Na Pali Coast Magazine, Issue 2 (2015/2016)

NA PALI COAST Issue 1, Jan. 2015-Jan. 2016 Collector’s Edition

Issue 2, 2015/2016

Magazine

Breathtaking Photo Imagery of Kaua’i

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NA PALI COAST GUIDE p. 28 SEA CAVE REVIEW p.44 KAUA’I MAPS p.20 VOLCANIC KAUA’I p.4 LIVING ON NA PALI p.14

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In this Issue... a publication from

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VOLCANIC KAUA’I

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LIVING ON THE NA PALI

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SEA CAVE REVIEW

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volcanic kaua’i Rumble. rumble.

Story by Ani Turner Photos by Na Pali Riders Raft Tours

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The steep, plunging cliffs of Na Pali Coast stand as a true testament to Kauai’s great, volcanic past. These are the remnants of the Napali formation, the eroded cliffs of yesteryear. It is the most spectacular visual display of geography on the island, and perhaps in the world.

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Volcanic kaua’i RED DIRT. This aspect of Kaua’i cannot be ignored by any means.

Red dirt is the stuff that stains your white sneakers, gets all over your car, your house—it’s everywhere.

Kauai’s rich volcanic history is the reason for the deep, orange hues that brightly paint the hills and valleys across the island. Once an active volcano, Kaua’i is an island comprised of basalt rock containing high amounts of iron minerals. With extreme weathering, the iron has oxidized, or rusted, producing the red color in the dirt that we see today.

Red dirt is soil of a clayey consistency, and is quite infertile.

Kauai’s rich volcanic history is the reason for the deep, orange hues that brightly paint the hills and valleys across the island. The burnt orange color of this eroded cliff is caused by the high content of iron oxide in the soil. Kaua’i has experienced intense weathering over millions of years, and the red clay soil is a direct result of an extremely wet and windy climate.

Kaua’i is the northernmost island of the eight main Hawaiian islands, but the entire island chain extends much further from The Big Island of Hawai’i in the west, to Midway and Kure in the east, spanning a total length of sixteen-hundred miles. It is the continuous northwestward movement of the Pacific Tectonic Plate across the fixed Hawaiian Magmatic Hot Spot that is responsible for the formation of the entire Hawaiian Island chain. In total, islands have been forming from this fixed hot spot for over 80 million years. In fact, the Hawaiian Island archipelago consists of 132 islands, atolls, reefs, shallow banks, shoals, and seamounts and spans a total length of sixteen-hundred miles.

Initially, Kaua’i was located where the Big Island of Hawai’i is today. As you move from west to east, the islands become younger. For example, the Big Island of Hawai’i is still quite active, and to the southeast of it lies Lo’ihi Seamount, Hawai’i’s newest submarine volcano. Lo’ihi could become Hawaii’s newest island when it breaks the surface of the ocean some day.

Hikers pause for a break on the Kalalau Trail. Incredibly beautiful scenery on one of the most challenging hikes in the world, Kalalau Trail draws hundreds of visitors each year.

Kaua’i is the oldest of the main Hawaiian Islands, but just exactly how old is Kaua’i? Geologists have concluded that the island is at least 5.1 million years old. Chemical testing performed by geologists indicates that Kaua’i contains rocks between 5.6 to 3.8 million years old. There has been some argument over whether Kaua’i formed from a single, major volcano or more than just one, and in 2010 a (Continued on next page)

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Volcanic kaua’i

The northwestern portion of the Na Pali Coast boasts a spectacular display of an advanced state of erosion caused by extreme weathering over millions of years. Here, ridges have eroded so severely that they stand nearly upright and form curtain-like vertical folds rarely seen elsewhere in the world.

study from the University of Hawai’i revealed that there were actually two major shield volcanoes responsible for the island’s formation, one on Kaua’i and one in the region between Kaua’i and Ni’ihau.

Ni’ihau is the island located west of Kaua’i, and is therefore the remnant of the first major volcano.

Kauai is fourth in size among the Islands at 555 square miles of land, and is 33 miles long and 25 miles wide. Its highest point is near the center of the island at Kawaikini Peak at 5,170 feet. Second highest is Mt. Wai’ale’ale at 5,148 feet. Mt. Wai’ale’ale is the center of a large volcanic mountain from which from lava flowed down on all sides, and is the largest shield volcano in the Hawaiian Islands.

It is also the wettest spot on earth, with some portions of the summit recorded as receiving 600 inches of rain per year. All of this water feeds the island’s vegetation on a consistent basis, creating waterfalls, streams, verdant valleys and spectacular green and orange cliffs that have given Kaua’i its nickname of “The Garden Isle.”

There are many phases that Kaua’i has gone through over the past 5 million years. First arising from a submarine volcano (e.g. an undersea volcanic eruption), the island formed when the eruption finally broke the surface of the ocean as a central shield volcano, followed by landslides, shield collapse, erosion, and a series of more volcanic eruptions. There continues to be a constant state of erosion occurring on Kaua’i, and this will eventually lead to the shrinking of the island back into the ocean. Scientists predict this may happen in 2-3 million years.

When you visit the Na Pali Coast of Kaua’i, you are seeing the Napali formation, the eroded cliffs of yesteryear. It is the most spectacular visual display of geography on the island, and perhaps in the world. Here, the cliffs exceed 4,000 feet above sea level. The northwestern portion of the Na Pali Coast boasts a spectacular display of an advanced state of erosion caused by extreme weathering over millions of years. Here, ridges have eroded so severely that they stand nearly upright and form curtain-like vertical folds rarely seen elsewhere in the world.

