Traverse, February 2021 by MyNorth

Traverse SPECIAL INSERT

Northern Home & Cottage

02.21

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

T RAIL BLAZE TART CONNEC TS US ALL

p.14

A Revival in East Jordan p.26

Finding McKeever Cabin p.12 p.7

Maple Syrup Season

Searching for Jim Harrison

+ Outdoor Libations Bellaire Ski Weekend Bagel Sammies 0221 TVM COVER.indd 1

FEBRUARY 2O21

$4.5O

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Traverse 02.21 INSIDE

F E AT U R E S

MyNorth .com DISCOVER MORE ABOUT UP NORTH, PEOPLE, PLACES, FOOD AND EVENTS.

26 OH BROTHER, WHERE ARE WE? Getting to the remote McKeever Cabin in the Upper Peninsula is half the adventure (the challenging half). The other half is discovering the refuge of warm fires, gorgeous landscapes and Blackrocks beer. TEXT BY CHRIS LOUD PHOTOS BY NICK LOUD

14 | A REVIVAL IN EAST JORDAN The legacy of a beloved general store lives on, as an enterprising family breathes new life into a historic town. BY CHRIS LOUD

20 | TRAILBLAZER TART Trails is connecting us to our communities and each other, thanks, in part, to Executive Director Julie Clark's unwavering passion. B Y H E AT H E R J O H N S O N D U R O C H E R NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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WHERE HOMES FIND THEIR HUMANS Buy and Sell with the Best! Erika Nita, Realtor erika@yourhomecupid.com www.yourhomecupid.com 231.631.2946 Real Estate One 521 Randolph St. Traverse City MI 49684

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DE PART M E N T S 5 | EDITOR'S NOTE

39 | DRINKS

7 | UP NORTH

Igloos, tents, ice shanties—local businesses offer innovative ways to sip craft bevvies outdoors.

Currey Farms Pure Maple Syrup taps into their 16th season on the 320-acre Charlevoix farm. Plus, St. Ignace celebrates its 350th birthday!

10 | FEBRUARY EVENTS

40 | LOVE OF THE LAND The catwalk leading up to Manistee North Pier Lighthouse puts on a sparkling show each winter.

The best of winter: crosscountry skiing, ice fishing and cozy virtual cooking classes.

11 | TRAVEL Looking for a ski weekend getaway that isn’t all about the slopes? Bellaire has something for everyone.

12 | UP IN MICHIGAN A writer and his friend search for famed author Jim Harrison, each in his own way.

33 | DINING

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10 ON THE COVER

facebook.com/mynorthmedia

A dogwalker enjoys a winter stroll along the Leelanau Trail.

instagram.com/mynorthmedia

PHOTO BY GARY L. HOWE

pinterest.com/mynorthmedia

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Traverse NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

Vol. 40 | No. 9

A MyNorth Media Publication PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF CHIEF OPERATIONS OFFICER

SENIOR EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL CONTENT WRITER

Deborah Wyatt Fellows Michael Wnek Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Allison Jarrell Kaitlyn McLintock

PROOFREADERS

Elizabeth Aseritis Caroline Dahlquist

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

Andrew VanDrie Kandace Chapple Kim Schneider Heather Durocher

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Tim Hussey Theresa Burau-Baehr

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS

Rachel Watson Claire Houser Jen Berigan

GRAPHIC DESIGNER WEB DIRECTOR

DIRECTOR OF SALES ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Julie Parker Ann Gatrell Chelsea Harland Meg Lau Rachel Tramel Erin Lutke Kara Jarvis

MARKETING DIRECTOR MARKETING COORDINATOR

MYNORTH TICKETS CUSTOMER SUCCESS SPECIALIST

Emily Oakes Libby Stallman

OFFICE MANAGER

Kim Stewart

BOOKKEEPER

EDITORIAL & ADVERTISING OFFICES

125 S Park Street, Suite 155 Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 | Fax: 231.941.8391 SUBSCRIBER SERVICES

Visit MyNorth.com/Account to renew your subscription, change your address, or review your account. Please email other subscription inquiries to info@mynorth.com or call 800-678-3416 between 8:30 am and 5 pm EST. Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly by Prism Publications Inc., 125 S Park Street, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 125 Park St, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $24.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $4.50. Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2021, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Lake Michigan Waterfront & Acreage

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Paths twist and turn, eager for your next adventure. A clear blue sky stretches on for miles. Hills roll on forever, white with snow. Natural beauty comes into focus and sets the stage for the perfect getaway. And there you are, in the middle of it all. In your element.

C R YS TA L M O U N TA I N .C O M

11/4/20 9:20 AM

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editor’s note

WINTER WONDERS BY DEBORAH WYATT FELLOWS

iving in the time of COVID-19 has reaffirmed the things in our lives that bring joy, keep us sane, bring us peace— some in their absence, some because we can still enjoy them. Being outside brings all those things; this winter more than ever. And as has always been true, it’s about coming back home. This defined my twenties, when I could ski out my backdoor and return to a fire still ablaze in the woodstove. But it became an imperative when we had kids. Our family of four kids close in age has always been at its best in the winter when we get outdoors. My husband, Neal, and I clung to that truth as we stuffed chubby, squirmy legs into snowsuits and rifled through the basket for the dinosaur gloves that my second son, Peter, insisted on wearing for an entire season. The hair at the back of my neck would be damp by the time all four of them sprang or waddled out the door, and as I followed, still pulling on my boots, I reminded myself that the energy spent to make it happen would be rewarded. And, it was. We pulled the toboggan to the mailbox, slid down the driveway on beginner cross country skis, built snow caves in the mounds of snow left by the plow and headed out on expeditions on the vast tundra that is our lake in the winter. There were flaming cheeks, shrieks of excitement, runny noses, and a whole lot of snow-drenched, soggy pieces of mail. And when we finally came inside, the house seemed so safe and cozy, the hot cocoa tasted sweeter, and the little bodies that had bounced about the house like wound up pogo sticks before we went out were content to drape themselves about us on the couch, dreamily reliving our escapades or pondering the fate of superheroes. Then came the glorious era of our lives when all four of our kids were past the stage of needing help with their snowsuits and needed virtually no prodding to get outside in the winter. They yanked hats on impatiently, slid coats over their still bony shoulders that seemed to grow more squared with each passing day, and shoved hands too big for their bodies into whatever mittens they could find. We built our first ice rink in the yard during this era, and they skated before breakfast and were content to skate in circles with me in nothing but moonlight. They attached kites to sleds to slide about the lake and built jumps for snowboards at the bottom of the driveway, completely undaunted by the knowledge that they would have to unbuild them at the end of the day. They usually preferred snowboarding the slopes but learned to love cross-country skiing on the groomed TART trails, and I always said a “thank you” as we flew through the

woods in the winter. There was magic when the snow blew off the lake, and we’d skate on ice so impossibly smooth that their ice pucks skimmed forever with only the smallest provocation, and fish swam lazily through the green water just below our feet. There were shrieks and laughter, always a couple of arguments, moments of discovery, one set of stitches and more than a few acts of bravery. When we came in, there was often still a reserve of energy after the cocoa had been drunk and their smooth, flaming cheeks had settled into a soft rose. Sometimes they’d be off to the next indoor adventure before I’d washed the cocoa cups. Winter outside is quieter now. Even though Neal and I don’t “go” to work yet, we keep a ritual we had from our days spent in offices; cross-country skiing a few times a week at the end of the day because by mid-February there is more than an hour of light left. I still see my close friends, but only on weekly walks on quiet plowed roads and untracked trails. Most often, I walk alone with the dogs. In the early dark hours of winter, I still love the way my heart catches as I turn off the dirt road, onto our driveway, and see the house lit against the pre-dawn sky. Through every era, I’ve welcomed that time of transition—from the quiet of my own thoughts, to what I knew waited in that home drawing me in like a beacon. Now, what waits is a great cup of coffee, content dogs and the lovely, slow start of the day with Neal. But each time I head down the drive, it seems I can still hear the sounds of laughter, the howls, the pure joy of the six of us outdoors in the winter—and back in again. It is a source of unimagined joy to know that even as life evolves and changes, winter always returns. And with it, the joys of winters past fold seamlessly into the chance to discover anew.

Deborah Wyatt Fellows is founder and editor in chief of Traverse Magazine/ MyNorth.com. debwf@traversemagazine.com.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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RANDY’S DINER IS THE PLACE FOR OUTSTANDING BURGERS!

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1120 CARVER STREET, TRAVERSE CITY 231.946.0789

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Up North

Tapping into Maple Season Art and Jan Currey, owners of Currey Farms Pure Maple Syrup, have begun their 16th year of producing one of the state’s sweetest products on their 320-acre farm in Charlevoix. Following four generations of syrup makers, Art proudly carries on his family’s long-standing tradition of syrup making, which his grandfather started on the same land in the early 1900s. Today, Art and Jan produce about 4,000 gallons of syrup from their 8,000 taps each year, placing them in the top 20 of the roughly 500 commercial maple syrup producers in Michigan. We caught up with Jan before this year’s tapping season to hear about what it takes to make it in the maple syrup industry. BY ALLISON JARRELL | PHOTOS BY REBECCA ZAAGMAN

What do you think would surprise people about maple syrup tapping season? How much time and work it takes just to tap. Even though the production season is every spring, there's work to be done all year round in order to be prepared for the intense schedule we jump into once the temps warm above freezing (but still go below at night). Prep for tapping actually starts in the fall. Art gets his exercise by walking through the woods, picking up all the dead trees that have blown over during summer storms and are lying on top of the sap lines. He also looks for breaks in the sap line connections, and repairs as many of the problem areas as he can see. This continues until the first snowfall, and then the woods are left on their own to endure the winter months. In the spring when the weather report tells us the season is about to begin, our team of helpers heads to the woods again. Drilling new holes each year for our 8,000 4

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up north | maple syrup

WHEN OUR CLIENTS SPEAK, WE LISTEN. It’s a simple but effective way of helping people reach their financial goals - and it’s a way of doing business that Raymond James has pioneered for more than 50 years. Make your voice count. Partner with one of our financial advisors and get guidance that’s in tune with your life. LIFE WELL PLANNED. ®

Jeff K. Pasche, CFA Senior Vice President, Investments Western Michigan Complex Manager Susan G. Carlyon, WMS Senior Vice President, Investments ® Wealth Management Specialist James Spencer, ChFC®, AAMS® Financial Advisor Stoops, AWMA Jeff K.JimPasche, CFA®, CRPC® First Vice President, Investments Senior Vice President, Investments ® Jennifer Youker, CFP , CRPC® Traverse City Complex Manager Financial Advisor Dennis J. Brodeur Vice President, Investments Wealth Management Specialist Trevis E. Gillow Vice President, Investments Wealth Management Specialist Susan Carlyon First Vice President, Investments Wealth Management Specialist Keith Carlyon Senior Vice President, Investments

Maggie Beeler, AAMS , CRPC Investment Portfolio Associate

Shelley A. Stefanits Complex Administrator Manager West Michigan Complex Courtney C. Davis Client Service Associate Barbara S. Shellman, MBA Sr. Registered Paul M.Client Bonaccini Service Associate

taps takes six people five days. Since our syrup operation relies on gravity to function best, the tappers have to climb up and down hills, often in the midst of inclement conditions—think deep snow drifts, very cold temps, sleet, rain and thundersnow. What’s the most rewarding part of tapping season? No matter what the obstacles or challenges of tapping time, the best part of it is having our core group of helpers gather again. It's like a reunion of old friends, former teammates or family. Everyone is excited and enthusiastic in anticipation of being able to make syrup again for another year! And when all 8,000 tap holes have been drilled into the trees, the spiles (spigots) lightly hammered in, and the tubing connected, there's a feeling of "well done" that fills the air.

Vice President, Investments Accredited Asset Management Specialist What’s on the horizon for Currey Farms? Tyne Hyslop The byline of Art's personal emails is: "My goal in life is to tap more trees and Financial Advisor make more syrup." He feels extremely Jennifer Youker, CFP®, CRPC®blessed to be able to continue to do this as he enters his 70th year. I know it's Financial Advisor what keeps him going and makes him happiest. There are plenty of trees in Eric H. Palo the maple woods on the farm that can Financial Advisor be tapped in the future. So, Art's plan is James Spencer, ChFC, AAMSto keep making syrup, and my plan is to keep running the business. To help, Art Associate Vice President, Investments has brought in a younger partner who works full time during the production Robert Fenton season. He not only helps tap, manage Financial Advisor the woods and produce the syrup, but

13818 S West13818 Bay Shore Traverse MI 49684 (231) 946-3650 S WestDr Bay• Shore Dr. •City, Traverse City, MI •49684

also has implemented some really helpful changes in technology and efficiency. My niece and her husband took over the website, shipping of retail orders and social media marketing in the spring of 2020. As the years go by, it may take a few more people to keep things going, but we have no plans to stop making maple syrup!

(231) 946-3650 • www.raymondjames.com/Traverse-City ©2015 Raymond James & Associates, Inc., member New York Stock Exchange/SIPC. Raymond James® is a registered trademark of Raymond James Financial, Inc. 15-BDMKT-1770 ME/CW 4/15 Chartered Retirement Plan SpecialistSM, AWMA®, Accredited Wealth Management AdvisorSM; CRPC®, Accredited Asset Management SpecialistSM and AAMS® are trademarks or registered service marks of the College for Financial Planning in the United States and/or other countries. Certified Financial Planner Board of Standards Inc. owns the certification marks Certified Financial Planner™ and CFP® in the U.S., which it awards to individuals who successfully complete CFP Board’s initial and ongoing certification requirements.

Read More For the full Q&A with Currey Farms, plus their favorite maple granola recipe and a video of their maple syrup production process, check out MyNorth.com/Maple Syrup.

