Fah Thai Magazine - Inflight Magazine of Bangkok Airways May-June 2023

KOH SAMUI REJUVENATED

DISCOVERING SOUTHERN THAI CUISINE

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

THE BUZZ IN OLD BANGKOK

MAY-JUN 2023

CHIANG MAI’S LANNA GLAMOUR

EXPLORAR KOH SAMUI THE ADULTS-ONLY RESORT (16+)

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EXPLORARHOTELS.COM

LONG LIVE HER MAJESTY

QUEEN SUTHIDA BAJRASUDHABIMALALAKSHANA

Bangkok Airways and Fah Thai magazine jointly wish Her Majesty the Queen the very best wishes on the auspicious occasion of her birthday anniversary on 3rd June, 2023

MESSAGE FROM THE PRESIDENT

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A Model Of Gracious Living

OVERTURES 12 PLAN AHEAD

20 SOUL SOUP

16 WHAT’S UP, CHIANG MAI?

22 SCARY FRUIT?

Let’s save the dates for cultural events, jazzy music, sports action, and fun festivals.

Out and about in the land of Lanna culture. Pay a visit to glorious temples, day and night markets, or opt for art in town.

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Gaeng Liang may not be as popular as Tom Yum Goong, but every slurp bursts with Thai flavour – and health benefits.

Don’t be horrified by the name: the strange but delicious Snake Fruit won’t bite you.

24 COCONUT BALLS

Craving something sweet and local? Try Khanom Tom, a recipe dating back to the Sukhothai era.

28 ARTS & NATURE

Fah Thai interviews artist Verapat Sitipol, whose visions of Thai beauty are thrilling Europe.

FEATURES

From Leica’s new Disney camera to Louis Vuitton’s earphones, Tech Talk offers you a selection of cool new gadgets to carry on-the-go.

34 DREAM ISLAND

Koh Samui is back and better than ever, with a fresh blend of chic style and crystal-clear waters.

42 SOUTHERN THAI TASTES

Munching through the South, prized by foodies for its fresh, deliciously strong and pungent flavours.

48 OLD BANGKOK ‘SECRET’

Hidden behind chaotic Yaowarat in Chinatown, discover the buzzing bars, restaurants and galleries of Song Wat.

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Old Bangkok Goes Hip

Image: Warunyoo Somboon

32 TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

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HAPPENINGS

CORPORATE

Check out hip hangouts in Thailand and its neighbours.

76 BANGKOK AIRWAYS NEWS 81 ROUTE MAP

58 BANGKOK 61 SAMUI 66 PHUKET 69 CHIANG MAI / PATTAYA / TRAT

70 PHNOM PENH 71 SIEM REAP 72 LUANG PRABANG 73 SINGAPORE

CHECKING OUT

This month’s cover: Reviving Samui

82 LIGHT THE NIGHT

Local and international artists light up the Marina Bay in i Light Festival in June.

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Flavourful South

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Amidst a panoramic dreamscape that overlooks the pristine Crystal Bay, The Cliff warmly invites you to a truly unforgettable dining experience.

Mediterranean Cuisine: Asia

Luxury Scenic Setting: South East Asia

Most Romantic Atmosphere: Thailand

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"Thailand's Best Restaurants" 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2017, 2018 & 2019

Most Trendy Casual Dining

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Reservations Essential reservations@brmunns.com | www.thecliffsamui.com | +66 (0) 77 448 508 Open Monday - Sunday 12:00 pm - 12:00 am

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EDITORIAL

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BEST USE OF PHOTOGRAPHY

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Editor-in-Chief Anutra Ungsuprasert Sub Editor Ramona Varma Deputy Editor Sarita Urupongsa Contributors Jan Thammapakkul Jeremie Schatz Kankanit Wichiantanon Khetsirin Pholdhampalit Loren Infeld Phoowadon Duangmee Pinanong Panchuen Richard Augustin Sirin P. Wongpanit Tossaporn Klinhom Contributing Photographers Bobby Heng Loren Infeld Samatcha Apaisuwan Sirin P. Wongpanit

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ESSENTIAL NOTES TO GUIDE YOUR TRAVELS

Jazz On The Beach

Photo: Merlijn Doomernik

Ellister van der Molen and other acclaimed artists from Europe, South America, the US and Thailand blow in for nightly performances of jazz under the stars at beachside backdrops.

NEWS & EVENTS 12 / THAILAND TREASURES 16 / A TASTE OF THAILAND 20 / FRUITFUL FINDS 22 / JUST DESSERT 24 / ARTS & CULTURAL MATTERS 28 / TECH TALK 32

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OVERTURES NEWS AND EVENTS

2-7

MAY 2023

SAMUI

JAZZ ON THE BEACH

LAOS & THAILAND

3... 2... 1...

The Rocket Festival or Bun Bang Fai is held every year as a booming wakeup call to the rain gods. The festival blasts off in Laos and across the North of Thailand in Roi Et, Yasothon, Chiang Rai and Nan – but the launch date varies from province to province.

Men and women gather in fields on the outskirts of villages to light fuses on fearsome homemade missiles. The village that launches its rockets highest in the sky is declared winner. The rocket competition is held to praise the spirit of the sky who generously provides rain to ensure a bountiful harvest. tourismlaos.org, tourismthailand.org

7-21

MAY 2023

SINGAPORE

SHAKING IT UP

The Lion City is set to roar as the Singapore Cocktail Festival (SGCF) returns under the theme “Shaking Up New Possibilities”. The three-week booze bonanza is all about celebrating Asia’s best cocktails with a total of 45 bars showcasing old favourites and new inventions from May 5 to 7.

The festival will kickstart with a party in the heart of the city. Expect a line-up of prizewinning bartenders, top watering holes, brand pop-ups, and artisanal spirit-tasting booths, all in one place. www.singaporecocktailfestival.com

Photo: Singapore Cocktail Festival

Six consecutive nights of world-class jazz return with a top line-up of domestic and international talent at beachside venues. The Samui Summer Jazz Festival 2023 will light up W Samui, Hansar Samui, Secret Garden Resort, SEEN Beach Club, Six Senses Samui, Santiburi Koh Samui, and Centara Reserve Koh Samui from May 2 to 7.

The festival kicks off with the sensational New York Grand Classics of Swing Orchestra leading a tour through the golden age of jazz.

Other highlights on the musical menu are South American sax sensation Lucas Santana, Susanne Alt, the Sven Rozier Quintet featuring Lizzy Ossevoort, the Baer Traa Quintet, Alexander Beets, and Sound of Siam featuring the cream of Thailand’s vibrant jazz scene Koh Mr. Saxman, Pui Duangpon and more.

The jazz fest is presented by SKÅL Samui and its charity partner Sisters on Samui (SOS), supported by Conrad Properties, Brother, Wattanapat Hospital, and Bangkok Airways. samuisummerjazz.com

May- Jun 2023

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Mid May SOUTHERN THAILAND

CHAO LAY BOAT FLOATING FESTIVAL

This ancient sea ritual is an unmissable event if you happen to be visiting Satun, Krabi, or Phuket during May. The Chao Lay Boat Floating Festival is held twice a year at Koh Lipe in Satun, Rawai Beach and Sapam Village in Phuket, and Koh Lanta in Krabi. The local Urak Lawoi, an indigenous Malay people known as sea nomads, create intricately carved and colourful replicas of their fishing boats and set them adrift at night. The idea is to bring luck and ward off bad spirits that might harm their fishing expeditions throughout the year.

Little dolls along with fingernail clippings and strands of hair are added to the boats before they are set adrift. The festival culminates in the traditional Ram Rong Ngong dance as villagers bless their boats for the coming fishing season. tourismthailand.org

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MAY 2023

PHUKET

BABA WEDDING

Brides, grooms and crowds of well-wishers take part in the exquisite Peranakan or Baba-style mass wedding every year. The Phuket Baba Wedding festival showcases elaborate marriage traditions adopted by Thais of Chinese heritage in the elegant Sino-Portuguese mansions tucked away in Phuket’s Old Town.

Unique wedding attire is just one fascinating feature of traditional Baba weddings. The bride wears a colourful, long lace tunic or kebaya coupled with the Pate – a Malay-style batik sarong – and a set of traditional gold necklaces, brooches, anklets, and beaded sandals. Grooms are often decked out in white or tan-coloured vintage western suits, a nod to the influence of Western traders during Phuket’s tin mining heyday. Street celebrations and a colourful parade give well-wishers a chance to admire the newlyweds in their finery. +66 (0) 81 691 1955, www.facebook.com/Phuketbabawedding

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MAY 2023

CHIANG MAI

INTHAKHIN CITY PILLAR SHRINE

Photos: The Thai Peranakan Association

King Mengrai had the Inthakhin pillar erected to mark the founding of Chiang Mai in 1296. The pillar was then moved from its original home at Wat Inthakhin to Wat Chedi Luang in the heart of Chiang Mai City in the 1800s. Each year, the city celebrates the advent of rainy season by worshipping this sacred monument.

After a period of dry spells and drought, locals welcome the arrival of life-giving rain with colourful celebrations and a major merit-making ceremony at the temple as they pray for bountiful rice crops and a healthy harvest. tatcontactcenter.com/en

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OVERTURES NEWS AND EVENTS

20-27

22-24

Since its launch in 2002, Samui Regatta has grown to attract the best yachts in Asia and a large following keen to experience sensational sailing, great parties and everything else the island has to offer. The regatta is a truly international event with around 500 competitors participating from two-dozen countries.

This year, the regatta is back at Chaweng Beach but the social events will be spread around the whole island. www.samuiregatta.com

Dragon Boat racing dates back to ancient China. Today, the races are held across Asia and even worldwide as a colourful celebration of teamwork, competitive spirit and athleticism.

The large Chinese community in Singapore offers one of the best examples of the spectacular sport with its annual Dragon Boat Festival.

Visitors from around world flock to Bedok Reservoir, the Kallang River, and Gardens by the Bay to get a good view of the action. Amid the fast and furious boat racing, people toss rice dumplings wrapped in banana leaves into the water, inspired by an ancient legend. sdba.org.sg

MAY 2023

SAMUI

SINGAPORE

SAMUI REGATTA

DRAGON BOAT FESTIVAL

3

JUN 2023

THROUGHOUT THE REGION

VISAKHA BUCHA

Photos: Samui Regatta

Marking the Buddha’s birth, enlightenment and death, Visakha Bucha in Thailand takes place on the full moon of the sixth lunar month.

Thai Buddhists flock to temples to pray, listen to sermons and make merit in the sacred atmosphere of this special day.

The evening brings candlelit processions as devotees walk clockwise three times around the temple, celebrating the triple jewels of Buddhism — the Buddha, his teachings, and the sangha or monkhood.

Visakha Bucha Day is also marked in Laos as Vixakha Bouxa, Malaysia as Hari Wesak, Singapore as Vesak, Vietnam as Phat Dan, and Cambodia as Visak Bochea.

A no-alcohol rule means pubs and bars are often closed on Visakha Bucha Day.

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JUN 2023

OVERTURES THAILAND TREASURES

Chiang Mai: Lanna from Heaven Lifting the lid on Thai northern culture

Words: Phoowadon Duangmee

Steeped in rich heritage and cuisine from its days as a kingdom’s capital, this historical city also buzzes with contemporary culture.

Founded in a mountain valley in 1296, Chiang Mai is the former capital city of the Lanna kingdom. Ancient temples, elaborate craftwork, traditional foods, scenic mountains and a laid-back attitude – Chiang Mai has kept its charm while still flowing with the times. Visitors can enjoy an array of leisure activities or simply stroll around Chiang Mai’s Old City, where they will discover the moated quarter crammed with historic wats (temples), chill-out cafés, restaurants, and stylish boutique hotels.

