journeys of flavour MAGAZINE WINTER 2019
HAUTE
a first for Africa – Duvel on Tap
TRAVEL PROPERTY CUISINE DRINKS FAVOURITES READS PRODUCTS
it's all about the plate
Osaka
kitchen of Japan
Contents
Amuse bouche
Amuse bouche
WELCOME TO WINTER AND THE UMAMI EDITION OF THE GOURMET GUIDE. WRAP UP WARMLY, GRAB A CUP OF HOT CHOCOLATE (OR SOMETHING STRONGER) AND SETTLE DOWN TO SAVOUR EVERY PAGE… THEN GET UP AND GET COOKING!
Welcome from the editor 3
Haute travel
Osaka, kitchen of Japan 4 Kanazawa – where culture, charm and cuisine unite 12
Haute property
DW Eleven-13 – a decade of dedication 20 KLEIN JAN – under the Kalahari sky 26
Haute specials
Winter specials around South Africa 30
Haute cuisine
Rated chefs from the 2019 JHP Gourmet Guide™ share their recipes 36
Haute ingredients
What’s fresh and in season 46 Pairing umami flavours with wine 48
Haute performance
What's on a plate? 50 La Grande Maison – five-star service 52
Haute drinks
Duvel on Tap at the tip of Africa 56
Haute favourites
A sommelier and chef share a few of their favourite things 60
Haute reads
PLATE by Marlene van der Westhuizen 64 The Inside Job by Sandalene Dale Roberts 68
Haute products
Mervyn Gers Ceramics 70
Content and contributors • Jenny Handley • Natalie Brock • Wilna Combrinck • Newton Cross • Marlene van der Westhuizen Cover image Andre du Plessis Mervyn Gers Ceramics Contact details P.O. Box 32216, Camps Bay, 8040 +27 437 0334 | rsvp@jhpr.co.za www.gourmetguide.co.za jhp_gourmet_guide jenny_handley Jenny Handley Performance Management Stock images from unsplash.com Icons, page 10 and 11: Aeroplane created by Creaticca Creative Agency, takoyaki, ramen, sake, tea and shrine by Supalerk Laipawat. All from the Noun Project.
Umami is the taste on everyone’s lips, let’s explore it together. Every edible journey starts with anticipation. My anticipation for Japan began with the once-in-alifetime meeting with the one-and-only Nobu (Nobuyuki Matsuhisa). Celebrating a decade of dining excellence at Nobu at the One&Only Cape Town in the V&A Waterfront was the reason for his visit. Imagine my surprise when instead of answering my questions, he fired a few at me! He was fascinated that Cape Town does not have a fish market like Japan and was curious about how we approach sustainability and seasonality. Japan gave me new insights into diet, longevity, respect and culture. I hope that you enjoy reading my account of the street food and starred-foods. Many chefs are heading to Tokyo to eat at the city that boasts 230 Michelin-star restaurants. It is here that they truly learn about provenance, simplicity and presentation. I asked chef Wes Randles of The Shortmarket Club how his recent trip redefined his outlook on food. “It was not only the cuisine that inspired me, it was how they run a business – restaurants streamline skills so that fewer, but better -skilled hands come into contact with food. As chefs we need to look for talent and develop it, not simply develop our own,” he states. As chefs return, inspired, they sharpen their knives – you too can be the
proud owner of a Japanese knife – flip to the page for details of how to win one from WAZA. Here it’s all about the beer – how wonderful to be applauding Duvel as they unveil their first Duvel on Tap in Africa. Rejeanne Vlietman of Den Anker Restaurant and the Belgian Beer Company took time to suggest beer pairings for all our delicious recipes from the rated and plated restaurants – do try them together. We are delighted and honoured to welcome chef and cookbook author Marlene van der Westhuizen to our team. In addition to reviewing restaurants, in this edition Marlene met up with our very own Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen (no relation, but good friends!), as he divulges his exciting plans. Marlene has also shared some superlative recipes from her latest book – and you could win one of two copies. Another globe trotter and professional is Newton Cross of the SA Butler Academy, who put pen to paper for us after an unforgettable French gastronomic experience. Local artisan and businessman Mervyn Gers shares his trade secrets, and we get a sommelier and chef to do the same in ‘A few of my favourite things’. We would like you to tell us what a few of your favourites things are – let us know how you like these pages, and we will promise to dish up some more in the Spring edition. Meanwhile, eat, drink and stay warm.
Jenny Handley
Osaka 5
kitchen of Japan
Jenny Handley travelled to the dignified land of the cherry blossom to taste umami.
Images by Jenny Handley
OSAKA IS WHERE YOU CAN TRULY TASTE JAPAN. HERE YOU FIND SOUL FOOD, FROM CAREFULLY CRAFTED SUSHI TO IMPECCABLE KOBE BEEF. THE SECOND-BIGGEST CITY IN JAPAN, IT IS KNOWN AS THE NATION’S KITCHEN, ORIGINALLY THE SEAT OF THE RICE TRADE. IN THIS ENERGETIC, INDUSTRIALIZED CITY YOU EAT UNTIL YOU DROP. THE LOCALS HAVE A TERM FOR IT ‘KUIDAORE’, MEANING ‘TO RUIN ONESELF BY EXTRAVAGANCE IN FOOD’. Arriving in Osaka is easy, departing from Kansai International Airport daunting. Once you get the hang of it, the Japanese rail system is streamlined and simple, but initially looking at the maze of stations on the map, one can be overwhelmed. Colour-coded, with signage in English, it is efficient and eventually, unintimidating. Queues naturally form, thousands of people move through a station in unison, and if ever in doubt,
commuters are happy to stop and assist. It’s at the stations that you can often get the best food – from market fare to Michelin-starred restaurants. Staying opposite Kuromon Ichiba Market was sensible, after crossing the road a new culinary world welcomed us with open arms on our first night. We wandered down the walkways crammed with delicious and not-so-delectable looking ingredients, overwhelmed by the sights. Everything is pristine, beautifully displayed and smells enticing, so we immediately began to indulge in traditional treats like takoyaki. This is a small deep-fried batter ball filled with octopus. Best eaten with your mouth open, we were told, as these flour-based bites, turned with chopsticks in trays, are super-hot. After the war relief aid sent in flour, it was mixed with leftovers to form this savoury dish, and it has become a standard snack. Other notable dishes that Osaka is famous for are hako zushi – hot layers of ingredients
HAUTE TRAVEL
6 pushed into a box to make it portable, kitzune udon – soup noodles with tofu, and yakiniku – small pieces of beef grilled tableside. To get our bearings we simply pushed ‘going’ on the Facebook page of the ‘Free walking tour of Osaka’. The next morning, we were joined by another 20 intrepid travellers from all over the globe at the designated meeting point, to meet Masa, our guide. This gentleman was born in Osaka, left to study in the US and stayed there for 20 years. Returning to Osaka at the end of 2017, he proudly unveils the culture and cuisine for tourists. Children cleaning their own schools (there's no cleaning staff) translates into no litter, cleanliness is ingrained in them, as are the morals of dignity, respect and humility. In general men are devoted to work outside the home and women to childrearing. In addition to giving perspective, history and humour, Masa taught us how to arrive in a restaurant and say 'Itadaki masu' (easy way of remembering it is to say “I eat a
duck and a mouse too”, meaning ‘I humbly receive’) and when leaving, 'Gochisosama' (‘thanks for the feast’). We explored the Dotonbori area, where the nightlife and restaurants are intertwined, then Nipponbashi, Shinsekai and Den-Den Town, which is bursting to the seams with popular pachinko, the Japanese mechanical game arcades. It was to Dotonbori that we returned that evening, to have our first okonomiyaki. It’s a famous dish, fried on a flat plate, comprising cabbage, egg and our choice of shrimp, octopus or prawn, covered in a sauce of Worcestershire and tomato, topped with Japanese mayo and bonito flakes that gently sway in the breeze. Sublime. But it was the white strawberries, beautifully packaged as with all Japanese fare, the ideal gift, that caught my eye, and became my treat (a small dish costs 500 yen, approximately R70!). The Japanese are enthusiastic gift-givers, and in the pursuit of perfection in this, as with all other activities, it is safe to choose fruit because it cannot clash with décor!