The Na Pali Coast of Kaua’i is an example of a shoreline that has been severly eroded by wave action. In the winter months, north and northeastfacing shores receive surf with heights of up to 40feet. This wave action is further intensified when (Continued on next page)

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Volcanic kaua’i

combined with consistent Hawaiian trade winds and rains which cut through the porous rocks like knives. Spectacular sea arches and sea caves have formed in the cliffs as a result of the relentless pounding Hawaiian surf. Sometimes, overhanging arches crash to the ocean below, creating sea cliffs with sheer drops.

The sea cliffs along Na Pali Coast provide an opportunity to see what happens internally when a volcanic cone erupts. The pressure from hot, liquid magma forms cracks in the existing hardened, lava beds. This hot lava then flows into the cracks, and cools slowly over time. The resulting lava dikes are the “veins of the volcanic rock.” One could map out the dikes’ directions, to determine roughly where the center of the original volcanic cone was located. Dikes appear as vertical and slightly diagonal strips, and are up to several feet in width. They are easy to spot since they run perpendicular to the layers of basalt rock in the cliff.

A Note to the Reader: All of the photos in this magazine were taken from the photographers of Na Pali Riders. While the raft passed along the rugged shoreline of Na Pali Coast tour after tour, they captured thousands of photos from which a few exceptional shots were chosen for this publication. We invite you to take a raft tour with Na Pali Riders during your visit to Kaua’i. Call 808.742.6331 to reserve a tour, or visit our website at www.napaliriders.com. Mahalo!

The sea cliffs along Na Pali Coast provide an opportunity to see what happens internally when a volcanic cone erupts. The pressure from hot, liquid magma forms cracks in the existing hardened, lava beds. This hot lava then Spectacular sea arches and sea caves have formed in the cliffs as a result of the relentless pounding Hawaiian surf. Sometimes, overhanging arches crash to the ocean below, creating sea cliffs with sheer drops.

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Na Pali Coast Magazine | 2015 / 2016

flows into the cracks, and cools slowly over time. The resulting lava dikes are the “veins of the volcanic rock.”

One could map out the dikes’ directions, to determine roughly where the center of the original volcanic cone was located.

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Volcanic kaua’i

The Na Pali Coast of Kaua’i is an example of a shoreline that has been severely eroded by wave action. In the winter months, north and northeast-facing shores receive surf with heights of up to 40-feet. This wave action is further intensified when combined with consistent Hawaiian trade winds and rains.

Left to Right: Layers of basalt rock on a sea cliff, narrow and sharp ridges of eroded lava beds in Kalalau Valley, wave action has produced a sheer cliff from a fallen overhanging layer of rock.

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W

hen looking at the sharp, sheer cliffs and rugged terrain of Na Pali Coast, it seems like an impossible place for people to have lived. Yet, when the first Polynesian settlers sailed to Hawai’i between 300 A.D. and 800 A.D, they quickly fell in love with the subtropical, Hawaiian climate and plentiful amounts of natural resources. Wasting no time, they adapted to the Island and set up camp.

Arriving in double-hulled voyaging canoes, the settlers brought everything they would need to successfully inhabit the Island. They imported coconuts for trees, taro (kalo) root, banana plants, breadfruit and yams. They also brought livestock such as pigs and chickens, and even dogs.

The mountain slopes were green and lush with vegetation, indicating that there was an abundance of fresh water available. In order to farm on the rocky, rugged terrain, they built

extensive terraces with stone walls along the streams, allowing for natural irrigation of their crops. This was especially essential for taro cultivation on the valley floor.

The fringing reefs of Kaua’i, built up over time by the year-round, warm temperature of the sea water, created the perfect setting for a variety of seafood to inhabit, which the women and children could fish for and create a highly-nutritious diet for their families.

Despite living in an abundant paradise, these people’s lives were not entirely easy. There was no time to get bored, because it was all about work and survival against the harsh and quickly changing elements.

During the winter months, the ocean and much of the shoreline was made inaccessible by the pounding giant surf which could reach heights of 40-feet at times. It must often have been impossible to launch the fishing canoes out at all during this time of year.

Luckily, the settlers farmed taro which was relied upon due to its use as a staple in their diet. Taro is one of the most nutritious plants on this earth, and none of it goes to waste.

The corm of the taro plant may be pounded with a pounder into a gummy food called poi and preserved (e.g.semi-fermented) for later eating. Its leaves are spinach-like and vitaminrich, and may be steamed and eaten as well.

Of all the Hawaiian Islands, Kalalau Valley in Kauai had the most elaborate terraces for taro farming.

Two to three steep, treacherous trails led to the Kokee forests above the back or south end of Kalalau Valley. Here, wood was plentiful and much needed for housing and canoes.

Due to the crucial need to obtain firewood for cooking purposes, the valley was deforested, except for hala trees whose leaves, or lauhala, were used for making huts, mats and clothing necessities. The area appeared rather barren except for the occasional bread fruit

or coconut tree. The most sacred koa trees were also spared in order to utilize them for making canoes. Much of the wood for fuel was probably chopped and literally thrown down over the cliffs where it was harvested below.

During the rainy season, floods were expected and accepted as part of the lifestyle. They were respected for the fact that they brought the renewal of vegetation, but also feared for creating potential landslides or earth slumps on the high cliffs above—even long after the rains ceased.

There were always areas of dry sand which would be heated by the warm, Hawaiian sun.