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Get to grips with its history at the Chiang Mai Arts and Culture Centre, set inside the old Provincial Hall. This museum provides an excellent overview of Chiang Mai’s journey from the first simple wooden settlement to a busy modern metropolis, using dioramas, photos, artefacts, and audio-visual displays. Just like travel, the journey through history and culture opens new vistas and encourages us to think beyond ourselves. Visitors are catapulted back to the present at the Maiiam Contemporary Art Museum, located half an hour’s drive away in San Kamphaeng.

The 150-baht entry fee give access to a feast of modern and contemporary art by local and international artists.

Chiang Mai served as the seat of the Lanna kingdom for 266 years, from 1292 to 1558. Today, the Chiang Mai Old City still resonates with Lanna customs, arts, architectural achievements and distinct flavours. Temple hopping is a favourite way of touring the moated city. But if you don’t want to spend too much time in too many places, Wat Phra Singh is the destination to head for. With its ancient pagoda, library buildings, Wiharn Lai

Clockwise from Top Right The Wiharn Lai Kham houses Phra Singh Buddha Maiiam Contemporary Art Museum shines with cutting-edge art An art exhibition at Maiiam Chiang Mai Arts and Culture Centre

Clockwise from Top Right Wat Phra Singh is a gleaming showcase of Lanna art and architecture Jing Jai Farmers’ Market Warorot Market

Kham (Golden Monastery), and Phra Singh (the most beautiful Buddha in Thailand’s North), Wat Phra Singh is a gleaming showcase of Lanna art and architecture.

Once you’ve investigated the heart of Chiang Mai’s heritage, the markets should be a-calling. Warorot Market (Kad Luang) and Ton Lamyai Market – two connecting foodie paradises along the Ping River – are beloved of locals and visitors who come to pick up anything from “sai oua” sausage, pork crackling and “nam phrik num” (green chilli dip) to free-range chicken and cannon ball-sized avocados.

Open Saturday and Sunday from 6.30am to 2pm, Jing Jai Farmers’ Market Chiang Mai lays out a feast of fresh organic products. Farmers, bakers, grocers and artisans sell their fresh vegetables and treats to chatty locals and tourists, who take serious pleasure in discussing the origin of their foods.

Chiang Mai is a spellbinding city with incredible local arts, boutique shops and arts scene. But even more magic reverberates from small communities inside and beyond the old city, where artisans carry on centuries-old artistic traditions.

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OVERTURES THAILAND TREASURES

Clockwise from Top Tha Phae Sunday Walking Street comes alive with the sights, sounds and scents of Chiang Mai The atmosphere of Baan Khang Wat A weekend market in Chiang Mai The latest hangout spot along the Mae Kha Canal

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Silversmiths live in the temple neighbourhood around Wat Si Suphan – where they have left their mark in the elaborate silver ordination hall. Every Saturday evening, local artisans can be found on Wua Lai Walking Street plying their silverware, artworks and other precious handicrafts. Or head to the Tha Phae Gate on Sunday evenings to see the Tha Phae Sunday Walking Street come alive with the sights, sounds, and scents of Lanna heritage. If you can’t wait until the weekend, treat yourself at Baan Khang Wat. The “craft village” just a short ride from the Suan Dok Gate is a great place to discover handmade creations, from silver jewellery, basketry,

celadon, and silverware to lacquerware, woodcarvings and parasols.

While you’re in Chiang Mai, a stroll along the Mae Kha Canal is not to be missed. The one-kilometre section of walkway known as “Otaru Canal” for its Japanese-themed waterfront is the city’s newest landmark. Once Chiang Mai’s dirtiest waterway, it’s now been cleaned up and pedestrianised to make more room for outdoor living and green public space. Today, the beautiful waterway is car and hawker-free, with bars, souvenir shops, and craft stalls, as well as restaurants, making it an ideal place to stop for food and shopping before calling it a day.

OVERTURES A TASTE OF THAILAND

Thai food is a delectable, enchanting adventure for many people. Created from the simplest ingredients, this renowned cuisine features a unique and almost endless menu of dishes that reflects culinary wisdom passed on from generation to generation.

To pick a favourite Thai dish can be difficult as there are so many delicious choices with the power to not only delight the palate but also bring health benefits. Gaeng Liang is a perfect example.

The peppery vegetable soup is a popular Thai recipe, especially among the older generation. Apart from its key ingredients of peppercorns and lemon basil leaves, the soup is rich in assorted vegetables and various gourds – bottle, cucumber, or ivy gourds – all known for their cooling effect. Gaeng Liang is therefore among the top choices when it comes to healthy recipes as it balances the body and stimulates digestion. Also known as mommy’s booster for its legendary ability to boost breast milk, this delicious soup regulates the body’s elements according to traditional Chinese medicine. You could even call it a super-food, packed with a variety of different benefits.

To recreate the fragrance and perfectly balanced flavours of this classic recipe, you need a dried shrimp curry paste accompanied by shrimp paste, garlic, and peppercorns.

The broth should not be too clear or too thick, but infused with the rich complexity of salty, sweet, and peppery flavours that go so well with a hearty plateful of steaming rice.

Gaeng Liang’s ingredients may change depending on availability and locality. The local greens are usually what gives the soup its different varieties.

Choices range from young galangal, baby corn and luffa to straw mushrooms and pumpkin, while the protein usually comes from fresh prawns.

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A Recipe for Health Thailand’s legendary Gaeng Liang soup offers potent peppery flavours with mouth-watering medical benefits

Inspired by the simplicity coupled with nourishing power of Gaeng Liang, chef Rosarin Sriprathum of Celadon has crafted Gaeng Liang Phak Plang (Malabar spinach) with crab meat and fresh prawns.

Ingredients • Shrimp paste • Dried shrimps • Shallots • Coriander roots • Straw mushrooms, halved • 5 bird’s-eye chillis, crushed • Pumpkin • Lemon basil • Baby corn • Phak Plang or Malabar spinach • Fingerroot • Crab meat • White prawns • Fish sauce • White peppercorns

WORDS SARITA URUPONGSA

Preparation  Pound shallots, fingerroot, coriander roots and white peppercorns into a smooth paste.  Add dried shrimps and shrimp paste and pound until the shrimps and paste are well mixed.  Place paste in a large pot of water and bring to the boil.  Immediately add Malabar spinach, crab meat, and prawns before bringing the pot back to a gentle boil.  Add a tablespoon of fish sauce to the broth.  Once the prawns are cooked through, turn off the heat immediately.

Open daily 6-11pm, Celadon, The Sukhothai Bangkok 13/3 South Sathorn Road, sukhothai. com, +66 (0) 2344 8888

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OVERTURES FRUITFUL FINDS

Delicate Flavours Under a Scaly Skin Don’t judge a fruit by its cover – or you might miss out on a delicious new taste sensation and pineapples – with a hint of apple cider. The flesh surrounds an inedible seed, which can be grown as an attractive houseplant.

You can eat the fruit on its own or dipped in the chilli, salt and sugar mix that is often served with cut fruit in Thailand. The fruit also pops up on Thai restaurants’ hotseason dessert menus as “loi kaew” or “fruit in syrup”. Chilled in a light syrup and served over crushed ice, loi kaew is the perfect antidote for the tropical heat.

Apart from being enjoyed fresh, the snake fruit is also used to make candy, juice, wine and even as an ingredient in savoury dishes like red curry or tom yum.

Snake fruit has also gained a reputation as a superfood that comes brimming with nutrients beneficial to health. Packed with antioxidants, its succulent flesh is thought to help slow down the ageing process if consumed regularly. Some believe it can even help prevent conditions that lead to a variety of different diseases.

WORDS JAN THAMMAPAKKUL

PHOTO & STYLE SAMATCHA APAISUWAN

Don’t be fooled by the unappetising reddish-brown scaly skin: the flesh of the snake fruit packs a unique sweet and tangy punch.

Originally native to Java and Sumatra in Indonesia, the snake fruit or “sala” as it is known in Thai can now be found all over the South of Thailand and in most Southeast Asian countries.

This unlikely fruit, which bursts forth from the salak palm tree in little bunches, is not much bigger than a fig and looks like a large clove of garlic when peeled.

However, when you bite into the juicy flesh, prepare to be surprised by a complex honey-like sweetness reminiscent of apples, bananas

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OVERTURES

Let the Sweet Balls Roll Discover the delicious smoky secret hidden inside Khanom Tom

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Thailand’s delectable sweet rice balls, or Khanom Tom, are tasty little treasures with an outer layer of crispy shredded coconut and a soft, chewy centre. Each bite fills the palate with a rich, perfectly balanced flavour and texture.

The balls, which date back to the Sukhothai Kingdom, are stuffed with a mixture called “Kra Cheek”, made from stir-fried palm sugar and overripe coconut. This filling is shaped into lumps before being perfumed with a scented candle – a traditional Thai dessert-making method in which the long wick of a beeswax candle is lit and placed between sweets packed in a glass jar. Once the flame reaches the wax candle, it is put out, leaving a musky smoky aroma to infuse the sweets.

The sweets can be smoked in this way for an hour or even overnight. The result is the classic aromatic Kra Cheek filling.

Once smoked, the filling is wrapped with a dough made of glutinous rice flour and coconut milk.

The pastel colours of Khanom Tom come from a variety of natural flavourings – purple from butterfly pea, green from pandan, and pink from roselle. The dough is then kneaded into tiny balls before being dropped into boiling water. When the balls rise to the top, they are rolled in shredded coconut and are ready to serve as soon as they cool down.

Khanom Tom can be found in almost all Thai dessert shops as well as fresh markets and food bazaars in department stores.

WORDS SARITA URUPONGSA

JUST DESSERT

OVERTURES ARTS & CULTURAL MATTERS

At Home in the Magical Forest

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Thai artist Verapat Sitipol loses himself in the wonder of Kanchanaburi to reveal our ancient connection with Mother Nature

THE ART OF EXPLORATION Art and nature have always been inseparably connected. Nature is the revered Mother of creation that brings forth inspiration and beauty. FAH THAI interviewed Verapat Sitipol, an artist who passionately combines his skills as a painter with the beauty of nature to create vivid reinterpretations of his surroundings.

We also found a variety of cultural venues for people of all ages to explore.

Opposite Page Verapat ushers us into his little kingdom of creativity­­­ ­— his studio Right Season Changing at Mae Ya Falls, oil on linen, 2022 Below Blessings from the Forest, oil on linen, 2021

Verapat Sitipol discovered the secret of art early in life, as a student at Silpakorn University’s Faculty of Decorative Arts, Applied Arts. He came to the realisation that learning about old masters was only the first step; to become a true artist he had to spread his creative wings and find his own unique self-expression. When given the opportunity to exercise his inner creative passion, the Thai artist turned not to words or personal emotions. Instead, he wanted to share the beauty and interconnectedness of the natural world as seen through a different looking glass.

That desire grew into a passion when Verapat decided to bid adieu to Bangkok and call Kanchanaburi his home 20 years ago. He has nurtured his creative flame here for the past two decades, lighting up galleries in Thailand and beyond with his visions of the western province. In February and March, he displayed his latest works in a solo exhibition at Over the Influence art gallery in Paris.

