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FEATURES
Gunflint 'Home' for German
Couple 9
“We tried to make fire, but the only thing that happened was the smoke detector made an unbelievable noise”
Cross-Country Kids 10
Field-tested tips for wrangling rug rats on skis
Warm Up to Winter Camping 12
A complete guide
Extreme Streams 18
One part Nordic tour, one part downhill slalom, all parts adventure
Low-Snow Sledding 20
What to do when suffering from Snow Deficit Disorder
DEPARTMENTS
North Notes 4
Calendar & Events 7
Through My Lens 16
Canadian Trails 17
Miss Guided 22
Product Reviews 23
The Accidental Gardener 24 Book Reviews 25 Starwatch 25
Strange Tales 26
Campfire Stories 27
Dancing with La Niña
La Niña has been kind to the Northern Wilds this winter--perhaps too kind. Winter temperatures have been well above normal, while snowfalls are far below the norm. In mid-January, the annual Beargrease Sled Dog Marathon was canceled due to lack of snow at its Duluth starting point.
Mushers aren’t the only ones feeling the pain of a snowless winter. Many snowmobile trails are in rough shape, if open at all. Downhill ski operations are relying on manmade snow. You can find some groomed cross-country ski trails, though some ski events have been rescheduled.
But La Niña hasn’t been all bad news. Much of the Northern Wilds has enough snow to enjoy winter activities. Cross-country skiers are flocking to the Gunflint Trail, where more than a foot of snow blankets
About our cover: Gaby Würth and Werner Bahner of Freiburg, Germany relax at Golden Eagle Lodge on the Gunfl int Trail.
| COURTESY OF GABY WÜRTH AND WERNER BAHNER
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Elle Andra-Warner, Werner
Lee
Eric
Furtman, Mike Hillman, Art Laframboise, Deane Morrison, Amber Pratt, Kate Watson, Lucas Will, Gaby Würth
the forest. Ice anglers are enjoying warm days, easy travel conditions and better-than-average fishing for all species. Backcountry hikers are enjoying the opportunity to explore places on and off hiking trails.
Winter--real winter, that is--can only get better. We’ve made it through January, which is typically the coldest month of the year. There’s more sunshine now and the days are getting longer, inviting us to spend time outside. We’re keeping our fingers crossed that more snow is coming, too.
In this issue, you’ll find information about a ton of things to do, from organized events like the Ely Winter Festival, Cook County Winter Tracks and Thunder Bay’s Sleeping Giant Loppet to do-it-yourself adventures like ice climbing in Nipigon or taking your children skiing. This is a great time to try winter camping. You’ll find a complete guide to get you started. We even have some tips on winter outdoor cookery from Gord Ellis, our resident chef and jackpine savage.
Take a cue from our cover couple, Gaby Würth and Werner Bahner of Freiburg, Germany, who are shown kicked back and enjoying the sunshine at Golden Eagle Lodge on the Gunflint Trail. Get outside. Have fun. And enjoy this wonderful La Niña winter.
—Shawn Perich and Amber Pratt
Bahner,
Boyt,
Chandler, Gord Ellis, Joan Farnam, Michael
MEGA TRAIL Coming Soon
Sometimes dreams come true. The Duluth-based organization Cyclists of Gitchee Gumee (COGGS) has been awarded a $250,000 Legacy grant from the state of Minnesota to build a 100-mile multi-use single-tracked trail in Duluth.
Northern Wilds reported on COGGS’s ambitious plan last summer (“Singletrack Paradise,” Aug/Sept. 2011). The trail system, called the Duluth Traverse, will connect and expand the four existing trail systems (Hartley Park, Piedmont, Lester-Amity and Spirit Mountain) to allow easy access for people throughout the city. More information at www.coggs.com.
What’s Next for WOLVES?
Minnesota’s gray wolves were removed from the federal government’s threatened species list and returned to state management in January. The Minnesota DNR has since announced that a “limited” wolf hunting and trapping season could happen as early as late 2012.
Minnesota is home to about 3,000 gray
By the Numbers
Almost ten million people visited Ontario’s provincial parks in 2011—an increase of 50,000 visitors from the year before.
wolves, the largest population in the lower 48 states. (The management plan establishes a minimum population of 1,600 wolves.) State law allows anyone to take a wolf to defend human life. Owners of livestock, domestic animals or pets may shoot or destroy wolves that pose an immediate threat to their animals.
Not Playing OPOSSUM
An unusual animal has made its way to northwestern Ontario. Virginia opossums are a familiar sight in parts of southern Ontario and the U.S. But northwestern Ontario is well out of the animals’ normal range. That’s why Albert Hardy had to look twice when he found one staring at him in his backyard in Lake Helen First Nation, near Nipigon, Ontario.
nea
“It tho f r su is p M saw s 00 neto
“It looked like a rat at first,” says Hardy. “That’s what I thought it was. Then I noticed it had a pinkish tail. And it had little hands for feet.”
The opossum has been hanging around his home for two months now, Hardy says, possibly living under his heated shed. He’s been leaving apple slices and bread for the animal every night and they are being eaten. He thinks the mild weather and the feeding have helped it survive. “He looks alright. He’s running around in the snow. I figured he wouldn’t survive because there is no fur on his feet and his tail is pretty much bare.”
Most of Hardy’s neighbours were doubters until they saw the photographic evidence.
“People are shocked when they see the pictures. They go, ‘Ya, that’s a possum.’”— Gord Ellis
COURTESY OF ALBERT HARDY
MACNEIL LYONS/NPS
NUCLEAR WASTE for the North Shore?
Will a nuclear waste storage facility be constructed in the Lake Superior Basin? The answer is: possibly. Canada’s Nuclear Waste Management Organization (NWMO) is looking for a site to construct a storage facility where nuclear waste will be buried in rock 500 meters to one kilometer underground. Areas near Lake Superior are geologically suitable for such a facility and some communities on the Canadian North Shore have expressed interest in the project.
Officials from Nipigon, Ontario recently traveled to Toronto and met with representatives of NWMO for a detailed briefing and a tour of the Pickering Waste Management Facility where nuclear waste is being stored on an interim basis. Mayor Richard Harvey emphatically states this does not mean Nipigon tossed its hat in the ring as a potential nuclear storage site.
“Nipigon has not in any way said we want the nuclear waste here,” said Harvey in an interview. “We want to learn more about the process and inform our citizens. The fact we are asking questions doesn’t mean we are moving forward.”
Nipigon leaders decided to learn more about nuclear waste storage after discovering that two neighboring North Shore communities, nearby Red Rock and Schrieber, were investigating the potential of hosting the facility. While it was determined that Red Rock did not have the proper geology for a storage site, Schreiber remains in the running.
Their interest concerns Nipigon, which is located at the northernmost point of Lake Superior. On the edge of town are two bridges over the mighty Nipigon River, one for the TransCanada Highway and the other for the nation’s railroad. There is no other river crossing, so nearly all of the goods and people moving across Canada must pass this point. If the waste storage facility is located further west, nuclear waste will cross these bridges, too.
For northern communities, becoming the site of the nuclear waste facility could be an economic windfall. However, Harvey said he doesn’t think communities, particularly his own, should decide to enter the site selection process solely on a promise of jobs. “The big issue is perception,” he says. “How does it fit with the vision of who we are and where we are going?”
