Traverse Northern Michigan, February 2024 by MyNorth

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INSIDE

Northern Home & Cottage

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M AC K I N A C I N W I N T E R FEBRUARY 2O24

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Pond Hockey Nordic Joy Rose Hip Paczki Ski the Sault Spicy Sichuan

$6.5O

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CRYSTAL THRILL

“ONE OF THE BEST SKI RESORTS” U.S. NEWS & WORLD REPORT With 59 trails for skiers and boarders of all experience levels. Spend the day or stay the night. Buy lift tickets at crystalmountain.com/tickets. Book accommodations by calling 866-348-9070. C RYS TA L M O U N TA I N .C O M

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1/7/24 10:23 PM

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features 02.24

DISCOVER MORE ABOUT UP NORTH PEOPLE, PLACES, FOOD AND EVENTS.

photo by Allison Jarrell Acosta

I N TO T H E Q U I E T

Mackinac Island in winter is not the Mackinac Island you know. The cold bites. The wind scrapes. Downtown sleeps. Snowmobiles rule. But those who have experienced it, even just for a weekend, know: Winter is the best season of all.

NORDIC JOY

With a large population boasting Northern European roots, Michigan has a true knack for embracing and savoring winter (think steamy saunas and hygge homes). We celebrate the customs and rituals that teach us how not just to survive, but thrive in our darkest season. B Y A S H L E A W A L T E R , C A R A M C D O N A L D, J A C O B W H E E L E R & SHEA PETAJA / PAINTING BY LINDY BISHOP

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DEPART M E N TS

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5 | EDITOR'S NOTE 6 | EVENTS

February is brimming with wintry fun, from a U.P. Iditarod qualifier to Traverse City’s Comedy Fest.

7 | ART WATCH

Lindy Bishop’s contemporary take on northern landscapes.

9 | TRAVEL

People travel to St. Ignace from across the nation, and the world, for the Labatt Blue Pond Hockey Championship.

55 | CULINARY NORTH

Crocodile Palace’s spice-steeped Sichuan menu turns up the heat on local cuisine.

57 | SIP

The buzz around town.

58 | ON THE TABLE

Make this traditional Polish treat at home for a fresh, warm-fromthe-oven Paczki Day game-changer.

60 | LOVE OF THE LAND

Treat Farm offers a magical winter hike to a panoramic bluff-top perch.

photos by Sarah Goodwin (top) and Jim Hopper

11 | OUTDOORS

For cross-country skiers— and snow-lovers of any stripe— bountiful powder and snowy adventures wait just across the border. Follow Us On Social Media

facebook.com/mynorthmedia instagram.com/mynorthmedia pinterest.com/mynorthmedia

ON THE COVER A mid-winter walk down Mackinac’s Main Street. photo by Allison Jarrell Acosta

4 T R AV E R S E N O R T H E R N M I C H I G A N

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1/9/24 6:04 PM

Traverse

NORTHERN

Editor’s Note

MICHIGAN A MyNorth Media Publication

Vol. 43 | No. 9

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Cara McDonald

SENIOR EDITOR SPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR DIGITAL CONTENT & SOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGIST

Elizabeth Edwards Meagan Francis Carly Simpson Allison Jarrell Acosta Rachel Soulliere

CULINARY COLUMNIST

Stacey Brugeman

PROOFREADER

Caroline Dahlquist

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

Kandace Chapple Anna Faller

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Tim Hussey Theresa Burau-Baehr

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS

Rachel Watson Julie Parker

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Mike Alfaro Ann Gatrell Julie James Meg Lau

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Erin Lutke

MARKETING DIRECTOR

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Ashlyn Korienek Nichole Earle

OFFICE MANAGER

Kayla Kennedy

MARKETING COORDINATOR

EDITORIAL & ADVERTISING OFFICES

415 Cass St., Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 | Fax: 231.941.8391 SUBSCRIBER SERVICES

A SEASON OF ACCEPTANCE

by CARA MCDONALD

hile i write this, the world outside is calling for the opposite of fortitude and winter adaptation. I’m neck deep in fog and a sloppy, green Christmas. I thought I’d be battling the elements and enjoying time on skis, or at least watching the boys sled on thin and crusty snow with our unhinged Australian shepherd. Instead, there’s teen oversleeping and general despair. The missing snow feels like a friend who has died. Without it, we’re a little lost. I was planning to write about braving winter and Nordic fortitude in honor of this month’s story “Nordic Joy,” but this also takes a kind of fortitude, to detach from the expectation of a postcard winter, or at least one that lets us blow off some steam outdoors. The Little Book of Hygge, the blockbuster that introduced the world to the Danish concept of cozy wellbeing, is about embracing comfort, warmth, generosity and simplicity, not an idealized setup. It’s about detaching and acceptance. Making the most of the season you are in, because why fight it? So, I lower my expectations. What can we do? We can walk to the movie theater for a cheesy family matinee. We can bake cookies. We can binge endless episodes of “Impractical Jokers.” I pile on the couch with my dudes as the four comedians and lifelong friends compete to embarrass each other with a series of cringe-worthy dares. The boys howl; this is right up their alley. My oldest slings a spindly one-arm hug my way, delighted that I’m in on the gross and uncomfortable humor. I settle in to watch them watch, enjoying their laughter, picking through the cookie tin for one more peanut butter blossom, oblivious to the rain that has started to drum on the windows once more.

Visit MyNorth.com/Account to renew your subscription, change your address or review your account. Please email other subscription inquiries to info@mynorth.com or call 800-678-3416 between 8:30 a.m. and 5 p.m. EST.

Cara McDonald, Executive Editor cara@mynorth.com Traverse Northern Michigan, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly by Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan, 1 Broadcast Way, Cadillac, MI 49601. Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse Northern Michigan, 415 Cass St., Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $39.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $6.50. Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2024, Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

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Up North EVENTS

FEBRUARY FUN by ALLISON JARRELL ACOSTA

THURS / 1

The Traverse City Comedy Fest features a mix of stand-up performances, improv and specialty shows. More than 80 comedians—including national headliners and regional favorites—will appear on stage over the three-day laugh fest. JAN. 31–FEB. 3

MyNorthTickets.com

SAT / 3

Embark on a serene, one-mile-long lantern-lit snowshoe hike at Ludington State Park. Meet at the warming shelter near the entrance of the park. There will be bonfires at both the warming shelter and the amphitheater, along with free warm beverages at the amphitheater. No registration required; admission is free. FEB. 3 & 17

pureludington.com

FRI / 9

Fall in love with your new favorite vintage at the Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail’s Taste the Passion food and wine event. For $45, attendees will receive a 1.5-ounce pour of hand-selected wine with a food pairing from participating wineries. FEB. 9–11 photo by David Kenyon

MyNorthTickets.com

SAT / 10

The North American Vasa returns, continuing a 48-year tradition that celebrates cross-country skiing and winter sports. All races begin and end at Timber Ridge in Traverse City.

