London
M AY 2 0 17 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM
®
RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE
PLUS
Museums at Night Carnaby Street Supper clubs
Visit the Pink Floyd exhibition that hits all the right notes
Free inside
GARDEN CITY
Where to enjoy alfresco food, drink and theatre
A guide
RAISE A GLASS
Drink your way around our greatest gin bars
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THEATRE IN BRITAIN ENTERTAINMENT
SHOPPING
DINING
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Contents See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london
May
London
M AY 2 0 17 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM
®
RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE
PLUS
Museums at Night Carnaby Street Supper clubs
ON THE COVER Visit the Pink Floyd exhibition that hits all the right notes
Free inside
GARDEN CITY
Where to enjoy alfresco food, drink and theatre
A guide
CULTURE
to
THEATRE IN BRITAIN
RAISE A GLASS
Drink your way around our greatest gin bars
ENTERTAINMENT
SHOPPING
WL MAY 2017 COVER.indd 1
DINING
MAPS 13/04/2017 10:04
Visit the Victoria and Albert Museum’s new exhibition about Pink Floyd. Cover image © Pink Floyd Music Ltd
The Guide
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22 SIGHTSEEING The Tower of London and Hampton Court Palace are marking a milestone in gay rights. 36 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Museums at Night gives you the chance to see iconic venues, from The National Gallery to the Horniman Museum, in a different light.
54 SHOPPING Carnaby Street is swinging once more, thanks to Carnaby Style Night, which stays open late for drinks, discounts and DJs. 62 DINING Join in the latest food craze: supper clubs. Dine in extraordinary places, including a disused Tube carriage and at an art gallery.
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62
36
Best of the month 6 WHERE NOW
16 THE GREAT OUTDOORS
The FA Cup Final, Photo London and the Alchemy festival – here are the big events this month.
Where to enjoy alfresco food, drink and theatre across the capital.
10 PINK FLOYD
20 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE
Visit the Victoria and Albert Museum’s exhibition dedicated to the British band to see everything from album covers to stage props.
14 MUSIC MAP Walk in the footsteps of musical icons.
CHINESE EDITION | SPRING 2017
PLAN
2016-2017
PLAN DE
LONDRES ÉDITION E FRANÇAIS
Floral-inspired gifts, including watches and bags, to celebrate spring.
20
82 MY LONDON Sam Bompas, co-founder of Bompas & Parr, shares his hotspots.
TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D ’ S V I S I T O R S
LONDON
伦敦 | 中文版 IN LONDON CHINESE EDITION | 中文版 | SPRING 2017
JOANNA LUMLEY © RHS/HANNAH MCKAY; GIN BAR COURTESY OF HOLBORN DINING ROOM; CANALETTO’S VENICE: THE BACINO DI S. MARCO ON ASCENSION DAY © ROYAL COLLECTION/HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2016; FISH DISH © JEAN CAZALS; WATCH COURTESY OF FOLLI FOLLIE
44 ENTERTAINMENT Star Wars actor John Boyega takes on a play about the Cold War at The Old Vic theatre.
奢华 之都 伦敦春季
奢侈品 | 时尚 | 美容 | 餐饮 | 文化 | 地图
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In this city, we also produce IN London – a portfolio of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English – and London Planner, the official monthly guide to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayor’s promotional company, London & Partners.
72 NIGHTLIFE Drink your way around London’s greatest gin bars, from the Holborn Dining Room’s Gin Bar to The Distillery. 76 WELLBEING Put your best foot forward! If you have been on your feet all day, it’s time to give your toes some TLC. We show you where you can enjoy relaxing foot massages. 78 ESSENTIALS Jolanta Kowalska, concierge at the Sheraton Grand London Park Lane, shares her tips on how to make the most of your trip.
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80 MAPS A useful map of central London. w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 3
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Where London 2-3pg 3-4-17_Layout 1 02/04/2017 16:04 Page 1 IN OVER 80 CITIES: INFLUENCING AND INSPIRING VISITORS SINCE 1936
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Vol. No. 43 Issue No. 5 ISSN 0951 323X YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®
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WELCOME
Editor’s Letter
Thank you for the music David Bowie, Adele and Pink Floyd are just some of the biggest names in music that found their fame in London. This month we dedicate our cover to Pink Floyd, one of the greatest bands in the world. As The Pink Floyd Exhibition: Their Mortal Remains opens at the Victoria and Albert Museum, we delve through their iconic album cover art, stage props and concert posters (p. 10). London is in full bloom! If you haven’t been able to get tickets for the Chelsea Flower Show, don’t worry. There are plenty of other ways to enjoy the great outdoors (p. 16). One of my favourite things to do when the weather warms up is to watch a show at Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre. The glorious surroundings, with birds singing and the sun setting, creates a magical experience – just remember to bring a blanket! London is anything but ordinary. While we may be one of the world’s food capitals – in fact, we have more Michelin-starred chefs than anywhere else on the planet – why not enjoy a taste of something different? Eat your way around supper clubs, which can even be found inside a disused Tube carriage (p. 62). Finally, Museums at Night (p. 36) lets you enjoy sights in a new light with after-hours fun, including secret bars and candlelit tours. Have a fantastic trip!
KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: Where London
ANIMALS © PINK FLOYD MUSIC LTD
Pink Floyd’s Animals album cover
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THE CITY, SOUNDBOARD OF THE CITIZENS BY DÀLIA ADILLON; FOODIES FESTIVAL COURTESY
®
SOUNDS OF THE CITY AT THE LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM FROM FRIDAY 19 MAY
London is a city full of different sounds: pigeons flying, buses revving and languages from all over the world. But what would it look like as an illustration? And how would it compare to other UK cities? You can find out at Sounds of the City at the London Transport Museum, an exhibition of the 100 best entries for The Prize for Illustration 2017. Discover how different artists have interpreted sound and sight in cities. www.ltmuseum.co.uk
An illustration exhibition that redraws the city, a magical night with Harry Potter and the nation’s favourite sport – here are the must-see events in May
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FA CUP FINAL SATURDAY 27 MAY
Whether it features last year’s winners Manchester United or a dark horse, the Emirates FA Cup Final (27 May) is guaranteed to be an electric event. In addition to the 90,000 people watching at Wembley Stadium, it’s also beamed live on TVs across the globe – after all, this is famed as the world’s longestrunning football competition. If you can’t get tickets, take a tour of Wembley Stadium instead; you can go inside the players’ changing rooms, the players’ tunnel and on to the hallowed turf. www.wembleystadium.com
SYON PARK FOODIES FESTIVAL
THE CITY, SOUNDBOARD OF THE CITIZENS BY DÀLIA ADILLON; FOODIES FESTIVAL COURTESY OF FOODIES FESTIVAL; FOOTBALL © ISTOCK; HARRY POTTER © WARNER BROS 2001
SATURDAY 27-MONDAY 29 MAY
Food, glorious food! Syon Park, which is about an hour away from central London, is the Duke of Northumberland’s London home, state and private apartments set in 40 acres of beautiful gardens. This month the venue is home to a star-studded three-day Foodies Festival. Now in its 12th year, this tasty event boasts Michelin-starred chefs, cookery demonstrations and workshops, live music and street-food stalls galore. Try signature dishes from a selection of leading restaurants and cuisines from around the world. Past masterclasses have included sugarcraft, spice skills and pairing food with drinks. www.syonpark.co.uk; www.foodiesfestival.com
HARRY POTTER THURSDAY 11-SUNDAY 14 MAY
As this year marks the 20th anniversary since the first Harry Potter book was published, fans of the wizard will want to catch Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone at the iconic Royal Albert Hall. For a breathtaking experience, watch as the film is shown in high-definition on a 40ft screen while John Williams’ Oscar-nominated score is played live on stage by the Royal Philharmonic Concert Orchestra and chorus, conducted by Justin Freer. www.royalalberthall.com
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ALCHEMY FESTIVAL FRIDAY 19-MONDAY 29 MAY
Now in its eighth year, Alchemy at the Southbank Centre is the largest festival of South Asian culture outside the subcontinent. Expect a programme packed with dance, music, theatre, visual art, comedy and literature from British and international artists. www.southbankcentre.co.uk
PHOTO LONDON THURSDAY 18-SUNDAY 21 MAY
Photo London, the capital’s annual photography fair now in its third year, returns to the stunning riverside cultural centre Somerset House. See work by trailblazers from the world of photography, such as Anton Corbijn and Patrick Demarchelier, and Herb Ritts’ images of top models, from Cindy Crawford to Christy Turlington (right). It’s the perfect place to browse galleries from all corners of the globe, including Berlin, New York, Madrid, Dubai, Los Angeles, Rome and Sydney. During the event there are special talks: Queen guitarist Brian May discusses his passion for stereoscopy (17 May), and German photographer Juergen Teller chats about his work (19 May). www.photolondon.org
CANALWAY CAVALCADE TO MONDAY 1 MAY
Canalway Cavalcade, in Little Venice, is a free festival on the Grand Union Canal. A 10-minute walk from Paddington station, the event is a colourful pageant of boats decorated with bunting and fairy lights. Watch Morris dancing, sample street food, enjoy puppet shows and see plate spinners. www.waterways.org.uk
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HOT DATES
MAY CS the
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31
Float away at the Canalway Cavalcade festival in beautiful Little Venice (p. 30) Nell Gwynn begins today at the iconic Shakespeare’s Globe (p. 50) Ed Sheeran rocks The O2 arena in Greenwich tonight (p. 52) Calling all shoppers! Carnaby Style Night offers discounts for one evening (p. 54) London Craft Week takes place with events from talks to pop-up shops (p. 54) Music for your ears – listen to Varèse’s scores at the Barbican tonight (p. 52)
The Radical Eye: Modernist Photography ends at Tate Modern (p. 43) A head for heights? Visit The Shard, the tallest building in Western Europe (p. 30)
Northern Ballet , which begins at Sadler’s Wells, tells the story of Casanova (p. 52) Immerse yourself in Egyptian Extravaganza at the Colab Factory (p. 46)
Harry Potter is screened with a live orchestra at the Royal Albert Hall (p. 7) Visit the Tower of London, which is home to hundreds of years of history (p. 29) The Victoria and Albert Museum brings together Pink Floyd memorabilia (p. 10) Raise a glass at Prosecco Springs, a festival dedicated to the drink, at Oval Space The film musical Footloose is brought to life at Richmond Theatre (p. 46) All that jazz! Monty Alexander plays at Ronnie Scott’s in Soho tonight (p. 53) Listen to legendary Queen guitarist Brian May deliver a talk at Photo London As part of Museums at Night, Fulham Palace is hosting a night of folk music (p. 26) Alchemy festival, which celebrates South Asian music and culture, opens (p. 52) Cabbages & Frocks Market hosts a dog festival with canine food and fashion Shop till you drop! The Urban Village Fete takes place in Greenwich today (p. 55) Admire Canaletto’s work at The Queen’s Gallery, Buckingham Palace (p. 42) It’s a hard-knock life. Annie opens with comedian Miranda Hart (p. 46)
California, which looks at Silicon Valley tech, begins at the Design Museum (p. 37) Be wowed by Hokusai: Beyond the Great Wave at The British Museum (p. 37) Anna Sui’s work is on display at the Fashion and Textile Museum (p. 38) Eat your way around the Foodies Festival at Syon Park (p. 7) It’s all kicking off ! Watch a football match at Wembley Stadium (p. 7) Tate Britain’s retrospective of David Hockney ends today (p. 43) Roll up! Watch the circus extravaganza La Strada at The Other Palace theatre (p. 46) Travel back in time with music from the 1920s at Cadogan Hall (p. 52)
ABIDA PARVEEN COURTESY OF ALCHEMY FESTIVAL; CHRISTY IN WHITE, LOS ANGELES, 1988 © HERB RITTS & HAMILTONS; CANAL CAVALCADE © IWA
WHERE NOW | CALENDAR
For more ideas visit www.wheretraveler.com
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WHERE NOW | PINK FLOYD
As Pink Floyd unleash their multi-sensory exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum, Sam Rogg explores the kaleidoscopic past of one of the world’s greatest bands legendary live shows, it’s a multi-sensory spectacle that is sure to blow your mind. Devised in collaboration with the remaining members of the band and featuring more than 350 objects and artefacts including instruments, handwritten lyrics, posters, a laser light show and unseen concert footage, this immersive and theatrical exhibition celebrates all that made Pink Floyd unique. Not yet a fan? Take a trip to The Dark Side of the Moon – their extraordinary 1973 album exploring the human condition. As one of the best-selling records of all time, it’s thought that one in 12 people owns a copy. Not bad for a group of boys from Cambridge, whose sound was originally dismissed by some as ‘not even music’.
PINK FLOYD AND ALBUM COVERS © PINK FLOYD MUSIC LTD; ABBEY ROAD STUDIOS © JAN KLOS
P
ink Floyd do not know what people mean by psychedelic pop, and are not trying to cause hallucinatory effects on their audience,’ announced their record company in 1967 as London’s radio stations raced to ban their debut single. In fact, it was just the kind of publicity that most bands of the Sixties could only dream of and, within a year, the little-known English rock group were on course to becoming one of the greatest bands of all time. Fifty years and more than 250 million record sales later, they’re back in the headlines – this time for their first major retrospective, The Pink Floyd Exhibition: Their Mortal Remains at the Victoria and Albert Museum. And just like their 10 W H E R E LO N D O N I M AY 2017
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PINK FLOYD AND ALBUM COVERS © PINK FLOYD MUSIC LTD; ABBEY ROAD STUDIOS © JAN KLOS
Clockwise from main image: Pink Floyd in 1971; Abbey Road Studios; The Dark Side of the Moon and Atom Heart Mother albums
They initially wanted to become architects Most people know Regent Street as a shopper’s paradise, but since the 1830s it’s also been a place of academia and home to the first polytechnic institution in the UK (now the University of Westminster). It was here that in 1963 Pink Floyd’s founding members – Roger Waters, Nick Mason and Richard Wright – met while studying architecture. Together they formed a group called Sigma 6 and performed at private functions and in a tearoom underneath their classrooms. ‘I could have been an architect, but I don’t think I’d have been very happy,’ said bassist Waters. ‘Nearly all modern architecture is a silly game as far as I can see.’
If you’re curious to see their first flat, visit 39 Stanhope Gardens in Highgate. ‘[The flat] made a real difference to our musical activities,’ Mason wrote in his autobiography. ‘We had our own permanent rehearsal facility, thanks to an indulgent landlord.’
Die-hard fans might even be tempted to stay there while in London, which you can do for about £2,000 a week – although we should warn you that now it’s a six-bedroom rented property, the interiors are a little less rock ‘n’ roll than they used to be. www.wheretraveler.com 11
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WHERE NOW | PINK FLOYD They only had one hit single ‘We don’t do singles,’ Waters is alleged to have told his producer Bob Ezrin in 1979 when asked to extend the song Another Brick in the Wall past its original run time of one minute and 20 seconds. Like everything they wrote, the song was always meant to be part of a bigger whole, in this case The Wall, a soaring rock opera released as a double record and now widely thought to be one of the best albums of all time. But Ezrin, convinced of the song’s potential, went behind Waters’ back, adding a disco beat, doubling the instrumentals and recruiting a local school choir to sing a verse and chorus. ‘I called Roger into the room,’ Ezrin told Guitar World in 2009, ‘and when the kids came in on the second verse there was a total softening of his face, and you just knew that he knew it was going to be an important record.’ ‘Important’ is putting it mildly when you consider the impact their only hit single has had on the world. On its release, it topped the charts in the UK, US, Germany, Canada, Norway, Portugal, New Zealand, Sweden, Israel and Belgium. It was banned in South Africa after black schoolchildren took to chanting the lyrics to condemn the educational apartheid. Even today, it continues to resonate with people of all ages. ‘The song is meant to be a rebellion against errant government, against people who have power over you, who are wrong,’ explains Waters. Half a century may have passed since Pink Floyd blazed their way into popular culture, but they continue to shine on, like the crazy diamonds that they are.
FOR OVER FIVE DECADES HAVE BEEN PIONEERS IN UNITING SOUND AND VISION
Most of the band preferred beer to LSD Given their fondness for psychedelic lights, philosophical lyrics and lengthy instrumentals, it’s only natural that most people assumed Pink Floyd were all addicted to acid. But in reality, it was just their first lead singer, Syd Barrett, who took LSD regularly – so regularly, in fact, that within a year of their debut album release, he was on the verge of a psychotic breakdown and forced to leave the band. ‘He was our friend, but most of the time we wanted to strangle him,’ Waters admitted years later. With Barrett out by 1968, and David Gilmour in, Pink Floyd began their world domination – but they never forgot their London links. Over the past five decades the capital has been both home and muse to the group. 12 W H E R E LO N D O N I M AY 2017
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Their concerts were always a multimedia spectacle When Iron Maiden, Ariana Grande and KISS take to the stage at London’s O2 arena this month, it’s safe to assume there will be light shows and video projections as part of their performances. But long before it became the standard for concerts, Pink Floyd pioneered the use of visuals in their live shows. As early as 1966, they projected psychedelic lights on to a backdrop while they played, and even appeared on British television to show off their lighting skills while improvising music. As their popularity (and budgets) grew, so did their audio-visual ambitions. Before long, giant inflatables, 35mm films, lavish pyrotechnics and ‘intelligent’ lights were part of the fabric of Pink Floyd shows, leading to a spate of venue bans. One of their most famous concerts at Earls Court saw a 40ft wall placed between them and the audience. They were also the first to champion live surround sound, with the help of the Azimuth Co-ordinator quadrophonic sound system – on display as part of the V&A’s exhibition. ‘Alongside creating extraordinary music, they have for over five decades been pioneers in uniting sound and vision,’ says former V&A director Martin Roth, ‘from their earliest 1960s performances with experimental light shows, through their spectacular stadium rock shows, to their consistently iconic album covers.’ The Pink Floyd Exhibition: Their Mortal Remains. From 13 May. V&A, Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. www.vam.ac.uk
Clockwise from top left: David Gilmour; light projector used in the band’s concerts; Pink Floyd in 1971; The Wall and The Division Bell album covers; Pink Floyd for The Division Bell; the launch of the V&A exhibition; Animals and Wish You Were Here album covers; rotating mirrorball with petals
See a map of London’s must-see music locations, available from
www.londonmusicmap.com or at We Built This City, 56 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF
DAVID GILMOUR © JILL FURMANOVSKY; PROJECTOR © RUPERT TRUMAN; PINK FLOYD IN 1971 © STORM THORGERSON; ALL ALBUM COVERS © PINK FLOYD MUSIC LTD; PINK FLOYD FOR THE DIVISION BELL © ALBERT WATSON AND PINK FLOYD ARCHIVE; V&A LAUNCH © MISHKO PAPIC; ROTATING MIRRORBALL © PAULA WEBB STAINTON/PHOTOGRAPHER: RUPERT TRUMAN
Relive some of the band’s most iconic moments at locations across the city, including Battersea Power Station (as seen on the album cover for Animals); Alexandra Palace (used for The 14 Hour Technicolor Dream concert); Abbey Road Studios (where the band recorded at the same time as The Beatles); Islington Green (where a group of local schoolchildren sang on Another Brick in the Wall); and David Gilmour’s houseboat recording studio Astoria (it was first built in 1911 for theatre producer Fred Karno, who wanted the deck to accommodate a 90-piece orchestra).
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WHERE NOW | OUTDOORS
Main image: Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre Right: Battersea Arts Centre
As the Chelsea Flower Show returns this spring, Sarah Riches finds that London comes alive in the sunshine with live music, outdoor opera and canalside restaurants
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Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre launches its 2017 season with the dance musical On the Town (from 19 May), directed and choreographed by Drew McOnie. Later in the summer you can also watch two plays inspired by Charles Dickens: A Tale of Two Cities by Matthew Dunster, and Oliver Twist, adapted by Anya Reiss. The season wraps up with Jesus Christ Superstar, which was a hit last year. You can also watch theatre under the stars at Shakespeare’s Globe – a careful reconstruction of the original Globe Theatre, which staged William Shakespeare’s plays. This month catch Romeo and Juliet, which is directed by the English National Opera’s artistic director Daniel Kramer, and the comedies Nell Gwynn (2-13 May) and Twelfth Night
(from 18 May). If you want to embrace the outdoors, choose standing tickets, which offer the closest view of the stage and cost just £5. Later in the year, there are also live performances in Battersea Arts Centre’s
red-brick open-air courtyard; free shows in The Scoop, an alfresco amphitheatre situated on the South Bank near Tower Bridge; and outdoor opera at Opera Holland Park. Opera shows include Don Giovanni (from 3 Jun).
This image: The Morgan Stanley Healthy Cities Garden Below: actress Joanna Lumley at the Chelsea Flower Show
Taking everything from the Bermuda Triangle to a ruined abbey for inspiration, this year’s Chelsea Flower Show at the Royal Hospital Chelsea (23-27 May) is set to wow once more. Since 1862, the Royal Horticultural Society’s annual garden design show has celebrated the arrival of spring with gardens bursting with blooms – and every year seems to top the last. This season there are nine show gardens, including show veteran Ishihara Kazuyuki’s oasis. Inspired by the Kyoto Imperial Palace, it features a Japanese pond surrounded by pines and maples. Another highlight is a Yorkshire garden with cliffs, a beach and ‘sea’ lapping against abbey ruins.
There are also five fresh gardens, one of which is Mexican-themed – expect droughttolerant plants set against orange and hot-pink walls. Meanwhile, the Bermuda Triangle has a palm tree, tropical plants and volcanic landscapes inside a pyramid. It is designed by one of the show’s youngest exhibitors, award-winning 23-year-old Jack Dunckley. As well as the gardens, the show boasts a packed programme of talks, botanical-themed crafts, restaurants serving edible blooms, and experts
who are on hand to provide advice for your own garden. With celebrities and royals flocking to the show, tickets to this prestigious event sell out fast. If you are not successful, don’t worry as London has plenty of other green places to explore – in fact, almost 40 per cent of the city is made up of parks and open spaces, making it one of the greenest cities in the world. And we are only getting greener, as there are plans to open a garden bridge across the river. Until then, it’s time to see the city in full bloom. www.wheretraveler.com 17
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In honour of Chelsea Flower Week, City Cruises has teamed up with the entertainment company All I Want VIP and florist Amie Bone Flowers to launch The Floating Gardens of Westminster, a boat brimming with flowers; it even has a lawn and a three-tier water feature. Hop aboard for a 90-minute cruise with unlimited bubbly, canapés and a DJ (25, 26 & 27 May). Visit Holland Park’s beautiful Kyoto Garden – the hidden Japanese garden is filled with stone lanterns, waterfalls and roaming peacocks. Love it or hate it, 20 Fenchurch Street – better known as the Walkie-Talkie building – has the capital’s highest public garden space. Sky Garden includes lush vegetation, an open-air terrace and 360-degree views of the city. It’s free to visit, but you have to book in advance. The Barbican Centre is famous for theatre and art, but it is also home to the second-biggest conservatory in London. Its 23,000 sq ft tropical sanctuary contains exotic fish and more than 1,500 plants, while on Sundays it transforms into a unique setting for afternoon tea. For picnics, why not eat in Waterlow Park near Highgate Cemetery, or in the walled garden inside Brockwell Park near Brixton?
Paddington Covers
Celebrate the sun at a festival. Now in its third year, Paddington Covers (from 26 May) is a free festival that sees tributes to Adele, The Beatles, Lionel Richie and The Rolling Stones perform in Norfolk Square Gardens near Paddington station. DJ duo Freight Train also play, while kids can enjoy giant bubbles, face painting, balloon making and stilt walkers. Organiser Marisa Barrocas says: ‘Over 3,000 people attended last year’s events. Each act went down a storm. This year’s
theme – rock and pop legends – is inspired by the acts that last year’s audience most engaged with.’ On the other side of town there’s Steel Yard London (27-28 May), an offshoot of Creamfields dance festival, in Victoria Park. More than 20,000 revellers pack into a 20m-high metal structure – the largest of its kind in Europe – to dance to tunes mixed by Swedish DJ Eric Prydz and electronic duo Axwell and Ingrosso. Expect an epic laser show with giant 3D holograms.
This image: The Summerhouse Inset: The Waterway
Kyoto Garden
The Summerhouse, a canalside venue near Little Venice, serves catch of the day alongside New England clam chowder, seared scallops and rock oysters. Grab a table by the water on the covered terrace, which is heated so you can stay out late. You could also try its nearby sister restaurant, The Waterway, which has a large wooden deck and garden with parasols, blankets and heaters. London’s bar scene has plenty of alfresco options. You can’t go wrong
with Rumpus Room, a slick rooftop bar that reopened last month following a renovation. On the 12th floor of Mondrian London at Sea Containers hotel, it overlooks the River Thames. If you’d rather be closer to nature, check out The Narrowboat, a beautiful canalside bar in Islington – you might even spot kayakers paddling past. The Crooked Billet, a parkside pub by Wimbledon Common, is another popular option on a sunny day.
PREVIOUS PAGES: REGENT’S PARK OPEN AIR THEATRE © DAVID JENSEN; BATTERSEA ARTS CENTRE © ALEX BRENNER; THE MORGAN STANLEY HEALTHY CITIES GARDEN © RHS/SARAH CUTTLE; JOANNA LUMLEY © HANNAH MCKAY. THIS PAGE: PADDINGTON COVERS © PADDINGTONNOWBID; KYOTO GARDEN © HOLLAND PARK; THE SUMMERHOUSE COURTESY OF THE SUMMERHOUSE; THE WATERWAY COURTESY OF THE WATERWAY
WHERE NOW | OUTDOORS
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STEP INTO THE
FORBIDDEN FOREST
NEW FOR 2017 Follow the winding path deep into the forest, explore breathtaking sets and find out how filmmakers brought the magic to life T I C K E T S M U S T B E P U R C H A S E D I N A DVA N C E AT W B S T U D I OTO U R . CO . U K TM & © 2017 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR.