Window-shopping is affordable, everything beckons to be bought, but the highlight of my retail rendezvous was kitchen equipment, most specifically Japanese knives. HAUTE TRAVEL
My man treated himself to a skewer of Kobe beef, eye-wateringly expensive at 3000 yen but a worthy investment. This was followed by sharing a red bean crumpet whilst walking down the longest shopping street in Japan, called Tenjimbashisuji, before exploring Osaka Castle and seeing the last of the cherry blossoms. Timing your visit to coincide with the cherry blossoms is challenging as the season is slightly unpredictable. This year the Spring sakura zensen (cherry blossom front) was early, but we still managed to see the last blossoms on the trees, and others gently losing them to the ground to create a carpet of pink or white. The Japanese revere cherry blossoms for their symbolic reminder of evanescent beauty, because life is fragile and fleeting and every moment should be cherished. Hanami (cherry blossom parties) are held countrywide as the blossoms open from South to North.
make | work | grow | cook | eat WAZA is an online shop specialising in quality Japanese household goods for the South African market. Inspired by the Japanese approach of monozukuri, a concept that translates as the ‘art, science and craft of making things’, they work directly with Japanese business partners and family businesses to source and import a unique range of products.
Window-shopping is affordable, everything beckons to be bought, but the highlight of my retail rendezvous was kitchen equipment, most specifically Japanese knives. They are the crucial weapon for any chef. Watching them in action in the market brought the theatre of food to life. It was to the market that we returned, daily, always discovering a new treasure, every bite to be savoured, tastes of which will live on in my heart forever. To get top quality knives and Japanese products in South Africa, visit www.wazashop.co.za or to win your very own Japanese Tadafusa HK-4 Gyuto knife see page 9.
WIN! A JAPANESE TADAFUSA HK-4 GYUTO KNIFE See the competitions page on our website for details.
10
11
Top seven Japan plans IN JAPAN YOU WILL NOTICE THAT SETS, LIKE TEA-SETS, GLASSES OR CROCKERY, ARE ALWAYS SOLD IN ODD NUMBERS THAT CANNOT BE DIVIDED INTO TWO. THIS IS OF EXTREME IMPORTANCE WHEN GIVING A WEDDING GIFT.
1 Hands-free luggage travel is a must – send your suitcase onto the next city from the local supermarket or your hotel. Train stations are busy places and it is advisable to be hands-free! https://www.jnto.go.jp/ hands-free-travel/ to point one
6
5
You will be given an oshibori (wet cloth) on arrival, it is for wiping your hands.
In addition to free walking tours in most cities there are exciting day tours and longer itineraries. https://en.japantravel.com/
1
Some restaurants need to be booked well in advance, and if they do not welcome Westerners because they cannot give you the ultimate experience due to language barriers, get your concierge or a local to do it for you.
6 To truly experience Japanese culture, indulge in a tea ceremony, stay in a traditional ryokan, and relax in a local onsen (bath).
Do not walk into a restaurant, wait to be welcomed in.
On your last day in a city you can leave your luggage at your hotel and they will send it to the airport.
Know that innocent-looking croissants may be filled with red bean paste or something hot!
4
Buy a Japan Rail pass, expensive but it negates the need of airline travel and the time-wasting that accompanies it. There is nothing as efficient as Tokyo Rail. It also covers some local train lines, ferries and buses. https://www.japan-rail-pass.com/
4
3
Osaka
3
Emirates fly from South Africa via Dubai. For this and other options contact Sure Kloof Travel. https://sureklooftravel.co.za/
2
Kanazawa
2
7 Pour drinks for the person with you before pouring for yourself.
8
Order drinks first, and only when you have those, your food.
9 Calling ‘sumimasen’ is how you get service. You can tell the chef what you want to spend (probably about 5000 yen per person) and they can bring you a selection of food.
Chopsticks (hashi) are obligatory – use the thin end for eating, the thicker end for dishing up.
7 Always wear clean socks with no holes – in many restaurants, temples and shrines you will need to remove your shoes.
HAUTE TRAVEL
5
Don’t use chopsticks to pass food to another or leave them standing up in a bowl – these have funeral implications.
10
It is considered good manners to finish all food, and slurping of noodles and liquid, complimentary.
Japanese foodie rules HAUTE TRAVEL
TWO TIMES FIVE!
13
Kanazawa – where culture, charm and cuisine unite
Images by Jenny Handley
Jenny Handley detoured to Kanazawa for an unforgettable gourmet experience between alps and ocean.
HAUTE TRAVEL
14 WHEN A CHEF OF THE STATURE OF PETER TEMPELHOF (OF FYN, RELAIS & CHÂTEAUX AMBASSADOR, CULINARY DIRECTOR OF ELLERMAN HOUSE AND FORMER CHEF OF THREE-PLATED GREENHOUSE) TELLS YOU TO DETOUR TO KANAZAWA, YOU LISTEN. WHEN HE OFFERS TO ORGANIZE A MEETING AND MARKET TOUR WITH AN ICONIC CHEF, YOU SWIFTLY CANCEL ALL ACCOMMODATION AND PLAN AGAIN. At two-Michelin-starred Zeniya there is Japanese signage and no evidence of accolades, illustrating Japanese humility. Chef Shin-ichiro Takagi’s mother, beautifully attired in traditional dress, welcomed us in rudimentary English with a glass of sake, then tea, saying ‘kampai’ (cheers). Seated at the eight-seater counter we watched two chefs deftly at work with their gleaming knives, eager for the start of our kaiseki dinner.
Shin popped out of the prep kitchen like a genie and introduced the first of our many courses. A square black tray with the most exquisite crockery bowl, with a green leaf topped with local red snail that had been quickly tossed in vinegar, was placed before us with chopsticks resting on an ancient Ming leaf. A local fish (like grouper) with scarce mushrooms in a miso broth boasting true umami, were delicately topped with a baby leaf of Japanese pepper. Shin leant forward to lift my lid to expose not only an intoxicating aroma, but delicate gold leaf etched on lacquerware, explaining that 99% of gold leaf in Japan comes from Kanazawa. These eye-catching bowls were commissioned by his father before he died, and they took so long to produce that he never saw them. When Shin uses them now, he is paying homage to his heritage. Next up, a trio of sashimi – local snail, sea bream and prawn – served in a Ming dynasty bowl from 300-years-ago, with the tiniest tomatoes.
The relationship between container and contents is of paramount importance to Shin, the connectivity and harmony obvious. HAUTE TRAVEL
The relationship between container and contents is of paramount importance to Shin, the connectivity and harmony obvious. Next? An ornate round glass plate smoked eel glistening in bronze hue dressing appeared (two kinds of dashi, sake, two types of sugar and fish bones providing umami flavour). Shin carefully shaved truffle as a topping to a dish incredible in its simplicity. The piece d’resistance was his hassan, an artful combination of subtle, miniature ingredients served together to celebrate sakura (a flowering cherry tree). These included small eel with soy, octopus, lily bulb, karasumi (fish roe salted and dried), sea bream and plum, taranome (a wild mountain vegetable that is boiled in salt water with a dash of dashi, salt, and light soy), and half a boiled egg, All components have similar taste and texture, but he carefully varies sweet and salty. The dance now took smaller steps, into a dish of a soft fish (like perch), with chopped baby leaf of Japanese pepper, before Noto beef from Kanazawa. This is a real treat as there are only six farmers producing 600 animals so only certain customers can get it. Comfort food next – rice (cooked with dashi, sake and light soy) with sea trout and bamboo shoots, onion and baby Japanese pepper – of which I unashamedly accepted seconds! Fresh fruit – the sweetest strawberries and mango – was simply served with a brown-sugar ice cream. A traditional pancake (cooked in front of us) with a leaf wrapping a filling of sweetened red bean paste,
“The market is not about buying produce; it’s about getting ideas and being with the suppliers.”
19 served on a small lacquered plate with green matcha tea, brought an epicurean adventure, paired with sake, to a close. After presenting Shin with a copy of the JHP Gourmet Guide™ in thanks, he came out from behind the counter and took us outdoors. He personally saw us into our taxi, shook hands and said goodbye, bowing, thanking us for visiting his restaurant. Truly our pleasure! And then the ultimate treat…at 8h00 the next morning Shin arrived at our hotel to whisk us to bustling Omichi Market. Those in the know buy from the wholesalers in kilograms from as early as 4.30am, locals and tourists buy by the basket, later. We stepped gingerly on wet floors to have the various fish explained, some in polystyrene containers, others still swimming in tanks. It was obvious by the respect shown that Shin can obtain premium produce. “The market is not about buying produce; it’s about getting ideas and being with the suppliers,” said Shin. He pointed out ingredients that had shone in the edible performance of the evening before, like the small local red snail, and the larger one that had been served in the sashimi trio. Many bows were only one indication of how this famous chef of ‘The Final Table’ is revered. We were introduced to suppliers who had worked with his father before him. Mushrooms and sweetcorn shone in the fresh produce outlet, and when we waxed lyrical about the sweet mango we had devoured for dessert, he told us how many yen are paid for the first mango of season
CHEF SHIN-ICHIRO TAKAGI OF ZENIYA
on auction. I delighted in seeing fresh wasabi leaves and stems, and started hatching a plan of how I could smuggle some home! We sauntered off to his favourite coffee shop, where he had once taken Alain Ducasse incognito. There is a memento photo on the wall in this coffee spot. Here the proprietor carefully sorts each coffee bean by hand. At 16 he went to the US on exchange, not speaking any English, coming back fluent. In 1996 after his father passed away, he started working in his father’s restaurant. Shin is a family man, his brother is a chef, and his wife sometimes works at the restaurant to relieve his mother. They have three children. I asked if they too would head into the family business? “I want to give them the opportunity to do what they want to do.”