SAT / 10

If you’re dreaming of being transported to a balmy beach in Mexico, you’ve stumbled upon the right event. Head to The Cooks’ House in Traverse City for a fun-filled cocktail crafting class, featuring the only spirit that can truly be called sunshine in a bottle: tequila. MyNorthTickets.com

SAT / 10

Gopherwood Concerts presents Michael Waite at the Cadillac Elks Lodge. A melding of earthy grace and campfire poeticism, Waite is a singer, songwriter and guitarist who hails from the north shore of the U.P. MyNorthTickets.com

THURS / 15

Cheer on mushers and their sled dogs as they take on the 228-mile UP200 (an Iditarod qualifier). The course runs from Marquette to Grand Marais and back again through forested lands and wilderness. FEB. 15–19

up200.org

SAT / 17

Shake off the winter blues at the annual family-friendly Winterlochen festival (free!), hosted by Interlochen Center for the Arts. Conduct an orchestra, perform in an acting workshop, learn to swing dance and so much more. Perfect for kids of all ages. interlochen.org

SUN / 25

Enjoy incredible dining specials during Traverse City Restaurant Week.

FEB. 10–11

FEB. 25–MARCH 2

vasa.org

downtowntc.com

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Up North

A R T WATC H

A RURAL RENAISSANCE by ANNA FALLER

Celebrating Northern Michigan one painting at a time.

photos by Dave Weidner

or contemporary landscape artist Lindy Bishop, art is all about celebrating the features that define a region. “For me, sense of place is important,” she says. “What I like to paint is right outside the door.” A hands-on maker since childhood, the Elk Rapids native was raised by an artist mother before setting out on the “Rubik’s Cube” path that led to a full-time painting career. “It’s a long story,” she explains with a laugh. It’s one that took countless detours through other fields, from economic development and entrepreneurship to marketing and communications.

Despite those detours, Bishop always found time to paint. Her colorful résumé includes the mentorship of acclaimed Swedish artist Lars-Birger Sponberg, residencies in Costa Rica and Spain and gallery shows throughout Michigan and beyond. Her newest work is Studio Y: a workshop-meets-residential space in Yuba. “It’s like a journey back in time,” Bishop says. “Most people think there’s nothing going on in rural spaces, but for me, there’s everything going on.” So named for the township’s first initial—and the link between creativity and asking questions—the project began in February 2022, when Bishop discovered the blighted building, which once housed the Yuba Trading Post, was for sale. Since then, Bishop and a team of friends and neighbors have stripped the place down to its studs, breathing new life into a landmark structure. Inside it’s home to the reconstructed cinder-block art-filled work space, with living

quarters attached. Bishop plans to list the space as a short-term rental and to host other artists. To view Bishop’s work this winter, schedule an appointment; there will be regular open hours for the public this summer. —

Studio Y

9440 US-31 N, Williamsburg lindybishop.com

Anna Faller is a Traverse City-based freelance writer and interviewer with a passion for good books, great food and Michigan travel. annacfaller@gmail.com F E B RUA RY 2 0 2 4

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Travel

ROUND OUT YOUR WEEKEND TAKE A HIKE: Straits State Park has fantastic views

LACE UP by CARLY SIMPSON

of the Mackinac Bridge. The North Country Trail passes through, a portion of which travels along the park’s one-mile hiking trail. GRAB A BITE: The Village Inn is known for its whitefish—a filet baked on a maple plank with sautéed vegetables and a Parmesan-crusted tomato crown bordered with duchess potatoes. SPEND THE NIGHT: The Driftwood Motel is especially cozy during a February snowstorm—the rustic interior boasts an excellent heater to combat the chill coming off Moran Bay directly across the street. The onsite restaurant and sports bar has all the necessities: cheese curds, pasties with gravy, pints of Two Hearted. stignace.com.

People travel to St. Ignace from across the nation for this open-air take on a traditional hockey tourney.

photos by Jim Hopper

icture this: 176 teams, four players apiece, gather on a frozen stretch of Lake Huron. On clear days, Mackinac Island looms across the bay, disappearing bit by bit when the wind starts to whistle. Ferry boats, docked for the winter, border the rinks; downtown St. Ignace’s snug restaurants and hotels wait warm and welcoming a couple hundred feet away, ready with a hot toddy at day’s end. Yeah, it’s pretty epic. Each February (this year, Feb. 15–18), the Labatt Blue Pond Hockey Championship draws competitors from our neighbors in Wisconsin, Ohio and Canada, as far away as Florida and Texas, and, farther across the pond, Czechia. Some have been coming for more than a decade. “It reminds me of my childhood,” says Event Manager Bridgett Sorenson. “Shoveling off a pond, lacing up and seeing your breath on a clear, crisp day.” The championship started back in 2007 with 24 teams and has since grown to an average of 150 each year. Over the three-day event, which is a fundraiser for the St. Ignace Youth Hockey Association, about 300 games of pond hockey—a simplified version of traditional ice hockey, played on frozen natural bodies of water—take place on Moran Bay with matches that pit teams like Goon’s Pals vs. Chilidawgs and Weekend Parolees vs. Anonymoose. The atmosphere is jolly for spectators, too: a big heated tent, live music, a bar, free admission. (Bring folding chairs to set up alongside the rinks.) “If you like winter and Northern Michigan, this is a mustsee,” Sorenson says. “The bay is beautiful and full of laughs.” F E B RUA RY 2 0 2 4

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COMMITTED TO IMPROVING LIVES 10 T R A V E R S E N O R T H E R N M I C H I G A N

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Outdoors SKINNY-SKI PARADISE by CARA MCDONALD

For cross-country skiers—and snow-lovers of any stripe—bountiful powder and snowy adventures await just across the border.

