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VENICE CITY GUIDE ®

MAY 2019

Burano, the rainbow island

All you can do in Venice and its surroundings

W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/ VENICE

吃喝玩乐 尽在这里

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS


Venice May 2019 6

38

EXPERIENCE

the guide

SIGHTSEEING

24 SHOPPING

Pomellato has reopened the doors of its boutique, an elegant, contemporary space showcasing the brand’s latest creations.

BAGARON C A M PA LT O MESTRE

32 DINING

8

The Grand Canal restaurant combines the pleasures of the palate with a breathtaking view over Venice’s Lagoon and the San Marco Basin.

HOT DATES

Parco San Giuliano

38 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

INSIDER TIPS

E

A

IAN

OND ROT

CAN

LA

GA

DE

LAR

LE

LE

CAL

CAL

O ITEL CAP

E

E DEL

G PIAV LAR C.

A

HIA

ROS

CC

GA

VE

A MASEN LA

DE

CALLE

NA

ERI

stol

i

CALLE

ti Apo San

I

dei Rio

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAGAZEN

DON

CALLE

CALLE

COR DEI LE

LLA

CAL

STE LE

STEL LA CALL E

BAN DI CAL LE

NO

FOR DEL LE CAL

TEST A E DE

DOSE E DEL CALL

O

NAVE

IOL

VOLT

LA

SO

TAR

ADI

DE

DEL

FRU

C.

PAR

LE

DEL

CAL

C.

LE

CAL

SAN T’AN TON IO

CAL LE

ZULIAN

BALBI CALLE

ILE APR II IA CER MER

STAGNE RI

C. DEI

BAL OTE LE DE

DEL

EI BAS

DEL CAL LE

CALL

SALIZADA

Palazzo Ducale

MO

LO

SA

A N M

RC

O

VONI SCHIA RIVA

DEGLI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

SALUTE

NI

Punta della Dogana

RE

AI

SA

LO

CATECUMENI

CALLE ZUCCHERO

SPIRIT

O SANTO

FONDAME

TE ZAT TA

San

AM

ND

FO

BRAG

TA

FOND

BILI

INCURA

CALLE

E ALLO

ETTO

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

AMEN

PISCINA

ZATTER

I

MENTA

FORNACE

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDA

SALON

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

E AI GESUA TI

Zattere

CALLE DELA CREA

Spirito Santo

NTA ZATTERE

Spirito Santo AM

EN

TA

SA

N

BIA

GI

O

FO

Sant'Eufemia FO

TA

SA

NT

'EU

FEM

IA

ITE

FONDA

E COSM

O

ANDO A FERR

CALL

MENTA

PONTE

PICCOL

O

GIUDECCA FONDA

M E N TA

SAN GI ACOM

FO

Redentore O

ND

AM

EN

TA

CR

OC

ND

AM

EN

TA

TE

E

LL

E

CA

MP

IE

LL

O

CA

MP

O

DI

MA

RT

E

E

C

CA

LL

LE

MA

SO

N CA

FO

ZI

N

D

AM

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

Giudecca Palanca EN

'OLIO

VERT

AM

E DELL

E CON

ONDA

CALL

ND

NGO

ND

RI

RETT

ANE

I

LAVR

OBIL

TE

DE LE ERBE

FO

PON

CALL

DE LA SACA

DE

CALLE

RI

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAL

I

ZZ

ce

PO

Dol

DO

Ca’

GA RU

Rio

LI

R

APOSTO

PISTO

SANTI

DEL

C.SAN T’ANT ONIO

ADA

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZ

EGIO

NAR

CAN

CALLE DEI FUSERI

PISCIN A SAN

BOM LE CAL

LOV O

CAL LE

SAN A CHI VEC

A

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

BO A

DEL

ZELL

LLE

DON

CA

C. NI

O

VAN GIO

L’ARC

SAN LE

CAL

E DE CALL

LA

LLE

CA

DI

CA

CAL

CAT

TA

SAN

ARINI

LUN

GA

FOSC

MP

CA

de

ER

ICO

RD

IA

Can ale

. MIS

ND

FO

HET A

RAC

LA

DE

ICE

LLE

FEL

CA

SAN

NTA

ME

ULI PRI

LLE

FOO RN O

CA

DEL

VEL E LE

CA LLE

DE CAL LE

RO

VER LLE

CA ’ D’O

SOF IA

C.

