Na Pali Coast Magazine, Issue 7 (2022/2023)

NĀ PALI COAST Issue 7, 2022 / 2023

MAGAZINE

Volcanic

KAUA’I

Living on the

Nā Pali

Sea Cave

Explorer Living on the

Nā Pali m o .c liriders

@napa

Touring the

Nā Pali Coast

Sea Turtles in

Kaua’i Waters Taking Flight Over the Nā Pali:

Seabirds

MAGAZINE OF

NĀ PALI RIDERS

www.napaliriders.com | (808) 742-6331

NA PALI COAST MAGAZINE Issue 7, 2022/2023

Volcanic Kaua’i Living on the Nā Pali Kaua’i Maps Touring Nā Pali Coast Sea Cave Explorer Sea Turtles in Kaua’i Waters Taking Flight: Seabirds

4 12 16 24 34 46 50

Page 4

Page 12 Page 34

N a P a l i C o a s t M a g a z i n e i s i n s p i r at i o n a l . a s o u v e n i r p u b l i c at i o n f o r r e a d e r s t o h a v e a s a keepsake from their visit to

A

p u b l i c at i o n

All

2

from

K a u a’ i .

N a Pa l i R i d e r s .

photos and content by

Nā Pali Coast Magazine | 2022 / 2023

N a Pa l i R i d e r s .

www.napaliriders.com | @napaliriders

3

VOLCANIC KAUA’I RUMBLE. RUMBLE.

B y A n i Tu r n e r

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Nā Pali Coast Magazine | 2022 / 2023

T h e s t e e p, p l u n g i n g c l i f f s o f N ā P a l i C o a s t s ta n d a s a t r u e t e s ta m e n t t o K a u a i ’ s g r e at, v o l c a n i c pa s t. Th e s e a r e t h e r e m n a n t s o f t h e N ā pa l i f o r m at i o n . t h e e r o d e d c l i f f s o f y e s t e r y e a r , a n d t h e m o s t s p e c ta c u l a r d i s p l ay of geography in the world.

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VOLCANIC KAUA’I RED DIRT. There is great significance to the deep, orange hues that brightly paint the landscape throughout Kaua’i.

Once active volcanoes, the islands in Hawai’i are primarily composed of basalt rock originating from hardened lava flows. The basalt rock is very rich in iron minerals. With extreme weathering over millions of years, the iron has oxidized, or rusted, resulting in the red-colored dirt found everywhere in the islands. Red dirt is soil of a clayey consistency, and is actually quite infertile.

K auai’s

r i c h v o l c a n i c h i s t o r y i s t h e r e a s o n f o r t h e d e e p,

o r a n g e h u e s t h at b r i g h t ly pa i n t t h e h i l l s a n d v a l l e y s across the island.

Th e

burnt or ange color of this eroded

cliff is c aused by the high content of iron oxide in the soil.

K aua’i

h a s e x p e r i e n c e d i n t e n s e w e at h e r i n g o v e r

m i l l i o n s o f y e a r s , a n d t h e r e d c l ay s o i l i s a d i r e c t r e s u lt o f a n e x t r e m e ly w e t a n d w i n d y c l i m at e .

The Hawaiian Island archipelago consists of 132 islands, atolls, reefs, shallow banks, shoals, and seamounts, and spans a total length of sixteen-hundred miles. The continuous northwestward movement of the Pacific Tectonic Plate across the fixed Hawaiian Magmatic Hot Spot is responsible for the formation of the entire Hawaiian Island chain. Incredibly, islands have been forming from this fixed hot spot for over 80 million years.

Kaua’i is the northernmost island of the eight, main Hawaiian islands, but the entire island chain extends much further: from The Big Island of Hawai’i in the west, to Midway and Kure in the east. Initially, Kaua’i was located where the Big Island of Hawai’i is today. As you move from west to east, the islands become younger. For example, the Big Island of Hawai’i is the youngest island in the Hawaiian Island chain, and is still quite volcanically active. To the southeast of it lies Lo’ihi Seamount, Hawai’i’s newest submarine volcano which is completely underwater at this time. Lo’ihi could become Hawaii’s newest island when it breaks the surface of the ocean some day.

Kaua’i is the oldest of the main Hawaiian Islands, but just exactly how old is Kaua’i? Geologists have concluded that the island is at least 5.1 million years old, with chemical testing indicating that Kaua’i contains rocks between 5.6 to 3.8 million years old.

