THE SKIN ISSUE Comfortable in Your Own emirateswoman.com DHS25 RO2.70 BD2.60 KD2.10 SR25 A MOTIVATE PUBLICATION JUNE 2023
C M Y CM MY CY CMY K
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Obaid Humaid Al Tayer
MANAGING PARTNER AND GROUP EDITOR
Ian Fairservice
EDITOR/ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Amy Sessions amy.sessions@motivate.ae
SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Olga Petroff
DIGITAL EDITOR Ruman Baig
FASHION EDITOR Camille Macawili
DIGITAL STYLE EDITOR Sarah Joseph
JUNIOR DESIGNER Charissa Canlas
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Londresa Flores
GENERAL MANAGER PRODUCTION Sunil Kumar
PRODUCTION MANAGER Binu Purandaran
PRODUCTION SUPERVISOR Venita Pinto
CHIEF COMMERCIAL OFFICER Anthony Milne
GROUP SALES MANAGER
Chaitali Khimji chaitali.khimji@motivate.ae
SENIOR SALES MANAGER
Anna Chipala anna.chipala@motivate.ae
GROUP MARKETING MANAGER Joelle Albeaino
WEB DEVELOPER Firoz Kaladi
Joëlle
CONTRIBUTORS
Izzy Turner,
Ahmed Abd El-Wahab, Guido Duken HEAD OFFICE Media One Tower, Dubai Media City, PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE, Tel: (+971) 4 4273000, Fax: (+971) 4 4282261, E-mail: motivate@motivate.ae DUBAI MEDIA CITY SD 2-94, 2nd Floor, Building 2, Dubai, UAE, Tel: (+971) 4 390 3550, Fax: (+971) 4 390 4845 ABU DHABI PO Box 43072, UAE, Tel: (+971) 2 677 2005, Fax: (+971) 2 677 0124, E-mail: motivate-adh@motivate.ae SAUDI ARABIA Office 452, Regus Offices, 4th Floor, Al Hamad Tower, King Fahad Road, Al Olaya, PO Box 12381, Riyadh 6764, Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, Tel: (+966) 11 834 3595 / (+966) 11 834 3596, Fax: (+966) 11 834350 LONDON Acre House, 11/15 William Road, London NW1 3ER, UK, E-mail: motivateuk@motivate.ae
Albeaino,
Mark Mathew,
Material funded by Allergan Aesthetics an AbbVie company.
AMI, Allergan Medical Institute and their designs are trademarks of Allergan, Inc., an AbbVie company. All rights reserved ©2022 AbbVie.
Adverse events should be reported to your local regulatory authority and Allergan Aesthetics o ce an AbbVie company: ProductSurveillance_EAME@abbvie.com and pv.mea@abbvie.com
AE-AGNA-220147 Preparation date: October 2022
Editor’s Letter
Welcome to The Skin Issue.
In this issue we focus on optimizing your skin from the inside out as well as at surface level.
For the cover we have partnered with INSTYTUTUM, a resultdriven skincare brand founded by Nataliia Derkach, MD, PhD, with innovation at its core in The Skincare Guru – Cover shoot with INSTYTUTUM on page 14.
FEEL COMFORTABLE IN YOUR OWN SKIN.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian CEO and Co-Founder, Marc Chaya, discusses scaling a global brand successfully and how important skin is to fragrance in Scaling Scent on page 68; Lauryn Bosstick, Founder of The Skinny Confidential, tells us why we need to
invest in an ice roller in The Game Changer on page 62; Founder and CEO of Sana Jardin, Amy Christiansen, shares what it takes to build a sustainable fragrance brand that’s gentle on the skin in Second Skin on page 72 and Body Fwrd
Founder Kenzie Burke shares what kickstarted her passion in wellness, overcoming challenges, and the importance of nourishing within in Feed Your Skin on page 96.
There is so much valuable knowledge to soak up in this issue and we are grateful to be able to share this with you.
This month – focus on doing what makes you feel comfortable in your own skin.
Amy Sessions EDITOR / ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER
6 emirateswoman.com
C.E.O. Vitamin C Rich Hydration Cream, 50g Dhs251 Sunday Riley
Nourishing Gold Algae Eye Mask Dhs362 Aman X 111 SKIN
The Rich Cream, 50ml Dhs1,160 Augustinus Bader
+ NET SUSTAIN Anti-Aging Body Cream, 200ml Dhs397 Dr. Barbara Sturm
Multi-Sculpt HighPerformance Gua Sha Dhs188 FACEGYM
THE HERO BUYS
8 emirateswoman.com THE MONITOR Monitor News p.12 Social Listings p.13 The Skincare Guru –Cover Shoot with INSTYTUTUM p.14 FASHION The Edit – The softest pieces for leather lovers p.24 Reveal & Conceal – CHRISTOPHER ESBER p.28 A Second Skin –GIVENCHY p.34 A Minimalist Cut –SIMKHAI p.38 It’s a Cool, Cool Summer – 1309 p.44 12 24 CONTENTS JUNE 2023
Vent
Plant-Based Skin Science: Codex Labs p.74
BEAUTY
Hot New Buys p.48
The Hero Buys – An edit of must-own gentle skincare products p.52
The Game Changer – Exclusive interview with Lauryn Bosstick, Founder of The Skinny Confidential p.62
Hands Down p.64
Scaling Scent –Interview with Maison Francis Kurkdjian CEO and Co-Founder, Marc Chaya p.68
Second Skin –Interview with Founder and CEO of Sana Jardin, Amy Christiansen p.72
Natural Instinct –An interview with IZIL Beauty’s Founder and CEO Mouna Abassy p.76
The Age of Ayurveda –Forest Essentials p.78
The Aesthetic Expert –We speak to Specialist
Plastic Surgeon and CEO at The Nova Clinic & Aesthetics, Dr Jaffer Khan p.80
Skin Saver – Leading skincare expert Rebecca Treston shares a game-
changing skincare approach p.82
Laser Focused –Founder of Ivory Aesthetics Clinic, Shohreh Bagherian on the benefits of using laser for smooth skin p.84
Non-Negotiables –Incredible women discuss skincare essentials they do not deviate from p.86
Beauty Shelf –Claire Miller p.92
AM to PM Beauty –Atra Daniel p.94
9 emirateswoman.com 48
The New Skin Commandments p.50
– The best cut-outs to show a little skin p.26
CONTENTS
LIFESTYLE
Feed Your Skin –Body Fwrd Founder Kenzie Burke on the importance of nourishing within p.96 Core Power – Founder of Sol Pilates, Rawia Khansaheb on building a wellness
brand and harnessing your power p.98
Skincare Transformations –Dr Carmelo Crisafulli reveals everything to know about his dynamic approach to plastic surgery p.100
Tagomago –Experience laid-back Balearic vibes p.104
Personal Space –In the office with designer Kristina Fidelskaya p.106
The Cover
10 emirateswoman.com
JUNE 2023
Smooth – An edit of the best exfoliating treatments p.90
Next-generation Retinoid Facial Oil –Powerful Retinoil INSTYTUTUM
96
The Wanderlust – Amanyara p.102
Tight – An edit of the best tightening beauty tools p.66
www.selectshopframe.com ONLINE www.brownbook.me | Visit our website for the latest video content in between issues or subscribe to our newsletter. SUBSCRIBE Get every issue of Brownbook delivered to your door. | Email team@brownbook.me for details. PUBLISHED IN ASSOCIATION WITH THE TOKYO ISSUE OUT NOW GRAB A COPY OF YOUR FAVOURITE URBAN GUIDE TO THE MIDDLE EAST
Minimal Ease
The latest launches, new openings and hero buys
COMPILED BY: CAMILLE MACAWILI
THE HERO BUYS
THREE
TO OWN
12 THE MONITOR – NEWS emirateswoman.com
IMAGES: SUPPLIED
Watch Chain Choker Dhs2,100 Victoria Beckham
Cocoon Nylon-Cotton Track Pants Dhs1,615 Paris Georgia
Traceless Soft Matte Concealer in Bare Dhs273 Tom Ford
Alice Nylon-Cotton Cropped top Dhs1,505 Paris Georgia
LOUNGE ACT
Max Mara Leisure nails downtime dressing for effortless days and chilled nights.
Secret Sauce 30ml Dhs1,100 The Beauty Sandwich
The Body Wash 250ml Dhs92 Nécessaire
12
HA+ Replenishing Serum 30ml Dhs955Ourself
3
@theskincareeditme
Make this your go-to for all your skincare needs.
@solpilatesdubai
Start your Pilates journey at this aesthetic studio in the heart of Dubai.
@forestessentials
Traditional beauty expertise, rooted in the healing power of Ayurveda.
@augustinusbader
This science-backed skincare ensures beauty from the inside-out.
@codexlabs
This plant-powered beauty brand provides biotech solutions for healthy skin.
@sanajardin
Award-winning sustainable, fine fragrances.
@tagomagodubai
Bringing the bohemian energy of the Balearics to Dubai.
@kristinafidelskaya
Precision cut, second skin leather and more.
@izilbeauty
Time-tested Moroccan rituals for the ultimate in self-care.
Social Listings
A guide of beauty-inspired Instagram accounts to #follow this month
COMPILED BY: SARAH JOSEPH
13 emirateswoman.com THE MONITOR
The Skincare Guru
We discuss skincare and scaling a successful business with CEO and founder of INSTYTUTUM, Nataliia Derkach, MD, PhD
WORDS & CREATIVE DIRECTION:
AMY SESSIONS
PHOTOGRAPHY: ŽIGA MIHEL I
Previous page: Next-generation Retinoid Facial Oil –Powerful Retinoil; Both pages: Superpacked Antioxidant
Serum – Anti-wrinkle Brightening C-erum
16 emirateswoman.com COVER STORY
18 emirateswoman.com COVER STORY
Left page: Ultra-firming, Tightening, Lifting – Firmagic Everynight Firming Mask; Daily Power Multi-acid Resurfacing Treatment – Flawless Pads; Pro-grade Anti-aging – X-strength Retinol Serum; Right page: Multi-action Exfoliating Facial – Triple-action Resurfacing Peel
21 emirateswoman.com COVER STORY
Left page: Daily Power Multi-acid Resurfacing Treatment – Flawless Pads; Right page: Superpacked Antioxidant Serum – Anti-wrinkle Brightening C-erum; Anti-aging, Refining, Energizing – Hydrafusion 4D HA Hydrating Water Burst Cream; Repairing, Calming, Plumping – Superbiotic Plant-based Ceramide Cream; Multi-action Exfoliating Facial – Triple-action Resurfacing Peel; Anti-aging, Refining, Energizing –Hydrafusion 4D HA Hydrating Water Burst Cream
22 emirateswoman.com COVER STORY
Next-generation Retinoid Facial Oil – Powerful Retinoil
a community of skintellectuals. INSTYTUTUM is result-driven skincare. Our products have active ingredients in effective concentrations created in a Swiss laboratory. As a doctor and woman, I believe that care cosmetics should give a visible result. This is exactly the approach we implement in our products.
How challenging has it been to stay ahead of the curve in such a fast-paced industry? When I launched INSTYTUTUM, no one in my inner circle believed in it. None at all. I wanted to prove that I could do it. It was a business from scratch: a new company, new development cycle, new team abroad. The market was completely unknown to us. They told me: “Your creams are too expensive. Who will buy them? Who even needs such expensive skincare? The skincare market is oversaturated. And it was hard to fight off these doubts all at once.
I experimented with the team a lot, with the structure, and with the approach as well. For example, I changed three development teams before I found those who understood me and my vision. Now everything is fine. We are successful in many countries around the world. We started out as a premium retail brand. That was the strategy. Premium retail is skincare that is sold in large retail chains and these tend to have no active ingredients. They can also contain toxic ingredients; we wanted to do things differently. However, we quickly realized that we needed to change strategy as our audience is different – we speak the same language as estheticians. So we pivoted in strategy to focus on doctors and beauticians and it worked.
What are your non-negotiables when it comes to skincare? I never launch products I don’t believe in.
What do the first 30 minutes of your day look like/your morning routine?
I wake up early, then have a nice cup of coffee. After that I do some selfmassage for my face. The relaxation of facial muscles is a key component of maintaining youth. I spend 20 minutes doing transcendental meditation and follow this with exercise before the working day starts. How did you know it was the right time to launch the brand and what was the catalyst for this? Before us, there were several baseline approaches that were common to the industry. Skincare products were either professional, and effective but also aggressive and/or potentially toxic. Or they were of premium retail-worthy quality, with stylish packaging and nice textures, but blank and non-effective formulas. Creating a product that is simultaneously effective, safe and able to transform skincare routine into a unique experience was a real challenge, but since I am a doctor and PhD in medicine, I do not believe in making compromises. When formulating our products, we only use nextgeneration clinically proven actives in highly-efficient concentrations, balancing them with soothing ingredients while also paying attention to the sensory experience (texture, colour and smell) our products provide. And we never stop growing – even if it means doing 32 iterations of a cream formula or upgrading our formulas every couple of years. What is the DNA of the brand and how do you approach things differently? I’ve realized that consumers underestimated home care. After all, professional care at home is 90 per cent of the success in skin care. Of course, the beauty industry is developing: injection cosmetology has already risen well, but there can be no long-term effect because patients do not know how to take care of themselves at home. That’s when I started looking for brands I would like and which worked but did not find them. People used to believe cosmetics were just marketing: beautiful stories, cute jars, packaging that sells, and pleasant textures. But with entirely useless ingredients. I wanted effective products to appear. This is the idea behind INSTYTUTUM. We aim to teach consumers to understand cosmetic formulas, help them take care of their skin with the most effective skincare products, and, thus, grow
Which are your hero products? Every product is a blockbuster in their category. We have a very focused line, because I don’t believe in scaling into larger lines of products just for marketing purposes – we focus on hero products that drive results. How challenging was it to refine the formulations? Of course, it is hard. But we are product perfectionists, so we never stop growing and updating our formulas, if we believe it is necessary. So we have selected the most effective forms of each ingredient and chose maximum allowable concentrations so that the products are effective. We also added balancing components to each product so that they can be used at home and not be afraid to harm yourself. And we did it because we believed that to be necessary to compete in the most challenging markets of Asia and USA.
The brand is aesthetically super clean – was this your vision from the outset? Yes. Our packaging resonates with the brand: clear, minimalistic and works.
How do you approach scaling without compromising on quality? We invest a lot in education about the brand and explain our value to our customers.
What has been the biggest challenge to date and how did you overcome it? Our biggest challenge is to disrupt the skincare industry by educating everyone on transforming the skin at home. How has social media supported scaling the business? At the core of every business are people. Our clients use and engage with social media, read the information there and follow the advice of influencers. That’s why our team focused on approaching and engaging the clients on Instagram. We used the perfectly combined approach and it has helped grow the brand and our clients base in two years.
The content we create is based on education. We educate with a focus on proper skincare approaches, ingredients and common mistakes to avoid.
Have you had any mentors and if so, what advice did they impart? I have the most amazing father, who taught me to think unconventionally and built up my love for innovations. My father is also a doctor and a scientist, and he’s accomplished so much in his life. But what I love most about him is his kindness and his creativity. He always told me to lead, not just to follow. So the only thing I do follow, is this advice.
What advice would you give your younger self? To always remember, that mistakes do not exist. Everything that feels like a mistake to you will be a first step to your next best thing.