THERE’S A PATTERN OF FREEDOM AND FUN IN YOUR COLOUR CHOICES. LANDSCAPE IS ALSO IMPORTANT TO YOU. SO, WHAT IS THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN PLACES AND THE VIVID COLOURS YOU USE TO PAINT THEM?

but I’m not the type that has to look at the subject for inspiration. It could be the overall ambience that facilitates the transit to nature, and yet I might not realise that.

is a musical melody. Every time I draw or

HAVE YOU ALWAYS BEEN DRAWN TO ABSTRACT ART, OR IS IT SOMETHING THAT HAS EVOLVED WITH YOUR PRACTICE?

paint, I get the impression that I’m actually

It’s interesting that you view my work as

composing beautiful colour pieces. Nature

abstract, since to me it is clearly landscape

is my inspiration when it comes to the

painting. The reason may be that I’ve never

choice of colour. It brings freedom and

painted by looking at the subject – except

liveliness, but at the same time there’s this

for some stuff, for fun. I don’t even do

sense of peaceful stillness in all rhythms.

sketches, as my work is not based on

The scenery in my work is not just my

shape. It comes from these smooth-gliding

painting’s subject or temporary inspiration.

feelings that well up from inside. They co-

All the flora and fauna, the leaves, the

exist with the surrounding nature, which

mountains – everything is in my bones. My

in turn ignites creativity and improves the

studio may be surrounded by lush forests,

work. The process is certainly a synthesis

To me, the use of colour in my painting

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OVERTURES

Photo Courtesy: Over the Influence

ARTS & CULTURAL MATTERS

creative performance and the appearance

ARE YOU WORKING ON ANY EXCITING NEW PROJECTS?

do not matter. I don’t pay much attention

The most exciting project for me right now

to those things.

is to give this interview, and to see my

of the abstract. The conclusion of that

work published in media. When I was a

WHAT MESSAGE IS YOUR ART TRYING TO CONVEY?

kid, I dreamt I would be on the plane and

The same one that nature whispers to us:

published in an in-flight magazine? That’s

simple, yet wonderful. In my latest work,

another level. It is exciting and I’m proud of

“Magical Forest”, my focus is on climate

that achievement.

that came true. But having my artwork

change. I borrowed inspiration from the a common sight in Thailand – as the key to

WHO OR WHAT ARE YOUR BIGGEST INFLUENCES?

reflecting the Earth’s serene, lush fertility

I’d say my family, the natural surroundings,

that is disappearing gradually. This is a

and myself.

shape of rivers and waterfalls – these are

reminder to ourselves about whether we it. Technological progress is making our life

WHAT CAN WE EXPECT FROM YOUR NEXT PROJECT?

more convenient. But at the same time,

Sensitivity and intensity in terms of artistic

our beloved nature, which has always been

techniques, and a deeper meaning.

still need nature, and how much we need

our one true friend, is disappearing.

See more of Verapat’s art and updates on Instagram: verapatsitipol

Top Left Some pieces from his Magical Forest Exhibition held in March at the Over the Influence Gallery in Paris

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Top Right Verapat’s Magical Forest Exhibition at Over the Influence Gallery in Paris

Bottom Right The artist captured in his element at home studio in Kanchanaburi, Thailand

GOLDEN SANCTUARY

Luang Prabang is a gleaming jewel of contradictions. The town is a backpackers’ haven but also a peaceful sanctuary that lures travellers of all ages from across the world. Apart from the pristine scenery and locals’ kindness, Luang Prabang’s gleaming palaces of worship are what people come here to discover. Wat Pa Phon Phao or the Peacefulness Temple, for instance, is a peak experience for many visitors. Located atop a small hill, the temple offers panoramic views of the mountains and surrounding villages. Turn around on the outside terrace and you can feast your eyes on its glowing golden Santi Chedi (Peace Pagoda). Don’t miss the brightly painted murals illustrating the story of the Buddha and moral admonitions.

Free admission, V5M2+67F, 13, Luang Prabang, Laos

Kiddy Land

Learning occurs at any stage of life, but wasn’t it more wonderful and fun when you were young?

With wide eyes and playful curiosity, children’s minds wander joyfully from one place to another and dive straight into anything that interests them. As school break approaches, parents may be looking for places that are not only fun but also help enrich their kids’ spirit of adventure and lust for learning. Let’s check out some of the best!

ADVENTURE LEARNING

Children are full of energy and quick to learn. With the right place and the right method, their horizons can broaden to new worlds. Hong Kong Children’s Discovery Museum has found just the right formula with a play-based learning environment for everyone, especially children aged 10 and under. Launched in March, the brand-new 5,500 sqft museum houses more than 30 customised and interactive exhibitions in eight themed exhibition zones. Its mission is to get children to enjoy learning through fun and play in the areas of language and literacy, Science, Technology, Engineering, Art and Mathematics (STEAM) as well as environmental awareness. The themed zones take little visitors on a journey through the wonders of their surroundings, making their own discoveries and creations along with developing essential abilities of creativity, problem-solving, and social skills as they go.

Shop E (G/F) & 1/F, Island Walk, 163 Shau Kei Wan Road, Hong Kong, www.childrensdiscoverymuseum.hk/en/about-cdm

VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

Children’s Museum Singapore maintains this colonial school’s former life as a place of learning with a colourful and playful environment dedicated to children aged 12 and under. “A Voyage Back in Time”, the museum’s permanent exhibition, features an immersive theatre that tells the history of Singapore, while the special exhibition “Imagine A Garden” presents beautiful native flora and fauna as paper sculptures.

Children’s Museum Singapore features a wide range of other activities that promote kids’ cultural learning and friendship-building in a fun, interesting, and safe environment.

Advance booking is required. Admission fee is S$15 per adult, $10 per child. Open Tuesday-Sunday, 23-B Coleman Street, Singapore, www.nhb. gov.sg/childrensmuseum

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OVERTURES TECH TALK

Essential Travel Tech Words: Richard Augustin

The hottest new gadgets to boost all aspects of your life — from fitness and business to leisure and creativity THROUGH MICKEY’S EYES LEICA Q2 DISNEY “100 YEARS OF WONDER”

Leica has adorned its popular Q2 model with a custom design to celebrate Disney’s 100th birthday. The Leica Q2 Disney “100 Years of Wonder” sees the 35mm digital compact camera decked out in a special Mickey Mouse print reminiscent of the tracing paper used by original animators and artists.

Mickey is also spotted on the camera’s top plate with the Disney logo and edition number engraved on the back display glass. Limited to 500 units worldwide. Price: 230,000 baht / leica-camera.com

ALL-ROUNDER DEVICE ASUS VIVOBOOK 13 SLATE OLED

Built for performance and entertainment, the ASUS Vivobook 13 Slate OLED is one device that travellers will want to take on their next trip. The 2-in-1 laptop features a 13.3-inch detachable OLED Dolby Vision Pantone Validated touchscreen along with a quad-speaker Dolby Atmos Sound System. Creativity is a cinch with the handy ASUS Pen 2.0, an MPP 2.0-compliant stylus, four swappable tips, and convenient one-click Bluetooth functions via a shortcut button. A speedy new eight-core Intel Core processor offers faster performance and improved battery life. Price: 19,990 baht / asus.com/th

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CLEAN AIR, CRISP SOUND DYSON ZONE

SMART & STYLISH GARMIN VIVOMOVE TREND

Torn between a traditional timepiece and a smartwatch? Well, Garmin has sorted this problem out with its vivomove Trend, which combines a classic analogue watch with smart functionality. The hybrid device offers wearers a stylish way of staying connected along with health and fitness trackability. Pair it with an Apple or Android phone to receive text messages and notifications on the wrist.

The vivomove Trend offers five-day battery life in smartwatch mode and can conveniently charge wirelessly with most Qi-certified charging pads.

Price: 9,990 baht / garmin.com/th

The Dyson Zone is engineered to tackle the challenges of city noise and air pollution, offering wearers up to 50 hours of ultra-low distortion, advanced noise cancellation and faithful audio representation. However, it’s not just top sound quality the headphones aim to provide. Dyson Zone is also able to capture up to 99% of fine-particle air pollution through a high-efficiency filtration set-up. Crafted for comfort and a perfect fit, the device also comes with dual microphones and noise suppression technology for voice calls, recording and control. Price: Starts from 33,000 baht / dyson.co.th

GRADE-A PERFORMANCE SAMSUNG GALAXY A54 5G Premium specs without the scary price is how we would describe the new Samsung Galaxy A54, which packs flagship performance.

With a four-camera set-up including a 32MP front camera, the smartphone comes with enhanced features such as “night-o-graphy”, AI capabilities, Enhanced Object Eraser and IP67-certification for water and dust resistance. As for performance, it boasts a 6.4-inch immersive Super AMOLED display, fast 5G connectivity, long-lasting battery and advanced mobile security with Samsung Knox, among others.

Price: From 15,000 baht / samsung.com/th

FACE MATTERS THERABODY THERAFACE PRO

After building a reputation in fitness as well as portable massage guns, Therabody is expanding its presence in the realm of beauty. Its new TheraFace Pro uses percussion technology to reduce tension and relax facial muscles. And with the addition of silicone, a multi-spectrum LED light ring as well as heat and cryo attachments, users can enjoy skin-toning and rejuvenating therapies even when they’re busy jetting across the world. Price: 13,618 baht / goxip.co.th

THE SOUND OF LUXURY LOUIS VUITTON HORIZON LIGHT UP EARPHONES

Though known for leather goods, Louis Vuitton is now flexing its creative muscle in the field of technology.

The brand’s latest offering is third-generation exclusive wireless earphones, named Horizon Light Up. Inspired by the Tambour watch, the stylish earphones come in a luxury charging case or “on-the-go” alternative travel case. Sporting design codes typical of the French brand’s aesthetics, the earphones are built on a lightweight aluminium frame for minimum in-ear impact and are activated by a wear sensor. Price: 55,800 baht / th.louisvuitton.com

AIR APPARENT OPPO PAD AIR

Whether it’s for keeping up with social media, news, the latest television shows, or just reading a novel, the sleek and slim Oppo Pad Air is a perfect travel companion. Powered by a Snapdragon 680 chipset and sporting a 10-inch 2K display along with quad Dolby Atmos speakers, the tablet offers formidable features for today’s users. With a long-lasting 7100mAh battery and a choice of 4GB+64GB as well as 4GB+128GB configurations with 3GB of extended RAM, it’s also not short on power. Price: 10,000 baht / oppo.com/th

SMART SHADES OWNDAYS X HUAWEI SMART AUDIO GLASSES

CONFERENCES ON THE GO AUDEZE FILTER

Working remotely is the norm these days, and with that in mind, Audeze has created the Filter, a new portable conference speakerphone with artificially intelligent microphones. Thanks to the brand’s patented noise cancellation technology and magnetic speakers, the Filter can be used to communicate in perfect clarity in any environment.

Plus, weighing just 280 grams and no bigger than a smartphone, the Filter can be easily transported.

A full charge provides over 15 hours of playback via USB and Bluetooth 5.0. Price: 10,200 baht / audeze.com

FITNESS BUDDY CASIO MOVE GBD-H2000

Adding to its line of tough G-Shock watches, Casio has unveiled the new sports-driven G-Squad timepiece offering support for multiple sports and workouts. Kitted with GPS functionality plus heart rate, accelerometer, gyroscope and other sensors, the GBD-H2000 tracks fitness, distance, speed and other metrics for running, biking, swimming and more. Users can pair the watch with the Casio Watch app to review their workout data. It’s also tough, lightweight and comes with solar-assisted charging.

