Vacation Northern Michigan, Winter 2023

! n o i t a Vac WINTER 2023/24

wonderful winter getaways DISCOVER snowy adventures SHOP quaint main streets COZY UP with local food & drink

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WARM UP TO WINTER IN

PURE LUDINGTON

Winter is the perfect time to whisk yourself away to the enchanting beauty of Pure Ludington. Whether you're an avid winter adventurer seeking the thrill of snow-covered trails or simply yearning for a rejuvenating escape filled with delectable food and craft beer, you'll find your perfect haven here.

Don't miss the exhilarating New Year's Eve Ball Drop in downtown Ludington or the delightful Pure Ludington Brrrewfest! Make your plans today to embrace the endless wonders of a Pure Ludington winter!

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welcome

C O N T E N TS

Vacation !

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TRAVERSE CITY & GRAND TRAVERSE REGION A MyNorth Media Publication

Michael Wnek Cara McDonald

PRESIDENT EXECUTIVE EDITOR

SENIOR EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR

BENZIE, MANISTEE & CADILLAC

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LEELANAU PENINSULA

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PA I D C O N T E N T

SAULT STE. MARIE, CANADA A SKIER’S BEST-KEPT SECRET Sault Canada’s granite cliffs, monster snow, Canadian hospitality and top-flight ski areas make this Ontario destination a heavenly escape for Michigan skiers.

BY CARA MCDONALD

E

ighteen feet. That’s the amount of annual snowfall Canada’s Algoma District logs in a year. If you need a visual, 18 feet is roughly the height of the average adult giraffe. And if you’re a skier, that much powder means your average season just got a whole lot longer—and more awesome.

Whether you bend toward alpine, Nordic or backcountry, the Sault Ste. Marie area is a skier’s paradise; we recommend you pack them all and point north for your next ski vacay. Here’s what you can’t miss.

DOWNHILL RE-IMAGINED: SEARCHMONT RESORT With terrain offering 750 feet of vertical drop (about 300 feet more than our average ski hills in Michigan) and 50 percent black-diamond runs, this is a skier’s mountain—and one that has had an epic transformation in the last 18 months.

On the mountain, the resort recently added new snowmaking and grooming equipment and two Skytrac triple chairs. The new main chairlift is up and running as well,

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meaning shorter lift lines and better trail access in 2024.

The new Buzzsaw lift services the new Buzzsaw learning area—a key development on a mountain that offers plenty of longer runs and advanced terrain. Buzzsaw consists only of long, sloping greens that will take littles and true beginners from never-ever to skiing-on-the-mountain status right away.

At the base, a new cafeteria has comfier seating and floor-to-ceiling slopeside views, while The Kiln, the onsite restaurant, has had a total menu refresh (they still serve their famous poutine), more seating and a bigger bar. Bonus: The new café has delish local pastries and a liquor license, which means you can say yes to a splash of Bailey’s in your Americano. For more après options or a great spot for lunch, there’s a new heated stone patio for gathering. A new accessible lodge entry and ramp system and accessible bathrooms are welcoming for skiers of all abilities.

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DESTINATION CROSS-COUNTRY: STOKELY CREEK LODGE Fact: If you’re a cross-country skier and want to maximize your time in the snow, you’re traveling to go do it. There’s nothing like a solid stretch of days holed up in a cozy snowbelt lodge to let you log soul-fueling trail time and butt-kicking workouts. The legendary Stokely Creek Lodge in the Algoma Highlands is one of the premier Nordic skiing destinations in North America. Here, 100 kilometers of trails of all levels/abilities cover varied terrain, winding through a landscape dotted with lakes, granite bluffs and ice caves.

MULTI-SPORT ESCAPE: HIAWATHA HIGHLANDS With Sault Ste. Marie as your base camp, it’s an easy distance to some of the easiest-access skiing in the region. This welcoming recreation area draws locals and residents as well as visitors for a variety of sports, from fat biking to forest skating. Here, skiers can hop on 50 km of expertly groomed cross-country ski trails, and 2 km are lit until 10 p.m. for night skiing.

BEAUTIFUL BACKCOUNTRY: BELLEVUE VALLEY LODGE Tucked in a 1,000-acre maple forest sits the Bellevue Valley Lodge, a destination for free-heeled, free-spirited adventurers in the Algoma district. Here, backcountry skiers earn their turns through wooded glades with elevation climbing to 900 feet. The area claims an average snowfall of 250 inches each winter—experience on tele or backcountry skis is required to make the most of it (or snowshoes and snowboard), but for those who long for knee-deep and untracked adventures on skis, this is it.

WHERE TO APRÈS AND STAY: Sault Ste. Marie in winter makes a comfy basecamp and easy jumping-off point for skiers, with Searchmont and Stokely both only about 40 minutes away. Popular lodging spots include The Water Tower Inn, which has a fun indoor aqua spa, and Delta Sault Ste. Marie Waterfront, which overlooks the boardwalk and St. Mary’s River and has views of the Soo Locks from the dining room.

For après-ski eats, check out upscale Peace Restaurant

To start planning your Sault Ste. Marie skiing adventure, visit saulttourism.com MYNORTH.COM

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the up north

insider's list

From laidback bars where you can show off your trivia skills to the best mocha in town, here’s your checklist for winter fun in the Grand Traverse region.

You’ll feel like you’re inside a snow globe at The Village at Grand Traverse Commons. Shop the Mercato then warm your soul with a mocha at Higher Grounds Trading Co. 4

Catch performances at Interlochen Center for the Arts.

In February, the free, family-friendly Winterlochen festival has sledding, s’mores, arts activities and a parade.

Gather at Seven Hills community center on Old Mission Peninsula, home to Old Mission Distilling, the farm-to-table café Mission Proper and the art gallery Tinker Studio.

Settle in with a bourbon flight at Bourbons 72 in Turtle Creek Casino & Resort. Pair it with slow-roasted prime rib and a decadent slice of cheesecake.

The Traverse City Comedy Fest (Jan. 31–Feb. 3) features stand-up, improv, podcast tapings and specialty shows, welcoming national headliners and local and state favorites.

’Tis the season of trivia. Show off your knowledge at Lil Bo, Rare Bird Brewpub, Stone Hound Brewing Co., Kilkenny’s, The Coin Slot, Fresh Coast Beer Works and Incredible Mo’s.

MAP ILLUSTRATION BY GAIL SNABLE

by Carly Simpson

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our small towns

in winter From Old Mission Peninsula to Interlochen, the Grand Traverse region is rich with outdoor recreation and cozy dining nooks.

OLD MISSION PENINSULA Take a drive up this pleasant peninsula and you’ll be treated to rolling hills of sleeping cherry orchards and vineyards tucked in for winter. Grab a bite at Mission Proper or Jolly Pumpkin on your way up to Mission Point Lighthouse. Then explore the Old Mission Peninsula Wine Trail, where you’ll find 10 award-winning wineries that are giving the West Coast a run for its money. In between all the sipping, pull out your snowshoes at Pyatt Lake (1.2 trail miles) or Pelizzari Natural Area (3.2 miles).

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PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

by Carly Simpson

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Discover more things to do in each of these northern towns: link.mynorth.com/towns

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

Traverse City

ACME & WILLIAMSBURG Williamsburg boasts plenty of snowy destinations for nature lovers, like Maple Bay Natural Area to the north and Sand Lakes Quiet Area to the south. To the west, the bayside town of Acme is home to glistening million-dollar views.

