Gourmet Guide magazine - autumn 2019 by Natalie

journeys of flavour MAGAZINE AUTUMN 2019

WIN! PRIZES FROM GREAT DOMAINES DEEP SOUTH DISTILLERY JACANA MEDIA

HAUTE TRAVEL PROPERTY CUISINE DRINKS FAVOURITES READS

Contents

Amuse bouche

WELCOME TO AUTUMN, A TIME WHEN WE START TO COCOON AND COOK A LITTLE MORE AS THE DAYS GET SHORTER AND THE NIGHTS LONGER. WE HAVE SOME SUPERB RECIPES IN THIS EDITION, SOME ELEMENTARY, SOME AMBITIOUS, ALL DELICIOUS. IT’S A TIME WHEN WE COULD START TO PACK ON THE WINTER KILO’S…OR TAKE SOME TIPS FROM THE WHOLESOME TEAM AT SANTÉ WELLNESS RETREAT.

Welcome from the editor 3

Haute travel

Mauritius, take the coastal road to culinary heaven 4 Switzerland, in the land of cheese & chocolate 10 Culinary delights of Durban & surrounds 16

Haute property

Fyn 20 Gåte 26 Santé Wellness Retreat and Spa 30

When haute?

What’s fresh and in season 34

Haute performance

Dineplan 36 Michelin-star restaurants around the world 39

Haute drinks

Curate your own wine cellar 44 Deep South Distillery 47

Content and contributors • Jenny Handley • Natalie Brock • Wilna Combrinck • Debbie Hathway • Christine Lundy • Karen Dudley • Kristen Brock

Haute cuisine

Cover image Vaughan Treyvellan and Le coin Français

Haute favourites

Contact details P.O. Box 32216, Camps Bay, 8040 +27 437 0334 | rsvp@jhpr.co.za www.gourmetguide.co.za jhp_gourmet_guide jenny_handley Jenny Handley Performance Management

Rated chefs from the 2019 JHP Gourmet Guide™ share their recipes 48 A sommelier and producer share a few of their favourite things 56

Haute reads

Karen Dudley 60

Stock images from unsplash.com

South Africa is still celebrating the welldeserved win of Kobus van der Merwe of Wolfgat, awarded ‘Restaurant of the Year’ and best ‘Off Map Destination’ restaurant in the World Restaurant Awards in February. Having won the Haute Provenance award in the 2019 JHP Gourmet Guide™, we knew it would be a cinch! This award is given as part of the growing movement of acknowledging and celebrating the origin of ingredients, making the most of what is available – local, organic and original. Everyone loves winning. I was delighted to be bestowed the ‘Best Food Column’ award by Cape Town Experiences, in esteemed company – Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen won the ‘Stalwart Chef’ award, Byron Thebus of Sense of Taste Chef School won the ‘Rising Star Chef’, and our partners Dineplan won the ‘Most Innovative Tech Solution in the FBI’. There is something for everyone on the menu in this edition – if you too wish to win, or cook, or dine out. Join us on a whirlwind trip to the land of cheese

and chocolate, take a break in magical Mauritius, start your own wine cellar or set a table. If local travel is for you, then consider a culinary tour to Durban and the midlands. In curating the annual printed JHP Gourmet Guide™ with its plate rating we study what the world is wanting in the way of restaurant experiences. This varies from formal fine dining like the 16-course culinary adventure at Gåte, to having a world-class meal in a more relaxed setting, like Japanese-influenced local cuisine – condensing what could be a lengthy kaiseki experience into what could be dubbed Japanese tapas at Fyn. With provenance playing a more celebrated role, diners also wish to see more of who and how their food is being prepared. That’s where we come in – talking to the chefs, finding out what inspires them, and sharing their recipes with you. Whilst the Gourmet Guide team continues to taste, travel and train (we love sharing skills in this wonderful industry we call hospitality), I wish you happy reading and cooking. I urge you to share – invite your friends to share this culinary journey with us.

Jenny Handley

Culinary Heaven

TAKE THE COASTAL ROAD TO

BY DEBBIE HATHWAY

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6 I WAVED UNTIL THE CAR ROUNDED THE CORNER AND I LOST SIGHT OF MY LUX* BELLE MARE FAMILY. IT WAS A RELUCTANT FAREWELL, EASED ONLY BY THE PROSPECT OF AN IMMINENT RETURN VISIT. I’ve given up trying to get Mauritius out of my system. The island and its people hold a magic for me that is difficult to explain. My sense of feeling well when I’m there, rain or shine, has something to do with it. I eat better, healthier, under the watchful eyes of esteemed chefs eager to cater to my every whim. The heat suppresses hunger and increases thirst so I get closer to the desired eight glasses of water a day too. I favour a pescatarian diet, mildly spiced (if at all), and manage only small quantities. Even Michelin-starred chef Vineet Bhatia couldn’t have prepared tinier tastes of his five-course Amari by Vineet menu for me during LUX* Belle Mare’s popular Chefs’ Week in February 2019, coinciding with the celebration of the Chinese

7 New Year. Bhatia’s menu comprised typically flavourful bursts of ingredient combinations that boggle the mind and silence conversation as diners are distracted by the exuberant reactions of their taste buds to his quintessential contemporary Indian cuisine. Every dish is, of course, art on a plate. Even the amuse bouche was presented on an upturned hand modelled from clay. The Chaat Trilogy was a tangy take on three favourite chaats (Indian street food) of aloo papdi, dahi puri and dahi bhalla. If he’d closed his eyes, my host – Ashish Modak, regional manager for LUX* Belle Mare, LUX* Grand Gaube and Merville Beach – well familiar with the conventional presentation of these snacks, might have thought he was eating ice cream instead of a new take on a lentil dumpling had Bhatia not introduced the course. The Amari by Vineet team does special things with seafood and chicken and the IndoChini lobster and smokey tikka certainly showcased their skills in the kitchen. The succulent lobster

The world-class chefs at LUX* Belle Mare in Mauritius delighted gourmands with special menus created for the resort’s second annual Chefs’ Week. HAUTE TRAVEL

9 was prepared in chilli, garlic, soy and coriander, tossed with curry leaf noodles, and finished with a sesame-peanut crumble. The carefully positioned fleshless tail provided decorative flourish. I chose the cardamom-smoked, tomatored-pepper chicken tikka served with tomato chutney, black garlic and churra paratha above the lamb alternative, only just managing to leave enough space for the classic Indian dessert. CHEF VINEET BHATIA

The awesamosas comprised a carrotchocolate samosa filled with slowcooked carrot fudge, curdled into a type of carrot cream used to make the sauce swish on the plate, and the ever-present Bhatia favourite – a lolly of glazed carrot. It was all served and savoured in under two hours so that I could catch the performance of renowned local group, the Famous9, and work off the meal on the dance floor. Bhatia is quite likely the only Michelin-starred chef in the world who would entertain that desire and produce his always incredible concoctions under time pressure, an effort for which I am eternally grateful. Earlier that week I enjoyed a Surf n Turf banquet under the stars at the Sandy Toes restaurant closer to the beach. Oohs and aahs were audible as guests tucked into the small buffet, while a roving group of local singers and musicians played softly in the background. Over the years that I’ve been visiting this hotel, voted third best all-inclusive luxury resort in the

world in the Traveler's Choice Awards by TripAdvisor for 2019, the LUX* Collective’s quest to reduce waste and be ever more sustainable in its overall offering has reflected in healthier options in smaller quantities (to be replenished as necessary) on every buffet. This is noticeable at breakfast, too. Another culinary highlight that week was the Summer specials from Provence evening at the ever-popular Beach Rouge restaurant. Prepared by chef Vikash Joaheer and French-born executive pastry chef Pascale Galette, they knew they’d nailed it when a guest who hails from this area in France said he couldn’t have enjoyed better at home! The amuse bouche was red tuna minute, comprising a thin slice of Provencal ratatouille with salsa of tomato, watermelon and yuzu pearl. I opted for the rockfish soup from Marseille starter, which was absolutely delicious, and a Provencale tian tart in tomato sauce with fresh basil as the main. I could live on this at home – a substantial

portion that was deceptively light and incredibly nourishing. A vegetarian’s dream dish! Dessert was a choice between frozen calisson (candies) or tart with fig and gratinated almond with lavender ice cream. I chose the former, wishing I’d had enough room to try Galette’s version of this Provencale treat. “I worked for a long time in Provence, with one of the best chefs – the late Roger Verge. I was 14 when I met him,” says Galette. “I started in the kitchen, and saw one guy in the corner calmly making extraordinary and elegant creations with chocolate and pastry. I decided I wanted to be like that.”