This created a place for the people to have a reprieve from the colder, wetter regions and warm themselves naturally. Indeed, these first inhabitants of Kaua’i believed that they had found themselves the ultimate paradise with everything they could ever need to live happily and flourish. (Continued on next page)

Ancient Hawaiians at work on Kalalau Beach, Na Pali Coast, Kaua’i.

Illustration by Brad Cate Design.

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colors can positively overwhelm ordinary human emotions. A few may even be brought to tears of joy.

Getting There. The majority of visitors will do the basic—which means renting a car—then driving to the cliffedge lookout at Kokee. Here, at the Kalalau Lookout, they will view Kalalau Valley 4,000-feet below, between mystic, parting In the 1860’s, Kalalau Valley became used as a place to clouds. Most will say this is why they came to Kaua’i. The send persons afflicted with leprosy. Kalalau Valley is truth is that their punch-list for Kauai has only just begun. The surrounded on three sides by steep cliffs, and opens to punch-list for the paradise of the Na Pali Coast could take an the sea at the front portion. Its remoteness was therefore eternity to complete. much appreciated by the Hawaiian government as well Of course, a wonderful way to see Na Pali from its front is by as the leprous people who wished to live in seclusion kayak, boat, or raft. In a motorized-craft, you are taken to the away from judgement. It is estimated that by the late 1890’s, as much as thirty-five leprous persons were living remote coastline’s famous sites in leisure, with little effort.

Some visitors do wet their feet to go ashore to better know in Kalalau alongside many other people who were nonthis archaeologic area. They may explore the old rock walls still leprous. in place, see the fishing heiau where ancient Hawaiians once Most Hawaiians had moved out from Kalalau by the early prayed to one of their many gods, and the old rock foundations 1900s to the safer, less remote areas of Kauai. Today, of ancient home sites. there are still a few die-hard hippies living in the caves Those more daring may hike the treacherous Kalalau Trail and deep in Kalalau’s interior, living welfare check to welfare experience the scenery face-to-face. However, only attempt check, and eluding the site-visits of personnel from the this if you are well-educated on the terrain of the trail which is Department of Land and Natural Resources who are extremely difficult for even the most-experienced hiker. always checking for unpermitted campers.

Kalalau Today.

The Na Pali Coast’s awesome and spell-binding Kalalau Valley is today viewed and visited by no less than a half a million visitors per year. There is a magnetic attraction here—nature’s magnetic pull—the lure of a peaceful paradise-found emotion. One’s eyes are treated to views of multi-colored, lush, green, fluted cliffs, massive pinnacle-shaped lava dikes, and cascading crystal clear waterfalls complete with misty and vibrant rainbows.

The scenery looks to be out of a fantasy hobbit forest. There’s no mystery why Hollywood has created its presence here. The Na Pali Coast has been well-publicized the world over in films from Pirates of the Carribean to King Kong, from Six Days Seven Nights to Jurassic Park. Indeed, it is a very sought-after part of the world.

Na Pali’s Nu’alolo Kai reef juts out into the sea , forming a natural jetty that protects the inner bay from the strong, northeast trade winds that bring crashing waves to this area year-round.

In ancient times, the protected reef teemed with fish and other wildlife such as sea turtles, seaweed, and edible sea shells, making life at Nu’alolo Kai quite sustainable for Kauai’s early inhabitants.

Lastly, one can view the Na Pali Coast from a helicopter for a bird’s-eye view of the entire island.

The main idea here is to visit this awe-inspiring site first-hand, because the photos are just a glimpse of what you will see and feel when you are on the Na Pali Coast. It is a place rich in history and without a doubt, a highly spiritual and sacred place.

The “X” marks the spot. Do you see the crossing of two lava dikes in the sea cliff at Nu’alolo Kai? Directly below that mark is the area where a Hawaiian fishing village once stood, with a population of ~100 people. The following page captures a day in the life of the ancient inhabitants of this sacred area.

From any angle of view, there is magic in beholding Kalalau Valley, be it from the north, west, south, or east. The valley imparts various feelings due to the constantly changing colors. Shadows from trade wind blown clouds above change the hues like by a light switch.

Seaward, the ocean’s electric-blue waters magically glow and change also according to the rapidly moving clouds above.

Between the clouds, the sunbeams are manipulated, dancing upon hikers on the cliffs above, then down through the crystal clear oceans below onto the white sand bottoms.

Depiction of a fishing village that once existed at Nu’alolo Kai on the Na Pali Coast.

Illustration by Brad Cate Design.

From a boater’s or kayaker’s view, these heavenly watercolors are what they came for. And for those viewing from above, like the breath taking birds-eye view from a helicopter, the

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Map of Kaua’i Island

10 Must Things to Do in Kaua’i 1

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2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

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Na Pali Coast Magazine | 2015 / 2016

The cartograph above is provided by Lahaina Printsellers.

Visit their web site for other exceptional art having to do with Hawai‘i. www.printsellers.com

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Exploring Kaua’i

Taro Fields in Hanalei

Peaceful Hanalei Bay

K lauea Lighthouse

K

Hanalei Pier Hanalei Bay

Princeville

Hanalei Rd Aku Rd 560 Bridge e k e W

i.

4M

Hanalei

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Kalihiwai Beach

Kalihiwai Rd

Beach

K auea Wailapa Rd

Pila‘a Beach Na ‘ ina Kai Botanical Garden N. Waiakalua Rd

Larsen’s Beach

Kuhio Highway

Ko ‘ol au

North Shore Roads Dirt Roads Hiking Trails Snorkel Spots Surf Spots

Note of Caution: The waters around Kaua‘i are known for dangerous currents, large surf, shore breaks, and sneaky waves. It is critical that you check ocean conditions and consult with a lifeguard before going into the water.