Walk the beach along the Acme Shoreline at Bayside Park. Then stop by Osorio Tacos y Salsas (order the namesake items) and enjoy a brew with an icy view at Stone Hound Brewing Company, or dine at Aerie Restaurant & Lounge, perched atop the Grand Traverse Resort and Spa, for a stunning winter sunset.

INTERLOCHEN Interlochen is celebrated for its world-class art institution, Interlochen Center for the Arts, which offers year-round performances. But this artistic haven also boasts endless natural beauty—from Lake Dubonnet and scenic Lost Lake Pathway to Interlochen State Park, with its miles of pristine beach sandwiched between popular ice fishing holes Green Lake and Duck Lake (smelt and pike are favorites of winter anglers). Head to Bud’s for breakfast and Hofbrau for dinner, drinks and live music.

FIFE LAKE Take a seat at the Loon’s Nest for breakfast (get the Loon’s Nest Stacker: fluffy homemade bread with layers of meat, cheddar cheese, eggs and sausage gravy). Fife Lake Inn has you covered for comfort eats (think fried bluegill and smokehouse mac and cheese) in a cozy log cabin atmosphere.

The 21-mile Fife Lake Loop (not groomed) is popular for hiking, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. The annual Ice Fishing Derby and Shanty Décor Contest in February is always a good time.

KINGSLEY Surrounded by lush forests and bucolic countryside, this family-friendly community is home to a sweet downtown with the newly opened Kingsley Local Brewing Company and Cast Iron Kitchen, and the reopened Kingsley Inn, featuring a full bar and lunch and dinner service. Visit Chickadees for Michigan gifts, Olds Floral & Design for fun workshops and Mojo’s Coffee trailer has your afternoon pick-me-up.

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HOW WE

winter

Get outside and play!

FIND PEACE AT SAND LAKES QUIET AREA. Nestled in the sprawling Pere Marquette State Forest in Williamsburg, the 2,800-acre property is home to five glacial-created lakes. Maintained trails form a 6-mile loop, with eight trailheads providing access from four different roads and the Guernsey Lakes State Forest Campground. The trails are wide, well-marked with locator maps at the junctions, and generally easy to follow. The posts are numbered in a clockwise direction, with Post No. 1 located at the Broomhead Road Trailhead parking area. From this trailhead, it’s only a 1.1-mile trek to the walk-in sites on Sand Lake No. 1.

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PHOTO BY TAYLOR BROWN

by Carly Simpson

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SWEAT IT OUT IN A MOBILE SAUNA. In Finland, saunas are an integral part of the culture—a ritual many take part in at least once a week.

They’re known to reduce stress, improve sleep and ward off seasonal affective disorder. Following the lead of his Finnish ancestors, Traverse City native Daniel Sarya founded MI Sauna in 2020. The mobile sauna, housed in a wood-fire heated trailer, is parked at the Traverse City State Park beach where, after sweating it out inside, some hardy souls take a cold plunge into the lake or make snow angels on shore. $35 per person for an 80-minute session.

SKI AT NIGHT AT FAMILY-FRIENDLY MT. HOLIDAY OR HICKORY HILLS,

both in Traverse City. At Mt. Holiday you’ll also love the tubing hill and T-Bar & Grill (order the white cheddar cheese curds). Over at Hickory Hills, the top of Swede Slope offers views of Grand Traverse Bay and downtown.

There’s also a wooded 5K trail for Nordic skiers and a lodge where visitors can warm up with sloppy joes and mozz sticks.

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

MI Sauna

EXPLORE THE VASA PATHWAY. A series of loops (3K, 5K, 10K, 25K) offer

users—cross-country skiers, runners, hikers, mountain bikers, snowshoers, naturalists—a variety of terrain, from easy to difficult. The pathway also welcomes the annual Iceman Cometh mountain bike race (Nov. 4, 2023) and North American Vasa cross-country ski race (Feb. 10–11, 2024). You’ll want to check out the groomed 15K Winter Sports Singletrack, ideal for fatbiking, or the 2.5-mile Vasa Snowshoe Trail.

PHOTO BY EMILY NELSON

VISIT A SNOW-CAPPED LIGHTHOUSE. The same trails we cherish in

Discover more trails and gorgeous seasonal adventures: link.mynorth.com/outdoors

summer take on a different kind of wonder in the hush of winter. Tucked at the tip of Old Mission Peninsula, Mission Point Lighthouse Park is home to miles of wooded trails that make for a beautiful snowshoe hike (note: there are some moderate elevation shifts throughout). Take a moment and amble to the water, soaking in the serene surrounds.

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Photo by Gary Ennis

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SAVE BEES. DRINK MEAD.

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enchanted

TC'S ENCLAVES

While the lights of downtown Traverse City’s Front Street (and bisecting Cass and Union streets) dazzle, don’t stop there.

Browsing the city’s outlying blocks yields untold shopping and dining pleasures.

The Village at Grand Traverse Commons

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PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

by Elizabeth Edwards

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West Front Street

THE VILLAGE AT GRAND TRAVERSE COMMONS Traverse City’s version of Central Park is tucked within 480 acres of preserved parkland just west of downtown. The buildings at the heart of this rolling property are collectively called The Commons (830 Cottageview Drive).

Once home to a 19th-century state psychiatric hospital, the Italianate-style Victorian buildings have been reclaimed and turned into upscale restaurants, boutiques and galleries.

Must-Do: The Mercato in Building 50 where you’ll find an eclectic shopping adventure and not one but two top-flight Italian restaurants, PepeNero and Trattoria Stella. Following your nose to Red Spire Brunch House will never steer you wrong. Elsewhere on The Commons’ grounds, linger over local wine and cider at Left Foot Charley, freshly roasted coffee at Higher Grounds and craft beer at Earthen Ales.

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

WEST FRONT STREET The industrially handsome North Peak Brewing Company with its classic pub food, great beer and neighborhood vibe is the flagship of West Front. But don’t stop there.

Must-Do: The Cheese Lady TC (fresh-cut slabs of the world’s best cheeses, oh my!); Mary’s Kitchen Port where locals have been carrying out their signature sammie, The Gobbler, for decades; Modern Bird, an intimate date-night restaurant; hip tacos at Barrio; TC’s iconic Italian deli, Folgarelli’s; a paperbag filled with fries and a burger at Slabtown Burgers; craft beer at Loco Boys Brewing Company.

EAST FRONT STREET When The Little Fleet, a seasonal food truck lot and year-round bar opened on the corner of Wellington some years back, East Front Street found the glue to hold its groove together.

Must-Do: Paesano’s, where they’ve been quelling our pizza craving since 1981; memorable coffee and bite-sized treats at Morsels; VietnameseAmerican yum at The Good Bowl; stuff you didn’t know you wanted until you saw it at Cali’s; and fabulous Michigan-made handcrafted goods at Compass Rose Outpost. And the grand finale, on Wellington Street in an innocuous old house, find one of the greatest restaurants in the North, The Cooks’ House.

WAREHOUSE DISTRICT Anchored by the edgy Warehouse MRKT and Hotel Indigo, this downtown district sits between West Front Street and Grandview Parkway on Garland Street.

Must-Do: Wander Warehouse MRKT’s stylish shops—Bohmey Beauty, Darling Botanical, eelo, Evil Queen and Relish; catch coffee and a bite at Hexenbelle or Rough Pony, then sign on to paint pottery at Handz On Art. Your beer is waiting next door at The Workshop Brewing Company.

