Fah Thai Magazine - Inflight Magazine of Bangkok Airways Sep-Oct 2023

TO DINE FOR IN PHNOM PENH Read more

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

OLD GOLD IN AYUTTHAYA

SEP-OCT 2023

ON THE THAI TEAK TRAIL

ROYAL THEATRE RESURRECTED

MESSAGE FROM THE PRESIDENT

OVERTURES 12 SAVE THE DATES

Don’t forget to check out festivals and events in the kingdom of Thailand during September and October this year.

14 PEACEFUL PHAYAO

Nestled near Lampang, Chiang Mai, and Chiang Rai in northern Thailand, Phayao is set around a beautiful lake and considered one of the most serene towns in the country.

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18 YUMMY THOT MUN

A classic savoury snack, Thot Mun or red curry-flavoured fish cakes can be found in every corner of Thailand. Look out for these golden glistening treats on the street.

20 YAWNING MANGO, BOOING LEMON

With a strange name that matches its distinctive flavour, the brightpink Mamuang Hao Manao Ho fruit will stop you yawning with a succulent sourness that awakens your senses.

22 SWEET IN A BOWL

If you visit a boat noodle shop, look out for Khanom Thuay, a traditional sweet in a tiny ceramic bowl. This simple dessert helps soothe and refresh the palate after spicy, strong flavours.

24 ROYAL THEATRE REIGNS AGAIN

To celebrate its 90th birthday, Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre in Bangkok's old town is now open to entertain the public with art and culture shows.

FEATURES 28 SOCIAL-MEDIA FRIENDLY

Lights, camera, action! To livestream like a pro, equip yourself with new technology that will help make each of your social media posts unique and striking creations.

30 PHNOM PENH’S DELICIOUS CHAPTER

Explore the dining scene in Cambodia’s capital – where rooftop restaurants jostle for attention with a revolving bar, luxury dining, and traditional cuisine outlets.

42 THE GLORY OF AYUTTHAYA

50 THAI TEAK TALES

Follow Lisa Blackpink and explore Ayutthaya in a day – from the Gold Treasure Exhibition at the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum to a banquet beside a lotus pond at sunset.

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Writer Ron Emmons leads us on a historical journey through the teak boom in northern Thailand.

Golden Days in Ayutthaya

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HAPPENINGS

CORPORATE

Check out hip hangouts in Thailand and its neighbours.

60 BANGKOK 62 SAMUI 66 PHUKET/KRABI 69 CHIANG MAI / PATTAYA / TRAT

70 HONG KONG 71 SINGAPORE 72 PHNOM PENH / SIEM REAP 73 LUANG PRABANG

76 BANGKOK AIRWAYS NEWS 81 ROUTE MAP

CHECKING OUT 82 BAAN JABO VIEWPOINT

A stunning sight awaits visitors at Baan Jabo in Mae Hong Son province. The ethnic Black Lahu village greets early-risers with spectacular seas of mist and 360-degree mountain views.

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Chalermkrung's Next Act

This month’s cover: Phnom Penh’s Dining Phenomenon

Amidst a panoramic dreamscape that overlooks the pristine Crystal Bay, The Cliff warmly invites you to a truly unforgettable dining experience.

Mediterranean Cuisine: Asia

Luxury Scenic Setting: South East Asia

Most Romantic Atmosphere: Thailand

WORLD LU X U R Y R E S TA U R A N T AWA R D S WINNER 2018

2005

2006

2007

Most Romantic Atmosphere: South East Asia

WORLD LU X U R Y R E S TA U R A N T AWA R D S WINNER 2019

2009

WORLD LU X U R Y R E S TA U R A N T AWA R D S WINNER 2020

WORLD LU X U R Y R E S TA U R A N T AWA R D S WINNER 2022

2011

2014 2013

2014

2015

2017

2018

2019

HAPA 2011 - 2022 Most Exquisite Dining Experience

"Thailand's Best Restaurants" 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2017, 2018 & 2019

Most Trendy Casual Dining

Top Choice Award 2016

Top Choice Award 2017

2015

2016

2017

2018

2019

2020

Wine Spectator Award of Excellence 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019 & 2020

Restaurant Of The Year

Reservations Essential reservations@brmunns.com | www.thecliffsamui.com | +66 (0) 77 448 508 Open Monday - Sunday 12:00 pm - 12:00 am

BANGKOK AIRWAYS PUBLIC COMPANY LIMITED

99 Mu 14, Vibhavadi Rangsit Road, Chom Phon, Chatuchak, Bangkok 10900, Thailand www.bangkokair.com

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EDITORIAL

Email: editorial@fahthaimag.com

BEST USE OF PHOTOGRAPHY

BEST PHOTOGRAPHY

Editor-in-Chief Anutra Ungsuprasert Sub Editor Ramona Varma Deputy Editor Sarita Urupongsa Contributors Ariya Chaiyarit Jeremie Schatz Kankanit Wichiantanon Phoowadon Duangmee P/K/A Richard Augustin Ron Emmons Contributing Photographers Nattakarn Wichiantanon P/K/A Ron Emmons Samatcha Apaisuwan

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“FAH THAI” is the in-flight magazine of Bangkok Airways Public Company Limited and is edited and published by MPMI Group Co., Ltd. All articles and photographs published herein are created by the authors and photographers at their own discretion and do not necessarily represent the views of the airline. Bangkok Airways holds no responsibility or liability arising out of the publication of such articles and photographs.

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ESSENTIAL NOTES TO GUIDE YOUR TRAVELS

Magical Melodies

Photo: Bangkok’s International Festival of Dance and Music

Bangkok is set to burst into song and dance with the 25th International Festival of Dance and Music from October 22. Ready to wow the audiences are the Symphony Orchestra del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino under the baton of Zubin Mehta, classical ballet tales like Carmen, Anna Karenina and Swan Lake, and Broadway hits like West Side Story. For hip-hop lovers there’s The Roots by Cie Accrorap, and The Magnificent Six, the world’s top female illusionists and magicians.

NEWS & EVENTS 12 / THAILAND TREASURES 14 / A TASTE OF THAILAND 18 / FRUITFUL FINDS 20 / JUST DESSERT 22 / ART & CULTURAL MATTERS 24 / TECH TALK 28

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OVERTURES NEWS AND EVENTS

04

SEP 2023

PHUKET

PHIST 2023

NowBANGKOK

22

25 YEARS AND STILL DANCING

OCT 2023

The brightest lights of opera, ballet, and classical music from across the globe will be in Thailand to celebrate the silver jubilee of Bangkok’s International Festival of Dance and Music.

The Thailand Cultural Centre will once again host a bounty of must-see shows.

Among them are a stunning, tear-jerking new production of West Side Story, a captivating and musically masterful performance of Aida

by Helikon Opera, and Granada Flamenco Ballet’s soul-awakening classic, Carmen, along with Dance for Me, their unique journey through traditional Andalusian performing arts. www.bangkokfestivals.com

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Expect the unexpected when PHIST (Phuket Hotels Island Sustaining Tourism) 2023 rolls out a new and exciting format with 16 interactive workshops and over 30 exhibitors on Monday, September 4, at SAii Laguna Phuket. A diverse set of highly-focused, practical workshops will address the circular/sustainable economy, green hotel loans and start-up funds, glamping, farm-to-table restaurants, environmental hospitality design, data and measurement, greentech innovation, marketing sustainable hotels, and much, much more. The expanded exhibition showcase will allow attendees to source green tourism products and services, and hear the newest and most exciting ideas. phist.phukethotelsassociation.com

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OCT 2023

THAILAND

VEGGIE POWER!

The Vegetarian Festival 2023, aka the Nine Emperor Gods Festival, runs for 10 days in the ninth month of the Chinese lunar calendar.

Celebrated across Thailand as a form of bodily and spiritual purification, the festival sees devotees observe a vegetarian diet throughout the 10 days. The Taoist festival was brought to Thailand by Chinese immigrants hundreds of years ago and has since been integrated into the local culture. Festival hotspots are Phuket, Trang, Krabi, Bangkok, and Chiang Mai. However, the biggest and most famous celebrations are in Bangkok’s Chinatown and Phuket, where devotees pierce their mouths with various objects and walk over hot coals to cleanse their souls. This truly bizarre scene is certainly not for the squeamish, but it makes the Phuket Vegetarian Festival unique. If you are in Thailand for October, look out for restaurants and food stalls with yellow flags and red writing that denote they are selling vegetarian food.

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OCT 2023

LUANG PRABANG

RUNNING FOR CHILDREN

The Luang Prabang Half Marathon (LPHM) raises funds for the Lao Friends Hospital for Children (LFHC) to support its mission of providing free healthcare to over 30,000 children per year. As well as helping this noble cause, participants get to race through the beautiful UNESCO World Heritage town of Luang Prabang and catch a glimpse of monks’ sacred morning alms round. To register, visit www.luangprabanghalfmarathon.com

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OCT 2023

THAILAND, LAOS

END OF BUDDHIST LENT

19-28

Ok Phansa marks the end of rainy season and the three-month Buddhist Lent. Falling on the full moon of the 12th lunar month, the holy day is marked in most parts of Thailand and in Laos, where it is known as Boun Ok Phansa.

The occasion is marked by visiting temples, offering food, and various local traditions such as launching flower floats, candlelight processions, fireworks, illuminated boat processions, decorated temples, and oldtime carnivals.

Sale of alcohol is restricted on Ok Phansa and other holy days in Thailand. www.tatnews.org

OCT 2023

CHON BURI

RUN, BUFFALO, RUN

Wing Kwai, or the Buffalo Racing Festival, is one of the most exciting events of the calendar in Chon Buri province – about 100km from Bangkok. The annual race celebrates the water buffalo as an icon of Thailand’s agricultural way of life, giving locals a chance to get together, compete in adrenaline-rush competitions, and enjoy delicious, local cuisine. Buffalo racing dates back at least 150 years and takes place at the end of the rains retreat, also known as Ok Phansa or Buddhist Lent. www.tourismthailand.org

Photos: The Luang Prabang Half Marathon (LPHM)

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OVERTURES THAILAND TREASURES

Words by Phoowadon Duangmee

Northern Secrets Clockwise from Top Monks pray to the giant golden Buddha statue at Wat Si Khom Kham The golden pagoda and King of Nagas statue over the Phayao Lake Murals inside Wat Si Khom Kham on the bank of Phayao Lake

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Phayao province in northern Thailand hovers under the tourism radar thanks to its proximity to Chiang Mai, Lampang and Chiang Rai. But its many treasures, hidden just two and a half hours by car from Chiang Mai, make Phayao the perfect destination for a self-drive holiday. With astonishing scenery, rich Lanna culture and welcoming locals, there is so much to see and do in this northern destination.

Start by immersing yourself in the local crafts, sculptures, historic inscriptions and religious art by visiting the cleverly curated Phayao Cultural Exhibition Hall, set in a contemporary Lanna-style building. Inside, the large collection of artefacts – elephant fossils, 500-year-

The hidden gems of Phayao province make for a perfect treasure hunt by car

old pottery, an antique golden umbrella, inscriptions, stone Buddhas and historic documents – paint a picture of life here between the 11th and 19th centuries.

Just a short walk away is Wat Si Khom Kham. This grand temple hosts Phra Chao Ton Luang – the most sacred and beautiful giant Buddha statue in Phayao. Built between 1491 and 1524, the enormous Buddha stands 16 metres high and 14 metres wide. Whether you practice Buddhism or not, you will find the grandeur and beauty of Phra Chao Ton Luang a sight to behold.

Phayao is a lake town with a picturesque waterfront and breathtaking vistas.

Phayao Lake, or Kwan Phayao, spans 1,980 hectares and is home to some 50 species of freshwater fish. While you’re here, treat yourself to a boat cruise around the pristine lake. Wat Tilok Aram, the abandoned Buddhist monastery in the middle of the lake, is a star attraction. The lord of Phayao founded the monastery in the 15th century and gave it to King Tilokaraj, a famous, mighty ruler of Chiang Mai. Rising waters eventually isolated

Clockwise from Top Left Devotees make Devotees their way down participate in Kwan Phayao to a Buddhist pay homage to ceremony the Buddha image

A beautiful misty morning at Phu Langka, Phayao

The isolated Wat Tilok Aram at the centre of Phayao Lake

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OVERTURES THAILAND TREASURES

Clockwise from Top Right Wat Nantaram in Phayao is unique for its Burmese architecture Morning mist at Pha Chang Noi Viewpoint, Phu Langka National Park

Phayao’s famous steamed Nile tilapia served with a spicy dip The beautiful Than Sawan waterfall in Doi Phu Nang National Park

the historic monastery and its community.

But it’s worth taking a boat ride to see this unique religious island and bask in its spiritual power.

For dinner, make your way to the lakeside, where local restaurants offer sensational northern delights with an equally sensational view. Phayao’s most famous dish is steamed Nile tilapia (Pla Nin) stuffed with lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves. This simple dish reveals hidden depths when eaten with Nam Phrik Num, a traditional spicy Northern dip made with roasted green chillies. You’ll find yourself eating more than you should.

Phayao is dotted with charming small towns that brim with heritage and scenic beauty.

Chiang Kham, a small district an hour and a half away by car from downtown

Phayao, is home to the Tai Lue people – whose forefathers migrated from southern China. The Tai Lue are famed for their handwoven Pha Lai Nam Lai textiles.

Stepping inside the 70-year-old traditional Saengda Tai Lue House, you get a glimpse of architectural achievements, lifestyles and customs of the past. The living space, bedroom, terrace and kitchen with a veranda are well-preserved. The heritage home doubles as a Tai Lue Culture learning centre, where you can watch local women handling traditional looms to weave cloth and also shop for handicrafts.