Lifeguarded Beaches: Anahola Beach, Haena Beach, Hanalei Pavilion, Ke’e Beach, Waioli Beach Pine Trees

Moloa‘a Bay

Rd

Rd

Beach Park

Lumaha‘i Beach

Anini Rd

M olo a‘a

ail 2M Tr u a lal Ka

Wainiha Beach Park

Rd ai iw lih Ka

i.

560

‘Anini Beach

Ka Ha ku Rd

Kil au ea Rd

Beach

Hideaways Beach

Secret Beach

Lighthouse R d

Lighthouse

Tunnels Beach

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www.napaliriders.com Anahola Beach Park d Anahola R Anahola

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Exploring Kaua’i 56 Kuhio Highw ay

East Side Mo alep e

Trai l

na Mailihu

d la R aho n i Ka

Rd na e h Olo

Kamalu

K No uam un o‘o ou Tr ail

Kua mo‘o Rd

Roads Dirt Roads Hiking Trails Snorkel Spots Surf Spots

Wailua Falls

Kapa‘a Beach Park Kapa‘a

Ha leil io Rd

Lydgate Beach Park

Kuhio H ighway

Nukoli‘i Beach

Eucalyptus Grove

50 y wi liw ili

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Hanam ‘ulu Wilcox Hospital

Hanam ‘ulu Bay

Ka pu le Hw y

Kuhio Hwy

56

Ahukini Rd

Lihu‘e Ri ce St

N wiliwili

Kip

Lihu‘e Airport

51

Rd

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Na Pali Coast Magazine | 2015 / 2016

Wailua Falls

Wailua Bay

583

‘i Hw uali m u Ka Puhi

Waipouli Beach Park

Waipouli Beach

Wailua

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Rd ‘alo Ma

Lifeguarded Beaches: Anahola Beach Kealia Beach Lydgate Beach

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Trail

580

Note of Caution: The waters around Kaua‘i are known for dangerous currents, large surf, shore breaks, and sneaky waves. It is critical that you check ocean conditions and consult with a lifeguard before going out into the water.

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Noun ou M t

Beach

581

‘

Ka pa‘ aB ypa ss

l rai eT rlin we Po

Kuilau Rid ge Trail

Kawaihau Rd

Kalapak Beach N wiliwili Bay

Ranch

Opaeka’a Falls

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Exploring Kaua’i

South Shore

50

Roads Dirt Roads Hiking Trails Snorkel Spots Surf Spots

Ka um ual i‘i H wy Kal heo L wa‘i

50

530

Rd

520

Glass Beach

Spouting Horn L wa‘i Bay

ass) Byp ip –Po‘ oloa iki (K Kino Ala

Ha lew ili Rd

K loa

Po‘ip Rd

Bay

540

Rd loa

Salt Pond Beach Park

wi liw ili

Tree Tunnel

Lifeguarded Beaches: Poipu Beach, Salt Pond Beach

Hanap p ‘Ele‘ele

N

Ri ce St

Maluhia Rd

Ka um ua li‘i Hw y

Lihu‘e

y

N wiliwili

Note of Caution: The waters around Kaua‘i are known for dangerous currents, large surf, shore breaks, and sneaky waves. It is critical that you check ocean conditions and consult with a lifeguard before going out into the water.

P kala Beach

w li‘i H mua Kau Puhi

Law a‘i R d

L wa‘i Beach Baby Beach

Ha‘ula Beach

Po‘ip

loa Landing Kiahuna Beach

‘ip Po

Brennecke Po‘ip Beach Beach Park

Rd

Gillin’s Beach

Kawailoa Bay

Shipwreck Beach

Spouting Horn

Po‘ip Beach

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Na Pali Coast Magazine | 2015 / 2016

Po‘ip Beach

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Exploring Kaua’i Polihale State Park

Waimea Canyon on ny a eC ai‘ o K

Range Facility

50

Ko ke‘ eR d

y Hw li‘i ua um Ka

Rd Canyon Waimea

552

Waterfall next to Koke‘e Road

Ku ku i Wa ime aC any on T rail

Waimea Pier

Milita ry Bou ndary

550

Tr ail

Waimea Canyon Lookout

Kekaha Beach Park

West Side Roads Dirt Roads Hiking Trails Surf Spots

Note of Caution: The waters around Kaua‘i are known for dangerous currents, large surf, shore breaks, and sneaker waves. It is critical that you check ocean conditions and consult with a lifeguard before going out into the water.

550

Ke ka ha Rd Kekaha

Waimea

Small Boat Harbor Lucy Wright

Check-in Point

Beach Park

Raft Tours Waimea Canyon

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Na Pali Coast Magazine | 2015 / 2016

Beach Ka um ua li‘i Hw y

50

‘Ele‘ele

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ta k i n g i n

the Na Pali Coast

3

3a

1

2

Ke ‘e Beach

4

5

i.

2M

Hanakapi ‘ai Beach

Wai ‘ahuakua Valley Double Door Cave

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3 4

6

5

Hanakapi’ai Falls

5 7

Open Ceiling Cave Awa‘awapuhi Valley

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Nu‘alolo Kai Miloli‘i Beach

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13

Makaha Valley

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11

Nu‘alolo Valley

Mil oli‘i Rid ge T rail

Polihale

Kalalau Valley Ka lal au

2M i.