The Nipigon area has been a tourism destination since the 1800s. Not long ago, the Canadian government established a Marine Conservation area nearby. The community is in the early stages of developing a master plan for its marina and waterfront, in part to take advantage of new tourism opportunities. Tourism development and nuclear waste storage may not be compatible for the community.—Shawn Perich
Geological stability makes the North Shore a candidate for a Canadian nuclear waste site. The town of Nipigon is investigating the ramifications of having a waste site nearby but has not declared official interest. | ART LAFRAMBOISE
Boundary Waters AFTERBURN
The effects of last year’s Pagami Creek Wildfire linger in the form of burned areas and restricted access in some parts of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW). The fire torched over 90,000 acres east of Ely. Some areas, including the Pow Wow Trail, remain
closed to public use. The 2012 permit quotas have been lowered for several entry points. Permit reservations can be made starting Jan. 25. Details at www.recreation.gov. Information about conditions, closures and quotas at www. fs.usda.gov/superior.
Travel Tip: Border Crossing
To make your land border crossing from Canada into Minnesota (or vice versa) as speedy as possible, make sure you have at least one form of acceptable ID, such as:
• Passport
BORDER CROSSING
• Birth certificate plus state-issued identification card
• Passport card
• NEXUS Trusted Traveler Card
• Native American Tribal Photo Identification Card
• Indian and Native Affairs Canada (INAC) Card
Full list and more information at http://travel. state.gov or www.cbsa.gc.ca.
FAMILY FROLICS
Celebrate winter northern-style with these regional festivals
Winter Tracks Festival
FEB. 312
VARIOUS LOCATIONS, NORTH SHORE AND GUNFLINT TRAIL
WWW.WINTERTRACKS.COM
The Winter Tracks Festival is a 10-day fiesta of familyoriented winter events throughout the North Shore and Gunflint Trail, with ice skating, snowshoe tours, live music, dogsledding, sleigh rides, ice sculptures, and special events like the Lutsen Mountains Family Fun Fest, the Ridge Riders Snowmobile Fun Run, the Easter Seals Snowarama and the Volks Ski 400.
Ely Winter Festival (formerly Voyageur Winter Festival)
FEB. 212
ELY WWW.ELYWINTERFESTIVAL.COM
The Ely Winter Festival boasts several new event offerings this year, in addition to its usual array of family activities. Brave the Boathouse Winter Classic Triathlon, sponsored by the Boathouse Brewpub and the Ely Nordic Ski Club, or enjoy the adults-only Rotary Club Polar Bear Dance.
Two Harbors Winter Frolic
FEB. 1011
TWO HARBORS WWW.TWOHARBORSWINTERFROLIC.COM
The Two Harbors Winter Frolic is suitable for small kids and big kids alike. Try out the sliding hill, make a s’more on the open fire, watch the Vintage Snowmobiles ride, take a free horse-drawn sleigh ride or participate in the Smoosh or Outhouse Race.
Voyageur Winter Carnival
FEB. 1820
FORT WILLIAM FWHP.CA
The Voyageur Winter Carnival adds a cultural and historical twist to winter festivities. Activities will include snow shoeing, cross-country skiing, a snow tubing hill, carnival games, a snow maze, dogsledding demonstrations, wagon rides, musket shooting, a wintery Nintendo Wii tournament, and ice skating on the Kam River.
Winter Arts Festival
JAN. 30FEB. 12
COOK COUNTY
WWW.GRANDMARAISARTCOLONY.ORG
The Winter Arts Festival is comprised of two unique events: the Snow Carving Symposium and Winter Plein Air Painting. The Snow Carving Symposium challenges artists to transform simple blocks of snow into ornate works of art. Winter Plein Air is an adventurous outdoor painting event that takes place at Camp Menogyn on the edge of the BWCAW.
Thunder Bay Snowarama
FEB. 4
GRAND PORTAGE LODGE AND CASINO GRAND PORTAGE
WWW.SNOWARAMA.ORG
Snowarama for Easter Seals Kids is the annual snowmobiling fundraising event in support of Ontario´s children and youth with physical disabilities. Come out and enjoy an exhilarating ride on groomed snowmobile trails. Participants will also enjoy a bonfire, spaghetti supper, and a Saturday night dance featuring live entertainment.
Volks Ski 400
Community Event
FEB. 11
COOK COUNTY
WWW.VOLKSSKI.COM
Join the Volks Ski 400 during the 2012 Winter Tracks Festival and help collectively tackle all 400 km of North America’s largest groomed trail system in one day. Just select how you want to hit the trails (join a team, form a team or tackle a trail solo), pick a trail section, select a T-shirt size and pay the entry fee. Proceeds will be donated to the Children’s Nature Network.
Central Canada Outdoor Show
FEB. 2426
THUNDER BAY
WWW.TBCHAMBER.ON.CA
The Central Canada Outdoor Show is a familyfriendly pilgramage for all-season outdoor enthusiasts. Visitors will take in an exhibit hall, seminars and special events. Last year’s events included moose-calling and boat-building contests for kids, BMX demos and fishing seminars.
Sleeping Giant Loppet
MARCH 3
SLEEPING GIANT PROVINCIAL PARK
WWW.SLEEPINGGIANTLOPPET.CA
This year marks the 35th anniversary of the Loppet. The Woodymakeit Award will make a comeback--with a twist. For 2012, in recognition of the anniversary, every skier to complete 50 km on wood skis will receive an award. There will also be all-ages races and a retro ski fashion contest.
The Hit CBC Radio Show
by
Photo
Bruce J. Dynes
Wild Events Calendar
JAN 30
Arrowhead Ultramarathon I-Falls to Fortune Bay Casino www.ArrowheadUltra.com
JAN 30FEB 3
Snow Carving Symposium
Carvings on display Feb. 3-12 weather permitting Grand Marais arts@boreal.org
JAN 30FEB 5
Winter Plein Air
Painting Exhibit Exhibit on display Feb. 3-12 Grand Marais www.grandmaraisartcolony.org
Get Northern Wilds in your email inbox, browse it on your computer, smartphone, or view it on your tablet. Clickable links and a “zoom in” feature make the digital edition convenient and easy to read.
Modern Viking Voyages of the Leif Erikson & Roald Amundsen Ships 7-9 p.m. Canal Park Lodge, Duluth www.lsmma.com
FEB 10
Candlelight Ski and Snowshoe Jay Cooke State Park, Carlton 218-384-4610
Northern Fibers Retreat North House Folk School, Grand Marais www.northhouse.org
FEB 1519
46th Annual Duluth Boat
Sports Travel and RV Show Second Annual Northland Outdoors Deer Classic
Chuck Futterer Memorial Open Bonspiel Cook County Curling Club
Spring Carnival Papa Charlie’s, Lutsen www.lutsen.com
MAR 30 APRIL 1
Spring Home and Garden Show CLE Grounds, Thunder Bay 807-622-6473
For Two Germans, the Gunflint is “Like Home”
Last summer, the Northern Wilds office in Grand Marais had two surprise visitors: Gaby Würth and Werner Bahner of Freiburg, Germany. Longtime readers, they have been visiting the Gunflint Trail since 1996. Here is their story:
“In summer 1996 we travelled through California, where we bought a magazine about crosscountry skiing in the USA. There we saw an advertisement for the Golden Eagle Lodge. We phoned and rented a cabin for the first week of January, 1997. We didn´t know anything about Minnesota. For preparation we watched the movie "Fargo" and hoped to find as much snow as we saw in the movie. We celebrated New Year in New York, flew to Duluth, rented a car and drove to the Gunflint Trail.