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There has been some argument over whether Kaua’i formed from a single, major volcano or more than just one. A 2010 study from the University of Hawai’i revealed that there were actually two major shield volcanoes responsible for the island’s formation, one on Kaua’i and one in the region between Kaua’i and Ni’ihau.

Ni’ihau is the island located west of Kaua’i and is therefore the remnant of the first volcano.

VOLCANIC KAUA’I

Once dome-shaped, Kaua’i’s physical appearance has gone through many phases over the past 5 million years. First arising from a submarine volcano (e.g. an undersea volcanic eruption), the island formed when the eruption finally broke the surface of the ocean as a central shield volcano, followed by landslides, shield collapse, and a series of more volcanic eruptions.

Th e

northwestern portion of the

N ā Pa l i C o a s t

boasts a

s p e c ta c u l a r d i s p l ay o f a n a d va n c e d s tat e o f e r o s i o n c a u s e d b y e x t r e m e w e at h e r i n g o v e r m i l l i o n s o f y e a r s .

Here,

r i d g e s hav e

e r o d e d s o s e v e r e ly t h at t h e y s ta n d n e a r ly u p r i g h t a n d f o r m c u r ta i n - l i k e v e r t i c a l f o l d s r a r e ly s e e n e l s e w h e r e i n t h e w o r l d .

There continues to be a constant state of erosion occurring on Kaua’i, and this will eventually lead to the shrinking of the island back into the ocean. Scientists predict this may happen in 2-3 million years.

Kaua’i is fourth in size among the main Hawaiian Islands at 555 square miles of land— it’s 33 miles long and 25 miles wide. Its highest point is near the center of the island at Kawaikini Peak at 5,170 feet. Second highest is Mt. Wai’ale’ale at 5,148 feet. Mt. Wai’ale’ale is literally the wettest spot on earth, with some portions of the summit recorded as receiving 600 inches of rain per year.

All of this water feeds the island’s vegetation on a consistent basis, creating waterfalls, streams, verdant valleys and spectacular green and orange cliffs that have given Kaua’i its nickname of “The Garden Isle.”

The Nā Pali Coast of Kaua’i is an example of a shoreline that has been severely eroded by wave action. In the winter months, it is customary for the north and northeast-facing shores to receive surf with heights of up to 40 feet. This wave action is further intensified when combined with Hawaiian trade winds and rains, which cut through the porous rocks like knives. Spectacular sea arches and sea caves have formed in the cliffs as a result of the relentless, pounding surf.

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Nā Pali Coast Magazine | 2022 / 2023

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VOLCANIC KAUA’I

Th e

N ā Pa l i C o a s t

sea cliffs along

p r o v i d e a n o p p o r t u n i t y t o s e e w h at h a p p e n s i n t e r n a l ly w h e n a v o l c a n i c cone erupts.

Th e

p r e s s u r e f r o m h o t,

liquid magma forms crack s in the e xis t i n g har d en ed, l ava b eds .

Th i s

hot

l ava t h en flows i n to t h e cr ack s , an d c o o l s s l o w ly o v e r t i m e . l ava d i k e s ar e t h e volc anic ro ck .”

One

Th e

r e s u lt i n g

“veins

of the

could map out

the dikes’ direc tions, to determine r o u g h ly w h e r e t h e c e n t e r o f t h e o r i g i n a l v o l c a n i c c o n e wa s l o c at e d .

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W

By Chris Tu r n e r

hen looking at the sharp, sheer cliffs and rugged terrain of the Nā Pali Coast, it seems like an impossible place for people to have lived. Yet, when the first Polynesian settlers sailed to Hawai’i in A.D. 850, they were quite enchanted by the pleasant, Hawaiian climate and plentiful amounts of natural resources.

Wasting no time, they adapted to the Island’s challenges and set up camp.

Utilizing double-hulled voyaging canoes, the settlers brought everything they would need to successfully inhabit the Island. Among these items were coconuts for planting trees, taro (kalo) root, sugarcane, wild ginger, banana plants, ti plants, breadfruit, and yams. They also brought livestock such as pigs, chickens, and even dogs.

The fringing reefs of Kaua’i, built up over time by the year-round, warm temperature of the sea water, created the perfect setting for a variety of edible marine life to inhabit. This was excellent for the women and children to obtain seafood from, and created a highly, nutritious diet for their families.