Koke‘e State Aw a ‘a Park wap uhi Tra 3.2 il 5M

Nu ’alo lo T rail 3.2

10 Va lle y

Tr ail

Hanakoa Lookout

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i.

5M i.

550 Roads Dirt Roads Hiking Trails Snorkel Spots

Na Pali Coast Magazine | 2015 / 2016

Honopu Beach

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Makole

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9

8

Ho ‘olulu Valley

Hanakoa Valley

M i.

Pohakanoa Falls

2

i.

4M

3a

ail Tr u a lal Ka

Hanakapiai Falls Trail

Pirates Cave

6

1

Note of Caution: The waters around Kaua‘i are known for dangerous currents, large surf, shore breaks, and sneaker waves. It is critical that you check ocean conditions and consult with a lifeguard before going out into the water.

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Taking in the Na Pali Coast

Left to right: Looking to the west end of the beach and beyond, winter surf exposes an array of surf-rounded rocks, a summer beach day

HANAKAPI ‘AI

2

The Hanakapi’ai Trail is a 2-mile hike from Ke’e Beach, taking you to Hanakapi’ai Beach. Here, you will encounter a sandy beach surrounded by a heavenly rainforest-like valley. A natural ammonia scent fills the air, caused by fermenting guava fruit and tropical plants. Hiking further into the valley, there exists an amazing waterfall that creates a refreshing, bubbling stream, that winds through the valley and cuts through the beach, flowing over large boulders and finally out to sea. Beware of the tempting ocean here, the Nā Pali Coast ocean currents are an invisible killer at this location, taking 86 peoples’ lives over the years—when in doubt do not go out.

Ke‘e Beach paradise and the gateway to the Nā Pali Coast

B E WAR E

OF THE

Early season winter waves begin their onslaught on Hanakapi’ai Beach.

TEMPTING OCEAN HERE, THE

N Ā PA L I COAST

CURRENTS

ARE AN INVISIBLE K I L L E R AT T H I S L O C AT I O N ,

Left to right: Visitors sun and swim in the Ke’e lagoon, Hawaiian spinner dolphins play outside the reef, Heiau of the hula goddess Laka located slightly past the coconut grove

TA K I N G

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PEOPLES’ LIVES OVER THE YEARS

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KE‘E BEACH

Ke’e Beach is located at the end of the north shore’s road on Kaua’i. It is also known as the gateway to the Nā Pali Coast by way of the Kalalau Trail. As you face to the west, look to the left, and along the cliff, semi-covered by a coconut tree jungle, protrudes an area of black lava rock walls. This is the heiau complex at Ke’e, home of the sacred hula goddess Laka. The setting of this heiau at Ke’e Beach is about as exotic as it comes in Hawai’i.

Just outside of the reef the ocean turns a deep, cobalt blue color. In the early morning look for dancing Hawaiian spinner dolphins here, as they perform like jesters in the royal court of Laka.

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Taking in the Na Pali Coast

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HO ‘OLULU VALLEY

Ho’olulu means “protected bay or waters.“ The cove and sea caves below Ho’olulu Valley are the home of noddy tern marine birds which nest along the cliffs and inside the walls of the sea caves.

The water here is an electrifying blue color, especially in the sea caves when the summer sun shines into them, reflecting off of the shallow, white sandy bottom.

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WAI ‘AHUAKUA VALLEY DOUBLE DOOR CAVE

This is the most awesome sea cave on the Nā Pali Coast. This cave has it all, with a separate entrance and exit. First, there is a large, cathedral ceiling room, and bright pinkish-red rock walls that look like a submerged hippo. Next, there is the spooky darkness at the sharp,180-degree turn in the interior of the cave. Here, your eyes must quickly adjust towards a distant bright light that symbolizes the end of the dark tunnel that leads back out to the ocean. Right before exiting the cave, you hear a gushing water sound and then the sight of a cascading waterfall coming through a hole in the ceiling surprises you.

This is the kind of waterfall you expect to see mermaids swimming in, it’s just so mysterious. And there’s more... at a certain time of day in summer afternoons, something extraordinary happens. Through the hole in the ceiling where the waterfall comes through, there appears a beam of light that literally lights up the waterfall like a bolt of lighting. It creates an electrifying-green cathedral glass circle in the water.

The calcium deposits coming up from the mixing of freshwater with the ocean appear like ghostly apparitions moving up towards the beam of light. Conditions must be just right to see this event.

Looking overhead one sees a towering cliff and an overhang of vegetation at the top of prominent Space Rock. Natural springs of water trickle over the bowl-shaped cliffs. The springs reflect the light of the sun beams, creating a magical display of color.

Left to right: The water fall inside of the cave, the glowing light coming through the ceiling’s hole

Looking from east to west towards Zebra Cave.

3a

PIRATES CAVE

The Pirates Cave is the largest, or shall we say the deepest sea cave on the Nā Pali Coast. Entering the cave takes you through a cascading waterfall. The green moss on the ceiling and white calcium streaks from the natural fresh water springs glow in the shadows of the cave. It will remind you of the spooky cave from the movie The Goonies, with the smell of your favorite old seafood restaurant at the same time.