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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING
MAKING SCENTS OF IT ALL Exclusive to Harrods, this candle smells like a summer’s day Burberry English Rose Scented Candle, £70, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL
FROM LONDON As springtime blooms, we round up floral-inspired gifts from scents to artworks
PICTURE PERFECT Set in a Cotswolds village Carnation, Lily, Lily, Rose Print by John Singer Sargent, from £20, Tate Modern Shop, Bankside, SE1 9TG
FIX UP, LOOK SMART Finely crafted from pure silk Ted Baker Nerther Floral Silk Tie, £49, John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX
BACK TO NATURE By acclaimed American artist Georgia O’Keeffe Jimson Weed, White Flower No 1 Print by Georgia O’Keeffe, from £25, Tate Modern Shop, Bankside, SE1 9TG
SHINE A LIGHT This candle is taken from the late architect Dame Zaha Hadid’s range Solis ‘Corona’ Glass Candle, £65, Royal Academy Shop, Burlington House, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD
COVER UP Take your pick of phone covers for Apple iPhone 7 Phone Covers, from £34.95, Ted Baker, 245 Regent St, W1B 2EN
FLOWER POWER Enjoy accents of jasmine, rose and tuberose Lily Of The Valley Bath Essence, £55, Floris of London, 89 Jermyn St, SW1Y 6JH
Top Pick
BAGS OF FUN The British designer Cath Kidston is famous for her playful prints Scattered Anemone Travel Holdall, £75, Cath Kidston, 178-180 Piccadilly, W1J 9ER
ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; WOMAN © ISTOCK
TIME ON YOUR HANDS This watch has a rosegold bracelet strap Folli Follie Santorini Flower Rose Gold Watch, £175, House of Fraser, 318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF
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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE This image: Tower of London Below: Hampton Court Palace’s Haunted Gallery
Bursting with pride This year marks the 50th anniversary of the 1967 Sexual Offences Act, which decriminalised homosexual acts between men over 21 in England and Wales. To celebrate, Historic Royal Palaces (HRP) is hosting night-time tours that delve into the LGBT+ past of the Tower of London and Hampton Court Palace. The tours bring together storytelling, performances and expert talks that explore ideas of gender and sexuality from across centuries of royal history. Founded in 1066, the Tower of London peels back its history in Pride, Power and Politics (26-27 May; p. 29), a tour that explores the changing attitudes to gender and sexuality from the 12th century to the present day. As you’re guided around Traitors’ Gate, the Bloody Tower, the Chapel Royal of St Peter ad Vincula (‘St Peter in chains’) and Medieval Palace, you’ll learn about King Edward II’s close male friendships, how he treated his favourites – and how his behaviour resulted in the rebellion of the earls.
Learn about how King Henry VIII first made homosexual acts a crime by introducing the Buggery Act of 1533 – the first piece of legislation on sodomy – which was fuelled by a period of religious upheaval that saw the king replace the Pope as the head of the church. You’ll also discover the danger of gay sexual slander and how the alleged homosexuality of a 20th-century prisoner, Roger Casement, was used in Parliament to build a case against him. The tour ends in the Jewel House. Hampton Court Palace is hosting Pride at the Palace (p. 35), a series of evening tours for over 16s. As you stroll through the palace’s courtyards and cloisters, as well as the Tudor, Queen’s and King William’s apartments, you’ll learn about former inhabitants, from the Georgian courtier
John Hervey and his rumoured royal gay lover to the intimate relationship between Queen Anne and her mistress of the robes and her ‘favourites’ Sarah Churchill and Abigail Masham. The 1885 Criminal Law Amendment Act was introduced during Queen Victoria’s reign, reinforcing male homosexuality as a crime while not acknowledging female same-sex desire. It was thought that Queen Victoria didn’t believe lesbians existed – while more recent historians believe women’s exclusion from the act says more about the monarchy and parliament – but you’ll have to attend the tour to find out why. A free HRP podcast is available to download from July, which will explore Henry VIII’s views on homosexuality as a crime and analyse the impact his views had on society.
IMAGES © HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES
Two historic palaces are proud to mark the 50th anniversary since homosexuality was decriminalised, with after-hours LGBT+ themed tours, says Sarah Riches
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and online discounts. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81
SIGHTSEEING Apsley House Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to see its grand interiors and fine art. Please check for times. Please check for prices and times. www.english-heritage.org.uk/apsleyhouse. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
ArcelorMittal Orbit This 114.5-metre tall observation tower, designed by Turner Prize-winning artist Sir Anish Kapoor, gives unrivalled views of the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park (p. 28) and stadium. It also has an outdoor slide, from which you can whizz down, and occasional abseil sessions. Please check for times and prices. www.arcelormittalorbit.com. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333800 8099. Map inset. Station: Stratford.
Banqueting House This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for King James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by celebrated Baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. It is the only remaining part of the Palace of Westminster, which was destroyed by fire. Daily 10am-1pm, but call before visiting. Adult £6.50; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.
Battersea Park Children’s Zoo Zoo with keeper experiences, a play area and a petting farm with donkeys, chinchillas and goats. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £8.95; child £6.95. www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.
Chelsea Physic Garden
Dennis Severs’ House
London’s oldest botanical garden was founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries’ Garden. Admire 5,000 species of plants, especially medicinal ones including tropical plants in glasshouses. Please check for special events. Mon 11am-5pm garden only; Tue-Fri 11am-6pm garden and shop; Sun 11am-6pm garden, shop and café. Adult £10.50; child £6.95. www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.
Since 1979, visitors can explore the home of the artist Dennis Severs, who died in 2000 (p. 36). Ten atmospheric rooms, from the cellar to the attic, illustrate the life of a typical family of Huguenot silk weavers from the 17th to 19th centuries. Keep all your senses alert and keep a look out for its former residents! Silent night tour Mon, Wed & Fri 5pm-9pm. Daytime tour Mon noon-2pm & Sun noon-4pm. Tickets £5-£17.50. www.dennissevers house.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
Chiswick House & Gardens Trust See Old Masters on display in this outstanding manor, which features neo-Palladian interiors designed by William Kent and architecture inspired by ancient Rome and 16th-century Italy. The 18th-century restored gardens inspired Blenheim Palace and New York’s Central Park. Gardens daily 7am-dusk; house Sun-Wed 10am-4pm; conservatory Tue-Sun 10am-4pm. House adult £6.70; child £4. www.chgt.org.uk. Chiswick House & Gardens, W4 2RP. T: 020-8995 0508. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park.
Cutty Sark This 19th-century ship is the world’s last surviving tea clipper, with many of the original features including the cabins of its former sailors. Explore interactive displays on deck or take part in a lively programme of family-friendly events. 3, 10, 17 & 24 May: Toddler Time. Bring your little sailors along for songs, stories and playtime. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £12.15; child £6.30. www.rmg. co.uk/cuttysark. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.
Dr Johnson’s House The writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his first English dictionary, first published in 1755, in this four-storey period home, which dates to the late 17th century. Now a Grade I-listed building, it retains many of its original features. Check for guided walks (1st Wed of every month) in Johnson’s footsteps around Fleet Street. Mon-Sat 11am5.30pm. Adult £6; child £2.50. www.drjohnsons house.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 0207353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane.
Eltham Palace & Gardens Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. Part showpiece of Art Deco design and part royal palace with a medieval great hall and luxurious bathroom, make yourself at home as a guest of the Courtaulds. Explore their map room and beautiful period dresses and hats. Please check for prices and times. www.english-heritage.org.uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.
The British Library The world’s largest library also boasts temporary exhibitions and a great permanent collection. To 29 Aug: Russian Revolution: Hope, Tragedy, Myths. A century on from the Russian Revolution, this major exhibition of artefacts and documents shines new light on the unprecedented events of the period. Exhibition galleries Mon 9.30am-6pm; Tue-Thur 9.30am-8pm; Fri 9.30am-6pm; Sat 9.30am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free; charges for tours, some exhibitions and events. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross.
Top Pick
Buckingham Palace The magnificent London residence and principal workplace of the monarchy has 775 rooms. It’s usually closed to the public, except for the annual summer opening of the State Rooms (22 Jul-1 Oct). www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park. At 11am every Mon, Wed, Fri and Sun, watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather). Free. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. Station: Victoria/Green Park. F7. The Changing the Life Guard Ceremony takes place Mon-Fri 11am; Sun 10am – check in case of last-minute changes. www.royal.gov.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/ Green Park.
A sense of it all
Vibrating floors, blindfold games and a sensory escape room are just some of the highlights of Open Senses (20-21 May; p. 30), a new festival that challenges the senses. The National Gallery, Westminster University and Moorfields Eye Hospital are taking part in the city-wide weekend, which is made up of workshops, exhibitions, live performances, open studios and sensory walks. Director Stephanie Singer says: ‘The festival is motivated by the realisation that people touch their phones more than they touch their loved ones. It aims to get people back in touch with their bodies and senses.’
OPEN SENSES © OLIVIA WILLIAMS
Changing the Guard
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SIGHTSEEING Fulham Palace
The Jewel Tower
The London Bridge Experience & Tombs
This attractive 15th-century building was the summer retreat of the Bishops of London. Now it’s a museum with gardens, café and art gallery (p. 36). Museum, historic rooms and shop winter Mon-Thur 12.30pm-4.30pm; Sun noon-5pm. Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulhampalace.org. Bishop’s Avenue, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.
Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Don’t miss the ornate ceiling carvings. Please check for times and prices. www.english-heritage. org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.
Go Ape Battersea Park
This 19th-century home belonged to the romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books, letters and household items, plus the engagement ring he gave to his sweetheart Fanny Brawne. Wed-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityof london.gov.uk/keatshousehampstead. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
An exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects and actors bring this theatrical, spinetingling scary attraction to life, where you’ll meet historic figures such as Jack the Ripper. Tickets also include the London Tombs, under the bridge, which are in a former plague pit. Please check for times and prices. www.thelondonbridge experience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Golden Hinde II A full-size reconstruction of Sir Francis Drake’s 16th-century vessel, in which he circumnavigated the globe. Regular events include dressing up in historical costumes, quiz nights and battle workshops. Daily 10am-6pm. Guided tour adult £7; child £5. www.goldenhinde.com. 1 Pickfords Wharf, Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0123. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Ham House and Gardens
Kensington Palace This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens and was Princess Diana’s last home. Diana: Her Fashion Story. A fascinating long-term exhibition dedicated to the iconic style of the ‘people’s princess’. See the King’s Staircase adorned with painted walls, and the Queen’s State Apartments. Daily, please check for times. Adult £17; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.
One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses, this atmospheric Stuart mansion on the River Thames has a rich history of period living. Discover its oustanding furniture and textiles, with a hands-on servants area in the basement. Its gardens are said to be haunted. Please check for times. Adult £10.80; child £5.40. www.national trust.org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 0208940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.
Kenwood
Handel & Hendrix in London
Kew Palace
Formerly known as Handel House Museum, these are the homes of Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. See where Handel lived and composed for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom restored to how it was in 1968-1969 (p. 36). MonSat 11pm-6pm; Sun noon-6pm. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhouse.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.
HMS Belfast Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. In service until 1965, it’s now a reminder of Britain’s naval heritage. Explore its nine decks and hear the personal stories of those that worked and lived on board. Daily 10am6pm. Adult £14.50; child £7.25. www.iwm. org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.
Houses of Parliament The site of Parliament since 1265 and still a royal palace, the current building includes the Elizabeth Tower housing the bell Big Ben, which was built in the 19th century. Watch debates for free when the Houses are in session (take your passport). Tours every Sat plus Mon-Fri 26 & 31 May. Audio tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (first child free; online discounts available); guided tour adult £28, child £12. www.parliament. uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.
On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house and its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adams’ interiors and an art collection including Rembrandts, Vermeers and Gainsboroughs. Free admission. Please check for times. www.english-heritage.org.uk/kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead. This royal retreat, in the grounds of Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew (p. 28) open during the summer months, was home to King George III. Don’t miss the Royal Kitchens – untouched since 1818 – and the tiny Queen Charlotte’s Cottage, built around 1771. Admission free with Kew Gardens tickets. www.hrp.org.uk. Kew Gardens, Richmond, TW9 3AB. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.
KidZania London Parents take a back seat here as children take charge at this centre for educational entertainment – a good space for inspiration for their future career. Three times the size of Trafalgar Square, covering a mammoth 75,000 sq ft, this child-size city has two storeys of everything a kid could want including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory, radio presenting classes, disco dancing, food factory, pit lane and aviation academy – there’s even a tattoo parlour. Look out also for occasional evenings, which are for adults. Daily from 10am, check for closing times. Adult from £9.50; child from £11.50. www. london.kidzania.com. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Off map. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.
The Shard is the tallest building in Western Europe (p. 30)
The London Dungeon This uniquely thrilling attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past. See, hear, feel and (ahem) smell the chillinglyamusing characters of the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life before you. Not for small children or the faint-hearted! Joint tickets with Sea Life London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Aquarium, London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Please check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB T: 0871-423 2240. F8. Station: Waterloo/Embankment.
Coca-Cola London Eye This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels. Interactive screens in each pod give an insight into landmarks on view. Joint tickets with the London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Daily from 10am, check for closing times. Adult £24.95; child £19.95. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.
ZSL London Zoo Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 species. As well as an aquarium with tropical fish, penguin beach and endangered Sumatran tigers, you can see the Land of the Lions exhibition – which features Asiatic lions in surroundings designed to resemble an Indian national park. 17 May: Safari in the City. An after-hours event which includes a twilight tour, talks from conservation experts, an Africanthemed dinner and prizes. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £29.75; child £22. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.
Madame Tussauds Celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, from the Queen to Adele. Pose with your favourite legend and visit the terrifying Chamber of Horrors and Scream experiences. Don’t miss the permanent Star Wars exhibition, featuring 11 sets from the film. The Game’s Afoot, an immersive attraction with actors, illusion and sound effects, is a highlight. Joint tickets with the London Aquarium, London Dungeon, London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Please check for times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madametussauds.com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-894 3000. C6. Station: Baker Street.
The Monument This beautiful stone column standing in the heart of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £4.50; child £2.30. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument. org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.
THE SHARD © THE VIEW FROM THE SHARD
Make like a monkey at this treetop playground, suitable for children aged 6+. Negotiate ladders, bridges and zip lines while attached to a reassuring harness. Enthusiastic staff are on hand throughout the 3.5-hour-long experience. Daily from 8.30am. Adult £35; child £27-£35. www.goape. co.uk/battersea-park. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0845- 643 9236. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.
Keats House
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THE SHARD © THE VIEW FROM THE SHARD
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SIGHTSEEING The O2 Star Wars Identities. Browse 200 original sketches, models and props from the film franchise, and answer questions about your personality to reveal which Star Wars character you most identify with. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. Tickets £10-£20. www.theo2. co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
Old Royal Naval College This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, has costumed characters and tours. Don’t miss the magnificent ceiling in the Painted Hall (p.36). During temporary conservation work, you can see the ceiling on an
hour-long tour from an observation deck (adult £10; child £5). Check for guided tours. Daily, check for opening times. Admission free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.
Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes an aquatics centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower (p. 24). Please check website for sporting events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queenelizabetholympicpark.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.
Ripley’s Believe It or Not! This curiosity-filled museum with over 700 artefacts is a hit across the globe. Explore a range of oddities over six floors, from a shrunken head to an albino alligator and the world’s tallest man, plus the eye-popping Magnificent Mirror Maze where it looks like you’re ‘getting lost’. Daily all year round 10am-midnight. Adult £27.99; child £20.99. www.ripleyslondon.com. 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 020-3238 0022. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe, with Victorian tropical greenhouses and a Chinese pagoda. The Treetop Walkway offers great views. Throughout 2017 you can also experience The Hive, an enormous aluminium structure modelled on a beehive surrounded by wildflowers. Buzzing and lights play inside it in response to a real beehive. Daily from 10am, please check for closing times. Adult £15; child £3.50; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.
The Royal Institution of Great Britain Grade I-listed Georgian building housing a museum about the institution’s 15 Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Visit its free Faraday Museum and you can see scientists at work, too. Check the website for its programme of fascinating talks. Mon-Fri 9am-6pm. Admission free; charges for talks. www.rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park.
The Royal Mews Built by John Nash in 1825, this beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses, including the Diamond Jubilee State Coach. Witness daily life and learn about the mews’ history. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm. Adult £10; child £5.80. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.
The Royal Observatory The home of Greenwich Mean Time and London’s only planetarium. Learn about the concept of time in the Peter Harrison Galleries and watch planetarium shows throughout the day. The Sky Tonight. Daily planetarium show that explores the Moon, constellations, planets and deep space objects. Insight Astronomy Photographer of the Year. Stunning exhibition. Meridian Line and observatory daily 10am-4.30pm. Adult £9.50; child £5. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Avenue, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/ Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.
Sea Life London Aquarium One of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a scary glass walkway above 16 sharks. Ocean Invaders: Enter the World of the Jellyfish. Get up close to a swarm of jellyfish at this new permanent exhibition. You can also snorkel with sharks (from £80 including admission). Please check for times and prices. Joint tickets with London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. www.sealife.co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo. 28 W H E R E LO N D O N I M AY 2017
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SIGHTSEEING Shrek’s Adventure!
Tower of London
Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairytale-themed shows where you can meet the characters from the much-loved films. Joint tickets with London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Sea Life London Aquarium available. Please check for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreks adventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo.
See centuries of history at this historic landmark, which has been a prison, an armory and a fortress. Inside is the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the dazzling Crown Jewels which you glide past on a moving walkway. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders) where you can learn about legends of the tower, including the ravens and wild animals that once inhabited. Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). 26-27 May: Pride, Power and Politics. This tour explores the changing attitudes to gender and sexuality from the 12th century to the present day (p. 22). Tue-Sat
St James’s Palace One of London’s oldest palaces, constructed in the 14th century and home to royalty for three centuries. Palace and house closed to the public. www.royal.gov.uk. Marlborough Rd, SW1A 1BS. E7. Station: St James’s Park.
9am-5.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Please check for prices. www.hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
The Vault This venue used to protect the Queen’s treasures under the old Coutts Bank. It’s now a treasure trove and home to the Gaultier bustier from Madonna’s Blonde Ambition tour, plus other iconic rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia at Hard Rock Cafe’s revamped little museum. Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Admission free. www.hardrock.com. Hard Rock Cafe London, 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
St Katharine Docks This central London marina dates back to the 11th century and is tucked away by the Tower of London. The vibrant waterside destination is lined with regular markets, shops, galleries such as Artopia and The Alexander Miles Gallery, and restaurants including CAU, Tom’s Kitchen, Bravas Tapas and White Mulberries. www.skdocks.co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.
St Martin-in-the-Fields Landmark Palladian church with tours, a brass-rubbing centre and live classical music (some free). Holy Communion given daily and classical music performed weekly by candlelight. Please check for opening times. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-thefields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
St Paul’s Cathedral Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama. Then head down to the crypt, with its monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. Don’t miss Oculus: an Eye into St Paul’s, a 270-degree film experience, for an excellent overview. Free tours. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls. co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.
18 Stafford Terrace This house gives an insight into the personal lives of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne, his wife Marion, their two children and their live-in servants, who lived here from 1875. A highlight is a costumed actor-led tour, on which you’ll meet Mrs Sambourne or her parlour maid Mrs Reffell for a dramatic account based on old diaries. Wed, Sat-Sun 11am-12.15pm & 2pm-5.30pm. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
Tower Bridge Exhibition This breathtaking bridge, designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks (not to be confused with its less grand, but much older neighbour, London Bridge). It has wonderful views; check out the glass floor on the high walkways. You can also tour the engine rooms with a knowledgeable guide. Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Please check for prices. www.towerbridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill. www.wheretraveler.com 29
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SIGHTSEEING The View from The Shard
Warner Bros Studio Tour London
Wellington Arch
Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed ‘kaleidoscopic’ lift, for views over the city and beyond. At 1,017ft, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit again for free. If you pre-book you can do yoga on Saturdays at 8.30am (£45). It also hosts silent discos every Saturday at 10pm. Don’t miss the murals on the ground floor of London’s famous characters (p. 26). Daily 10am-10pm. Advance adult £25.95, child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.theviewfromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry Potter films in The Making of Harry Potter tour. After a short film about the site, visitors can get up close to the iconic sets, including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾, among others. You can even taste the famous butter beer! It gives a fascinating insight into filmmaking. Please check for times. Adult £39; child £31. Online booking essential. www.wbstudiotour. co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.
Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and the Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £4.70; child £2.80. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner, the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. Mon-Sat, please check for times. Adult £20; child £9. www.westminster-abbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.
WWT London Wetland Centre This 104-acre wildlife reserve has the Water’s Edge Café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens which are home to more than 100 species of rare and wild birds. Otters are fed at 11am and 2pm. To 21 May: Celebrity Dusty Duck Display. Six foot-tall sculptures including Steve Backshall’s Explorer Dusty, Joanna Lumley’s Absolutely Fabulous Patsy Dusty and Justin Fletcher’s Pirate Justy Dusty take you around the grounds. Open all year round. Daily 9.30am-4.30pm. Adult £12.26; child £6.75. www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS Canalway Cavalcade To 1 May: This waterway festival has been taking place in Little Venice since 1983. Boats are decorated with bunting and there are family-friendly activities including boating and water games, Morris dancing and competitions. There will be food stalls and a real ale bar. Free. www.waterways.org.uk. Little Venice, W2. T: 07979676461. Off map. Station: Warwick Avenue.
Chelsea Flower Show 23-27 May: Stroll past stunning floral sculptures
and through nine beautiful show gardens at this annual event (p. 16). Tickets £35-£63. Tue-Fri 8am-8pm; Sat 8am-5.30pm. www.rhs.org.uk. South Grounds, Royal Hospital Rd, Royal Hospital Chelsea, SW3 4SR. T: 020-7881 5200. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.
Open Senses 20-21 May: Vibrating floors, blindfold games and a sensory escape room are highlights of this new festival, which challenges the senses (p. 24). Expect workshops, exhibitions, live performances, open studios and sensory walks. Please check for times and prices. www.opensenses.square space.com. Various locations.
RIVER TRIPS Circular Cruise Westminster Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hop-on hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster Pier. Boats depart every 40 minutes for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for Tower of London), returning non stop to Westminster. 11am-5pm. Adult single £10, return £14; child single £5, return £7. www.circularcruise.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster. 30 W H E R E LO N D O N I M AY 2017
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SIGHTSEEING City Cruises
Billingsgate Roman House & Baths
Capital Taxi Tours
Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, Waterloo, Tower and Greenwich piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. Thames Circular Cruise is a 50-minute sightseeing service from Tower Pier or Bankside Pier to Westminster and back. London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music Fri-Sat. Please check for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7740 0400. Departure points vary.
Beneath the curious cobbled pathways of the Square Mile is a rich Roman history that’s survived 2,000 years of building, fires and bombings. Lower Thames Street is home to one of Roman London’s most fascinating remains. The Billingsgate Roman Bathhouse was discovered in 1848, and is now open to the public. Explore this fascinating insight into ancient life in the City on a 45-minute guided tour and discover the remains of the Roman Bathhouse which is hidden beneath offices. £8 adult; £6 child. Please check for times. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 101 Lower Thames St, EC3R 6DL. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
A Blue Badge or City of London qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people. Choose from London tours by day or night, trips outside the city and themed tours including a Doctor Who one – on which you’ll see a Tardis, locations from famous films and TV series – and one for TV Downton Abbey fans. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621.
London Duck Tours Ideal if you’re keen for an amphibious adventure. See some of London’s best-loved sights on land before a thrilling splashdown on the River Thames. Adults £26; child £18. www.londonducktours. co.uk. 55 York Rd, SE1 7NJ. T: 020-7928 3132. F8. Station: Waterloo.
London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Daily 10.45am-7.45pm. Adult £13.15; child £6.58. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
City of London Guides Walks A variety of themed walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street – the home of journalism – to Smithfield
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MBNA Thames Clippers The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 20 piers across the capital. Oyster cards are valid. Download the free in:flow app, which can provide a real-time audio explanation of the sights you see as you pass them. River Roamer hop on and off adult £16.30; child £8.15. www.thamesclippers.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7001 2200.
Thames River Services This hop on, hop off service with live audio commentary departs from Westminster Pier and St Katharine’s every 30 minutes, 10am-4pm for Greenwich Piers and the Thames Barrier. Please check for prices (35% online discount Mon-Fri). www.thamesriverservices.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.
Thamesjet Try this 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome aquabatics all in one. Departs from Westminster Pier. From 11am. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.
TOURS & GUIDED WALKS Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top double-decker buses. Tickets are valid for 24 hours. A one-day orientation tour includes three walking tours. Adult £30; child £12.50. www.bigbus tours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753. F6. Station: Victoria.
Big Bus Walking Tours Choose from three guided tours: Royal London at 10am, Harry Potter at 1.30pm and Haunting Mysteries at 4.30pm. All take 90 minutes to two hours. £5, or free with a Big Bus Tour. Daily. www.bigbustours.com. Depart from Big Bus stop 10, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 0207808 6753. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
TAKE AN INTERACTIVE JOURNEY THROUGH LONDON’S SPOOKY HISTORY
TheLondonBridgeExperience.com
The London Bridge Experience, 2-4 Tooley Street, London Bridge, London SE1 2SY
FREE audio guides available
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SIGHTSEEING Market, ‘City in Spires’ – a tour of Wren’s churches, – and City gardens. No advance booking necessary. Adult free-£12.50; child free-£8. www.cityoflondon guides.com. Departure points vary.
Evan Evans The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit Warwick Castle, Windsor Castle, Stratfordupon-Avon, Stonehenge, Bath and more, as well as all the London sights such as St Paul’s Cathedral. Please check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.
Golden Tours
GoToMidtown Tours
From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London experts offer quality tour experiences from London to popular locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Leeds Castle. Please check for times and prices. www.golden tours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.
More than 100 themed 45-minute free tours around Bloomsbury and Holborn. Most walks do not require pre-booking. 10am & 1pm walks start at the orange information kiosk outside Holborn Tube station. www.bee-midtown.org. 88-94 Kingsway, WC2B 6AA. T: 020-7078 7077. D7/8. Station: Holborn.
Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours See the sights aboard an open-top bus. Live guided (Essential Tour) or multilingual audio commentary (all routes) tours let you hop-on and hop-off. One-day, 24-hour and 48-hour tickets. Please check for prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.
SEE INSIDE THE WORLD FAMOUS ROYAL ALBERT HALL GROUPS 15+ Special rates apply
Jack the Ripper Tours Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks, offering an intriguing look at the infamous Jack the Ripper. Numbers are limited in order to give participants a better experience. Booking essential. Daily 7pm from outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East Underground station. £10. www.jack-theripper-tour.com. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.
London Chocolate Tours Sample truffles and ganaches in Mayfair’s finest chocolatiers on this two-hour tour by a former cocoa trader. Along the way you’ll learn how chocolate is made. Booking essential. Sun 12.30pm. £15 for Where London readers (usually £39). Departs from The Ritz London by Green Park Tube station. www.tourguides.org.uk. T: 0208526 7755. E6. Station: Green Park.
The London Helicopter Tour Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with its amazing uninterrupted views. Departing from London’s only heliport, glide above the River Thames, taking in iconic landmarks including the Tower of London, St Paul’s Cathedral and The Shard. Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour – or be brave and opt for the 18-minute ‘open door’ ride (£300 per person). Prices start from £150 per seat for a shared tour. www.the londonhelicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 020-7887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.
ROYAL ALBERT HALL
London Horror Tours Be spooked by ghost stories and tales of the notorious serial killer Jack the Ripper, Sweeney Todd and the Krays on tours run by Dr Jack, an actor, entertainer and former guide. Please visit its Facebook page for more information, and call for times and prices. Departure points vary. T: 07722-24 7660.
London Literary Pub Crawl See where the giants of the London literary world ate, drank and worked. This unique tour is artist-led and arranged by the not-for-profit charity The Maverick Theatre Company. Starting in Fitzrovia and ending in Soho, it includes pubs and bars associated with the British Film industry and writers. Sat 5pm (not 13 May), please check for other times. £24. www.london literarypubcrawl. com. 12 Fouberts Place, Carnaby St, W1F 7PA. T: 020-8090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR VISIT End your tour with a luxurious afternoon tea
Call: 020 7589 8212 royalalberthall.com
/royalalberthall @royalalberthall
London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks, with a choice of morning, afternoon and evening. Favourites include the Jack the Ripper Walks (daily 7.30pm & Sat 3pm from Tower Hill), a Harry Potter tour (selected Wed & every Sat-Sun 2pm; departure points vary) and a spooky West End Ghost Walk (daily 7.30pm; departure points vary). Walks take two hours and there is no need to book. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.
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Original London Sightseeing Walk
Lose yourself in the Crown Jewels
Walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre and include Changing the Guard (departing 10am), Rock ‘n’ Roll (1pm) and Jack the Ripper (3.30pm from Tower Hill Station). Walking tours are free with an Original London Sightseeing Tour, or £9.50 per walk. An Explore Walks Pass, which grants access to all three walks over a 48-hour period, costs £19. www.theoriginal tour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 0208877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
The treasures that united the kingdom
The Original Tour With decades of experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop on and off at more than 80 stops. The 24-hour tour includes three free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass (p. 34). The 48-hour tour includes an extended River Cruise Pass with access to Greenwich. Adult £32; child £15. www.theoriginal tour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
PlanetPass PlanetPass is an app that allows you to book a private guided tour for up to six people at any time or day. Choose from street art, Jack the Ripper, a Borough Market one for foodies, and more. From £9 per person. www.planetpass.com. Departure points vary. T: 01865-922 380.
Royal Albert Hall Tours Book online now to save Nearest tube Tower Hill
Take a one-hour Grand Tour of this grand Victorian concert hall. Most days throughout the year; call for times. Adult £13; child £6. www.royal alberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 0207959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Royal Collection Trust © 2017, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II
Royal Opera House This is one of the world’s leading opera venues, also home to the Royal Ballet company. Backstage Tour. Get an insight into the venue’s history, where you may also see a production in rehearsal. Most days 10.30am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm; please check. Adult £12; child £8.50. www.royaloperahouse.org. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
CAPITAL TAXI TOURS LTD
CAPITAL TAXItaxi TOURS LTD The family friendly tour company “WeThe meet as strangers andtour partcompany as friends” family friendly taxi “We meet as strangers and part as friends”
See London by Night Tour Ride around the West End and City in the evening. Regular departures from outside The Ritz hotel. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm, 8pm, 8.30pm, 9.15pm, 9.45pm & 10.15pm. Adult £18; child £10. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.
London’s oldest and best Taxi Tour company offers more London’s oldest andthan best200 Taxitours Tourof London and the countryside company offers more than 200 tours of Sit backLondon and relax asthe your Registered driver and countryside Guide takes you in an Iconic Sit back and relax asaround your Registered driver Licensed London Black Taxi Guide takes you around in an Iconic Licensed London Black Taxi Choose from 3,4,5,and 8 hour London tours. Besidesfrom the 3,4,5,and main attractions Choose 8 hour explore Londonparts tours. of London tourists never get to see. Besides the main attractions explore parts of London tourists never get to see. General Sightseeing tours, Themed tours include Harry Potter, Beatles, James tours Bond, General Sightseeing tours, Themed Dr Who,Harry JackPotter, the Ripper, Ghost tours, plus include Beatles, James Bond, many more. Dr Who, Jack the Ripper, Ghost tours, plus many more. Countryside tours including Stonehenge, Oxford, Bath, Windsor, Downton Abbey Countryside tours including Stonehenge, Oxford, Bath, Windsor, Downton Abbey
This reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre has tours of props and costumes, while the Sam Wanamaker Playhouse is a candlelit performance space. Tours MonSat 9am-12.30pm; Sun 9am-5pm. Exhibition MonSun 9am-5pm. Exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £16; child £9. www.shakespearesglobe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
©THINKSTOCK
Shakespeare’s Globe (Tours)
Wembley Tours Go behind the scenes at this famous football stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour takes you inside the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel. Have your photo taken with a replica of the FA Cup. From 10am; please check for dates. Adult £20; child £12. www.wembley stadium.com/wembley-tours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.
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SIGHTSEEING Westways Carriage Horses Get collected from your hotel and experience the sights from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage. Tours last 2.5 hours in a four or six-seater carriage, with an adjustable hood. £475 per carriage. www. westwayscarriagehorses.co.uk. T: 020-8572 3155.
OUT OF TOWN Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683. See archaeological artefacts, pre-Raphaelite paintings, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask. Degas to Picasso. Charting the rise of Modernism in France, featuring works by Manet, Cezanne, Degas and Picasso. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm (and 1 May). Free admission, charges for special exhibitions. www.ashmolean.org. Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278000. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford.
A grand tour
See three centuries of treasures in magnificent state rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. The palace is set in 2,100 acres of ‘Capability’ Brown parkland and formal gardens. 27-29 May: Blenheim Palace Food Festival. Outdoor food stalls and tastings. Palace daily 10.30am-5.30pm; park daily 9am-6pm; formal gardens daily 10.30am-6pm. Adult £24.90; child £13.90. www.blenheimpalace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810530. Off map. Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.
BUS © GRANT ROONEY
If you only have a short time in London, make the most of it on a bus tour with The Original Tour (p. 33). The company’s 24-hour tour takes in all the major sights including Big Ben, Tower Bridge and The Shard, and also includes three walking tours and a hop-on, hop-off Thames river cruise. Its 48-hour option features a longer cruise to Greenwich. Since The Original Tour teamed up with Lebara Mobile, adult passengers can take advantage of a free SIM card – collect it from The Original Tour’s visitor centre by Trafalgar Square. Each card is preloaded with £1 credit for calls or data, so you can Instagram holiday snaps on the move.
Blenheim Palace
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BUS © GRANT ROONEY
Hampton Court Palace Once home to King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and maze is set in 60 acres of parkland. Pride at the Palace. Evening tours for over 16s with talks on the palace’s former gay inhabitants (p. 22). Palace, formal gardens and maze daily 10am-6pm. Adult £23; child £11.50. www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.
Leeds Castle Fairytale 900-year-old castle with a moat, gardens and parkland. Explore the spiralling yew maze, and see 100 species of birds in the aviary. Grounds and gardens daily 10am-6pm; Castle daily 10.30am5.30pm. Adult £24.90; child £16.90. www.leedscastle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622765 400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.
ONE OF THE BEST THINGS I’VE EVER DONE
Palace of Holyroodhouse The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Highlights include Mary, Queen of Scots’ chamber. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.royal collection.org.uk. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley, then a 15-minute walk.
Stonehenge This 5,000-year-old World Heritage Site is the world’s most famous stone circle. With obscure Neolithic origins, it is perfectly aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. Daily 9.30am-7pm. Check for prices. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.
TripAdvisor Review
HELICOPTER SIGHTSEEING TOURS Advance booking only at www.thelondonhelicopter.com Call 020 7887 2626 or ask your concierge about booking
Syon Park This stunning Palladian mansion set in parkland is home to the Duke Of Northumberland. Please check for times and prices. www.syonpark.co.uk. Brentford, Middlesex, TW8 8JF. T: 020-8560 0882. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Syon Lane.
Waddesdon Manor
London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night
See By Night
Renaissance-style chateau built in the late 19th century. Magnificent house and wine cellars, plus gardens and aviary. Please check for times and prices. www.waddesdonmanor.org. Near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, HP18 0JH. T: 01296-653226. Off map. Station: Marylebone to Aylesbury.
Warwick Castle Built by William the Conqueror in 1068, this castle is now a family-friendly experience, plus landscaped gardens designed by ‘Capability’ Brown. Please check for times and prices. www.warwick-castle.com. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. Off map. Station: Warwick.
Watts Gallery Artists’ Village An Arts and Crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, with stunning Victorian paintings and sculptures. Tue-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9.50 (Tue £4.75); child free. Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483-810235. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi.
Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle. The State Apartments are furnished with art by Rembrandt, Rubens and Canaletto. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £20.50; child £12. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.
Departing daily from Green Park bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel
at 19:30, 20:00, 20:30, 21:15, 21:45 and 22:15 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night
Adult - £18 Child - £10
Private tours available for groups day or night
Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE This image: The Painted Hall at the Old Royal Naval College Below: Museum of Brands, Packaging & Advertising
Night at the museum See some of London’s best-loved heritage sites in a new light, literally, as Museums at Night (17-20 May) returns to the capital. During this biannual, four-day festival, many museums, galleries and cultural landmarks stay open late to let visitors delve deeper into fascinating subjects. Whether you are visiting alone or with friends or family, there’s a wide range of special events for people of all ages and interests, plus cocktails and entertainment – so you can certainly make a night of it. Highlights include workshop Neuroscience – Why People Buy at the Museums of Brands, Packaging & Advertising (17 May); Vices and Virtues: Life Drawing in the Painted Hall at the Old Royal Naval College, in which you can sketch ‘gods and goddesses’ to the sounds of atmospheric music (18 May); Victorian Variety, a night of folk music, craft beer and period entertainment, at Fulham Palace (18 May); music and dance in Rituals to Mould Her With at Handel & Hendrix (19 May); a celebration
of all things gin at The Geffrye Museum (19 May); and a course on Michelangelo at The National Gallery (19 May). Also at The National Gallery, you can immerse yourself in interactive workshops, live music and a ‘secret bar’ as part of the Renaissance Late event (19 May). Or why not let the Horniman Museum and Gardens entertain you with music, dance, film, tours and performances inspired by the building’s
collections (18 May)? If you’re curious to see how British banknotes have changed over the decades, head to the Bank of England Museum for a series of free special talks and object-handling sessions (19 May). And for something completely different, visit the London Canal Museum, which will be lit with candles and fairy-lights (20 May). If the idea of experiencing a candlelit museum intrigues you, head to Benjamin Franklin House, the American founding father’s last remaining residence and a Grade I-listed Georgian townhouse. Admire it on a fascinating tour (18-19 May). In fact, we Brits love a candlelit tour so much that you’ll find similar events at cultural landmarks all year round, including Sir John Soane’s Museum‘s candlelit late openings (first Tues of every month), and the ‘Silent Night’ immersive experiences at Dennis Severs’ House, home of the late American artist (most Mon, Wed and Fri). Booking is essential for all events. www.museumsatnight.org.uk
PAINTED HALL © OLD ROYAL NAVAL COLLEGE; MUSEUM OF BRANDS, PACKAGING & ADVERTISING © MUSEUM OF BRANDS, PACKAGING & ADVERTISING
If you have ever wanted to recreate the film Night at the Museum, which sees historical statues come alive, Museums at Night will be the closest you’ll get to it, says Sam Rogg
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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and online discounts. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81
MUSEUMS Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a peek inside the players’ changing rooms and tunnel and the Physio Room, or a Legends Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Both include a visit to the museum for an overview of the club’s 125-year history. Self-guided tours Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; Legends Tour from 11am (check for dates). Museum open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; check for match-related closures. Self-guided: adult £20; child £10. Legends: adult from £40; child from £20.75. Museum only: adult £10; child £7. www.arsenal.com/tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5000. Off map. Station: Arsenal.
CANALETTO’S THE BACINO DI S. MARCO ON ASCENSION DAY, C.1733-1734 © ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/(C) HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2016
& ADVERTISING © MUSEUM OF BRANDS, PACKAGING & ADVERTISING
Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the Bank of England from its 1694 foundation to the present day, and find lots of fun activities for kids (p. 36). The newly refurbished Banknote Gallery features historic notes. To 30 Jun: Capturing the City: Photography at the Bank of England. Fascinating record of the Bank, its buildings and staff since the Victorian era. From 2 May: 20th Anniversary of the Bank’s Independence. New display from the bank’s archives celebrates the 20th anniversary of the Government giving the Bank of England independence to make decisions on interest rates. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; closed bank hol. Admission free. www.bankofengland.co.uk/museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.
Benjamin Franklin House
The Cartoon Museum
Charming 18th century townhouse, the last remaining home of American hero Franklin. This powerful overview of the diplomat, inventor, Founding Father and musician uses technology and costumed actors. 18-19 May: Museums At Night Candlelit Architectural Tours. Enjoy the features in evening light (p. 36). Architectural tours Mon noon; 1pm; 2pm; 3.15pm and 4.15pm; historical shows Wed-Sun noon; 1pm; 2pm; 3.15pm and 4.15pm. Tue advance booking required. Shows adult £8; under 16s free. Mon guided tours adult £6; under 16s free. www.benjaminfranklinhouse.org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Dedicated to British cartoons, caricature and comic art from the 18th century to today. To 24 Jul: The Inking Woman. An exhibition of British female cartoon and comic artists. Mon-Sat 10.30am-5.30pm; Sun noon5.30pm. Adult £7; child free. www.cartoon museum.org. 35 Little Russell St, WC1A 2HH. T: 020-7580 8155. D8. Station: Holborn.
The British Museum Unrivalled collection of antiquities, plus the Queen Elizabeth II Great Court. Huge number of permanent displays and treasures from the Roman Empire, Ancient Egypt, Medieval Europe, Ancient Iran and India. Regular talks and evening events. To 7 May: Defacing the Past: Damnation and Desecration in Imperial Rome. Discover Roman history from a different perspective. To 18 Jun: The American Dream: Pop to the Present. Timely major art exhibition tracing 60 years of a superpower. Includes Andy Warhol prints. To 27 Aug: Places of the Mind: British Watercolour Landscapes 1850-1950. From 25 May: Hokusai: Beyond the Great Wave. Works from the final 30 years of Hokusai’s career (p. 38). Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Russell Square.
Charles Dickens Museum Former home of Victorian novelist Dickens, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist. Decorated in early Victorian style as it might have been when he lived here, it displays his personal possessions. From 11 May: A Dickens Whodunnit: Solving the Mystery of Edwin Drood. Exhibition on the legacy of Dickens’ final, unfinished novel. Dickensian Walks on selected Weds & Suns 11.30am. TueSun 10am-5pm. Adult £9; child £4. www.dickens museum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.
Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours Interactive tour of Chelsea FC. Tours daily, every 30 minutes 10am-3pm; check for closures and monthly ex-players tours with past stars of the game (from £70). Museum open daily 9.30am5pm. Adult £22 (museum only £11); child £15 (£9). www.chelseafc.com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871-984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.
Churchill War Rooms Fortified basement where Sir Winston Churchill worked during World War II. Explore the underground bunker and discover what life was like for the prime minister in the Cabinet War Rooms during the war. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £17.25; child £8.60; under fives free. www.iwm.org. uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.
Clink Prison Museum A former prison dating back to 1144, it houses an exhibition about London’s penal past and instruments of torture. It’s said to be haunted by the ghosts of former occupants. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7.30pm. Adult £7.50; child £5.50. www.clink.co.uk. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Design Museum
Sail away The next best thing to visiting Venice is gazing at one of Canaletto’s sensational paintings. Born in 1697, the artist is famed for his depictions of life in the floating city. In the 18th century, he even made money painting views of Venice for tourists – little did they know he would go on to become the greatest Venetian painter that ever lived. See some of his finest works in Canaletto & the Art of Venice (from 19 May; p. 42) at The Queen’s Gallery at Buckingham Palace. These particular works were bought by a young George III in 1762 and are displayed alongside paintings and works on paper by Sebastiano and Marco Ricci, Francesco Zuccarelli, Rosalba Carriera, Pietro Longhi and Giovanni Battista Piazzetta.
Recently relocated to High Street Kensington, this is one of the world’s leading museums of contemporary design and architecture, and an international showcase for the many design skills that Britain excels in. Designer Maker User is a free permanent display of the museum’s world-famous collection. To 4 Jun: Imagine Moscow: Architecture, Propaganda, Revolution. Marking the centenary of the Russian Revolution, this exhibition marks one hundred years since the revolution and explores Moscow as it was imagined by a bold new generation of architects in the 1920s and 1930s. From 24 May: California. While California’s mid-century modernism is well documented, this is the first exhibition to examine its current global reach. Picking up the story in the 1960s, the exhibition charts the journey from the counterculture to Silicon Valley’s tech culture (p. 40). Daily 10am6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington. www.wheretraveler.com 37
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The Fan Museum
The Foundling Museum
Horniman Museum and Gardens
Unusual museum dedicated to the art of the fan with examples from the 12th century onwards. Collections are from across the globe. To 21 May: Biblical Fans. See more than 80 fans which touch upon significant Bible stories. Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £4; child £3; under sevens free. www.thefanmuseum. org.uk. 12 Crooms Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 020-8305 1441. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.
Britain’s original home for abandoned children was founded in 1739 by Thomas Coram, William Hogarth and George Frideric Handel. To 7 May: So That They May Be Useful to Themselves. A display in the Introductory Gallery exploring the Foundling Hospital’s work with disabled children in the 18th and 19th centuries. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £8.25; child free. www.foundlingmuseum. org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square.
Collection based upon that of the adventurous Victorian tea trader Frederick John Horniman (p. 36). To 1 May: Memorial. A Tribute to Taxidermy. Ethical taxidermist Jazmine Miles-Long challenges ideas and perceptions with pieces inspired by the Horniman collection. To 29 Oct: The Robot Zoo. Amazing animals are recreated in robot form to reveal their inner workings. Daily 10.30am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions. www.horniman. ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872. Off map. Station: Forest Hill.
Contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery. To 7 May: Gudrun Sjödén: Four Decades of Colour & Design. See colourful displays celebrating more than 40 years of unique expression by the Swedish designer and textile artist. From 26 May: The World of Anna Sui. Exhibition looking at the classic American designer and her rock-and-roll style. Tue-Sat 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-8pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9.90; child free. www.ftmlondon.org. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 020-7407 8664. F11. Station: London Bridge.
Florence Nightingale Museum Museum about the work of this pioneering 19th-century British nurse and health reformer, widely known as ‘The Lady with the Lamp’. It also tells the story of Jamaican-born nurse Mary Seacole. See paintings honouring the inspirational work of nurses who worked in war-ravaged France. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.80. www.florence-nightingale.co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7620 0374. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.
The Geffrye Museum Historic 18th-century almshouses with rooms recreating English interiors from 1600 to the present day (p. 36). 3 & 17 May: Restored Almshouse Tours. Get a rare glimpse into the lives of London’s poor and elderly in former times (hourly 11am-3pm). To 4 Jun: Teenage Bedrooms: ‘Like a House Inside of a House’. See inside the rooms of 26 London teenagers. Tue-Sun & bank hol 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.geffrye-museum.org.uk. 136 Kingsland Rd, E2 8EA. T: 020-7739 9893. Off map. Station: Hoxton.
The Guards Museum Learn about the history, stories and regimental heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards – the Grenadier, Coldstream, Scots, Irish and Welsh Guards – which today watch over the Royal Palaces. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £6; child free. www.the guardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park/Westminster.
Top Pick
House of Illustration The UK’s only public gallery dedicated solely to illustration, founded by Sir Quentin Blake. To 14 May: Jo Brocklehurst: Nobodies and Somebodies. Powerful works that capture the uncompromising vibrancy of late 20th-century subcultures in London, Berlin and New York. From 5 May: Quentin Blake: The Life of Birds. Showing Blake’s expressive drawing for the original book. Adult £7.50; child £4. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. www.houseofillustration.org.uk. 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
Household Cavalry Museum A living museum that goes behind the scenes of ceremonial duties and roles of the Household Cavalry Regiments. Troopers with their horses work in the original 18th-century stables, with stunning rare treasures on display. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard daily on Horse Guards Parade at 11am; Sun 10am; plus inspection at 4pm. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £7; child £5. www.house holdcavalrymuseum.co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster/Embankment.
Imperial War Museum Huge displays of conflicts, particularly those that involve Britain and the Commonwealth, plus the powerful Holocaust Exhibition. To 28 Aug: People Power: Fighting for Peace. Explore how peace movements have influenced perceptions of war and conflict. To 28 Aug: Edmund Clark: War of Terror. Explore the measures taken by states to protect their citizens and how those methods of control affect the world. To 26 Nov: Afghanistan: Reflections on Helmand. Exhibition examining the British arrival in Helmand province in 2006 and the decisions that shaped the way the conflict escalated. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some special exhibitions. www.iwm. org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North/Waterloo.
Jewish Museum
Riding the wave ‘When I am one hundred and ten, each dot, each line will possess a life of its own,’ wrote one of Japan’s greatest artists, Katsushika Hokusai, in the 19th century. While Hokusai never made it to 110, he didn’t do too badly, passing away in 1849 at 90 years old. In the final 30 years of his life he produced some of his most memorable masterpieces, many of which are on display at The British Museum in Hokusai: Beyond the Great Wave (from 25 May; p. 37). This once-in-a-lifetime exhibition features prints, illustrated books and paintings, as well as domestic scenes and supernatural creatures. Look out for one of his most iconic works: The Great Wave (above) – part of a series of prints of Mount Fuji.
Documenting Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today, including a life-like representation of the Jewish East End immigrant quarter. The Holocaust Gallery provides a harrowing collection of photographs and accounts. To 24 Sep: Amy Winehouse: A Family Portrait. Discover the woman behind the music in this intimate and moving exhibition, which was co-curated with Winehouse’s brother Alex and sister-in-law Riva to celebrate a much-loved singer. The exhibition is accompanied by an Amy-themed street art trail, which gives you a new way to explore the area Amy called home (p. 42). Sat-Thur 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.
UNDER THE WAVE OFF KANAGAWA (THE GREAT WAVE) FROM THIRTY-SIX VIEWS OF MT FUJI. COLOUR WOODBLOCK, 1831. ACQUISITION SUPPORTED BY THE ART FUND © THE TRUSTEES OF THE BRITISH MUSEUM
Fashion and Textile Museum
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Fall in love with Wimbledon Want to feel the weight of the Championships trophies? Interested in watching an interactive ghost of John McEnroe? Keen to cast your eyes over Andy Murray’s title-winning whites? Then step inside the multi-dimensional journey that is Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum. With complimentary audio guides in 10 languages, learn about the history of the sport, see the Championship trophies, and the amazing new Virtual Reality experience. You may also take the behind the scenes tour of the grounds and explore the home of tennis, including Centre Court, for a truly inspirational visit. Supported by
AW4878_Wimbledon_WHERELondonApril_fullpagead.indd 1 WL WIMBLEDON.indd 1
New Virtual Reality experience Open Daily: 10:00am until 5:00pm Nearest Underground: Southfields The Museum Building, The All England Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club, Church Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE
T: 020 8946 6131 | wimbledon.com/museum
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
The restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton is a museum of his life and work. Permanent collections include fine paintings, drawings and sculptures. Don’t miss the two-storey Arab Hall built as a showcase for Leighton’s collection of more than 1,000 tiles from the Middle East. Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Adult £12; child free. www.rbkc.gov.uk/subsites/ museums/leightonhousemuseum1.aspx. 12 Holland Park, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.
London Film Museum Bond in Motion is the official exhibition of James Bond vehicles that feature in the renowned film series. It is the largest display of its kind ever staged in London. It also features the Cars of Spectre, the first UK exhibition of items from the film. Mon-Fri & Sun 10am-6pm; Sat 10am7pm (closed 4 May). Adult £14.50; child £9.50. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7202 7042. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
London Transport Museum Explore London’s transport system. Highlights include red buses, the world’s first Underground steam train and the padded cell – a train carriage dating back to the 1890s. Permanent gallery London by Design reveals how London has become a world leader in transport design. Find out how design is encountered in our everyday journeys and how this has evolved over the past century. From 19 May: Sounds of the City. The best 100 entries from the Prize for Illustration 2017, looking at the sounds in quiet spaces in the UK’s cities (p. 6). Mon-Thur & Sat-Sun 10am-6pm; Fri 11am-6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. www.lt museum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Museum of Brands, Packaging & Advertising Fascinating insight into how everyday lives have changed over the past 200 years through the evolution of consumer brands (p. 36). Exhibits include toys, magazines, newspapers, technology, travel, fashion and design. New revamped Time Tunnel transports visitors through wars and coronations, the coming of cinema, radio and TV and the dramatic rise of branding. To 25 Jun: Celebrating Women in Advertising. Talks, events and a specially commissioned film about gender roles. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9; child £5. www.museumofbrands.com. 111-117 Lancaster Rd, W11 1QT. T: 020-7243 9611. Off map. Station: Ladbroke Grove.