One notable fishing site was Nā Pali’s Nu’alolo Kai reef, which juts out into the sea, forming a natural jetty that protects the inner bay from the strong, northeast trade winds which bring crashing waves to this area year-round. Nu’alolo Kai’s reef teemed with fish and other wildlife such as sea turtles, seaweed, and edible sea shells, making life here quite sustainable for Kauai’s early inhabitants.

Despite living in an abundant paradise, life for the settlers was not entirely easy. Their daily reality was to survive against the harsh and quickly changing elements that nature presented to them.

During the winter months, the ocean and much of the shoreline was made inaccessible by the pounding giant surf which could reach heights of 40-feet at times, making it all but impossible to launch the fishing canoes.

Luckily, the settlers farmed taro, a root crop, which was relied upon as a staple in their diet.

Taro is one of the most nutritious plants on earth, and valuable since none of the plant goes to waste. The corm of the taro plant may be pounded with a pounder into a gummy food called poi and preserved (e.g.semi-fermented) for later eating.

Its leaves, when cooked, are spinach-like, vitaminrich, and quite delicious.

Kaua’i’s mountain slopes presented themselves green and lush with vegetation, which indicated that there was an abundance of fresh water available. The settlers built farming terraces with elaborate stone walls along the streams, which allowed for natural irrigation of their crops.

Materials required for housing and canoe-building were abundant for the early settlers of Kaua’i. Two to three steep, treacherous trails led to a good supply of wood in the Kōke’e forests above the south end of Kalalau Valley. Eventually, the critical demand for firewood led the valley to become deforested, except for hala trees whose leaves, or lauhala, were used for making huts, mats and clothing necessities. The area appeared rather barren except for the occasional bread fruit or coconut tree. The most sacred koa trees were also spared in order to utilize them for making canoes.

During the rainy season, floods were expect- ed and accepted as part of the lifestyle. They were respected for the fact that they brought the renewal of vegetation, but also feared for creating potential landslides or earth slumps on the high cliffs above—even long after the rains ceased.

There were always areas of dry sand which would be heated by the sun during the day. This created a place for the people to have a reprieve from the colder, wetter regions, where they could warm themselves naturally in the Hawaiian sun.

In the 1860’s, the Nā Pali Coast’s Kalalau Valley became used as a place to send persons afflicted with leprosy (aka Hansen’s Disease). Since Kalalau Valley is surrounded on three sides by steep cliffs, opening out to the sea at the front, its remoteness was therefore much appreciated by the Hawaiian government as well as the leprous people who wished to live in seclusion away from judgement.

It is estimated that by the late 1890’s, as many as thirty-five leprous persons were living in Kalalau alongside many other people who were nonleprous.

Most Hawaiians had moved out from Kalalau by the early 1900s to the safer, less remote areas of Kauai.

Ancient Hawaiians at work on Kalalau Beach.

Na Pali Coast, Kaua’i.

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N a Pa l i ’ s N u ’a l o l o K a i

reef juts out

t o t h e s e a , f o r m i n g a n at u r a l j e t t y

Depiction of the fishing village that once existed at Nu’alolo Kai. Na Pali Coast, Kaua’i.

t h at p r o t e c t s t h e i n n e r b ay f r o m t h e s t r o n g , n o r t h e a s t t r a d e w i n d s t h at b r i n g cr a sh i n g wav e s to t h e coa s t year-round.

N u ’a l o l o K a i

is teeming

with tropical fish, sea turtles, se aweed, and edible se a shell s. this reason,

N u ’a l o l o K a i

For

wa s o n ce

t h e si t e o f a flo ur ish i n g , hawai ian fishing village.

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KAUA‘I MAPS

Taro Fields in Hanalei

Hanalei Bay

Kilauea Lighthouse

Ke‘e Beach

i.

4M

Ha‘ena Beach Park

560

Ha‘ena

Wainiha Beach Lumaha‘i Park Beach

Hideaways Beach

‘Anini Beach

Ka Ha ku Rd

Princeville Hanalei Pier Hanalei Bay Rd Aku Rd 560 Hanalei Bridge eke W Hanalei

Kalihiwai Beach Anini Rd

56

Secret Beach

Rd ai iw lih Ka

l rai T au lal Ka

i.