If you’re salivating reading this, best you book for the next Chefs’ Week celebrating the diverse culinary cultures of Mauritius in November 2019. It’s an extremely popular event so keep an eye on luxresorts.com for the announcement of the confirmed dates. See you there!

I’ve given up trying to get Mauritius out of my system. The island and its people hold a magic for me that is difficult to explain. HAUTE TRAVEL

Cheese & chocolate IN THE LAND OF

Jenny Handley recalls her whirlwind visit to Lausanne, Switzerland.

HAUTE TRAVEL

13 LAUSANNE, A PICTURESQUE CITY WITH ITS COMMANDING POSITION ON LAKE GENEVA, IN THE FRENCH-SPEAKING REGION OF VAUD, SWITZERLAND, IS HOME TO THE INTERNATIONAL OLYMPIC COMMITTEE HEADQUARTERS. THIS OLD CITY, CREEPING UP THE HILL, BOASTS A 12TH-CENTURY GOTHIC CATHEDRAL AS A LANDMARK AMONGST MEDIEVAL STREETS AND SHOPS. THE 19TH-CENTURY PALAIS DE RUMINE HOUSES FINE ART AND SCIENCE MUSEUMS.

Images by Jenny Handley

When you have to be in Lausanne, Switzerland for just a few days, you want to make the most of it. When flying SWISS Business your holiday starts at check-in with a warm welcome and your bags being safely and swiftly swept away. A glass of bubbles on board and I was ready to settle into a delicious dinner, a movie and horizontal sleep. Dinner began with smoked salmon, capers and a balsamic glaze, followed by a chicken breast stuffed with Gruyere with potato rosti, rounded off with the best of Switzerlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cheese and chocolates. A very early, tasty breakfast and then before I knew it, touchdown at Zurich airport. I was relieved to board a direct train from Zurich airport to Lausanne. What should have been a 2.5 hour trip turned into a half-day, three trains and one taxi adventure! Sadly, a train accident had occurred, so after a short while the train stopped at a little station in the middle of nowhere and we were told to alight. The information kiosk

only opens at noon on a Sunday in the country of chocolate, so I turned to a fellow passenger to ask firstly, if she spoke English, and secondly, if she had any suggestions. A few minutes later she returned to invite me to join her and some other inconvenienced travellers to taxi to a station 30 minutes away, past the point of the accident. Before I knew it, I was chatting away to a couple heading home after charity work in Tanzania, my new best friend en route to her knitting convention, and a young woman and her beautifully-behaved Labrador on the front seat. When the taxi drew to a halt at Olten station the Tanzania tourists insisted on getting an itinerary printed for me, and then saw me onto the correct platform (I did not think it would be a good time to tell them that I am a seasoned traveller). Whilst waiting, I struck up conversation with a man who hails from New York, had been in Japan to see his girlfriend, but lives in Lausanne. Two trains and two hours later, after sharing coffee and the most heart-stopping views of the Lake Geneva and the winelands that hug the hills, he walked me to my hotel. The Swiss are efficient yes, but more importantly, so helpful and friendly. Booking into Lausanne Palace Hotel on a Sunday afternoon when all the shops in the town are closed, is no hardship. A bottle of Taittinger Brut Reserve on ice, with local artisanal chocolate, softened the blow that there would be no retail therapy. I opened the doors of my room and admired the panoramic view of the lake and city. Postcard

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14 pretty. It was the perfect place to spend a few days of business and pleasure. I had a full day at leisure ahead before my late-night flight. An hour in the spa and hamman, a healthy breakfast and time to read the New York Times, I was ready for action. I first visited the Olympic Museum and gardens, and then set off on a two-hour trot along Lake Geneva, past runners, people walking their dogs and older persons sitting on the benches watching the world go by. The concierge at Lausanne Palace had suggested that I walk far enough to see the vineyards at Lutry. I walked into this quaint little village from the lake, a warren of shops and houses set on small streets. It is the gateway into the Lavaux Vineyard Terraces, a 30-km stretch of vines, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The overcast skies converted themselves to puffy white cotton wool balls on a bright blue backdrop by the time my walk came to an end. These few hours of reflection were what I needed. After showering and smartening up I took an Uber to stately Beau-Rivage Palace Hotel, walked around the manicured grounds, and gasped at the beautiful high-class items on display in the gift shop when converting to ZAR. I announced myself at Anne-Sophie Picâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s restaurant for what I knew would be an unforgettable

experience. It was. The best way for a South African to be able to afford to eat at a two Michelin-star restaurant is to take advantage of a lunch-hour special. And special it was, each mouthful created a new food memory. The train trip back to Zurich was scenic and uneventful, and after two hours of peace and quiet in the SWISS first and business class lounge, I boarded. Cuisine lived up to expectations. Swiss International Air Lines and their chefs consider the fact that your faculty of taste is affected by the altitude and the dishes were perfectly flavoured. Each season a top chef plans the menu and focuses on one of the cantons of Switzerland. For my flight it was Chef Lorenzo Albrici of Locanda Orico in the Ticino Canton. Ticino was well showcased in the marinated king prawns with melon and the main course of Mediterranean-style salmon. The cheese and chocolates, to which I had become so addicted, were also delicious. I love that passengers are also offered the quicker option should they wish to have a lighter, speedy meal so that they can snooze immediately rather than wait for dinner. No sooner had I opened my eyes after a comfortable night of sleep were my feet back on SA soil, ready to face the day after a whirlwind weekend in the city of cheese and chocolate, with Champagne.

This old city, creeping up the hill, boasts a 12thcentury Gothic cathedral as a landmark. HAUTE TRAVEL

Durban & surrounds CULINARY DELIGHTS OF

Consider cuisine as one of the drawcards to Durban and surrounds

The iconic OYSTER BOX HOTEL offers more than the ubiquitous lighthouse view. The Ocean Terrace curry buffet is a must for any curry lover. Their Grill Room is the perfect place to celebrate fine dining with five-star finesse. If high tea is top of your list, then head to the BEVERLEY HILLS HOTEL where the sumptuous spread satisfies any discerning appetite. Locals are quick to laud THE CHEF’S TABLE in Umhlanga for squeezing Durban onto the fine dining scene. Here humble, talented chef KaylaAnn Osborn has quickly made a name for herself and elevated the coastal town’s reputation for cutting edge, innovative cuisine. Her food philosophy is simple, “I want my food to be forward-thinking, progressive, interesting for me and diners. First and foremost, food must be delicious,” she says. Ask this innovative chef where she chooses to eat, and she suggests Summerhill – “for interesting food created from local produce”, Park Cafe, “For their chicken livers,” and

Glenwood Bakery – “For overboard delicious.” When she headed down to Cape Town recently, she not only secured a dinner reservation at The Test Kitchen, but also the opportunity of cooking there for the day. She is constantly learning, heading further afield to cook with the likes of Clare Smythe and Michel Roux Jnr in London – so know that you will want to return to follow her expansion. As a winner of the SASSI trailblazer award, it comes as no surprise that her favourite ingredient is seafood, sourced from a local fishing boat. Dishes are light, carefully considered and beautifully plated. The Summer pea brulee – whole milk cheese curd, tomato broth, smoked tomato and pea shoot – is delectable. Regulars return for the paella, with cuttlefish, tomato saffron puree, marinated peppers, sardines, chorizo saffron dressing and rice chip. The six-course menu at R595 may make some locals balk at the price but know that every

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HARTFORD HOUSE

mouthful will give a great return on investment. Knowledgeable sommelier Zwai Gumede will give good advice on pairings. HARTFORD HOUSE has a history of accomplished chefs who used this platform to hone their skills – Richard Carstens, Jackie Cameron and Tjiun Hahndiek. A guesthouse with 17 rooms and suites near Mooi River on an equestrian estate, it oozes calm and tranquility. After a sumptuous meal you can rest your head in a room where the Queen and Winston Churchill slept (surely not at the same time!). Brand new and bursting with enthusiasm is Mathew Ambruster, who took over in January this year. Hailing from The Chef’s Table, where he worked after studying and working in the US (where he was born), he has ticked off mountains and city to be at the sea as his first head chef position. Having grown up with a nonna, be sure that you will see his heritage in a perfect pasta somewhere on his tasting menu. He plans to constantly change the menu, to make it interesting and to always, understand the guests. This is a young man, aged 25 years, who knows the importance of the personal touch – like seeing an English couple admiring the bounty of tomatoes in the prolific vegetable garden, and then offering to make a tomato salad for them. This garden is where he finds much of his inspiration.