Museum of London The world’s largest urban history museum, covering London’s history from pre-Roman times to the present day. Check for family events and tours. To 8 May: Perspectives of Destruction: Images of London, 1940-1944. See paintings and photographs of the city produced by artists during the 1940 London Blitz. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.
Museum of London Docklands The intriguing history of the meandering River Thames, from its time as a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of the Docklands. Displays including London, Sugar & Slavery, charting the history of the transatlantic slave trade and its links to the city. The Many East Ends gallery explores the culture and history of the area through the eyes of its inhabitants. To 4 Jun: The Royal African. Telling the story of the slave trade in the 17th and 18th centuries. To 3 Sep: Tunnel: The Archaeology of
Let’s get digital ‘Designed in California’ is the new ‘Made in Italy’, says the Design Museum ahead of California: Designing Freedom (from 24 May; p. 37). Beginning in the 1960s, this colourful exhibition traces the impact of Californian design all the way up to Silicon Valley’s tech culture of today. See iPhones, self-driving cars, GPS devices and personal computers that have shaped lives around the world. We can’t all be Californian but, thanks to the tools they’ve given us, we can certainly live as though we are.
Crossrail. The range of archaeological objects unearthed by Crossrail, Europe’s largest infrastructure project. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk/docklands. No 1 Warehouse, West India Quay, E14 4AL. T: 020-7001 9844. Off map. Station: Canary Wharf/West India Quay.
National Maritime Museum The world’s largest maritime museum, which is spread over several sites, was originally part of a 19th-century school for seafarers’ children. Includes a vast collection of maps, artwork and memorabilia including the Maritime Galleries, plus The Great Map, a huge interactive world map revealing stories from maritime history. The £35m Sammy Ofer Wing holds special exhibitions. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.
Natural History Museum Astounding family-friendly collections, with exhibits ranging from the Images of Nature gallery to dinosaur skeletons and fossils. To 10 Sep: Wildlife Photographer of the Year. Annual exhibition illustrating the abundance and vulnerability of life on our planet. To 17 Sep: Sensational Butterflies. Escape into the tropical butterfly house in the museum grounds and get up close to these incredible creatures. Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 020-7942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Queen’s House This delightful 17th-century house, which was once home to Charles I’s queen Henrietta Maria, was designed by Inigo Jones. It now displays a stunning fine art collection, including works by Gainsborough and Hogarth. Daily 10am-5pm; closed bank hol. Admission free. www.rmg.co.uk/ queens-house. Queen’s House, Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.
Royal Air Force Museum National aviation museum focusing on the Royal Air Force, with more than 100 historic aircraft on show. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.raf museum.org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.
Science Museum A huge museum dedicated to science, technology and medical achievements, great for kids, plus an IMAX 3D cinema. Permanent galleries include Information Age, with rare exhibits including the BBC’s first radio transmitter 2LO, plus Wounded: Conflict, Casualties and Care – a display marking the centenary of the Battle of the Somme and the huge medical and human impact of wounding during and beyond World War I. To 25 Jun: Voyages. Internationally acclaimed photographers Anderson & Low turn their camera on the museum’s much-loved collection of maritime models. To 3 Sep: Robots. Explore the 500-year story of humanoid robots and the artistic and scientific quest to understand what it means to be human. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.science museum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0870-870 4868. F4. Station: South Kensington.
NASA’S VEHICLE SYSTEM TEST BED (VSTB) ROVER COURTESY OF DESIGN MUSEUM
Leighton House Museum
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NASA’S VEHICLE SYSTEM TEST BED (VSTB) ROVER COURTESY OF DESIGN MUSEUM
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Sherlock Holmes Museum Museum dedicated to the famous fictional detective and kept exactly as described in author Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s thrilling stories. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £15; child £10. www.sherlockholmes.co.uk. 221b Baker St, NW1 6XE. T: 0207224 3688. A3. Station: Baker Street.
Sir John Soane’s Museum The architect Soane’s former home, a Regency townhouse left to the nation in 1837 as a public museum, now houses a gem of a collection including Hogarth paintings, his own architectural drawings and antiquities from around the world (p. 36). To 23 Sep: Marc Quinn: Drawn from Life. New ethereal sculptures by the contemporary artist. Museum tours daily; times vary. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm. Closed bank hol. Candlelit opening first Tue every month, 6pm-9pm. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.
Viktor Wynd Museum of Curiosities, Fine Art & Natural History A former shop turned tiny museum and bar-café, displaying weird and wonderful things downstairs. Expect to see paintings, taxidermy and erotica. Wed-Sun noon-10.30pm. Admission £5. www.the lasttuesdaysociety.org. 1 Mare St, E8 4RP. T: 020-7998 3617. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.
The Wallace Collection A beautiful collection of Rococo art. Paintings include Frank Hals’ Laughing Cavalier. Daily 10am5pm. Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.
Wellcome Collection Wellcome Trust’s public venue houses more than 1,500 fascinating artefacts relating to health and the body, including permanent exhibits Medicine Now and Medicine Man, the personal collection of Sir Henry Wellcome. Regular talks and tours. To 21 May: Making Nature: How We See Animals. Examine the historical origins of our ideas about other animals. To 25 Jun: Electricity: The Spark of Life. The natural power of electricity as a potent symbol of the modern world. TueWed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.wellcome collection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.
Somerset House This Thameside neo-classical 18th-century building houses the famous Courtauld Gallery, Embankment Galleries, cafés and restaurants. To 7 May: Sony World Photography Awards & Martin Parr – 2017 Exhibition. Rich and fascinating photographic stories around the world, including rarely seen works by Parr. From 18 May: Mat Collishaw: Thresholds. A virtual-reality artwork recreating an 1839 photography exhibition. Galleries daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Temple.
Twinings Museum The home of Twinings the tea-maker since 1706, where visitors can get a taste of its 300-year-old history at the company’s tiny in-store museum, with tea-tasting sessions. See vintage teapots and caddies, plus old photos of the Twining family. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm. Admission free. www.twinings. co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.
V&A Museum of Childhood National collection of childhood objects dating back to the 16th century. To 21 Jan: Searching for Ghosts. A glimpse into the experiences of several generations of east Londoners. To 4 Jun: ABC Photography. The alphabet is reinvented in this display by photographers exploring new notions of the age-old teaching tool for children: the alphabet book. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free. www.museumofchildhood.org.uk. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.
Victoria and Albert Museum The V&A’s collection of fine and applied arts spans 3,000 years and includes ceramics, fashion, paintings, photographs and illustrations from around the world. From 13 May: Pink Floyd: Their Mortal Remains. This must-see exhibition is a spectacular audio-visual journey through the music of the prog rock band’s music, design and staging, from the 1960s to the present day (p. 10). From 27 May: Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion. Exhibition about the revered designer Cristóbal Balenciaga and his unique vision of female beauty plus use of textiles. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam. ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington. www.wheretraveler.com 41
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
At the famous venue of the sporting championships, visit the museum showcasing original trophies, art and tennis kits from the current and past champions. Interactive displays and audio-guides in 10 languages make this enjoyable for all. Look out for the ‘ghost’ of John McEnroe and the new virtual-reality experience taking you to the heart of the action on Centre Court. Behind-the-scenes tours of the grounds reveal many of the secrets of the tournament. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Museum adult £13; child £8. Museum and tour adult £24; child £15. One free child to every full-price adult. www.wimbledon.com/museum. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.
GALLERIES Barbican Art Gallery Multi-arts venue with two exhibition spaces: the Barbican Art Gallery and The Curve. To 25 Jun: The Japanese House: Architecture and Life after 1945. Exhibition focusing on Japanese domestic architecture from the end of World War II to now, featuring the designs of more than 40 architects. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. Sat-Wed 10am-6pm; Thur-Fri 10am-9pm. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican.
Ben Uri Gallery The London Jewish Museum of Art houses more than 1,000 works. To 18 Jun: Refugees: The Lives of Others. Two exhibitions of works by 20th-century German refugee artists. Includes interviews with German UK citizens, including those who had to flee Germany prior to World War II. Mon 1pm-5.30pm; Tue-Fri 10am-5.30pm; Sat & Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.benuri.org.uk. 108a Boundary Rd, off Abbey Rd, NW8 0RH. T: 020-7604 3991. Off map. Station: Kilburn High Road.
The Courtauld Gallery Important European art collection, plus temporary exhibitions, housed in Somerset House. To 29 May: Reading Drawings. Intriguing variety of inscriptions that can be found on drawings, from artists’ signatures to casual notes and records of ownership. To 24 Sep: Bloomsbury Art & Design. A wide-ranging selection of early 20th-century creative pieces by the famous Bloomsbury Group. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £7; child free. www.courtauld.ac.uk. Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 0RN. T: 020-7848 2526. E8. Station: Embankment.
Dulwich Picture Gallery England’s first public art gallery, founded in 1811, holds one of the finest collections of Old Masters in the UK. The building was designed by the renowned 19th-century architect Sir John Soane. To 4 Jun: Vanessa Bell (1879-1961). See more than 100 paintings, ceramics, fabrics and photographs arranged thematically to explore the artist’s pioneering work. To 21 Jan: The Private Made Public: The First Visions. Learn more about a typical visit to Dulwich Picture Gallery in the 19th century. Tue-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat-Sun 11am-5pm; closed bank hol. Adult £7; child free; charges for special exhibitions. www.dulwichpicturegallery.org.uk. Gallery Rd, SE21 7AD. T: 020-8693 5354. Off map. Station: West Dulwich/North Dulwich.
Estorick Collection
Newport Street Gallery
Charming bijou gallery in a Grade II-listed Georgian building, specialising in modern Italian art. To 25 Jun: Giacomo Balla: Designing the Future. Career-spanning retrospective of one of Italian Futurism’s most important artists, with paintings and applied arts from 1895 to 1958. Wed-Sat 11am-6pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.estorickcollection.com. 39a Canonbury Square, N1 2AN. T: 020-7704 9522. Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington.
Damien Hirst’s huge gallery exhibits work from his extensive art collection. To 20 Aug: Ashley Bickerton. Varied mixed-media works by the contemporary artist. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.newportstreetgallery.com. Newport St, SE11 6AJ. T: 020-3141 9320. G8. Station: Vauxhall/Lambeth North.
Guildhall Art Gallery Paintings collected by the City of London since the 17th century, including historic events and royalty. It also houses the Roman Amphitheatre, which was only discovered in 1988 (free entry with gallery ticket). The new Heritage Gallery displays William Shakespeare’s First Folio. To 16 Jul: Echoes Across the Century. Explore the personal stories of those who fought in World War I and of those left behind. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.
ICA (Institute of Contemporary Arts) Cutting-edge gallery with changing exhibitions of art and installations, plus a café/bar, bookshop and arthouse cinema. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sun 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Adult £1; child free. www.ica.org.uk. The Mall, SW1Y 5AH. T: 020-7930 3647. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Charing Cross.
The National Gallery One of the world’s great galleries, with works by masters from Monet to da Vinci. Regular guided tours, talks and workshops; music from students of Royal College of Music Fridays 6pm-7pm. To 21 May: Cagnacci’s Repentant Magdalene. Witness Cagnacci’s masterpiece, on view in the UK for the first time in more than 30 years. To 28 Aug: Chris Ofili: Weaving Magic. Turner Prize-winner unveils a new tapestry, handwoven by Dovecot Tapestry Studio. To 25 Jun: The Credit Suisse Exhibition: Michelangelo & Sebastiano. Discover the extraordinary artistic relationship between two great Renaissance masters. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.national gallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
National Portrait Gallery One of the nation’s most prominent galleries provides a panorama of the British people in paintings, drawings and photographs. To 29 May: Gillian Wearing and Claude Cahun: Behind the Mask, Another Mask. See works by both the French Surrealist and the British artists. To 18 Jun: Howard Hodgkin: Absent Friends. Exhibition of portraits by one of Britain’s leading artists. Sat-Wed 10am-6pm; Thur & Fri 10am-9pm (regular Late Shift special events). Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
See Amy Winehouse’s guitar at the Jewish Museum (p. 38)
The Photographers’ Gallery London’s largest gallery devoted to photography. To 11 Jun: Deutsche Börse. Images from the famous international photography competition, now in its 21st year. To 11 Jun: Roger Mayne. Pioneering photographs of 1950s and 1960s community life in Southam Street in North Kensington. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. Admission free before noon; then £4. www.the photographersgallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 020-7087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
The Queen’s Gallery More than 500 years of treasures from the Royal Collection displayed at Buckingham Palace, including paintings, furniture and ceramics. From 19 May: Canaletto & the Art of Venice. A wonderful selection of art depicting 18th-century Venice, with Canaletto’s greatest works plus those of his contemporaries (p. 37). Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £10.30; child £5.30. www.royalcollection. org.uk. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park/Hyde Park Corner.
Rivington Place Cutting-edge art gallery and cultural space, dedicated to ethnically diverse visual arts from the organisations Iniva and Autograph ABP. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm; Sat noon6pm. Admission free. www.rivingtonplace.org. Rivington St, EC2A 3BA. T: 020-7749 1240. C11. Station: Old Street.
Royal Academy of Arts Eighteenth-century apartments with RA Collection works in all media, including architecture. To 4 Jun: America After the Fall: Painting in the 1930s. Forty-five iconic works that paint an electrifying portrait of a transformative period. 4-7 May: London Original Print Fair. Prints from old and modern masters, all for sale. Daily 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-10pm; check for regular special events and free lunchtime concerts. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/ Green Park.
Saatchi Gallery Groundbreaking contemporary art in a renovated Georgian building, covering a mammoth 70,000 square feet. To 14 May: Salon 001: Tsuyoshi Maekawa Maekawa. Avant-garde works for this inaugural presentation at the gallery’s new project space. To 30 May: From Selfie to Self-Expression. Interesting exhibition exploring the history of the selfie, from Old Masters up until today. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.saatchi-gallery.co.uk. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 020-7811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square.
GUITAR COURTESY OF THE JEWISH MUSEUM
Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours
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Visit London and see the world! Discover the treasures of world cultures, from Egyptian mummies and ancient Greek sculpture to African art and Chinese porcelain.
Serpentine Gallery A respected arts space in Kensington Gardens displaying modern and contemporary work. To 21 May: A World View: John Latham. Broad range of works by the pioneering British conceptual artist, including sculpture, installation, painting and film. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentinegalleries.org. Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.
Serpentine Sackler Gallery Previously The Magazine Building, this arts space was designed by renowned architect Zaha Hadid. To 21 May: Speak: Tania Bruguera, Douglas Gordon, Laure Prouvost and Cally Spooner. Contemporary artists whose practices expand the late John Latham’s ideas, as seen in the Serpentine Gallery. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentinegallery.org. West Carriage Drive, Kensington Gardens, W2 2AR. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.
The Museum’s audio guide helps you make the most of your visit. Find out more about the Museum’s most popular objects or take a themed tour – it’s up to you. The audio guide is available in 10 languages. britishmuseum.org
Tate Britain The nation’s leading collection of British art from 1500 to today, including the world’s largest collection of works by Turner. To 1 Oct: Queer British Art 1861-1967. Marking the 50th anniversary of the decriminalisation of male homosexuality in England, with works from 1861 to 1967. To 29 May: David Hockney. One of the most popular and influential British artists of the 20th-century returns to Tate Britain for his most comprehensive exhibition yet. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.
Sponsored by
Tate Modern International modern art in the transformed Bankside Power Station on the River Thames, plus regular performances and installations at The Tanks. To 21 May: The Radical Eye: Modernist Photography from the Sir Elton John Collection. A rare chance to see this private collection of photography. To 11 Jun: Wolfgang Tillmans. Innovative images, from still-life to digital slide projections, by the artist. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri & Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.
Whitechapel Gallery East End gallery, with contemporary art. To 14 May: Eduardo Paolozzi. A retrospective of the 20th-century artist’s fivedecade career, from post-war bronzes to bold fashion designs. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sun 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.whitechapel.org. 77-82 Whitechapel High St, E1 7QX. T: 020-7522 7888. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.
COMMERCIAL GALLERIES Alan Cristea Gallery A leading gallery on the European art scene with paintings and sculptures. Admission free. www.alancristea.com. 31 & 34 Cork St, W1S 3NU. T: 020-7439 1866. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
October Gallery Contemporary art from all cultures, including ethnic, tribal and cutting-edge art. www.octobergallery. co.uk. 24 Old Gloucester St, WC1N 3AL. T: 020-7242 7367. D8. Station: Holborn.
Explore London’s history. Discover the story of the capital from prehistoric times to the present day through eight world-class galleries. FREE ENTRY museumoflondon.org.uk 020 7001 9844 150 London Wall, London EC2Y 5HN Barbican, St Paul’s, Moorgate
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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE Clockwise from top left: The Old Vic; inside The Old Vic; John Boyega in Woyzeck
Stars on stage
The force is strong John Boyega has come a long way since playing a gang leader in Attack the Block, a low-budget British film that saw him save the streets of Brixton, south London, from an alien attack. In 2015 he starred in a film that most actors would break a leg for: Star Wars: The Force Awakens. But while Boyega could walk into any role, he is starring in Woyzeck (from 13 May) at The Old Vic. A new version of the play, which was left unfinished after the death of its original author, is being resurrected. The structure and ending of Woyzeck has been open to interpretation ever since the death of Georg Büchner, who wrote the tragedy in 1836. This version is a world premiere directed by Joe Murphy and written by Jack Thorne – who’s worked on the West End’s Harry Potter and the Cursed Child and TV’s Skins and Shameless. It’s 1980s Berlin. The Cold War rages and the world is torn between capitalism and communism. On the border between East and West, young soldier Woyzeck and his lover are desperately trying to escape poverty to build a better future for their child.
Based on a true story, the play deals with themes of class hierarchy, oppression of the poor and jealousy, in a tale about the people society leaves behind and the tragic consequences this has. Woyzeck agrees to take part in medical experiments to earn more money. But when he suffers from apocalyptic visions and hears voices, his doctor treats him like a specimen to be studied rather than as a person to care for. Mocked by his middle-class military superiors, Woyzeck’s mental health deteriorates and the mother of his child, Marie (Sarah Greene), withdraws from him. Over the years, the play has taken the form of an opera and various films, each with a different ending – so even if you’ve seen it before, you’ll be kept guessing. For full listing, turn to p. 52
DAVID TENNANT David Tennant (above) returns to the West End as a sex addict in Don Juan at the Wyndham’s Theatre (p. 48). This funny and filthy version is set in modern-day Soho.
ANNEMARIE DUFF Mary, a liar, rogue and thief, is set on winning back her former home during the Industrial Revolution. Anne-Marie Duff takes the lead in Common (from 30 May; p. 48), a black comedy at the National Theatre.
MIRANDA HART The comedian Miranda Hart (left) changes tack as she makes her West End debut as Miss Hannigan in Annie (from 23 May; p. 46) at the Piccadilly Theatre. It’s 1930s New York, in the midst of the Great Depression, and orphan Annie is miserable under the rule of horrible Miss Hannigan.
THE OLD VIC EXTERIOR © MANUEL HARLAN; THE OLD VIC INTERIOR © PHILIP VILE; JOHN BOYEGA © AKSE P19 PENTAGRAM; DAVID TENNANT COURTESY OF DON JUAN; MIRANDA HART © MATT CROCKETT
Don’t miss Star Wars actor John Boyega in a Cold War drama, says Sarah Riches
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‘A DAZZLING SHOW IT’S A PERFORMANCE THAT’S AT ALL TIMES EXHILARATING’ EVENING STANDARD
GUARDIAN
BROADWAY WORLD
THE DAILY TELEGR APH
‘CASEY NICHOLAW’S VERSION IS THE SOLID-GOLD REAL DEAL’ BA Z BAMIGBOYE, DAILY MAIL
TOM EYEN MUSIC BY HENRY KRIEGER ORIGINAL BROADWAY PRODUCTION DIRECTED AND CHOREOGRAPHED BY MICHAEL BENNETT DIRECTED AND CHOREOGRAPHED BY CASEY NICHOLAW BOOK AND LYRICS BY
DAY SEATS AVAILABLE £20 DAY SEATS AVAILABLE FROM 10AM AT THE BOX OFFICE
SAVOY THEATRE | Strand, London, WC2R 0ET | DreamgirlsWestEnd.com
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81. Check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets for West End shows (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP)
Aladdin This Broadway and West End hit has a stellar cast led by director Casey Nicholaw. Expect tunes such as A Whole New World with lyrics by Tim Rice, and a magic carpet. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £49.75-£141.75. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Alice’s Adventures Underground Following a run in 2015, the immersive show based on Lewis Carroll’s children’s classic was nominated for an Olivier Award – and it’s returning to beneath Waterloo Station. Please check for times and prices. www.alice-underground.com. The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. F8. Station: Waterloo.
An American in Paris Originally a jazz number written in 1928 by the American composer George Gershwin and then an Oscar-winning film of the same name in 1951, this follows an American World War II veteran who falls for a woman in a bar in 1940s Paris. But will she marry him, or his friend? Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2pm. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.an americaninparisthemusical.co.uk. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845-200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Annie From 23 May: Miranda Hart stars as the mean manager of an orphanage in this popular story about a little girl called Annie (p. 44). 7.30pm (not 30 May). Tickets £43.80-£137.50. www.piccadilly theatre.org. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Beautiful – The Carole King Musical Musical about the early life and career of the award-winning singer-songwriter. Mon & WedSat 7.30pm; Tue, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£72.50. www.beautifulmusical.co.uk. Aldwych Theatre, 49 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Holborn/ Charing Cross.
The Book of Mormon
42nd Street
This controversial and hilarious satire, from the writers of TV’s South Park, follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. It is the winner of four Olivier Awards, including Best New Musical. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £34.75£202.25. www.bookofmormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square/ Piccadilly Circus.
Directed by Mark Bramble, this romantic comedy follows an authoritarian director as he stages a musical during the Great Depression. Clare Halse (Gypsy) stars as Peggy, a small-town girl with big dreams who’s stuck in a chorus line on Broadway’s newest show. But when the leading lady Dorothy Brock (Sheena Easton) gets injured, Peggy has a shot at stardom. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£125. www.42ndstreetmusical. co.uk. Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844-858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Dreamgirls Glee TV star Amber Riley plays Effie White in this musical about the tumultuous journey of a young female singing trio from Chicago. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£145. www.savoytheatre.org. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
The Girls Take That superstar Gary Barlow has teamed up with his friend Tim Firth – the writer of the film Calendar Girls – to create this musical, which, like the film, is inspired by a true story. It follows a group of Yorkshire women who posed nude for a Women’s Institute charity calendar. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £29.50-£69.50. www.phoenixtheatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843316 1082. E7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Phantom of the Opera’s make-up takes two hours to apply and 30 minutes to remove
Egyptian Extravaganza 10-13 May: What happens when you disturb a celebrity pharaoh’s tomb? All will be revealed in Egyptian Extravaganza, an interactive show by Soha Khan, a Saudi Arabian theatre producer, in the Colab Factory near Borough. Travel back in time to 1920s Egypt, when archaeologists discovered King Tut’s tomb, and experience the impact the find had on the West on everything from fashion and film to music and dance. This is one show that’s not to be missed! Please check for times and prices. www.colabfactory.co.uk. Colab Factory, 74 Long Lane, SE1 4AU. T: 07724-633985. F10. Station: London Bridge/Borough.
Footloose: The Musical 15-20 May: Based on the 1984 film, Footloose follows city boy Ren as he moves to a small American town where dancing is banned. Lo and behold, he gets the whole town dancing to Holding Out for a Hero, Let’s Hear it for the Boy and Footloose. The show stars Gareth Gates (Les Misérables, Legally Blonde). 7.30pm. Tickets £18.75-£48.15. www.atgtickets.com. Richmond Theatre, The Green, TW9 1QJ. T: 0844-871 7651. Off map. Station: Richmond.
Roll up, roll up If you have ever dreamed of running away with the circus, then you might think twice after watching La Strada at The Other Palace (from 30 May), formerly the St James Theatre. Based on Federico Fellini’s Italian classic from 1954 – which won an Academy Award for Best Foreign Language Film – this stage adaptation is directed by Sally Cookson (The Play That Goes Wrong) and features a score by Benji Bower along with a live chorus on stage. The story follows Gelsomina after her penniless mother sells her to Zampano, a cruel, dominating sideshow strongman. They perform across the Italian countryside to earn their keep – until she escapes and meets tightrope walker II Matto (Bart Soroczynski). But when Zampano finds her, how will he react? Watch the show to find out.
Half a Sixpence Catch Cameron Mackintosh’s musical theatre version of HG Wells’s novel Kipps: The Story of a Simple Soul, which follows Arthur Kipps, an orphan draper’s assistant who unexpectedly inherits a fortune that propels him into high society. His childhood companion, Ann Pornick, watches with dismay as the beautiful Helen Walsingham gives Arthur a makeover. Both women love him – but which of them should he listen to? Mon-Tue & Thur-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £49.75-£127.25. www.halfasixpence.co.uk. Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
Kinky Boots Inspired by true events, this is a joyous story of Brit grit to high-heeled hit. The fun musical follows a shoe factory which reinvigorates its business after its new owner decides to produce knee-high boots for drag queens. Music and lyrics are by Grammy and Tony Award-winning pop icon Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £39.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical. co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
La Strada From 30 May: Based on Federico Fellini’s 1954 Italian classic – which won an Academy Award for Best Foreign Language Film – this stage adaptation is directed by Sally Cookson (The Play That Goes Wrong, Top Hat). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£39.50. www.theotherpalace.co.uk. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. T: 0844-264 2140. F7. Station: Victoria.
Les Misérables The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s classic novel, is set in postRevolutionary France. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £28.75-£143.75. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square/ Piccadilly Circus.
LA STRADA COURTESY OF THE OTHER PALACE
MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES
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ENTERTAINMENT Disney’s The Lion King
School of Rock: The Musical
Wicked
Wonderful adaptation of the popular Disney film with ingenious costumes and inventive puppetry (p. 52). Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm. Tickets £71.50-£179.50. www.thelionking. co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Andrew Lloyd Webber’s latest musical, based on the film of the same name, was a hit on Broadway. It follows Dewey Finn, a failed, wannabe rock star who decides to earn money by posing as a substitute teacher at a prestigious prep school. Mon, Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £15-£95. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com. New London Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
The brilliant back story of the witches of Oz with the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £21.75-£125. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.