2M

Tunnels Beach

Kalihiwai Rd

Kil au ea Rd

Ke‘e Beach

Kilauea Lighthouse

Kilauea

Kahili Beach

Pila‘a Beach

Na ‘Aina Kai Botanical Garden Wailapa Rd N. Waiakalua Rd Kuhio Highway

Ko ‘ol au

Larsen’s Beach

Rd

Moloa‘a Bay d R a‘a olo M

North Shore Roads Dirt Roads Hiking Trails Snorkel Spots

Note of Caution: The waters around Kaua‘i are known for dangerous currents, large surf, shore breaks, and sneaker waves. It is critical that you check ocean conditions and consult with a lifeguard before going out into the water.

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Nā Pali Coast Magazine | 2022 / 2023

Anahola

Anahola Beach Park Rd

Anahola

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KAUA‘I MAPS

East Side K

a lihun Mai

Rd ola h a ain

d aR n e 581 oh ‘Ol

K No uam un o‘o ou Tr ail

Noun ou M t

Kua mo‘o Rd

Trail

Ka pa‘ aB ypa ss

Trai l

Kawaihau Rd

Kamalu

l rai eT rlin we Po

Kuilau Ridge Trail

Mo alep e

50

wy li‘i H a u m Kau Puhi

Kuhio H ighway Hanama‘ulu Wilcox Hospital

51

58

Nawiliwili 18

Nā Pali Coast Magazine | 2022 / 2023

Waipouli Beach Park

Waipouli Beach

Nukoli‘i Beach

Hanama‘ulu Bay

Ahukini Rd

Lihu‘e Ri ce St

Na wi liw ili Rd

51 Ka pu le Hw y

Kuhio Hwy

50

56

Kapa‘a Beach Park

Lydgate Beach Park

56

Rd ‘alo Ma

Note of Caution: The waters around Kaua‘i are known for dangerous currents, large surf, shore breaks, and sneaker waves. It is critical that you check ocean conditions and consult with a lifeguard before going out into the water.

Kealia Beach

Wailua Falls

Wailua Bay

Wailua Falls

583

Kapa‘a

Ha lei lio R Wailua d

580

Roads Dirt Roads Hiking Trails Snorkel Spots

Kuhio Highw ay

56

Lihu‘e Airport Kalapaki Beach Nawiliwili Bay

Opaeka’a Falls

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KAUA‘I MAPS

South Shore

50

Roads Dirt Roads Hiking Trails Snorkel Spots

Ka um ual i‘i H wy Kalaheo

Hanapepe

Lawa‘i Bay

Spouting Horn

520 Koloa

Lawa ‘i Rd

‘ipu –Po loa (Ko ) oiki ass Kin Byp Ala

Hanapepe Bay Glass Beach

Tree Tunnel

Po‘ipu Rd

Salt Pond Beach Park

530

Ha lew ili Rd

‘Ele‘ele

540

Lawa‘i

Rd loa Ko

50

Na wi liw ili Rd

Maluhia Rd

Ka um ua li‘i Hw y

Lihu‘e Ri ce St

Nawiliwili

Note of Caution: The waters around Kaua‘i are known for dangerous currents, large surf, shore breaks, and sneaker waves. It is critical that you check ocean conditions and consult with a lifeguard before going out into the water.

Pakala Beach

Hwy ali‘i u m Kau Puhi

d uR p i ‘ Po

Lawa‘i Po‘ipu Beach Baby Beach Koloa Landing Shipwreck Kiahuna Beach Po‘ipu Brennecke Beach Beach Beach Park

Ha‘ula Beach Gillin’s Beach

Kawailoa Bay

Spouting Horn

Po‘ipu Beach

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Po‘ipu Beach

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KAUA‘I MAPS Koke’e State Park

Polihale State Park

Waimea Canyon

Ku ku i

Milita ry Bou ndary

550

Tr ail

Waimea Canyon Lookout

on ny a eC ai‘ o K

Ko ke‘ eR d

y Hw li‘i ua um Ka

Pacific Missile Range Facility Waterfall next to Koke‘e Road

Waim ea Ca nyon Rd

552

Wa ime aC any on T rail

Waimea Pier

West Side

550

50

Roads Dirt Roads Hiking Trails Note of Caution: The waters around Kaua‘i are known for dangerous currents, large surf, shore breaks, and sneaker waves. It is critical that you check ocean conditions and consult with a lifeguard before going out into the water.