“We were convinced we would stay at a resort with breakfast, lunch and dinner, spa and all comforts of life. We arrived at Golden Eagle at night. There was no snow, and at the cabin we realized that we had to be self-suppliers. We tried to make a fire, but all that happened was the smoke detector made an unbelievable noise. So we slept in the cold cabin.
“If you do cross-country skiing in Germany, you have hundreds of skiiers at the track, it is overcrowded, and the snow is often heavy and wet. But here in Minnesota it is powder and you are nearly alone on the trails. At this moment we fell in love with this part of the world.
“At the next morning we woke up and had a look at the trails: Nearly no snow, a lot of ice. We drove to Grand Marais to have breakfast and try to get the next plane back to Germany… Back in the cabin we were successful in making fire and it was warm and cosy. We had a great dinner at Trail Center and during the night it was snowing and snowing. The next morning there was one foot of fresh-fallen snow! We went out for skiing, it was gorgeous!
“Since this time we come nearly every Christmas/New Year to Golden Eagle. Starting the day with feeding the birds and watching them during breakfast, reading a good book, skiing on the wellprepared tracks or skating on the lakes or going for a snowshoe walk or hiking to the frozen waterfalls— that all is a wonderful experience. And for all our activities, Northern Wilds is an unrenounceable adviser.
“Every year, when we arrive at Golden Eagle, giving a hug to Dan and Teresa (Baumann,) it is like coming home. In 2003 we came for the first time in summer and started with canoeing, but that is another story.
“We have been travelling all over the world, but we come back to Gunflint Trail twice a year because it is such a special place.”
Mr. Bahner and Ms. Würth enjoy the lack of crowding on North Shore ski trails. | COURTESY OF WERNER BAHNER AND GABY WÜRTH
Cross-Country Kids
How to get ‘em hooked young
Story and photos by Eric Chandler
You want to take your kids cross-country skiing? Great! I have skiing kids of my own, so, naturally, I’m an expert. (Okay, my wife is. I just load skis into the truck.) Here is some field-tested advice on gear, trails, and creating good times for the rug rats.
EQUIPMENT
Kids should learn how to ski in the classical technique. Early in the game, waxless classical skis are the hassle-free way to go. Very young beginners will do fi ne with skis that just strap to any old pair of winter boots. If you buy a ski/boot/binding package, the most important part is the boots. They need to fit snugly so the young wearer can control his or her skis, but not so tight that they cause cold feet. Work with your local ski shop to fit equipment properly.
About poles, I will say four words: Leave them at home. The fi rst couple winters a kid goes skiing, poles are a distraction. The kid will learn more without them.
One last note about gear: Make sure children are dressed in layers. Kids cool off and overheat quicker than adults do because of their smaller mass. Check them often and adjust as necessary.
TRAILS
Choose trails carefully. You can make an easy trail hard, but you can’t make a hard trail easy. The main thing to remember is not to bite off more than you and the kids can chew. A short loop trail with a place to warm up is a sure winner.
So you’ve got your kids geared up at a trail. Make the transition from the car to skis as quick as possible. Kids’ attention spans are short. I like a short drive to the trailhead, with ski boots already on and the obligatory bathroom visit completed fi rst. I leap out and lay out everybody’s skis on the snow for them. We get the kids right from the car onto the skis and get moving! Without this “surgical strike” mentality, you can fl ail around for an hour before your fi rst stride.
The Chandlers make skiing a family activity. Both Chandler children have been skiing—and posing adorably for photos—almost since they could walk.
FUEL
No matter how stimulating the scenery or exhilarating the trail, kids can run out of energy. Plan for this possibility with a stash of let’s-keep-going bribes. We bring stuff like candy and hot chocolate.
If you normally have a fun-free diet, break the rules and put a few treats in your backpack. If the kids associate happiness and chocolate bars with the outdoors, it’ll be that much easier to pry them away from the video game console to ski in the future.
ATTITUDE
Don’t bring a “workout” mentality to the trails with your family. Just play! Remember that kids want to have fun, not “get mileage.” See who can go farthest down a hill. Play tag. See who can glide longest on one foot. Bushwhack off the trail and play follow-the-leader. Look for critter tracks. It took me years to figure out that kids don’t necessarily want to be Olympians. Sometimes the best part of a ski trip is building a snowman or sliding (sans skis) down a snow pile in the parking lot. Loosen up and embrace the experience.
Warm Up to Winter Camping
While some people react to the idea of winter camping with a reexive shiver, the truth is that camping out in the winter is just as fun and comfortable as a summertime excursion--as long as you’re prepared. Plus, skis and snowshoes let you explore uncharted territory and have places like the Boundary Waters virtually to yourself.
Here’s how to wring maximum joy out of winter: the fourth camping season.
On a February afternoon, three UMD students prepare for a snowshoe excursion after setting up camp on Boulder Lake, near Duluth | SHELBY GONZALEZ
CONFESSIONS
OF A Winter-Camping Convert
Story and photos by Shelby Gonzalez
Stupid class. Stupid cold. I should fake a sudden case of hantavirus.
I trudged across a wind-scythed winter landscape in borrowed snowshoes, considering ways to escape.
It was a February morning. My outdoor skills class at the University of Minnesota-Duluth had driven the 30odd minutes from Duluth to Boulder Lake. We donned skis and snowshoes and trekked across the frozen lake, carrying packs and hauling gear sleds called pulks, toward campsites where we would spend the night.
I was less than thrilled about this mandatory excursion, mainly because I was certain I would freeze solid overnight, like a Popsicle. They would have to chisel me out of my sleeping bag.
My group’s campsite was a clearing—actually a bay—blanketed with cattail-pierced snow. Aspen, cedar, pine and spruce trees sheltered it from the w ind, which made fi rebuilding easy. Setting up camp occupied a solid portion of the day.
Soon it was late afternoon. “I’m going to go dig my coffi n,” I announced.
I dragged myself away from the fi re, yanked a shovel from its upright perch in the snow, and marched into the woods.
fi re and melted part of my right boot.
Winter camping is all about warmth. You dress in multiple layers to retain body heat. You move to stay warm. You snack to maintain energy stores. And, if you’re like my group, you build a fi re and spend much of the afternoon and evening sitting by it, swapping stories and laughing.
And melting things. In 24 hours, we accidentally melted four water bottles, a boot sole, a bumper sticker, two Ziploc bags, and a tube of lip balm.
Snow trenches, or, more evocatively, “snow coffi ns,” are bodysized holes you dig out of the snow to sleep in. The side walls block the wind and the ground acts as an insulator. For my snow coffi n, I dug a depression roughly six feet long, three feet wide and a foot deep. Then I scurried back to the
As day faded into night, I discovered that, thanks to packing the right gear and doing the right things, I had stayed cozy and was actually enjoying the stark scenery and sense of aloneness. It felt like we were the last people on Earth.