He told us more about Kanazawa, a region rich in rice growers, and proudly informed us that it is here the sushi conveyor belt originated. We united in our dislike of raw oysters and promised to re-unite in Cape Town when he comes to SA, “Africa excites me,” he smiled. There were many other memorable moments experienced in this small and easy-to-navigate town, from a sushimaking course to the magnificent Kanazawa Castle, the Higashi Chaya district and its old tea houses to the Samurai area. We finished our sojourn in the breathtakingly beautiful Kenroku-en Gardens where, at sunset, we witnessed live music performed on the lake as the stars came out. For me, the ultimate star of Japan was chef Shin-ichiro Takagi, whose symphony of cuisine created an indelible and distinct memory of flavour and friendliness.
HAUTE TRAVEL
20
21
“THE DECADE HAS BEEN TOUGH, IT HAS HAD HIGHS AND LOWS. I STARTED OFF NOT KNOWING REALLY HOW TO DEAL WITH PEOPLE OR RUN A BUSINESS.”
A decade of dedication The Gourmet Guide caught up with chef and owner Marthinus Ferreira, of two-plated restaurant dw eleven-13, as they celebrate their 10th anniversary.
“In the past 10 years I have learnt so much about the industry and about myself. I have a better understanding of the industry and my craft and have learnt to accept and persevere when you don’t get something right the first time. Not being afraid to fail. Learning from mistakes. No one is perfect but seeing your imperfections and just pushing on builds character and a adds a greater value for your business. I can honestly say that today I am more confident and have more self-assurance for what I am doing. The passion still runs through my veins and knife,” says Marthinus. What are some of the joys? “The fact that we have made it to 10 years
is something I am truly grateful for. Receiving acknowledgements and accolades from JHP Gourmet Guide™ (two plates for three consecutive years) and making Eat Out nominees’ top 10 and 20. We have maintained high standards and I still love what I do. We have loyal customers that still frequent us from when we first opened.” Marthinus is admired for his style. “I believe that 10 years ago I was still following other chefs’ styles. However, over the last five years I have found and developed my own style. I feel that we have created something unique, quirky, eclectic and off the beaten track,” he says. Make your way to dw eleven-13 to try their special birthday menu. If you are looking to impress at home, try his delicious original recipes and chilli panna cotta or gnocchi.
Over the last five years I have found and developed my own style. I feel that we have created something unique, quirky, eclectic and off the beaten track. HAUTE PROPERTY
22 CHILLI PANNA COTTA INGREDIENTS Chilli panna cotta 8 gelatine leaves each 67ml water 1L cream 50ml fish sauce 50ml sweet soy sauce 1 small lime, cut in half ½ red chilli ½ jalapeno 1t sesame oil Tea jelly 2 gelatine leaves each ½C water ½t peach aroma ½T Oolong tea ¼t basil aroma 12g sugar Honeycomb 200g castor sugar 25g water 30g honey 70g glucose 10g bicarb 10g sesame seeds 4ml rum
METHOD 1 For the panna cotta, soak the gelatine leaves in water until soft. In a pot combine all the ingredients and heat until simmering. Squeeze out excess water from gelatine and whisk into the panna cotta mixture whilst still hot. Portion accordingly and refrigerate until set. 2 To make the tea jelly, soak the gelatine leaves in water. Combine the remaining ingredients in a pot and bring to the boil. Drain off excess water from gelatine and whisk into tea mixture. Refrigerate until set and cut portions accordingly. 3 For the honeycomb, bring the castor sugar and water to the boil. Once boiling add the honey and glucose. Bring up to a temperature of 146°C and mix in the bicarb and sesame seeds. Place in a deep lined tray and allow the honeycomb to harden. Break up into small bite-size pieces once set. PLATING 1 For assembly, place cut jellies and honeycomb on top of the panna cotta, add a few drops of rum to elevate the flavours. Serve cold. Serves 8 BEER: CHERRY CHOUFFE OR KRIEK BRUT
No one is perfect but seeing your imperfections and just pushing on builds character and a adds a greater value for your business. HAUTE PROPERTY
25 GNOCCHI INGREDIENTS Gnocchi 90g flour 69g butter salt 135g water 2 eggs +- 20g grated Parmesan Raisin gel 250g raisins water salt pepper Spinach purée 1 big bunch spinach 1C cream 50g butter salt pepper Toasted seeds 20g pumpkin seeds 20g sunflower seeds 20g oats salt pepper
continuously. Remove from the heat, let cool slightly and add in the eggs and Parmesan and ensure it is properly mixed. Portion the gnocchi as you desire and blanch in boiling salted water until they rise to the top. Remove from the water and set aside for later. 2 To make the raisin gel, cover the raisins in a pot with water and bring to the boil. Let simmer for half an hour or until soft. Drain the water and blitz the raisins in a blender with seasoning until smooth. Place in the fridge for later use. 3 For the spinach purée, pick the leaves off the stems and wash thoroughly. Blanch the spinach in boiling water for about a minute and place straight into ice water to retain colour. Combine the cream and butter and reduce for about 15 minutes until it thickens. Take off the heat and allow to cool to room temperature. In a blender combine the spinach leaves and cream mixture and blitz until smooth. Season accordingly and place in the fridge. 4 For the toasted seeds, combine all the seeds and fry in a little oil until golden brown. Drain off oil on paper towel and season.
PLATING 1 For assembly, at the base of the plate Plating place your spinach purée, raisin gel, 50g caper berries caper berries and toasted seeds. 2 Fry 40g brown butter the blanched gnocchi until golden brown 30ml lemon juice and place on top of the seeds. 3 Brown 20g parsley your butter and add lemon juice as well 50g baby spinach as chopped parsley, spoon over the 30g grated Karoo cheese gnocchi. 4 Chiffonade the baby spinach (or any mature hard cheese) and combine with the grated cheese and 10ml truffle oil truffle oil. Place on top of the gnocchi and grate more cheese over the top. Serve warm. METHOD 1 For the gnocchi, combine the flour, SERVES 4 butter, salt and water and cook on the heat for +-5 minutes stirring BEER: LA CHOUFFE
26
27
KLEIN JAN –
under the Kalahari sky Marlene van der Westhuizen caught up with Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen, to get the scoop on his exciting plans.
28 abundant fresh food markets of the French harbour city of Nice and on the other the sparse beauty of the Kalahari produce. Both with their own challenges. At KLEIN JAN, which will be opening during 2020, the kitchen team will need to concentrate on the unlimited uses of limited produce. The Kalahari food is delicate and at KLEIN JAN, will be gently served.
FOR CHEF JAN HENDRIK VAN DER WESTHUIZEN THE GLOBAL PARTNERSHIP HE HAS WITH NICKY AND JONATHAN OPPENHEIMER, OWNERS OF TSWALU KALAHARI RESERVE, CULMINATED IN THE CREATION OF KLEIN JAN IN THE KALAHARI DESERT. A few years after opening the quintessential restaurant JAN in Nice, France, Jan Hendrik is again facing the edginess, the challenge and almost childlike enthusiasm a new venture invariably holds. KLEIN JAN will benefit directly from the constant and highlevel research which is part of the Tswalu story. Their team of food and produce researchers are constantly looking for excellent, lesser-known wines produced in the Orange River Valley, for sweeter-than-sweet melons, dates, citrus and amongst other delicacies, edible roots. The two restaurants, JAN and KLEIN JAN, will be operating on opposite sides of the same food spectrum – on the one side of the globe are the
Therefore Jan Hendrik is opening, within the next few weeks, in Kloof Street Gardens, the JAN Innovation Studio. This dynamic space will be occupied by a team of creative and energetic chefs who will constantly be experimenting with innovative ideas, produce and concepts. It will also be doubling as the headquarters of the now very familiar JAN the Journal. Jan Hendrik has a heartfelt passion for the concept of training young food enthusiasts in all three of his namesake venues. He loves the idea that trainees will be exposed to publishing as well: “Publishing has taught me that nothing compares to the gravitas of the longevity of the written word on paper.” Which is why he aims to curate South Africa’s most comprehensive cookbook library at the JAN Innovation Studio. An exciting and fun addition to the JAN Innovation studio will be the occasional pop-up Long Table where Jan Hendrik might just have fun with invited chefs cooking the odd ‘four-hands’ meal – and invite a few guests to enjoy the innovative menus. Watch this space!