Price: 14,700 baht / casio.com/th

Japanese eyewear brand Owndays has teamed up with tech giant Huawei to create a nifty pair of smart glasses.

Marrying Owndays’ expertise in opticals with Huawei’s cutting-edge technology, the glasses boast a sleek, minimalist design that not only correct the wearer’s vision but also allows them to listen to music or take calls. The eyewear is designed with built-in directional speakers delivering supreme audio quality and smart touch control to skip tracks, control volume and take calls.

Price: 10,195 baht / owndays.com/th

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DREAM ISLAND

Koh Samui Springs Back to Life

Serene powdery sands, pulsing nightlife and fantastic food are back on the tourism menu – with an upgrade Words & Photos: Loren Infeld & shutterstock

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DREAM ISLAND

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s the world emerges from three years of COVID winter, the tropical holiday island of Koh Samui has blossomed back to life brighter than ever. Koh Samui, one of Thailand’s most beautiful and diverse islands, is a stunning destination for travellers seeking a luxurious and relaxing getaway. From gorgeous beach resorts to adventure sports to world-class restaurants, Koh Samui has something for everyone. Whether you are looking for an active holiday or just want to soak up the sun on an idyllic beach, this island has it all.

Top Fun activities like jet-skiing, jet boots and flyboarding are offered at Chaweng, Lamai, and Lipa Noi beaches Bottom A panoramic view of a palm-fringed beach on Koh Samui Opposite The Big Buddha, one of Koh Samui’s most iconic landmarks

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Although Thai tourism has not yet fully recovered after the blow of pandemic travel restrictions, you wouldn’t know it driving through the lively towns that dot Koh Samui’s coastline or strolling down beach roads filled with exuberant holidaymakers.

“Samui is now back to normal again, with its beautiful beaches and natural attractions,” explains Ratchaporn Poolsawadee, president of the Tourism Association of Koh Samui. “And many new experiences that combine local wisdom and creative products and services await visitors.”

Ratchaporn says that now is the time to be in Koh Samui. Beach resorts, only 20% of which remained open during the dark pandemic days, are back to 80% and many top fivestar hotels are selling out months in advance. Travellers from around the world have dreamed of visiting the idyllic island for the past few years,

and the pent-up demand is obvious with droves of giddy tourists arriving since the beginning of this year.

“I think post-COVID, people want to travel both domestically and internationally and the destination they are thinking of is Samui,” says Bangkok Airways’ Ancillary Product Manager Thanut Na Nakon Chanachon. “We are thankful they are thinking of us after being locked up so long. I can feel people are even more excited than before to travel.”

A visit to the island begins with arrival at Koh Samui Airport,

consistently rated one of the most beautiful airports in the world.

Planes making their final approach are treated to gorgeous ocean views, and once you land, openair carts whisk you to the breezy and simple-to-navigate terminal to collect you bags and make your way out. The airport itself invokes the feeling that you’ve stepped out of the normal world and into tropical vacation mode, a perfect introduction to a perfect holiday island escape.

Walking down Beach Road in Chaweng, the biggest and busiest area on the island, is an experience like no other. Tourists are now flocking back to this iconic bustling street, eager to feast on its banquet of sounds and sights and smells.

Mouth-watering restaurants and street food, spa services, street vendors and shops lure travellers.

Gorgeous resorts line the exquisite powdery sands of Chaweng Beach. As the sun sets, the town pulses with a vibrant nightlife scene ranging from laid-back beach bars to high-energy nightclubs offering live music and DJs all night.

The people of Koh Samui used the pandemic downtime to

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DREAM ISLAND

upgrade. Mainstay businesses got facelifts and redesigns, and new posh clubs and restaurants have modernised venues that were previously basic. Nearly every club on Soi Mango, the island’s main party strip, has been refurbished to fresh, stylish new standards.

The island has evolved into a chic upscale experience, with local Thai flavours influencing fine dining and luxurious accommodations.

“Coming out of COVID, business has been a lot tougher and more competitive compared to prepandemic,” said Lionel Helena, operations director of The Cliff Bar and Grill. Nestled in the picturesque hills leading out of Chaweng Noi, the restaurant belongs to a business group that includes several eateries, as well as The Palms, a nightclub mainstay on Soi Mango.

“The demographic of our clientele has changed, and we also find they are more careful in their spending habits. A slow build-up of an expat community is starting to come back, with a mix of new and old faces.”

Ratchaporn agrees, saying that the tourism association has realised that travellers coming to Koh Samui now aren’t seeking a budget experience but are looking

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Top Kayaking is another fun way to enjoy nature Bottom Chaweng Lake Night Market is a perfect spot to enjoy traditional Thai street food Opposite If scuba diving is not your thing, try snorkelling at Chaweng Beach, Silver Beach, Coral Cove, Taling Ngam, Ao Phang Ka or Choeng Mon

for the best value. Great deals on upscale resorts, amazing meals and experiences are what’s driving people to Samui.

And the growth is infectious!

Most people who visit Samui take the opportunity to island hop, visiting nearby Koh Phangan and Koh Tao. Both are experiencing a renaissance of upgraded tourism.

Koh Tao has long been known for scuba diving and water activities, and was hit hard by

the pandemic shutdown. But the coastline of the tiny island is filled with luxury resorts and awe-inspiring sea-view villas, while the main Sairee Beach has seen its resorts and restaurants with million-dollar sunset views revitalised along the quaint path that runs along the shoreline.

Phangan, once a bastion of thatch huts with flickering electricity, now boasts new highquality beach resorts, as well as

CHAWENG

a wave of luxury pool villas for rent and sale. Home to the worldfamous Full Moon Party, Phangan has been attracting more than just backpackers thanks to wellness offerings of yoga, meditation, retreats, and more, especially in the north of the island.

Gorgeous beaches ring the island – with some like Koh Raham and Koh Ma seeming like they were designed for Instagram selfies. They enclose a lush core of

greenery, creating an atmosphere that invites oneness with nature.

Speaking of greenery, returning visitors may be surprised by the massive shift in the country’s attitude towards marijuana.

Cannabis was decriminalised about a year ago, and entrepreneurs have been quick to set up smoking shops all over the islands. There is some controversy over the herb’s future in Thailand, but medical and cannabisrelated tourism has boomed!

Chaweng Beach road greets you with a crescendo of sounds and sights and smells pulling you in every direction. Street vendors sell crafts, artwork, beachwear, and more. The aromas of delicious Thai street food waft through the air, and spa services, from relaxing massages to rejuvenating facials await.

If the taxis shuttling tourists are a bit overwhelming, take a stroll along the beach instead. The crystal-clear waters gently lap along the exquisite powdery sands of Chaweng Beach.

Beachfront restaurants and bars offer sun loungers and umbrellas for their customers to enjoy.

As the sun sets, Chaweng ups the pace with a vibrant nightlife. Everything from laid-back beach bars to high-energy nightclubs offer live music, DJs, dancing, and entertainment, ensuring there’s something for everyone.

LAMAI Sprawling along the eastern coast of Koh Samui, Lamai is the mellow sister of urban Chaweng. Lamai Beach is a stunning expanse of golden sand that stretches for over four kilometres. The beach is tranquil and peaceful, with clear turquoise waters lapping the shore. The sand is soft and powdery, making it perfect for sunbathing or a relaxing walk.

Visitors can take a stroll down the beach and explore the various shops, cafés, and restaurants lining the shore. Street food vendors offer a wide range of delicious local cuisine, and the restaurants serve a mix of Thai and international dishes.

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SOUL FOOD

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Words & Photos Sirin P. Wongpanit

Following the Trail of Flavours in the

South Your guide to the myriad tastes and textures of Thailand’s culinary melting pot

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lanked by two coastlines, the long and narrow stretch of land Thais refer to as the “axe handle of Siam” is otherwise known as the South of Thailand, where foodies savour fresh, albeit deliciously strong and pungent flavours.

Summarising a cuisine so vast and complex as southern Thailand’s is not an easy task, but it can be managed with a touch of imagination, a collection of memories and Google Maps.

Let’s start with the map. Officially, the South of Thailand starts as soon as you enter the province of Chumphon after passing through Prachuap Khiri Khan. From here, the southern part of the country stretches all the way to Yala’s Betong district. This region covers 14 provinces, spread over 70,000 square kilometres. Driving from Bangkok to the southernmost tip of Yala, barring traffic jams, takes about 15 hours and covers about 1,200 kilometres of road.

Left Nam Phrik Goong Siap or a southern Thai chilli dip made with dry shrimp with a fierce and bold flavour

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SOUL FOOD

Top Right Amnat Chotchuang, owner of Sabienglae Restaurant in Samui Middle Different kinds of vegetables to go with spicy southern dishes Below The 14 Southern provinces of Thailand begin with Chumphon

Getting the bearings right is important for me, while maps fire my imagination and get me wondering what people do in these places. What is the culture, the traditions – and what’s for lunch?

Southern Thailand is a rich melting pot. People from around the world arrived here long before the mining heyday of King Rama V’s reign. Merchants and seafarers from around the globe came to trade, settle, and infuse the local cuisine with their own flavours.

This is how the repertoire of southern cuisine that we have come to know and love was created.

Chillies, pungent ingredients and strong herbs are what comes to mind when I reflect on my own journey through southern cuisine.

Fiery curries that are consumed all day, even at breakfast, dominate the scene. The fish cakes, the fried chicken, the ultra-spicy, sour curries (think gaeng som) are just some of the classics southern folk use to measure a cook’s ability.

Then comes the long list of “fresh desserts” that Phuket people eat for breakfast along with a hearty plate of savoury delights.

While outsiders might identify southern cuisine as a single collection of dishes, the natives are far more discerning.

“Even the same curries taste different from one province to the next,” says Amnat Chotchuang, a Koh Samui native and owner of Sabienglae Restaurant in Lamai, Samui. “And the two coastlines, one along the Gulf of Thailand and

A Typical Day Eating in the South

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Breakfast • Khanom cheen or curried noodles with all the trimmings, plus fried chicken, steamed fish cake, or “hor mok” (steamed fish souffle)

• Hit the local markets for more breakfast options.

If you’re in Phuket, try the “fresh sweets” or “khanom sod”, and pa thong go (fried dough) with kaya or coconut custard. For something heartier, go for the fresh fried roti or mataba.

• In Phuket, Trang and Hat Yai, dim sum is also a popular choice for breakfast.

Top Right Paradise for foodies on Lat Yai walking street in the heart of Phuket Old Town Middle Fried fish goes well with most fiery southern dishes Bottom, Left to Right Sago pudding with coconut milk Spicy stir fry of stinky beans and shrimps

Lunch • In Samui, try out their spicy salad made with fresh sea urchin (hoy men) and oyster (hoy jor). Another unique dish is “muk sai or wai tom kathi” or baby squid with long, slender tentacles cooked in coconut milk. Another must-try is the “moo khua khoey”, or pork belly toasted with shrimp paste and local herbs.

Dinner • When in Phuket, treat yourself to a Peranakan feast. Popular choices are “moo hong” (pork stew) and “gaeng tu mee” or fish curry with okra. You can also try Hokkien noodles, “loba” or stewed pork entrails and local spring rolls.

• Visit the coast anywhere in Thailand and you are bound to find seafood galore. Fresh is always the best. In Chumphon local fisher folk set up shop on the shore selling the freshest grilled squid I have ever eaten. In Phuket, hit Rawai Beach for freshly cooked seafood at any of the casual seaside eateries.