Around 8 p.m., eyelids drooping, I used the burrito method to hunker down for the night. That is, I tucked a tarp into my trench, laid my sleeping pads and cold-weather sleeping bag in the middle, climbed in, and folded the tarp around myself. Snow would stay
out, heat would stay in.
I woke once. When I poked my face out of my cocoon, the wind had calmed. The night was still and serene. I was glad I hadn’t come down with anything.
Keep an eye on clothing and gear near the fire to minimize unintentional melting.
Despite appearances, this is a “snow coffin”—a one-person winter camping shelter—not a shallow grave.
Bundled-up UMD students flash grins during a February overnight trip to Boulder Lake, near Duluth.
Warm Skin
Protect exposed skin with a good moisturizer and as much coverage as you can manage. (Now’s the time to break out that balaclava.)
Try Warm Skin, a unique gel that offers a barrier to the cold and prevents moisture loss. Get some at Ely’s Piragis Northwoods Company. www.piragis.com
Snowshoes
Sleeping Bag
Smartwool Scarf
Okay, you don’t technically need a scarf to go camping, but why not look good and be warm, too? Actually, wearing a Smartwool base layer is a good idea for any winter activity. [Editor’s note: I’m wearing my beloved Smartwool half-zip shirt right now.] Find it at Long Lake’s Gear West Store. www.gearwest.com
Tent Stove
Whether you are in the wilderness or in a state park, snowshoes give you the opportunity to explore areas that are not easily accessible in the summer. Redfeather offers a complete line of snowshoes for all conditions. Check them out at Ely’s Piragis Northwoods Company. www.piragis.com
Cold-Weather
Camping Gear Guide
Backcountry Tent
Wilderness travelers like Eureka’s Alpenlite XT tent because it is lightweight and designed for extreme weather. Snag your own at Gear Up Outdoors in Thunder Bay. www.gear-up.com
Wall tents are large enough to allow the use of a small, wood-burning stove, offering comfortable warmth and an endless fuel supply. You can check out the Four Dog line of stoves at Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply in Grand Marais. www.stoneharborws.com
Backcountry Stove
The MSR WhisperLite is a reliable, lightweight choice for use in the wilderness. Operating on liquid fuel, the stove can boil a liter of water in under four minutes. Available at Gear Up Outdoors in Thunder Bay. www.gear-up.com
Chariot Carrier
Share the outdoor love with the next generation, whether you dig skiing, snowshoeing, winter camping or backyard snowmanbuilding. Tote young ‘uns with a Chariot Cross-Country Ski Kit. Similar to a pulk used to tow gear, a Chariot is designed to carry kids. See them at Gear West in Long Lake. www.gearwest.com
Wall Tents
A wall tent is almost like taking a cabin camping. Inside, you have room for a stove, living and cooking space, and cots. Scope out the Sno-Trekker line at Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply in Grand Marais. www.stoneharborws.com
Why Would Anyone Go Camping in the Winter?
It’s a fair question.
After all, the ground is blanketed with snow, nighttime temps may dip below zero and you can’t go swimming. So what’s the attraction?
“There’s no crowds and no bugs,” says Tom Surprenant at Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply.
Hmmm. Knowing there won’t be any mosquitoes or black flies is reason enough to pitch a tent. But Surprenant also says you can be very comfortable if you have the right gear. And by comfort, he means more than just staying warm at night. Using a wall tent and a good heater, you can relax in shirt sleeves.
“It’s really no different than summer camping,” he says.
Perhaps the best way to sample winter camping is on an outfitted excursion. Renting winter gear allows you to learn about setting up a comfortable camp without buying the equipment. This way you can learn about gear and make a better informed purchase if
you decide to add camping to your repertoire of winter activities. If you want to make your camping excursion nearly foolproof, consider hiring a guide.
Winter camping is often done in conjunction with other activities. Some folks like to ski or snowshoe to remote lakes and go icefishing. Others camp as part of a dog-sledding or wilderness skiing adventure. For starters, you may want to pick a campground at a state park or similar place where you can easily retreat to your vehicle if you decide the winter camping isn’t your cup of tea.
Until you gain some experience, don’t bite off more than you can chew. Keep your inaugural camping trips simple and focused on learning the basics of camping. Wait until you know the ropes before embarking on a big adventure. While a winter camping trip in the Northern Wilds is unlikely to spin dangerously out of control, you don’t want to be cold and miserable. After all, if you are not having fun, why go camping at any time of year?
—Shawn Perich
I knew it was a gift moments after we made eye contact. The red fox stared straight into my eyes, his body tense. We had stumbled upon each other at a bend in a trail.
I stood calmly, afraid any move would cause the fox to bolt. As we watched one another, I saw the fox relax.
Good fortune struck again. Though I could not hear it, the fox turned his attention to a rustling under the snow. Head cocked, ears perked, his tension returned, his full focus on what appeared to be blank snow.
The fox crouched, then launched himself into the air, arching his body, only to plummet face-fi rst into the deep snow. In a second he emerged with a vole, which he ate with great relish. My camera whirred. Perhaps it was because he had successfully hunted with me so near, or because he was a tolerant example of his species. Whatever the reason, this episode began a winterlong relationship between the fox and me in which he would frequently tolerate my trailing him. It was he, not I, that decided to make this relationship work.
The Fox and the Camera Hound Through My Lens
BY MICHAEL FURTMAN
At those times, when a wild animal’s tolerance allows me to peer into their otherwise hidden world, I feel honored. The honor doesn’t always come easy. I searched for the fox nearly every day, whether it was 20 below or 20 above, and would fi nd him only one out of three or four attempts. Even then, sometimes he just didn’t want me hanging out with him. I accepted that, kept trying, and eventually ended up with a selection of images of which I’m proud.
What kept me coming back in good weather and bad was not so much the chance of getting a decent photograph but the thrill of being able to watch this animal’s life. The real reason I photograph wildlife is not to sell the photos—though the sales are the means to my end—but to spend time in the woods, to see things few others will ever see, and to marvel at the
wonders that surround us.
Over the course of the winter, the fox grew calm enough to fall asleep with me mere yards away. I chuckled as I watched him trot amongst the legs of yarded whitetail deer, intent on rodents, the deer curious and alert. He was so successful hunting that he would often cache his catch, burying it delicately with muzzle and front paws.
Come January, I grew curious as he became obsessed with marking his territory, urinating on every stump, bush and rock. The reason was revealed when I saw him trotting alongside a mate. I smiled. Hunt. Eat. Sleep. Mate. I watched his life unfold. And although it was tempting, I never fed or otherwise tried to influence his behavior. I simply followed him. When I look back on the photos, I realize just how special that time was. The fox gained nothing by letting me tag along. But I gained much. In addition to some wonderful images and great memories, the fox taught me a simple lesson: tolerance allows many good things to happen.
Top: Even mid-leap, a red fox (Vulpes vulpes) is focused intently upon its target: a vole. Above: A successful pounce yields a vole entrée.