A tribute to ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £15-£72.50. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Temple.
Stepping Out
Based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers. Tue 7pm; Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £20£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
TV’s The Darling Buds of May writer Richard Harris wrote the original play after being inspired by his wife’s dance class in a north London church hall. Funny and heart-warming, it follows a group of beginner dancers entering a charity gala. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24-£102. www.vaudeville-theatre.co.uk. Vaudeville Theatre, 404 Strand, WC2R 0NH. T: 0330-333 4814. E8. Station: Charing Cross/Covent Garden.
Motown the Musical
Stomp
Matilda the Musical
Musical based on the story of Motown Records, which launched the careers of Diana Ross and the Supremes, Michael Jackson and The Jackson 5, Stevie Wonder, Marvin Gaye and The Temptations. By the end of the night you’ll be Dancing in the Street. Check for times and prices. www.shaftesbury theatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Avenue, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.
An award-winning fusion of theatre, dance, comedy and rhythmic percussion, using everything from newspapers to bins. You will leave with your toes tapping and your adrenaline pumping. Mon & Thur-Sat 8pm; Thur & Sat-Sun 3pm; Sun 6pm; occasional Weds. Tickets £26-£57.50. www.stomplondon.co.uk. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Phantom of the Opera
Thriller Live
Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.80-£128.50. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson. You’ll leave on such a high you’ll zombie dance back to your hotel. Tue-Fri 7.30pm; Sat 4pm & 8pm; Sun 3.30pm & 7.30pm. Tickets £42-£88.00. www.thriller live.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
A haunting tale Britain’s oldest dance company, Rambert, is showcasing its classic Ghost Dances alongside other works at Sadler’s Wells for the first time in 14 years (16-20 May; p. 52). First performed in 1981, Christopher Bruce’s eerie contemporary work is on a UK tour and will be performed at Sadler’s as part of a triple bill. Ghost Dances is a tribute to victims of oppression in South America set to Latin American folk beats. It sees the daily lives of ordinary people depicted through joyful, compassionate dances, interrupted by death in the form of ghost dancers dressed in rags and skeleton masks. The triple bill also features Didy Veldman’s The 3 Dancers – a true tale of passion and betrayal that inspired the Picasso painting of the same name.
Top Pick
PLAYS The Braille Legacy A world première of the true, inspirational story of Louis Braille, a blind boy who improved the lives of millions. Blind people in Paris in the 19th century were victims of discrimination. A bright young mind with a mad dream, Louis arrives at the Royal Institute of Blind Youth, craving independence. But he finds that people aren’t always what they seem. By sheer determination and courage, he stumbles upon a simple yet revolutionary idea. Two hundred years ago, Louis changed the world by inventing the tactile system of communication: the Braille alphabet. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed 2.30pm; Sat 3pm. Tickets £17.50-£39.50. Charing Cross Theatre, The Arches, Villiers St, WC2N 6NL. T: 0844-493 0650. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
The Cardinal To 27 May: Hailed as James Shirley’s tragic masterpiece, The Cardinal (1641) was one of the last plays staged in England before Oliver Cromwell’s ban on theatre. With remarkably lucid and fast-paced dialogue, it is the story of a religious monster and his pursuit of power. 3.30pm & 8pm. Tickets £16-£20. www.southwarkplayhouse. co.uk. Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. Off map. Station: Elephant and Castle.
The Comedy about a Bank Robbery A funny play about six incompetent crooks, from The Play That Goes Wrong team. Tue, Thur & Fri 7.30pm; Wed 2.30pm; Sat 2.30pm & 7.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £20-£49.50. www.thecomedyaboutabankrobbery.com. The Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Common From 30 May: Mary, a rogue and faker, is set on winning back her former home before land that belongs to all disappears in the Industrial Revolution. Anne-Marie Duff takes the lead (p. 44). Check for times. Tickets £15-£50. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 0207452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time Adaptation of Mark Haddon’s novel about a boy with learning difficulties who investigates a local mystery. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £29.50-£125. www.curiousonstage.com. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/ Leicester Square.
Don Juan in Soho David Tennant stars in this West End premiere, directed by Patrick Marber. Based on Molière’s tragicomedy Don Juan, this update transports the action to contemporary Soho and follows the adventures of its cruel, debauched protagonist (p. 44). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10£75. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844-482 5120. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
GHOST DANCES © JANE HOBSON
Mamma Mia!
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Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this theatrical experience based on the cult TV comedy. Thur-Sat 7pm; Sat 1pm; Sun 1pm & 6pm. Tickets £59-£69. www.faultytowers-uk.com. The Torquay Suite Theatre, Amba Hotel Charing Cross, Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0845-154 4145. E8. Station: Charing Cross. Kingsway Hall Hotel, 66 Great Queen St, WC2B 5BX. D8. Station: Holborn.
The Goat, or who is Sylvia? Martin, a middle-aged, successful architect, has a perfect life until it’s thrown into turmoil when he confides in his best friend that he has fallen in love with a goat. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 3pm (no show 29 May-3 Jun). Tickets £15-£99. www.trh.co.uk. Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Island From 31 May: Two men, unlikely friends, stagger through crippling prison work, breaking free in nights of playful escapism. This drama draws on Robben Island where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned. Check for times. Tickets £12-£20. www.southwarkplayhouse.co.uk. Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. Off map. Station: Elephant and Castle.
Rags to riches The true tale of Charles II’s favourite mistress is set to be brought alive with Nell Gwynn at Shakespeare’s Globe (2-13 May). Originally produced by Dominic Dromgoole at the Globe in 2015, the show went on to win the 2016 Olivier Award for Best New Comedy and is now on a national tour. Written by Jessica Swale and directed by Christopher Luscombe, the play is set on London’s Drury Lane in 1660. Laura Pitt-Pulford stars as ‘pretty, witty Nell’, a lowly orange seller in the West End who catches the eye of King Charles II. Her good looks, charm and new royal standing help catapult her through society to become a famous actress and an unlikely heroine.
Life of Galileo From 6 May: An out-of-this-world production
of Brecht’s masterpiece on a wrap-around set, directed by BAFTA-winner Joe Wright. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£38. www.youngvic.org. Young Vic, 66 The Cut, SE1 8LZ. T: 020-7922 2922. F9. Station: Waterloo.
The Miser
Tick Tick‚ Boom! 3-27 May: An aspiring composer questions his life choices on the eve of his 30th birthday in Jonathan Larson’s autobiographical rock musical. The Tony Award-winner tells the story of the sacrifices he made to achieve his big break in theatre. Set in 1990, this compelling story of personal discovery embraces the ideal of holding on to your dreams through life’s most difficult challenges. Containing 14 songs, 10 characters, three actors and a band, this play takes you on the journey that led to a Broadway blockbuster. Tue-Sat 7.45pm (except 9 May); Thur & Sat 3.15pm. Tickets £14.50-£18. www.parktheatre.co.uk. Park Theatre, Clifton Terrace, Finsbury Park, N4 3JP. T: 020-7870 6876. Off map. Station: Finsbury Park.
Fast-moving and farcical, this comedy was written by the French playwright Molière and first performed in 1668 in Paris. This new adaptation, by Sean Foley and Phil Porter, sees Griff Rhys Jones take the lead role as Harpagon, a stingy widower who is more concerned with money than he is with his children. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£87.50. www.garricktheatre.org. Garrick Stomp has used over Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, 30,000 brooms, 20,000 WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673. E7/8. bins, 10,000 drumsticks Station: Leicester Square. and 50,000 boxes
The Treatment
Set in a film studio in New York, this play follows the life of a young woman who has an urgent story to tell. But here, people are products, of matches The Mousetrap films mean money and sex sells. A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha And the rights to your life can be Christie’s long-running whodunnit. Please a dangerous commodity to exploit. This check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap. neighbourhood theatre is worth making a visit co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. to. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£39.50. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square. www.almeida.co.uk. Almeida Theatre, Almeida St, N1 1TA. T: 020-7359 4404. Off map. Station: Nell Gwynn Highbury & Islington. From 2 May: Nell Gwynn charts the rise of an Twelfth Night unlikely heroine, from her roots in Coal Yard Alley From 18 May: Twins Sebastian and Viola are to her success as Britain’s most celebrated actress, shipwrecked on Illyria, separated and believing and her hard-won place in the heart of the king. But at a time when women are second-class citizens, each other to be dead. Beside herself with grief, Viola disguises herself as a boy and goes into the can her charm and spirit protect her from the service of Duke Orsino. The duke, madly in love dangers of the court? And at what cost? Check for times. Tickets £5-£45. www.shakespearesglobe.com. with Countess Olivia, sends Viola to woo on his behalf. Please check for times. Tickets £5-£45. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars. Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 Our Ladies of Perpetual Succour 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars. From 9 May: Following sold-out seasons at Ugly Lies the Bone the National Theatre, Edinburgh Festival Fringe The European premiere of a hard-hitting play and a UK tour, this National Theatre of Scotland play from the creator of Billy Elliot is an uplifting story of six about the trauma of fighting on the frontline. Catholic choir girls from Oban let loose in Edinburgh Directed by Indhu Rubasingham – the artistic director of north London’s Tricycle Theatre – Ugly for a day. It’s funny, heartbreaking and rude. Please Lies the Bone is a topical drama about a soldier check for times. Tickets £19-£79. www.dukeofyorks theatre.co.uk. Duke of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s scarred from Afghanistan. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£50. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. Lane, WC2N 4BG. T: 0844-871 7627. E8. Station: Leicester Square. Lyttelton Theatre, National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
The Play That Goes Wrong
Hilarious slapstick comedy about a drama society staging a murder mystery. What could possibly go wrong? Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £22-£67.50. www.theplaythatgoes wrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
The Resistible Rise of Arturo Ui Chicago! It’s a city of jazz and gangsters, in a time of Prohibition and poverty. Among the murk of the Great Depression, there’s room for a small-time crook like Arturo Ui (Lenry Henry) to make a name for himself. Ui and his henchmen just want to look after you, to offer protection for workers, for jobs, for businesses. There’s nothing to fear, right? But a little bribery here, some harmless corruption there, and soon something much more dangerous takes hold… Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£40. www.donmarwarehouse.com. Donmar Warehouse, 41 Earlham St, WC2H 9LX. T: 0844-871 7624. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Whisper House To 27 May:A lighthouse stands on the remote East Coast of America during World War II. When Christopher’s father’s plane is shot down, he is sent to live there with an aunt he has never met and her mysterious Japanese housekeeper. Soon, he hears music through the walls. Is his imagination getting the better of him, or are the ghosts warning of real danger? Soon the whispers become something louder. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£39.50. www.theother palace.co.uk. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. T: 0844-264 2140. F7. Station: Victoria.
Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf? To 27 May: Starring Imelda Staunton (Gypsy, Sweeney Todd); Conleth Hill (Game of Thrones, The Producers); Luke Treadaway (The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time) and Imogen Poots in her West End debut. Martha has invited new professor Nick and his wife Honey to her home with George for after-party drinks. The young couple are drawn into George and Martha’s toxic games until the
NELL GWYNN © TRISTRAM KENTON
Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience
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‘BELIEVE THE HYPE’ N E W YO R K POST
THE MUSICAL MatildaTheMusical.com
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The Wipers Times To 13 May: Ian Hislop and Nick Newman’s stage adaptation of their award-winning BBC film tells the true and extraordinary story of the satirical newspaper created in the mud and mayhem of the Somme, interspersed with comic sketches and spoofs. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm & 7.30pm. Check for prices. www.arts theatrewestend.co.uk. Arts Theatre, 6-7 Great Newport St, WC2H 7JB. T: 020-7836 8463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Woman in Black Adapted from Susan Hill’s novel, this play follows a lawyer who visits a remote house after a woman’s death. Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm (not 23 May); Sat 4pm. Tickets £19.50-£60. www.thewomanin black.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Woyzeck From 13 May: It’s 1980s Berlin. The Cold War rages and the world sits at a crossroads between capitalism and communism. On the border between East and West, a young soldier (John Boyega) and the love of his life are desperately trying to build a better future for their child. But the cost of escaping poverty is high in this searing tale of the people society leaves behind (p. 44). Please check for times. Tickets £12-£60. www.old victheatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS Alchemy festival 19-29 May: An annual festival that showcases
the creativity and cultural connections between South Asia and the UK. Expect a programme of contemporary dance, art, music and literature from international and British artists. Please check for times and prices. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 0207960 4200. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Summer of Love Celebrate love at the Globe with a series of romantic performances, including this month’s Nell Gwynn and Twelfth Night (p. 50). Please check for times. Tickets £5-£45. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
OPERA Royal Opera House 12-29 May: Don Carlo. Bertrand de Billy conducts a cast led by Bryan Hymel and Krassimira Stoyanova in Nicholas Hytner’s acclaimed production of Verdi’s opera set in 16th-century Spain. Check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
DANCE
Cadogan Hall
Barbican 25-27 May: Zero Point. An engrossing sensory
performance inspired equally by the sacred and scientific, Zero Point fuses digital imagery produced by motion-sensing technology with meditative choreography. 7.45pm. Tickets £16-£30. www.barbican.org.uk. Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.
Royal Opera House The Royal Ballet Company’s home base. To 13 May: Mayerling. Adult drama meets electrifying choreography in Kenneth MacMillan’s masterful ballet – a devastating tale of extreme passion and desperate acts, inspired by true events. Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Sadler’s Wells 9-13 May: Northern Ballet. Northern Ballet returns
with this true story of the notorious lover Casanova. Kenneth Tindall’s first full-length ballet is a riot of intrigue and seduction. Based on playwright and author Ian Kelly’s 2008 biography of Casanova, Northern Ballet unmasks the man who still thrills us today. With a custom score from Kerry Muzzey, played live by Northern Ballet Sinfonia, and designs from the Tony and Olivier Award-winning Christopher Oram, prepare to be led into temptation. 16-20 May: Ghost Dances. First performed in 1981, Christopher Bruce’s eerie contemporary work is on a UK tour and will be performed at Sadler’s Wells as part of a triple bill (p. 48). 22-24 May: M!longa. Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui’s interpretation of tango is inspired by the late-night milonga scene found in the intimate bars of Buenos Aires. Please check for times and prices. www.sadlerswells.com. Sadler’s Wells, Rosebery Avenue, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.
Southbank Centre 6 May: Candoco: You and I Know.
Disabled and able-bodied dancers present a new duet by choreographer Arlene Phillips. Free. 4pm & 6pm. www.southbank centre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 0207928 3232. E8. Station: Waterloo.
CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Barbican 6 May: BBC Total Immersion Day:
Edgard Varèse. Six of Varèse’s finest scores for orchestra round off the BBC Symphony Orchestra’s exploration of the composer’s works. Check for times and prices. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.
Watch the pride of London in Disney’s long-running musical, The Lion King (p. 48)
Classical events hall. 5 May: London Chamber Orchestra. The Shaker movement, with its ethos of hard work and ecstatic worship, inspired John Adams’ early minimalist masterpiece Shaker Loops. Copland uses the Shaker hymn Simple Gifts in Appalachian Spring, his wartime ballet which heralded a new simplicity and directness of style. Simple Gifts also forms the starting point for Paul Edlin’s new work, which is performed by the young participants of the Music Junction scheme. The soloists in Shostakovich’s ebullient First Piano Concerto are also youthful: the hugely gifted teenagers Daniel Karitonov and Lucienne Renaudin-Vary. Please check for times and prices. www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. G6. Station: Sloane Square.
Royal Festival Hall 1 May: Philharmonia & Vivace Chorus: Brahms Requiem. One of the most popular choral works in the world, Brahms’ uplifting Requiem is the perfect May Day treat. It is paired with the world premiere of Cantus Maris by UK composer Francis Pott. Please check for times and prices. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.
St James’s Piccadilly This beautiful 1676 church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www.sjp.org.uk. St James’s Piccadilly, 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 020-7381 0441. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
St Martin-in-the-Fields Church Extensive programme of lunchtime and evening concerts. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields Church, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Wigmore Hall Concert hall with regular recitals. 27 May: Pavel Kolesnikov. The pianist plays Bach, Schubert and Schumann. Please check for times and prices. www.wigmore-hall.org.uk. 36 Wigmore St, W1U 2BP. T: 020-7935 2141. D6. Station: Bond Street.
CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD Cadogan Hall From 31 May: The Pasadena Roof Orchestra. Music from the 1920s and 1930s including hot dance tunes as played at Harlem’s Cotton Club. Please check for times and prices. www.cadogan hall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 0207730 4500. F6. Station: Sloane Square.
The Jazz Café This live music and club specialises in jazz and funk. 6 May: Matthew Bourne and Franck Vigroux Perform Kraftwerk’s Radioland Live. Please check for times and prices. www.thejazzcafelondon.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.
The O2 arena Enormous venue for live music in Greenwich, which attracts big-name acts. 1-3 May: Ed Sheeran. 25-26 May: Ariana Grande. 27-28 May: Iron Maiden. 31 May: KISS. Please check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
THE LION KING © DISNEY
evening climaxes in a moment of devastating truth-telling. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£90. www.whosafraidofvirginia woolf.co.uk. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
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THE LION KING © DISNEY
Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club
‘I DARE YOU NOT TO GET UP AND DANCE!’ SALLY BOAZMAN, BBC RADIO 2
London’s most famous jazz venue. 15-17 May: Monty Alexander Trio. Jamaican jazz piano virtuoso Monty Alexander’s career has spanned five decades. Please check for times and prices. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club, 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Royal Albert Hall 4 May: Magic at the Musicals. Magic Radio presents. 6 May: Film Music Gala. By the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra. 8 May: Laura Mvula. 10 May: Abbaphonic. By the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra. 11-14 May: Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone. Watch the film to a live score (p. 8). 17 May: Adam Ant. 18-19 May: The Beach Boys. Please check for times and prices. www.royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.
CHILDREN & FAMILIES The Girl and the Giraffe From 31 May: Giraffe isn’t feeling very well so Girl tries everything to make him feel better; putting on bandages and baking a tasty cake, but she has to learn that sometimes we need a different kind of plaster when we are actually sad. Beautiful puppetry and storytelling in a sensitive show about wellbeing and friendship. Suitable for three to six year olds. Please check for times. Tickets £9-£12.50. www.polkatheatre.com. Polka Theatre, 240 The Broadway, SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. Off map. Station: Wimbledon.
Visit BeautifulinLondon.co.uk Call 0845 200 7981
The Man Who Knows it All From 31 May: Is it possible to know everything? The man who knows it all seems to think it is. Two performers and a musician go on a quest in search of everything it is possible to know. Along the way it becomes evident that the questions and answers just keep coming, especially when the audience gets involved. Knowing everything is more difficult than we imagine. A tribute to not really knowing much about anything, an awkward and hapless man and his sidekick fail spectacularly again and again in front of a mercilessly curious audience. For four to 10 year olds. Please check for times. Tickets £12-£18. www.unicorntheatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560. E10. Station: London Bridge.
My First Ballet: Cinderella 6-20 May: Children’s show based on the classic
fairytale. Cinderella is tormented by her stepsisters and she can only dream of attending the prince’s glamorous ball. Jaw-dropping circus skills, soaring aerial performances and projections from the global rock and roll design team, Stufish. Please check for times. Tickets from £25. www.sadlers wells.com. Peacock Theatre, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. D8. Station: Holborn.
Red Riding Hood and the Wolf A new story about a kind and hungry wolf who strayed from the path and lost his friends. This wolf won’t gobble up your grandma or tell you lies. He’s a polite and gentle nice guy. Check for times. Adult £12.50; child £10.50. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel. www.wheretraveler.com 53
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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE
Shopping events
Swing over to Carnaby Carnaby Street in the 1960s was more like a catwalk than a shopping destination. Loud music played from brightly coloured shops and people would strut along the street in the latest fashions, from mod gear to mini skirts. The area attracted a new demographic – teenagers – who wanted to imitate the famous faces that shopped there, including model Twiggy and The Rolling Stones. In fact, this is where Jimi Hendrix bought his tongue-in-cheek retro military jacket, at the boutique I Was Lord Kitchener’s Valet. The Kinks have name-checked the street in Dedicated Follower of Fashion, it had its own show Carnaby Street: The Musical and featured in the hit film Austin Powers: International Man of Mystery. This month, Carnaby Street – and its 13 neighbouring streets – will be swinging once more at the Carnaby Style Night (4 May; 5pm-9pm). Join the party as many shops have longer opening hours, free drinks
and DJs playing. There is live music, too, in Moscot, the iconic eyewear store. Take advantage of the many offers: get your hair cut for free by Johnny’s Chop Shop, which is setting up a ‘salon’ on the streets; take a yoga class for men at triyoga and help yourself to food and drink at Fred Perry. There are exclusive offers across the stores: Illamasqua has a drag queen-inspired ‘Men in Make-up’ event; you can customise your trainers at Superga and stock up on limitededition T-shirts at David Naman. Go to the event wearing your sharpest outfit, as the best-dressed fashionistas will be rewarded with a goodie bag worth £200. If all that shopping makes you hungry, head to one of the many restaurants and bars that are offering discounts on the night. While you’re there, don’t miss nearby Kingly Court, a three-storey enclave of boutique bars and restaurants. Long may Carnaby Street swing! www.carnaby.co.uk
LONDON CRAFT WEEK London gets crafty this month, thanks to London Craft Week (3-7 May; above). The event showcases the craftsmanship of international and British creativity. Spread across the city, designers include Grayson Perry and Felicity Aylieff. Learn how everyday items are put together – these cover tailoring demonstrations, watchmaking classes and a talk by a wallpaper historian on prints from properties such as the House of Lords. www.londoncraftweek.com
CLERKENWELL DESIGN WEEK Clerkenwell is home to more architects per square mile than anywhere else in the world, so it comes as no surprise to find Clerkenwell Design Week (23-25 May), which celebrates independent design, is taking place in the area. Exhibitions include homegrown as well as international brands. Listen out for talks, too. www.clerkenwelldesignweek.com
CARNABY STREET © MARCIN PLONKA; LONDON CRAFT WEEK © MORGAN O’DONOVAN/MOD54LTD
Carnaby Street, which was once the epicentre of the Swinging Sixties, is throwing a fashion party – and you’re all invited, says Kohinoor Sahota
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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most shops are open 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, Sun 11am-4pm, and some open late on Thur evening. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81
MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS
Hamleys
Selfridges
Home to designer boutiques, antiques, art and jewellery, plus auction houses Sotheby’s and Bonhams. D6/E6/E7. Station: Bond Street.
One of the world’s biggest toy shops with gadgets, soft toys and demonstrations. Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
The finest products in beauty and fashion, including exclusive and limited-edition products. Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.
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A first-class shopping destination located in a smart and impressive development in the Docklands. Off map. Station: Canary Wharf.
Carnaby Street Once the domain for 1960s mods and rockers, these days the Carnaby area appeals to the fashionable set, with sports-inspired stores and edgy designers (p. 54). D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Covent Garden This former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular centre for arts, crafts and special interest shops and stalls. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Hatton Garden This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.
Jermyn Street & St James’s Some of the oldest specialist menswear shops in London are found in this area, including hatters and shirtmakers. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
King’s Road Once famous for upmarket and alternative fashion, it still attracts a stylish crowd. Peter Jones is good for homeware and Duke of York Square has stylish shops and a food market. G4. Station: Sloane Square.
Oxford Street Europe’s busiest shopping street has major department stores including Selfridges and John Lewis, plus popular high-street chains. D6/D7. Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch/ Tottenham Court Road.
Regent Street Originally designed by John Nash, this prestigious area includes Apple, Liberty, Swarovski, the first British Ferrari shop and Burberry. D6/D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus/Piccadilly Circus.
Savile Row One of London’s most famous areas for tailoring is in upmarket Mayfair. Find bespoke tailors including Anderson & Sheppard, Gieves & Hawkes, Hardy and Kilgour. E7. Station: Green Park.
Seven Dials In the heart of quirky Covent Garden are seven streets full of independent boutiques, heritage brands and vintage stores. www.sevendials.co.uk. D8. Station: Covent Garden. IMAGE COURTESY OF GREENWICH URBAN FETE
CARNABY STREET © MARCIN PLONKA; LONDON CRAFT WEEK © MORGAN O’DONOVAN/MOD54LTD
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MAJOR STORES Fenwick Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed; Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Fortnum & Mason This British institution is famed for its food hall. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845-300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Edwardian food and meat halls, men’s, women’s and children’s fashion departments and restaurants and bars. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am- 6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
House of Fraser Fashion, beauty, homeware and electrical goods. Mon-Fri 9.30am-10pm; Sun noon-6.30pm. www.houseoffraser.com. 318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF. T: 0844-800 3752. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
John Lewis Find designer fashion labels, homeware and electrical goods at this trusted department store. Mon-Wed & Fri 9.30am-8pm; Thur 9.30am9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX. T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Marks & Spencer Reliable source for lingerie and food, as well as many fashion collections (multiple locations around London). Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.marksandspencer.com. 458 Oxford St, W1C 1AP. T: 020-7935 7954. D6. Station: Marble Arch.
Liberty The epitome of heritage combined with cutting-edge design and the brand’s famous prints. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty.co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
LUXURY ARCADES Burlington Arcade Running from Burlington Gardens to Piccadilly, this Regency arcade contains specialist shops. Each morning it opens with a gate ceremony. www.burlington-arcade.co.uk. Burlington Arcade, W1J 0QJ. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Leadenhall Market A grand Victorian covered market in the heart of the city, bustling with boutiques. www.cityoflondon. gov.uk. Leadenhall Market, Gracechurch St, EC3V 1LR. T: 020-7621 0709. D11. Station: Monument.
MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS Bicester Village Find discount designer clothes at this haven in Oxfordshire. Mon-Wed & Fri 9am-9pm; Thur & Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.bicestervillage.com. Bicester Village, Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major hotels.
Westfield London This mall has more than 300 shops, from high-street names to high-end fashion labels. www.westfield. com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.
