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new york + London a n e w L o o k at t wo o f t h e wo r L d ’ s g r e at e s t c i t i e s

calibre de cartier Chronograph 1904-Ch MC

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contents / January 2014

40 32

Walking down Athens’ Skoufa Street

Buenos Aires electro-folk singersongwriter Juana Molina shares her favourite tracks


Adam Stokes of Michelin-starred restaurant Adam’s on where to eat in Our Visiting the new Birmingham, UK comprehensive Rough Trade guide to Osaka, New York Japan




Open skies / January 2014


We visit an independent bookshop in Dubai


An inspirational image of the Duoyishu Rice Terraces in China’s Yuanyang County

contents / January 2014


Jack Nicholson’s Greatest Movie

Front (21) Calendar The Grid The Question The Street Skypod The Room

23 28 31 32 40 42

Consume BLD Mapped Local Knowledge Place

Main (67) Jack Nicholson’s Greatest Movie Our Man In New York + London

45 48 51 57 64

brieFing (93) 68 76 82

News Comfort Visas & Stats Route Map Fleet Last Look


Open skies / January 2014

94 102 104 106 112 114

edItor-In-CHIeF ManaGInG partner & GroUp edItor edItorIal dIreCtor GroUp edItor edItor art dIreCtor desIGner sUB edItor edItorIal assIstant

Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Ian Fairservice Gina Johnson Mark Evans Gareth Rees Olga Petroff Ralph Mancao Salil Kumar Londresa Flores

ContrIBUtors Ross Clarke, Gemma Correll,, Mats Kahlstrom, Jamie Knights, Melodie Jeng, Yiorgos Kordakis, Joe Minihane, Adrian Mourby, Louis Pattison, Dunstan Prial, Conor Purcell, REM, Adam Smith

Head oF prodUCtIon S Sunil Kumar senIor prodUCtIon ManaGer C Sudhakar

General ManaGer, GroUp sales Anthony Milne

dIGItal developMent ManaGer Helen Cotton

GroUp sales ManaGer Jaya Balakrishnan senIor sales ManaGer Michael Underdown

sales ManaGer Rameshwar Nepali depUtY sales ManaGer Amar Kamath reGIonal ManaGer aBU dHaBI Imane Eddinari

edItorIal ConsUltants For eMIrates edItor Jonathan Hill araBIC edItor Hatem Omar depUtY edItor Andy Grant WeBsIte InternatIonal MedIa representatIves aUstralIa/neW Zealand Okeeffe Media; Tel + 61 412 080 600, BenelUX M.P.S. Benelux; Tel +322 720 9799, CHIna Publicitas Advertising; Tel +86 10 5879 5885 GerManY IMV Internationale Medien Vermarktung GmbH; Tel +49 8151 550 8959, HonG KonG/MalaYsIa/tHaIland Sonney Media Networks; Tel +852 2151 2351, IndIa Media Star; Tel +91 22 4220 2103, ItalY & spaIn IMM International; Tel +331 40 1300 30, Japan Tandem Inc.; Tel + 81 3 3541 4166, netHerlands GIO Media; Tel +31 6 29031149, tUrKeY Media Ltd.; Tel +90 212 275 51 52, UK Spafax Inflight Media; Tel +44 207 906 2001, Usa Totem Brand Stories; Tel +212 896 3846,

Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

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98,776 copies – June 2013

Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE

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ew York and London are both cities very close to my heart. I lived in London before moving to Dubai and, although Wales will always be my home country, I also consider London home. I didn’t visit New York until 2008, but wandering the streets of The Big Apple alone, I was instantly hooked. It’s impossible, having seen it so often in movies, to escape the feeling that you know New York very well, but it wasn’t until I returned in 2011, visiting with my wifeto-be (we got engaged on the trip) that I saw beyond Manhattan. Running the New York City Marathon, we navigated all five boroughs, cheered on by crowds of jubilant New Yorkers – it was one of the most memorable days of my life. I am envious, then, of Daniella Zalcman, the photographer who created the image on our cover, as well as the eight images from her New York + London series that we have published in this issue. Daniella divides her time between New York and London, and has merged shots of both cities to create a collection of truly captivating images. Speaking of being captivated, the first time I saw Jack Nicholson, it was on a beaten up old television set. He was wearing make-up, and he was putting in a performance that was both beguiling and menacing to a child of ten or so. Nicholson was hamming it up as The Joker in Tim Burton’s 1989 rendering of Batman. His hair was stained green, his face was daubed in an ash grey paste, his painted grin was a thin knife slash and he wore a foppish purple and green outfit that made him look like the ghost of a decadent Victorian dandy. Otherwise, he was Jack. “You ever dance with the devil in the pale moonlight?” he asked Michael Keaton’s Bruce Wayne in that sing-song voice, waving a pistol at him with a camp swivel of his wrist. I was enthralled. It was probably the first time I rooted for the bad guy rather than the hero. Since that first viewing



ON THE COVER / The image on this month’s cover is from photographer Daniella Zalcman’s New York + London series, and it was an obvious choice. We won’t tell you how Daniella created the image, because she explains it much better herself in her intro to the photo essay, featuring eight more images from the series, which starts on page 82. But we think the result is undeniably impressive.

of Batman, I have devoured Easy Rider, One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest, A Few Good Men, As Good As It Gets, About Schmidt, The Departed – even a re-cut version of The Wild Ride, retitled Velocity, in which a 23-year-old Nicholson plays a rebellious boy racer called Johnny Varron. But, for me, his greatest movie, the one that was written by one of the 20th century’s most revered screenwriters (Robert Towne) and directed by one of its most talented directors (Roman Polanski), is Chinatown. When Jack retired at the end of last year, I felt the same twinge of sadness I felt when I heard Oliver Reed had growled his last, and we at Open Skies had been waiting for an opportunity to honour the great man. So, when Empire film writer and regular OS contributor Adam Smith suggested writing about the making of Chinatown, we didn’t hesitate. The resulting story has it all: drama, ego, genius and one of the finest films of all time – the ideal way to start 2014. Happy New Year!


Tested and designed with iconic British aviation company Martin-Baker, the Bremont MBII is the only watch ever to have been subjected to a live ejection testing programme.




Whether standing in freezing cold water capturing pictures of Arctic surfing, or hanging out of the back of a tuk-tuk, speeding down a narrow street in southern Sri Lanka, Mats likes to fully immerse himself in an experience if he is going to photograph it. Surprisingly, his image of China’s Duoyishu Rice Terraces that is this month’s Place was captured during a peaceful sunrise. “There are always moments from a trip that you will remember, and moments that you won’t remember,” he says. “Viewing the sunrise at the Duoyishu Rice Terraces was certainly memorable. “


Adrian was an award-winning BBC television producer before beginning his life of travel. He has been on the road now for 15 years, and during that time has published four novels, two travel guides and a book of humour based on his BBC radio series Whatever Happened To...? He travelled to Athens to explore Skoufa Street for this issue. “Getting to know Athens in detail was exciting,” he says. “There is a lot of energy on the street among people who have rethought their lives entirely and are doing things they might not have dared before. The financial crisis has brought out the best in many Greeks.”


Senior writer for film magazine Empire, Adam has written a number of features for Open Skies in the past, including our October 2013 Steve Jobs cover story, The Man Who Saved Pixar. He is the author of The Rough Guide To 21st Century Cinema (2012), and for this issue he has written about the making of Jack Nicholson’s greatest movie, Chinatown. “Jack Nicholson is one of my alltime cinematic heroes, and writing about Chinatown gave me the opportunity to watch and rewatch a film that defined Jack at the peak of his powers”




Focusing on street fashion photography, Melodie has contributed to,, Elle. com, Refinery29, and more. She currently lives in New York City and travels to fashion shows in Europe. She hit the streets to photograph the subject of this month’s Last Look page. “I really enjoyed photographing Josephine in Williamsburg,” she says. “I’ve become accustomed to shooting younger people wearing trends and brands, and I was excited to find an (older) woman who looked great and didn’t consciously focus how she looked everyday.”


Daniella is a photographer based in London and New York. Her work has appeared in The Wall Street Journal, The New York Times, Sports Illustrated, Vanity Fair and National Geographic, among others. She graduated from Columbia University in 2009 with a degree in architecture. A selection of images from her New York + London series appears in this issue, and one adorns our cover. “New York + London is a project that is close to my heart,” she says. “It’s been exciting to find so many other expats who have been able to relate to my search for home.”









“A haven for directional fashion” Mark C O’Flaherty, Financial Times

“Champion of emerging and avant-garde designers” Rebecca Gonsalves, The Independent

“The story that continues to surprise the entire market” Giusi Ferré, Corriere Economia


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Book World Discovering one of Dubai’s most popular independent bookshops


front ATHENS: Exploring the Greek capital’s Skoufa Street NEw york: An iconic independent London record store opens in The Big Apple birmiNgHAm: A leading chef shares his favourite places to eat out in the UK’s second city


Open skies / January 2014

32 46 48



January 10 to 12, Norfolk, UK

Oliver Burkeman’s reading retreat tO vOewOOd

January 9 to 11, Osaka, Japan

Toka Ebisu Festival Every year more than a million people head to the shrine dedicated to Ebisu or Ebessan, the god of commercial prosperity, in the city of Osaka. The start of January means it’s time to buy your new fukusasa (sacred bamboo branches adorned with lucky charms) and head for the Imamiya Ebisu Shrine to pray for a year of prosperity and luck in business and money matters. Don’t be surprised if you see nearly all of the city’s businessmen and women en route. JNTO.GO.JP/ENG

Philosopher Alain de Botton’s The School Of Life will hold its regular weekend Reading Retreat in Voewood House on the north Norfolk coast. Led by Guardian columnist and author of The Antidote: Happiness for People Who Can’t Stand Positive Thinking, Oliver Burkeman, and artist Ella Berthoud, the retreat offers guest the opportunity to talk about books and ideas with invited guests and expert guides. THESCHOOLOFLIFE.COM

January 10 to February 15, Sydney, Australia

St George Open Air Cinema The 33-night St George Open Air Cinema film festival will take place at Fleet Steps, Mrs Macquaries Point, providing both a full screening schedule and a Sydney Harbour backdrop. Tickets are available online and full details plus a host of extras can be found on the St. George Open Air app. STGEORGEOPENAIR.COM.AU

January 10 to 26, Valletta, Malta

valletta internatiOnal BarOque Festival

In its second year, the Baroque Festival in the Maltese capital, Valletta, aims to celebrate the city’s Baroque heritage with a programme of events focused on music from the period. Festivities will be taking place in the Teatru Manoel, one of Europe’s oldest working theatres, as well as St John’s Co-Cathedral, the Grandmasters’ Palace and many other buildings that showcase the Baroque style. VALLETTABAROQUEFESTIVAL.COM.MT


Open skies / January 2014



January 13 to 26, Melbourne, Australia


The year’s first Grand Slam tournament will see the world’s top tennis talent battle it out at Melbourne Park for the Australian Open title. Serbia’s Novak Djokovic is the reigning men’s champion, having beaten the UK’s Andy Murray in 2013 to pick up his third consecutive Australian Open men’s singles title. While Victoria Azarenka of Belarus picked up the women’s singles title last year.