23 emirateswoman.com COVER STORY FASHION EDITOR: CAMILLE MACAWILI; MAKEUP & HAIR: MELANIE MEYER AT MMG; MODEL: SAMA ZAKERI AT SIGNATURE ELEMENT; ALL FASHION WITH THANKS TO OUNASS
Nataliia Derkach
THE EDIT
24 emirateswoman.com FASHION
Faux Leather Trench Coat Dhs369 Zara
The Pouch small leather clutch Dhs8,100 Bottega Veneta
Leather leggings Dhs6,573 WARDROBE.NYC
Archetypes leather maxi dress Dhs16,300 Alaïa available at NET-A-PORTER
THIS PAGE: ZARA, MANGO; OPPOSITE PAGE: THE ROW, ZEYNEP ARCAY
The softest pieces for leather lovers
WORDS & STYLING: AMY SESSIONS
Asymmetric leather
25 emirateswoman.com FASHION
Faux stretch-leather bodysuit Dhs410 Commando
mini skirt Dhs4,816 Zeynep Arcay
Akiras textured leather jacket Dhs9,557 Isabel Marant
Faux stretch-leather track pants Dhs552 Commando
Above: Cut-out back woolblend tuxedo dress Dhs1,716
Self-Portrait available at MATCHESFASHION; Below: Backless Pad Shoulder Shirt
Dhs360 Source Unknown
VENT
The best cut-outs to show a little skin
26 emirateswoman.com FASHION
WORDS & STYLING: AMY SESSIONS
01. Rose Marie small laser-cut leather bucket bag Dhs5,330 Alaïa; 02. Soft-Cut Body Suit Dhs149 Zara; 03. Triquetra cutout silk-faille maxi dress Dhs4,027 Christopher Esber available exclusively at NET-A-PORTER; 04. Cutout tulle bodysuit Dhs2,640 Nensi Dojaka available at MYTHERESA; 05. Cutout bodysuit Dhs1,888 LaQuan Smith available at MYTHERESA; 06. Cutout cotton bra top Dhs1,563 Nensi Dojaka; Right page: Cut-out Blazer Dhs599 Zara
01 02 03 04
05 06
REVEAL &
CONCEAL
Christopher Esber delivers cool cuts for SS23
WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
28 emirateswoman.com FASHION
ALL AVAILABLE AT CHRISTOPHER ESBER
33 emirateswoman.com FASHION
WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
Second Skin leather at Givenchy for SS23 A SECOND
SKiN
iN
ALL AVAILABLE AT GIVENCHY
CUT A MINIMALIST
WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
PARED BACK LINES AND SHARP TAILORING FOR SIMKHAI SS23
ALL AVAILABLE AT SIMKHAI
WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
44 emirateswoman.com FASHION
45 emirateswoman.com FASHION IT’S A COOL, COOL SUMMER 1309 delivers effortless separates for summer
47 emirateswoman.com FASHION
ALL AVAILABLE AT 1309
Hot New Buys
WORDS : SARAH JOSEPH
A curated guide of must-own beauty products that are gentle on the skin
Dewy Finish
This lightweight toner-meets-moisturiser strengthens and soothes depleted skin. Cream Skin Toner & Moisturizer Dhs170 Laneige
SHIMMERING GLOW
This lightweight formula leaves your skin with a subtle satin finish. Pearly Body Gel Coco Mademoiselle Dhs367 Chanel Beauty
Pure Retinol
This cutting-edge complex of amino acids ensures a smoother skin texture. The Retinol Serum 30ml for Dhs1,486 Augustinus Bader
48 BEAUTY emirateswoman.com
IMAGES: SUPPLIED
Eucalyptus Magic
This clear gel deodorant brightens discolorations and effectively smooths bumps. The Deodorant Gel Dhs60 Nécessaire
NATURALLY PLUMP
This full-force formula leaves lips looking glossy and works hard to nourish dry skin. Peptide Lip Treatment Dhs58 Rhode
Wrinkle Soothing
This retinol serum gives the smoothening benefits of collagen-rich skin. The Silk Serum 30ml for Dhs458 Tatcha
Pure Diamond Powder
Designed to smooth and plump fragile skin with a visibly toned effect. The RETURN Eye Concentrate 15ml for Dhs723 U Beauty
A Do-It-All Formula
This colour-safe shampoo breathes life into fine hair. Fine Hair Shampoo 300ml for Dhs300 Ouai
49 BEAUTY emirateswoman.com
Three experts in the beauty industry break down the new skincare rules
WORDS: RUMAN BAIG
With all kinds of information at your disposal, it feels difficult to filter out the essentials, especially when it concerns a subject like skincare. How does one cut through the noise to see which of these methods pass the litmus test? For the Skin Issue, we speak to three industry experts about the procedures and practices that will stand against the test of time and here’s the final verdict.
Go Minimal
Minimising the number of products you use and focusing on quality over quantity allows skin to not feel overloaded with products.
Opt for multi-functional value skincare with mindful ingredients says Geraldine Janse Van Veuren, Brand Manager of Comfort Zone, she advises we are experiencing a more minimalistic skin care routine approach than ever before.
“Consumers are asking for quicker, more efficient, and in some cases more affordable regimens. Consumers today are significantly more educated about skincare and have become extra conscious about what they buy. Although multi-purpose products are not a new concept, post pandemic we have seen the increase in demand for hybrid products. Beauty shoppers want to uncomplicate their routines, maximise on the three or four step approach, and prioritise personal time” says Janse Van Veuren.
Build A Barrier
Skin is the largest organ of the human body and one of the vital functions of it is to act as a barrier between the environment and internally to
control certain functions such as regulating water loss. “If you want to have healthy skin, use gentle cleansers that do not strip away your natural oils by eliminating the use of alcohols or sulphates. This includes body washes too. External factors such as hard water, can have a huge impact on hydration levels. Using a good moisturiser regularly can support your water, oil levels, and help restore your skin’s natural moisture levels and strengthen your barrier protection. These include ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and glycerin. Use the correct exfoliating method for your skin condition or skin type. Understand the percentage of the ingredients to optimise your daily/weekly routine. Common ingredients in exfoliates include alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), poly-hydroxy acids (PHAs), enzymes, sugar, silica microspheres. Protect your skin from the sun using the appropriate broad-spectrum SPF, with ingredients such as HOP fruit extracts. This acts on both melanocytes and keratinocytes, inhibiting melanin synthesis and the appearance of skin spots,” shares Geraldine Janse Van Veuren.
Harness Technology
From microsonic devices, LED masks to cryo globes, user-friendly skincare gadgets have garnered immense popularity. Senior Medical Aesthetician at Skinfluencer London, Ridah Syed, suggests a combination approach when it comes to tech-led treatments. “Incorporate them into your skincare routine to maintain healthy and youthful skin or prolong the effects of in-clinic treatments. You can combine microcurrent devices with serums. I especially love to use hyaluronic acid, an ingredient which rehydrates the skin and provides the perfect texture to use with your microcurrent device. Also, remember that at-home devices often touted on Instagram must be used consistently to see any substantial results.”
Smart Supplementation
Clever supplementation can give you the best glow from the inside out. “Using an IV drip is a way to supercharge this. For instance, those with low grade inflammation under the skin will have oxidative stress at biological level and while antioxidants in oral supplements and skincare can fight this to a certain extent, by having them in an IV drip, they can reach the bloodstream instantly and target the cells much more quickly and effectively. One thing to be mindful of however, is that to build the correct amount of antioxidant, you need to be careful of the frequency of dosing and formulation of the IV drip,” explains Dr Fazeela Abbasi, Dermatologist at Euromed Clinic.
THE NEW SKIN COMMANDMENTS
51 emirateswoman.com BEAUTY
WORDS & STYLING: AMY SESSIONS
THE HERO BUYS
The best products that deliver optimal skin
The Rich Cream, 50ml Dhs1,160
Augustinus Bader
Nourishing Rich Cream, 50ml Dhs271 Susanne Kaufmann
Soufflé Moisturizer, 50ml Dhs230 Angela Caglia
MOISTURISER
Revitalizing Supreme+ Youth Power Creme, 50ml Dhs309 Estée Lauder
Vitamin C + Lactic Dewy Deep Cream, 60ml Dhs322 Dr Dennis Gross Skincare
Victoria Beckham by Augustinus Bader Cell Rejuvenating Priming Moisturizer, 30ml Dhs385 Victoria Beckham Beauty
The Balm, 30ml Dhs1,418
Joanna Czech
Vitamin Enriched Face Base, 50ml Dhs204 Bobbi Brown
Face Cream, 50ml Dhs586 Dr. Barbara Sturm
53 emirateswoman.com BEAUTY
THE HERO BUYS
Soleil Blanc Shimmering Rose Gold Body Oil, 100ml
Dhs355 Tom
Ford Beauty
Body Oil, 100ml Dhs334
Mutha
C.E.O. Glow Vitamin C + Turmeric Face Oil, 35ml Dhs284
Sunday Riley
U.F.O. UltraClarifying Face Oil, 35ml Dhs284
Sunday Riley
Kaya Anti-Aging Face Oil, 30ml Dhs481
Costa Brazil
Parsley Seed Facial Cleansing Oil, 200ml Dhs185 Aesop
Black Rose Precious Face Oil, 25ml
Dhs774 Sisley Paris
Costa Brazil
Face Coach Lifting
Q10 + Mastic Tree
Enzymatically Activated Face Oil, 30ml
Dhs209 Facegym
Shower Oil, 250ml Dhs117 Le Labo
The Body Oil, 100ml Dhs313
Augustinus
Bader
54 emirateswoman.com BEAUTY THE HERO BUYS
OIL
Kaya Jungle Firming Body Oil, 100ml Dhs397
55 emirateswoman.com BEAUTY THE HERO BUYS
The Renewal Oil, 30ml Dhs878 La Mer
Bio-Shield Face Oil, 30ml Dhs619 Tata Harper
Neroli Cleansing Oil, 100ml
Dhs292 Angela Caglia
Fabulous Face Oil, 25ml Dhs177 Aesop
holi (oil) Ageless Face Serum, 30ml Dhs502 Agent Nateur
Face Oil, 25ml Dhs355 Mutha
Miracle Face Oil, 30ml Dhs355 Omorovicza
Soothing Cleansing Milk, 100ml Dhs142 Susanne Kaufmann
The MANTLE Skin Conditioning Wash, 150ml Dhs309 U Beauty
Amazing Face Cleanser, 200ml Dhs152 Aesop
Hydrating Face Cleanser, 104ml Dhs167 Costa Brazil
CLEANSER
The Cleansing Foam, 30ml Dhs83 La Mer
Buff and Wash Facial Gel, 100ml Dhs422 Sisley Paris Cleansing Oil, 150ml Dhs188 Epara
Micellar Mousse, 150ml Dhs104 Medik8
High Performance Cleanser, 100ml Dhs355 Macrene Actives
56 emirateswoman.com BEAUTY
THE HERO BUYS
Nourishing Body Creme, 150ml Dhs217
Natureofthings
Baccarat Rouge 540 Scented Body Cream, 250ml Dhs292 Maison
Francis Kurkdjian
Rose 31 Body Lotion, 237ml Dhs196 Le Labo
Body Butter, 160ml Dhs335 Mutha
Celestial Black Diamond Body Cream, 160ml Dhs523
111SKIN
Mojave Ghost Body Lotion, 225ml Dhs202 Byredo
The Body Crème, 300ml Dhs920 La Mer
BODY
The Body Lotion, 200ml Dhs117 Nécessaire
Anti-Aging Body Cream, 500ml Dhs857
Dr. Barbara Sturm
The Body Cream, 100ml Dhs410 Augustinus Bader
Rose de Mai Body Oil, 48ml Dhs335 Chantecaille
Gold Lust All Over Oil, 50ml Dhs230 Oribe
Refining Body Scrub, 200ml Dhs230
Susanne Kaufmann
57 emirateswoman.com BEAUTY THE HERO BUYS
Vitamin C Lactic Oil-Free Radiant Moisturizer, 50ml Dhs309
Dr Dennis Gross Skincare
The Good C - Vitamin C
Serum, 30ml Dhs460 Dr. Barbara Sturm
VITAMIN C
Brighten + Correct Super Vita-C Booster
Serum, 30ml
Dhs267 Nuface
Vitamin C+B+E Ferulic Serum, 30ml Dhs543
Dr Lara Devgan exclusively available at NET-A-PORTER
C.E.O. Vitamin C
Rich Hydration Cream, 50g Dhs251
Sunday Riley
Vitamin C + Lactic
15% Vitamin C Firm & Bright Serum, 30ml
Dhs368 Dr Dennis Gross Skincare
C+C Vitamin
Oil-Free Gel
Moisturiser, 75ml
Dhs472 Natura Bissé
C15 Super Booster, 20ml Dhs217 Paula's Choice
Daily Vitamin C, 30ml Dhs414 Omorovicza
58 emirateswoman.com BEAUTY
THE HERO BUYS
Vitamin Enriched Eye Base, 15ml Dhs159 Bobbi Brown
Intensité Les Yeux - Firming Eye Cream, 15ml Dhs690 Révive
EYE CREAM
THE HERO BUYS
Super Anti-Aging Eye Cream, 15ml Dhs669 Dr. Barbara Sturm
Up All Night Eye Cream, 15ml Dhs313 Mutha
Extra Repair Eye Cream Intense, 15ml Dhs219 Bobbi Brown
Intensive Eye Renewal Cream, 15ml Dhs259
Shani Darden
The Eye Cream Refill, 15ml Dhs810
Augustinus Bader
Celestial Black Diamond Eye Cream, 15ml Dhs774 111SKIN
Eye Revival
Brightening Eye Cream, 15ml Dhs171 Rose Inc
Parsley Seed Anti-Oxidant Eye Cream, 0.3oz Dhs260 Aesop
59 emirateswoman.com
Retinol + Bakuchiol Serum 2.5x, 30ml Dhs1,108 Dr Lara Devgan exclusively available at NET-A-PORTER
Inhibit Eye Retinol Lift, 15ml Dhs568 Natura Bissé
Celestial Black Diamond Retinol Oil, 30ml Dhs690 111SKIN
0.3% Retinol Gel, 40ml Dhs301
Teresa Tarmey
RETINOL
Retinol Gel Crème, 50ml Dhs502 Skin Design London
Hydrate & Nourish Age Defence Retinol Day Moisturizer SPF30, 50ml Dhs397 MZ Skin
Radiance Repair Retinol Serum, 30ml Dhs606 Eve Lom
Retinol Skin Booster, 20ml Dhs460 MZ Skin
60 emirateswoman.com BEAUTY THE HERO BUYS
Clear Skin Peel, 30ml Dhs815 Skin Design London exclusively available at NET-A-PORTER
THE HERO BUYS
GOOPGLOW 15% Glycolic Acid Overnight Glow Peel x 4 Dhs159 GOOP
Cheat Mask Resurfacing + Brightening Tri-Acid and Prebiotic Overnight Mask, 50ml Dhs272 Facegym
MASK
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Celestial Black Diamond Eye Mask x 8 Dhs334 111SKIN
Clarifying Mask, 50ml Dhs494 Dr. Barbara Sturm
Baume De Rose
Glowing Rose Mask Dhs192 By Terry
Gold Hydralifting Mask, 50ml Dhs610 Omorovicza
Parsley Seed Cleansing Masque, 60ml Dhs152 Aesop
Rose Gold Illuminating Eye Mask x 8 Dhs313 111SKIN
The Game Changer
We discuss ice-rolling, depuffing and a snatched jawline with Founder of The Skinny
Confidential, Lauryn Bosstick
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WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
What do the first 30 minutes of your day look like/your morning routine? How you spend your morning sets the tone for your entire day so I always try to wake up calmly. It’s not always the same, but typically it’s to hydrate, open the blinds, make the bed, meditate and walk. My phone stays off unless I’m listening to a meditation, podcast or Audible book. My husband usually gets up with the baby at 6am and when I come downstairs we spend time together over breakfast. I’ll usually drink water with lemon, a raw milk cappuccino, and start some of my supplements like aminos, Athletic Greens or Cymbiotika packets.
How did you know it was the right time to launch The Skinny Confidential ice-roller and how long was the idea percolating beforehand? The product was about four years in the making. The team and I had to make sure everything was just how we wanted it. The idea had been brewing ever since I had double jaw surgery and even though ice and utilizing cold therapy was the number one thing that helped with swelling and healing, I couldn’t find an ice roller I was happy with, so the team and I set out to create the best, most effective and pretty ice roller on the market.
What is the DNA of the brand and how does it differ from other beauty brands? The Skinny Confidential is all about useful, effective, preventative beauty products that still look good on a vanity. We were so over sterile, ugly tools that we wanted to create products that can be shown off in your cosmetic case — items that are fun to take on a girls trip that start conversations. We created our HOT SHAVE Cream, the first ever women’s facial shaving cream, to be used with our HOT SHAVE Razor to end the taboo around women shaving their faces and you can expect to see more innovative products like this, as well as tried and true tools created to work, stand the test of time and look cute, too.
How challenging has it been to stay ahead of the curve in such a fast-paced industry?
The Skinny Confidential community are the ones who help us stay ahead of the curve. They tell us what they want and we listen. A lot of our readership are people who have been with the blog since it started, 12 years ago. With their help it’s easy to disrupt an industry that needed an update.
What are the benefits of ice-rolling? Ice-rolling helps with lymphatic drainage which removes toxins and helps decrease puffiness or excess fluid in the face (which is what really
helped me after jaw surgery). It also reduces redness, swelling, irritation and makes you look contoured and sculpted. It tightens pores which really helps before putting on makeup. Also, it just feels really amazing. You can use it after a wax anywhere on your body and a lot of men I know like to use it on their sore muscles. You can keep it in the fridge, freezer or an ice bucket on vacation and use it anywhere on your body. What has been the biggest challenge to date and how did you overcome it? Definitely running a team. When you start your business you do everything yourself, with your hands in every cookie jar. It’s really hard to delegate and let go. My team is incredible. Every single person is so good at their job and believes in the brand and the mission. But it’s hard to let go and not oversee every single thing when that’s what you’ve done since day 1. Have you had any mentors and if so, what advice did they impart? An actual mentor, no. However, from recording with incredible guests on The Skinny Confidential HIM & HER Show, and being a total bookworm, I feel like I have a ton of mentors and people I look up to, indirectly. When you’re an entrepreneur of course you have to be good in business but there are other aspects like
relationships, communications and psychology. All of Robert Greene’s books about human nature have been incredible teachers and The Daily Stoic by Ryan Holiday taught me that you can only control YOU, not others or your surroundings. In my opinion this is such a good book to read for everyone but especially if you’re a woman in business.