Canadian Trails
BY GORD ELLIS
Heading outside this winter? Don’t forget your cooking kit.
It’s true that cold weather presents obstacles to the wouldbe camp cook. Chilly hands fumble when handling food and steel pots. Stoves don’t work as well. Open fi res can be a pain to keep burning. Liquids and waterbased foodstuffs have a tendency to get solid.
I know from experience. Like many people in Northwest Ontario, I grew up cooking over open fi res in the winter. If you were ice fi shing, job one was to get the biggest rip-snorting fi re going you could.
One major upside of an open fi re is the warmth it provides on a cold day. That’s a treat, especially if you’re not moving around much. Also, I’ve had some very good outdoor fish fries in the winter
over an open fi re. Few things taste better than a freshly caught walleye or lake trout fi llet that’s been rolled in flour and thrown in a fry pan full of bubbling hot oil. Add a dash of salt and you have a dish fit for a king.
That said, a one-burner stove may be a more convenient cold-weather cooking option. The technology of outdoor cooking has really come a long way in the last few years. There are now dozens of light and portable one-burner stoves on the market. These stoves heat quickly, cook evenly, and take a wide variety of fuels. They’re also affordable, and last a long time with a minimum of maintenance. For the winter adventurer, they’re the most dependable choice for cooking.
There are a few things to keep in mind when looking at one-burner stoves. You need a tough, reliable stove that will heat water quickly and work well in low temperatures. Many campers prefer white gas or unleaded fuel in the winter. Propane also works well in the cold. Check to be sure that your fuel and your stove are compatible. Bring more fuel than you expect to use and store it in a fuel bottle with a spout. If you’re out
for a day in winter, you could use half a quart of fuel cooking dinner and heating up water. You’d use a quarter of that in the summer. If you have a propane stove, bring two extra canisters.
If you ask around, you’ll get a wide variety of opinions on what the best foods are to eat outdoors in the winter. My favourite right now is a venison smokie boiled to perfection and then popped into a steamed whole-wheat bun. On this goes some ketchup, mayo and onion, at which point nirvana is achieved.
It’s a simple lunch but very hearty. Most adults can easily eat two of these morsels. A hot cup of soup is always a welcome addition. There are a variety of dried soups that can be hydrated with boiling water. A can of brown beans goes well with fish. I’ve also had some very good old-fashioned coffee that was little more than a handful of grounds thrown into a can of boiling water over an open fl ame. Sprinkle a bit of snow in the can to sink the grounds and you’ve got serious brew.
Cold-weather cooking takes a little preparation, and some time out of the day, but it’s worth it.
extremestreams
One part Nordic tour, one part downhill slalom, all parts adventure
After I moved back to Minnesota from the Cascade Mountains, I prepared my quiver of skis for corduroy-smooth runs at Lutsen Mountains and the plethora of groomed classic tracks across the county. Soon, though, I craved something wilder.
FACING PAGE Stream skiing is a unique way to access and view the North Shore’s back country. ABOVE Adding to the challenge is the obstacles you enounter along a stream, ranging from open water to steep vertical drops.
Enjoy a day in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. Paddle the “Kelso Loop”three beautiful wilderness lakes in three hours. Lightweight canoe rental, maps, permits, and instruction available. (218) 663-7150 www.sawbill.com info@sawbill.com
What slaked my thirst for adventure was stream skiing, the North Shore’s version of backcountry ski touring. The North Shore boasts challenging stream descents with no crowds or chairlifts in sight. When the creeks and rivers that tumble into Lake Superior fi nally start to freeze and sufficient snow accumulates, these flows offer an off-the-beaten-trail way to enjoy skiing or snowshoeing up north.
An outing on one of the area’s nearly 100 different tributaries can be one part Nordic tour, one part downhill slalom, and all parts adventure.
Typically, these rivers meander from inland sources until they near the shore, at which point the topography changes dramatically, dropping the fi nal two miles to Superior’s edge—sometimes more than 700 feet. Here you’ll fi nd waterfall drops, cascading ledges and rugged slides covered with a layer of ice and snow suitable for skis or snowshoes.
With the backcountry feel comes obstacles and exposure. Just like runs at a ski hill, rivers have a rating of difficulty. No two are alike and one is never guaranteed to be the same from year to year. Snow and ice conditions shift. The waterfalls and plunges themselves do remain the same, though the skiable lines down each may not. Some river sections are un-skiable.
High falls, deep open-water pools, narrow slots
and fast currents are some of the major dangers on North Shore waterways. Portaging around hazards is sometimes an option. Some people rappel past them with harnesses and climbing equipment. Smaller rivers typically have more obstacles, like tree trunks, branches and rocks—though these can add a fun dimension, too. Many streams require detailed navigation (choosing your line) through certain sections. Your line may skirt open water or an ice shelf, or wind through a boulder field.
Some streams require an up-and-back approach from an access point (often along Highway 61). This gives you the advantage of being able to scout the river as you go. Other streams can be skied as point-to-point excursions, from inland road crossings down towards their mouths.
Local knowledge and scattered online references are your best bet for scouting streams; there is no guidebook.
Some things to keep in mind when venturin g onto a frozen river: Understand how rivers work, such as where the fast and slow water is, how deep the river is, and what the flow is like underneath the ice. Shelf ice is everywhere and may be feet above the actual water level.
I always bring a change of clothes, poles, a throw rope, and a partner. Let someone know where and when you’re going. Explore within your limits. And enjoy!
godly cold is to play in the snow. This winter, unfortunately, there’s barely enough snow to justify owning a shovel. Looking out the window at multi-thousand-dollar snowmobiles sitting like expensive paperweights on the trailer is just plain depressing.
Low-Snow Sledding
The easy answer is to bite the bullet and put the sleds back in storage. Yeah, right. As soon as the snow starts falling, you’ll be on the trails, trying to salvage what’s left of the winter.
Without consistent, season-long snowfalls, the trails won’t have much of a base of snow to support snowmobile traffic. Bare spots will be common. Exposed earth and vegetation, although seemingly frozen solid, are actually quite fragile; ride around these areas if possible to avoid damaging the ecosystem.
Take it easy on the throttle and brakes to leave a little snow on the trail for the sleds behind you. Avoid the temptation of ripping up, down and around to release pent-up excitement, because the ruts and destruction you create on trails--especially those running through private property--aren’t going to be nearly as impressive come spring thaw. In fact, such wanton environmental
How to make sure your snowmobile isn’t just a multi-thousand-dollar paperweight this winter
ruin is illegal on several levels. Also, if property owners discover a mess left by a bunch of inconsiderate sled jockeys, you may nd that section of trail closed next season.
Low snow warrants mechanical considerations. Owners of liquid-cooled snowmobiles have particular cause for caution. Liquid-cooled snowmobiles have an automotive-style cooling system, using heat exchangers instead of a radiator to cool the engine. Located on the underside of the sled, heat exchangers are long U-shaped pipes (within a thin-wall housing) connected to the engine’s cooling system.
By Lee Boyt
Owners of snowmobiles with air-cooled engines need not worry about their heat exchangers, as these machines use fans to blow cold ambient air around the engine.