January 14, Ahmedabad, India

International Kite Festival To celebrate the change of seasons in the Hindu calendar, the festival of Uttarayan sees the whole region of Gujarat lift its head to the skies for the International Kite Festival. The city of Ahmedabad is taken over by people of all ages wielding their best bamboo and paper kites, and the best kite makers and fliers from all over the world come to display their original designs and demonstrate their aerial acrobatics. AHMEDABADKITEFLYERS.ORG/INTERNATIONALKITEFESTIVALAHMEDABAD


January 16 to 26, Christchurch, New Zealand

January 15 to 23, Hong Kong

World Buskers Festival


For the third year running, celebrated Taiwanese violinist Cho Liang Lin returns as artistic director of Hong Kong’s Chamber Music Festival, offering a programme of concerts showcasing the talent of musicians such as the Miró Quartet, violinists Vadim Repin and Akiko Suwanai, violist Toby Hoffman, clarinettist Burt Hara and pianists Jon Kimura Parker and Evelyn Chang. The recitals take place at a range of venues and tickets are available online.

The World Buskers Festival sees 55 of the world’s best street performers come together to show off their unique skills. The 2014 line-up boasts acts ranging from comedians to mimes, trapeze artists to musicians, burlesque dancers to circus acts.




Juana Molina 24


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THE MOULDING POWER OF LIGHT “I don’t sculpt materials; I use materials to sculpt light” MILAN – LUGANO – MIAMI – DUBAI | ENQUIRIES +971(0)508583442 |



January 17 to March 29, London, UK

KInO/FILM: SOvIet POSterS OF the SILent Screen

The Gallery for Russian Arts and Design (GRAD) in collaboration with Antikbar is presenting an exhibition dedicated to the golden age of Soviet film with posters from the 1920s. Kino/Film: Soviet Posters of the Silent Screen examines more than 30 works by Aleksandr Rodchenko, the brothers Georgii and Vladimir Stenberg, among others. The exhibition coincides with the UK/Russia Year of Culture. GRAD-LONDON.COM

January 16 to 26, Monte Carlo

International Circus Festival The International Circus Festival of Monte-Carlo is the biggest and most prestigious circus event in the world. Now in its 39th year, the festival was created by H.S.H. Prince Rainier III of Monaco and is now presided over by H.S.H. Princess Stéphanie of Monaco. The most impressive circus performers from across the globe are invited to perform and compete for the highly acclaimed Clown d’Or (Golden Clown) award. Expect tricks and flicks, treats and feats from the professional performers that are sure to leave your mouth wide open in amazement. MONTECARLOFESTIVAL.MC/EN/

January 16 to 26, Utah, USA

Sundance Film Festival Sundance Film Festival has provided support for the development of independent film production, writing and directing since 1981. Every year it showcases films that might not otherwise have been made, and is credited with launching the careers of many actors and directors. Some of Hollywood’s top names can be seen at this year’s festival, including Tom Hardy, Philip Seymour Hoffman and Mia Wasikowska. Don’t miss God’s Pocket, John Slattery’s (Mad Men’s Roger Sterling) directorial debut.

January 17 to February 2, Vancouver, Canada

DIne Out vancOuver FeStIvaL

Dine Out Vancouver Festival, Canada’s largest restaurant festival, showcases the best of Vancouver’s culinary scene. During the 17-day festival, restaurants offer three-or-more-course meals for fixed prices, allowing diners to try something new every day. DINEOUTVANCOUVER.COM


Mapped 26

Osaka page 51

Open skies / January 2014


Memorable EXPERIENCES Where classical elegance meets modern style.


THE GRID January 24, 25 and 31 and February 1 Rosencrantz And Guildenstern Are Dead Dubai, UAE


Dubai Drama Group will perform Sir Tom Stoppard’s 1960s tragicomic masterpiece Rosencrantz And Guildenstern Are Dead at Dubai Community Theatre & Arts Centre’s (DUCTAC) Killachand Studio Theatre. The amateur group closed out 2013 with strong interpretations of Harold Pinter’s Betrayal and Steven Berkoff’s adaptation of Franz Kafka’s Metamorphosis.

January 9 to 11 Paris Opera Ballet Dubai, UAE

January 10 to 11 Dunlop 24hrs Dubai Dubai, UAE The annual Dunlop 24hrs Dubai race will be held at Dubai Autodrome, with 90 teams of two to five drivers competing on the 5.39km circuit over 24 hours. Admission is free.

Dancers from Paris Opera Ballet will perform a selection of dance works from the ballet’s extensive repertoire at Madinat Theatre. Ticket prices range from Dhs250 (US$68) to Dhs450 (US$120).



the question

WHY DO I HAVE A FAVOURITE COLOUR? The last person who asked ‘what is your favourite colour?’ was probably a child. You were most likely a child, too. Adults don’t go around asking other fully-grown human beings for their colour preferences. In polite society, it’s just not the done thing. But just because we’ve stopped asking, doesn’t mean that we don’t have an answer. If asked, you could probably still answer in an instant, right? According to a 2009 study of 13,000 people in 17 countries with the rather unfortunate title Global Market Bias: Part 1 – Colour, blue is the world’s favourite colour. Why? Well, another study, conducted by UC Berkeley psychologists Stephen Palmer and Karen Schloss in 2010, concluded that we prefer colours that we associate with positive

experiences, or objects we like. But, as a person’s favourite colour is determined by experience, and no two individuals’ experiences are identical, colour preference is a very personal thing – not everybody loves blue. For example, one person might associate blue with blue sky, and in turn with fine weather, whereas another might associate it with cold, preferring red because it reminds them of a roaring fire. So, what is your favourite colour?


Open skies / January 2014


Animal charity @action4ifaw explains itself in 140 characters or less

@OpenSkiesMag: OK. What is IFAW? @action4ifaw: IFAW is short for the International Fund for Animal Welfare We were founded in 1969. @OpenSkiesMag: Why was IFAW founded? Who was the founder? @action4ifaw: IFAW was founded in Canada by Brian Davies to end the Canadian commercial seal hunt. @OpenSkiesMag: How far has IFAW’s work progressed beyond that original goal? @action4ifaw: IFAW now has offices in 15 countries and more than 40 projects around the world. We help individual animals and populations. @OpenSkiesMag: Can you give an example of one of your bigger projects? @action4ifaw: We are currently working in several regions of Africa to help end the killing of elephants for their ivory. @OpenSkiesMag: What are you doing to help? @action4ifaw: IFAW helps train law enforcement, we develop alternatives livelihood projects, and we work to secure additional habitat. @action4ifaw: re: ivory trade, we also work on demand reduction campaigns in the US, EU and China. @OpenSkiesMag: If people want to get involved, how can they help? @action4ifaw: People interested in supporting IFAW’s mission can start by visiting to get the latest news and donate. @OpenSkiesMag: Is there any way in which people can help beyond donating money? @action4ifaw: Yes, opportunities vary by region – the ‘Get Involved’ section has the latest information. @OpenSkiesMag: Could you list a couple of the ways in which people can help in the fight to end the killing of elephants for their ivory? @action4ifaw: Many don’t realise elephants need to die for their ivory to be taken. Don’t buy ivory if you want to protect elephants.

the street

Skoufa Street, Athens Words by Adrian Mourby and images by Yiorgos Kordakis


koufa is an upmarket street in Kolonaki, an area of Athens that rises up from Syntagma Square towards Lycabetus Hill. Until the 1880s this was a sparsely inhabited area outside the old city walls with only few houses, and even today it contains much of Athens’ greenery. Skoufa was named after a hero of the early Greek independence movement, Nikolaos Skoufas (1779 to 1818), and was built in the late 19th century expansion of Athens. It is one of a number of tall narrow streets that run on a

northwest/southeast axis parallel to the modern ring road. In the early decades of the twentieth century these were Athens’s most glamorous streets. The city’s last Art Nouveau buildings were constructed on Skoufa before World War I, and its first Art Deco apartments immediately afterwards. In the 1920s clubs sprang up along fashionable Skoufa for those who enjoyed ‘international music’ ( jazz) and Skoufa remained one of the best addresses in town even wealthy Athenians moved out of the city in


Open skies / January 2014

the 1960s. But in the 1980s the street was rediscovered as a fashionable place to shop. The restoration of its Art Deco and Art Nouveau buildings dates from this time, and in recent years this gentrification is nearing completion, with the added stimulus of many old buildings being converted into bars, cafes and restaurants. Today, Skoufa is a very Athenian mix of apartment blocks, modern restaurants, a famous school from the 1930s and the Church of Aghios Dionysios, where many society weddings are held.

Nice ‘n’ easy BIO restaurant café-bar Dmitris Christoforidis’ bio-diner has been such a success on the corner of Skoufa and Omirou for the last five years that he has been invited to open Nice ‘n’ easy in London and the US. The idea of the cafe restaurant is simple: good, responsibly sourced Greek food served in large reasonablypriced portions with a humorous American overlay – most dishes are named after a Hollywood star. The décor teems with murals (by Nathan Makris) from black and white movies, and portraits of Hollywood legends like Frank Sinatra, Marilyn Monroe and Anthony Quinn are interspersed with old American posters. Meanwhile jazz plays in the background. After initial scepticism Athenians have taken to Niceneasy in a big way, and at 11pm when many Greeks go to dinner it can be difficult to secure a table. 60 Omirou and Skofa Street. Kolanki, Athens Tel: +30 210 361 7201

Melissa Publishers In the years before World War I this stately house at 58 Skoufa was the home of Greek poet and novelist George Drossinis (1859 to 1951). For the last ten years the cellar of the building has been the Melissa bookshop, while upstairs are the offices of this eminent Athenian publishing house. Melissa began in the 1930s and has since made its name with large colourful books on art and architecture (available in English and Greek). The complete backlist is available to buy in the basement shop. 58 Skoufa Street, Kolanaki, Athens Tel: +30 210 361 1692


Open skies / January 2014

the street

59 Skoufa Street One of the few Art Nouveau apartment blocks left in Athens, 59 Skoufa dominates the middle section of Skoufa. This apartment block dates from 1929 and was designed by Costas Kitsikis, who had studied in Berlin and was one of those who drafted the new European-style town plan for rebuilding Thessanloniki after its terrible fire in 1917. Kitsikis also built the Cultural Centre in Delphi and was elected an honorary member of the Instiutute of American Architects. The building is beautiful but also something of an anomaly as people had already started building in the new Art Deco style along Skoufa. Inside the building its original metal caged lift still rises up all four floors. Unlike many apartment blocks in the centre of Athens, No 59 has never been abandoned, but family occupancy has been replaced by legal and medical practices, and in the basement, where a concierge might have lived, there is now a jewellery shop called Eccentrics. 59 Skoufa Street, Kolanaki, Athens

