
Stone Harbor guide Melissa Richter demonstrates the knee-paddling position. SHELBY GONZALEZ
The “Lighthouse of Doom” and the Long-Lived Cat
Imagine looking out the window of a Lake Superior lighthouse and seeing a giant lake freighter on course to slam right into you.
It is just one of the many lighthouse tales that have become part of the Lake Superior folklore.
Strange Tales
BY ELLE ANDRAWARNER
Lake Superior’s fi rst lighthouses appeared in 1849 at Whitefi sh Point and Copper Harbour. It wasn’t until 1865—the same year Minnesota became a state— that the fi rst lighthouse was built on Superior’s western shores at Minnesota Point. The lighthouse was nicknamed “Old Standby” and marked the entrance to the SuperiorDuluth harbour.
Two years later, in the summer of 1867--the same year the Dominion of Canada was created—Canada’s fi rst lighthouse on Lake Superior, the St. Ignace Lighthouse, was lit at Talbot Island, a place which the Ojibway warned the government was haunted by evil spirits. After the deaths of three lighthouse keepers within six years, the Canadian government abandoned their ‘’lighthouse of doom.’’ However, fishermen report that sometimes during a moonlit night, a white-haired woman (rumoured to be the widow of the second keeper) can be seen roaming the remote island.
Minnesota’s Split Rock Lighthouse, which sits on a sheer 130-foot cliff, owes its existence to a shipwreck less than a mile away. It happened in the early hours of November 28, 1905, during a raging blizzard. The 436-foot steel barge Madeira was being towed by the 478-foot steel steamer William Edenborn. About 3 a.m. the towline broke, leaving Madeira drifting and helpless. Three hours later, the Madeira was being smashed broadside against a cliff, lost a
crewman, broke in two and sank. Coincidentally, at the same time a few miles away, the Edenborn slammed its bow at full speed onto the shore at the mouth of Split Rock River. She also lost one crew member as the ship cracked midship.
After the 1905 storm, shipowners lobbied successfully for a lighthouse to be built near Split Rock (then called Stoney Point).
The beautiful Battle Island about seven miles from Rossport comes with an interesting history. According to lake legends, its name comes from a battle that suppos-
edly took place in 1885 between Canadian soldiers on their way to Manitoba to squash the Riel Rebellion and the Ojibway. The soldiers were marching across the frozen Lake Superior from Jackfish to Rossport when, along the way, the soldiers claim shots were fi red at them and they returned the fi re, lending to the story that a “battle” took place. A nearby island and lighthouse took on the name of Battle Island.
Battle Island’s fi rst official keeper, Charles McKay (1877-1913), stayed for 36 years and was one of those hardy mariners who thought nothing of row-sailing 92 miles to Thunder Bay on business. Another time in early December, he rowed-sailed from Battle Island to Sault Ste. Marie to see his family, arriving on Christmas Day.
The lighthouse sits atop a rock cliff 117 feet above the water. Yet, in 1977, as the keepers huddled in their house, a ferocious summer storm pushed a huge wave up more than 100 feet, splashing right over the tower.
Built on the southeast side of Isle Royale, Menagerie Island Lighthouse was fi rst lit on October 19, 1875 when the unmarried John Malone was the fi rst assistant keep-
The light at the north entrance to Thunder Bay Harbour was struck by a ship in 1971, requiring months of repairs. | ELLE ANDRA-WARNER
er. Three years later, he became the keeper and in 1880, the 35-year old Malone married 20-year old Irish woman named Julia Shea. They stayed at the isolated lighthouse for the next 34 years, raising 13 children—all named after lighthouse inspectors. The year that there were two inspectors, Julia gave birth to twins.
A creatively self-reliant couple, they grew vegetables on nearby Wright Island, had a family cow grazing on another island, gathered seagull eggs (an 1887 log entry noted 1,487 eggs collected to date), and in their spare time, stuffed birds and animals they had killed for food.
From just about anywhere in Thunder Bay, one can see the red-and-white lighthouse built in 1937 on the end of the breakwall’s north entrance to the harbour. In May 1971, the keepers had an unexpected visitor when the Canadian Steamship Lines Simcoe collided with the lighthouse and pier, causing heavy damage and cutting the submarine cables. It took four months of repairs before the keepers could return to the lighthouse.
When the lighthouse keeper at Porphyry Point, the late Dave Sokalsy of Thunder Bay, fi nished the season in the 1970s, his beloved cat companion was nowhere to be found when he was helicoptered back to the mainland. His friend William Hryb tells the story of the heartbroken Dave paying the costs for a helicopter ride back to Porphyry to fi nd his lost cat. “Shortly after landing, he found his precious cat waiting at the door of the lighthouse. He bundled her up in his long coat for the ride back to the base,” said Hryb, adding the cat went on to live a long life.
BEAVER BAY & SILVER BAY
Beaver Bay mini mall
Big Dipper
Bridgeman’s Ice Cream • Chocolates • Espresso Fudge • Maple Syrup • Soup Mixes Jams and Jelly • Wild Rice
Open 9 am - 7 pm • On Highway 61 in Beaver Bay
American Fare with a North Shore Flair
Iconic Minnesota lights include Grand Marais (top) and Two Harbors (below).
Sea Arches by Kayak Discover the North Shore's Vaulted Jewels
Story & Photos by
Bryan Hansel
In late August of 2010, the most recognizable sea arch on the North Shore and one of Tettegouche State Park’s most popular attractions collapsed into Lake Superior. News sources reported that it was the only arch along the North Shore, but kayakers knew better. Many of Minnesota’s sea arches are only accessible to sea kayaks and remain relatively unknown.
