Traverse Northern Michigan, May 2024

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LIVING THE DREAM UP NORTH One family’s amazing journey

PLUS:

The Ancient Art of Birchbark Canoes Spring’s Hidden Woodland Wonders INSIDE

Health & Wellness + Vacation Guide MAY 2O24

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Building and Renovating Northern Michigan’s Finest Residences

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features 05.24

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DISCOVER MORE ABOUT UP NORTH PEOPLE, PLACES, FOOD AND EVENTS.

HOPE SPRINGS EPHEMERAL

When the Northwoods begin to thaw, whimsical creatures like fairy shrimp and spotted salamanders quietly come to life. It’s on us to keep it that way. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY ALLISON JARRELL ACOSTA

Susanna Glass, land protection specialist with HeadWaters Land Conservancy, leads a day of vernal pool monitoring in Pigeon River Country State Forest.

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THE POWER OF A TREE

In St. Ignace, canoe maker and artist Ron Paquin keeps Native culture alive. BY MEAGAN FRANCIS / PHOTOS BY TIM HUSSEY

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TA K I N G F L I G H T

My family had a dream for togetherness and community here in Northern Michigan. We just didn’t know it would take a lifechanging journey to get there. BY NICOLE WHITE / PHOTOS BY ANDY WAKEMAN

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H E A LT H & W E L L N E S S

“Blue Zone” living in Northern Michigan; Mindful movement for expecting moms.

photo by Allison Jarrell Acosta

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Enchanting Experiences

62 DEPART M E N TS 9 | EDITOR'S NOTE 11 | UP NORTH

World-Class Wines

Fam-friendly bike adventures, plus we ask Farmer Andrea about easy plants to start from seed.

17 | OUTDOORS

LET THE VIEW WELCOME YOU.

Peep colorful warblers and even pelicans at these under-the-radar U.P. birding destinations.

· DAILY WINE TASTING

57 | CULINARY NORTH

· SPECIAL EVENTS & CLASSES

A hydroponic farm with beefy, beautiful tomatoes; plus, Bubbie’s Bagels has seriously good ramp cream cheese.

· CELEBRATIONS & WEDDINGS

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The buzz around town.

62 | LAST CALL photo by Dave Weidner (top)

Old Mission Peninsula, Traverse City

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The Aviation, a preprohibition classic, is especially good-looking in spring.

64 | LOVE OF THE LAND It’s nesting season for the beloved common loon.

ON THE COVER Nicole and Bo White, owners of Dune Bird Winery photo by Andy Wakeman

Follow Us On Social Media facebook.com/mynorthmedia instagram.com/mynorthmedia pinterest.com/mynorthmedia

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Traverse

NORTHERN

MICHIGAN A MyNorth Media Publication

Vol. 43 | No. 12

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Cara McDonald

MANAGING EDITOR

Carly Simpson Allison Jarrell Acosta

ASSOCIATE EDITOR CULINARY COLUMNIST

Stacey Brugeman

PROOFREADER

Caroline Dahlquist

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

Elizabeth Edwards Meagan Francis

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS

DIRECTOR OF SALES ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

MARKETING DIRECTOR MARKETING COORDINATOR

OFFICE MANAGER

WHEN OUR CLIENTS SPEAK, WE LISTEN. It’s a simple but effective way of helping people reach their financial goals - and it’s a way of doing business that Raymond James has pioneered for more than 50 years. Make your voice count. Partner with one of our financial advisors and get guidance that’s in tune with your life. LIFE WELL PLANNED. Jeff K. Pasche, CFA® Senior Vice President, Investments Traverse City Branch Manager Susan G. Carlyon, WMS Senior Vice President, Investments ® Wealth Management Specialist James Spencer, ChFC®, AAMS® Financial Advisor

Jeff K. Pasche, CFA® Jim Stoops, AWMA , CRPC® Tim Hussey Senior Vice First President, Investments Vice President, Investments Theresa Burau-Baehr Traverse City Complex Manager Rachel Watson Dennis J. Brodeur Julie Parker Vice President, Investments Mike Alfaro Wealth Management Specialist Ann Gatrell Julie James Trevis E. Gillow Meg Lau Vice President, Investments Erin Lutke Wealth Management Specialist Ashlyn Korienek Susan Carlyon Kayla Kennedy First Vice President, Investments Wealth Management Specialist Keith Carlyon Senior Vice President, Investments

Jennifer Youker, CFP®, CRPC® Financial Advisor Maggie Beeler, AAMS®, CRPC® Branch Operations Manager Courtney C. Jackson Complex Business Coordinator Susan Stepka Client Paul ServiceM. Associate Bonaccini

ViceCole President, T Blades Investments FinancialAsset AdvisoryManagement Trainee Accredited Specialist Tyne Hyslop Financial Advisor Jennifer Youker, CFP®, CRPC® Financial Advisor Eric H. Palo Financial Advisor James Spencer, ChFC, AAMS Associate Vice President, Investments Robert Fenton Financial Advisor

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Traverse Northern Michigan, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly by Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan, 1 Broadcast Way, Cadillac, MI 49601. Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse Northern Michigan, 415 Cass St., Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $39.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $6.50. All rights reserved. Copyright 2024, Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

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hat with our basically snow-less winter, I’ve been face to face with my uncovered yard for a long time this spring, and it isn’t pretty. I have a small house with a large-ish corner lot rimmed by a weathered picket fence. The fence line holds lilacs, an ornamental cherry tree and a multitude of lawn-care sins, including leggy grass, gobs of wet fall leaves and occasional poop from the dog, who likes to do his business away from where he plays with his ball. Compared with the tidy Victorian homes and prim little lots on my block, it looks like someone forgot their fall chore list. And spring’s, too. This is, in part, deliberate. I’m equal parts unmotivated, leaving habitat for bugs, and not a fan of leaf blowers. I left the sunflowers on their hollow, brittle stalks, the hollyhocks with their seed pods rattling in the wind, the Concord grapes to become raisins. I know there are pale green milkweed shoots just beneath the surface of my flowerbed, under a blanket of dead zinnias. It’s hard to shake the urge to “clean up,” but I’m okay with the downtime. In nature, dormancy is protective. Bumblebees do it to resist freezing. Bats enter torpor to save energy. Box turtles’ hearts slow until they are barely alive so they can withstand the many months without insects and fruit. And in our lush Northwoods, critters go dormant to survive not just the cold, but also the drying out of their habitat—your salamanders, wood frogs, turtles and more. Another way of describing the dormancy to survive dryness is “spelled estivation.” In spring, the rain and snowmelt activate the gray and seemingly lifeless woods, creating pocket pools that feed the upswelling of life blooming after winter’s bitter cold. Associate Editor Allison Jarrell Acosta has been championing these teacolored, soupy ponds for more than a year as she’s researched and written the story “Hope Springs Ephemeral.” Most of us see them as little more than giant puddles, thick with detritus. They are vanishing and precious, she reports, for all that they harbor in their shallows and the habitat they provide. But through Allison’s eyes, we also see them as pools of wonder, home to tiny and miraculous creatures most of us will never take the time to see. Dormancy is an essential part of the sleight of hand that makes spring’s vault into summer so magical, moving from one spell to the next, figurative and literal. It calls us to look for the not yet visible and hold faith that it will end with a wake-up call—for seeds to germinate, stiff limbs to stir, life to begin again. When I look at my borrowed corner of the world this way, I see the magic in the mess. I’m not sure if my neighbors will feel the same, but that’s okay. There’s so much beyond my control, anyway. Wonderfully so.

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photo by Allison Jarrell Acosta

Editor’s Note

Cara McDonald, Executive Editor cara@mynorth.com

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YOUR SUMMER STARTS HERE.

If your idea of the perfect vacation is sugar-sand beaches, clear blue waters along 28 miles of Lake Michigan shoreline, outdoor adventures, climbing to the top of historic lighthouses, or exploring a charming downtown, Ludington is your destination for Pure Michigan fun. Ludington's unspoiled natural resources offers a quintessential “Up North” experience all within easy reach located at the intersection of U.S. 31 and U.S. 10. No matter what you're seeking - a beach or outdoor adventure, a peaceful getaway, or just a community of friendly faces you can find it in Pure Ludington.

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Up North. PEOPLE | NATURE | ARTS | NOSTALGIA | BUZZ | WISDOM | CURIOSITIES

PEDAL ON by ELIZABETH EDWARDS

3 family-friendly bike adventures for spring. The 26-mile Little Traverse Wheelway that stretches from Charlevoix to Harbor Springs is sprinkled with delightful peeks and views of Lake Michigan, surprise beaches and Victorian cottages. This lengthy trail is best taken in bites—one of our favorites being the approximately 7-mile roundtrip between Bayfront Park near downtown Petoskey to lunch at Petoskey Brewing on M-119. Watch for a metal sculpture of a bicycle and two arches that bear signs reading “No Teaming or Driving.” The signs prohibiting horses and horse-drawn vehicles are replicas of originals that stood along this stretch of the LTW in the 1880s and ’90s—making this part of the Wheelway one of the oldest bike paths in the country. For a deeper dive, pop into the Little Traverse History Museum located a mile up the trail in Bayfront Park.

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Little Traverse Wheelway

photo by Tess Crowley

The Keweenaw Peninsula is rugged, remote, raw. The mountain biking scene here is equally epic, but you’ll also find some fantastic beginner trails, too. The Keweenaw Mountain Lodge sits at the top of the Copper Harbor Trail System and offers public access to multiple trailheads. Chipmunk Run, Moose on the Loose and Little Loon are all excellent for wee ones. Lodge staff at the outdoor activity center will set you up with a rental bike and they also offer free skills rides on Saturdays at 10 a.m. Take a leisurely spin around Traverse City’s Boardman Lake this summer for a lollygagging good time. The four-mile Boardman Lake Loop has an extended boardwalk over the water with bump-out sections where you’ll want to stop and look for fish. End your ride at family-friendly Right Brain Brewery with its impressive lineup of more than 30 vintage pinball machines and arcade games. Order dill pickle popcorn and a soda, then play the silver ball.

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Up North

HOME & GARDEN

A S K FA R M E R A N D R E A

START A NORTHERN GARDEN FROM SEEDS

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hether you’re planning a serious garden project or just have spring fever and the itch to sow a few seeds and see what happens, May in Northern Michigan is definitely the time to roll up your sleeves, turn over the soil and get planting. Farmer Andrea Bushre encourages gardeners to plant, plant, plant in May. Here, she shares how to use seeds to reap an affordable, easy and (almost) foolproof harvest: Why Plant Seed?

It’s super cost effective. Seedlings and transplants let you get a jump on our short season, but at $3 to $6 a plant, the expenses can add up fast. On the other hand, a packet of seed runs from $1.99 to $3 and can fill a garden bed. Variety. Planting from seed lets you choose from a far broader array of fruits and vegetables, including heirlooms, organics or hard-to-find options that your local nursery might not carry simply due to limited space or demand. Some plants prefer to be started from seed. Not every plant benefits from a spring start under grow lights or in a windowsill; anything from the fast-growing cucurbit family can be planted from seed now, including zucchini, winter squash, pumpkin, watermelon, cantaloupe and cucumber. Easy Plants to Try from Seed

It’s fun to ponder all the seeds when faced with those racks at the hardware store and garden center, but not all are easy

photo by Leah Renee Photography

EVENTS UP NORTH THU / 2 Gopherwood Concerts in Cadillac presents The Mammals in a special house concert; this Americana quintets’ songs range from soulfully harmonized indie-folk ballads to zealous fiddle- and banjo-driven foot stompers. Tickets are limited, and attendees are encouraged to bring their own beverages and snacks. MyNorthTickets.com

starts in the garden. There are, however, plenty of options that are cold-weather friendly and a cinch to start from seed: • Greens, like lettuce, spinach, arugula and mustard. Keep your greens fenced; rabbits, deer and insects love them. • Radishes and turnips. Don’t wait until these are super large to harvest, or you’ll get woody, hollow and “pithy” crops that have a spicy or soapy taste. • Cucumbers and zucchini. These are super easy to germinate, but insects like to hit young seedlings hard, so keep an eye out for pests. • Carrots, scallions and onions. A little more challenging to, but really satisfying when they take off. Protecting Seedlings from Fickle Weather

May is tricky; we’re still susceptible to the odd frost at night, so be prepared to cover your garden with a frost blanket (sheets, towels or cardboard)—just be careful not to crush any seedlings. Cover plants late in the day to trap warm air underneath, and remove each day so moisture doesn’t build up. Andrea Bushre is the director of NanBop Farm in Cadillac— a biodiverse farm operation nestled in the acreage surrounding the 9&10 News station. nanbopfarm.com

4 can’t-miss concerts

FRI / 3 Garage rock troubadour Dave Boutette and former Radio City Rockette Kristi Lynn Davis make a bit of an odd musical pairing, but Dave’s songwriting and Kristi’s harmonies have delighted audiences across the Midwest. Enjoy American roots, folk, blues and more as this eclectic duo takes the stage at The Pine Performance Center in Curtis. MyNorthTickets.com

SAT / 4 The Earthwork Artist Tour returns to The Alluvion in Traverse City for another magical gathering of 20 artists on one stage. Founded by Seth Bernard in 2001, Earthwork Music’s aim is to unite Michigan musicians, support cultural and environmental causes, and build on the rich, vibrant legacy local musicians have cultivated over the years. MyNorthTickets.com

FRI / 24 The next British Invasion has hit Mackinac Island— The McCartney Years will perform live at Mission Point Resort this spring and summer, showcasing an unforgettable musical journey through the life of Paul McCartney and his timeless hits. Shows continue through Sept. 1. MyNorthTickets.com

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Outdoors Nelson recommends two popular birding trails—the Shore to Shore Birding Trail (which spans Sault Ste. Marie, Paradise, Seney, Newberry, Naubinway and a bit of St. Ignace) and the North Huron Birding Trail (covering St. Ignace along the Lake Huron shoreline all the way to Drummond Island and up into Pickford). Here are three of his favorite underthe-radar spots along those trails: Bridge View Park & Pte. Le Barbe, St. Ignace

Kirtland's warbler

GREAT MIGRATIONS

Situated along Boulevard Drive (west of the bridge), this spot is where the Mackinac Straits Raptor Watch counts hawks, and you can also see tons of waterfowl congregate along the protected shoreline. Green Island (straight out from the bay) is home to massive gull colonies. And warblers are known to coat the trees here in May. Munuscong State Forest, Pickford

This massive, marshy wetland has had a system of dikes in place since the ’80s to restore habitat. “You can walk out about a Peep colorful warblers, majestic hawks and countless other mile along those and see all sorts of magspecies at these under-the-radar U.P. birding destinations. nificent waterfowl; it’s one of the best waterfowl viewing locations in mid-April through mid-May,” Nelson says. Watch s elliot nelson describes it, spring birding for an array of ducks, some “secretive” marsh species like in the U.P. is sort of a mad rush. But in the black terns and rails, and a bird that’s relatively new to the best way. region: the American white pelican, which is experiencing a “It’s really one of the most wonderful times population spurt and expanding its migratory range. of year to go birding, because you get the most birds coming through in the shortest period of time,” says Bay Mills Indian Community, Chippewa County Nelson, an avid birder and extension educator at Michigan Nestled along Waiska Bay, Nelson recommends setting up a Sea Grant. “There are millions and millions of birds migrat- scope at the Point Iroquois Lighthouse to watch red-necked ing overhead every night.” grebes and other waterfowl. Stroll the dune boardwalk in Nelson says the spring birding rush comes from a high mid-May to peep pipits and longspurs, maybe some late concentration of species flying to their breeding grounds. The snow buntings in April. Head to Monocle Lake to see warEastern U.P. is a birding hotspot largely because songbirds blers and hawks migrating, and drive Curley Lewis Memorial and hawks don’t like crossing water, he explains, so they Highway, stopping at Bay View Campground and the choose the shortest launch point to fly across the Great Naomikong Bridge. Lakes. This means a lot of birds get funneled up through Mackinaw City, and are concentrated on the eastern side of the state. GET STARTED Nelson says birders look forward to spring to spot either hawks (best seen in April) or warblers—small, brightly colNelson recommends BirdCast—a website/app ored songbirds that usually show up around May. developed by the Cornell Lab of Ornithology “The Kirtland’s warbler is probably the most famous one that tracks overnight migration. His advice in Michigan, but there are 25 other species of warblers that for beginning birders? Keep your dog on a leash, stay on the trail and respect the habitat. come through,” he says. That includes Nelson’s personal fa“Leave no trace, watch where you’re stepping vorite: the black-throated blue warbler. “The color of blue is and take only pictures.” just mind-boggling, it’s so deep and rich. When the sun hits, it’s magnificent.” by ALLISON JARRELL ACOSTA

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... and I’m completely surrounded by birchbark. In front of me, there’s a table displaying an array of birchbark pendants and wall pockets elaborately decorated with brightly colored floral designs. Birchbark baskets adorn the walls. To my left, a birchbark frame displays a painting of birds in flight. Just off the garage, Ron’s workshop contains his current work in progress, a full-sized birchbark canoe. And steps from the house, his retail shop is filled with traditional crafts, many featuring birchbark.

I’M SITTING in Ron Paquin’s cozy living room on State Street, just off St. Ignace’s main drag

by Meagan Francis / photos by Tim Hussey

Through the medium of birchbark, artist Ron Paquin found healing in his Native roots. Now, he hopes to pass on his gift to the next generation.

The Power of a Tree


back down to Earth. “What do you use to dye the porcupine quills?” I ask Ron, admiring a circular pendant made of leather featuring a design of quills on its surface. He answers quietly, and I repeat what I think I heard. “Ah yes, root dye,” I say, fingering the delicate, brightly colored crewel work adorning the pendant, picturing steam rising from a pot in the tiny kitchen, boiling beets dug from the couple’s backyard garden. “That’s RIT dye!” Molly corrects from the other room. Cough.

Keeping Ron’s hands and mind moving productively has proven a reliable path away from the darkness that clouded his younger years.

Just across the street are the same Lake Huron waters that, hundreds of years ago, would have been frequently navigated by these canoes piloted by Ron’s ancestors—Chippewa Indians fishing the abundant Great Lakes. I’ll admit, I’m getting carried away by the romance of it all. Molly, Ron’s wife of 24 years, is sitting at the dining-room table piecing a quilt. She’s just out of sight, but within earshot, and occasionally pipes up with a helpful tidbit of information to augment her less-loquacious spouse’s storytelling—and occasionally, to bring me

“Um, do you source the quills yourself ?” I ask, in an attempt to save face. Yes, he nods. “How do you find the porcupines?” “I go outside, and I look down.” “How do you get the quills off the porcupine?” “I pull ’em.” Ron’s words may be sparing, but in

his little house, the art is not. And his impressive body of work is reflected in his even-more-impressive résumé. So far, the 81-year-old artist has been awarded 12 Michigan State University Master Artist Grants (six for making birchbark canoes), plus an ArtServe Michigan grant to teach birchbark canoe making to tribal adults and youth. He worked as a

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Native American interpreter for the Museum of Ojibwa Culture in St. Ignace for 15 years and is the recipient of multiple awards. His list of clients for commissioned pieces is also extensive, including museums and cultural centers as well as private collectors and enthusiasts. But all of this attention evidently

moving productively has proven a reliable path away from the darkness that clouded his younger years. Ron’s memoir Not First In No One’s Heart: The Life Story of a Contemporary Chippewa (Iowa State University Press, 1992), a collaboration with late author Robert Doherty, documents his

back and forth between his parents’ and relatives’ homes and was finally sent to one of the now-notorious boarding schools that existed to separate Native children as young as 6 from their culture. Removed—often forcibly—from their families and communities, children in these schools were expected to assimilate to a white identity and to

hasn’t gone to his head. During our conversation, Ron repeatedly finishes his sentences—particularly those that have highlighted an especially striking accomplishment—with, “It keeps me busy,” as if to downplay what he’s achieved. Don’t mistake it for false modesty, however: For a man with Ron’s past, this statement is the simple truth. Keeping his hands and mind

coming of age from a child whose life was defined by poverty, neglect and abuse, to a youth lashing out against forces of power, greed and authority, to a middle-aged man finally finding his own power in activism and a return to the traditional arts and practices that helped his people thrive for thousands of years before Europeans arrived. As a young child, Ron was shuffled

abandon their tribal languages, spiritual beliefs, cultural practices and outward identities: dressed in uniforms, their hair cut short, even given numbers to identify them rather than their Native names, under the racist missive of “killing the Indian to save the man.” Abandoned and abused by the social systems that were supposed to protect him and his siblings, Ron started down M AY 2 0 2 4

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Birchbark canoes were crucial tools in the Chippewa’s ability to navigate the lakes, streams and rivers in and around Northern Michigan.

a self-destructive road. As a young man, he was a heavy drinker, a knee-jerk brawler and, for about four years in his late teens and early twenties, a prisoner. His memoir paints a vivid picture of the kind of desperation that can set in when a community is deprived of connection, possibility and opportunity. “If you’re in high school and getting D minuses, what the hell are you going to show to someone to get a job? And the reason I quit high school was because I had to make a living, anyway,” Ron says. Ron credits his Aunt Agnes and other Indian women in his community with introducing him to traditional arts, like making birchbark baskets, as a child. “I’m not an academic, but I’m good with my hands, and I learned that at a pretty young age,” he says. But it wasn’t until later in his life that these traditional skills translated into economic opportunity, providing a path toward productivity and purpose. Tapping into his Native heritage gave Ron access to new livelihoods: first, as a commercial fisherman who was active in the Indian fishing rights issue of the 1970s and 1980s, and later, as an

makeshift shelter during harsh weather. The canoes were made in different shapes or lengths according to their intended purpose, and often decorated elaborately with colorful designs. When French missionaries and explorers arrived in the Sault Ste. Marie area in the 1600s, they were intrigued by these efficient, durable and beautiful craft, and wanted their own. As the fur trade heated up, demand grew, creating a cottage industry for area Chippewa. “There’s nothing primitive about these canoes,” Ron says. “People back then weren’t stupid. And when the

artisan. When Ron built an authentic longhouse for a display at a local museum, it got the attention of municipal and tribal leaders. He was hired to do more projects for the City of St. Ignace, and in the mid-’80s he built his first canoe for the Museum of Ojibwa Culture at Old Mission in St. Ignace. “It was kind of a self-taught project,” Molly says. “He put the bark on inside out.” Water is sacred and central to the Chippewa—also referred to as the Ojibwe, part of the Anishinaabe “original people”—who have inhabited the Great Lakes region for thousands of years. Birchbark canoes were crucial tools in the Chippewa’s ability to navigate the lakes, streams and rivers in and around Northern Michigan. Lightweight, fast and maneuverable, the canoes could easily handle narrow bodies of water and could also be readily portaged around dry spots, rapids and waterfalls. Birchbark proved to be a resilient building material, and the canoes were long-lasting and watertight. The Chippewa people used birchbark canoes for fishing and collecting manoomin (wild rice), an important dietary staple. They could also be flipped over and used as a 22 T R A V E R S E N O R T H E R N M I C H I G A N

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Europeans came over, they switched from wooden canoes to birchbark in a big hurry.” As big a hurry as they could, that is, considering that crafting these canoes is no quick matter. Simply sourcing the materials is a time-consuming process requiring strength, a good eye and considerable skill. “You gotta roam the woods quite a bit to find the right piece of birchbark,” Ron explains. “You can find a hundred birch trees and not one of them will grow a birchbark canoe.” Traditionally, the pieces of the canoe would be sewn together with boiled spruce roots—which must be dug up in the summer or fall when the ground is soft—and the seams would be sealed with a mix of charred pine sap and animal fat. It can take weeks or months before all of the materials are gathered to begin a build. It’s a lot of activity for a man in his ninth decade of life, and Ron appreciates the assistance of younger helpers. One of these people is Master Apprentice Adam Avery, who works with Ron through a Michigan Traditional Arts Apprenticeship with Michigan State University and has assisted on multiple builds over the years. “Adam just turned fifty, so he’s just a baby—still a kid,” Ron jokes. To other Native community members, these projects serve as an important connection to a heritage that was stolen from them when they were young. “A lot of things were lost because of the boarding schools and the attempts to take the Indian out of the Indian people,” says Bridgett Sorenson, events manager for the St. Ignace Visitors Bureau, who also sits on the board of directors for the Sault Tribe of Chippewa Indians. “It led to a lot of addiction and that kind of thing because our people couldn’t be who they were. So now we’re trying to bring these

skills back in our community so that our members have the opportunity to learn and pass them on to their kids and grandkids.” Ron, an elder with the Sault Tribe, is doing his best to keep these traditions alive through community builds, teaching and apprenticeships—which have included his grandsons, Christopher and Ronnie, both of whom have worked with Ron through the Michigan State University Museum’s Master Artist and Apprenticeship Program. He recently completed a community canoe build with members of the Sault Ste. Marie Tribe of Chippewa Indians that was also open to the public—a common occurrence, says Molly. The most recent build had about 15 people turn out, including members of the general public. “Ron always wants the canoe builds to be open to the public,” Molly says. “His ultimate goal is to promote awareness of the craft to anyone who’s interested, with the hope that Native traditions are appreciated and carried forward.” Standing in Ron’s shop, surrounded by his artistry, the evidence of patience and a steady hand are present in every stitch and embellishment. The tranquility of this art and his gentle

demeanor are a surprising contrast to the angry, reactive young man from the pages of his memoir. It’s as though connecting with his roots finally allowed him the connection he’d been missing, when he confessed to a prison therapist that he’d never felt first “in no one’s heart.” By accepting his inheritance as an ambassador of the arts and traditions of his ancestors, Ron was able to calm the storm within. Still, when it comes to the impact he hopes to have on future generations, Ron’s answer is characteristically humble … and practical. “How do you hope to keep this tradition alive?” I ask. “I just keep doing it,” he replies. Meagan Francis splits her time between Southwest Michigan and the Upper Peninsula, where she and her family own The Mill, a historic building in Manistique that’s been converted into a market and independent bookstore. themillmanistique.com Tim Hussey is the art director of Traverse Northern Michigan magazine. He is also a fine artist and photographer who enjoys shooting stories that speak to him. thusseyphoto.com M AY 2 0 2 4

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TAKING FLIGHT My family had a dream for togetherness and community here in Northern Michigan. We just didn’t know it would take a life-changing journey to make it happen. by Nicole White photos by Andy Wakeman When a guest visits Dune Bird Winery in Northport, the renovated tasting room blurs the line between cozy and industrial. Any austerity from the modern stainless steel, glass garage doors and subtle aviation theme melts away against a layered, hygge feel centered around two fireplaces, comfy leather chairs, sheepskin throws and blue suede. You may see a couple at the bar with a compendium of glasses in front of them engaged in a lively discussion about the similarities between these cool climate reds and those coming out of the Loire Valley in France. Before heading out to the lawn with eyes on the vintage croquet set, you notice a remote worker in the “library” room with a cappuccino and locally made macarons. Hmm, round two, you think. The grounds are bustling, but the expansiveness elicits a poignant peace. You pause and breathe deeply before settling under a big maple tree with the vineyard in your peripheral, listening to the distant squeals of kids playing on a swing set. “Land of delight” is right.