HAUTE PROPERTY
On the one side of the globe are the abundant fresh food markets of the French harbour city of Nice and on the other the sparse beauty of the Kalahari produce.
30
31
Winter wish list
Jo'burg
Cape Town
Farm-to-table refined dining is at its finest at this much-loved bistro in Parkhurst, Jo’burg. The menu is seasonal, offering a provenance all-day menu special at R250 per person. Well known for their pork belly, duck, fresh pasta and decadent desserts, enjoy a three-course meal made from fresh produce, sourced sustainably from the Diack’s family farm, Brightside.
Chef Kerry Kilpin’s seasonal creations lunch special is sure to satisfy. Indulge in a selection of neo-bistro comfortfood dishes from R230 for two courses, R265 for three or R295 for four, while experiencing top-class service in a gorgeous contemporary setting. In Kerry’s words, “What we put on the plate is equally important as the way our guests are treated.”
COOBS
Warm up, get out and eat at top restaurants this Winter. Here’s your list of elite must-eat-at restaurants that have specials to get you out during the secret season.
BISTRO SIXTEEN82
Valid until 31 August 2019. www.coobs.co.za
Image by Bistro Sixteen82
THE FLAVOUR ACADEMY BY CAFÉ DEL SOL
WINTER WISH LIST
The 'Salute series with flambé cooking' is heading to the Jo’burg scene. With plenty of excitingly different events happening this Winter, pick one, pick two or simply book for all. Imagine preparing your own cuisine while learning about ingredients and liquor pairings. The menus boasts themes like ‘cooking with rum’ or ‘cooking with tequila’. At R850 per person, enjoy a handson cooking lesson, wine, dinner, tea/ coffee at The Good Food Studio from 5pm to 9pm and walk away smiling with your very own recipe journal. Email: marketing@cafedesol.co.za to book.
Valid until 30 September 2019 (excluding public holidays).
GREENHOUSE The journey of discovery at three-plated Greenhouse restaurant at the CellarsHohenort Hotel showcases a sterling Winter menu which is paired with exemplary service. Nearly every course has a South African element, holding their reputation up high for, “Sourcing unusual, meaningful ingredients and lending them an extraordinary treatment,” says chef Farrel Hirsch. Choose between the full journey menu at R1300 per person or the reduced discovery menu at R900 per person, Tuesdays to Saturdays for dinner or Fridays and Saturdays for lunch. Valid until 31 August 2019.
WINTER WISH LIST
32
33
LA MOUETTE
LA PETITE COLOMBE
Make your way to La Mouette, in Sea Point where seasons dictate, serving modern French fare with a Mediterranean flair. Savour their delectable five-course Winter special for R295, with wine R545. Suitable for meat-lovers or vegetarians one can devour dishes of beef short rib served with an aubergine and miso purée or their wild mushroom risotto with umami dressing, rocket and Parmesan.
This one-plated restaurant in the heart of Franschhoek needs that tick in the box this Winter. If it’s a beautiful setting, a chance to meet the chefs at work and a selection of fine-dining dishes to choose between that you are after, their lunch special beckons. Relish some of the finest food and wine at just R450 per person for four courses.
Valid until 31 August 2019.
Valid until 31 August 2019 (including public holidays).
Winelands
TERROIR RESTAURANT Honest and bold flavours is what oneplated chef Michael Broughton dishes up. With a choice between two or three courses, at R295 and R395 per person, one cannot afford not to visit Klein Zalze Estate this Winter. Dishes on the menu include lightly-smoked sea-salmon trout with pickled celery and orange and sage emulsion, flamegrilled rack of lamb and strawberryswirl meringue with honey-poached pears and pistachio. Complimentary amuse bouche, mouth-watering breads and a glass of wine with the two first courses are included at lunch and dinner service.
Head to Franschhoek to experience this casual fine-dining eatery for lunch. Tapping into the world of tapas, a choice of three flavoursome dishes at R275 per person is available. A must-try is the Korean fried chicken and braaied cauliflower, but be warned, you will want more than three! The focus is on local ingredients inspired by the chefs’ travels and designed to be shared and enjoyed together. Valid until 31 August 2019 (including public holidays).
Book on Dineplan
Valid until 30 September 2019.
WINTER WISH LIST
Image by Greenhouse
PROTÉGÉ
En route ORIGINS
If it’s the traditional fish and chips or curry to warm you up after a long week that you are after, look no further. Located in the seaside town of Hermanus, this is where a modern twist on Cape classics come into play. “I don’t over-complicate food – we offer traditional SA cuisine with a modern twist,” says chef Tronette Dippenaar.
The fish and chips special includes beer-battered hake, hand-cut chips and caper aioli at R120 per person. Or choose the curry special – Thai green chicken, Cape Malay lamb curry or a seasonal vegetable curry at R170 per person. Every Friday for lunch and dinner until the Winter blues are over. Valid until 31 August 2019 (including public holidays). www.themarinehotel.co.za/ restaurants-bars/origins/
WINTER WISH LIST
34 GRILL ROOM
STANFORD VALLEY GUEST FARM
Discover a selection of several of their most popular fine-dining dishes this Winter. The menu has been expertly put together by executive chef Kevin Joseph and includes a combination of classic favourites. Devour dishes like cipollini and parsley prawns with Chardonnay cream, five-spice duck breast, Asian plum and coriander, asparagus and goats' cheese salad and their passionfruit and elderflower cheesecake for R650 per person.
Enjoy a bounty of nature outside the riverside village of Stanford. Cosy-up in one of their self-catering double or twin rooms, each with a fireplace, and enjoy a three-course dinner and breakfast the next morning. Dinner, bed and breakfast for R995 per person sharing. For those passing through, the lunch and dinner special include a complimentary dessert or glass of wine with any two-course meals of a main and starter.
Image by Stanford Valley Guest Farm
Valid until 31 August 2019. www.stanfordvalley.co.za
WINTER WISH LIST
36
37
Gourmet Guide recipes JHP Gourmet Guideâ„¢ rated chefs share their recipes
DAL MAKHANI BY BY CHEF VANIE PADAYCHEE OF MARIGOLD
HAUTE CUISINE
38 DAL MAKHANI INGREDIENTS Black dal 500g black dal, cleaned and washed Tadka (braising) 50g ghee 50g ginger and garlic puree 1t kashmiri chilli 1t cumin powder 1t salt 600g tomato puree 200ml cream METHOD Black dal 1 Bring to a boil with enough water. 2 Drain and cover with fresh water and boil until the lentils are soft. Tadka (braising) 1 Heat ghee; add paste and cook well. 2 Add the spices and salt and sauté. 3 Add the tomato puree and cook well. 4 Add to the cooked dal and bring to a boil with water allowing to reduce. 5 Add cream and allow to simmer for 20 minutes, stirring continuously. 6 Remove off heat and serve with steamed rice or naan breads. SERVES 4 BEER: VEDETT IPA PANEER WITH SPICED SPINACH SAUCE INGREDIENTS Spiced spinach sauce 200g brown onion, sliced 100g garlic, sliced
75g ginger, chopped 25g green chilli, sliced 1 bay leaf 20g cumin seeds 2g turmeric 5g black pepper 5g chilli powder 10g fenugreek 2g garam masala 1L coconut cream salt to taste 1kg spinach, blanched and refreshed in ice water, squeeze out all the excess water Paneer 2L full cream milk 100ml lime juice METHOD Spiced spinach sauce 1 Caramelise onion in oil in a mediumsized pot over medium heat. 2 Add garlic, ginger, chilli and bay leaf and sweat that all the way down. 3 Coarsely crush spices in pestle and mortar and add to onion base. Cook out. 4 Add coconut cream and cook for approximately 10 minutes. 5 Blend with spinach until smooth. Paneer 1 Bring milk up to 90°C (just before boiling point) in a large pot over a high heat. Take off with the heat. 2 Stir in the lime juice and allow it to stand for 20 minutes (do not whisk, as this will break the paneer down, leaving it crumbly). 3 Strain in muslin cloth, and press in the muslin cloth overnight. 4 Portion as desired. SERVES 6 TO 8 BEER: VEDETT BLOND
HAUTE CUISINE
PANEER WITH SPICED SPINACH SAUCE BY CHEF LIAM TOMLIN OF THALI
41 2T finely chopped onion 2T heavy cream 200g cold unsalted butter, cut into 1cm cubes salt to taste 1 pinch cayenne pepper (optional) Tomato, olive and caper salsa 200g cherry tomatoes, halved 4T baby capers 4T pitted Kalamata olives 2t chopped chives 1 ½t fresh lemon juice 2T extra virgin olive oil salt and black pepper
BY CHEF GARTH ALMAZAN OF LEETO
PAN-FRIED CAPE BREAM, SAUTÉED ASPARAGUS, BROCCOLI, RED ONION AND CHILLI WITH WILD ROCKET, NEW POTATOES, MUSSEL, LEMON BEURRE BLANC AND TOMATO, OLIVE AND CAPER SALSA INGREDIENTS Sautéed new potatoes 300g waxy new potatoes 120ml sunflower or olive oil salt to taste Lemon beurre blanc ½C dry white wine (such as Sauvignon Blanc) 2T lemon juice
Sautéed asparagus, broccoli, red onion and chilli 2T olive oil ½ small red onion, finely chopped 2T red chilli, chopped 250g broccoli, cut into florets 16 asparagus spears, chopped diagonally juice of half a lemon salt and pepper Cape bream 1T olive oil 4 x 200g Cape bream fillets, skin on and boned or use other sustainable fish such as yellowtail salt and freshly ground pepper 50g butter ½ lemon, pips removed METHOD Sautéed new potatoes 1 Cut the potatoes in half. 2 Bring a large pan of water to the boil and cook the potatoes for 3 minutes. 3 Drain and shake out onto a kitchen paper-lined
HAUTE CUISINE
tray and leave to cool. 4 When ready to serve, heat the oil in a large non-stick frying pan until you can feel a high heat rising. If your pan isn’t large enough, fry the potatoes in two batches – rather than crowding them. Have kitchen paper ready to drain them on. 5 Add the potatoes in a single layer, not too tightly packed. Turn the heat to medium high, so that the potatoes sizzle, but don’t stir until they start to brown underneath. 6 Turn them all evenly 2 or 3 times until nicely browned all over – this can take about 7 minutes. 7 Scoop out with a large slotted spoon and place on kitchen paper to get rid of excess oil. 8 Sprinkle with sea salt. Lemon beurre blanc 1 Place wine, lemon juice, onion, and cream in a saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium to high heat. 2 Reduce heat to medium, and let simmer until liquid is reduced by about 75%, 4 to 5 minutes. 3 Reduce heat to the lowest setting and whisk in about 2 cubes of butter. Keep butter moving until it melts. 4 When melted, add a few more cubes, whisking continuously so butter emulsifies into the wine/lemon juice mixture. 5 Continue to add butter, a few cubes at a time until all of it has been incorporated and the sauce has a thick, luxurious texture, 4 to 6 minutes. 6 Remove from heat. Taste for seasonings and add a pinch of salt and cayenne, if desired. 7 Keep warm. Tomato, olive and caper salsa 1 In a small bowl, combine the tomatoes, capers, olives, chives, lemon juice and olive oil. 2 Season and stir ingredients to combine.