EIGHTH STREET This east-west route that parallels Front Street recently received a fabulous makeover that elevates it from its former back-40 feel. The shops and eateries here are fresh and creative.

Must-Do: Have a retro diner breakfast at Rounds. Continue the theme at EB2 Vintage, home to upcycled furniture and more; find fine wine at Lake District Wine Co.; order up a cold craft beer at Silver Spruce; pick up a to-go dinner (and have lunch) at Raduno. End your Eighth Street odyssey on Lake Street—a kind of back alley to the main route—where neighbors Rare Bird Brewpub and The Parlor serve up vacation-making brew, cocktails and food.

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LOCAL

sips

5 fabulously cozy spots to warm up with a frothy brew or a flute of bubbly.

by Carly Simpson

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Find more Up North hangouts, cocktail recipes and local sips: link.mynorth.com/drinks

BONOBO WINERY

Come winter, this sleek but welcoming tasting room—with its double-sided fireplace and plenty of plush armchairs—is a haven for snowshoers and cross-country skiers adventuring on Old Mission Peninsula. Pair artisan small plates (think crisp goat cheese cakes, quinoa salad with shaved fennel and gochujangbraised pork tacos) with a glass of pinot noir or the sparkling rosé.

Oh, and that peek-a-boo view of West Grand Traverse Bay—that’s pretty great, too.

CHATEAU CHANTAL

We suggest booking a room at this old world–inspired winery and B&B. Ideally on an evening when one of the popular, six-course wine dinners are being held. The fall menu includes delights like duck cassoulet, lemon sorbetto and braised short rib. (Dinners on Nov. 3 and Nov. 10. Check the winery’s website for winter dates.)

FARM CLUB

This brewery/restaurant/market/working farm tucked in Traverse City’s rolling countryside has been in the national spotlight recently. Vogue, Bon Appétit and Hemispheres magazine

by United Airlines have all (finally) discovered what we’ve known all along—Northern Michigan is pretty darn special. And while they may be late to the party, they are correct that Farm Club is indeed a must visit. Pro tip: Reserve an outdoor fire pit and cozy up under wool blankets with drinks in hand (October through March; accommodates up to 10 people).

KINGSLEY LOCAL BREWING

Traverse City’s well-known Workshop Brewing Co. recently opened a sister brewery in nearby Kingsley. The convivial, downtown hangout has live music year-round, plus open mic nights and karaoke. Even cooler: the pepperphoni. The brewery’s telephone directly rings Papano’s Pizza across the street and they’ll bring your order right to your seat.

MAMMOTH DISTILLING

The fluffiest seats in town can be found at Mammoth Distilling.

Snag a wooly chair (you’ll know it when you see it) at the warm, industrial tasting room in TC’s trendy Warehouse District, and order a NoMi Mule with cherry vodka or the spicy-sweet Whiskey Tango Foxtrot with house-made pineapple jalapeño mixer. We recommend dinner beforehand at The Tasting Room, a restaurant just down the street with especially good wood-fired pizzas and small plates.

For exclusive discounts at area wineries, distilleries, breweries and cideries, get your passport at mibrewvine.com

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Photo courtesy of Traverse City Ticker

World-class dining in Michigan's original "foodie" capital Over 150 unique, charming and LOCAL shops and boutiques Year-round arts, culture and entertainment Nestled on gorgeous Lake Michigan

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the up north

insider's list

Six ways to get up close and personal with this coastal region from Benzie County to Ludington and all the snowy forests, lakes and rivers between.

MAP ILLUSTRATION BY GAIL SNABLE

by Carly Simpson

Tuck into a generous breakfast at Platte River Inn. The homey Honor restaurant is even more comforting on snowy mornings—and the coffee is fantastic.

Shop The Port in Ludington. The collection of boutiques and eateries includes House & Harbor, Britter’s Twisted Whisk, Cluck Bucket and HumaniTea.

Order mama’s meatballs and burrata at Vita Bella Italian Kitchen & Market in Frankfort. Chef Ed Carrella keeps his mom’s cookbook in the kitchen.

Manistee’s Victorian Sleighbell Parade & Old Christmas Weekend is one of the North’s most magical winter traditions. Save the date: Dec. 2, 2023.

Trivia at Lake Ann Brewing draws a crowd. Pro tip: Pay attention to the songs playing between questions … they may offer a clue.

Thursday is rib night at Geno’s Sports Bar and Grill in Thompsonville.

We’ll see ya there.

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HOUSE-SMOKED TO FALL OFF THE BONE

PERFECTION

RIBS PORK CHICKEN

BURGERS. SALADS. SANDWICHES. FRIDAY FISH FRY.

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Treat yourself to a getaway at the Dala House on the scenic M-22 Fall color tour!

A short drive to Lake Michigan, Crystal Mountain Ski Resort and Little River Casino.

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our small towns

in winter These sweet towns set out the welcome mat with food, libations and snow-capped adventures.

CADILLAC It’s an ice fishing mecca with lakes Mitchell and Cadillac; the home of Michigan’s oldest ski resort, Caberfae Peaks; a bustling downtown with shops, eateries, Owl Eye Coffee Roasters and Clam Lake Beer Co.; add in a plethora of cross-country skiing and fat tire biking trails … Cadillac pretty much has it all.

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Discover more things to do in each of these northern towns: link.mynorth.com/towns

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

by Carly Simpson

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L'Chayim Delicatessen

ARCADIA This teensy-tiny community is home to two bucket-list destinations. Stop first at Inspiration Point, a roadside turnout that lives up to its name with endless Lake Michigan views. Then strap on your snowshoes at Arcadia Dunes; the Baldy Trails are a favorite.

BEAR LAKE After hitting the trails in neighboring Arcadia, Lakeside Café has the buttermilk pancakes and hash browns you’re craving. Find an old-fashioned country store feeling—and rad jams like Razzle Dazzle—at Wee Bee Jammin’ (note, this seasonal shop closes the weekend before Christmas).

BENZONIA Brake on US-31 for margaritas at The Roadhouse Mexican Bar & Grill, stop for house-made ice cream and fresh-baked doughnuts at Hill Top Soda Shoppe, spend an afternoon at the outdoor ice-skating rink on Traverse Avenue.

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

BEULAH There’s lots to love: The laidback vibes at Five Shores Brewing, a boutique-filled shopping district, bagels baked fresh each day at L'Chayim Delicatessen, February’s can’t-miss Winterfest—complete with a chili cookoff and frozen fish toss.

FRANKFORT This Lake Michigan harbor town dazzles in winter with the picturesque Point Betsie Lighthouse, historic Garden Theater, delightfully cozy Stormcloud Brewing Company (check out the brewery’s popular curling league and lessons starting in January) and fun downtown shops.

HONOR Tucked near secluded snowy beaches in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, Honor is bordered by the Platte River and home to classic Northwoods taverns including Platte River Inn. Pick up BBQ from Jim’s Joint.

LAKE ANN Set on the shore of lovely Lake Ann, find an old-fashioned grocery store, the rocking Lake Ann Brewing Company (with a fab pizza place next door, The Stone Oven) and irresistible small-batch treats from The Bread Lady.

Cross-country skiers love the 5.8-mile Lake Ann Pathway.