Mathew’s ethos? “Take an ingredient that is almost not to my liking and make it beautiful. For example crab apple tart – a chef must find the beauty within (and his crab apple tart is truly delicious). Flavour must come first – I smell two different ingredients, then experiment by combining them. I will always find new ingredients, new ways and new pairings.” Expect a menu that starts with gentle flavours that increase in intensity as it progresses. Simplicity is part of Mathew’s art. CAFÉ BLOOM is one of the perfect stops along the Midlands Meander, five routes of venues and artisans. Here local produce is transformed into hearty, tasty dishes. Breakfast, tea (their home bakes are to die for) and a buffet lunch are all worthwhile. Local produce in the Midlands is where the potential of this area lies – from Mooi River butter, Swissland cheese, the full range of dairy products from Indezi River Creamery to Peel’s Honey. A quick chat to new owner of the Mount Shekinah Conference Centre about the potential of the area, and you too will be convinced that this could be the next culinary mile.

OYSTER BOX HOTEL

EXECUTIVE CHEF KEVIN JOSEPH OF OYSTER BOX HOTEL

THE CHEF'S TABLE

HARTFORD HOUSE

THE CHEF'S TABLE

One leaves Durban and surrounds mentally planning a return trip. Next time? Esiweni Luxury Safari Lodge, a new jewel in the Relais & Chateaux crown and 9th Avenue Bistro in Morningside for their innovative, generous cuisine.

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Fynrestaurant HAUTE PROPERTY

HAUTE PROPERTY

Images by Bruce Tuck

Japanese-influenced, Cape-celebrated cuisine, carefully considered SPEAKER’S CORNER MAY BE RENAMED CULINARY DREAM CORNER. ONCE YOU HAVE SETTLED INTO YOUR LEATHER BANQUETTE OR A RINGSIDE SEAT AT THE COUNTER, TAKE A MOMENT TO OBSERVE PRE-SERVICE ACTIVITY AS EVERYONE GATHERS THEMSELVES WITH ENVIABLE SERENITY. EVEN THE LAST BONSAI GETS A GENTLE SPRAY OF WATER. THE OBVIOUS SCRAMBLE OF OPENING A RESTAURANT AT THE END OF 2018 IS OVER. THE TEAM IS STILL EXCITED, SURELY CONFIDENT THAT THEY ARE DISHING UP EXACTLY WHAT DINERS DREAM OF, EVERYONE HAS FOUND THEIR RHYTHM. “ASHLEY AND JENNIFER ARE REALLY THE BEST, THAT’S WHY WE HIT THE GROUND RUNNING,” SAYS WORLD-RENOWNED CHEF PETER TEMPELHOFF. Chefs Peter and Ashley Moss from three-plated restaurant Greenhouse and Jennifer Hugé from three-plated La Colombe have combined their talents

and experience to create a formidable team. Peter and Ashley have embraced the openness of the kitchen, which allows for interaction and everyone to be part of the show. Here the kitchen is truly the heart of the restaurant. The only tablecloth in sight is the white cloud being gently blown over Table Mountain. Your eyes are immediately drawn to the ceiling, where 6000 poplar-wood discs resembling jellyfish are strung on ropes, creating a feeling of intimacy in the open space. Designed and intricately installed by engineers, this 1.5-ton installation of wood is a feat. More wood catches your eye – tables, chopsticks and side plates – before you catch a glimpse of gleaming steel in the exposed kitchen. The mural on the wall behind the stairway is arresting. Look carefully and you will see that the tattoo artist has replicated the designs on chef Ashley’s arms in Africanese style, to draw your attention to the mezzanine level, where a few tables offer the option of privacy. After canapes from bento which could include a miso soup that explodes with flavour, and a Karoo-lamb samosa with lemon atchar and coconut yoghurt, finish by dipping your French bread into bone marrow coal melting over flame. The kaiseki tray is expertly explained – small dishes that in a traditional kaiseki experience would be individually served one after the other. Here they arrive as an array of tempting small dishes. The squid ramen, strips of chokka, simple yet tantalizing in flavour, will make you

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bravely enquire whether it is polite to drink out of the bowl. The answer will be a quick yes, as they wish you to embrace every facet of the food. The impala tataki with miso cream and tempura shiso is apparently already a stalwart on the ever-evolving menu. The palate cleanser is accompanied by tableside theatre, before you devour the crispy duck breast with Katsuobushi, bride eggplant and sancho pepper. Take a break before settling into the sweet kaiseki – nectarine, Rooibos and ginger fight for first place with a Madagascan chocolate with salted Japanese plum and fennel ice cream, and the blueberries with yuzu and coconut. Flavours of Japan and the southern tip of Africa are juxtaposed with aplomb. It is with a level of calm and gentle confidence that Peter, an accomplished yet humble chef, shares his thoughts on the transition from a hotel restaurant to inner city. “Here I can cook more, I’m in the trenches with the guys, prepping, plating starters, cooking the squid or the duck. The first challenging few months are behind us. A restaurant is about passion, but also making money. The concept for this crystallised about two years ago when I looked at restaurants doing well, looked at trends and at what I love doing. Restaurants doing tapas were doing well for the shortened experience and sharing. I love Japanese food. The kaiseki tray is the equivalent of Japanese tapas. It had not been done. There was a gap for not just sushi or tempura. There is a similarity between Japanese and

African culture – look at the beads, rope, wood and stone, these elements in nature exist in both. We are doing food that I want to eat. I like the flavours, the simplicity – low carbs, low fat and healthier. The secret of Japanese food lies in umami, the flavour punch – diners leave not stuffed, but satisfied.” Chef Ashley is all smiles, “It’s so exciting to be here from the start, from concrete to completion – and they’ve done such a good job.” He has loved the creativity, the whole process of seeing the blank canvas transformed into a breathtakingly beautiful restaurant. Classically trained in the European way, Ashley lived and worked in England before coming to SA. “Here the flavour profiles are completely different, with more subtle notes – miso to the Japanese is like butter to the French – and it adds a different richness. The balance is all about minimalism, how much is on a plate. Portion sizes are small, and the condensed kaisekiinspired menu creates balance. The way of service is different – little bowls, interaction – we encourage guests to pick up dishes and to feel the food. This is a SA restaurant, not a Japanese restaurant. We are in Cape Town, but we take a lot of inspiration and influence from Japan. We use the same suppliers, but our approach is different.” Ashley continues, “Here we have taken it to the next level, doing everything we wanted to do before, with no pre-conceptions. One of Peter’s favourite quotes is ‘fortune favours the bold’, so this was a leap of faith. HAUTE PROPERTY

Service is world-class, the attentive and knowledgeable staff do not miss a beat. Enter Jennifer Hugé, who after 17 years at La Colombe, is legendary for elevating the levels of service in SA. She believes in leading by example and can be seen doing rather than instructing, to ensure that service is excellent. “It was time to move out of my comfort zone, I needed the challenge. It’s from Constantia to town, and I live here now. I work closely with the chefs – we taste the food and the wine together. The wine list started small, it is so exciting to search fine and rare wines – already the finer, rare page in the wine list is growing. I have built up great relationships in the industry. I’m still old-school, but will introduce new, funky wines. Food here requires more dry wines, light rather than heavy. The food is very fresh and very aromatic,” says Jennifer.

The Fyn menu is R975, add the wine flight at R595, or order from the carefully-crafted wine list. From 11 March the restaurant will open for dinner on Mondays, and there is a possibility that Saturday lunches could be added to accommodate the many who have not tried Fyn’s fifth floor, five-star epicurean experience.