Another amazing book is The Slight Edge: It says ‘always be tapping into what made you popular in the first place, but in an evolved way.’ For The Skinny Confidential, that’s the blog. It’s always been the mothership and what captured the community: thorough, specific content. As the brand evolves, we’re still creating content but we’re also doing it with a podcast & product line as well as the blog. I always want to be doing what people first fell in love with, but fluffed up for 2023 & current times.
What advice would you give your younger self? Learn how to keep calm amongst chaos, meditate more and don’t focus on things you can’t control.
This is The Skin Issue – what does it mean to you to be comfortable in your own skin? To have autonomy and to be independent. Independence makes me feel comfortable in my skin.
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IMAGES: SUPPLIED
“Independence makes me feel comfortable in my skin.”
HANDS DOWN
An edit of the best hand care for the unforgotten area you need to anti-age
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WORDS
& STYLING: AMY SESSIONS
65 emirateswoman.com BEAUTY 01. Eight Hour Intensive Moisturizing Hand Treatment Dhs125 Elizabeth Arden; 02. Suede Hand Wash, 450ml Dhs181 BYREDO; 03. Hand Pomade, 55ml Dhs100 Le Labo; 04. Super Anti-Aging Hand Cream, 50ml Dhs209 Dr. Barbara Sturm; 05. Sabonete Líquido Nutrient-Rich Hand & Body Wash, 330ml Dhs204 Costa Brazil; 06. Hand Wash Refill, 946ml Dhs209 OUAI Haircare; 07. Diamond Extreme Hand Cream, 75ml Dhs301 Natura Bissé; 08. Resurrection Aromatique Hand Balm, 75ml Dhs103 Aesop; 09. Hand Cream, 50ml Dhs146 Susanne Kaufmann; 10. Reverence Aromatique Hand Wash, 500ml Dhs128 Aesop; 11. Suede Hand Cream, 100ml Dhs198 Byredo 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11
Cooling Spheres
TIGHT
An edit of the best tightening beauty tools for skin
WORDS: CAMILLE MACAWILI
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Facial Massager Duo
Dhs221 Rose Inc.
RéVolve Contouring Massage Roller
Dhs481 Révive, available at NET-A-PORTER
LYMA Laser Dhs9,899 LYMA, available at VioletGrey.com
Rose Quartz Vibrating Facial Roller Dhs850 Angela Caglia
High-Performance Contouring Tool
Dhs230 FaceGym
Gold Cryo Facial Set Dhs410 Angela Caglia, available at NET-A-PORTER
Tone & Lift
Germanium Contouring Facial Roller
Dhs395 MZ Skin, available OUNASS
Skinesis Meso-Melt Infusion System Dhs577 Sarah Chapman, available at NET-A-PORTER
Uplift Massaging Beauty Roller Dhs279 Nurse Jamie Beauty Ox Dhs2,050 ZIIP
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FaceGym Pro by The Recovery Lab Dhs2,640 FaceGym
Scaling Scent
What do the first 30 minutes of your day look like, your morning routine? Well, I’m a happy dog owner. I have a Frenchie, and the first 30 minutes of my morning is taking my Frenchie, Cherry, out for a walk. The first 30 minutes is my ‘me time’, having my coffee, going through the news, scheduling my day, and finishing up by feeding my dog.
How did your previous roles support you being able to launch MFK and how did you know it was the right time? So previously, I was a partner with Ernst & Young and I was dealing with multiple fields: business, finance, management, marketing, and leadership. I was managing several teams internationally in my role as EY’s global telecommunications markets leader. My experience at EY allowed me to learn a lot about the way you should structure the company financially. It also allowed me to acquire strategic thinking and taught me how to lead people towards a common goal.
This was invaluable, but there was a life for me before EY, when I go back to the little boy I was, and my childhood. I have a very strong creative impulse, and I’m lucky that I have these two aspects that coexist: very strong creativity and obviously the now-proven business acumen. I felt that it was the right time for me to move to the next page – which has become the page of my life – Maison Francis Kurkdjian, when I met Francis Kurkdjian. When I met Francis, I discovered how unfair it was that a full category of amazingly creative people were deprived from their ability to exist on their own. When do you decide to get married? You meet someone, you date, and eventually, one day you decide. Life is not about sudden moves or sudden decisions. For me, life is a journey. At some stage, when you know, you know, as they say. I knew it was the right time and I decided to start the journey. At Maison Kurkdjian, I use my business skills – the ones that I acquired at EY – and I use my creativity alongside Francis’s creativity to drive the story.
How challenging was the process of refining the fragrances themselves, and did you follow your intuition with this? It was easy for us, because when it comes to creating the scent, there is one person: Francis, and he is a perfumer. That’s also what makes our partnership unique. He gives me the entire freedom and ability to drive the business, and I give him the entire freedom and ability to come up with the ideas that will eventually become scents. And then we talk together. When I have a good business idea and I run it by him, it becomes an amazing business idea. And when he has a story about a scent or an impression or an intuition and we talk about it together, it helps him take it to the next level. But when it comes to creating our perfumes, we are not conceptually marketing driven. We are creativity driven.
Francis has an idea, an encounter, a travel: something that inspires him or makes him smile, and suddenly, he feels the urge to start making it happen; creating the scent that would embody or make his impression come to life. It’s a journey where he needs a name to start the creation. For example, for Grand Soir, we were in New York, the two of us, and we were talking about ‘the grand evening’ in Paris. He said he loves the idea of Paris being a 24/7 city, imagining a beautiful party walking down the streets of Paris having a great evening –and here came the name Grand Soir. Waking up and going out in Paris in the morning is amazing because Paris is also waking up. The sun is amazing, caressing the streets and the buildings. You hear noises, people are starting to go to work, to go to the market. The boulangeries are open. You smell coffee at the cafes. He was inspired by a story about Paris in the morning, and so came the name Petit Matin, the counterpart of Grand Soir. The names, Petit Matin, Grand Soir, helped him create the scents. In our Maison, the creative process is free. It all comes from Francis. Then, it becomes a dialogue between the two of us. But we do not fabricate stories. We
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Maison Francis Kurkdjian CEO and Co-Founder, Marc Chaya, discusses scaling a global brand successfully and how important skin is to fragrance
WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
IMAGES: SUPPLIED
“It is a big part of our work to make a masterpiece on your skin and to give it longevity.”
have no concepts. It’s all genuinely generated by his creative genius. The bottles are stunning. Did you envision the aesthetics of the brand from the outset? We started the brand from scratch. It was very important for us to host our perfumes, Francis’ creations, in a beautiful flacon. Francis had a few ideas, I was listening to him, but we really wanted an object that would be elegant, beautiful, and timeless, but would not come across as the star. A lot of marketing driven concepts need a wow factor in the bottle, in the design of the shop, in the marketing. For us, the brand had to be beautiful but timeless, and the real star was the perfume that sits in the bottle. The bottle was designed by a friend of ours who is a really talented creative director – his name is Fred Rawlyer.
Fred came to us with this little bottle, and then he improved on it – he added our little logo, the monogram, and added a Japanese style stand. He helped us get the angles of the bottle sharper so that the light goes through the bottle in a very beautiful fashion.
It was actually Francis who came up with the stopper. The stopper was supposed to be round. And then Francis said to me, “I want to put a square on top of the round”. I was like, “What are you talking about?” It’s beautiful. He was right. Everything, it came together. And as you see, all of our flacons are boasting the same type of bottles. We have three sizes. But for us, the most important thing was, again, to have an object that was elegant, that captured light, that was expressive, but that did not overtake the story.
The story is what goes inside the bottle. And that’s what we celebrate. The identity is inspired from Paris. We live in a city that gives us goosebumps. We travel a lot. And whenever you go to Paris and you’re by the Seine river, you realize it’s a stunning city. Our flacons are in zinc, the same as the rooftops of Paris. The zinc is a tribute to the rooftops of Paris. Zinc is a living material. We have stoppers in zinc and stoppers in gold – as in the gold domes of the Monument. During the creative process, we started naturally going to Paris. Eventually, Paris became our only, or our biggest, source of inspiration. Some brands are Italian and they find inspiration in Rome. Some find inspiration in fashion. We find our inspiration in two things, Paris, and the freedom to be who you want to be through our fragrance water.
How important is skin compatibility in how long a fragrance lasts on the skin? Your skin interacts with the scent and some people will have different interactions, based on their skin and the scent. However, you’ll find that 80% of us will carry the scent in a very similar fashion. There’s a lot of effort that is put behind creating a scent. The story is about first coming up with the inspiration, creating the
scent that reflects the inspiration, but then working the chemistry so that the scent is stabilized, that it diffuses, that it has a sillage. And Francis is the king of sillage. When you wear Grand Soir or Baccarat Rouge or Oud Satin and you enter the room, your aura is in the room, and that’s technique. This is not given to everyone. It is like a couturier – why is this gown so amazing? Why do we consider that this gown is perfect? It’s technique that combines, that adds to the genius of creativity to create a masterpiece. It is a big part of our work to make a masterpiece on your skin and to give it longevity. Have you had to get comfortable in your own skin as a business owner and how has how you view of yourself changed? A lot. To be an entrepreneur and to go on a journey of building something while embarking other people alongside you, requires deeper knowledge of yourself, because it’s not linear, it’s hard. I’ve learned a great deal about myself, about others, and I think I’ve worked very hard to learn and improve. I don’t think you can be successful; I don’t think you can lead and inspire unless you have a great level of respect for yourself and some kind of knowledge and self-love so that you can then give it all to others. I’ve done a lot of that.
How many people are in your team now and did you start out alone? A lot. It’s about 150 people in France. Another 40 people in the US, excluding our retail team — that would be in the hundreds. We’ve just created a subsidiary in the UK where we have about 50 people. We have people in China, about 15. We have about six to seven people in Hong Kong. This makes me really proud; it makes me really proud to see that there is no ‘I’ in a team. There’s ‘we’; we are a people-first company. We say that Maison Francis Kurkdjian is a human adventure. The hero in this adventure is perfume, but it’s a human adventure. And I’m a very proud CEO and cofounder to have the chance to have so many skilled and talented teams around us.
It’s interesting — it’s a testament to the brand that it’s global. It’s not just per region. Yes, we’re in 52 countries.
How do you approach scaling without compromising on quality? You should never compromise on quality, and you should never consider scale as the end game. Scale is the result of time. Mmhmm. It took us 15 years to open 800 doors. 800 doors can seem a lot, but in our industry, you can distribute perfume in over 60,000 doors. So we picked up hand in hand. And it took us 15 years to open those 800 doors. Quality. You can’t compromise on quality. Our luxury, you know, we, our dream is to be the most luxurious fragrance house, but luxury doesn’t mean anything anymore. So I had to give it a definition. Luxury for me stands in three things.
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The genius of creativity. And I’ve been talking about that. The genius of Francis Kurkdjian the perfumer. Number two, craftsmanship and quality. You can do beautiful things with ugly materials. The love of excellence is what characterises it. You can’t become a star ballerina or a lead champion in a sport without exercising hours every day. With Francis, we go the extra mile and we worship quality. And three is playfulness, joy, and an uplifting journey through fragrance. For me, when I combine these three geniuses of creativity, craftsmanship, and quality, and an extraordinary journey through fragrance, this is true luxury. So quality is everything to us. And how we did it is you scale up with time, you take time because only when you respect time, things that are done with time are respectable and they last forever. So we live by those values. Have you had any mentors along the way and if so, what knowledge did they impart? I did have many of them. It started at Ernst & Young where I had very smart partners and business leaders that were older than me and were able to share their experience so that I can go faster or not replicate their mistakes, or at least have the opportunity not to replicate their mistake. It’s my choice, at the end of the day. I believe in mentorship. I try to be a good mentor for others. And I think that life is all about giving and taking. With Francis, we give a lot. I give a lot and life gives back. I believe that mentorship is part of growth and is part of the give back. I was lucky to receive, and I will give back twice over.
What advice would you give to your younger self? A lot of advice. It’s easy to give advice to a younger person, but it’s also important that I wouldn’t be who I am without everything, my entire journey. If I went back, I would not influence myself to be different. However, since I was young, I believed in hard work. I believed in return on investment. I didn’t believe in instant reward, and that’s my generation. We were raised the hard way. Maybe I would advise myself to be nicer to myself, not to be as hard as I was on myself. To take time to respect my body and find a good balance between body and mind. This is the advice that I would give to myself. The notion of instant reward, which we are witnessing today with the younger generation is a source of worry to me, including in the way we hire, nurture, and try to grow our teams.
We hire a lot of young people, very talented, and they believe that everything should be given to them. You give something to someone once, it surprises them, and you make that person happy. You give it twice; you start creating expectation. You give it three times; you start creating entitlement. You give it four times; you start creating dependence. And I believe that the younger generation are at the
dependence level of instant gratification, but instant gratification doesn’t exist. You’ve worked so hard to be where you are. People come to our company and after two weeks, say, ‘Oh, I’m not doing enough creative stuff’. Two weeks!
I think that life is made of passion, self-respect, hard work. Play hard, work hard – but work hard comes before play hard. Believe in your potential and be on your axis. Don’t do things that you don’t like. Find the things that you like because you’ll excel in them – and every one of us can excel in something. If you are a fish and I ask you to climb the tree, it’s not going to work. Yeah. But if I ask you to swim fast, you can swim.
What have been the biggest challenges to date and how did you overcome them? We have no marketing. In the fragrance industry, when you go to buy perfume, you’re buying into a marketing concept. When you come to us, you’re buying fragrance that is created by one of the greatest perfumers of our time. It is like you, like Alexander McQueen who is no longer here, but we love the brand. What he brought to life is a creative vision. Francis also brings a creative vision. Francis Kurkdjian is a creator. He’s a visionary. He’s someone that creates, so, we have no marketing. At Maison Francis Kurkdjian, we are not telling you a story about a brand that was inspired from travel, where the bottle was made by this crazy designer, and this celebrity wears it – this is all marketing. The key point was to start to explain to people that we were a luxury fragrance house that celebrates creativity above all. That marketing is at the service of creativity and not the other way around.
This is The Skin Issue – what does it mean to be comfortable in your own skin? It means to accept yourself and to accept your limits. To accept that you’re not perfect. And that imperfection is beauty. To me, ecstasy is this fine line between pain and pleasure. You can’t be all pleasure or all pain – it’s this fine balance. Being good in your skin is accepting your imperfections and being happy with them, as well as accepting your good aspects and being happy with them. Accepting the balance, respecting yourself, and respecting your taste. A lot of people want to follow a trend. Well, I’m turning 50. I don’t have the body that I used to have. If I wear a skinny t-shirt, I’m not going to look nice in it. If I am not going to accept the fact that I will not look nice in it just because I want to look like a celebrity, it’s not ‘me’, but if I listen to myself and I wear things that make me comfortable, it means that I’m at ease with my body and my mind is no longer at alert. I’m happy, I’m comfortable, I accept myself, I love myself. And so, others will follow. If you love yourself, why would someone not love you?
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“Being good in your skin is accepting your imperfections and being happy with them, as well as accepting your good aspects and being happy with them.”
WORDS: SARAH JOSEPH
Second Skin
What do the first 30 minutes of your day look like, your morning routine? I usually wake up, make my sons breakfast and scoot them out of the door in about 20 minutes. I then exhale, meditate with “Terrence the Teachers” recordings, make my coffee with almond milk and start replying to (what feels like) an endless number of emails. What inspired you to launch Sana Jardin? My experience within the non-profit sector, as well as my passion for fragrance sparked the concept behind the brand. I saw a unique opportunity to help rural women through the mystical medium of perfume. In the traditional fragrance supply chain, Moroccan floral harvesters don’t have access to consistent employment, typically only working three harvests a year. They live in rural communities and have limited job skills. I wanted to create a programme for women that would help to increase their income, in addition to teaching them new skillsets. I strongly believe that the next iteration of social change can be through commerce and not limited to traditional philanthropy. Sana Jardin illustrates that luxury business can be used to drive
social change through commerce, not charity. Talk us through the creative process behind creating these formulations. We are honoured to work with Master Perfumer Carlos Benaim from IFF to create our award-winning fragrances. Carlos grew up in Morocco and resonated with our brand vision and ethos. When briefing Carlos on a new scent, I tend to focus on places and moments rather than actual ingredients. We set the scene, but Carlos uses his expert nose and imagination to fill in the details. What are the key ingredients infused in these scents and how are they gentle on the skin? The key ingredients have to be rose, jasmine and orange blossom. All of which are handpicked by the floral harvesters in the Sana Jardin co-operative. Each perfume is as naturally leaning as possible and harnesses the healing life force of plants with a concentration of 15-20 per cent perfumed essential oils. The entire collection is vegan, and free from parabens, formaldehydes, artificial colourants, BHT, polycyclic musks and phthalates. All of our products are approved under the Cruelty Free International Leaping Bunny programme. Each formulation is vegan, where are the ingredients sourced from? We partner with International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) to source the beautiful ingredients in our fragrances. IFF works with local producers around the world, to provide perfumers with pure, natural, transparent, sustainable ingredients. The company has a strict ethos of complete transparency and is committed to environmental management and sustainable development.