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ST. IGNACE CELEBRATES

350

In 1671, Father Marquette established a mission in St. Ignace, making 2021 the 350th anniversary of the city being continually inhabited. Here are a few things you might not have known about the community at the north end of the Mackinac Bridge, the gateway to the U.P. BY CARLY SIMPSON

1. Native Americans lived along the Straits of Mackinac for many generations before the arrival of the first Europeans. The Museum of Ojibwa Culture sits on land that’s one of the oldest native gathering sites in the western U.S. 2. There are six miles of beautiful, sandy beaches on Lake Michigan within the Hiawatha National Forest that are such a hidden gem, they don’t even have a name. One particularly attractive dune area is found eight miles west of downtown on US-2, from Point Aux Chenes to beyond the National Forest boundary. 3. Hiawatha National Forest encompasses 879,000 acres and touches three Great Lakes: Superior, Huron and Michigan. Visit the information center, and find guided nature trails and a Lake Michigan lookout, at the forest’s St. Ignace office on US-2. 4. St. Ignace is home to six of the 30 bird-watching spots along the North Huron Birding Trail (all of which are within driving distance of downtown). The area is an important migratory resting area for 275 bird species, including the scarlet tanager and indigo bunting. 5. Climb craggy Castle Rock, known as “Pontiac's Lookout" by the Ojibwa Tribe, for a breathtaking view that stretches on for 20 miles. 6. With a little luck, if Moran Bay freezes without snow falling too quickly, it turns into a sheet of black ice and you can see to the bottom, including fish swimming around. Ice skating on the bay is a favorite winter tradition for locals, and in February, 180–200 teams from across the world head to St. Ignace for the Labatt Blue UP Pond Hockey Championship. (canceled this year due to COVID-19) 7. The Big C burger is famous at Clyde’s, as are the pasties from Lehto's (order a beef pasty—no gravy). Jose's Cantina and Java Joe’s Cafe are also popular. Downtown, many restaurants have outdoor patios—with views of Lake Huron and its passing ferries and freighters. 8. St. Ignace hopes to celebrate its 350th with a party in August, depending on COVID-19 restrictions. Visit stignace.com for updates on the event and for more information about each of these attractions.

local businesses | up north

A THRIVING REGION It’s impossible to celebrate our 40th anniversary at Traverse without also honoring the small businesses and nonprofit organizations that have supported our mission throughout the years and who make Northern Michigan such a special place to live and visit. Each month we’ll continue to share these important anniversaries in print, and you can find the full list at MyNorth.com/ BizAnniversaries. —A.J. 19 YEARS Saving Birds Thru Habitat, Omena Real People Media, Northern Lower MI & U.P. 18 YEARS Beaver Island Music Festival Leelanau Press, Glen Arbor 17 YEARS Paul Davis Restoration & Remodeling, Traverse City Field of Flowers North, Northport Kitchen Choreography, Traverse City Boyne City Main Street 16 YEARS Monarch Home Health Services, Traverse City Trillium Shore, Elk Rapids Sullivan’s Harbor Springs Airpark Mackinaw Trail Winery, Manistique Short’s Brewing Company, Bellaire 15 YEARS Bay Lavender Trading, Co., Glen Arbor Steel Appeal, Empire Oltersdorf Realty, Suttons Bay Uniquely North, Bellaire Crosshatch Center for Art & Ecology, Bellaire Copper Ridge Surgery Center, Traverse City 14 YEARS Pennington Collection, Northport Peter Dougherty Society (Old Mission House) 13 YEARS Elizabeth Blair Fine Pearls, Harbor Springs Ga Ga for Kids, Charlevoix The Red Dresser, Traverse City 12 YEARS Morsels, Traverse City Blu, Glen Arbor Wee Bee Jammin’, Bear Lake

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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TIX Watch for the MyNorthTix symbol and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

February ED ITE D BY L I BBY STAL L M AN

WED

Michigan Tech’s Winter Carnival started in 1922. This year, organizers are working hard to adjust many of the carnival’s outdoor events to follow current health and safety guidelines. Feb. 3–6. mtu.edu/winter-carnival

SUN

Join The Red Dresser Marketplace and Pieces (both based in Traverse City) for The Big Paint, an international online painting workshop. Learn how to use Chalk Paint® and create a painted tea tray with step-by-step instructions. Kits available for pick up at The Red Dresser. facebook.com/ thereddresser

FRI

12 10

The White Pine Stampede is going virtual. Racers can use the Nordic trails at Shanty Creek Resort in Bellaire from Feb. 1–12, or any favorite trail, to take part in the 10K or 20K classic or freestyle events. whitepinestampede.org

SAT

A Snowball Target Competition and Frozen Fish Toss are just two of the many fun (and wacky) outdoor activities at Beulah’s Winterfest, always the second Saturday in February. clcba.org

SUN

Take your Valentine ... fishing? Heck yes! Two weekends a year, residents and out-of-state visitors take advantage of Free Fishing Weekend (license fees are waived and Recreation Passports are not required for entry into state parks). michigan.gov/dnr

13 14

TUE

Inland Seas Education Association hosts free monthly events throughout the winter. February's virtual ISEA Cafe is "The Psychology of Environmental Stewardship." schoolship.org

THU

Let Oryana Community Co-op in Traverse City take the mystery out of creating a delicious curry bowl with an online cooking class. oryana.coop

16 25

SAT

Browse indoor farmers markets on Saturday mornings at The Village at Grand Traverse Commons from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. or in Boyne City at City Hall from 9 a.m. to noon. Homemade bread, honey, meat, cheese and more! thevillagetc.com; boynechamber.com

SAT

Treetops’ Skiable Feast mixes cross-country skiing with five gourmet food and beverage stations along a 3.8-mile trail at the Gaylord resort. Take this trek at your own pace. treetops.com

F I N D M O R E AT M Y N O R T H .C O M > EV E N T S

photo by Dave Weidner

Please note, as these dates approach, some events may be modified, postponed or canceled to protect the safety of both event organizers and attendees. Check online or call ahead to confirm details. Throughout the year, visit MyNorth.com/Events for current community happenings.

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what to do | travel

SKI WEEKEND FUN

(ON & OFF THE SLOPES!) Looking for a ski weekend getaway that isn’t all about the slopes? Bellaire has something for everyone—lift tickets optional! BY KANDACE CHAPPLE PHOTO COURTESY OF GRASS RIVER NATURAL AREA T

GO AU NATURAL

BIKE SNOWY TRAILS

Tackle the trails at Grass River Natural Area. The 1,492acre nature preserve is located 6 miles south of Bellaire. Along with beautiful views of Grass River, there are 7 miles of trails, including 1.5 miles of boardwalk floating above northern fen and cedar wetlands. The Chippewa, Nipissing, Algonquin and Rail trails are groomed for classic cross-country skiing (3+ miles), while the remaining trails are open to snowshoeing. (Watch for whitetail deer and all kinds of wildlife!) Trails are open daily from dawn till dusk and the Grass River Education Center is open from 10 a.m.–4 p.m. (days vary by season; check online). Naturalists are available to answer questions and take you on a guided hike if you call ahead. grassriver.org

Go fat biking with rentals from Paddles & Pedals in downtown Bellaire ($60/day or $35/4 hours). Get a “fat” selfie at Glacial Hills Pathway on the groomed fat bike loop, then head back to town to pair frosty cheeks with a cold beer at Short’s Brewing Company. If you have a Bud Light fan in your group, try a bottle of “Local’s Light” to bring them to the craft beer side of things. Local’s Light is a classic American Lager crafted by Joe Short in 2004 to be “beer in its simplest form.” No promises, but it could lead to darker … ales. bellairepaddlesandpedals.com; glacialhillstrails.org; shortsbrewing.com

TEE UP Golf—yes, golf! Pop into Shanty Creek’s new Topgolf Swing Suite, located at The River Bistro, after a day on the slopes. This private lounge area can be rented by the hour and includes simulated golf and arcade games. The kids can heckle you from the huge couches while you whiff a ball, or they can go nuts on each other playing Zombie Dodgeball on the giant screen. Cost is $60 an hour and includes up to eight people. Reservations required; call 231.533.7074. Order appetizers and cocktails from The River Bistro to make it a party—the Vigilante Tacos and Loaded Potato Bombs warm up snowy nights. shantycreek.com

EAT OUTDOORS Due to COVID-19 precautions, Shanty Creek’s restaurants will have limited seating. The answer? Outdoor, socially distanced food options this year. There will be a new food truck on site (likely parked near the base of the Yellow or Pink lift), a new pick-up window at The River Bistro, as well as a new “skiup” window on the slope-side of Ivan's for grab-n-go dining in a heated outdoor tent. The new CoffeeBAR at The Lakeview will offer quick and easy breakfast and lunch, or just a jolt of caffeine. shantycreek.com

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up in michigan | essay

Searching for Jim Harrison BY TIM MULHERIN

In the late '90s, my Traverse City native friend Greg was intent on meeting the famed Leelanau County writer Jim Harrison. At that time, other than Greg’s ever-ready sense of adventure, I wasn’t sure why. But it would eventually come to me. Those were the years when we began taking family vacations in Leland, renting a home on Lake Street. Every trip I would stop by Leelanau Books, always drawn to browsing the Michigan books section, particularly field guides and local histories. Yet the best-stocked subsection would be that of Jim Harrison’s works: fiction, nonfiction and poetry. Having an aversion to anything popular, I looked the other way. Little did I know that Harrison’s readers are a special breed: lovers of Michigan’s outdoors who can appreciate a drinking man’s take on life put to wonderful words. I wasn’t completely ignorant of Harrison’s work. I had read his column on food in Esquire magazine, “The Raw and the Cooked,” years earlier. Although Harrison’s Esquire columns really popped—not only was he a wild game gourmand but also an exquisite wordsmith—the topics just weren’t of much interest to me. Harrison, a glutton for the good life, notably had prohibitively expensive tastes, by my budget, in vintage wine. At that time, I was a bar manager while attending college full time. On weekend nights, I would party after work with my fellow bartenders, drinking Coors Light and kamikaze shots. Harrison would have found me quite the trainee, I’m sure. Early one summer Sunday morning— like 3 a.m. early—while I was vacationing with my family in Leland in 1998, Greg and I were closing the Bluebird Tavern. We had spent a few years tending bar together in Indianapolis in the early '80s, when we first met, and enjoyed bellying up on special occasions on the other side. Greg was proud of his

time behind bars—the serving kind— and didn’t hesitate to let the Bluebird barkeep know of us having plied his trade. We hit it off with him, and so we were allowed to linger after last call and continue drinking with our newfound friend. Of course, we tipped our way into extended time. During our laughter-saturated conversation with the barkeep, Greg commented, “Say, I heard Jim Harrison comes in here once in a while.”

JEEZ, EVERYBODY UP NORTH KNOWS WHO JIM HARRISON IS. YOU KEEP COMING UP HERE AS MUCH AS YOU HAVE BEEN AND YOU’LL SOON BE AN HONORARY LOCAL. SO, YOU NEED TO READ SOME HARRISON AND GET ON BOARD, BRO. HE’S A HOOT, A RASCAL—LIKE ME. YOU GOTTA LOVE THAT, RIGHT?

“He does indeed,” the bartender confirmed. “Usually on a Sunday evening. He likes to sit at the bar with some of his local buddies.” I could sense an adventure coming on. “Well, I’ll be damned,” Greg said, turning to me. “Perhaps it’s time I make his acquaintance.” With eyes playfully wide, he killed his martini.

“Hmmm,” I murmured. Given my underwhelming response, Greg asked, “Hey, do you even know who Jim Harrison is?” I decided not to tell him that I had avoided reading any of his works because of his popularity in the area and my suspicion of such things. “Should I?” “Jeez, everybody Up North knows who Jim Harrison is. You keep coming up here as much as you have been and you’ll soon be an honorary local. So, you need to read some Harrison and get on board, bro. He’s a hoot, a rascal—like me. You gotta love that, right?” he said, elbowing me in jest. Years later, I realized my friend Greg reminds me of Harrison. He reminds me of Ernest Hemingway, too (as does Harrison). Greg is almost a dead-ringer for Harrison—as the 60-something version—with the exception of having both eyes intact (Harrison lost his left eye in a childhood accident). Burly and barrel-chested, low to the ground, with a weathered and mustached face, straight and thinning hair, he is uncommonly intelligent and unbearably funny—one to enjoy a good drink whenever an opportunity presents itself, as well as having a fondness for fish, fowl and other game cooked over an open fire. Greg dropped into the Bluebird occasionally on Sunday afternoons from then on, driving from Traverse City, hoping to catch Leelanau County’s prized writer and strike up a possibly life-changing conversation. But alas, Harrison never showed. On his last attempt, holding out hope, Greg composed a note and left it with the bartender to pass along the next time he saw the elusive writer. The connection never occurred. Throughout his career, Harrison must have been accosted by countless fans, especially aspiring writers, and apparently valued and protected his privacy, as a sign to unannounced visitors to his 4

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essay | up in michigan

Youth Skates Leelanau County farm warned: “DO NOT ENTER THIS DRIVEWAY UNLESS YOU HAVE CALLED FIRST. THIS MEANS YOU.” If Greg had managed to hear from Harrison, I would have definitely heard about it. In 2002, Harrison and his wife Linda moved to Montana, staying during the warmer months, and wintering in Patagonia, Arizona, forever leaving his beloved Leelanau County behind. For some mysterious reason, while visiting Naples, Florida, in 2012, it was time for me to find out what the Michigander literary infatuation with Jim Harrison was all about. The Naples Barnes & Noble happened to have a paperback copy of his 2009 novel “The English Major.” Being one of those myself and not knowing what I was in for, I immediately found the writing hilarious, insightful and master crafted, with Harrison’s keen wit for the absurd and his appreciation for wine and women unabashedly stated through his characterization of Cliff, the novel’s protagonist. Smitten, I became a Harrison fan for life. Years went by, and I forgot all about Greg’s failed attempt to meet Jim Harrison; that is until word came of the writer’s sudden death on March 26, 2016. I felt as if I had lost a dear friend. Indeed, I had come to treasure Harrison’s writing and felt a kinship with him, as readers do with all their favorite authors. I never asked Greg what he wrote to Harrison in that note that went nowhere. A private matter. As for me, I met Harrison in his writing, the place where readers are always searching to make meaningful, if not lasting connections. Like so many of Harrison’s admirers, lucky me.

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Tim Mulherin and his wife own a seasonal home in Cedar and have been visiting the lower northwestern Michigan region since the mid-'80s. A collection of his essays about their Up North adventures and love of and respect for the land and its people will be published by Mission Point Press in April 2021. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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A REVIVAL IN EAST JORDAN A GENERAL STORE IS REBORN, AS A LOCAL FAMILY BREATHES NEW LIFE INTO THIS HISTORIC TOWN.

BY CHRIS LOUD

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photo by A13 Studios

my family and i stayed the night in our own private, old-fashioned candy shop—Gunther’s General Store in East Jordan. Our well-appointed living room and bedroom were part of a beautiful renovation capturing the remarkable history of what was once a working general store, complete with swivel stools at the counter, penny candy and an old-fashioned cash register. Already want to book a stay? Don’t worry, this story will wait for you while you arrange your own trip to East Jordan.

