NOVOSAD’S SERVES BARBECUE AND SLICE OF TIMES PAST

Evan Lewis/elewis@vicad.com Novosad’s BBQ and Sausage Market, 105 La Grange St., in Hallettsville, is owned and operated by Nathan Novosad. It was started by his grandfather, J.J. Novosad, in 1959.

NOVOSAD’S SERVES BARBECUE, SLICE OF TIMES PAST

BY ELENA ANITA WATTS ewatts@vicad.com

HALLETTSVILLE – The thick wooden island with a butcher-block top situated behind the counter of Novosad’s BBQ & Sausage Market in Hallettsville has seen a lot of briskets, pork ribs and sausage during the past 60 years.

Vintage John Wayne and other western-themed artwork likely have graced the walls of the old downtown establishment just as long.

And the back room blackened by decades of smoking meats tells a story all its own.

“If it doesn’t smell like smoke, it’s not barbecue,” said Ernie Foster, 67, who sat at a table culling through dried pinto beans in preparation for the next day’s meal. “I’ve traveled all over the country, and it’s about the best barbecue place around.”

In the town called home by fewer than 3,000 residents, generations of Novosads have carried on a family tradition of serving sausage prepared according to the recipes of their Czechoslovakian ancestors. J.J. Novosad opened his doors in 1959, and before that, he sold several restaurants across Texas, including the one that has evolved into the Mikeska’s barbecue chain.

In 1983, Nathan Novosad, 60, J.J.’s grandson began running the restaurant. Together, they have served generations of the town’s families and countless travelers passing through on their way somewhere else.

The small restaurant is imbued with a feeling of nostalgia, possible only with the passing of much time and many shared meals and conversations.

As a young man, Foster bought barbecue from J.J. Novosad. He then started helping his friend Nathan Novosad around the place a couple of months ago. Foster, a self-described pork rib man, makes the coleslaw and potato salad.

Novosad makes the homemade borracho beans. He begins smoking the meats, including brisket, pork steak, chicken and pork ribs, about 4:30 a.m.

Plates, sandwiches and meats-by-the pound are on the menu.

At the glass-encased meat counter near the entrance, Novosad sells pork and beef sausage, breakfast sausage, dried sausage and smoked bacon.

Novosad called Judy Werner, 70, who works at Hair on the Square in downtown Hallettsville, by name when she walked over to pick up her togo order. She called Novosad a “sweetheart” and described the place as “friendly.”

Novosad’s BBQ & Sausage Market made Texas Monthly’s “Top 50 Barbecue Joints in Texas” in 1997.

“Hometown people meet and greet, and others from all over Texas stop through,” Novosad said. “A lot of regulars come in on Fridays, and it’s a mixture of locals and out-of-town customers on Saturdays.”

ON THE MENU

• BBQ Plates • Pork & Beef Sausage • Pork Ribs • Beef Brisket • Half Chicken • Pork Steak • BBQ Sandwiches • Sausage • Sliced Brisket • Pork • BBQ by the Pound • Sliced Brisket • Pork Ribs • Pork Steak • Pork & Beef Sausage • Chicken • Sides by the cup, pint & quart • Potato salad • Homemade borracho beans • Coleslaw

 IF YOU GO

NOVOSAD’S BBQ & SAUSAGE MARKET

105 La Grange St., Hallettsville 361-798-2770 novosadsbbq.com

Hours// 8 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Friday 8 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Saturday