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It’s a delight our family doesn’t take for granted. It’s hard to know where to start with a story like Dune Bird. We aren’t people who start where we’re supposed to, anyway. Before 2021, opening a winery had never even crossed our minds. With little business experience, minimal resources and no financial backing, we weren’t likely candidates. But every once in a while, an opportunity comes along that makes you narrow your focus, gather your wits and throw all your chips on the table. And, despite all we lacked, what we did have was vision—and a sink-or-swim proposition. It would take everything we had, but we knew

My husband, Bo, and I knew enough to have an inkling of the renovation work it would take to bring this place back to life. But the potential made our eyes light up. At the time, we were neck-deep in another reno: a century-old farmhouse in Maple City that we’d purchased just three months earlier. The only way we could buy the property that would become Dune Bird was to sell our home. This dream wouldn’t be something we could dip a toe into—it was all or nothing. So, we hustled, finishing the Maple City home as quickly as we could, and it sold within days of listing. We bought a fifth wheel, convincing our two young kids that

Dune Bird might be just the opportunity we were looking for; an anchor for our family. We first looked at the 25-acre property just north of Leland on M-22 in February 2021. A thick blanket of snow lay across the land. Cattle fencing protruded defiantly from the expanse of white, and a long, snaking driveway gave way to a smattering of paddocks, barns and lean-tos. Two decades earlier the property had been cultivated as Gill’s Pier Winery and Vineyard; later it became home to herds of yak and alpaca as Gill’s Pier Ranch. The old tasting room-turned-farm store was tired and mostly abandoned, full of leftovers from both previous businesses. The property was laden with debris and treasures alike—evidence of hard-working dreamers before us.

living in a house on wheels was super cool. And then we rolled up our sleeves. Though reviving the winery wasn’t even our initial idea, one thing was clear: This property was meant to be shared. Coming out of the pandemic, we felt a strong desire to create a gathering place, a spot that fostered face-to-face relationships. A place that prioritized people and hospitality, and a place that felt like home—literally for us, but just as intentionally for our guests. It was a revival of the property’s history, but the story of revival goes deeper still. To understand what it meant to build the Dune Bird dream, we have to go back to a place that’s perhaps as foreign to you as viticulture was to us … a place deep in the mountains of Kandahar, Afghanistan,

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Shoulder to shoulder we tore the place apart and put it all back together again. It was agonizing and beautiful. where Bo was on one of the most dangerous missions of his career. He’d been deploying overseas for more than a decade, first in active-duty service in both Air Force and Army Special Operations and then as a defense contractor when we moved to Northern Michigan. This was deployment number 13, or maybe 14—after a while, you just stop counting. Afghanistan, Iraq, Syria, Horn of Africa. He’d been in them all. Over the years, we’d experienced plenty of hard deployments and life-changing events. Friends killed, teammates injured, endless moves, our two babies born: It was a life that was both challenging and rewarding. We dealt constantly with the high-risk realities of Bo’s career, but the real crisis was about to hit—and it wasn’t on the battlefield. When we left active-duty military in 2016, we moved to Leelanau County—home for Bo—ready to figure out a different life. High-level special operations across a broad international spectrum doesn’t parlay very easily into a career in Leelanau County, though, so Bo transitioned to work for the State Department as a defense contractor. We could live where we wanted, but he would deploy overseas in a two-month gone, two-month home rotation while I worked full-time as the online editor of this magazine. It wasn’t easy, but we made it work. By the winter of 2017, I’d stepped down as an editor to be with the kids full-time, and Bo was back in Afghanistan. The constant deployments were wearing us thin. It would be yet another Christmas without him, so I took the kids and flew home to be with my family in northwest Montana. There in my childhood home, deep in the Rocky Mountains, our 4-year-old son, Forrest, got sick. It was then, one week before Christmas, that everything changed. Only instead of me receiving a dreaded call from Bo’s command, Bo got a middle-of-the-night call from me.

What had started as a croupy cough got worse and worse, and we reluctantly went to the ER for a nebulizer treatment. But Forrest’s cough wasn’t the problem. An X-ray and subsequent CT scan showed Forrest’s entire lung cavity was filled with a mass that was wrapped around his esophagus and trachea, restricting his airway to a pinhole smaller than a coffee straw. The medical team couldn’t intubate, and they couldn’t sedate. He was actively suffocating, and all we could do was hope he made it to a team waiting 250 miles away at the nearest children’s hospital in Spokane, Washington. Outside of the ER, there was a Montana blizzard raging that rendered the Life Flight helicopter useless. Instead,

This pretty sipper is called a “Leelanau Sunset.” It features Pure Leland, a dry bubbly made with pinot gris grapes, and Audacia nonalcoholic spirits

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volunteer EMTs in an old ambulance became our best option to transport a pediatric patient with a severely compromised airway. Forrest made it to Spokane and ultimately was diagnosed with T-Cell Acute Lymphoblastic Leukemia. The treatment plan was daunting: a three-and-a-half-year barrage of constant chemotherapy. The challenge wasn’t in shrinking the tumor or eradicating the rogue white blood cells. That would be done relatively quickly. The trick was in keeping the leukemia gone. And so, every single day for three-and-a-half years, Forrest had a pharmaceutical cauldron—including chemo, massive steroids and multiple experimental drugs— pumped through his veins. He endured things no person, let alone a child, should ever have to experience, and the scars of it will never leave any of us. And yet—I’ll never forget the conversation with his oncologist in the wee hours of that first fateful day: He told me, “We estimate ninety percent of his bone marrow was leukemia before it spilled out into his organs. The tumor grew in the last six to eight weeks.”

He paused, his eyes boring into mine: “In another day, maybe two, it would have closed his airway entirely. He would have died in his sleep, and you could have done nothing. That cold saved his life.” That knowledge, from day one, gave Bo and me the gratitude and resolve we needed. It didn’t matter how hard we had to fight; we had gotten the chance to fight. We so easily could have been planning a funeral instead. It was perspective we clung to. The following years were the hardest of our lives. Forrest’s body was ravaged. It wasn’t the fact that the antidote to cancer is poison; it’s that cancer doesn’t just relegate itself to the one body it attacks. Its tentacles reach out to destroy everything it can touch: the baby sibling caught in its wake, perilous finances, a rocky marriage, our faith. We had to trust that there was a purpose in the pain. It didn’t take the hard stuff away, but it made it bearable. Our faith gave us the surety we weren’t in this fight alone. The first event we held at Dune Bird was a community-wide celebration of the end of Forrest’s cancer treatment. While we were still knee-deep in renovations and not yet open to the public, a large crowd gathered to share a pig roast and watch Forrest ring the bell, signifying the end of his treatment. We hadn’t fought alone, and we sure didn’t celebrate alone. Coming out of an acute cancer journey as well as the havoc of Covid-19 made us even hungrier for and more appreciative of real connections. That year, 2021, was the first time in our nearly 15-year marriage that Bo did not deploy. Shoulder to shoulder we tore the place apart and put it all back together again. It was agonizing and beautiful. The onsite vineyard allowed for the revival of a Above: Musician Luke Woltanski plays frequently at Dune Bird. Live music Sundays begin May 5; catch Luke on May 26.

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tasting room and laid the foundation for a wine menu showcasing our agriculturally rich county. We incorporated Bo’s drink of choice with a full espresso bar, intentionally elevating non-alcoholic options, and later added N/A mixed drinks from Traverse City–based Audacia Elixirs. We wanted to create a space where people could linger, so we built out a small catering kitchen for tapas-style small plates like crispy vegan spring rolls and kid-approved pigs in a blanket. Forrest and our daughter, Finley, created toy boxes for visiting littles, and we set up a play set and sandbox outdoors. At the end of the year, we opened Dune Bird Winery to the public. We had an incredible first season in 2022, marked by overwhelming community support and a remarkable staff surrounding us. As we were getting our winery legs underneath us, a world event suddenly stopped us all in our tracks: Russia invaded Ukraine. Though Dune Bird was an opportunity for our family to focus more locally, the concept of community reaches far beyond geographic confines. The call was clear, and within days Bo headed back overseas, this time as a civilian to work alongside two NGOs in a humanitarian effort to get people out and bring supplies in. Over the course of the next year, Bo went back to Ukraine three additional times, serving various roles alongside a nonprofit called Save Our Allies. One of his missions was the rescue of Fox News correspondent Benjamin Hall as Russians surrounded Kyiv. It was a harrowing exploit that has since been highlighted in a Fox Nation documentary and in The New York Times best-seller Saved. While I poured chardonnay here, he pulled people out of rubble there. It was yet another reminder of both the richness and frailty of life—and the importance of living with intention and purpose. Contrary to the industry status quo: Dune Bird was never meant to be focused on the wine. To be sure, we are active members of a burgeoning group of wineries, growers and makers who are propelling Leelanau forward as a significant wine region with a national reputation. Leelanau, as an appellation, continues to win more and higher-caliber awards than anywhere in the state and is currently growing its Vitis vinifera acreage faster than any other Michigan AVA. Still, to us, wine and coffee are simply tools. A story starter. An invitation. A catalyst for meaningful connection. Because, at the end of the day, Dune Bird isn’t just about what we have in our hands. Dune Bird is about who we have in front of us.

Nicole White is the co-owner of Dune Bird Winery alongside her husband, Bo. A nomadic soul who never dreamed she’d own a brick-and-mortar business, Nicole relishes the beauty and privilege of calling Leelanau home. dunebirdwinery.com Andy Wakeman, an editorial and commercial photographer, was born and raised in Northern Michigan. He enjoys exploring beaches, meeting interesting folks and braving the North’s snowstorms, camera in hand. andywakemanphoto.com

GATHER AT DUNE BIRD SIP: New to the menu are two single vinifera reds: a velvety pinot noir and a much-anticipated, estategrown cabernet franc. Our bubbly favorite, Pure Leland, will have some competition this season with the release of a sparkling blanc de blanc, Manitou Sky. PLAY: A new club, Paddle Courts of Leelanau, and Dune Bird have joined forces to offer platform tennis to the community. Construction starts this spring on two courts for members as well as set hours each day for Dune Bird guests to play. Sign-ups for dual membership in both the Dune Bird Flight (Wine) Club and Paddle Court are currently underway. DANCE: Live music Sundays at Dune Bird have quickly become a highlight of the week. Every Sunday afternoon (3–6 p.m.) from May through October, you can experience incredible local artists. The schedule is online at dunebirdwinery.com/news.

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HOPE S P R I NGS E PHE M E RA L

PHOTOS AND TEXT BY

ALLISON JARRELL ACOSTA

WHEN THE NORTHWOODS BEGIN TO THAW, WHIMSICAL CREATURES LIKE FAIRY SHRIMP AND SPOTTED SALAMANDERS QUIETLY COME TO LIFE. IT’S ON US TO KEEP IT THAT WAY.

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THE WA T E R IS ST I L L—

Thankfully, a coalition of state and local organizations, as well as a growing number of passionate community scientists, have made it their mission to find and document Michigan’s vernal pools, helping ensure these fragile ecosystems—and their inhabitants—live to see another spring. The first lesson I learned about vernal pool monitoring: not all boots are created equal. That was my first thought right after “Do NOT drop your camera” as I made a wrong step along the murky edge of a vernal pool deep within Grass River Natural Area. As the ice-cold water slipped into the bottom of my woefully inadequate purple rain boots, I winced and turned what I can only imagine was a bright shade of tomato red. My wellequipped cohorts (in respectable waders and hip boots) asked if I was okay. Yup … my soggy ego would dry out eventually.* But the cold feet were worth it. Donning boots (or waders) and— carefully—exploring turbid pools of water in 50-degree weather might not sound so romantic, but spend a few

a looking glass filled with gray sky and bare trees standing tall around us. On this misty morning, bird calls echo through the forest. Speckled trout lily leaves begin to peek through last fall’s crumbled leaves. Spring is here … finally. But just for a moment. It would be easy to see this pool—surrounded by the damp, dormant forest floor—and mistake it for an ordinary puddle; a hollow that caught too many April showers. But this is a vernal pool, and beneath the surface, tiny woodland wonders are happening. Spotted salamanders lay their eggs and search for suitable log homes nearby. Camouflaged wood frogs peep from between fresh blades of grass. And perhaps, most magical of all, wee neon-orange freshwater crustaceans known as “fairy shrimp” float about, not a care in the world. Vernal pools (vernal meaning spring, like the vernal equinox) are considered the coral reefs of northeastern forests because they’re teeming with a variety of wildlife—more than 550 species of aquatic insects, amphibians, reptiles, birds and mammals are drawn to these ephemeral wetlands. Hundreds, if not thousands, of frogs and salamanders migrate to and breed in vernal pools each spring. And some species, like the tiny, twirling fairy shrimp, rely on these isolated wetlands for their survival. But like many hushed natural wonders, vernal pools are at risk of being overlooked at best; at worst, eliminated. Gaps in wetland protections, coupled with climate change and increased development across the state, pose a threat to these pools and the creatures that call them home. 32 T R A V E R S E N O R T H E R N M I C H I G A N

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Grass River Natural Area board member Rich Hannan measures vernal pool temperature, while Sheridan Haack, a GRNA volunteer, checks for aquatic insects.

days monitoring wildlife-rich vernal pools and you’ll fall in love with the Norths’ spring woods. I fell head over heels (almost literally) last spring, as I tagged along with teams of volunteers and local Vernal Pool Patrol program coordinators in Bellaire’s Grass River Natural Area, and later on in Otsego County’s Pigeon River Country State Forest. Documenting their vernal pool monitoring process—and even better, helping them gather much-needed data—filled my April and May days with pure, childlike wonder. The thrill of seeking out tiny, ethereal forest creatures was unmatched. I relished each gloomy morning, and every damp, muddy, leaf litter–laden, log-lifting moment. Sure, I had watched the online training sessions the month prior, so I had some inkling of the adventures ahead.

But being out in the woods, dipping nets into the murky unknown and debating which creature left a bubbly mass of eggs on a nearby twig—this was like being enrolled in the best science class ever. On my first morning in the field, the team of vernal pool patrollers—ranging from Grass River employees and board members to retired teachers and Huron Pines AmeriCorps members—gently made their way into and around each pool we visited, dunking thermometers for water temps and jotting down measurements and observations: pool length, number of trees in and around the water, the predominant types of vegetation. We found plenty of aquatic insects and freshwater fingernail clams, but the primary search was for signs of elusive “indicator species”—wood frogs, spotted salamanders, blue-spotted salamanders and fairy shrimp. (The shrimp are a prized find; the only species that, on its own, confirms the presence of a true vernal pool.) These creatures spend their entire life cycles in and around the pools, making them excellent indicators of the habitat’s health. While we didn’t find any fairy shrimp that day, we were rich in wood frog eggs, wood frog tadpoles and spotted salamander eggs—all signs pointing to vernal pool status. As i spent more and more time in these quiet oases, it became exceedingly clear why these species thrive in vernal pools; these still, fishless ponds are predator-free and peaceful. Unlike the food-chain chaos of a stream or lake, these serene wetlands are filled with slow, solitary moments. The leisurely crawl of a sleepy salamander. The statuesque stillness of a well-hidden wood frog. The wonderfully whimsical ballet of the fairy shrimp. But don’t be fooled by their laid-back demeanor. These species have adapted to a rapid seasonal lifecycle—breeding and/or hatching in the spring and

*This is exactly why vernal pool monitoring should be left to trained individuals, who know how to enter this type of habitat with the proper gear and protocols designed to disrupt these ecologically significant pools as little as possible. M AY 2 0 2 4

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Former GRNA Conservation Director Emily Burke (who served as a Vernal Pool Patrol program coordinator) carefully wades through a pool while collecting data.

and has since been training community scientists to identify, map and monitor vernal pools in their region. The data collected is used to create a statewide database of pools, which supports research and protection efforts. And the work is paying off. As of last December, nearly 6,400 potential vernal pools have been mapped across Michigan, with 897 being verified as actual vernal pools. Within that total, 520 new pools were added last year, and 86 site visits were completed by program coordinators and citizen scientists. Historically, much of the patrol effort has been focused downstate, as the partnership is based in Lansing. But vernal pool monitoring is on the rise in Northern Michigan, with volunteer program coordinators spanning the state, from the Keweenaw Peninsula down to Leelanau County, Grass River Natural Area and Otsego County— which is where I ventured next. It was deep within the lush Pigeon River Country State Forest that I first saw a fairy shrimp. I was there for a HeadWaters Land Conservancy public outreach event last April, where staff allowed interested folks to tag along during a day of monitoring. After exploring a potential

reaching adulthood before the pools dry up each summer. This expedited schedule means that finding these wetlands and documenting them is a race against time for volunteers, who only have a couple of months to make multiple field visits to search for signs of life. (Vernal pools are also typically visited toward the end of summer to confirm whether the pool has dried up.) That’s where the Michigan Vernal Pools Partnership—and its Vernal Pool Patrol program—come in. Founded by the Michigan Natural Features Inventory, the Michigan Nature Association and the Michigan Department of Environment, Great Lakes, and Energy (EGLE), the public/private partnership (which has grown into a coalition of dozens of stakeholders) is working to increase awareness; research, map and protect vernal pools through conservation; and spread the word through education, outreach and collaboration. As part of those goals, the Vernal Pool Patrol program was launched in 2012 34 T R A V E R S E N O R T H E R N M I C H I G A N

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GET

INVOLVED

If protecting these profoundly special pools sounds like something you’d wander into the woods for, head to the Michigan Vernal Pools Partnership website: vppartnership.iescentral.com the Vernal Pool Patrol hub: vernal-pool-patrol-mnfi.hub.arcgis.com and follow along on Facebook and Instagram for updates: @mivernalpools Keep an eye out for educational outreach events in your area this spring, and if you’re ready to get in the field, consider joining next season’s Vernal Pool Patrol virtual trainings in March, where you’ll learn about pool ecology, monitoring techniques and uploading data.

Kate Kirkpatrick, an EGLE wetlands policy analyst, says in order to fill these protection gaps, engaging local government is key. Officials have the ability to include resource protection in land use decisions and site planning—and hopefully prevent irreparable harm. Which, in turn, improves local water quality, watershed management, flood control, wildlife habitat, recreation—the list goes on. “Wetlands are a source of inspiration for a lot of people. You see it in artwork and in a thriving scientific community,” Kirkpatrick says. “Humans are drawn to these ecosystems, and sometimes we don’t realize what was so special about them until they’re gone.”

pool that turned out to lack potential, a couple of Huron Pines AmeriCorps Inspired by my early spring monitoring, I enlisted my husband, Ty, to drive up members suggested another location to Northport with me last May. My mother-in-law had mentioned that she that required a bit of off-roading. knew of a small pond near their cottage. Was it a vernal pool? The longer trek was worth it. We I was vibrating with excitement as I donned my waders (lesson learned), weren’t there for more than a few mingrabbed our equipment and hiked into the woods. The pool in question was utes before someone called out that quite large and still—the only movement was the gentle sway of underwater they had found a spotted salamander, greenery. I took measurements and jotted observations, but it didn’t take long nestled underneath a decaying tree to realize something was missing. trunk. Wood frogs were reportedly There were no frogs. Hardly any aquatic insects. No egg masses clinging to hopping about. And then the magic twigs. We lifted log after log, and found not a single sleeping salamander. words: “I’ve got a fairy shrimp!” Disappointment hung heavy in the air. I was more than ready to leave. And Everyone rushed over to the lucky that’s when it happened. Petri dish. There it was—a tiny, inchTy pointed toward the edge of the pool. “Look,” he said, “What is that?” long translucent crustacean performing I squinted hard and (lovingly) questioned his eyesight, until I finally saw it. the most graceful backstroke; all 11 A small, ethereal specter floating about. My heart leapt. pairs of its legs rippled in tandem, creThere were lots of them. Everywhere. ating a wing-like effect. This small We dipped our trays and magical being seemed unPetri dishes and watched with bothered by its new swimV I E W BE H I N D-T H E-SC E N ES FOOTAGE FROM glee as each ghostly complexion ming pool, complete with L A ST SPR I NG’S V E R NA L POOL MON I TOR I NG: shifted to a bright orange hue. wide-eyed onlookers. L I N K . M Y NORT H.C OM / V E R NA L P OOL S There they were—the elusive I was mesmerized. I fairy shrimp, the sea monkeys looked back into the cloudy of our northern woods—doing laps in the palm of my hand. vernal pool and saw nothing. No eviTears of joy welled up and I laughed, embarrassed by the reaction. There was dence of its existence. something so comforting, knowing these little monkeys were here the whole It was impossible to watch this delitime, and we had finally found them. A marshy Atlantis, hidden in plain sight. cate dancer flit about and not want to At least for now. protect it—protect all of them. Soon, these pools will dry. The forest floor will begin to bud with trillium, trout The awe of the moment was balanced lilies and furry fiddlehead ferns. Frogs will wander. Salamanders will seek shady with the realization that many of these shelter. And the fairy shrimp will disappear just as quickly as they arrived. vulnerable habitats have likely, unknowBut we caught a glimpse. An ephemeral moment come and gone. ingly, been filled in for one reason or anAnd the cycle begins again. other. Because of their small size and isolated nature, vernal pools tend to fall Allison Jarrell Acosta is the associate editor of Traverse Northern Michigan magathrough the cracks of current state and zine. You can find her in the woods looking for fairy shrimp. allison@mynorth.com federal wetland regulations. M AY 2 0 2 4

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Blue Zone Tips for Northern Lifestyles p. 38

Healthy Baby, Fit Mom p. 52 NORTHERN MICHIGAN

photo by Dave Weidner // styling by Sarah Peschel

A healthy, plant-forward diet is another key ingredient in a Blue Zones lifestyle.