Resources
International Association of Snowmobile Administrators (IASA) www.snowiasa.org
Minnesota DNR www.dnr.state.mn.us
Hot coolant flows from the engine, through the heat exchangers, and back to the engine. The heat exchangers dissipate the heat from the coolant with the snow spraying from the track. If you drive in places with little or no snow, the heat exchangers can’t do their job. The engine can overheat and selfdestruct, and then you’re really out of business.
Tread Lightly!® www.treadlightly.org
However, all sled owners need to think about the wear and tear that low-snow riding can infl ict on thei r machines. Snow lubricates and cools tracks, slides and slide rails (hi-faxes). Premature failure from heat, friction, and debris grinding away of these critical drivetrain components is a nearcertainty during extended operation in low-snow conditions. The skags/ski runners/wea r bars on the running surface of the skis take a beating under ideal circumstances. Dirt, gravel and pavement can erode the skags to the point that steering traction is compromised--the machine won’t stay hooked up in turns-which is unnerving at best and potentially fatal at worst.
So go ahead and play in what snow we have--but use your head. If you have to think about whether there’s enough snow to unload the sleds, there probably isn’t. If you decide to venture out anyway, go slow, smart and safe.
Learn About:
• The importance of a forest management plan
• How to choose a professional logger
• What makes a good timber sale contract
• Minnesota Certied Master Loggers
n Visit www.mlep.org or contact us today to receive additional information, a free Landowner’s Manual and resource directory.
On the Sharp End
Climber vs. Mind Monkey
On a subzero January morning, some climber friends and I stood at the foot of a lumpen icefall in Orient Bay, Ontario. The icefall is named Sycho Icycho and is rated WI (Water Ice) 2. Put another way, if it were a movie, it would be rated G. It looked like a melted wedding cake.
Miss Guided
BY SHELBY GONZALEZ
Still, at that moment Sycho Icycho was the scariest thing I’d ever seen. I was about to lead it. This would be my fi rst time leading.
In climbing parlance, leading means placing your safety gear as you climb instead of rigging it beforehand. If you fall while on lead, you fall twice the distance between your current position and the last piece of gear you placed. Also, if you placed said gear incorrectly or fell before placing gear at all, you could hit the ground. There’s a reason one slang term for leading is “being on the sharp end.”
Speaking of sharp ends, I was bristling with them. Since frozen waterfalls are slippery and rather lacking in handholds, ice climbers stab their own holds into the ice with a quiver of intimidating objects.
Grids of steel spikes called crampons bedecked my boots. Ice screws dangled from my harness, each one baring jag-
ged little teeth along the bottom rim. I was holding a pair of ice tools. (Imagine a cross between a hatchet and a bone saw.)
Stephen King once wrote an essay about ice tools for Outside Magazine. It includes the sentence, “I look at the DMM Predator ice ax and I think of murder.”
Looking upward, I was thinking of many things--murder not among them. A chorus of ambition, confidence, vanity and insecurity clamored in my mind.
You’re ready.
It’s too late to back out.
You have to do this.
You can’t.
You can.
Fear joined in. I imagined King-worthy scenarios in which I tumbled off Sycho Icycho and landed on my ice tools.
That wouldn’t happen, of course; the route is easy and I had sufficient skill to
You have to stay sharp to climb an ice wall. The sheer cliffs of the Nipigon River valley attract climbers who enjoy the challenge of climbing massive ice slabs.
climb it. But my lizard brain prefers the lurid to the logical. Impalement! it telegraphed. Imminent death! My adrenal glands helpfully spurted enough adrenaline to stun a walrus.
Some people meditate to hush their internal commentary track, which Buddhists term the “mind monkey.” I felt the urge to flee.
Instead, I sucked a chestful of artic air and went through safety checks with my belayer. Slammed one tool into the ice above my head. Then the other tool. Crampons next. My feet left the ground.
ABOVE The author conquered her fears to climb an ice wall and lay out a safety line for others to use.
The sharp end was a scalpel excising the unimportant. My awareness shrunk to sensory input: huffi ng breath, clammy skin, lactic-acid burn in forearms and calves, scrape and thud of gear biting ice. The peanut gallery went silent.
Up I climbed, graceless and still scared but no longer thinking about it. When I reached the top, a fierce joy flooded the space where doubt and fear had been.
Though this was my fi rst time leading, the sharp end felt familiar.
I had been there before and have been many times since--when I fi rst ran a rapid, stood on a snowboard, spoke in front of an audience. The sharp end is one step past your abilities.
The sharp end is anything that both scares and intrigues you.
Even if you feel comfortable with your life, dare your edges now and again. You might fi nd that afterward the world feels a little bit bigger.
Ibex Breakaway 2 Pant
Otter Box
NIPIGON Ice Climbing FESTIVAL
The Nipigon Ice Fest will be held Mar. 2-4. Festival events include climbing slide shows, a gear swap, door prizes and several ice climbing clinics on worldrenowned Nipigon area ice.
“We are enthusiastic to get the Nipigon Ice Fest back up and running. It’s been a couple of years off and we have been anxious to show off the worldclass climbing opportunities in Northwestern Ontario,” says Kara Bremer, Nipigon Ice Fest coordinator.
For those interested in participating in a clinic or any of the other events can register online at www.nipigonicefest. com. Climbing gear will be available for rent and there will be climbing gear company representatives on site throughout the festival to show off their goods. A list of area accommodations and restaurants are also listed on the website.
I can stop looking—I’ve finally found THE crosscountry ski pant. The Ibex Breakaway 2 Pant blends new soft shell technology with the old-school standby: temperature regulating and stink-fighting wool. These formfitting pants feature Climawool softshell panels on the front (a stretchy, breathable, wind- and water-resistant blend of nylon and wool), while the back is a plush wool knit. So far this winter I’ve used them in a range of conditions across the upper Midwest. From stride skiing on mild, sunny afternoons to skate skiing on subzero, blustery mornings (with a light baselayer), I pretty much forgot I had them on--a testament to their impeccable fit and comfort. The pants are simple and sleek with a high elastic waist to lock out cold air, generous ankle zips for easy wear over boots, one zipper pocket and reflective detailing. Added bonus: they’re made in Canada. MSRP $225. More info at www.ibex.com.
—Kate Watson
Goodbye Girl Ponytail Hat
Exercising girls (and some boys) with long hair wear pony tails. Now instead of an awkward bulge under their winter hats, ponytails are free to drift in the wind through an ingenious integrated loop. Heads and ears are snugly protected beneath a colorful, warm layer of water-resistant Polartec® fleece. www.trailheads.com Assorted colors. Retails for $26 —Amber Pratt
Jetboil Sol Advanced Cooking System
The aforementioned qualities in the Jetboil Sol Advanced Cooking System makes super-economic use of fuel, with the smallest fuel canister (100 g) cooking about three days’ worth of breakfast, coffee and dinner. The stove includes a locking pot support that allows you to use larger pots and pans. All components, including the fuel canister, stow away nicely within the lightweight aluminum cooking vessel.