Sautéed asparagus, broccoli, red onion and chilli 1 Heat 1T of olive oil over a medium heat in a large frying pan; add red onion and cook for 5 minutes or until softened. 2 Add chilli and cook for another 1 minute. 3 Meanwhile, place broccoli and asparagus in a steamer and cook for 3 minutes or until vegetables are just tender. 4 Add lemon juice to the onions and chilli and cook for 1 minute. 5 Add vegetables and remaining oil, season well and toss the vegetables. 6 Remove from the heat and keep warm. Cape bream 1 Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and add the seasoned bream fillets, skin side down. 2 Cook for a couple of minutes until the skin is just beginning to crisp, then add little knobs of butter to the pan around each bream fillet and cook for another couple of minutes until the skin is crisp. 3 Turn the bream fillets over and cook for another 3 to 4 minutes until cooked through. This will depend on the thickness of the fillets. 4 Squeeze the lemon juice over the bream fillets and keep warm. PLATING 1 Pour lemon beurre blanc on plate and swirl to cover the whole plate. 2 Arrange sautéed potatoes and vegetables neatly on plate and then top with the fish fillets. 3 Spoon some of the salsa over. SERVES 4 BEER: DUVEL
HAUTE CUISINE
43 SALAD OF BABY BEETROOTS, ROASTED BUTTERNUT, BUFFALO LABNEH AND TOASTED PUMPKIN SEEDS INGREDIENTS 100ml buffalo yoghurt 100g baby golden beetroots 100g candy-stripe baby beetroots 100g purple baby beetroots 43ml olive oil 1 medium-sized butternut 50g pumpkin seeds 2t soya sauce 10g castor sugar 10g ground cinnamon 100g watercress, washed salt and pepper
SALAD OF BABY BEETROOTS, ROASTED BUTTERNUT, BUFFALO LABNEH AND TOASTED PUMPKIN SEEDS BY CHEF DALE STEVENS OF FABER
METHOD 1 Place the buffalo yoghurt in a sieve lined with cloth. Store in fridge overnight, draining off most of the whey. Once it has thickened, add pinch of salt and set aside. 2 Preheat oven to 180°C. Place baby beetroots in 3 separate baking trays (important to keep the 3 colours separate, as they tend to stain each other) and coat with 20ml olive oil, salt and pepper. Wrap trays in tinfoil and allow to roast at for 45 minutes. 3 Remove from oven and allow to steam in tray for an additional 15 minutes. This will ensure the beetroots do not overcook. Peel and set aside. 4 Peel the butternut and portion 2 ‘steaks’. Place the steaks in a baking tray, drizzle with 5ml olive oil, salt and pepper. Cover tray with tin foil and roast at 180°C for 30 minutes. Remove from oven and set aside.
5 Dice the remaining butternut and drizzle with 8ml of olive oil, salt and pepper. Place diced and seasoned butternut on a baking tray, cover with foil and roast at 180°C for 40 minutes. Once cooked, blend the butternut in a food processor/blender till smooth. Adjust seasoning accordingly. 6 Toast the pumpkin seeds at 180°C for 12 minutes. Remove from oven and immediately coat with soya sauce, breaking seeds up with a wooden spoon to prevent clumps. Allow to cool and set aside. PLATING 1 Combine the castor sugar and cinnamon in a small bowl; coat top and bottom of butternut steak in the mixture. In a hot pan, roast the butternut steak on low-medium heat with 5ml olive oil, till both sides are golden brown. Once desired colour is achieved, portion the butternut into bite-sized pieces. 2 Toss the cooled baby beetroots in 5ml olive oil and adjust seasoning accordingly. 3 On a clean flat plate, place a tablespoon of labneh in the top left corner and 2 tablespoons of butternut puree. Arrange the baby beetroots and the cubed butternut on the plate. Sprinkle with toasted pumpkin seeds and finish off with watercress. Tip: beetroots are cooked first, then easily peeled. SERVES 2 BEER: LA CHOUFFE
HAUTE CUISINE
44
45
"We have no signature anything, rather concentrating on having different combinations." Chef Arno Janse van Rensburg minutes, or until tender. 4 Once cooked, let it cool down and portion the tentacles into 8. No liquid is added, the octopus releases its own juices and that is what the octopus is cooked in.
OCTOPUS, POTATO, PAPRIKA INGREDIENTS Octopus 1 small octopus ½ onion 3 cloves garlic Potato rouille salt and pepper lemon juice 1 medium potato - cooked in octopus liquid 1T Dijon mustard 150ml canola oil Potato crisps 4 to 6 small potatoes rice flour oil for frying
Potato rouille 1 Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice. 2 Blend the potato without the skin on a low setting. Add mustard. 3 Slowly add the oil until emulsified. 4 Pour into a squeeze bottle and reserve. Potato crisps 1 Slice potatoes very thinly. 2 Cover lightly with rice flour and deep-fry at 160°C, until crispy. Paprika spice 1 Combine all the ingredients.
Paprika spice ½t smoked paprika ½t pimento Espelette ½t ancho chilli, crushed METHOD Octopus 1 Heat a medium-size pot until very hot. 2 Add the octopus, onion and garlic. 3 Put the lid on and cook for 45
PLATING 1 Grill octopus legs individually on open fire or in a very hot oiled pan. 2 Squeeze over the rouille. 3 Carefully place potato chips on top of rouille. 4 Dust with spice mix. Serves 8 BEER: DUVEL
HAUTE CUISINE
HAUTE CUISINE
Haute ingredients What’s fresh and in season
THE HIDDEN KINGDOM OF THE MODEST MUSHROOM IS NOT ONE TO BE RECKONED WITH. NEITHER A PLANT NOR A VEGETABLE, THIS FUNGUS SHOULD HAVE A PLACE IN EVERY KITCHEN. WITH THOUSANDS OF SPECIES GROWN AROUND THE GLOBE, THEY ARE READILY AVAILABLE AND TRUE TO NATURE. MADE UP OF 90% WATER AND RICH IN VITAMIN D AND POTASSIUM, MUSHROOMS OFFER COUNTLESS HEALTH BENEFITS. Mushrooms contribute to the sensation of umami in a dish, meaning ‘taste’ in Japanese. Earthy in flavour, smooth in texture, they can be eaten raw or cooked. They are best stored unwashed in paper bags in the fridge. Mushrooms are often the ‘meat’ in a vegetarian’s world and one will be captivated when trying the different variations like ‘chicken of the woods’, which is surprisingly like the taste of chicken.