LUDINGTON A Victorian-era shopping district (don’t miss The Port and Sister Bees), family-friendly bowling and live music at STIX, two historic lighthouses, stellar sunset views at Stearns Park. Plus, count ’em, three craft breweries.

MANISTEE It’s all things Victorian from history tours of the city’s lumber-era architecture to the annual Manistee Sleighbell Parade & Old Christmas Weekend. But it’s always fine to throw off your corset at downtown’s breweries and eateries.

ONEKAMA This postage-stamp town perched on the shore of Portage Lake slows down in winter. You should, too. Go ice fishing on Portage Lake then make your way over to Blue Slipper Tavern.

THOMPSONVILLE Crystal Mountain, the heart of this rural township, is a top destination for snow sports, including downhill skiing and fat tire biking. Off-campus, check out Thompsonville’s Up North-style taverns and the hip Iron Fish Distillery.

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HOW WE

winter

Get outside and play!

by Carly Simpson

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YOU'VE PADDLED IN SUMMER, BUT WHAT ABOUT WINTER?

PHOTO BY ANDREW VANDRIE

Book a guided rafting trip with the Miltner family at Pine River Paddlesports Center in Wellston. They’ll do most of the paddling and steering, you get to sit back with a camera and a hot drink. The rafts are extremely stable and you don’t have to worry about getting wet. Trips last about an hour and 15 minutes with an optional hike along the Silver Creek Pathway back to your car (or your guide will give ya a ride back). Reservations are required. >

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— Celebrating 67 Years — 1956 - 2023

Crystal Lake Alpaca Farm & Boutique Farm

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Visit out our website for our current meal selections

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Hull’s of Frankfort Open Year Round Family Owned & Operated Since 1956 419 Main Street, Frankfort | 231-352-4642

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Featuring an ever-changing variety of fully cooked, chef-created meals.

Select and pay for an entrée on our website, pick up the food from our kitchen at a specified time, heat it up and enjoy!

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Open 7 days a week at noon

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Daily Food & Drink Specials

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Located 1.7 miles east of Crystal Mountain in Historic Downtown Thompsonville

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Food&Drink Newsletter Dig into Northern Michigan with us and find out where to eat, drink, and taste!

Delivered to your inbox monthly:

MyNorth.com/Newsletter

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TEACH THE KIDS TO SKI. Crystal Mountain

in Thompsonville boasts 59 downhill runs and a 375-foot vertical drop. Also important: truffle butter fries at The Thistle eatery. In Cadillac, take on 27 runs and 485 vertical feet at Caberfae Peaks (take a cue from the weekend warriors, plug in your crockpot at Skyview Lodge). Both ski areas offer slopeside lodging, rental equipment and lessons for all ages.

HIKE AT NIGHT ON THE LANTERN-LIT TRAIL at Ludington State

Park. When conditions allow, about 40 pairs of snowshoes are available to borrow at no cost thanks to the Friends of Ludington State Park, and volunteers are on hand to help strap you in if needed. (Snowshoes aren’t required if you just want to wear your favorite winter boots.) There is no charge to participate, but a Recreation Passport is required for vehicle entry into the state park. These evening treks begin on Saturday, Dec. 9 at the warming shelter. View the full calendar at friendsofludingtonstatepark.org.

BIKE FOR A BREW ON THE 22-MILE BETSIE VALLEY TRAIL that runs

from Frankfort through Elberta and Beulah to Thompsonville. Ski it, bike it, snowshoe it. Get a beer afterward at Five Shores Brewing—and a soft pretzel that’s larger than your face. The wood-fired pizzas at St. Ambrose Cellars also hit the spot—the Bianca is dreamy with ricotta, roasted

zucchini, blistered cherry tomatoes and a welcome shower of summery basil. Dine on the heated patio or get lively with the locals inside the meadery at open mic and Wii bowling nights this winter.

DISCOVER ENDLESS SNOWMOBILE TRAILS in the Cadillac area, a hub

with more than 200 groomed miles rambling through the Huron-Manistee National Forest—though if the snow is good, you can ride from Cadillac to the Mackinac Bridge. Coyote Crossing Resort is a popular hangout, drawing anywhere from 300 to 500 riders on a bluebird Saturday. Owner Peter Finch is happy to recommend routes, plus his favorite scenic stops along the Pine River. Or swap tales ‘round the Boon Bonfire, blazing each weekend outside of the Boon Country Store. Beginners, K&R Outfitters will take you on a guided snowmobile adventure. >

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EXPERIENCE THE THRILL OF ICE FISHING …

from the comfort of fully equipped, heated shanties.

The guides at Sport Fish Michigan will set you up for a safe, memorable day on frozen lakes throughout the North. Their captains are based in Frankfort, Manistee, Traverse City, Leland and beyond.

Discover more trails and gorgeous seasonal adventures: link.mynorth.com/outdoors

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the up north

MAP ILLUSTRATION BY GAIL SNABLE

insider's list Indulge at Alpine Chocolat Haus in Gaylord where you can add any truffle you want to your hot cocoa. Also, the chocolate-covered potato chips are obviously a must.

The annual Alpenfrost celebration (Feb. 17) draws thousands of people to downtown Gaylord for a Frosty 5K, heated karaoke battle, good eats and more winter fun.

Northern Michigan’s snowbelt is brimming with winter fun. Here’s your introduction.

by Carly Simpson

Browse works by 40-plus artists at AuSable Artisan Village in Grayling.

The art destination also connects to Coffee by Steph and Paddle Hard Brewing.

Snap a pic in front of the World’s Largest Ice Tree in downtown Gaylord.

At its seasonal peak, the beloved attraction weighs an average of 200 tons.

Goodale’s Bakery in Grayling has been family owned and operated for more than 50 years. They know how to make a good doughnut (and fabulous paczki in February).

Here’s your brewery hop itinerary: Snowbelt Brewing Co., Big Buck Brewery, Rolling Oak Brewing Co., Paddle Hard Brewing, and Dead Bear Brewing Co. MYNORTH.COM

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HOW WE

winter

Get outside and play!

Hartwick Pines

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PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

by Cara McDonald

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THE GAYLORD CROSS-COUNTRY SKI SNOWBELT. Call it the most perfect of storms: Sweet lake-effect snow and a higher-than-usual elevation put Gaylord right in the heart of a tiny, perfect snowbelt, gaining 20 to 30 more inches annually than surrounding spots even a few miles away. Longer-lingering snow means great conditions for snowmobiling, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing—so much so that Gaylord alone is home to 13 Nordic ski areas. It definitely warrants a road trip, if winter trails are your jam.

Some highlights? For stay-and-play, The Otsego Ski Club/Hidden Valley Resort offers both alpine and Nordic options, with lodging available for members. Marsh Ridge Golf and Nordic Ski Resort has 40 km of groomed trails. Some 365 acres of both groomed and off-trail Nordic skiing await visitors to the Lakeview Hills Country Inn. For more of a big-wild fix, you’ll find state forest trails like Pine Baron, Shingle Mill and Spring Book Pathway; all great destinations with intermittent to no grooming, but steady use.

If you’re an avid skier, in training or clocking serious mileage, check out the 56 km of groomed trails at Wilderness Valley, including a 1.5 km loop lit for night skiing.