Kek aha Rd Kekaha Beach Park

Kekaha Kikiaola Small Boat Harbor

Waimea

Lucy Wright Beach Park Pakala Beach

Waimea Canyon

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Ka um ua li‘i Hw y

50

Hanapepe ‘Ele‘ele www.napaliriders.com | @napaliriders

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T ou r i ng

Nā Pali Coast 3

2

1

Kē’ē 1 Beach

6

3

Hanakoa valley

M i.

5

Kalalau Beach

Page 28 Open-ceiling Cave

Kalalau Valley Honopū Beach 8

9

Nu‘alolo Kai

5

Miloli‘i Beach

11

Ka lal au 2M

i.

Va lle y

Tr ail

9

8

Awa‘awapuhi Valley

Nu‘alolo ‘Āinā Valley

M 2 .1

Mākaha Valley

6

12

Trail lo Cliff Nu’alo

Mākaha Point

Page 28

13

7

lei

Hanakāpī ‘ai Falls

5

Page 27

to Hana

i.

Pōhakuao Falls & Sea Arch

4

3a

3a

2M

Waiwaipuhi Sea Cave Waiahuakua Valley 4 Double-Door Sea Cave

Page 27

Page 26

560

l rai Hanakāpī‘ai T au Beach lal a 2 K i.

2M

il i Falls Tra Hanakapia

Page 26

Ho ‘olulu Cove

Hā’ena State Park

Mil oli‘i Rid ge T rail 3.8 M

i.

Kalalau Aw 10 Lookout a ‘a wap uhi Tra 3.1 il Mi

Nu ’alo lo T rail 3.

.

8M i.

11

10

Mākole

Page 29

Roads Dirt Roads Hiking Trails Snorkel Spots

7

m ea

n nyo Dr.

W ai

Ca

to

13

12 ea

Nā Pali Coast Magazine | 2022 / 2023

Polihale State Park

Note of Caution: The waters around Kaua‘i are known for dangerous currents, large surf, shore breaks, and sneaker waves. It is critical that you check ocean conditions and consult with a lifeguard before going out into the water.

Page 32

Page 32

550

im Wa

Page 29 24

K ok e

’e

Rd .

i.

Koke‘e State Park

Page 31

Page 30

Hanakoa Lookout

Page 33

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Touring Nā Pali Coast

1

K

Ke’e Beach

ē’ē Beach is located at the end of the north shore’s road (Hwy. 560) on Kaua’i. It is also known as the gateway to the Nā Pali Coast by way of the Hanakāpī’ai Trail and Kalalau Trail.

2

T

Hanakāpī’ai

he Hanakāpī’ai Trail is a 2-mile hike from Kē’ē Beach, and takes you to Hanakāpī’ai Beach, a sandy beach surrounded by a heavenly rainforest-like valley. Hiking further into the valley, one will discover an amazing waterfall. Beware of the tempting ocean here—the Nā Pali Coast ocean currents are an invisible killer at this location, taking many peoples’ lives through the years—when in doubt DO NOT go out.

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Nā Pali Coast Magazine | 2022 / 2023

3

Ho’olulu Cove

H

o’olulu means “protected bay or waters.” The cove was once an area where ancient Hawaiian canoers took refuge. There are three sea caves at Ho’olulu.

3a

Waiwaipuhi Sea Cave

W

aiwaipuhi Sea Cave means “great blowhole,” and was named this because the cave literally turns into a giant, spewing blowhole in the winter months when the pounding surf crashes against it. Boat captains have nicknamed it Pirate’s Cave. This cave has a large entrance, and is 951 feet in length.

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Touring Nā Pali Coast

4

Waiahuakua Valley Double-door Cave

A

t 1,155 feet in length, the Waiahuakua Sea Cave is second on the list in rank for the world’s longest sea caves. This dark and spooky sea cave has a separate entrance and exit, and is nicknamed the Double- door Sea Cave. Inside the cave’s corridor, a lively waterfall gushes down through a hole in the ceiling. This is, handsdown, the most thrilling sea cave to explore on the Nā Pali Coast.

5

Hanakoa Valley

H

anakoa Valley is often used as a halfway point camping station for those hiking the Kalalau Trail. A large portion of the Bali Hai Ridge is here. The back of the valley is surrounded by 2,000 ft. high cliffs, with a waterfall cascading down the middle of the ridge.

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Nā Pali Coast Magazine | 2022 / 2023

6

Pōhakuao Falls & Sea Arch

T

he Nā Pali Coast Sea Arch is highlighted by Pōhakuao Falls in the background. When sea conditions are extremely calm, smaller vessels (e.g. rafts and kayaks) may travel right through the arch. Upon exiting, you will be treated to a panoramic view of the entire Nā Pali Coast.