Festival fever Greenwich Peninsula, near The O2 arena and Cutty Sark, is hosting a free festival, Urban Village Fete (21 May; p. 8). Take your pick from designer stalls, street-food vendors, art and design workshops and talks hosted by BBC Radio London. DJ Gilles Peterson will be spinning records all day, and there is a chance for people of all ages to take a DJ class. Gateway Pavilion, Peninsula Square, Greenwich Peninsula, SE10 0SQ. www.weare urbanvillage.co.uk. Off map. Station: North Greenwich www.wheretraveler.com 55
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Ditch the ‘I love London’ OT-shirts N D and C visit We Built This City for a stylish souvenir. London’s top designers, ET R Eincluding T Kristjana S Williams, Cecily S N O BRUT RD STREET L I F F Ohave Vessey and Will CClarke, created COACH & ES H O R Snecklaces, items such as artwork, YARD mugs and cushions. Look out for ORD ST C L I F Ffrom eccentric products, London’s rainwater to a brick vase (above), or GRAFTON ST take part in an in-store craft workshop. 56b Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. www.webuilt-thiscity.com H AY H I L L
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Murdock London is home to a traditional barbershop for men with grooming services, from beard trims to wet shaves. It also includes a shop selling high-end styling products, including skincare goods, colognes and shaving kits. 18 Monmouth St, WC2H 9HB. T: 020-3393 7946. www.murdocklondon.com
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Links of London
Massive mall with 270 shops. Includes a cinema and a casino. www.westfield.com/stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Map inset. Station: Stratford.
Jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.
FASHION
Jewellery, including charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Alexander McQueen An absolute must for fashion followers, this flagship boutique has ready-to-wear items and the label’s signature skull scarves. The Duchess of Cornwall chose its creative director to design her wedding dress (menswear branch also in W1). www.alexander mcqueen.co.uk. 4-5 Old Bond St, W1S 4PD. T: 020-7355 0088. E7. Station: Green Park.
Banana Republic UK flagship offering a full range of men’s and womenswear (multiple locations around London). www.bananarepublic.eu. 224 Regent St, W1B 3BR. T: 020-7758 3550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Burberry Find the full Burberry London and Prorsum collections featuring clothing for men, women, children and babies, including a winning mix of classic and funky raincoats, separates and accessories (multiple locations around London). www.burberry.com. 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB. T: 020-7806 8904. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Hackett For those who hanker after the British gentlemanat-leisure look, this store is hard to beat. Find polos, sporting jackets and cords, suiting and plenty of accessories (multiple locations around London). www.hackett.com. 193-197 Regent St, W1B 4LY. T: 020-7494 4917. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Juicy Couture Clothing, jewellery and accessories for women, including contemporary casualwear. www.juicy couture.com. 198 Regent St, W1B 5TP. T: 0207734 2413. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
River Island Stylish, affordable fashion for men, women and children. Look out for the Style Studio, a personal shopper lounge with sofas and a bar. www.riverisland.com. 473 Oxford St, W1C 3AU. T: 0344-334 0506. D5. Station: Marble Arch. WALLACE SEWELL ANNIVERSARY CUSHION COURTESY OF LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM SHOP
Tumi
Westfield Stratford City
Stella McCartney With feminine clothes and accessories, this boutique brings some chic to this Mayfair side street (multiple locations around London). www.stellamccartney.co.uk. 30 Bruton St, W1J 6QR. T: 020-7518 3100. E6. Station: Green Park.
Topshop London’s unrivalled affordable clothing store offers fashion forward pieces. Find mini and vintage ranges, plus personal shopping (multiple locations around London). www.top shop.com. 36-38 Oxford Circus, W1W 8LG. T: 0844-848 7487. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
JEWELLERY & WATCHES Harry Winston The king of diamond jewellery for more than 80 years in London. Discover the beautifully designed gems loved by international royalty and Hollywood’s elite. www.harrywinston.com. 171 New Bond St, W1. T: 020-7907 8800. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Pandora
Tiffany & Co. This world-renowned jeweller displays exquisite designer gems (multiple locations around London). www.tiffany.com. The Courtyard, Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LQ. T: 020-7409 2790. D10. Station: Bank.
Wempe Grand, spacious setting for this luxury German family business, established in 1878. Large selection of jewellery and fine watches. www.wempe.com. 43-44 New Bond St, W1S 2SA. T: 0207493 2299. E6. Station: Bond Street.
KIDS’ STORES
Brand leaders in prestige luggage, business cases and accessories. Revolutionary fabrics with practical designs make a Tumi bag great for business travellers (multiple locations around London). www.tumi.com. 211 Regent St, W1B 4NF. T: 020-7493 4138. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
SPECIALIST STORES Buckingham Palace Shop A wide range of royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created by Alex Monroe. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royalcollectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.
The Disney Store The Oxford Street branch has received a sprinkle of magic, transforming it into one of the largest concept stores in Europe packed with high-tech interactive entertainment. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm (branches also in WC2 and W12). www.disneystore.co.uk. 350-352 Oxford St, W1C 1JH. T: 020-7491 9136. D6. Station: Bond Street.
Iconic department store Harrods once sold a luxury yacht, complete with a ‘beach’ club and a gym
LEGO Store LEGO merchandise, including a replica of Big Ben made from bricks. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. www.lego.com/en-gb/stores. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
John Bell & Croyden
Sweet treats, including London-inspired chocolate souvenirs. Mon-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun noon-6pm. www.mmsworld.com. 1 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7025 7171. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
This wellbeing emporium is more than 200 years old and is the official pharmacy to the Queen. Offers emergency prescriptions and vaccinations. www.johnbellcroyden.co.uk. Check for opening times. 50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2AU. T: 020-7935 5555. D6. Station: Bond Street.
The Nickelodeon Store
London Glassblowing
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Products inspired by the TV channel’s shows. Mon-Fri 10am-10pm; Sat 10am-11pm; Sun noon-6pm. 1 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
LEATHER & LUGGAGE Anya Hindmarch
Home to wonderful jewellery, decorations, vases, ornaments and unusual items. You can pick up a dazzling souvenir here, and try out a glassblowing session, too. www.londonglassblowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.
Prestat
Luxurious leather goods ranging from wallets to sequinned evening bags (multiple locations). www.anyahindmarch.com. 118 New Bond St, W1S 1EW. T: 020-7493 1628. E7. Station: Bond Street.
One of London’s oldest chocolate shops sells hot chocolate, truffles and more in this glorious arcade. Please check for times. www.prestat.co.uk. 14 Princes Arcade, SW1Y 6DS. T: 020-8961 8555. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
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Twinings
The UK flagship of the Parisian luxury luggage and handbag brand. www.moynat.com. 112 Mount St, W1K 2TU. T: 020-7495 3885. E6. Station: Bond Street/Green Park.
This is one of the capital’s oldest shops – it has been trading from 1706 – and is full of a variety of teas and infusions. Enjoy a free Tea Tasting session. Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.
We Built This City Quirky souvenir shop where classic items are given a twist. Look out for illustrations of London icons and maps (p. 56). Mon-Wed 10am-7pm; Thur-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.webuilt thiscity.co.uk. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
The Whisky Exchange Specialist retailer of fine whiskies and spirits, with more than 5,000 whiskies from around the world. www.thewhiskyexchange.com. 2 Bedford St, WC2E 9HH. T: 020-7403 8688. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Pick up Tube-inspired souvenirs from the London Transport Museum shop (p. 40) www.wheretraveler.com 57
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which is a landmark in its own right. The leading department store contains men’s and women’s fashions, as well as its world-famous prints that you can find in the haberdashery department, on its scarves and adorning stationery. Regent St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. www.libertylondon.com
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FALL IN LOVE , WITH LONDON S FINEST DIAMONDS Visit Hatton Garden and fall in love with London’s finest collection of jewellery and diamonds Nestled in the heart of Holborn and just a short taxi ride from London’s West End, you’ll find the historical area of Hatton Garden. Here you’ll discover one of London’s hidden gems; a place steeped in history and romance since Queen Elizabeth I gifted a house and garden in the grounds of Ely Palace to a handsome courtier in 1576. By 1870, Hatton Garden had established an international reputation as London’s jewellery quarter and the UK’s centre for diamonds. As the trend for more extravagant and expensive items of jewellery grew, the demand for hand-made fine jewellery and exquisite diamonds increased. The specialist jewellers in Hatton Garden became famous for trading diamonds, often shipping rare stones around the world as jewellery became a symbol of not only wealth
and stature, but of love and affection. Today, the romance lives on and the Hatton Garden Jewellery Group is a collection of eight stores in Hatton Garden near Farringdon. Since the group’s flagship store Beverley Hills Jewellers opened in 1987, the family-owned brand has carved out a reputation for leading the local market in truly British jewellery design including bespoke diamond pieces, coloured gemstones and remodelling of existing jewellery. So if you’re looking to purchase a token of your love and affection for someone special in your life then look to one of Hatton Garden Jewellery Group’s stores to find your desired piece! For more information, please ask your Concierge for directions and visit any of our stores or call T: 020-7405 4847 and ask to speak to the group’s General Manager, Carolyn Jackson.
VISITORS OFFERED 30% DISCOUNT OFF RRP (excluding pre-owned and sale goods)
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The Bloomsbury Set – which included the writers Virginia Woolf and EM Forster – probably never expected they would inspire perfume. Yet Jo Malone has created The Bloomsbury Set collection with fragrances for men and women, from leather and artemisia to garden lilies. 101 Regent St, W1B 4EZ. T: 0370-192 5021. www.jomalone.co.uk
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Red soles at the bottom of the shoes can only mean one thing: Christian Louboutin. The French designer’s shoes S DN have graced the feet of Kylie Minogue, L G L E CROMW Kate Moss and Emma Watson. Live out your footwear fantasies at this shop, which also sells leather accessories. 23 Motcomb St, SW1X 8LB. T: 0843-227 4322. www.eu.christianlouboutin.com
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DINING | THE GUIDE
Left: KinoVino All other images: Gingerline
Join the club Curious to sample the latest dining craze? Then book a ticket to one of the capital’s many supper clubs. Introduced to the UK in the 1930s as an alternative to traditional restaurants, these ticketed dining events in unique settings are enjoying a revival, as London’s appetite for more immersive and intimate food experiences grows. Since 2010, Gingerline has led the way in secret-location-feasting in London. The latest Chambers of Flavour v2.0 invites guests to enter ‘The Machine’ for a highly theatrical feast, where each dish takes you to another dimension. Expect five ‘parallel dining realities’ containing a different tastebud-tingling course. But be warned, this is not for the meek or cautious of palate – the menu stays secret and you will be immersed in art and performance while you dine. Feeling brave? Book ahead as this event regularly sells out (check for dates; www.chambersofflavour.co.uk). Forget popcorn and accompany a movie with a gourmet dinner inspired by the film
you’re watching. Each month, cinema supperclub KinoVino does just that in east London, bringing together chefs and arthouse films. Last month, it was all about Iran, as diners enjoyed a Persian feast with a screening of Iranian drama Women without Men. This month the KinoVino crew is celebrating all things Italian with the 2009 film I Am Love followed by a delicious home-made Italian meal prepared by Rome-based food writer and chef Rachel Roddy (15 May; www.kinovino.org).
Most people who visit London use the Tube to get around, but how many can say they’ve dined in one of its trains? At The Underground Supper Club, you’ll take a seat inside a decommissioned 1967 Underground train carriage for a silver-service four-course dinner by a leading chef, such as Shiann Stuiver from Michelin-starred Pollen Street Social. The carriage doesn’t move, so there’s no danger of making a mess, and there is the option of booking a table for four or a VIP booth if you don’t fancy sitting next to strangers (18-20 & 25-27 May; www.basementgalley.com). Food meets art at The Gramounce, a supper club inside a gallery. Set up by artists to help fund their craft while giving diners a night they’ll never forget, these unusual events see guests enjoy dishes inspired by artworks on display – expect complex flavours such as salsify with confit egg yolk, mushroom meatballs and truffle oil, or venison with horseradish cream, chocolate gravy, black potatoes and pickled cherry (www.thegramounce.com).
KINOVINO © TANIA NAIDEN; GINGERLINE IMAGES © EMMA NATHAN
In London, dining out is not just restricted to traditional restaurants. Sam Rogg discovers the supper club craze that is taking over the capital…
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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch) D (dinner). Prices are per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80 +. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to map coordinates (p. 80-81)
AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH) Avenue Contemporary American dishes and wines in a Manhattan-style setting. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat brunch & D; Sun brunch only. www.avenuerestaurant.co.uk. 7-9 St James’s St, SW1A 1EE. T: 020-7321 2111. E7. Station: Green Park.
Chiltern Firehouse This hip hotel restaurant in an old fire station serves US-style dishes with a creative twist. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chilternfirehouse.com. 1 Chiltern St, W1U 7PA. T: 020-7073 7676. D6. Station: Baker Street.
The Colony Grill Room The wood-panelled dining room evokes the 1920s. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.colonygrillroom.com. The Beaumont, 8 Balderton St, W1K 6TN. T: 020-7499 9499. D6. Station: Bond Street.
Gaucho A great place for succulent Argentine steaks, with a wine bar, supper lounge and live entertainment. ££££. Daily L & D (and branches). www.gaucho restaurants.co.uk. 25 Swallow St, W1B 4QR. T: 020-7734 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Goodman Premium New York steakhouse with dry-aged US and British beef, plus dishes including lobster tail with garlic butter. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.good manrestaurants.com. 26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.
STK London
Cheneston’s
Dine on British and American prime steaks, with DJs playing nightly. ££££. Daily D. www.stkhouse. com. ME London Hotel, 336 Strand, WC2R 1HA. T: 020-7395 3450. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Intimate restaurant serving tasty British in a classic dining room. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestone hotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
JW Steakhouse Top-quality steakhouse offering dry-aged American USDA prime beef with a variety of sides, starters and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
BRITISH (MODERN)
City Social Jason Atherton’s award-winning restaurant and bar boasts a creative menu plus stunning views of the city and beyond. £££. Mon-Fri L & D, Sat D. www.citysociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal
Contemporary British cuisine matches the fantastic views at this slick restaurant on The Shard’s 32nd floor – reservations recommended. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge.
This is the first London restaurant for the superchef, known for his creative cuisine, offering a menu influenced by historic British gastronomy. ££££. Daily L & D; booking essential. www.dinner byheston.com. Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7201 3833. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
Butlers Restaurant
Fera at Claridge’s
Aqua Shard
Enjoy top English cuisine in an elegent Mayfair restaurant, recommended for its Dover sole. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chesterfieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.
Creative British dishes from local, organic dishes are served in a beautiful Art Deco restaurant. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges.co.uk/fera. Claridge’s Hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Hard Rock Cafe London’s original burger joint is more than 40 years old – it has plenty of rock memorabilia, a funky décor and a fun atmosphere. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Heliot Steak House Hippodrome Casino’s restaurant, over the main gaming floor, serves British classics and USDA beef. £££. Daily L & D. www.hippodromecasino.com. Leicester Square, 42-43 Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Lima Michelin-starred contemporary Peruvian cuisine. £££. Tue-Sun L; Daily D. www.limalondon.com. 31 Rathbone Place, W1T 1JH. T: 020-3002 2640. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Oblix Sophisticated New York-style rotisserie/grill with stunning views from the 32nd floor of The Shard. £££. Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Planet Hollywood
BALA BAYA © JEAN CAZALS
KINOVINO © TANIA NAIDEN; GINGERLINE IMAGES © EMMA NATHAN
FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
This huge London branch has burgers, pizzas and cocktails, plus movie memorabilia. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywood london.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 0207287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Rainforest Cafe Busy all-day dining in a mock rainforest setting with animatronic animals and a familyfriendly menu. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.therain forestcafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7EU. T: 020-7434 3111. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Mediterranean magic Swap the streets of Southwark for those of Tel Aviv at Bala Baya, a new Israeli restaurant that’s open from breakfast until cocktail hour. The dinner menu is made up of sharing plates, giving you the chance to sample anything from ox to sharon fruit salsa. Highlights include salmon and toasted sesame dip tahini, and yellow tail snapper with arak (above). The ground floor, with its exposed piping, bright lights and aluminium bar, takes industrial chic to the extreme but the mezzanine is cosy, with palms under an exposed railway arch. Service is fast and friendly. Note that there are few options for vegetarians or those with other dietary requirements. Arch 25, Old Union Yard Arches, 229 Union St, SE1 0LR. T: 020-8001 7015. www.balabaya.co.uk. E9. Station: Southwark/London Bridge www.wheretraveler.com 63
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DINING Great Court Restaurant Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the museum’s iconic Reading Room. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.british museum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.
Holborn Dining Room Smart brasserie adjoining the Rosewood hotel serving classic British dishes with a twist. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.holborndiningroom.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8633. D8. Station: Holborn.
Indigo All-day restaurant serves British dishes that are entirely gluten and dairy-free. ££-£££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych hotel, 1 Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 1000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Rabbit Locally sourced ingredients for a meat-rich menu. £££. Mon D; Tue-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.rabbitrestaurant.com. 172 King’s Rd, SW3 4UP. T: 0203750 0172. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.
Rex Whistler Restaurant Dine on dishes such as Gressingham duck breast in a dining room with a whimsical 100-year-old mural. ££. Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.
St Pancras Grand British brasserie-style dishes in an ornate Searcys’ dining room. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys. co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
BRITISH (TRADITIONAL) Café in the Crypt Underneath this landmark Palladian church, this vaulted café serves homely English dishes at reasonable prices. £. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields, corner of Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.
Mews of Mayfair Four-floored 18th-century mews house with a brasserie, lounge and cocktail bar, plus a cobbled courtyard and art gallery. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.mewsofmayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, New Bond St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.
The Ritz Restaurant Enjoy classic British dishes in one of London’s prettiest dining rooms, with top-notch service. Men should wear a jacket and tie. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.theritzlondon.com. The Ritz, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.
Rules Long-established plush restaurant where the likes of Charles Dickens ate, with hearty dishes such as rump steak and rib of beef. ££££. Daily L & D. www.rules.co.uk. 35 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7LB. T: 020-7836 5314. E8. Covent Garden.
Serpentine Bar & Kitchen Enjoy seasonal classics such as fish and chips and wood-fired pizzas on a relaxing terrace overlooking the Serpentine lake. £. Daily B & L. www.benugo.com/restaurants/serpentine-barkitchen. Serpentine Rd, Hyde Park, W2 2UH. T: 020-7706 8114. E5. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Sophie’s Steakhouse & Bar In this bar-restaurant in Theatreland, try the excellent roast beef, steaks and terrine boards, plus pre- and post-theatre menus. ££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteakhouse.co.uk. 29-31 Wellington St, WC2E 7DB (and Chelsea branch). T: 020-7836 8836. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
The Wolseley The magnificent dining room sets the scene for this brasserie, which is popular for its breakfast. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thewolseley.com. 160 Piccadilly, W1J 9EB. T: 020-7499 6996. E7. Station: Green Park.
CHINESE Bright Courtyard Club Excellent Cantonese and Shanghai dishes, including dim sum and roast duck, in a sleek, sophisticated setting. £££. Daily L & D. www.brightcourtyard. co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street.
Chai Wu Located on the fifth floor of Harrods, this contemporary restaurant serves dishes such as Wagyu beef, Alaskan king crab and Chilean sea bass. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu.co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
Hakkasan Michelin-starred restaurant with stunning décor, serving a mix of traditional and fusion dishes such as Peking duck with caviar. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat last orders 12.30am. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Kai Mayfair Superior Michelin-starred cuisine served in an elegant setting, with dishes such as Kagoshima Wagyu beef, and Nanyang chilli lobster. Highly recommened. ££££. Daily L & D. www.kaimayfair. co.uk. 65 South Audley St, W1K 2QU. T: 020-7493 8988. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Min Jiang Take in glorious views across Kensington Gardens while enjoying superb Sichuan cuisine, dim sum and spicy seafood dishes. ££££. Daily L & D. www.minjiang.co.uk. Royal Garden Hotel, Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7361 1988. F3. Station: High Street Kensington.
Ping Pong Tasty dim sum, plus rice dishes, won ton and spring rolls, with a lively atmosphere. £-£££. Daily L & D. www.pingpongdimsum.com. 45 Great Marlborough St, W1F 7JL (and branches). T: 020-7851 6969. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
You might not think of a department store as the place to experience pan-Asian cuisine, but nestled in Debenhams on Oxford Street is the contemporary restaurant Chi Kitchen (p. 69), which is raising the bar with its seriously stylish and delicious food. Begin with a glass of bubbly from the Champagne bar before feasting on dishes influenced by Thai, Chinese, Malaysian, Japanese, Vietnamese and Korean cuisine. If you’re looking to impress, order the sashimi set to start and watch as your plate is cloaked in a cloud of dry ice. If you want to share, try the popcorn shrimp, roasted Wagyu beef puffs and dragon prawn tempura, or dive straight into stir-fried mains of char keow teow (flat Malaysian noodles) or rice vermicelli topped with vegetables and your choice of meat or seafood.
Royal China Club This huge Cantonese restaurant is especially popular for its dim sum, which is served every lunchtime, plus crispy aromatic duck. ££. Daily L & D. www.royalchinagroup.co.uk. 24-26 Baker St, W1U 3BZ (and branches). T: 020-7487 4688. D6. Station: Baker Street.
Yauatcha Alan Yau’s award-winning Soho restaurant offers excellent dim sum, plus its famous macarons. £££. Daily L & D. www.yauatcha.com. 15-17 Broadwick St, W1F 0DL. T: 020-7494 8888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
IMAGE COURTESY OF CHI KITCHEN
A taste of the Orient
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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated Indian Grill offers intense flavours with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting. Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: amaya@realindianfood.com Private dining room seats 14
The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food. Open for lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday. Saturday Brunch with live jazz music. 73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: chutneymary@realindianfood.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16
Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: veeraswamy@realindianfood.com Private dining room seats 24
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DINING
For the quintessential English experience, stop for an afternoon tea with a twist
London Shell Co
1 Lombard Street Mouthwatering selection of hearty, modern cooking in this brasserie, a former bank, with a huge glass dome. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.
The Delaunay Situated in Theatreland, this venue’s interior and menu are inspired by central Europe’s grand cafés. Excellent breakfasts and fish dishes. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.thedelaunay.com. 55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB. T: 020-7499 8558. E8. Station: Temple.
Galvin at Windows Michelin-starred restaurant serving modern haute cuisine, with excellent views. Booking essential; smart dress. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvinatwindows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
The Ivy
LANCASTER LONDON To celebrate the prestigious Chelsea Flower Show, this luxurious, centrally located hotel is offering a Flower Afternoon Tea (above) that’s almost too pretty to eat. Begin with traditional savouries such as home-smoked salmon roses on rye bread and sunflower-seeded choux buns with wild mushroom, truffle oil and cream cheese. Then feast on a beautiful botanical arrangement of sweet delights, including creamy lavender chocolate mousse cake, white chocolate macarons topped with crystalised violets, and a tangy lime and elderflower trifle with edible flowers. 3-31 May. Lancaster Terrace, W2 2TY. T: 020-7551 6000. www.lancasterlondon.com
BARBICAN Home to the second-biggest conservatory in London, the Barbican’s 23,000 sq ft tropical sanctuary (complete with exotic fish and more than 1,500 plants) is the perfect place for afternoon tea. Opt for the Grand Garden selection, which comes with a glass of Champagne, delicate finger sandwiches, freshly baked scones and assorted pastries and desserts. Only available on Sundays, it’s one of London’s best-kept secrets for a classic afternoon tea. Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. www.barbican.org.uk
CAFÉ PRESTAT Unwind after a shopping spree in fashionable Chelsea with homemade cakes and pastries at Café Prestat, just off Sloane Square. Created by the chocolatier to the Queen, Café Prestat is a fun and informal spot with world-famous truffles (filled with a love potion, according to the children’s author Roald Dahl). 186 Pavilion Rd, SW3 2BF. T: 020-7730 7715. www.prestat.co.uk
A firm favourite on London’s dining scene, and loved by celebrities, this stylish restaurant is good for a pre- or post-theatre dinner. £££-££££. Daily L & D (last orders midnight). www.the-ivy.co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ. T: 020-7836 4751. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
OXO Tower Elegant restaurant on the River Thames with stunning views and excellent food – it is a perfect choice for special occasions. There is less formal dining in the brasserie, where you can hear live music. ££££. Daily L & D. www.oxotower.co.uk. Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House St, South Bank, SE1 9PH. T: 020-7803 3888. E9. Station: Waterloo.
Dine on a five-course menu on a canal boat, with delicacies such as cured Dorset char with egg yolk confit. Diners are encouraged to share tables, evoking a dinner party ambience. £££. Wed-Fri L & D. www.londonshellco.com. Sheldon Square, W2 6EP. T: 07818-666 005. Off map. Station: Paddington.
Poppie’s Traditional fish and chip shop decorated with vintage memorabilia, offering table service or takeaway. £. Daily L & D. www.poppiesfish andchips.co.uk. 55 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW. T: 020-7734 4845. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Sea Shell Enjoy classic fish and chips, or try dishes such as goujons of lemon sole and pan-friend king scallops. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.seashellrestaurant.co.uk. 49-51 Lisson Grove, NW1 6UH. T: 020-7224 9000. C5. Station: Marylebone.
FRENCH Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester Exquisite food, attentive service and a diving setting from this three Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 020-7629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Aubaine Cosmopolitan bistro with all-day dining, serving dishes such as moules marinière with frites. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.aubaine.co.uk. 260-262 Brompton Rd, SW3 2AS (and branches). T: 020-7052 0100. F5. Station: South Kensington.
London has more Michelin-starred restaurants than anywhere else in the world
Skylon Glamorous dining with beautiful river views. Try dishes such as spiced duck breast with heritage beetroot. ££££. Daily L & D. www.skylon-restaurant.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7654 7800. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Ting Located on level 35 of The Shard, this superb restaurant serves European dishes with an Asian influence, plus panoramic views. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge.
FISH AND SEAFOOD Angler Michelin-starred seafood using seasonal and local produce, such as Dorset crab and Newlyn cod. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.anglerrestaurant.com. South Place Hotel, 3 South Place, EC2M 2AF. T: 020-3215 1260. D10. Station: Moorgate.