HAUTE PROPERTY

Gåte Restaurant at Quoin Rock

Different and daring – be entertained and enthralled THE NAME GÅTE, MEANING LABYRINTH OR RIDDLE IN NORWEGIAN, MAY SEEM STRANGE, BUT HAVING DINED THERE, IT ALL, LIKE THE LAST PIECE OF A PUZZLE, SLOTS INTO PLACE. UKRAINIAN BUSINESSMAN, FOOD AND WINELOVER VITALY GAIDUK PURCHASED THE PROPERTY, QUOIN ROCK WINE ESTATE IN THE KNORHOEK VALLEY, IN 2012. HIS SON DENIS IS MD, WHO, WITH HIS WIFE JULIA, AN ARCHITECT AND PROJECT MANAGER, TRANSFORMED A BLANK CANVAS INTO ARGUABLY ONE OF THE MOST EXQUISITE WINE ESTATE RESTAURANTS THE WESTERN CAPE BOASTS – WITH NO EXPENSE OR ATTENTION TO DETAIL SPARED. The approach to this property in the Simonsberg mountain range is breathtaking, sloping hills are covered in green vines, and your very last breath is expelled with pleasure as you enter the restaurant. By now you have worked up an appetite in the gardens admiring the bronze sculptures by

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Charles Haupt. The walkway to the entrance of the function room is lined with magnolia trees, perfect for discerning brides, the walkway to the wine tasting and restaurant space crowned by metal beams. Your eyes are drawn to the central counter under a breathtaking, circular woodand-light installation by Pierre Cronje, who also crafted the wooden tables, graced with a discreet Q logo. Look carefully and you will see a chef with eye-catching tattoos standing quietly at the door to welcome you. Calm, humble and unassuming, even on a day when there are power outages and the entire 16-course menu is being created outdoors, even the rice cooked on the braai. Talk to him about food, and his eyes light up. Conceptual chef Rikku O'Donnchu, born to a Swedish mother and Irish dad, studied chemistry and music, evident in the molecular gastronomy and artistic notes in presentation. He has learnt with legends, worked at Michelin-starred Merchants in London, at Restaurant Sat Bains in Nottingham, England, plus making a name for himself in the UK Master Chef Professionals series in 2016. He worked in Cape Town at Sevruga in the V&A Waterfront before changing the culinary landscape in Stellenbosch at Gåte. This 40-seater restaurant is where local produce (with global delights like caviar making guest appearances) is transformed into culinary masterpieces. This theatrical dining deserves an

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encore for being brave and avant-garde. His attention to detail is exemplary, his need to surprise dramatic. Purist epicures may raise their eyebrows, but those wanting something out of the ordinary, will raise their hands in applause. “I’m mischievous, I like to play. Chefs take themselves too seriously – it’s just food, it’s not about saving lives. Here it is fun dining, not fine dining,” says Rikku. Head chef Warwick King (formerly of The Stack and Delaire Graff) is also no doubt having fun. The menu, a brass, 16-sided cube, demands constant turning to detect which surprise will rock you next. From ramen to Wagyu beef, quail to scallops, everything is experimental, served

with a ‘big reveal’. Let’s refrain from revealing all, here are a few small clues instead. Table-side service is world-class, with detailed explanations part of the charm. Expect a cigar dipped in ash, a canned wonder, eggs on straw, savoury macarons, Wagyu beef seared on hot stone, and even delicious peacock. Your journey, all perfectly paired with Quoin Rock wines, may be interrupted with the ultimate treat of sipping Louis XIII Remy Martin. Feeling like royalty, you know the end is nigh…as your espresso arrives with aplomb. The entire experience is threaded together like a symphony of surprises which ends on a high note.

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Autumn

SHARING SECRETS FOR A HEALTHY

Food is the crux of the matter, as Hippocrates said, “Let food be our medicine.”

At the beautiful Sante Wellness Retreat and Spa, a member of the Healing Hotels of the World, there is a different attitude to health and wellbeing. Here you are instantly re-energised by the tranquil space and surrounds of the Drakenstein Mountains. One can book into the day spa, or sign up for the ultimate, a health optimizing retreat – a world first. Here they know that nutritious food is the foundation of good health. Meals are crafted using unrefined ingredients without sugar, diary, gluten, preservatives, colourants or additives. We booked for one of the popular, regular ‘Chefs Sharing Secrets’ dinner at the retreat restaurant, which is open to the public for dinner. Executive chef Terrence Ford takes pride in preparing and demonstrating a healthy threecourse menu whilst diners observe. Peppered with interesting nuggets

of nutritional information, his generous sharing of advice as abundant as the flavour and goodness in his dishes. Starting with organic bubbly and canapes, we dined on bone broth with tomato essence, then a tuna tartare, followed by walnut-stuffed chicken served with a delicious medley of vegetables in season. A vegetarian option is always on offer. Dessert was a toasted fruit loaf with coconut ice cream, a chia-seed cracker and eggnog custard. Terrence has truly embraced the methods and ethos of cooking – what is fresh, seasonal, and good for health, coming up with inventive ways of replacing dairy, wheat and sugar. He is joined in the quest by Dr Helen Muir, a respected medical doctor who went on to study homeopathy. Exposed to the value of alternatives such as nutrition, massage, yoga and acupuncture, she then branched into integrative medicine.

HAUTE PROPERTY

32 Dr Muir explains health optimization quite simply, “It gets to the triggers and causes of a disease or condition. It looks at why someone is not functioning at their optimum level. It can pick up, with non-invasive, cutting edge technology, why someone’s energy is low or not feeling well. We then look at fixing the diet and increasing cellular activity with technology, not a pill or a drink.”

WITH AUTUMN UPON US, DR MUIR GIVES SOME SIMPLE, EASY-TO-APPLY ADVICE: • Eat seasonal foods. • Eat local. Eat what is grown in your area, it has adapted to toxins that are particular to that area and can protect itself. • Try to grow your own greens, even in a box. • Rocket grows like a weed, and baby tomatoes too are easy. • Up your vitamin C intake, preferably plant-based. Remember that foodbased nutrition is absorbed better. • Prevent chest infections – include onion, nuts and apples in your diet. • Bring in broth, it is good for your gut lining. Try to use free-range protein as the base. • Eat sufficient fruits, vegetables and salads. With food often being of such poor quality, you need between eight and 10 portions (four to five cups) a day. • Eat protein three times a day. Variety is important. If you are including nuts, then try to have different nuts each day, and remember that macadamias are excellent for neurological rebuilding. • Vitamin D is essential, but food is not a good source. Try to have 20 minutes (10 000 unites) in the sun daily, in a bikini or with your shirt off – a walk with the dog covered in clothing is no good.

Helen’s advice extends beyond diet. How about a cyber detox? Keep your cellphone on airplane mode always, look at it just three times a day, and ensure that your Wi-Fi is off at night.

What's in season SWISS CHARD, THE STAR OF AUTUMN

As the long days of Summer slip away and Autumn arrives it’s advisable to boost your immune system before tucking into winter-warming dishes, and eat as many fruits and vegetables as you can.

Swiss chard is thought of as a Winter vegetable however it’s best eaten in Autumn. The other misconception is that it originated in Switzerland – but it’s origins are reputed to be Sicilian. The word chard is of Latin origin, meaning thistle. Popular in Italian and French cuisine, especially popular in the Provence and Rhone valleys, it’s high in vitamins A, C and K. A variety of the beet family, it can be used to replace spinach or kale. It is sometimes referred to as Sicilian beet, leaf beet or silver beet. Rainbow chard, with colourful stalks, is seen in pale green, and brighter yellow, orange and red, adding vibrant colour to a dish.

Some consider it the poor cousin of spinach, but it packs as much punch. Look for vibrant colours, unbruised leaves and stems when shopping – the leaves must be firm. The roots, as with beets, are not edible. It is easy to grow, especially in alkaline soil and warm weather. It grows over half a metre high, with a lifespan of two years. It needs to be refrigerated once picked, preferably in paper towel to soak up moisture. It needs to be well rinsed, and can be steamed, sauteed, roasted or simply boiled. It is great in smoothies and juices. Best news? Very low in kJ. The health benefits of eating Swiss chard include regulating blood sugar, improving bone health, brain function and blood circulation, in addition to being good for your blood pressure and therefore heart health.

WHEN HAUTE?

Curbing carbs? CAULIFLOWER has become the obvious choice, COURGETTES a close second, but let’s be innovative and consider all things that start with a b: BABY MARROWS, BEANS, BEETROOT, BROCCOLI and BRUSSELS SPROUTS. They are all fresh at your fingertips this season, as are RADISHES, LEEKS and CELERY, the choice is endless.

The grand GRANADILLA has an abundance of vitamin C to help boost your immune system as we head to colder months. Enjoyed in fruit salads, drinks and desserts. STRAWBERRIES, GOOSEBERRIES and BLUEBERRIES all still in season, packed with vitamins, antioxidants and fibre – all good for you.

WHEN HAUTE?

Haute performance

Every good business starts with a dream. Dineplan, the revolutionary restaurant booking app, has realized theirs – offering a solution to restaurants and diners.