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T

Kalalau

he 11-mile Kalalau Trail comes to an official end at Kalalau Beach. Depending on the season, Kalalau Beach may be a narrow strip of sand, or a long, expansive, sandy beach. Hikers must obtain a permit to camp overnight here. The spell-binding Kalalau Valley forms the backdrop to the beach, and is famous for the dramatic peaks and pinnacles which shape the interior walls of the valley. www.napaliriders.com | @napaliriders

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Touring Nā Pali Coast

8

Honopū Beach

F

or Hollywood (aka “Nā Pali-wood”), Honopū Beach is a favorite movie filming location. Six Days Seven Nights, King Kong, and Pirates of the Caribbean are just a few productions that easily come to mind.

Honopū Beach made its most famous Hollywood debut in Goldfinger, when James Bond is seen riding in a red helicopter, being chased under and through Honopū’s natural seaside archway.

Honopū is also known as “The Valley of the Lost Tribe.” This name refers to ancient times when this now silent, brooding valley was believed to be the setting for a group of mythical Mū people, who later vanished for no apparent reason. It is also believed that the upper valley was inhabitated by ~300 Hawaiians. They would have been shielded from invaders by the 3,000-foot high, sheer cliffs that line the back of the valley.

Visitors have reported feeling a very uncomfortable, eery presence at Honopū, and it is believed that ancient spirits still wander forlornly through the valley.

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Open-ceiling Cave

T

he Open-ceiling Cave, also known as Queen’s Bath, is actually a hollowed-out lava tube (e.g. the ceiling has crashed into the sea floor below). When you are inside of the cave, you can literally look upwards to view the sky above. In the summer season, the mid-morning sunlight streams through the cave’s dark entrance, penetrating the crystal-clear waters and reflecting off of the white, sandy bottom. The result is a boldly blended color palette of electrifying blues and greens—it’s truly spellbinding.

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Touring Nā Pali Coast

Awa‘awapuhi is the narrow-

est and deepest of Nā Pali’s 10

Awa’awapuhi Valley

12

A

wa‘awapuhi Valley is the narrowest and deepest of Nā Pali’s remote, isolated valleys. Legends say that the name refers to the valley’s sinuous curves and twists, which wind between 3,000-foot walls, like a slithering eel, or puhi. Another legend claims that the valley is named for the wild ginger, or ‘awapuhi, that grows there. Nowadays, this valley of the wild ginger appears far less lush than it was in ancient times, since the irrigated terraces for cultivating taro plants have long since fallen away. There can still be seen a multitude of half-washed away rock dams that at one time went completely through the stream to create perfect terraces for growing taro. On its western side, at the point overlooking the ocean, is a rock wall temple platform, or heiau, once used for worship.

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32

Nu‘alolo ‘Āinā Valley

Nā Pali Coast Magazine | 2022 / 2023

For a depiction of how ancient peoples may have

N

u‘alolo ‘Āinā is impressive due to the visible remains of terraces, used for growing taro. Taro, or kalo, grows in watery paddy fields and upland rainy areas, and is considered a perfect food plant all around. Its heart-shaped green leaves have a delicious, spinach flavor, while its starchy tuber is similar in consistency to a potato. Hawaiians resided in this valley for hundreds of years, well into the early 20th century. Adjacent to it, and once connected by a primitive ladder over the separating cliff, is the Nu’alolo Kai Beach and Valley, which also contains multiple, elaborate lava rock terraces visible from the ocean.

lived at Nu’alolo Kai, see pages 12-15.

Nu’alolo Kai

N

u‘alolo Kai Beach was the portal to the sea for the people living in Nu’alolo ‘Āinā Valley. A premier, fishing village once flourished here, though only traces of it now remain. While plantings behind the beach provided some food and medicine for the people, it was the protected reef that was most prized for its supply of multicolored fish, seaweeds, and shellfish, such as ‘opihi limpets and pipipi snails. Outrigger canoes most likely lined the beach, ready for offshore fishing when schools of oceanic fishes like aku, akule and ‘ōmilu came near.

13

Miloli’i Beach

Green sea turtles bask in the sun at low tide.