An arch is like a cave with one exception: You can paddle in one side and come out the other. Arches along the North Shore range in size from those that take a few seconds to pass through to those that feel like a cave, and most require the use of a kayak to gain access. These are a few of my favorites.
Ilena
Precautions
Lake Superior’s water temperature seldom rises above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. If you tip over, you could quickly suffer from cold shock, cold incapacitation and hypothermia. When paddling on the big lake, wear a drysuit or wetsuit to help manage this risk. Inexperienced paddlers should consider hiring a guide because these trips are for intermediate to advanced paddlers.
The Cave of Waves
The Cave of Waves is the longest arch on the shore and the most unusual. You kayak into a 25-foot tall, cave-like arch that cuts into the side of a 50-foot cliff, turn 90 degrees and then paddle out the other side. The turn feels harrowing in waves, but you can reach out and touch the arch’s side if you need help turning. To get there, launch at the mouth of the Baptism River in Tettegouche State Park and paddle north along the shore 1.2 miles until you reach Crystal Bay. Find the arch near the north end of a sand beach. In waves, proceed with caution as Shovel Point creates a mess of kayak-tipping reflection waves.
Palisade Head Arch
A fi nger of rock juts into Superior from the southeast corner of Palisade Head. An arch cuts through its center, creating a cavern with a cathedral ceiling. A rock pillar divides the cavern into two arches. As a bonus, after kayaking through the arches, paddle closer to shore and kayak through a narrow slot separating the rocky fi nger from the mainland. To get there, kayak south southwest 1.6 miles from the Baptism River. Once at Palisade Head, there is no way off the water as you paddle past 200foot tall palisades. These cliffs create reflection waves, making passage difficult if there’s swell.
Manitou River Arch
The Manitou River plunges over a cliff and directly into Lake Superior, and a beach at its mouth funnels the river through an arch. It takes seconds to paddle through the arch, but because the arch frames the waterfall, it feels like you’re paddling into a secret cove. When the river is running high, avoid this trip. To get there, paddle 5.5 miles south from Sugarloaf Cove along basalt cliffs. Along the way look for two additional arches. There are no landings on this trip, it’s remote with limited cell service, and rescue is a long way away. Consider this an intermediate to advanced trip.
Other Arches
Kayak to the easiest-to-reach arch by launching from the Cutface Creek Rest Area near Grand Marais and paddling around Terrace Point. About 100 yards down the shore, an arch leads into a rocky cove just big enough for one kayak. A house tops the cove, and the homeowners will wave and cheer when they see you pass through their arch.
If you just want to see an arch, drive to Hollow Rock Resort near Grand Portage. A small arch cuts through a rocky island. During winter, you can watch the sunrise through it.
EXCURSIONS
Thompson, Caribou Islands
INSTRUCTION
Come try the first 100% eco-frendly harbour tour sailboat, now with an electric engine.
Bryan Hansel is an ACA-certifi ed kayaking instructor who has kayaked the entire American shorelin e of Lake Superior. He owns North Shore Expeditions, a kayak guiding company based in Grand Marais
THUNDER BAY HARBOUR SAILING TOURS
Regular tours all summer long. Starting at $45 per person. BIG LAKE ADVENTURES Isle Royale, Silver Islet, Horseshoe Cove, Sleeping Giant, Red Rock/Nipigon in the NMCA
Ron Steinwall kayaks through the Palisade Head sea arch.
Sweet Somethings
Old-fashioned candy shop serves treats,
nostalgia
— By Shelby Gonzalez —
[ABOVE] Amelie coats
Gummi Bears with melted chocolate at Great!
Lakes Candy Kitchen in Knife River. [BELOW] A delicious tray of Honey
Crisp sweet cream caramel apples awaits a fan or two.
If Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory got shrunk in the dryer and dropped on the North Shore, the result might look something like the Great! Lakes Candy Kitchen,
The Kitchen lives in the little building that used to house Mel’s Fish, just past the Knife River on Scenic Highway 61.
The jaunty red trim, whirligig windsocks and hand-painted signs hint at the delights waiting within.
Inside, you’ll fi nd a retro-fl avored explosion of color: lollipops, I Love Lucy aprons, jars of Gummi Worms and hard candies, cellophane packages of fudge and peanut brittle tied with ribbons. A sample tray provides a steady rotation of temptation.
The broad, glass-fronted counter that once held smoked fish is now crammed with handmade sweets, including divinity, English toffee, Swiss mints, air crunch and chocolate fish (in honor of the building’s former identity). On a tray atop the counter sits a gleaming line of caramel apples— Minnesota-grown Honeycrisps swaddled in sweet-cream caramel and rolled in crushed peanuts. The Kitchen sells about 80 per day. Here, you can take your caramel straight up, enrobed in dark or milk chocolate, speckled with coarse-ground sea salt, swirled around an apple, or spiked with ginger or licorice.
The fl avored caramels were invented by Patricia Canelake and Pamela Canelake Matson, the sisters who, along with
husband Dennis, started the shop.
The Canelakes have caramel in their blood. In 1905, Patricia and Pamela’s grandfather, Gust, started the Virginia Candy Kitchen in Virginia. Their father, John, and his brother Leo took it over and changed the name to Canelake’s Candy. John invented a chilly confection called the Nutty Ice Cream Bar that sold for a dime.