A Winter bounty includes a colourful spectrum of fruits – APPLES, DATES AND FIGS which work well together with cheese or in a salad, plus GOOSEBERRIES, GRANADILLAS AND KIWI. CITRUS fruits, rich in Vitamin C, start to shine, and PEARS, PERSIMMONS AND PAPAYAS beckon. Cruciferous vegetables like CAULIFLOWER, CABBAGE, BROCCOLI AND BRUSSELS SPROUTS, also rich in Vitamin C and fibre, are prolific in Winter. Leafy vegetables move to the fore, as do ‘stems’ – ASPARAGUS, CELERY AND LEEKS. Look down under for the early tubers that shine, BEETS being the first to appear.
HAUTE INGREDIENTS
48
The perfect pair
pairing umami flavours with wine
The Gourmet Guide met up with Chilean Manuel (Manny) Cabello, sommelier of Ellerman House to answer questions about pairing wines with umami flavours. “Umami is perhaps the purest of all tastes, umami is the Japanese word that loosely translates into delicious and certainty it is, also described as brothiness and savouriness, known as the fifth taste.
When it comes to red wines choose lighter over heavy, but a bit of age will be the perfect choice. Think of cultivars like Cabernet Franc, Nero d’Avola, Nebbiolo, Touriga Nacional, Grenache or even a Pinot Noir. Alternatively, a dry sherry or amber beer will be as good.”
Techniques like fermenting, curing or aging help release umami such as the taste behind a good stock, aged cheese like that bite from an old Parmesan, mushroom, miso soup, soy sauce, aged tomatoes, fish stock, roast meat and shellfish – all amazing flavours to pair with wine, a reason to think that this taste is the sommelier’s best friend. Umami works well with wines low in alcohol, good acidity with a touch of freshness – Blanc de Blancs Champagne, Chenin Blanc, Roussanne, Greco di Tufo. It also works extremely well with wines that have a more oxidized style or more skin contact, especially in Asian flavour or salty dishes. HAUTE INGREDIENTS
50
51 CONSISTENCY, LIKE CREDIBILITY AND TRUST, TAKE TIME. CHEFS ACKNOWLEDGE THAT TIME IS OFTEN THE BEST INGREDIENT, AND THAT PATIENCE IS A VIRTUE. The plate rating is not a competition – there is no first, second or third. It is South Africa’s restaurant rating that equates to global counterparts – like hats and stars. We are delighted that it has been accepted and respected by top chefs. Having the plated restaurants appear on the landing page of SA’s preferred restaurant booking app, Dineplan, has contributed to public understanding of the prestige.
criticize when the need arises – this is done privately, not in a written review – with advice on possible improvements. In 2020 there will be fewer restaurants featured in the glossy, printed guide that launches in October 2019 – only plated and awarded restaurants will feature, with their recipes. Rated restaurants, with their recipes, will be featured in the quarterly online Gourmet Guide magazine.
It’s all about the plate recognition of ongoing excellence
HAUTE PERFORMANCE
Image by Restaurant Mosaic/ Dylan Swart
After public nominations, anonymous inspections are executed by professional evaluators before a final review and interview with the chef, to validate scores. An announced review ensures that the chef can present their best dishes. There are numerous criteria involved – more than 30. To be able to evaluate consistency the chef needs to have been at the helm for more than a season. Three plates, the ultimate accolade, are only given after a restaurant has earned one or two and proven that they are worthy of having diners willing to fly halfway across the world to dine there! The experiences are evaluated, not just the cuisine, from expectations to authenticity, ingredients to techniques, concept to execution, seasonality to sustainability, longevity to legacy. We believe that there is enormous responsibility in scrutinizing a restaurant, and part of that is having the courage to
One plate is awarded for excellent cuisine, two for exceptional dining that demands a detour and three for world-class destination dining, worthy of a flight.
HAUTE PERFORMANCE
53 THE VALUE OF GOOD SERVICE IS OF PARAMOUNT IMPORTANCE TO NEWTON CROSS, WHO HEADS UPS THE RENOWNED SOUTH AFRICAN BUTLER ACADEMY. HE SHARES HIS PERSONAL ACCOUNT OF AN UNFORGETTABLE DINNER AT TWOMICHELIN-STARRED LA GRANDE MAISON IN BORDEAUX. Bordeaux is located close to the European Atlantic coast, in the southwest of France and in the north of the Aquitaine region. It is around 500 km southwest of Paris. The city is built on a bend of the river Garonne, and is divided into two parts: the right bank to the east and left bank in the west. The Garonne River is accessible to ocean liners often belonging to nobility. The restaurant has a feeling of opulence and exclusivity – crystal decanters, an ornate fireplace, large antique bookcases with beautiful leather-bound books. Refinement and elegance were the key words for Frédérique Fournier, the decorator of the rooms. The dining room is
La Grande Maison – Bordeaux Five-star service
decorated in a Napoleon III style. Emphasis is placed on French crafts, with embroidered Braquenié silk taffeta fabrics from Pierre Frey, Houlès trimmings, Moissonnier furniture and products by Guerlain in the bathrooms. "I was looking for very floral decoration, quite bold for Bordeaux, creating a new, very French approach, where the clear presence of luxury is offset by charm and elegance," explains Frédérique Fournier, who chose all the decorative elements from the work of French artisans, in line with the hotel’s respect for tradition. The tables are well spaced in the dining rooms, not too cramped on top of the each other. The tables are beautifully and correctly set. A perfect table setting always needs to have 3 main layers; the silence pad, the underlay and the overlay which builds a rich, decadent feeling. The dining chairs were beautifully upholstered and very comfortable, all in all, blending the elements perfectly into a spacious, formal yet cosy and welcoming entertaining atmosphere.
The restaurant has a feeling of opulence and exclusivity – crystal decanters, an ornate fireplace, large antique bookcases with beautiful leather-bound books. HAUTE PERFORMANCE
54
The mission statement of famous chef Pierre Gagnaire states his wish to run a restaurant which is 'facing tomorrow but respectful of yesterday'. The service was efficient and professional with great care in the placement of serving dishes on the tables, as to not utilise the full table space, only half, to allow patrons to literally watch the dining experience unfold in a perfectly-told story.
encompassing the whole food journey. The presentation of the amuse bouche is impressive, comprising a selection of tastes – Champagne jellies flavoured with cucumber, foie gras brulee and escargot. The calamari and truffles – sensational.
The famous chef, Pierre Gagnaire’s mission statement states his wish to run a restaurant which is 'facing tomorrow but respectful of yesterday' ('tourné vers demain mais soucieux d'hier'). With an infamous chef such as Pierre Gagnaire, the menu was not a disappointment. Keeping in theme, the French staff were absolutely perfectly versed in English explanations of each and every dish they were questioned about and delivered a detailed and clear description, down to the finest nuance. The menu itself was simplistic, delivering two options, a more entry-level selection and then a more expansive pairing menu –
The owner Bernard Magrez has ensured a wonderfully unique wine list, offering all the Grand Crus Classes of Bordeaux. The wine was well paired to our meals, poured in the perfect amount to each glass, placed in the exact position on the table during dining. La Grande Maison welcomes you with exactly what you would expect in terms of a perfect French neighbourhood, set in a beautiful historic building in a wellestablished and perfectly maintained and manicured garden, which to my mind, rounds off the experience as an elegant welcome and a graceful au revoir.
HAUTE PERFORMANCE
57
IT’S A LOVE AFFAIR BETWEEN THE MOTHER CITY AND A GOLDEN BLONDE, THE BEST OF BELGIUM, SMOOTH, BRIGHT AND ALIVE. AFRICA IS CELEBRATING THE FIRST DUVEL BEER ON TAP, UNDER THE AFRICAN QUEEN IN THE BAR OF BUSY, BUSTLING DEN ANKER AT THE V&A WATERFRONT, ALSO CELEBRATING – 25 YEARS OF SUCCESS.