M

iloli‘i Beach is a wide, expansive beach and a favorite camping and resting spot for kayakers during the spring and summer months, when the Nā Pali Coast becomes calm enough for day excursions. Unlike Kalalau Beach, there is no connecting hiking trail into Miloli‘i. It is accessible only by small boat or kayak. The narrow channel through the reef is especially tricky to navigate when the tradewinds are blowing strongly.

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Open-ceiling Cave

Explore

t h e m any se a c av e s o n t h e

N ā Pa l i C o a s t

of

K aua’i .

A

lso known as Queen’s Bath, the Open-ceiling Cave is the world’s most impressive example of a littoral sink. Here, the ceiling has collapsed entirely into the sea floor below, creating a cylindrical chamber that measures ~150-feet in diameter. A narrow, seaward entrance allows small boats and kayaks to enter the cave and perform a circular route around the interior rock island. The depth inside the cave is 65-feet.

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35

Honopu Cave

Explore

t h e m any se a c av e s o n t h e

N ā Pa l i C o a s t

of

K aua’i .

H

onopu Sea Cave has its own unique features and views.

As you enter, glance back at the waterfall which is framed in by the cave’s entrance. Look for schools of small fish hiding in the shadows and possibly a white-tip reef shark looking to make a meal out of those fish. See nesting seabirds in the crevices of the walls. As you get deeper into the cave, the walls of the cave edges stand out even more.

The grayish-black lava rock contrasts with the pinkish-red coral growing at the surf line.

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Honopu Sea Arch

Explore

t h e m any se a c av e s o n t h e

N ā Pa l i C o a s t

of

K aua’i .

H

onopu Sea Arch is a popular Hollywood movie setting. Many movies have been made at this location, including Pirates of the Caribbean, King Kong, and Goldfinger with the dramatic helicopter scene of James Bond flying right through the arch. There is an air of mystery here, for the backdrop of Honopu Valley has been nick-named “Valley of the Lost Tribe.” Its ominous walls tower over 3,000-feet high. Many stories are told of this valley as being haunted by ancient warrior spirits of long ago.

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Na Pali Sea Arch

Explore

t h e m any se a c av e s o n t h e

N ā Pa l i C o a s t

of

K aua’i .

N

ā Pali Sea Arch is around the corner from Hanakoa Valley. On rare occasions when the sea conditions are calm, the experience of rafting through the Sea Arch may be realized. Upon exiting, the view looking west is truly a “post card moment” capturing a panoramic view down the Nā Pali coastline with waterfalls plunging into the sea from rugged sea cliffs above, and the expansive Pacific Ocean all around.

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Waiahuakua Sea Cave

Explore

t h e m any se a c av e s o n t h e

N ā Pa l i C o a s t

of

K aua’i .

T

he Waiahuakua Sea Cave is 1,155- feet long, making it the largest of the Nā Pali sea caves, and the second longest sea cave in the United States. Waiahuakua Sea Cave means “sacred water” but is known to most as the Double Door Cave because it has a separate entrance and exit. ~200- feet into the cave, a littoral sink allows a perennial waterfall to gush down the cave’s western wall. When the afternoon summer light shines through the hole, a glowing spotlight appears in the water below.

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43

Waiwaipuhi Sea Cave

Explore

t h e m any se a c av e s o n t h e

N ā Pa l i C o a s t

of

K aua’i .

W

aiwaipuhi Sea Cave is nick-named the Pirates Cave, but literally translates to “great blowhole,” because in the winter months, the crashing surf turns the cave into a powerful blowhole that spews water straight back out to sea.

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45

H

onu, the traditional Hawaiian name for the green turtle (Chelonia mydas), is one of Hawaii’s most beloved creatures. These days, spotting a honu swimming in nearshore waters is a common sighting. However, this was not the case several decades ago when the species was hunted to the brink of extinction by the commercial fishing industry.

Around the globe, honu is prized for the delicate flavor of its greenish-colored meat. Many cultures are still serving up turtle soup as a popular menu item. Not to long ago, Hawai’i also boasted an appetite for the honu. This practice began in ancient Hawaiian times, when eating honu was saved only for the kings, or ali’i , to consume on very special occasions.

Over time, Hawai’i became a melting pot of many races, and honu was served at restaurants and lū’aus (feasts), contributing to a widespread consumer demand for turtle meat and eggs. This, in turn, was a disaster for the honu population in Hawai’i.