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LIFESTYLE

“BLUE ZONE” LIVING IN

Our region has all the ingredients for a long, healthy life. by MEAGAN FRANCIS photos by DAVE WEIDNER

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e

ver wondered about a secret formula to living to 90, 100 or even beyond? The so-called “Blue Zones,” made famous in the book and documentary by journalist Dan Buettner, are regions across the globe where residents regularly live into their 90s and 100s, and are still enjoying health and vitality even as their birthday cakes get more and more crowded with candles. Considering the list of established Blue Zones, it’s easy to see a pattern emerge: from Greece to Italy, most of the studied zones are quite a bit closer to the equator than the area we lovingly call home. Look a little closer at the data, however, and it’s clear that the long-living folk in Blue Zones have a lot more in common than latitude. In fact, all the identified lifestyle factors that help Blue Zone dwellers living into their 90s and beyond can be readily practiced by Northern Michigan residents—and resources close to home are here to help pave the way for a long and healthy life. From embracing a fresh, local diet and engaging in regular movement, to fostering strong social ties and living with a sense of purpose, the fundamentals of a Blue Zone life are bountifully available right here in the North. Here are a few ways to make the most of them. CONNECT WITH PURPOSE

Meaningful work, volunteering and getting involved in civic life are all ways to infuse your life with a sense of purpose, one of the cornerstones of Blue Zone living. Many centenarians in Blue Zones attribute their longevity to a purpose-driven existence, whether through contributing to family, community or pursuing personal passions. Northern Michigan offers endless opportunities to engage meaningfully with the world around us. One of these resources is the Grand Traverse County Senior Center Network (GTCSCN), a millage-funded organization offering people age 60 and over a bounty of free opportunities to move, connect, socialize, eat well and live with a sense of purpose, belonging and adventure. At any given GTCSCN building you might find residents exercising together, sharing a meal or playing cards. “I like to say that we’ve created a ‘Blue Zone’ right here in Northern Michigan,” says Director Michelle Krumm. At GTCSCN, purpose-filled activities are baked into the organization’s mission, including a discussion group centering on ethical issues and a multitude of volunteer opportunities that have a measurable impact on the community. “We have some > M AY 2 0 2 4

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LIFESTYLE

members who volunteer every day to serve lunch or who take part in our ambassador program,” says Krumm. The Grand Traverse Volunteer Network also offers hundreds of opportunities to give of your time and talents, while a host of civic and nonprofit organizations and clubs centered around activities ranging from the arts to outdoor adventure provide meaningful opportunities to give back, get involved and pursue a passion. BLUE TIP: Pass a dish at a monthly potluck. At The Friendship Community Center in Suttons Bay, parents with wee ones, teen pals, newcomers to the region and active retirees all gather monthly to share a smorgasbord of home-cooked offerings. The beloved community potlucks—always the first Wednesday of the month—are a tradition at The Center, whose mission in part is to create opportunities for developing an intergenerational legacy between youth and adults in the Leelanau area. MOVE NATURALLY

In any Blue Zone, you’ll find one common denominator: the residents move. A lot. But they aren’t necessarily gym rats, and you wouldn’t even call all of this physical activity “exercise”—which tends to be much more structured and repetitive. Instead, the kind of movement we’re talking about is the ordinary, just-enjoying-an-active-life kind: gardening, bicycling, playing with grandkids, swimming, climbing stairs and the VIP of natural movement—walking, walking, walking. Folks in the studied Blue Zones tend to live in places that naturally nudge them toward moving and pursue lifestyles that keep them active without having to think too much about it. From walkable neighborhoods that beckon you for a stroll and a “hello,” to hiking and biking trails offering miles of natural beauty to enjoy while movement just “happens,” to clubs that put joyful movement at their center, our region offers so many ways to keep moving, naturally. Living in a walkable community can go a long way toward upping your overall movement, but no matter where you live, you can inject more walking into your life. Try choosing “walkable” neighborhoods (walkscore.org is a great place to check) in which to run your errands, and if possible, make a pact with yourself to “park once”—maybe a few blocks away from your main destination—and walk the rest of your trip. Pursue active hobbies that keep you moving at home, too: gardening and dog walking are great options. Remember that house and yard work count as natural movement, so think twice before you hire a service (or that neighborhood kid) to pull your weeds, mow your lawn, shovel the walk or any other household task you’re able to perform. And don’t forget the power of moving with others. At GTCSCN, members can choose from a variety of free group activities like yoga, mindful movement, curling and line dancing. BLUE TIP: Cruise around with a cycling club. There’s no better way to get to know a new community than exploring the area on two wheels. Whether you’re interested in touring the region’s bucolic backroads or riding scenic trails, your local bike shop is an excellent place to start. Most offer organized rides and are great at helping cyclists connect with like-minded riders.

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LIFESTYLE

EAT FRESH

A healthy, plant-forward diet is another key ingredient in a Blue Zones lifestyle, and Northern Michigan has the culinary options to keep you eating well. Another thing most Blue Zones have in common is moderate alcohol consumption, typically red wine—a nod to our celebrated winery scene. BLUE TIP: Eat fresh, year-round. Truth: Northern Michigan has a shorter growing season than most of the studied Blue Zones, which can make it tricky to eat farm-fresh food year-round. Enter Michigan Farm to Freezer, a business that takes frozen produce, grown and harvested on Michigan farms, and makes it available in grocery-store freezer sections across the state. So, next time you’re in the mood for a sweet cherry in January or asparagus in March, you can fill your plate with a local harvest. Visit mifarmtofreezer.com to find a retailer near you. FIND YOUR PEOPLE

The importance of social bonds is evident in Blue Zones, where residents look out for each other. The GTCSCN offers a variety of opportunities for group activity, including travel, to make it easier to connect with like-minded people. Belonging to a group can have a protective effect, too. Krumm highlights how members of GTCSCN take care of one another, recalling a situation where a member who was typically present for yoga classes stopped attending. “If one person always shows up and all of a sudden, they’re no longer coming, the other residents will reach out and check on them,” Krumm says. In this case, their absent friend was struggling— and the members were able to connect him with help. With 5,000-plus members of GTCSCN, Krumm says there are many ways to find “your people” within the community.

BLUE TIP: Get your hands dirty. If you’re looking for a community of outdoorsy folks, volunteering with a local conservancy will get you outside and connecting with other nature lovers. Organizations like Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy often hold trail clearing and maintenance events, or get involved with a stewardship program or invasive species management. PUT FAMILY FRONT AND CENTER

In Blue Zones, healthy aging means putting friends and family (chosen or biological) first. This means, when possible, keeping aging parents and grandparents near kids and grandkids (which, as it happens, can have a health-positive effect for children, too.) For these Blue Zones folk, aging well can mean committing to a life partner, and investing in their children and grandchildren—which can reap benefits when it’s time for them to need care, as well. According to United States Census data, in 2019, 33.3% of the combined population of Antrim, Charlevoix, Cheboygan and Emmet counties was 60 years of age or older, up from 25.3% in 2010. And that percentage is set to rise across Northern Michigan as a whole. “We have a silver tsunami coming,” Krumm says. Luckily, Northern Michigan is equipped to provide our aging population with a bounty of opportunities for connection, belonging, physical activity and healthy food—not to mention, a vibrant and beautiful place friends and loved ones can’t wait to visit. BLUE TIP: Take the (great) grandkids. Northern Michigan’s active octogenarians, nonagenarians and centenarians could spend decades exploring mixed-generation-friendly attractions with their kids, grandkids and great-grandkids without ever seeing them all. One such gem is the Michigan Legacy Art Park, on the grounds of Crystal Mountain. Boasting two miles of hiking trails (including a barrier-free entry and ¼ mile of accessible trails) that wend past more than 50 sculptures and 30 poetry stones nestled amid the natural beauty of a hardwood forest, it’s the perfect place for an active, multi-generational outing: Let little ones run off steam while you get your heart rate up, pack a picnic lunch and enjoy yearround events like the Summer Sounds concert series. The park is open daily, dawn to dusk, year-round. M AY 2 0 2 4

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Liquid Gold Five easy, delicious and healthy ways to cook with olive oil. by LISA BLAKE

Ancient Greeks dubbed olive oil “liquid gold” and the “great healer.” The Mediterranean staple has been revered by doctors and chefs for centuries for its medicinal and dietary benefits. Enamored with the miracle potion’s prevalence during his European travels, Fustini’s Oils & Vinegars founder Jim Milligan brought the concept stateside, opening a Traverse City tasting room in 2008 followed by three additional Michigan locations—in Petoskey, Holland and Ann Arbor—over the next few years. Fustini’s (named for the Italian stainless steel drums used to store olive oils and balsamic vinegars) is dedicated to working with small-batch growers. The staff loves visiting farmers in Italy and Spain to watch the process unfold—from plucking and pressing olives to demulsifying and decanting the fresh oil. “Lots of store-bought oils are refined or chemically extracted,” says Fustini’s Marketing Director Denise Walburg. “Pure olive oil is just olive juice.” Fustini’s commitment to the healthful, flavorful import is proving to be exactly what modern kitchens and mindful eaters need. Here, Walburg walks us through five simple and good-foryou ways to cook with olive oil. Make a salad dressing. The number one rule when it comes

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Aging in Place Increase your odds of growing older at home. by KIRSETIN K. MORELLO

If you’re part of the 75 percent of Americans 55 and older who hope to remain at home as long as possible, living in a Northern Michigan town like Traverse City could be the ticket. That’s because opportunities for physical activity, social interaction and access to transportation increase the likelihood that you’ll be able to “age in place”—the common phrase for remaining in your own home or community for the long haul. From e-bikes to pickleball to cultural arts, active opportunities abound, and not just for youth. In 2020, Realtor.com named the Traverse City area the best place to retire in America. If aging in place appeals to you, here are four factors that can help you up your odds:

But everyone benefits from living in a community where the maintenance staff sweats the small—and big—stuff for you. “Our residents don’t have to mow the grass or shovel the snow. We do it all,” Scott explains. “We even change the light bulbs in their apartment!”

Healthy movement. For adults 65 and older, the

Centers for Disease Control and Prevention recommends moderate- to vigorous-intensity activity, muscle strengthening and exercises to improve balance weekly. Communities that offer amenities to support healthy aging can make it easier to hit those goals. “At Bay Ridge, we focus on helping residents stay healthy and active,” says Linda Scott, community director at The Village at Bay Ridge in Traverse City, a 55-plus community. “We have a certified personal trainer on staff and offer exercise classes, like Pilates, each week,” she says. Residents also enjoy walking the scenic path that encircles the property’s pond and walking or biking the nearby TART trails.

Building connections. The National Institute

on Aging found that socializing as we age combats a host of health-related issues, including an increased risk of heart diseases and depression. Communities like The Village at Bay Ridge offer plenty of amenities to promote social connection. “We have a huge library with a grand piano, a mini theater, a card and game room with billiards, a fitness center and more,” says Scott. “We also facilitate the residents doing all sorts of off-site activities together, like attending the opera or visiting Interlochen. We use our community transportation for those events.”

Aging-friendly housing. The type of housing that’s best for you

as you age depends on a variety of factors, which is why some accommodations at Bay Ridge are barrier-free, while others still have bathtubs. Residents can choose the best fit for them.

Continuum of care. Even if we’re healthy well into our 70s, we may eventually require additional healthcare. The Village at Bay Ridge offers 250 fully independent cottages and apartments, which means active seniors can live the life they want, in their own home. If you eventually require additional healthcare, perhaps managing medication or with mobility, Bay Ridge also features an assisted living center, as well as a community that specializes in dementia care, and residents get priority for those apartments. “It’s a huge benefit to know you can receive the care you need without having to move away from the community you know and love,” Scott says. M AY 2 0 2 4

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4 Keys to Financial Wellness Your financial health impacts your overall health—here’s how to help protect it. by KIRSETIN K. MORELLO

When we think about mental and physical wellness, we may consider the obvious: nutrition, exercise and stress management. But the health of our finances can play a surprisingly large role in our overall wellness. A 2023 PricewaterhouseCoopers International Limited study reported that almost 60 percent of full-time employees were stressed about finances—which affected their sleep, physical and mental health and more. Another recent study by MetLife demonstrated a strong correlation between people’s level of happiness and feelings of financial security. Understanding that link is a solid argument for taking steps to ensure our financial wellness, one of which can be partnering with a financial institution to discuss your current financial situation. That discussion can help identify the steps needed to achieve your current and long-term financial goals. At Community Choice Credit Union, which has 24 member centers throughout Michigan, members benefit from its complimentary financial wellness service Choice Map. As part of the service, Community Choice has more than 120 personal advisors who are certified as Credit Union Certified Financial Counselors. They help members create a customized plan to save, borrow, simplify and protect their assets. As you consider your overall health, Cat McMacken, Choice Map product manager at Community Choice Credit Union, offers these four tips: Pay yourself first. Embracing automated options to pay yourself

first—by automatically allocating a portion of your income to savings—can support the development of your financial health. Community Choice members can leverage savings Targets to automate monthly contributions to specific funds or goals. Additionally, e-Banking facilitates automatic bill payments and check deposits via mobile phones. Community Choice’s app can even help you generate a budget. “You want to consider both your next savings goal and longer-term goals as well,” says McMacken. “Paying yourself first is the first principle of Choice Map, which can put you on the path to the life you desire.”

Boost your credit score. A solid credit score not only increases your chances of loan approval but also secures lower interest rates and higher credit limits.

Community Choice’s personal advisors collaborate with members to enhance or maintain their credit scores. This is important because credit cards and loans are a normal part of a healthy financial mix. “Having a good credit score allows you more flexibility,” explains McMacken, “and it makes borrowing more affordable.” Community Choice members also have complimentary access to their credit scores. Simplify your financial management. Simplifying your financial life can save both time and money. Take advantage of convenient services that provide greater access to your financial accounts and streamline the process of managing them. No matter what your savings goal is, utilizing your financial institution’s app, digital banking services, automated bill pay and more can help. Consider consolidating your banking relationships and enrolling in a credit union’s rewards program. Community Choice offers GetBigReward$, which allows members to earn $12 back each month for everyday financial actions, and a rebate of up to 10 percent of loan interest paid each year. “We have many digital tools that can support a stress-free financial plan,” says McMacken. “You can get a lot accomplished just by automating some of your financial activities.” Plan for and protect your future. Beyond your bank balance, financial health includes proper insurance coverage, retirement planning and establishing a will or trust to protect your assets. Consulting an expert can help you navigate your options. Whether you need home, auto or life insurance, loan protection, or help with a will or trust, Community Choice members can access a network of specialized partners for guidance. “We want to arm our members with the information they need, so they can make more informed decisions about their comprehensive financial wellness,” McMacken says. Knowing that financial well-being benefits your mental and physical health is a strong incentive to get your finances in order. Developing a comprehensive, customized plan with the help of a credit union like Community Choice is a great first step toward achieving financial wellness—and a healthier outlook on life. Learn more by visiting communitychoice.com.

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P R E N ATA L F I T N E S S

Om, Baby! Mindful movement helps expecting moms have a healthy pregnancy— body, mind and spirit. by MEAGAN FRANCIS

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rom improved flexibility to increased stamina for labor, birth and the delightfully taxing days of early motherhood, there are no shortage of reasons to keep moving throughout pregnancy. A mindful movement practice like yoga or meditative walking combines energy-boosting physical activity with breathing and increased body awareness, helping overall wellness. Here are some safe, simple ways to infuse your pregnancy with healthy movement: START RIGHT WHERE YOU ARE

News of a pregnancy can be a powerful incentive to pursue a healthier lifestyle—which may tempt you to establish a brand-new exercise regime ASAP. But it’s always a good idea to take it slow at first. “Some women get inspired to begin yoga when they are pregnant, and they don’t realize just how strengthening yoga is. It truly can be quite a workout!” says Naomi Call, a certified yoga instructor, herbalist and nutritionist in Traverse City. Call adds that it’s always advisable to discuss additions or changes to your lifestyle with your midwife or doctor. If you’re pregnant and new to yoga, Call highly recommends attending a prenatal yoga class, where you’ll learn how to practice safely for your changing body. “Often in the second trimester women feel a lot of new energy, and they need to be aware of which movements are appropriate at this point,” she says. >

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P R E N ATA L F I T N E S S TAKE IT SLOW AND STEADY

Movement doesn’t have to be intense to offer benefits, and some of the simplest movements can be the most beneficial. “Mindful walking and breathing are two of my favorite practices,” Call says, pointing out that most people don’t realize how important it can be to simply breathe fully and slowly—all the time, but particularly during pregnancy when a woman is preparing for labor, delivery and new motherhood. Call recommends taking it slow, especially at first. “Less is more, and pacing is absolutely a good thing to learn as a new mom,” she says. “Walking even just twenty minutes outside, with deep breathing and focused positivity, is something most of us can do.” And yoga, particularly a gentle class meant for the prenatal period, “provides opportunities for women to strengthen their pelvic floor, create flexibility in their hips and redefine their emotional and physical center,” Call says. MODIFY MOVEMENT FOR YOUR CHANGING BODY

belly. “What is safe or feels good will absolutely shift with each trimester,” Call explains, and advises pregnant yoga practitioners to pay attention to any signs that they’re moving too fast or doing too much. “Symptoms are sacred messengers,” Call says. “If something doesn’t feel good, don’t do it.” EASE BACK IN AFTER GIVING BIRTH

Typically, active women who’ve had a healthy pregnancy and vaginal delivery are given the green light to start light exercise, like walking, within a few days of giving birth, says Call, but your situation may call for a different transition back to movement. Call advises new moms to take it easy, listen to their bodies and check in with their doctor or midwife before starting to exercise again. Whatever movement you choose, Call says, it’s important to make time for your own wellness as a new mother. With so many hormone changes and new sleeping patterns to contend with, carving out time for you and your emotional and spiritual well-being is as important as your physical well-being. “One of the hardest choices and beliefs for me as a new mom was to trust that caring for myself needed to be my top priority and that if I took time for myself, my child would not only be okay, but that we would all be better for it,” she says. “A simple practice, even fifteen minutes a day, can bring benefits to your body, mind and spirit.”

Less is more, and pacing is absolutely a good thing to learn as a new mom.

From fluctuating energy levels to a shifting center of gravity, pregnancy and postpartum are times of profound change. Call points out that even in an often-gentle practice, like yoga, it’s important to be aware of changes in your body and adapt accordingly. There are a number of poses that are wise to avoid in pregnancy, such as forward bends that put pressure on your

MIND YOUR PELVIC HEALTH This overlooked aspect of women’s health can help keep you pain-free and active. Pregnancy is a body-changing event, so it’s no wonder it can come along with a multitude of physical effects. But if you’ve ever been told that discomforts like incontinence, painful intercourse, chronic constipation or sciatica are just par for the pregnancy course, it may be time to seek a second (or seventeenth!) opinion. An emerging specialty, pelvic floor physical therapy, can help women in all life stages regain comfort and confidence and boost their overall wellness—but its benefits are often realized most dramatically during the childbearing years. “With so many of these symptoms, people will say, ‘Oh, you know, it’ll be fine once the baby is born.’ But a lot of these things actually get exacerbated after the birth process,” says Erica O’Neal, Ph.D., owner of Trailhead Physical Therapy & Wellness in Traverse City. Hip or back pain, poor posture, a weak core and incontinence are just a handful of the conditions that are often overlooked or dismissed as “normal,” but can be treated by restoring integrity to the pelvic floor. During pregnancy, O’Neal focuses on helping women stay pain-free and active during pregnancy by teaching them about their pelvic floor, pelvis and hips and how they relate to the labor and birth process,

as well as how to relax their pelvic floor, since tension can create discomfort and dysfunction. After pregnancy, pelvic floor physical therapy often includes screening for conditions like diastasis recti, a separation of the muscles in the abdomen that’s common after pregnancy, and pelvic organ prolapse, when pelvic organs descend into the vaginal canal. No matter a woman’s stage of life, pelvic floor physical therapy can be a powerful tool for helping restore comfort, body awareness and overall wellness. Addressing pelvic floor dysfunction can also be critical to helping women learn to move safely. “We’re assessing that baseline strength and posture so that when you go to exercise, you know how to correctly activate your core, align your ribs over your pelvis and have great form,” explains O’Neal. While pelvic floor physical therapy has not historically gotten the kind of attention it deserves, the tide is starting to turn. “I really encourage women to advocate for themselves,” O’Neal says. “Understand that while a lot of people, even providers you trust, might say these conditions are normal, they’re not. They’re common, but not normal—and they can be helped.”

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T he Cu l i nary North local restaurants . craft drinks . seasonal cuisine

HYDROPONIC FARMING IN SUTTONS BAY P. 59 THE BUZZ AROUND TOWN P. 60 CRUSHING ON RAMP CREAM CHEESE P. 61 A VIOLET SEASON SIPPER P. 62

Joe’s enthusiasm for the 1,500 tomato plants is infectious—reminiscent of a proud parent.

photo by Sarah Peschel

—FOOD STYLIST & WRITER SARAH PESCHEL

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T he Cu l i nary North Locally Grown

RIPE FOR THE PICKING by SARAH PESCHEL

Step inside the greenhouse at TLC Farms for beefy, beautiful tomatoes.

photos by Sarah Peschel

L

ast summer i found myself at tlc farms, a hydroponic farm in Suttons Bay, in pursuit of green tomatoes for an upcoming photo shoot for this magazine. When I walked through the unassuming greenhouse door, I was greeted with a jaw-dropping array of local goods: vibrant tomatoes ranging in color from red to pale yellow to purpleblack, shishito peppers, kale, cucumbers, herbs, pasta, jams, nuts, cheeses, olive oil. My quick pit stop turned into a tour of the facility with Chicagofinancier-turned-Leelanau-farmer Joe Vanderbosch. His enthusiasm for the 1,500 tomato plants is infectious—reminiscent of a proud parent. And the plants are impressive: By the end of the growing season, the thick vines will reach lengths of up to 40 feet. The secret lies in the hydroponic farming method. This soilless cultivation uses mineral

nutrient solutions in a water solvent, with the plants rooted in perlite. A strict watering schedule—two minutes every half hour—ensures optimal growth and flavor. Vanderbosch’s journey from finance to farming is as fascinating as his tomatoes. His transition reflects a profound shift in career and lifestyle, driven by a desire for something more fulfilling and grounded. Each tomato he sells reflects his care and dedication—and the first fruits of the season will be ready this month (you can get them May through October or early November). The next time you’re in Suttons Bay, I hope you’ll seek out Joe and his juicy tomatoes. I guarantee you’ll leave with your arms full and a smile on your face. —

TLC Farms

4030 Setterbo Rd., Suttons Bay tlcfarmtotable.com M AY 2 0 2 4

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SPONSORED

THE BUZZ AROUND TOWN A taste of the North's craft beverage scene.

TRY A KINGSTON BLACK AT SUTTONS BAY CIDERS

IT’S PALE ALE SEASON AT DEAD BEAR BREWING CO.

The Kingston Black is a small dark red apple that was once grown exclusively in the cider-producing regions of England. Today, it’s a highly favored variety among cider enthusiasts, despite being a difficult apple to grow. “This British native is considered the ‘king’ of cider apples, thanks to its unparalleled flavor profile that is perfect for cider making,” says Madelynn Korzon, who owns Suttons Bay Ciders with her husband, Mark. The Kingston Black has a distinctive balance of bitter-sharp and sweet flavors, with subtle hints of orange zest and woody notes.

Locals love the pale ales being produced by Travis Krebs, owner and brewer at Dead Bear in Grayling. Watch the menu for “T-Dub Fresh,” named after Travis’ son. “It’s got a lot of fresh West Coast–style hops, and it’s really well-balanced with a lot of malt character that stands up to the hops,” Krebs says. The family-friendly brewery and restaurant was just awarded for best burger, best fries and a tie for best fish fry in town by the local newspaper, The Avalanche. Snag a patio seat and taste one for yourself.