THE GOURMET GUIDE QUESTIONED PASSIONATE FOUNDERS GREG WHITFIELD (G) AND MARTIN ROSE (M) TO DISCOVER HOW THESE ENTREPRENEURS MADE IT HAPPEN, TOGETHER. HOW DID YOU MEET AND HOW WAS THE BUSINESS CONCEPTUALIZED? G: We met at school, at Michaelhouse, and both attended UCT. I worked in London in investment banking and then travelled South America for six months. M: I too worked in London, not at the same time as Greg, developing much of the software for a new online restaurant booking company called ComeDine. The concept was based on London’s TopTable model. I then learnt of a competitive company that had just

launched in Cape Town called Table Magic and I had to decide to give up on ComeDine, or to quit my job sooner than later and give this a shot. So, I resigned, cancelled some exciting holiday plans that included Bermuda and the Cinque Terre, to come to Cape Town. HOW DID COME DINE, WHICH EVOLVED INTO DINEPLAN, START? It was on a Wednesday, over a beer, that the dynamic duo discussed the business potential, and by Friday Greg had resigned from his job. M: We were young and naive. We found office space and started signing up restaurants. Booking volumes were far lower than we expected, we then realised the value of automation and real-time availability. ComeDine started in 2011, and in 2013 we launched Dineplan.

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G: I rented my car out to cover rent, bought a scooter and ate a lot of baked beans! For two years we drew no salaries. BIGGEST MILESTONES? G: The day we stopped putting money into the business I felt like a massive stress had lifted. M: Drawing our first pay cheque – R2000. BIGGEST CHALLENGE? G: The financial risk, and taking things personally. If it is your business, the buck stops with you. M: Trying to sell with no track record. Restaurants would ask, who else is using it? Once one jumps on board others will. Bertus Basson was one of our early clients.

TURNING POINT? G: Getting a few successful chefs to back us. M: Franck Dangereux at The Foodbarn Restaurant Noordhoek sent a mail to fellow chefs saying they needed to support us. This got our foot in the door. Because we were local we could have a face-to-face meeting, do a demo and understand each of their needs. BIGGEST LIFE LESSON? G: Knowing we are making the right decision at the right time. Getting to use our gut instinct. In the beginning we did not know anything about starting a business, and were stumped by the legalities of SARS, how to employ staff etc.

HAUTE PERFORMANCE

Expertise comes at a price and we could not afford it. M: We struggled to find our first employee, and we could not afford much. ETHOS ABOUT HIRING? G: Good cultural fit is essential – a new team member must gel with the rest of the team, needs to be able to have fun, braai and drinks together. We need to keep this office environment a good place to work. M: If we have any doubt we do not hire that person. Most of our staff come from recommendations from our network, family and friends. We are currently expanding our team of 12. WHAT WOULD YOU DO DIFFERENTLY? G: What we did incorrectly we would not change as we learnt from all our mistakes. It took a long time to value what we had built, and our offering. Initially we undervalued what we had. M: To be more confident. We feared overseas competition coming and gobbling us up. We realise now that the restaurants value the fact that we are local. Whilst we feared competition, every time they came it was a kick up the butt, it kept us on our toes, constantly innovating. We cannot relax, competition is good.

HIGHLIGHT? G: There is no ceiling, we have the freedom to do anything, and are directly rewarded. If you work at 9pm, you earn more. If you come up with a better idea, you can try it – that is our target, the next idea. M: The pleasure of owning this business is that we say, ‘Let’s make some tech to help restaurants be awesome.’ G: We have the ‘power’ to create a solution, to launch it and see it adapted by the industry. We are never completely on holiday, but we have flexibility. The responsibilities do not go away.

Dining under stars

Jenny Handley shares some of her stellar Michelin-star restaurant experiences

LOWLIGHT? M: On the first day trying to sell ComeDine, hitting Long Street in Cape Town, with my mother in tow, to sell the concept to restaurants, and being told by an owner that we had no chance! ABOUT PARTNERSHIPS? G: We are lucky, we have known each other since school days and trust each other. M: We share the burdens and the success. The moral(s) of the story? Good to work with people you trust, nothing wrong with cementing decisions over a beer… and Bermuda can wait!

HAUTE PERFORMANCE

ARZAK

HAUTE PERFORMANCE

LE PARC LES CRAYERES

ELENA AND JUAN MARI ARZAK

IN THE US, UK, EUROPE AND THE EAST MANY RESTAURANTS ASPIRE TO ATTAINING MICHELIN-STAR STATUS. IN SOUTH AFRICAN WE ARE PROUD TO HAVE THE PLATE RATING, AWARDED BY THE JHP GOURMET GUIDE, WHICH EQUATES TO THESE GLOBAL STANDARDS. ONE PLATE IS AWARDED FOR EXCELLENT CUISINE, TWO FOR EXCEPTIONAL DINING THAT DEMANDS A DETOUR AND THREE FOR WORLD-CLASS DESTINATION DINING – WORTHY OF A FLIGHT. INITIAL VISITS ARE ANONYMOUS, AND THE LAST REVIEW IS ANNOUNCED TO ALLOW THE GOURMET GUIDE INTERACTION (AND INTERROGATION) WITH THE CHEF! In 1900, the founders of the Michelin guide, brothers Edouard and Andre Michelin, created a guide for motorists suggesting where they could service their cars and enjoy a good meal. In 1926 they added their star-rating system, and awarded outstanding establishments for excellence in cuisine. Their inspectors, expertly trained food professionals, visit

restaurants anonymously. Restaurants are simply rated and included in the guide, or given one (very good), two (excellent) or three stars (the best of the best). The system exists in countries where Michelin have tyre factories. Michelin stars are awarded to a restaurant, not a chef. THREE STARS LE BERNARDIN in New York has, in addition to its three Michelin stars, been rated the top restaurant in the city. French-born chef Eric Ripert is renowned for his unique, modern French-style seafood. The menu is divided into almost raw, barely touched and lightly cooked. The eight-course menu is all-consuming, and one seldom looks up to celebrity spot. Dishes like the seared langoustine with fennel mousseline and spiced citrus-sambal sauce will leave an indelible memory in all your senses. Desserts, like the grapefruit sorbet and Black Forest dessert, end an epicurean experience on a high

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BELMOND LE MANOIR AUX QUAT'SAISONS

JENNY AND CHEF ERIC RIPERT OF LE BERNARDIN

note. Service is swift, attentive and seamless. Ripert is charismatic, and part of the treat is probably meeting the maestro himself, as he works the room, reconnecting with regulars and making newbies swoon. An afternoon in his library where he and his team gather inspiration from more than 1000 cookbooks, was a career highlight after an exceptional meal. Most recently for 2019, Le Bernardin was ranked number one in the World by La Liste, the global food guide and review aggregator. ARZAK, in San Sebastian, holds three stars, with fourth-generation chef Elena, now at the helm, with her father, Juan Mari, by her side. They pride themselves on serving elegant, modern Spanish cuisine, known as new Basque cuisine. A tour of their innovation lab, where only a handful of recipes make it to the menu, was followed by a peek into the wine cellar. Here they have more than 100 000 wines, carefully curated, including a showing from South Africa. Dishes are inventive, exciting with a dash of theatre – like having an iPad slid

discreetly under a glass plate to provide a real ocean experience. Plating is artful, flavours are sublime. My dish of the day, their signature, was the pigeon with potato feathers. RxC TWO STARS LE GAVROCHE in Mayfair, London, is classical, yet extravagant French cuisine. It is here that Michel Roux Jnr, and his father before him, cemented London as a culinary destination. The traditional service is charming and thoughtful. A series of classical dishes and ingredients like rabbit or a soufflé, and a cheese trolley that will have you gasping, will bring a sequence of flavour sensations to a close. Michel coming to your table for a chat, will be the highlight. It was a treat to meet him again in Paris when attending Taittinger’s le Culinaire Prix cookery competition, to discover the intricacies of maintaining his standards of excellence. It is interesting to note that he was groundbreaking in preventing diners taking photographs in the