Skoufa Gallery And Art Shop Founded in 1981 by collector Eleni Kalliga on the bottom floor of a 1950s apartment block at the southeast end of Skoufa, the street’s first and most influential art gallery created a stir in the 1980s by re-evaluating the golden generation of Greek artists

from the 1930s. Painters such as Yannis Tsarouchis (1910 to 1989) who led the movement for a new Greek tradition in art, Nikos HadjikyriakosGhikas (1906 to 1994) and Yannis Moralis (1916 to 2009), with whom Tsarouchis founded the Armos art group. Alongside their work, Eleni displayed paintings by newcomers simply on the


Open skies / January 2014

basis that she liked their work, and her personal enthusiasms have always dominated the gallery’s calendar of exhibitions. Although Eleni’s son Yiannis now runs Skoufa Gallery, he says his mother is still the heart and the soul of the gallery. 4 Skoufa Street, Kolanaki, Athens Tel: +30 210 364 3025

the street

Gallerie 30 You would hardly know this tiny art gallery was there below ground level were it not for the colourful doorway. Micalis Tsoutsanis has been running Gallerie 30 since 2012. He sees himself as a dealer first and collector second, and thinks that this is a great time to buy into the Greek art market with painters knowing they must keep their prices down. A new work of art can cost as little as EUR200 at Gallerie 30, although prices rise to EUR10,000. Featured artists include an Athenian trio who have exhibited widely outside Greece: Alexos Fassianos, who draws his inspiration from Greek myths, Byzantine icons and shadow puppets; Giorgis Stathopoulos,who reworks classical imagery; and the surrealist Theodores Pantaleon. The fresco artist Katerina Georganta represents the younger generation. Trained in Athens and Paris, she has decorated Greek casinos, hotels and cruise ships as well as the chapel of St. Nektarios inside Athens International Airport. 30 Skoufa Street, Kolanaki, Athens Tel: +31 21 0620 9011

O’ti Kalytero TV chef Efiyi Alousi is the owner of this recentlyopened pastry shop next to the Psilikatzidiko (general store). O’ti Kaaytepo is Greek for ‘All The Best’, and Alousi is certainly known for producing the best pavlova in Greece, which is sold here at EUR25 per kilo. She is even credited with introducing the dish to Greece after completing her studies in Australia. Alousi is also well regarded for her cookbooks,


Open skies / January 2014

which you can buy in the shop, along with packets of her biscuits and macaroons sporting O’ti Kalytepo’s distinctive red and white logo, and a wide selection of salads. The shop is very popular with office workers who pick up takeaway food, but it’s also possible to eat at the tables and chairs provided outside under the awning, and even purchase a bottle of wine to drink with your snack. 56 Skoufa Street, Kolanaki, Athens Tel: +31 21 0338 8827


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the street

Koukoutsi This tiny but famous T-shirt shop was founded in 2005, but it came into its own in the aftermath of the financial crisis selling T-shirts emblazoned with slogans such as “Greece Needs Love” and “Ich Bin Ein Athener”. The latest range celebrates the heroic Greek moustache and modern

architecture in Athens. Nikol Mainaris, who runs the shop, designs the entire range (each T-shirt retails at EUR24.90) “Koukoutsi means pip,“ he says. “The seed that creates new life. The aim of Koukoutsi is to provide mankind with unique things to wear, and to make this world a little bit more human and pleasant. We realised that Berliners

Bonzer Launched in October 2013, Bonzer is the newest kid on the Skoufa block. It’s a lively café-bar that opens onto the street and takes its design cue from the Brooklyn Bridge, which is reproduced in a small section of gantry running above the bar. In keeping with the Greek way of life, Bonzer opens at 9am and closes when the last person leaves. Cafe-bars are a

very important part of life in Athens these days. Post-Crisis, many clubs are looked upon as expensive and pretentious and no one can afford to dine out every night, so social life has come to revolve around your parea (friends) and your steki (regular haunt). 73 Skoufa Street, Kolanaki, Athens Tel: +30 21 5551 4726


Open skies / January 2014

love their city and Athenians do not... so we created this logo, which soon became very famous and popular, especially with foreigners who buy it to show their solidarity with Greeks. As the Athenian weather is so mild, this is very much a T-shirt city”. 81 Skoufa Street, Kolanaki, Athens Tel: +30 210 361 4060


JUANA MOLINA Genre: electro-folk AGe: 51 City: Buenos Aires

Having quit her hit comedy sketch show, Juana y sus hermanas, in 1996, electro-folk singer-songwriter Juana Molina recently released her sixth album, Wed 21. She shares her favourite tracks


02. 03. 04.

Broadcast Echo’s Answer

Marvin Pontiac No Kid

Underworld Jumbo

El Kinto Suena Blanca Espuma

From their album The Noise Made By People – such a beautiful voice, but set against these very metallic keyboard sounds. It has everything a song needs.

By the New York musician John Lurie – he recorded it under a fictional identity, because he said it made it easier to create. It sounds a little African. I like the lyrics a lot.

I was living in LA when this record came out, and I fell in love with it. Quite a silly song. There’s a background noise all the way through that’s trance-inducing.

A Uruguayan band from the 1960s. My parents owned this record, but I don’t know if they loved it like I did. They were influenced by The Beatles, but it has a groovy feel.


Open skies / January 2014

05. 06. 07.


Django Django Wor

The Sound Of Lucrecia Extraña Coleccion

King Crimson Easy Money

Senor Coconut Smoke On The Water

A newer band. Very fresh, original, poppy – I only chose this song because I’ve played the others a lot and worn them out.

A singer from Columbia. I think she sent this song to me herself. Her songs can be a bit uneven, but I think she’s totally original – she’s not copying anyone.

My introduction to progressive rock. I remember being 11 years old and laying down on the floor listening to it, one speaker either side of my head.

He is best known for his covers of Kraftwerk’s music, but here he does Deep Purple. His music is so funny, but he is very solemn and it’s wonderfully played.



the Room

text: Mark evanS iMageS: DUSit thani MalDiveS

rOOM 2401

DUSit thani, MalDiveS

Is there a hipper couples destination than the Maldives? Certainly the tiny island nation in the Indian Ocean is on the wish list of many a newlywed the world over, thanks in part to its idyllic tropical setting, surrounded by calming green seas and palm trees as far as the eye can see. Housed on the Mudhdhoo Island, a 35-minute, fun-filled seaplane flight away from the capital Male, the Dusit Thani Maldives ticks just about every box that would-be exotic castaways could ever dream of. Beautiful location? Check. Impeccable service? Check. Luxury living? Check that and then some. A mixture of secluded beach villas, ocean pavilions and over-lagoon residencies, decadence is pretty much standard, with rooms coming complete with private pools, 46” screen plasma TVs, surround sound systems, lavishly-stocked mini bars and, of course, simply stunning views. There’s a bank of free movies available to watch – such an easy thing to offer, yet rarely ever done – and free Wi-Fi while they’re at it, although with diving, snorkelling, a fully equipped gym (with a personal trainer and yoga instructor), and that incredible setting all on offer, chances are you’ll find little time to use them.


Open skies / January 2014

INTERNET SPEED: 24 MB PILLOWS: 6 BEDSIZE: 180cm x 200cm CLUB SANDWICH DELIVERY TIME: 16 minutes COMPLEMENTARY SNACKS: fruit, chocolates and mineral water TOILETRY BRAND: Molton Brown EXTRAS: iPod dock, free movies, tea/coffee TV channels: 40 VIEW: 5/5 RATE: From US$1,000

OPEN SKIES JAN 2014 ENG.pdf 1 12/11/2013 9:05:21 AM



Ipoh, Malaysia

Located near Ipoh Railway Station, the new M Boutique hotel has 93 rooms, a gym, Old Town White Coffee café, a meeting and event space, Myth Eatery & Bar, serving contemporary Malaysian dishes cooked with local ingredients, and its own M Shop boutique.


Souq Waqif Boutique Hotels’s latest property in Doha’s Souq Waqif shopping, restaurant and gallery district, Al Bidda Boutique Hotel, has 19 rooms and 13 suites. The five-star property boasts a large inner courtyard, meeting rooms, a game room and a beauty salon.

GRACE CAFAYATE Calchaqui Valley, Argentina

Grace Hotels’ first property in Latin America, Grace Cafayate, is located in Argentina’s Cafayate Valley on the Estancia de Cafayate estate. The 52-room property consists of a main hotel building and 20 residential villas, which can be booked as one or twobedroom suites, as well as two restaurants and a spa. Guests can also use the estate’s 18-hole golf course.

consume albums


AFTER THE DISCO Broken Bells Indie The second album from The Shins’ vocalist and guitarist James Mercer and producer Brian Burton, AKA Danger Mouse, features the single Holding On For Life, which was released in November 2013.

HIGH HOPES Bruce Springsteen

Rock The Boss’s 18th album features former Rage Against The Machine guitarist Tom Morello, as well as Springsteen’s E Street Band.

BROKE WITH EXPENSIVE TASTE Azealia Banks Hip hop The long-awaited debut album from Harlem-born rapper Azealia Banks has reportedly been five years in the making.

HER Spike Jonze

science fiction/romance Director Spike Jonze’s fourth feature film follows the critically acclaimed Being John Malkovich, Adaptation and Where The Wild Things Are. The plot centres on Theodore Twombly (Joaquin Phoenix) and his relationship with a computer operating system (Scarlett Johansson).


LABOR DAY Jason Reitman

In Peter segal’s (Naked Gun 33⅓: The Final Insult) sport comedy two retired boxers (sylvester stallone and Robert De Niro) come out of retirement after 30 years for one last fight. The heavyweight cast also includes Kim basinger and alan arkin.

academy award winner Kate Winslet and Oscar nominee Josh brolin star in Jason Reitman’s story of a mother and son who inadvertently take in an escaped convict. The film is based on Joyce maynard’s 2009 novel of the same name.




JONY IVE Leander Kahney

biography The tech writer and author of The Cult Of Mac, Cult Of iPod and Inside Steve’s Brain tackles the life of Apple’s senior vice president of design and Steve Jobs’ former right hand man, Sir Jonathan Ive.

SMARTER Dan Hurley

science Expanding on his 2012 New York Times Magazine article Can You Make Yourself Smarter?, awardwinning science journalist Dan Hurley delves into the world of intelligence training.


Open skies / January 2014

100 ILLUSTRATORS Steven Heller, Julius Wiedemann

art Former New York Times art director Steven Heller and design author Julius Wiedemann profile their pick of the 100 best illustrators working today.