The brand up-cycles flower waste into products. How is sustainability at the forefront of these fragrances? We are an award-winning vegan perfume brand that builds financial resiliency for rural Moroccan women through a unique social enterprise model. We pioneered the ‘Beyond Sustainability™’ movement, which in addition to sustainable sourcing and packaging, is a vehicle for the economic development of women. The Sana Jardin co-operative trains indigenous women from Morocco to become micro-entrepreneurs by upcycling the agricultural waste from the local harvests. The harvesters receive 100 per cent of the proceeds from the products they develop and sell (orange blossom water, orange blossom candles and lavender sachets.) In 2022, the women saw a 128 per cent increase in their annual income. In the co-operative, we provide supplementary training in sales, marketing, financial literacy and branding, in addition to access to distribution
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Founder and CEO of Sana Jardin, Amy Christiansen, shares what it takes to build a sustainable fragrance brand that’s gentle on the skin
“All of our fragrances are designed to be layered with each other on the body and hair to enhance one’s olfactive signature.”
channels, essentially incubating their small businesses. Through this business model, we contribute to the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals for 2030, to empower women (goal 5), promote sustainable economic growth with full, productive employment (goal 8), and ensure sustainable production practices (goal 12).
Layering is an art in the fragrance world. What are your top tips for a long-lasting scent? Several factors determine how long a perfume can last on the skin including heat, gender and skin type. Each of our fragrances are an Eau de Parfum strength. Eau de Parfum’s traditionally last longer on the skin as they contain a higher concentration of oils (12-15 per cent). Fragrance notes can play a role too — deep base notes including woods, resins, leather and tobacco are heavier in structure and evaporate slower in comparison to lighter top notes such as citrus. Application is key when it comes to increasing a perfume’s longevity. I recommend concentrating on the pulse points which exude body heat (where the blood is closest to the surface of the skin), as this can strengthen the scent and subsequently its lasting power, which includes the wrist, neck, inner elbow, or behind your
ears and knees. We’re huge fans of fragrance layering at Sana Jardin. All of our fragrances are designed to be layered with each other on the body and hair to enhance one’s olfactive signature. My current go-to is a spritz of Savage Jasmine on the hair, which is arresting and warm when combined with Sandalwood Temple on the body.
The brand has had many collaborations in the past. Which ones have stood out? I couldn’t choose one. We’ve partnered with some amazing brands including Ilia, Tata Harper, Flowerbx, Hurr, 111Skin, Ruuby and Zyne. We always ensure we partner with brands who are aligned with us in terms of ethos and key values. This is essential to build brand awareness and reach a new target audience, thus engaging with consumers in a new and exciting way.
What piece of advice would you give to your younger self? To try to not be afraid and have the wisdom and comfort that everything will work out in divine order.
This is The Skin Issue – what do you do to feel comfortable in your skin? All I need to do to feel comfortable in my own skin is feel grateful for all that life has given me and smile.
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IMAGES: SUPPLIED
PlantBased Skin Science
What do the first 30 minutes of your day look like, your morning routine? I drink water, take a quick shower, and hop on the phone for my 6am logistics meeting.
What inspired you to launch Codex Labs? I wanted to create a dermatologist-approved medical skincare line that was plant-based, cruelty-free, microbiome friendly and sustainable which didn’t exist before Codex.
All your formulas are plant-based. Was this the plan from the outset? Yes — we didn’t want to use petrochemical based ingredients to be fully sustainable (plants are renewable) and we also wanted for our products to be vegan/ halal/kosher.
Your career transitioned from a scientist to a skincare entrepreneur. How was your experience useful in the world of beauty? My experience was useful in acquiring plant stemcell ingredients as well as designing clinical trials. We’re not a beauty company, we’re a skin-tech company.
The brand puts sustainability at the forefront. How was this a challenge and how did you overcome it? Five years ago, there was little packaging based on renewable sugarcane or biomass and getting the Carbon Footprint of ingredients was very difficult.
Tell us about the key products from Codex Labs? Our best sellers are Bia Skin Superfood and Facial Oil for dry, flaky skin; Antü serum, moisturizer and night cream to recover from photo-ageing, pollution, and inflammation and Shaant Foaming Cleanser, Toner and Oil control cream for oily, acne-prone skin. The DermSCORE 1.0 on the website provides a personalised skincare analysis for customers – talk us through this process. It’s really simple. You take a selfie and about 10-20 seconds the later the software reports back your inflammations (pimples), comedones such as blackheads and whiteheads and pigmentation spots to later track your progress. What’s the biggest skincare myth according to you? Overuse of cosmetics will not make your skin healthier and better. Chemical peels and retinols when overused 'will' damage your skin. It’s short-term gain for long-term loss. This is The Skin Issue – talk us through your skincare routine. I have a minimalist routine. I wash with the Shaant foaming cleanser and then apply the Antu serum. In the morning, I apply the Antu moisturizer and at night the Antu Night Cream. I always remove makeup before going to bed. I add the Bia Facial Oil to protect my skin and microbiome before applying SPF. Most SPFs do a total number on your natural microbiome – don’t forget that Zinc Oxide is a natural anti-bacterial, so if you constantly apply SPF without a barrier layer, you’re killing your microbiome. For removing normal makeup, the Shaant foaming cleanser works well. If I have done a photoshoot and have layers of caked mascara, I will use the Bia Cleansing oil to remove this.
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Founder of Codex Labs, Dr Barbara Paldus discusses leading with biotech innovation and creating formulas grounded in science and nature
WORDS: SARAH JOSEPH
WORDS: CAMILLE MACAWILI
Natural Instinct
What do the first 30 minutes of your day look like, your morning routine? Family holds immense importance in my life, which is why I prioritise spending quality time with my son in the morning. Each day, I make it a point to have breakfast together and drive him to school. This allows me to dedicate the first half an hour of my day solely to my son. What was the catalyst to launch your own business? Since my childhood, I have been passionate about beauty and natural mixes, influenced by my mother. Even in Morocco, it was common for us to engage in rituals and preparations involving masks, mother-daughter bonding, hair oils, and homemade scrubs. Upon arriving in Dubai, I was unable to find any products that aligned with my preferences. I felt lost and at that time, niche brands offering organic products had not yet entered the market, leaving mass-produced and complicated options as the only choices. This frustration motivated me to seek out a solution, not just for others but also for myself.
Growing up surrounded by abundant natural ingredients like Argan oil, clay, and Moroccan soap, I didn’t fully grasp their significance until I interacted with people from different backgrounds. It was then that I realized the immense value of these beauty treasures I had left behind. People would ask me to bring back argan oil, rose water, ghassoul clay – so there was a clear demand for these products. This realization sparked the idea of an untapped market: where these heritage Moroccan ingredients were highly sought after internationally. I also felt a strong sense of patriotism and responsibility to showcase Morocco’s beauty heritage on a global scale. I wanted to lead the way and promote the abundance of natural ingredients that our country possesses. With our expertise, understanding of the ingredients, and knowledge of consumer needs, we had a solid foundation to make this vision a reality. Working in L’Oréal further highlighted how multinational brands could leverage resources from different countries, strategically position themselves, and create value under their own brand names. This realization led me to understand
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IZIL Beauty’s Founder and CEO Mouna Abassy shares about leaving the corporate world and navigating the successes and setbacks of building an all-natural beauty brand rooted in Moroccan heritage
the value of a Moroccan brand that could compete with international brands in terms of quality, packaging, communication, and strategy. Why did you choose to base your business in Dubai? It was never my plan to create the brand when I arrived in Dubai; it was more about seeking international exposure. However, being in Dubai exposed me to a diverse range of nationalities and opportunities, and I fell in love with the city. While we could have chosen to establish our business outside the UAE, we realized that Dubai was the best choice. It serves as a global hub, allowing us to reach customers from all over the world. Having a presence in such a key city is instrumental to the success of our business.
You’ve had an incredible journey since you founded IZIL in 2012. Are there any milestones you are most proud of? We have achieved several significant milestones throughout our journey. Firstly, a major milestone was the opening of our first kiosk in 2014, marking our entry into the retail mar ket. Another pivotal moment was when we upgraded from a kiosk to a dedicated store in Dubai Mall. Additionally, the launch of our spa service was another notable mile stone for our brand. In 2019, we reached another milestone by establishing our own manufacturing unit and laboratory in the UAE. Furthermore, we take pride in our remarkable team growth, expanding from a small group of three to four individuals to now having over 100-130 team members. Our achievements have also been recog nized externally, with highlights including receiving the esteemed Cartier Women’s Initiative award. These milestones serve as markers of our progress and the success we have achieved over the years.
As a relatively new startup in the beauty industry, are there any difficulties you’ve faced and what did this teach you? Difficulties are inevitable in every business or job, as they are part of the learning pro cess. Cash flow issues often emerge, and it becomes a make-or-break situation. We faced this challenge head-on by meticulously managing our finances and carefully considering every expenditure. In a startup, outsourcing is often not feasible, so we had to embrace the mindset of selflearning. As an entrepreneur starting with limited funds, it is essential to acquire the skills to minimize costs unless external funding is available.
The key to overcoming these challenges is to maintain curiosity and remain open to constant learning. Stepping out of your comfort zone is crucial. Nowadays, knowledge is readily available on the internet, and it is vital to leverage this resource. Cultivating a mindset for continuous learning becomes paramount in navigating difficulties and ensuring the success of your venture.
What have you learnt about the overall brand-building process and what advice would you give to those wanting to carve out their own pioneering career path? Building a brand is a long-term journey that requires patience. It requires consistency in communication, investment, and a clear vision for the future. It’s important to differentiate between building a brand and solely pursuing immediate financial gains. While quick sales can generate fast money, building a brand requires sustained efforts and may not yield immediate returns.
It’s crucial to have a clear vision for your brand’s future and remain committed to it, even if the approach and strategies evolve over time. In the case of Izil, we have rebranded multiple times as
we have evolved and gained resources. However, our vision has remained unchanged. Building a brand is about maintaining a consistent and linear vision but evolving along with the market and consumer mindset. It’s a long-term commitment that requires patience, investment, and unwavering determination.
Where would you like it to go in the future? Izil has a clear vision to become a globally recognized Moroccan-Arab brand, celebrating and elevating the rich beauty and heritage of Morocco.
Your products are developed and manufactured in the UAE. Can you share with us what goes into the creation of a new product? Our product development process starts by understanding the needs and feedback of consumers. We conduct market research, keeping a pulse on current trends and what people are looking for. This information guides our R&D department in creating various options that incorporate the essence of Moroccan heritage and rituals. Next comes the trial phase, where we rigorously test the products in our laboratory to ensure their safety, efficacy, and proper preservation. Each ingredient used in our formulas undergoes thorough quality control measures. Prior to eaching the consumer, our products undergo another round of quality assurance and control during the production process. We take pride in our commitment to using 96% natural formulas. Our products are organic, safe, cruelty-free, and free from sulphates, parabens, GMOs, alcohol, and silicone. Each product we offer is unique, efficient, and carefully crafted to meet the specific needs of our valued customers. What are the hero products? Our Green Tea Brightening Set draws inspiration from the Moroccan tradition of drinking tea, as we discovered that green tea is rich in antioxidants, a key factor in maintaining great skin. This set harnesses the power of green tea to provide nourishment and brightness to the skin, reflecting the secret behind the Moroccan skincare glow. The Aker Fassi Radiance Booster Set showcases an elevated approach to using an ancient Moroccan ingredient that has been cherished for centuries. This set unlocks the incredible glow and nourishing properties of Aker Fassi, offering a truly transformative experience for the skin.
One of our best-selling breakthrough products is Densify, a unique formula that competes with advanced hair treatments targeting hair loss and promoting hair growth. This innovative solution has garnered immense popularity, delivering exceptional results and transforming the hair care experience. At IZIL, we continuously strive to create exceptional products that highlight the richness of Moroccan ingredients and traditions, ensuring our customers experience remarkable benefits for their skin and hair.
This is The Skin Issue – what does it mean to be comfortable in your own skin? Being comfortable in my own skin means finding inner peace and accepting oneself is essential for cultivating self-confidence. It’s important to acknowledge that perfection is unattainable for anyone. Instead, value your unique qualities and embrace them with a sense of inner peace. Recognize your strengths and weaknesses, focusing on self-improvement and personal growth. Avoid comparing your journey to others and instead strive to compete with yourself, constantly seeking progress and self-improvement. By embracing this mindset, you can foster confidence and live a more fulfilling life.
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“We take pride in our commitment to using 96% natural formulas.”
WORDS: RUMAN BAIG
The Age of Ayurveda
What do the first 30 minutes of your day look like, your morning routine? I start with a cup of lemon and honey tea. I make notes the previous night on whatever is on my mind and go through those including anything that requires action while having my morning tea. Then I wash my face first with warm water and an Ubtan (powdered scrubs that are regarded as one of the most efficacious Ayurvedic recipes) or cleanser and splash ice cold water. Then it’s yoga for 20 minutes. What is the heart of Forest Essentials, the DNA? What is wonderful about Ayurveda is that it is a lifestyle – to help consumers not only look beautiful but feel beautiful. Authentic Ayurvedic products offer a complete holistic experience, which harmonises the mind, body and soul.
While the packaging and bottling processes are modern, the actual making and formulations of all our products still follow age-old and labour-intensive techniques. We continue to combine the knowledge of Vaids (Ayurvedic practitioners) and modern biochemists, which while keeping the inherent properties of Ayurveda intact, are wonderfully scented and pleasurable to use.
Forest Essentials brings the ancient formulas of Ayurveda in a contemporary way to the modern consumer; how do you strike that balance? Forest Essentials started as a vision to bring Ayurveda to those who wanted pure, effective products that work for their skin. We believe that every product must be as enjoyable to use as it is
effective, so texture, smell and formulation are all important. Our emphasis is on efficacy, sensorial experience and pleasure of usage —the touch, feel, sight, sound and taste of our textures, their ingredients and formulas. Adopting traditional formulations and methods of manufacturing, we use only the purest, fresh, seasonal and natural ingredients. Over the last 20 years in India, the brand has been revolutionary in creating a luxury Ayurveda segment by combining the ancient beauty rituals of Ayurveda with a simplistic and modern aesthetic, which did not exist earlier. What first ignited your interest in the science of Ayurveda? In 2000, there was no market for freshly prepared products that used pure ingredients. We realised that substandard ingredients and adulterated oils were used to keep the prices low, and we wanted to change that.
I had been involved in a co-operative movement in Rishikesh (Uttarakhand) that focused on procuring and marketing handmade products. I was trying to understand how Ayurvedic soaps could be made and realised that Rishikesh could be an ideal location to get started. It is an Ayurvedic and wellness hub, home to hundreds of Ayurvedic doctors and dotted with tiny pharmacies selling homemade soaps, oils, lotions, creams, and much more. What intrigued me the most was the fact that these local products were all natural and free from any chemicals or preservatives.
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Mira Kulkarni, founder of Forest Essentials, discusses the significance of Ayurveda in beauty and why Middle East is the next hot spot for the brand
“To help consumers not only look beautiful but feel beautiful.”
I soon realised the downside as local people could only sell their produce to low and middle-income consumers. The local vendors told me they could make purer products, but buyers wouldn’t be willing to pay more. I thought otherwise. I believed that people would invest in the purest ingredients and highest quality products if they were available, which was the basis of Ayurveda. The products sold and became best-sellers, contrary to popular perception. This was a revolutionary time for the Indian Beauty Industry as it created a new segment known as Luxury Ayurveda.
“If you cannot eat it, do not put it on your skin.” Can you elaborate on this theory? Ayurveda sets much higher standards than "acceptable" levels of government regulations because its basic view on health and its concept of “natural” is at once more encompassing and refined. Having ‘tested’ its theories for 6000 years, directly on human subjects, Ayurveda may justifiably claim to know the long-term effects of its treatments and products.
Although we get most of our nutrition orally, the skin ingests nutrients as well. In fact, unlike the food we chew and swallow before it is absorbed, creams, lotions, and oils bypass the digestive process and go full strength into the blood stream. Like all ingested substances they either can become raw material for building new body cells and tissues — or potent toxic material unbelievably harmful for your body. Think of your beauty products, not as cosmetics, but as food. If you cannot eat it, do not use it on your skin — is the Ayurvedic standard for pure and natural.