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OK, all booked? Great. Here’s the story of a Depression-era general store run by a single mom working to help her family and community, and the modern-day family picking up that legacy of building and sustaining a strong community. Gunther’s General Store is the beginning of a community revitalization project, led by an extremely thoughtful and capable local woman named Forest Rebecca Gotts, her husband, Rick, and her up-for-the-challenge family that includes five children. The general store was renovated with history at its heart and the help of 90-year-old Elaine Dvoracek (her maiden name is Gunther), who was raised there. With their candy shop-turned-Airbnb rental now completed, Rebecca and Rick are going on to renovate a handful of historical buildings in East Jordan—including a marina and a future tap house with an antique boat and woodworking shop. They’ve also opened a new waterside wedding venue and completed two houses, which are available for rent. “We want to make sure the project is going to help East Jordan in the future,” Rebecca emphasizes. “That means seeing a future for East Jordan that includes places for people to enjoy both the history and the landscape.” No doubt, East Jordan will always be a foundry town, most often recognized for being the original home of the internationally known ironworks company EJ, formerly East Jordan Iron Works. (Next time you’re crossing the street in a city, doesn’t matter where, look for a maintenance hole cover, aka a manhole cover. There’s a good chance it will have the worldwide recognized logo of East Jordan [EJ] Iron Works. Some of the company’s production facilities have since moved to nearby Elmira, but offices and other aspects of the corporation remain in town, and EJ is still the largest employer in East Jordan.) However, the town is in the process of revitalizing both physical spaces and its regional identity. Locals, and people who visit and fall in love with the town, embrace it as the gateway to Lake Charlevoix. The town lies at the base of the South Arm of Lake Charlevoix, at the precipice between the long slender lake arm and its main tributary the Jordan River, a blue-ribbon trout river. As you drive into town from the southwest side, you pass through a small neighborhood of old buildings and new commercial businesses before you cross the bridge into the downtown area. This neighborhood, located before the bridge, used to be its own village called South Arm. It’s been incorporated within East Jordan for many years and, as such, its historical identity has been a bit lost in the mix with East Jordan. Until now. Rebecca and her family are working to rebuild and refurbish the neighborhood with enterprising, thoughtful and ambitious undertakings. Their goal is to bolster the identity of South Arm and support East Jordan by focusing on the community’s already-existing beauty and history. This South Arm area is actually older than the town of East Jordan, as it lies on the southwest side of the river and served as an original access to the waterways. However, once the bridge was built, and the ironworks business established, East

Jordan proper became the center of commerce in the area. Elaine Gunther (now Dvoracek) was just a child when her parents ran the general store in South Arm. After her father left, her mother, Julia, ran the store on her own, while raising kids, and providing what she could to the local community during a time when everybody had almost nothing—the Great Depression. The most common order at the store was bologna and crackers. In addition to food items, they also sold things like leather shoes and had one of the first electric coffee grinders in the area. The goods came in on the railroad. Most

Clockwise from top: East Jordan’s Main Street in the 1930s. The manhole covers in town still bear the worldwide-recognized East Jordan Iron Works logo. Emily Gunther (Elaine’s older sister) and her dog Buddy in front of Julia Gunther’s Store in the 1940s. Opposite top to bottom: Rebecca Gotts and her family are leading a community revitalization project in East Jordan. The interior of the renovated Gunther’s General Store, which now serves as a cozy Airbnb rental.

of the locals grew and harvested their food, but the store was a place to access things that they otherwise couldn’t get, which was the goal for Elaine’s mother. She wanted the store to be a place that not only supported her family but also ultimately supported the community. Elaine is very proud of her mother, how she handled the responsibility and a difficult situation. Having been around long enough to remember when the bridge from South Arm to East Jordan used to swing side to side to allow boats through, Elaine has seen the community go through many changes. And now, as the Gotts family breathes new life into Gunther’s and South Arm, Elaine and the family have become good friends. “I truly love Elaine,” Rebecca says. “She’s become like a grandma

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to our youngest daughter. She’s a cool lady that we would’ve never met if we'd torn down the general store.” The history of the store became apparent quickly after the Gotts purchased the building. “Once we found the general store was insulated with old food boxes between the walls, we realized the history of this building and the town that once existed here,” Rebecca remembers. “We joined the historical society and even got to host a meeting at Gunther’s with Elaine as the special guest to talk about what it was like growing up in the Depression, and life helping her mom and sister run the store.” One remnant of that era—Elaine is somewhat of an expert at math, but mainly on multiples of very specific numbers. They were the most common numbers added up on the cash register when Elaine used to help her mom with sales. Rebecca and her family started with Gunther’s General Store and a cottage next door, intending to retain the buildings’ history while meeting East Jordan’s needs today. The Gotts were tuned in to the fact that there was a lack of places for visitors to stay in the area.

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Food boxes were found in the walls (used as insulation), giving the Gotts a clue to the general store’s past. They found Kellogg cornflake boxes, laundry soap, leather shoes and bakery boxes from Petoskey, all from around 1915. Some had railway postage labels still on them. The Gotts completely renovated the shop, upgrading utilities and salvaging what they could. Bottom: The Boathouse on Lake Charlevoix set up for a fall wedding. Opposite top to bottom: The original exterior door, which reads “Tin Shop and Stoves,” separates the main store area from the back bedroom. Visitors to East Jordan can now book an overnight stay in the renovated old-school candy shop.

But they didn’t stop there. Picking up on the interest couples have in getting married in Northern Michigan, the Gotts envisioned their rentals working for those couples, and then they took it to the next level. They built The Boathouse, a wedding venue across the road that opened at the end of July 2020. The Boathouse stands as a beautiful representation of the future vision of what Rebecca and her family hope to do to revitalize the South Arm community. “The venue is exactly everything we’ve dreamed of,” says General Manager Anora O’Connor. “It’s modern, open, industrial, warm and classy.” The Boathouse is a truly special wedding venue that’s “not only cutting edge but on the water’s edge,” with long views of Lake Charlevoix from three sides and a large private wedding garden. The Boathouse, like the Gunther renovation, reflects the Gotts’ incredible eye for design and creating experiences that tie into the region and community. you can imagine after read-

ing this that I had to see this place for myself. I arrived at Gunther’s General Store with my family on a snowy afternoon and discovered that my vision of a unique yet comfortable getaway fell short of what we were able to experience, which was better than I could have hoped. We dropped our bags in the beautiful bedroom, accessed by a sliding barn-style door in the back of what still appears to be Gunther’s General Store. Our daughter found her way to the

Christmas tree set up in the corner of the store by the old-fashioned soda cooler, filled with Faygo products and other classics, complete with a bottle opener on the side. The tree was next to the front windows that looked out onto the main road. Gunther’s has a true storefront, with tall windows, a large awning and a small porch with chairs. The living area is comfortable and simple, with a TV, couch and chairs, and cozy decorations intentionally placed on the eclectic pieces of antique furniture. To our surprise, three Christmas stockings were hung from an open antique travel chest, with our names on them. This was when we realized, that among many qualities, Rebecca and her family pay incredible attention to detail and have a true passion for hospitality. I had assumed that the general store feature of the rental would be a small representation, with the focus on the living and sleeping areas. I was wrong. While the living and sleeping areas are up to the standards of any modern vacation rental, the most prominent aspect of the space is the actual general store section of the main room. Tall, floor-to-ceiling shelves are packed with penny candy and local goods. Between the large shelves is a massive old cash register (and it still works!). Colorful metal stools

bottom: photo by Karie Anne Photography

ONCE YOU’VE EXPERIENCED GUNTHER’S, IT’S EASY TO BELIEVE THE GOTTS WILL BRING THE SAME CREATIVITY AND EYE TO HISTORY IN THEIR NEXT ENDEAVORS.

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this page: photos by Karie Anne Photography

line the low countertop. On the counter sits an impressive tray of complimentary cookies and a bottle of wine. The Gotts hope to carry more locally made goods at Gunther’s that would be representative of the products that were sold there in the early 1900s. All the candy and goods, including unique necessities for travel like wooden-handled toothbrushes or a comb, are avail-

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able for purchase to the renter through an honor system, and your money can be placed into the old National Cash Register. Once you’ve experienced Gunther’s, it’s easy to believe the Gotts will bring the same creativity and eye to history in their next endeavors, including renovating the large building next door to The Boathouse, which will house an antique boat collection and boat workshop. They hope to partner with a distillery or taproom to include in the space. Whatever the Gotts take on, it’s all truly an exceptional example of ingenuity, historical mindfulness and pure passion. The Gotts family, still humble throughout their efforts, have found creative ways to support themselves and their community. It’s impressive and inspiring from the outside, but it’s not hard to see what truly drives them. “I’m still stunned and smile when I see how creative and fun the pictures look of people enjoying the space that was once a dream,” Rebecca says. “We are lucky to live in this community.” Chris Loud is the co-founder of "The Boardman Review" and writes from Traverse City. Follow him @cfloud on Instagram.

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R A I

B L A Z E R Julie Clarkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s passion for creating recreational trails is unstoppable. Julie Clarkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s passion for creating recreational trails is unstoppable.

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Right: Late fall on the Leelanau Trail at DeYoung Natural Area. Opposite: TART Trails Executive Director Julie Clark on the Leelanau Trail at DeYoung Natural Area.

photos by Andy Wakeman

“I’m the worst person to walk with.” Nearly four miles into our mid-morning trek on the 17-mile-long Leelanau Trail, Julie Clark makes this confession. “My family hates it. I think my co-workers just want to kill me some days,” she adds, letting out a low, rippling laugh. “If we’re driving anywhere, if we see a gas line or utility coordinator, immediately I’m like, ‘Where does that go?’ Yeah, it’s super annoying, to walk or drive or bike with me.” Of course, none of this can possibly be true—she is a perfectly pleasant walking partner, someone who is both attentive to the conversation at hand (“How about you? How old are your kids?”) and friendly to passersby (“Have a great ride!” she cheerfully tells a couple of cyclists; “Go Blue!” she shouts to an older man standing near a bench, donning a U-M winter hat). And yet, as the person who arguably knows our region’s 100-plus-mile trail network better than most anyone else, there may just be a teeny-tiny kernel of truth in

unstoppable. Julie Clark’s passion for creating recreational trails is unstoppable. Julie Clark’s passion for creating recreational trails is u by Heather Johnson Durocher her words. Meant in the very best way possible, of course. “Our goal, our vision, is that every house is a trailhead,” she says of Traverse Area Recreation and Transportation Trails (TART), the organization for which she’s served as executive director for the past decade. “So, this doesn’t mean there’s a swath of land up to every front door, but how could you safely access the network? You should be able to do that, whether it’s a nicer shoulder on a road or … there’s a lot of rail around here that is not utilized—so in the meantime, while there’s not a lot of

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rail on it, how do we activate it?” An occupational hazard of the job, so it appears, is thinking nonstop about how places, spaces and people could connect by trails. As is sharing this information with whomever happens to be there with her. Every home is a trailhead. Yes, yes, let’s do that! (One of Clark’s superpowers: instilling in others the belief that anything is possible when it comes to trail-building and, ultimately, community-building—even if it does maybe, from time to time, come with its eye-rolling from certain family members and co-workers.)

IF YOU’RE GOING to transform and strengthen a community through its outdoor recreational opportunities, Julie Clark is the person you want on the team, probably at the helm. “There is a certain unpolished grace (is that an oxymoron?) to how she negotiates, persuades and cajoles people into backing her vision,” says Tom Ulrich, deputy superintendent of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. “And her vision is unfailingly for the public good. She cares truly and deeply about helping people connect to the out-of-doors, and each other, through trails. This entire region owes Julie Clark our

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“The best things we do are when we are working with others. It’s longer sometimes, it will take more effort, but boy, at the end, it’s so much better.”

thanks for all she has done to help all of us enjoy these opportunities to connect on our trails.” Ulrich got to know Clark through the construction of the Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail, the only bicycle trail in the Lakeshore and a mostly paved pathway currently spanning about 20 scenic miles between the village of Empire and Bohemian Road in Leelanau County. (When it’s finished, the trail will be 27 miles long.) Some trail projects start and stall, then pick back up again before they pause again. Then there are projects like the Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail that happily, unexpectedly come together quickly. Ulrich recognizes Clark’s role in the success of this project.

ground. It happened so fast. For a trail to happen at all, let alone at that speed, it has to be community-based. They put their passion right to work. “Those Glen Arbor folks—I love them,” Clark continues. “They grew with us. We learned through mistakes, but mostly we learned by working together with the community. The park service and Michigan Department of Transportation were just incredibly supportive. Friends of Sleeping Bear, who had their ‘A’ game on, were ready and so organized. The best things we do are when we are working with others. It’s longer sometimes, it will take more effort, but boy, in the end, it’s so much better.”

GROWING UP IN Lafayette, Indiana, Clark, 45, knew of Traverse City. Her family ventured to Michigan for ski outings, “and my dad swears we came to Traverse City once.” But living in the Midwest as an adult? That wasn’t in her plans. After graduating from Miami University in Ohio, she enrolled in grad school at the University of Florida, where she met her husband Bill and pursued a passion for environmental science— “I was going to save the world,” she says.

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photos courtesy of TART

Above: Fat tire bikers enjoying the winter conditions on the Leelanau Trail. Opposite: Cross-country skier glides along the Leelanau Trail.

“She has boundless positive energy and a knack for putting people at ease. Julie has great emotional intelligence—she can read a room or read a person like few others,” Ulrich says. It was 2010, not long after Clark moved with her young family to Traverse City to take on the TART executive director position, when Clark was introduced to the Heritage Trail vision. Trail plans were in motion and $1 million was needed to match a construction grant. “We were off to the races,” she remembers. “And within five years, there’s 20 miles of trail on the

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Her on-the-ground experience, through the university’s extension office, took her into the Everglades, where she spent a couple of “amazing” years battling mosquitoes and wrangling alligators and crocodiles. “We did vegetative surveys, measuring water, critters and plant life. You’re in alligator holes. It was so exciting and hot as hell. We also caught crocodiles,” she says.

what influences could inform or change our positions?” She didn’t want a life in academia but rather a career that would allow her to answer these questions and see results in action. Today, Clark can’t quite wrap her mind around her 10 years with TART. “The only way I know it’s true is I look at my kids. They were 1 and 2 when I started,” says Clark, who came to Traverse City with her family from Mecklenburg County Park and Recreation’s Greenway Planning & Development Division in Charlotte, North Carolina, where she was responsible for the design and development of more than 35 miles of urban trail. Susan Vigland, a current mem-

Above: Map of the Boardman Lake Loop trail. Opposite: Venture onto the designated Snowshoe Trail at the Bartlett Road Trailhead of the Vasa Pathway.

Ultimately, Clark’s graduate studies honed in on trails and how people relate to natural spaces. Her focus at that time revolved around trails and natural areas in Florida, including the Florida National Scenic Trail. She also spent a lot of time finding grants for the forest service. She knew she loved the research and the data, and specifically the “why”— “Why do we feel certain things, why do we react to the fun side of science, why do we behave the way we do, why do we make decisions and

ber and past president of the TART board, was a part of the executive director search committee and remembers how quickly Clark won everyone over during her interview. “We brought Julie to Traverse City for a visit and planned a walk on the Boardman Lake Trail with the full board,” Vigland recalls. “Julie’s contagious enthusiasm for trails won over the board that day and continues to fuel TART’s success.” In the past 10 years, TART’s staff has doubled. More than 400 volunteers are actively involved with the organization, helping ensure consistent trail maintenance and updates. “As a leader, Julie has built an incredible staff who have helped make TART one of the most successful trail organizations in the state and country,” Vigland says. “Julie’s reputation among her peers extends beyond our region and Michigan, as evidenced by the invitations to present at national trail conferences. Our region is incredibly fortunate to have Julie at the helm of TART. I smile just thinking about the trail possibilities for our region in the next 10 years. Just ask Julie—she’d love to share her vision with you.” That vision comes with some tough work ahead, to be sure, Clark recognizes. “We’ve always been about trying to hear every voice out there,” she says. “Even if we don’t agree with them, you’ve got to listen, because truly there is something in there that you can

photo and map courtesy of TART

“Our goal, our vision, is that every house is a trailhead.”