Another unmissable architectural marvel is Wat Nantaram, a Buddhist temple near Chiang Kham food market.

Made entirely of teak, the temple is famed for its unique Burmese architecture of multi-tiered roofs shaped like a pyramid.

Each roof tells a different story. The highest roof shelters the Buddha image while the second covers the monk’s hall.

The lower roof, meanwhile, extends over the worshippers. The intricate architecture is inscribed with elegant motifs and animal carvings.

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To get a broader view of Phayao’s beauty, you can head to the surrounding highlands for some of the best mountaintop views in Thailand.

Just a short ride from Chiang Kham, the Pha Chang Noi Viewpoint will leave you breathless in more ways than one.

Pha Chang Noi (Cliff of the Small Elephant) towers over a dramatic mountain valley dotted with karst hills. Nestling on the hillsides are resorts with stylish cottages, for those who want to wake up at dawn and enjoy misty mountain views.

After breakfast, you can walk off the calories in the woodlands of Chiang Muan District before taking a plunge at Than Sawan Waterfall. Located in Doi Phu Nang National Park, the emerald-green water flows through the rainforest before falling into a succession of limestone ponds – perfect spots for swimming in the wild.

From here, it takes three and a half hours to get to Chiang Mai, or about an hour to downtown Phayao.

A Model Of Gracious Living

SUNSET SESSIONS

Live DJ: Saturdays Live DJ with Saxophone:

Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sundays SELECTION OF FINE CIGARS

OVERTURES A TASTE OF THAILAND

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Glistening fishcakes with a delightfully ‘bouncy’ texture, Thot Mun Pla Krai are a sought-after palate pleaser

Thot Mun Pla Krai (clown featherback fishcakes) are a classic Thai delicacy that usually feature high on appetiser lists. They also serve as a healthy street snack between meals as they come packed with protein and Omega-3s.

As their name indicates, the most popular fish for these cakes is the clown featherback (Pla Krai), which gives them their delicious chewy texture and golden hue. The fish, of course, must be fresh.

To make them, the fish must be ground or chopped to a fine paste. It is then pounded or kneaded with other ingredients including fish sauce, sugar, finely sliced winged beans or long beans, kaffir lime zest and other spices to add an extra zing.

The perfect Thot Mun Pla Krai must be “bouncy” in texture and slightly savoury to balance the natural sweetness of the fish. The crunchiness of the beans should also punctuate every bite.

Once the cakes are deep-fried to a golden brown, you can prepare the dip or Ajat, which is usually diced cucumbers, ground peanuts and red spur chillies soaked in white vinegar with a touch of salt and sugar. The dip’s sweet-tangy flavour cuts through the oiliness of the cakes.

Thot Mun Pla Krai features in most Thai restaurant menus and if you’re lucky you will also find them served piping hot in fresh markets and food courts.

Fah T Pic hai’s k Capital Idea Treat your tastebuds to a culinary tour of five traditional Thai appetisers at The Local in the heart of Bangkok. On the itinerary are noodles in northern curry; roasted coconut, lime and shallot in lotus petals; fishcakes; deep fried chicken in pandan leaves; and rice crackers with Thai toppings.

Open daily 11.30am-10.30pm, 32-32/1 Sukhumvit 23, Bangkok, +66 (0) 2664 0664, thelocalthaicuisine.com

Northern Legend Chiang Mai’s legendary fish noodle shop Soi Tee is famous for its bouncy fish balls, but gourmets also flock here for Thot Mun Pla Krai. Open daily 8am-7pm, 6/10 Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai, +66 (0) 95 642 0791, facebook.com/Soitee88

Savour Phuket Kimjae in Phuket serves scrumptious Thot Mun Pla Krai but is also known for other Southern delicacies like Phad Thai-style Gui noodles, Hor Mok (curried fish steamed in banana leaf), and Gian (fried pork rolls mixed with herbs) to name a few.

Open daily 10am-6pm, 36 Krabi Rd, Phuket, +66 (0) 84 646 5197, facebook.com/kimjaephuket

WORDS SARITA URUPONGSA

Delicious Discs of Gold

OVERTURES FRUITFUL FINDS

The Fruit That Yawns and Goes Boo

The Bengal currant has the strangest name in Thai, but its fabled healthgiving powers are back in fashion

This fabled power may have some basis in truth. The Bengal currant is widely used in Indian traditional Ayurvedic medicine. The fruit, leaves and roots of the currant are used to treat acidity, indigestion, fresh and infected wounds, skin disease, cough, stomach ache, anorexia, and diarrhoea, to name a few. It is rich in iron, vitamins C and A, calcium and phosphorus. It comes packed with antioxidants, too, which help reduce the risk of heart disease, some cancers and slow cell damage caused by free radicals.

The berry tastes sour and slightly bitter when unripe, but gets sweeter as it ripens. Apart from being eaten fresh, the Bengal

currant stars in savoury dishes like spicy Thai salads. It is also pickled in syrup, dried and rolled into sheets, preserved as jam and jelly, or turned into juice and wine. Other uses include as a flavouring for cookies, crêpes and ice cream.

The fruit grows freely in tropical climes, especially South Asian countries like India, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Afghanistan and Bangladesh.

Though the health benefits of the Bengal currant used to be overlooked and its thorny tree uprooted, its unique name now seems to have caught people’s imagination and the “yawning mango and booing lemon” has become trendy again.

WORDS ARIYA CHAIYARIT

PHOTO & STYLE SAMATCHA APAISUWAN

The bright pink, berry-sized Bengal currant (Carissa carandas) has a very odd name in Thai – mamuang hao manao ho, ho, which means “mango yawning, lemon booing”.

The comparison with lemons and mangos may come from the berry’s sour taste when it’s unripe and sweetness when it ripens.

The Bengal currant has mystical qualities in Thai culture, as recorded in the Ramakien (Ramayana) and the folktale of “Sung Thong, the Prince of the Golden Conch Shell”.

However, the fruit plays an even bigger role in the legend of “The Twelve Sisters” or Nang Sip Song.

Song.

In this story, the currant has magical powers to heal any disease.

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OVERTURES JUST DESSERT

Slurping Heaven from a Bowl

textures that both surprise and delight most palates. The bottom layer is a sweet and fragrant blend of coconut sugar, rice flour and pandan juice, while the top is a rich and savoury concoction of succulent coconut cream, rice flour and a pinch of salt. When the sweetness collides with the tang of salt, you get a dessert that can be highly addictive.

Khanom Thuay is sold by roadside vendors and traditional-sweet stores. If you can’t find one, look out for one of the many restaurants that sell boat noodles. They serve this dessert to soothe mouths set on fire by the spicy boat noodles.

WORDS SARITA URUPONGSA

This tiny custard pudding teases tastebuds with a tantalising balance of sweet and savoury

Fragrant and creamy with a sultry blend of sweetness and saltiness Khanom Thuay or steamed coconut milk custard is eaten from a tiny ceramic bowl with a tiny wooden spoon.

Khanom Thuay (sweet in a bowl) originated in China and was introduced to Thailand by traders during the Ayutthaya Kingdom (1351-1767). Though originally served only at royal events, traditional rites and festivals, it was too delicious to be reserved for special occasions and quickly became popular nationwide.

The custard comes in two layers of contrasting flavours and

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OVERTURES ARTS & CULTURAL MATTERS

Thailand’s Hollywood Reborn

Home to the golden age of Thai entertainment, Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre is now bringing visitors new pleasures

Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre King Rama VII is pictured visiting the Sala Chalermkrung construction site

was planned to commemorate the

Thailand’s entertainment industry,

150th anniversary of our modern

dating back almost a century. Today,

Rattanakosin Kingdom. King Rama

the theatre is embarking on a modern

VII gave orders to construct the Phra

and exciting journey while continuing to

Phuttha Yodfa or Memorial Bridge to link

serve people’s passion for entertainment

Phra Nakhon and Thon Buri, but also

and culture.

hatched the idea for a giant theatre to

Thais are known for their fun-loving

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But in 1930, a massive monument

is a treasure trove of memories in

entertain the public with performances

nature, reflected in the changing forms

and movies – a passion the monarch

of entertainment they have created

shared. Thus, the magnificent Sala

down the years. However, one element

Chalermkrung was born as the pride

of the entertainment industry has

of the nation, reflecting its booming

been a constant since ancient times

art and cultural scene, with the king

– theatre. Before the 20th century,

generously donating up to 9 million baht

Thailand boasted no more than 20

for its construction.

theatres, scattered in Phra Nakhon and

Designed by renowned French-

Thon Buri on either side of Bangkok’s

educated architect MC Samaichalerm

Chao Phraya River. Most were small and

Kridakara, the theatre opened on July 2,

old-fashioned.

1933. Sala Chalermkrung blended

contemporary Western architecture with traditional Thai art, offering more than 2,000 seats and state-of-the-art lighting, colour, and sound technology befitting its status as a royal theatre.

Sala Chalermkrung was even equipped with an automatic curtain-pulling system and could accommodate all types of performance, from movies and music to stage plays. It boasted an air-conditioning system and was the only venue that showed voiced films, making it the region’s most luxurious and modern theatre at the time.

The limited number of Thai productions meant only Western movies were screened at Sala Chalermkrung to begin with. When the outbreak of World War II slowed film production, the theatre incorporated stage plays into its programme. Once the war ended, Sala Chalermkrung returned stronger than ever with a reputation as Thailand’s entertainment hub for almost two decades. It was nicknamed the Thai Hollywood, where high society and entertainment industry professionals came to mingle. It also generated countless jobs, stars and enthusiasts who left their mark on Thailand’s golden age of entertainment.

With its movies, plays, music and comedies, the popularity of Sala Chalermkrung put the spotlight on surrounding communities. A buzzing commercial neighbourhood grew up around the theatre, reflected in old shops and businesses that remain open today.

However, economic and social changes saw a shift in people’s lifestyles, and the outdated technology of Sala Chalermkrung led to its closure in 1991. But the place was reborn in all

From Top King Rama VII bestowed the name Sala Chalermkrung in honour of the architect and the Rattanokosin Era’s 150th anniversary Inside Theatre No 3 Images of gods adorn the theatre’s entrance Thailand’s diverse beauty is evoked in ‘Rabam Si Phak’ (Dance of the Four Regions)

its grandeur two years later, when it reopened under the new name of Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre.

Over its 90 glorious years in business, this classic venue has brought

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OVERTURES ARTS & CULTURAL MATTERS

GRAND CELEBRATION To mark its 90th birthday, Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre presented a special performance of “Phuean Gaew Mia Kwan” (Best Friend, Beloved Wife) by the famed Likay traditional folk theatre troupe Pongsak Suansri on July 2. Based on the glory days of Ayutthaya, this famous story has been popular for almost a century.

The traditional tale was retold in a contemporary storytelling style under the direction of master Pongsak Suansri himself.

Clockwise from Top “Khon” is the highest form of Thai performance art. In here performers are portraying the story of “Hanuman Jab Nang Suvannamaccha” (Hanuman’s catch of Suvannamaccha) “Rabam Boran Khadee” (Ancient Dance) is part of the Thai performance art “Silpa Thai” that is shown through this year at Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre Sala Chalermkrung in the past

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happiness to generations of Thais,

A ticket combining visits to the

earning its place as cherished national

Emerald Buddha Temple and the Grand

heritage. And it continues to deliver

Palace with a performance of “Silpa Thai”

a rich menu of entertainment for

(Thai Art) at Sala Chalermkrung can be

Bangkokians and visitors alike.

bought at the palace for 500 baht. Three

Nowadays, tourists can experience

25-minute performances are presented daily

its splendour and immerse themselves

from Monday to Friday, at 1pm, 2.30pm and

in Thai culture through a Khon

4pm. A shuttle bus runs from the Phiman

masked-dance performance at this

Deves Gate of the palace to the theatre,

legendary theatre. Khon, with its

leaving 30 minutes before the start of

exquisite costumes and lavish stories

each performance. Or tickets for the

based on the Ramayana, is considered

performance alone are available at Sala

the highest form of traditional Thai

Chalermkrung Royal Theatre for 400 baht.

performing art. The theatre also offers

Open daily 10am-6pm, 66 Charoen Krung

traditional dance performances that

Road, Bangkok, +66 (0) 2 224 4499,

reflect the beauty of Thai culture.

salachalermkrung.com

EVER-CHANGING EXHIBITION WAFTS STORY OF OUR NOMADIC LIVES SMOKE SIGNALS Hong Kong’s Para Site art centre has come alive with “signals…瞬息”. The group exhibition uses sounds, smells, movement, and smoke to tell the story of dispersed communities, migratory flows, and how technology, science, and architecture intertwine. Kinetic artworks, communications, and interventions will rotate, unfold, fragment, or dissolve throughout the exhibition period.

Setting a new direction for Para Site, the experimental show will unfold in three phases. From March 17, “signals…storms and patterns” focused on self-organisation and the politics of space in contemporary art. From June 9, “signals…folds and splits” reflected on the temporary stillness of artworks and alternative economies of time, while from August 11, “signals... here and there” poses questions about contemporary global issues.

Open Wednesday-Sunday, 12-7pm, Para Site 22/F, Wing Wah Industrial Bldg. 677 King’s Road, Quarry Bay, Hong Kong, para-site.art

MOONWALK HERE La Luna Gallery has been a big name in Chiang Mai’s art scene since its debut 20 years ago. Located in an artistic neighbourhood of textiles, handicrafts, and authentic Lanna art, this contemporary gallery showcases paintings and sculptures from up and coming Thai and Asian artists.