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T he Cu l i nary North Bite

L

SPRING FLING by CARLY SIMPSON

photo by Allison Jarrell Acosta

We have a serious crush … on cream cheese.

ast spring, the traverse editors visited Bubbie’s Bagels for lunch, and we’re still talking about the seasonal ramp cream cheese. It’s that good. Sharp-yet-gentle wild-foraged leeks are mixed into Bubbie’s velvety cream cheese, lending an onion-y, springtime flavor that can only be found fresh from the forest floor. Get it on the glorious Green Dream sandwich—packed with cucumber, micro dill, pea shoots and capers—and you’ll be swooning, too. Traverse City’s Bagel King Sam Brickman sustainably forages the ramps himself. “This means only taking the green tops, leaving the bulbs, and just harvesting a couple of leaves from each clump,” he explains. “That way we can make sure there are ramps to harvest for years to come.” Bubbie’s ramp cream cheese is typically available until early June, but it all depends on Northern Michigan’s fickle weather. Brickman is also bringing back a luscious strawberry cream cheese in June as well as mixed raspberry in July. Follow @bubbiesbagels on Instagram for seasonal shmear reveals. Bubbie’s Bagels 1215 E. Front St. bubbiesbagelstc.com M AY 2 0 2 4

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T he Cu l i nary North Last Call

RUNWAY MODEL by STACEY BRUGEMAN

This pre-Prohibition classic is especially good-looking in spring.

A

m i the only one whose mind wanders over to classic cocktails while returning children’s library books? Let me explain. There is a generous patch of wild violets that pops up in front of our teeny, Northern Michigan library each spring. Every time I make a run to the book-return chute during the month of May, those tiny purple flowers hugging the southern bank of the still-chilly Leland River make me think of a preProhibition cocktail called an Aviation. The recipe, which was first published in 1916, includes a curious combination of gin, freshly squeezed lemon juice, maraschino liqueur and crème de violette—an Austrian liqueur made from alpine violets. When made properly, the drink is only faintly purple, closer to an opaque white. While it can be tempting to make it more colorful by increasing the amount of crème de violette, doing so makes the balance too floral—and no one wants to be drinking Grandma’s Crabtree & Evelyn collection. Instead, I wait all year long and save this sultry classic for May, when I can amp up the color by garnishing it with a few of spring’s first flowers. For my take on an Aviation, I skip the traditional cocktail cherry and instead reach into my freshly planted porch pots or wander out to the garden box that is dedicated to perennials and grab a few violets, violas or pansies, floating a few of each on the top of my coupe. I have yet to harvest the patch of wild violets in front of the library, but you do you—wild violets are also edible. Drinkable, in fact. Maybe just ask your librarian if they need a cocktail, too?

Stacey Brugeman is a 20-year food and beverage journalist. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Saveur, Travel + Leisure, Eater, Midwest Living and on Instagram @staceybrugeman. Dave Weidner is an editorial photographer and videographer based in Northern Michigan. Follow him on Instagram and Facebook @dzwphoto. Sarah Peschel, @22speschel, is a stylist and photographer with an appreciation for all things local agriculture, food and drink.

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2 ounces gin ¾ ounces freshly squeezed lemon juice ½ ounce maraschino liqueur Edible wild violets, violas or pansies for garnish Place ice cubes in a coupe glass to chill it. Place additional ice cubes into a cocktail shaker and add gin, lemon juice, maraschino liqueur and crème de violette. Shake until the ingredients are cold. Discard the ice from the coupe and strain the ingredients as you pour them into the glass. Garnish with a wild violet, viola or pansy and serve.

photos by Dave Weidner // styling by Sarah Peschel

scant ½ ounce crème de violette

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Love of the Land

did you know NESTING SEASON After our inland lakes have thawed, the unofficial bird of the North—the beloved common loon— returns to our waters. By May, loon pairs are ready to settle into last year’s nests, but these regal birds need their space—getting too close can be detrimental to their nesting habits. While loons migrate across the country, they only breed in select areas, including waterways throughout the Upper Peninsula and northern Lower Peninsula. Loons are a state-threatened species, making it even more crucial to use what experts call “binocular range” when encountering an active nest. If you see a nesting adult that’s hunkered down, head low to the ground, it’s signaling that you’re too close and it wants to flee. Another sign that you’re intruding: the iconic tremolo call. So next time you’re kayaking and spot a nest, or a newly hatched chick riding atop their parent’s back, keep your distance. If we all respect that springtime boundary, summer will bring even more opportunities for loon family sightings. –A.J.A

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! n o i t a Vac

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SAVOR local culinary scenes

EXPLORE the North’s shores

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YOUR SUMMER STARTS HERE.

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Sundance Named 2023 Michigan Course of the Year Sundance embodies all of the characteristics of the Course of the Year award. The golf course has fostered a vibrant community hub where people can come together for golfing, socializing and events while supporting charitable causes that benefit the broader community. • Jada Paisley, Executive Director of the MGCA

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PA I D C O N T E N T

CHOOSE YOUR NORTHERN ADVENTURE An easy hop across the bridge, Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario has the perfect weekend getaway for travelers of any stripe. BY MEAGAN FRANCIS

A

s Michiganders know, some of our state’s most exciting spots lie north of the Mackinac Bridge. But why stop at just one bridge? The international border dividing Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan from Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario—also known as “The Soo”—is less than an hour from St. Ignace. Once you arrive, the only difficult part will be narrowing down your itinerary—but no matter what your travel style is, there’s an adventure for you here. FOR THE CULTURE-SEEKER: From entertainment to educational experiences to elevated dining, Sault Ste. Marie has plenty to offer those seeking the finer things in life.

> VISIT THE CANAL DISTRICT. This newly restored part of the city centers around a historic paper mill that’s been completely transformed into a dining, entertainment and cultural attraction. The bustling space is a family-friendly spot to grab a bite, sip a bev or catch some tunes.

> GET IN TOUCH WITH THE AREA’S HISTORY. As one of the region’s oldest cities, Sault Ste. Marie has tons of ways to connect to the people and places that have endured. The Sault Ste. Marie Museum offers permanent galleries dedicated to the regional history of music, marine, sports and more, or the Ermatinger Clergue National Historic Site is home to a fascinating display on the war of 1812.

> CHECK OUT A FESTIVAL.

> TAKE A BITE OUT OF THE FOOD SCENE. Residents on the other side of the bridge know that Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario is the place to go for innovative and elevated dining options—and now you’re in on the secret, too. Stop by Georgie’s Shawarma for its namesake dish, or Ernie’s Coffee Shop for specials like

the souvlaki. With dinner options like Italian at Arturo Ristorante, Asian fusion at Peace or an elegant steakhouse experience at The Mill, you can eat your way through a weekend adventure and never run out of delicious options.

FOR THE OUTDOOR ENTHUSIAST: Cycling, hiking, paddling, climbing: from mini-urbanadventures to wilderness encounters, you’ll find plenty of opportunity to get active outdoors.

> GO FOR A PADDLE. The Sault Ste. Marie area is overflowing with waterways just waiting to be explored by stand-up paddleboard, kayak or canoe. For guided adventures of the Lake Superior Shoreline, check out Forest the Canoe: forestthecanoe.ca; or paddle

photos courtesy of Tourism Sault Ste. Marie

You’ll find theatrical productions, live music, sporting events and classic car shows all summer long. Don’t miss the annual RotaryFest (July 18-20, 2024) which brings vendors, food (including Ribfest, part of Rotaryfest), live music, street performers and buskers, pony rides and a parade to the riverfront Clergue Park. saulttourism.com/events

T R ANORTHERN V E R S EMICHIGAN N O R TSUMMER HERN MICH IGAN 2 2 2024 VACATION GUIDE

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the St. Mary’s River islands (and even travel through the Soo Locks!) via watercraft rentals from the Sault College Waterfront Adventure Centre.

> VISIT A WATERFALL. Just a quick drive from the city you’ll find Crystal Falls, located in Kinsmen Park in the heart of the Hiawatha Highlands Conservation Area. An easy 10-minute walk from the road brings you to the foot of a 59-foot cascading waterfall with various viewing platforms along the way.

> BIKE THE HUB TRAIL. This 25-kilometer, multi-use, non-motorized and accessible trail system links together key cultural, historical and natural points of interest in and around the Sault, including Bellevue Park, the waterfront walkway and Fort Creek Conservation Area. Bike rentals are available July through September; visit hubtrail.com for trail maps and more information.

FOR THE SIGHTSEER: If one-of-a-kind attractions are your cup of tea, you’ll find plenty to keep you looking and learning in Sault Ste. Marie.

> CLIMB ABOARD THE AGAWA CANYON TOUR TRAIN. It’s one of Northern Ontario’s biggest tourism draws for a reason: In this 10-hour day tour, you’ll take in awe-inspiring views of the Northern Ontario wilderness and Canadian Shield from inside a comfortable coach. This 114-mile excursion north includes a 90-minute sightseeing stop at the breathtaking Agawa Canyon, including a 30-minute lookout hike and a walk along the canyon to Bridal Veil Falls. All this, and you’ll be back in the Soo in time for dinner. agawatrain.com

> CRUISE ON THE MISS MARIE. This two-hour, 100-passenger boat tour will glide you through both the American and the

Canadian locks (no passport required.) Daily tours at 10 a.m. and 1 p.m., May through October, with evening tours on select dates. saultlocktours.ca

> VISIT THE CANADIAN LOCKS. The laid-back recreational locks on the Canadian side of the St. Mary’s River are a must-visit, even if you’ve already “done” the locks on the American side. The Ontario locks are free for pleasure boats to use (you can even go through them in a kayak). Visitors can cross over the locks on foot, and even walk across to Whitefish Island, a natural recreation area where you can take in the wildlife. Pro tip: The Soo Rapids (or St. Mary’s Rapids), accessible only from the Canadian side, create a stable spawning environment for fish and is known for some of the best fly fishing in North America.

> FLY HIGH AT THE CANADIAN BUSHPLANE HERITAGE CENTRE. This 1924 Ontario Provincial Air Service airplane hangar is now a museum offering a variety of interactive exhibits devoted to aviation history. Test your mettle in a flight simulator, tour 24 classic bush planes (including a vintage Saunders ST27 passenger plane) and take in a diverse variety of engaging and hands-on exhibits on topics like aerial firefighting, Morse code and more. bushplane.com

Need more help putting together your itinerary? Find a full list of attractions, destinations and a calendar of events at saulttourism.com MYNORTH.COM

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welcome

explore the north … your way! You’ve packed a bag for a weekend ... or a whole summer Up North. Maybe you’re craving a mini getaway in your own Northern Michigan backyard. No matter how you explore this beautiful region, make sure this edition of Vacation! Northern Michigan is always close by. The team at MyNorth.com and Traverse Northern Michigan magazine dish on all the insider info you need to craft your memorable escapes: We guide you to big-water beaches, small-town curiosities, natural wonders and irresistible food and drink along the way.

MAP ILLUSTRATION BY GAIL SNABLE

Wind through fruit and wine country, paddle intimate waterways and immerse in forested trails and stunning natural areas. Kick back in lively downtowns with one-ofa-kind shops and world-class eateries. Savor a summer’s worth of scenic backroad expeditions through lake, dune and river country. Plan magical days in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore and incredible stays on Mackinac Island. Travel the lighthouse-dotted coast from Ludington to the Straits. Catch a sunset over Lake Charlevoix or a plane to Beaver Island. Stroll through Fishtown. Dip a toe into the lush Upper Peninsula. The adventures are endless. Now, start mapping out your Northern Michigan escape ... MYNORTH.COM

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inside

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Vacation !

A MyNorth Media Publication

Cara McDonald

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

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Carly Simpson

ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Allison Jarrell Acosta

PROOFREADER

Caroline Dahlquist

CONTRIBUTING WRITER

Elizabeth Edwards Tim Hussey

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Theresa Burau-Baehr

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS

Rachel Watson

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Julie Parker

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Mike Alfaro Ann Gatrell Julie James Meg Lau Erin Lutke

MARKETING DIRECTOR MARKETING COORDINATOR

92 7 | TRAVERSE CITY Sail the bay, spend a day exploring Old Mission Peninsula, ride horses, eat outdoors and sip local wines right next to the vineyards where the grapes were grown. 35 | BENZIE, MANISTEE & CADILLAC Fall in love with lighthouses, bike scenic trails, float and fish in river country, and experience the craft libations scene. 52 | CHARLEVOIX & CHAIN OF LAKES Have a spectacular beach day, wander and shop in quaint downtowns, paddle the scenic Chain of Lakes and cap it all off with dinner outdoors. 61 | GAYLORD & GRAYLING Wander through towering trees at Hartwick Pines, explore the Big Wild and look for elk, take a dip in a glistening lake and go brewery hopping. 66 | PETOSKEY & MACKINAC STRAITS Hop the ferry to Mackinac Island, stop and smell the lavender, visit Boyne’s epic SkyBridge and linger at this wine region’s many tasting rooms. 79 | LEELANAU Do the Sleeping Bear Dunes, have the best beach day, explore Fishtown, meet sweet small towns and road trip on M-22.

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Ashlyn Korienek Kayla Kennedy

OFFICE MANAGER

EDITORIAL & ADVERTISING OFFICES

415 Cass St., Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 | Fax: 231.941.8391 SUBSCRIBER SERVICES

Visit MyNorth.com/Account to renew your subscription, change your address, or review your account. Please email other subscription inquiries to info@mynorth.com or call 800-678-3416 between 8:30 a.m. and 5 p.m. EST.

Vacation! Northern Michigan, (ISSN10713719) is published annually or bi-annually by Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan, 1 Broadcast Way, Cadillac, MI 49601. Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse Northern Michigan, 415 Cass St., Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $39.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $6.50. All rights reserved. Copyright 2024, Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

COVER PHOTO BY KATE HEADLEY

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MANAGING EDITOR

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traverse city

the up north

insider’s list

Round out your time in the Grand Traverse Bay area with this list of insider-secret fun. by Carly Simpson

You could spend an entire afternoon among the many U-Pick flower farms on Old Mission Peninsula. At Moondance, groups can book a private yoga class then arrange bouquets. Explore the Boardman River Valley by horse on an hour-long guided trail ride at Ranch Rudolph. No experience necessary; a wrangler provides basic instruction and help along the way. The pizza bread at Gallagher’s Farm Market (weekends only) has been a local fave for three decades and counting. The pull-apart loaves are topped with oregano, garlic and basil. Hike Timbers Recreation Area (the loop around Fern Lake is especially pretty) then stop at Moomers for an ice cream flight now and a pint of your favorite flavor for later.

MAP ILLUSTRATION BY GAIL SNABLE

Hang out at Traverse City’s Rotary Square. The downtown gathering space hosts outdoor movies and free symphony concerts throughout the summer. Grab a Short’s microbrew at the refreshment tent, a grassy spot on the lawn and spend a perfect afternoon watching some of the best horses and riders from around the U.S. and the world compete in the 13-week Traverse City Horse Shows at Flintfields Horse Park in Williamsburg.

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a beach for everyone Find just the right stretch of sand and surf for you and yours.

Maple Bay Natural Area

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PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

by Elizabeth Edwards

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IT’S PLAYTIME GREILICKVILLE HARBOR PARK

Treat the kids to a day at Greilickville Harbor Park, where you’ll find a playground, beach, pavilion and modern restrooms with baby changing stations. Bonus: This beach is across the street from the Great Lakes Children’s Museum. PACK A PICNIC BRYANT PARK

At the base of Old Mission Peninsula where Garfield Avenue meets Peninsula Drive, Bryant Park has a playground, picnic tables and restrooms. Bring hot dogs and use the BBQ grills with the fam. IN-TOWN OASIS

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

ACME SHORELINE AT BAYSIDE PARK

Greilickville Harbor Park

This 4-acre universally accessible natural area has 900 feet of frontage on East Grand Traverse Bay in Acme. Amenities include restrooms, a changing area, picnic tables, grills and play equipment, plus this sandy stretch of shoreline is a good launching point for kayakers. Find it on US-31 before the intersection at M-72. PENINSULA PARADISE HASEROT BEACH

A 16-mile drive out Old Mission Peninsula will land you at Haserot Beach with its sandy shoreline on a sweet, protected harbor. A basketball court, playground, picnic tables and bathrooms round out this beach-day hot spot. SUNSET SEEKERS MAPLE BAY NATURAL AREA

PHOTO BY TAYLOR BROWN

Watch for a beautiful white farmhouse on US-31, often surrounded by acres of sunflowers in August, and you’ll know you’ve arrived. This west-facing beach is a part of a 425-acre property protected by Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy. Note, you’ll need to walk a short way (about 0.3 mile) to reach the beach, and the trail is somewhat steep in areas.

Bryant Park

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YOUR LOCAL FAVORITE BARBECUE SPOT RAYAN ANASTOR PHOTO

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SMALL TOWNS BIG CHARM

Traverse City shines bright as a hub of the North’s summertime tourism, but the charming towns that surround are all more than worthy of a visit, whether it’s for their abundant outdoor recreation, shops and eateries, sparkling personality, or D—all of the above.

Downtown Traverse City

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PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

by Allison Jarrell Acosta

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Brys Estate, Old Mission Peninsula

ACME & WILLIAMSBURG Williamsburg boasts plenty of adventures for nature lovers, like Maple Bay Natural Area and Sand Lakes Quiet Area. In Acme, launch kayaks, swim or walk the beach along the universally accessible Acme Shoreline, or head up to Deepwater Point for a hike and a dip. Then stop by Osorio Tacos y Salsas (order the namesake items) or enjoy a brew with a view at Stone Hound Brewing Co. For a memorable meal at sunset, make reservations at Aerie Restaurant & Lounge, perched atop Grand Traverse Resort. Don’t Miss: Traverse City Horse Shows, 13 weeks from June to September

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

FIFE LAKE This picturesque village is brimming with outdoor recreation—take your pick from boating, fishing and swimming, to hiking the 21-mile Fife Lake Loop that’s a part of the iconic North Country Trail. Take a seat at The Loon’s Nest for breakfast, and Fife Lake Inn has you covered for comfort eats (think fried bluegill and smokehouse mac ’n’ cheese). On Saturdays, catch the Fife Lake Farmers Market at the Village Green. Don’t Miss: Best 4th in the North, July 4 INTERLOCHEN Interlochen is celebrated for its world-class art institution: Interlochen Center for the Arts. But this artistic haven also boasts endless natural beauty—from scenic Lost Lake Pathway to popular fishing holes Green Lake and Duck Lake. Head to Bud’s patio for breakfast and Hofbrau for

dinner, drinks and live music, all al fresco. Don’t Miss: Interlochen Arts Festival, June–August KINGSLEY Surrounded by lush forests and bucolic countryside, this family-friendly community is home to the beloved Village Splash Pad at Brownson Memorial Park, just a short walk from Mojo’s Coffee (an iced latte for you, shave ice for the kiddos) and the Kingsley Farmers Market (every Wednesday). Check out Kingsley Local Brewing Co. and the reopened Kingsley Inn. For a hike with unforgettable views—the High Rollaway, about 20 minutes south of town. Don’t Miss: Kingsley Heritage Days, Aug. 22-25 OLD MISSION PENINSULA Take a drive up this pleasant peninsula, and you’ll be treated to idyllic rolling fields, blossoming cherry orchards and verdant vineyards. Be sure to stop at the farm stands sprinkled throughout for just-picked produce and the Old Mission General Store for a cold pop and picnic provisions on your way up to Mission Point Lighthouse. Then cruise the Old Mission Peninsula Wine Trail, where you’ll find 10 award-winning wineries that are giving the West Coast a run for its money. Don’t Miss: Bayshore Marathon, May 25 Discover more things to do in each of these northern towns: link.mynorth.com/towns

MYNORTH.COM

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10dining favorites OUTDOOR

A few of our favorite places to grab a bite outdoors in the Traverse City region. by Carly Simpson

Artisan, Traverse City

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

ARTISAN, TRAVERSE CITY The 177-seat casual fine dining restaurant located inside the renovated hotel Delamar offers several dining areas. Guests are welcomed in the tavern, with its Parisian pewter-top bar and Swedish-farmhouse fireplace surrounded by comfy sofas. The main dining room has a second fireplace (reserve the table right in front for date night). But come summer, seats under the lakeside pergola are coveted. Lounge by the fire, play bocce ball, listen to the waves lapping and always, always, always order the fluffy vanilla cheesecake when it’s on the menu. JOLLY PUMPKIN, OLD MISSION PENINSULA We love the barrel-aged sour ales here, especially when sipped on the shady, vine-covered patio (which is pup friendly). The restaurant is known for its pizzas, but everything here is fantastic, from the Wagyu beef burger with Wisconsin cheddar to the crispy hot chicken sandwich on a toasted challah bun. Don’t skip the curried potato chips to start. They’re a thing of wonder.

H&L SOCIAL, TRAVERSE CITY This rooftop deck and bar at Hotel Indigo has one of the best views in town, hands down. Take the elevator and soak up those Grand Traverse Bay blues (yes, you want to stay for sunset). Open to hotel guests and the public, May through October. LITTLE FLEET & THE COIN SLOT, TRAVERSE CITY Food trucks converge on East Front Street at these downtown hangouts. You could spend your whole vacation tasting your way through each menu: We’re looking forward to trying Juicy Oistre’s seafood at Little Fleet. Both spots often have live music and events, and The Coin Slot also has a stellar arcade known for its vintage pinball machines. ›

Find the complete guide to outdoor dining in the Grand Traverse region: link.mynorth.com/TraverseEats

MYNORTH.COM

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SLABTOWN BURGERS & SLABTOWN COOKIES, TRAVERSE CITY Slabtown, a neighborhood on Traverse City’s west end, was once home to busy sawmills, docks and warehouses. Today, the bayside neighborhood is your destination for some of the best burgers in town. While you’re in the area, stop by the self-serve cookie shed (Venmo or cash) for favorites like Euchre Night (a peanut butter chocolate chip cookie dipped in chocolate, Great Lakes Potato Chips and crushed pretzels). HOFBRAU, INTERLOCHEN The Hoffy has been a gathering spot in Interlochen for nearly 100 years, first as a general store when it was built in 1928 and later as a local watering hole. Today, it’s a year-round destination, especially after a concert at nearby Interlochen Center for the Arts. The garden-like outdoor patio is flanked by a beautiful flower garden and string lights hang overhead. PANGEA’S PIZZA, TRAVERSE CITY With a large two-tier rooftop deck (with views of Grand Traverse Bay, the Boardman River and Front Street) and a bar to boot, Pangea’s has one of the best outdoor dining spaces in Traverse City. The loaded potato pizza is a favorite (bacon, green onions, sour cream, white truffle oil drizzle) as is the Maui Wowie with braised pork, pineapple, goat cheese and BBQ sauce. Have everyone order 8-inch personal pies so you can taste a few. Brys Estate

sip like a local 6 hangouts to love. BRYS ESTATE

Gorgeous upper deck (with bay views), lawn bar and seasonal Secret Garden with thousands of lavender plants.

MARI VINEYARDS

Stunning Italian-inspired winery with stone arches, wine caves, outdoor seating, a fireplace and East Bay panorama.

BOATHOUSE RESTAURANT, OLD MISSION PENINSULA With more than 300 feet of frontage on Bowers Harbor, Boathouse Restaurant is the only waterfront restaurant on Old Mission. The views of West Grand Traverse Bay are breathtaking, especially at sunset. Open for dinner only, the casual fine dining restaurant has an upscale menu featuring oysters, scallops, Wagyu filet and rack of elk. The extensive wine list features 100-plus bottles from Michigan, California, Italy, France and Spain. BARRIO, TRAVERSE CITY The build-your-own-taco menu is as fun as it is delicious—Thai chili tofu with pineapple salsa and cilantro-lime aioli is a winner. The margarita menu has a dozen options—some fruity, some spicy, all superb—and the whiskey menu is extensive, too. Garage doors open up to Front Street and a sidewalk patio. WEST END TAVERN, TRAVERSE CITY Just outside of downtown, this restaurant’s large deck overlooks a busy marina and beautiful Grand Traverse Bay. The elevated pub fare menu has several standouts: sweet fennel sausage pizza, a maple bacon wedge salad, black bean cakes dipped in avocado ranch and grilled Scottish salmon with dill butter and risotto.

EARTHEN ALES

Innovative brews served under the water tower at The Village at Grand Traverse Commons.

LOCO BOYS

New in town, this brewery also serves from-scratch Mexican fare.

TOP PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER // BOTTOM PHOTO BY TAYLOR BROWN

MAMMOTH DISTILLING

Warm and inviting industrial hangout in TC’s trendy Warehouse District. Snag a wooly seat.