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about trails is, it’s not about what happens today, it’s what we’re setting up for the future.”

hold to make things better. I don’t mind the scuffles that come, I don’t mind the passion on either side. But I definitely don’t want the passion to overwhelm projects and shout each other down.” So what is the vision? Over the next 20 years, the goal is to build 100 miles of trail within Antrim, Grand Traverse and Leelanau counties. This includes the Nakwema Trailway, a path that will close the 45+ miles between the Little Traverse Wheelway in Charlevoix and the TART Trails network in Acme. And to finish the Boardman Lake Trail.

A H , Y E S , the Boardman Lake Trail—a four-mile heavily wooded path that wraps along the eastern and northern boundaries of Boardman Lake in Traverse City. The vision for this trail is a route that circles Boardman Lake, granting easy access to the library, parks, residential developments and commercial areas including local businesses like Oryana, The Filling Station and Right Brain Brewery. Eventually, the loop around the lake will provide a connection to NMC’s University Center, Medalie Park next to Logan’s Landing and businesses along Cass Road. Ultimately, the trail will head south of South Airport Road connecting to the Boardman River Trail. Clark will tell you this project is the epitome of one of her go-to sayings: Trail work is a practice in patience and perseverance. “That was one of the first meetings I took in 2010. All of us in a room asking, ‘How do we get this done?’ I’ve been working on the loop since then.” The good news: In summer 2020, construction began on one of the final legs of the loop, between 14th Street and the University Center. TART is hopeful the final leg—Medalie Park to NMC’s University Center—will be completed in 2021. The diligence and hard efforts required of this project aren’t lost on Clark, but neither are the benefits to future generations. “These are things that none of us will remember when we cut that ribbon,” she says. “You’re banking on that potential. Every trail starts with its own temperament and story and tales that go with it. “You work for the vision that the community created. [Boardman Lake Trail] is a piece of infrastructure, a community park, that will be around for 50, 100 years. My mindset

U N S U R P R I S I N G LY, Clark and her family walk the talk. Living in Traverse City’s Central neighborhood, they have just one (electric) car and use the trails often, cycling and walking and bus-riding to where they need to go whenever possible. She’s particularly impressed with her daughters—Katie, 13, and Leah, 11— and their appreciation for life in Northern Michigan and making the most of its beautiful amenities. “They really enjoy the things that I would have maybe taken for granted at that age,” she says. And further proof that Clark is indeed a rather fantastic person with whom to enjoy a walk or ride on the trails: She confides that where the trails take you are just important, and maybe more important, than the miles themselves. “I ride trails for ice cream and food—that’s why I ride trails,” Clark says. “I want to end with breakfast or ice cream. And my family, we have a blast together. We have this thing we do, ‘Tour de Ice Cream,’ and it’s all about how much fudge and ice cream can we gather. There are usually three or four other families who go with us.” She lets out another of her infectious laughs. “It’s not necessarily the journey. It’s the destination.” Then, a wide grin. “It’s kind of critical.” Heather Johnson Durocher writes from Traverse City, where she lives with her husband Joe and their three kids. Andy Wakeman is a Northern Michigan-based photographer inspired by the characters and scenic views of his hometown.

FIND YOUR TRAIL: These TART trails provide an array of options for biking, hiking, skiing or a casual stroll in and around town. For directions to trailheads, visit MyNorth.com/Trailblazer. BOARDMAN RIVER TRAIL : 24 MILES BOARDMAN LAKE TRAIL : 4 MILES COMPLETED MALL TRAIL : 2 MILES SLEEPING BEAR HERITAGE TRAIL : 20 MILES COMPLETED LEELANAU TRAIL : 17 MILES TART : 10.5 MILES TART IN TOWN : VARIES VASA PATHWAY : 3K, 5K, 10K AND 25K LOOPS VASA SKILLZ LOOP : TWO 1-MILE LOOPS WINTER SPORTS SINGLETRACK : 15K (9.3 MILES)

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Two brothers discover a winter challenge when they ski to McKeever Cabin in the Upper Peninsulaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; along with the refuge of warm fires, gorgeous landscapes and Blackrocks beer.

h Brother Where Are We STORY BY

Chris Loud PHOTOS BY

Nick Loud

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On the trail down the ridge behind McKeever Cabin, Nick Loud finds a walking staff. Previous page: Chris Loud stands in awe of the silence and the trees, steps from the cabin.

the center of the upper

Peninsula’s Hiawatha National Forest, several miles south of Munising, my brother and I parked our car near the sign to Widewaters Campground, closed for the season, with an abandoned snowplow sitting ominously at the end of the cleared entrance, framed by 8-foot snowbanks. This is where we were told to park. We changed into our crosscountry ski boots, added a few extra layers, and set off across the road toward a hidden trail leading to our demise. I mean, cabin. Who knew that awkwardly crossing the road in slippery cross-country ski boots, carrying our skis and poles, with backpacks and a 6-foot-long toboggan loaded with “essen-

tials” would turn out to be the easiest part of the trek? Our destination was McKeever Cabin—a rustic escape, maintained by the National Forest Service and volunteers, perched above McKeever Lake, and accessible only by ski or snowshoe in the winter. The trail to the cabin is a little over a mile long. With gear and more than two feet of ungroomed snow at the start, it took us about two hours. After less than five minutes on skis in the knee-deep snow, it was pretty clear what happened. We packed too much stuff, and there was too much fresh snow. I carried a large, old-school backpacking pack—a hand-me-down from my dad. This was its first true voyage on my back. It was completely full, but well designed, and felt relatively light, considering. Being the older brother, I let Nick pull the heavy sled, teetering with our piles

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but at least it started to make sense. When we arrived at the little log cabin effortlessly perched on a ridge overlooking frozen McKeever Lake, we saw that firewood was stacked nicely in the box inside. Lighting a fire was an easy, and necessary, first step. We were both pretty cold from the trip, but simultaneously overheated, so we had to strip down a layer. It didn’t take long for the warmth in the cabin to even out, and we finally felt the fruits of our labor. Thankfully, Nick waited until we got nice and settled in our cozy, warm cabin before he showed any signs of maybe needing to go to a hospital. He was just suffering from bad dehydration and exhaustion, and he might’ve thrown up once, or three times, but the effects wore off after some hydration and a good night of sleep. On my end,

This is why you come to a place like McKeever Cabin: You stop, you listen, and then you see. of gear—from sleeping bags to food to six-packs of Blackrocks beer. The sled is a wooden toboggan that's been in the family for a couple of decades. As kids, my brother and I used to sled down a hill that rolled over an old farm lane behind our house. Sometimes our dad would join us for a three-person bobsled-esque tear down the hill, full inertia at work, with my dad laugh-grunting on every bump and bounce. The laugh-grunting sound he made stayed with me in a more literal way than I had hoped, because I was making the exact same sound now. That sledding was fun. This ... this was something else. The trail to the cabin was marked, occasionally, but to use the term “marked” is a bit insulting to the other actually marked trails nearby. Our trail started out as a numbered seasonal road, completely closed off to motorized vehicles when snow is present, but most importantly, not regularly groomed for skiing, despite it being the recommended mode of transportation. The signs were succinct, stating, “Cabin,” with an arrow pointing in a general direction. The signs only seemed to appear when we were just becoming certain we had gone the wrong way. Getting the sled going from a standstill was extremely difficult on skis, with the deep snow absorbing and grasping it like quicksand, so taking breaks proved to be about as hard as not taking breaks. Nick opted to push forward whenever possible. This was grueling on the heart, but much better for the mind, as we started to find a rhythm. Once we left the National Forest road, we finally crossed into stretches of an actual trail system that had been packed down or groomed earlier in the day. It was still difficult,

Clockwise from above: A simple sign to mark the way (seems easy enough). McKeever Lake and the creek connecting nearby ponds. Chris enjoying not having to pull a large sled full of gear.

I felt amazing once we got settled. If anything, I was rejuvenated from the fresh air and simplicity. It was an emotional cleansing from our immersion in nature, and a feeling of accomplishment. After getting the lay of the cabin, which didn’t take long, we managed to crack a couple beers and step outside onto the deck. Massive white pines stood tall on a ridge to the north. We’ll walk underneath them on a hike the next day. The silence was cut only by icy snow falling on the branches above us. The only other sound we heard regularly was what we thought to be a ranger off in the distance having issues with an old chainsaw. McKeever Cabin really is a magical place to just be. That first night, as Nick sat by the fire groaning through the last bits of muscle pain and nausea, I enjoyed a pleasant mo-

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It was an emotional cleansing from our immersion in nature, and a feeling of accomplishment.

ment of rare mental clarity. To have an adventure like this only a few hours’ drive from Traverse City is remarkable. The Upper Peninsula of Michigan is unequivocally a wild and beautiful sanctuary sitting atop our mitten. I didn’t think about work. I didn’t want to pick up my phone. No signal, no Wi-Fi, no power, no problem. I didn’t think about the future or the past. McKeever Cabin proved to be the exact right kind of adventure. Not impossible, but not too easy. It put me in the right place, body and mind, in a way that other typical getaways just don’t. We made our breakfast on top of the woodstove; some sausage and eggs. After a night of guzzling all the water we brought, I traversed down the snowy slope to fill up our gallon jugs at the pump. We were advised to bring water with us, in case the pump was frozen. Luckily, it was not, and we’d have

plenty of clean water to use for drinking and cooking. After filling the jugs to the brim, hoping at the moment not to have to make another trip down the hill through the deep snow, I heard the strange moaning chainsaw off in the distance. A noise I would’ve ignored in the city intrigued me here. It couldn’t be the same chainsaw person, right? I was curious now. I wouldn’t mind making another trip to the pump. That morning, rangers on snowmobiles restocked the woodshed, and the shed was now filled high with peace of mind. After making official eye contact through the window, no doubt a routine to make sure all is well, they were off with a friendly wave. Again, this is an adventure, but with just enough amenities. Fueled up and rested, we somewhat reluctantly found our way back onto the trails. There are about six miles of periodically groomed trails in the area, one of which passes direct-

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ly behind the cabin and connects with the entire system. If we hadn’t been a bit burned out on skiing, it would’ve been a much bigger part of our trip. Instead, we opted for some casual skiing and snowshoe hiking. We crossed over a creek that feeds McKeever Lake, connecting frozen ponds with flowing water underneath. There are a series of ponds and creeks that connect the other lakes to the north and west, including the smaller Kimble Lake and the larger Pete’s Lake. Beyond the ponds, and hovering over the opening to Kimble Lake, we could see that white pine grove visible from the cabin’s deck. We hiked up to the ridge and stood within the towering pines. A few skiers skated by as we stood just off the trail, our heads tilted up. They now enjoyed the luxurious corduroy trails, since a groomer had made its way around in the morning. Who knows what they thought of us, if anything. Tiny woodpeckers searched for food on some leaning cedars nearby. This is why you come to a place like McKeever Cabin: Because you stop, and you listen, and then you see. And that’s really all you’re supposed to do. Even a smoldering, nearly dead fire leftover from breakfast had the cabin roasting. After hiking, some cold water from the pump hit the spot, and we took off a few layers to breathe. Have you ever opened up the windows to let frigidly cold air in while sitting in a dry heat? It’s amazing, even if only for a minute. For lunch, it was venison sausage, cheese and crackers. The sausage came from a good friend’s very first deer harvest. Later, over cards and conversation, we’d sip on whiskey from Iron Fish Distillery in Thompsonville that had been aged in stout barrels. It was a birthday gift for my brother, given months earlier, and labeled “Not to be opened until inside McKeever Cabin.” We talked about what we ate and what we drank because we had the time and the clear minds for it. With every bite and every sip, we recognized the privilege of this experience, our friends and our region. The afternoon was spent reading, relaxing, exploring the frozen lake and repeating. For dinner, we had polenta and homemade pasta sauce. The gear and draw to the outdoors might’ve come from Dad, but cooking good homemade meals no matter where we were— that was all Mom. Packing too much stuff is on both of them. That evening, the sky cleared up, and the occasional dissonate horn call broke the deep silence. We were now certain it wasn’t a chainsaw. (After some research on the way home, once we got the internet back into our lives, we became convinced that it was an elk calling from across the lake.) I could’ve also been convinced every star in the universe was shining direct-

ly above the cabin that evening and glowing over the frozen lake. Sleep came easily, with a very low fire and a cracked window at my feet. We tuned in a small portable radio and landed on a Canadian sports talk station. The next morning, the packing was a little easier, but the nerves returned. Are we even ready to do this trek again? We set off, the sun was out, and thankfully the groomers had made a pass that morning, so we enjoyed some nice skiing as we crossed through the trail system. Once we got to the National Forest road, it was apparent that the rangers who had brought us the wood took the same route, so we could follow Clockwise from left: Nick (left) and Chris (right) snap a quick portrait to prove they made it. Iron Fish bourbon whiskey—not to be opened until inside McKeever Cabin. The family toboggan, unloaded and ready for its next challenge. Breakfast atop the wood-burning stove.

on their packed-down trail. It made a world of difference. I even helped this time with some uphill gear-dragging, to take some of the load off Nick. All of a sudden, as we skied around a slight curve on the snow-covered seasonal road, we could see the end of the trail, marked by bright orange fencing. It came out of nowhere. We thought we had another half hour, maybe an hour to go. It was the last metaphor we needed. The adventure was complete. Until next time, McKeever Cabin. Chris Loud is the co-founder of The Boardman Review and writes from Traverse City. Follow him @cfloud on Instagram. Nick Loud is the co-founder & creative director of The Boardman Review. He is based in Traverse City. Follow him @nloud on Instagram and check out theboardmanreview.com.

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inside FEBRUARY / MARCH 2021 NORTHERN

36 26

16 features

departments

16 / TIMBERS

07 / EDITOR’S NOTE

An expanse of glass and a massive timberframe system redefine the lodge look in this magnificent Crystal Lake home.

Six Degrees of Architecture.

26 / THE JEWEL BOX HOUSE

Into the Light.

Japanese style in a Northern Michigan setting? Exquisite.