Pamela and Patricia packed candy and worked the soda fountain. They only got to help in the Virginia store on special occasions. On Christmas, they would make candy canes with their dad.
Canelake’s survived the Depression but not familial indifference; the store was sold in the 1970s because “at the time, no one in the family was interested” in taking it over, explained Pamela. Canelake’s Candy remains open today and features a restored soda fountain and colorful murals depicting its early days.
Pamela grew up to be an art teacher, Patricia an artist and teacher. Some five years ago, after Pamela retired, she and her husband, Dennis, and Patricia teamed up to start a candy business, carrying on a 100year family tradition. Pamela and Dennis’s son, Andy, has been working with them at the Kitchen for two years and does a lot of the cooking these days.
John Canelake is still around and “remembers everything,” said Pamela. “He
Pamela’s
loves to hear about how we’re doing at the store. I still consult with him on recipes. My dad always says, ‘Don’t change the recipe and don’t skimp on the butter and sugar—your customers will know.’”
They make much of their candy in a big copper kettle made by Savage Bros. of Chicago, the same company he used. And they use his recipes for “everything, really.”
Candymaking is a science with soul. Chocolate, for example, cannot simply be heated until it melts. It needs to be coddled to specific temperatures with a multi-step process known as tempering. “If you don’t temper the chocolate, it turns gray,” said
[LEFT] Pamela Canelake Matson stirs up a pot of “air crunch” in a big copper kettle. [TOP] Jeremy Matson cuts a batch of homemade caramels.
[ABOVE] Shelby Gonzalez spent a day working the store, learning to make candy.
Patricia. “That’s called ‘blooming.’”
Many candy operations use enrobing machines that turn out perfectly uniform chocolate coatings. At the Great! Lakes Candy Kitchen, Pamela said, they strive to make their confections “roughly elegant, so you can see they’re handmade.”
That said, they are not at all averse to using technology. A digital thermometer attached to the wall with a cord lays in a kettle of air crunch. The kettle looks like it’s got an IV.
“My father never had one of these,” said Pamela, referring to the digital thermometer, “but he would have appreciated it.”
Hurry Up and Grow
When George Gershwin penned the lyrics to his song, “Summertime,” he certainly didn’t have wildlife in mind. The lyrics read “summertime, and the livin’ is easy,” but if he’d been thinking of wildlife he would have written “summertime, hurry up and grow.”
While summer may indeed be an easy time for humans –a time of backyard barbecues, trips to the lake, or leisurely bike rides—for birds and animals it’s a period of condensed activity. During summer, parents are constantly on guard for the safety of their offspring, and for many species, in a continuous search for food, which is endlessly delivered to the nest or den.
Through My Lens
BY MICHAEL FURTMAN
pounds, but must grow to nearly 100 pounds to make it through our winter. Downy ducklings weigh an 1.25 ounces, and must not only reach adult size before migrating south, but also must grow their fi rst set of feathers and learn to master fl ight. Fox kits also attain adult size by their fi rst winter, but not only must they grow, they must learn to hunt or they won’t survive. Once at adult size, they have to leave their parent’s territory.
and movement are good guides for locating them.
In addition to enjoying photographing young wildlife, I am absorbed by their rapid development and fascinated by the differing strategies various species take in raising thei r young. For instance, songbird youn g are helpless, must be fed until they can leave the nest, and don’t leave the nest until they have reached adult size (which is also their fi rst fl ight). This development strategy is called “altricial” by scientists. Most are cared for by both parents, which must feed and “brood” them to keep them warm.
The young have their own tasks, which are largely to stay out of trouble and to grow. Living as we do at a latitude that promises rigorous winters, wildlife either needs to get big enough over the summer to survive the oncoming snow, or develop adequately to migrate before it arrives. Consider that white-tailed deer fawns arrive in June and weigh in at less than 8
As a wildlife photographer, summer is both one of the best times to capture images and one of the most difficult. Wild animals don’t normally parade their youngsters around. Finding the little ones is frequently far more difficult than actually getting the photo. Nests and mammal dens are usually well hidden, and dense summer foliage means that you can be mere feet from a hidden fawn or a nest without spotting it. But the good news is that, like human children, wildlife young don’t like to stay put if they can help it, and they are often nois y. Both noise
Ducklings, goslings and ruffed grouse chicks are born covered with down and are completely mobile within hours. They aren’t fed by parents, but feed themselves. Broodin g does occur in nasty weather or at night, but frequently the chicks just sleep next to their mother. This type of development is called “precocial” and in most of these species, only the female cares for the young.
After nursing has ended, most predator species, like foxes and wolves, continue to feed their young and then gradually expose them to the hunt. Most prey species, like deer, don’t
Young broad-winged hawks peer from their nest in an aspen tree.
Mallard ducklings are the definition of “cute.”
feed their offspring after they’ve been weaned, but do show them where the best food sources are located.
Besides enjoying learning about these differences, I also enjoy simply watching young wildlife. Although some are downright ugly (baby hawks and owls, for instance), most young animals are pretty doggone cute. And it is fun to watch them explore their world and play. Yes—many do play, especially the deer and foxes I’ve watched.
The author has frequently observed fox pups at play.
Camping with Wheels RV's bring Creature comforts Outdoors
If you want mobility and creature comforts in the great outdoors you can’t beat an RV, especially if you have kids. Bunks, a bathroom, kitchen and security can all be part of the RV experience.