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CHINATOWN

THE RE Old B Words Khetsirin Pholdhampalit & Pinanong Panchuen Photos Bobby Heng

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Song Wat has transformed into the city’s hippest neighbourhood, with cafés, restaurants and art spaces lighting up its century-old shophouses

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CHINATOWN

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f Yaowarat (Bangkok’s Chinatown) is a wild buffet bustling with tourists, nearby Song Wat is afternoon tea – a place to savour the heritage of bygone days with contemporary flavours. ​Song Wat Road runs for one kilometre parallel to Yaowarat Road along the Chao Phraya River. Its name means “drawn by the King”, after King Rama V, who initiated the road’s construction by drawing a line on the map. Over a century ago, this area was a bustling business hub and melting pot of Buddhist temples, mosques, and Chinese shrines where the residents of different faiths lived peacefully.

The Art of Song Wat

Top Right & Below Young entrepreneurs gather to discuss new projects regenerating Song Wat Anti-Clockwise from Top Left Play Art House gallery Kiattiwat Srichanwanpen, Song Wat resident and owner of Play Art House Artist Warunyoo Somboon evokes the multicultural life of Song Wat in his paintings ‘Wat Pathum Khongkha’, ‘Pun Tao Kong Shrine’ and ‘Masjid Luang Kocha Itsahak’

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Daily life on Song Wat is beautifully captured in three paintings – “Wat Pathum Khongkha Ratchaworawihan temple”, “Lao Pun Tao Kong shrine” and “Masjid Luang Kocha Itsahak mosque” – by 25-year-old newwave artist Warunyoo Somboon.

Warunyoo’s art recently starred in a showcase featuring stories of the local community at Song Wat’s gallery, Play Art House. The bustling local art scene also decorates recently opened restaurants and cafés in the area, such as Arteasia Tart Bar and Hor Fun, a fusion eatery with signature ribbon-noodle dishes.

Kiattiwat Srichanwanpen, a Song Wat resident, transformed his family’s shoe warehouse into the lively art gallery in 2020. He is one of a bunch of young entrepreneurs

leading the rebirth of Song Wat and neighbouring Phat Sai Road through creative activities such as “Made in Song Wat”. The event allows the public to discover hidden gems in the area and will soon offer a guidebook for both local and international tourists.

Song Wat’s name means ‘drawn by the King’, after King Rama V, who initiated the road’s construction by drawing a line on the map.

Legendary Street Food

To enjoy Song Wat’s street food, we recommend starting at the parking lot on Song Sawat Road, famed for its graffiti mural of two giant elephants. An alley next to the lot is home to Lim Lao Sa noodle shop and its legendary “bouncy” fish balls.

The balls are made of 100% fish, pounded and kneaded until it has a smooth and bouncy texture. Lim Lao Sa has been operating for over 80 years and is open daily from 3pm to 9pm. But be sure to come early as it often sells out by early evening.

​Head towards Ratchawong Road for your next stop: the latest branch of Gu Long Bao whose Teochew-style steamed buns are a family recipe passed down five generations. The 5th-generation owner has opened the new youthful-looking branch at the entrance of Luang Kocha Itsahak Mosque, a European-style mosque unique in Thailand.

Unlike the Cantonese-style fluffy texture, Gu Long Bao’s steamed buns are chewier, as sweet potato is added to the flour.

The hand-made buns have fillings including minced pork with salted egg, bean and sesame, mashed taro, and a plant-based option. ​Another local culinary legend is Urai Han Pa Lo, where braised goose in sumptuous dark brown broth has been delighting diners for 50 years. Demand is high, so be there before noon to savour the succulent aromatic meat at one of

Clockwise from Top Left A narrow offshoot of Song Wat is flanked by busy businesses The Lim Lao Sa noodle stall is famous for its ‘bouncy’ fish balls

the best Chinese goose restaurants in Bangkok. ​At the streetcorner joining Song Wat and Ratchawong Road stands a legacy building called Tuek Khaek, where Indian merchant Abdul Tyeb Maskati imported textiles during the reign of King Rama V. Opposite Tuek Khaek is Ar Liang Khanom Jeeb, serving delectable Chinese steamed dumplings stuffed with minced pork and water chestnut.

The yummy taste comes with a pocket-friendly price tag, making it a favourite place with locals.

A mural depicting Thai delicacies near the entrance of the Luang Kocha Itsahak Mosque Gu Long Bao serves up steaming Teochew-style buns at the entrance to Luang Kocha Itsahak Mosque

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CHINATOWN Bygone Charms, Modern Attractions

Over a century ago, the riverside Song Wat was Siam’s bustling hub for import and export of agricultural produce, particularly herbs and spices. The nearby Ratchawong pier served as a gateway for international trade and was crowded with steamboats.

The shophouses of Song Wat were originally built to serve as offices and warehouses for agricultural produce.

Their distinctive blend of Chinese and Western architecture can be seen in the stucco fruitand-flower motifs and Corinthian pillars over the window frames – a reminder of the area’s glory days as the country’s gateway for international commerce.

Clockwise from Top Right The gallery-like FV Café serves up creative and healthy drinks made from unusual plants The newly repainted Luang Kocha Itsahak mosque Many local shophouses remain unchanged since King Rama V’s reign over a century ago Charms of a bygone era captured near the Sampheng area

The charm of the old buildings is now attracting a new generation of young entrepreneurs, who are rapidly transforming Song Wat into a hipster haunt. The area is brimming with trendy restaurants, cafés, galleries, and hostels taking advantage of mass transit and a prime central Bangkok location neighbouring Sampheng (Bangkok’s biggest wholesale market) and Chinatown.

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Fresh Chapter from New Generation

FV café is pioneering a fascinating and surprisingly delicious idea – making healthy refreshments from unusual fruits and vegetables including weeds.

Maiyarap (Sensitive plant), for example, is used to brew tea. Other tongue-teasers to try include the red tamarind juice and zedoary shot with Thai-style snacks such as dok lum duan (Thai shortbread

cookies) and sam pan nee (mixed flour and coconut). FV’s interior resembles a cosy art gallery, with stylings courtesy of its owner Opas Chankam, the founder of OBK Design Studio in the UK. ​A step away is Thai restaurant E-ga, where top ingredients are gathered from around the country for home-style dishes such as Gaeng Pa (hot and spicy soup), Gaeng Tai Pla (hot curry with fermented fish innards), Massaman curry, and grilled river prawns. The restaurant is under the umbrella of It’s Happened to be A Closet,

the brainchild of fashion designer Siriwan Tharananithikul, so its stylish vibes come as no surprise. ​Adjacent is a beef lovers’ paradise. Though noodle shop Rongklannuer only opened last December, it has quickly become a foodie magnet thanks to its braised tender beef and aromatic herbal broth. Next door is Arteasia Tart Bar, which delivers Thai-style savoury treats and desserts in the form of creative tarts dreamed up by owner Ornong Prasarnphanich.

Try the Two-Faced Mango, which combines the flavours of raw

The charm of the old buildings is now attracting a new generation of young entrepreneurs, who are rapidly transforming Song Wat into a hipster haunt.

Clockwise from Top Left Sweet treats at the Arteasia Tart Bar Located on the second floor, Arteasia Tart Bar overlooks the famous fruit stuccos adorning the buildings opposite Enjoy a steaming bowl of beef noodles at Rongklannuer Arteasia Tart Bar showcases a set of uniquely Thai desserts E-ga, a stylish Thai restaurant

mango dipped in chili and salt and mango sticky rice, or Going Banana, a modern take on banana in coconut cream. ​With bellies full, it could be time to feast on art. Spanish graphic designer Myriam Rueda fell in love with the charm of Song Wat and decided to open Mesa 312 Cultural Lab, which offers painting and photo workshops as well as Spanish language lessons.

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KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

Into the Andaman

Dive in and forget the stress as the vast ocean embraces you with its mysterious blue charms. You may be amazed at the recovery of underwater life while exploring diving spots in Phuket, including the Anemone Reef, Koh Racha Yai, King Cruiser Wreck, Koh Dok Mai, Shark Point, or as far as Koh Phi Phi.

BANGKOK 58 / SAMUI 61 / PHUKET 66 / CHIANG MAI, PATTAYA & TRAT 69 / PHNOM PENH 70 / SIEM REAP 71 / LUANG PRABANG 72 / SINGAPORE 73

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HAPPENINGS THAILAND

SPOTLIGHT

Secret Behind the Curtain

LOVE VIBE

The Art Gallery is hosting JonOne’s “Thaï Love” exhibition. A contemporary of Jean Michel Basquiat and Andy Warhol, JonOne or John Perello burst onto the art scene with colourful paintings inspired by his Dominican roots and masters like Kandinsky and Jackson Pollock. JonOne’s signature explosions of vibrant colours have earned him collaborations with global companies as well as exhibitions in galleries from Tokyo to Brussels.

Until June 26 (free entry), The Art Gallery, 3/F Rosewood Bangkok 1041/38 Ploenchit Road, Lumphini, rosewoodhotels. com/en/Bangkok

FAIRIES’ WONDERLAND

Come for the enchanting artistry and stay for the nectar served at the bar. Nightlife pixies will be delighted by the reopening of The Iron Fairies, the whimsical haven that has bewitched Bangkok’s after-dark bar scene for years. The bar has flitted to a new location in the heart of Phrom Phong but retained its magical décor and enchanting ambience. Nothing competes with the immersive punkwonderland of Iron Fairies.

Open daily 6pm-2am, Opera Complex Sukhumvit 39, +66 (0) 63 901 1115, facebook.com/ ironfairiesbkk

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Hidden on the ground floor of Mia restaurant, Behind the Curtain brings an intimate new twist to the cocktail bar scene. Each night, a party of six people is invited to explore the bijou and boozy experience of unconventional desserts paired with playful cocktails courtesy of renowned pastry chef Michelle Goh and skilled bar manager Marc Perez Rodriguez. For a special treat, try the unique omakase dessert and cocktail pairing menu: five desserts and five cocktails showcasing a skilful blend of Mediterranean and Asian flavours.

The Omakase Dessert and Cocktail Pairing experience is available on Thursday, Friday and Saturday 6pm-9pm (booking is required). Open Tuesday-Sunday 5pm-midnight, 30 Attha Kawi 1, +66 (0) 98 862 9659, reservation@miarestaurantbkk.com

BANGKOK

GET TO KNOW US

Is it a fine restaurant, a mysterious theatre, or a sophisticated cocktail bar? The answer may be all three. From the creative spirit behind Messengerservice Bar comes Bar Us, a drinking room inspired by ingredients from local farms. The mixologists experiment with each local ingredient’s unique charm and flavour before pairing them with exotic spirits, giving birth to one-of-a-kind cocktails.

Like a fine-dining experience, the cocktail menu is divided into three parts: Starter, Main, and After. However, there are no rules here. Sensation seekers can begin with any menu or go for al a carte classic options. All to get to know US a little better. Open Tuesday-Saturday 6pm-midnight, Sukhumvit 26, +66 (0) 89 500 1656, us-bar.com

CHILLIN’ AT A FRIEND’S

Photos: Varinthorn Pormajanya, Yoko Sakamoto

The historic neighbourhood of Talat Noi never runs out of up-and-coming bars. Just last December it welcomed a new addition to the area, Very Nice Bar – a cosy, minimalist hideaway tucked away on the bustling street. The idea came from a group of friends with a passion for music and design reflected in the artworks hanging on the walls of the bar.