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EDITOR’S NOTE

SIX DEGREES OF ARCHITECTURE

hen i was young we lived in ypsilanti while my dad, Ted Turak, was getting his doctorate in architectural history at University of Michigan. All the other dads worked for Ford. Oh, how I wished for a normal father. Although I tried not to listen to his constant, gentle dissertations on various styles of homes—Queen Anne, Greek Revival, Prairie School and so many more—it didn’t work. When I took this job decades ago, all of those terms came rushing back to me, and I realized that I loved architecture, especially residential architecture. My dad had a clear way of explaining how buildings spell out the connection to their historical and cultural context. He would have loved this issue of Northern Home & Cottage. Take the magnificent Tudor-style timber frame in our story, “Timber.” Most folks think of a timber frame as lodge-style, but in truth, timber frames date back to the end of the Medieval period. Cool, yeah? But there’s more. In the process of my interview with David Kimble, the architect of the home, “The Jewel Box House,” also in this issue, David explained that this home’s Japanesestyle timber frame resembles the Elizabethanstyled homes we associate with Shakespeare. Elizabethan and Tudor are fairly interchangeable. So, timber frames stretch from Medieval to modern times and from Japan, to Europe, to North America and beyond. Which brings me to another connection that Ted Turak, Fulbright Scholar and University of Michigan PHD candidate in Architectural History came up in that same discussion with David (and awesome artist in his own right) taking a Kimble. Since he’d graduated from University break at a Paris subway station in 1965. of Michigan in architecture, I mentioned my dad. David said, “Did he by chance ever mention Leonard Eaton?” Eaton had been one of David’s favorite professors. Well, yes, many years before he taught David, Eaton was largely responsible for the Fulbright scholarship that sent my dad to Paris for a year in 1964-65 to study the roots of modern architecture. He brought my mom, brother and me. I still think about that year in Paris every time I write about architecture. That connection with David Kimble and my dad’s mentor is a metaphor for me of the way great architecture evolves through the passing of inspired ideas through time and place. As you will see, this metaphor is also reflected in the three beautiful homes featured in this issue. Enjoy!

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OOPS!

Elizabeth Edwards is senior editor of Northern Home & Cottage. Lissa@traversemagazine.com We missed giving the full contact information for the designer of the home in “The Architecture of View” (Dec. 2020). To contact designer Keenan May: keenan@northerly.house; Instagram: @northerly.house.

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Northern Mood

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collections

POW DER ROOMS Discover how a few key design elements can turn this diminutive room into a big style statement. By Elizabeth Edwards

GRACIOUS GRAY

“The goal for this powder room was to create a space that added contrast from an otherwise light and airy first floor,” Design interior designer Gemma Parker says. Gemma Parker Design “We like a powder room to have a little gemmaparkerdesign.com more depth and drama than the other Location Harbor Springs rooms.” Parker created that contrast by painting the walls a rich, elegant gray—a color that also lets the beautiful nickel finishes of the Waterworks fixtures be the jewelry in the space. This classic, cool room isn’t out of context with the rest of the home, yet it packs an unexpected style-punch that leaves a lasting impression with guests.

RESOURCES

Paint Color: Benjamin Moore, 1601 Hearthstone benjaminmoore.com/en-us / Mirror: Armand Lee & Co., armandlee.com / Faucets (with Custom Escutcheon), Cabinetry Hardware: Waterworks, waterworks.com / Basin: Kallista Sink, kallista.com / Vanity Design & Fabrication: Gemma Parker Design, gemmaparkerdesign.com; Evening Star Joinery, eveningstarjoinery.com / Lights: The Urban Electric Co., urbanelectric.com / Artwork (reflected in the mirror): Geode Artwork, Lake Affect, lake-affect.com

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photo by Werner Straube

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POW DER ROOMS

INTO THE WOODS Design Kitchen Choreography kitchenchoreography.net Location Torch lake

With her signature genius, Angela Goodall of Kitchen Choreography made this powder room tucked into a masterpiece-of-a-home shine in its own right. Picking up on the homeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rustic theme she combined birch-motif wallpaper on the walls with lit, white oak beams across the tray ceiling. The custom-designed vanity is topped with a 6-inch deep soapstone counter and outfitted with reclaimed corbel-drawers that house toilet paper and cleaning supplies. The vessel sink and wall-mount faucet round out the roomâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s organic ambiance.

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Vanity: Symphony Cabinetry, kitchenchoreography.net / Sink and Faucet: Kohler Artist Editions, us.kohler.com / Mirror and Lighting: Restoration Hardware, rh.com / Wallpaper: Anthropologie, anthropologie.com

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photo by Jason Hulet Photography

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POW DER ROOMS

KICKED UP COTTAGE STYLE Design Cottage Company cottage-company.com Location Harbor Springs

Designer Kelly Konoske, president of Cottage Company Interiors, is making a name for herself with her fresh, young take on cottage style. In this powder room she combines traditional cottage elements of shiplap and black walnut (vanity and flooring) with an unexpected 3D tile wall. A vessel sink, wall-mounted faucets and pendant lights that fuse vintage and modern style round out the look.

RESOURCES

Paint: Benjamin Moore, Chantilly Lace, benjaminmoore.com/en-us Sink: Kohler, Oval Vox, us.kohler.com / Faucet: Waterworks, Flyte, waterworks.com / Tile: Glazzio Tiles, Joyous Moments, Kitten Play, glazziotiles.com / Mirror: Restoration Hardware, Bristol Wall Mirror, rh.com / Pendant Lights: Hudson Valley Lighting, Mitzi Petra, hudsonvalleylighting.com

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photo courtesy of Cottage Company

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house and home

TIMBERS HOMEOWNER TED GREENE ASKED ARCHITECT LOU DESROSIERS TO FUSE MID-CENTURY MODERN STYLE WITH LAST-CENTURY TIMBER FRAME STYLE. THE RESULT IS A MASTERPIECE. BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS / PHOTOS BY JAMES HAEFNER

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tories bout how families discovered their special Up North vacation spot abound—especially around the much-loved Crystal Lake area. In Ted Greene’s case, it was his grandfather, a schoolteacher in Cleveland in the 1920s, who first brought his family to Crystal Lake after his school’s principal invited him to spend the summer helping him build a cottage on the lake. As Greene says, “Anyone who spends any time on Crystal Lake is hooked.” And so it was with his grandfather who first purchased lakeshore property there and brought his young family to camp on it for many summers in a row. When Greene’s father was in high school, he designed a cottage for his parents’ property in drafting class and the first Greene family cot-

tage on Crystal Lake was built soon after. Later, Greene’s father built his own cottage on the lake, a mile from Greene’s grandparents’ cottage. Needless to say, Greene was as in love with Crystal Lake as his forebears. Among the many things woven into his memories of those childhood summers was the clubhouse for the

“ANYONE WHO SPENDS ANY TIME ON CRYSTAL LAKE IS HOOKED,” SAYS TED GREENE.

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nearby Crystal Downs Country Club, home to a famous Alister MacKenzie-designed golf course. The clubhouse was designed by J. Alexander McColl, a Michigan architect whose work was also well respected in the last century. Although McColl prided himself on his ability to design in many genres, he was especially drawn to the timbered Tudor style—a style he used for the Crystal Downs Clubhouse. A century after the clubhouse, with its impressive white cedar truss system, was built, the members, says Greene, “are almost as proud of their clubhouse as they are of their course.” But the Crystal Downs Clubhouse wasn’t the only building that Greene remembered from his early Crystal Lake years. Also close to his family’s homestead was a beach cottage built in 1955 by another even more widely acclaimed Michigan architect, Alden Dow. “I remember as a kid everybody’s jaw dropping when they saw it because the front was all glass. It was just a fantastic way to enjoy the view,” Greene says. “All those years I had two goals for my ultimate Crystal

Lake home: The first was to mimic timber frame construction of McColl and the second was to mimic Dow’s use of glass and high ceilings.” Several years ago, Greene acquired another lot on Crystal Lake. With his growing family filling all available family cottage space during the summer, he decided it was time to build that home he had long dreamed of for him and his

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wife, Arline. After he visited architect Lou DesRosiers’ home on Lake Michigan south of Leland, he knew DesRosiers would be the architect. “I saw his windows, big panels of glass that are butted together with no window frames. Looking out, you feel like you are right there on the beach,” remembers Greene. DesRosiers was all onboard. “We call ourselves the view architects,” he says of his firm. “We are about view, view, view.” Beyond Greene’s desire for walls of glass, DesRosiers was delighted by Greene’s enthusiasm for a wooden truss system. “The use of wood is a great marriage with expansive windows because the wood warms everything up.”

“IT WAS ABOUT BRINGING TOGETHER THE BEST OF MODERN DESIGN AND LIVING— AN OPEN FLOOR PLAN, A LARGE USE OF GLASS—WITH NATURAL MATERIALS AND COTTAGE-INSPIRED DESIGN ELEMENTS.”

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Greene went on to share more of what he was looking for with DesRosiers, including a one-level home with a central great room where his entire extended family could enjoy one another—and where parents could easily keep an eye on their children while they were playing on the beach “It was about bringing together the best of modern design and living—an open floor plan, a large use of glass—with natural materials and cottage-inspired design elements to make the home feel cozy yet spacious when filled with family,” DesRosiers says. The builder would be Ray Franks of Heartwood Custom Builders who had built Greene’s first Crystal Lake home in the 1990s. “He’s a hero. I trust him,” Greene simply says of Franks. Greene had one other stipulation for DesRosiers: Greene would be intimately involved in every aspect of the project. As it turned out, like everything else about the building of Timbers, the client/architect relationship was a joy. “Lou and I have gotten to be best of friends,” Greene says. “I would come to him with ideas, some of which he’d say you must be kidding. But we pretty much went 50-50 on who prevailed.” The finished home is indeed a masterpiece of collaboration. In the great room, floor-to-ceiling windows usher in the lake view, while fully opening sliding glass doors and automated roll screens allow the porch to become a part of the room in good weather. Complementing the inspirational view are 10 three-story white oak trusses, constructed by the Traverse City company Strong Timbers, that run from the foyer through the great room and support a white oak v-grooved paneled ceiling. “It took a crane 10-stories tall to lift the trusses up and set them down,” Greene says. Lighting is completely hidden in the trusses. “My training is as a physicist, so LED lighting fascinates me. My electrician, Randy Olsen, and I were joined at the hip in designing the lighting,” Greene says. “I think it turned out spectacularly and adds a little sparkle to the rustic feeling of the room.” Besides the view, the focal points

of the great room are a massive fireplace built of Mississippi cream stone (the same stone used on the home’s exterior) and a custom teak bar paneled in mahogany crotch wood built by Vogue Furniture. An efficient, open kitchen with creamy white cabinetry, designed by Angela Goodall of Kitchen Choreography, and a massive, custom round walnut dining table (with legs designed in the timber frame pattern), also built by Vogue Furniture, round out this communal space. All of the elements of the home—the glass, the timber, the lighting, the meticulous craftsmanship and the layout—work in such inspired harmony that DesRosiers likens the home to a country cathedral. No doubt, this home that brings together Crystal Lake’s vernacular with modern ingenuity and a strong sense of a family-oriented design is just that sort of timeless architecture.

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resources Architect DesRosiers Architects desarch.com Builder Heartwood Custom Builders 231.882.4073 Timber Frame Strong Timbers strongtimbersinc.com Bar and Dining Table Vogue Furniture voguefurniture.net Fully Opening Glass Sliding Doors Vitrocsa vitrocsausa.com Kitchen Design Custom Cabinetry Fabrics Kitchen Choreography kitchenchoreography.net Lighting and Electric Olsen Electric 231.352.4201 Millwork Thomas & Milliken tmmill.com

COMINS, MICHIGAN 1-800-818-9971

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house and home

THE JEWEL BOX HOUSE

NORTH MEETS EAST IN THIS STUNNING HOME ON A FORESTED BLUFF ALONG LAKE MICHIGAN. BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS / PHOTOS BY DOUG BROWN

NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE FEB/MARCH 2021

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fter living four years in

Tokyo, Doug and Debbie Brown developed a deep fondness for the warm, clean-lined aesthetic of Japanese style. When they found their dream lot on a bluff along Lake Michigan north of Harbor Springs, they decided they’d try to fuse those two worlds in their new home. The couple took their vision to architect David Kimble and his wife, interior designer Caroline Kimble, who embraced it enthusiastically. “It’s typical of the way we work to pay attention to what sort of influences the client wants,” David says. “We find it exciting to get clients who are creative in their own way so that we can pick up on their interests and learn from them.” The Browns appreciated the Kimbles’ enthusiasm and a strong client/designer relationship was forged between the two couples. “They were just so receptive to our ideas and easy to work with,” Debbie says. Both the Browns and Kimbles, in turn, were delighted to work with the home’s builders, Waterfront Property Management & Builders, Inc. “We worked very closely with them on the building and installation of this house and they were an integral part of the team,” Caroline says. Before putting ink to blueprint, David set out to research the Japanese aesthetic. He began by scouring several books on Japanese style that he had in his library, as well as refreshing himself on the influence that Japanese design had on the famous architect Frank Lloyd Wright’s pioneering American designs. David’s research revealed several features that would immediately lend a Japanese aesthetic to the home. The first was the use of exposed timber frames, both on the exterior and interior of the home. “The Japanese do a lot of timber frame,” David explains. “It’s the same concept as the early English Elizabethan style, except that in the Elizabethan period, they used a lot of bent

“JAPANESE TIMBER-FRAME STYLE IS DEFINED BY THE CLEANLINESS OF THE LINES—A VERY RECTILINEAR STYLE,” DAVID SAYS. arches and other things to mimic cathedrals.” By contrast, he goes on to say, “Japanese timberframe style is defined by the cleanliness of the lines—a very rectilinear style.” The second important element that draws on the Japanese aesthetic is a low-pitched, hipped, stepped roof with broad overhangs. That roof profile, combined with the home’s perch at the top of a landscaped knoll, feels especially Japanese. “The progression up to the front door through a garden is typical of Japanese homes,”

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David explains. While traditional Japanese gardens have water elements such as a stream or pond with a small footbridge, the Browns designed a symbolic stream using dark rocks from the Upper Peninsula that run down the hill from the entry porch. The rest of the landscaping—which the Browns, avid gardeners, did themselves—is also important to the home’s aesthetic. “I tried to bring the Japanese influence into it by repeating a lot of the same plants and not adding too much color. It has more of a textured look,” Debbie says. The Japanese aesthetic continues at the home’s entry, which is graced with a Japanese lantern-style light, while the front door itself takes its cue from Japanese doors—made from oak, it’s fashioned from 15 slender panels. Floor-to-ceiling windows along the back of the home capture the dramatic Lake Michigan view that on clear days takes in nearly the entire Beaver Archipelago from North Manitou to Beaver islands. David designed the windows with the simple Japanese aesthetic in mind: simple, three-paned, awning windows atop the tall glass panes to let in the lake breezes. The home’s interior, with its gray-toned, wide-planked oak floor (as at home in a Japanese house as in a Northern Michigan one) and timber-framed ceiling, is a serene backdrop that continues the Japanese aesthetic. Caroline designed a wall of built-in, dark stained cabinetry (that houses a handsome, vertical wine refrigerator) in the kitchen to offer the feel of Japanese black lacquer furniture—and to create a tailored niche for an antique hibachi that sits beneath a bamboo rod once used to hang pots over the hibachi. Meanwhile, David disguised the hall closet to resemble a shoji screen.