—Shelby Gonzalez
Everyone “otter” have an Otter Box. The company makes a selection of waterproof containers for carrying just about anything you want to keep safe and dry. The Otter Box 2500, shown here, has plenty of room to carry a cell phone, pocket camera and other small items. It’s convenient to keep in the cab of a pickup. The plastic latches are somewhat difficult to open, but are not a drawback for a waterproof container. Otter Box also makes protective cases for most popular brands of smart phones, notepads and similar devices. Go to www.otterbox.com —Shawn Perich
ClipLit
Long winter nights leave all of us fumbling for keyholes. ClipLit from Nite Ize, Inc. attaches to your key ring to provide a ready source of light. About the size of a quarter, Clip Lit has a built in carabiner you can snap to zipper pulls, backpacks, key rings or any place you need a small light. A small lithium battery provides 24 hours of continuous power to the LED. Learn more at www. NiteIze.com —Shawn Perich
Arctic Sport Mid Muck Boots
When I used to think about rubber boots, four things came to mind: waterproof, clunky, ugly and no traction. Except for being 100% waterproof, these Arctic Sport Mid Muck Boots couldn’t be further from that notion. Not only do these boots fit well on my feet, but they have excellent traction -- I don’t feel like I’m going to slip and slide while out walking my dog. Comfortable, easy to take on and off, and very warm, these boots have become my go-to pair as I head out the door. Comes with a dark rubber bottom with a choice of four colored uppers. Sizes include women’s 6-13. www.muckbootcompany.com The boot retails for $144.95. —Amber Pratt
Game Changers
One of the best parts of gardening is that you can change your game every year if you want.
the Accidental Gardener
BY JOAN FARNAM
Last year, for example, I tried w inter seed sowing, and it worked just great. I cut onegallon milk jugs in half, keeping the handle intact, fi lled the bottom with starter soil, added cool-weather seeds---cilantro and lettuce-sealed up the milk jugs with duct tape, punched a few holes in them and then put them in a sunny corner of the yard in late February. Within a couple of weeks, the seeds had sprouted. By early May they were ready for harvest. It was pretty amazing to be snipping off fresh cilantro a month before anything could be planted in the ground.
This year, I plan to add to my repertoire. I’m going to set aside a small plot in my garden and try square-foot “lasagna” gardening. I’m also planning to expand my selection of season-extenders to include a cold frame.
There are all kinds of ways to build one, and they really do add weeks to your growing season. They also can provide badly needed warmth for vegetables like tomatoes and peppers.
Molly and Ken Hoffman, who live just
outside Grand Marais on Good Harbor Hill, have been growing their own food for years. They have lots of fruit trees and berry bushes and great garden plots, as well as a hand-dug root cellar.
But even in their protected area in what we call “the banana belt,” a microclimate of warmth that runs just below the fi rst ridges up from Lake Superior, growing tomatoes and peppers has always been iffy. So, they designed their own portable cold frame, using 2- by 8-foot rough-sawn cedar boards for the long sides and 2-foot by 30-inch side boards to create the box. They then attached 2-foot pieces of Plexiglas to the sides of the box, creating a perfect growing environment for peppers and tomatoes.
LEFT A cold frame allows you to extend your gardening season. Kale and parsley here are being harvested in late November. ABOVE This insulated cold frame with a sliding cover is designed to be easier for children to use.
Molly said that Plexiglas has become very expensive these days. “But you could use greenhouse plastic.”
They use a breathable plastic for the top of the box, and have tarps to cover it on freezing nights. They plant their pepper and tomato plants in the box on May 15, a full month before it’s safe to put them directly into the garden, and they reap the rewards every season. One other nice thing about the box--it can be taken apart each fall and stored for the winter.
Nancy Haarmeyer and Tom McCann live in a true Zone 3 above Grand Marais. They have discovered that a cold frame designed by Cook County extension agent
Diane Booth and her husband—meant for children’s gardens—works well for them, too. The cold frame has insulated sides and windows that slide back and forth on the top, rather than up and down, which makes it safer for children, Booth said. It also makes it easier to regulate the heat in the cold frame. The size of the cold frame depends on the size of the top windows. Nancy said she was amazed at how well it worked. “It was really fun,” she said, and well worth the investment. Booth says she will gladly share the plans with the public. Call her at 218-387-3015 or e-mail her at diane.booth@co.cook.mn.us.
By Deane Morrison
UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA STARWATCH
As winter wanes, several planets liven up the lingering darkness.
On Feb. 1, Mars rises in the east about three hours after sunset, but by March it comes up just after sundown. Its ruddy glow ornaments the space below the triangle of stars in the hindquarters of Leo, the lion.
Earth laps Mars in the orbital race on Mar. 3, and two days later our planets pass just 63 million miles from one another. Mars’ brightness then will rival that of Sirius, the brightest star, a beacon in the south near Orion. Also, in early March, Jupiter hangs above brilliant Venus, an evening “star” in the west. Venus climbs past Jupiter in the second week of March and ends the month as high as it ever gets.
Saturn rises in the east shortly before midnight on Feb. 1, but just over an hour after sunset by the end of March. The ringed planet closely trails Spica, the brightest star in Virgo.
On clear, moonless nights in late February, look for a faint, broad fi nger of light pointing back along the sun’s path an hour or two after sunset. This is the zodiacal light, a reflection of sunlight off a disc of dust that stretches far into space in the plane of the solar system.
February’s full moon rises at 5:32 p.m. on Feb. 7—within two hours of exact fullness, so it will be a beauty. March’s full moon shines the night of Mar. 8. And, last but not least, spring arrives with the equinox at 12:14 a.m. on Mar. 20.
The University of Minnesota-Duluth offers public viewings of the night sky at its Marshall W. Alworth Planetarium. For more information and viewing schedules, visit www.d.umn.edu/planet. Find U of M astronomers and links to the world of astronomy at www.astro.umn.edu.
Amazing Gulls, Acrobats of the sky and sea
By Marlin Bree
MARLOR PRESS $10.95
Marlin Bree finds wonder in a bird many folks take for granted. This tribute to gulls looks at their natural history, interactions with humans and the lore associated with the birds. With photos and drawings on every page, Amazing Gulls is a visual delight. Although by no means a traditional bird guide, anyone who enjoys birds will like this book.—Shawn Perich
Growing Shrubs and Trees in Cold Climates
By Debbie Lonnee, Nancy Rose, Don Selinger and John Whitman
UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA PRESS
$39.95
A hefty compendium containing more than 950 varieties of trees and shrubs for cold climates, this book has a clean layout that makes it remarkably easy to use. Color photography shows the flowers and foliage of many varieties. Specific information about how to plant and care for each variety is included, as well as a general section with chapters for planting, propagation, pests and other topics. Backyard horticulturists throughout the Northern Wilds will find this is the gold standard for information about trees and shrubs.—Shawn Perich
A View of the Lake
By Beryl Singleton Bissel LAKE SUPERIOR PORT CITIES, INC.
$16.95
An urban immigrant to a lake home in the small North Shore community of Schroeder, the author writes short vignettes about her new lifestyle. Walks in the woods, kind neighbors, cold weather and picking berries are among her topics.—Shawn Perich
RECREATION
Free Shipping on New Canoes or pick up in Ely, MN and get $100 off Lightweight Kevlar Canoes.
Ask about Kayaks for your cabin.