HAUTE PERFORMANCE

42 restaurant, to ensure that diners enjoy their meal at the right temperature, in the right ambience without distractions. They are offered professional photographs should they require them! BELMOND LE MANOIR AUX QUAT’SAISONS, Raymond Blanc’s iconic manor house in Oxfordshire, demands more than a day. A walk around his vast kitchen garden, where inspiration and many of the dishes originate from, is a good way to whet your appetite for what will surely be an indelible gastronomic occasion. Take a table with garden views before savouring dishes that perfectly showcase classic French cuisine, with a light touch. Sophisticated fare, and the desserts, nothing short of a dream. Consider an overnight stay to experience a stay in the country estate, with a cookery course to follow – the chocolate course is a must. RxC LE PARC LES CRAYERES ensures that a stay in Reims cannot be completed without the highlight of dining in a Michelin star restaurant. A leisurely lunch at the sister restaurant, Brasserie Le Jardin, was a good warm-up for dinner, which is the real deal. Every nuance of the evening was refined, from being led onto the terrace with Belle Epoque to start, chosen from more than 750 Champagnes on the extensive wine list. Chef Philippe Mille demonstrates original, yet refined cuisine, with unified silver service. As each cloche is lifted, there are audible gasps in the room. Premium produce is

the base of each dish – expect lobster, langoustines and foie gras. The desserts are a work of art. RxC ANNE-SOPHIE PIC at the Beau-Rivage Palace has many stars across her restaurants, with two well-deserved ones at this restaurant in the garden of the Beau-Rivage Palace overlooking Lake Geneva. Classic, inventive, innovative cuisine draws diners from far and wide. I savoured every sight and bite from the first morsel – bright-green yuzu and pastis spheres (yuzu inside and white chocolate outside) that were best enjoyed by popping whole into my mouth. The amuse bouche included a mushroom cream on top of a tapioca crisp and pine tree leaf crisp, and beetroot and celeriac chips. The Matcha green tea bread with Madagascar tonka bean and pepper butter was sublime. The first of the three courses was frog legs from Vallorbe cooked a la meuniere with wild mushrooms, egg yolk cooked at 64 degrees, in a clear broth infused with Nikka whisky. I was ready for the red mullet with celeriac, yellow Bourbon coffee, cinnamon leaf and a bergamot emulsion. Light and delicious, presented and explained in perfect English by the service team who executed every move seamlessly. I thought I was finishing with dessert – mirabelles from Lorraine with yellow wine – offered at the same time as a vast selection of Swiss and French cheese on a trolley – but was then filled to elegant sufficiency with chocolates. These were flavoured with mango, raspberry and rhubarb. A walk around the gardens brought a beautiful experience to a close.

HAUTE PERFORMANCE

ARZAK

ONE STAR ORO at the Belmond Hotel Cipriani is a legendary, landmark hotel in Venice, a peaceful retreat from the hustle and bustle of millions of tourists. The crescendo here is to dine at Oro, where the gold-coloured ceiling sets the scene for an unforgettable meal. Chef Davide Bisetto plays with flamboyance and fine ingredients to create dishes that are exquisitely presented in line with the setting. Murano glass features in the plated dishes that could feature in one of the famed art galleries of the waterborne city. The focus here is on producing pure flavours from fine ingredients.

LA SIGNORIA is on the island of Corsica with its French feel at the top, and Italian influence at the bottom. Most of the Michelin-star restaurants are centred in Calvi, in the north. This superb Relais & Chateau art hotel, an 18th century manor house in a pine forest, ensures that the restaurant matches the look and ambience. Top quality ingredients are transformed into dishes with distinctive taste. Dine al fresco or in the intimate indoor restaurant, but wherever know that you will be treated to a skillful blend of Corsican flavours, with an Asian undertone, by chef Alexandre Fabris. RxC RxC - these properties are part of the Relais & Chateaux collection

Michelin stars are awarded to a restaurant, not a chef. HAUTE PERFORMANCE

Curate your own wine cellar

Dreaming of building your unique wine cellar but don’t know where to start? Here are a few tips to get you started by food and wine lover, Christine Lundy, Marketing Manager of Great Domaines GAME PLAN Before you rush to the bottle store, do some online purchases or call your favourite importer. Take a step back and think about your game plan. Buying wine and collecting wine is a totally different concept to buying to drink, especially as more than 95% of the world’s wines are meant to be consumed within a year or two after release. Buying wine for immediate consumption is often based on an impulse linked to your current mood and preference. Collecting wine means making some educated purchases, planning, patience and a long-term commitment. It also means that you will have the opportunity to drink some of the greatest wines at their optimum, as some need decades to reach their destined complexity and maturity. LIFESTYLE AND COST Based on your lifestyle decide how many bottles you realistically foresee

that you will need. There is no point in overstocking your cellar if you are not going to have many opportunities to serve and share your wines. You don’t need to have a lot of money to start your collection. Obviously the bigger the budget the more and better quality you get but if you buy cleverly you can start a decent collection with just R5,000 per year, increase it to R15,000 or even R50,000 and then you are in business! You may not be able to buy a premier or Grand Cru Burgundy, but you can buy a village wine from a reputable domaine. Many prestigious producers also produce a second label (like the Guidalberto from Sassicaia, of Château Musar’s Hochar Père et Fils) and this is often a good place to start.

to drink now and 80% to mature with varied drinking windows. Don’t forget to include some bigger formats such as magnums, they are perfect vessels for aging and perfect for hosting as one bottle is often never enough. This should include red and white, young and mature wines, every day and prestige bottles. Aim to stock your cellar with a rough ratio of three reds to one white, and bear in mind that many white wines (except top Chardonnays from Burgundy, Rieslings from the Mosel and Loire Valley Chenin Blancs as well as Swartland), quickly lose their freshness and might oxidise if not stored in perfect conditions.

THE BALANCED CELLAR

A good wine collector always has some bubbles, aged vintage Champagne or MCCs develop beautifully exotic tertiary characters. And as meals should never finish without a sweet note some half bottles of Noble Late Harvest wines

Eventually it will be all about personal taste but a balanced cellar should contain wines to suit any occasion following a ratio of about 20/80, 20%

HAUTE DRINKS

BUBBLES

from Germany, South Africa, France and Hungary are a must. Most collectors aim to create a range spanning wine regions, style and vintages. Aspire to create breadth and depth to enable you as some point to create horizontal (explore one wine type across multiple producers and countries) or vertical tastings (same wine, multiple vintages). Also remember that as you embark on this journey of discovery, your tastes will evolve along the way, so don’t be afraid of taking advice on wine styles to cellar that may not be to your tastes initially. PROVENANCE Do your homework. In addition to getting the right wine at the right price, you also need to make sure that it has been stored in perfect conditions and if imported that the shipment has been done in temperature-controlled containers. Do some reading or take a course such as the WSET (Wine & Spirit Education Trust), learn about the world’s

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WIN! AN EXPLORER CASE – A SELECTION OF LOCAL AND INTERNATIONAL WINES FROM GREAT DOMAINES See the competitions page on our website for details.

not near kitchen equipment with a motor. The best option is, where possible to keep your wine in their original cases.

major wine regions, key producers, styles and grape varieties. STORAGE AND CELLARING Good storage is a pre-requisite to starting a good wine collection, the best way to guarantee a longer life. Lying your bottles horizontally in a rack means that the liquid is in touch with the cork and prevents it from drying out. Basic conditions are a space where the temperature is constant and no more than 19 degrees. The ideal temperature should be between 11C and 14C. Changes in temperature will affect the taste of the wine: too hot and the wine will age too quickly with cooked flavours. Too cold and the cork can be affected, and risk causes of seepage and oxidative flavours. If you are aiming for long term storage then you need about 12C, but for short term (i.e. 5 years or so) then 18 to 20C is fine. If stored against an external wall, make sure it is not north facing. In addition, your cellar should be dark as sunlight disperses the molecules in the wine the result is lifeless and colourless wine. It should also be vibration free so

Wines have a limited lifespan so keep a record of each wine to make sure you drink them in their prime drinking window. If you are unsure you can use a Coravin to access a sample from the bottle without compromising the quality of the wine inside. A Coravin is a device that provides the means to extract wine out of your chosen bottle – without having to pull out the cork or even disturbing the foil cap or wax that conceals it. Lastly have fun! Collecting wine is a way to travel in time and places from the comfort of your own home. As British author Jeanette Winterson wrote, “Wine is wonderful. Wine is earth and sunshine, frost and harvest. It is solace and celebration.” Christine has recommended a wine pairing for each recipe featured in this edition.

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Deep South Distillery WIN!

ONE OF SIX GIN GIFT BOXES See the competitions page on our website for details.