he magic of cross-country skiing isn’t just in the constant challenge of the sport or the benefits to the body. (Nordic skiing is, in fact, jaw-droppingly beneficial, boosting cardiac health, endurance, lowering anxiety and more.) It’s the way the sport speaks differently to skiers and bodies of all kinds, luring destination snowsport travelers. And one of the best cross-country skiing spots in North America is Sault Ste. Marie, Canada. Thanks to specific meteorological conditions that pair geological features with advantageous weather patterns, the area gets dumped on with Lake Superior lake-effect white stuff. Consistent winter snow draws travelers to far-flung enclaves where they can immerse in the cozy pace of lodge life with other “Nordorks.” Whether you bend toward classic (parallel tracks), skate skiing (more structured bindings supporting a skating stride and maximum speed) or backcountry (free-heeled adventuring like telemark), the Sault Ste. Marie area is a skier’s paradise.

photo courtesy of Tourism Sault Ste. Marie

Hiawatha Highlands

With Sault Ste. Marie as your base camp, it’s a quick distance to some of the easiest-access skiing in the region— Hiawatha Highlands. This welcoming recreation area draws locals as well as visitors for a variety of sports, from fat biking to forest skating. Here, skiers can hop on 50 km of expertly groomed cross-country ski trails, and 2 km are lit until 10 p.m. for night skiing. Stay: In Sault Ste. Marie proper, you’ve got a host of lodging options—The Water Tower Inn has a fun indoor aqua spa, and Delta Sault Ste. Marie Waterfront, which overlooks the boardwalk and St. Mary’s River, has views of the Soo Locks from the dining room.

like-minded adventurers. Lodge rooms are snug, with a Scandi-minimalist vibe; an on-site log cabin is also available.

Stokely Creek Lodge

Bellevue Valley Lodge

If you’re a cross-country skier and want to maximize your time in the snow, you’re traveling. There’s nothing like a solid stretch of days holed up in a snowbelt lodge to let you log soul-fueling trail time and butt-kicking workouts. The legendary Stokely Creek Lodge in the Algoma Highlands is one of the premier Nordic skiing destinations in North America, tucked in a microclimate heaven-sent for skiers. Here, 100 km of trails for all levels/abilities cover varied terrain, winding through a landscape dotted with lakes, granite bluffs and ice caves. Stay: The Lodge is delightfully all-inclusive with accommodations, meals and trail passes, which means the rhythm of your stay is wake, fuel, ski, eat, repeat … all surrounded by

Tucked in a 1,000-acre maple forest sits the Bellevue Valley Lodge, a destination for free-heeled, free-spirited travelers in the Algoma district. Here, backcountry skiers earn their turns through wooded glades with elevation climbing to 900 feet. The area claims an average snowfall of 250 inches each winter—experience on tele or backcountry skis is required to make the most of it (or snowshoes and snowboard) but for those who long for knee-deep and untracked adventures on skis, this is it. Stay: Trail use is included with lodging, or day use by appointment runs $20 US. You can either book one of two B&B-style rooms at the Lodge or opt for a whole chalet that sleeps up to 15 people. Meals available upon request. F E B RUA RY 2 0 2 4

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JOY

by JA AS H CO L B W EA W H E A LT EL E ER R, C & S AR HE A M AP C ET DON AJ AL A D

I D R

TH AN IN N KS T H O RT TO O EP H U JO ER ERN R N Y MI ORD TH -FIL FEC E M LED T H CHI IC OS pa PL EAR G AN INFL int T A T U ,W ing Y OF Y E’ ENC by WI BOO , CO LIN NT K F ZY VE G E DY ER OT OR AN BIS . MA D HO P KIN G

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YOU

can imagine the jolt of familiarity, the wind that whispered “home” when Scandinavian and Finnish immigrants settled the Northwoods and cold waters of Northern Michigan. Sea captains, lumberjacks, farmers, winter-hardy souls—thousands flocked to the American Midwest from the Nordic region following a 19th-century population boom that overwhelmed infrastructure and sent many in search of a better life.

More than 150 years later, Michigan ranks near the top of states home to a vibrant population of those of Scandinavian descent. And our “Sauna Belt” is legit: The U.P. claims 50 times more folks with Finnish heritage than the rest of the nation. They gifted us sturdy work ethics, toasty-hot saunas and strong pickling skills. But above all, they have a knack for embracing and savoring winter. Here, we celebrate the customs and rituals that teach us how not just to survive, but thrive in our darkest season.

MY FRIEND FIKA In the depths of a lonely winter, an afternoon ritual saves the day. by Cara McDonald

~ During the first full winter of the Covid-19 pandemic, there were three things I was madly grateful for: books, coffee and afternoon skis with my friend Tash. And though I claim no Nordic DNA that I know of, I was fascinated (encouraged?) by the burgeoning interest in Nordic sensibilities—from sisu to hygge to friluftsliv. Resilience, coziness, open-air life: These were things I needed desperately. We all did. I had just finished a book on sisu, Finnish fortitude and resilience, and moved on to a book about hygge, the Swedish notion of cozy contentedness. It made me think not just, “What about this can I use to hack my life,” but more along the lines of, “How can I steal anything from these pages that will help me get through one more mind-numbing, 14 T R A V E R S E N O R T H E R N M I C H I G A N

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soul-killing day of remote-learning, homeconfined hell?” Fika is a Swedish coffee tradition in which you break for coffee and a dunk-able sweet at 4 p.m. It’s not a coffee break—at least not the way we understand it, clutching a to-go cup or standing over the counter in the office kitchenette. It’s a sit-down-with-a-friendand-a-snack institution; Swedes call it a state of mind. Even the Volvo factory shuts down for fika. Time stops. Fika (a term that came from playing with the Swedish word for coffee, kaffi) is dependent upon the merging of coffee, pastry and companionship—you can’t fika alone. Not that I didn’t try, because... Covid. At 4 p.m., I cracked out a chocolate protein bar and a Nespresso latte, then sat down at the kitchen table with a Spotify playlist humming in the background. It created a destination in the middle of what felt like an uninterrupted sea of sameness, hours that stretched forever with little to look forward to. It was also an act of self-kindness when I wasn’t feeling particularly kind. To myself or other selves. It was fika-ish. But when I shared the idea with my friend Tash, she was on it. Tash is a hippie/schoolnurse/gourmet home cook; the kind of friend you want in your corner when you need someone to hook you up with music on vinyl, a Ruth Reichl apple cake recipe or a lice check, not in that order. “Meet me in the parking lot at the open space,” she said. “I’ve got baked goods.” There had been a good dump of snow and the crosscountry skiing was perfect. I brought the coffee and a can of whipped cream; she brought a basket with apricot scones and Amaretto, wrapped in a red-and-white checkered towel. Tash and I skied until the wind chased us back to our cars, and then hoisted the hatch on her Subaru. We cracked into our coffee and scones, catching up in a socially distant way that felt like salvation. We cackled, got out our quota of adult angst and four-letter words, then refilled our Thermos cups one last time before heading home renewed. We had found our fika. I still seek out coffee at 4 p.m., even though I’ve moved away from my dear friend and our snowy meadow. It seems a tradition worth adopting and a tiny act of rebellion, to pause at a time when after school meets end of the work day meets what the hell is for dinner, and instead invites pure savoring and connection. When I take the time to do it, my cup is always full.