It is important to read the labels of your beauty products. It is important to know that organically grown unprocessed cold pressed oils have the highest levels of nutrients for your skin. Skin is alive and chemicals cannot give back life into the skin. Beauty products made of living substances such as plants or their extracts are balanced by nature and contain the vibratory energy that constitutes life. By plants, we mean all forms of vegetation, including trees, flowers, fruit, vegetables, herbs and spices. These living substances contain all the purifying, nutritive and balancing properties necessary to nurture the skin and slow down the ageing process. They are the perfect food for the skin. Having worked with modern biochemists on Ayurveda-led products for years, can you take us through the ideation process? I handle R&D (research and development) myself and we don’t go down the route of what most brands do which is to do consumer surveys or identify the gap in the market. We work in a different way as the ideation begins with finding a traditional recipe that has something special and something that is not available. The focus has always been toward going back in time; looking at old manuscripts, ancient recipes and finally finding Vaids (Ayurvedic practitioners) who are able to translate those recipes into a more modern-day adaptation, while always keeping the inherent properties of Ayurveda intact. What led to scaling the brand and the launch of Forest Essentials in the UAE? The beauty industry is extremely competitive, comprising a diverse range of everyday essentials, luxury goods and personal services. Consumers rely on the beauty industry for a multitude of needs every day. Such demand and innovation have put the beauty sector at the centre of UAE’s economy, while also establishing a cultural footprint. Additionally, the raised awareness around human rights and climate change has led consumers to be more selective and demanding of business practices, by prioritising brands that value transparency and are purpose-led in their messaging and practices.
Through insights on purchase behaviour of our global customers via our international website, we have built equity and a strong preference for the brand and its vast repertoire and fresh seasonal formulations, and thus the decision to foray into UAE, works well with what our brand stands for. Today, we are market leaders and wellpositioned to build upon our success in India and expand internationally, with the opening of our first flagship store in Dubai in May 2023. Which Forest Essentials products would you recommend for the Middle Eastern consumers? Advanced Soundarya Age Defying Facial Serum With 24K Gold: The first product from our iconic Soundarya collection, this Age Defying Serum is formulated according to ancient Ayurvedic recipes, using pure, 24 Karat Gold Bhasma (a powerful age-defying agent) that is infused in a mix of pure Desi Ghee, fresh Cow’s Milk, efficacious herbs and roots. It is then simmered over a slow fire and left to cure in copper vessels which impart their own therapeutic properties to the Serum to make it more effective for the skin.
Advanced Eternal Youth Formula Date & Litchi: This night cream is prepared during ‘Brahmamuhutra’ – the hours before dawn that are considered to be the most auspicious time of the day. Succulent Date and Litchi fruits are hand-plucked and soaked in fresh, steam-distilled Rosewater, and left buried underground in clay pots, to ferment for 30-40 days. This high-performing night cream also contains Hydrolyzed Manihot Esculenta Tuber extract, Polyglutamic Acid (Fermented Soybean) and Bakuchiol. In its final stage, the cream is hand-blended while priests chant special mantras to imbibe positive vibrations and energy into the cream –further elevating its potency. The skin is left feeling firmed and replenished, with a satin sheen.
Advanced Sanjeevani Beauty Elixir: This silken elixir contains the legendary Sanjeevani herb which drenches the skin in a surge of moisture with restorative and anti-ageing properties and is infused with high-performing actives including Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract and Hyaluronic Acid. The emollient pre-moisturiser is meticulously crafted using an ancient process, known as Hima Kashaya Kalpana or ‘cold-water infusion’.
This is The Skin Issue – what does it mean to be comfortable in your own skin? This means being comfortable with the way you look and feel. We all have something special – it could be clear skin, or lustrous hair or a beautiful smile. We need to know that and enjoy our individuality.
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“We all have something special – it could be clear skin, or lustrous hair or a beautiful smile. We need to know that and enjoy our individuality.”
WORDS: SARAH JOSEPH
The Aesthetic Expert
Specialist Plastic Surgeon and CEO at The Nova Clinic & Aesthetics, Dr Jaffer Khan discusses a skincare first approach
What do the first 30 minutes of your day look like, your morning routine? Recently, because I am far more focused on wellness and following some of the protocols of functional medicine, I try to wake up and start by drinking a litre of water along with supplements like NAD which help to kick start the day. I will then do around 20 minutes of floor exercises which includes some abdominal workout and stretching. On most days, I will usually then miss breakfast and fast except Monday when I am operating. Tell us about your career to date. I would say that largely my career has been in the UAE, much more than in the United Kingdom where I trained and left as a Consultant. I came here in 1998 and set up the Plastic Surgery department at the Welcare Hospital and then used to cover at the American Hospital for emergencies until about 2000 when I launched my own private practice. Since then, the practice has moved from hand surgery, burns and reconstruction to largely aesthetics surgery and skin cancer work which I do a lot of now. When I came here, there were only three Plastic Surgeons and now there are over 350 so it has been very interesting to see how both Dubai and the specialty have grown over the years. It has indeed been a very happy and profes-
Thread lifts have previously been a popular treatment – is this something which is safe? There are two aspects to facial ageing. One is gravitational and the second is volume loss. Largely if these two are addressed along with the skincare routine, we can actually rejuvenate the face quite nicely. The thread lifts are a form of anti-gravitational therapy under local anesthetic. Threads with cones so to speak which engage the pullback on the skin itself and create a fresher look in the face. It is important to use the right type of threads and also to have a thoughtful technique driven process. Patients should be aware that really, we shouldn’t look for more than one year of improvement at very best and that this is a procedure which is meant for those who are possibly not going to consider surgery and do not mind a local anesthetic.
What are the latest skincare treatments that customers in the Middle East are leaning towards? For me the ones that are gaining the most popularity right now are the radiofrequency and micro-needling procedures. These are energy delivery to the skin through a needling process which creates more collagen deposition and skin tightening. Also quite popular now are broadband light treatments (BBL) which is an exceptional machine and creates much better skin tone and texture, reducing red lines as well as pigmentation. And also, in most recent times have been described as changing the genomics of the skin so true antiageing so to speak.
Botox works as a preventive anti-ageing tool – what are the key precautions to be aware of? Botox has been around for at least half a century now and generally speaking, is considered safe. It works for the dynamic lines, those that are caused by the movement of muscles and creates creases on the skin which result in collagen loss and hence fixed lines. The key precautions are essentially to be able to target the muscles we want to and to prevent migration of the Botox into muscles that we don’t want treated. This however can happen, and it is more common (of the order of 1 per cent) on the forehead when treating the frown lines. There can be some migration on the eyelid muscle, which is the muscle that is responsible for keeping the eyelid open and this can cause and result in a droopy eyelid. This is called Ptosis. Patients are always warned about the possibility of this and if it happens, the effects are transient and will most likely be resolved in approximately three weeks’ time. Good thing about Botox is ultimately it wears off and there are no permanent side effects from the treatment.
sionally rewarding career here in the UAE. As mentioned, previously the reconstructive aspect of it has largely gone away per se because of the demands of the market. We still do reconstruction post skin cancer excision, and I would even classify aesthetics surgery of the breast as a form of reconstruction although it is aesthetic reconstruction so to speak. With regards to burns and hand surgery, it is something that one can pick up again if needed to but obviously you would have to read the recent literature and feel comfortable that you are up to date with the recent developments and as I don’t have much time for that, I have pretty much stopped that practice.
What advice would you give to those considering plastic surgery? I believe that the most important thing when considering plastic surgery is to educate yourself. We all have some aesthetic concerns and sometimes these can be addressed with a low risk to benefit ratio. What I mean is that although risk exists in every treatment, the benefits are great because the indications for the surgery are right. In this case, when you have understood potential side effects and also made sure that it is something affordable to you, it would be sensible to go ahead, if what you want and what the surgeon can deliver are
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aligned. Therefore it is important to talk to a couple of surgeons when considering a major decision to have any face or body surgery. How is Nova Clinic advancing its offering in an ever-moving industry? Nova Clinic is investing heavily in good quality machines with a proven track record. We invest in training the staff as well as maintaining quality standards of hygiene and ensuring that these are all done in a relaxing, calm and quality surroundings. We are always trying to be as innovative as possible and to be ahead of the curve when implementing new technology. What are the key skincare treatments that the clinic has to offer? Starting from the surface of the skin to deeper, we can offer Broadband light, carbon dioxide laser, erbium lasers as well and Moxi treatments. We have two mi-
cro needling systems, Infini and Morpheus and we also have devices for ultrasonic energy delivery to tissues resulting in skin tightening and these devices are Ultra-former and Ulthera. We are doing a number of combined treatments with HydraFacial to optimize skin cleansing and we emphasize on having a healthy skin, also by advising on diet and exercise. We also recently introduced Exosomal treatment and Stem cell treatment for the skin of the face and neck as well as the hair. This is The Skin Issue – talk us through your skincare routine. Interestingly I have been asked this question a few times. Really, I don’t do very much. Obviously in the industry that we are in, we are often inundated with different samples of creams, gels and liquid to help improve skin tone and texture and although I try this from time to time, I have only routinely ever used aloe vera gel.
Recently, we have formulated a cream derived from plant-based stem cells which I’m liking quite a lot but generally I myself don’t have a fixed routine in my skincare regime, however, that does not mean one should not have it. I believe that avoidance of too much sun as well as adequate hydration and peeling the upper layers of the skin as well as some form of collagen stimulation, all result in a much healthier glow to the skin.
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“We all have some aesthetic concerns and sometimes these can be addressed with a low risk to benefit ratio.”
Skin Saver
Leading skincare expert Rebecca Treston shares a gamechanging skincare approach
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WORDS: CAMILLE MACAWILI
bringing fresh oxygen to all our cells and eliminating waste products efficiently. Meditation is a tool to quieten our nervous system as stress elevates all inflammation in the body. We can really reduce these markers by practising breathwork and meditation. Lastly, good skincare and treatments. However, without the above approach, lasting health is impossible.
We see a lot of pigmentation issues especially when you live in the sun. What can be done to even skin tone if you have this issue? In-clinic treatments include Q-switch and Pico lasers as they are able to break down pigment more efficiently than other lasers. Combing those with peeling and a pigment inhibitor, and SPF, is magic. What is the best new beauty treatment you’ve implemented in your offering? It is almost impossible to say! I treat the overall skin and that is why I usually combine different energies. I absolutely love BBL as this amazing light device not only is able to treat pigmentation and vascular abnormalities, but it heats the water in the skin which stimulates the fibroblasts, leaving the skin much smoother and clearer. There is a great study by Dr Patrick Bitter on how it has been proven to change gene expression. As we age, the gene mutates, and it is almost like the old gene is switched on. With BBL, the gene expression is reversed, but it also has its limitations so it’s vital for me to combine it with devices such as Cutera’s Enlighten and Fotona’s Starwalker and Dynamis Pro, not forgetting Inmode Morpheus 8. All these treatments have specific properties, such as pulse duration, and have the power to target different depths and targets within the skin. Like most things, it’s not one thing but a combination that really creates the magic.
What led you to your career as an aesthetician? I’m not so sure but I’m certainly very thankful to my first boss who introduced me to lasers back in 1995 and ignited my passion for all things energy to treat skin.
Where do you start when it comes to working with a new client? With all new patients, we start with a consultation to see what it is they’re looking to achieve. I will then proceed to explain what I can do to meet their expectations. I have a plethora of laser and energy-based devices in order to manage the telltale signs of ageing and am generally asked what and how can I achieve it rather than the patient asking for a particular treatment. My treatment plans are designed to improve the overall health, structure and function of the skin. I generally perform three to six treatments on a monthly basis followed by maintenance treatments every three to six months. Once the initial rejuvenation is done, patients can then tweak with Botox filler and skin boosters.
What are the most common skincare issues you are seeing with your clients today? The most common problem is pigmentation and skin quality. Most of the patients have varying degrees of sun damage or Melasma, closely followed by rosacea and overall ageing.
How does lifestyle affect skincare, and do you take a 360-degree approach to overhauling the skin of your clients? Lifestyle has a huge impact on skin health. It can only be achieved by a 360-degree approach. Dubai, in particular, has a fast pace of life with most patients suffering from chronic stress. Stress is the fastest route to all chronic ageing. The good thing is people tend to be aware of this and are in the process to create a better environment for themselves. One of the main factors is sleep; after all, this is where our bodies take the time to rest, recover and repair.
Next is diet. It goes without saying that what we put into our bodies is essential to how we feel and look. Proteins are the building blocks of our cells; we need a good balanced diet to keep us optimal. Exercise is vital to improve our mental health and cardio and lymphatic systems, making sure we are
How does skin change through the decades for women and what should we be doing differently incrementally? The sad reality is that we are ageing from the age of 20 so it’s important to prevent and protect from as early as possible. Sun protection is vital. Establishing a healthy diet and exercise regime as early as possible is essential so that it becomes second nature. For those aged 15-30: establish good habits and skincare. Keep it simple. Cleanse, moisturise, SPF and introduce a retinol or active ingredients in the evening. Microdermabrasion or hydra facials to help the skin function. For those in their 30-40s: introduce some energy-based devices and even some muscle relaxing injections and skin boosters to help treat the first signs of ageing and to promote collagen and elastin to help not only the function but to keep the structure strong. For ages 4060: much of the same with maybe some supplements and hormone replacement to preserve skin health.
What are the overall biggest skincare mistakes people can make? Applying too many products and irritating or damaging the skin barrier and doing too many treatments. Everything in moderation. There is always a fine line. Go to a reputable skincare professional for early advice so you avoid mistakes.
What products are your non-negotiable go-tos? A good cleanser and good moisturiser, depending on skin type. Retinol or acid but of course, the holy grail is a great SPF. What treatment is the best investment for all skin types? BBL or a variable pulsed Nd-YAG laser, why? So, we can treat more ageing elements. In one technology or wavelength. What is a beauty philosophy you personally subscribe to? Keep it simple but effective. It’s a combination of diet, exercise, sleep, and treatments. Treatments alone will not give great skin health.
This is The Skin Issue – what is your biggest skincare secret? Lasers and evidence-based dermatology (EBD) are the quickest way to improve skin health!
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“Lifestyle has a huge impact on skin health. It can only be achieved by a 360-degree approach.”
Laser Focused
We speak to Founder of Ivory Aesthetics
Clinic, Shohreh Bagherian on the benefits of using laser for smooth skin
What do the first 30 minutes of your day look like, your morning routine? My morning routine starts with a celery juice and checking my emails. After this, I start my skincare routine, which is lighter and not as intense as my nighttime routine. I spray rosewater on my face and apply a serum depending on how my skin feels. This will be either a hydration serum or antioxidant serum for protection. Then I apply a hydrating moisturizer, eye cream and SPF50. How did you know it was the right time to launch Ivory Aesthetics Clinic and which steps previously led you to this path? Since I was young, I have dreamt of giving good energy to people. I studied beauty and I started my passion from a very small room in my house and ended up growing so fast that I could not accommodate everyone and decided to move out of the house and open a small place. This small place grew into a very serious professional establishment. Ivory Clinic is now ten years old. What is the DNA of the brand? At Ivory Aesthetics we always strive to maintain a high level of professionalism in all aspects of how we operate, from the qualifications of our team to the quality of our service and the cleanliness and safety of our facility. What sets us apart from other clinics is our patient-centric care. We prioritise the needs and concerns of our patients, providing them with personalized care to address their unique goals and concerns. Our mission and purpose, is to stay up to date with the latest technology and techniques in the market, continually
seeking to improve our services and stay ahead of the curve. We approach our clients with empathy and understanding, we take the time to listen and to make them comfortable.
How challenging has it been to stay ahead of the curve in such a fast-paced industry? Staying ahead of the curve in the fast-paced aesthetic industry can be quite challenging, as new treatments, technologies and techniques are constantly being developed and introduced. We need to stay up-to-date with the latest advancements in the field if we want to remain competitive and continue to attract clients. We invest in ongoing training and education for our team to ensure that they are knowledgeable and skilled in the latest techniques and treatments. It is important for us to differentiate ourselves from other clinics by offering unique and innovative treatments. This includes customizing treatments to meet the specific needs of individual clients, or developing proprietary treatments that can’t be found elsewhere. I believe that these attributes help us maintain our position as leader in the industry. In Dubai especially, the competition is so high, but we strive to focus on our own quality and strengths, and always share with our clients our experience and knowledge
What are the benefits of laser for hair removal? Benefits of laser hair removal is to target hair follicles with precision, without damaging the surrounding skin. To treat large areas of the body quickly and efficiently, with multiple treatments, laser hair removal can provide long-lasting results, with many clients experiencing permanent hair reduction, reduced risk of ingrown hairs, unlike shaving or waxing, it reduces the risk of ingrown hairs and skin irritations. You will also notice the improvement of your skin quality.