RVs or “recreational vehicles” can go from as simple as a pop-up tent trailer to as pimped-out as a rock star’s tour bus; it all depends on your needs and your budget.
Travel trailers, slide-in truck campers, motorhomes, sport utility RVs (the front is the living area, the back is a mini-garage for sleds, ATVs, motorcycles, and toys), ice fishing house RVs, as well as RVs designed to accommodate the special needs of the disabled, are available to suit your particular situation.
Many places rent RVs, so you can try before you buy and enjoy RV camping without a substantial fi nancial investment.
Campsites
Minnesota has thousands of places to camp, but all of them don’t cater to RVs, so call ahead or check online before you head out. When you do fi nd an RV-friendly campground do your best to arrive around noon, because some campsites are available on a fi rst-come, fi rst-served basis. You want the best site you can get.
Speaking of choosing a campsite, be aware of your RV’s dimensions (height, length, w idth) and turning radius. We know from fi rsthand experience that backing an RV into a small campsite can be challenging to say the least. Trying to maneuver a big
By Lee Boyt
vehicle backwards in the deep, dark woods at night can leave battle scars from low-hanging branches, and at least a couple of do-overs before ending up in the right place on the campsite.
That’s the other reason to arrive around noon: it’s a lot easier to spot your RV in the daylight than in the dark (when it’s also often raining).
What to Expect
Some commercial campgrounds cater to entertaining the kids, with amenities like swimming pools, organized activities, bike trails, and the like. Individual sites are often “pull-through,” so no embarrassing backing in is required. They also typically offer water, sewer, and electrical hook-ups.
Campgrounds run by federal, state, and local governments tend to be more spartan (but cheaper) than their commercial counterparts. Amenities may include a boat launch, a swimming area, fresh water (from a spigot or hand pump), nice pit toilets (fancy outhouses), walking/biking trails, and a relatively quiet environment depending on the campground and time of year.
When you arrive at a campground and
Basic Campground Etiquette
see another camper way off in the far corner, don’t park your RV in the site next to them. There’s a reason those folks chose a spot away from everyone else – let them enjoy their solitude.
Have fun, but keep the noise down; you’re enjoying nature, not a frat party. Avoid crossing another campsite on your way to the lake or to other destinations, take the trail or road instead.
Keep your pets on a leash, and pick up the excrement as you’re walking. You don’t want to step in dog doo, do you? Neither does anyone else.
Don’t be afraid to be pleasant to your fellow campers, otherwise you could miss out on the opportunity to make new friends.
The Bottom Line
RV camping is great for families, or groups of friends to travel and camp together without the hassles of airlines, hotels, and rental cars.
Try it – it’s a lot of fun.
Camping with an RV allows you to have creature comforts in a self-contained rig. COURTESY OF EXPLORE MINNESOTA TOURISM AND GO Rving
DOG LAKE
The Nipigon River is the greatest trout water in the world. It’s cold, clear and home to brook trout that can grow to preposterous sizes. In 1915 the world record brookie was caught in the river by Dr. J.W. Cook. The record is one of the oldest remaining all-tackle fishing records and it will quite likely never be toppled. Clearly, when it comes to trout fishing the Nipigon is special.
That being said, the Nipigon is merely a shadow of the mighty river it was when Dr.
Cook landed his 14.8-pound monster brook trout. Three hydroelectric dams have stilled and buried most of the river’s once-torrential rapids. Only a few ripples of upwellin g water exist where mighty Virgin Falls once thundered and sent cold spray 100 feet into the air. The dams tamed this wild beast to generate vast amounts of power. Today the river also has more water than it did 100 years ago due to a large diversion into Lake Nipigon from the Ogoki system. This has created some erosion problems. Decades of
Native brook trout reach trophy size in the Nipigon River, where the author caught and released this beauty.
log drives on the river also left the riverbed littered with logs and bark. Despite all these changes, the brook trout somehow survived, and the Nipigon remains one of the great cold-water fisheries of the world. All serious trout fishermen dream of fishing the river at least once.
For the angler, the Nipigon poses unique challenges. The river is Lake Superior’s largest tributary and even in low-water conditions, it’s very swift and deep, also, the water levels can change. The shore fisherman has to be extremely careful and wading can be dangerous. However, Alexander’s Dam, located on the Pine Portage Road north of the town of Nipigon, provides excellent shore fishing opportunities. Anglers can even fish from a viewing platform near the dam. Brook trout are often caught from shore below Alexander’s dam, but you can also hook into lake trout, steelhead and Chinook salmon. Casting spoons, spinners and bucktail jigs with spinning gear accounts for most successful catches. However, fl y anglers can do very well, especially in late June and early July, when the mayfly hatch is on. The boils of trout eating mayfl ies during the hatch can be seen all over the river—it’s one of the few times on the Nipigon when a dry fl y angler can out-fish all other fishermen.
Although shore fishing can be fruitful, the Nipigon River is really best fi shed from a boat, due to its size. The boat doesn’t need to be a large craft, but should be at least 14 feet long with a 15 horsepower (dependable) outboard motor due to some of the rapids on the river. Anglers who fish from boats generally troll deep-diving crank baits like the Rapala Shad Rap or J-13. Aggressive salmon and steelhead love to hit wobbling baits, and these lures work
well in the swift waters. For anglers who prefer to cast, spoons, spinners or jigs can be tossed towards shore and drifted with the current. Brook trout are particularly susceptible to this technique.