THE SPIRIT OF THE ROCKS Entering the shared space of sauna. by Shea Petaja

~ On my dad’s side of the family, my great aunts and uncles spoke Finnish. It was their secret language among the 13 siblings whose parents emigrated from Finland to the Upper Peninsula. I considered it background noise and was never totally concerned with understanding it. We were allowed to know only a few words beyond our last name. The first, sauna, (pronounced sow-nah). The second, sisu (see-soo). Sisu is the psychological determination when faced with impossible odds. A sauna is the embodiment of sisu, as heat rises and the steam reaches your lungs. You breathe in and breathe out, withstanding the pressure but never escaping. Our small family lived in what we call “The Little House” right behind my grandparents’ house on the family farm. The first three years of my life, I took a sauna daily—it’s where the shower head was! My parents had a rubber tub on the floor for me. Looking back, that sounds almost barbaric, but I assure you, it’s nostalgic to me and common with Finnish families. My grandfather quit working for The Man (a.k.a. Chrysler in Detroit) to live in Traverse City. Dr. Arnold Sarya, a cousin, recruited them to help build the Glacier Dome on Barlow Street. The dome was the first indoor ice rink that also hosted concerts: Bob Seger, Styx, Johnny Cash, Rush. We are a family of hard workers and hockey players who find solitude in the sauna. Our motto, “First we work, then we play.” I can remember sitting with my uncles. “Pour more water on the rocks,” they’d command. If we complained? “Go to a lower bench.” If we couldn’t breathe, “Use a wet washcloth to cover your mouth.” We were never told to leave. We stayed until we relaxed into it. My great uncle F E B RUA RY 2 0 2 4

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Burt relaxed so much that he once fell asleep on the top bench only to awake on the floor. He limped for days. Dr. Sarya’s son, Danny (my third cousin), has kept the Finnish tradition alive by creating MI Sauna, a mobile sauna parked on the east arm of Grand Traverse Bay at the Traverse City State Park beach. A different kind of dome; a community nonetheless. He has visited Finland six times and spent three years researching saunas to create an authentic experience. He laughs, “Noah built the ark; I had to build the sauna.” Everyone is invited. You sit side-by-side on the basswood benches as the steam reaches a cleansing heat. Löyly, the spirit of the rocks, the life force that rises when cold water meets hot stone, consumes you and the lake outside invites you to take a plunge. Together you withstand and together you submerge yourself in the water. A baptism of sorts. If you find yourself facing impossible odds, or perhaps seeking community, I welcome you to sit with us.

COZY IN THE SEASON OF LIGHT When the winter winds swirl, hygge adds layers of joy and contentment. by Jacob Wheeler

~ The night the first snow arrives, we light the candles. Here in Northern Michigan, it often comes in late November or early December. The air outside is crisp and dry, and our noses—adept at recognizing the changes of seasons—tell us flurries are coming. Inside we close windows, switch on our Jøtul gas fireplace, cook a butternut squash soup and slather slices of homemade rye bread with creamy butter. My son, Leo, and I dig the traditional cuisine of the Vikings, so we add creamed herring. Sarah and I pour glasses of wine. We light candles and place them on our round dining room table; the flickers become new centers of gravity for our eyes and spirits. My daughter, Nina, reaches into the hutch and brings out the anglaspel

ornament: five small metal trees rotating over one tea candle. Or, if December is here, we light our advent candle to ceremonially burn one notch for each day of the month leading up to Christmas Eve. All this simple joy, all this coziness, is hygge, a concept central to Danish happiness—or Danish contentment, depending on who you ask in the country of my birth. It’s funny: Each time an international study pronounces Danes as the happiest people on earth, Danes conduct their own internal poll and conclude that we are happy because we hold modest expectations. We’re a small country of less than 6 million. We have cradle-to-grave social welfare. We each play a small role in our society. No need to “pull ourselves up by our bootstraps” and climb socio-economic classes. Happiness is rooted in contentment, sometimes as simple as a candle burning in a window, bracing against the cold darkness outside. Hygge (roughly pronounced “HOOgah”) is difficult to define. It’s that light, that comfort, that homemade food, that companionship, that pause in our frenetic lives. It’s all of those things, and it can be a hundred other things. I once interviewed a Danish police officer in his simple, undecorated office in an industrial building for a story about how his unit was combating drug trafficking in a working-class Copenhagen neighborhood. We sat on metal chairs and drank bland coffee from a machine. But after the conversation, he shook my hand and said, “Tak, det var hyggeligt.” Thanks, that was cozy. The definition of the word expands to fit our needs. Americans and the English boast a particular obsession with hygge, as though the concept satisfies something lacking in our materialistic Anglo cultures. Meik Wiking’s 2017 book The Little Book of Hygge: Danish Secrets to Happy Living quickly became a bestseller in Britain. In the United States, I sometimes learn of “hygge clubs” where people ostensibly get together to practice hygge. I chuckle to myself. For a Dane like me, that’s like gathering together to intentionally breathe oxygen every few seconds. It’s innate. In our dining room, the candle burns until bedtime. Before blowing it out, I look out the window and notice a white blanket of winter’s first snow.

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THE COLD NEVER BOTHERED ME, ANYWAY With a dose of friluftsliv, winter becomes a friendly playground.