But things are looking much brighter these days, thanks to the enforcement of state and federal laws that make it illegal to harass, harm, or harvest honu. And although the honu population has experienced a notable recovery in Hawai’i, threats still remain. There is a mysterious, fibropapilloma (tumor) disease affecting the viability of the population. Other threats are shark predation, loss of habitat, entanglement in commercial fishing gear, and harm from the accidental ingestion of marine debris.

We humans are undoubtedly the largest threat to our precious honu friends.

The honu have been around since the age of the dinosaurs. They are the true ancients of Hawai’i. They are to be guarded and respected, as their future is uncertain. So remember, when you spot our friend the honu swimming or basking on the beach, admire this gentle creature from afar.

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Nā Pali Coast Magazine | 2022 / 2023

I N K A U A‘ I WAT E R S Th e

h o n u hav e b een ar o un d

since the age of the dinosaurs.

Th e y

are the true ancients of

H a w a i ’ i . Th e y

are to be guarded

and respec ted.

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Green

sea turtles can be seen basking in the sun

at l o w t i d e .

Th e y

d o t h i s t o e s c a p e p r e d at i o n

from tiger sharks and perhaps to raise their b o dy t e m p e r at u r e .

Th e y

feed on marine algae and

s e a g r a s s e s i n s h a l l o w wat e r s .

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Nā Pali Coast Magazine | 2022 / 2023

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49

FlighT ta k i n g

Th e

seabirds of

Hawai ’i

h av e a lway s

b e e n c u lt u r a l ly s i g n i f i c a n t t o t h e n at i v e

Hawai ians,

as they were

d e p e n d e d o n f o r n av i g at i o n , f i s h i n g , a n d f e at h e r w o r k .

o v e r t h e n āp a l i

Th e R e d - F o o t e d B o o b y, on the

or

N ā Pa l i C o a s t. I t ’ s

‘ā ,

i s f r e q u e n t ly s e e n

best recognized by

its red feet and distinc tive, pink base on a blue beak.

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51

FlighT ta k i n g

o v e r t h e n āp a l i

Th e B l a c k - f o o t e d A l b at r o s s w i l l l ay a s i n g l e e g g d u r i n g t h e

Th e

largest of the seabirds on

A l b at r o s s ,

w i n g s pa n o f

6

to

8

or

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Nā Pali Coast Magazine | 2022 / 2023

t h r e at e n e d i n t h e

Stat e

are listed as of

Hawai ’i .

K a’u p u. I t

B l ackboasts a

f e e t.

S

eabirds have always been a culturally significant part of the Hawaiian heritage, as they were depended on for navigation, fishing, and featherwork by the native Hawaiians. Luckily, Kaua’i is a breeding habitat for several species of seabirds which benefit from the abundance of food found in our productive, rich waters. With its overhanging cliffs and caves, the Nā Pali Coast, and surrounding Pacific Ocean represent a perfect environment for seabirds to thrive in. By traveling along the Nā Pali Coast, we are able to get a glimpse into the peaceful lives of these free flyers.

Th e y

K aua’i ,

b u t s m a l l e s t i n i t s fa m i ly, i s t h e footed

breeding season.

It

i s s a i d t h at w h e n

Te r n s

Noddy

f ly t o w a r d s t h e

s h o r e , a s t o r m i s i m m i n e n t.

f ly i n g a l o n g w i t h s c h o o l s o f l a r g e f i s h , s e a b i r d s ’ f l i g h t pat t e r n s a n d h u n t i n g r o u t i n e s s e r v e a s a s i g n a l t o f i s h e r m e n .

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FlighT ta k i n g

Th e s e B l a c k N o d d i e s

nest in the

seclu d ed c av e s an d sh eer cli ffs .

N ā Pa l i C o a s t ’ s Th e y

are unique

i n t h at t h e y a r e e n d e m i c , c o a s ta l b i r d s w h i c h reside in

Hawai ’i

year-round.

Other

seabirds

r e t u r n t o t h e i s l a n d s o n ly f o r n e s t i n g p u r p o s e s .

o v e r t h e n āp a l i

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W i n t e r A t t r a c t i o n s T he breach. Hawaiian Humpback Whales can b e sp ot te d in K aua’i water s during the months of D e c .-Apr.

Whale watching from a Zodiac raft

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H a w a i i a n

d o l p h i n s

T he spin. Hawaiian Spinner D olphins are b es t k nown for their energetic, acrobatic displays in the wild.

Dolphin watching from a Zodiac raft

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