“LIKE A JEWELRY BOX, THE HOME IS PETITE BUT HOLDS MANY BEAUTIFUL THINGS,” CAROLINE SAYS. “THAT’S WHY I CALL IT THE JEWEL BOX HOUSE.” The Browns’ collection of Japanese artifacts fleshes out the decor. Among their pieces are a step tansu—a chest of drawers that also acted as a step up to a second floor in a Japanese home—and an abundance of Japanese Hagi and raku pottery pieces. Debbie uses a jewel-toned obi—a traditional Japanese kimono sash—as a dining room table runner. One particular challenge that Caroline helped Debbie turn into a dramatic design statement was to curate and place the Brown’s traditional Chippendale-style furniture from their former home downstate into the new, modern/ Japanese aesthetic of their new home. The result is a graciousness that adds a period feel to the decor. “The home has an eclectic feel inside,” Caroline says. “The traditional furniture with its curves and elegant upholstery stands out against the home’s clean lines. “There is a lot packed into a small space and it is done very nicely, with tasteful and quality finishes. Like a jewelry box, this home is petite but holds many beautiful things,” Caroline adds. “That’s why I call it the jewel box house.” NHC

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house and home

he barn roof–styled chalet was closed up tight for the winter when Meghan Warner Baker saw it for the first time in 2005. She was in her early 20s then and ready to purchase her first home. Trudging around the chalet, set into a slope within sight of Boyne Highlands and a short walk (or ski if there’s enough snow) from Nub’s Nob Ski Area, Meghan knew she had to have it. She loved the way the tree that grew through a cutout in the above-grade-level deck made the place feel like a treehouse. And Meghan could barely draw herself away from windows that rose 30 feet from the main level to frame a postcard view of Boyne Highlands. “I knew that I wanted it even before I went inside,” she says. “You know how it is when you get that feeling.” And Meghan hadn’t even seen the original black leather-upholstered bar in the downstairs rec room yet, or the swinging basket chair, or what she calls the Darth Vader black-metal fireplace … The chalet was built during skiing’s glamorous years of the 1960s—the decade of Jean-Claude Killy, fiberglass, K2, releasable bindings, great sweaters and slinky stretch pants. Along with all of that, a proliferation of small alpine-style chalets popped up across the nation’s ski country. Generally A-framed (so snow slides off the roof), with open living areas often joined to galley kitchens by a breakfast bar, they were tailored for easy-in, easyout ski weekends. The vintage look fit Meghan’s sense of style perfectly. She saw the possibilities in this hipped-roof variation of the quintessential ski chalet. “It had great bones,” she says. While it had always been

FOREVER GROOVY MEGHAN WARNER BAKER WAS AHEAD OF HER TIME WHEN SHE PURCHASED A 1970S SKI CHALET AND LET IT BE ITS RETRO SELF. FIFTEEN YEARS LATER, IT’S COOLER THAN EVER. BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS / PHOTOS BY TODD ZAWISTOWSKI

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used as a vacation home, Meghan intended to live in the chalet year-round. It has, after all, three bedrooms, a finished basement (home to that leather bar), and the incredible deck that acts as another living space nearly three seasons a year—not to mention its easy access to everything she loves about Northern Michigan, from ski slopes to bike trails to beaches. So, Meghan bought it—and changed, well, relatively little. She did switch out the “gross” rental carpet for dark-stained bamboo floors, painted the kitchen cabinets espresso chocolate brown and updated the appliances. But stylish intuition told her to leave most of

“I KNEW THAT I WANTED IT EVEN BEFORE I WENT INSIDE,” MEGHAN SAYS. “YOU KNOW HOW IT IS WHEN YOU GET THAT FEELING.” the beams that great 1960s avocado green. Meghan went on to outfit the home with family pieces and vintage finds from thrift shops and eBay. “It’s not a normal house; you always feel like you’re on vacation,” Meghan says. Fast-forward 15 years. Meghan is still in love with her vintage condo. Nowadays however, after living in it for many years, she rents it out to folks who love it as much as she does—for its proximity to Nubs Nob and Boyne Highlands, and for its vintage style. Several years ago, Meghan turned her love of collecting into an Etsy business she calls Great Lakes Modern, and she uses the condo to exhibit (and sell) her collectibles. “The chalet is totally decked out and I switch out items all the time,” she says. A sampler of Meghan’s latest finds for the chalet includes a 1970s wall-mounted starburst, a ‘60s-era bamboo screen and what she calls her dream score: a 1970s coffee table that sports two copper ibex heads. There’s also her gallery wall filled with vintage paintings that she changes up constantly … If you’re grooving over this combination ski chalet/mid-century modern gallery and want to stay there, Meghan says to book early. Her condo has blown up on social media and fills up fast. Find the details on page 37.

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Great Lakes Modern Collectibles Etsy, GreatLakesModern Instagram @greatlakesmodern Chalet Rental VRBO vrbo.com/847691

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Dining RESTAURANT GUIDE | LOCAL TABLE | DRINKS

NOSH ON THIS BUBBIE’S BAGELS TEXT BY CARLY SIMPSON | PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

When it comes to bagels, Sam Brickman doesn’t mess around. He’s got the recipe down to a science to achieve the bread’s signature texture—crisp on the outside and oh-so-soft on the inside. It takes five days to make a batch. It’s a precise process of proofing times, hydration percentages and temperatures. On Day 1, Sam makes a pre-ferment (equal parts water and flour) and adds sourdough starter. The mixture gets nice and bubbly and starts to rise. Then it goes into the cooler overnight and hangs out there on Day 2. On Day 3, it goes into the mixer with all the other ingredients and becomes dough. It’s shaped and put back into the cooler where it stays on Day 4. Finally, on Day 5, the bagels (up to 1,200 a day) are boiled in a large kettle and then baked (and quickly devoured). “Being Jewish, bagels are a part of my heritage,” Sam says. “I grew up in Detroit where there’s a big Jewish community and a ton of really good bagel shops. Every Sunday we would have bagels.” Though Sam had eaten a lot of bagels, he didn’t actually bake a bagel until 2019. After a lot of trials (he keeps a bagel journal) and a summer slinging his boiled beauties at the Sara Hardy Farmers Market (and selling out every week), he opened Bubbie’s Bagels in February 2020. While Sam is strict about bagel baking, he lets loose on cream cheese. His background as a chef at Fustini’s in Traverse City and sous chef at Gold Cash Gold Detroit shows in seasonal shmears such as pumpkin and gingersnap or the year-round favorite, jalapeño—which has pickled, roasted and fresh, raw peppers. The menu also features a rotating lineup of pastries—challah, rugelach, chocolate babka—a nod to his childhood and baking with his bubbie (Yiddish for grandmother). “Whenever she was scooping flour or sugar, she would always level off the measuring cup with a knife,” Sam says. “If she was measuring flour, she would always sift it first. I could go on and on. All these things were Bubbie’s rules, and those were the things you had to do when you were baking with her.” 4

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What makes a bagel "real"? I think the biggest thing that separates a true bagel from a commercial bagel is the boiling process. Bagels, after they’re made and formed and proofed, go into a big kettle full of water and we put a little bit of barley malt in there, which is like a sweetener. They boil for about two minutes before we take them out and put them in the oven. What that does is it sets the crust because that hot water surrounds the bagel. Once it goes into the oven, the crust forms a lot quicker than it would on other bread. A lot of commercial places like Big Apple or Einstein are putting their bagels into steam ovens to try and replicate that boiling process. They bake it in an environment that has a lot of moisture. You get a little bit of that same feeling on the crust, but it doesn’t compare to a boiled bagel. Why barley malt? Barley malt is an old-school thing. I believe during World War II sugar rationing, that barley malt was an alternative that people could get and afford, although it’s much more expensive than sugar today. It’s definitely got an interesting flavor profile—kind of more like brown sugar. It’s got a little bit more depth and character to it. I don’t know of a lot of other places, especially in this area, that are using anything like that. I’m sure all the bakeries in New York who are making bagels by hand are using it as well. It’s kind of a unique ingredient.

extra meltiness

dining | bagels

THE NOSH SANDWICH

SAM BRICKMAN

And if you're simply eating a bagel and cream cheese, no add-ons, what's your go-to? My lunch basically every day when I get home from the shop is a salt stick with scallion cream cheese.

photos by Dave Weidner

It's a bitterly cold February morning; you need a bagel sandwich for sustenance—what are you putting on it? The Nosh sandwich—bacon, egg and cheese. Man, it’s a big sandwich. We’ve got Louie’s bacon in there, which is a nice thick-cut bacon. Two slices of Tillamook cheddar, which is, again, really thick sliced that we melt on the bagel. We make the egg kind of like a folded omelet, so it’s a scrambled egg we put in the pan and then fold it four times to get all these layers in it. It creates a big fat egg cake. Then on the bagel, we put a really light smear of scallion cream cheese just to get a little onion in there and a little extra meltiness.

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restaurant guide | dining

RESTAURANT GUIDE | BLD | BAR | $ | $$ | $$$ |

WATER VIEW BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER ALCOHOL SERVED ENTRÉES INDER $10 $10-20 ABOVE $20

SOME RESTAURANTS MAY HAVE LIMITED WINTER HOURS OR ARE TEMPORARILY CLOSED DUE TO COVID-19. CALL AHEAD BEFORE VISITING. PETOSKEY & MACKINAC STRAITS

ALANSON/BAY HARBOR/INDIAN RIVER Dutch Oven Café and Deli French toast and farmers omelet stratas, sandwiches on famous homemade bread. BL •

$ 7611 U.S. 31, ALANSON, 231.548.2231

Knot Just a Bar Contemporary sports and oyster bar perched on the Bay Harbor marina. B • $ 4165 MAIN STREET, BAY

HARBOR, 231.439.9989

Original Pancake House Crepes, waffles, pancakes, omelettes, egg specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$ 840 FRONT ST., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.2770

The Queens Head Wine pub serving wine, spirits and draft beer along with delectable pub fare. LD • BAR • $ 250 N. HURON

ST., CHEBOYGAN, 231.445.7101

Vintage Chophouse/ Wine Bar All-American steakhouse flavored with retro sophistication. LD • BAR • $-$$$

INN AT BAY HARBOR AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION, 3600 VILLAGE HARBOR DR., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.4051

Vivio’s Northwood Inn Locals love this cozy, rustic, wildlifedecorated log cabin with Italian cuisine and specialty pizzas. LD • BAR • $-$$ 4531 S. STRAITS HWY., INDIAN RIVER, 231.238.9471

CROSS VILLAGE/HARBOR SPRINGS/ PELLSTON/PETOSKEY Barrel Back Smoked pork tacos, chopped salads, gourmet pizza and pasta, grilled beef tenderloin and more. Over 20 craft beers on tap and signature cocktails. LD • BAR $-$$$

Mitchell Street Pub and Café Classic pub with fresh peanuts, fantastic nachos, Maurice salad, patty melts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 426 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231. 347.1801

CREEK RD, BELLAIRE, 231.533.9000

New York Restaurant Looks like the East Coast, tastes like heaven. D • BAR • $$-$$$ CORNER OF STATE AND BAY, HARBOR

Provisions Wine Lounge Sommelier-curated wines by the glass and bottle, classic cocktails, Michigan craft beer and small plates. LD • BAR • $$ 123 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.2151 Red Mesa Grill Colorful decor and creative Latin American cuisine with Costa Rican and Argentinean influences punctuate this lively spot. LD • BAR • $$ 117 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY,

SPRINGS, 231. 526.1904

Palette Bistro Little Traverse Bay views with casual upscale dining, outdoor seating and an evolving seasonal menu. Wine bar, weekend brunch and popular happy hour. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 321 BAY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3321 Pour Public House Charcuterie, gourmet sandwiches, salads, soups, bruschetta. LD • BAR • $-$$ 422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY,

231.881.9800

Roast & Toast Hip coffeehouse with daily house-made soups, bread, bakery items and salads. On-site coffee roasting. A consistent MyNorth Red Hot Best winner. BLD • $ 309 E. LAKE

STREET, PETOSKEY, 231.347.7767

Sam’s Graces Café & Bakery Artisanal bakery and brick oven pizzeria. BL • $ 324 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.489.8278 Side Door Saloon Excellent sandwiches, quesadillas, steak, whitefish and pastas. LD • BAR • $ 1200 N. U.S. 31, PETOSKEY, 231. 347.9291

Stafford’s Bay View Inn Gracious 1886 inn with a big veranda, glorious gardens and bay view, American fare. Sun. brunch. BLD • $$-$$$ 2011 WOODLAND, PETOSKEY, 231347.2771 Stafford’s Perry Hotel Circa-1899 hotel with a wraparound front porch and killer views of Little Traverse Bay. LD • BAR • $$–$$$ CORNER OF BAY & LEWIS, PETOSKEY, 231.347.4000

Stafford’s Pier Regional cuisine. Pointer Room—fresh seafood. LD • BAR • $$ Dudley’s Deck—LD • BAR • $$ Chart Room—D • BAR • $$ 102 BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6201 Tap30 Pourhouse Inventive sliders, award-winning chili, Frito pie and more along with 30 beers on tap. LD • BAR • $ 422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9572

Terrace Inn Planked whitefish and housemade desserts in a Victorian setting. D • BAR • $$ 1549 GLENDALE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.2410

Thai Orchid Cuisine Outstandingly fresh and authentic noodles, curries and salads. LD • $-$$ 433 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.487.9900

Villa Ristorante Italiano Chianti bottles hang from stucco walls and authentic handmade pasta, osso bucco and handrolled cannoli star. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 887 SPRING ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.1440

Willow Inspired farm-to-table modern American cuisine with global wine and craft cocktail bar. D • BAR • $$ 129 EAST BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.412.6032

04069 M75, WALLOON LAKE, 231.535.6000

Beards Brewery Pizza, burgers, salads, wings and culinary surprises including pho. LD • BAR $$ 215 E LAKE ST. PETOSKEY, 231.753.2221

The Bistro Local favorite for saucer-sized homemade pancakes, home-cooked comfort food and soups like carrot bisque and chicken ’n’ dumpling. BL • $ 423 MICHIGAN ST., PETO-

SKEY, 231.347.5583

Boyne Highlands Main Dining Room—Casual American with Scottish influences. Focus on fresh, seasonal, local ingredients. Seminole Pub. BLD • BAR • $–$$ 600 HIGHLANDS DR., HARBOR

SPRINGS, 231.526.3000

Chandler’s Brick-walled and -floored dining inside or on the patio offers two ways to savor this art-filled eatery’s upscale menu. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 215 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, BELOW SY-

MONS GENERAL STORE, 231.347.2981

City Park Grill Hemingway drank at the massive mahogany bar in this casual spot. Scratch cuisine, wood grill, hand-cut steaks, pastas, fresh whitefish, and live entertainment. LD •

BAR • $$ 432 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.0101

Jose’s Authentic taqueria with made-to-order Mex. LD • $ 309 PETOSKEY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3299

Julienne Tomatoes Fresh sandwiches, comfort food, and homemade pastries like lemon raspberry bars, banana caramel flan. BL • $ 421 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, 231.439.9250

Pelican's Nest Gourmet burgers, smoked ribs, sandwiches, salads and homemade desserts. D • BAR $-$$ 5085 SHANTY

CHARLEVOIX & CHAIN OF LAKES

BELLAIRE/BOYNE COUNTRY/WALLOON Boyne City Taproom Craft beer, wood-fired pizzas, wraps, burgers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 220 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.459.4487 Boyne Mountain Resort Everett’s Restaurant & Lounge—Elegantly prepared fish and game dishes. BLD • BAR • $-$$$; Eriksen’s—Stunning view of the slopes and menu with Austrian and German touches. BLD • BAR • $-$$; Forty Acre Tavern— American pub fare with an extensive beer list. LD • BAR • $-$$

ONE BOYNE MOUNTAIN RD., BOYNE FALLS. 844.732.6875

Café Santé Beside Lake Charlevoix featuring bistro classics. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 1 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.8800 Corner Bistro French-inspired small plates, classic cocktails, wine, beer, Sunday brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 102 N. BRIDGE ST.,

BELLAIRE, 231.350.7344

Friske Orchards Cafe Cheerful roadside restaurant features farm-fresh breakfasts, homemade soups, salads, sandwiches, and a bakery. BL • $ 10743 U.S. 31 S., ATWOOD, 231.599.2604 Lake Street Pub American pub with outdoor patio and firepit, BYO mac ‘n’ cheese, cocktails, 26 beers on tap. LD • $ 202 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6031

231.582.0049

Stiggs Brewery Hand-crafted brews, from-scratch food like whitefish cakes, bourbon chicken sandwich, top sirloin wagyu steak. LD • BAR $-$$ 112 S. PARK ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6100 Shanty Creek Resort Lakeview—Innovative regional cuisine at Shanty Creek Resort with a view of Lake Bellaire. Breakfast, lunch & dinner. The River Bistro—Breakfast buffet, sandwiches, pizzas and 45 regional beers on tap; Arnie’s at the Summit—Breakfast, Lunch, (spring-fall) Ivan’s Mountainside Gril—Schuss Village-Pub food. BLD • BAR 1 SHANTY CREEK RD.