SAN TA

CAM PO

LE

CAL

I

TER BO DEI LLE CA

L’ANZ OLO

MAT

TIA

CALL E DE

DEL SABION

O

EN

O

VENIER PISCINA

FOND

RIO TERRÀ

TERRÀ

ADIN

lla O DE L’A M BAZIA iser icor dia

TRE VIS AN

CA LLE

DA

DEL

C.

A ROS DEL LE

IEL

CAL

PAN CAM DEL

INA REG LA DE LE

CAL STU A

LA DE

FON DAM ENTA

DA PONTE DOGE DEL CALLE

TTI NTOFFE SANGIA

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

GIU STIN IAN

EUF EMI A BEA TA CAL LE

INI CAR FOS RÀ TER

Moise

RIO

CANONI DE LA

CA

I

A

RIO

GNESE

RUG

E DEL CALL

LI LIPO TA E STRE

DURO RE DORSO

CALLE

MARCO

Salute

San Gregorio

FONDAMENTA

SANT'A

I MARTIR

San

RIDOTTO

MENTA

ZZA

ESSO

TREDIC

CALLE

FONDA

SAN

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

RC

Museo Correr

VALLAR

CALLE

NANI

San Gio

DEL

CAMPO SAN ZUAN NOVO

LARGA

Basilica di San Marco

MA

CALLE

TA

EDIO REM LE CAL

CALLE DE

CALLE

I BALON

O PELL CAP

SAN

SIONE

AMEN

FRUTARIOLI

CORTE

ASCEN

FOND

FON

TRA GHE TO

IO MEG

E

NO A

DEL CAL LE

TER RIO

O ROCC

NESI ALBA E DEI CALL

CALL

SESTIE FOSCARI CALLE

Pa Q Sta

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

o

LARGA

Palazzo Genovese

CALLE DEL BASTION

CORTE

E DI CALL

STA

FOR

N SA

DEL

A

LE

AD

CAL

LIZ SA

UE GR LE

INA TI

DE

RM

TA

CA

EN

AD

AM

LIZ

ND

SA

FO

DO ON SEC A’

ZO MEZ

HIVIO

L’ARC E DRIO CALL

E SAN CALL

Santa M Formo

BANDE

CORTE

DEL FORNO

C.DEI

CA

PIA

CALLE

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

DE LE

O

E

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

Palazz

O

EREMIT

ZUL IAN

ETT

MENTA

CALLE VERRO DEL CCHIO

LAR

E

LE

RT

CAL

CO

ETTI,

ET RS

FA

TE

RIO

BINA

COLOM

CALLE

,

QUERIN

CALLE

GO

FONTE

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

SALITA

GA LAR LE CAL

CRI STO

LO EL RI E LL CA

F. CONDULMER

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

IA RER CE LA DE C.

CCA E SBIA CALL I SE GU RA A RG LA

LLE

CA TAS

Rio Del

EOL

OTTI

O

San Giuliano

E BIAN CALL

ALL CAV

ORS

DEI CORTELL

O SAT MUS

SAN

CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

DEL

A ENT

DEL TRAGHETTO

CALLE

FORNO

DE LE ERBE

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

VAPOR

À

CARRO

Rio

CALLE

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

DEL

MAR ZAR IA

PIGN OLI

LE CAL

GIO ROLO DELL’O

TER

C.