FORBUSH CORNERS IN FREDERIC. Nothing kills a good day skiing faster than poor snow, bad waxing, ill-fitting skis or bummer rental gear. But cross-country skiing goes from good to great when you do it at a Nordic center like Forbush Corners—you can count on professional grooming, tuning and waxing, lessons, gear demos, rentals and sales. Forbush also has a state-of-the-art SMI snowmaking system on a 2 km loop, so there’s always something skiable.

CROSS-COUNTRY SKI HEADQUARTERS IN ROSCOMMON. In the heart

of the north, this combo shop and skiing destination packs the one-two punch of being a full-service Nordic center with retail, expert ski fitting, trails and the woodsy, cozy Stone Turtle Café and Lodge for warming, with fare like paninis, cookies and cocktails.

SLEIGH RIDES AT TREETOPS. You can’t beat a sleigh ride for romance

and all the winter feels. The runners singing on the snow’s crust, the jingle of the harness and the snowy plumes from the horses’ steaming breath as they jog along the winter landscape is a symphony for the senses. At Treetops Resort, guests can snuggle in for sleigh rides all afternoon and into the evening, or if you want a private ride, you and your squeeze can book the entire sled so it’s just you, the horses and the gently falling snow.

HARTWICK PINES. Find silent sports, snow and solace along the Old

Growth Forest Trail at Hartwick Pines State Park near Grayling, where you’ll be awed by white pines that are centuries old. The towering trees reach heights of over 160 feet, and trails here are just right for snowshoeing and winter hiking.

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Explore Our Color! www.grayling-mi.com

• Grayling Promotional Association Festival of Trees November 10 through November 25 / Grayling Mini Mall • Hartwick Pines Lantern Lit Snowshoe Hikes December 16, 2023; January 13, 2024; February 3, 2024; March 9, 2024 at 5:30pm • Hanson Hills Cote Dame Marie Ski Loppet January 20, 2024 / Hanson Hills, Grayling • Meijer State Games - Hanson Hills Classic Nordic Ski Races February 18, 2024 / Hanson Hills, Grayling • Hartwick Pines Full Moon Snowshoe Hike February 24, 2024 at 8pm • Hartwick Pines Maple Syrup Day April 13, 2024 at 10am

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Borchers Bed and Breakfast • Day’s Inn by Wyndham • North Branch Outing Club • AuSable Gifts • Ray’s BBQ River Country Motor Lodge • Woodland Motor Lodge • Gates AuSable Lodge • Forest Dunes • AuSable Riverview Lodge Penrod’s Resort • Pointe North • Ramada Inn by Wyndham • Paddle Hard Brewing • The Old Lunberyard Shoppes Super 8 by Wyndham • Grayling Promotional Association • AuSable Artisan Village • Old AuSable Fly Shop White Pine & Petals • Hidden Nook Booksellers • Paddle Hard Yard • Grayling Restaurant • 9 Oaks Inn

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2566 9 Mile Rd. Remus, MI 49340

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our small towns

in winter Shop, dine, paddle and sled your way through this gorgeous region.

by Carly Simpson

GAYLORD This Swiss-themed city—crowned Michigan’s “Alpine Village” thanks to a relationship with sister city Pontresina, Switzerland—fittingly lies in the state’s snowbelt, where 140-plus wonderfully fluffy inches of snow fall on average each year. With four-season resorts Otsego and Treetops, and surrounded by more than 100,000 acres of state forest, Gaylord is a winter sports paradise.

Downtown, Main Street is a shopping hub: 45th Parallel is your stop for outdoor apparel, Isabella’s Copper Pot is a home cook’s nirvana, and Aub Marley’s has eclectic and vintage treasures galore. Don’t leave town without trying the potato pancakes at Abi’s Bistro.

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

GRAYLING The city that dubs itself “Michigan’s most colorful rivertown” sits at the headwaters for the Au Sable and Manistee. Add big beautiful Lake Margrethe, a smattering of smaller lakes and miles of forests to Grayling’s attributes and you get the picture: life here revolves around four seasons of outdoor sports. Stand out attractions? The stand of virgin white- and red-pine forest at Hartwick Pines State Park and 35 km of groomed Nordic ski trails at Hanson Hills. Downtown, catch a movie at The Rialto, grab a juicy patty melt at Spikes Keg ’O’ Nails (the historic tavern opened the day after Prohibition ended) and shop your way through town stopping at The Curator, Tip’n the Mitten, AuSable Artisan Village Art Center and Northbound Outfitters.

INDIAN RIVER This homey town is tucked between Burt and Mullett lakes and sits along the 40-mile Inland Waterway. Indian River is also at the convergence of some of the state’s greatest hiking, biking and snowmobile trails: the 75-mile North

Discover more things to do in each of these northern towns: link.mynorth.com/towns

Central State Trail; the 70-mile North Eastern State Trail and the 32-mile North Western State Trail. The most popular man-made attraction here is the 55-foot-high, 22-foot-wide Cross in the Woods that bears a seven-ton corpus of Jesus cast in bronze at a foundry in Norway. At day’s end, locals and visitors gather at Northland Brewing Company.

LEWISTON With its 22 lakes, water (and ice) makes up nearly half of this Northwoods burg. But you’ll also find rustically elegant Garland Lodge where you can cross-country ski, snowshoe or just relax by the fire. On Saturdays, Garland’s Fish Camp experience offers ice fishing, ice putting, ice bowling and ice badminton on the resort’s frozen ponds. More fun: Learn to curl at the Lewiston Curling Club and go bowling at Timbertown Lanes.

VANDERBILT You could go to Vanderbilt—the northern gateway to Pigeon River Country State Forest—and never spend time inside. Find camping, hiking, snowmobiling and horseback riding on miles of nearby trails, as well as fishing on the Sturgeon and Pigeon rivers.

WOLVERINE The spunky, fast-moving Sturgeon River runs through this quiet town. Head out on an exhilarating paddle (guided winter rafting trips offered through Sturgeon River Paddlesports; no experience needed). Grab a bite afterward at The Thirsty Sturgeon Bar & Grille. The little log cabin in the woods has a big Mac Daddy Burger loaded with mac & cheese alongside entrées like parmesan walleye, chicken marsala and butter-rum pasta.

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the up north

insider's list

Start your day with cinnamon rolls along icy Little Traverse Bay, catch an opera, end with a glass of wine by a roaring fire. This region is full of winter delights.

The Lyric Theatre in Harbor Springs streams the award-winning series “The Met: Live in HD”— this season includes classics like Bizet’s “Carmen” as well as masterpieces like “Dead Man Walking.”

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Tillie’s Tafel legendary cinnamon rolls in Petoskey are the pastry version of a warm hug—bright with cinnamon, heavy on the butter, all-around sweet and nostalgic.

Curate your home or shop for gifts at Three Pines Studio in Cross Village—includes sculpture, fused glass, quill boxes and plein air paintings from local and regional artists.

Make dinner easy as pie—swing by Good Hart General Store and pick up a frozen pot pie (chicken, beef, turkey) to bake after your snow-day adventures.

Mackinac Island to yourself? Yes! It’s all yours in winter. A handful of B&Bs and cottages plus just a few spots to grab food and coffee are open year-round.

Spend a weekend in your own Hallmark movie. Hotel Walloon has an 11/10 atmosphere and is the perfect basecamp for shopping, skiing and hitting the Petoskey Wine Region.

MAP ILLUSTRATION BY GAIL SNABLE

by Cara McDonald

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THOMA

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Come and see us at our New Location in East Jordan!