Left to right: Kayakers deep in the Pirates Cave, cascading waterfall at the entrance, looking out towards the sea

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Taking in the Na Pali Coast

T H E C R Y S TA L CLEAR W AT E R FA L L SPLITS LIKE T H E FA N G S O F A SNAKE, AS IT SLITHERS AND FA L L S I N T O T H E O C E A N ’S ELECTRIC G R E E N W AT E R BELOW

The two ridges left and right of the valley make up a large portion of the Bali Hai Ridge, made famous from the movie South Pacific

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Looking west through the sea arch is a panoramic view of the Nā Pali Coast

HANAKOA VALLEY

A large portion of the Bali Hai Ridge is here, comprised of two lava dike ridges protruding up like sentries guarding both sides of the tropical rain forest valley at Hanakoa. In the middle of the valley you will see a waterfall cascading down the mountain. Along the near-shore coast line one can’t ignore the bright orange-rust earth color created by red iron ore in the soil. In contrast to this color are the dark-green hala trees, which resemble something from a Dr. Seuss book. Further back on the ridge the sisal plant thrives and looks like a 20-foot high asparagus stalk made just for giants. Everything here looks enormous, there is a Jurassic feeling. You almost expect a Pterodactyl or flying dinosaur to swoop down from the cliffs at any moment Left to right: Looking east into the Sea Arch on a summer day, the Sea Arch entrance

Left to right: East valley peak, middle of the valley, east valley ridge on a summer day.

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POHAKANOA FALLS The grayish-black lava Sea Arch is highlighted by Pohakanoa Falls flowing behind it. This crystal clear waterfall splits like the fangs of a snake, as it slithers and falls into the ocean’s electrifying green water below. When sea conditions are extremely calm, the opportunity presents itself to raft right through the Sea Arch. Upon entering, you will be treated to a panoramic view of the entire Nā Pali Coast. Peering down, you are rewarded with the beautiful sight of the magicallylighted, emerald-green water below. Cool, misty spray coming off of the waterfall is a refreshing treat on a warm, summer day.

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Taking in the Na Pali Coast

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HONOPU BEACH For Hollywood (a.k.a. “Nā Pali-wood”), Honopu Beach is a favorite movie filming location. Six Days Seven Nights, King Kong, and Pirates of the Caribbean are just a few productions that easily come to mind.

Honopu Beach made its biggest Hollywood debut in The Man with the Golden Gun, in an incredible scene with the infamous James Bond riding in a red helicopter, being chased under and through Honopu’s natural seaside archway.

Honopu is also known as “The Valley of the Lost Tribe.” This name refers to ancient times when this now silent, brooding valley was the home to native peoples. According to one legend, 300 Hawaiians lived in this remote site, shielded by its over 3,000-foot high, sheer cliffs. Some believe their ancient spirits still wander forlornly through the valley. They tell of a “chicken skin” feeling, of ghostly intangibles heard, and of that uncomfortable feeling of being watched, or being followed

Kalalau grotto in the foreground with the Kalalau cathedrals in the background

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KALALAU VALLEY Remote, deep and hushed is Kalalau, grandest of Nā Pali’s nearly inaccessible valleys. Bowl-shaped and tucked within mountainous walls of rain forests, it’s 3-miles in diameter. Kalalau’s mystic spell is felt in the quiet air that surrounds it, broken only momentarily by tour helicopters that appear like tiny, hovering mosquitoes high above in the distant sky. The valley’s west wall ends toward the sea in cascading cathedrals of stone, with lava dikes thrusting upwards, together forming three towering, knife-edged pyramids, commonly referred to as the “Guardians of Kalalau.” They take command of their valley, steadfast and true, and are the second highest sea cliffs in the world.

To truly describe Kalalau is to compare it biblically, as Kauai’s very own “Garden of Eden.” There are hidden delights in the valley such as cascading waterfalls, slippery-slides carved into boulders from millions of years of water flows, and fairy tale-like streams flowing gently through a mystic, hobbit-like valley.

Every year thousands make the Kalalau pilgrimage, from every walk of life. Some take the challenge by kayak. Others, brave and energetic, hike the 11-mile trail from the end-of-the-road at Hā’ena State Beach Park. The Kalalau Trail is rated a ‘9’ out of ‘10’ for difficulty by the Sierra Club. This trail is no cake walk. One section is nicknamed, not figuratively, “Crawlers Ledge.” To many, it’s a right-of-passage to reach that 11th mile. Some finish the trail in one day, while others take it by sections, camping overnight to break up the strenuous journey. But no matter how you do it, the experience shapes and challenges every participant’s character.

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www.napaliriders.com Honopu Beach and valley on a perfect sun-lit day.

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Taking in the Na Pali Coast

The Open Ceiling Cave is a heavenly place.

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Left to right: Looking up towards the sky through the hole in the ceiling, looking out towards the sea from inside of the cave, passing by the cave’s entrance

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OPEN CEILING CAVE The Open Ceiling Cave is a hollowed-out lava tube (e.g. the ceiling has crashed in). When you are inside of the cave, you can literally look upwards to the sky above. In the summer season, the midmorning sunlight streams through the cave’s dark entrance, penetrating the crystal clear waters and reflecting off of the white, sandy bottom. The result is a boldly blended color palette of electrifying blues and greens—it’s spellbinding. It must be seen first-hand to be fully appreciated.

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AWA‘AWAPUHI VALLEY Awa‘awapuhi is the narrowest and deepest of Nā Pali’s remote, isolated valleys. Some say the name refers to the valley’s sinuous curves and twists that wind between its 3,000-foot walls, like a slithering eel, or puhi. But the more accurate translation is more romantic, for ‘awapuhi is the Hawaiian word for the wild ginger that grows here. Revered for its decorative and fragrant flowers, ‘awapuhi also has many practical uses—for food and fiber, and most notably for the natural shampoo that oozes from its flowering stalk.