How many sessions do you need to be completely hair free? The number of sessions required for laser hair removal to achieve complete hair removal varies from person to person and depends on several factors, including your hair type, hair colour, skin colour, and the specific area being treated. On average, most individuals require a series of multiple sessions to achieve long-term
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WORDS: AMY SESSIONS IMAGE: GETTY IMAGES
hair reduction. Typically, you can expect to undergo anywhere from 6 to 12 sessions spaced several weeks apart for optimal results. However, it’s important to note that complete hair removal may not be achievable for everyone, as laser hair removal typically leads to significant hair reduction rather than permanent hair elimination. Some fine or lighter hairs may persist, but they are often much finer and less noticeable than before. To get a more accurate estimate and personalized recommendation, it is best to consult with our qualified laser therapist at the clinic. They can assess your specific situation and provide a treatment plan tailored to your needs. What precautions do you need to take before and after using laser?
Before Laser Hair Removal:
1. Avoid sun exposure: It’s essential to avoid direct sun exposure and tanning beds for at least two weeks before your laser hair removal session. Sunburned or tanned skin is more susceptible to side effects like blistering, pigmentation changes, and increased sensitivity.
2. Shave the treatment area: Shave the area to be treated a day or two before your session. This ensures that the laser energy is focused on the hair follicles rather than the surface hair.
3. Avoid waxing, plucking, or electrolysis: Laser hair removal targets the hair follicle, so it’s important to avoid any hair removal methods that disturb the hair root, such as waxing, plucking, or electrolysis, for at least four weeks before the treatment.
4. Avoid certain skincare products: Refrain from using skincare products that contain retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) for a week before the session. These ingredients can make your skin more sensitive and increase the risk of side effects.
After Laser Hair Removal:
1. Protect your skin from the sun: After laser hair removal, your skin may be more sensitive to sunlight. It’s crucial to protect the treated areas by applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher whenever you go outside. Covering the treated areas with clothing or using a wide-brimmed hat is also beneficial.
2. Avoid heat exposure: Avoid activities that can increase your body temperature, such as hot baths, saunas, hot tubs, or intense exercise for at least 24 to 48 hours after the treatment. Heat can further irritate the treated skin.
3. Keep the treated area clean: Gently cleanse the treated area with a mild cleanser and lukewarm water. Avoid using harsh soaps or scrubs that can irritate the skin.
4. Avoid irritants and exfoliants: For a few days following the treatment, avoid using products that may irritate your skin, such as perfumes, fragrances, exfoliating scrubs, or other harsh chemicals.
5. Let the hair shed naturally: It’s normal for treated hairs to shed in the weeks following the session. Avoid picking, scratching, or plucking the treated area to allow the hair to fall out naturally.
6. Always follow the specific aftercare instructions provided by your laser hair removal therapist to ensure the best results and minimize the risk of side effects.
Does laser therapy suit all skin types? Laser therapy is a versatile treatment option for various skin concerns, but it may not be suitable for all skin types. The effectiveness and safety of laser therapy can vary depending on the specific laser technology used and the individual’s skin type. Laser devices are designed to target specific chromophores
(such as melanin in hair follicles or pigmented lesions) or specific components of the skin (such as water, collagen, or blood vessels). The interaction between the laser light and these targets can cause heating or destruction of the targeted tissue. Different skin types have varying amounts of melanin, which determines their skin colour and makes them more or less susceptible to side effects from laser therapy. Generally, individuals with lighter skin tones and darker hair tend to be better candidates for laser treatments. However, advancements in laser technology have allowed for safer and more effective treatments for individuals with darker skin tones as well.
It’s important to note that certain types of lasers, such as those targeting melanin, may carry a higher risk of complications for individuals with darker skin. These risks include hyperpigmentation (darkening of the skin) or hypopigmentation (lightening of the skin) in the treated areas. Therefore, it’s crucial to consult with a qualified laser therapist or licensed professional experienced in laser treatments to determine the most suitable approach for your specific skin type and concerns.
They will assess your skin type, hair colour, medical history, and other relevant factors to determine if laser therapy is appropriate for you or if an alternative treatment option would be more suitable. They may also adjust the laser settings or choose a specific laser technology that is better suited for your skin type to minimize the risk of complications and maximize the effectiveness of the treatment. How has social media supported scaling the business? Social media has allowed us to establish a strong presence in the region and simultaneously reach a broader audience and increased brand visibility. By sharing informative and engaging content, we get to showcase our expertise, services, and patient results, attracting potential clients and driving traffic to our clinic. Social media also provides an opportunity to build a community, something which is key for every business today.
Have you had any mentors and if so, what advice did they impart? My mentor has been my desire to learn. I have invested time in learning, growing and establishing a deep knowledge of both the beauty and business side of the industry.
What advice would you give your younger self? If I could choose to go back to my younger age I would have studied more towards the medical field, not only aesthetics as I believe that everything works together from inside out. External beauty is connected to the internal as well as factors such as hormones, stress and lifestyle.
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NONNEGOTIABLES
Incredible
WORDS: SARAH JOSEPH
Dr. Barbara Sturm
FOUNDER – DR. BARBARA STUM
What are the non-negotiable staples in your skincare routine? My philosophy is that every skincare routine, regardless of age or gender should combat inflammation, deeply hydrate and nurture the skin and be packed with highly active anti-ageing properties without the use of aggressive ingredients. The most basic skincare regimen requires, Cleansing
with my cleanser, and alternating with an exfoliator twice a week, like my facial scrub or enzyme cleanser, to gently slough off dead skin and impurities; the second is applying a Hyaluronic Acid-based serum that’s packed with potent, active ingredients which replenish moisture reservoirs and promote the skin’s barrier function, like my Hyaluronic serum; and ending with a great moisturizer like my face cream. A modern, innovative skincare routine always includes a serum as well as a face cream – it should never replace it – both are necessary. And my sun drops spf 50 is a necessity even on cloudy days for broad spectrum sun protection. That’s just five products and it’s enough to cover the skin’s fundamental needs.
What product is your forever non-negotiable? My products are like my children – I can’t choose a favourite – but if I had to it would be my hyaluronic serum. Hydration is the core of my philosophy, and my serum is so fundamental, I call it the ‘white t-shirt’ of my skincare line. It contains a powerful blend of high, medium and low weighted Hyaluronic Acid molecules which deliver immediate, firming moisture to the surface and deeper layers of the skin and leaves your complexion feeling instantly refreshed and radiant. My formula also contains Purslane – it’s packed full of anti-inflammatory nutrients and antioxidants such as omega-3 fatty ac-
ids and skin-beneficial minerals like calcium, magnesium and potassium. Purslane is also known to be a telomerase activator – an enzyme capable of creating new protective ends on cellular chromosomes called telomeres. These have been studied by Harvard to not only slow the ageing process but reverse it to provide the ultimate anti-ageing result. What lifestyle habits that support your skin are non-negotiable? Getting inflammation under control is essential for overall body and skin health. Following an anti-inflammatory lifestyle and skincare routine is the best route to staying healthy. It includes eating a diet rich in anti-inflammatory foods, enjoying daily exercise and reducing stress through techniques such as meditation. Prioritising a good night’s sleep is also another non-negotiable part of my beauty regime. At night our skin regenerates, producing more collagen and growth hormone and less skin-harming cortisol, making this a critical period for cellular rejuvenation and related processes. I don’t drink much, I don’t eat big, heavy meals close to bedtime and I do not look at a digital device close to bedtime — the blue light emitted from screens triggers the fight or flight hormone Cortisol that keeps you awake. I also take my Good Night supplements before bed. It’s a blend of natural active ingredients that relax the body and mind and helps you fall asleep sooner and deeper.
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women we know discuss the skincare essentials they do not deviate from
Claire Miller
FOUNDER – THE SKINCARE EDIT ARABIA
What are the non-negotiable staples in your skincare routine? A gentle cleanser, a multifunctional serum and a great SPF. Three perfected essentials delivering clean, protected, hydrated skin.
What product is your forever non-negotiable? Votary Rose and Apricot Cleansing Oil. It’s a joy to use, incredibly effective and effortless. It starts my skincare ritual on the right note every time, helping me stay consistent even on the busiest days.
What lifestyle habits that support your skin are non-negotiable? Beauty sleep is always a top priority for me as part of my body and mind skin philosophy. My diet, activity levels and stress management all align much better when I’ve slept well. It’s becomes a positive cascade effect. Sleep is also our bodies own way of repairing and rejuvenating the skin.
Joud Odeh
FOUNDER – BRAU
What are the non-negotiables staples in your skincare routine? The skincare routines I always abide by are taking my makeup off before going to bed, applying SPF every morning and using a cleanser every morning and evening.
What product is your forever non-negotiable? I’ve been using the Pixi Glow Tonic for years. I use it every morning after my cleanser, it helps remove dead skin cells and softens the skin prior to my moisturizer application. What lifestyle habits that support your skin are non-negotiable? My non-negotiables for my skin are drinking plenty of water, getting a good amount of sleep, applying SPF every morning and a deep cleansing and hydrating facial once a month.
Nora Al Ramadhan
CEO AND CO-FOUNDER –APOTHECA BEAUTY
What are the non-negotiable staples in your skincare routine? A gentle cleanser (as I tend to wash my face about three times a day on average) and toner to rebalance my skin’s PH levels while gently exfoliating. My go-to cleanser at the moment is the Tatcha Rice Wash. For my toner, I am currently loving the Omoroicza Silver Skin Tonic.
What product is your forever non-negotiable? SPF is my forever non-negotiable. As I have an olive skin tone, I pigment very easily so I am always cautious of making sure to take care of my skin and prolong its natural elasticity as much as possible.
What lifestyle habits that support your skin are non-negotiable? Exercise, eight hours of sleep and my morning collagen powder that I either have mixed with my coffee or almond milk.
Mary Yee
CEO — TATCHA
What are the non-negotiable staples in your skincare routine? The Water Cream is an absolute staple in my skincare routine. I love that it feels like a burst of water every time I apply it, and it leaves a pore-refining, mattifying finish. It contains wild rose and leopard lily to help minimize excess oil production and calm the skin
What product is your forever non-negotiable? It would be The Essence. It contains Hadasei-3™, Tatcha’s proprietary complex, that is rooted in the nutrient-dense Japanese diet, known to boost longevity. Double-fermented rice, green tea, and algae go deeper than water to channel nutrients into the skin, boosting the efficacy of your skincare ritual, while replenishing the skin’s moisture barrier for a plump, supple complexion.
What lifestyle habits that support your skin are non-negotiable? Growing up, my grandmother, who is now 100 years young, practiced daily rituals of wellbeing inspired by eastern culture that I never fully appreciated until I got older. Over the years, I’ve learned to appreciate her approach to mindfulness as a connection to wellbeing. I now emulate this with creating space to reset each day with an intentional ritual while doing my skincare routine which includes purifying with The Camellia Cleansing Oil: I close my eyes to think of anything in the day that stuck to me, and just let it go with my makeup and the physical residue of the day, polish with the Rice Polish: Deep: As I exfoliate, I think about anything during the day where I didn’t hit the mark and remind myself that I can always begin again. With our skin, as with ourselves, we can always shed the old and start anew, plump with The Essence — As I press the formula in and replenish my skin, I think about replenishing my energy. As women, we spend so much of our time taking care of others that we can deplete ourselves. It’s a reminder to give back to yourself as much as you give to others and Nourish with The Water Cream — As I seal in moisture for my last step, I envision also sealing myself into a cocoon of care that’s given to me by the people in my life. This reminds me that for all I give throughout the day, there are always people who are caring for me in return.
Barkha Shewakramani
FOUNDER – BARKHA BEAUTY
What are the non-negotiable staples in your skincare routine? My skin tends to be very dry and sensitive due to lupus and the medications I’m on hence the products I apply on my skin have to be very carefully chosen. My
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absolute non-negotiable staples in my skincare routine are – Bepanthen Derma Replenish lotion, Carmex lip balm, Elta MD sunblock, Agent Nateur holi oil and Micellar makeup remover by Embyosis. What product is your forever non-negotiable? My most non-negotiable product would surely be my Agent Nateur Holi face oil. What lifestyle habits that support your skin are non-negotiable? I may be saying the obvious here but less is more for me, so instead of 20 skincare steps that are hard to follow just incorporate the basic habits. Like hydrate your skin and body from within by drinking lot of water, always apply sun block during the day, use a good CFE serum for anti ageing and nourishment, I use Skinceuticals.
Tamara Jabi
HEAD OF PR & COMMUNICATION –SUNDAY RILEY MIDDLE EAST
What are the non-negotiable staples in your skincare routine? There are three products that are my absolute Holy Grail when it comes to my skincare routine. No doubt, all three are Sunday Riley products, because nothing has made my skin a 10/10 more than when using their range. The first has to be the award-winning Good Genes, a lactic acid treatment that deeply exfoliates and gives you that instant glow (I always get compliments on my skin whenever I use this product). Next is Sunday Riley’s Auto Correct eye cream. It is loved by so many and for good reason. The caffeine ingredient in this product is the real game changer here and makes my under eyes less puffy and bright. Lastly, I would have to give a special mention to my go-to retinol oil, Luna, for my evening routine. I love it because it’s balanced with natural botanical essential oils like blue tansy and chamomile so it’s gentle on my skin barrier and doesn’t feel harsh. Aside from the products themselves, the application method and order of how I apply my skincare products is also crucial. Sometimes learning what works for you can be a journey, it may take some time, but once you nail your routine, it’s the best feeling ever,
What product is your forever non-negotiable? This is a tough one to choose. But, I would have to say Sunday Riley Good Genes
All-in-One Lactic Acid Treatment. There’s just nothing like it. Desert island skincare product choice for sure!
What lifestyle habits that support your skin are non-negotiable? I am an avid believer of taking care of yourself from the inside out, meaning, if I’m ever facing any issues, whether that has to do with my skin, or my mental state in the form of stress and anxiety, the first thing
I do is look inwards. Firstly, I check to see how my diet is doing. If I’m not being healthy with my food at least 70% of the time, then I know my skin will suffer the consequences. So, once I rule that out, these are the three things I make sure I’m also doing to support healthy, glowing skin. The first being exercising as sometimes all I need is a good sweat session and suddenly I’ve got super clear skin (plus there’s nothing like that high endorphin release post-workout). However, I will note that I always make sure to wash my face with a gentle cleanser after a workout! This is a must. The second is hydrating – seems so simple, but so impactful. Drinking enough water is such an underestimated way for you to take care of yourself and your skin. I mean, our body is made up of about 60% of it, so it only seems natural to replenish it consistently (especially after those late-night outings at Honeycomb HiFi). The third is routine checkups on my gut health – more and more studies are coming out linking your gut health to other parts of your body, including your brain, and I truly believe this is not to be taken lightly. If your gut is healthy, likely your face and body will face less internal and external issues.
Salama Mohammed
FOUNDER – PEACEFULL
What are the non-negotiable staples in your skincare routine? The non-negotiable staples in any skincare routine start with the ultimate trio: a cleanser, a toner, and a moisturizer. I find these to be the basis and the foundations of the beginning of an effective skincare routine to restore and repair. And of course, one must never forget sunscreen, regardless of where you live!
What product is your forever non-negotiable? This is a difficult question to answer because not one skincare product is considered non-negotiable because each serves their own purpose and has a direct effect on your skin. However, we do often overlook the first and most vital step which is cleansing. Cleansing may not be the most talked about step in our routines anymore but it’s still the most important. Cleansing is crucial for removing dirt, debris, pollutants, and any grime. Without it, we won’t see the benefits of the other products and, can have a counter-effect. Plus, if you start your skincare routine with the right cleanser then you’re less likely to need those added extras to compensate for what the wrong cleanser does to your skin. What lifestyle habits that support your skin are non-negotiable? My lifestyle habits that are non-negotiable include, kicking off my skincare routine first thing in the morning – and yes, even before breakfast! As the morning progresses, we often think about our schedules for the day and skincare takes a backseat. It’s important to hydrate, hydrate, hydrate – Always start your day with water, whether it is with a squeeze of lemon juice or with a slice of ginger and I consider cleaning your makeup brushes technically an essential part of a skincare routine and it should be done at least twice a month. This will avoid the build-up of bacteria, which could easily result in acne and skin irritation.