Thinking about giving your kitchen a face-lift, or even a complete makeover?

My Custom Kitchen in East Jordan is offering 15 to 20 percent off select Masterbrand cabinets through the end of the year.

There is not an upcharge to get the cabinet color of your choice.

Your Kitchen and Bath Design Center Visit us at: 200 Main St, East Jordan, MI 49727 Call us at: 231-484-8084 For more information: mycustomkitchen.com

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our small towns

in winter Welcome to the towns (and one island!) of the Petoskey-Mackinac Straits region.

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

by Allison Jarrell

BOYNE COUNTRY This gorgeous tapestry of recreation is woven from Boyne City, Walloon Lake Village, Boyne Resorts and shorelines on both Lake Charlevoix and Walloon Lake. Find fabulous craft beer pubs, boutiques and an abundance of ski runs. Must dos: Bouquet workshops at Sweetwater Floral; pre-Prohibition era cocktails with a modern twist at Muskrat Distilling; a weekend stay at Boyne Mountain’s renovated Chalet Edelweiss, a 35-room luxe retreat with an onsite Nordic sauna, igloo rentals and a nosh box upon arrival.

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Discover more things to do in each of these northern towns: link.mynorth.com/towns

Harbor Springs

BAY HARBOR The additions of the Great Lakes Center for the Arts, Mammoth Distilling and Maple + Batter (order the candied bacon and breakfast charcuterie board), along with long-loved Knot Just a Bar, keep Bay Harbor hopping all year round.

CHEBOYGAN In this city blessed with Lake Huron and Cheboygan River frontage, entertainment ranges from the restored Victorian-era Cheboygan Opera House to the intimate and swanky Lark Theater & Lounge for live music and martinis. Cheboygan Brewing Co. has the craft beer scene covered and diners snug up at The Queens Head for the smoked trout chowder and baked brie.

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

CROSS VILLAGE & GOOD HART These darling towns on scenic M-119, otherwise known as the Tunnel of Trees (most famous in fall, but equally pretty on a frosty morning), quiet down during the winter. In Good Hart, find the Good Hart General Store—a must-stop for pot pies, cookies and gifts galore. Farther north, in Cross Village, stop into Three Pines Studio to browse beautiful works by Northern Michigan artists.

HARBOR SPRINGS This Currier and Ives-esque downtown is sweet as can be. Spend an afternoon browsing boutiques and galleries: For something extra special, Elizabeth Blair Fine Pearls; one-of-a-kind artwork at Hanni Gallery; cookies

to write home about from Tom’s Mom’s; vacation reads from Between the Covers. Harbor Springs is also the launching point for the scenic M-119 Tunnel of Trees—shoot up to Pond Hill Farm for lunch and wine tasting.

MACKINAC ISLAND The most popular tourist destination in the Great Lakes becomes a haveit-to-yourself secret snow sports destination come winter. Snowmobiles, fat tire bikes, XC skis, snowshoes and you! Mackinac Island Ferry Company runs as long as there isn’t ice in the harbor (when there’s ice, catch a flight with Fresh Air Aviation). Lodging and dining are limited, but karaoke with islanders at Kingston Kitchen is always a good idea.

MACKINAW CITY How could you not love a city tucked at the base of the Mackinac Bridge and at the edge of the storied Straits of Mackinac? It’s also the city where, when the conditions are just right, you can see a surreal winter phenomenon: blue ice. Find out more here: link.mynorth.com/blueice.

ST. IGNACE Learn about the Mackinac Bridge (while you are looking at it!) at Bridge View Park, take the historic walking tour along the Lake Huron Boardwalk to the Wawatam Lighthouse, get lunch at Lehto’s Pasties, explore 100 miles of groomed snowmobile trails, look for wildlife on the Sand Dunes Cross Country Ski Trail, order planked whitefish for dinner at The Village Inn—the fun is just getting started.

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We are currently accepting clients for the 2024 building season in Antrim and Charlevoix counties.

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HOW WE

winter

Get outside and play!

by Anna Faller

The Enchanted Trail, The Highlands in Harbor Springs

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Discover more trails and gorgeous seasonal adventures: link.mynorth.com/outdoors A SNOW GLOBE–WORTHY EXPERIENCE AWAITS on The Enchanted Trail at The Highlands at Harbor

Springs. Bundle up for a dreamy 1.5-mile stroll along tree-lined paths decked out in lights. Belt a few carols at the “sing” section (with lights that twinkle along with your voice), before taking in the dazzling Wall of Lights, and maybe a perfectly-gooey s’more or two. End your night with a toasty beverage at the yurt, or try Zoo Bar for a roaring nightcap. Book a condo at the onsite Alpine Village, which has the warmth and rustic charm of a Northwoods cabin, and you might as well have your own Hallmark movie. Time slots are available between 5:30 and 8:30 p.m.; entry is free for children ages five and under.

EXPLORE MICHIGAN’S DARK SKY. The pitch-black backdrop of Michigan’s Dark Sky parks and preserves

makes for unmatched stargazing. Choose from one of six protected state preserves, or go all in with a visit to one of three internationally designated dark sky parks. Arrive early to catch the sunset, and as temperatures drop, bundle up for an evening spent beneath far-off galaxies. If you’re lucky, you might even catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights. Be sure to check the forecast beforehand; and pack snacks and binoculars to make it a party. For some of the best in the season’s celestial shows, we love Wilderness State Park (Carp Lake) and Headlands International Dark Sky Park (Mackinaw City).

FOR THE WINTER SPEED DEMON, it doesn’t get any better than downhill skiing (and plenty of fresh powder) at Nub’s Nob in Harbor Springs. A family-owned ski area in operation since the late 1950s, the resort boasts a whopping 53 runs and more than 400 feet in vertical drop—there’s even a free practice area for beginners. Cap off your day in front of the fire at one of the two onsite lodges with grab-and-go and pub dining options. Nubs Nob is nestled less than 15 miles away from countless condos and cabins, some of which have ski-in access—all you have to do is bring your gear!

CONQUER YOUR FEAR OF HEIGHTS AT BOYNE MOUNTAIN. If jaw-dropping seasonal views (and maybe a shot of adrenaline) tickle your travel fancy, look no further than Boyne’s SkyBridge. The world’s longest timber-towered suspension bridge, SkyBridge is a whopping 118 feet high and stretches 1,200 feet in the air between the peaks of McLouth and Disciples Ridge, letting guests take a literal walk on the wild side with nothing but surrounding treetops for miles. Afterward, treat yourself to a well-deserved beverage at the panoramic Eagle’s Nest pub, or a snack from the nearby Disciples Overlook food truck. Skybridge hours are weather permitting, and tickets include unlimited access during the timeframe you choose.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE HIGHLANDS

SPEND A FEW HOURS OFF THE BEATEN PATH at Offield Family Viewlands Working Forest Reserve.

Previously a working golf course, this staggering 280-acre property was protected by the Little Traverse Conservancy in 2020. More than 4.5 miles of trail (with plenty of elevated terrain) make this Harbor Springs reserve ideal for winter hiking and snowshoeing excursions, while winding paths give way to views of Little Traverse Bay and the Inland Waterway. You can even plan an evening trip for unobstructed dark-sky viewing.