DAM

SARTOR

CALLE

CALLE

I HIER SPEC

CA

TI,

RIO T ERÀ FA R S

TE LE CAL

MIN CA L DE LLE CA

RO SA PE E CA

LL

A CI LU NT A SA

TA

LO

EN

CO

AM

De

e

al

an

C

O TIM RIT

MA

O

RT

PO

NE

ZIO

RE

DI

LIO

IA DAR SPA

I

Sa

CAM SANTI GI E PAO

DEL

LI

O

DEI

Bacino Orseolo

San Moisè

CORTE BAROZZI

LUCATE LLO

C.

RIO LO GAL SAN E CALL CAMPO SAN GALLO

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

CAP

IAPIE RA

BRI FAB

DEL

LICINI

OLINA GRAG LE COLONNE DE

PRIMO INA RAMOCONTAR CORTE

E’

SAN

CORTE

ARIA MARZ

STR

E C.

CALLE

MOIS

SA

CASTEL

E DEI CALL

LE

FON

C. DEL

NA

A

ERIA SEL CAS

DEL

AZZ

DEI

NA

PISCI

XXII MARZO

CALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

DA

LE CAL

I

A DE

IOL

ERIA

PISCIN

LA CHIESA

DRIO

LARGA

GIAZZO

RUBBI

MEZ O

CALL GABRI E

G. GALLIN

LIO

IN

CO

LARGA

CALLE

I

C. LARGA

CORTE

BALO TE

IVO RED

CALLE GOLDONI

VERO

CALLE

OL

CALLE DEL C.MAR PIOMB TINEN O GO D. PALLE

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

DE

ERI

E

CAMPO

CAL LE

BOT

CORTE CORTESE

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOL

CALLE

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

ITELL O CORTE C.DE TRAMONTIN L TAG

LE CAL

LA

MINELL

CORTE

MICHIEL

CALLE

GALIAZ ZO

C. DEL

C.DE

BRI FAB

DE

CALLE

Teatro la Fenice

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

AC

CORTE GRAGOLINA

C.

FRUTAR

DEL

FREZZ

DEI

CAMPIELLO STELLA

MAN

Santa Maria I MIRdei Miracoli

SAN

DEI

C.

CALLE

RTA

DE

Teatro Malibran

SALVAD OR

LE

ONA

CALLE

GA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

N

WID

LE

RIO

DA

r

LE CAL

do

ZZ

LAR

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CAL C O RT E LE VAR B ATA G I A ISCO

IZA

lva

I

SAN

MAR ZARI A DEL

Sa

GA

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

CAMPO SAN LIO

C. DEL

SABION

n

NDE LOCA CALLE

SSIN

ASSA

CAOTO

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

LE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

S.Canciano

X

ZEN MAGA

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

TERÀ

Santa Maria del Giglio

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

V O LT

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

CORTE DEL

Sa

A LUC SAN

CALLE

VER

CALLE

CAL

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CANZIAN A SAN

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

PIO

MARZA RIA

Rio

MA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

FONTEG

San Salvador

C. DE LE COLONNE

AI

RAMO

SALIZA

MAZ ZINI

CORTE

DEL

LE CAL

San Fantin

R

I

R

RIOL

SAL

BO BEM

RO TEAT LE CAL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

OLA MAND

TEATRO BON CAR

SAN

LARG A

SAN SALVADOR

CORTE DEL

DEL

ra

FRUTA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

SALI ZZA DA

Rialto

LE CAL

RO

E VENIE

CAL

BARBA

O

QUE

ze

SARTORI

TERÀ

San Giovanni Grisostomo

LA

ET

CIN

A

DI

A

E

RIO

DE

E

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

E VOLT

COCCO

CAN

C.