Chilling at this place feels like hanging out at a friend’s, with soft music in the background to allow joyous conversations while munching on comfort food and sipping old favourites like highballs and draught beer. Open Tuesday-Sunday 6pm-11.30pm, 763 Charoen Krung Road Talat Noi, +66 (0) 93 320 9231, instagram.com/verynicebar

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HAPPENINGS THAILAND

LUCKY SWEETS

Bangkok’s Chinatown never runs out of fresh takes on scrumptious flavours. Lucky Ngou, the new kid on the block, adds a sweet and refreshing touch to the century-old street.

Housed in an antique Chinese-style shophouse, this gelato place is famous for homemade ice-cream flavours with succulent sauces and toppings like Black Sesame Soybean Milk and Caramel Hojicha Tea. To combat the steamy summer heat, Lucky Ngou also turns to family recipes for unique Thai-Chinese beverages such as rich honey chrysanthemum juice with konjac, the honey lemon plum juice, and lemon pomegranate. Open Tuesday-Friday 2pm-10pm, Saturday-Sunday 12-10pm, 84 Phat Sai Rd, Samphanthawong, +66 (0) 93 926 5926

CRAFTSMAN’S NEW HOUSE

This is not the first time Craftsman Roastery & Brew Bar has taken over an old building. In 2018, the team opened a café inside the neo-Renaissance mansion of Corrado Feroci, better known as Thailand’s father of modern art Silpa Bhirasri.

After three years there, the roastery moved to the landmark Bumrungnukulkit Printing House on Bamrung Mueang Road.

Once this rental contract was up, Craftsman Roastery’s owner Netnapa “Waew” Narathatsachan discovered a new vintage venue – a 300sqm shophouse in Sathupradit 20. This venue was soon given an industrial-chic vibe and turned into a brew bar complete with a café, in-house roastery and kitchen.

Highlights are unmissable fresh roasts like Mocha Yuzu, Dirty, plus newly invented drinks like Samui Holiday, Shakerato, and Cold Brew Jofrisch. Snacks to savour include walnut, creamy chicken or mini green curry beef pies or the very naughty Earl Grey Caramel cake. Looking for something substantial? Go for the Roti with Australian Beef Curry or Duck Confit with Pineapple Curry Sauce served with Rice. Open Monday to Friday: 7am to 6pm; Saturday, Sunday and holidays: 8.30am to 6pm, +66 (0) 85 820 4010, www.facebook.com/craftsmanroastery

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BANGKOK

SPOTLIGHT

Lanna with a Twist When you are in Bangkok and craving a bowl of authentic Khao Soi, there’s no better place to head than North on Sukhumvit 33 for a Lanna-flavoured gastronomical adventure.

The restaurant, located in a colonial-style house, offers views of a lush green garden and touches of beautiful Lanna heritage.

At first, North only served an eight-course tasting menu for 2,888++ baht/pax, but with Bangkokians demanding far more, the restaurant began offering à la carte lunch. And on this menu is the restaurant owner’s secret family recipe for Khao Soi from Lampang.

To prime your palate, choose from a plate of Northern Hors d’oeuvres, Santol, or Pomelo Salad.

Now you should be ready to try Khantoke, or a northern-style plate of five different offerings – Hang Lay Curry (pork or beef), Galangal Chilli Paste with Steamed Vegetables, Sour Fish Curry and sautéed vegetables, Thai Spicy Sausage, and Pork Crackling, all served with sticky or steamed rice.

If you’re a fan of Khao Soi, you have a choice of organic chicken, crabmeat (limited to 14 servings daily), Kurobuta Chashu pork, beef shank, Wagyu beef, or Dry Khao Soi with River Prawn. Open daily, à la carte lunch is served from 11.30am to 2.30pm and dinner (8-Course Tasting Menu) from 6pm-11pm, +66 (0) 61 426 2642, www.north-restaurant.com

THAILAND

SAMUI

PARADISE IS A FARM

Spend the day immersed in nature at Paradise Park Farm.

Nestled on the hillside of Khao Pom, Samui’s highest mountain, the farm boasts a panoramic view of the coastline, making it one of the best viewpoints on the island. What makes this place adult-friendly is the infinity pool with jacuzzi and pool bar.

Children and adults alike are also treated with beautiful gardens where you can encounter anything from exotic birds, peacocks, emus and dear to rabbits, sheep, goats and more. Work up an appetite on the farm, then head to the onsite restaurant for a feed. +66 (0) 81 255 1222, www.facebook.com/paradiseparkfarm

SPOTLIGHT

Savoury Delights on Lamai Beach SALT, a new boutique eatery on a peaceful stretch of Lamai Beach Road, infuses a welcoming atmosphere with a touch of sophistication.

Created by BR Munns International, which brought The Cliff Bar & Grill and Bondi Restaurant to Koh Samui, SALT offers casual luxury at surprisingly low prices.

Executive Chef Kwang Apinya crafts traditional Thai dishes with a unique twist while Head Chef Micaela Markides brings

SAMUI SEAFOOD LEGEND

cosmopolitan flavours from her time working aboard yachts.

The menu offers a global voyage, ranging from Japanese sushi and Italian pasta to gourmet American burgers and Mexican tacos. The Thai menu, meanwhile, includes favourites like Tom Kha and Khao Soi, while barbecue options include Portuguese Peri Peri chicken, Espetada steak and grilled fish topped with an exquisite Peruvian salsa. Also starring are gargantuan and delicious king and tiger prawns, as well as sides like Greek salad and Spanish rice.

SALT is perfect for families or groups and has something for everyone. +66 (0) 93 787 5546, www.saltsamui.com

Craving authentic tastes served with a gorgeous vista? Saunter over to Sabienglae Restaurant for time-tested seafood staples that have been praised by gourmets for the past 18 years.

For a dynamite taste experience, try their celebrated dishes like Sabienglae Signature Spicy Salad, Steamed White Snapper with Lime & Chilli, Deep-fried Sandy Fish with Turmeric, Oysters, and Thai Curry with Grilled Fish.

After its first branch at Lamai Beach met with approval from local and international foodies, Sabienglae has now expanded to Bang Rak Beach, sharing its seafood-packed delights with an even larger gourmet audience. +66 (0) 61 239 4195, www.instagram.com/sabienglae_samui

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HAPPENINGS THAILAND

SPOTLIGHT

Seafood with a View

Fancy a spectacular view with your dinner?

Head to The Roof Samui, a hilltop restaurant where local and international classics are served with a side of stunning Samui seascape. The menu packs a boatload of seafood options, with a whole page dedicated to lobster creations – highlighted by the crustacean wrapped in a blanket of gooey cheese. Fans of fiery flavours will get a kick out of Southern Thai dishes like Gaeng Som (sour curry), Khua Kling (dry curry with minced pork), Phad Kapi Sataw Goong (prawns and stink beans stir-fried with shrimp paste) and Bai Liang Phad Khai (stir-fried malindjo leaves with eggs).

Don’t miss their cocktail classics with moreish twists. +66 (0) 65 547 8898, www.facebook.com/theroofsamui

SOUTHERN THAI CUISINE AT ITS FINEST

When it comes to Southern Thai cuisine served in a refined setting, Long Dtai — Southern Thai Authentic Fine Dining ticks every box. This seaside establishment in Koh Samui’s Cape Fahn Hotel is a collaboration between Cape & Kantary Hotels and renowned Australian chef, David Thompson. The culinary genius behind Michelinstarred Nahm and Aksorn, Chef Thompson has shipped his prowess to Samui, working his magic on time-tested Southern seafood delicacies as well as restoring many forgotten recipes. He also promotes sustainability by sourcing from local fishermen. Nestled in the embrace of a private island just off Koh Samui, this hotel serves up privacy with five-star flavours. +66 (0) 77 602 301, www.instagram.com/longdtai

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YACHTING FUN WITH YOUR LOVED ONES

Admire the azure Gulf of Thailand from a private yacht, Boutique Yachting offers cruises around Koh Samui on the Naga – a luxurious Turkish “gulet” with a beautiful vintage design and modern amenities.

Featuring a sun deck, sky lounge, dressing room, toilet and shower, the Naga is a prefect vessel to explore Samui, and bring your tropical sailing dreams to life. +66 (0) 65 420 7999, boutiqueyachting.com

SAMUI

A CAFFEINE SHOT WITH ‘VITAMIN SEA’

Coffee lovers get an extra shot of “vitamin sea” as they enjoy caffeine-loaded beverages at the seaside Rice x De Pier Samui. Alongside the coffee selection is a menu of local and international classics including Phad Thai and Eggs Benedict. Or cool down with a Sauvignon Blanc, rosé or crisp cold beer. +66 (0) 77 430 680, www.facebook.com/ricexdepier

CRAVE-WORTHY WHOLESOME BITES

Copper brings a golden glow to Koh Samui’s Bophut area, serving healthy, fresh Thai and Western classics made with locally grown produce and imported delicacies. The menu has a springtime feel with each dish loaded with fresh greens. Vegan and vegetarian dishes are a speciality while health-conscious omnivores can graze on rainbow-shaded quinoa bowls topped with grilled salmon, shrimp, sashimi or cooked chicken. Familiar breakfast-brunch favourites include Avocado & Eggs on Toast, Eggs Benedict, Cereal Bowls and Quiche Lorraine.

Feeling naughty? Stop by the pastry and dessert section for sweet seduction. +66 (0) 61 426 8788, www.copperkohsamui.com SPOTLIGHT

Oasis of Zen in Samui

DON’T FEAR SHRIMP PASTE AND STINKY BEANS

Nothing says “I love you” to an aching body like a good spa. A fine place to experience one is at Tamarind Springs Forest Spa located just a stone’s throw from Lamai Beach. Situated inside a forest, this spa offers a variety of treatments, ranging from Thai Yoga Massage and Hot and Cold Stone Massage to Lymphatic Drainage, to carve out a spa experience that your body will enjoy. If you’re after a oneof-a-kind experience, then go for a herbal steam treatment inside a cave. If one day is not enough, you can spend a few days relaxing and rejuvenating in their Zen-inducing homestays. +66 (0) 80 569 6654, www.tamarindsprings.com/en

Photo: Tamarind Springs Forest Spa

No trip to Samui is complete without trying a dish flavoured with shrimp paste or studded with stinky beans. For a true taste of the South’s fiery cuisine, head to Kapi Sator Samui.

Our top five favourites on the menu are Phad Kapi Sataw Goong (prawns stir-fried with shrimp paste and stinky beans), Moo Khua Khoei (pork stir-fried with shrimp paste), Wai Khua (octopus in coconut milk), Gaeng Som Pla Gao (sour curry with grouper) and Spicy Crab Egg Salad. +66 (0) 98 799 8007, www.facebook.com/storkapi.samui

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HAPPENINGS THAILAND

SUNSET, SUNDOWNER AND WOOD-FIRED PIZZA

The SEA SUN Samui seafront café, bar and restaurant offers a seascape to melt the heart, along with coffee, cocktails and delicious food to fortify the belly. Highlights on the menu are the wood-fired pizzas, Seafood Spaghetti Marinara, Roasted Chicken Breast served on a bed of pureed potatoes, Gaeng Pu Khanom Cheen, and Extreme Chocolate Waffle. SEA SUN Samui is the perfect spot to watch the sun go down with a sundowner in hand and your order on the grill. +66 (0) 77 423 641, www.instagram.com/seasun.samui SPOTLIGHT

All the Seafood You Want and More

The Moonrise Beach Bar & Seafood Koh Samui comes with an ocean-fresh catch. Part-bar, part-restaurant, it serves up an impressive array of seafood dishes prepared by various cooking methods – think frying, grilling, sautéing and boiling. Order the Gaeng Pu Bai Chaphlu (crab curry with betel leaves) for creamy goodness or Pla Muek Phad Khai Khem (squid stir-fried with salted eggs) for a rich, salty hit of preserved egg. If you’re looking for something that packs a punch, try the flavour-filled Hor Mok Thalay (seafood curry souffle) or Fish with Soya Ginger Sauce. But the show-stealer here is the Seafood Bucket. It comes in different sizes from medium to extra-large – perfect for those who want to eat seafood until the moon goes down. +66 (0) 88 857 5563, www.facebook.com/moonrisekohsamui

GOING APE FOR BRUNCH

The beachside 4Monkeys Coffee & Bar – New Gen is a perfect spot to unwind and soak in the sun, sand and waves. Serious attention paid to the quality of coffee extends to the delicious brunch offerings, both sweet and savoury.