Rough Trade NYC

INDIE MUSIC / Co-owner of Rough Trade, Stephen Godfroy, says the new Brooklyn store will be a ”destination in itself” for music fans

You have just opened the record store. How long has the project been in the making? It’s been four years. We had originally anticipated opening a Rough Trade record shop in New York two years ago, but the first property we had our eyes on, the landlord decided not to let it for an extended period. So we lost over a year finding a new property, which was a bit of a letdown. We had to find a new place, we have, this is it. The space is pretty unique for a record store. What challenges did you face? The construction became problematic, because the kind of thing we were doing in here had never been done before. Then Hurricane Sandy came along, which threw out the whole scheduling. What’s opening up while facing all these problems been like? For us, although the store is not quite finished, it’s just great to be open. We have the essence, we have the skeleton. It’s very similar to Rough Trade East (Rough Trade’s London flagship) in that respect. If anyone visited in 2007, when we first opened there, it was a similar type of thing. The racks aren’t full, lots of the displays aren’t ready, but people walk in here and are just pleased to be walking into a record shop at 9am. Has the approach to opening in New York been the same as in London? Yes, in that we have more confidence now because we know that music is such a strong social currency and as long as we cover the record store side of things well, we can look at different dimensions. It is a community hub, it is a record store, so we’ve been able to do things in here that we haven’t had the space to do in London. Like what? So, for instance, we’ve got an exhibition room. It provides record labels and publishers an opportunity to create an experience around a release, to tell the story behind it, or an artist, or a label’s history or a particular book. Having the luxury of a 400sqft room that sits inside but is autonomous from the store, something like that is great. It’s new, nobody has tried something like it before. Was the store always going to be in Brooklyn rather than Manhattan? It was, yes. You have the music scene here, which is obviously so strong. And then, from the commercial point of view, we wanted to do something in a large space, and you can’t do that in Manhattan. Rough Trade isn’t a high street store, it’s a side street store, so this is a destination in itself. There’s nothing else down this street, you can walk by the street and think there’s nothing down it. Spaces in Manhattan are either retail or not retail. Brooklyn allows us to create this hybrid environment, it’s more of a petri dish and it allows us to experiment. For lots of reasons, Brooklyn was and is the only place we looked at.


Open skies / January 2014


Williamsburg, Brooklyn, USA Questions: Joe Minihane / Answers: Co-owner of Rough Trade, Stephen Godfroy




Adam Stokes, chef patron of the Michelin-starred Adam’s, shares his favourite places to eat in England’s second city


Open skies / January 2014







I like to go for a full English breakfast at Cherry Reds – always freshly cooked to order and really tasty, not to mention a guaranteed runny fried egg. The menu is varied and all tastes are catered to, including vegetarian and glutenfree, and they usually have a ‘pie of the day’. In the evening it turns into a vibrant and bustling bar, specialising in beers from around the world. The décor is casual, with mismatched chairs, tables, sofas and stools, which all adds to the ethos of creating a relaxed bar with a passion for food and drink.

Chamberlains Quality Fish And Chips is a real gem of a place that has won numerous awards, including Best Newcomer at the National Fish and Chip Awards in 2012. This fish and chip shop is really firing on all cylinders, whether it be traditional cod and chips with fresh lemon, or their mackerel and cod scotch egg, a modern twist on a classic The formula here is simple: beautiful fresh fish, crispy batter and tasty chips cooked in beef fat, which is a recipe for a superb lunch. If it’s a nice day, take away and sit outside on one of their picnic benches.

Located just on the outskirts of the famous ‘Balti Triangle’, Mughal e Azam is easily my favourite Pakistani restaurant in Birmingham. Ingredients are sourced from Pakistani markets in the local area, so the flavours of the dishes are very authentic. Try the maachli tikka – beautifully cooked salmon marinated in Lahori spices, carom seeds, ginger, garlic and yogurt. For a main course, I can recommend nali gosht masala – tender braised lamb shank, cooked in its own juices with pomegranate, saffron and cream.

Cherry Reds 88 to 90 John Bright Street, Birmingham B1 1BN Tel: +44 (0) 121643 5716

Chamberlains Quality Fish & Chips 8 Wolverhampton Road, Oldbury B68 0LH Tel: +44 (0) 1214297709


Open skies / January 2014

Mughal e Azam Stratford Road, Sparkhill B11 4DA Tel: +44 (0) 1217779348

mapped SEDAWATTA Kuise



Kita Ward

Osaka 04 Nishiyodogawa Ward

10 07 14




Fukushima Ward

Joto Ward

15 03 09 06 06

Konohana Ward

12 08

05 Imazato


Taisho ward

11 Nishinari Ward

Suminoe ward Tezukayama Nanko Dori Kaminoki


Hotels Restaurants Bars Galleries 1. The St. Regis Osaka 1. Zauo 1. The Four Seasons Sky Lounge 1. National Museum of Art (34.683317,With 135.501151) 135.506707) 135.532878)exactly be called picturesque. (34.691815, 135.492019) its mid-20th century (34.668535, high-rises and elevated highways,(34.690778, Osaka couldn’t

But International don’t write off Japan’s2.third largest city for its lack of scenic architecture. Located roughly2. an hour 2. Hotel Hankyu Fujiya 1935 2. The Old Imperial Bar Museum of Oriental Ceramics (34.708439,south 135.498486) (34.683036, 135.511948) 135.519469) 135.505425) of Kyoto by car on the main island of Honshu, Osaka is(34.700993, a thriving Kansai city, known for(34.693491, its friendly local and long 3.artistic food lovers, with abundant street food 3. Hotel New Otanicommunity Osaka Kashiwayahistory. It’s also a haven for 3. Manhattan Bar 3. Fujita Artstalls Museum 135.525242) (34.691030,and 135.532913) (34.6937378,restaurants. 135.5021651) (34.637081, close to 100 Michelin-starred Add in an array of top135.416297) museums, opulent hotel(34.694907, rooms and classic cocktail bars, and Osaka should feature highly on wish list. 4. Koryu Café Absinthe

4. The Ritz-Carlton, Osaka (34.698380, 135.492686)

(34.6686101, 135.49879)

(34.673332, 135.497122)

4. Contemporary Art Space Osaka (34.651144, 135.438133)





01. the st regis Osaka 02. Hotel Hankyu International 03. Hotel new Otani Osaka 04. the ritz-Carlton, Osaka

05. Zauo 06. Fujiya 1935 07. Kashiwaya 08. Koryu

09. the Four seasons sky Lounge 10. the Old Imperial bar 11. Manhattan bar 12. Café absinthe

13. national Museum of art 14. Museum of Oriental Ceramics 15. Fujita art Museum 16. Contemporary art space Osakat


Open skies / January 2014


HOteLs 01 The St Regis Osaka Located on Midosuji, Osaka’s grand boulevard, the St Regis Osaka defines luxury in part as spaciousness: in this high-density city, the rooms here are some of the largest to be found. Its oncall butler service completes the indulgent experience. 02

Hotel Hankyu International While its high-rise rooms provide some of the best views of Osaka’s neon lights and many waterways, Hotel Hankyu International’s European-influenced décor and on-site teppanyaki, sushi and tempura restaurants make it tempting to stay put. 03 Hotel New Otani Osaka Close to Osaka Castle, the riverside Hotel New Otani Osaka’s views are best appreciated from the vantage point of its outdoor pool. Massage services and a Finnish sauna also cater to those looking for rest and relaxation. 04 The Ritz-Carlton, Osaka With not one but two Michelinstarred restaurants on site, The Ritz-Carlton attracts flocks of food lovers. Set in the midst of the thriving Nishi-Umeda district, the hotel’s food haunts are complemented by a 450-piece art and antique collection.

HIGH-RISE / Osaka’s skyline is dominated by mid-20th century high-rises

restaurants 05 Zauo Zauo’s combination of light-hearted novelty and excellent cooking makes it enormously popular. A fish-filled pond sits in the middle of the dining room; diners are encouraged to catch their own diner before handing it over to the skilled chefs to prepare. 06

Fujiya 1935 The three Michelinstarred Fujiya 1935 is undoubtedly one of the city’s finest restaurants. Helmed by young chef Tetsuya Fujiwara, the restaurant’s fourth-



Open skies / January 2014

generation cook, the menu melds Japanese and European influences for extraordinarily delicate and accomplished cooking. 07 Kashiwaya Designed to look like a traditional teahouse, complete with sliding doors and rice paper screens, Kashiwaya serves just eight dishes at a time. Chef Hideaki Matsuo’s elegant menu has earned the restaurant Michelin acclaim. 08 Koryu One of the city’s most coveted tables, Koryu attracts diners from far and wide with its three Michelin stars, but offers just 12 seats. Those lucky enough to make it through the door will be treated to exceptional Japanese fare.



GaLLErIEs 13 National Museum of Art Crowned with a ground-level sculptural installation that merely hints at the breadth of its subterranean galleries below, the National Museum of Art is a destination for both Japanese and international contemporary art.

bars 09 The Four Seasons Sky Lounge Poised at the top of the Hotel New Otani Osaka, this sedate lounge’s views of the night time cityscape make it destination-worthy. Sample from seasonal, carefully crafted drinks like an autumn concoction that blends whisky and fresh persimmon. 10 The Old Imperial Bar Guests at this storied bar can relax in a setting inspired by the designs of Frank Lloyd Wright while sipping on their studiously mixed drinks. Complementing the bar’s wood panelling and intricate glasswork are regular silent film screenings. 11 Manhattan Bar A timeless hotel bar, outfitted in old-fashioned furnishings, the Manhattan Bar in the Hyatt Regency Osaka serves a range of classic cocktails. From French Connections to White Ladys, its drinks are prepared with precision.

12 Café Absinthe Those after a taste of beau monde can venture to this quirky Mediterranean bar, which, yes, does serve absinthe. Visit Wormwood, its basement VIP lounge with a separate bar area and guest DJs.



Open skies / January 2014

14 Museum of Oriental Ceramics One of the world’s top ceramics collections, the Museum of Oriental Ceramics teaches visitors about this traditional Asian craft. Including ancient and modern pieces from China, Korea, Japan and further afield, its works are studies in serenity. 15 Fujita Art Museum Comprising the personal art collection of a Meiji era merchant, the Fujita Art Museum holds more than 5,000 exhibits, including everything from ceramics and paintings to lacquer ware and calligraphy. 16 Contemporary Art Space Osaka A restored warehouse, Contemporary Art Space Osaka is one of the largest exhibition sites for contemporary art in all of Japan. The destination gallery’s varied shows highlight the country’s up-and-coming local artists.