Meanwhile, the garden of this beautiful colonial house hosts events and openings that provide opportunities for talented young artists and also support the local art boom. Visitors can check out the ever-expanding light poured on contemporary art by La Luna, which now reaches beyond Chiang Mai and across Southeast Asia.

Open Thursday-Sunday, 9am-6pm, 193 Charoen Rat Road, Wat Ket, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai, +66 (0) 85 695 0047, www.lalunagalleries.com

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OVERTURES TECH TALK

Wanna Go Viral?

Words: Richard Augustin

Essential gadgets to boost your social media game

SMARTPHONE STUDIO ROTOLIGHT ULTIMATE VLOGGING KIT

Never underestimate the power of lighting, especially if you want to look good in photos and videos. This is where the Rotolight Ultimate Vlogging Kit comes in handy. The RL48 ring-light delivers top-notch illumination thanks to a lightweight desktop tripod with adjustable smartphone mount – it’s like carrying around your very own mini studio. Not only will it boost your lens looks, it’s also simple and quick to set up and operate. Three AA batteries offer four hours of selfie heaven. Price: 4,080 baht / www.ubuy.co.th

SNAP TO IT SONY Α7III

This top-notch camera will take your Insta game to the next level with its DSLRquality images. The Sony α7iii is a versatile and very portable shooter with easyto-work controls. Key features include dynamic range, lightning-fast autofocus and rich colour quality. The impressive 24-megapixel resolution is coupled with a 35mm full-frame image sensor to generate pin-sharp pictures for both social media and print. Price: 63,990 baht (body only) / www.sony.co.th

MOVIE HIGHS DJI MAVIC 3

If you’re looking to enhance your travel videos with new perspectives and cinematic flair, the DJI Mavic 3 deserves your attention. A top-of-the-range drone from tech giants DJI, the Mavic 3 boasts a dual Hasselblad camera fitted with a 4/3” CMOS sensor producing super-crisp images of up to 20MP resolution. It also comes with a 162mm telephoto lens and a 5.1K Ultra HD video camera.

Compact and easy to carry, this eye in the sky boasts a 3-axis stabilisation system to ensure smooth shots at soaring speed. Price: 73,890 baht / www.phantomthailand.com

QUICK ON THE DRAW BELLROY TECH KIT ETKB-BAS-220 BASALT

If you’re looking to capture split-second action to create a viral video, you need to have all your essential tools within easy reach. The Bellroy Tech Kit ETKB-BAS-220 Basalt is a neat holster for speedy response time and hot shots. The slim pouch zips out for easy access and comes with deep pockets, magnetic flaps, and straps to hold your accessories and wires.

Made from recycled fabric, it’s also backed by a three-year warranty. Price: 2,090 baht / www.central.co.th

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STEADY SHOT INSTA360 FLOW

Stability is the essential ingredient for creating smooth professional-looking video, and a gimbal is the tool that produces it. The Insta360 Flow promises to transform your smartphone into a steady, ultra-smooth, shake-free video camera with its tri-axis stabilisation. Even better, the next-generation AI target-tracking keeps the subject in frame and in focus with unmatched accuracy and flexibility.

Price: 5,209 baht / www.shopee.co.th

GRAB THE MIC AUDIO TECHNICA ATR3350

POCKET SOCKET AUKEY PB-N73 USB C POWER BANK

There’s nothing worse than running out of power halfway through a post. That’s why it’s always good to have extra juice in your pocket, and the Aukey PB-N73 USB C Power Bank fulfils that need beautifully. This ultra-slim, lightweight 10000mAh Portable Charger offers USB-C Ports as well as a Micro USB port while boasting 15% faster charging than rivals. It’s compatible with both Android and iOS devices as well as other battery-powered gadgets. Price: 890 baht / www.firster.com

Small, portable and affordable, the Audia Technica Atr3350 microphone may offer the biggest boom for your buck on the market. The newscaster-style miniature mic is perfect for videos with professional-level sound. It comes with a dual-mono 3.5mm output plug to connect to a camera, DSLR or handheld audio stereo. An inline battery pack with on/off switch provides convenient control, while the omnidirectional pickup pattern offers full coverage to capture sounds and dialogue for your latest post. Price: 1,190 baht / www.lazada.co.th

W-W-W-WIPEOUT! AKASO BRAVE 7 LE SERIES

For adventurers everywhere, a tough waterproof camera like the AKASO Brave 7 LE Series is essential for snagging those adrenaline-fuelled shots. With its IPX8 water-resistant body and dual-screen design capable of shooting 4k video and high-quality 20MP photos, this camera is the ideal companion for extreme sports like kitesurfing, diving and other adventurous pastimes.

Price: 5,099 baht / www.lazada.co.th

INVISIBLE SELFIE STICK BR-E1 WIRELESS REMOTE CONTROL

Selfie sticks are useful, but what if you need a properly framed photograph from a distance further than your arm? The BR-E1 Wireless Remote Control provides the solution, allowing you to wirelessly snap your camera’s shutter via Bluetooth up to 5 metres away. It can also be used to stop and start video recording over the same distance. Price: 1,290 baht / https://th.canon

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PHNOM PENH

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HIGH ON s e t i B e v o L Words Kankanit Wichiantanon

Cambodia’s capital seduces with a wonderful blend of Khmer, French, Vietnamese, Chinese and Indian cuisines

Photo: Rosewood Phnom Penh

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PHNOM PENH

T

uk-tuk rides, fresh fruit on ice, and narrow streets vibrant with food vendors and shophouses – all these made us fall in love with Cambodia’s capital, Phnom Penh.

Overlooking the confluence of three rivers – the Mekong, Tonlé Sap, and Bassac – this historical city has been carved by the currents of time, from the great Khmer Empire to the height of French colonialism and the dark Khmer Rouge era.

Lost along with the millions of lives tragically taken during Khmer Rouge rule from 1975 to 1979 was much of the Khmer culinary heritage. But as the deep wounds of genocide heal, Cambodia is now Photo: Rosewood Phnom Penh

Clockwise from Top The picturepostcard vista of Phnom Penh from one of the city’s highest rooftop bars, Sora

Photo: FiveFive Rooftop Restaurant & Bar at Hyatt Regency Phnom Penh

FiveFive Rooftop Restaurant & Bar at Hyatt Regency Phnom Penh with a stunning cityscape Tuk-tuks await passengers in front of Rosewood Phnom Penh Fresh fruit stalls at Central Market

Photo: Rosewood Phnom Penh

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rediscovering its rich culture bit by bit in search of a harmonious and prosperous future.

The purpose of our visit was to take a big and delicious bite out of its fast-growing capital. Phnom Penh’s streets are teeming with drool-inducing food carts, cafés and restaurants, while the fresh markets are a riot of food vendors, fresh meat, catches of the day, local vegetables and exotic fruit.

As well as classic Khmer dishes like Nom Banh Chok, Amok, and Lap Khmer, the locals are huge fans of sandwiches. Filled baguettes, a lip-smacking legacy of French rule, are sold at countless Nompang, or Cambodian sandwich shops and

carts dotted throughout the city.

If bread is your daily heaven, the odds of finding great sandwiches are wonderfully in your favour – a statement backed by the embarrassing amount of nompangs we gobbled down.

Cambodian food is a wonderful blend of Khmer, French, Vietnamese, Chinese, and Indian cuisines. The growing appetite for Korean and Japanese delights, along with rooftop dining, have breathed new life into the food scene of Phnom Penh. We’ve curated a list of the best restaurants and bars from our recent visit. Use this menu to make your trip to Phnom Penh memorably mouthwatering.

Wheretoeat

Perched above the Phnom Penh cityscape, The Winds is one of newest and highest rooftop bars in town. Tucked on the 44th and 45th floors of the recently opened Fairfield by Marriott Phnom Penh, the bar serves creative concoctions, scrumptious bites and a bird’s-eye view of the capital.

Prefer a hearty meal over a cocktail session? Glide down to the 27th floor for the hotel’s all-day-dining haunt, where you’ll find a fusion of Western and Asian staples, including Khmer classics like Nom Banh Chok and Bay Srob.

Photos: Fairfield by Marriott Phnom Penh

THE WINDS

Address: Fairfield by Marriott Phnom Penh, Russian Federation Blvd, 10 Village Opening hours: Mon-Sun, 4pm-11pm.

Website: www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/pnhfifairfield-phnom-penh/dining

THE MEKONG Photos: NagaWorld Integrated Resort

HALL OF GOLDEN CHIMES Golden Chimes. Diners can choose to savour the Live Mekong Lobster steamed with Shaoxing Wine or Peking Duck from their à la carte menu, or opt for the all-you-can-eat dim sum menu loaded with a wide selection of delicious dumplings.

Address: NagaWorld2 Park, Level 5, 120101, Samdech Hun Sen St, Phnom Penh Opening hours: Mon-Sun, 11am-11pm.

Website: www.nagaworld.com/ restaurant/hall-of-golden-chimes

Photos: Courtyard by Marriott Phnom Penh

For a one-stop destination to satisfy every lifestyle choice – and craving – head to NagaWorld Integrated Resort. Dubbed Cambodia’s largest hotel and casino, the property boasts 1,658 hotel rooms, numerous gaming halls, over 15 restaurants, bars and clubs, spas and even a live show theatre – spread through every nook and cranny of its two colossal gold-themed buildings, which are linked by an underground shopping centre.

During the visit, we ate our weight in expertly prepared Cantonese fare at the Hall of

Foodies, don’t sleep through The Mekong’s First Saturday Brunch, which brims with a scrumptious selection of seafood, Khmer and international staples plus a cornucopia of confections to cater to your sweet-tooth. Dubbed the longest brunch in Phnom Penh, from 11.45am until 3.30pm, it features fun-filled activities like a lucky draw and live entertainment to keep kids and adults alike amused through the feast. Can’t make it there on the first Saturday for brunch? This all-day-dining venue within Courtyard by Marriott Phnom Penh also serves up a lip-smacking breakfast buffet and à la carte menu all day, every day.

Address: 1st Floor, Courtyard by Marriott Phnom Penh, No 115 Street 214 At Corner Street 63 Opening hours: Mon-Sun, 6.30am-10.30pm.

Website: www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/ pnhcy-courtyard-phnom-penh/dining

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PHNOM PENH Photo: Hyatt Regency Phnom Penh Photo: Celeste Revolving Skybar

CELESTE REVOLVING SKYBAR There’s no such thing as the perfect table at Celeste Revolving Skybar. The rotating bar with a capacity of 240 people nestled on the 43rd floor of The Penthouse Residence offers a 360-degree view as a side to your scrumptious meal. Every moment comes with a different view of Phnom Penh. Your appetiser could be served with a vista of the Mekong River while dessert may be illuminated by skyscrapers like Vattanac Tower.

Behind its charming colonial-style facade, Hyatt Regency Phnom Penh hides a contemporarymeets-Khmer interior, with luxurious rooms and suites, as well as a world of deliciousness presented in the form of various top-notch dining establishments.

The all-day-dining Market Café Restaurant & Lounge is the place to gorge on global cuisine in a sun-lit, sophisticated setting that exudes serenity. Here, you’ll find everything from Western classics to Asian comfort fare and well-loved pastries and beverages. Must-tries include sustainably sourced Dover Sole bathed in brown butter, Smoked Salmon Sandwich, and Khmer delights like Fish Amok. Stop by for breakfast, brunch, lunch,

afternoon tea, or dinner. Family Buffet Brunch is also available every Sunday.

If you happen to drop by in the evening, we recommend checking out the FiveFive Rooftop Restaurant & Bar to enjoy a cocktail or two paired with the magnificent Mekong River vista, or travel back a century in the Paris Métro-themed underground bar, Metropole Underground, which we fell in love with.

Address: Hyatt Regency Phnom Penh, #55, Street 178, Sangkat Chey Chumnas Opening hours: Mon-Fri, 6am-10pm; Sat-Sun, 6.30am-10pm Website: www.hyatt.com/en-US/hotel/cambodia/hyatt-regencyphnom-penh/pnhrp/dining

Photos: Rosewood Phnom Penh

Address: The Penthouse Residence, 43rd floor, Phnom Penh Opening hours: Mon-Thu, 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sun, 5pm-1am Website: celeste-skybar.com

MARKET CAFÉ RESTAURANT & LOUNGE

SORA Here’s an easy way to elevate your night to fresh heights in Phnom Penh. Sip your way to heaven at Sora, an alluring rooftop bar standing proud on the 37th floor of Rosewood Phnom Penh. Cocktail aficionados can choose between three stylish zones to sip your sundowner: Sora Outdoor with a panoramic view of Phnom Penh, Sora Indoor with a rapturous river view, and the Whisky Library, where you can savour a splendid selection of whiskies and puff on a fine cigar.

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Fans of the World’s 50 Best Bars are also in for a treat, thanks to Sora’s collaboration with the prestigious academy. Every month, Sora welcomes an esteemed mixologist from the award-winning list to showcase their creative cocktail flair.

Address: Rosewood Phnom Penh, 37th floor Vattanac Capital Tower, 66 Monivong Boulevard, Sangkat Wat Phnom Opening hours: Mon-Sun, 5pm-12am Website: www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/phnom-penh/ dining/sora

Photos: Courtyard by Marriott Phnom Penh

PHNOM PENH

THE DECK As frequent visitors to Marriott Hotels across different cities, one thing we know for certain is that the food never lets you down, so we were eager to try Courtyard

by Marriott Phnom Penh. Drinks plus sweet hospitality and a gorgeous vista from the 20th floor at its poolside rooftop bar, The Deck, maintain the high quality. Add flavour to your night with their wide selection of spirits, cocktails and mocktails as your eyes feast on the mighty Mekong River right in front of you.