It should be noted that there are special regulations and sanctuaries on the Nipigon River. An angler can only legally keep a Nipigon brook trout that is over 22 inches, and the limit is one fi sh. Most anglers on the river release all the brook trout they catch to help preserve the fishery.
Sat. July 28 - Sat. August 5
The skin of the world record brook shown above was lost in a fire, though the catch remains among the most famous angling records.
South of the Border
Stop in for a great breakfast before you head out.
Breakfast Served All Day
Open 5 a.m. - 2 p.m. Everyday! Located at the stop light in We’re Open Before the Fish Bite!
We go to incredible lengths to select the nest individual beans for your locally owned Dunn Bros Coffee Stores. Each single-origin bean reects the unique nuances of the farm where it was grown. We take great joy in offering different varieties of coffee roasted daily in our store. We think you’ll take great joy in drinking them.
Dunn Bros Coffee 2401 London Road Duluth, MN 55812 (218) 724-8838
2 Blocks West of Blackwoods Restaurant, across from the Edgewater Hotel and Waterpark
Reuben Swenson—An Angling Nomad
By Shawn Perich
If you’ve spent time fl y-fishing on the Gunfl int Trail, maybe you’ve met Reuben Swenson. For nearly 25 years, he’s fished and camped along the Trail every summer for weeks or months at a time. For Swenson, age 67, fl y fishing is life.
In the 1980s, Swenson divorced and subsequently sold the restaurant he owned and operated. After moving back to his hometown of Mahtowa, he had a heart attack. He was 41. Swenson’s recovery was slow. He couldn’t return to work and was frustrated with a shut-in existence.
Then he went trout fishing with a friend who introduced him to float tubes. Floating in the water ensconced in a tube, Swenson discovered he relaxed and felt much better.
In 1987, Swenson started fishing full time. A fl y-fishing nomad, he spends his summers along the North Shore and winters by the great trout rivers of Arkansas. Living on a
meager Social Security income, his Toyota pickup is his home. He carries everything he needs in the truck and, during the warm months, sleeps in the back. While he lives as a lone nomad, Swenson isn’t lonely, because he has many friends who fish with him.
SAWMILL TOURS
Hedstrom Lumber Co. will be offering tours of the Sawmill and Planing Mill
Although he maintains a bus y fishing schedule, Swenson’s health still restricts what he can do. All of his fishing occurs in places where he can easily get to the water. At one of his favorite trout lakes, a steep stairway leads from the parking lot to the water. He stopped fishing there for several years, because he could no longer climb the stairs. He returned to the lake after having a pacemaker/defibrillator implanted. The device can restore his heartbeat with a jolt of electrical current.
“I’m a hybrid,” he quips. “I run on electricity half of the time.”
While he remains passionate about fl y fishing, catching fish has become less important. He is happy to be on the water, fishin g with friends and seeing them catch fish. And he plans to keep fi shin g as long as he can.
“I don’t think you are ever too old or decrepit to fl y fish,” he says. “It’s a lifetime pursuit. I don’t see me retiring from fishing.”
a day in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. Paddle the “Kelso Loop”three beautiful wilderness lakes in three hours.
Reuben Sweson spends his summers fly-fishing along the Gunflint Trail.
Summer is Berry Time
By Shawn Perich
Berry picking is one of summer’s sweet rewards. Blueberries are the best known wild crop, but a bounty of berries are available. The picking begins in June, when the wild strawberries appear, and continues through the fi rst frosts of October, which sweeten the high bush cranberries.
For many folks along the North Shore, the discovery of a ripe wild strawberry marks the fi rst day of summer. Their exquisite fl avor makes them a favorite of berry lovers and is made only sweeter by their diminutive size and relative scarcity. It takes a determined picker to come up with enough wild strawberries to make jam.
Look for wild strawberries in places with sunny exposure and low ground cover, such as fields and roadsides. It’s generally easy to fi nd a few strawberries. The challenge is fi nding more than a handful of them. Rarely will you fi nd strawberries growing in an extensive patch. Instead you may need to roam about, picking a few here and a few there until you have enough for jam or other uses. An alternative is to pick domestic strawberries at one of the pick-your-own farms.
Blueberries begin appearing in July, although you can continue picking them well into August.
Preferring sunshine and sandy soils, blueberry shrubs proliferate following a forest disturbance such as a wild fi re. Recently burned areas offer prime picking, but you can also fi nd blueberries in cutover areas, forest edges and pine uplands. Most folks have favorite places to pick. If you are new to blueberry picking, ask some locals where to fi nd them.
Some folks pick blueberries by the gallon, while others have just enough patience to pick a cup or
two. Regardless of your picking fortitude, it pays to stroll through the patch and pick the plumpest berries you can fi nd. If you can go picking a day or two after a summer rain, so much the better, because newly ripened berries plump up with the additional moisture. Dry conditions can cause berries to be small and not very sweet.
Wild raspberries also ripen in July and August. Abundant and easy to pick, raspberries are found
in sunny, open areas. It doesn’t take long to pick enough raspberries for a batch of muffi ns or a pie. The only drawback is that you must stand among raspberry stalks prickly with small thorns. It’s a good idea to wear long pants.
Other berries you may happen upon include thimble berries, which are common along the Superior Hiking Trail. Growing in semi-shaded forest areas, thimble berries are large, tangy-sweet red berries some folks use to make
jam. June berries, also called service berries or Saskatoons, grow on shrubs along the forest edge, ripening around early August. The berries look like big blueberries and can be used the same way. Chokecherries, which also grow on shrubs, ripen in late summer and are popular with wine makers. Cranberries, both the ground level and high bush varieties, also ripen late in the season and can be used to make sauces.