Words: imaGes: Getty imaGes

SUPER HIGHWAY / Below osaka’s famous elevated highways you will find a host of cultural attractions and 100 michelin-starred restaurants


Book World

Bookshops, we are told, will soon go the way of the fax machine and the typewriter – archaic reminders of a pre-tablet, pre-wired age, when people used to (gasp) leave the house to buy books


t is ironic to see Book World located beside a Kodak Express shop, on Hudaiba Street in Satwa, Dubai (next door to that is an aquarium), given how printed film has gone the way many predict printed books will go. Yet there it still is, filled with

Words by Conor Purcell / Images by REM

more than 80,000 books, serving as both a shop and a library to the area and, according to the owner, as popular as ever. That owner is Bhisham Sainani, who opened Book World in 2002, to give his wife Leena something to do after their grown-up children went to the US. He and Leena now


Open skies / January 2014

run three stores (the other two are in Karama) and are looking to expand to Sheikh Zayed Road and Al Qusais. Step inside the Satwa branch and the first thing you notice is the smell – the wonderful musty aroma of printed pages, some more than 100 years old, which


TREASURE TROVE / Every inch of Book World is crammed with books and magazines on an impressive range of subjects

combined with the hum of the air conditioner, and the distant hum of traffic, give the shop an almost reverent air. The shop itself is gloriously cluttered, with new and secondhand books stacked along a row of sliding shelves, and boxes of unpacked books littering the floor. Upstairs is even more cramped,

a low ceiling and an L-shaped shoulder-high stack of books surrounded by shelves that look like they will topple over at the slightest touch. It feels like the attic of an older relative, musty, surprising and almost impossible to leave, books seemingly piled randomly on top of each other (a weathered Robert Ludlum thriller


Open skies / January 2014

underneath The Oxford Textbook of Medicine Volume 2). And it’s this randomness, this joy of the unexpected, which makes Book World such a pleasurable experience. And it’s the one thing that no algorithm can replicate – the unexpected. Some other titles: 50 Sensational Stirfries, Understand Existentialism,


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FREE SIM with £1/1€/ $1/10DDK credit Redeem your boarding pass to get your FREE SIM UK: WHSmith store at Heathrow or Manchester Arrivals Netherlands: Lebara stand at Schiphol airport (located in Schiphol Plaza) Australia: Lebara Stand at Sydney International airport (located at arrival exits AB & CD) Denmark: WHSmith store at Copenhagen Arrivals Australia | Denmark | France | Germany | Netherlands | Spain | UK


CLASSIC LIT/ Visitors to Book World will find a large selection of classic literature from across the globe

Geology Of The Aberdeen Area. Part of this eclecticism stems from the fact that Book World will buy second-hand books from its customers, as well as buying back (at 50 per cent of the original price) books previously bought from the shop. He is honest about the challenges of running a bookshop in 2013. “It’s hard to break even, but this is my passion, not my bread and butter,” he says. He is in fact a management consultant, although at 62, he is planning for his retirement. “When I retire, then the book shops will be my bread and butter – then I will sleep in the bookshop.” His expansion plans fit around

that – his goal being to target neighbourhoods with no existing bookshop or library. He sees the shops as much as a service as a business, partly due to the memories of being in bookshops with his children when they were young. “We could not always afford to buy books for them, and so now, I want to make sure the prices are low, so everyone can afford to buy a book.” For all the negative predictions made about traditional bricks and

When I retIre, then the book shops WIll be my bread and butter –then I WIll spleep In the bookshop 61

Open skies / January 2014

mortar bookshops, the statistics show that independent bookshops are thriving – with the rise of Amazon and e-readers threatening the bigger chains. The number of independent outlets in the US has grown every year since 2009, offering things that can’t be replicated online. Personal touches for one. An A4-size piece of paper hangs on one of the downstairs bookshelves, offering an in-depth analyses of the different thriller writers on sale, explaining which writers focus on “suspicious or unnatural deaths investigated by pathologists or other medical professionals”, and which authors write about “serial killers with no rational motives for murder.” The fact sheet was written by Bhisham’s daughter – now living in Chicago – who, at age 12, was writing for a local Dubai newspaper.

LOCAL KNOwLEDGE My children tell Me i aM a stone age Man, and i agree. i think Most of the new technology is just a way to show off, nothing More Elsewhere hand-made signs point out where the different genres are located (Filipino pocketbooks, general knowledge, feng shui), and inspirational phrases dot the walls: ‘Reading is to the Mind, What Exercise is to the Body’, and ‘Do You Want to Find Out Anything in the Whole Wide World? Ask Your Librarian.’ THE INDEPENDENT/ Book World owner Bhisham Sainani (below) runs three indendent bookshops in Dubai and bemoans the prevalence of chain stores in the city

As for the rise of the e-reader, Bhisham is not worried. “Our customers cannot afford e-readers, so we have not really been affected. We sell books for as low as Dhs3, and most of the customers want the hard copies.” He is equally sanguine about the future. “This will never stop. In 50 years, people will still be reading paper books. Some may go to e-readers, but they come back again. I tell them that they can have a vitamin after their dinner, but you cannot replace your dinner with a vitamin, and you know, paper books are the true food.” He himself is not overly enamoured with technology of any sort, owning one laptop and a Nokia phone he has had for 15 years. Although Book World has a Facebook page (748 likes), Bhisham claims to have never used the site, and keeps up to date with current affairs by reading local UAE newspapers Gulf News and


Open skies / January 2014

Khaleej Times, both of which he has bought for the past 25 years. “My children tell me I am a Stone Age man, and I agree,” he says. “I think most of the new technology is just a way to show off, nothing more.” As for his own literary tastes, they are also somewhat set in stone. “Deepak Chopra, Steven Covey, Robin Peters, Steve Jobs, all of these types of books I have used throughout my career, and they have helped me a lot,” he says. When he does retire in a few years and dedicate himself entirely to his bookshops, we can expect to see more titles, more branches, and more evidence that the printed word is not dead yet. As Bisham says, “we know some bookshops are in trouble, but printed books, they are going nowhere.” Al Hudaiba Street Satwa, Dubai Tel: +971 (0)4 3491914


Open skies / January 2014


Duoyishu Rice Terraces / Yuanyang


Built 2,500 years ago by the Hani people, the rice terraces of Yuanyang County in southern China form an astounding landscape, and they are still being used by the local people to grow rice today. Covering more than 600 acres, the Duoyishu Rice Terraces, located on the southern slopes of Ailao Mountain, are considered to be the most breath-taking in the area. Make sure to visit during sunrise, when the water irrigating the fields reflects the light, changing colour as the sun comes up.


Open skies / January 2014

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Jack Nicholson’s Greatest Movie The story of the making of Roman Polanski’s Chintown




OUR MAN IN: Former alpine skier and fashion designer Willy Bogner on his life in Munich ............................76 NEW YORK + LONDON: A selection of unique photographs of two of the world’s greatest cities...........................82

N I C H O L S O N ’ S G R E A T E S T M O V I E

H o l ly w o o d s ta r J a c k N i c H o l s o N , w H o r e t i r e d f r o m ac t i N g l at e l ast y e a r , Has beeN makiNg movies siNce tHe 1 9 5 0 s , b u t, a r g u e s a da m s m i t H , H i s p o r t r aya l o f p r i vat e i N v e s t i g at o r J J g i t t e s i N 1 9 7 4 ’ s c H i N ato w N was a career-defiNiNg role

tHe director / Roman Polanski, one of the world’s most acclaimed directors, on the set of Chinatown, perhaps his masterpiece

tHe writer / Writer Robert Towne won the Best Original Screenplay Oscar for Chinatown

“Where’s Jack?” It is the late autumn of 1973, the end of a long day on a Hollywood sound-stage, and the man asking the question is Roman Polanski, the celebrated director of, among other critically acclaimed movies, Rosemary’s Baby and Macbeth. The Jack in question is Jack Nicholson, star of the film the celebrated director is shooting, who is, it seems, nowhere to be found. Nobody is willing to answer Polanski. “Where’s Jack?” he repeats. The first assistant director, whose job on a film-set is to ensure actors are on set for their scenes, finally, and reluctantly, answers. “Roman, he’s watching basketball in his trailer. It’s the Lakers…” It has been a vexing afternoon. Polanski, displaying his infamous perfectionism, has been obsessing over how the light filters through a set of Venetian blinds. Hour after hour has passed, lamps have been changed, blinds have been substituted, and nothing has been shot. Now the crew is edging into ruinous double overtime, and he needs to call action. “Get to the set!” yells Polanski, storming into Nicholson’s trailer. Nicholson, frustrated at having been messed around for hours, indicates in brusque fashion that the working day is over, and that he will do no such thing. He resumes watching his beloved basketball team. Grabbing a nearby metal pole, Polanski belts the screen as hard as he can, which is not, it turns out, hard enough to smash it. Nicholson explodes and begins pulling off his costume, flinging items of clothing at the incandescent director. Then, wearing not much more than his underpants, he storms


off to his car and roars off into the Hollywood night. Polanski, now a five-foot-five-inch mountain of Polish fury, glowers, turns and himself hurtles off the set. It is just another day shooting Chinatown. But if the making of Chinatown was typified by angst and arguments, what emerged from the chaos was well worth the agony. Chinatown is one of the most perfect movies ever to come out of Hollywood. A sinuously plotted noir, played out in the most limpid of Californian sunlight yet shot through with a streak of tragedy as pitch black as the tar at La Brea, it is an endless, beguiling delight that rewards viewing after viewing. Like all classic movies, it is the result of both outrageous luck and a rare fusion of diverse talents: Polanski’s gimlet directorial eye, an all but perfectly structured screenplay by Robert Towne and the patient nurturing of a producer of brilliance, Robert Evans. But beating at the dark heart of Chinatown is Jack Nicholson, giving the performance of his career. Chinatown had its roots in screenwriter Robert Towne’s inability to get another screenplay he had written, The Last Detail, off the ground. Towne was a handsome, intense man, a notorious perfectionist and, in his late 30s at the time, he was becoming worried that his career was permanently stalled. Though his name was known and respected around Hollywood as a ‘script doctor’ – one of the writers who are brought in anonymously to fix other writers’ scripts – for his work on Bonnie And Clyde and The Godfather, among others, his attempts to forge a career as a ‘name’ screenwriter and, finally, a director had been going nowhere fast.