J Sheekey Chic seafood restaurant loved by the rich and famous for more than a century. Top-quality dishes, such as lobster thermidor, plus a stylish oyster and Champagne bar. ££££. Daily L & D. www.j-sheekey. co.uk. 28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Blanchette
Lively, rustic bistro serving simple and inventive French food. Excellent charcuterie plates, plus dishes such as confit duck leg. ££. Daily L & D. www.blanchettsoho.co.uk. 9 D’Arblay St, W1F 8DR. T: 020-7439 8100. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Bel Canto A flamboyant, fun evening out where waiters (music students) perform opera arias while you dine, on dishes such as pan-fried beef fillet. £££. Wed-Sat D. www.belcantolondon.co.uk. Corus Hotel Hyde Park, 1 Lancaster Gate, W2 3LG. T: 020-7262 1678. E4. Station: Lancaster Gate.
Brasserie Joël This excellent French brasserie serves classics such as tuna tartare and beef bourguignon, plus steaks. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; Daily D. www.brasseriejoel.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.
Brasserie Zédel Bustling French brasserie and bar in a highceilinged dining room, with excellent value prix fixe menus. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasserie zedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 0207734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Céleste Michelin-starred French cuisine in an elegant dining room. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com. The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
FLOWER AFTERNOON TEA COURTESY OF LANCASTER LONDON
Time for tea
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN
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FLOWER AFTERNOON TEA COURTESY OF LANCASTER LONDON
Clos Maggiore Exquisite dining room and verdant courtyard, with an excellent wine list and dishes such as roast Japanese Wagyu beef. £££. Daily L & D. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Club Gascon
ENJOY THE THALI AT
REAL INDIAN FOOD
Imaginative Michelin-starred cuisine from southwest France, and an award-winning wine list. £££££££. Tue-Fri L; Tue-Sat D. www.clubgascon.com. 57 West Smithfield, EC1A 9DS. T: 020-7600 6144. D9. Station: Farringdon.
Galvin Bistrot de Luxe The highly regarded Galvin brothers’ classic Parisian-style bistro has superb service and elegant décor. ££££. Daily L & D. www.galvin restaurants.com. 66 Baker St, W1U 7DJ. T: 020-7935 4007. D6. Station: Baker Street.
Les 110 de Taillevent Contemporary French dining with dishes such as roasted lobster tail with cauliflower purée. £££. Daily L & D. www.les-110-taillevent-london.com. 16 Cavendish Square, W1G 9DD. T: 020-3141 6016. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
L’Escargot Established in 1927, this well-loved and elegant establishment is London’s oldest French restaurant. ££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.les cargot.co.uk. 48 Greek St, W1D 4EF. T: 020-7439 7474. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Le Pont de la Tour
BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD
CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST
M ASA LA ZO N E .COM
Stunning riverside restaurant serving classic French dishes in a 19th-century former tea warehouse, with a terrace. £££. Daily L & D. www.lepont delatour.co.uk. 36d Shad Thames, SE1 2YE. T: 020-7403 8403. E11. Station: London Bridge.
Sketch With five restaurants and bars under one roof, the Gallery is the main restaurant, a stylish gastro brasserie adorned with artwork by David Shrigley. It also does a great afternoon tea. ££££. Daily L & D. www.sketch.uk.com. 9 Conduit St, W1S 2XG. T: 020-7659 4500. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
GASTROPUBS The Eagle At one of London’s first gastropubs, enjoy superior dishes such as roast pork belly and grilled scallops. ££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.theeagle farringdon.co.uk. 159 Farringdon Rd, EC1R 3AL. T: 020-7837 1353. D9. Station: Farringdon.
Fox & Anchor A traditional British pub with cosy corners and a seasonal menu. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.foxand anchor.com. 115 Charterhouse Square, EC1M 6AA. T: 020-7250 1300. D9. Station: Barbican.
Located opposite Buckingham Palace Open daily for lunch, dinner and evening cocktails
The Grazing Goat All-day dining in the bright dining room, with seasonal produce and dishes such as braised venison fillet with port jus. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thegrazinggoat.co.uk. 6 New Quebec St, W1H 7RQ. T: 020-7724 7243. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
The Thomas Cubitt Classic dining room above a traditional bar, serving top-quality British produce. Try the beef sirloin Sunday roast. £££. Daily L & D. www.thethomas cubitt.co.uk. 44 Elizabeth St, SW1W 9PA. T: 020-7730 6060. G6. Station: Victoria.
Private Events for up to 300 guests Call 020 7958 7000 43 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0PP www.bbarlondon.com
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DINING The Wells
Little India
This bright and airy pub near leafy Hampstead Heath serves top-quality, seasonal British cuisine in a friendly, sophisticated environment. ££. Daily L & D. www.thewellshampstead.co.uk. 30 Well Walk, NW3 1BX. T: 020-7794 3785. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
This cosy establishment near the Royal Albert Hall specialises in dishes from Bengal, including fish bhuna. ££. Daily L & D. www.littleindialondon.com. 32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7584 3476. F4. Station: Gloucester Road.
INDIAN Amaya The Michelin-starred cuisine here is full of exotic twists on Indian dishes, with an open-grill kitchen. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.
Baluchi at the Lalit London Majestic Indian restaurant in the five-star boutique hotel housed within a Grade II- listed Victorian building. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.the lalit.com. 181 Tooley St, SW1 2JR. T: 020-3765 0000. E11. Station: London Bridge.
Benares Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar creates modern Indian cuisine in this refined restaurant. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun D. www.benaresrestaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.
Bombay Palace The cuisine at this well-established restaurant is a cut above the rest. Try the pan-seared scallops with chilli chutney. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.bombaypalace.co.uk. 50 Connaught St, W2 2AA. T: 020-7723 8855. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
Chor Bizarre This popular restaurant, which is eclectically furnished, specialises in cuisine from north India. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.chorbizarre.com. 16 Albermarle St, W1S 4HW. T: 020-7629 9802. E7. Station: Green Park.
Masala Zone In this chain of vibrant restaurants, enjoy greatvalue Indian street food, plus the grand thali. £. Daily L & D (and branches). www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER. T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Memories of India Try authentic flavours from north India, with specialities including spiced lamb. ££. Daily L & D. www.memoriesofindia.com. 18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450. G4. Station: Gloucester Road.
Mint Leaf Contemporary Indian dishes are the trademark of this stylish restaurant. Try the grilled prawns with fenugreek. £££. Mon-Fri L; daily D. www.mint leafgroup.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Tamarind This Michelin-starred contemporary take on Mughal and North West Frontier cuisine is served in a smart Mayfair dining room. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarindrestaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.
Veeraswamy The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant, now with a Michelin star, has an opulent interior and stylish cuisine. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
INTERNATIONAL Bbar Enjoy top-quality meat at this relaxed restaurant and bar, which is close to Buckingham Palace. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.
The Cavendish This elegant, timeless restaurant serves hearty mains such as rabbit ravioli and wild salmon with tapenade. ££-£££. Daily L & D. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. www.35newcavendish.co.uk. T: 020-7487 3030. C5. Station: Baker Street.
Fifteen Jamie Oliver’s busy not-for-profit trattoria uses locally sourced ingredients for homely dishes. Daily L & D. ££. www.fifteen.net. 15 Westland Place, N1 7LP. T: 020-3375 1515. C10. Station: Old Street.
SushiSamba A fusion of Japanese, Brazilian and Peruvian cuisine at this stunning rooftop terrace. £££. Daily L & D. www.sushisamba.com. 38th Floor, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY. T: 020-3640 7330. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
ITALIAN Bella Italia Excellent traditional dishes such as Roma pizzas, lasagne and carbonara. Choose from multiple branches citywide including Bayswater, Soho and Covent Garden. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.bellaitalia. co.uk. 100 Baker St, W1U 6WG. T: 020-3058 3458. D6. Station: Baker Street.
Chutney Mary Expect a gourmet tour of seven different Indian regions in this glamorous restaurant. £££. MonFri B, L & D; Sat L & D. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.
Gaylord Iconic Indian restaurant brand, serving awardwinning sheekh kebabs and Mughal dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus. Designed in the style of colonial Indian gymkhana clubs, this Michelin-starred restaurant focuses on tandoori and charcoal grills. £££. Daily L & D. www.gymkhanalondon.com. 42 Albemarle St, W1S 4JH. T: 020-3011 5900. E6. Station: Green Park.
Khan’s of Kensington This relaxed restaurant serves a great range of north Indian vegetarian and fish dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.khansofkensington.co.uk. 3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114. G4. Station: South Kensington.
La Porte des Indes Dine in a former Edwardian ballroom for a taste of colonial India with French-Creole influences. £££. Daily L & D. www.laportedesindes.com. 32 Bryanston St, W1H 7EG. T: 020-7224 0055. D6. Station: Marble Arch.
A showstopper Andrew Lloyd Webber is such a fan of Naughty Piglets in Brixton that he’s invited the owners to open a restaurant in his theatre, The Other Palace, close to Buckingham Palace. Step into The Other Naughty Piglet and enjoy some of London’s finest small plates with natural wine from the exclusively organic wine list. Expect sublime flavour combinations, such as Devon crab with white cabbage and peanut, and beef rump with roasted bone marrow and Madeira (above). This little piggy will go far. 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. T: 020-7592 0322. www.theothernaughtypiglet.co.uk. F7. Station: St James’s Park/Victoria
IMAGE COURTESY OF THE OTHER NAUGHTY PIGLET
Gymkhana
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IMAGE COURTESY OF THE OTHER NAUGHTY PIGLET
DINING Cicchetti All-day dining venue with small plates of regional specialities to share, including antipasti and pasta. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch). T: 020-7494 9435. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Cucina Asellina Enjoy artisanal Italian dishes such as strozzapreti pasta with prawns. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.melia. com/london. ME London, 336 Strand, WC2R 1HA. T: 020-7395 2445. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Mango Tree
MIDDLE EASTERN, GREEK & TURKISH Elysee This family-run restaurant, opened in 1936, serves delicious Greek dishes. Roof terrace and late licence. £££. Mon-Sat D. www.elyseerestaurant.com. 13 Percy St, W1T 1DP. T: 020-7636 4804. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Momo
Bright restaurant where you can watch the chefs in an open-plan kitchen with a rustic pizza oven. ££. Daily L & D. www.mayfairpizzaco.com. 4 Lancashire Court, off New Bond St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7629 2889. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Decadent and popular candlelit restaurant with a lovely authentic Moroccan décor, serving tasty mezze, couscous and tagine dishes. £££. Daily L & D. www.momoresto.com. 25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH. T: 020-7434 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Quattro Passi
Nopi
Mayfair Pizza Co
This Michelin-starred fine-dining venue is inspired by southern Italy’s Amalfi coast. Try pastas and grilled meats, and the raw seafood bar. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.quattropassi.co.uk. 34 Dover St, W1S 4NG. T: 020-3096 1444. E6. Station: Green Park.
Rossopomodoro This authentic Neapolitan pizza and pasta restaurant in John Lewis department store uses high-quality ingredients. £. Daily L & D. www.rosso pomodoro.co.uk. John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX. T: 020-7629 7711. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Verdi Dine on fresh Italian classics or enjoy afternoon tea inside this iconic music venue in South Kensington. ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdiitalian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.
JAPANESE & KOREAN Benihana Chefs create griddle-cooked dishes at your table. Try the Wagyu beef and prawn, sushi and sashimi. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana.co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 020-7494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Engawa This traditional, elegant Japanese restaurant has tasting menus, plus excellent Kobe beef in different cuts. £££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Inamo Funky Asian-fusion restaurant, serving boldly flavoured dishes (also Soho). ££. Mon-Wed D; Thur-Sun L & D. www.inamo-restaurant.com. 11-14 Hanover Place, WC2E 9JP. T: 020-7484 0500. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Nobu Top-quality sashimi, sushi and tempura from acclaimed Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa, plus dishes such as scallops with yuzu truffle. Booking essential. ££££. Daily L & D. www.nobu restaurants.com. 19 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7447 4747. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Roka Mayfair This stylish space with a centrepiece robata grill serves up contemporary Japanese ’robatayaki’ cuisine (cooked over fire). £££-££££. Daily L & D. www.rokarestaurant.com. 30 North Audley St, W1K 6ZF (and branches). T: 020-7305 5644. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
Middle Eastern-inspired food from Yotam Ottalenghi with dishes to share plus a formal dining room above. ££-£££. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www.nopi-restaurant.com. 21-22 Warwick St, W1B 5NE. T: 020-7494 9584. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Elegant fine dining near Buckingham Palace, with cuisine from all regions of Thailand, such as red duck curry and sea bass wrapped in banana leaf. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.
Thai Pot This popular, informal spot offers a huge range of good-value Thai dishes, and has stylish décor. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
SPANISH
Traditional East End favourites are pie and mash, and jellied eels with parsley liquor
Yasmeen Authentic Lebanese cuisine with excellent mezze, charcoal-grilled meat and vegetarian dishes. Choose from indoor or outdoor seating in stylish surroundings. The service is impeccable. ££. Daily L & D. www.yasmeenrestaurant.com. 1 Blenheim Terrace, NW8 0EH. T: 020-7624 2921. Off map. Station: St John’s Wood.
RIVERSIDE Bateaux London See London’s sights on a river cruise while dining on modern British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises; Sun jazz with three-course L. www.bateaux london.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment.
The London Showboat
El Pirata
This authentic bar-restaurant in Mayfair serves excellent hot and cold tapas, including cured meats and fresh seafood. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Iberica Victoria Traditional dishes are given a modern twist, plus there are plenty of classics including jamon Iberico, chorizo and artisan cheeses. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.ibericarestaurants.com. 5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ. T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.
Moro North Africa meets Spain in this highly regarded Moorish restaurant, serving seasonal dishes such as charcoal-grilled lamb with rhubarb. Its sister venue, Morito, is next door and less formal. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro.co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336. Off map. Station: Farringdon.
VEGETARIAN The Gate
Drift down the River Thames past London’s landmarks while enjoying a four-course dinner. Nightly from £80 per person; booking essential. Departs Westminster Pier 7.45pm. www.city cruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.
The new branch of the established veggie restaurant has tasty dishes such as butternut rotolo and grilled halloumi in Indian spices. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.thegaterestaurants.com. 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL. T: 020-7724 6656. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
RS Hispaniola
Mildreds
Delightful moored restaurant boat on the River Thames serving British cuisine. Try the shepherd’s pie or braised pork belly. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment/ Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.
This comfortable, informal Soho institution has hearty meat-free dishes, such as wild mushroom and ale pie. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.mildreds.co.uk. 45 Lexington St, W1F 9AN. T: 020-7494 1634. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
SOUTH EAST ASIAN
Enjoy dozens of delicious dishes, buffet-style, at this relaxed café/restaurant. Choose from crunchy salads, hot dishes and healthy puddings, and pay by plate weight. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits.co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 020-7758 4110. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Chi Kitchen Pan-Asian cuisine in the department store Debenhams, with a superb setting – see the chefs at work in an open-plan dining space, and visit its Champagne bar (p. 64). ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chikitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
House of Ho Four-storey townhouse serving great Vietnamese cuisine. Try the seafood pho. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.houseofho.co.uk. 1 Percy St, W1T 1DB. T: 020-7323 9130. D7. Station: Goodge Street.
Tibits
Woodlands Well-flavoured cuisine from all over India. Enjoy dishes such as Mysore dosas, hearty thalis and cashew pakoras. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant.co.uk. 77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches). T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street. www.wheretraveler.com 69
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W H E R E
L O N D O N
P R O M O T I O N
BEST OF LONDON DINING Little India One of the few Indian restaurants owned and managed by a lady. Why not come and try our signature dish ‘Naga Chicken’ – cooked in spices and a naga chilli and tossed dry, as well as this we pride ourselves in traditional home style cooking. Come and enjoy a truly unique and memorable dining experience whilst indulging yourself in the real taste of fine Indian cuisine. Open 7 days a week – Monday to Saturday, noon till 11.30pm and Sunday noon till 11pm. Dinner reservations are strongly recommended as Little India is really little! Perfectly located near The Royal Albert Hall, Harrods, Kensington Palace and the Natural History Museum.
Gaylord
32 Gloucester Road, SW7 4RB T: 020-7584 3476/020 7589 9315 www.littleindialondon.com Station: Gloucester Road
The quality and variety of the finest curry served at Gaylord on Mortimer Street (near the West End and Oxford Street) draws foodies of all nationalities from miles away. The traditional silver thali (above) transports you to unforgettable Indian experience with the right spices. The restaurant, which has been a British Curry Award finalist, has been serving authentic Indian food since 1966. Gaylord is a brand recognised by many as an institution – it is where many people were taken by their parents or grandparents for their first taste of the finest curry. Today, 70 years later, the iconic brand is now headed up by Sunil and Dhruv Lamba, and the company has gone from strength to strength. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. www.gaylordlondon.com. Station: Oxford Circus
Khans of Kensington Visit Khans of Kensington for delicious, genuine Indian cuisine which a core of devotees have been enjoying for many years. The restaurant prides itself on its modern take on traditional North Indian cuisine, with mouthwatering dishes such as its famous fish koliwada and lamb chop in honey sauce. The expansive menu covers many dishes, but if you don’t see your personal favourite on the menu, just ask the team of expert chefs and they will be more than happy to set that right. The restaurant is just a minute’s walk from South Kensington tube station. Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm, Sun noon-11pm.
Memories of India
3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114. www.khansofkensington.co.uk. Station: South Kensington
At Memories of India you can explore and experience the many varied tastes of India, with traditional and creative Indian dishes with a twist of ingenuity. Relax and let the team of award-winning chefs take your taste buds on an exotic trip and an unforgettable dining experience. The dishes here contain the finest ingredients in order to create the uncompromising flavours of India. We have a private room for parties and corporate functions. Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm; Sun noon-11pm. 18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450/020-7581 3734. www.memoriesofindia.com. Station: Gloucester Road.
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W H E R E
L O N D O N
P R O M O T I O N
BEST OF LONDON DINING Chi Kitchen Contemporary pan-Asian restaurant Chi Kitchen opened last year on the ground floor of Debenhams on Oxford Street. The word ‘chi’, in Chinese, means energy, and the restaurant strives to offer good energy, as well as great food, to hungry shoppers. The open-plan restaurant lets you watch the chefs prepare Thai, Chinese, Malaysian, Japanese, Vietnamese and Korean cuisine. Chi Kitchen will take you on a unique culinary journey through south east Asia. Mention ‘Where London’ when you book to enjoy a complimentary glass of Champagne when you buy any main meal at Chi Kitchen. Mon-Sat 7.30am-11pm (last orders 10.15pm), Sun 11.30am-10pm (last orders 9.15pm).
El Pirata
Ground Floor Debenhams (Henrietta Place entrance), 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. www.chikitchen.co.uk. Station: Oxford Circus
For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. Informal, inexpensive and, above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ). Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park
Chai Wu Chai Wu is a contemporary Chinese restaurant, located on the Fifth Floor of the iconic department store, Harrods, in Knightsbridge. The restaurant design incorporates the five elements of Chinese philosophy: wood, metal, water, earth and fire, creating an elegant, opulent and welcoming dining setting. The tasty, exotic and colourful dishes reflect the finest of modern Chinese cuisine. The menu consists of small dishes such as black truffle sour soup and Chilean sea bass dumpling with gold leaf, as well as luxurious dishes including Beijing duck and wagyu steak. Mon-Sat noon-9pm (last orders 8.30pm), Sun noon-6pm (last orders 5.15pm)
Mango Tree
5th Floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. www.chaiwu.co.uk. Station: Knightsbridge
Mango Tree, situated in the heart of Belgravia, offers exquisite Thai cuisine and world-renowned hospitality in a modern and stylish environment. Its innovative yet classic cuisine is made from the finest ingredients. Enjoy genuine Thai dishes from the four main culinary regions: rich and mild dishes from the north, spicy food from the east, mild, Chinese-style dishes from the central region, and hot and spicy food from the south. Mention ‘Where London’ when booking, and enjoy a free glass of Champagne when you buy any main meal. Monday-Wed noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm; Sat noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11.30pm; Sun noon-10.30pm. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ (also in Harrods: 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL). T: 020-7823 1888. www.mangotree.org.uk. Station: Victoria
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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE This image: Holborn Dining Room’s Gin Bar Below: a cocktail at The Distillery
Gin o’clock Love gin? Then you’ve come to the right city. Since the Middle Ages, London has been distilling vast quantities of the spirit, which is derived from juniper berries. So much so that by the mid-18th century, the capital was said to be in the grip of a ‘gin craze’, forcing Parliament to pass Gin Acts and distillation bans. Thankfully, things have relaxed a lot since then and these days you’ll find craft distilleries and gin bars galore. If you think all gin and tonics taste the same, you’ve clearly never been to Holborn Dining Room’s Gin Bar, which boasts more than 400 varieties of the spirit and 30 different tonics. With more than 14,000 possible gin and tonic pairings, from well-known international brands through to small-batch local distillers, it can be overwhelming knowing where to start. Simply let the bartenders know what kind of herbs, spices, fruit or floral flavours you like, and they’ll be able to find the exact combination to suit your palate. Our favourite? The East India Company’s gin mixed with
Ledger’s naturally sweetened tonic (252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN). For those who can’t face the journey from bar to bed, there’s The Distillery – a boutique gin hotel with three beautiful rooms that overlooks Portobello Road in Notting Hill. This is where the world-famous Portobello Road Gin is made. Downstairs, there’s a timeless
cocktail bar called The Resting Room, but head upstairs and you’ll find GinTonica, a colourful tapas and gin bar inspired by Spain’s Basque region. Pull up a stool by the open kitchen or small corner bar and watch the expert chefs and bartenders whip up some of the best G&Ts and small plates in London. We recommend a G’Vine Nouaision cocktail or straight-up Kokoro gin from Japan, no ice, to really appreciate its earthy black pepper notes (186 Portobello Rd, W11 1LA). You can see how some of the capital’s award-winning gin is made at the City of London Distillery (C.O.L.D) in Blackfriars. Choose from a range of tours and experiences – we recommend the intriguing Evolution of Gin Tour to find out how the spirit has developed over the centuries. You’ll love its five-flight gin tasting. Or get hands-on at a Gin Lab Experience, which lets you design and distill your own bottle of gin to take home – the ultimate souvenir for any gin lover (22-24 Bride Lane, EC4Y 8DT).
GIN BAR COURTESY OF HOLBORN DINING ROOM; COCKTAIL COURTESY OF THE DISTILLERY
London is awash with gin bars, from one serving 14,000 different gin and tonic combinations to another that lets you distill your own bottle of gin to take home, says Sam Rogg
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Most bars are open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs are open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References near end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81
TRADITIONAL PUBS The Blackfriar This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened more than 100 years ago, offers cask ales. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese
Booking Office Bar
This landmark pub has wood-panelled walls and vaults that are thought to date back to a 13th-century Carmelite monastery which once stood here. 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170. D9. Station: Blackfriars.
The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings and stone walls dating back to 1873. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross.
BARS & CLUBS
Burlock
Cittie of Yorke
The Back Room
The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint in the traditional pub for a real taste of historic London. 22 High Holborn, WC1 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.
Next to the Hard Rock Cafe, the bar boasts vintage and iconic music items, including a door from Apple Studios signed by the Beatles. Enjoy cocktails, pizzas and a great vibe. www.hardrock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park.
The Dog and Duck
68 & Boston
A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers, as well as pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsons pubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Flask This 17th-century pub boasts Byron and Shelley as past patrons and is allegedly haunted! www.the flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.
The French House No music, TV or mobile phones make this cosy Soho pub a real gem. www.frenchhousesoho.com. 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 020-7437 2477. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The George Inn This historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Sophisticated Soho venue with separate cocktail and wine bars. The ground-floor wine bar boasts many lesser-known regions, including Uruguay, and all bottles are just £20. Nightly food menu. www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD. T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Bar at Bellamy’s Cocktails and wines are served in a chic setting, which is decorated with vintage ski posters. www.bellamysrestaurant.co.uk. 18/18a Bruton Place, W1J 6LY. T: 020-7491 2727. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Baranis A taste of Provence in London, this chic bar has a grand vaulted cellar full of fine French wines and pastis, plus the UK’s only indoor pétanque court. www.baranis.co.uk. 115 Chancery Lane, WC2 1PP. T: 020-7242 8373. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.
Rum is definitely the spirit of choice in this relaxed bar that specialises in many types of cocktails featuring the Caribbean spirit and unusual ingredients. www.burlocklondon.co.uk. 31 Duke St, W1U 1LG. T: 020-7935 3303. D6. Station: Bond Street.
BYOC At ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’, pay £25, bring a spirit of your choice and the mixologist will create your drink. You’re advised to book in advance. www.byoc.co.uk. 9-11 Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE. T: 020-3441 2424. Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent.
Cartizze Bar Timeless luxury Bellini and cocktail destination with art deco surroundings and excellent service. www.cartizzebar.com. 4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.
City Social Jason Atherton offers spectacular food and drink surrounded by breathtaking views of London. The adjoining restaurant is one of the most talked-about in town, and the bar is also impressive, with its amazing art deco interior and Prohibition-inspired cocktail list. www.citysociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
The Guinea Site of an inn since 1423, this was where wealthy Mayfair’s stable hands and servants used to drink. www.theguinea.co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street.
The Magpie & Stump This pub, opposite the Old Bailey, dates back to the 1500s, and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. B8. Station: St Paul’s.
The Punchbowl This popular Mayfair-based pub-restaurant was once owned by film director Guy Ritchie. Enjoy a variety of ales in the unique, classy surroundings. www.punchbowllondon.com. 41 Farm St, W1J 5RP. T: 0207-493 6841. E6. Station: Green Park.