Blueberry picking is a matter of perseverance. It takes time to pick enough berries for
fresh pie (left). Seek out plump berries (above) for the best flavor. SHAWN PERICH
Kale and Error
Don’t get me going on kale.
You would have heard an earful six months ago. Awful.
Yech.
Too strong for me.
And then I discovered dinosaur kale, or Lacinato kale, a cultivar originating in Italy that is—dare I say this?—absolutely yummy.
the Accidental Gardener
BY JOAN FARNAM
It’s not unusual for vegetable varieties to taste differently, but in the case of kale, vive la difference.
Most of the kale you’ll fi nd in stores is curly kale, and it’s a little too tough (I’m being polite) and strong-fl avored for my taste. Dino kale, on the other hand, sings in your mouth. It is very tender and just tastes like good health.
Which, of course, all kales are. They’re loaded with Vitamin A and C as well as potassium, calcium and iron, and are a great source of fiber, too. No wonder “Eat More Kale” signs are popping up on bumper stickers and T-shirts all over the country.
It’s not hard to grow, either, although it does prefer cool weather. It can get bitter in the summer heat, so it’s best as a spring and fall crop.
Frost doesn’t bother it much, so you can be harvesting kale for soups, casseroles and the very popular kale chips (see recipe below) deep into fall.
It likes fertile soil and regular watering, but, since it’s a member of the cabbage family, cabbage worms can be a problem. Putting row covers over the plants prevents the moths from getting to the plants to
lay their eggs. Or you can just be diligent and check the leaves for eggs and worms.
Kale harkens back to Europe in the Middle Ages. It arrived in this country in the mid-1800s. A Russian variety called Red Russian is delicious. Seeds for many different varieties are available in many seed catalogs, including Seed Savers Exchange.
I’m going to grow a bunch of it this year, both to eat fresh (young kale leaves are good in salads, and can even be substituted for lettuce in sandwiches) as well as freeze for the winter. Kale can be an expensive green, but if you grow your own and freeze it, it’s defi nitely affordable.
Brianna Schueller, who gardens in Cook County and likes to eat kale as often as possible, grows and freezes large quantities each year. Here’s her advice:
“The key is blanching it fi rst in boiling salt water. That just takes a few minutes. Then I twist little single-serving ‘lumps’ onto a dish towel to dry out a bit before I freeze them. I make sure the lumps of kale aren’t touching in the freezer so when I am ready to eat them I can take them out one at a time. I store beet greens this way too.”
I’m assuming that once the kale lumps are frozen, they can be stacked into freezer bags and stored that way.
I’m looking forward to enjoying some great soups and casseroles this winter featuring my homegrown dinosaur kale.
Kale Recipes
Ribollita
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
4 celery stalks, chopped
3 med. cloves garlic, chopped
2 med. carrots or equiv. winter squash, chopped
1 med. red onion, chopped
1 can crushed tomatoes
1/2 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
1 pound lacinato kale, stems trimmed off and leaves well chopped
2 cans cooked white or cannellini beans
1/2 pound crustless loaf of bread
1 1/2+ tsp fine grain sea salt
zest of one lemon
lots of well-chopped oily black olives
In your largest thick-bottomed pot over medium heat combine the olive oil, celery, garlic, carrot, and red onion. Cook for 10 -15 minutes, avoid any browning. Stir in tomatoes and red pepper
fl akes, simmer for 10 minutes or so, long enough for the tomatoes to thicken. Stir in kale, 3 cups of the beans, and 8 cups water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until greens are tender, about 15 minutes.
In the meantime, mash remaining beans with a
generous splash of water until smooth. Tear bread into bite-sized chunks. Stir beans and bread into soup. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until soup thickens, 20 - 30 minutes. Stir in the lemon zest, salt to taste.
Serve immediately, or cool and refrigerate overnight. Serve reheated, or “ribollita” meaning reboiled, the next day. Finish bowls with drizzle of olive oil and chopped olives.
Makes a large pot of soup - enough for 10 servings. Prep time: 20 min - Cook time: 60 min
Kale Chips
1 bunch fresh kale
1 tbsp olive oil
Salt to taste
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Wash kale leaves, remove stems and tear into bite-sized pieces. Pat dry. Place in large bowl and drizzle olive oil over them. Toss to coat leaves. Add a little salt and pepper, if desired.
Place kale on a baking sheet greased lightly or covered with parchment paper and bake in oven for 10 to 15 minutes, or until they’re crispy.
Dinosaur or Lacinato kale is easy to grow and delicious.