Open skies / January 2014


Open skies / January 2014

The Last Detail, set to be directed by Hal Ashby and star his old room-mate Jack Nicholson, was struggling to be made partly because of its profane language, which Towne, typically, refused to dilute; a desperate executive at one point pleading unsuccessfully with the writer to halve the number of times a certain expletive was repeated in the script. One day, as The Last Detail remained in limbo, a photo-feature in LA Times Magazine caught his eye. The aim had been to recreate the lost Los Angeles of the 1930s. Something about the photography intrigued him. “There was a shot of a Plymouth convertible under one of those old street-lamps, another of the old railway station downtown,” he remembered. A few days later he took a walk in the hills. Looking down on the city below, he felt an intense sadness, and a nostalgia for the old Los Angeles. He recalled a comment a retired cop had once made to him about the inhabitants of Los Angeles’ Chinatown. “They run their own business there,” the cop had said. There was no use an outsider even trying to understand what was going on. These moods and images coalesced in Towne’s mind. Finally, he went to


Jack Nicholson, who was equally frustrated by the lack of progress on The Last Detail. “What about I write a private eye-movie for you?” he asked. Nicholson approved, and Towne began to ponder a plot. Right at the heart of the film then, from its very conception, is Nicholson; his attitude, his presence, his style. “I wrote the part of [private detective] JJ Gittes for him, in his voice, so to speak,” Towne said in a later interview. “We’d been close friends for a long time. In a very real sense we were collaborators. The character you’re writing and the actor you’re imagining become the same person in your mind. Jake Gittes handles people the same way Jack does. Alternately intimidating and coaxing. Jack really was Gittes.” Towne would toil for almost a year on the screenplay, which finally emerged at a mammoth 180 pages. Almost two-thirds longer than an average movie script, it was layered with sub-plots and packed with incidental characters. First to read it would be producer Robert Evans. Evans was, and is, one of Hollywood’s most intriguing characters. A former actor himself,

Open skies / January 2014

with an eventful private life, he had wound up at Paramount Pictures where, under the mercurial figure of Paramount boss Charles ‘Charlie’ Bluhdorn, he had been given almost free reign to make the kind of pictures he wanted to. Evans loved the idea of Chinatown, perhaps more than he did the actual script – he couldn’t make head nor tail of the plot, mischievously describing it as “pure Chinese”. But the mood of the thing, and the idea of Nicholson as a private detective was, he thought, a winner. Towne had wanted to direct the picture himself, but Evans had other ideas. “We’re not a Roger Corman outfit here,” he said, referring to the low-budget exploitation director known for giving directors such as Francis Ford Coppola their first breaks. “This thing is going to cost some big bucks.” Towne reluctantly acquiesced. Evans meanwhile scheduled a call to Paris. He had just the guy in mind. Roman Polanski had fled Los Angeles for Europe four years earlier, and had no intention of going back. He was still grieving the murder of his wife, Sharon Tate, but Evans worked his huckster magic, promising Polanski complete creative control. Polanski himself had

weathered a number of flops and knew that he needed a hit if he was to continue as a director. He boarded a plane for Los Angeles to meet Towne. Which is when the arguing began. Like Evans, Polanski could see the incredible strengths of Towne’s screenplay, its densely packed allegory, thick period atmosphere and punchy dialogue, but believed that, in its original form, it was completely unshootable. For a start it needed to lose at least 50 pages. Whole subplots and characters needed to be trimmed, the overly complex story simplified. Towne, perhaps understandably, couldn’t see much wrong with it. The two holed up in a sweltering summer house for two months, Polanski torturing the writer with his demands for more cuts, while Towne took his revenge by filling the place with pipe-smoke, and bringing his dog, a shaggy mutt called Hira, to work. “The dog would lay on my feet drooling in this hot room,” Polanski later told journalist Peter Biskind, “while Bob fought for every line of dialogue as if it were carved in marble.” Nothing divided the two more than the subject of the ending. Towne had written what Polanski considered to be a ‘Hollywood’ end-


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hairy situation / Jack Nicholson’s JJ Gittes screams at a fellow barber shop customer in a scene from Chinatown Co-stars / Chinatown’s co-stars, Jack Nicholson (JJ Gittes) and Faye Dunaway (Evelyn Mulwray), both clashed with the movie’s director, Roman Polanski, during filming

ing, in which the bad guy is slain and the moral rot at the heart of the picture at least partly excised. His version ended with a snowfall and Evelyn, the femme fatale, in Gittes’ arms. Polanski was determined that the film should conclude bleakly with the girl dead and Gittes impotent to help. In his universe there was no closure, nor happy endings. “I thought this was a serious movie, not an adventure story for the kids,” was his view. “Roman’s argument was, that’s life. Beautiful blondes die in Los Angeles,” Towne said. “After all, Sharon had.” The two would never agree on the subject, Towne much later still referring to the Polanski ending, which triumphed, as “the tunnel at the end of the light”. Casting-wise, Nicholson was a given. After all, the film wouldn’t have been written without him. He had been as impressed by the screenplay, especially after the revisions, as everybody else. And Polanski approved of him, having been friends with the actor since he had auditioned for the role of the husband in Rosemary’s Baby (the director had finally rejected him for being too ‘sinister’ a presence, who might have tipped the audience off to the film’s secret too


early). But the character of Evelyn, the mysterious femme fatale, was trickier. Evans had previously pencilled-in his then wife, Ali McGraw, for the role, but she subsequently ruled herself out – principally by running off with Steve McQueen. Jane Fonda had the right box office profile and dramatic froideur, but felt that the part was underwritten, and too much in the shadow of Nicholson, and declined. That left Faye Dunaway on the list. Dunaway needed a hit, but Evans warned Polanski she had a reputation for being impossible. “Maybe she won’t be impossible for me,” the director said, optimistically as it turned out. Evans put in a call to Sue Mengers, the actress’s agent. “Jane Fonda is the studio’s choice,” he lied, knowing that Fonda had already rejected the part. “But I prefer Dunaway.” Mengers, appalled at his low offer, US$50,000 compared to Nicholson’s US$300,000, announced that Dunaway was already attached to Arthur Penn’s thriller Night Moves and would need a generous cheque to lure her away. Also a lie. Eventually, the two settled on a pay packet of US$75,000. “All the

Open skies / January 2014

usual Hollywood lying and deceit,” Evans wrote later. “And Sue was one of my best friends.” With the anguishing rewrites completed, Polanski was ready to shoot. But the pain was far from over. Filming began in the autumn of 1973 in various locations across Los Angeles, as well as on the Paramount lot, and tensions flared almost immediately. Accustomed to what Peter Biskind refers to as the American ‘warm bath’ style of direction, in which the actors’ individual views and feelings are sought and prized by the director, they were shocked by Polanski’s rough and abrupt style. He was not above reading the actors’ lines for them to illustrate how he wanted it done, a distinct no-no on an American set, or pulling them around to show them how to move. Nicholson, more used to the European style of direction, having just finished filming Antonio Antonioni’s The Passenger, bore the professional humiliation stoically for the most part. But Dunaway and Polanski clashed ferociously from the get-go. Particularly irritating to Polanski was her insistence on discussing every line, and the motivation for Evelyn’s actions. Polanski, though, just yelled at her to say her lines. “He kept saying just do it the way you feel,” she said. “What was I meant to do? Read his mind?”. On one occasion, when she queried a scene yet again, Polanski snapped, screaming at her that it was her fee that should motivate her. Things came to a head while Polanski was shooting a scene that was particularly difficult for Dunaway. A stray hair on the actress’s head kept floating around, ruining the shot. Angrily, and without thinking, the director marched over and simply yanked it out of her head. Dunaway screamed and stormed to her trailer. It took the involvement of her agent, a grudging apology from Polanski and Evans giving her a three-week break to prevent her quitting the movie. She barely spoke to Polanski again. After filming had ended, the director was unrepentant. “To me actors are chess-pieces to be moved around,” he later said, shrugging off the incident. “I think that [actress] was completely neurotic anyway.” And he had more than his actors to worry about. Early on, his cinematographer, the legendary Stanley Cortez, who had shot classics such as Orson Welles’s The Magnificent Ambersons and Charles Laughton’s The Night Of The Hunter, disagreed over how to shoot Dunaway, and the relatively inexperienced

John Alonzo replaced him. It turned out to be a masterstroke, Alonzo bringing an ochrehued, slightly dreamy feel to the picture, for which he received an Academy Award nomination. Equally, the score, by Phillip Lambro, was rejected at the last minute by Evans, and Jerry Goldsmith was given just 10 days to compose and record the haunting, longing-infused music. Goldsmith was also nominated for an Academy Award. Chinatown was released in the summer of 1974 to almost unanimously ecstatic reviews, was nominated for no fewer than 11 Academy Awards (shamefully winning only one, for Towne’s screenplay) and its reputation has done nothing but improve ever since. For Nicholson, Chinatown represented a turning point. Shortly after the movie came out, he made the pilgrimage to Mann’s Chinese Theatre and laid his hands in the wet concrete, the 159th person to do so and thus be inducted into the Hollywood Walk of Fame. He was now, indubitably, a star. But it also defined the kind of roles that he would be most successful at, and remembered for. In the 1990s, he had the minor misfortune of being adopted by the lads’ mag yahoos, who fixated on his admittedly exciting party lifestyle, as a kind of unofficial patron saint. In fact, Nicholson at his best is about the failure of machismo, of male potency neutralised. The final shot in Chinatown, of Gittes looking on as catastrophe unfolds, powerless to stop it, would be echoed in The Shining, with Nicholson’s Jack Torrence frozen in the snow, and in One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest, as his lobotomised McMurphy stares blankly at the camera. In his best subsequent cop movie, Sean Penn’s The Pledge, Nicholson is driven insane by his inability to keep his promise to solve the case of a murdered child. At his best, and most moving, he is the alpha male unmanned, the pack leader cast out. Earlier this year, Nicholson quietly announced his retirement from feature films. He blamed a lack of quality screenplays, though others said that his age was taking its toll on his memory. “I don’t think I’ll work again until the day that I die,” he told Britain’s The Sun newspaper. Maybe, with luck, he’ll be persuaded otherwise. A Hollywood without Jack, his vulpine grin, his dark, irrepressible energy, will be one diminished. But even if he doesn’t appear on screen again, to misquote another classic, we’ll always have Chinatown.


Open skies / January 2014

NOSEYPARKER / Jack Nicholson’s private eye JJ Gittes sporting several plasters after his nose is slashed by a stranger (played by Polanski) with a knife who accuses him of being nosy

WILLY BOGNER Former Alpine ski racer/fashion designer, 71



The former world-class alpine skier, who worked as a cameraman on James Bond films in the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s, and continues to run his family’s sportswear company, Bogner, travels a lot but always looks forward to returning home to Munich


was born and grew up in Munich, close to the Alps. My father was a sports guy: a cross-country skier on the German Olympic team. My mother was from the north, and her father was a publisher. So I had these two influences from the beginning: one from the sports side and the other full of style and creativity. When my mother went skiing with my father she didn’t like the outfits she was supposed to wear. She would ask for something more feminine, but it didn’t exist. So she took it into her own hands. She cut off the lower part of the skiing anorak and turned it into a belt so she had a different silhouette, and people appreciated what she had done. My father had a little shop where he sold skis, but it was very equipment orientated. They started to sell my mother’s skiwear, and the combination of sport and style, which is still the focus of our family business [Bogner] today, was born. Today Bogner is 81 years old, and our annual turnover is half a billion. We are still 100 per cent family owned. As well as following my father into the family business, I also became a sports guy. Mainly in downhill skiing with a bit of slalom, because I was too lazy and

too chicken to do cross-country or jumping. But I was lucky enough to make the German team. I was also able to take a path through life that has brought out my different talents. I went to university and then textile business school, which gave me an understanding of the industrial side of fashion. But I was also interested in photography and film, so I wasn’t sure for a while which direction I should go in. I finally decided to do both. Because fashion gave me the financial freedom to create the films I was passionate about, I had a lot of opportunities to experiment with techniques and push the boundaries of skiing in film. In 1964 I did my first feature film, Ski Fascination, where I wanted to show the sport as an art form and go beyond its competitive side. I had the vision of combining music to create choreographed skiing, as I see skiing as a wonderful dance. I thought, “How can I bring music to the slopes?” I brought my cassette player with headphones, and it sat in a pocket around your waist. I sold a few of them actually. That was three years before the Walkman. I should have stuck with it. It was a fun time. I was lucky enough to get Benny Golson – a great jazz player – to write the score. It was a different approach to the usual sports films. It was very aesthetic but we also had some crazy, fun scenes.