Fiction, anyway, until I moved to the Empire area and actually met people whose favorite season is winter. It could be due to some of the Scandinavian roots in the area, but without a deep genealogical dive, let’s just say there is a shared Norwegian friluftsliv near and above the 45th Parallel that creeps into frozen bones and creates a spirit of delight in being alive that only adverse weather seems to imbue. One day you’re sledding at the Dune Climb, next thing you know you’re excited about the upcoming Polar Bear Dip when they cut a hole in South Bar Lake. Throw in a sauna and a run into West Bay and, well, you’ve been warned—feeling alive can be addictive. Thanks, Northern Michigan, I’m hooked, alive … and have finally figured out the right clothes, too.

by Ashlea Walter

When i moved to Northern Michigan almost twenty-five years ago, I had never seen people leaving their cars running in the store parking lot, and I had never heard of people really embracing the cold and snow of winter, either. It seems that most of us above the knuckle have heard the Midwest adage about the real solution to finally enjoying a long, cold Northern Michigan winter: no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing. It’s got to be more than that, though, I thought: the secret to thriving can’t just be not wearing jeans while skiing. It’s almost an annual rite of passage to endure a hard winter, alongside other people mildly complaining at the grocery store while waiting in line to buy a new ice scraper or bag of pet-safe salt for the sidewalk. In that same checkout line, you’ll hear someone offering to wax someone else’s skis and wondering excitedly about when Hickory or Nubs is going to open. Just more evidence of our region’s embrace of friluftsliv, a Norwegian concept that means “open-air living” and can be defined by a love of the outdoors that’s still imbued with coziness. Sure, in the below-the-knuckle village of Romeo, where I grew up, people around me reveled in the beauty of a fresh snow like a quieting blanket, or even an ice storm that left a glorious but deadly trail in its wake across every single tiny twig. Snow day! But looking forward to being cold again, really getting out in the white stuff up to your knees or gliding across a frozen lake with even more frozen toes, while somehow feeling cozy and joyous at the same time? A movie fantasy.

EMBRACING HUMP DAY Right in the midst of a busy week, lillördag offers an oasis of rest, relaxation and fun. by Jacob Wheeler

Wednesdays in stockholm made an impression on Kate Blondia. The 20-year-old Maple City native, who attends Loyola University in Chicago and works at the restaurant La Becásse when she’s home each summer, studied abroad in Sweden during her junior year of high school. She observed with curiosity how school would dismiss early on Wednesday afternoons and begin a bit later on Thursday mornings. Her host mother, Marta, worked long hours at a local hospital—particularly when the pandemic arrived in early 2020—but the Pajus family would always gather for dinner on Wednesday evenings, when the adults would drink wine, and together they would watch a movie. Swedes have long considered hump day in the middle of the week as lillördag, or “little Saturday.” Rather than pushing through to Friday, they break up the work week with a small celebration on Wednesday. “I noticed that on an individual level and societal level, [Swedes] work together and care for each other more than we tend to here,” Kate told me. The phrase det löser sig (it’ll work itself out) is something that I think about often because it exemplifies how Swedes think, especially when it comes to lillördag. “Sure, maybe there are things to get done on a Wednesday night for the next work day, but a break and a time to catch up and check in on friends, family and yourself is just as important.” Cara McDonald is executive editor of Traverse Northern Michigan magazine. Shea Petaja is a Traverse City–based writer, speaker and life coach. Ashlea Walter is an artist and writer who owns Pinkie Finger Press. Jacob Wheeler is an indie-journalist who publishes the Glen Arbor Sun. F E B RUA RY 2 0 2 4

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Into the Quiet by Carly Simpson

on’t let go,” I repeat to myself, gripping the icy railing of the rolling ferry. Winter Storm Olive is raging as we cross the Straits of Mackinac, its path extending 1,600 miles, wreaking havoc from Montana to Maine with heavy snows and freezing rain. More than 1,000 flights have been canceled. In Michigan alone, 700,000 homes and businesses are without power. The 150-ton steel-hulled Huron is the only ferry that makes the trip between Mackinac Island and the St. Ignace mainland in winter—when the ice allows. Islanders depend on it to bring supphotos by Allison Jarrell Acosta plies over, as do commuting workers who only have a few precious months during the off season to complete construction projects and repairs at shops and hotels. Her nickname, “Mighty Huron,” is well earned. I’m depending on her, too, to get me across. On this February day, the temperature hovers around 17 degrees. With the wind chill, it feels a heck of a lot colder. Visibility is low. An endless expanse of white engulfs the Huron as she battles 30-mph gusts shrieking across stretches of ice. As we get farther out, the chunks of ice start to recede, giving way to churning slate-gray waves. F E B RUA RY 2 0 2 4

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No wonder I’m laughing uncontrollably, my expression varying from glee to fear and back again. I probably look like a maniac—but fortunately, no one else is outside on the deck to see me. The tradespeople—aka the “Carhartt Army”—on this morning’s trip have made the crossing countless times before. They’re seasoned pros seated in the heated cabin. But the windows are frosted, and I want to see the island the moment she comes into view. I’ve missed her. I’ve taken ferries to Mackinac Island dozens of times, but only ever during the rush of summer. In college, I worked at Fort Mackinac and The Island Bookstore. I crisscrossed the island’s interior on my days off, hiking trails with names like Tranquil Bluff, Trillium and Morning Snack (don’t mind if I do). I biked M-185 at night, a flashlight strapped to my handlebars. I ducked under swooping bats that found their way into employee housing hallways. I watched the Perseids flash above Arch Rock. I made friends, crushed on dockporters and, like many, fell deeply in love with this place. This trip is a little gift to myself. I’ve never seen Mackinac tucked in for winter, when downtown businesses are closed up tight against relentless winds and the throngs of summer visitors, and bikes and carriage tours give way to a tight-knit group of residents. Parents pick their children up after school via snowmobile. The community theater company puts on productions like Little Shop of Horrors, and Saturday night karaoke fills every seat at the Kingston—hotel employees preparing for the season to come; a table of firefighters who spent the day training at Mission Point Resort; locals who live year-round on Mackinac and islanders whose family ties go back for generations. The quiet transforms this familiar place into something entirely new. I want to walk my favorite trails now hidden under thick blankets of snow. I want to follow the headlights of a snowmobile to the glow of a bar. I want to watch the sun rise over sparkling ice on Lake Huron. I want to experience the hush of Mackinac. Carly Simpson is managing editor of Traverse Northern Michigan and produces MyNorth’s popular newsletter, The Daily Splash. Subscribe at MyNorth.com/newsletter.