Nowadays, this valley (awa) of the wild ginger appears far less lush than it was in ancient times, since the irrigated terraces for cultivating taro plants have long since fallen away. By sea, the valley itself is hidden from view by towering cliffs,

for it hangs above a low sea cliff, with the valley’s main stream ending in a waterfall to the sea. At the base, there is now a tall natural screen of dark green hau, a native Hawaiian bush from the hibiscus family, whose bark was once used for rope-making. There can still be seen a multitude of half-washed away rock dams that at one time went completely through the stream to create perfect terraces for growing taro.

On its western side, at the point overlooking the ocean, is a rock wall heiau, or temple platform designed for worship. It could be the place where the gods of the sea and fishing were once supplicated, or perhaps a dedication site to Ku, the god of war, to whom human sacrifice and cannibalism was sometimes offered.

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Taking in the Na Pali Coast

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NU‘ALOLO AINA VALLEY Nu‘alolo ‘Āina is remarkable for its remains of tarogrowing terraces. People resided in this valley for hundreds of years, well into the early 20th century.

Adjacent to it, and once connected by a primitive ladder over the separating cliff, is the Nu’alolo Kai Beach and Valley, which also contains multiple, elaborate lava rock terraces visible from the ocean.

The terraces left at Nu’alolo ‘Āina are a reminder that a substantial amount of taro was grown here.

With the steep topography of the valley one has to wonder if the farmers were able to produce enough taro to feed the local population, on a consistent basis. With frequent devastations to

crops caused by landslides and flash floods, it was surely a challenge to produce enough crop. This became especially challenging in the winter season when fishing or reef gleaning were made impossible by dangerously high surf crashing against the shorelines and cliffs. The people had to successfully cultivate enough taro because it was literally their only food source at certain times of the year.

Taro, or kalo, grows in watery paddy fields and upland rainy areas, and is considered a perfect food plant all around. Its heart-shaped green leaves have a delicious, spinach flavor, while its starchy tuber is similar in consistency to a potato.

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NU‘ALOLO KAI Nu‘alolo Kai Beach was the portal to the sea for the people of the adjoining Nu’alolo ‘Āina Valley.

A trail and ladder down the separating cliff led to this location which boasted a freshwater spring, expansive beach and and abundant coral reef. A premier fishing village once flourished here, though only traces of it now remain.

While plantings behind the beach provided some food and medicine for the people, it was the surrounding reef that was most prized for its supply of multicolored fish, seaweeds, and shellfish, such as ‘opihi limpets and pipipi snails.

Even sharks were caught, like the white-tip reef shark. Fish and turtle pens were probably set up to hold live catches until they were ready to be eaten. Outrigger canoes most likely lined the beach, ready for offshore fishing when schools of oceanic fishes like aku, akule and ‘ōmilu came near.

Green sea turtles bask in the sun

The reef, of the fringing type, is shallow and extends out from the sandy beach like a natural jetty. Besides providing seafood, it also buffered the persistent onslaught of trade wind swell that rolls in nearly 80 percent of the year. At the lowest tides, half of the reef top will be above water, and virtually dry, the summer sun toasting its crop of golden brown seaweed. This marine plant, a kind of Sargassum (as in the Sargasso Sea) is a favorite food of resident green sea turtles. For a depiction of how ancient people may have lived at Nu’alolo Kai, see pages 16-17.

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Taking in the Na Pali Coast

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MILOLI‘I BEACH Miloli‘i Beach is a wide, expansive beach and a favorite camping spot for kayakers during the spring and summer months, when the huge winter waves have subsided on the north shore. The beach at Miloli‘i, with its warm and dry, sagey air, is a welcome respite.

Miloli‘i is a small valley that soon becomes a narrow passage between dry, 1,500-foot walls. It gets less than a quarter of the rainfall of nearby Kalalau, yet its stream still flows year-round. Thus, it is the last of the valleys having perennial water. This made human settlement here possible for the native

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population. Besides being a source of life-giving water, the stream was the home to native shrimp and ‘o‘opu gobys (the latter is a fish famous for having a ventral sucker that enables climbing of waterfalls). These animals spend the early stages of their lives in the sea, and later ascend and colonize the mountain streams.

The Miloli‘i people also irrigated taro on the back shore flats behind the beach, and fished the surrounding fringing reef, whose bounty is revealed even today by the plethora of shells it offers to collectors.

With the coming of summer, green sea turtles that had taken shelter on the sandy beach (to avoid the tiger sharks hunting the murky wavestirred shoreline), now move back out to the calm, clear waters of the reef to feed. An endangered Hawaiian monk seal is often found sleeping on the beach, probably digesting its belly full of fish and resting for its next hunt.

Unlike Kalalau, there is no connecting hiking trail into Miloli‘i. It is accessible only by small boat or kayak, and the narrow channel through the reef is especially tricky to navigate when the trades blow strong. The risk of being shipwrecked here might appeal to some romantics, but if actually realized, would surely be a nightmare.

Top to bottom: Busy summertime kayak season, over looking the beach, and orange cliff stain of the seasonal waterfall, the cliffs do an imitation of the Grand Canyon.

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Sea Cave Review IT

IS TH E C ALM ING SPR I NG AN D SUM M ER TI M E CO N D ITI O NS O N TH E

N Ā PALI C OAST

THAT

ALLOW OUR R AF T TH E BEST CHANCES TO ENTER TH E

Sea Cave SE A C AVES AN D ARCH ES .

R

e v i e w

I

Story by Captain Chris

always know this question is coming,“Will we be able to get into the sea caves today?”

I reply that it is never a guarantee, every day the ocean conditions can change, and we will enter as long as we can exit as well.