Open skies / January 2014


family businesss / Bogner with his parents and brother (top left). The family sports equipment company, Bogner, was started in 1932 360 degrees / Bogner used a hat with 10 HD cameras attached (bottom left) to create a film that required the audience to spin around on stools to view it James bOnd / Bogner worked as a camera man on four Bond films (right): On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, The Spy Who Loved Me, For Your Eyes Only and A View to a Kill

These scenes were spotted by the James Bond people, and they called me and asked if I wanted to work with them. I thought they were joking. At the time they were the biggest and most successful feature film company in the world, and I was an amateur. I’d never been to film school and had just finished my first film. Obviously I jumped at the opportunity. The scenes I shot were quite successful, and I got the chance to do three more Bond movies. Not only as the cameraman but I also got to write some scenes, which was a great chance for me to create really daring action sequences. Roger Moore became a good friend, and he also starred in one of my films, Fire, Ice and Dynamite (1990). In 2001, I made the film Ski To The Max for Imax cinema. We made it with a 65mm camera. It’s very big and really heavy, but for a filmmaker to have that screen, 100ft wide and 50ft high, is a dream. It gave me the opportunity to show the majesty and danger of the mountains. I think it was the first sports film on Imax. After Imax I was looking for a new challenge. They have new cinemas in Vegas with 360-degree images. And I thought, ‘Why don’t I use these small HD cameras and put 10 of them on my helmet so I can create 360 degree view?’ It was very new at the time, and it needed so much computing power to put these 10 films together. So we took the film to one of the big fashion and


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sports shows. We had 12 projectors and 30 people in the middle on stools where they could spin around. It’s a completely new experience. Everybody was always spinning. It was really funny because you couldn’t see it all at once. With surround sound you could locate where the sound was coming from, and now you can experience that visually as well. It’s going to be huge, as it’s a really fantastic visual experience. I can’t wait for the first 5D cinema. I feel lucky to be part of the human species and to enjoy all the possibilities that we have as humans. I was born more or less after the war in 1942, so I was three years old when the bomb attacks on Munich happened. I remember as a child being very scared in the cellar when the bombs were falling. After the war, 60 per cent of the city was destroyed. They made a law that you couldn’t build higher than the original buildings, so compared to other German cities it has a low skyline. So you have still a small town look in the city centre. And we have many styles of buildings that were restored very well, so we kept a sense of history. It is a city where the king resided, so there are castles in the centre of town, which gives a sense of opulence, but it’s not overpowering. Munich is a beautiful city and it hasn’t been built up too much. You don’t have to travel very far to get to unspoilt nature; wild lakes and the Alps are just a few hours away. As I travel a lot it’s always great to come back home. People joke we are the northernmost Italian city ,as we have more than 300 Italian restaurants in Munich. We all like Italian food, and you can get everything from a ROYAL CITY/ really good, simple pizza Formerly home to to very chic high-end kings, Munich still cuisine. You can easily has a number of royal palaces , such as Prince spend 200 days here Carl Palace (pictured) and eat out well every day. The Alba Italian restaurant is very nice. It’s not too big, with a nice garden, a great Italian atmosphere LOW-RIse/ After the Second and excellent cooking. Not too fancy, just good food and nice people. If you want World War 60 per cent something very Bavarian, there’s the Franziskaner, a very traditional Bavarian place. of Munich had to be I like to go there. It’s just three houses away from our shop. There’s also a great restored, but Bogner Japanese restaurant, Jin. It’s difficult to find good Japanese cuisine but they seem to believes it “kept a sense of history” be able to source all the right ingredients. It’s a great city with everything you need from around the world, but it hasn’t lost LeIsURe TIMe / its local character. We have a nice mixture of people here; the Münchner people are Munich is just a few very down to earth and have unique Bavarian taste with regards to food, looks and hours away from the Bavarian Alps dress. It’s a great place to live.


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new york + London

P h oto g r a P h e r da n i e L L a Z a L c m a n describes the series from which these i m ag e s a r e ta k e n a s “a L ov e L e t t e r to t wo b e au t i f u L c i t i e s �

In November 2012, I moved across the Atlantic. New York had been my home for seven years. I belonged to New York. It was, and always will be, my city. But then I arrived in London and fell in love. It was thrilling to hunt for all the little differences between the two cities, and comforting to find moments of familiarity. Soon, London felt like home as well. In my final weeks in New York, I found myself taking iPhone snapshots of my city with renewed vigor, as if I had to solidify every memory, every street corner, before I left. In London, I was just as enthusiastic as I discovered the city through the eyes of a tourist. So it seemed natural, using a handful of smartphone apps, to start making composites with an image from each place. The resulting images are part New York, part London, and collectively represent my vision of home. In film photography, double exposures are the product of two photos being blindly exposed onto the same negative. It’s a delicate, often random process with hit-or-miss results. But digital techniques make for more deliberate manipulation. Here, each pair of images is selected based on negative space, colour and contrast; for every New York + London image you see, I rejected a dozen versions that didn’t feel quite right. New York + London explores place, memory, and identity through architecture and nostalgia. Brooklyn Bridge Park meets Leicester Square. Whitehall meets the South Bronx. The High Line meets Knightsbridge. After a while, the cacophony of concrete and street life begins to blend into something more universal. My hope is that in the noise and silence, everyone will find something that feels like home.


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WORLD EXPO 2020 Dubai has won its bid to host the World Expo 2020



briefing DUBAI SHOPPING FESITVAL: DSF celebrates its 19th year A380: Emirates launches new A380 routes ROUTEmAP: Discover the world as connected by Emirates


Open skies / January 2014

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news UAE to host World Expo 2020

thE UnitEd ArAb EmirAtEs hAs sUccEssfUlly Won its bid to host thE World Expo 2020, which will

be the first World Expo to be held in the Middle East. With the theme of ‘Connecting Minds, Creating the Future’, the UAE aims to generate an environment that will foster

new partnerships for growth and sustainability. Emirates Airline is proud to be a Premier Partner of the World Expo 2020. Ever since The Great Exhibition of 1851, World Expos have sought to bring together the best in global technological advances,


Open skies / January 2014

cultural traditions and diversity and intercultural connection. Held every five years, the next Expo will be held in Milan, Italy in 2015 before preparations are made for Dubai to host the global extravaganza in six years’ time.


news DSF celebrateS 19th anniverSary

Dubai Shopping FeStival (DSF) celebrateS itS 19th year thiS month.

The 32-day shopping and entertainment festival, which runs from January 2 to February 2, is offering a range of events and for all ages with its ‘shop at your best’ theme. The festival has been growing year on year, attracting 4.3 million visitors in 2012, and this year DSF is giving away US$27 million worth of prizes, including luxury cars, gold and cash. For all the latest information, including an interactive map of the best places to bag yourself a bargain as well as an events guide, head to the website.

Perfect timing Don’t miss your next Emirates flight. Make sure you get to your boarding gate on time. Boarding starts 45 minutes before your flight and gates close 20 minutes before departure. If you report late we will not be able to accept you for travel. Thank you for your cooperation.


Open skies / January 2014

Book Your Seat At One Of The World’s Top Six Gourmet Events!

c* Cyril Ligna

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From February 4-19 They’re At The Top Of Their Game & They’re Coming To The UAE Capital This February Join the Mega Stars Of The Culinary World Entertain & Be Entertained At This World-Ranking Festival Cyril Lignac* This TV personality and Michelin-starred chef will demonstrate cooking techniques from the world’s leading culinary destination. Chat with Chef Cyril and find out what inspires him. Monday, 10 February | Nautilus, Yas Viceroy Abu Dhabi

Christophe Muller *** Let the executive chef of Paul Bocuse induct you in the ways of stellar culinary traditions. See how this up-and-coming, innovative professional does it! Wednesday, 12 February | La Mer, Sofitel Abu Dhabi Corniche.

Fabio Pisani ** See this master of plate presentation demonstrate how to make culinary creations incredibly inviting. Discover how this Italian maestro makes every dish enliven the senses for a truly unforgettable epicurean experience. Monday, 17 February | Bocca, Hilton Abu Dhabi

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HEALTHY AND DELICIOUS DINING - THAI STYLE Thai food has rapidly grown in popularity among casual dinners and gourmets alike, earning it a status as one of the world’s most popular cuisines.

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news New A380 routes for 2014 with December's lAuNches of emirAtes A380 services DAily to los ANgeles AND mAuritius,

Emirates is further extending its super-jumbo jet network in 2014. From January 1, Emirates will fly the A380 daily to Zurich. The route, served twice daily by Emirates, will see EK 087 from Dubai to Zurich and its return sector EK 088 operated by the double-decker aircraft. Emirates daily service to Barcelona will be expanded from its current Boeing 777-300ER service to the Airbus A380 from February 1, adding an additional 2,198 seats per week between Dubai and Barcelona. Emirates will be the first permanent A380 service to operate into Barcelona’s El Prat Airport. From March 30, Emirates’ double-daily Munich route will become an all-A380 service. Emirates currently operates one daily A380 service to the German city, with the second flight serviced by a Boeing 777-300ER.


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news city guide: Moscow

tHe russian caPital Has seen More tHan its fair sHare of troubled tiMes, and while the

imposing sights of the Kremlin and images of soldiers marching through Red Square might come to mind, the city is casting away its turbulent past and basking in a more jubilant present like many of its European counterparts. Modern day Moscow is awash with creative happenings from pop-up art galleries to award-winning restaurants. Wander around the streets and you can delve into its intriguing history while also experiencing the city’s new and exciting cultural revolution.

Moscow kreMlin

bolsHoi tHeatre

The one square kilometre site is the seat of Russian power, and has been since the second century BC. More commonly known simply as ‘the Kremlin’, it is part fortress, part citadel. The imposing site contains five palaces and four cathedrals, as well as housing museums and government buildings. Check out the Armoury building, which dates back to the early 16th century, and marvel at Ivan the Great Bell Tower, which is said to be the centremost point of the city.

Ballet enthusiasts from all over the world will know this as a centre of ballet excellence. The current building, with its pink and white façade, stands on the site of the original Petrovka Theatre, and is neighboured by two other grand theatres. Take a glance inside and imagine watching Swan Lake or The Nutcracker, both of which had their world premieres in the theatre. This famed company is still the biggest in the world, with more 200 dancers.

red square

sanduny batHHouses

Perhaps the most famous sight in Russia, Red Square is not and never has been red in colour. Its cobbles are black and were whitewashed at various periods throughout its history. It is thought that the name actually comes from the Russian words for ‘beautiful’, the word for ‘red’ being the same. Standing in the middle of the square one is surrounded by history and beauty: the wonderfully eccentric domes of St. Basil’s Cathedral, Lenin’s Mausoleum, the walls of the Kremlin and the State Historical Museum with its bright red towers enclose the square.