(M-88), BELLAIRE, 800.678.4111

Short’s Brewing Co. Sip Joe Short’s fabulous brew, and dine from the deli menu in a renovated hardware store. LD • BAR • $ 121 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.6622

Terrain Restaurant Honest yet ambitious contemporary American food with a focus on local ingredients. D • BAR • $$

213 N BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.350.7301

Torch Riviera Pasta, seafood, steaks, ribs, pizza. D • BAR • $$ 12899 CHERRY AVE., RAPID CITY, 231.322.4100

Walloon Lake Inn Exceptional culinary skills play out in a newly renovated, century-old pine-paneled lakeside lodge. D

• BAR • $$-$$$ 4178 WEST ST., WALLOON LAKE VILLAGE, 231.535.2999

CENTRAL LAKE/CHARLEVOIX/ EAST JORDAN/ELLSWORTH Bridge Street Taproom Michigan craft brews, beerfriendly small plates, local charcuterie and bird’s-eye views of the yacht traffic on Round Lake. D L • BAR • $-$$ 202 BRIDGE ST.,

CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3466

The Cantina Tacos and tequila with indoor and outdoor seating. Live entertainment. LD • BAR • $-$$ 101 VAN PELT PLACE,

CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3612

Charlevoix Pizza Company Scratch-made dough, fresh ingredients, golden crust, prepared daily. Plus, cheesy bread and wings. LD • $-$$ 311 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6300 East Park Tavern French-influenced American cuisine featuring prime rib, John Cross Whitefish and specialty cocktails at the Quay Restaurant and Terrace Bar in Charlevoix. LD • BAR • $$–$$$ 307 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7450

Esperance Gourmets will adore dishes prepared with dazzling technique in this specialty food and wine shop. D • $-$$$ 12853 U.S. 31 N., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.9300

That French Place Authentic French creperie and ice cream shop. BLD • $ 212 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6037 Grey Gables Inn Graceful, intimate, Victorian atmosphere across from the harbor. D • BAR • $–$$$ 308 BELVEDERE, CHAR-

LEVOIX, 231.547.9261

Lake Charlevoix Brewing Co. Craft brewery with good eats—grilled cheese sammies, tacos, quesadillas and beef jerky. LD • BAR • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE PARK DR., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3220

Pigs Eatin’ Ribs Real smokehouse with mouthwatering BBQ. Weekend breakfast. BLD • $-$$ 1418 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7447

Rowe Inn A unique fresh and from-scratch dining experience that has stood the test of time. D • BAR •$$$ 6303 E. JORDAN RD., ELLSWORTH, 231.588.7351

Scovie’s Gourmet Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and baked goods star here. Dinner is bistro-style comfort food. LD • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.7827

Stafford’s Weathervane Local fish, seafood and regional cuisine in a Hobbit-style Earl Young stone structure with a massive fireplace overlooking the Pine River Channel. LD •

BAR • $$ 106 PINE RIVER LN., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4311

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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dining | restaurant guide Dilbert’s Soups, sandwiches, omelets and other home cooking served in a homey atmosphere. BLD • $ 11303 U.S. 31, INTER-

• $$ 112 ANTRIM ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2799

Boone’s Prime Time Pub Seafood, steaks and burgers in a cozy cabin with a fireplace and a lively, friendly wait staff. LD •

BAR • $$ 102 ST. JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6688

LOCHEN, 231.275.3005

Torch Lake Cafe Inventive, ultra-fresh cuisine with sharable options like the seafood platter with black garlic butter. Or devour an elevated fried bologna sandwich with pickled green tomato and house Dijon all on your own... BLD • BAR • $-$$$

Broomstack Kitchen & Taphouse Great burgers, hand-cut fries, Sicilian-style pizza. Curling in the winter. LD • BAR • $ 172

Hofbrau Lively cedar-paneled former general store serves locals and Interlochen performers. Steak, seafood, bluegill and barbecue. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 2784 M-137, INTERLO-

Terry’s Place Small white-tablecloth eatery with a high tin ceiling. Try the perch or filet mignon. Mouthwatering. D • BAR

4990 US31 N, CENTRAL LAKE, 231.599.1111

W BURDICKVILLE RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.8869

Dick’s Pour House Homemade soups and pies, sandwiches, pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 103 W. PHILIP ST., LAKE LEELANAU,

CHEN, 231.276.6979

Judson Market and Restaurant Newly re-branded market and restaurant offering house-made and local items. Glutenfree, vegetarian, full bar. BLD • BAR • $$ 211 E. MAIN ST., KINGSLEY,

Villager Pub ’50s atmosphere, whitefish, Mexican, ribs, sandwiches and pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 427 BRIDGE ST., CHAR-

231.256.9912

ELK RAPIDS/GAYLORD/GRAYLING/MANCELONA

LD • BAR • $ 7144 N. M-22, BETWEEN NORTHPORT AND LELAND, 231.386.9923

OLD MISSION PENINSULA

Chef Charles’ Culinary Institute of America-trained Chef Charles Egeler makes gourmet pizzas, Ligurian-style takeout pesto, salads and sandwiches in a classic pizzeria. LD • $ 147

Funistrada Casual trattoria features Italian specialties such as veal saltimbocca and lasagna. D • BAR • $$ 4566 MCFARLANE,

Jolly Pumpkin Wood-fired steaks, fresh fish, and artisan pizzas along with fresh ales crafted onsite. LD • BAR • $$ 13512 OLD

MAPLE CITY/BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3900

PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4333

Cellar 152 Gourmet meals to take out or eat in a wine bar on the Elk River. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 152 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS,

Hearth & Vine Café at Black Star Farms Farm-to-table menu that pairs with Black Star Farm’s wine, cider and craft cocktails. LD • BAR • $-$$ 10844 E REVOLD RD., SUTTONS BAY,

Mission Table Farm-to-table restaurant serving seasonal, locally sourced fare and craft cocktails. D THURSDAY,

LEVOIX, 231.547.6925

RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.8901

231.264.9000

The Local All-American breakfast and lunch done better. BL • $$ 145 AMES ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.498.2190

Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen Every day’s Mardi Gras at this festive spot, where Cajun, Creole, seafood, sandwiches and big brunches accompany lively zydeco, jazz and blues. LD •

BAR • $-$$ 617 AMES, ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.0530

The Town Club of Elk Rapids After a renovation in 2019, this famous landmark has been rebuilt and is already being appreciated for its daily lunch specials and famous Prime Rib Thursdays. LD • BAR • $$ 133 RIVER STREET, ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.9914 Bennethum’s Northern Inn Fresh eclectic cuisine and updated regional favorites in a cozy Northwoods setting. Creative kids menu, Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 3917 SOUTH OLD

27, GAYLORD, 989.732.9288

Paddle Hard Brewing A fun-loving community hangout with artisan tacos, pizzas and brews. LD • BAR 227 E MICHIGAN AVE.,

Fischer’s Happy Hour Tavern Rustic family-style roadhouse known for burgers, soups and raspberry pie in season.

231.944.1297

The Homestead Nonna’s Restaurant—Classically inspired, contemporary Italian cuisine. D • BAR $$-$$$ Beppi’s Sports Bar—Hand-tossed pizzas, paninis and salads. D • BAR • $-$$ 1 Hop Lot Brewing Co. Family-friendly microbrewery with four-season patio and games serving ribs, tacos, wings and a s’more kit to top it all off. LD • BAR • $-$$ 658 S WEST BAY SHORE

DR., SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4445

231.223.7280

DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY Friendly French bistro with a bay view, fireplace Amical and street patio. Prix fixe menu from 4–5:30pm. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 229 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.8888

NEW Benedict A family-friendly restaurant offering breakfast and lunch sandwiches, pastries, salads, soups and more. BL • $

Knot Just a Bar Fish and burgers in a modern, beachy pub perched over pretty Omena Bay. LD • BAR • $-$$ 5019 BAY

Blue Tractor Cook Shop An Old Town favorite with fromscratch farmer food. and Michigan-crafted beers. LD • BAR •

La Bécasse Part the heavy velvet curtains and find a Provençal paradise. D • BAR • $$-$$$ C-675 & C-616, BURDICKVILLE,

NEW Brasserie Amie A Parisian-style brasserie bistro in

11015 FRONT ST., EMPIRE, 231.326.5506

SHORE DR. (M-22), OMENA, 231.386.7393

Spike’s Keg O’ Nails An Up North classic for burgers since 1933. LD • BAR $ 301 N. JAMES ST., GRAYLING, 989.348.7113 Tap Room 32 Twenty handles of Michigan craft beers and a menu of modern brew-friendly vittles like truffle fries and Korean beef tacos. D • $$ 141 NORTH COURT AVE., GAYLORD,

Market 22 Deli, pizza, bakery. Eat in or take out. BLD • BAR • $ 497 E HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6422

Martha’s Leelanau Table A European-style cafe with an emphasis on regional cuisine made from scratch, including some gluten free dishes and pastries. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 413 N. ST.

989.748.8552

JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2344

The Old Depot 1900s train depot features homestyle burgers, steaks, chops, prime rib, seafood, pies and pastries. BLD •

North Country Grill & Pub The Boone family keeps the classics (whitefish, prime rib, and yellow belly perch) while flirting with fondue, fried pickles, Phillys and Cubans. LD • BAR • $$

216 W. MAIN ST., GAYLORD, 989.732.5524

Old Mission Tavern Prime rib, fresh fish, pastas and ethnic specials. LD • BAR • $$ 17015 CENTER RD., TRAVERSE CITY,

Joe’s Friendly Tavern A rustic, comfy spot with bar food: whitefish, burgers, sandwiches, chili and soup. BLD • BAR • $$

231.334.3944

Sugar Bowl Restaurant This vintage 1919 eatery serves whitefish, prime rib and Greek specialties. BLD • BAR • $$-$$$

FRIDAY & SATURDAY 5PM–9PM • BAR • $-$$ 13512 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4222

WOODRIDGE RD. (OFF M-22), GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.5000

GRAYLING, 989.745.6388

$$ 10826 M-32 E., JOHANNESBURG, 989.732.3115

231.263.8120

420 ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.5000

Pegtown Station Pizza, subs, burgers, sandwiches, salads and breakfast—all done well. BL • $ 8654 S MAPLE CITY RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6692

237 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.1000

$-$$ 423 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 922.9515

downtown TC serving up brunch and dinner. LD • BAR • $$ 160

E. FRONT ST., 231.753.3161

Bubba’s Happening Front Street spot with battered mahi and chips, burgers, chimis, salads and tacos. BLD • BAR • $ 428 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.995.0570

The Cooks’ House A sweet little dollhouse of a spot, home to sustainable local cuisine with a French sensibility. LD • $$-$$$ 115 WELLINGTON ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8700

Cousin Jenny’s Cornish Pasties Homemade pasties. BLD • $ 129 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7821

The Dish Cafe Eclectic menu with creative salads, quesadillas, enormous wraps, sandwiches and smoothies. LD • BAR • $ 108 S. UNION, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.2233

Fig's New location in State Street Marketplace. Daily menu with locally sourced foods: bar snacks, ethnic foods. BL • $$

Treetops Sylvan Resort Hunters Grille, & Sports Bar. Steak, burgers, ribs, pasta, signature pizza, chicken, fish and glutenfree selections. Featuring a selection of 100 Michigan craft beer, wines, fabulous martinis. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ WILKINSON

Streetside Grille Seafood, burgers, pasta, flatbread pizzas, great beer list and more. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 111 N. ST. JOSEPH ST.,

329 E STATE ST. 231.256.2222

SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4199

Shirley’s Café An ultra-friendly, all-homemade oasis. BLD • $

The Tribune Ice Cream and Eatery House-cured lox, breakfast burritos, meatloaf sammies and burgers share the menu.

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.1310

LEELANAU COUNTY

Western Avenue Grill Birch-bark-rustic motif with canoes hung from the rafters. Pasta, seafood, whitefish and burgers. LD • BAR • $$ 6680 WESTERN AVE. (M-109), GLEN ARBOR, 231.