BOOK REVIEWS
Two Bucks and a Can of Gas
A History of Lutsen:
Gateway to the Wilderness
By Robert McDowell
LUTSEN
HISTORY PRESS, 2012
Robert McDowell has written the quintessential history of Lutsen in this handy paperback. The book is full of fascinating historical photographs and documents which chronicle the founding of Lutsen in the 1800s through its growth into a local economic engine. McDowell includes interviews with descendants of Charles Axel Nelson, who established Lutsen Resort, as well as lots of anecdotes and memories of those who carved a world out of the wilderness. —Joan Farnam
Two Bucks and a Can of Gas
Model A
Adventures
on the Gunflint Trail
By Robert A. Olson
NORTH
SHORE PRESS $14.95
Growing up in Duluth, Bob Olson discovered the Gunflint Trail as a teenager. Driving a Ford Model A handed down through his family, he explored the Gunflint’s lakes and forests. He eventually built two cabins there, including his present home. This enjoyable memoir tells of an era when there were less people and fewer conveniences in the northwoods.—Shawn Perich
61 Gems on Highway 61: A Guide to Minnestoa’s North Shore
By Kathryn Mayo and William Mayo ADVENTURE PUBLICATIONS, $9.95
“61 Gems on Highway 61” is a good guide to Minnesota’s North Shore from Duluth to Grand Portage. Authors Kathryn Mayo and William Mayo have obviously explored every nook and cranny along the winding twolane road that promises breathtaking views of Lake Superior, hidden beaches and lots of history. The book is well-organized with good information about well-known attractions as well as charming places that few, except the locals, have ever discovered.
· 1-807-577-2656 louisethomas@ahnisnabae-art.com THUNDER BAY ART GALLERY
—Joan Farnam Loon’s
Nest Gift Shop
Northwoods Handcrafted Items
The shop is open to mid-October! A unique
Stop in and browse. We have something for everyone, specializing in handcrafted gifts made right here at
Robert R. Olson
Model A Adventures on the Gunint Trail
Bay of Spirits
I am a person who doesn’t have a good sense for spirits. It’s not that I don’t believe in them, but I think you’re either born to see them or you’re not. That said, even I knew we weren’t alone the night we camped on Massacre Island in the Quetico’s Kawa Bay.
There were two reasons I wanted to visit Kawa Bay. The fi rst was a story by Sigurd Olson. He told of a Canadian archeological dig that investigated the mysteries of the island in the 1930s. The second reason was to reach the burial place of most of the Kawa Bay band of Ojibwe people. The tribe was decimated by the Spanish flu in the winter of 1918. Bill Magie told me the tragic tale of their Chief Blackstone’s long walk toward Ely. He made the trek in search of help for his stricken people, but it was futile—Blackstone died en route.
It looked as if the marks were made by someone throwing hatchets and trying to stick them into the trunks. I wondered if this was the place where the brigade of longdead voyageurs met their end at the hands of native warriors long ago.
My partner and I landed on Kawa Bay’s Massacre Island after two days of steady paddling. The island is crescent-shaped w ith a large rock promontory on its northwest end offering ample camping space, and the high spot on the island provides a panorama of Kawnipi Lake. I noticed that many of the old pines covering the island had vertical scars on their spindly trunks.
Our tent was ready for the night, and our supper was cooking on the fi re when darkness fell over the bay. I threw more wood on the fi re after supper to chase back the chilly darkness. Both my partner and I felt we were not alone on Massacre Island. Without saying a word I walked over to our packs and retrieved a small pouch of pipe tobacco. Before setting out on the trip I knew I wanted to offer the dead a token of respect with a gift of tobacco. I returned to the bright warmth of the fi re, reached into the pouch and pulled out a generous handful of aromatic tobacco. I tossed the tobacco into the warm fl ickering light where the greedy fl ames devoured it. The scent of burnt Flying Dutchman rose towards the star-fi lled sky. It was a fragrant offering of appeasement to the souls of Massacre Island, and as the pungent smoke rose into the cool night air the feeling of resentment lessened around us. We both felt that the spirits had accepted our goodwill offering.
My partner and I slept well that night, secure in the feeling that the spirits of Massacre Island stood like silent guards over our peaceful slumber.
The next morning we paddled over to the long sand beach on the north shore of Kawa Bay. Long pine logs with fl attened tops lay in the sand. The logs likely offered seating to those who once looked out over the teacolored water toward Massacre Island. In front of the weathered benches were fi re rings that had known no fi res since the spring of 1919. That was when the few remaining members of the Kawa Bay Band had been moved to Lac La Croix after help fi nally arrived. By then it was too late to combat the flu. All they could do was bury the dead and comfort the living.
We then followed Bill Magie’s directions to a small knoll of Norway pines.
“That’s where the Canadian Rangers buried the band members when the ice had gone from the Hunter’s Island,” he had said. Magie told me that they had buried the band members in small square plots ringed
with stones. They marked the place with a large cairn of rocks topped with a cross of freshly peeled white pine to honor the people who long called Kawa Bay home.
We found the place just as Magie described it, but time had left its own mark on the long-forgotten cemetery. The oncebright pine cross had turned silver and lay in two pieces atop the mossy cairn, and the sandy graves were covered by a blanket of burnt-orange pine needles. We felt a great sense of peace when we said a prayer and sprinkled tobacco over the stones around the graves. The wind whispered quietly as we left the sacred ground on the shores of the beautiful bay. We paddled west toward distant adventures, and away from the silent dead who still call Kawa Bay home.
IRON MIKE HILLMAN
By Deane Morrison UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA STARWATCH
Fishing Camp, The Game
Is a rainy day keeping your family cooped up in the cabin? Gather them around the table for a game of Fishing Camp. A board game well suited to children, Fishing Camp has four levels of trivia questions from Beginner to Expert, so the game will challenge fishing fanatics, too. Fishing Camp is rated for ages 4 and up and can be played by 2-8 people. Fishing Camp retails for $24.99. The game can be purchased at www.educationoutdoors.net. —Shawn Perich
Little Griddle
Expand your outdoor cooking options with Little Griddle. Designed to be used with a gas or charcoal grill, the Little Griddle slides over the grill. Made of stainless steel, it has even heat distribution across the cooking surface. Side panels prevent the food you’re cooking from sliding off the griddle. It has a grease trap, too. Little Griddle comes in various sizes, including a half size that allows you to grill at the same time. Clean up is quick and easy. Learn more at www.littlegriddle.com. Shawn Perich
June’s best star watching happens in the daytime as Venus makes a rare transit across the face of the sun. Try not to miss it; this is the last transit of Venus until December 2117.