The 200-year-old Sanduny Bathhouses is the largest bathhouse in Moscow and contains both public baths and private rooms, including three men’s and two women’s bathing sections. The main pool has been used in many feature films and the baths often host influential and well-known guests, who come to escape from the city’s hustle and bustle. Emirates flies to Moscow twice daily from Dubai, including one daily A380 service

PoPulation: Estimated at more than 11,503,501 language: Russian currency: Russian Rouble or рубль cliMate: Humid Continental Historical fact: Moscow is actually named after its river, гра́д Моско́в, in old Russian. Most faMous citizen: Fyodor Dostoevsky, writer wHat is Moscow faMous for? It is a hub for performing and visual arts with world-renowned ballet schools and circuses. did you know? Moscow is home to 64 billionaires, more than any other city in the world after New York. wHat to eat: Borshch, a stew made from beetroot, vegetables and meat.


Open skies / January 2014




Wellness in the air

To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you to enjoy your journey and time on board with Emirates today.

smart traveller

Drink plentY of Water Rehydrate with water or juices frequently. Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

travel lightlY Carry only the essential items that you will need during your flight.

Before Your JourneY Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition. Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications? Get a good night’s rest before the flight. Eat lightly and sensibly.

Wear glasses Cabin air is drier than normal, therefore swap your contact lenses for glasses.

at the airport Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in. Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress. Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

use skin moisturiser Apply a good quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.

keep moving exercise your lower legs and calf muscles. This encourages blood flow.

During the flight Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent. Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy. Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently. Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.


Open skies / January 2014

make Yourself comfortaBle Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.

When You arrive Try some light exercise, or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.

Your home in Dubai

‫ﻳﻘﻊ ﺍﻟﻔﻨﺪﻕ ﻓﻰ ﻗﻠﺐ ﺇﻣﺎﺭﺓ ﺩﺑﻲ‬

Located in the heart of Dubai

‫ﺃﻣﺎﻡ ﻣﺤﻄﺔ ﺍﳌﺘﺮﻭ‬

Opposite Metro Station Walking distance to Burj Khalifa, world’s tallest skyscraper Dubai Airport - 15 min. Abu Dhabi Airport - 45 min. Walking distance to shopping malls Close to Business Hubs ( DIFC, DWTC ) Spa & Outdoor Swimming Pool

US$150 Starting Rate. Terms and conditions apply

‫ﺑﻴﺘﻚ ﻓﻰ ﺩﺑﻲ‬

‫ ﺃﻃﻮﻝ ﺑﺮﺝ ﻓﻰ ﺍﻟﻌﺎﻟﻢ‬، ‫ﻣﺴﺎﻓﺔ ﻗﺼﻴﺮﺓ ﺇﻟﻰ ﺑﺮﺝ ﺧﻠﻴﻔﺔ‬

‫ ﺩﻗﻴﻘﺔ‬15 ‫ﻣﻄﺎﺭ ﺩﺑﻲ ﻋﻠﻲ ﺑﻌﺪ‬

‫ ﺩﻗﻴﻘﺔ‬45 ‫ﻣﻄﺎﺭ ﺃﺑﻮ ﻇﺒﻲ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺑﻌﺪ‬ ‫ﻣﺴﺎﻓﺔ ﻗﺼﻴﺮﺓ ﳌﺮﺍﻛﺰ ﺍﻟﺘﺴﻮﻕ‬ ( ‫ ﻣﺮﻛﺰ ﺩﺑﻲ ﺍﻟﺘﺠﺎﺭﻱ ﺍﻟﻌﺎﳌﻲ‬،‫ﻗﺮﻳﺐ ﻣﻦ ﻣﺮﺍﻛﺰ ﺍﻷﻋﻤﺎﻝ ) ﻣﺮﻛﺰ ﺩﺑﻲ ﺍﻟﻌﺎﳌﻲ‬

‫ﺳﺒﺎ ﻭﺣﻤﺎﻡ ﺳﺒﺎﺣﺔ ﺧﺎﺭﺟﻲ‬

.‫ ﺩﻭﻻﺭ‬150 ‫ﺗﺒﺪﺃ ﺍﻻﺳﻌﺎﺭ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ﺗﻄﺒﻖ ﺍﻟﺸﺮﻭﻁ ﻭﺍﻷﺣﻜﺎﻡ‬

Sheikh Zayed Road, P.O Box 116957, Dubai, United Arab Emirates Tel: +971 4 323 0000 Fax: +971 4 323 0003


VISAS & STATS Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle free as possible.


electronic system for travel authorisation (esta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Programme, You must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure.

esta facts:

All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending. A successful ESTA application is valid for two years, however this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.

apply online at www.cbp.Gov/esta nationalities eliGible for the visa waiver*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, latvia, liechtenstein, lithuania, luxemburg, malta, monaco, The netherlands, new Zealand, norway, Portugal, San marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**

* subject to chanGe ** only british citizens qualify under the visa waiver proGramme.


Open skies / January 2014

THE PROCESS HOW TO USE THE SMART GATES AT DUBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT If you are a citizen of one of the countries that does not require a pre-arranged visa to enter the UAE (see the list below), or are a UAE resident, you can speed up your journey through Dubai International Airport by using the Smart Gates.

STEP ONE Look for the Smart Gates at passport control and have your national ID card, E-Gate card or machine-readable passport ready to be scanned.


STEP TWO Open your passport at the photo page and place it photo-side down on the scanner. Alternatively, if you are a UAE resident you can scan your UAE national ID card by placing it in the ID scanner.

*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens require a visa) Both residents and tourists who hold a passport with a barcode that can be scanned by the Smart Gates’ e-reader, including children above the age of seven, can check in and out of the airport within seconds – with no passport stamps. The automatic identification system uses an iris scan and facial recognition.

STEP THREE Next, place your index finger on the fingerprint scanner. OK!

Passengers who hold passports without e-readable barcodes can use the the immigration counter to complete their entry or exit process.

WHERE YOU CAN FIND THE SMART GATES The Smart Gates are located on either side of the counters in the Immigration Hall, Concourse B.



STEP FOUR Stand in the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and remain still for your iris scan. Wait until the system matches your photograph and your facial imprint before continuing through the gate.





Kiev: from January 16, 2014 Taipei: from February 10, 2014 Boston: from March 10, 2014



• • • • • • • •

Contract Drafting & Review Business Setup , Offshore & Free Zone Companies Corporate & Commercial Legal Services Litigation & Arbitration Debt Collection Banking, Insurance & Maritime Cases Real Estate, Construction & Labor Cases Trademarks, Patents & Copyrights

‫ﺻﻴﺎﻏﺔ ﺍﻟﻌﻘﻮﺩ ﻭﻣﺮﺍﺟﻌﺘﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﺗﺄﺳﻴﺲ ﺍﻟﺸﺮﻛﺎﺕ ﻭﺍﻷﻭﻓﺸﻮﺭ ﻭﺍﳌﻨﺎﻃﻖ ﺍﳊﺮﺓ‬ ‫ﺍﳋﺪﻣﺎﺕ ﺍﻟﻘﺎﻧﻮﻧﻴﺔ ﻟﻸﻓﺮﺍﺩ ﻭﺍﻟﺸﺮﻛﺎﺕ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﺘﻘﺎﺿﻲ ﻭ ﺍﻟﺘﺤﻜﻴﻢ‬ ‫ﲢﺼﻴﻞ ﺍﻟﺪﻳﻮﻥ‬ ‫ﻗﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﺒﻨﻮﻙ ﻭﺍﻟﺘﺄﻣﲔ ﻭﺍﻟﻘﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﺒﺤﺮﻳﺔ‬ ‫ﻗﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﳌﻘﺎﻭﻻﺕ ﻭﺍﻟﻌﻘﺎﺭﺍﺕ ﻭﺍﻟﻘﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﻌﻤﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﻌﻼﻣﺎﺕ ﺍﻟﺘﺠﺎﺭﻳﺔ ﻭﺑﺮﺍﺀﺍﺕ ﺍﻻﺧﺘﺮﺍﻉ ﻭﺣﻘﻮﻕ ﺍﳌﺆﻟﻒ‬

• • • • • • • •

DUBAI EMIRATES TOWERS, 14TH FLOOR, SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD P.O. BOX: 9055, DUBAI, UAE TEL: +971 4 330 4343 | FAX: +971 4 330 3993 | ABU DHABI Tel: +971 2 6394446

RAS AL KHAIMAH Tel: +971 7 2046719

DUBAI INTERNET CITY Tel: +971 4 3900820

SHARJAH Tel: +971 6 5728666

JEBEL ALI Tel: +971 4 8871679

DIFC Tel: +971 4 4019562









the FLeet

Our fleet contains 214 planes made up of 202 passenger planes and 12 cargo planes

Boeing 777-300eR

Number of Aircraft: 91 Capacity: 354-442 Range: 14,594km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 64.8m

Boeing 777-300

Number of Aircraft: 12 Capacity: 364 Range: 11,029km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 60.9m

Boeing 777-200LR

Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 266 Range: 17,446km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m

Boeing 777-200

Number of Aircraft: 9 Capacity: 274-346 Range: 9,649km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 60.9m

Boeing 777F

Number of Aircraft: 10 Range: 9,260km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m For more information:


Open skies / January 2014

Airbus A380-800

Number of Aircraft: 44 Capacity: 489-517 Range: 15,000km Length: 72.7m Wingspan: 79.8m

Airbus A340-500

Number of Aircraft: 9 Capacity: 258 Range: 16,050km Length: 67.9m Wingspan: 63.4m

Airbus A340-300

Number of Aircraft: 4 Capacity: 267 Range: 13,350km Length: 63.6m Wingspan: 60.3m

Airbus A330-200

Number of Aircraft: 23 Capacity: 237-278 Range: 12,200km Length: 58.8m Wingspan: 60.3m

boeing 747-400erF

Number of Aircraft: 2 Range:9,204km Length: 70.6m Wingspan: 64.4m Aircraft numbers as of January 2014


Open skies / January 2014

last look

New York

JOSEPHINE RODRIGUEZ 81, RETIRED BEDFORD AVENUE, WILLIAMSBURG, BROOKLYN I was born in East Harlem, Manhattan, but I’ve been living here in Williamsburg since I was 16. I raised five kids here. I love walking down this street. It’s wonderful. There are stores everywhere, people are friendly. Around here there are a lot of young people. I like to see that. I live near the subway and bus station, so it’s perfect for me to travel to Manhattan or wherever I want to go. Today I’m going to go down to McCarren Park [in Greenpoint, Brooklyn]. I really don’t know how I would describe my style, because when I grew up women didn’t wear pants [trousers]. They started wearing them a lot when I went to junior high school, but they weren’t allowed in school. How did I choose my outfit? I was into brown today.

image: melodie Jeng


Open skies / January 2014

Discover Luxury

The largest selection of genuine 19th century French antiques in the region, 19th Century Antiques includes rare furniture, bronzes, paintings, clock sets, and vases of exceptional quality and taste.


Openskies | January 2014