Address: Courtyard by Marriott Phnom Penh, No 115 Street 214 At Corner Street 63, Cambodia Opening hours: Mon-Sun, 4pm-11pm Website: www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/pnhcycourtyard-phnom-penh/dining

CUTS

Photos: Dara Airport City Hotel & Spa

When it comes to succulent steaks, Cuts doesn’t cut corners. This snazzy steakhouse within Rosewood Phnom Penh delivers impeccable cuts expertly prepared by the chef-butcher team. What really made this place alluring to us was the elegant service and picture-perfect setting of dark wood, red leather and gold, accented by warm lighting. The roaring wood-fired oven at the heart of the restaurant doles out warm crusty loaves, which to us ardent bread fans, was a highlight on its own.

Indulge your meat lust by opting for the premium Full-Blood Wagyu Beef, aka the Chocolate Wagyu from the farmers of Mayura Station, South Australia, where cows are fed with a grain-chocolate blend that lends a subtle sweetness to the cuts. Pair that with the tipple of your choice from the wine vault stacked high with over 3,000 bottles.

Address: Rosewood Phnom Penh, Vattanac Capital Tower, 66 Monivong Boulevard, Sangkat Wat Phnom Opening hours: Mon-Sun, 12pm-2.30pm for lunch and 6pm-10.30pm for dinner Website: www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/phnom-penh/dining/cuts

Flavour your day with an umami-packed feast at The Blue Sky Restaurant situated in Dara Airport City Hotel & Spa. When it comes to authentic Khmer cuisine, the all-daydining restaurant offers some of the best versions of your fave dishes. The restaurant also offers diners a chance to dive deep beyond the familiar Cambodian classics.

Address: Dara Airport City Hotel & Spa, Ratana Plaza Building, Russia Blvd, Sangkat, Toeuk Thla, Khan Sen Sok Opening hours: Mon-Sun, 6am-11pm Website: www.darahotels.com/daraairportcityhotelandspa

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Photos: Rosewood Phnom Penh

THE BLUE SKY RESTAURANT

The Beauty of Simplicity The new Fairfield by Marriott Phnom Penh in the capital’s heart is just steps away from the Independence Monument, the Royal Palace, Wat Phnom, the National Museum and Sisowath Quay.

The hotel nestles in the city’s central point of Chip Mong Tower, perfect for shopping and dining, and home to the largest cinema from early 2024.

Three-hundred guest rooms come with luxury features like ergonomic chairs, large TV, walk-in power shower, and complimentary Wi-Fi. For dining, there’s the “All

Day Dining” restaurant on the 27th floor, or The Winds Rooftop Bar & Lounge on the 44th-45th floors for delicious views and cocktails.

For health, the 24/7 fitness centre and infinity pool deliver spectacular views on the 28th floor.

The event rooms on floors 25-26 combine international standards with city panoramas, while the sky garden and waiting lounge are for work or relaxation before onward journeys.

The Fairfield by Marriott Phnom Penh promises you a relaxing stay with hospitality from the heart.

Fairfield by Marriott Phnom Penh

Chip Mong Tower, Russian Federation Blvd, 10 Village Sangkat Phsar Depou 3 Khan Toulkouk, Phnom Penh, Cambodia 120403

contact

+855 23 626 8888

website

www.marriott.com/pnhfi

reservations

ffi.pnhfi.reservation@ fairfieldinn.com

PHNOM PENH

Wheretostay COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT PHNOM PENH Marriott members and non-members alike will find Courtyard by Marriott Phnom Penh a delight thanks to its comfortable and contemporary features and facilities, as well as its location surrounded by a banquet of local restaurants.

Photos: Courtyard by Marriott Phnom Penh

Address: Courtyard by Marriott Phnom Penh, No 115 Street 214 At Corner Street 63 Website: www.marriott.com/en-us/ hotels/pnhcy-courtyard-phnompenh/overview

ROSEWOOD PHNOM PENH For an indulgent stay, Rosewood Phnom Penh with its uniquely elegant design, exquisite amenities and excellent location in the heart of the city promises a sensory experience you won’t forget too soon.

Address: Rosewood Phnom Penh, Vattanac Capital Tower, 66 Monivong Boulevard, Sangkat Wat Phnom Website: www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/phnom-penh

FAIRFIELD BY MARRIOTT PHNOM PENH

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Photos: Fairfield by Marriott Phnom Penh

Address: Fairfield by Marriott Phnom Penh, Russian Federation Blvd, 10 Village Website: www.marriott.com/en-us/ hotels/pnhfi-fairfield-phnom-penh/ overview

Photos: Rosewood Phnom Penh

Occupying the upper floors of one of Cambodia’s tallest buildings, the Chip Mong Tower, Fairfield by Marriott Phnom Penh offers striking views of Phnom Penh along with exceptional F&B programmes. The seafood-studded Fairfield Family Brunch, which is served every other week at the all-day-dining restaurant, is a good enough reason to stay here. .

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Ayutthaya Words & Photos: P/K/A

One day is all you need to see the unearthed treasures of Siam’s old capital

I

n the 17th century, Siam’s old capital of Ayutthaya was renowned among European traders for its wealth and thriving international trade – particularly gold. The city’s palaces, temples and towering spires glittered with gold brought by merchants from Persia, Sumatra, Java, Malayu, and China, according to Simon de La Loubère, a French envoy to the Ayutthaya Kingdom in 1687 during the reign of King Narai.

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Clockwise from Bottom Left The Prang replica is adorned with intricately patterned gold sheets discovered in the crypts of Wat Ratchaburana Cover of the votive stupa, made of gold and precious stone and receptacle containing Buddha’s relics from the crypt of Wat Mahathat Gold artefacts found in the crypts of Wat Ratchaburana

Ayutthaya goldsmiths were skilled in crafting paper-thin gold tablet inscriptions sent by Siamese kings to the rulers of other cities.

The dazzling wealth of Ayutthaya was on display at the royal welcome banquet for French envoys, where the fruit came served in gold bowls.

The new Ayutthaya Gold Treasure Exhibition Building at the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum showcases a stunning collection of over 2,000 gold artifacts excavated from the old capital’s most sacred temples. They include paper-thin embossed gold plaques, miniature royal regalia, Buddha images, crowns, and headdresses.

These priceless treasures were unearthed from the vaults of Wat Ratchaburana, Wat Maha That, Wat Phra Ram, Wat Phra Si Sanphet, and Sri Suriyothai Pagoda.

The main exhibition area displays gold artefacts excavated from the crypt of Wat Ratchaburana. Spectacular highlights are the Phra Sang Khan Chai Sri (Royal Sword of Victory) embellished with quartz and gemstone-like coloured glass, the Chula Mongkut (a coronet made of four strips of gold and decorated with coloured glass) and Phra Suwan Mala (a headdress made with gold thread). Also featured is a model of the three-storey crypt inside Wat Ratchaburana’s central prang where the treasures and Buddha relics were stored. Visitors can also view the sacred relics unearthed from nearby historical sites such as the seventh-tired stupa in Wat Mahathat’s crypt.

The Ayutthaya Gold Treasure Exhibition Building is considered

The Ayutthaya Gold Treasure Exhibition is considered the country’s finest and largest showcase of sacred gold artefacts, making it a must-visit for tourists to the province.

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the country’s finest and largest showcase of sacred gold artefacts, making it a must-visit for tourists to the province.

Another sacred attraction on Ayutthaya’s history trail is Wat Choeng Tha, situated beside the Lop Buri River. This temple houses exquisite wooden Thammat (preaching pulpits) that survived the Burmese invasions of the 18th century. Wat Choeng Tha is thought to have been built over 700 years ago during the reign of King U-thong (King Ramathibodi I (reigned 1351-1369), though no records of its founding exist.

According to legend, the temple was built by a wealthy man as a

Clockwise from Top Left Ancient wooden pulpits at Wat Choeng Tha ­— a single seater and a longer one for several monks Buddha statue in a royal uniform Inside the sermon hall of Wat Choeng Tha

gesture of forgiveness after his daughter eloped to marry the man she loved. His daughter, however, never returned so he decided to transform the newlyweds’ house into Wat Khoi Tha – the Temple of Waiting.

During the reign of King Rama IV (1851-1868), the name was changed to Wat Choeng Tha in reference to the Ayutthaya royalbarge boatyard that stood next to the temple.

Wat Choeng Tha houses two ancient wooden preaching pulpits – a single-seater and a longer one for several monks. The longer pulpit is gilded with gold and topped with a spired roof in the distinctive curved design of the late Ayutthaya era. The two pulpits grace the sermon hall, where murals illustrate the 10 incarnations of

Mural paintings inside the sermon hall depict the story of the Lord Buddha, the tenets, and the way of life of the people in old Siam

the Buddha and the way of life in old Siam.

Wat Na Phra Meru is also a must-visit destination, being another rare temple that escaped destruction during the 18th-century Burmese-Siamese wars. Burmese King Alaungpaya deployed his artillery at the temple to attack the Ayutthaya royal palace on the opposite riverbank. But when his cannons misfired, fatally injuring the king, the Burmese forces suddenly withdrew from their siege of Ayutthaya.

The original architecture of the Ayutthaya era was thus preserved at

Detailed Chinese altar paintings were popular during the reign of King Rama IV Wooden gable at the sermon hall, Wat Choeng Tha, carved in the images of Thep Phanom among Kanok flames

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Wat Na Phra Meru. The remarkable centrepiece is the Ubosot (ordination hall), stretching 50 metres by 16 metres and crowned by an elegant three-tiered gable roof.

Inside is enshrined the bejewelledgold Phra Buddha Nimitr Vichit Maramoli Sisanpeth. Spanning 4.4 metres wide and 6 metres high, this is one of the largest seated Buddha images in Thailand.

The ideal spot to end a one-day trip to Ayutthaya is at Baan Thai Ayutthaya Khlong Sra Bua, where fine traditional Thai cuisine is served beneath the shade of trees.

Husband-and-wife team Chakrit and Supamas Sitisara took 20 years to transform an overgrown plot in Khlong Sra Bua district into the restaurant paradise that greets diners today. Traditional Thai houses and salas are dotted around

Opposite Page Phra Buddha Nimitr Vichit Maramoli Sisanpeth, the centrepiece in Wat Na Phra Meru’s ordination hall Top Right The interior of Baan Thai Ayutthaya Khlong Sra Bua Middle from Left A set of Thai dessert Grilled river prawns served with neem and sweet fish sauce Elaborate table setting at Baan Thai Ayutthaya Khlong Sra Bua Left Pomelo salad, Thai appetizer

a large lotus pond dappled by the shade of tropical trees. The lush garden also provides the vegetables for the dishes served here.

Baan Thai Ayutthaya Khlong Sra Bua offers a chef’s table in a lavish private setting. The 6 to 9 course menus cost from 2,300 baht to 2,900 baht per person. Among the meticulously prepared dishes are Yum Som-O (pomelo salad), Thot Mun Pla Krai (fried fish cakes), Hor Mok Bai Yor (spicy minced fish steamed in banana leaf) and Gung Mae Nam Phao Nam Pla Waan (grilled river prawns served with sweet fish sauce).

The delicious and beautifully presented food matches the stunning tranquillity of this garden setting. The traditional riverside houses of Baan Thai Ayutthaya Khlong Sra Bua were chosen as a location for the hit period TV drama “Bupphesanniwat” (Love Destiny).

Savouring the slower pace of life and fantastic food here is the perfect end to any day trip.

The Ayutthaya Gold Treasure Exhibition Building is in the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya district. Open daily from 9am to 4pm (except Mondays).

Admission is 30 baht for Thais and 150 baht for foreigners.

Visit facebook.com/ chaosamphraya or call +66 (0) 35 241587.

Wat Choeng Tha is open daily from 7am5pm. Call +66 (0) 35 252 073.

Wat Na Phra Meru is open weekdays, from 8am to 5pm, and weekends until 5.30pm. Call +66 (0) 80 668 1070.

Reservation is required at Baan Thai Ayutthaya Khlong Sra Bua. Call +66 (0) 94 449 1635.