800-223-6565
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Campers, Fisherman! Complete Winter Outfitting! SnowTrekker tents with stoves, skis, snowshoes, fish houses, toboggans & everything else you need for a Fun Winter Adventure! Visit-www.thecanoeist.com or call-218-834-3523
For information about placing your classified ad, contact Amber at apratt@northernwilds.com
Legendary Ladies Lakehead
divas palled around with Greta Garbo and John
Wayne
During the Golden Age of Hollywood, from roughly the 1930s through the ‘50s, four women from the Lakehead achieved international fame. (The Lakehead is the name used collectively for Port Arthur and Fort William, now called Thunder Bay.)
Two became Hollywood divas. One became part of Europe’s wealthy elite, socializing with the likes of Winston Churchill and Sir Laurence Olivier. Another was hailed as one of the world’s most beautiful women. Today their achievements, tragedies and glories are largely forgotten.
Here are their stories.
Strange
BY ELLE ANDRAWARNER
'Child Darling' to Leading Lady
Born in Fort William in 1914, Cecilia Parker showed early promise as a “star pupil” of dance instructor Grace Ensworth. Newspapers called her the “child darling of Fort William entertainment.” At age 18 she starred with legend-
Learn more about what our community has to offer, including
...a Superior Treasure
ary John Wayne in the western The Rainbow Trail. She appeared in 60 movies between 1934 and 1962. She was John Wayne’s leading lady in Hollywood’s fi rst musical western, “Riders of Destiny;” Greta Garbo’s younger sister in “The Painted Veil;” and, later, Mickey Rooney’s older sister in the “Andy Hardy” movie series.
Cecilia married actor Dick Baldwin and retired from acting in 1942, although she took occasional roles until 1962. She died in 1993 at age 79.
Teenage Superstar
Barbara Read was born in Port Arthur in 1917. Her greatgrandfather was Minnesota senator, Harry Burkhardt, a Swiss immigrant to the U.S. who later founded the famous Burkhardt Brass Band of Wabasha County. Barbara was discovered by Hollywood when she was going to school and living with her aunt in California. She was 19 years old when her fi rst movie, “Three Smart Girls,” catapulted her and costar Deanna Durbin to stardom. Between 1936 and 1947, Barbara made 21 feature fi lms, the last one a western called “Coroner Creek.”
In 1947, Barbara left behind her movie career to focus on her art and family. She had four children from two marriages. Unfortunately, health issues plagued her, and in 1963, at the age of 46, she took her own life.
|
I asked her eldest son Damon Josephy what he wanted people to remember about his mother.
“That she was beautiful,” he said. “She had a wonderful spirit that carried her through the times when she was not fi ghting demons. She was an incredibly creative individual, a passionate artist who was a poet, actress, sculptor and painter.”
European Elite
Irene Boycun gave up a promising musical career to become Lady Alexandria Korda. Born in 1929, the daughter of Ukrainian immigrant farmers in Fort William, she changed her name after high school graduation to Alexandria (or “Alexa”) and headed to Europe with dreams of becoming a star. In England, she met, fell in love with, and married the famous movie producer Sir Alexander Korda. She was 24, he was 60. When he died in 1956, Lady Korda become a wealthy woman, but she had paid a price: during their marriage, she had started taking powerful doses of prescription drugs.
Alexa made world headlines when she remarried, this time wedding a wealthy British insurance broker named Patrick Metcalfe. They had three children before divorcing in 1964. Two years later, at age 37, Alexa was found dead. An inquest put the blame on her doctor for “grossly over-prescribing.”
Beautiful” Director
The fourth woman, Olga Landiak, was a Ukrainian farmer’s daughter from Fort William. After winning a major acting award, she moved to England, where she continued her professional acting career. She moved back to Canada in 1954 as a director for the Stratford Shakespeare Festival.
While in England, Olga had met British photographer Nicholas Egon, who immediately selected her as one of 48 women from around the world for his book “Beautiful Women of Our Time.” Olga later returned to Northwestern Ontario and wrote a number of books, plays and newspaper columns.
Tales
TOP Cecelia Parker gained acclaim at a young age and starred in a John Wayne movie when she was just 18 years old. She went on to appear in 60 movies during her career. ABOVE Barbara Read also achieved famed at a young age and made 21 films in her decade-long acting career.
PHOTOS FROM THE AUTHOR’S COLLECTION.
Look Who’s Squawking Quoth
the raven,“No trespassing”
One Sunday, my mother and I drove to v isit her friend Mrs. Rivard. Mrs. Rivard was well into her 80s that summer. She ran a small resort called Camp Rivard, located a few miles south of town on Birch Lake.
When we arrived at her home, she was in the living room doing a headstand. She neatly fl ipped over on her hands. The next thing I knew, she was standing upright and extending her hand to me. “You must be Michael.”
“Yes, ma’am,” I answered, mouth agape.
Just then, there was a knock at the kitchen door. Mrs. Rivard opened the door and in walked a resort guest, a good-sized man who took his hat off when he entered the kitchen.
“I don’t know how to tell you this, Mrs. Rivard, but there’s a thief in camp.” He explained that his wedding band and watch had gone missing.
“I believe I know who has taken your things,” she said. “Follow me, please.”
She led us outside, to the back of the garage, where there was a large wooden box mounted on a post about four feet off the ground. On the front of the box, a platform and a wooden dowel extended outward, while a hole about six inches in diameter opened inward.
a treat. He thanked her.
Mrs. Rivard got Blackie a few years earlier, she told me. A logger had cut down a tree with a raven’s nest in it. Two of the chicks were killed, but the third survived. The logger brought the chick to her and she raised it by hand.
Campfire Stories
IRON MIKE HILLMAN
A raven emerged from the hole and stood on the platform, looking her in the eye.
“Hello,” the raven said.
I couldn’t believe my ears. I’d heard it said that ravens could talk, but I never really believed it.
Mrs. Rivard talked to the raven as if he were a person. “Blackie, Mr. Anderson is missing a watch and ring. Do you know where they are?”
Blackie hopped onto the dowel and looked away. “No.”
“Are you sure? Do you mind if I have a look?”
“No trespassing, no trespassing,” he fi red back.
Despite his protests, Mrs. Rivard opened the door on the back of the box. Inside, she found a shiny gold watch and a ring. She removed them, closed the box and gave
“Sometimes I wonder if he has any idea that he’s a raven,” she mused.
Blackie’s theft of shiny objects became part of Camp Rivard’s charm. “I have people who come to visit me and bring their children and grandchildren just so they can leave something on the window ledge for Blackie to steal.”
I was so taken by Blackie that I told my dad I would rather visit Camp Rivard than go fishing. Mrs. Rivard was busy with the resort during the summer, so I agreed not to bother about Blackie until the season slowed down and she had time for company. I will always remember the morning I called and told her that we were coming for a visit. I asked if there was anything special I could bring Blackie.
There was a pause from the other end of the phone. Mrs. Rivard said gently that Blackie had disappeared.
“One day Blackie was home, and the next morning he was gone. I hope he found a girlfriend and has fi nally realized he’s a raven.”
We visited Camp Rivard for many summers after that, but it was never the same. Once when I was fishing, a big old raven perched in a nearby pine. Just before he flew, I thought I heard him say hello, but that might have been only wishful thinking.