HAND-CRAFTED WITH LOVE, CARE AND PRIDE

Located in the fynbos-enriched Cape Peninsula, Deep South Distillery specializes in artisanal, hand-crafted spirits. Paying tribute to the unique floral kingdom and surrounds, both their gins, Cape Dry and Ruby, are gold medal award-winners. With a growing reputation, this warm and friendly craft distillery shares knowledge and fun in equal measure. Pay them a visit by booking a tour-and-tasting, sample from their gin recipe and botanical library, build your own cocktails and find out why the penguin is upside-down. Or purchase a bottle or two and try their gin-o-licious cocktails yourself. Support local, one sip at a time. WATERMELON GIN SMASH

RUBY HIBISCUS G&T

INGREDIENTS 50ml Deep South Ruby Gin 75ml of pulped, seedless watermelon 25ml simple syrup 100ml club soda 2 lime slices sprig of mint

INGREDIENTS 50ml Deep South Ruby Gin 200ml Barker and Quin hibiscus tonic slice of sweet ripe orange sprig of fresh garden thyme

METHOD 1 Pour gin into a glass with 3 to 4 ice cubes. 2 Stir in crushed watermelon. 3 Add soda to taste. 4 Garnish with 2 lime slices and a sprig of mint.

METHOD 1 Pour gin over ice. 2 Add chilled hibiscus tonic. 3 Garnish with slice of orange and float a generous sprig of thyme on the top. CONTACT admin@deepsouthdistillery.co.za +27 21 783 0129

HAUTE DRINKS

Gourmet Guide recipes JHP Gourmet Guideâ&#x201E;¢ rated chefs share their recipes HAUTE CUISINE

SEAWEED SALAD WITH MUSHROOMS AND SEARED SALMON BY CHEF HAROLD HURTADA OF NOBU

Image by Claire Gunn

51 OSTRICH FILLET AND PEARL COUSCOUS SALAD INGREDIENTS Grilled ostrich fillet 4 fillets salt, pepper extra virgin olive oil Pearl couscous 1C pearl couscous 1 onion, diced 1 carrot, diced 1t harissa paste 1t cumin ½ cucumber salt to taste Garnish labneh (Greek yoghurt) pomegranate molasses METHOD Grilled ostrich fillet 1 Season with salt, pepper and extra virgin olive oil. 2 Grill in a hot pan until medium rare. 3 Rest the fillet for a few minutes before slicing across the grain.

Image by Jono Nienaber

Pearl couscous 1 Boil the pearl couscous in water for approximately 9 minutes, until al dente. 2 Fry onions, carrots, harissa and cumin. 3 Slice cucumber in half, lengthways and deep seed. 4 Blow torch cucumber and dice. 5 Combine all ingredients together and mix well. 6 Season.

OSTRICH FILLET AND PEARL COUSCOUS SALAD BY CHEF GRAHAM NIELSON OF 9TH AVENUE BISTRO

SEAWEED SALAD WITH MUSHROOMS AND SEARED SALMON INGREDIENTS Salad 20g wakame seaweed 200g salmon dash sunflower oil, to sear Sauce dot of wasabi 30ml rice vinegar 15ml light soy sauce 1t sunflower oil Plating 10 leaves baby spinach 50g shiitake mushrooms, some sliced and others left whole 1 spring onion, finely chopped METHOD Salad 1 Soak the seaweed in warm water for 5 minutes then drain and squeeze out any excess water. If the wakame is uncut, chop it into bite-sized pieces. 2 Sear the salmon in a frying pan in a dash of sunflower oil for 30 seconds on each side. 3 Remove from the pan and slice thinly. Sauce 1 Mix all the ingredients together and set aside.

PLATING 1 Serve grilled ostrich and couscous with a tablespoon of labneh and drizzle with pomegranate molasses.

PLATING 1 Arrange spinach leaves, mushrooms, seaweed pieces and salmon in a bowl. 2 Top with the spring onion and serve with the sauce on the side.

SERVES 4

SERVES 1

WINE: DAVID & NADIA GRENACHE 2017 (SA) – R330

WINE: BASTARDO 2017 FROM CONCEITO (PORTUGAL) – R360

53 AN AERATED SOUP OF FRESH GREENS, HAM HOCK, BRAISED LENTILS AND POACHED HEN’S EGG INGREDIENTS Soup 1 bunch fresh spinach or Swiss chard salt 1 bunch spring onions 250g frozen sweet peas extra virgin olive oil Ham hock 300g smoked pork hock Lentils 50g unsalted butter ½C black or brown lentils chicken or vegetable stock Poached egg white wine vinegar 4 free-range chicken eggs

Image by Mike Bosse

Garnish fresh herbs, such as chickweed, nasturtiums, sorrel and/or watercress

BY CHRIS PAPAYANNES, FORMER CHEF AT HARTFORD HOUSE

METHOD Soup 1 Start by preparing your greens. Remove unwanted stems from your spinach and chard leaves. 2 Add a pinch of salt to a gently simmering pot of water before blanching your leaves, spring onions and peas. These should not spend more than 60 seconds in the water (in order to preserve freshness, flavour and colour). 3 Once removed, put these straight into a bath of ice-cold water. This aids in preserving colour and vibrance. 4 Once chilled sufficiently, add your greens to a blender, and starting blending while gradually adding some more of the chilled water until reaching

the desired consistency. 5 Slowly add in drizzles of olive oil (while blending) in order to emulsify the soup, giving it body and a creamy texture. This should definitely not be too thick, but also not too thin – look for the consistency of a soft yoghurt. 6 Check the seasoning of your soup, adjusting by adding more salt if necessary. 7 Pass this through a fine sieve. This soup can be warm or cold. Ham hock 1 Pull apart chunks of the ham hock and set aside for dressing the soup. Lentils 1 Add the butter to a saucepan over low to medium heat. 2 Gently start ‘toasting’ the lentils in the foaming butter in order to add to their flavour and aroma. 3 Gradually start adding your stock, only just covering the lentils each time, allowing them to soak up the liquid and cook at a very gentle pace. Poached egg 1 Add roughly a tablespoon of vinegar to a gently simmering pot of water. 2 Give the water a quick stir before cracking your eggs directly into it. A soft-poached egg should take roughly 3 minutes to cook. PLATING 1 Pour the soup (warm or chilled) into a soup bowl. 2 Position the poached egg into the centre, with the top just peeking out. 3 Spread the chunks of smoked ham around the egg, as well as the lentils. 4 Garnish with fresh herbs and enjoy! SERVES 4 WINE: RALL WHITE 2017 (PETER) – R310

Chablis from William Fèvre (France, Burgundy) – R385

GREEN BEANS, ROAST PEARL ONIONS, CROUTON AND GOATS' CHEESE

Green beans and onions 100g peeled shallots or pearl onions 200g green beans 100g goats’ cheese at room temperature 50g rocket 1 large handful of croutons 1 stem of picked mint 1t capers METHOD Dressing 1 Whisk all the ingredients, except the olive oil, together. 2 Add the oil slowly to make a lovely versatile mustard vinaigrette.

Green beans and onions 1 Preheat oven to 150°C. 2 Roast onions in olive oil, salt and pepper until soft and caramelized. (You might need to add a splash of water in the roasting tray at the beginning to help them along). 3 Top your green beans and blanch in salted water for about 4 minutes, or until tender. 4 Allow to steam dry (because if they’re still wet, the dressing will not adhere to the green beans). PLATING 1 Place all the ingredients, except the cheese, in a bowl. 2 Dress appropriately with mustard dressing (you want it to be quite heavily dressed). 3 Divide equally amongst 4 plates. Scatter cheese over the top. SERVES 4

This is a rich starter that will be surprisingly filling and would also make a great accompaniment to any meal. HAUTE CUISINE

BY CHEF GILES EDWARDS OF LA TÊTE

Image by Claire Gunn

INGREDIENTS Dressing 1t Dijon mustard 1t white wine vinegar ½ lemon, juiced 100ml olive oil

57 FOOD FRAGRANCE? The smell of a combination of garlic and ginger frying in the kitchen – now that gives me an instant appetite! And of course, it reminds me of my mom’s cooking.

When the Gourmet Guide fired a few questions at humble ZWAI GUMEDE, sommelier at The Chef’s Table in KZN, his sense of adventure was rapidly uncorked.

HAUTE FAVOURITES

QUOTE? “Worthy or not, my life is my subject, and my subject is my life,” Giacomo Casanova, from his memoirs.

PLACE OF RELAXATION?

CAREER HIGHLIGHT?