Haneen Odeh
FOUNDER – SNOB SALON
What are the non-negotiable staples in your skincare routine? Moisturizer and cleanser for sure. As someone with dry skin, I really struggle without daily moisturizer, so I never go a day without it. Cleanser is an extremely important step, and even without makeup, pollution will clog up your pores and cause breakouts so don’t skip the cleanser! What product is your forever non-negotiable? This is a tough one! It’s really hard to narrow it down to one product but I’m going to say the Weleda Skin Food because it’s multi-purpose, so I can use it as a moisturizer for the face, and for cuticles, elbows, and any other dry areas. I also use it sometimes as a highlighter for a dewy look on my cheeks or to seal the ends of my hair if they look a bit dry and frizzy. I always keep one in my bag. What lifestyle habits that support your skin are non-negotiable? Never go to bed without cleansing your skin, don’t skip your sunscreen, and healthy fats are really good for you so make sure you eat a nutritious diet for better skin! A bad diet always shows up on your face.
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Margaret de Heinrich
CO-FOUNDER – OMOROVICZA
What are the non-negotiable staples in your skincare routine? My non-negotiables would be a combination of Omorovicza’s Gold Night Drops with a retinoid; there’s nothing better to reduce the depth and appearance of wrinkles. In addition to this, our Daily Vitamin C works to brighten the skin and is an amazing antioxidant. Our Ultramoor Mud Mask is a must have too; this mud-enriched mask detoxifies, while lifting and firming the skin as well. What product is your forever non-negotiable? I would say our Blue Diamond Concentrate is my forever non-negotiable. It contains the highest percentage of our patented and clinically proven Healing Concentrate™ which remineralizes the skin – reducing inflammation and increasing collagen. What lifestyle habits that support your skin are non-negotiable? A facial is non-negotiable. I have one at least once every three months, and then when seasons change, ideally once a month. The skin changes on a daily basis due to stress, travel, medication, climate etc and you need to adapt your skincare regime accordingly. There is nothing better than expert advice on your regime, especially after having seen your skin up close. I am also a big believer in the concept of biohacking – staying curious and using the latest information to make small changes to diet and lifestyle. This can be as simple as cutting out sugar in your coffee, but there’s no doubt that these small changes make a huge difference, which can subsequently be noticed on skin.
Hannah Stirling-Martin
COO – APOTHECA BEAUTY
What are the non-negotiable staples in your skincare routine? Over the last 10 years I have taken my skincare routine very seriously (having slept in makeup through my early twenties!) I double cleanse every night, starting with an oil or balm and then true cleanse with a foam – I’ve been using the Tatcha Camelia Cleansing Oil and Omorovicza Cleansing Foam recently. I use the Dr. Barbara Sturm Hyaluronic Serum morning and night and I also love a light, water based vitamin C; my current go-to is the Summer Fridays CC Me Serum. I get my retinal fix from the Omorovicza Midnight Renewal and then wear SPF every day – either the Glo Skin Beauty Oil Free SPF or the Lancer Sheer Fluid Sun Shield. What product is your forever non-negotiable? I love masks – I have one for every concern! The Radiance Awakening Mask from Lancer and Summer Friday’s Jet Lag Mask are my constants. What lifestyle habits that support your skin are non-negotiable? My mum turned 70 this year and looks incredible so I follow her advice. She credits a little sunlight, lots of water, green vegetables, a good night’s sleep and an expensive moisturiser.
Julie Lemke ESTHETICIAN
What are the non-negotiable staples in your skincare routine? Facial cleansing. A good gentle cleanser, that will cleanse the skin without disrupting the delicate and essential skin barrier. I am huge on facial misting, to balance the acid mantle and to increase the
hydration in your skin. This step must be done after cleansing and before application of serums, moisturizer etc. It is essential to have an antioxidant serum in the day paired with a really good non-comedogenic sunscreen to shield and protect your skin from free radical and photo damage. For PM hours – retinol and exfoliating acids – on alternating days, of course (and in moderation). Exfoliation is key to an increased skin hydration. I am also a huge fan of LED light as it is a noninvasive way to achieve glowing radiant skin. If you are breakout prone, this will be a real game changer fused with a healthy skin regimen! Last but not least – I also consider teeth flossing, as maintaining oral health is superior in terms of having a clear healthy skin, as the oral cavity is linked to the gut and our gut is linked to the skin. What product is your forever non-negotiable? Sunscreen. And which sunscreen is the best? The one that you will use and wear! I educate all of my clients on the importance of sunscreen. In general, we are so concerned about skin-ageing and correcting various skin concerns that can be directly traced to UV exposure, like discoloration/uneven skin tone, skin laxity and sunspots. But in reality, we forget to prevent and protect. Did you know that UV exposure is responsible for approximately 80% of all skin ageing? Long story short – sunscreen is an absolute must –and you will have to wear it every single day, 365 days per year, no matter where you live or where you work. As an extra layer of defense, I always recommend pairing your sunscreen with some kind of topical antioxidant protection, to shield and coat your skin during the day. The brand Heliocare has a broad variety of sunscreens, all of which offer a high-level of broad-spectrum protection against UVA, UVB, visible light – including blue light from digital devices.
What lifestyle habits that support your skin are non-negotiable? First of all, consistency is key! I do not follow Tik-Tok/Instagram skincare tends or other advice that is not tailored to your specific skin and current condition. It may be the best product/advice on the planet – but it may also not be suited to your skin’s needs and concerns. Managing stress levels and prioritizing sleep is the BEST thing you can do for your dewy glowing complexion. Then follows exercise, deep breathing techniques to oxygenate cells and get the lymph flowing, fused with regular body and facial massages that will help to promote an amazing healthy glow from within. Ingesting a diet which is rich in antioxidants, eliminating sugar and making sure to give body plenty of hydration and rest.
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WORDS:
CAMILLE MACAWILI
Smooth
Bulgari Resort –Dubai
THE HERO TREATMENT
The Ultimate Augustinus Bader
Facial With Sapphire 3 ® Ionix Light is a 120-minute unique and gentle exfoliating treatment that doesn’t rub the skin raw. It combines The Method Augustinus Bader – a bespoke skincare experience paired with next-generation synergistic skin rejuvenation technical device support and science-backed detoxification benefits resulting in an immediate fresh and healthy glow in just one session. bulgarihotels.com
The Spa, Mandarin Oriental – Abu Dhabi
THE HERO TREATMENT
The Terrain Treasures treatment begins with a ground-
ing ceremony featuring resonant singing bowls, embarking guests on a relaxing and rejuvenating path to mesmeric bliss. Created in celebration of the region’s vast desert and endless ocean, the sand journey will transport your senses to the dunes of the Rub Al Khali desert through sound, movement, textures and scents of oud with an invigorating massage on a warm bed of crushed quartz crystals. In the water journey, guests can feel the waves of the Arabian Gulf as you enjoy a rhythmic lomi-lomi-style massage on a waterbed, whilst being elevated to an otherworldly realm by chromotherapy lighting and oils infused with the active ingredients of the pearl to restore a natural state of equilibrium. mandarinoriental.com
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An edit of the best skincare destinations providing skin-transformative exfoliating treatments
The Spa, The Chedi – Oman
THE HERO TREATMENT
The DoNotAge Facial is a 90-minute anti-ageing treatment that includes double cleansing and triple exfoliation delivering smooth and refined skin. Together with the use of ginseng and aloe, the treatments pack a powerful punch of naturally soothing ingredients to rejuvenate and hydrate the surface skin cells whilst intelligent peptides reeducate skin cells deep down to induce collagen production. A lifting and toning massage using the LING exclusive energy lift machine takes this treatment up a notch to improve facial tone where infrared light and heat therapy is used to increase cellular function, stimulating the production of collagen and firm facial contours to reveal a soft and youthful-looking complexion. ghmhotels.com
Zulal Wellness Resort – Qatar THE HERO TREATMENT
The Jetpeel Clean & Hydrate is a 45-60 minute treatment that gently exfoliates, effectively unblocks, cleanses, and rehydrates your facial skin utilizing a pressurized stream of oxygen and saline. The treatment starts with a consultation and skin analysis then proceeds with the cleansing of skin using 111Skin’s holy grail products. This is followed by a thorough cleansing of the face to prepare for the infusion stage, where a dermatologist will then prepare a customised blend of serums to infuse using the Jetpeel spray, immediately boosting the skin’s radiance and texture. zulal.com
Skin Laundry –Dubai
THE HERO TREATMENT
This 45-minute Hydrafacial MD treatment boosts radiance through extractions, gently exfoliating away dead skin cells while minimizing dryness, ultimately delivering impressive and instant results. While lymphatic drainage detoxifies skin resulting in a purified and vas-
tly improved skin tone and the LED Blue & Red Light eliminates bacteria and free radicals. This all-encompassing treatment nourishes the skin with powerful antioxidants and skin-plumping peptides, resulting in a lit-from-the-inside glow. skinlaundry.ae
Mandarin Oriental –Dubai
THE HERO TREATMENT
The Triple Peel Facial is the ultimate skin pick-me-up. Ideal for congested skin battling the effects of heat and pollution, this 1 hour and 30 minute detoxifying treatment combined
with Ling New York Skincare products, sloughs away dead skin cells allowing the skin to breathe again while boosting hydration and softness, giving a vibrant complexion. mandarinoriental.com
Al Messila Resort & VIP Spa – Qatar
THE HERO TREATMENT
Results meet luxurious escape at the Al Messila Spa. The Radiance Facelift is a 60-minute customised radiance-restoring facial treatment designed to purify, hydrate and improve skin’s overall luminosity. It is then followed by a relaxing scalp massage. almessilaspa.com
Jimam Spa, Jareed Hotel – Riyadh
THE HERO TREATMENT
The VIP O2 Oxygenation by Biologique Recherche treatment is a 60-minute luxurious and balancing ritual featuring a powerful combination of micro-exfoliation, oxygenation and bio-energy masses to improve skin texture, ultimately restoring radiance. This treatment rich in hyaluronic acid is then followed by a head, neck and shoulder massage to increase oxygen flow to the area. jareedhotels.com
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IMAGES: SUPPLIED
Left page: Zulal Wellness Resort – Qatar; This page: (top) Jimam Spa, Jareed Hotel – Riyadh, (below) Bulgari Resort – Dubai
The Beauty Shelf
Claire Miller, facialist and founder of The Skincare Edit Arabia, talks us through her hero beauty products
COMPILED BY: IZZY TURNER
Lumino Brightening Serum
Dhs487 Zelens
Pigmentation is a year-round challenge for me in the UAE and I’ve tried and tested hundreds of brightening serums over the years. Zelens Lumino Brightening Serum is a game changer for both prevention and correction of pigmentation. Packed with intelligent active ingredients it is both a client and personal favourite.
Dermatologist Face Fluid SPF 50
Dhs51 Altruist
SPF is a daily essential for me.
Altruist is a ‘charity’ sun protection brand that has both my heart and my head. Incredible formulations at a price that cannot be beaten, the face fluid has a beautiful finish, sits great under makeup and with exceptional broad-spectrum coverage from both UVA and UVB harmful rays it’s a win-win.
Super Seed Serum Broccoli
Seed & Peptides Dhs348 Votary
I first discovered this serum when I was working with a VIP client who asked me if I could help find her something she could use for her highly re-active/sensitive skin at home. This serum has since been a staple to prescribe to clients to calm skins and balance routines that use a lot of actives
such as retinoids and exfoliating acids in combination.
Probiotic Shelf Stable Dhs147
JSHealth
The gut-skin axis is routed in more and more scientific studies, and I see connections from gut heath to skin inflamma-
tion through client stories every week. I love the JSHealth shelf stable formula for its wide ranging and varied colony of over 35+ billion units of good bacteria flora. The fact I don’t need to keep them in the fridge means I stay more consistent day to day and great for when I travel too.
Arborealist Hand and Body Wash
Dhs183 Verden
The most heavenly texture with 100% natural extracts of uplifting orange that elevates your senses and mood. I’m addicted to the hand and body wash and now nothing else compares.
Goddess Lip Stick in Spice
Dhs99 Eye of Horus
I love a stain lipstick that has staying power whilst also nourishing my ultra-dry lips. The
colour spice is my absolute favourite for a pick-me up and colour boost. With a sustainable approach to packaging and innovative formulations infused with natural oils and marine botanicals I’m not moving on from this modern take on lip sticks from Eye of Horus.
Microbiome P3 Balancing Mist
Dhs241 Zelens
If there is something I wish I understood sooner, it is the importance of hydration on the skin. It improves literally ‘everything’ and dehydration is one of the most common skin conditions I see here in the UAE affecting oily to dry skins. Mists are toners of the 21st century, Zelens P3 mist is an all-round super charged radiance giver.
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Framed or unframed prints available exclusively from The Arabian Gallery
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TO PM BEAUTY
Content Creator Atra Daniel talks us through her daily beauty routine
Talk us through your morning routine. I start my morning by washing my face and brushing my teeth, then I quickly change into some comfy sports clothes, take my electrical bike to my first stop ‘Feels’ which is my favourite spot for clean food, breakfast or lunch. I don’t like eating at home since I live alone, so I prefer grabbing breakfast or lunch outside. After I’ve had my protein smoothie or açai bowl, I continue my bike trip to the gym. It takes me around 30 minutes to get to the gym by bike so by the time I arrive, I've already done my warmup. What about your evening routine? After I’ve
taken a hot shower, I put on a hydrating mask or cream or oil, I’ve always been a big fan of La Mer products and the renewal oil from La Mer is what I use before going to sleep. I sometimes take some supplements like curcumin, flax seed oil, maca capsules, I really believe that beauty comes from within for sure. By the time I’ve taken my shower I put on my pyjama and crawl into bed. What are you favourite skin care products? La Mer oil, La Mer lotion toner and La Mer eye cream. I have normal to dry skin and the La Mer products have really helped with my skin. Which mask is your favourite and why?
I’m not a fan of masks but if I had to choose one then I would pick the ‘Origins Drink Up Intensive Overnight Mask’. It’s affordable and very hydrating. Your makeup will look flawless if you use this mask the night before. How would you describe your day-to-day makeup? My day-to-day makeup has always been very minimal, or at least I make it look minimal and natural. I love to add some concealer or foundation on any redness or dark spots to just correct a little bit. Recently I got myself the creamy bronzer from Chanel and I’m amazed by it. It literally blends into the skin perfectly and gives you a sun
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AM
Clockwise from top left:
Les Beiges Bronzing Cream Dhs215 Chanel; Drink Up Intensive Overnight Hydrating Mask 75ml Dh134 Origins; For Her Eau de Parfum 100ml for Dhs646 Narciso Rodriguez; The Eye Concentrate 15ml for Dhs930 La Mer; The Renewal Oil 30ml for Dhs980 La Mer; Bal d'Afrique Eau de Parfum 100ml for Dhs1,096 Byredo
kissed glow. Sometimes I add blush and a bit of mascara on the edge of my eyelashes. What beauty product can always be found in your makeup bag? A brownish lip pencil is 100 per cent the one product that can be found in my bag no matter, ever since I was 15. Also, a concealer and a blush.
Which fragrances are your go-tos? Obsessed with Byredo, the fragrances are too good to be true. Especially Bal D’Afrique, I always get compliments whenever I wear it. It suits me.
How do you choose your evening fragrance? It really depends on where I am
and the company I am with, but I love Narciso Rodriguez - For Her.
Talk us through your haircare routine?
My hair care routine is one of the most important routines at the moment. I’ve damaged my hair with all the styling and bleaching, so I take hair care very seriously now. I do different kinds of organic hair treatments, like avocado, coconut and flax seed oil. My hair scalp is dry, so I feel like my hair needs its natural oils, hence why I try to limit the number of times I wash it per week so that the natural oils go down to the rest of the hair, and once a month I do a proper scalp scrub.
What is your ultimate beauty indulgence?
I’ve had some skin issues before and have learned what works best for me like drinking plenty of water, working out, eating clean are some other basic things. I try to keep my skin looking healthy and fresh. As I mentioned before, I love to experiment with face treatments such as PRP, hydra facial, micro needling are other treatments that I find helpful in keeping my skin looking youthful. This is The Skin Issue – what does it mean to be comfortable in your own skin? Accepting who you are, whether it’s the things you like or dislike about yourself.
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IMAGES: SUPPLIED
WORDS: CAMILLE MACAWILI
Feed Your Skin
Body Fwrd Founder Kenzie
Burke
not only about food! Body Fwrd is the deep dive into the pillars of nutrition that contain the power to transform our lives entirely. What we use to fuel ourselves impacts us in every way – our physical bodies, emotional health, and spiritual balance. Your body is your home; the cleaner it is, the more space you have. Physically and mentally. I have been on a path of improvement my entire life but specifically dove into the power of nutrition, improving and evolving my ways of nourishment since 2018.