Celebrating Duvel on Tap at the tip of Africa Innovation, exclusivity, exceptional
innovation, exclusivity, exceptional
Launched as the beer to celebrate the end of World War 1, known as ‘Victory Ale’, it’s still brewed with yeast cultured from the same strain. This singlefermented beer of choice of discerning drinkers is now available in the most scenic spot in the world, on tap. The name Duvel originated at a tasting session when a shoemaker, Mr. Van De Wouwer was so amazed by the beer’s heady aromas that he exclaimed, “This is a real devil” – or “Duvel” in Flemish. The name was changed from Victory Ale and the name Duvel adopted. It’s a family affair. The Moortgat family who create Belgium’s favourite ale, have fourth generation family members owning and running the business. The Duvel Moortgat brewery was founded in 1871 by Jean-Leonard Moortgat and
his wife on the Moortgat farm. As Duvel’s brand ambassador, master brewer and former head brewer of Liefmans, Olav Blancquaert, son of Rosa Merckx, the first female brewer, is passionate and knowledgeable. He describes Duvel on tap in three words – ‘innovative, exclusive and exceptional’. “Duvel is still seen as the reference among strong golden ales. Its bouquet is lively and tickles the nose with touches of citrus and grapefruit. The flavour is beautifully balanced with a small hint of spiciness. This beer has a wonderful roundness in the mouth, which is rounded off by a lingering, dry aftertaste,” says Olav. It’s dry and crisp, carefully balanced. Beer is becoming a hot favourite for food pairings, and, with its CO2 content close to that of sparkling wine and Champagne, it’s an ideal aperitif with which to start a meal, especially a light starter like asparagus. Beer lovers often query the difference in taste when drinking Duvel on tap rather than a bottle. “There should be no difference because it is the same beer and the same production process. However, beer keeps fresh
HAUTE DRINKS
58
Beer is becoming a hot favourite for food pairings, and, with its CO2 content close to that of sparkling wine and Champagne, it’s an ideal aperitif with which to start a meal. longer in a keg compared to the bottle, so Duvel on Tap is generally younger and fresher than Duvel out of a bottle. On tap it is also served slightly colder than out of the bottle. This does not have influence on the richness of the taste; an advantage is that the beer will stay longer cold in the glass. Duvel is not the only brewery producing beer, which is re-fermented in a keg, but we are the only brewer to do this at such a high level of CO2 content,” states Olav. The full brewing process for both bottled Duvel and Duvel on Tap takes 90 days and is unique worldwide. After brewing, the beer spends two weeks in a warm room for re-fermentation and about six weeks in cold storage for conditioning. This extended maturation period and contributes to Duvel’s refined flavour and pure taste. The Duvel on Tap draught dispense system is unique, using a small disposable (single-use) beer line that helps slow the flow and pressure of the beer. Her crown? A rich white head with fine bubbles.
ART IN A GLASS Convinced that a unique beer needed a unique glass, the third generation of Moortgats designed the first tulip-shaped beer glass just for Duvel. The innovative glass had to be able to hold the contents of an entire 33cl bottle. (Up until then, there had never been such a large beer glass!) The glass is specifically designed to offer a more complete experience of the beer: the rounded shape allows Duvel’s exquisite flavour and aroma to be fully experienced by the drinker and the way the glass narrows towards the top helps retain the beer’s carbonation, preserving the head.
OWNER OF DEN ANKER ELISABETH DE VISSCHER AND GENERAL MANAGER REJEANNE VLIETMAN
At Den Anker you will have your Duvel on Tap perfectly served. Admire the unique tulip-shaped glass whilst you appreciate the breathtaking view before the brew takes your breath away. “I can think of nothing more fitting than launching Duvel on Tap in our 25th year of business – a first for the African continent,” says Rejeanne Vlietman, GM at Den Anker Restaurant and director of The Belgian Beer Company.
HAUTE DRINKS
DUVEL’S BRAND AMBASSADOR OLAV BLANCQUAERT
61
The full brewing process for both bottled Duvel and Duvel on Tap takes 90 days and is unique worldwide. WITLOF AU GRATIN, WITLOF
GOATS’ CHEESE, PEAR AND HONEY INGREDIENTS 8 small rolled balls (5g each) of Chevin goats’ cheese 1 egg, separated 100g panko crumbs oil for deep frying 50g parsley, chopped 2 Witlof heads, finely chopped 250g mixed-baby lettuce and micro greens 4 pears (skin on), sliced and sautéed in butter 80g walnuts, crushed 4t honey
HAUTE DRINKS
WRAPPED IN PARMA HAM, VELOUTÉ, GOUDA AND MASH INGREDIENTS 1 pack Witlof 250g potatoes 200g butter 150g flour 100ml cream salt and pepper to taste nutmeg 250g Parma ham 200g Gouda, grated
METHOD 1 Make cheese balls. 2 Coat half with egg white and panko crumbs. Deep fry until crisp. 3 Roll the other half in chopped parsley. 4 Build the base of your salad with two leaves of Witlof and stack the baby leaf salad on top. 5 Top with chopped Witlof followed by pear, walnuts and goat’s cheese balls. 6 Drizzle with honey and garnish with micro greens.
METHOD 1 Boil 1 pack Witlof in water with a pinch of salt. Drain well but retain the cooking liquid to make the velouté 2 Boil the potatoes and mash. 3 To make the velouté, melt butter and whisk in the flour folding in the Witlof cooking liquid until you reach a custard consistency. 4 Add the cream and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste. 5 Wrap the blanched Witlof in ham and place in a casserole dish, place the mash next to it. 6 Top the ham with velouté and top with grated Gouda. 7 Bake at 180°C approximately 30 minutes or until the cheese is brown and bubbling.
SERVES 4
SERVES 4
BEER: DUVEL OR KRIEK BRUT
BEER: LA CHOUFFE BEER HAUTE DRINKS
62
A few of my favourite things
63 FOOD?
QUOTE?
My favourite, and not one I would readily advertise but I like to be honest, is Burger King. I am a sucker for their chilli-cheese bites and whopper burgers. That smell is just so moreish!
“A recipe has no soul. You as the cook must bring soul to the recipe.” Thomas Keller
WINTER DISH?
Cooking for Jamie Fox.
Pork trotter curry with freshly baked bread.
CANNOT LIVE WITHOUT?
PLACE OF RELAXATION? In the kitchen getting stuck into creating a new dish with chef Peter Ayub – we love experimenting! And sitting on my couch during my down time watching the awesome food shows on Netflix. READ? All things food, food, food!!! TRAVEL DESTINATION? Morocco, Tunisia, Israel and Greece – these are the next destinations that I would like to travel to with Peter – especially for the diversity of food in each destination. And the beautiful food markets!
CAREER HIGHLIGHT?
Lemon juice and good quality local olive oil (preferably Morgenster). KITCHEN IMPLEMENT? My chef’s knife and microplane/zester. MENTOR? Chefs Peter and Debs Aylub have truly believed in me from the onset, they have guided and groomed me in every aspect. They have taught me so much about the business, about life and food. Without them I would not be where I am today! My dream of taking over the school is going to be a reality as that is what Chef and Debs really want for me. This is such a great honour and I will do them and myself proud.
TIME OF THE DAY?
of Sense of Taste culinary school was recently awarded the Rising Star Chef award. The Gourmet Guide team asked him to reveal a few of his secrets. BYRON THEBUS
HAUTE FAVOURITES
I am a morning person – although nights can rock too – especially if we are busy with one of our Chef Table Dinners. A wonderful interactive cooking experience for 16 guests, four courses that guests enjoy right in the heart of our working kitchen at Sense of Taste Chef School.
“A recipe has no soul. You as the cook must bring soul to the recipe.”
HAUTE FAVOURITES
64
65
Every time I serve a guest with just the right wine, those smiles on their faces are most rewarding.
Meet conversant PEARL OLIVER, sommelier at the One&Only Cape Town and national chair of the Black Cellar Club-BLACC.
TRAVEL DESTINATION?
FOOD FRAGRANCE?
TIME OF THE DAY?
Basil pesto or roast chicken, whether together or apart.
Any time of the day all day, I am a mom!
PLACE OF RELAXATION?
Today I quote the Bible Isaiah 60, ‘I will make peace your governor and wellbeing your ruler’.
At the beach I always find myself in full relax mode, I have a thing for the sound of the ocean, especially when the tide is high and the waves loud. READ? I read anything from leadership books by Stephen Covey and Robert Kiyosaki to the investments journals, and business books.
Have not been yet but would love to travel to France/Bordeaux and the Champagne region. Also, the South of France, the Rhone Valley.
QUOTE?
CAREER HIGHLIGHT? It will have to be every time I serve a guest with just the right wine, that smile on their faces are most rewarding. CANNOT LIVE WITHOUT? A cassava dish and fish...after my family.
HAUTE FAVOURITES
66
67
It’s all about the plate
WIN! ONE OF TWO COPIES OF PLATE See the competitions page on our website for details.