DOL

en

TOS OPIA PISC

LLI CAVA

LL

CALL

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

MARCO

ETIE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

Canal Grande

DEL FORNO

E

ZEN

CALLE

DE

NER COR

CA

LE

E CALL

E CALL

om

PIC

ND

ON

FO

SIM SAN ENT A DAM FON

ra

ze

en

m

Sco

O

TIM

RIT

MA

O

SI

ON

ORE

ANG

RT

ULI

C. DEL

N

CAF

CHIES

SALIZADA

ENTA

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

RIO

DEL

DELLA

UZZI

DEI

STU

TI OCA

LE

CALLE

CAPP

CATEN

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

DAM

CALL

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CAMPO MANIN

RNIN PATE

San Maurizio

CALLE

VE

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

DEL

CALL

MAN

BOT EGH E

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

E

GO

LE

À

AVV

CAL

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

GNES

E CALL

TER

LE

NT'A

TEA TR O

RIO

SI

CAMPO PISANI

NO

REA

SALIZAD

Teatro Carlo Goldoni E CALL

C.SA

NANI

VA

CAL LE

Palazzo Grimani

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

PRI

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

San Beneto San Luca

Santo Stefano

San Vidal

ENT A

San Silvestro

de ran

SAN

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

CALLE

ZI

Sc

TE

RINA

FOND.

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

DE L

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

San Trovaso

DEL

Palazzo Fortuny

Palazzo Loredan

. S.AND

DAM

DEI

GALIZ

. NARI

FOND

Santa Sofia

DA

NO

CAL

NO RAVA

DEL

DEI

LE

RA

LE

ETA

RUGH

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

S. Samuele

ST

PAR

CAM DEL PIEL SAN LO SON I

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

CAL

le

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

MUT I

C.

DE

CATE

CAL

ANI GRIM

CHI TODES

na

EN

CALLE

TA

FON

FON

CAL

PO

AM

ENTA

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

E CALL

C. DEI

OZZE CARR

FOND

CRO SER A

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele LE

STU A

CAL

NE

LA

A

ZIO

CA’

FORNO

E UEL SAM

DAM

SAN

HE BRIC FAB

DE

BOT A

DEL

S.

FON

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

ZEL

RE

N

DON

DI

ND

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

ERA

ttim a

DEL

Sant’Aponal

E DOL

ari

MI

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

LE SAMUE

DA IZA SAL

E DE CALL

IN

LE

LA

CALL

eM

RA

OL

C.

ion

ND

AP

LA

CA’

VEC CHI CORT A E LEZZE

Ca' Rezzonico

TR

DE

CAL LE DE

AMP ANE

RIN PEST

DEI LAVRANE

CAR

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

SERA

SACCA

FO

w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 1

FISOLA

LARGA

TA

CAMPO SAN BENETO CA LLE

A S. PISCIN

CALLE

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

LE

al G

SESTIERE DI SAN MARCO

E CRO

CAL LE RAMO

ZATTER

CHIESA

DE

Sant'Angelo

S. Toma' SX

MENTA

DELLA

' VE

S.Silvestro

Can Palazzo Giustinian Persico

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

FONDA

CALLE

CAL LE

CARAMPANE À

LE CAL

San Tomà

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

TER

E DEL CALL

LON

RIO

IER

LINI

EN

San Cassiano

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

ENTA

AM

CAMPO APONAL

Giudecca Hilton

San Gerardo

L’AG NEL LA

FAL

Giudecca Hilton

BIAGIO

DE

LE

FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

SACCA

INI

Abazia Rdella Misericordia D IA

ND

DON SAN PER

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

BON

TE

C.

CORTE DEL TEATRO

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

A

O

A

LET

CAL

DAM

IC

DE

CAMPO SAN CASSAN

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE BERNARDO

FON

PON

ZI

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO DEI FRARI

Ca' Rezzonico

I

DEI TIOZ

O

SANT

ER

RUG

SCA

CALL

OGNI

TA

IS

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

LE

DE INC INI

DEL

TOMÀ

San Barnaba

EN

M

FO

CAL

HETT

. DE

E AL

NT AR

San Felice

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

TRAG

O

TA

CAL LE

CA’BCAL ONVLE

C.

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

SAN

OR

E DEL

L’ASE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

AM

Santa Fosca

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

nde Canal Gra

Ca

NT

Accademia

FOND

TER

TE

CALL

E DE

EN

CA

SAN

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

ZAT

L

DO

TTO

CALL

FOMO

DE OGNISAN

NTA

DE

BOL

GHE

S. Basilio

CO

GO RTE OPO SOT

C.