Stop by for breakfast, lunch or dinner and feast on their fiery Thai fare or comforting international classics. Alternatively, you can cool down with a tasty sundae or refreshing sangria after a long stroll along the beach. +66 (0) 94 746 4878, www.instagram.com/4monkeys_newgen

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SAMUI

SAMUI RAINFOREST ADVENTURE

Why hike when you can fly? For a day, you can hover high above Koh Samui’s evergreen jungle at Tree Bridge Zipline Samui. The zipline comprises eight cables that span 1,200 metres, allowing the adventurer in you to explore a large area of the forest without setting a foot on the ground. Apart from the adrenaline rush, Tree Bridge Zipline Samui also offers a waterfall and café stop as part of your zipline package +66 (0) 81 113 4499, www.treebridgezipline.com

SPOTLIGHT

A Slice of Italy in Samui Take a shortcut to the Mediterranean Sea at Salefino Koh Samui, where you can feast on fine Italian fare cooked with grade-A ingredients imported from Italy, including sardines, Goro mussels, caviar, artichokes, white asparagus, and more.

Dishes like Red Tuna Tartare, Ricotta and Truffle Ravioli and Basil Walnut Pesto Lasagna will please the palate of gourmets, while the picturesque vista serves as an ideal spot for lovebirds. +66 (0) 91 825 2190, www.salefinosamui.com 65

HAPPENINGS THAILAND

SPOTLIGHT

Cuban Connection

Overlooking the sea just south of Kamala Beach on Phuket’s idyllic west coast, Casa Boho wraps guests in Latin luxury. The uber-stylish eatery and cocktail bar offers a swirling blend of LatinAmerican flavours and an airy tropical style, set against a Thai tapestry.

Its Colombian chef has crafted a masterpiece of a menu starring blackened salmon with papaya mojo, guacamole and tacos de birria with succulent angus beef braised for three days, and Oaxacan cheese from Mexico.

Casa Boho is not an eat-and-run type of place, as evidenced in the intriguing cocktail menu.

While you will find classic favourites like pisco sours and white sangria, this is the place to be daring and branch out with a chicano de pisco made with saffron-infused pisco, lime, ginger beer, and chocolate bitters, or a maid in Cuba created with light rum, cucumber, mint, lime, sugar, soda, and absinthe. Open 12pm-10pm, +66 (0) 76 231 234, www.casabohophuket.com

, SHOOT EM UP FOR REAL

You peek around the corner with your heart thumping. Was that a shadow playing tricks with your mind, or the enemy lying in wait? As you round the corner you spot the muzzle of a gun. It’s too late, you’ve just been shot... by your 10-year-old kid... but it’s only laser tag!

Battlefield Phuket is the perfect place to bring gaming fantasies to life. A fun activity for ages six and up, the venue has room for plenty of players.

Choose from an entire arsenal of weapons, from sniper rifles and machine guns to mines and grenades.

They offer 12 popular game modes to choose from plus more than 250 others available on request. +66 (0) 96 634 5895, battlefield-phuket.com

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PHUKET

ALL SMOKE, NO SECRETS

They don’t mince words with the name of this restaurant, nor with their slogan, “real food for real people”. It’s no marketing gimmick. The food is made with real fire and real smoke and if you’re a real person, you’re going to really like this place.

This fairly recent addition to Choeng Thale’s foodscape is housed in a brand new industrial-chic style building all on its own. The ambiance is a perfect fit for the flavours and they also have car parking, a valuable feature in burgeoning Phuket.

So, what’s sizzling on the grill nestled in the smoker?

How about 400-gram Australian tenderloin, filet mignon with Bearnaise sauce and truffle Espagnole, or Swedish meatballs with lingonberry jam? Ever tried beer-can chicken? It turns out that grilling a chicken stuffed with an open can of beer makes for some of the juiciest and flavourful meat imaginable!

Fire and Smoke is open Tuesday - Sunday: 5pm-11.59pm, +66 (0) 98 062 4000, fireandsmokephuket.com

CREATIVE COFFEE AND BRUNCH

Sure, you can get a cup of coffee at the gas station, but it’s going to be a far cry from the liquid black gold served at the surf-themed Kanin Coffee. With a daily selection of dark and medium blends as well as single-origin options, even a basic Americano or latte is a pleasure.

Even more intriguing are some of speciality drinks on offer such as the vibrant beetroot latte, coco einspanner (hot espresso topped with cool whipped cream) spiked with palm sugar, special cream, and toasted coconut, and the surprisingly delicious pomelo sunset – espresso, orange zest, and a splash of pomelo juice.

Come to this cool Choeng Thale shop for the coffee and stay for the all-day brunch. The unique drinks are partnered with creative eats like the scamp jumbo shrimp croissant with scrambled egg, beetroot hummus, grilled asparagus, and scampi shrimp. Sourdough fan? Try the classic prosciutto toast with grilled asparagus, poached egg, and parmigiano cheese.

Open daily: 8am-6pm, +66 (0) 96 774 7309, www.facebook.com/kanincafe

COCONUT PICKLEBALL

The Coconut Pickleball Center is located at the Coconut Tennis Academy on the Prince of Songkla University campus in Kathu. What in the world is pickleball, you ask? Don’t be misled, there are no actual pickles involved. Pickleball is a fairly new sport that has become wildly popular over the past few years. The most accurate description of this sport is pingpong meets tennis meets badminton.

The appeal of pickleball isn’t in its originality, but its accessibility. The equipment is cheap, the rules are simple, and it’s fairly easy to play. You can play one-on-one or doubles and nearly all ages and fitness levels can participate – no need for years of lessons like tennis. The Coconut Pickleball Center has comfy facilities and all the equipment you’ll need. Advance booking is recommended via their Facebook page or by email. coconuttennisacademy@gmail.com, Sport Complex Prince of Songkhla University Campus, 80 Vichit Songkhram Rd, Kathu, Phuket, +66 (0) 86 300 9718, www.facebook.com/Coconuttennisacademy

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HAPPENINGS THAILAND

PHUKET

DOOR TO UNDERWATER PARADISE

There’s no doubt that Phuket has a lot to offer on land. Visitors can find some of the best food, luxurious spas, world-class shopping, and a whole lot more. While most are perfectly content with that, many have realised an entire alternative realm of wonder lies just beneath the surface of the water. A great way to access this paradise is by scuba diving and a great way to learn scuba is at Local Dive Thailand.

Conveniently located in the heart of Rawai, Local Dive offers up-to-date facilities and international instructors. A whole raft of PADI courses are available, from intro to scuba, to open water, to dive master certifications. The centre has an onsite training pool and a purpose-built boat running trips to the best dive locations in the region every day, with longer-duration liveaboard holidays available as well. +66 (0) 76 384 285, www.localdivethailand.com

FINEST AUSTRALIAN FLAVOURS

With Chef Oat (Nattaphon Othanawathakij) at the helm, this Phuket Town eatery dips a toe in upscale cuisine while keeping one foot planted in honest, strong flavours. Chef Oat’s resume includes a decade in Melbourne catering for Australia’s most prestigious events and working in some of the world’s top-rated restaurants. Oh, and he also won the Iron Chef Thailand. Now, he’s got his own gig in Phuket, a wise choice seeing it’s one of the hottest culinary spots on earth.

HEH proclaims it is “bringing Melbourne to the Andaman”, so don’t be surprised to find plenty of fresh seafood on the menu. The theme is minimalist with flair. Think thinly sliced giant trevally with tomato consommé, rock lobster, tangy yuzu beurre blanc, and a mulberry tart or sticky date pudding to round things off. Reservation recommended.

Open daily (except Tuesdays) from 5pm till late, +66 (0) 82 619 0527, hehphuket.com

DESERT ISLAND

This tiny little island called Koh Kaeo is situated just a kilometre from one of Phuket’s top destinations, Laem Phromthep. However, with its unspoiled beach, dazzling corals, and picturesque small temple, you might as well be a world away. You’re forgiven for not having heard of this 700-metre-long islet, as it’s not exactly listed in tour brochures. You’ll find no 7-Elevens here, or much of anything really, but that’s kind of the point. While it is accessible by adventurous kayakers or paddleboarders from Ya Nui Beach, they should be very careful with the weather and tidal currents.

Fortunately, longtail boats can be hired on Rawai Beach for the short trip. Plan ahead, pack a picnic, bring a snorkel and mask, and make a chill afternoon of it.

Map for 7.746688, 98.301896

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PARTY WITH A HEART

Even better than having a good time is having a good time for a good cause. On Saturday, May 20, come enjoy a special night out filled with great food and drink, live bands, and a silent auction, all in the name of philanthropy.

This annual event, held at the Angsana ACES and hosted by the Phuket Hotels Association (PHA), was established with the goal of raising funds to finance 20 hospitality scholarships and traineeships to benefit Phuket students. Recipients are promising young adults who would otherwise not get this opportunity. The goal is to raise 4 million baht.

The masquerade-themed event will include live music, a Thai and international menu planned by talented chefs of member hotels, as well as spectacular cocktails by the island’s top mixologists. +66 (0) 76 609 258

THAILAND SPOTLIGHT

SUP into the Sunset

CHIANG MAI / PATTAYA / TRAT

Summer Sup Beach Bar could well be the best spot for sunset on Koh Chang’s longest beach, Khlong Phrao.

Highly recommended activities during high season (November to April) include stand-up paddle boarding (SUP) and kayaking. Or you can just lounge on the beach with a Mojito Passion, savouring the tang of freshly squeezed passion fruit with a tangerine sky at sundown. Other options to light up your evening include a Mai Tai, the bar’s

most popular drink. It’s snacks and drinks only at this place, but visitors can get a taste of local dishes at the restaurant nearby.

SUP Beach Bar’s water activities are also available from May to October, depending on weather conditions. But if the wind blows too hard in low season, expect the night-time party vibe to get even stronger. Open Thursday to Tuesday from 12am to 10pm, +66 (0) 98 364 4748, www.facebook. com/SummerSupKohchang

EVERYTHING UNDER ONE TREE

The Treescape Pattaya offers a whole world under one canopy – a café, a working space, and a full-service restaurant. Guests can settle under the indoor tree in the cool white interior, or duck into the garden for the breeze and daybeds. A minimalist dream, the two-storey mansion makes a perfect backdrop for Instagrammers. Its all-day restaurant offers over 60 à la carte dishes, special desserts, and pastries. Signatures range from classic Thai dishes to favourite fusion recipes like Khao Phad Rot Fai (railway kitchen-style fried rice), crispy pork crackling stir-fried with chilli and garlic, spaghetti with squid ink and fermented egg, and Phanaeng curry with grilled Australian beef on rice. Speciality drinks to beat the heat include Es Lemo (espresso shots infused with fresh lime juice), Es Bianco de Coco (espresso shots topped with coconut milk, milk, and coconut chips), and Lemo Butterflee (Butterfly pea tea with fresh lemon). The working space is open all day with free wifi and electricity. Open daily from 8am to 8pm, PattayaNa Kluea Rd, Pattaya City, Bang Lamung District, Chon Buri, +66 (0) 93 452 4166, www.facebook.com/Treescape.pattaya

HUNGRY FOR HOME-GROWN CHIANG MAI FLAVOURS? Farm Story House café has a great tale to tell: Ingredients picked fresh from its cottage garden for modern Thai fusion dishes served in Zen-like cosy surroundings.