TRAVERSE CITY WHISKEY CO.

The downtown stillhouse pours both signature whiskeys and limitededition releases only found here.

Find the complete guide to local sips in the Grand Traverse region: link.mynorth.com/TraverseSips

H&L Social, Traverse City

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ys wa to

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sail the bay Turn your Traverse City vacation into a big, beautiful, blue adventure. by Carly Simpson

Nauti-Cat Cruises

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

1

COMPASS ROSE SAILING CO. Moored in West Bay, Traverse City’s largest private sailing yacht, the Althea, is a classic two-masted yawl with more than six decades behind her. Now owned by Captain Brett Derr, the Althea is moored at Discovery Pier, welcoming guests aboard for charter trips. Sails begin at 1:30 p.m. and 5:30 p.m. Two- or three-hour outings are available, or book an extended custom sail for a special occasion. Up to six passengers can spread out on deck and use the cabin below. Bring along snacks and beverages or ask about catering for your trip.

2

TRAVERSE TALL SHIP COMPANY Traverse Tall Ship Company offers excursions on the Manitou, a replica of an 1800s cargo schooner, similar to those that sailed the Great Lakes and Atlantic Ocean. (If you’re on shore, watch for it in the bay—it’s cool just to see it glide by!) Consider the two-hour brunch cruise or the Moomers Ice Cream Sail. Or, book the classic yacht Scout for a luxurious private cruise for up to six people. You can choose between two-hour or six-hour sails and even book a romantic overnight stay.

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NAUTI-CAT CRUISES You can see the Nauti-Cat from a distance with almost 1,000 square feet of sail propelling her across West Grand Traverse Bay, and because she’s a catamaran, the ship is able to slice through the water with great stability. There’s a cruise for everyone, including during the fireworks shows at National Cherry Festival (it’s the only venue in town that lets you see the show directly above your head) and burlesque shows for ages 21-plus. There’s a cash bar on board and you’re welcome to bring your own snacks. › MYNORTH.COM

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Grand Traverse Bay

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

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GREAT LAKES SAILING CO. Want to sail your own boat? Great Lakes Sailing Co. has a sailing school and a charter fleet. You can cruise the harbors of both Grand Traverse Bays, or if you’ve got a few extra days, go up to Beaver Island, Little Traverse Bay, The Straits or the Les Cheneaux Islands. If you’d prefer to have a licensed USCG captain on board, they can help coordinate that, too.

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INLAND SEAS EDUCATION ASSOCIATION Docked in Suttons Bay, the 77-foot schooner Inland Seas is a schoolship, offering educational (and fun) experiences for kids and adults. A variety of science-themed day cruises lets you hoist the sails, steer the ship and use real scientific equipment to help collect and study fish, microorganisms and water health. MYNORTH.COM

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Your pet deserves

the best

Premium Dog & Cat Food House-Baked Dog Treats

Sail Your True North

Traverse Tall Ship Company TRAVERSE CITY + SAILING ADVENTURES = SUMMER MAGIC!

Schooner Manitou Help hoist the sails or simply relax while cruising the bay! Sails daily from Discovery Pier

Grooming Supplies Leashes, Beds, Collars Knowledgeable Staff Holistic Health Aids

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Create your own adventure from 2 hours to a full day! Personal charters for up to 6 guests

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231-941-2000 13258 S. W. Bay Shore Dr. Traverse City, MI www.tallshipsailing.com

KENSINGTON WEST New Condos 2024

Beautiful main floor living with finished lower level • Total square footage 2,460 3 bedrooms 3 baths • Energy efficient • White oak hardwood floors & carpet Granite counter tops in kitchen & bath • Subway tile backsplash Mudroom & main floor laundry • Attached two car garage Landscaped & underground irrigation • Walkable neighborhood Private park like green space for residents only Presented by The Moon Mohr Team

Lynne Moon 231-218-6667

moonu@charter.net 521 Randolph Street Traverse City, MI 49684

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Your adventure begins at

Where will your adventure lead? 12935 S West Bay Shore Dr #290 Traverse City, MI 49684 MANITOWOC-MARINA.COM l 231-224-6175 2024_SUMMER VG_TC.indd 27

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Private Bass Lake Waterfront 911 Dans Dr, Traverse City $950,000

93 ft of private frontage on all-sports Bass Lake Gorgeous water views Easy walkout waterfront access Built in 2016 Open concept living area 3 bedrooms, 2.5 bathrooms Attached 2-car garage Follow us on Instagram @charlesandreiddetroitpizza

Shared Torch Lake Waterfront 12174 SW Torch Lake Dr, Rapid City $675,000

24 ft of shared frontage on Torch Lake Beautiful water views • Close to the marina! Mother-in-law apartment 4 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms Attached 1-car garage Meticulously maintained

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traverse city

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

road tripping: old mission peninsula With rolling vineyards and orchards, roadside farm and flower stands, and surrounding big blue bays, the 18-mile cruise up Traverse City’s Old Mission Peninsula is a most worthy day trip. Here are the stops we suggest to our friends. by Carly Simpson

e

arly birds, you’re going to start at the base of the peninsula and catch a sunrise at East Bay Park. Stop for Bubbie’s Bagels afterward on Front Street—the seasonal cream cheeses made with local produce are primo: watch for strawberry in June and raspberry in July. Did you sleep in? No worries. Relax and enjoy the scenic drive up to Mission Proper, within the Seven Hills community center. The weekend brunch menu gets a chef’s kiss with cinnamon custard French toast, pastrami hash and avocado toast with a drizzle of hot honey. › MYNORTH.COM

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Experience the former Northern Michigan Asylum, with boutiques, restaurants, tasting rooms and more, located just one mile from downtown Traverse City. Guided historic tours available daily. thevillagetc • thevillagetc.com

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PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

Buchan's Blueberry Hill

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

Mission Point Lighthouse

PHOTO BY LYDIA MEJIA

Bonobo Winery

Now, choose your own adventure: Just around the corner is a short but sweet hike to Pyatt Lake or pickleball at Bowers Harbor Park where there are six new outdoor courts with vineyard views. (You can sample the wines made from those grapes next door at Bowers Harbor Vineyards, one of 10 wineries on the Old Mission Peninsula Wine Trail.) Back on M-37, keep heading north to Lighthouse Park at the tippy top of the peninsula. At the end of your drive, you’ll be rewarded with an amble-worthy arc of dreamy beach, a forest full of hiking trails, the historic Hessler Log Cabin and the main attraction: the 1870 Mission Point Lighthouse, a prim white beacon of Great Lakes history that’s open seasonally for self-guided tours of the museum (you can climb to the top of the tower!). After you’ve explored the lighthouse, head south. On Mission Road, you’ll find the 1842 Dougherty Mission House (open seasonally for tours), where Old Mission Peninsula earned its name, and the old-timey Old Mission General Store, a purveyor of penny candy, gourmet deli delights as well as pizza and fresh-made subs. Dating to the mid 1800s, it’s one of the state’s oldest general stores. You’ll pass lots of farm-stand goodies as you head south on Center Road (cherries and lavender in July; blueberries and sunflowers in late July and August). Pick a bouquet at Old Mission Flowers, a self-serve cutting garden open dawn to dusk, or stop at The Farm at Cherry Hill where you’ll find beautiful arrangements ready to go in the roadside stand. Buchan’s Blueberry Hill on Nelson Road is a beloved, 100-year-old fixture on the peninsula. If you miss U-Pick season, do still stop for ice cream (blueberry, of course, but also inspired flavors like Old Mission apple pie, lemon poppy seed and lavender) and the gift shop stocked with homemade jams, jellies, granola and more made from scratch. Top it all off with gorgeous sunset views over West Grand Traverse Bay at the Center Road Scenic Overlook, and know that you’ve experienced a perfect day Up North.

es,

MYNORTH.COM

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ADVENTURE NORTH

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benzie, manistee & cadillac

the up north

insider’s list

Get up close and personal with this coastal region from Benzie County to Ludington and all the forests, lakes and rivers in between. by Allison Jarrell Acosta

Send the S.S. Badger off with a wave from Stearns Park in Ludington as it sails for Wisconsin at 9 a.m. every summer morning. Or hop aboard for a shoreline cruise. Orchard Beach Aviation in Manistee offers aerial tours of the coast. On truly bluebird days, some sightseers can spot Lake Michigan shipwrecks from the air. Go ORV/ATVing in Cadillac and enjoy mixed terrain and beautiful forested views. For navigation, check out the Cadillac Area ORV Scenic Ride Map, and don’t miss Free ORV Weekend June 8–9. Order the cheeseburger pizza at Papa J’s Pizzeria in Honor, topped with crisp dill pickles, ground beef, bacon bits and Thousand Island dressing. Just as delicious: the retro-inspired décor. Road trip along scenic River Road in Benzonia, stopping by Gwen Frostic Prints for nature-themed artwork (pick up your own quill and ink). Pro tip: Don’t miss Crystal Lake Alpaca Farm across the street.

MAP ILLUSTRATION BY GAIL SNABLE

Stay aboard the stately S.S. City of Milwaukee in Manistee, a National Historic Landmark built in 1931. Or take a tour of the ship. (If you’re there in October, go for the ghost ship tour!)

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SMALL TOWNS BIG CHARM These towns set out the welcome mat with food, libations, music and fun in the sun. by Allison Jarrell Acosta and Elizabeth Edwards

Discover more things to do in each of these northern towns: link.mynorth.com/towns

BEAR LAKE Rent a boat at Bear Lake Marine and spend the day on the gorgeous sandybottomed lake of the same name. Then find an old-fashioned country store feeling at Wee Bee Jammin’. Don’t Miss: Bear Lake Days, July 12–14 36

BENZONIA Brake on US-31 for margaritas at The Roadhouse Mexican Bar & Grill, stop for house-made ice cream at Hill Top Soda Shoppe, explore the fabulous Benzie Area Historical Museum and challenge the fam at Crystal Falls Mini Golf. Don’t Miss: Sidewalk Sales Day, Aug. 3 BEULAH The beloved Five Shores Brewing, a boutique-filled shopping district, a darling downtown beach on Crystal Lake, acclaimed golf courses nearby and Thursday evening Music in the Park concerts make this a destination town. Don’t Miss: Beulah Art Fair, July 6

PHOTO BY SHELBY SOBERALKSI

ARCADIA Tucked between Lake Michigan and Arcadia Lake, this town is about water sports and beach days. But don’t miss the nationally renowned Arcadia Bluffs Golf Club. Just north on M-22, pull over at Arcadia Overlook, the highest viewing area on the Lake Michigan shoreline, and make sure to work in a hike at the magnificent Arcadia Dunes. Don’t Miss: Arcadia Daze, July 26–28

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CADILLAC Blessed with lakes Mitchell and Cadillac, add a plethora of fabulous walking and biking trails; a bustling downtown home to boutiques, eateries, Owl Eye Coffee Roasters and Clam Lake Beer Co.; a children’s splash pad and a renovated performing arts center. Cadillac pretty much has it all. Don’t Miss: Cadillac Freedom Festival, July 4–8 ELBERTA Find a bountiful farmers market (Thursdays, May–October) and stunning views of Betsie Bay and Lake Michigan—shhh, the beach here is a bestkept secret. Top an Elberta day off by dining outside at the Cabbage Shed. Don’t Miss: Frankfort-Elberta Restaurant Week, May 6–12 FRANKFORT This Lake Michigan harbor town is a favorite thanks to hopping Stormcloud Brewing Company, the Garden Theater, memorable eateries, fun shops, a popular Lake Michigan beach, a lighthouse pier for sunset walks, the picturesque Point Betsie Lighthouse and the main trailhead for the 22-mile Betsie Valley Trail. Don’t Miss: Frankfort Art Fair, Aug. 16–17 HONOR Tucked near secluded sandy beaches in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, Honor is bordered by the Platte River and home to classic Northwoods taverns including Platte River Inn. Pick up BBQ from Jim’s Joint and have a picnic. Then canoe down the Platte. Don’t Miss: National Coho Salmon Festival LAKE ANN Set on the shore of lovely Lake Ann, find an old-fashioned grocery store, the rocking Lake Ann Brewing Company (with a fab pizza place next door,

 Museum Tours 

The Stone Oven) and a downtown beach. Hike or mountain bike the Lake Ann Pathway. Don’t Miss: Lake Ann Brewing Co.’s Summer Music Series, May–September LUDINGTON The car ferry S.S. Badger calls this Lake Michigan harbor town home—hop it to Wisconsin just for fun, but come back to Ludington for the beaches, concerts in the park, Victorian-era shopping district, two historic lighthouses and groovy food. Plus, count ’em, three craft breweries. Don’t Miss: Love Ludington Street Party, June 7 MANISTEE It’s all things Victorian, from history tours through this town’s lumber-era architecture to the annual Manistee Sleighbell Parade & Old Christmas Weekend. But it’s always fine to throw off your corset and dive into Lake Michigan at one of this city’s primo beaches, or belly up to its fabulous pubs, eateries or downtown’s North Channel Brewing Co. Don’t Miss: Manistee National Forest Festival, July 3–7 ONEKAMA This idyllic, slow-mo coastal town has access to both Lake Michigan and Portage Lake. Take in the outdoor Concerts in the Park on Monday evenings July 1 through Aug. 12, and be sure to nose around for some cool finds at MacBeth & Co., a styling home decor shop. Don’t Miss: Onekama Days, Aug. 1–5 THOMPSONVILLE Crystal Mountain, the hub of this rural township, is a top destination for snow sports and summer fun including the Crystal Coaster Alpine Slide. Off-campus, check out Thompsonville’s Up North-style taverns and the hip Iron Fish Distillery. Don’t Miss: Michigan Beer and Brat Festival, May 25

TOURS COMBO LE A AVAIL B

Research Center Tour the Mason County Historical Society and learn how history is saved, the challenges we face in the technological age, and how we preserve and protect thousands of artifacts and archival documents. Discover the key industries and individuals that made Mason County the tourism destination it is today.

Port of Ludington Maritime Museum The Port of Ludington Maritime Museum brings history to life with digital storytelling, authentic images and artifacts, and engaging interactive exhibits that entertain, enlighten, and inspire a deeper appreciation for the region’s maritime history.

Historic White Pine Village Historic White Pine Village offers a living history, family-friendly, fun-filled tour of a late 19th – early 20th-century pioneer village. The Village boasts 30 historic exhibit buildings, including the original 1849 Mason County Courthouse (on the State Register of Historic Places).

MasonCountyMiHistory.org • 231-843-4808

VISIT OUR FAMILY-OWNED FASHION BOUTIQUE WITH MANY LOCATIONS IN MI!

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stretches of sandy coastline This region is overflowing with enough sand and water to fit everyone’s beach-day dreams. Read on to find where to spread your towel. by Chase Edwards

Ludington State Park, Ludington

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PLAY IN A CREEK MOUTH ESCH ROAD BEACH, SLEEPING BEAR DUNES NATIONAL LAKESHORE

Aka Otter Creek Beach, this pretty stretch of shoreline is located near the mouth of Otter Creek, which gently empties into Lake Michigan. Wander upstream looking for wildflowers and crayfish or simply park the cooler and beach chairs and enjoy the Lake Michigan beachfront. From Empire, drive south on M-22 and turn right onto Esch Road. National Park pass required. HIKE AND EXPLORE LUDINGTON STATE PARK

Rent a canoe or kayak from Dune Grass Concessions and explore the marked canoe pathway on Hamlin Lake. Keep your eyes open for waterfowl. Then head out on any of the eight marked hiking trails, stretching 21 miles, or stroll along the sandy lakeshore of Hamlin Lake. Head over to the Lake Michigan side of the state park to jump in the waves, and break for treats at the Lake Michigan Beach House. Bonus: End the day by scrambling up the sand dunes to watch the sunset. PICNIC WITH A VIEW MAGOON CREEK NATURAL AREA

Find a bounty of relatively quiet beaches, a short network of hiking and biking trails, picnic tables and covered pavilions at this 97-acre park on Lake Michigan. The picnic area is on a 150-foot bluff with spectacular views of the water. KICK BACK FRANKFORT PUBLIC BEACH

Watch the surfers who frequent the break here, stroll the pier to the lighthouse, spread your blanket and dash up into the adjacent downtown for provisions. Frankfort has “big, beautiful beach day” written all over it. BEACH HOP CAPTAIN JOHN LANGLAND PARK & ONEKAMA VILLAGE PARK

Can’t choose between big and little lake? In the tiny water-filled town of Onekama, you can have both. At Captain John Langland Park on Lake Michigan, where Portage Lake enters the big lake, enjoy a large sandy beach, pier, gazebos and more. At Onekama Village Park on Portage Lake, find a small beach, play area, picnic tables, restrooms and Papa J’s Ice Cream and Eatery right across the street. FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY KENWOOD HERITAGE PARK

A fabulous family beach on the north end of Lake Cadillac with daytime lifeguards, pavilions, disc golf, a picnic area, playground, boat launch, free parking and restrooms. KID-FRIENDLY BEULAH PUBLIC BEACH

PHOTO BY TAYLOR BROWN

Several hundred feet of sandy frontage await where Cold Creek spills into Crystal Lake near the sweet town of Beulah. Kids can splash in the creek and swim in a marked swimming area. Restrooms onsite, and the shops and eateries of downtown Beulah are steps away. ACCESSIBLE PARADISE ARCADIA SUNSET BEACH

This locals’ hangout is beloved for its sandy stretches, sunset views and mat trail leading down to the beach, making it wheelchair accessible. Enjoy picnic tables, grills, a playground area and restrooms. Tip: Rock hunters who want to wade into the waves should bring water shoes to conquer the rocky bottom. MYNORTH.COM

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Crystal Lake Alpaca Farm & Boutique

Farm

Boutique

May 23rd - Oct. 31st Monday - Saturday 10 AM - 5 PM

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T R I P S

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Animal Park

4807 River Road Frankfort, MI 49635

231 -920-7085

Nov. 1st - Dec. 24th Wednesday - Saturday 11 AM - 5 PM Closed Sundays & Holidays

Second Retail Location at The Grand Traverse Commons in the Mercato

231-325-5622

www.canoemichigan.com

5042 N. Scenic Hwy Honor, MI 49640

Take the third coast with you wherever you go! Your cozy treehouse is located within a beautiful wooded site, sculpted around majestic hills

SHIMMERING BLUE DIAMOND HAND CRAFTED MICHIGAN NECKLACE

Specializing in custom design & designer collections

(231) 714-4705 • TREEHOUSERIDGEMI.COM 40

wexfordjewelers.com • 231-775-1289

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CRYSTAL MORE

MICHIGAN’S PREMIER FAMILY RESORT IS PURE SUMMERTIME FUN. Swim. Bike. Hike. Ride the dual Alpine slide (coming this summer) down the mountain. Take a chairlift back up for an amazing view of three counties. Enjoy the Crystal Spa. Play one – or both – of our 18-hole championship golf courses. And more. Call now to reserve your stay: 866-348-9070. C RYS TA L M O U N TA I N .C O M

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THOMPSONVILLE, MI

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benzie, manistee & cadillac

13dining favorites OUTDOOR

Is there anything better than dining in the sunshine with a fresh lake breeze? by Allison Jarrell Acosta

KETCH 22 FOOD TRUCK At this gourmet food truck parked just north of the Arcadia Marsh trailhead, you’ll find elevated street food at its finest—think mahi sandwiches and smoked salmon dip. We suggest pairing a Northwoods soda with the golden-fried Wisconsin cheese curds.

Blue Fish Kitchen + Bar

ROADHOUSE MEXICAN BAR & GRILL A local favorite for Mexican-inspired cuisine; try the steak fajitas or the Cabo salmon with peach salsa, and don’t forget the freshly made chips and guac. Grab a marg and take a seat in the backyard cantina. CABBAGE SHED This rustic lakefront joint offers a back porch overlooking Betsie Bay, weekly live music and the best fish ’n’ chips around. Also try the buttermilk chicken, burgers and blackened fish tacos, and scope the Irish whiskey collection.

DOCKSIDE INN RESTAURANT Dock your boat and grab a bite and a sip at this gorgeous deck overlooking Lake Cadillac. Favorites include the crab artichoke dip, fish and chips and crab-stuffed walleye. DOS ARBOLES / BIRCH & MAPLE Dos Arboles offers adventurous Mexican cuisine and cocktails, served on Frankfort’s first rooftop deck, across from Betsie Lake. Next door, Birch & Maple (same owners) is known for its from-scratch brunch (get the chicken and waffles), lunch and dinner. THE CHERRY HUT Opened in 1922 as an orchard-to-table business, The Cherry Hut serves up classic dishes including cherry chicken salad, cherry salsa, cherry preserves and, of course, old-fashioned cherry pie. Enjoy a slice with ice cream out on the patio. THE STONE OVEN Come here for darn good mac ’n’ cheese, pizza and a robust sandwich menu. Place a to-go order and take it next door to Lake Ann Brewing for a lively evening of music and brews.

BLU MOON Sushi is the star at this fusion bistro with an open-air deck. Sample some tuna poké or hamachi crudo before ordering up rolls ranging from your basic spicy tuna to creations stuffed with shrimp tempura and eel. LUDINGTON BAY BREWING CO. Enjoy a craft beer brewed on site with your meal—choose from faves like the ‘Kind of a Big Dill’ pizza, house mac ’n’ cheese, shrimp po boy or lobster roll (get the Cajun fries). BLUE FISH KITCHEN + BAR Soak in the view with front-row seats along the Manistee River. This downtown restaurant with a riverside deck specializes in dishes like hand-cut steaks and Great Lakes whitefish and walleye. YELLOW DOG CAFÉ This charming café boasts a menu brimming with coffee and espresso drinks, freshly baked pastries (try the scones) and delish sammies. Don’t skip breakfast faves like the burritos and frittatas. GENO’S SPORTS BAR & GRILL You’ll find burgers, broasted chicken, pizza and bar food galore at this quintessential Up North tavern. And, unsurprisingly, Geno’s chill neighborhood haunt also has a pool table and a jukebox. Vintage pub perfection.

Find the complete guide to outdoor dining in the Benzie, Manistee & Cadillac regions: link.mynorth.com/BenzieBites

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PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

AFTER 26 DEPOT CAFÉ This casual café tucked inside a renovated 1915 railroad depot has a heartwarming mission: to employ developmentally and cognitively impaired adults. Breakfast and lunch selections include staples like build-your-own omelettes, bacon jam burgers and the wildly-popular Cherry Grove salad.

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r ocks landing food ~ view people ~ rock solid

231-399-0158 rocksoncrystal.com

Houdek’s

Founder of RestroomRestroom Trailers forTrailers Outdoor Luxury Outdoor Weddings & Special Events

sip like a local 6 summer hot spots.

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Portable Fridge & Bar

FIVE SHORES BREWING

Housed in a historic Quonset building with laidback, coastal vibes and a spacious beer garden.

ST. AMBROSE CELLARS & BROSE BREWING

— Celebrating 68 Years — 1956 - 2024

Mead, wine, beer and a full food menu at this family-friendly hangout.

CLAM LAKE BEER CO.

Brewpub with a charming street patio.

STORMCLOUD BREWING COMPANY

Main Street pub two blocks from Lake Michigan. Fab flatbread pizzas and live music.

LAKE ANN BREWING CO.

Rustic tavern with outdoor seating area and stage. Order food from Stone Oven next door and bring it over.

IRON FISH DISTILLERY

Farm-based distillery nestled in the countryside with indoor and outdoor seating, an Airbnb farmhouse, tours by reservation. PHOTO BY LYDIA MEJIA

Hull’s of Frankfort Find the complete guide to local sips in the Benzie, Manistee & Cadillac regions: link.mynorth.com/BenzieSips

Open Year Round Family Owned & Operated Since 1956 419 Main Street, Frankfort | 231-352-4642

REALTOR FOR 45 YEARS

hullsoffrankfort.com

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Rent by the Suite or Reserve the Whole House for 16 people! My stay at Dala House was perfect. I used it as home base for day trips to Franfort, Manistee and Pentwater. I’m sure it’s the cleaniest Airbnb I’ve ever stayed at and the bed was amazing! -August 2023 Suite #5

Treat yourself to a getaway at the Dala House in Onekama! A short drive to Lake Michigan beaches, Arcadia Bluffs Golf Course and Little River Casino

Book now at DalaHouseOnekama.com 4800 Main St, Onekama, MI 49675

231-753-8118

~ Motel rooms ~ Suites ~ ~ Vacation condominiums ~ ~ Indoor pool & spa ~ Deepwater marina ~ ~ Walk to shopping & restaurants ~ Frankfort, MI • 23 231-35 -352 2-9 -961 614 4 www.HarborLightsResort.net

Open 7 days a week at noon

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Full carry-out menu!