Clockwise: More than 500 horses are on Mackinac Island during the peak summer season. After Labor Day, most are taken by ferry to the mainland and then head north to farms in Pickford. During the off-season (November through March), 16 to 18 horses generally remain on the island. They make up the dray teams used for transporting freight as well as taxis for residents and visitors; My favorite view: Arriving at the dock; Downtown and the ferry docks peek through the snowy haze from my blufftop view on Huron Road; Lexie Stypelkoski, Mission Point Resort’s PR and Marketing Coordinator by day, karaoke all-star by night. Seriously, go hang out at Kingston Kitchen.

Allison Jarrell Acosta is associate editor of Traverse Northern Michigan and an avid outdoor photographer. allison@mynorth.com 20 T R A V E R S E N O R T H E R N M I C H I G A N

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View videos from my Mackinac getaway—the ferry trip, quiet woods, an epic sunrise and the plane ride back: link.mynorth.com/mackinachush

22 T R A V E R S E N O R T H E R N M I C H I G A N

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Huron Road curves past East Bluff ’s stately Victorian cottages buttoned up for winter. From downtown, you can walk to Marquette Park (the northeast corner behind the art museum) and take a staircase called Crow’s Nest Trail up to Huron Road.

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Below: Huron Road will take you to Arch Rock (the iconic view is even prettier in winter), but the walk was the real stunner, with slants of light peeking through snow-covered trees. Next page: The ice shifts by the hour on the Straits, meaning your travel plans can, too. The morning of my departure, the ferry couldn’t get through, so I got to fly back to St. Ignace. The views from above were a highlight of the trip; The most magnificent sunrise of my life. Yes, those colors are real. It was like fire meeting ice, with a rolling fog coming off the lake from the sun’s warmth (warmth being a relative term, it was a bitterly cold morning). This photo was taken near Mission Point Resort. The hotel is closed in winter, but its front lawn is the best place to experience an island sunrise.

WHAT’S OPEN IN WINTER A handful of hardy businesses remain open for travelers year-round. LODGING ABOVE MACKINAC CONDOS / 906.847.3614 PONTIAC LODGE / 906.847.3364 VILLAGE INN SUITES / 906.847.8077

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northern home & cottage F E B R U A R Y / M A R C H 2 02 4

FOR THE WAY YOU L I VE UP NORTH

HUNTING CABIN CHARMER COMFORT MEETS ELEGANCE IN A NORTHWOODS MAKEOVER

LOFT LIVING

A PETOSKEY ROOFTOP HAVEN

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LIVE YOUR DREAM

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northern home & cottage

Our mission is to help you “feel @ home”!

Fresh. Modern. Cottage. Fresh. Modern. Cottage.

A MyNorth Media Publication Cara McDonald

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Reprints available. Please call 231.941.8174. Northern Home & Cottage is published as a supplement to Traverse Northern Michigan magazine. 415 Cass St., Traverse City, MI 49684. All rights reserved. Copyright 2024, Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan.

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inside FEBRUARY/MARCH 2024

northern home & cottage editor's note

The Many Faces of Northern Michigan

e feature a bounty of some of the most beautiful lake homes in the world in this magazine—chock-full of endless azure views out their windows. Oh yes, we love them as much as you do! But our gorgeous water is just one face of Northern Michigan. Anyone who understands Up North knows that our small towns and forests are just as important to our identity as our lakes. This issue shows off those sides of us with a handsome renovated loft high above downtown Petoskey and a charming hunting cabin tucked into a quiet wooded property. Spaces like these were made for cozying up—maybe with this magazine in hand and, as the last line in our story “Cabin Style, Elevated” suggests: “a shot of fine bourbon after a cold tramp in the woods.”

32 31 / EDITOR'S NOTE 32 / CABIN STYLE, ELEVATED Designer Erica Harrison finds the story and drama in a homely old cabin in the woods.

44 / LOFTY AMBITION A young surgeon and his fiancée live their dream life in a loft above downtown Petoskey.

COVER PHOTO BY NICK JOHNSON PHOTOGRAPHY

Click on Live Here > Northern Home

photos: (top) Nick Johnson Photography; (bottom) Jacqueline Southby

Elizabeth (Lissa) Edwards is senior editor of Northern Home & Cottage. Lissa@traversemagazine.com

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house and home

DESIGNER ERICA HARRISON FINDS THE STORY AND DRAMA IN A TIRED MID-CENTURY BUILDING. By E L I Z A B E T H E DWA R D S Photos by NICK JOHNSON PHOTOGRAPHY

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he owners of an old cabin on a private lake in Northern Michigan had coaxed it about as far as it could go when they hired Erica Harrison, principal designer at the Detroit-based firm Hudson & Sterling, to give it a top-to-bottom overhaul. What had begun as a country schoolhouse in the 1950s had been added on to in the 1970s. Though the building itself was structurally sound, it had sunk

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as much as 11 inches into the ground and needed new wiring, plumbing and septic. It also possessed the shag carpeting, linoleum and mundane appliances true to the era in which it was built. But Harrison has a sixth sense for finding buried beauty and, in this case, the beauty she saw was in the wood. “These old cabins were always built with the most amazing wood,” she says. The

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HARRISON HAS A SIXTH SENSE FOR FINDING

BURIED BEAUTY.

aged pine paneling on the interior was in such good shape, in fact, that Harrison determined it wouldn’t need more than a coat of tungsten oil to bring out its beautiful cordovan and red hues. And that was enough to make the designer see the potential drama in the old cabin. Dramatic and storied styles are firmly in her wheelhouse—Harrison spent a decade staging rooms for Ralph Lauren. “I was basically his storyteller,” she explains. “I would create a world that he would walk into, where his imagination could create a design—of Chamonix in 1920, or it might be the Sedona of the 1940s or Santa Fe, 1910. I would create the aesthetic, the mood and the feeling of the time

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Previous spread: “It might be my Ralph Lauren background, but I just love green and hunting cabins,” Harrison says. “Using green [indoors] really lets the greens outside the window shine, as well as the crystal-clear blue water from the lake. That’s why we chose not to put curtains on the living room windows.” Harrison adds that green offers a historical feel to the building; she chose Sherwin-Williams Basil for the walls and Sherwin-Williams Iron Ore for the trim. Note the coffee table retrofit from an antique pheasant cage. The map on the wall is of the estate where the cabin is located. Harrison found it in the back of a garage on the property and had it cleaned up. Left: The old kitchen was gutted and reconfigured. Harrison painted and replaced the hardware on the Ikea cabinetry which completely covers the refrigerator. The stove is by ILVE, an appliance line she likes for its quality, style and affordability. The bench under the window is made from a live-edge slab of wood from Pond Hill Farm in Harbor Springs. Below: An antler chandelier hangs over an antique oak table original to the home—Harrison found it with a plastic cover glued to it and had it refinished. The chairs are made from hickory and covered in black-and-white gingham that echoes the Americana feel Harrison wanted in the cabin—a sentiment she credits to her years working with Ralph Lauren. “His style is always a play of history,” she says, describing the blend of ginghams and Native motifs, fine velvets and birdand-floral fabrics she used in the home. The flooring is ceramic river stone that Harrison chose for its organic looks as well as its durability.