RD., GAYLORD, 800.444.6711

528 S. WILLIAMS ST., MANCELONA, 231.587.1210

BLD • $ 110 E. NAGONABA ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1055

Firefly A dazzling small-plate menu, sushi, steaks and burgs at a sophisticated hotspot on the river. BL • $-$$ 310 S. CASS ST., The Good Bowl Fresh, authentic Vietnamese eatery. Donates $1 for every bowl to the charity of your choice. LD • BAR $-$$

328 E FRONT ST.,TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.2662

The Green House Café Sandwiches, soups and salads. BL • $

334.3362

115 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.7687

45th Parallel Cafe Artsy spot with creative breakfast and lunch. BL • $-$$ 102 S. BROADWAY, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2233 Art’s Tavern Burgers, whitefish, steaks, Mexican and pizza. Smelt year-round at this legendary watering hole. BLD • BAR •

Wren Contemporary comfort food and a constantly changing menu to feature locally sourced ingredients. D • BAR • $$ 303

Grand Traverse Pie Co. Exceptional cream and fruit pies, coffee, baked goods, pot pies, chicken salad and quiche. BL •

The Bluebird A mainstay for locals and boaters since 1927. Specialties: cinnamon rolls, whitefish, seafood, steak, pasta, creative ethnic feasts during the off-season. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR $$ 102 E. RIVER ST., LELAND, 231.256.9081 Boone Dock’s Log lodge with roomy deck, shrimp, burgers, steaks. LD • BAR • $$ 5858 MANITOU, GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.6444

GRAND TRAVERSE AREA

N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.1175

$ 525 W. FRONT ST. AND 101 N. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7437

Little G's Fusion Cuisine Asian and Latin taqueria. LD • $ 531

$-$$ 6487 W. WESTERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3754

W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2713

INTERLOCHEN/KINGSLEY Bradley’s Pub & Grille Burgers, ribs, bluegill, brisket, trout and so much more. LD BAR • $-$$ 10586 US31, INTERLOCHEN, 231.275.6401

Mackinaw Brewing Co. Nautical-themed brewpub offers great house-smoked meats, several styles of beers, tasty burgers, fish and ribs. LD • BAR • $$ 161 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 933.1100

Mama Lu’s Modern Day Taco Shop Fresh tortillas with a mix of traditional and modern ingredients at this hip, fun taqueria and bar. LD • BAR • $$ 149 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2793

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restaurant guide | dining Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. BLD • BAR • $$ 300 E. STATE ST.,

prime rib and more. D • BAR • $-$$$ 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG,

Mode’s Bum Steer Classic steakhouse serves tender, wellaged charbroiled Black Angus steaks, seafood, ribs, soup, sandwiches. LD • BAR • $$ 125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

TRAVERSE CITY–SOUTH

231.534.8888

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5093

231.947.9832

North Peak Brewing Co. Wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sandwiches, microbrewed beer and a jam-packed bar scene. LD • BAR • $$ 400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7325

Omelette Shoppe Vast array of omelets, homemade breads and pastries, soup and sandwiches. BLD • $ 124 CASS,

231.946.0912, AND 1209 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0590

Boone’s Long Lake Inn Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily specials. D • BAR • $$ 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.3991 Centre Street Café Fine and flavorful sammies. Saturday brunch 10:30am-6pm. Mon.-Fri. Open 10am-3pm. Closed Sunday. BL • $ 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5872 The Filling Station Microbrewery Thin-crusted wood-fired flatbreads and flavorful house brews revitalize the Depot. LD • BAR • $-$$ 642 RAILROAD PLACE, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8168

Pangea’s Pizza Pub Craft pies, creative toppings. LD • BAR

Right Brain Brewery Traverse City’s beloved brew pub now at a new location. BAR • $ 225 E. 16 ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1239

Poppycock’s Fresh seafood, pasta, unique sandwiches and salads, including vegetarian specialties and award-winning desserts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128. E. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY,

TRAVERSE CITY–WEST

$-$$ 135 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.9800

231.941.7632

Rough-hewn eatery affords a great Apache Trout Grill bay view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad. LD • BAR • $$

Hermann’s European Cafe Austrian-born master pastry chef Hermann Suhs creates international cuisine, seasonal specialties and divine desserts in an alpenhaus-style dining room. LD • BAR • $$ 214 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9563

Herraduras Mexican Bar & Grill Authentic dishes like flautas, enchiladas and carnitas, plus shrimp chimis and steaks. LD • BAR • $ 1700 S. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.4575

Lakeside Charlie’s A fine deck on Lake Mitchell. The hunt club–style restaurant features burgers, aged beef, fish and wild game. LD • BAR • $$ 301 S. LAKE MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5332

Maggie’s Tavern Chili, burgers, steaks, wet burritos and kid selections are served up in a lively 19th-century setting. LD •

BAR • $ 523 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.1810

FRANKFORT/ELBERTA/ONEKAMA/ MANISTEE/ARCADIA Birch & Maple Scratch cuisine prepared with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. Friendly folks and fab craft cocktails. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 727 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0399 Bungalow Inn This former rustic cabin offers steak, ribs and fish-fry specials, perch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1100 28TH ST., MANISTEE,

Rare Bird Brewery The likes of pork belly sliders, oysters on the half shell and great burgers served up alongside great beer.

13671 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.7079

Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh, sleek surroundings and the spicy-exotic flavors of Asia. D • BAR • $-$$$ 237 E. FRONT

• $-$$$ 13890 SOUTH WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.9393

Scalawags Whitefish and Chips Ultra-fresh Great Lakes fish fry. LD • $ 303 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8700 Seven Monks Taproom Pair any of 46 beers on tap (including European Trappist ales) with your burger and lively sides like sweet potato frites and Scotch egg. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128 S.

$$ 700 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1960

FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9843

Red Spire Brunch House Classic American fare: breakfast and lunch all day. BL • $$ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., ST. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.4648

Dinghy’s Local favorite for 25 years with house-smoked meats including famous ribs, half-pound burger, Big BLT, award-winning Friday fish fry. LD • BAR • $$ 415 MAIN ST.,

Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons. Kiss Randolph the moose before you leave. LD • BAR • $-$$ 717

The Fillmore House-crafted burgers, salads and wood-fired pizzas (p.m. only), all rich with Michigan ingredients. LD• BAR

LD • BAR • $$ 229 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2053

ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1733

UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.4807

Slate Prime cuts of beef and the freshest seafood with inspired toppings and sides. D • BAR • $$$ 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

Sorellina Authentic Italian pasta, zuppa and insalate. LD • BAR

• $$-$$$ 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

Sugar 2 Salt Traverse City's hot brunch spot serves up what is in season. B • $-$$ 1371 GRAY DR., SUITE 300, TRAVERSE CITY,

231.409.8382

Taproot Cider House Brick oven pizza, great salads, inventive entrees paired with hard cider, microbrews, wine and spirits. LD • BAR • $-$$ 300 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2500 The Towne Plaza Eclectic American cuisine focusing on local ingredients. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 202 E. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

Harrington’s By The Bay Sunday brunch, seafood, steaks, burgers, sandwiches—with a bay view. BLD • BAR PepeNero From-scratch southern Italian cuisine. LD • BAR •

The Silver Swan Ethnic fare and killer desserts. LD • $ 13692

The Fusion Asian delights like fiery curries and lettuce wraps (plus creative cocktails) served in a serene atmosphere on Frankfort’s main drag. BLD • $–$$ 300 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT,

S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0203

Spanglish Authentic, homemade Mexican fare with occasional American accents. BLD • $ 1333 YELLOW DR.,

TRAVERSE CITY. 231.943.1453

Trattoria Stella Hip locally sourced fare with an Italian accent. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY,

231.929.8989

West End Tavern Craft cocktails, wood-roasted chicken and more elevated pub fare served up beside West Bay. LD • BAR • $$ 12719 SOUTH WEST BAYSHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2922

BENZIE, MANISTEE, CADILLAC

VERSE CITY, 231.421.1165

BENZONIA/BEULAH/HONOR/THOMPSONVILLE

TRAVERSE CITY–EAST

Crystal Mountain Resort Thistle Pub & Grille—Wood-paneled eatery, continental and Scottish specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$$ Wild Tomato Restaurant & Bar—Family Favorites. BLD

Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16th-floor panorama of East Bay and regional fine dining. Music on weekends. D • BAR • $$-$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD • $$ U.S. 31 N., ACME, 231.534.6000

86 WASHINGTON ST, MANISTEE, 231.299.1020

Rock's Landing Eclectic menu combines local ingredients with ethnic influences. Intimate dining, feet from Crystal Lake. D • BAR $$ 1157 CRYSTAL DR., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0158 Stormcloud Brewing Brewing Belgian-inspired ales to pair with inventive, smart bistro fare. LD • BAR • $-$$ 303 MAIN ST., Taco 'Bout It Mexican Fusion Tavo and Tarrah Hernandez turned their food truck into a restaurant dream-come-true with ultra-fresh tacos on hand-pressed corn tortillas. LD • BAR

VILLE, 231.378.2554

Lucky Dog Bar and Grille Burgers, smoked wings, brats, sandwiches, craft beer, cocktails. LD • BAR • $-$$ 223 S. BENZIE

• $-$$ 344 RIVER ST, MANISTEE, 231.887.4441

Platte River Inn Classic dining in a casual atmosphere. Steaks, Italian, Mexican. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 10921 MAIN ST., HONOR,

• $-$$ 5535 M-115, CADILLAC, 231.775.6751

The Roadhouse Fresh Mex with a cool cantina atmosphere.

$ 99 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.398.9174

Reflect Bistro and Lounge at Cambria Suites Hotel Breakfast, dinner and Happy Hour 4-7 p.m. daily. BD • BAR • $-$$$

231.227.1200

Timbers Restaurant Family-owned restaurant with steaks, prime-rib pasta , whitefish, craft beer, regional wines. LD • BAR T.J.’s Pub Take a step down from the sloped sidewalk for panini, mex and pizza below the stately Ramsdell Inn. LD • BAR •

Ursa Major Bistro Breakfast, burgers sandwiches. BLD • $-$$

245 S BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4250

CADILLAC Blue Heron Cafe Dazzling upscale sandwiches, soups and salads as well as from-scratch pastries. BL • $ 304 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5461

FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9136

North Channel Brewing Co. Watch the action at the drawbridge in a refined industrial atmosphere with meats smoked daily and excellent craft beers on tap. LD • BAR $-$$

FRANKFORT, 231.352.0118

LD • BAR • $-$$ 1058 MICHIGAN AVE., (US 31), BENZONIA, 231.882.9631

Smoke and Porter Public House An American smokehouse where farm-to-table and whole beast butchery meet the fire pits. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 1752 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5020 Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—Seafood,

The Hotel Frankfort Fine dining served up at this in-town inn. BLD • $-$$$ 231 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.8090 L’chayim Delicatessen NY-style deli with sandwiches and bagels. BL • $-$$ 325 MAIN STREET, FRANKFORT, 231.352.5220 Mayfair Tavern Burgers, steaks, fish. LD • BAR $-$$ 515

• BAR • $-$$ M-115, THOMPSONVILLE, 231.946.3585 OR 231.378.2000

BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4499

255 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.778.9000

231.352.4114

Geno’s Sports Bar and Grill Burgers, broasted chicken, pizza, soups, salads. LD • BAR • $ 14848 THOMPSON AVE., THOMPSON-

Randy’s Diner Soups, salads, sandwiches, all-you-can-eat cod. BLD • $ 1103 S. GARFIELD, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0789 Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of tequila and Latin American cuisine. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1544 US31,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.2773

FRANKFORT, 231.352.4702

• $-$$ 318 RIVER ST, MANISTEE, 231.887.4121

Thirsty Fish Sports Grille Family-friendly sports bar with seafood, burgers, steaks, pasta and a 600-gallon fish tank. Live music on the patio. LD • BAR • $-$$ 221 E. STATE ST., TRA-

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.1860

The Cabbage Shed Suds, and superb eats like seared scallops, rack of lamb and Ritz-crusted walleye. D • $-$$ 198

RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9213

231.929.090

Don’s Drive In A ’50s-style diner and drive-in with booths, burgers, fries, shakes, nostalgic jukebox. LD • $ 2030 U.S. 31 N.,

231.723.8000

FIND MORE NORTHERN MICHIGAN RESTAURANTS! Go to MyNorth.com/Restaurants

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sip outdoors | drinks

OUTDOOR SIPPIN’ Thanks to these innovative Northern Michigan restaurants, distilleries and breweries, you can enjoy a drink outside this winter while staying toasty in an igloo, tent or ice shanty. TEXT BY ALLISON JARRELL | PHOTO COURTESY OF IRON FISH DISTILLERY

IRON FISH DISTILLERY 14234 DZUIBANEK RD., THOMPSONVILLE, IRONFISHDISTILLERY.COM

HOP LOT BREWING CO. 658 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., SUTTONS BAY, HOPLOTBREWING.COM

Fireside cocktails, live music and heated tents are what patrons can expect at Iron Fish Distillery's Base Camp this winter. The village of heated, waterproof, breathable canvas tents debuted in November, offering guests the chance to enjoy spirits, cocktails, wood-fired pizza and snacks outdoors. Tents accommodate parties of four to six people and are reservation only (reserve online). There's a 90-minute time limit for tents, which are fully sanitized between uses. Live music will be scheduled throughout the winter. Follow @IronFishDistillery on Facebook for details.

Hop Lot is known for its iconic village of intimate igloos, and this winter is no exception. Igloo reservations—for two to six people—are recommended and can be scheduled via Hop Lot's social media sites or website (click the “Make a Reservation” button). Igloos are sanitized before and after each seating. Visitors to the beer garden can also take advantage of one of Hop Lot's five fire pits. Follow @HopLotBrewing on Facebook for taproom updates.

LITTLE TRAVERSE INN 149 E. HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY, LITTLETRAVERSEINN.COM

The patio at Blackrocks Brewery features a large heated tent with tables set up 12 feet apart to maintain ample space between parties. Or, for those who prefer to enjoy their craft beer by a roaring fire, seating next to fire pits is also available all winter long. To stay up to date on pub happenings, follow @BlackrocksBrewery on Facebook.

This December, Little Traverse Inn opened its new ice shanty village for outdoor dining. The village includes a fire pit with seating and five heated shanties (fully sanitized between uses) that are adorned with murals by local artists—enjoy a cubist landscape by Kaz McCue or a scene of northern lights by Michelle Schulte. For updates and weekly specials, follow @LittleTraverseInn on Facebook.

BLACKROCKS BREWERY 424 N. THIRD ST., MARQUETTE, BLACKROCKSBREWERY.COM

For more outdoor options, check out MyNorth.com/ OutdoorDrinks.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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love of the land

Frozen Splendor This Manistee beacon puts on a sparkling show each winter. BY ALLISON JARRELL | PHOTO BY HEATHER HIGHAM

Perhaps the only thing more spectacular than the leading lines of the catwalk that stretches from 5th Avenue Beach to the Manistee North Pier Lighthouse is seeing the walkway covered in massive, glistening icicles. Manistee's harbor has been marked by a lighthouse since the mid-1800s; after a few iterations, the current steel lighthouse was constructed on the north pier in 1927. In 2011, the light was transferred from the U.S. Department of the Interior to the City of Manistee and the Manistee County Historical Museum, which is now in charge of its restoration. The light-

house received a fresh coat of white paint in 2016 thanks to the museum's efforts, and donations are currently being collected for the painting of the interior. The elevated wooden catwalkâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;one of four remaining catwalks on Lake Michiganâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;serves an important purpose, providing safe access to the light during stormy weather. Lucky for us, this walkway also transforms into a breathtaking winter display. 523 5th Avenue, Manistee // manisteemuseum.org/lighthouse

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