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OLD GOLD

ชายสไบที่​่�พลิ้​้�วไหวไปตามลมของเหล่​่า นั​ักท่​่องเที่​่�ยวที่​่�เดิ​ินชมโบราณสถานใน อุ​ุทยานประวั​ัติ​ิศาสตร์​์อยุ​ุธยา ชวนให้​้เรา อดคิ​ิดขึ้​้�นมาไม่​่ได้​้ว่​่า หากย้​้อนเวลาไปยั​ัง ยุ​ุคทองของอยุ​ุธยาภาพที่​่�เห็​็นตรงหน้​้า จะงดงามตระการตาเพี​ียงใด พิ​ิพิ​ิธภั​ัณฑสถานแห่​่งชาติ​ิเจ้​้าสาม พระยา เป็​็นจุ​ุดเริ่​่�มต้​้นที่​่�ดี​ีสำำ�หรั​ับทั​ัวร์​์ 1 วั​ัน ที่​่�เราจะได้​้สั​ัมผั​ัสกั​ับความหมายของคำำ�ว่​่า “เมื​ืองทองกรุ​ุงศรี​ีอยุ​ุธยา” นั​ักเดิ​ินทาง ชาวยุ​ุโรปที่​่�เดิ​ินทางเข้​้ามาค้​้าขายในอยุ​ุธยา เขี​ียนบั​ันทึ​ึกไว้​้ว่​่าอยุ​ุธยาเป็​็นตลาดค้​้าขาย ทองคำำ� มี​ีพ่​่อค้​้านำำ�ทองคำำ�เข้​้ามาจาก เปอร์​์เซี​ีย สุ​ุมาตรา ชวา มลายู​ู และจี​ีน เข้​้ามายั​ังพระนคร สอดคล้​้องกั​ับข้​้อความในจดหมายเหตุ​ุ ของลาลู​ูแบร์​์ (หั​ัวหน้​้าคณะทู​ูตจากฝรั่​่�งเศส ที่​่�เดิ​ินทางเข้​้ามาในรั​ัชสมั​ัยของสมเด็​็จพระ นารายณ์​์มหาราช) บรรยายถึ​ึงยอด ปราสาท ราชมณเฑี​ียร ช่​่อฟ้​้า ใบระกา วั​ัดวาอารามในอยุ​ุธยาว่​่าล้​้วนประดั​ับไป ด้​้วยทองคำำ�ล้ำำ��ค่​่า ทั้​้�งยั​ังกล่​่าวถึ​ึงช่​่างทองชาวสยามว่​่า มี​ีฝี​ีมื​ือในนำำ�ทองคำำ�มาตี​ีแผ่​่เป็​็นแผ่​่นทอง เมื่​่�อพระเจ้​้ากรุ​ุงสยามมี​ีพระราชสาส์​์นไปยั​ัง กษั​ัตริ​ิย์​์ต่​่างเมื​ือง โปรดให้​้จารึ​ึกข้​้อความ ลงในพระสุ​ุพรรณบั​ัฏ หรื​ือ แผ่​่นทองที่​่�รี​ีด จนบางเหมื​ือนกระดาษ ในงานเลี้​้�ยงเพื่​่�อ พระราชทานแก่​่คณะทู​ูตฝรั่​่�งเศส ผลไม้​้ ต่​่างๆ ล้​้วนจั​ัดวางอยู่​่�ในจานทองคำำ� สะท้​้อน ให้​้เห็​็นว่​่าทองคำำ�ของพระเจ้​้าแผ่​่นดิ​ินสมั​ัย อยุ​ุธยานั้​้�นมี​ีจำำ�นวนมากมาย นิ​ิทรรศการเครื่​่�องทองอยุ​ุธยา ที่​่�จั​ัด แสดงในอาคารหลั​ังใหม่​่ภายในพิ​ิพิ​ิธภั​ัณฑ์​์

ตามเข็​็มนาฬิ​ิกา จากขวาบน ชิ้​้�นส่​่วนฉั​ัตรทองคำำ� เป็​็นเครื่​่�องแสดง พระอิ​ิสริ​ิยยศของกษั​ัตริ​ิย์​์ พระแสงขรรค์​์ชั​ัยศรี​ี ศิ​ิลปะอยุ​ุธยาตอนต้​้น ธรรมาสน์​์ ไม้​้แกะสลั​ัก ปิ​ิดทอง ศิ​ิลปะอยุ​ุธยาที่​่� น่​่าชมภายในศาลา การเปรี​ียญ วั​ัดเชิ​ิงท่​่า ซ้​้ายล่​่าง รถตุ๊​๊�กตุ๊​๊�กหั​ัวกบ พาหนะ รั​ับจ้​้างที่​่�เป็​็นเอกลั​ักษณ์​์ ของจั​ังหวั​ัดอยุ​ุธยา

เป็​็นหลั​ักฐานชั้​้�นดี​ีที่​่�ช่​่วยสนั​ับสนุ​ุนบั​ันทึ​ึก ทางประวั​ัติ​ิศาสตร์​์ของชาวต่​่างชาติ​ิ ทั้​้�งใน เรื่​่�องความมั่​่�งคั่​่�งและฝี​ีมื​ือช่​่างของอยุ​ุธยา ภาพแผ่​่นทองที่​่�หุ้​้�มพระปรางค์​์จำำ�ลองที่​่� ค้​้นพบในกรุ​ุวั​ัดราชบู​ูรณะ เป็​็นตั​ัวอย่​่างที่​่� เด่​่นชั​ัด ร่​่วมด้​้วยแผ่​่นทองรี​ีดบางที่​่�นำำ�ไป บุ​ุ ดุ​ุน สลั​ักลายเป็​็นรู​ูปพระพุ​ุทธรู​ูป ดอกไม้​้ และสั​ัตว์​์ ในป่​่าหิ​ิมพานต์​์จำำ�นวนหลายร้​้อย รายการ ล้​้วนเป็​็นหลั​ักฐานงานฝี​ีมื​ือ อั​ันสุ​ุดยอดของช่​่างอยุ​ุธยา อาคารเครื่​่�องทองอยุ​ุธยา จั​ัดแสดง เครื่​่�องทองที่​่�ขุ​ุดพบจากกรุ​ุวั​ัดราชบู​ูรณะ วั​ัดมหาธาตุ​ุ วั​ัดพระราม วั​ัดพระศรี​ีสรร เพชญ์​์ และเจดี​ีย์​์ศรี​ีสุ​ุริ​ิโยทั​ัย รวม 2,244 รายการ นำำ�เสนอเรื่​่�องราวแบ่​่งออกเป็​็น 3 ส่​่วน ได้​้แก่​่ เครื่​่�องทองจากวั​ัดราชบู​ูรณะ ประเภทเครื่​่�องราชกกุ​ุธภั​ัณฑ์​์ เครื่​่�องสู​ูง เครื่​่�องราชู​ูปโภคและ เครื่​่�องถนิ​ิมพิ​ิมพาภรณ์​์ เครื่​่�องทองจากวั​ัดราชบู​ูรณะ ประเภทเครื่​่�องพุ​ุทธบู​ูชา เครื่​่�องอุ​ุทิ​ิศ และพระบรมสารี​ีริ​ิกธาตุ​ุ รวมถึ​ึง กรุ​ุจำำ�ลองวั​ัดราชบู​ูรณะ คติ​ิการบรรจุ​ุพระบรมสารี​ีริ​ิกธาตุ​ุ และพระบรมสารี​ีริ​ิกธาตุ​ุที่​่�พบใน โบราณสถานของอยุ​ุธยา 48

อาคารเครื่​่�องทองอยุ​ุธยา พิ​ิพิธิ ภั​ัณฑสถาน แห่​่งชาติ​ิเจ้​้าสามพระยาในปั​ัจจุ​ุบันั เป็​็นสถาน ที่​่�จั​ัดแสดงทองคำำ�ที่​่�ใหญ่​่ที่​่�สุ​ุดและดี​ีที่​่�สุ​ุด ของประเทศไทย จุ​ุดหมายที่​่�สอง ชวนคุ​ุณลั​ัดเลาะข้​้าม เกาะเมื​ืองไปยั​ัง วั​ัดเชิ​ิงท่​่า ริ​ิมแม่​่น้ำำ��ลพบุ​ุรี​ี เพื่​่�อไปชมธรรมาสน์​์ ศิ​ิลปะอยุ​ุธยาล้ำำ��ค่​่าที่​่� รอดพ้​้นจากการเผาทำำ�ลายในคราวเสี​ีย กรุ​ุงครั้​้�งที่​่� 2 วั​ัดเชิ​ิงท่​่า เป็​็นวั​ัดเก่​่าแก่​่สั​ันนิ​ิษฐานว่​่า สร้​้างขึ้​้�นในรั​ัชสมั​ัย สมเด็​็จพระรามาธิ​ิบดี​ี ที่​่� 1 (พระเจ้​้าอู่​่�ทอง ครองราชย์​์ พ.ศ.

1893-1912) วั​ัดนี้​้�ไม่​่ปรากฏชื่​่�อผู้​้�สร้​้าง แต่​่มี​ีเรื่​่�องเล่​่าขานกั​ันถึ​ึงเศรษฐี​ีคนหนึ่​่�งที่​่� สร้​้างเรื​ือนหอไว้​้รอลู​ูก สาวที่​่�หนี​ีไปกั​ับ ชายหนุ่​่�ม โดยหวั​ังว่​่าถ้​้าลู​ูกสาวกลั​ับมา จะยกโทษให้​้ รอแล้​้วรอเล่​่าลู​ูกสาวไม่​่ยอม กลั​ับมาสั​ักที​ี เลยยกเรื​ือนหอถวายวั​ัดที่​่� ตั​ัวเองสร้​้างขึ้​้�น จึ​ึงเป็​็นที่​่�มาของชื่​่�อวั​ัด คอยท่​่า ต่​่อมาเปลี่​่�ยนเป็​็นเชิ​ิงท่​่าในสมั​ัย พระบาทสมเด็​็จพระจอมเกล้​้าเจ้​้าอยู่​่�หั​ัว รั​ัชกาลที่​่� 4 เนื่​่�องจากเคยเป็​็นที่​่�ตั้​้�งของ อู่​่�เรื​ือพระราชพิ​ิธี​ีในสมั​ัยอยุ​ุธยามาก่​่อน สำำ�หรั​ับธรรมาสน์​์ที่วั่� ดั เชิ​ิงท่​่า มี​ีด้​้วยกั​ัน 2 หลั​ัง ได้​้แก่​่ ธรรมาสน์​์สำำ�หรั​ับพระสงฆ์​์นั่​่�ง หนึ่​่�งรู​ูป กั​ับธรรมาสน์​์ยาวที่​่�พระสงฆ์​์ขึ้​้�นนั่​่�ง ได้​้พร้​้อมกั​ันหลายรู​ูป ธรรมาสน์​์ยาวหลั​ังนี้​้�

ได้​้รั​ับการกล่​่าวชื่​่�นชมจาก น. ณ ปากน้ำำ�� ศิ​ิลปิ​ินแห่​่งชาติ​ิ สาขาทั​ัศนศิ​ิลป์​์ ว่​่า “มี​ีฝี​ีมื​ือ จำำ�หลั​ักไม้​้ดี​ีเยี่​่�ยม แบบบราลี​ีที่​่�เป็​็นยอด แหลมๆ บนหลั​ังคา ไม่​่เคยเห็​็นที่​่�ไหนมาก่​่อน” สร้​้างขึ้​้�นจากไม้​้แกะสลั​ักปิ​ิดทอง มี​ีหลั​ังคา และฐานเป็​็นเส้​้นอ่​่อนโค้​้งตามรู​ูปแบบศิ​ิลปะ อยุ​ุ ธ ยาตอนปลาย เช่​่นเดี​ียวกั​ับโบสถ์​์ วิ​ิหารธรรมาสน์​์ จั​ัดแสดงอยู่​่�ภายในศาลา การเปรี​ียญที่​่�สร้​้างขึ้​้�นในสมั​ัยรั​ัชกาลที่​่� 4 เป็​็ น อาคารก่​่ อ อิ​ิฐถื​ื อ ปู​ูนแบบตะวั​ันตก ภายในมี​ีภาพจิ​ิตรกรรมเล่​่า เรื่​่�อ งพุ​ุทธ ประวั​ัติ​ิ ทศชาติ​ิ และวิ​ิถี​ีชี​ีวิ​ิตของผู้​้�คนในอดี​ีต บานประตู​ูหน้​้าต่​่างวาดภาพเครื่​่�องโต๊​๊ะบู​ูชา แบบจี​ีน ผลงานของครู​ูแข และเจ้​้าอาวาส พระอาจารย์​์อาภรณ์​์ธรรม จากธรรมาสน์​์ที่​่�มี​ีหลั​ังคาและเส้​้นโค้​้ง ตามรู​ูปแบบสถาปั​ัตยกรรมอยุ​ุธยาแล้​้ว เราไปขยายภาพพระอุ​ุโบสถที่​่�ฉายให้​้เห็​็น ภาพชั​ัดของสถาปั​ัตยกรรมกั​ันที่​่�วั​ัดหน้​้า พระเมรุ​ุที่​่�อยู่​่�ใกล้​้กั​ัน วั​ัดหน้​้าพระเมรุ​ุ เดิ​ิมชื่​่�อ วั​ัดพระเมรุ​ุ ชิ​ิการาม เป็​็นสถานที่​่�สำำ�หรั​ับสร้​้างพระเมรุ​ุ ถวายพระเพลิ​ิงพระบรมศพในช่​่วงอยุ​ุธยา ตอนต้​้ น เป็​็ นวั​ัด เดี​ียวในอยุ​ุธยาที่​่� ไ ม่​่ถู​ูก ข้​้าศึ​ึกเผาทำำ�ลายในช่​่วงเสี​ียกรุ​ุง เนื่​่�องจาก พระเจ้​้าอลองพญายกปื​ืนใหญ่​่มาตั้​้�งไว้​้ที่​่�นี่​่�

เพื่​่�อหวั​ังจากยิ​ิงเข้​้าไปยั​ังพระบรมมหาราช วั​ัง ที่​่�อ ยู่​่�คนละฝั่​่�งแม่​่น้ำำ��ลพบุ​ุรี​ีสายเก่​่า แต่​่ปรากฏว่​่าปากกระบอกปื​ืนแตกขณะ ทรงจุ​ุดลู​ูกปื​ืน เกิ​ิดสะเก็​็ดระเบิ​ิดลุ​ุกเป็​็นไฟ ทำำ�ให้​้พระเจ้​้าอลองพญาบาดเจ็​็บสาหั​ัส จึ​ึงยกทั​ัพกลั​ับในวั​ันรุ่​่�งขึ้​้�นและสิ้​้�นพระชนม์​์ ขณะทั​ัพเคลื่​่�อนไปไม่​่พ้​้นเขตเมื​ืองตาก อุ​ุโบสถวั​ัดหน้​้าพระเมรุ​ุได้​้รั​ับการบู​ูรณ ปฏิ​ิสั​ังขรณ์​์ ในสมั​ัยรั​ัชกาลที่​่� 3 และต่​่อเนื่​่�อง มาในสมั​ั ย ปั​ั จ จุ​ุ บั​ั น โดยยั​ั ง ยึ​ึ ดรู​ู ป แบบ สถาปั​ัตยกรรมแบบอยุ​ุธยาเอาไว้​้ พระ อุ​ุโบสถมี​ีขนาดยาว 50 เมตร กว้​้าง 16 เมตร มี​ีหลั​ังคาเป็​็นทรงจั่​่�วซ้​้อนกั​ัน 3 ชั้​้�น หลั​ังคามุ​ุงกระเบื้​้�อง ภายในประดิ​ิษฐาน พระพุ​ุทธนิ​ิมิ​ิต วิ​ิชิ​ิตมารโมลี​ีศรี​ีสรรเพชญ์​์ พระพุ​ุทธรู​ูป ทรงเครื่​่�องแบบกษั​ัตริ​ิย์​์หล่​่อด้​้วยสำำ�ริ​ิดสู​ูง 6 เมตร หน้​้าตั​ัก 4.40 เมตร ที่​่มี​ีค � วามงดงาม และมี​ีขนาดใหญ่​่ที่​่�สุ​ุดเท่​่าที่​่�พบในปั​ัจจุ​ุบั​ัน ปิ​ิดท้​้ายทั​ัวร์​์วั​ันเดี​ียวด้​้วยสำำ�รั​ับอาหาร ไทยท่​่ามกลางบรรยากาศอั​ันสงบงามที่​่� บ้​้านไทยอยุ​ุธยาคลองสระบั​ัว กลุ่​่�มเรื​ือนไทย ที่​่�ซ่​่อนตั​ัวอยู่​่�ในร่​่มเงาของต้​้นไม้​้ ใหญ่​่ใน ตำำ�บลคลองสระบั​ัว แหล่​่งผลิ​ิตภาชนะ ดิ​ินเผา กระเบื้​้�องมุ​ุงหลั​ังคาและอิ​ิฐของ อยุ​ุธยาที่​่�สื​ืบเนื่​่�องมาจนถึ​ึงวั​ันนี้​้�

ตามเข็​็มนาฬิ​ิกาจาก ขวาซ้​้าย กุ้​้�งแม่​่น้ำำ��เผาสะเดา น้ำำ��ปลาหวาน เมนู​ูไฮไลต์​์ ของบ้​้านไทยอยุ​ุธยา คลองสระบั​ัว บรรยากาศภายใน บ้​้านไทยอยุ​ุธยา คลองสระบั​ัวที่​่�ชวนเรา ย้​้อนรำำ�ลึ​ึกถึ​ึงวั​ันวาน ล่​่างจากซ้​้าย นั่​่�งเรื​ือภายในคลอง บ้​้านไทยคลองสระบั​ัว เป็​็นอี​ีกหนึ่​่�งกิ​ิจกรรม ที่​่�ประทั​ับใจ อยุ​ุธยาได้​้ชื่​่�อว่​่า เป็​็นเมื​ืองขนมหวาน ถ้​้าไปแล้​้วไม่​่ได้​้ รั​ับประทานก็​็ดู​ูเหมื​ือนจะ ขาดอะไรไปสั​ักอย่​่าง

คุ​ุณชาคริ​ิตและคุ​ุณศุ​ุภมาส ศี​ีติ​ิสาร เจ้​้าของบ้​้านร่​่วมกั​ันพลิ​ิกพื้​้�นที่​่�รกร้​้างใน ตำำ�บลคลองสระบั​ัวเมื่​่�อ 20 ปี​ีก่​่อน โดย ทยอยปลู​ูกเรื​ือนไทยไปพร้​้อมกั​ับการ ขุ​ุดสระขนาดใหญ่​่ ปลู​ูกต้​้นไม้​้ ใหญ่​่น้​้อย รวมไปถึ​ึงพื​ืชผั​ักสวนครั​ัวที่​่�นำำ�มาใช้​้เป็​็น วั​ัตถุ​ุดิ​ิบในสำำ�รั​ับอาหาร บ้​้านไทยอยุ​ุธยาคลองสระบั​ัว ให้​้ บริ​ิการในรู​ูปแบบเชฟเทเบิ้​้�ลเน้​้นความเป็​็น ส่​่วนตั​ัว เมนู​ูอาหารมี​ีให้​้เลื​ือกตั้​้�งแต่​่ 6-9 คอร์​์ส (ราคา 2,300 – 2,900 บาทต่​่อ คน อาทิ​ิเช่​่น ยำำ�ส้​้มโอ สั​ันคอหมู​ูย่​่างรม ควั​ันมะพร้​้าว ทอดมั​ันปลากราย ห่​่อหมก ใบยอ แกงเขี​ียวหวานลู​ูกชิ้​้�นปลากราย มั​ัสมั่​่�นเนื้​้�อน่​่องลาย แกงส้​้มกุ้​้�งก้​้านบอน กุ้​้�งแม่​่น้ำำ��เผาน้ำำ��ปลาหวาน และเผื​ือกหิ​ิมะ เป็​็นต้​้น สำำ�รั​ับ อาหารตลอดจนสถานที่​่�ใน บ้​้านไทยอยุ​ุธยา ตกแต่​่งอย่​่างประณี​ีต พิ​ิถี​ีพิ​ิถั​ัน การได้​้เดิ​ินเที่​่�ยวชมเรื​ือนไทย ริ​ิมน้ำำ��ที่​่�เคยเป็​็นฉากในละครดั​ังเรื่​่�อง บุ​ุพเพสั​ันนิ​ิวาส ชมเรื​ือนไม้​้ ไผ่​่แบบชาวบ้​้าน เดิ​ินฟั​ังเสี​ียงกอไผ่​่ขนาดใหญ่​่เสี​ียดสี​ีกั​ัน ยามลมพั​ัด เป็​็นช่​่วงเวลาเติ​ิมอาหารใจ ที่​่วิ​ิ� เศษ เช่​่นเดี​ียวกั​ับรสชาติ​ิของอาหารมื้​้�อค่ำำ�� ท่​่ามกลางบรรยากาศอั​ันน่​่าประทั​ับใจ

นั​ับเป็​็น 1 วั​ันอั​ัศจรรย์​์ ในอยุ​ุธยาที่​่�อิ่​่�มเอมใจ พิ​ิพิ​ิธภั​ัณฑสถานแห่​่งชาติ​ิเจ้​้าสามพระยา

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LOGGING HISTORY

TEAK TRAILS Words & Photos: Ron Emmons

How a timber boom helped shape the Kingdom of Siam

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LOGGING HISTORY

Beginning of the Teak Boom

In the mid-19th century, the Kingdom of Siam was virtually unknown to the outside world, but that started to change in 1855 when King Mongkut of Siam and Sir John Bowring, representing the British government, signed what became known as the Bowring Treaty. This treaty guaranteed Siam its sovereignty in return for drastically reduced taxes on Siamese products such as teak and ivory, which led to an increase in international trade.

At the time, the region around Chiang Mai, formerly known as Lanna, was still an independent kingdom, though its ruler or chao paid triannual tribute to the King of Siam. This in itself was an arduous undertaking, involving at least a month on a boat going downstream to Bangkok bearing gifts and then an even longer journey back upstream to the north.

In those days, the hills around Chiang Mai bristled with teak,

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Top King Mongkut (left) and King Chulalongkorn Below Left An illustration of Sir John Bowring Below Right Elephants moving huge teak logs

which was in great demand for building ships by colonial powers such as Britain and France, both eager to expand their empires.

In 1882, a shipment of teak from Bangkok to Liverpool was auctioned for twice the expected price, and the teak boom took off.

Establishments like the Borneo Company and Bombay Burmah Trading Company opened offices in Bangkok and hired agents to control their operations in the northern hills. The agents negotiated concessions with the local ruler to log the forests

In those days, the hills around Chiang Mai bristled with teak, which was in great demand for building ships by colonial powers.

Photo: family of Frank Frere

Photo: Oliver Backhouse

and sent gangs of loggers and elephants into the jungle to fell the trees.

Elephants and Teak Logging Without elephants, teak logging would have been unthinkable.

In those days before machines, only elephants were capable of hauling logs weighing several tonnes from where the tree was felled to the riverbank, ready to be sent downstream in a teak raft.

There were many steps in teak logging, and the whole process, from girdling trees to selling planks of teakwood at the sawmills in Bangkok could take five years or more. Girdling involved removing a strip of bark and sapwood from the circumference of the tree, which kills it within a few years. Felling was a particularly precarious process; if the tree fell the wrong way, it could split the trunk or crush the loggers, so wedges were shoved into axe cuts to make the tree lean the right way.

From Top A raft of teak logs covers the river The first bridge over the Ping River was made of teak by Marion Cheek and opened in 1890

Photo: Oliver Backhouse

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LOGGING HISTORY

Clockwise from Top A traditional northern-style teak house in Phrae Khum Chao Burirat: bedroom and adjoining shrine Khum Chao Burirat: a relaxing corner Khum Chao Burirat is a good example of Lanna Colonial architecture A mural depicting an elephant being venerated at Wat Phra That Sunthon Mongkhon Kiri in Phrae’s Den Chai district

The least favoured job for teak loggers, however, was ounging, which involved taking a group of elephants to the heart of a logjam on a river, getting them to prise out the jammed logs and hope they would not all be swept away in the ensuing rush of water.

Years of drought could also be disastrous, since the rivers would not rise enough to float the logs downstream, and the teak agents were left cursing their bad luck.

Nevertheless, when conditions were good, teak trading could be a very lucrative business, and the teak tycoons built themselves lavish homes run by retinues of servants.

Siam Spreads North

In the 1880s, the profitable teak trade in Chiang Mai began to attract the interest of Britain and France as well as Siam. When Britain annexed Upper Burma and France pushed west from Vietnam to Laos, it seemed that either nation might snatch this remote land, but the stealth of the Siamese beat them to it with a

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series of laws that gradually eroded the powers of the local ruler. The deal was virtually sealed by an act of regal diplomacy. When King Chulalongkorn of Siam heard that Queen Victoria of Britain wanted to adopt Dara Rasamee, daughter of Chiang Mai’s ruler Chao Inthawichayanon, he stepped in and took the 13-year-old princess as a consort to Bangkok. By

the end of the 19th century, Chiang Mai and the northern provinces were incorporated into the Kingdom of Siam.

Just over a century later, Chiang Mai is one of the most popular destinations for domestic tourists, partly because its language, culture and cuisine set it apart from mainstream Thai culture. So let’s follow the teak trail to landmarks that carry echoes of the teak boom era.

Following the Teak Trail

A good place to start is right in the

heart of Chiang Mai’s old walled city at a building formerly known as the Khum Chao Burirat, which was built for a high-ranking official in 1889. These days it is home to the Lanna Architecture Centre and is a classic example of a style known as Lanna Colonial, which combines features of Western and Eastern design. The ground floor of bricks and mortar with its shady colonnade is typical of Western colonial style while the upper floor of teak with its breezy veranda is ideal for the humid Thai climate.

Chao Inthawichayanon, ruler of Chiang Mai in the late 19th century Teak barge carrying sightseers passes under the Jansom Memorial Bridge 137 Pillars: the centrepiece is the former Borneo Company office 137 Pillars: Tricycles on hand to take guests around 137 Pillars: the lush interior of the main house Avenue of teak trees near Chiang Mai

Photos: 137 Pillars

In the 1880s, the profitable teak trade in Chiang Mai began to attract the interest of Britain and France as well as Siam.

Clockwise from Top Left Chao Dara Rasamee

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KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

Sensory Adventures

Photo: teamLab

After mesmerising fans in cities like New York, London, Paris, Singapore, Beijing and Melbourne, teamLab’s one-of-a-kind art collective has popped up in Hong Kong and will stay there until early next year. “Future Park”, a life-sized pop-up amusement park offering a multisensory adventure for visitors of all ages, will see them flexing their creativity in an imaginative high-tech space.

BANGKOK 60 / SAMUI 62 / PHUKET, KRABI 66 / CHIANG MAI, PATTAYA, TRAT 69 / HONG KONG 70 / SINGAPORE 71 / PHNOM PENH, SIEM REAP 72 / LUANG PRABANG 73

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HAPPENINGS THAILAND

SPOTLIGHT

Fat Reputation for Sushi

MAKE LIKE A MOUNTAIN GOAT

Seeking a new way to get fit and flexible? The Stonegoat Climbing Gym could just be the answer, providing a serious workout for muscles as well as a challenge for the mind. The brainchild of two avid climbers, Stonegoat is a bespoke bouldering gym that offers diverse routes catering to climbers of all ages and experience. From beginners to experts, everyone feels welcome here thanks to the open and inclusive setting. The gym hosts six bouldering walls, each named after popular climbing disciplines and highlighted by the 33-metre-long Competition Wall. Other facilities include a café that serves speciality coffee and food, a MoonBoard overhang wall for climbers who want to train harder, and a fitness training zone. Open Monday to Wednesday from 11am-10pm, Saturday from 10am-10pm, and Sunday from 10am-9pm, BTS Phra Khanong Exit 3, 36/3 Sukhumvit 69, www.stonegoatclimb.com

Fatboy Izakaya has built an oversize reputation for fun vibes and seriously good sushi. Located on the spot once occupied by Spanish restaurant Wine Bibber Sangria in Sukhumvit 63, what first strikes passersby is the Gameboy-inspired frontage in playful shades of white, red, and warm wood. Step inside and you find the fun atmosphere comes with a serious attitude towards food and drinks. Fatboy Izakaya doesn’t fail to impress even the most discerning Japanese foodies with classic favourites given modern twists in Okonomiyaki Poutine Fries, and Abalone & Clam Maze Gohan. The food tastes even better when washed down with the right drink, and Fatboy Izakaya offers a wide choice ranging from signature cocktails to highballs to Japanese beers.