RALLY UP, SPORTS FANS! In a state where hockey is on par with oxygen, the annual Labatt Blue UP Pond Hockey Championship is a can’t-miss event when visiting St. Ignace. Every year, the event draws upward of 200 teams—and even some celebrities—for the chance to play on frozen Lake Huron and ice that’s 1.5-feet thick (weather permitting). When your nose is properly frozen, head into one of the onsite tents for food, beverages and live music. Pure Michigan camaraderie awaits. Entry is free; don’t forget your foam finger.

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the up north

insider's list

The enchanting Chain of Lakes region offers plenty of snowy season adventures (and cozy nooks for warming up).

MAP ILLUSTRATION BY GAIL SNABLE

by Allison Jarrell

A winter visit to Castle Farms is magical. Explore the grounds with a self-guided tour.

Stop at 1918 Cellars, where you can taste 11 locally produced wines.

After a photo op at the Charlevoix South Pier Lighthouse, walk downtown and stop at That French Place for their award-winning hot chocolate and a Nutella crêpe.

The Foundry Craft Grillery is the perfect spot for a cozy night out. Their off-season calendar is brimming with live music and trivia nights, paired with the best comfort food in town.

Head to Schuss Mountain at Shanty Creek Resort for a dogsledding trip!

Second Chance Mushers’ rescued huskies are sure to put a smile on your face.

Warm up at Mammoth Distilling’s Central Lake tasting room with a seasonal cocktail, and grab a bottle of Cherry Bounce for some at-home mixology.

For all things sweet, Ruthann’s Gourmet Bakery in Bellaire is a must.

Caramel-apple muffins, maplepecan scones, triple-chocolate cupcakes. Yum. MYNORTH.COM

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our small towns

in winter From charming Elk Rapids to Charlevoix the beautiful, these quaint burgs are pure winter magic.

by Allison Jarrell

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

Discover more things to do in each of these northern towns: link.mynorth.com/towns

CHARLEVOIX The fabulous downtown on Lake Charlevoix is brimming with galleries, boutiques and restaurants. Head to Charlevoix Circle of Arts to browse rotating exhibits and beautiful pieces by local artists, grab a matcha latte at Cafe Meria (and a “croffle”—croissant dough cooked in a waffle iron), and end your day sipping a craft beer in front of a drop-dead gorgeous Lake Charlevoix view at Bridge Street Tap Room.

ALDEN Lovely little Alden on Torch Lake is filled with boutiques, cafes, a specialty spice store, an old-fashioned general store and even a wine bar. Enjoy a stroll through the shops, then get cozy at Torch Lake Beer Co. and raise a glass to their superb collection of Northern Michigan craft brews.

EAST JORDAN This lovely city combines outdoor recreation (snowmobiles welcome!) with fun downtown shops and eateries. Check out the Jordan Art Walk along city streets, featuring sculptures created by local artists, then grab some food and a brew at Foundry Craft Grillery.

BELLAIRE The grand old Antrim County Courthouse presides over this charming town that sits between Lake Bellaire and Intermediate Lake. Find a lively shopping district and four-season Shanty Creek Resort here. For a small town, the nightlife is hopping with Short’s Brewing Company, Fireside Lounge cocktail and wine bar, Mammoth Distilling and Bee Well Mead & Cider.

ELLSWORTH Tucked on the northernmost point of the Chain of Lakes, this charmer of a village on Ellsworth Lake is a perfect basecamp for ice fishing, snowmobiling or heading to nearby St. Clair Lake-Six Mile Lake Nature Preserve for some scenic snowshoeing along the universally accessible Mary Behrens Sorrell Trail.

CENTRAL LAKE This sweet town has a true Up North vibe, which was kicked up a notch when Mammoth Distilling opened its doors there several years ago. Drop by Torch Lake Café for a bite, and don’t miss a meal at the stately Blue Pelican Inn—better yet, make it an overnight and grab a room there, too.

ELK RAPIDS Wedged between Elk Lake and Lake Michigan, this town boasts plenty of quaint winter scenery. Browse the many boutiques and galleries downtown, explore one of the North’s most beautiful library settings, then fill up at one of this town’s awesome eateries, like the beloved Cellar 152.

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HOW WE

winter

Get outside and play!

Elk Rapids Ice Rink

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PHOTO BY EMILY NELSON

by Allison Jarrell

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Discover more trails and gorgeous seasonal adventures: link.mynorth.com/outdoors

DO IT ALL AT CHARLEVOIX’S MT. MCSAUBA. This affordable, family-

friendly ski area is truly a winter recreation playground. Enjoy lighted downhill skiing, a snowboarding/terrain park, free access to lighted and groomed cross-country trails (plus 80 acres of ungroomed trails), a free lighted sledding hill, skating rink with a warming cabin and much more.

Visitors can also take advantage of skiing and snowboarding lessons (register online), or participate in a beloved tradition: candlelight hikes.

This will be the fifth season of these Friday night treks, where you can snowshoe, hike or even cross-country ski on candle-lit trails at your own pace (and sip some cocoa by a roaring fire).

DOWNHILL SKI (AND MORE!) AT SHANTY CREEK RESORT. Schuss Mountain is known for its top-notch alpine skiing, but did you know the resort is home to a host of other winter activities? This season, try skiing Shanty Creek’s 28km of groomed cross-country trails. The Nordic trail system crisscrosses the resort’s four villages, offering a beautiful “village-to-village” experience. If Nordic isn’t your thing, there’s a 3km groomed multipurpose trail designed for fat biking and snowshoeing. Or try some alpine tubing with the kiddos. Tip: On “Super Sundays,” you can get a lift ticket, rental equipment and access to learning stations for just $45.

FAT BIKE AT GLACIAL HILLS PATHWAY AND NATURAL AREA. This

Bellaire gem is home to a trail system that encompasses more than 800 acres of forested land, lovingly maintained by the Friends of Glacial Hills.

Last winter, about 7.5 miles of trails were groomed for fat biking, accessible from either the Main Vandermark trailhead or the Orchard Hill trailhead.

If you're looking to rent a fat tire bike, head to Revolution Bike in Charlevoix for a great selection of rentals (plus, their knowledgeable staff is ready to assist first-time fat bikers).

TWIRL AROUND AT THE ELK RAPIDS ICE RINK. Spin under strings of

lights at this community outdoor ice rink located at the marina (118 Bridge St.). The Dam Shop, right next door, hosts the rink for the village and offers coffee and other libations when you’re ready to warm up. The hometown eatery (open for breakfast, lunch and dinner) also livestreams the rink to a TV in the dining room for those who want to grab a bite while still keeping an eye on the kiddos. You can even borrow a pair of skates from the shed, along with hockey pucks and sticks.

CRUISE THROUGH EAST JORDAN. This town is the definition of snowmobile-friendly—you can ride downtown to grab a bite, or head to the popular Jordan Valley Trail, which will take you south of town along the picturesque Jordan River. For local recs, updates and events happening in the area, check out the East Jordan Trailblazers on Facebook.

EXPLORE GRASS RIVER NATURAL AREA AT NIGHT. The folks at Grass River host an array of enchanting events each winter, like their moon-lit guided snowshoe hikes. These serene treks are led by a naturalist who will help you look for the signs and sounds of the forest’s nocturnal wildlife. (Bring your own snowshoes, or rent some there for $5.) Or try a self-guided lantern-lit ski along groomed trails, and finish your trip at the center’s pavilion, where a warm, crackling campfire awaits.

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the up north

insider's list

From where to get the best hot cocoa to snowy winery adventures and so much more—here’s your guide to this beautiful peninsula in winter.