The caves on Nā Pali Coast are highly alluring.

They represent mystery and magic, they are Mother Nature’s creation. Most will admit to never having seen anything like them before.

“How did this form”? What makes that heavenly, Windex-blue color glow in the Open Ceiling Cave?

How did the waterfall form there? What kind of birds are nesting in there? What movies were filmed here?” The onslaught of questions fire at me like a machine gun from the excited passengers, but the truth is that I am just as excited as they are.

You can’t get into the sea caves every day, but when you do, it is always a new experience. Let Nā Pali Riders Raft Tours describe in detail the caves and arches you will be visiting on the Nā Pali Coast of Kaua’i.

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Inside the Open Ceiling Cave

Na Pali Coast Magazine | 2015 / 2016

Inside Zebra Cave at Ho’olulu

YO U

C A N ’T G E T I N TO

T H E S E A C AV E S E V E R Y D AY , B U T W H E N YO U D O , I T I S A LWAY S A NEW EXPERIENCE.

A gushing waterfall flows inside of the Double Door Cave

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45

Sea Cave Review

Open Ceiling Cave

First visit is the Open Ceiling Cave. As our raft enters the cave, look for the electrifyingblue glow of the water which contrasts with the shadowed, black ledge that looks a lot like beaten metal. Sunbeams shine into the cave and penetrate through the summertime calm, crystal-clear waters. They reflect off of the white, sandy bottom, giving forth a heavenly, blue color to the water. The feeling imparted is surreal.

The entrance to the Open Ceiling Cave with its heavenly, blue color

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Na Pali Coast Magazine | 2015 / 2016

On a calm, summer day the raft can navigate through the Open Ceiling Cave

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Sea Cave Review Honopu Sea Cave has its own unique features and views. As you enter, glance back at the waterfall which is framed in by the cave’s entrance. Look for schools of small fish hiding in the shadows and possibly a white-tip reef shark looking to make a meal out of those fish. See nesting seabirds in the crevices of the walls. As you get deeper into the cave, the walls of the cave edges stand out even more. The grayish-black lava rock contrasts with the pinkish-red coral growing at the surf line.

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Na Pali Coast Magazine

Honopu Sea Cave

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Sea Cave Review ITS

OMINOUS CLIFFS TOWER OVER

3,0 0 0

F E E T, W I T H F L U T E D

WA L L S C O N T R A S T I N G FROM LIME TO

Honopu Sea Arch

DARK GREEN.

Honopu Sea Arch is a popular Hollywood movie setting. Many movies have been made at this location, including Pirates of the Caribbean, King Kong, and The Man with the Golden Gun with the dramatic helicopter scene of James Bond flying right through the arch.

There is an air of mystery here, for the backdrop of Honopu Valley has been nick-named Valley of the Lost Tribe. Its ominous walls tower over 3,000-feet high.

Many stories are told of this valley as being haunted by ancient warrior spirits of long ago.

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Na Pali Coast Magazine | 2015 / 2016

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Sea Cave Review

Na Pali Sea Arch

Na Pali Sea Arch is around the corner from Hanakoa Valley. On rare occasions when the sea conditions are calm, the experience of rafting through the Sea Arch may be realized. Upon exiting, the view looking west is truly a “post card moment” capturing a panoramic view down the Nā Pali coastline with waterfalls plunging into the sea from rugged sea cliffs above, and the expansive Pacific Ocean all around.

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Na Pali Coast Magazine | 2015 / 2016

TH E

V I E W L O O K I N G W E S T A S YO U B E G I N T O E X I T

T H E A R C H I S T R U LY A

“P O S T

CARD MOMENT”

...

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53

Sea Cave Review

Wa‘iahuakua Sea Cave

Wa’iahuakua Sea Cave, is known to most as the Double Door Cave because it has a separate entrance and exit. Entering through the back door of the cave, with a trickling waterfall above, you are led through a narrow channel that turns left, where you continue down a long, dark tunnel towards a distant light at the end. As your eyes adjust to the darkness, you are pleasantly surprised with a huge waterfall inside the corridor. When the afternoon summer light shines through the hole , a spotlight appears in the water below.

Calcium deposits creeping up the rocks, seem to rise through the spotlight appearing like ghosts. Looking at the waterfall, one almost expects to see mermaids sitting along the rocks.

AS

YO U R E Y E S A D J U S T T O T H E D A R K N E S S , YO U A R E P L E A S A N T LY S U R P R I S E D W I T H A WAT E R FA L L I N S I D E T H E C O R R I D O R

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Na Pali Coast Magazine | 2015 / 2016

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Sea Cave Review Ho’olulu Sea Cave is nick-named the Pirates Cave. A rushing waterfall guards its entrance, providing every passenger daring to enter with a cool, freshwater shower. It is the largest of the Nā Pali sea caves.

Ho’olulu Sea Cave A

R U S H I N G WAT E R FA L L G U A R D S

ITS ENTR ANCE, PROVI D I NG E ACH PA S S E N G E R W H O D A R E S T O E NTE R WITH A COO L , F R E S H WAT E R S H O W E R

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Na Pali Coast Magazine | 2015 / 2016

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57

Sea Cave Review

Ho’olulu Cove

Ho’olulu Cove is surrounded by three caves. On the far right is Zebra Cave with stripes of white calcium against black lava; in the middle is the Godzilla Egg Cave with big round rocks covered in bright pink corals; and to the left is the Skull Cave shaped like a skull.

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Na Pali Coast Magazine | 2015 / 2016

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