Under the mango tree by the river at my mom’s house on those rare free Sundays. Normally with a book…not necessarily to read it but to put over my face to block the bright sunlight or pelt the bugs disturbing my serenity.

The day I packed my bags and ventured on a wine adventure to the Cape Winelands, with no knowledge of wine but armed with the belief that I can learn and be driven by my passion for discovery. I am still grateful to Judy Brower of wine.co.za, without whom I wouldn’t be on this platform responding to these questions. She took a risk with me and offered me a job and introduced me to the word ‘sommelier’…fast forward a few years, I am employed as one at The Chef’s Table. Still feels like a dream.

READ?

A few of my favourite things

planning at this time ‘cos it’s when my mind is most clear.

I am a sucker for non-fiction in all kinds of subjects – politics, history, science, philosophy and astronomy. Currently, I am fixated with the classic A History of Time by Stephen Hawking. How can one person know so much? TRAVEL DESTINATION? Now this remains a dream destination for now, but I plan to visit the Soneva Jani Resort in the Maldives one day. There’s just no other place like it! With those breathtaking villas floating over crystal blue waters and the view of the ocean stretching for kilometres…and of course not to mention, the private wine tasting room. TIME OF THE DAY? The two-hour period between 5 and 7am. I find that I am at my best here. It’s quiet and still. The air is still fresh and clean. I do most of my reflection and

CANNOT LIVE WITHOUT? My family. The moments shared together on those rare occasions and their growing tolerance for my need to ‘educate’ them on every bottle of wine we share. I don’t know how they do it. I am grateful. KITCHEN IMPLEMENT? If a corkscrew doesn’t count, then I will have to say it’s my blender. That thing is magic and there seem to be no limits to its abilities. I can transform a simple good ol’ fruit or vegetable into a scrumptious, mouth-watering juice or healthy cocktail. And I am not saying I am known for adding other not-sofreshly made beverages to the juice.

HAUTE FAVOURITES

SINCE 2010, RIO LARGO OLIVE OIL, PRODUCED LOCALLY IN THE WESTERN CAPE, HAS WON A STRING OF COVETED INTERNATIONAL AWARDS. THE GOURMET GUIDE TEAM CAUGHT UP WITH PASSIONATE AND PROUD CO-OWNER, BRENDA WILKINSON, INBETWEEN HER GLOBE-TROTTING. FOOD FRAGRANCE?

TRAVEL DESTINATION? Now what do I say here! Cuba for sure! TIME OF THE DAY? Oh, so fickle…can be early mornings but love my sundowners too! QUOTE?

CELEBRATION DISH?

My father left me with a quote – ‘Love many, trust a few but always paddle your own canoe!’ (It has taken me to great heights, but I assure you it is exhausting too!)

Grilled salmon – anytime.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT?

PLACE OF RELAXATION?

Too many! Perhaps when I took Rio Largo to London with Lionesses of Africa.

Freshly baked bread followed closely with fried bacon!

Take me to the mountains! No one around…music, books, red wine.

CANNOT LIVE WITHOUT?

READ?

My morning cup of tea.

Too many to mention but reading a fabulous memoir – A Princess Remembers, the memoirs of the Maharani of Jaipur. A fabulous read!

KITCHEN IMPLEMENT? Am I allowed to say Rio Largo decanter! Hehe...ok, sharp knives!

My father left me with a quote – ‘Love many, trust a few but always paddle your own canoe!’ HAUTE FAVOURITES

Set a table The ‘Love Sandwich’ lady has launched another book, one which will make you want to fill your diary to overflowing with dinner dates at home.

WIN! ONE OF TWO COPIES OF SET A TABLE See the competitions page on our website for details.

61 KAREN DUDLEY’S ‘THE KITCHEN’ AND ‘ANOTHER WEEK IN THE KITCHEN’ SOLD MORE THAN 30 000 COPIES, AND HER LATEST IS SET TO DO THE SAME. ‘Set a Table’ again demonstrates her exuberance and inimitable flair for creating wholesome, flavour-packed dishes. With a few basic tips on entertaining (for both host and guest), she moves you from mouthwatering canapes and hors d’oeuvres like salmon miso cucumber salad to mains and accompaniments (her Japanese tomato salada is a must) to the most delectable desserts like lemon ice cream with salted-caramel popcorn. Her repertoire of ingredients has expanded with lots of Asian influences, and her recipes remain unintimidating. Photography by Claire Gunn and styling by Roxanne Spears ensure that each page is visibly edible. CHOC POTS WITH POURING CREAM & RASPBERRIES I am an entertainer who appreciates an easy pre-prepared dessert. By the time it comes to pudding, you’re beginning to get tired and you’ve had at least two glasses of wine and can’t do too much finicky flapping. You want something simple and true (something entirely chocolatey will do!) to go with a bit of fruit to bring an end to a good meal.

This Choc Pot ticks all these boxes. The raspberries are imperative. 300 g dark chocolate (70% solid), broken into small pieces 1 tsp vanilla essence 150 ml boiling water 300 ml whipping cream, 160 ml for the pots, the rest for serving a punnet of raspberries for serving 1 Melt the chocolate in a microwave or heatproof bowl over a pan of barely simmering water, making sure the bowl does not touch the water. Take the melted chocolate off the heat and add the vanilla essence. 2 Very slowly add the hot water (you can use water from the bain marie) to the chocolate and vanilla. It is essential that this is done slowly while constantly stirring so that the chocolate does not split. 3 Add whipping cream to the chocolate – the texture will appear a little custardy, like crème anglaise. Pour straight into espresso cups or glasses and leave to cool in the fridge for at least an hour before serving. 4 Put the remaining cream in a pretty jug so that each guest can pour a little cream over their raspberry-topped Choc Pots. SERVES 6–8 WINE: CHAMPAGNE LANSON DEMI SEC IVORY LABEL NV – R595

‘Set a Table’ demonstrates her exuberance and inimitable flair for creating wholesome, flavour-packed dishes. HAUTE READS

HAUTE READS

63 OYSTERS WITH TOM YUM ORANGE ICE Oysters are a great way to start a dinner. They’re ready to go without too much fuss, a real spoil; fresh and indulgent. Like some of life’s other dangerously good things, there are some who won’t touch them and others who don’t know when to stop! This recipe was inspired by the most memorable oysters I have recently eaten: on the terrace of David Higgs’s (astonishingly glamourous) Marble restaurant after being a guest judge on a My Kitchen Rules SA competition. All the Johannesburg cool set were there, and what a world! Johannesburg is a truly African city, all edgy urban sophistication… and there on the terrace, this Cape Town chef, unaccustomed to the glam life, sipping extravagant cocktails among them and shlurping this crazy good shellfish. David Higgs, by the way, is the real deal and one of the most genuine, humble and generous humans. Forgive me, David, for this possibly sacrilegious take on your fine oysters! 1 cup fish stock ½ cup water 1 lime leaf 1 lemongrass, outer leaves removed, and tender white part very finely chopped 2 ½ tbsp Tom Yum paste 1 tsp lime juice 1 tsp fish sauce zest of ½ orange, juice of whole orange 20 shucked oysters

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Put the fish stock, water, lime leaf, lemongrass and Tom Yum paste into a saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring. Allow the soup to simmer gently for 3–4 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the lime juice, fish sauce, orange zest and juice. Pour into a freezer-friendly shallow container that will make it easy to scrape the ice later. As icicles form, stir them up a little with a fork to make the granita more manageable later. To serve, place the oysters on a bed of the crushed ice. Flake the ice with a fork, spoon onto the oysters and serve immediately. SERVES 6–8 WINE: ALBARINO 2018 FROM NEWTON JOHNSON (SA) – R185

Jacana Media, R380 ISBN 978-1-4314-2757-4 Hardcover, 255x135mm, 224pp

HAUTE READS

Watch out for the winter edition of the Gourmet Guide, bursting with seasonal recipes and bucket-list travel destinations. To expose your brand to our haute audience contact us on rsvp@jhpr.co.za www.gourmetguide.co.za

Terms and conditions for competitions All competitions featured in this issue will run until 31 May 2019. Winners will be selected at random and will be contacted by 7 June 2019. Gourmet Guide magazine reserves the right to publish names of the winners. Competitions are open to SA residents only. Prizes are not transferable or exchangeable and cannot be redeemed for cash. Employees and contractors to Jenny Handley Performance Management cc, and their immediate family members, are not eligible to enter. Jenny Handley Performance Management cc cannot be held responsible for any errors, omissions and/or technical failures throughout this promotion.