MAP ILLUSTRATION BY GAIL SNABLE

by Elizabeth Edwards

Enjoy the laidback, off-season vibe at the county’s many wineries. Superinsider’s tip: In winter, Brengman Brothers serves up fresh oysters.

Learn to curl on the indoor rink at Broomstack Kitchen & Taphouse in Maple City.

Pair Indian food from NJ’s Grocery with to-go cocktails from Northern Latitudes Distillery—both in Lake Leelanau.

Discover and shop for all things Polish, from food to ceramics, at the Polish Art Center in Cedar.

Poppy Things in Suttons Bay will fill your craving for art, home goods, boho clothing and bespoke accessories.

Grab a cup of decadent hot chocolate—whipped cream is a must— at Grocer’s Daughter in Empire while you browse beanto-bar treats.

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our small towns

in winter From Northport to Empire, the villages of Leelanau Peninsula sparkle with warmth and fun!

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

by Elizabeth Edwards

Downtown Suttons Bay

SUTTONS BAY Find robust winter shopping at Bahle’s of Suttons Bay, The Front Porch and Lima Bean.

The list of open eateries is equally healthy. On the elevated side: Martha’s Leelanau Table, Wren, Gilchrist Farm. More casual: Streetside Grille, Boone’s Prime Time Pub, Northern Country Kitchen, Hop Lot Brewing Co. Make sure to catch a movie at the historic, community-owned Bay Theatre. >

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Chimoski Bakery of Suttons Bay A small-town bakery that uses some of Grandma’s best recipes.

We focus on providing you with small-town service and customer satisfaction. We will do everything we can to meet your expectations!

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Discover more things to do in each of these northern towns: link.mynorth.com/towns Leland

CEDAR Browse sweet shops including L. Saile Jewelry, Cedar Emporium and Wool & Honey—a sheep-to-needles yarn shop. Fuel up at Cedar River Coffee Company and pick up pizza and other seriously delicious (and affordable) hot dishes to go at Bunting’s Market.

MAPLE CITY Dive into killer breakfasts at Pegtown Station and great burgers at Broomstack Kitchen & Taphouse. Just west of town the pizza, sammies and Sunday brunch are amazing at Market 22, and the elevated pub food at Little Traverse Inn is often accompanied by live music.

PHOTO BY ALLISON JARRELL

EMPIRE Visit a handful of fun shops including Empire Outdoors and Miser’s Hoard, head to the village beachfront for an up-close view of Lake Michigan in winter, then grab fab pub grub at The Village Inn or Joe’s Friendly Tavern.

Find legit sammies at Shipwreck Cafe.

GLEN ARBOR In this charmer on Sleeping Bear Bay, check out Coastal, Cottage Book Shop, Becky Thatcher Jewelry, Great Lakes Tea & Spice, Cherry Republic and more. Dining ranges from Millie’s to-go pizza and iconic Art’s Tavern to the more refined La Bécasse, Funistrada, Blu and The Mill. Wrap up a day here with a glass of local wine at Glen Arbor Wines (live music on Saturday evenings!).

LAKE LEELANAU Situated on the beautiful Lake Leelanau Narrows, this town mixes a friendly vibe with the buzz of three wine tasting rooms (Boathouse, Amoritas and Soul Squeeze) and Northern Latitudes Distillery. Grab coffee at Pedaling Beans, try the classic tavern fare at Dick’s Pour House or enjoy the best of both worlds at Nittolo’s Pizza/Nittolo’s Seafood & Social.

LELAND Start your morning at Trish’s Dishes or Leelanau Coffee’s Breakfast Bistro and end it with relaxed fine dining at The Riverside Inn. In between, revel in the shuttered magic of Fishtown’s shanties—decked in winter lights for the season—and browse an array of fabulous boutiques on Main Street with a break for wine at Verterra.

NORTHPORT Breakfast at New Bohemian Cafe, while away hours browsing gifts and home elements in the Pennington Collection, then bowl while you grab burgers and a beer at Northport Pub & Grille.

OMENA/PESHAWBESTOWN Take a table with a view of Omena Bay at Knot Just a Bar, taste away at Leelanau Cellars and hit the slots at Leelanau Sands Casino in Peshawbestown, the home of the Grand Traverse Band of Ottawa and Chippewa Indians.

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winter

Get outside and play!

by Elizabeth Edwards

Sleeping Bear Dunes

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PHOTO BY TAYLOR BROWN

DISCOVER THE SLEEPING BEAR DUNES IN WINTER! If you’ve frolicked on the Dune Climb in summer, try skimming over its snowy hide on a sled—when the conditions are right, you'll hurtle pell-mell across the parking lot at the bottom.

Once you’ve shaken the snowy-sand off, hit the Heritage Trail on cross-country skis or snowshoes. Looking for icy Lake Michigan views? Revel in them at the precipices of a bounty of trails that snake through woods and across dunes.

Warm up in the cozy bars and eateries of Glen Arbor and Empire. >

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Discover more trails and gorgeous seasonal adventures: link.mynorth.com/outdoors

CLIMB TO HEAVEN ON SNOWSHOES along a 1.5-mile ascent through

GO TUBING AT TIMBERLEE, Michigan’s largest no-lane tubing hill. Kids

CUE THE CURRIER & IVES WINTER NOSTALGIA: Ice skate on the

DOWNHILL SKI AT THE HOMESTEAD and drink in the stellar view of Sleeping Bear Bay and the Manitou Islands from the top of the hill. Gather ‘round bonfire pits in the winter village where food and bevvies are close at hand.

Clay Cliffs Natural Area that culminates in celestial views of both Lake Leelanau and Lake Michigan.

Zamboni-surfaced outdoor rink at Hancock Field nestled among the Victorian–home lined streets of Leland. Find two other outdoor skating rinks in the sweet villages of Northport (at Braman Hill Recreation Area) and Suttons Bay (at the corner of Lincoln and Broadway)—a stone’s throw from a great burger at Boone’s Prime Time Pub.

MAKE IT A DAY ON THE LEELANAU TRAIL. Groomed for cross-country

from 4 to 84 are welcome to get their thrills screaming down the slope. Afterward, head into the warming house for pizza, nachos and a well-stocked bar.

SIGN ON FOR A NO-SWEAT WINTER ADVENTURE with Grand Traverse

Bike Tours in Suttons Bay—they’ve got the skinny on how to go from wineries to igloos on fat bikes or snowshoes.

skiing in winter, this 17-mile path from Traverse City to Suttons Bay winds through woods, across fields and most importantly by Farm Club (a local-food centric restaurant, brewery and bakery) and Shady Lane Cellars where the wine and vibe are both delish.

CROSS-COUNTRY SKIS, SNOWSHOES AND FAT BIKES are all welcome on the miles of groomed trails at Leelanau State Park. Don’t miss snapping a pic of the Grand Traverse Lighthouse in winter while you’re out there.

EXPLORE A LEELANAU VINEYARD ON SNOWSHOES—including

BRING SLEDS TO BAHLE PARK IN SUTTONS BAY—you know it’s a

45 North Vineyard & Winery, Black Star Farms, Blustone Vineyards, Aurora Cellars and Rove Estate. Reward yourself, of course, with a glass of stellar local wine.

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great hill because it’s where the locals go. Après sledding, head to Hop Lot Brewing Co. where parents can order up a craft beer and kids a root beer.

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