EATING OUT
FOOD EDITOR'S LETTER Blimey – it’s 2012. And, to slip briefly into cliché, what a year it’s been. We’ve seen the rise and rise of restaurants like Zuma and La Petite Maison, the departure of Gordon Ramsay, and the arrival of The Ivy, Hakkasan and Gaucho. And that’s before we consider the fine restaurants that have opened in the capital, and the exciting plans for Abu Dhabi’s restaurant scene over the next 12 months. Dining in the UAE has never been such a pleasurable experience. But, if we want to challenge global food behemoths like London, Paris and New York, or even regional culinary leaders like Beirut and Istanbul, we need to keep moving forward with purpose. So, in the grand old tradition of editor’s wish lists, here is mine for 2012. We need more homegrown restaurant brands like Okku and Table 9 By Nick And Scott. We need to see a move away from the supermarket, and the opening of more farmers’ markets to add to Ripe (ripeme.com) and Baker & Spice (bakerandspiceme.com). More restaurants need to champion local produce, and these markets draw attention to local farms. More notice needs to be paid to the Choose Wisely campaign (choosewisely.ae) to promote the use of sustainable fish. Finally, I would like to see more inventiveness from the city’s kitchens, and more thought put in to creating truly unique restaurant concepts. We can’t rely solely on imported brands and old classics. To start off 2012, we visit Abu Dhabi restaurants, Quest (p31) and 18 Degrees (p32), cook a classic spaghetti vongole (p33) and explore Italian wine (p35). Plus our Twitter recipe (p33), Gary Rhodes (p34) and food news (p36). Happy New Year, and bon appetit for 2012. Gareth Rees Features & Food Editor If you have any comment or opinions on Eating Out or the UAE food scene, please e-mail gareth@ motivate.ae
Quest
wave of childish glee as the candy fizzes on your tongue. We were tempted by the five spice duck for A visit to Etihad Towers' Asian the main course – a fusion restaurant is entertaining, confit breast and soy braised leg – but the but is the food more style poulet de bresse (first than substance? rate French chicken), f location were everything, then Quest, the served with a generous new flagship restaurant at Etihad Towers, side portion of mildly spiced rice, turned out Jumeirah’s first foray into the capital, to be delectably tender – a more classic dish, would easily clean up the competition. both in flavour and presentation, it lacked the Resplendent with stratospheric views across pizzazz of some of the other dishes we ate. the city and Gulf from its 63rd Fortunately, for dessert the floor vantage point, a quietly chef presented us with another classy interior and plenty of dish as entertaining as our NEED TO KNOW bespoke features, it definitely starter. The yuzu crumble was Location: Etihad Towers, has the wow factor. a real spectacle. The East Asian West Corniche, Abu Dhabi The menu has a definite citrus fruit vaguely resembles Tel: (02) 8115555 Singapore swing, thanks to a caramelised lemon. When Web: jumeirah.com the presence of Singaporean pierced and sliced open, Open: lunch Sun to Thurs chef Benjamin Whatt, however, its gooey, warm noon to 3.30pm, dinner previously at the Burj Al Arab contents are easily coaxed into daily 7pm to 11.30pm in Dubai. Chef Whatt’s Asian a crunchy crumble, like an Cuisine type: Asian fusion fusion menu is designed to especially appetising Kinder Must eat: yuzu crumble knock starch from the stuffy Egg for grown ups. Bill for two: Dhs655 fine dining experience often Jumeirah’s latest is more (without alcohol) offered in such landmarks of of an adventure than a quest. luxury and make eating fun. From custom-made sugar The cereal prawn, a trio pots for your post-meal tea or of juicy Spanish-sourced IN TWEET FORM coffee, through to an adorable crustaceans, proves a perfect Quest’s adventurous menu wooden device featuring a early indication of his is as fun as it is expertly javelin thrower figure who intentions, interspersing executed, unlike the stuffy dispenses and picks up flecks of popping candy fine dining experience toothpicks at the push of a through its crumbly oat base. you might expect from a thumb, and, of course, chef The use of popping candy restaurant in such a luxury Whatt’s food, fun is definitely is a bit of a gimmick, which landmark. foremost in the restaurant Follow us at anyone who has seen a few team’s mind. Entertaining @WhatsOnDubai and episodes of Come Dine With food – something the UAE @WhatsOnAbuDhabi Me will be familiar with, but doesn’t have enough of – is it’s impossible not to feel a never a bad thing.
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JANUARY 2012 WHAT’S ON 31