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Clockwise from left: The curtain behind the vintage rattan bed disguises an old window that actually looks at the garage wall. “I wanted each room to feel different and this was my soft room—a feminine room in the hunting cabin,” says Harrison. Harrison had the crunchy, gauzy linen curtains made, and hung them at the top of the walls to make the ceiling appear higher. The stools help young children get into the beds, which are purposely high to feel like bunks. The vertical strips of wood on the wall framing the sconces are where the old school blackboard was once mounted. Harrison left them to preserve the building’s story. The headboard is made from a wooden slab from Pond Hill Farm. The lighting is by Lumens, and Harrison found the shades at Woodland Creek Modern in Traverse City.

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Left: “We moved a lot of plumbing in the two bathrooms,” Harrison says. “Everything was just kind of wonky.” Green Fireclay wall tiles, an old-fashioned pennytile floor, brass pendants by Lightology and Waterworks hardware combine to make the bathroom feel timeless. Below: Harrison had the bathroom vanity made from an antique dresser. The mirror is by Perigold, tile from Fireclay, lighting by Visual Comfort and sink hardware from Waterworks.

period using lighting, furniture, clothing, books and even the plaster on the walls to create the concept.” So, after addressing all the building’s structural, electrical and plumbing needs, Harrison turned her focus to weaving a story from color, fabric, tiles, furniture and myriad other details. The story Harrison chose for this structure was a rusticbut-sophisticated Northwoods hunting cabin. “The [original] aesthetics of this little cabin were just so bad that I really wanted to make it feel elevated and elegant; less like a country home, more lodge-like. Both styles are elegant, both are beautiful—I just wanted to give this cabin that Up North feeling of being very cozy,” she says. Tiny as it is, the cabin exemplifies Harrison’s signature style—a style that is fundamentally more about ambiance than decor. With its carefully curated details, the home manages to feel as warm and rustic as a shot of fine bourbon after a cold tramp in the woods. NHC • MYNORTH.COM

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PA I D C O N T E N T

Polishing the Process 5 ways using a design-build firm makes for a seamless home design and building experience. by Lisa Blake

ichigan natives Justin Roberts and Matt Chaperon, owners of premier designbuild company Black Birch Design + Build, have something essential in common. Both grew up with fathers who were carpenters, learning the value of quality craftsmanship and sponging up knowledge about the residential construction market before heading off to college—Roberts to study at Lawrence Technological University’s College of Architecture and Design and Chaperon earning an engineering degree from Michigan State. The dream team collided post-college to launch Black Birch Design + Build in 2017, gravitating to Roberts’ East Jordan hometown for its deep pool of building potential and progressive architectural tendencies. Six years later, Black Birch Design + Build sings with Chaperon’s focus on the latest in building science and Roberts’ eye for innovative architecture. With five employees under one roof, the firm is able to fill a local void by providing one-and-done design-build services. This one-stop-shop arrangement offers a wealth of benefits:

1. One office means one phone call. “People like the one phone call aspect,” Chaperon says. “We make it easy on clients, especially since a lot of them are located downstate or out of state. It’s a turnkey experience.” Clients get the best of both worlds—the architect and the builder in one room, collaborating and working together, hollering across the office to get questions immediately resolved, with no waiting around for the two to connect. 2. They truly do it all. Black Birch Design + Build’s in-house team provides specialty services like land selection assistance, site analysis, permitting, construction, zoning research and full architectural services including 3D design, interiors, material selection and landscaping. For budget-conscious clients, the firm also offers value engineering—an approach that leans on organization and systems to reduce costs. 3. There’s a thumb on the tech pulse. Building science is always evolving. Black Birch Design + Build is constantly meet-

ing with product representatives, suppliers and industry innovators to stay ahead of the curve. The team is no stranger to weaving in amenities like saunas, cold plunges, wine rooms, steam showers and golf simulators, and can add on advanced electrical systems, which allow for putting lights, showers, thermostats and more on a mobile app. 4. Your design needs are totally covered. Encompassing everything from architecture to interior and landscape design, the team supplies homeowners with sketches, photo-realistic renderings and idea building while keeping a close eye on real-time material costs. The designbuild squad works cohesively to design with budgets and current market pricing in mind—an in-house advantage that helps reduce budget overages and construction-phase cost overruns. 5. Projects move along smoothly. Once the design team has completed their work, the construction team is ready to mobilize, starting with permit-

ting, compiling a budget, value engineering and scheduling. When the project is ready to begin, Black Birch’s efficient building techniques and communication process helps the jobs start and finish with full transparency and ease. It’s smooth sailing, with weekly progress reports delivered through photos, videos and even drone footage. “Northern Michigan is a special place for those who really know it,” Roberts says. “In years to come, I truly believe its natural beauty and landscapes built to mirror that beauty will be common knowledge to most of America. I also believe that great architecture exists and is only getting better up here. I’m honored if we’re able to be a small part of this renaissance.”

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LOFTY AMBITION

FRESH OUT OF MEDICAL TRAINING, A YOUNG SURGEON TAKES THE ROAD LESS TRAVELED TO NORTHERN MICHIGAN AND A RENOVATED LOFT ABOVE PETOSKEY’S HISTORIC DOWNTOWN. By E L I Z A B E T H E DWA R D S Photos by JACQUELINE SOUTHBY

oung, bright and skilled, neurosurgeon Dr. Justin Thomas could have landed anywhere after completing his residency. But Thomas, who’d summered with his family on the Leelanau Peninsula, had long had his eye on a year-round life Up North. “I tailored my last few years of residency to be able to manage what I had expected would be some of the neurosurgical conditions up here in Northern Michigan,” he says. When Thomas met physical therapist Jenna McTevia, now his fiancée, the stars aligned. Having spent summers in Harbor Springs since childhood, McTevia was equally onboard with heading north to create a life— so Thomas accepted a position at McLaren Northern Michigan hospital. In the spring of 2021, the couple found a downtown Petoskey condo for sale on Zillow.