On the menu are Koi in the Garden (spicy chicken with tomato salad served with seasonal vegetables), Mackerel Riceberry Salad served with chilli paste, northern-style Phad Thai, and more.

The local community flavour extends to its single-origin coffee sourced by Friends Trade’s local farms across the North. Along with free wifi

there’s a co-working corner where digital nomads can snuggle down and plug in.

The café also runs Coffee Classes (sensory, cupping, and home brewing techniques), Thai dessert cooking workshops, and DIY art workshops (natural soap-making, paper-cutting classes). From May to June, customers get the chance to taste first batches of single-origin coffee from local growers including Ler Tor Gold farm in Tak. Open daily (closed on Wednesday) from 8am to 5pm, +66 (0) 81 629 1662, www.facebook.com/farmstorycnx

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HAPPENINGS CAMBODIA SPOTLIGHT

Authentic Khmer Dining Influential Cambodian cook, food writer and activist Chef Rotanak Ros, better known as Chef Nak, continues to break new ground in promoting Khmer cuisine.

As a pioneering female chef and fierce advocate for local cuisine and ingredients, Chef Nak has dedicated her career to safeguarding traditional recipes that are at risk of disappearing. Over the last 15 years, she has travelled the country, working with families to record hundreds of recipes and share them with the world

GOLD FEVER

The region’s best athletes are training for battle in the 2023 edition of the Southeast Asian Games. Better known as the SEA Games, the 32nd edition will see fierce competition across 38 sports categories for two weeks in May. Cambodia is hosting the biennial multi-sport event in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanoukville, Kampot and Kep provinces. The Morodok Techo National Stadium in the capital will serve as the main arena for the games and host both the opening and closing ceremonies.

Following the 2023 SEA Games, the city will also host the ASEAN Para Games 2023 from June 1 to 10. May 5-17; Morodok Techo National Stadium, Phnom Penh; cambodia2023.com

through her website, social media, cookbooks, culinary school – and now her very own restaurant. Chef Nak is sharing recipes crafted through painstaking research in an intimate home-dining experience where guests can discover the secrets of Cambodian cuisine.

From USD350 for two (advance booking required due to limited seats); chefnak.com

WORLD’S TOP BARTENDERS

Some of the world’s best bartenders continue to choose Phnom Penh to showcase their creativity and talent thanks to the Rosewood Bar Series programme. Hosted at the Rosewood Phnom Penh’s Sora Sky Bar, the event features individuals and establishments who made it to the World’s 50 Best Bars list. This year, the programme serves up a curated list of top-ranked talents from the planet’s 50

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hottest bars. In May, Sora Sky Bar hosts Hiroyasu Kayama, one of Japan’s most influential bartenders. The seasoned mixologist behind Tokyo’s eight-seater Bar Benfiddich (No. 48 on The World’s 50 Best Bars list) will guide guests through a night of spontaneity, impeccable attention to detail, and one-of-a-kind concoctions. concoctions.

May 25-27, from 8pm till late; Sora Sky Bar@Rosewood Phnom Penh; +855 23 936 860

BUZZING ART HIVE

The Factory is one of Phnom Penh’s newest and most vibrant art and creative spaces. A former garment factory, the facility has been repurposed as an impressive co-working space. But The Factory is more than just a place where work gets done; it is also a hangout for the city’s creatives and artists. Phnom Penh’s

mixed-use IT and creative hub is designed to cultivate the next generation of Cambodian entrepreneurs, change makers and creative professionals. It is also a place to discover street art and culture. In addition to the murals that adorn the walls of the complex, there is also an art gallery on-site as well as a retail and F&B space. Open daily from 6am to 9pm; factoryphnompenh.com

PHNOM PENH / SIEM REAP SPOTLIGHT

Unique Circus Stories

More than just a circus, performers under this magical big top tent use theatre, music, dance and acrobatics to tell unique Cambodian tales.

This eclectic show is presented by artists from the Phare Ponleu Selpak vocational training centre in Battambang. Each show tells tales inspired by real-life experiences, dealing with themes like war, discrimination, relationships, poverty and ghosts. Filled with energy, enthusiasm, emotion and talent, Phare Circus offers visitors a thrilling ride through the local culture. Daily performances from 8pm; tickets start from USD18; www.pharecircus.org

ZIPPING THROUGH ANGKOR

Get a bird’s eye view of the local flora and fauna as you “zip” over the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Angkor Archaeological Park. Opened in 2016, this heart-pumping adventure can last anything from one to three hours depending on the group size and length of zipline course chosen. Apart from giving guests a chance to soar and swoop through the treetops, Angkor Zipline also offers canopy and riding tours as well as guided walks.

From USD49 per person; angkorzipline.com

PRESERVING LOCAL HANDICRAFTS

The Satcha Handicrafts Centre in Siem Reap lovingly nurtures and promotes traditional Cambodian handicrafts through its new incubation centre. Opened to support and rejuvenate crafts by combining traditional knowledge with contemporary design, the centre nurtures local artisans through large workshops held in a purpose-built

facility. The Satcha Handicrafts Centre also offers visitors an opportunity to better understand Khmer craftsmanship and the talent it takes to preserve its centuries-old practices. Visitors can browse and purchase souvenirs in the showroom and chill out with refreshments in the coffeeshop. Open daily 8am to 7pm; satcha-handicraft.com

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HAPPENINGS LAOS

LUANG PRABANG

SPOTLIGHT

From the Heart to the Table Executive Chef Larisa Vesterbacka’s ambition to capture the timeless flavours of Laos’ oldworld charm has elevated Luang Prabang’s dining scene to new heights. At Tam Nan restaurant in

La Résidence Phou Vao, a Belmond Hotel, Chef Larisa employs traditional slow-cooking methods to extract rich and authentic Laotian flavours. These include cooking with bamboo, banana leaves and fresh coconut over charcoal or stewing in a clay pot. With 15 years’ experience in Asian cuisine spanning China, Thailand

and Cambodia, Larisa’s instinctive approach and lifelong passion for electrifying spices, flavours and interesting textures course through Tam Nan’s menu.

Naviengkham Village, Phu Vao Road, Luang Prabang. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. www.belmond.com

ROCKETS AWAY!

FAST TRAIN TO CHINA

Opened in December 2021, the LaosChina Railway notched up an incredible milestone in March – transporting more than 10,000 passengers in a single day. This surge in passengers is due to borders opening and travel restrictions being lifted. The gleaming new highspeed railway has made travel easier between China and Laos while also cutting travel times between Laotian

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The yearly Boun Bang Fai festival lands in May to welcome the rainy season and celebrate fertility. The date differs by province but the fun levels stay the same, making this a mustsee experience for visitors.

Boun Bang Fai celebrations feature traditional dance performances, men parading in drag, and a procession of floats. Though festivities differ from province to province, the day always ends with a bang as people gather on the outskirts of towns or villages to watch homemade rockets launch into the sky. The large explosions are the local way of saying thanks to the God of the Skies for granting rain and a good harvest. May to June; www.tourismlaos.org. www.tourismlaos.org towns. Stretching 1,035 kilometres, it whisks travellers from Kunming to Luang Prabang in 17 hours and from Luang Prabang to Vientiane in just two hours. With demand rising, the LaosChina Railway has extended its ticketselling hours and increased the number of bogies to 12 to accommodate the growing passenger load. www.crecg.com

Photos: Mandai Wildlife Group

Photos: Gardens by the Bay/City Neon

SINGAPORE

SPOTLIGHT

Night at the Zoo The Singapore Zoo is giving animal lovers a chance to cuddle up to wildlife in the metropolis with its “Glamping in the Wild” programme.

Nature lovers get the opportunity to spend a night at the zoo and also hang out with several of its residents for an entire day. The getaway begins with guests helping to feed a herd of Asian elephants, before being treated to a hearty dinner themselves. Guests then get to retire for the night in cosy and comfortable domed tents with animals all around for company. The experience includes breakfast and more encounters with the zoo’s wild ambassadors. Guests interested in getting wet can opt for the River Wonders’ popular “Glamping with the Manatees” experience which is available until August this year. Various dates, from SGD1,699 per tent (sleeps four), www.mandai.com

Photo: Museum of Ice Cream

AVATAR COMES TO LIFE

SCOOPS OF FUN

Rediscover your inner child on a rainbow journey featuring a vintage diner, a unicorn playground, and the world’s largest sprinkle pool! Designed to be a safe space for human connection and learning through play, the Museum of Ice Cream is the sweetest spot in Singapore for unforgettable frosty fun! Open Thursday to Sunday, 10am-10pm (last entry 8pm), www.museumoficecream.com/singapore

Singapore’s Gardens by the Bay has brought Pandora, the alien world of James Cameron’s sci-fi blockbuster, “Avatar: The Way of Water”, to life in its Cloud Forest.

Complete with spiralling walkways and waterfalls, the immersive walkthrough gives guests an opportunity to experience mystical flora and fauna, as well as the captivating culture of the Na’vi, the alien species that calls Pandora home. Also included are encounters with creatures from the film, such as the Banshee and Viperwolf. Until June 30, 9am-9pm daily; tickets start at SGD53 per adult; www.gardensbythebay.sg

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CHECKING OUT

Singapore Sparkles – Sustainably The Lion City will shimmer once again as its annual light-art installation, i Light Singapore, returns this year with the theme “New Wave”. Local and foreign artists aim to dazzle and enchant visitors with glittering installations made using energysaving, environmentally friendly materials.

The festival will light up locations around Marina Bay from June 2 to 25.

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www.supersurfkata.com Welcome to Super Surf — the largest water flow surf simulator in Phuket.

The club has been welcoming wave riders since December 2022 and has something for everyone. As well as private events, Super Surf caters to singles, families and groups who want to chill with cool drinks, delicious snacks or sway to the beat of the in-house DJ. SUPER SURF KATA

@SUPERSURFKATA

+66 (0) 91 914 5546

SUPERSURFKATA

2 Pakbang Road, Kata Beach, Tambon Karon, Muang District, Phuket, Thailand 83100

Open Daily 9AM-10PM

UNWIND IN THE HEART OF CHAWENG BEACH Unwind in a hidden sanctuary at the heart of Chaweng town.

Located in the middle of Chaweng, known as one of the most beautiful beaches in Koh Samui, Baan Chaweng Beach Resort & Spa blends the tropical environment with serene relaxation to offer a mesmerizing stay in Koh Samui.

Basking in beautiful natural surroundings along with the divine view of the ocean, the resort is also only a 5-minute walk to the nearest shopping mall and a 10-minute drive to Samui International Airport.

Baan Chaweng Beach Resort & Spa – Koh Samui 90/1 Chaweng Beach, M. 2, T. Bophut, Koh Samui, Surat Thani 84320 Thailand Tel: +66 (0) 77 300 564-6 Email: info@baanchawengbeachresort.com Website: www.baanchawengbeachresort.com EXPLORE MORE