Home of Lucilles’ St. Louis style ribs! Served every Thursday from 5 until 9pm

Located 1.7 miles east of Crystal Mountain in Historic Downtown Thompsonville

www.genossportsbar.com | 231-378-2554

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get on the water charter fish

There’s nothing like a day spent on dazzling-blue Lake Michigan waters, or idly floating along our crystal-clear waterways.

With upward of 50 charter boat captains fishing out of a half-dozen marinas between Frankfort and Ludington, there’s a captain ready to get you and your group on the water. These charters go where the fish are—anywhere along the breathtaking Lake Michigan coast from Ludington to as far north as Platte Bay. The boats are equipped with electronic fish finders, GPS, downriggers, radar and some even have autopilot. Remember to pack food, beverages, sunscreen and warm, waterproof gear, and wear layers—it can be very cold on the lake in the morning. And don’t forget your camera! Find your captain: michigancharterboats.com

by Elizabeth Edwards and Allison Jarrell Acosta

surf

Whether you’re a saltwater surfer or a newbie looking to get started, it’s a good idea to get your fresh coast sea legs on before diving into the local surf scene (Frankfort is a popular spot!). That’s why we recommend taking lessons up the coast first at Sleeping Bear Surf & Kayak in Empire. Under the guidance of passionate, patient and proficient instructors, you’ll learn about surf etiquette, how Great Lakes waves work, the fundamentals of a pop-up and techniques for getting in and out of the water. Group lessons are $60 per student and take place at Empire Public Beach on Wednesdays and Fridays from 9–10:30 a.m.

PHOTO BY TAYLOR BROWN

boat

When it comes to spending a sunny summer day boating inland waters, it doesn’t get much better than Crystal Lake in Benzie County and Bear Lake in Manistee County. And with rentals aplenty at both locations, it’s easy to pick a vessel for the day, pack a cooler and enjoy your activity of choice—swimming, fishing, water skiing … the world is your oyster.

And for some of our favorite paddles, head to link.mynorth.com/rivercountry

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ys wa to

5

bike the region From Lake Ann to Ludington, there are endless opportunities for biking through forested canopies and beside beachy panoramas. Here are five of our favorite adventures. by Allison Jarrell Acosta

White Pine Trail, Cadillac

1

LAKE ANN PATHWAY, LAKE ANN The ruggedly lush Lake Ann Pathway was meant for midsummer mountain biking. Nestled in the Pere Marquette State Forest, this 5.8-mile multiuse trail is a network of four scenic loops. In less than a few miles, visitors will discover views of four different lakes, a multitude of scenic overlooks, three bogs and the meandering Platte River. Recreation passport is required. Trailhead is at Lake Ann State Forest Campground, two miles southwest of Lake Ann on Reynolds Road.

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CRYSTAL MOUNTAIN, THOMPSONVILLE Crystal Mountain has everything you need for a day of familyfriendly biking. Grab some rentals for you and the kiddos, then pedal around the quaint village scene and mountainside neighborhoods, or enjoy the single-track serenity of the surrounding wooded grounds. Crystal’s trail also connects to the Betsie River Pathway, which winds for 10 miles along the beautiful Betsie. Bike rentals are available April through October, and rentals are first come, first served. Helmets and maps are provided. Cost: $25 per bike, up to a 2-hour rental for standard bikes, cruisers, mountain bikes, kids bikes, fat tire bikes and burleys. Pre-purchase extra time for $10 per hour, per bike at checkout. PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

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BETSIE VALLEY TRAIL, BENZIE COUNTY This scenic trail extends 22 miles from Frankfort, through Elberta and Beulah, to Thompsonville (following the former Ann Arbor rail line). Our favorite stretch: an 18-mile out-and-back ride from Frankfort to Beulah. It’s great for beginner and intermediate cyclists. (And it’s absolutely gorgeous.) Beginning in Frankfort, enjoy a smooth paved ride for about

six miles, before the trail transitions to crushed limestone (wider tires recommended). Heading into Beulah, you’ll ride along shimmering Crystal Lake, and we recommend a stop at Railroad Point Natural Area for a hike with a view.

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WHITE PINE TRAIL, CADILLAC The sprawling 92-mile White Pine Trail, connecting Cadillac to Grand Rapids, passes through five counties and 15 towns, each with their own singular charm. Along the way, cyclists are treated to dynamic vistas— think tree tunnels, lilied ponds, snaking streams and lush wetlands. You’ll ride beside trillium and other ephemeral wildflowers in the spring and beneath canopies of red and gold in the fall. The section of trail from E 44 Road to Tustin is not to be missed—it crosses beautiful lowlands and wooded areas, dropping down just south of Tustin over a wetland at the headwaters of the Pine River. Be sure to check out the new trailhead at the Cadillac Commons, complete with benches, bike racks, a bicycle repair station and map kiosks.

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CARTIER PARK PATHWAY, LUDINGTON Situated on Lincoln Lake, this trail is an accessible, paved 1.36-mile loop with minimal elevation (aka perfect for families wanting to ride with littles). And if your kids are the adventurous type, they can explore The Dragon—a 3.5 mile natural surface single-track mountain biking trail that zigzags through the contours of the gently rolling woodlands, with lots of banked turns and clever obstacles to keep you entertained. The trailhead for both trails is on the corner of Bryant and Rath Avenues.

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benzie, manistee & cadillac

fall in love with lake michigan’s lighthouses The stretch of shoreline between Frankfort, Ludington and Mears is guarded by six lighthouses, each one a picturesque tribute to the coast’s dramatic maritime history. Make it a point to visit at least one, or spend a weekend exploring them all. by Chase Edwards

Big Sable Point Lighthouse, Ludington

POINT BETSIE LIGHTHOUSE, FRANKFORT

This famously photogenic white, black and red lighthouse, built in 1858, is open seasonally to the public—as are the keeper’s residence, fog signal building, boathouse museum and gift shop. The Stats Towers: 39 feet Steps to the top: 37 Trivia: Point Betsie was the last lighthouse on Lake Michigan operated by a lighthouse keeper; the lighthouse didn’t become fully automated until 1983. FRANKFORT NORTH BREAKWATER LIGHT, FRANKFORT

PHOTO BY TAYLOR BROWN

Take a front row seat on the Frankfort Pier (at the end of Main Street) for fabulous sunsets. The black and white lighthouse, built in 1932 at the pier’s end, ups the ambiance factor. The light itself is closed to the public. The Stats Towers: 67 feet Trivia: A pierhead light, built in 1873 at the outer end of the south pier, preceded the lighthouse and was moved and modified several times before the Frankfort North Breakwater was built in 1932.

MANISTEE NORTH PIERHEAD LIGHTHOUSE, MANISTEE

LUDINGTON NORTH BREAKWATER LIGHT, LUDINGTON

This pretty piece of white-and-black maritime history has been beaming ships into the Manistee harbor since 1872. The grounds are open to the public, but the tower is currently closed.

This lovely little white pyramid-shaped 1924 tower with its bright green light and its half-mile long pier is a main attraction in downtown Ludington. Open seasonally.

The Stats Towers: 39 feet Trivia: The original lighthouse was built in 1870, but was destroyed by a fire in 1871. Within a few days of the fire the lighthouse keeper established a temporary light that was used until the lighthouse was rebuilt.

The Stats Towers: 57 feet Steps to the top: 53 Trivia: The pyramidal shape was designed to deflect Lake Michigan’s powerful waves.

BIG SABLE POINT LIGHTHOUSE, LUDINGTON

The payoff of a two-mile sandy hike to get to this landmark in Ludington State Park is the black-and-white circa 1867 lighthouse with its inspiring view of Lake Michigan. Open seasonally. The Stats Towers: 112 feet Steps to the top: 130 Trivia: In 1949, the Big Sable Point Lighthouse became the last of the Great Lakes lighthouses to transition from lantern and wick to electricity.

LITTLE SABLE POINT LIGHTHOUSE, MEARS

Finished in 1874, the brick Little Sable Lighthouse is set in the sand dunes of what is now Silver Lake State Park. Open seasonally.

The Stats Towers: 107 feet Steps to the top: 139 Trivia: Public demand for a lighthouse on Little Sable Point was finally heard after a schooner named Pride wrecked in 1866—funding for the light was approved in 1871, but construction didn’t begin until 1874.

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charlevoix & chain of lakes

the up north

insider’s list

Make the most of your vacation in the charming Charlevoix region. by Allison Jarrell Acosta

Stop for the bucolic farmstead views, stay for the best breakfast burritos. At Providence Organic Farm in Central Lake, you’ll find homegrown produce, a rotating to-go menu and gorgeous U-Pick blooms. Elk Rapids is an antiquing treasure trove—grab a bite downtown, then hunt for treasures at Blue Owl Antiques, Harbor Antique Mall, Elk Rapids Antiques and The Granary at Seven Gables. Get on the water with Sail Charlevoix; new sailors can dive into classes, or for experienced skippers, enjoy 3-hour boat rentals from 10 a.m.– 3 p.m. on weekdays. Fly or cruise to far-flung Beaver Island. You’ll want to spend a long weekend here—glamp at Beaver Island Retreat, paddle to remote beaches and stargaze from your campsite. Grab the essentials at J. Bird Provisions in downtown Charlevoix— smoked onion dip, pimento cheese spread, a curry chicken salad wrap— and have a picnic at East Park while you soak in the lake views.

MAP ILLUSTRATION BY GAIL SNABLE

Paddle the scenic Chain of Lakes, a 100-mile inland waterway trail with 84 access sites. One such site— Grass River Natural Area—connects Lake Bellaire and Clam Lake and is also home to seven miles of lush wetland trails.

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GRAB N GO FOOD | SNACKS WINE & SPIRITS CHEESE | GIFTS BEVERAGES & MORE 109 BRIDGE PARK DRIVE. CHARLEVOIX, MI (231) 437-3304 | jbirdprovisions.com

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SMALL TOWNS BIG CHARM This region of lakes, rivers, forests and old-fashioned downtowns is made for summer fun. by Allison Jarrell Acosta and Elizabeth Edwards

Grass River Natural Area, Bellaire

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PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

Discover more things to do in each of these northern towns: link.mynorth.com/towns

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Downtown Charlevoix

ALDEN Lovely little Alden on Torch Lake is filled with boutiques, cafés, a specialty spice store, an old-fashioned general store and even a wine bar. A sandybottomed swimming area on Torch Lake is adjacent to the downtown boat launch. Raise a glass to a superb collection of Northern Michigan craft brews at Torch Lake Beer Co. Don’t Miss: Alden Strawberry Festival, June 16

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

BELLAIRE The grand old Antrim County Courthouse presides over this charming town that straddles the banks of the Intermediate River and sits between Lake Bellaire and Intermediate Lake—so yes, think fabulous watersports. Find a lively shopping district and four-season Shanty Creek Resort here. For a small town, the nightlife is hoppin’ with Short’s Brewing Company, Mammoth Distilling, Fireside Lounge and Bee Well Mead & Cider. Don’t Miss: Rubber Ducky Festival, Aug. 16 CENTRAL LAKE This sweet town, located where Hanley Lake meets Intermediate Lake under the bridge, has a true Up North vibe that was kicked up a notch when Mammoth Distilling opened its doors here. Drop by Torch Lake Café for a bite and don’t miss a meal at the stately Blue Pelican Inn—better yet, make it an overnight and grab a room there, too. Don’t Miss: Downtown Parade, July 4 CHARLEVOIX The fabulous downtown on Lake Charlevoix is brimming with galleries, boutiques and restaurants. East Park serves as a hub for outdoor concerts, festivals and farmers markets. With Lake Michigan on one side and Round

Lake on the other, stunning beaches and a first-class marina, this city is for water worshippers. Watching boats pass under the drawbridge is a major pastime here, as is drinking craft beer in front of a drop-dead Lake Charlevoix view at Bridge Street Tap Room. Don’t Miss: Charlevoix Venetian Festival, July 20–27 EAST JORDAN With a bounty of Lake Charlevoix and Jordan River shoreline, this lovely city combines outdoor sports with fun downtown shops and eateries. Check out the Jordan Art Walk along city streets, featuring sculptures created by local artists, then grab a bite and a brew at Foundry Craft Grillery. Don’t Miss: East Jordan Freedom Festival, June 19–23 ELK RAPIDS Wedged between Elk Lake and Lake Michigan, this town is a spot of coastal heaven. Find your place on a golden-sand Lake Michigan beach, browse the boutiques and galleries downtown, explore one of the North’s most beautiful library settings, then fill up at one of this town’s awesome eateries, like the beloved Cellar 152. Don’t Miss: Elk Rapids Harbor Days, July 31–Aug. 3 ELLSWORTH Tucked on the northernmost point of the Chain of Lakes, this charmer of a village on Ellsworth Lake has a public park with a fishing pier, labyrinth garden and Michigan’s largest outdoor public archery range. It also sits at the tip of the Chain of Lakes Water Trail, a 100-mile inland water trail for paddlers, with 84 access sites, restrooms, dining and more along the route. Don’t Miss: Ellsworth Pig Roast, June 14–15 MYNORTH.COM

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beach days two ways From mighty Lake Michigan to sweet inland lakes, the Charlevoix and Chain of Lakes region is filled with an array of shorelines. Find hideaway havens, sandy coasts to soothe your soul and waterside parks with kid-friendly amenities. by Elizabeth Edwards

Michigan Beach Park, Charlevoix

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big water beaches ANTRIM CREEK NATURAL AREA, ATWOOD

To reach this golden mile of Lake Michigan coast, take Rex Beach Road to a two-track that ends at the shore. Walk south along the beach to find where Antrim Creek spills into the big lake. BARNES PARK, EASTPORT

This quarter-mile stretch of Lake Michigan beach is perfect for rock hunting. At the campground, you’ll find a playground, picturesque boardwalks, walking trails and bathroom facilities. ELK RAPIDS DAY PARK, ELK RAPIDS

This area favorite offers big sand, wide Lake Michigan views and great amenities, including darling downtown Elk Rapids close by. WILCOX-PALMER-SHAH NATURE PRESERVE, ELK RAPIDS

For a gorgeous day in the waves or a secluded spot to watch the sun set, visit the Wilcox-Palmer-Shah Nature Preserve. Only a five-minute drive from downtown Elk Rapids, this dog-friendly beach (must be leashed) has sugar-sand dunes and a boardwalk down to the shore. MT. MCSAUBA RECREATION AREA, CHARLEVOIX

A sandy beach on Lake Michigan is threaded with spectacular views, hidden dunes and hiking trails. MICHIGAN BEACH PARK, CHARLEVOIX

There’s something for everyone at this in-town Lake Michigan beach. Enjoy a sandy shoreline, swim area, top-notch rock hunting, a playground, volleyball, pavilion and concessions—all within walking distance of downtown Charlevoix. DONEGAL BAY BEACH, BEAVER ISLAND

Also known as “Sunset Beach” or “Sunset Corner,” this sandy stretch of shoreline on the west side of the island offers incredible views of High Island and is easily accessible by bike. Stick around post-sunset for the dreamy afterglow.

inland lake beaches RICHARDI PARK, BELLAIRE

This sandy swimming area comes equipped with grills, picnic tables, a pavilion with ice cream cones, and other summer treats close at hand in downtown Bellaire. DEPOT BEACH, CHARLEVOIX

Located next to a historic train depot, Depot Beach on Lake Charlevoix is outfitted with paddleboard rentals, a pavilion and restrooms.

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

FERRY BEACH, CHARLEVOIX

Ferry Beach has all you need for a beach day. With a sandy shore, playground, concessions, restrooms, paddleboard rentals and shaded pavilions, it’s a fabulous spot for families to relax and play. TORCH LAKE TOWNSHIP DAY PARK, EASTPORT

Find a pavilion, picnic tables, grills, swimming area and boat access at Torch Lake Township Day Park south of town on US-31.

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charlevoix & chain of lakes

10dining favorites OUTDOOR

Dining al fresco on a sunny day with a picturesque view is a vacation in itself. Here’s your go-to list. by Allison Jarrell Acosta

TORCH LAKE BEER CO., ALDEN Right across from the Torch Lake boat launch, this pub serves up sunset views, patio seating and robust breakfast, lunch and dinner menus—not to mention lots of local brews on tap and an impressive bottle list. Order a burger (the best in town) or try the chicken dill pizza or Plath’s Rajun Cajun BLT. WILD STRAWBERRY CAFE, BEAVER ISLAND Whether you’re looking for a boozy brunch or a berry truffle vinaigrette salad, this new island eatery has you covered. Nestled along St. James Harbor, the cafe features quaint front porch seating and dishes like homemade French onion soup and short rib sammies. DOCKSIDE TORCH LAKE, BELLAIRE Pull your boat up and grab a seat on their sunny Torch Lake–side deck. This laidback waterfront watering hole boasts classic Mexican and American tavern fare, along with colorful cocktails and the ever-popular Bloody Mary.

TORCH LAKE CAFÉ, CENTRAL LAKE Grab a pizza to-go (with options like wild mushroom and buffalo chicken) or catch some live music out on the patio and treat yourself to a sit-down meal. Highlights include homemade soups—bison chili, mushroom bisque and Great Lakes chowder—and from-scratch key lime pie.

THE LANDING, CHARLEVOIX Situated on Lake Charlevoix’s Ironton Cove, The Landing offers lakeside views and delicacies like massive Bavarian pretzels, Asian chicken cashew bowls, local perch sandwiches and Old Bay fries with malt vinegar. Dock your boat and enjoy lunch or dinner on their spacious, laidback deck.

GREY GABLES RESTAURANT & CATERING, CHARLEVOIX This gracious old house-turned-restaurant features scenic outdoor seating with picturesque views of Round Lake. And with an expansive menu—from pizza and salads, to sushi, burgers and chicken marsala—everyone in your group will be as pleased as punch.

FOUNDRY CRAFT GRILLERY, EAST JORDAN The Foundry’s large garage doors open to a spacious patio, where you’ll be treated to elevated pub eats like garlic cheese curds, mussels in a Sambuca cream sauce, “dammm” good burgers and sandwiches stuffed with buttermilk chicken or beer-battered cod. Top it all off with a skilletbaked chocolate chip cookie.

STAFFORD’S WEATHERVANE RESTAURANT, CHARLEVOIX From elegant classics like escargot and planked whitefish to a kid’s menu with mac and cheese and a flatbread pepperoni pizza, Weathervane’s menu makes for a perfect date night or family outing. Best of all, the restaurant sits right on the Round Lake Channel and offers incredible views of passing boats.

RIVERWALK GRILL & TAPROOM, ELK RAPIDS Grab a craft beer and a seat on this waterside deck, nestled along the beautiful Elk River shoreline. Enjoy dishes like cedar planked salmon and lobster rolls while soaking in the view. And for your nightcap? An espresso martini, of course.

Find the complete guide to outdoor dining in the Charlevoix region: link.mynorth.com/CharlevoixEats

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PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

THE BLUE PELICAN INN & RESTAURANT, CENTRAL LAKE The Pelican has something for everyone—Friday night fish fries, shrimp boils, pizzas, fajitas … the list goes on. And their lively tiki bar is where you wanna be on a balmy summer night (especially on Tiki Tuesdays); grab a coconut marg, sit back and relax.

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t a o e h t e d i R to

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sip like a local 5 spots you’ve gotta hit this summer.

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WHISKEY POINT BREWING COMPANY

This Beaver Island gem is Michigan’s first island brewery. Beer, fruit wines, spritzers, light snacks and a gorgeous view of St. James Harbor.

BIER’S INWOOD BREWERY

A Victorian home-turned-brewery with 18 taps, live music and 10-inch pizzas. The large lawn has space to gather with friends; plus, picnic games for the kids.

ETHANOLOGY

Artful cocktails made with hyperlocal ingredients. Expansive courtyard with shaded garden areas and firepits.

TOWNLINE CIDERWORKS

Cidergarden and open-air lawn seating with panoramic apple orchard views. Live music and a food truck on weekends.

WATERFIRE VINEYARDS PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

A Sustainability in Practice (SIP)–certified vineyard with an intimate tasting room and deck.

Find the complete guide to local sips in the Charlevoix region: link.mynorth.com/CharlevoixSips

Saturday, August 10, 2024 Always the 2nd Saturday in August www.charlevoixwaterfrontartfair.org

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gaylord & grayling

the up north

insider’s list

This region is blessed with an abundance of natural resources and hearty, post-adventure eats. Put on your hiking boots—wilderness awaits. by Carly Simpson

Treat yourself to a beach day (or days) at Otsego Lake State Park with its half mile of sandy beach, boat launch and campground. The seasonal park store is the spot to hang, ice cream cone in hand, and watch the sunset over the lake. Known as the Big Wild, Pigeon River Country State Forest is the largest block of contiguous undeveloped land in Michigan’s Lower Peninsula. Stop by the Discovery Center for travel tips—and to ask about elk viewing and the region’s gem-like sinkhole lakes. Wander the paved Old Growth Forest Trail at Hartwick Pines State Park and be awed by towering pines that are centuries old. The 1.25-mile loop is wheelchair accessible. We all know the real star of summer cookouts: brats. The Nowicki family has been making sausage since 1917, serving up irresistible flavors. Swing by shops in Alpena, Gaylord and Rogers City.

Grayling’s Paddle Hard Yard, an outdoor venue made up of shipping containers, has drinks and live music. Just down the block, its older sibling, Paddle Hard Brewing, has Michigan beers and inventive thin-crust pizzas (think Coney dog and mashed potato) worth braking for.

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MAP ILLUSTRATION BY GAIL SNABLE

Rent a pontoon and cruise the Inland Waterway, a 40-mile stretch of interconnected lakes and rivers. The town of Indian River sits in the middle—a great jumping off point. Find rentals at The Landings and Indian River Marina; food trucks and craft beer at Northland Brewing.

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2024 NORTHERN MICHIGAN SUMMER VACATION GUIDE

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SMALL TOWNS BIG WOODS In the heart of the mitten, discover a Michigan you forgot—or didn’t know—existed. Here, rivers, lakes, miles of wilderness, homey cabin resorts and old-timey taverns invite outdoor-based relaxation. by Elizabeth Edwards

GAYLORD This inviting town is the southern gateway for viewing the elk herds that roam Pigeon River Country State Forest. Find a fun alpine vibe thanks to Gaylord’s relationship with sister city Pontresina, Switzerland. With four-season resorts Otsego and Treetops, and surrounded by more than 100,000 acres of state forest, Gaylord is an outdoor sports paradise. Don’t Miss: 59th Gaylord Alpenfest, July 9–13

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

GRAYLING The city that dubs itself Michigan’s most colorful river town sits at the headwaters of the AuSable and Manistee. Add big beautiful Lake Margrethe, a smattering of smaller lakes and miles of forests to Grayling’s attributes and you get the picture: Life here revolves around four seasons of outdoor sports. Standout attractions? The stand of virgin white- and red-pine forest at Hartwick Pines State Park and the annual AuSable River Festival the last week in July. Don’t Miss: AuSable River Canoe Marathon, July 27 INDIAN RIVER This water-loving town is tucked between Burt and Mullett lakes and sits along the 40-mile Inland Waterway. Indian River is also at the convergence of some of the state’s greatest hiking, biking and snowmobile trails: the 75-mile North Central State Trail; the 70-mile North Eastern State Trail and the 32-mile North Western State Trail. Another popular attraction here is the 55-foot-high Cross in the Woods, which bears a seven-ton corpus of Jesus cast in bronze at a foundry in Norway. Don’t Miss: Lighted Boat River Parade, Aug. 9 LEWISTON Thanks to East Twin and West Twin lakes, water makes up nearly half of this Northwoods burg (which is also surrounded by nearly 40 more lakes, all within a short drive). But you’ll also find rustically elegant Garland Lodge & Golf

Resort with its four championship golf courses and fine dining restaurant. There are other great eateries in town, as well as a bowling alley and even a curling rink. Don’t Miss: 40th Annual Elk Festival in neighboring Atlanta, Sept. 27–29 TOPINABEE Find this sweet resort hamlet on the west shore of Mullett Lake, just a few miles north of the inlet to Indian River and the Inland Waterway. Topinabee Beach Park has 400 feet of frontage, grills, picnic tables and play equipment, plus day-use docks for boaters. The park is also home to an 1881 train depot that now houses the Topinabee Library. Don’t Miss: Top O’ Michigan Outboard Marathon Nationals, Aug. 10–11 VANDERBILT You could go to Vanderbilt—the northern gateway to Pigeon River Country State Forest—and never go inside. Find camping, hiking, snowmobiling and horseback riding on miles of nearby trails, as well as canoeing and fishing on the Sturgeon and Pigeon rivers. If you’re biking the cross-state Iron Belle Trail, stop at the pavilion devoted to the trail, located downtown. Don't Miss: Otsego County Fair, Aug. 18–24 WOLVERINE The spunky, fast-moving Sturgeon River runs through this quiet town. Head out on an exhilarating paddle (canoe or kayak) or spend quiet hours casting for a trophy-sized rainbow trout. Don’t Miss: Northern Michigan Lavender Festival at McCormick Farmz, July 19–20 Discover more things to do in each of these northern towns: link.mynorth.com/towns

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gaylord & grayling

7dining favorites OUTDOOR

Dining outside on a sunny day with a warm breeze and a beautiful view is a vacation in itself. Here’s your go-to list.

