LAVACA
Evan Lewis/elewis@vicad.com
Novosadâs BBQ and Sausage Market, 105 La Grange St., in Hallettsville, is owned and operated by Nathan Novosad. It was started by his grandfather, J.J. Novosad, in 1959.
NOVOSADâS SERVES BARBECUE, SLICE OF TIMES PAST BY ELENA ANITA WATTS ewatts@vicad.com
HALLETTSVILLE â The thick wooden island with a butcher-block top situated behind the counter of Novosadâs BBQ & Sausage Market in Hallettsville has seen a lot of briskets, pork ribs and sausage during the past 60 years. Vintage John Wayne and other western-themed artwork likely have graced the walls of the old downtown establishment just as long. And the back room blackened by decades of smoking meats tells a story all its own. âIf it doesnât smell like smoke, itâs not barbecue,â
said Ernie Foster, 67, who sat at a table culling through dried pinto beans in preparation for the next dayâs meal. âIâve traveled all over the country, and itâs about the best barbecue place around.â In the town called home by fewer than 3,000 residents, generations of Novosads have carried on a family tradition of serving sausage prepared according to the recipes of their Czechoslovakian ancestors. J.J. Novosad opened his doors in 1959, and before that, he sold several restaurants across Texas, including the one that has evolved into the Mikeskaâs barbecue chain.
ON THE MENU ⢠BBQ Plates ⢠Pork & Beef Sausage ⢠Pork Ribs ⢠Beef Brisket ⢠Half Chicken ⢠Pork Steak ⢠BBQ Sandwiches ⢠Sausage ⢠Sliced Brisket ⢠Pork
⢠BBQ by the Pound ⢠Sliced Brisket ⢠Pork Ribs ⢠Pork Steak ⢠Pork & Beef Sausage ⢠Chicken ⢠Sides by the cup, pint & quart ⢠Potato salad ⢠Homemade borracho beans ⢠Coleslaw
In 1983, Nathan Novosad, 60, J.J.âs grandson began running the restaurant. Together, they have served generations of the townâs families and countless travelers passing through on their way somewhere else. The small restaurant is imbued with a feeling of nostalgia, possible only with the passing of much time and many shared meals and conversations. As a young man, Foster bought barbecue from J.J. Novosad. He then started helping his friend Nathan Novosad around the place a couple of months ago. Foster, a self-described pork rib man, makes the coleslaw and potato salad. Novosad makes the homemade borracho beans. He begins smoking the meats, including brisket, pork steak, chicken and pork ribs, about 4:30âŻa.m. Plates, sandwiches and meats-by-the pound are on the menu. At the glass-encased meat counter near the entrance, No-
vosad sells pork and beef sausage, breakfast sausage, dried sausage and smoked bacon. Novosad called Judy Werner, 70, who works at Hair on the Square in downtown Hallettsville, by name when she walked over to pick up her togo order. She called Novosad a âsweetheartâ and described the place as âfriendly.â Novosadâs BBQ & Sausage Market made Texas Monthlyâs âTop 50 Barbecue Joints in Texasâ in 1997. âHometown people meet and greet, and others from all over Texas stop through,â Novosad said. âA lot of regulars come in on Fridays, and itâs a mixture of locals and out-of-town customers on Saturdays.â
ďĄ IF YOU GO NOVOSADâS BBQ & SAUSAGE MARKET 105 La Grange St., Hallettsville 361-798-2770 novosadsbbq.com Hours// 8âŻa.m.-2:30âŻp.m. Friday 8âŻa.m.-1:30âŻp.m. Saturday VICTORIAADVOCATE.COM
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