HAUTE READS
Plates are what makes our world go around, so imagine our delight when Marlene van der Westhuizen launched her new book, PLATE. It’s her latest collection of simple, fuss-free main courses. The recipes are divided into three sections of meat, seafood and poultry. There are all the classics, brought to life with her inimitable flair, and incredible photography by Rogger Koene. It is also available in Afrikaans (Bord), at a cost of R375. The beautiful blue-and-white plate on the cover was created by Mervyn Gers. It’s a musthave for anyone who loves cooking heart-warming, must-eat-some-more food for family and friends. VENISON WITH RED WINE, PINE NUTS AND CREAM INGREDIENTS Marinade 100ml good olive oil 125g diced pork belly 2 carrots, sliced 2 leeks, sliced 5ml dried sage
3 bay leaves 1 bouquet garni 4 cloves garlic, chopped 750ml good-quality red wine
Venison 1.25kg venison shoulder, trimmed 100ml good olive oil 1 carrot, sliced 1 leek, sliced 5ml dried sage 2 cloves garlic, chopped 2 bay leaves 1 bouquet garni 75ml good quality red wine 100g dark chocolate, grated 125ml cream 125g pine nuts, toasted 250g brandy-soaked pitted prunes * METHOD Marinade 1 Prepare the marinade 2 days ahead of cooking. Heat the olive oil in a large casserole dish and gently fry the pork belly until the fat runs. Add the carrots and the leeks and cook gently. Add the herbs, bouquet garni and garlic
HAUTE READS
68 and heat through. Pour in the wine and bring to a gentle boil. Allow the alcohol to evaporate (about 5 minutes); you will smell when it’s all gone! Remove from the heat and leave to cool down completely. Venison 1 To prepare the venison, place the meat in a very large casserole dish. Pour the cooled marinade over it, cover and refrigerate. Marinate for 48 hours, turning every 12 hours. 2 Heat the olive oil in a casserole dish that is big enough to hold the entire cut of meat. Add the carrot and leek and fry gently until glossy. Lift the venison from the marinade and pat it dry with kitchen paper before placing it in the casserole dish. Strain the marinade through a sieve and keep the liquid. Brown the meat on all sides in the hot olive oil before adding the sage, garlic, bay leaves and bouquet garni. 3 Add the strained marinade and red wine to the casserole dish. Cover and bring the liquid to a steady boil. Simmer for about 2 hours. The liquid should be reduced by half and the venison tender. Remove the venison from the casserole, place it on a platter and let it rest but keep it warm. 4 Bring the wine and marinade mixture to a fast boil and reduce the liquid until it has a thick, saucy consistency. Turn the heat down and melt the grated chocolate in the sauce. 5 Stir in the cream and the pine nuts. Spoon the brandied prunes into the sauce and allow them to heat through. 6 Use a sharp carver and slice the venison thinly. Arrange the meat
on a large serving dish, ladle the thick sauce over the meat and arrange the prunes around it. Serve generously with creamy polenta. * Place the prunes in a jar. Top up with a good-quality brandy, seal the jar and marinate for 24 hours before using. SERVES 10 BEER: LIEFMANS KRIEK-BRUT GOAT’S-MILK CHEESE TART WITH HERBS INGREDIENTS 1 x 400g roll frozen puff pastry, defrosted 3 large eggs 50ml thick cream 15ml finely chopped, fresh mixed herbs with plenty of parsley salt and pepper to taste 4 leeks, chopped and lightly fried in butter 250ml full-fat cream cheese 450g chèvre, sliced sprigs fresh thyme 200g Parma ham, sliced (optional)* METHOD 1 Preheat the oven to 200°C. 2 Line a 24cm fluted quiche dish with the pastry. Paint the pastry with 1 of the egg yolks, then add the leftover egg white to the other eggs and whisk together. Add the cream and chopped herbs, a little seasoning and mix well. 3 Scatter the cooked leeks evenly into the pastry case. Spoon dollops of cream cheese in a random pattern over the leeks. 4 Pour the egg and
HAUTE READS
herb mixture over the leeks, cover with the chèvre slices, garnish with the thyme sprigs and bake for 30 minutes or until the filling has set and the crust is a lovely caramel colour. 5 Serve immediately, garnished with the shards of Parma ham, if using, with a crisp salad and a glass of cold chardonnay. * If you’d like to include the Parma ham, grill it in the oven until completely crisp, then leave to cool and break into shards. Serve the shards sprinkled over the quiche. SERVES 6
Penguin Random House, R395 ISBN 978-1-4323-0937-4
BEER: LIEFMANS FRUITESSE HAUTE READS
70
The Inside Job meet the family
“It’s a celebration of everyone who works with us, they are our family,” proudly says author Sandalene Dale Roberts. It’s a big family, a tribe that shares the life of achieving excellence. Now it has been shared to inspire anyone who has dined at any of the Luke Dale Roberts restaurants. It is a visual explosion of what happens behind the scenes. A book that is different from any other.
Shortmarket Club or Salsify, and make sure you fill one of the blank pages in this keepsake with a personal message from the team.
Extracts from Luke’s diary, revealing quotes, emotive photography and handwritten notes – the book is a tactile collection of visual treats. It’s personal, a true share that takes you behind the scenes. Meet those who work tirelessly and energetically – each person highlighted in the book is also on the cover in caricature. In addition to some superb recipes. You simply must try Freddie’s peri-peri chicken, and to sample true umami, Wes’s Springbok with ponzu. Buy your copy at The Test Kitchen, Pot Luck Club, HAUTE READS
FOR SALE AT WOOLWORTHS AND EXCLUSIVE BOOKS NATIONWIDE AT
R299.00
Available exclusively at all LDR & Co restaurants
72
Haute products
Currently we employ 45 people, based on stats, each job impacts on 5.2 other people. We source much of our material locally and develop our own shapes and glazes.
Images by Andre du Plessis
WHAT IS YOUR PERCEPTION AND GUARANTEE OF QUALITY?
South Africa’s plated chefs proudly display their plates in their restaurants. They are designed and crafted by master ceramist Mervyn Gers who has been collecting ceramics since a very young age. He started making large vessels and pots from home in the mid-2000s. He began looking for larger studio space and heard about a commercial ceramic factory in Paarden Eiland. Mervyn offered to take both premises and staff to prevent potential job loss. Mervyn Gers Ceramics started operating on 1 April 2011 at the Paarden Eiland premises. He noted that the restaurant scene was booming, but that chefs had very few options for interesting tableware, let alone bespoke tableware, so decided to meet the need. We pitched some crafty questions, see what Mervyn has to say. HOW IS ONE SUPPORTING LOCAL BY PURCHASING YOUR PRODUCTS? Because our products are handmade, the more products we need to produce, the more artisans we can employ.
We’ve spent a few years researching and developing our clay body with assistance from Dutch ceramic experts. The clay body is specifically designed to withstand the rigours of commercial kitchens where many staff handle products. We purchased an impacttesting machine, which allows us to monitor the quality of our clay and glaze combinations, ensuring that we maintain industry standards and above for handmade ceramic wares. YOUR NEW RANGE OF GLAZES ARE EXQUISITE, GIVING THEM BEAUTIFUL FINISHES. WHAT ARE THE INTRICACIES OF PERFORMING THIS PROCESS? Glazing is a chemical process, anything from the source of the raw material to the temperature at which you fire can impact the result, so developing a new glaze is a labour of love and takes time. You need to develop the recipe with the optimal levels of all variables first, and then test it on your clay body. It’s important too to test it on various shapes, as some glazes have a different effect on a flat and curved surface. Also, the clay body and the glaze must be compatible – so sometimes you have a lovely hue, but it does not work
HAUTE PRODUCTS
74
on your clay body. You then end up back at the drawing board! We use metal oxides for colour, which provides lovely reactive glazes with depth, rather than flat colours provided by stains. CERAMICS IS A FORM OF ART, TAKING TIME AND PRECISION COMBINED WITH CREATIVE INSPIRATION. WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR NEWEST PRODUCTS ON THE MARKET? We recently launched a range of 17 glazes inspired by the colours and textures of the South African landscape. My favourite one of these would be Ostrich Egg, with a platinum fill. WHAT IS YOUR HOT TIP FOR THE CARE OF CERAMICS? Contrary to what people believe, it’s actually advisable to put our tableware in the dishwasher! HAUTE PRODUCTS
WIN! M-RANGE SET OF SIX PLATES See the competitions page on our website for details.
Watch out for the Spring edition of the Gourmet Guide for an unforgettable tour of volcanic island Reunion, all things island-style and plenty of seasonal recipes. To expose your brand to our haute audience contact us on rsvp@jhpr.co.za www.gourmetguide.co.za Terms and conditions for competitions All competitions featured in this issue will run until 31 August 2019. Winners will be selected at random and will be contacted by 9 September 2019. Gourmet Guide magazine reserves the right to publish names of the winners. Competitions are open to SA residents only. Prizes are not transferable or exchangeable and cannot be redeemed for cash. Employees and contractors to Jenny Handley Performance Management cc, and their immediate family members, are not eligible to enter. Jenny Handley Performance Management cc cannot be held responsible for any errors, omissions and/or technical failures throughout this promotion.