THE THIRSTY STURGEON, WOLVERINE With the Sturgeon River running through the backyard and the North Central State Trail right out front, this tavern’s deck is a popular stop for kayakers and cyclists. Start with an order of Reuben balls— everything you love about the sandwich, rolled into a crunchy panko-covered bite. THE DUCK BLIND GRILLE, GAYLORD After a day of golf on two PGA championship courses, guests at Otsego Resort settle in to the breathtaking 27-mile vistas of the Sturgeon River Valley. Duck Blind Grille is a multi-year Wine Spectator Award of Excellence winner making the patio a great place to gather with friends and toast the day. BREAKERS, TOPINABEE Diners travel by car, boat, jet-ski, water plane and snowmobile for the true-blue views of Mullet Lake framed by twinkling string lights on Breakers’ patio. The half-pound burgers are a favorite as is the house-smoked BBQ brisket piled on a brioche bun with a scoop of coleslaw or tucked in a taco with horseradish avocado sauce. Find domestic and craft brews on 22 taps. RAY’S BBQ, BREWS & BLUES, GRAYLING What’s better than barbecue and craft beer and live music on the banks of the Au Sable River on a warm summer night? Call us if you think of something. Snag a patio or picnic table and tuck into smoked chicken, spare ribs, black angus beef brisket and corn bread smothered in honey butter. MICHAEL’S TAVERN & STEAKHOUSE, INDIAN RIVER This chef-driven boutique steakhouse and tavern in a renovated 1938 log building has several dining areas, whether you’re celebrating a special occasion with a dry-aged wagyu ribeye or a casual night out with friends. The outdoor bar, Maggie’s Silo, has a beautiful patio surrounded by towering trees. PINE SQUIRREL BAR & GRILL, GAYLORD This family-friendly hometown hangout has a tiki bar next to a softball field. You should expect a good time. Get yourself some deep-fried pickles and cheese curds, then catch a league game or check out the game room. WIMPY’S, GRAYLING This stop is for your sweet tooth. Pull over at the bright red bar for chocolate-dipped frozen bananas, Vernors floats, watermelon slushies, hot fudge sundaes and all the sprinkles you can handle.

Find the complete guide to outdoor dining in the Gaylord and Grayling region: link.mynorth.com/GaylordGraylingEats

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sip like a local 3 can’t-miss breweries while you’re in town PADDLE HARD BREWING

This downtown brewpub celebrates its river country connection with brews like Lazy River IPA, Au Sable River Red and Mud Creek Stout. Take your drink of choice out to the roomy sidewalk patio and pair it with a thin-crust pizza.

BIG BUCK BREWERY

Big brews, big flavors, big stuffed heads on the wall—it’s a vibe. And we think you’ll enjoy it. On the menu, comfort food reigns supreme with potato-andcheese-filled pierogies, smoked beercan chicken and a brewhouse pizza that’s got pulled pork and brisket and bacon. The beer list is just as delicious with brews like Kayak Attack, a honey Kölsch with guava and grapefruit.

SNOWBELT BREWING CO.

Garage doors open up to a small but coveted dog-friendly sidewalk patio. Hearty handhelds include a grownup grilled cheese with ghost pepper jack cheese and Snowbelt’s take on a crunchwrap. The beer list ranges from Lav You Long Time brewed with local honey and lavender to a roasty Trail 7 Stout. Find the complete guide to local sips in the Gaylord and Grayling region: link.mynorth.com/GaylordGraylingSips

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

by Carly Simpson

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petoskey & mackinac straits

the up north

insider’s list

Make the most of your vacation in the charming Petoskey region. by Elizabeth Edwards

Stop and smell the lavender at Lavender Hill Farm in Boyne City. Walking trails wend past a lavender labyrinth, or take a guided golf-cart tour. Eat a pasty in St. Ignace on the waterfront boardwalk, then do the walking tour, stopping at historical markers to learn about everything from courageous voyageurs to shipwrecks. Visit historic McGulpin Point Lighthouse in Mackinaw City, built in 1869 and open daily. Ask about McGulpin Rock, thought to have been discovered five years before the more famous Plymouth Rock. Paddle or cruise the Inland Waterway—40 miles from Pickerel Lake to Lake Huron, if you’re up for the entire route. Stop for Music on Mullett, where bands play on a floating stage on Saturdays. Hop a ferry from Mackinaw City or St. Ignace for a trip to Mackinac Island. Or, get tickets for the popular sunset, lighthouse and 4th of July cruises in the Straits.

MAP ILLUSTRATION BY GAIL SNABLE

Walk the 118-foot-high SkyBridge over the Boyne Valley at Boyne Mountain. Then nosh on pierogies at the SkyBridge food truck.

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SMALL TOWNS BIG CHARM Welcome to the towns (and one island!) of the Petoskey-Mackinac Straits region.

Downtown Petoskey

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PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

by Allison Jarrell Acosta and Elizabeth Edwards

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BAY HARBOR The additions of the Great Lakes Center for the Arts, Mammoth Distilling and Maple + Batter to this waterside district, along with the long-loved Knot Just a Bar, keep Bay Harbor hopping. Don’t Miss: Bay Harbor Classic Car & Boat Festival, June 22 BOYNE COUNTRY This gorgeous tapestry of recreation is woven from Boyne City, Walloon Lake Village, Boyne Resorts and shorelines on both Lake Charlevoix and Walloon Lake. Find fabulous craft beer pubs, boutiques and an abundance of waterside parks, including Young State Park. Don’t Miss: National Morel Mushroom Festival, May 16–19 CHEBOYGAN In this city blessed with Lake Huron and Cheboygan River frontage, view shipwrecks through a glass-bottomed boat with Nautical North Family Adventures, and hike and bike on more trails than in any other county in the state. Entertainment ranges from the restored Victorian-era Cheboygan Opera House to the super-authentic Jack Pine Lumberjack Shows. Cheboygan Brewing Co. has the craft beer scene covered and no one leaves town without eating at the Hack-Ma-Tack Inn & Restaurant on the Cheboygan River. Don’t Miss: Cheboygan County Fair, Aug. 3–10 CROSS VILLAGE & GOOD HART Treat yourself to browsing these quaint towns on scenic M-119, otherwise known as the Tunnel of Trees. In Good Hart, find the Good Hart General Store, Primitive Images, Good Hart & Soul Tea Room and A Studio gift shop. Farther north, in Cross Village, stop at Three Pines Studio and Legs Inn—an authentic Polish restaurant in a cool stone-and-timber building. Don’t Miss: Blissfest Music Festival, July 12–14 HARBOR SPRINGS Beach day in this town? Choose from kid-friendly Zorn Park beach downtown or 300 feet of relatively secluded bliss at Thorne Swift Nature Preserve. Harbor Springs is also the launching point for the scenic M-119 Tunnel of Trees—20 miles of natural beauty. Before you take off, browse the elegant boutiques and relaxed eateries that call this sweet downtown home. Don’t Miss: Little Traverse Yacht Club Ugotta Regatta, July 26–28

Downtown Harbor Springs

MACKINAC ISLAND Take the eight-mile scenic bike ride around the island, go back in time at Fort Mackinac, rock in a rocker on the longest porch in the world at Grand Hotel, gorge on fudge, relax on a carriage tour, sip a cocktail waterside at Pink Pony, snap a selfie at Arch Rock and never, ever get in a car. These are just a few of our favorite things to do on this glorious island. Don’t Miss: 76th Annual Mackinac Island Lilac Festival, June 7–16

BOTTOM PHOTO BY GAIL SNABLE // TOP PHOTO BY DAVE WEINDER

MACKINAW CITY How could you not love a city tucked at the base of the Mackinac Bridge and at the edge of the storied Straits of Mackinac? For the best history lesson ever, visit Colonial Michilimackinac. To see how the cosmos looks from the tip of our beautiful peninsula, visit Headlands International Dark Sky Park. Don’t Miss: Mackinac Bridge Walk, Sept. 2 PETOSKEY For adventure, set your kayak into the whitewater at the Bear River Valley Recreation Area. Get your culture on browsing the exhibits at Crooked Tree Arts Center, or take in a concert in the resort community of Bay View, known for its gingerbread cottages. Wind down in the historic Gaslight District, where the Victorian-era storefronts are packed with fabulous shops, galleries, boutiques and eating/drinking establishments. Don’t Miss: Art in the Park, July 20 ST. IGNACE Learn about the Mackinac Bridge (while you are looking at it!) at Bridge View Park, take the historic walking tour along the Lake Huron Boardwalk to the Wawatam Lighthouse or lose yourself in the silky Lake Michigan sand dunes along US-2. Don’t Miss: St. Ignace Car Show Weekend, June 27–30

Mackinac Island

Discover more things to do in each of these northern towns: link.mynorth.com/towns

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petoskey & mackinac straits

personalize your beach day Craving the endless blue horizon of the big water (temps be damned!), or the warmth and shallows of an inland lake? In this region overflowing with water, there’s always a place in the sand tailored for you and yours.

Petoskey State Park Beach, Petoskey

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SO CLOSE, YET FEELS SO FAR AWAY

PICNICKERS

PETOSKEY STATE PARK

CROOKED LAKE BEACH

This expansive beach on Little Traverse Bay is a slice of heaven smack-dab between Harbor Springs and Petoskey, making it ideal for a swim after shopping in town. Play a game of volleyball in the sand courts, or take a short hike along the park’s trail system for the incredible views atop Old Baldy, a stable dune just behind the beach. Along with enjoyable sands, Petoskey State Park beach offers hiking trails and rentals for bikes, kayaks and paddleboards. Plus, a concession stand for a quick snack fill-up. SOLITUDE SEEKERS THORNE SWIFT NATURE PRESERVE

Right on Lake Michigan, this secret beach is tucked away in a 30-acre preserve. Make sure to check out its hiking trails and boardwalks through dunes and cedar swamps, and there’s even an interpretive nature center kids will adore. STONE HUNTERS MAGNUS PARK CITY BEACH

If you’re on the hunt for Petoskey stones, this is one of the best beaches to add to your travels. It’s also close to downtown for those who want to shop and beach in the same day. Anticipate the cool waters of Little Traverse Bay and about 1,000 feet of shoreline to explore. LITTLE KIDDOS

This quiet, meandering inland lake northeast of Petoskey is part of the famous Inland Waterway—an interconnected series of rivers and lakes stretching from Petoskey to Cheboygan. On the lake’s western edge is the community of Conway, where the Township Park has a bubbling artesian well and a picnic-perfect grassy area, making Crooked Lake Beach one of the best beaches for swimming and sunning. BOATERS BURT LAKE STATE PARK

Snag a campsite and turn a trip here into a vacay. With 2,000 feet of sandy shoreline, shallow designated swimming area and a boat launch, there’s something for everyone. Bonus: It’s close enough to add sightseeing in Mackinaw City and Mackinac Island to your itinerary. BEST KIDDIE BEACH EVER TOPINABEE PARK

This park on Mullet Lake in sweet downtown Topinabee is perfectly outfitted for a beach day with the kids. Find restrooms, a picnic shelter, and a playscape here, and a market and library across the street.

Sturgeon Bay

ZORN PARK

This is a beach perfect for families with its seasonal lifeguards, swimming rafts and sandy bottom. These spring-fed waters are cool and refreshing for a day at the lake. The grassy knoll along the beach is waiting for you to roll out a blanket and enjoy a take-out lunch from one of the eateries just a couple blocks away. FIDO & FRIENDS ZOLL STREET BEACH

Also known as Zoll Dog Beach because it’s one of the best pet-friendly beaches, Zoll is great for picnic lunches while you’re out enjoying Northern Michigan. It has racks to lock up and store your kayak, and up the street there’s a public park with restrooms. Add this one to your pit-stop list if you’re cruising around Little Traverse Bay. EXPLORERS STURGEON BAY

This beach offers around three miles of sandy waterfront to explore. If you’re looking for an uphill challenge, try trekking the sand dunes. After a good workout, the waters will be there to welcome you with their cool, refreshing waves. HOOPS, NETS & SAND PHOTO BY CONNOR GRAY

WALLOON LAKE BEACH

In search of warmer waters? Check out Walloon Lake. It’s not as massive as the bay or the Great Lakes, so it’s great for relaxing and enjoying summer’s heat. There’s even a basketball court, sand volleyball nets and a horseshoe court for those who want to play. Head to Tommy’s Walloon for paddleboard, kayak and other watersport rentals. MYNORTH.COM

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10dining favorites OUTDOOR

Is there anything better than a table in the sunshine and a lake breeze? Check out some of our favorite spots to dine al fresco. by Elizabeth Edwards

NOMAD, BAY HARBOR This industrial-chic restaurant situated right on the picturesque waterfront offers shareable plates like grilled snap peas with kimchi and Korean braised beef bao, a sophisticated wine list and inspired house cocktails.

The Pink Pony, Mackinac Island

CAFE SANTÉ, BOYNE CITY Scoring a table on a summer evening here is a vacation-maker. The view of Lake Charlevoix (just feet away) is stunning, a glass half-wall protects from the breeze and a fire ring adds warmth and ambiance. The superb bistro fare ranges from wood-fired pizzas to moules-frites and the beer, wine and cocktails are distinctly European. PIER M33, CHEBOYGAN This upscale tavern sits right on the slo-mo and lovely Cheboygan River— a part of the 40-mile Inland Waterway—so it’s perfect for boating to. Or come by car. Breakfast, lunch and dinner, Pier M33’s full menu and bar make this a destination.

STAFFORD’S PIER RESTAURANT, HARBOR SPRINGS To really soak up the vibe of this harbor town on Little Traverse Bay, take a table on the deck—which is so close to the pier you’ll feel like you’re on it. As boats of all shapes and styles slide in and out of the harbor, linger over house specialties like seafood chowder, planked whitefish and lobster carbonara.

BEARDS BREWERY, PETOSKEY Feel the buzz of beautiful downtown Petoskey while you’re lounging on Beard’s deck with deep blue Little Traverse Bay splayed out on the horizon.

POND HILL FARM, HARBOR SPRINGS Bring the fam and make it a day at this combination farm, brewery and cafe. After fueling up on a wood-fired pizza on the patio, kids can clamor up the climbing wall and feed the farm animals.

THE GANGPLANK, ST. IGNACE Sip a fish bowl (an actual fish bowl filled with rum, vodka, blue Curacao and other yummies) on the covered porch as you watch the ferries come and go from Mackinac Island across the Straits.

PINK PONY, MACKINAC ISLAND For 75 years and counting, the Pink Pony has been the place to hang out on Mackinac Island. Snag a table under a pink umbrella harborside and watch the ferries come and go as you graze on upscale tavern fare. May we suggest starting with the Famous Island Rum Runner cocktail.

BARREL BACK RESTAURANT, WALLOON LAKE Beginning Memorial Day, Barrel Back opens up the dock bar on the water overlooking Walloon Lake—and steps away from the Barrel Back Food Truck. Fuel up at the truck then hit the dock bar for beverages. Find more open-air dining on the side patio.

Find the complete guide to outdoor dining in the Petoskey region: link.mynorth.com/PetoskeyEats

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PHOTO BY KELLY REWA

LEGS INN, CROSS VILLAGE Be on the lush grounds of Legs Inn when the sun is sinking into the vast Lake Michigan horizon that spreads from this bluff-top perch and you’ll never forget it. The cuisine revolves around robust Polish dishes—a tribute to the Polish immigrant who built this restaurant of stone, wood and old stove legs trimming the roof.

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family fun

in the mackinac straits From St. Ignace to Mackinac Island to Mackinaw City, treat your kids to pirates, red coats, lumberjacks and more. by Elizabeth Edwards

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

m

ackinaw City is home base for your trip through the Straits. Kids will love sticking around this town to explore Colonial Michilimackinac, an 18th-century fort abuzz with costumed interpreters. See British soldiers giving rifle demonstrations and firing the fort cannon while voyageurs and merchant families offer craft and wood-fire cooking demonstrations. Down the road at Historic Mill Creek Discovery Park, watch a reconstructed sawmill in action, climb the five-story Treetop Discovery Tower, teeter across the forest canopy bridge or fly over the creek on a zip line. Before tucking in for the day, watch real-life lumberjacks in action at the Jack Pine Lumberjack Show, where audience members are divided into rival logging camps and cheer wildly as lumberjacks scale cedar poles, race across floating logs and send wood chips flying. Shiver me timbers! As if riding the ferry to Mackinac Island wasn’t exciting enough, Tuesdays through Saturdays from mid-June to the first weekend in September, you can ride the pirate ship Good Fortune to or from the island. Go ahead and dress up like a pirate for the ride—and bring along your best and loudest “arrrrr!” Beyond regular trips to Mackinac Island, Good Fortune also sets sail on special private cruises. Once you’ve made it down the gangplank, it’s time to rent the fam some wheels because remember, this island doesn’t allow cars. The island bike rentals have everything to outfit a family from tag-a-longs to tandems and children’s sizes. Bigger kids will love biking the 8.2 miles around the island.

Littles might like an out-and-back, but everyone is going to like the trip a whole lot more if it involves taking along freshly made fudge from one of the 13 island fudge shops. Biking is great, but a Mackinac Island Carriage Tour allows a fam to get the lay of the island in style. The fun and informative tours take you from the Surrey Hills Carriage Museum to Wings of Mackinac Butterfly Conservatory, famous Arch Rock and Fort Mackinac. At Fort Mackinac, costumed interpreters transport families back to 1885. Hear the wicked crack of a rifle fired by a 19th-century American soldier and quick-step to the gun platforms to catch a cannon-firing demonstration. In the kids’ quarters, littles can try on soldiers’ uniforms. Wind it all up at the Fort’s Tea Room for the thickest milkshakes you’ve ever tasted. No vacay to the Straits is complete without a trip across the Mackinac Bridge. The Mighty Mac is a wonder of engineering that kids won’t forget. As you set out, wow them with the stats: the bridge is 5 miles long and soars 552 feet in the air, and the roadway is 199 feet above the water! Mighty Mac drops you straight into St. Ignace, where kids can see animals from bear to deer and many others at nearby Garlyn Zoo Wildlife Park, Oswald’s Bear Ranch and Deer Ranch. Solving the gravity-defying mysteries at the Mystery Spot will keep everyone in the family busy, while surveying the Straits from the 200-foot-high Castle Rock might make them dizzy! When the day is done, head to the St. Ignace Waterfront for a slew of fun activities from nightly live music to Saturday evening fireworks. MYNORTH.COM

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leelanau

the up north

insider’s list

Six ways to discover the treasures of the beautiful Leelanau Peninsula. by Elizabeth Edwards

Paddle the Cedar River. The 548-acre undisturbed wetland—known as Northern Michigan’s Everglades— is among the most pristine natural areas left in the state. Pack a picnic and enjoy a leisurely feast of the senses at Bohemian Lavender Farm in Maple City. Don’t skip the lavender cookies with lemon frosting. Climb to the top of the nearly 50-foot Grand Traverse Lighthouse in Northport and soak up those bright blue Lake Michigan views. Discover indigenous Northern Michigan cuisine (think fry bread and wild rice soup) at Raphael Foods’ truck in Peshawbestown. Tackle long and steep Shauger Hill on the Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail with help from an E-bike rental from Empire Outdoors.

MAP ILLUSTRATION BY GAIL SNABLE

Sip an award-winning riesling, Trocken 2022, at Brengman Brothers winery, and discover the joy of local grapes fermented with local yeast.

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leelanau

beach days two ways Want a shore that keeps you close to the buzz and provisions of a downtown? We’ve got you covered! Looking for a more out-ofthe-way stretch of sand? Pack up and we’ll show you the way.

Good Harbor Beach/Shalda Creek, Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore

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PHOTO BY TAYLOR BROWN

by Elizabeth Edwards

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downtown BAY FRONT PARK, NORTHPORT

Located next to the marina in the heart of this beautiful Lake Michigan town, Bay Front Park has that storybook Gilmore Girls (read: Stars Hollow) feel. Find a swimming beach, picnic tables, playground, volleyball court and a gazebo. Get there: From Shabwasung Street (M-22), turn right on Main Street, left on Bay Street. Tip: Head to New Bohemian Cafe for buttery chocolate chip cookies the size of your head! VAN’S BEACH, LELAND

This beach gives you the best of all worlds: soft sand, views of the Manitou Islands, great rock hunting (including the coveted Leland Blue stone) and easy access to the food and drink hangouts of Leland and Fishtown. Find public restrooms at the Leland Marina. Get there: Access at the west end of Cedar Street (turn at Van’s Garage). Tip: Leland’s version of fast food? Premade burgers and fries tucked under a warmer in the back of the Leland Mercantile that are seriously good! EMPIRE BEACH VILLAGE PARK, EMPIRE

Boasting a covered picnic pavilion, playground equipment and adjacency to a pedestrian-friendly village, Empire’s beach is a hub for families making a day of it with its access to both Lake Michigan, small and warm South Bar Lake, picnic tables and bathrooms. Get there: From the blinking light at M-72 and M-22 head down Front Street, turn right where it Ts, then left on Niagara. Tip: Stop at Shipwreck Cafe for to-go sammies.

Densmore Road, five miles south of the Leelanau State Park campground. Once you park your car, you’ll need to hike about a mile along the Lake Michigan Trail/Cathead Spur to reach the beach. Tip: No dogs, please— the area is home to the protected piping plover. But do bring your bucket, because this beach is a rock hound’s dream. CHRISTMAS COVE, NORTHPORT

This half-moon stretch of sandy beach near the tip of the Leelanau Peninsula is a township park. A short downhill path leads to Lake Michigan nirvana. Some parking and pit toilets are available. Get there: From Northport, head north on CR-201 (N. Mill Street) for 1.5 miles. Jog left on N. Kilcherman Road until it turns into E. Christmas Cove Road. The beach is a mile down the way. Tip: Make a stop at Bells of Christmas, a farm market and Christmas store, for fresh produce. NORTH BAR LAKE, SLEEPING BEAR DUNES NATIONAL LAKESHORE

Pack a cooler and your beach toys—you’ll want to spend the day here, cooling off in Lake Michigan after basking in the warm water of North Bar, a small inland lake that drains into the big lake. The creek between North Bar and Lake Michigan is perfect for skim boarding. Find restrooms at the paved parking area. National Park Pass required. Get there: From Voice Road, north of Empire, take N. Bar Lake Road to Larahr Road. Tip: It’s a bit of a hike from the parking area to the good stretches of sand; floating your beach paraphernalia on a rubber raft or tube beats lugging it!