Open daily 11am-3pm, 5pm-midnight, Ekamai 2, Sukhumvit 63, www.instagram.com/ fatboyizakaya SWEET AND COOL

Let’s beat the heat with the sweet and green Lod Chong Singapore! If you have a chance to stroll around Yaowarat or Bangkok Chinatown, it is worth dropping

by Singapore Phochana, to slurp this famous ice-cold dessert to cool you down.

The famous dessert shop has been serving Lod Chong Singapore to passersby and locals alike for more than seven decades. The green noodle-like dessert, made of tapioca starch, mixed with fresh coconut milk, syrup, and tiny pieces of fragrant jackfruit pulps topped with finely

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flaked shaved ice is served in a tiny cup with a spoon at 30 baht. To taste it to the fullest, stir everything together, and the Lod Chong Singapore is ready for you to scoop into your mouth. It’s chewy, sweet, cool, and refreshing right away.

Singapore Phochana will stay at the same place until December and will then relocate nearby. Sam Yaek Mor Mee, opposite UOB Bank Yaowarat, +66 (0) 2221 5794, opens 10.30am-9.30pm; closed on Thursdays, www.facebook.com/ lodchongsg

Photos: Chakkaphong Sukkasame

BANGKOK

JIM THOMPSON’S ISAAN TWIST

Convinced that the famous food culture of Thailand’s Northeast has untapped potential, Larbsiab experiments by seasoning different barbecued meats with Larb mix. The succulent and delicious results at this Isaan-inspired izakaya come served with breathtaking sunset views thanks to its location atop the Jim Thompson Art Centre. Unwind after work with an iced glass of craft beer and take your pick from a selection of sizzling skewers – beef onglet, duck thighs, pork intestine, Isaan sausage, or vegetarian options. The ambience is unpretentious, setting the stage for a refreshing and relaxing evening with friends or colleagues before it’s back to work tomorrow. Open Wednesday to Sunday, 5-11pm, 10/1 Jim Thomson Art Centre (rooftop), Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road, www.instagram.com/ isan_spicy_bbq

MONSTROUSLY GOOD FUSION

Kaiju, named after the films featuring giant dinosaur-like creatures that attack cities, is a towering presence on Bangkok’s izakaya scene. This monster-themed restaurant on Sukhumvit 49 offers tasty fusion food that combines bold Thai flavours with Japanese finesse, complemented by an impressive drinks list spanning sake, umeshu, brandy, whisky, highball, gin and beers. After first stomping into Kuala Lumpur in 2016, Kaiju made its way to Bangkok and got busy conquering Thai fans of Japanese cuisine and pop culture. According to restaurant legend, Kaiju arrived in Thailand to be met by Bangkok’s protector, the three-headed elephant Chang Erawan. The two mighty creatures made friends, forging a culinary partnership to delight Bangkokians’ bellies. The flashy and fun decor is highlighted by a truly monstrous ceiling, making this the perfect place for a little light relief and relaxation after a heavy day at work. Open Wednesday to Monday, 4.30pm- 2am, PIMAN 49, Sukhumvit 49, +66 (0) 97 479 6263, www.instagram.com/kaiju_thailand

NYC TO BKK

New York’s favourite burger chain Shake Shack has finally landed in the City of Angels, injecting a new fusion of American and Thai flavours. Shake Shack began life as a hotdog cart in artist Navin Rawanchaikul’s “I Heart Taxi” exhibition in New York. Unmissable treats include the Pandan Sticky Rice Shake – a delicious blend of vanilla ice cream, palm sugar and rice milk, topped with pandan jelly and sweet sticky rice. Craft beer and wine are also served. Open daily from 11am to 10pm. Zone 1, CentralWorld, www.shakeshack.co.th

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HAPPENINGS THAILAND

SPOTLIGHT

Oasis of Authentic Italian Food

Prego Samui is an island institution for authentic Italian fare, headed

by Chef Marco Boscaini. The Thailand-loving Italian chef first arrived in 1994 for a three-month job teaching Italian culinary techniques but ended up staying 20 years – and counting.

Head Chef Giampiero Quartararo, aka Piero, has since taken charge of the kitchen as Chef Marco’s role stretched to Prego’s new sister branches, Prego Bangkok and Prego Pattaya.

We recommend starting your meal with a bold choice of rainbow-coloured Antipasto Misto, which comes with a medley of Italian cold cuts, cheeses and vegetables. For something slightly

RETREAT TO WELLNESS

Gym-going regulars of ABSOLUTE YOU – Thailand’s boutique fitness and lifestyle brand – should check out Absolute Sanctuary when in Samui. The fitness/wellness resort prides itself in helping guests to reconnect with the body, mind and soul via bespoke diet and workout programmes. The resort offers a range of retreat packages for detox, weight management, anti-stress, women’s holistic health and men’s vitality.

Guests can choose from four room types: Sanctuary Suite, Sanctuary Deluxe Seaview, Sanctuary Deluxe, and Sanctuary Superior. Visitors can also opt for the wellness day-pass to enjoy the premium fitness facilities. +66 (0) 77 601 190, www.absolutesanctuary.com

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heavier, tuck into our favourites, Pizza Formaggi and Diavola. Pasta lovers will find plenty to adore in the Spaghetti Vongole and Chef Prego’s signature Pappardelle Allo Zafferano, Ragu Di Agnello and Funghi Porcini (yellow saffrontinged pappardelle served under a blanket of rich roasted lamb ragú sauce). +66 (0) 99 028 9378, www.prego-samui.com

SAMUI

SPOTLIGHT

Pirates of Koh Samui Channel your inner Captain Jack Sparrow as you board this vintage Myanmar Junk Boat crafted entirely from teak. The Chantara Pirate Junk Boat takes you on a mini sea voyage to explore islands across the Gulf of Thailand including Koh Phangan, Koh Tao and islets in the Mu Ko Ang Thong National Marine Park. Guests can also request private cruises for parties, weddings, and other special occasions.

We recommend the full-day Koh Phangan sunset tour (11am to 7pm).

You’ll get to explore secluded beaches around Koh Phangan, snorkel into the underwater world, and tuck into a delectable Thai lunch buffet. More treasure awaits with a stunning golden sunset on the way back to Koh Samui. +66 (0) 87 064 3126, junkchantara.com

PADDLE INTO PARADISE – AT NIGHT

Paddleboarding is a unique way of exploring the sights and life of the island. Samui Paddle Sports offers tours that reveal the pristine nature of Koh Samui. Not interested in partying but still want a nighttime activity worth staying up late for? A night tour on an illuminated board might be just what you are looking for. +66 (0) 87 895 1074, www.facebook.com/ samuipaddlesports

DELICIOUS DEPARTURES

If hunger strikes before your flight, try the Daymoon Bar & Eatery at the airport. This part-café, part-restaurant serves up substantial meals along with coffee and booze in a chill beach-bar setting.

Among hearty offerings are Wagyu Beef Burger while lighter bites include Aki Tuna Salad. Open daily from 10am to 8pm except Friday when it’s open from 8am to 9pm. +66 (0) 88 857 5563, facebook.com/ daymoonbarandeatery

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HAPPENINGS THAILAND SPOTLIGHT

Three Master Chefs at Explorar

SAMUI

Feast on an orchestra of flavours at the Gastronomic Series 6-hand Dinner courtesy of Explorar Hotels & Resorts.

Michelin-starred Chef Thierry Drapeau from Signature Bangkok has joined hands with two celebrated chefs from France, Sakal Phoeung and Raphael Kinimo, to whisk diners to new culinary heights in the South of Thailand.

The collaborative dinner is a two-day event, with a different theme for each night. Guests are invited to a degustation dinner on September 23 at Explorar Koh Samui, and a beach BBQ dinner on September 24 at Explorar Koh Phangan.

To make a reservation, visit fbm. kohsamui@explorarhotels.com

A TASTE OF SAMUI

Your tastebuds will thank you for visiting Phensiri, Samui’s celebrated home of Southern Thai fine dining. The menu here invites Thais and foreigners alike to rediscover the island’s long-forgotten recipes along with reimagined classics. Every bite is infused with the finest Thai culinary traditions and the freshness of local ingredients. Set meals feature an amuse-bouche, soup and your choice of main, dessert, and pairing drinks.

Surrounded by a lush green garden, the restaurant exudes a sense of natural serenity and homeliness. +66 (0) 77 945 151, www.facebook.com/PhensiriKohSamui

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OCEAN VIEW, SEA OF FLAVOURS

Choose Dining on the Rocks at Six Senses Samui for gorgeous ocean views accompanied by stunning cuisine. Spacious outdoor decks on rocks overlooking the Gulf of Thailand are the platform for a menu that emphasises the bounty of local organic produce. Helmed by Executive Chef Kien Wagner, the kitchen mixes French flair with drool-inducing Asian flavours and influences.

Choose from four tasting menus. Taste of Rock offers a six-course menu highlighted by Beef Tartare, Tiger Prawn Tart and Grand Cru Lava Pudding. The Sea Tasting teases palates with Hua Hin caviar and Andaman white snapper, while The Plant Tasting entices with innovative veggie creations.

The Four-Course Introductory Tasting menu has even more choices, or diners can also go à la carte. +66 (0) 77 245 678, www.sixsenses.com/en/resorts/samui/dining/dining-on-the-rocks

HAPPENINGS THAILAND

SPOTLIGHT

Sacred Heart If you’re interested in Buddhist temples, be sure to visit Wat Chaitharam or Wat Chalong. Built in the early 19th century, Wat Chalong is dominated by the 60-metre-tall chedi, which houses relics of the Buddha.

The temple itself is dedicated to two monks revered for tending to locals during a rebellion by Chinese tin miners in 1876. The grounds feature lovingly maintained flower gardens and fountains, with several buildings open to devotees and tourists. However, the most striking is the three-storey chedi, which sports vivid paintings inside and offers a bird’s eye view from the top. +66 (0) 76 381 226, www.wat-chalong-phuket.com

DO LOOK DOWN

PHUKET’S RICH BACKSTORY

Phuket has a rich and intriguing backstory that goes overlooked by many visitors. From an untamed jungle full of wild rhinos and pillaging pirates to the world’s richest tin mines, the island’s history unspools like an epic action movie. Playing a starring role were the huge numbers of Chinese who immigrated here centuries ago.

And the Thai Hua Museum exists to tell their tales.

Located on Krabi Road in Old Town Phuket, the Thai Hua Museum reveals the stories of these brave Chinese pioneers who carved the island’s culture. +66 (0) 76 211 224

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Get a bird’s eye view of Phuket’s spectacular tropical landscape with Thailand Super Adventure (TSA)’s tandem paramotor tour.

Suspended beneath a huge kite powered by a propeller in the back, you get a mind-blowing view of lush green mountains, colourful reefs beneath sparkling clear waters, and awe-inspiring rock formations. TSA also offers paramotor tours in Pattaya as well as a host of other adventure sports like skydiving and wakeboarding. tessadventure.com

PHUKET

PADDLING PHUKET

Paddle Asia is far from the only option for kayaking in Phuket, but they stand out by offering paths less travelled, small group sizes and sit-inside kayaks that are more stable and comfortable. Another bonus is the guides from Koh Yao Noi who know the local waters intimately.

Options at Paddle Asia range from day tours of Phang Nga Bay to multi-day kayakcamping trips. They are safety oriented and highly experienced, having led tours since 1999. +66 (0) 81 893 6558, www.paddleasia.com

RARE FINISHING TOUCHES

Looking to feather your nest with unique colour, style and moods?

Head to Tara Home Décor, where you will find a curated collection of unique handcrafted furniture, decoration and household accessories sourced from countries like India, Turkey, Morocco and more. Discover intriguing treasures such as intricately carved antique doors from Indonesia and Africa, colourful bohemian throw pillows and quilts, eye-catching lighting accessories, and vintage mirror frames. Tara Home Décor can also be found in Pattaya and in Bangkok soon. www.tarahomedecor.com

LESSONS ON THE PERFECT POUR

Since opening its Phuket base in 2007, the 24-year-old European Bartender School (EBS) has been teaching would-be bartenders the magic of serving up the perfect tipple. The resort campus in Kata Beach blends beach-club pool, jacuzzi, outdoor cinema and restaurant with stateof-the-art bartender teaching facilities. Each training area is built in line with the EBS Pillars of Education – Bar Practice, Flair, Free Pour, and Masterclasses. Courses are designed by industry experts and offered in Thai, English, French and German. Upon graduating, students are awarded a globally recognised certificate, access to a network of valuable industry contacts and the opportunity to find an exciting job via the EBS MatchStaff platform. www.barschool.net/th

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HAPPENINGS THAILAND

PHUKET/KRABI

BELLY-PLEASING BEBOP

Night owls on the hunt for culture and class in Phuket will find rich pickings for the ear and belly at Bebop Live Music Bar & Restaurant. Easy on the eye too, this intimate live music venue offers a cosy place to nest amid funky eclectic decor.

On the menu are lush vocals backed by talented musicians and washed down with a big selection of wines, spirits, cocktails and beer. Add tasty snacks and smiling service and you have the right ingredients for a bopping evening in Old Town Phuket. +66 (0) 89 591 4611

DOUGHNUTS WITH SOUL

Fancy a fresh, fluffy, rich-tasting doughnut that’s not from a chain store? Khunya’s Donut Shop is the answer to your foodie prayers. This tiny little hut is a one-woman show cooked up during Covid times – and what a show it is.