The Spaniards Inn Follow in the footsteps of past regulars, including highwayman Dick Turpin and novelist Charles Dickens, at the historic pub, which is one of the oldest in London. www.thespaniardshampstead. co.uk. Spaniards Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406. Off map. Station: Hampstead. RITORNO © TIM WINTER
GIN BAR COURTESY OF HOLBORN DINING ROOM; COCKTAIL COURTESY OF THE DISTILLERY
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Waxy O’Connor’s Long-standing, huge Irish bar, comprising four bars over six levels. It shows Ireland’s major sporting events on big screens. www.waxyo connors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Top Pick
Milan magic For a touch of glamour, head to Ritorno, a sophisticated aperitivo lounge bar that brings a slice of Milan to Chelsea. Sit down at the low-lit bar and watch mixologist Paolo work his flamboyant magic. Try the Sicilia, a heady mix of Maker’s Mark bourbon with Marsala Targa Riserva Florio, pistachio and blood orange. If you prefer vodka, opt for the Sardegna, a bracing blend of Stolichnaya vodka, Sardinian liqueur Mirto Silvio Carta and blueberry syrup. Then choose a few small plates – the burrata with Tuscan salad pairs perfectly. 442 King’s Rd, SW10 0LQ. T: 020-3301 6333. www.ritorno.co.uk. Off map. Station: Sloane Square/Earl’s Court www.wheretraveler.com 73
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NIGHTLIFE C.O.L.D Bar (The City of London Distillery) A wonderful well-stocked, retro-styled cocktail bar that overlooks the striking copper stills of the distillery. Tastings, classes and tours, including an Evolution of Gin tour, are available (p. 72). www.city oflondondistillery.com. 22-24 Bride Lane, EC4Y 8DT. T: 020-7936 3446. D9. Station: Blackfriars.
Dirty Martini With deluxe banquettes and a quirky layout, this cocktail bar is a hit with its endless list of martinis. Mon-Sat 4pm-late. Multiple branches. www.dirty martini.uk.com. 10c Hanover Square, W1S 1JH. T: 020-7632 2087. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
The Dolls House
Hixter Bankside
Scarfes Bar
Restaurateur Mark Hix’s bar shows his trademark interest in modern art – see an installation by Helen Chadwick that replicates a London Tube carriage. www.hixrestaurants.co.uk. 16 Great Guildford St, SE1 0HS. T: 020-7921 9508. E9. Station: Southwark.
Part of the luxury hotel Rosewood London, this bar is named after Gerald Scarfe, the cartoonist famous for his satirical illustrations. Enjoy Indian-inspired snacks. www.scarfesbar.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.
Mahiki
Six Storeys
This popular tiki haunt is a real draw for celebrities. The Polynesian-themed club offers classic and fresh fruit cocktails and special creations to share, including Treasure Chest and Honolulu Honey. www.mahiki.com. 1 Dover St, W1S 4LD. T: 020-7493 9529. E7. Station: Green Park.
Bohemian, decadent bar in a Soho townhouse, split over six levels. Creative cocktails are its speciality. www.sixstoreys.com. 11 Soho Square, W1D 3QE. T: 020-3504 7381. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Rd.
The Met Bar
Acclaimed restaurateur Jason Atherton’s stylish wine bar and restaurant with counter and tableserved tapas. All the waiters are sommeliers and there is a magnificent wine shop upstairs. www.socialwineandtapas.com. 39 James St, W1U 1DL. T: 020-7993 3257. D6. Station: Bond Street.
This stylish cocktail bar and private members’ club offers mixed drinks in The Parlour on the ground floor and is tastefully furnished. www.thedead dollsclub.com. 181 Upper St, N1 1RQ. T: 020-7288 1470. D7. Station: Highbury & Islington.
With a suave Mayfair setting, it’s a fresh, stylish look for this famous bar in the Metropolitan Hotel. Extensive wine list, vintage Champagne by the glass and cocktails, plus a British food menu. www.metbar. co.uk. 19 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7447 1000. Off map. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
The Draft House
The Nightjar
Enjoy fabulous draft beers from around the world at this friendly bar. Measures come in one-third pint glasses (and larger), perfect for discovering your favourite. www.drafthouse.co.uk. 206-208 Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7378 9995. E11. Station: London Bridge/Tower Hill.
Old-school glamour and Prohibition-era cocktails are the signature of this new basement hangout in Shoreditch. Live music from the jazz golden age adds a touch of style. www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.
Drakes Tabanco
Old Bengal Bar
A Spanish-style bar that serves rare sherries which have been aged in ancient oak barrels – enjoy a self-poured tipple straight from the barrel. There are also craft beers, a range of natural wines and tapas. www.drakestabanco.com. 3 Windmill St, W1T 2HY. T: 020-7637 9388. D7. Station: Goodge Street.
The Drift All aboard this chic, relaxing oasis in the heart of the City. Its industrial-style décor has ocean-inspired touches, while the bar serves punch bowls and cocktails. www.thedriftbar. co.uk. Heron Tower, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY. T: 0845-468 0103. D10. Station: Barbican.
Freedom This gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its stylish cocktail bar and nightclub. www.freedom barsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Converted from a former East India Co warehouse, this venue boasts atmospheric dark interior, with the original brick walls and wooden beams, stylish leather banquettes and classy cocktails. www.old bengalbar.com. 16 New St, EC2M 4TR. T: 020-3503 0780. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
One New Change Champagne Bar Superbly located near St Paul’s Cathedral, this stunning bar boasts a huge selection of bubbly, plus Champagne cocktails and premium beers. Various branches around London. www.searcys champagnebars.co.uk. 1/F One New Change, EC4M 9AF. T: 020-7871 1213. D10. Station: St Paul’s.
John Keats wrote his poem Ode to a Nightingale in The Spaniards Inn in Hampstead
Opium Cocktail Bar This stylish upstairs bar tucked away in Chinatown serves innovative Chinese-inspired cocktails. www.opiumchinatown.com. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 020-7734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Social Wine & Tapas
St Pancras Champagne Bar Europe’s longest Champagne bar takes pride of place in the graceful station where the Paris Eurostar arrives. There are heated leather banquettes and call buttons to summon a waiter to refill your glasses. Fabulous selection of bubbly plus fresh seafood platters from this Searcys outlet. www.searcys champagnebars.co.uk. St Pancras International, Upper Concourse, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 0207870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross.
Trader Vic’s Tiki-style basement bar and restaurant, which is more than 50 years old. The menu features rum-laced cocktails − try the Mai Tai in this exotic setting. www.tradervicslondon.com. London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4113. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Vista Central London’s largest rooftop bar overlooks Trafalgar Square. Gaze at Nelson’s Column as you sip on cocktails. www.thetrafalgar.com. 6/F Trafalgar Hotel, 2 Spring Gardens, SW1 2TS. T: 020-7870 2900. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
The Zetter Townhouse Tony Conigliaro, known for his groundbreaking cocktails, brings his mixology magic to this intimate cocktail lounge. www.thezettertownhouse.com. 49-50 St John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4545. Off map. Station: Farringdon.
CASINOS
Gong
Oriole
Located in The Shard, Gong is the highest Champagne bar in London and the ideal place for sunset cocktails and late-night drinks. www.shangri-la.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.
Spacious cocktail bar hidden beneath Smithfield Market, with live swing, jazz and blues music most nights. Beautiful interiors and incredible drinks inspired by the Old World, New World and the Orient. www.oriolebar.com. Smithfield Markets, East Poultry Avenue, EC1A 9LH. T: 020-3457 8099. D9. Station: Farringdon.
Aspers Casino
Primo Bar Sumptuous, modern cocktail bar with live music and afternoon tea, plus a VIP area with river views. Try the Asian-inspired cocktails. www.primobar. co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7282. F8. Station: Waterloo.
There is a dedicated poker room and the latest table and electronic games at this spectacular venue, housing a contemporary Asian restaurant and several bars. www.thecasinolsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Reverend J W Simpson
Grosvenor Gloucester Casino
Good Godfreys Old-style glamour and classic cocktails are served with a hint of history at this suave establishment. Try signature cocktails including the Astor Hip Flask. www.waldorfhilton.co.uk. The Waldorf Hilton, Aldwych, WC2B 4DD. T: 020-7836 2400. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Gordon’s Wine Bar London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles from around the world since 1890 in its stone-walled basement. Hugely popular, so a seat is a real bonus. Well-priced pub food, including cheese plates. www.gordonswine bar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment/Charing Cross.
This cocktail bar is a real slice of ‘shabby chic’ – and is the genuine ex-abode of the good Reverend, proved by the blue plaque outside. Scruffy sofas and a laid-back vibe are its hallmark. www.revjwsimpson.com. 32 Goodge St, W1T 2QJ. T: 020-3174 1155. E7. Station: Goodge Street.
Endless gaming offerings and great views of the Olympic Stadium from the Sky Bar at this 24-hour venue. www.aspersstratford.co.uk. Westfield Stratford City, Montifichet Rd, Olympic Park, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8536 5630. Off map. Station: Stratford.
The Casino at the Empire
A vibrant and friendly casino offering a wide choice of gaming facilities, plus a late-night bar and relaxed restaurant. Open 24 hours. www.grosvenorcasinos.com. 4-18 Harrington Gardens, SW7 4LJ. T: 020-7373 7134. G4. Station: Gloucester Road.
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NIGHTLIFE Hippodrome Casino
London Cabaret Club
This landmark venue has fabulous gaming on three floors, plus the 150-seat Heliot Steak House. Food is served around the clock. There is The Late Jazz Jam (every Thur from 11pm). www.hippo dromecasino.com. Cranbourn St, Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Cabaret gets a modern twist at this unique club within the Bloomsbury Ballroom. ‘Best of British Pop’ is packed with chart-toppers from the 1960s to the present day, fusing dance, acrobatics and theatre on stage. Dinner and VIP tickets available. www.thelondoncabaretclub.com. Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, WC1B 4DA. T: 020-7242 0002. D8. Station: Holborn.
The Sportsman Casino This club combines the best in traditional and electronic gaming, informal dining, a sophisticated poker lounge, a sports bar and an elegant restaurant. Smart dress; complimentary membership. www.thesportsmancasino.com. Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3051 4616. D6. Station: Marble Arch.
Ronnie Scott’s The world-famous jazz venue has hosted top musicians for more than 50 years, including Sarah Vaughan, Count Basie, Prince, Ella Fitzgerald and Miles Davis. The venue also includes a bar and
restaurant. The weekly Sunday Jazz lunch has no minimum age, which makes it perfect for families. There are acts every night, plus Sat and Sun lunchtimes. Look out for more intimate gigs upstairs every Wed, where food is also served. www.ronnie scotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Stringfellows Gentleman’s Club Over the years, celebrities and the public have enjoyed a memorable evening of entertainment supplied by more than 80 ‘Angels’ dancing at their tables. Free entry when dining. www.stringfellows. com. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
LIVE ENTERTAINMENT The 100 Club Famous basement live music venue with diverse performers – in the past these have included The Rolling Stones, Muddy Waters and Paul Weller. The emphasis today is on rock and blues bands, with DJ nights. www.the100club.co.uk. 100 Oxford St, W1D 1LL. T: 020-7636 0933. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
606 Club A relaxed members’ jazz cellar and restaurant, which has been run by musician Steve Rubie for more than 30 years. The venue specialises in British-based artists, playing blues, r’n’b and soul. There is also a restaurant that serves great food. www.606club.co.uk. 90 Lots Rd, SW10 0QD. T: 020-7352 5953. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.
The Blues Kitchen This busy music venue stages blues, soul and jazz music most nights, plus a DJ at weekends. There are more than 80 varieties of bourbon and rye, plus Cajun comfort food on offer. www.theblueskitchen.com. 111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN. T: 020-7387 5277. Off map. Station: Camden Town.
Bunga Bunga Part restaurant, part bar and lots of live entertainment, this new Covent Garden venue has all the makings of a theatrical night out. Enjoy Italian cuisine as you watch the live cabaret acts. If you are with a group, ask for the Disaronno Boat, which is shaped like a speedboat and seats up to 10 guests. www.bungabunga-london.com. 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG. T: 020-7590 3602. D8. Station: Holborn.
The Comedy Store One of the country’s best and most famous venues for stand-up and improvised comedy. More than 3,500 people pass through its doors every week. The club launched the careers of many famous comedians, including Rik Mayall, Ben Elton, Adrian Edmondson and Jo Brand. www.thecomedystore. co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-847 1728. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Forge This award-winning bijou acoustic venue behind the Foundry restaurant enjoys a variety of live music most nights, ranging from classical and folk to traditional Indian and jazz. The upstairs restaurant serves Latin American street food. www.forge venue.org. 3-7 Delancey St, NW1 7NL. T: 020-7383 7808. Off map. Station: Camden Town. www.wheretraveler.com 75
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WELLBEING | THE GUIDE
This image: a foot massage Inset: John Bell & Croyden
Happy feet As a tourist, you will be on your feet all day rushing from one sight to another. It’s easy to forget one of the most crucial parts of any holiday: relaxing. Help is at hand, as there are plenty of spas ready to tend to your tired feet. It’s not just about pedicures, but ensuring your feet are as healthy as they can be. It’s time to put your best foot forward! If it’s good enough for the Queen, then it’s good enough for us. John Bell & Croyden is a Royal Warrant Holder – an official mark of recognition that proves a company has supplied goods or services to the royal family for at least the past five years. The pharmacist has been selling medicines since 1798, and has been the Queen’s pharmacist for years. If you are in particular pain with your feet, visit its Chiropody & Podiatry Clinic, which specialises in treating conditions including joint and lower limb issues, heel pain, arch pain, flat fleet, verrucas and callouses (50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2U).
Shopping can be a tiring business. If you have spent the day in Westfield London, in Shepherd’s Bush, head to the nearby K West Spa. Luxurious treatments include a Red Carpet Ready Pedicure (70 min; £60). Dry and dead skin is buffed away, nails and cuticles are tidied and a mask is applied to revitalise the skin. After a massage, which concentrates on your reflex points, you can then have your nails polished, so that your feet are sandal-ready.
While you’re there, take advantage of the foot baths, steam rooms, hydrotherapy pool and ice-filled Snow Paradise room – a one-of-a-kind space in London, which is chilled to -15 degrees. To improve your circulation, shift between each room’s extreme temperatures (Richmond Way, W14 0AX). Proving that it’s not just women who can enjoy glamorous treatments for their feet, the Bamford Haybarn Spa in The Berkeley hotel offers treatments specially for men. The Berkeley Shape and Buff for Men (25 min; £35; p. 77) includes a foot bath, which softens rough skin, a massage to release tension and improve circulation, and the removal of dead skin. Feet are then moisturised and cuticles tidied and buffed for well-groomed toes. When you have finished, make sure you go to the rooftop pool for some landmark spotting. On sunnier days, the roof opens up to the elements. The pool has a spectacular view of London and will remind you that you are in the greatest city in the world.
MAIN IMAGE © ISTOCK; INTERIOR IMAGE COURTESY OF JOHN BELL & CROYDEN
If you have been on your feet all day, then it’s time to treat them to some tender, loving care at one of the capital’s leading spas. Kohinoor Sahota rounds up the best in London
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MAIN IMAGE © ISTOCK; INTERIOR IMAGE COURTESY OF JOHN BELL AND CROYDON
FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map (p. 80-81)
SPAS Aveda Institute This three-storey salon offers cuts, colour, blow-dries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has treatments lasting 15 and 30 minutes. www.aveda institute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.
Bamford Haybarn Spa Loved by celebrities, treatments have a holistic approach to wellbeing, and use botanical products. There is also a rooftop pool and secret garden (p. 76). www.the-berkeley.co.uk. The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL. T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.
Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa This exclusive members’ only spa offers day passes for £25. Swim in a 56ft pool, use the fitness equipment or visit the Figaro Hair Salon. There are treatment rooms for disabled customers. www.blueharbourspa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7300 5011. Off map. Station: Imperial Wharf.
Elemis Day Spa This spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. In The Penthouse, a private suite, share the experience with a guest while sipping Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Jurlique Founded by Dr Jürgen Klein, a biochemist, and his wife Ulrike, a botanist, this spa uses their natural skincare range. Treatments include an anti-stress facial, which eases tension in your face, neck and shoulders. www.jurlique.co.uk. 489 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. T: 0800-040 7685. D8. Station: Bond Street.
Mandara Spa This spa has an Asian touch: the décor includes a bamboo forest, Mondrian paintings and Japanese shoji screens. Try the warm bamboo massage, where bamboo stalks are used on your body. www.mandara spa.com. Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Mandarin Oriental A luxury spa inspired by Chinese massage methods. Facilities include a 55ft pool and gym. Book a session with trainer Ruben Tabares – sessions can be held in Hyde Park. www.mandarin oriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
One Aldwych This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
The Refinery This men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional shave to sports massage. If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a Principles of Shaving lesson. Also available at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel An oasis of calm in the West End that boasts a 24-hour gym and luxury treatments including a gold age-defying facial and carat diamond face and body rituals. There are also treatments for two. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.
The Spa at Dolphin Square Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. There is also a menu for hen parties. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.
Spa Illuminata Voted the best day spa in London by Condé Nast, this spa’s menu includes facials, massages and options for men. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. www.spailluminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
AVENA MASSAGE by qualified female masseuse.
Total relaxation, revitalising massage. Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:
07879 697478
Urban Retreat at Harrods This is one of the few places in London that offers paraffin wax baths. Special services include extensions, weaves, wig creation and cutting in the Wig Boudoir. www.urbanretreat.co.uk. Fifth floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7893 8333. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
Ushvani
Late appointments available
This plush venue was voted the best day spa by Tatler a few years ago. The philosophy is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include a Malay massage and Balinese massage, which incorporate herbs and spices. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.
SALONS Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com. 31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Geo F Trumper A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and hair cuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.
Hershesons Blow Dry Bar At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it in 30 minutes. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Jo Hansford This hair-colour salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work. The salon also has an in-house chef. www.jo hansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
Windle & Moodie An award-winning hair salon, which specialises in upfront catwalk looks. The 20-minute Speed Styling service includes updos. www.windleand moodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden. www.wheretraveler.com 77
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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card. It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London. You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £3 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London. Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon. An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.
GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.
AT YOUR SERVICE Concierges in the capital use Where London for information, and they are always reliable experts in their own right Jolanta Kowalska, concierge at Sheraton Grand London Park Lane, shares her tips What do you recommend for visitors with just a day? Start the day with breakfast at The Wolseley followed by a private half-day walking tour ending with lunch at Borough Market. In the evening, don’t miss a West End show before a late-night dinner reservation made by your concierge. What do you recommend for repeat visitors? Explore areas outside central London. In the south, visit Kew Gardens, Richmond Park and the Petersham Nurseries Café; and in the north, visit Hampstead Heath, Kenwood House and Freud Museum London. What do you recommend for visitors with children? Take a train or river boat to Hampton Court. Hampton Court Palace has plenty of
space – young ones can run around its lawns, maze and magical garden, which has aerial walkways, sand and water play areas and a wobbly bridge. Where is London’s most romantic spot? Take a canal boat cruise from Little Venice to Regent’s Park and stroll up Primrose Hill, where you can have a romantic picnic with an amazing view of London.
What would be your dream day in London? It would be with my family – I’d have a cronut (a cross between a doughnut and a croissant!) and coffee at Dominique Ansel Bakery in Belgravia. We’d walk through the Chelsea Flower Show, have oysters for lunch at Wright Brothers in South Kensington and visit Tate Britain – your last chance to see David Hockney is 29 May! Why is your hotel special? Sheraton Grand London Park Lane is one of the few iconic art deco hotels remaining in London, with the only full-size art deco ballroom still intact. Clockwise from top left: Borough Market; Sheraton Grand London Park Lane; Tate Britain; seafood platter at Wright Brothers Inset: Jolanta Kowalska
www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The night Tube service runs on Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly line. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.80 (£2.30 with an Oyster card).
London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. Single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or UK-issued contactless payment card.
London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground Map opposite). Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes.
Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 020-7363 9700.
Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands. Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex. Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras International (connects to King’s Cross St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, and southeast England. Charing Cross London Bridge Waterloo and Victoria serve southern England. For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0845-748 4950. Eurostar uses St Pancras International. Visit www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (or if you’re outside the UK, call T: 01233-617 575).
BOROUGH MARKET © JOANNA HENDERSON/VISITBRITAIN; THE PALM COURT AT SHERATON GRAND LONDON PARK LANE © MATTHEW SHAW; TATE BRITAIN COURTESY OF TATE BRITAIN; WRIGHT BROTHERS SEAFOOD © CHARLOTTE ANDERSON; JOLANTA KOWALSKA COURTESY OF SHERATON GRAND LONDON PARK LANE
London Underground (The Tube)
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Accessible London
Emirates Air Line cable car
Mail Boxes Etc
Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river service at www.visitlondon.com/ access and www.openbritain.net.
London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). You can buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.
Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland. Mail Boxes are also trained certified packers. T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.
Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against you using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. For more information, visit www.tfl.gov.uk.
Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 020-8542 0403. www.kendallcars.com. Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk.
Congestion Charge UNDERGROUND SIGN © ISTOCK. MAP COURTESY OF TFL
OF TATE BRITAIN; WRIGHT BROTHERS SEAFOOD © CHARLOTTE ANDERSON; JOLANTA KOWALSKA COURTESY OF SHERATON GRAND LONDON PARK LANE
ESSENTIALS
There is a congestion charge to drive into central London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Payable in advance or on the day of travel (£11.50), or the day after (£14). UK: T: 034-3222 2222. International: T: +44 20-7649 9122. www.cclondon.com.
River services www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: T: 020-7001 2200. www.thamesclippers.com. Catamarans leave major piers every 20 mins. Services run between Waterloo Pier and The O2 (North Greenwich Pier) and on to Royal Arsenal Woolwich Pier, stopping at 20 main piers. Discounts on single journeys on all MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. The River Roamer day pass gives unlimited hop-on, hop-off travel from £17.35.
On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ legiblelondon.
Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. From £2 for 30 minutes; the first 30 minutes are free. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.
Coaches London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe. SW1W 9TP. T: 0843-222 1234. www.tfl. Victoria. Map D4. gov.uk/coaches
DELIVERY AirPortr (Luggage delivery service) Same-day luggage transfer between London’s airports and hotels – travel bag-free and make the most of your time here. Prices start at £15 for one bag plus £10 for each additional item (any size or weight). T: 020-3384 6677. www.portr.com.
24-hour Tube lines Run Fridays & Saturdays on the following lines. More are due to open soon. • Jubilee Line: Across the entire line. • Victoria Line: Across the entire line. • Northern Line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town to High Barnet/Edgware. Night Tube will not stop at Charing Cross until July. • Piccadilly Line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5. • Central Line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault. www.wheretraveler.com 79
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WHERE NOW | SAM BOMPAS
My London
SAM BOMPAS COFOUNDER OF BOMPAS & PARR Bompas is one part of Bompas & Parr, experts in multi-sensory experiences combining food and art. The group has created jelly skyscrapers, a grotto for grown-ups in Westfield and Dinner at the Twits in The Vaults under Waterloo What is your favourite green space? This has to be the Barbican’s secret jungle conservatory; it’s one of the lushest places in London combining Brutalist architecture, tropical plants and terrapins. We hosted our book launch for Feasting with Bompas & Parr amid the foliage.
What is your perfect breakfast? Breakfast itself is eaten enroute to the studio. On good days, this is a large hunk of seed cake made by my flatmate who is a pastry chef.
What do you like to have for lunch? Padella was a recent success – the Italian restaurant is in Borough Market and it’s cheap.
What are your favourite buildings? The Elephant and Castle Shopping Centre for the bowling; the IMAX for the visitor experience honed to celebrate the architecture; and St Paul’s Cathedral – my brother just got engaged in the Whispering Gallery. Tell us your favourite museums. As often as possible I visit Sir John Soane’s Museum, the strange house of one of Britain’s foremost architects. It is a cabinet of curiosities crammed full of architectural ornaments; he even had a hermit’s cell built for a live-in mystic. Another favourite is Tim Hunkin’s self-made arcade in Holborn called Novelty Automation. It contains a pin-ball version of the Large Hadron Collider. Where do you like to shop? I normally buy a couple of books a day. Tate Modern’s bookshop goes some way to enabling the habit.
What places in the city inspire you? The River Thames for the changing smell; the recent pollution for creating beautiful fogs, despite ruining Londoners’ pink lungs; The London Library; the Natural History Museum’s mighty Earth Gallery; Crossrail for the enormity of the engineering; and Crossbones Graveyard in Borough. What place holds a special memory? Shoreditch House – the scene of some revels, including Wetness at Breakfast: Gourmet Bathing and Morning Cocktails, which had a submerged banquet table and mermen mixologists. How do you prefer to travel? On the front seat on the top deck of a bus. Where do you like to drink? The Lord Clyde in Borough, between my studio and house, is a beauty. The copper is polished, including the pipework above the urinals.
Would you do anything extravagant? When I turned 30, my parents said I needed to buy furniture. Instead I picked up a Nebuchadnezzar (15 litres) of Champagne, chilled it in the bath and hosted a party. Feeling remorseful the next day, I turned the empty bottle into a mighty lamp. I could do with another bottle to furnish the rest of the room. Where do you like to have dinner? Right now it is Hoi Polloi at the Ace Hotel in Shoreditch. The restaurant stays open later than most places and one of the waiters wears rollerskates. The acoustics are phenomenal, too. What would you do for entertainment? Riflery in the secretive gun club in the footings of London Bridge. You shoot out over the River Thames and few people have any idea it’s there. Where would you spend the night? My heating broke down during the winter of 2015, and the house was bitterly cold. It is savagely decadent, but on really cold nights I would check into the sensual and luxurious Mondrian London at Sea Containers hotel. The rooms were the perfect refuge, and I also loved a pre-mixed Beeswax Old Fashioned by mixologist Ryan Chetiyawardana. For more information about culinary experiences, visit www.bompasandparr.com Clockwise from top left: Tate Modern; Sam Bompas; Routemaster bus; interior of St Paul’s Cathedral; Borough Market
SAM BOMPAS © CHARLIE SURBEY; ALL OTHER IMAGES © ISTOCK
How do you start the day? The best days start with rigorous bouldering at The Arch Climbing Wall in Bermondsey. I go from 6.30am with my younger brother. It is a wonderfully physical way to begin the day, and there’s a healthy eroticism to it all with bodies splayed across colourful geometric challenges.
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