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But by the time they could get away for a couple of days to see it, the property had been pulled from the market. As luck would have it, Justin had friends in the area who knew the owner, Petoskey businessman Dave Meikle, and put the couple in touch with him. Meikle had pulled the building from the market to create a timeout to find the right buyers to live over the two trendy restaurant bars— Tap30 Pourhouse and Pour Kitchen and Bar—that he’d created on the ground floor of the circa 1900 building. Meikle had also outfitted the building’s second floor with office space and the third floor with two condos, units he envisioned to have a SoHo loft feel. Above them, on the fourth floor, he created a spectacular rooftop deck. After ascertaining that the couple would be a perfect fit for the building, Meikle agreed to give them a

Previous spread: With views that stretch from Little Traverse Bay to downtown, the rooftop deck is the pièce de résistance of the loft. Right: The couple’s dogs, Sport [shown here] and Buddy, enjoy their stylish hangout from Restoration Hardware housed in the corner of the great room. Below: Avid cyclists, the couple decided to keep their bikes in the living room. The brick wall is original to the early 20th-century building. Justin’s mom, interior designer Molly Thomas, advised them to have all the doors and trim painted an oil-based black. “She said the shine from oilbased paint really stands out. Acrylic or any other type of paint doesn’t show up as well,” Justin explains.

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private tour of the 2,000-square-foot, three-bedroom, two-bath condo that they’d seen on Zillow. As Thomas recalls, it took the couple about three minutes to decide the unit was exactly where they wanted to launch their new life. “The interior had a lot of existing architectural elements, and we saw a timeless space that absolutely captivated us,” he says. Indeed, the condo had an urbanloft vibe—exposed century-old brick walls and modern HVAC, high ceilings, original maple floors and handsome nine-foot interior doors—but it had so much more, too, not the least of which is a panoramic view of downtown Petoskey and Little Traverse Bay from the great room window. The couple could easily envision the space as the perfect backdrop for their taste in art and clean-lined furnishings.

Top: The perfectly laid out floorplan has the dining area tucked between the bar and the open kitchen. The chairs are from Pottery Barn and the chandelier is from Restoration Hardware. Bottom: The plants and print over the bar sink are all from Flora Bae in Petoskey.

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Above: The couple had the island base painted black to match the trim and doors in the rest of the loft.

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Enter Thomas’ mom, interior designer Molly Thomas, who walked in and said, “This is the type of place where you could pull off white walls and a lot of black,” Thomas recalls. “She told us to paint all the trim, every door and even the kitchen island black, then add a lot of brown accents.” The finished product is striking—a loft aesthetic with a Northern twist. The couple has gone on to decorate it carefully with Peter Lik photos, prints and artwork from their travels in Africa, where Justin did missionary neurosurgeon work, as well as nautical maps and a plethora of plants, courtesy of the local boutique Flora Bae Home. Most important, their home is part and parcel with downtown Petoskey’s vibrant urban/small-town lifestyle—one that the couple finds exhilarating. They can be on the bay in minutes, watch everything from sunsets to holiday parades from their rooftop deck and enjoy downtown Petoskey’s bars and eateries on foot—beginning with Tap30 and Pour Kitchen right downstairs. “We are so fortunate to wake up every day with the feel of being in a city but living and working in one of the most beautiful small towns in North America,” Thomas says.

Above: The plant vignettes throughout the loft are all by Natalie Bae Lauzon, owner of the boutique Flora Bae in downtown Petoskey. The wall photograph is by Peter Lik. Below: The couple included the plants and the Peter Lik photograph of Lake Superior in their bedroom decor so that they would “feel excited about waking up and enjoying the day,” Thomas says. More inspiration? The bay view. Opposite: The two spare bedrooms are connected by a Jack-and-Jill bath. The couple collected the art in Africa where Thomas has done missionary medical work.

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T he Cu l i nary North

photo by Dave Weidner

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“

… smoky scents and the sizzle of a fiery wok announce that something entirely new has arrived … —ANNA FALLER

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T he Cu l i nary North Served

COMING IN HOT by ANNA FALLER

Since opening last January, Crocodile Palace’s spice-steeped Sichuan menu has turned up the heat on local cuisine.

photo by Dave Weidner

n a tiny traverse city storefront behind a bold turquoise awning, smoky scents and the sizzle of a fiery wok announce that something entirely new has arrived on the corner of Cochlin Street and US-31. Tucked behind an unassuming butcherblock pick-up counter in a kitchen no bigger than a hallway, accomplished chefs and brothers Patrick and Michael Evans work alongside partner Ryan Corbin, sautéing spices and smoking tofu over applewood chips. “We’re this small team of talented people working in a shoebox-sized kitchen. It’s a unique location,” Patrick notes. The dining concept at Crocodile Palace is unique, too: its flavor-packed dishes are available only via takeout (there are a handful of chairs inside for guests while they wait). The menu, which Patrick explains was built around the team’s shared love of Sichuan cuisine, is largely driven by seasonal produce, with individual plates and recipes trading places every few months. The mainstay Dan Dan Noodles, though, have been a fan favorite from the jump. (In fact, they’ve sold more than 2,000 bowls.) This spicy noodle dish is packed with housepickled veggies, ground pork or tofu and an aromatic sauce topped off with a shot of tingly chili oil.

Patrick’s pick is the Gong Bao Chicken, which derives its signature heat profile from bloomed dried chiles and Sichuan peppercorns, balanced with cooling peanut and celery. “I’m really excited about that right now, because it’s a dish you can’t get anywhere else,” he says. For Michael, the corned beef brisket with chili oil, sesame, cilantro, onion, crispy shallots and peanuts is a must, as is the applewood-smoked tofu with celery—an unexpectedly tasty combo. As for recent additions, Patrick highlights the scratchmade pork rinds, as well as an off-menu entrée for larger parties (call for the delicious lowdown). There’s even talk of a future delivery system. “We’re constantly trying to find ways to engage our guests and make them happy,” Patrick says. —

Crocodile Palace 124 Cochlin St., Traverse City crocodilepalace.com

Anna Faller is a Traverse City-based freelance writer and interviewer with a passion for good books, great food and Michigan travel. annacfaller@gmail.com

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