The show starts at 5:04 p.m. June 5, when the planet fi rst makes contact with the northeastern edge of the sun. Venus will then spend six hours tracing a line across the northern part of the sun.
From our Midwestern vantage point, the sun will set with Venus still a dark dot on its face. To see the spectacle, take the same precautions as with a solar eclipse: only watch it live under the guidance of a trusted professional. If in doubt, watch it on TV or online.
By crossing the sun, Venus enters the morning sky where it joins Jupiter. The pair will dazzle on July 15, when a waning crescent moon shines between the two planets (Venus is lower). Joining the group just to the west are the bright star Aldebaran and the Hyades star cluster, which together defi ne the face of Taurus, the bull. Look about 90 minutes before sunrise and bring your binoculars.
But Venus and its cohorts aren’t the only show in town. Mars, now in the west after sunset, moves steadily eastward toward
Saturn. The ringed planet is now low in the south to southwest, just above bright Spica, in Virgo.
June’s full “strawberry” moon undergoes a partial eclipse in the predawn hours of the June 4, when it dips its southernmost part in the Earth’s inner, dark umbral shadow. The moon enters Earth’s penumbra at 3:48 a.m. CDT and makes contact with the umbra at 5 a.m. The moon sets at 5:19 a.m., with the umbra shading a small part of its southern face.
July’s full moon arrives on the July 3. It is known as the thunder moon because it’s the time when thunderstorms are most frequent.
The University of Minnesota offers public viewings of the night sky at its Duluth and Twin Cities campuses. For more information and viewing schedules, see:
Duluth, Marshall W. Alworth Planetarium: • www.d.umn.edu/planet
Twin Cities, Minnesota Institute for Astrophysics • (during fall and spring semesters): www.astro. umn.edu/outreach/pubnight
RETAIL
MUSEUMS
Real Estate
By Beth Waterhouse,
One hundred years ago, 28-yearold Ernest Oberholtzer and his Ojibwe guide and friend, Billy Magie, paddled and portaged some 2,000 miles through rugged and unmapped territory.
They traveled—two men in one canoe—from The Pas, Manitoba up to Nueltin, and then they canoed off the map and eventually arrived, as they’d hoped, at Hudson Bay. There, they made their way to Churchill with the help of an Inuit man and his family. The canoeing did not get easier with the long tides of Hudson Bay, but they paddled south to York Factory. Then, in October and upstream, they canoed the Hayes River, arriving at Norway House, Manitoba, two days after the last steamboat of the season had departed.
Manitoba, assisted by Mr. Les Oystryk of Creighton, Saskatchewan.
Les Oystryk explained his enthusiasm: “It is a stretch for people to imagine these two friends, one an American and one a Canadian, traveling as fa r as the ‘end of the steel’ and then venturing off in an 18-foot canoe on a 2,000 mile trip that took them deep into the Northwest Territories. Plus, this epic voyage has almost gone unnoticed in terms of Canadian history. I have only heard of one or two people in my area who were previously aware of these accomplishments, even across several generations of seasoned canoeists.”
Their fi nal 260 miles of canoeing in Lake Winnipeg in November’s snow and ice should have killed them both, but not only did the two return to Gimli in fair health, but Oberholtzer also brought back six small journals and over 150 excellent photographs taken of that journey.
This all happened 100 years ago this coming summer, and we are noticing.
Earlier this year, Bob Hilke (good friend of Oberholtzer and his legacy) and Nancy Jones (granddaughter of Billy Magie) toured the various communities that Ober (as he is fondly called) and Billy passed through 100 years a go. They beg an in The Pas and will end in Thompson,
One hundred years is a very long time, and it’s lon g enough that any human life and human accomplishments remembered across 10 decades have obviously been nurtured and recalled by a few generations of younger people. In Ernest Oberholtzer’s case, there is a foundation created in his name and hundreds who are attracted to his life of wilderness advocacy in Congress or in the State of Minnesota. Ober’s life work led directly to the creation of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness.
A book of Ober’s journals from that trip was published by the Foundation this spring and will be shared on the tour. "Bound for the Barrens," was launched at Open Book in Minneapolis on April 7, then again in Ranier in
for
Ober and Billy Magie rest at a remote campsite. ERNEST OBERHOLTZER FOUNDATION
Welcome to Golden Eagle Lodge, a family oriented, year round resort. We are located on Flour Lake in Northeastern Minnesota on the historic Gunflint Trail and are surrounded by the Superior National Forest. As we are the only residents on the lake, you can look forward to quiet and solitude. We offer modern, housekeeping cabins to ensure comfort during your stay in the North Woods.
Each season has something special to offer, excellent fishing and canoeing in Summer and nationally-renowned Nordic Cross-
Country Skiing in Winter. Our 4 Seasons page will describe in detail all each season has to offer.
Try our 9-site campground which offers quiet and personal service. Each site has water and electric hookups.
We go out of our way to ensure every aspect of your visit will convince you to come back and see us again. We know much time, effort and expense is invested in a vacation, and we are honored you’re considering us as a destination. You won’t be disappointed!