It hasn’t only been about food and the more I have committed to true transformation, doing the hard work, overcoming myself, and awakening on a spiritual level, the more I have deepened my practices around food and living in a cleansed body. I created my eating method based on realizing that we are meant to clean and clear out the body and live in a cleansed state. It is our birthright to feel abundant, clear, and healthy and create an environment that can thrive. Not one that is prone to illness and disease, and we should all be proud and love the body we live in. We have normalized being sick, eating rubbish, applauding, and hopping on and off different, trendy ways of eating. But I wholeheartedly believe that we are meant to live and embody a cleansed state. We are energetic beings; what you put into your body, the energy and people you have around you, the thoughts you think – these things live inside of us. I look at my body this way: you wouldn’t leave dishes in your sink for weeks, forget to vacuum your rug, or never do your laundry. You want your physical house to be ‘clean’; otherwise, it would affect your life. Your body is no different. Your visuals are stunning – do you create them yourself? I do! I have a photographer who has worked with me through all the seasons of my entrepreneurship journey – and it is cool to see how we have evolved throughout the years. But, as far as the images that are not of me – I take them! I love visuals, a vibe, and good branding. All my visuals for Body Fwrd are the easiest for me to create. Body Fwrd is my lifestyle. Every picture and moment is taken in real time as I am about to eat, move my body, do meditation, and the list goes on. My strongest sense of Human Design is ‘taste’. I think that plays a role in creating beautiful environments, visuals, food dishes, the way I dress… I am a natural-born tastemaker.
Tell us about the concept behind Body Fwrd. Body Fwrd brings forth practices around food and living in a cleansed body. Using the power of food to clear and cleanse the body to have the space to move forward, with clarity and light energy. I have committed to true transformation, doing the hard work, overcoming myself, and awakening on a spiritual level. I have created Body Fwrd to give the world tools and practices to unleash the core of who you are, transform yourself through nutritional healing, create a balanced mindset, and challenge you to be disciplined to make choices that will help you cultivate the life you truly want to live.
Body Fwrd is for those who want to live an elevated life and take the journey towards becoming the very best versions of themselves. It is the home for those who are here for true transformation. Here, we show up, do the hard work, and overcome ourselves daily. As a health and wellness expert and multifaceted entrepreneur, I am here to share the life-transforming nutritional information that has grown from decades of experience, knowledge, and understanding. And no… it’s
You previously built a business around food and wellness then left it. How did you come to a place where it felt right for you again? I built a business in food and wellness and then left it entirely. I resisted it. But I also resisted my own power and had (and am overcoming) an addiction to pain. I selfsabotaged and dimmed my own light quite a bit, and doing this to my old wellness business was a part of that pattern. What many people don’t know is that I went through a massive amount of pain and endured a very dark time after doing that to my business. I cut myself off from making money, I had an entire company that I had put my all into, an assistant, and a large following who supported me, and I left all of that. It was not fun. Not empowering, and it hurt.
This result stemmed from my childhood — dimming my own light, not letting myself receive goodness, love, and money without pain. But launching Body Fwrd has unblocked me in more ways than any words could express. Through Body Fwrd I am freeing myself from myself. I have felt this deep sense of frustration ever since I can
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discusses what kickstarted her passion in wellness, overcoming challenges, and the importance of nourishing within
remember. I have embarked on ten million career journeys, travel, and moved houses, cities, and states. Yet… I would still feel it. And it frustrated me because it does not and has not felt like mine anymore, and I know I can live without it. With Body Fwrd, instead of searching for the next thing and creating something new, I have turned inward and got to the root of where this is stemming from.
I have been suppressing myself, not letting myself fully step into my voice, knowledge, and potential. Anyone who has followed me for the last four years has seen the forward motion and journey I have been on of deep soul searching, career searching, etc. All along, there was a knock that would not stop. It just got louder and louder and the more I pushed it down, the more trapped I felt. The ‘body’ and nutritional healing aspect of my life is such a massive part of who I am and my life. I have reached the most embodied version of my body (through diet, cleansing, clearing the body, mind, and life choices). I know so much about the body and how to clear the vessel so we can move forward with clarity, self-love, and feeling embodied in our bodies. How did I know it was time to step back into the wellness
world? First, I had to stop resisting. I had to stop the nagging. It was jaw-locking me and my life, and I want to move forward each day, freely in my work and my life. How important is food and the way we eat it to our skin? I believe your internal reflects your external. Sure, you can use fancy creams, get facials, Botox, do all the things. However, nothing could compare to the sparkle in your eye from a healthy internal state. Food is a powerful tool we can use and harness to not only create how we feel but also how we look. Nourishing with hydrating fruits, colourful vegetables, good water and making that a daily priority will show on the external. I am such a ‘deep diver’, and as each year goes
by, I learn more. I do deeper cleanses. I expand my knowledge and transform my ways of eating and living. With each year that goes by, my skin has been reverse ageing. And I feel that the older I get, the better I look. This is a result of how I eat, my wellness practices, and my dedication to my spiritual practices – the internal shows on the external. Where do you get the motivation to be consistent and are there any practices which have helped you with this? I have always been striving and dedicated to growth, evolution, and transformation. I have been like this ever since I could remember. Some of this is my innate personality and the other part is that I have always known the kind of life I want to live, the results I want to experience, the kind of people I want as my friends, the places I want to live in, the entrepreneur I want to be, the kind of wife and mother I hope to be. I have had to create this life for myself. I was born and raised in a small town in Wisconsin. I am the pattern breaker in my family. So, I have had to be disciplined and motivated to grow and evolve from a young age.
If you want different results, you must have habits, routines, and rituals to help you create the life you want to live and embody the person you want to be. All the practices that I embody and that help me will be expressed through my sharings with Body Fwrd. I suggest you follow along because I have a lot to give!
What do you avoid in terms of lifestyle to ensure you have the most balanced skin? I avoid processed food including sugar, poor sleep patterns, and stress. I avoid anything that brings me down and does not feel energizing or good to my mind, soul, or life. Life ebbs and flows, but I try my best to remain balanced because I know that how you feel internally is what shows externally. If you had to pick three hero products for skin, what would they be? Agent Nateur, Barefaced, and Standard Self Care.
This is The Skin Issue – what does it mean to be comfortable in your own skin? It’s having a deep respect for yourself, which translates to self-love. The more work and effort I put into my evolution, the more comfortable I feel in my own skin. We all want to feel good not only in our skin but also in our day-today life. When you respect yourself and take the time and effort to nourish your body, move, sleep, meditate, expand your knowledge, work hard, apologize when you mess up, confront the hard conversations, and have compassion for the people around you, you build a strong foundation that deepens the relationship you have with yourself.
Being comfortable in my own skin is extremely important to me – I want to live my life as an embodied human being, and that is my ‘why’ each and every day.
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IMAGES: SUPPLIED
“Here, we show up, do the hard work, and overcome ourselves daily.”
WORDS: JOELLE ALBEAINO
CORE POWER
Founder of Sol Pilates, Rawia Khansaheb discusses building a wellness brand and harnessing your power
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Talk us through your career. I started my career working as a visual communicator within our family business, but as soon as I saw the opportunity to add Pilates within the lifestyle sector of the family company, I took over the project and launched Sol Pilates in 2017. What inspired you to launch Sol Pilates? I had been practising Mat Pilates for years prior to starting Sol and I had reached a stage where I had a desire to work on machines and improve my Pilates practise. As I was looking for studios, I realised that we didn’t have a Pilates studio in our area and having to drive a few miles to get to my Pilates class was demotivating me. After speaking to my family and friends, I found out that they were facing the same issue and when the opportunity came up, we launched Sol Pilates Studio. What is at the core of Sol Pilates and the DNA of the brand? Our DNA is Pilates in all its forms. Our core is making clients aware of the importance of the balance between strength and flexibility, as well as good posture. What is the hero exercise at Sol Pilates? Primarily, clients come to the studio to join our reformer classes. However, the Teaser exercise is the signature exercise that often appeals to our clients, plus it is very Instagram-able. You recently introduced facial yoga. What are its key benefits? We recently hosted the first round of workshops in our studio, with Karin from Glowinface. In Sol, we believe that no
muscles should be left unworked and that includes the much-ignored head, neck and face muscles. Face yoga has many benefits including reducing wrinkles, improving blood circulation, releasing tension and boosting energy. How important is facial yoga in reducing signs of ageing? In the long run, practising face yoga and working your face muscles will not only reduce the appearance of wrinkles and sagging skin, but it will also prevent the formation of new wrinkles. It helps lift for the whole face, plump the lips and cheeks, reduce the double chin and wrinkles on the forehead as well as between the eyebrows. The sooner you start practising facial yoga the better, but of course it is never too late.
How often do you practise Pilates and facial yoga? I practise Pilates three times a week and I enjoy attending both group and private classes. I have incorporated face exercises within my skin care routine. I use my guasha twice a week and face yoga three times a week, allow two days of rest.
How is the Pilates culture growing in the Middle East? In the past six years we’ve seen a gradual growth and we have recently seen a demand for Pilates. What is very important is that we have noticed how clients are more educated about what to expect from a Pilates class and that they are able to recognize the benefits that Pilates has added to their personal workout regimen.
This is The Skin Issue – what does it mean to be comfortable in your own skin? For me it means to be yourself – the best version of yourself and know that everyone goes through ups and downs, even if they don’t show it, so don’t let your downs get the best of you.
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IMAGES:
“Our core is making clients aware of the importance of the balance between strength and flexibility, as well as good posture.”
GETTY IMAGES AND SUPPLIED
Skincare Transformations
Dubai’s Cosmo Medical Center’s Head Plastic Surgeon, Medical Director and Partner, Dr Carmelo
Crisafulli shares everything to know about his dynamic approach to plastic surgery
What do the first 30 minutes of your day look like, your morning routine? Each morning, I take my daughter from her cot at around 6am and we enjoy some time together with my wife. Later, we then have breakfast before I head off to work.
What should a consultation patient expect during their first session prior to the surgery? The first consultation is the most important step before a surgery. I try to be always as clear as possible by explaining all the pros and cons of a surgery to my patients and by suggesting the best solution for each case.
Is there an optimal age for a plastic/ cosmetic surgery procedure? How old is too old? Apart from a few exceptions, for example prominent ears, we shouldn’t treat patients under eighteen years of age. There is never too old, but I always take into consideration priorities and reality, for example the patient must be in a healthy status and shouldn’t aim for eternal youth.
What are the most common misconceptions about going under the knife or getting filler and anti-wrinkle injections? The most common misconception about going under the knife is often anaesthesia, as sometimes patients are concerned about this whilst most of the time it’s a relatively pain free journey. Regarding getting filler or botox, some of the time, patients think that this can be a substitute for surgery, in most cases this is not the case. How has the world of social media influenced plastic surgery as a whole? The world of social media has completely changed the plastic surgery world. There are often many expectations due to digital
filters which don’t reflect reality. It’s the job of the surgeon and his/ her skill to show a patient what the reality is or could be and most importantly act responsibly when doing so.
Reconstructive plastic surgery can change people’s lives in terms of confidence. Can you share your experience of this? Giving the opportunity to a child to smile doesn’t have a price and it’s incredibly satisfying to really make a difference to someone’s life. Reconstructive procedures help people to re-establish the physiological status of their body. We are talking about congenital deformities, accidents, mutilations, burns, cancers and much more. But the best thing is that reconstructive surgery finds a place in all surgical specialties, allowing the surgeon to cooperate with other specialists and always learning something new… at least it should be like that!
What are the main precautions to focus on after a surgery? The precautions change surgery by surgery but the most important thing is to follow the surgeon’s direction and refer to him/her for anything that happens after the surgery.
What is the recovery timeline for a standard procedure? The recovery time for a standard procedure is normally between 7 to 10 days, depending on the surgery.
Are there any beauty trends in the Middle East that differ from the rest of the world? Body contouring is one the most common trends in the Middle East. Patients in general want to achieve the perfect shape when focusing on the breasts and hips. This is often a combination of liposuction, hi-definition liposuction and mommy makeovers.
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IMAGE: GETTY IMAGES
WORDS: SARAH JOSEPH
“It’s the job of the surgeon and his/her skill to show a patient what the reality is or could be and most importantly act responsibly when doing so.”
WORDS & STYLING: AMY SESSIONS
The Wanderlust
Amanyara – Providenciales, Turks and Caicos
Basking on the secluded shores of an 18,000acre nature reserve, Amanyara’s lush tropical pavilions and villas overlook half a mile of white sand beaches and the turquoise waters of Providenciales’ North West Point Marine National Park. A retreat for all ages, the resort offers restorative wellness retreats and endless possibilities for discovery above and below the waves.
THE STAY
You are spoilt for choice here as Amanyara’s Villas offer consummate privacy and space simultaneously, all set in natural surroundings. Generously proportioned living areas and two to six bedrooms are set around a black infinity pool and hardwood deck. Overlooking reflective ponds and gardens, several feature ocean views while others offer direct beach access. All are serviced by villa hosts who are on hand to make your 6am Matcha while you watch the sunrise.
THE DINING
The restaurants are outstanding, with fresh produce and local flavours taking center stage. Make sure you try the local Conch –the Caribbean flavours really come through in the Conch ceviche served with plantain chips — a lunch you won’t forget that provides the perfect midday beach break. If you’re staying in a Villa a home-cooked lunch or dinner from your Chef is a must. They have many talents but light, Asian cuisine is a specialty and is perfect for the warm climate.
THE WELLNESS
There is a wide breadth of wellness options here – a massage is essential to ensure you
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Amanyara is a new flavour of paradise worth making the trip for
really unwind. Aman Spa’s experienced therapists combine global wellness practices with the traditional healing practices of the islands and natural ingredients sourced from the surroundings and the Caribbean Sea. Various island massage techniques are used in synergy with Provos organic cold-pressed virgin coconut oil, known for its healing and anti-ageing properties. Meditation practices as well as an individually tailored Wellness Immersion is possible, allowing you to embark on a transformative wellbeing journey over the course of three days.
THE HERO EXPERIENCE
A beachside, torchlit dinner is the perfect way to round off a very special trip. Not just for a couple it’s perfect for big parties and groups all wishing to celebrate this magical location in all its glory. One thing is for sure – this is a place you return to.
WHAT TO PACK
From top: Sligo stretch-satin bralette Dhs660 GAUGE81; Velvet-trimmed satin-twill pants Dhs3,540 Tom Ford; Solids leather flip flops Dhs232 TKEES available at NET-A-PORTER; Diamond Frame Clutch Latte Soft Calf Leather Clutch Bag with Chain Strap Dhs10,650 Jimmy Choo
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Tagomago
Delivering truly exceptional dishes and laid-back Balearic vibes
WORDS & STYLING: AMY SESSIONS
Tagomago is an echo of the White Isle. A restaurant, bar and beach experience like no other in the region, capturing the feel, flavours and bohemian energy of the Balearics. Nestled at the foot of The Palm, built into the archipelago and winding around a private beach, the sea views shimmer and inspire. Like its namesake — a rugged island off the coast of Ibiza — Tagomago calls to a set of well travelled, cultured creative minds, foodies and free spirits. The guests come to
capture sun-drenched memories and create, afresh, dazzling days and incandescent nights under the stars. The ideal location for friends and families.
THE HERO DISHES
∙ Pan con tomate, toasted bread, grated tomato, garlic
∙ Padrón peppers
∙ Garlic prawns
∙ Spicy beef chorizo croquetas
∙ Piquillo peppers stuffed with lobster & mushroom
∙ Spicy chocolate mousse
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SUPPLIED
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From top: Rectangular acetate sunglasses Dhs2,928 Jacques Marie Mage; Ayikal leather-trimmed cottongauze midi dress Dhs1,231 Caravana; Ofis leather sandals Dhs795 Ancient Greek Sandals; Jute basket bag Dhs166 Mango
Personal Space
In the office with designer Kristina
Fidelskaya
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PHOTOGRAPHY: AHMED ABDELWAHAB WORDS: CAMILLE MACAWILI
How long have you been in this space? We have been in this office since d3 Dubai Design District opened seven years ago. As it was a project of a new area combining fashion and design, we knew we would be surrounded by creativity and inspiring people. Have you custom-built any bespoke pieces? We created our office and showroom from scratch, working closely with interior designers in order to infuse our brand DNA and to bring my vision to life from the concrete walls to the installation made of glossy steel to display our new collections. For the furniture, I like to play with the home lines from other fashion houses.
How do you think the interior buys reflect you and your brand?
I wanted a space that matches the vibe of my own house as well as our store in Dubai. Soft, peaceful, clean, and cosy, spending time here should feel like home to be comfortable and leave room for creativity. Most of our interior buys being customized and made-to-measure goes along with the DNA and values of our atelier and brand. Describe your taste in three words. Elegant, pure, and peaceful.
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THE DIRECTORY
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114 emirateswoman.com MOST WANTED Alaïa’s Aviator sunglasses deliver 360 degree shade for SS23 FULL SHADE
AMY SESSIONS Aviator Sunglasses Dhs2,733 Alaïa
WORDS:
DESIGN REGISTRATION PENDING NEW YORK I LONDON I DUBAI I MUMBAI I HONG KONG AuFinja is available at all leading jewellers and Dubai Duty Free. Featured here is the AUSUM collection, design # 541 (available in 18k & 22k)
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