Take your choice from a daily selection of classic flavours like chocolate-coconut, caramel-peanut, matcha green tea, and fruit jam & cream. These artisanal sugary treats will quench the desire of even the most discerning doughnut connoisseur. You can find Khunya Donuts in two locations: near Chalong Circle and near Central Festival Phuket. +66 (0) 62 385 6498, www.facebook.com/khunyadonut

RED GINGER AND PAKASAI – KRABI’S GREEN HOTELS

Tolani Hotels has added two more hotels to its management portfolio – Red Ginger Chic Resort and the nearby Pakasai Resort.

Red Ginger is a captivating boutique oasis where Oriental design meets soothing sensory delights. This eco-friendly hideaway also has solid green credentials, having bagged the prestigious ASEAN Energy Award for Energy Management in 2020. Its 63 rooms and suites with vibrant, playful vibes offer a perfect escape for singles, couples and families.

Pakasai Resort maintains the sustainability theme with its zero-waste food concept, aiming to become

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Krabi’s first Green Star Michelin restaurant.

Nestled in lush gardens with breathtaking views of the Andaman Sea, the resort boasts 104 beautifully appointed rooms and suites, an inviting outdoor swimming pool, a traditional Thai medicine clinic and spa and a restaurant serving Thai and international delicacies.

Low-carbon accommodation, eco-friendly activities, sustainable packages, and green meeting services have earned Pakasai successive ASEAN Green Hotel Awards since 2014. www.tolanihotels.com

THAILAND

CHIANG MAI / PATTAYA / TRAT

SPOTLIGHT

You Are the Catch The beachside Fish Club serves a mouth-watering menu from a beautiful spot sandwiched between the Andaz resort’s infinity pool and the gorgeous Andaman Sea. Enjoy light daytime snacks like Khao Soi Gung (curried noodles with prawns), Phad Thai Gung Mangkorn (stir-fried rice noodles with lobster) and tuna tacos. Watch the sun sink over

the horizon with a Thai rum tiki cocktail or wait for the sizzling sound of barbecued seafood being served up for the buffet dinner. Fish Club is also a great hideout for late-night cocktails to the beat of live DJ sets. Fish Club is open from 11am to midnight daily. Andaz Pattaya Jomtien Beach Resort, 345 Na Jomtien, Sattahip, Pattaya, Chon Buri. +66 (0) 38 221 234, andazpattaya.com CHIANG MAI’S PLEASING CHEESES

Chiang Mai’s culinary scene has three local specialities drooled over by foodies – Khao Soi (curried noodles), Sai Oua (fermented sausages), and Nam Phrik Num (green chilli paste). So, an offer to visit a local cheesemaker might seem like a tourist trap.

But here’s why you should grab the chance. Jartisann Cheeserie, founded by husband-and-wife team Jarutat and Ann, makes bold handcrafted cheeses that burst with flavour and unique Thai touches.

TRAT’S HIDDEN CULINARY TREASURE

If you’re visiting Trat province on Thailand’s eastern coast, leave some room in your belly for a local favourite. This coastal province is famous for tasty seafood like trevally, barracuda, mullet and squid – but the top-billing on menus goes to blue-spotted sea bass.

Known as Pla Yum Sawat among locals, the blue-spotted sea bass is sought after for its sweet flavours and crisp texture.

Its white, flaky flesh with a distinctively grainy texture is packed with protein and healthy omega-3 fatty acids. Whether grilled, steamed, pan-roasted, served raw or in a Tom Yum soup, the fish sings with ocean flavours. The delicious taste is worth paying a little extra for, and you’ll get to discover why foodies call it one of Thailand’s hidden culinary treasures.

Visit their Jartisann Cheese Café and Bar and treat your tastebuds to the soft and creamy San Paquanburie, the semi-hard blue-veined Royal Bleu and many other unique fermented delicacies.

Jartisann Cheese Café and Bar is open Monday-Saturday, 9.30am to 5.45pm.

242 Wangtan Village, San Phak Wan, Hang Dong, Chiang Mai, +66 (0) 80 546 3615, www.facebook.com/JartisannCheeserie

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HAPPENINGS

Photos: teamLab

CHINA

HONG KONG

SPOTLIGHT

Create Your Own Future

Photos: Hong Kong Tourism Board

World-renowned art collective teamLab arrives with a mesmerising pop-up amusement park to delight visitors during Hong Kong’s summer season.

The teamLab Future Park showcases six of the outfit’s best works for a one-of-akind journey through art and technology.

Spread over 10,000 square feet, the teamLab Future Park offers a multisensory adventure for visitors of all ages, allowing them to collaborate in a creative high-tech space.

Installations ranging from a lightball orchestra to “sketch town” and “Hopscotch for Geniuses” invite visitors to explore and share their creativity with others. Future Park runs until January 14, 2024. Mondays to Fridays 2pm to 10pm; Saturdays and Sundays 10am to 10pm.

Megabox, 13F Megabox, 38 Wang Chiu Road, Kowloon Bay, Kowloon. General admission, adults: $220, children: $180; www.futurepark. teamlab.art

GRAZE THE GLOBE IN HONG KONG

brewers. Master chefs will be on hand to create their star dishes, complemented by a huge choice of single malts, liquor and craft beer.

Foodies can grab a spot at the Tasting Theatre for tasting and cooking workshops. From October 26-29, Central Harbourfront; www.discoverhongkong.com

Photos: Coa

The Hong Kong Wine & Dine Festival returns after a hiatus in October, much to the delight of foodies here and around the globe. Visitors can expect a vast banquet of world cuisines, beverages and entertainment served up at Central Harbourfront with the gorgeous Victoria Harbour skyline as a backdrop.

The culinary fiesta will boast a whopping 400 booths and host chefs, culinary experts, wineries and

BEFRIEND MEXICAN FIREWATER

Since arriving in 2019, Coa has carved a reputation as one of Hong Kong’s best and most distinctive bars. Owned and helmed by star bartender Jay Khan, Coa – named after the machete-like tool used to harvest agave for tequila and mezcal – pays homage to this and other famous Mexican firewaters.

Also served in this warm, inviting industrial-style space are lesser-known Mexican spirits like raicilla, sotol, bacanora and charanda, with some 200 bottles of exotic distillations on display.

For a delicious introduction to this exotic liquorscape, try Coa’s signature cocktail, La Paloma de Oaxaca. The bar also stocks canned and bottled cocktails as well as kits for mixologists to experiment with at home. LG/F Wah Shin House, 6-10 Shin Hing Street, Central; Tuesdays to Sundays; 6pm to 12am; www.coa.com.hk

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Photos: Base Entertainment

SINGAPORE

SPOTLIGHT

Romeo Who?

Romeo & Juliet is a timeless romantic tale, but what if the ending we know so well was just the beginning? The hilarious Tony-nominated Broadway musical “& Juliet” explores this notion by giving our starcrossed lover the chance to choose her own fate.

In this version of Shakespeare’s classic, Juliet recovers from heartbreak in style – dancing the night away with her best friends.

But when the sparkle fades and reality dawns, it’s clear that Juliet needs to face her past to find her future. Can she rewrite a story that was written in the stars, and find life after Romeo?

With glittering pop anthems by Max Martin, “& Juliet” shines as one of the best musicals to hit the stage in a long time.

From September 21 to October 8, Marina Bay Sands; Tuesday to Friday: 8pm; Saturday: 2pm & 8pm; Sunday 1pm & 6.30pm, Tickets: S$68 - S$238; www.marinabaysands.com

Photos: Mighty Jaxx

Photo: Cat Bite Club

ENTER THE UPSIDE DOWN

Netflix series “Stranger Things” has been captivating TV viewers since 2016, but Singaporeans are now getting a real-life introduction to its spooky world. “Stranger Things – The Encounter”, created by Singapore-based studio Mighty Jaxx, whisks visitors to the fictional town of Hawkins, Indiana.

Here they can interact with scenes from the series brought to life through special effects and cutting-edge technology.

There are six interactive rooms plus an 80s inspired, immersive shopping experience with customisable merchandise.

“Stranger Things - The Encounter” runs at Bugis+, Level 2 and 7 until October 1, from 2pm to 10pm (weekdays), 10am to 10pm (Fridays and weekends). Tickets start at S$15; www.strangerthingsencounter.com

CAT’S GOT THE CREAM

Singapore’s new Cat Bite Club is difficult to miss – keep an eye open for a neon-lit grinning Cheshire cat on Duxton Road. Once inside, take your pick from 100 different agave and rice spirits.

Guests can opt for a neat pour, a sampling flight or choose from the impressive list of alcoholic and non-alcoholic concoctions.

Cat Bite also serves up an innovative menu of tasty nibbles to go with the drinks. Think Chilli Chicken Bao, Tuna Tostada, and Chips and Guac. 75 Duxton Rd, Singapore, Mondays to Saturdays, 5pm to midnight; www.catbiteclub.com

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HAPPENINGS CAMBODIA

PHNOM PENH / SIEM REAP

RIDE ‘N’ SLIDE

Photos: Cuisine Wat Damnak

SPOTLIGHT

French Khmer Flair

Cuisine Wat Damnak opened its doors 12 years ago and quickly earned a reputation as one of Siem Reap’s best restaurants.

Food critics agreed: this cutting-edge eatery was also among the first in Cambodia to be listed as one of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.

What makes Cuisine Wat Damnak stand out is its innovative approach to food. Under the leadership of Joannès Rivière, the restaurant blends authentic

PEAK SHOPPING

The Peak is rising to become the ultimate luxury retail space in Phnom Penh.

The complex has already inked lease agreements with global fashion brands like Clarks, Aigner, Paul & Shark, and Japanese eyewear brand, Owndays.

Located minutes from Nagaworld, the city’s only casino, The Peak will be topped by two 55-storey residential buildings, a commercial tower and a five-star hotel.

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The one and only wakeboard park in Cambodia, ICF Wakepark brings the thrills, chills and spills of the ocean to Siem Reap.

Splashed across 90,000sqm of the downtown area, the site even houses its own beach bar and restaurant.

Adrenaline addicts can get their fix from a wide range of water sports, including knee boarding, water skiing and wakeboarding. Prefer to make a big splash rather than ride waves? Then opt for the water park, where slides, obstacle courses and much more should keep you entertained for hours. Open TuesdaySunday, 11am-7pm, www.icf-waterpark.com

Cambodian flavours with French culinary techniques to create unique mouth-watering dishes.

The raw materials are sourced from nearby farms to ensure freshness, and the menu changes according to the seasons and inspirations of the chef. The venue and surroundings are equally charming – a traditional wooden house between Psa Dey Hoy market and Angkor High School in the Sala Kamreuk Commune. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 6.30pm to 9pm, www.cuisinewatdamnak.com

Spread over 25,000sqm, The Peak Shoppes boasts five floors of speciality outlets, stores, F&B spaces and entertainment spots.

The Peak sits across the city’s iconic esplanade just a stone’s throw from popular landmarks like the Grand Palace, the National Museum, the Great Stupa and the Old Market. www.thepeakcambodia.com

SET SAIL ON THE MEKONG

It’s full speed ahead for Aqua Mekong as one of Asia’s finest river cruise ships embarks again for luxury trips from Phnom Penh to Vietnam and back.

The 20-suite Aqua Mekong offers unique breaks of between three and seven nights on the mighty Mekong River. Lavish, state-of-the-art interiors are paired with menus crafted by Michelin-starred Chef David Thompson and drinks concocted

by Proof & Co. However, it’s not just a Mekong cruise on offer.

The Aqua Mekong also operates a fleet of launch boats that ferry guests off on personal excursions. www.aquaexpeditions.com

LAOS

LUANG PRABANG

SPOTLIGHT

Buddhist Culture Trips

Photos: Orange Robe Tours

Intimate, personal and insight-rich, Orange Robe Tours offers visitors a unique opportunity to explore the sacred side of Luang Prabang. This profit-for-a-purpose social enterprise employs novices and monks who have recently left the monastery to guide visitors through the culture and customs of Laos.

This also gives them much-needed support as they transition from the monastery back to ordinary life. Part of the proceeds go to temples that Orange Robe Tours partners with.

With tours limited to seven guests, everybody is assured a fulfilling experience. There are two tours on offer. The Cultural Temple Tour explores local temples and is focused on culture and architecture. The Guided Meditation includes instruction on meditation techniques.

Tours are priced at US$20 per person. www.orangerobetours.com COCKTAIL ICONS

Photos: Icon Klub

BOWL PARTY

Ten-pin bowling might not be high on many travellers’ itineraries, but a strike and a drink could be the perfect R&R after a day of visiting temples.

Considered one of Luang Prabang’s coolest party spots, the Bowling Sports Club is perhaps the only place in town to grab a drink and bite to eat after closing hours. Plus you get to knock down a few pins with locals and other tourists.

V48C+R5H, Luang Prabang, Laos; +856 20 58 300 457; Mondays to Saturdays: 11am to 2.30am; Sundays: 11am to 12am.

Icon Klub’s reputation as one of the best bars in Luang Prabang is built on top-notch cocktail creations served here since 2009.

The laid-back bohemian setting also encourages interesting conversations with the regular local clientele.

Located in the heart of the old town, this cosy watering hole mixes innovative liquid homages to pop icons with regular reading and poetry workshops. Ban Xiengmouane 51/4, Luang Prabang, Laos; +856 20 52 554 646; Opens daily 5.30pm to 23.30pm; www.iconklub.com

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CHECKING OUT

Bliss in the Mist There’s nothing like waking up to fresh and misty morning views in Mae Hong Son’s Baan Jabo, where travellers savour the slow life second by second.

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