LAKE STREET BEACH, GLEN ARBOR

Plop your towels and toys down at three public road ends in Glen Arbor and contemplate the Feng Shui perfection of North and South Manitou islands floating on the horizon of Sleeping Bear Bay. At first glance, the beach doesn’t look huge, but there is plenty of public sand here. Find public bathrooms at two township parks and in the parking area gate house at LeBear Resort. Get there: Where the road stops and the water starts at the end of Bay Lane, South Lake Street and South Manitou Boulevard. Tip: Find ice cream at The Pine Cone downtown. MARINA PARK, SUTTONS BAY

Picnic provisions are within strolling distance of your picnic table at Marina Park where the water is shallow and the sand is like sugar. Settle in by the playground or cross a tiny drawbridge to the quieter south marina, where a natural area draws wild birds aplenty. Get there: Find it on the southeast end of Adams Street. Tip: Fuel up at Roman Wheel Pizza and Subs on St. Joseph’s Street.

off the beaten path

PHOTO BY ANGELA BROWN

GOOD HARBOR BEACH/SHALDA CREEK, SLEEPING BEAR DUNES NATIONAL LAKESHORE

This wide, sandy swath of beach is known as a Northern Copacabana. Views of the Manitou islands on the western horizon and soft sand make this spot perfect for a sunset bonfire. Wait, there’s more: Turn at the Bohemian Road beach and keep going until you see the sign for Shalda Creek, a slow-mo, shallow, sandy-bottomed dream that empties into Lake Michigan. Vault toilets. National Park Pass required. Get there: Take either CR-669 (Bohemian Road) or CR-651 (Good Harbor Trail) off M-22. Tip: Bring floaty toys so kids (and adults) can float down Shalda Creek to its mouth. CATHEAD BAY, LEELANAU STATE PARK

Play Robinson Crusoe on this deserted, 1.5-mile stretch of pristine sand on Lake Michigan. Get there: Access it from the main trailhead at the end of

North Bar Lake

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SMALL TOWNS BIG CHARM

The eclectic towns of the Leelanau Peninsula are all alive with shopping, restaurants, outdoor concerts and more. Here’s your introduction.

Empire

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PHOTO BY MAE STIER

by Allison Jarrell Acosta and Elizabeth Edwards

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The Narrows, Lake Leelanau

LELAND This coastal town shines from its Main Street down to its harbor, where you’ll find the wharf and shanties of Fishtown filled with shopping, food and fresh fish. Book a Lake Michigan charter here or hop the ferry to the Manitou Islands. Dining scene stars include to-go sammies from Village Cheese Shanty, The Cove, Riverside Inn and The Bluebird (showing off a brand-new, from-the-ground-up renovation). Wine taste downtown at Verterra. Don’t Miss: Run for Fishtown 5K, July 20 CEDAR & MAPLE CITY Stop in Cedar for a cuppa joe at Cedar River Coffee Company before discovering the treasures of this tiny shopping district, including L. Saile Jewelry, Wool & Honey yarn shop and the Polish Art Center. The good ol’ Cedar Tavern does pub fare right, but don’t miss the Cedar Sol Taco Stand and Polish Countryside Kitchen food truck. Find killer pizza at Market 22 in Maple City, learn to curl (on an indoor rink) at Broomstack Kitchen & Taphouse or pick your own lavender at Bohemian Lavender Farm. Don’t Miss: Cedar Polka Fest, Aug. 22–25

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

EMPIRE Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore’s Visitor Center is located here, as well as the Empire Bluff hiking trail with its glorious view of Lake Michigan. Browse sweet shops and take a surfing lesson from Sleeping Bear Surf & Kayak. Fuel up at the Village Inn, Joe’s Friendly Tavern and Shipwreck Cafe (hearty sandwiches, but don’t skip the pizza). Don’t Miss: Empire Asparagus Festival, June 1 GLEN ARBOR Set in the middle of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore and on Sleeping Bear Bay, this town exudes outdoor fun. Kayak the Crystal River or bike the Heritage Trail. Discover all things cherry at Cherry Republic, eat a burger at iconic Art’s Tavern (cash or check only), grab coffee and a sammie at The Mill and sip wine at M22 Wine Tasting Bar, Cherry Republic and Glen Arbor Wines. Don’t Miss: Annual Glen Lake Woman’s Club Art Fair, July 17

LAKE LEELANAU Situated on the beautiful Lake Leelanau Narrows, this town mixes a friendly vibe with the buzz of three wine tasting rooms (Amoritas, Boathouse, Soul Squeeze) and Northern Latitudes Distillery. Find fab brunch at Fiddleheads and Indian carry-out at NJ’s Grocery. Grab coffee at Pedaling Beans, try the classic tavern fare at Dick’s Pour House or enjoy the best of both worlds at Nittolo’s Seafood & Pizza. Don’t Miss: Lake Leelanau Street Fair, Oct. 12 NORTHPORT This postcard-perfect town is the gateway to the tippy-top of the Leelanau Peninsula, where you’ll find Grand Traverse Lighthouse, Leelanau State Park and Peterson Park. Indulge in funky activities (bowling at Northport Pub & Grille) and eateries. Standouts: Fingers Crossed, Around the Corner, New Bohemian Cafe and the Mitten Brewing Company. Don’t Miss: Northport Dog Parade, Aug. 10 OMENA & PESHAWBESTOWN In this charming postage stamp–sized town perched on Omena Bay, take a waterside table at Knot Just a Bar or Leelanau Cellars wine tasting room, and stop to U-Pick at Omena Cut Flowers. Find Leelanau Sands Casino in Peshawbestown, the home of the Grand Traverse Band of Ottawa and Chippewa Indians. Don’t Miss: Leelanau UnCaged, Sept. 28 SUTTONS BAY Suttons Bay rocks a hip vibe with its vibrant mix of shops, restaurants (Martha’s Leelanau Table and Wren are highlights) and the communityowned Bay Theatre. The hopping Hop Lot Brewing Co. is just south of town. Find hiking and biking at the edge of town on TART’s Leelanau Trail. And check out Suttons Bay Marina a block from downtown, where the picture-worthy schooner and schoolship Inland Seas is docked. Don’t Miss: Suttons Bay Art Festival, Aug. 3–4

Discover more things to do in each of these northern towns: link.mynorth.com/towns

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Chimoski Bakery of Suttons Bay A small-town bakery that uses some of Grandma’s best recipes.

cherry pie cherry muffins cherry cookies cherry danish cherry donuts ... we are all about eating cherries!

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We focus on providing you with small-town service and customer satisfaction. 720 N St Joseph St, Suttons Bay • 231.271.2207 chimoskibakery.com • 6am-2pm Mon-Sat

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TO KEEPING THE LODGE IN SHIP-SHAPE AND HAVE ALREADY COMPLETED EXTENSIVE RENOVATIONS WITH MORE TO COME. WHY STAY WITH US? OUR LOCATION IS UNBEATABLE, WE HAVE FREE WI-FI, KITCHENETTES, AND WEʼRE PET-FRIENDLY. HOPE TO SEE YOU SOON!

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10dining favorites OUTDOOR

Is there anything better than a table in the sunshine and a lake breeze? Check out some of our favorite spots to dine outside in Leelanau County. by Elizabeth Edwards

Nittolo’s Seafood & Pizza, Lake Leelanau

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

JOE’S FRIENDLY TAVERN, EMPIRE When this beloved restaurant in downtown Empire added a hip new semi-enclosed patio and adjacent open-air eating area last summer, it made a great place even better. Long known for its kicked up classic tavern menu, Joe’s has shown it can run with the Gen Z crowd with, yes, even a Gen Z salad on the menu (goat cheese, arugula, chicken breast and balsamic orange marmalade dressing). But for the nostalgic, you’ll also find a drool-worthy list of real burgers and a genuine diner-style club sandwich. CHERRY PUBLIC HOUSE, GLEN ARBOR A plethora of picnic tables set under towering pines and enough space for kids to let off a little energy while the adults are talking makes this a perfect spot to gather the family. The cherry-smattered menu has something for everyone (even folks who don’t love cherries), from fab burgers to a swoonable Parmesan-encrusted grilled cheese. There’s beer and wine for the adults, ice cream for the littles and live music many nights a week.

LA BÉCASSE, MAPLE CITY A spacious deck is the stage for spectacular summer Happy Hours from 3–5 p.m., Tuesday–Saturday, beginning in June. The wine list is robust and the charcuterie and other appetizers are exquisite. Weather permitting, the deck is open for dinner by reservation. RICK’S CAFE AT THE COVE, LELAND There’s nothing like sitting on the deck at Rick’s Cafe, a Fishtown icon wedged between the dam on the Leland River and the Leland Harbor. Rick’s is the place to watch fish swimming in the river, boats come and go and, at summer’s end, muscular salmon making kamikaze jumps up the dam. The burgers here are great but the real don’t miss is the Chubby Mary: a bloody Mary made with all the fixings—including a smoked chub stuck in tail down. › Find the complete guide to outdoor dining on the Leelanau Peninsula: link.mynorth.com/LeelanauEats

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SUTTONS BAY CIDERS

Hard Cider and Stunning Views

Open late every day during summer

12-8 pm and 11-9 pm on Saturdays Family and dog friendly. 231-271-6000 suttonsbayciders.com 10530 E Hilltop Rd, Suttons Bay

European Style Cafe

Serving both indoors and on our patio, and featuring dinner, beer,wine and cocktails.

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PICNIC SUPPLIES

BREAKFAST, LUNCH, & DINNER

Open 7 days a week 9000 E. Duck Lake Rd (M204) Suttons Bay, MI 231.271.6658 www.9beanrows.com 88

18 challenging holes par 72 Beer, Wine, and Spirits Make your tee time online at www.golftheloaf.com 231-228-2040 Off M22 Between Leland & Glen Arbor • 4512 S. Townline Rd., Cedar MI

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NITTOLO’S SEAFOOD & PIZZA, LAKE LEELANAU You’ll feel like you stumbled into Tuscany when you take a table on this beautifully manicured terrace tucked away in the heart of tiny Lake Leelanau. The food (from pizza to oysters and other luscious dishes) and extensive wine menu at Nittolo’s are always memorable, but paired with this pergola and colored-umbrella setting framed in manicured shrubbery, an evening here is like a mini vacay. Round out the experience with a couple of games of bocce on the adjacent court. SOUTH END TIKI AT PARADISE COVE BAR & GRILL, TRAVERSE CITY Set on the south end of Lake Leelanau this tiny treasure of a place has been a well-kept secret for years. Make it a day trip and cruise in by boat or drive the county’s beautiful rural roads to this outpost that is solidly Leelanau County even though it has a Traverse City address. The menu and drinks are straight-up good bar food and the drinks are in plastic cups. But it’s the tiki atmosphere that is so over-the-top appealing: a watery view, grass umbrellas and super laidback friendly service.

Tandem Ciders

sip like a local 7 hangouts to visit this summer. BLACK STAR FARMS

The 160-acre estate vineyard is home to a tasting room and luxury inn.

BLUSTONE VINEYARDS

Modern tasting room with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the vineyard.

MAWBY

Sparkling wines only at this long-respected winery; find Big Little Wines next door.

ROVE ESTATE

Perched at the highest point on the Leelanau Peninsula with indoor and outdoor seating.

HOP LOT BREWING CO.

TOP PHOTO BY TAYLOR BROWN // BOTTOM PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

Massive four-season beer garden with firepits and picnic tables.

KNOT JUST A BAR, OMENA Everyone should put dining on the deck of Knot Just a Bar on their summer bucket list. Whether you get there by boat (the bar has slips available for customers) or by car, just go. Grab a quick lunch (seven days a week), Sunday breakfast or a linger-worthy dinner. The robust food and drink menus and lively atmosphere never disappoint. On the casual side, order up a Perch Kone (fried perch and fries in a paper cone); on the heavier, ask for the Rasta Pasta—in honor of Ziggy Marley, who once played at this site (when it was the old Harbor Bar). THE MITTEN, NORTHPORT A stone’s throw from the beautiful Northport Marina, this uber-popular brewery has a covered outdoor biergarten outfitted with a big stone fireplace where you’ll find The Big Hot Woody spinning pizza pies. Snag a table with a view of boats bobbing in their slips and take Dan the bartender’s rec for a warm, sunny day and order up a refreshing Mango Gold—kettle-soured wheat beer with loads of mango in it. MARTHA’S LEELANAU TABLE, SUTTONS BAY Dine under a 300-foot pine on Martha’s patio. Decked in lights and lanterns, the ancient tree lends a romantic aura to the restaurant’s backyard seating. There’s also a stage for music (Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays during the summer). If it rains, there’s a sweet covered patio in front with views of Suttons Bay’s main drag. As always, you’ll dine on Martha’s impeccably wonderful farm-to-table cuisine and robust libation offerings. Dining is by reservation only. BLU, GLEN ARBOR Here’s how to score a beachside table on the terrace of this fine-dining establishment. Wake up, check the weather forecast ASAP. If there is no chance of rain through the evening, hop on the restaurant’s website and reserve an outside table—note: reservations for outside dining are dayof only. If it’s possible, time your reservation to catch the sun slipping into Sleeping Bear Bay. Go ahead and bundle up—upscale Blu has a friendly, casual attitude that understands the need for down vests on cool summer evenings.

Nittolo’s Seafood & Pizza, Lake Leelanau

NORTHERN LATITUDES DISTILLERY Complimentary spirit tastings and extensive cocktail menu.

TANDEM CIDERS

A barn-like tasting room with the vibe of a British pub tucked away in orchard country.

Find the complete guide to local sips on the Leelanau Peninsula: link.mynorth.com/LeelanauSips

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WINE + COFFEE LOVERS UNITE

EXCEPTIONAL COOL CLIMATE WINES • EXPANSIVE OUTDOOR DINING • SMALL HOT PLATES

Set on the famous M22 highway just north of Leland, Dune Bird Winery offers expansive vistas, exceptional wine, and the quintessential hillside vineyard ... but Dune Bird is different. In a collaboration of the unexpected, Dune Bird incorporates a craft espresso bar and elevates the non-alcoholic right alongside a menu of incredible, cool climate wines. Small hot plates, later hours, and the hygge-inspired interior invite you to linger and to settle in. Come experience something new. Experience Dune Bird. CRAFT ESPRESSO BAR • KID + FAMILY FRIENDLY • OPEN LATE ON THE WEEKENDS

5620 N. Manitou Trail • Northport, MI 49670 • (231) 613-4100 • info@dunebirdwinery.com Fly along:@dunebirdwinery | dunebirdwinery.com

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get to know sleeping bear Ready to explore the National Lakeshore? We asked park rangers and long-time locals to share their favorite programs highlighting the flora and fauna that call the 71,000 acres of this park home. by Elizabeth Edwards

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TAKE IN A MOVIE

A stop at the Philip A. Hart Visitor Center in Empire is a great way to get acquainted with the park. Browse brochures and watch an educational movie in the comfortable theater. With all of that knowledge under your belt, head to the nearby 1.5-mile hike up Empire Bluff and then on to the 7.4-mile Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive where interpretive signs help you decipher this ancient and undulating topography. DUNE TALKS

Sure, the 284-foot-high Dune Climb is a blast to run down (once you’ve hiked up, that is!). But if you want to know how this ginormous sand pile came to be, you’ll want to attend Dune Talks—a brief, lively, park ranger presentation on how the dune was formed, how it has morphed over the eons and what the heck sand is made of anyway! Find the Dune Talks schedule at the Dune Box located at the base of the Climb. SHIPWRECK RESCUE

Want to see how shipwreck victims were rescued in the days before helicopters and motorized boats? Stop into the Sleeping Bear Maritime Museum (just up the road from the sweet hamlet of Glen Haven) to see the firings of the Lyle Gun—the only cannon ever designed to save lives! PARTY WITH THE STARS

Explore the park after dark with a ranger and members of the Grand Traverse Astronomical Society. Stargazing, meteor showers, sun viewing, story-telling and Junior Ranger activities make for an unforgettable evening. PIONEER SPIRITS

Drop into the Preserve Historic Sleeping Bear headquarters at the Charles & Hattie Oleson Farm on M-22 (open Tuesday–Saturday) to sign up for weekly tours of Port Oneida Rural Historic District, a lovely pastoral area once farmed before the establishment of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. A number of farmsteads have been preserved as reminders of the bygone era. Want to take off on your own? Bike or drive down Port Oneida Road, taking time to meander the dirt roads that bisect this valley—including Lane Road that ends at Port Oneida Beach. Hiking the Bay View Trail (trailhead on Thoreson Road) reveals beautiful farm and lake vistas. But the don’t-miss hike is Pyramid Point, a 2.7-mile trail that climaxes at a bluff overlooking Sleeping Bear Bay and the Manitou Islands. For more authentic pioneer experiences, visit Port Oneida on June 30 for Log Cabin Day and Aug. 9–10 for the Port Oneida Fair when this historic district comes to life with music, crafts, wagon tours, timber framing demonstrations and much more. ISLAND TIME

PHOTO BY TAYLOR BROWN

North and South Manitou taunt from their perches on the Lake Michigan horizon as you travel the mainland coast of Sleeping Bear. These sublimely beautiful, uninhabited islands are accessible only by private boat or the Manitou Island Transit ferry in Leland. You can make a day trip out to South Manitou, but you’ll have to spend the night on North Manitou. To really make the most of your South Manitou visit, make sure to sign up for the motorized tours (the only motorized vehicles allowed on the island) given by the ferry crew.

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10 ways to love up fishtown KISS A CHUBBY MARY

Discover what you get when you cross a Bloody Mary with a smoked chub at The Cove restaurant.

EAT THE COUNTY’S MOST FAMOUS SAMMICH

These mountainous creations made on loafs of pretzel bread at Village Cheese Shanty are legendary.

MEET THE MAKER

A rotating slate of artists and craftspeople turn the Fishtown Art Shanty into their personal gallery throughout the summer and fall.

fishtown The lively scene found in the weather-beaten shanties filled with boutiques and galleries of Leland’s Fishtown belies this century-old enclave’s dramatic history. by Elizabeth Edwards

b

y the 1940s, commercial fishing in the tiny Lake Michigan village of Fishtown was a firmly established livelihood—one dating back to the 19th century. The small industry, however, was never without its peril—especially on a late summer morning in 1941, when fishermen Lester Carlson and his father, Will, loaded their 34-foot wooden fishing boat the Diamond and motored out of the Leland River to the big lake. That day, out in the deep blue triangle between the port and the Manitou Islands, the gas line on the Diamond sprung a leak and ignited the engine. The Carlson’s small fire extinguisher ran out before they could control the fire and with gas still pouring from the line, the entire boat caught fire. Lester only had time to give his father the least burned of the boat’s two life jackets. Burned and already exhausted, Will, 63, and 31-year-old Lester began the long swim to North Manitou Island. Hours passed; the cold numbed their bodies and they had made little headway to the island. After 20 hours in the water, Lester was finally rescued, but his father Will didn’t survive the swim. Like his father and grandfather, Lester’s son, Bill, became a fisherman, working out of Fishtown. By the 1970s, due to invasive species and other factors, commercial fishing in the Great Lakes had declined dramatically and the old shanties were deteriorating. Realizing the structures’ rustic charm and knowing full well the dramatic history they’d seen, Bill gradually purchased all of them and converted them to retail shops, preserving his family’s own Carlson’s Fishery along the way. In 2007, Bill sold the shanties to Fishtown Preservation—a nonprofit organization dedicated to preserving the fishing village’s rich past, as well as its vibrant future. While you stroll this calendar-perfect setting, take time to read the placards scattered throughout Fishtown, bearing short bios and vintage photos of the legendary fishermen, including Will Carlson, who lived and died at the whims of Lake Michigan. 94

PUT JOY IN YOUR SELFIE

The iconic fishing tugs Janice Sue and Joy tied up to the Fishtown dock make irresistible photo ops.

RUN FOR FISHTOWN

Proceeds from the Annual Fishtown 5K (July 20, 2024) benefit the nonprofit Fishtown Preservation.

CHARTER A FISHING TRIP Experience the thrill of hooking a salmon or lake trout on the Big Lake aboard one of the charter boats that work out of Fishtown.

SNAP A DAM PICTURE

The view from the bridge over the Leland River Dam never gets old.

GET A ROOM

Wake up in Fishtown at either Falling Waters Lodge or Fishtown’s own vacation rental, a renovated shanty known as The Otherside.

TAKE A SMOKER BREAK … Be there as the heavy doors of one of the gnarly old smokers outside of Carlson’s Fishery creak open and feast your senses on trays of smoked fish.

…THEN TAKE A DIP

Snag yourself a tub of Carlson’s famous whitefish dip and a bag of crackers and take a seat along the wharf.

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

authentic

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Start your Day with a View of the Bay!

Now Serving Breakfast 6 Days a Week N West Bay Road, Omena, MI 49674 231.386.7393 | knotjustabar.com

SuttonsBayArea.com

Suttons Bay is host to many social events throughout the year. Be sure to check our website for current information. SuttonsBayArea.com/calendar

June 21 Summer Artisan and Wine Walk Aug. 3 &4 Suttons Bay Art Festival Aug. 9 & 10 Sidewalk Sales Oct. 18 Fall Artisan and Wine Walk Oct. 31 Village Trick or Treat Nov. 23 Suttons Bay Friends and Family Nov. 29 Paws and Claus Light Parade and Santa at The Bay Theatre Nov. 30 Small Business Saturday Dec. 3 Giving Tuesday - Peninsula Housing Dec. 6 Celebrate @ The Friendship Community Center Dec. 7 Library Holiday Gala Feb. 15 2025 Yeti Festival

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trip around the horn

leg #1 - Suttons Bay to Northport Begin this stunning swath of scenic M-22 just south of Suttons Bay at Leelanau Cheese where authentic award-winning French raclette is made behind a window. A couple miles north, turn off M-22 at Revold Road to explore the vineyards, tasting room and more at Black Star Farms. Back on M-22, you’ll find a bounty of eateries and boutiques in downtown Suttons Bay. Browse away, but know that this tour has just begun. Cruising farther north on The Horn you’ll come to Peshawbestown, ancestral home of the Grand Traverse Band of Odawa and Chippewa Indians and home to Leelanau Sands Casino. Next up is the hamlet of Omena where your vintage Americana photo op is waiting at the postcard-perfect post office. In Northport, make a quick stop at the Idyll Farms vending machine (tucked near the visitors center in Haserot Park) for a wheel of the best goat cheese you’ve ever tasted, courtesy of the goats raised just up the road. For information on farm tours, check out Idyll Farms’ website.

Cheese, wine, charming villages and stunning scenery are among the delights you’ll find at the tip of this pinky finger–shaped county. by Elizabeth Edwards

leg #2 - Northport to Leland From Northport, follow M-22’s beautiful curves and undulations south, past rocky hills and weathered barns. Fab stops along this leg include the classic roadhouse Fischer’s Happy Hour (broasted chicken and burgers!), Green Bird Organic Cellars for wine and cider, as well as family-friendly Dune Bird Winery. Need to stretch your legs? The 1.5-mile trail system at Clay Cliffs Natural Area leads to a viewing platform 200 feet above Lake Michigan. Back in the car, you’ll be in the harbor town of Leland before you know it. From Main Street to Fishtown, Leland is packed with galleries and eateries as well as Verterra Winery.

PHOTO BY MORGAN TAYLOR

leg #3 - Leland to Suttons Bay

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Just south of Leland turn on M-204, a country highway that takes you to tiny Lake Leelanau where the lush narrows between North and South Lake Leelanau are bordered with three wine tasting rooms (Amoritas, Boathouse and Soul Squeeze), Northern Latitudes Distillery and a handful of wonderful restaurants. Just outside of Lake Leelanau, a cluster of stellar wineries tempt, including Blustone, 45 North and Aurora Cellars. Up the road, brake at 9 Bean Rows for memorable croissants, wood-fired pizzas and fresh produce. You’ll still be munching when M-204 drops you back onto M-22 in Suttons Bay. Headed back to Traverse City? Stop at Hop Lot Brewing Co. for awesome craft beer and barbecue.

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Come Visit Us At Our New Natural Northern Foods Market Stand!

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The Family Birthplace at McLaren Northern Michigan offers a full-service birthing experience. Our unit offers OB triage, labor, delivery, mother-baby, and nursery care 24 hours a day. We have a dedicated team of skilled nurses, obstetricians, pediatricians, and lactation support available to meet your needs and provide a unique birthing experience. Whether you come with a birth plan, a doula, or your family support system, we are here to provide personalized education, physical and emotional support. Come explore our spacious labor rooms with jacuzzi tubs and the bay views from our post-partum rooms. Ask about our Nitrous Oxide options! If you are interested in learning more, call to schedule a unit tour: (888) 248-6777.

mclaren.org/northernob

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