TRA

ENTA

TA

a de

DE

SER

E RENIE

TI

AME

EN

nn

rto

MADONA

CRO

ND

NA

SAN POLO

DEL

FONDAM

FOD

AM

do

ll'O

AM

E TRON

E ZANE

LE

LE

ALE

DE LA

I

CAL

DD

RAMO

PRET

D

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALL

ER

TTO

E DEI

FO

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CAL

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

CALL

ORE

N

N

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

AL

CALLE

TALO

Chiesa di Ognissanti

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

ND

Ma

C.

TERÀ

MA

CAMPO SAN STIN

Basilica dei Frari

TINT

LA

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

O

DORSODURO

IO

FO

lla

S.Stae

CAL

oS taz

C.

MEZ

DEI PUTI

BESAG

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

DA SAN

OCHE

E

DE

CALLE

IAN

DORSODURO

E LE

CALL

SAN

LE

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

SPORCAE CALLE PAZIENZ DE LE

AST

SALIZA

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

LE

E

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

E

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZ

SEB

CALLE SAN BASILIO

LA TT

À D E

SA

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

OCH

C.VE

LA

RIO

CAL

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

SAN

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

San Sebastiano

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

CALLE ORSETTI

O NZAT

DE

CALLE DELL'OLIO

Car

Santa Maria dei Carmini

A ENT

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

I

TI

TER

E C AN

La Maddalena

L’ISOLA

DE LA VIDA

TOR

del

RAMO

TIN

min

I

Rio

DAM

DON

TA

FO de Serv N.D AN i IEL

R

Casino di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

DEL

IAT

DE

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

LE

BR

FON

LAR

N

CANAL RIO TERA’

NI

O

LE

OT

EN

R

C. DE

DIA

TA

TERA’

CAL

I

ESI

RIO TERA’

AR

EN

o de

ETTI MOR

NE

GU

AM

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

I

EO

LLE

ND

AM

San Rocco

Mu

SSA

RIELO

CAL

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

CAL

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

DEL

a

S.Marcuola

RUGA BELA

A

San Pantalon

RO

FO

Angelo Raffaele

IA

CIM

N

le

PAN

NUOVO

I

NTA

LORENZ

OLO

C. SAN

CALLE CASE NUOVE

LE

DAR O

de

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

i

RE

NIC SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CAL

LAC

tini

CALL

icordi

FO

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

CALLE

Miser

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

I

FON

RAM

CIM

A SAN

O

della

LE CAL

SIM

BASEG

RIO

USE

ME

DE L’OGIO

L' ARZE

A A MART SANT

LA

CALL

CALLE

MENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

DA

CALLE

TA DE

TA

L

RZ

E DEL PISTO

San Marcuola

RUGA VECCHIA

BAR

N

I

DEI FONTEGH

CA

AMEN

AMEN

DE

LA

ete

RAG

FOND

FOND

MATTA DI CA’

NA

IO

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

DEI

SA

URATI

BAR

TA

GA

A OV

CERER

LE

DE

gh

IZAD

Rio dei Tolen

FONDA

BIAS

DI

LAR

NU CH

DEI

CA

E

ND

O SAL

O

VA

A

AS

MENTA

FON

FONDA

ERI

CALLE

C.

ne

OTT

Rio

DIETRRIO TERÀ O LA CHIE

DEL REMER

CALLE DE LA LACA

ESI

Ma

Madonna dell'Orto

'ORT

CAMPO FON DAM D E I M O R I ENT A DEI MOR I

IA

RIO

CAMPIELLO

ZO

CAL

O

ENT A MIN

RD

Rio

CALL

San Leonardo

C.

NG

AM

MADON

LA

A RIVA

LIS

FO

LE

DE

RT

CAL

PAZ CAM

LE

Rio

Del

ICO

EONARDO

A

CAL

A

CALLE

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

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SAN LEONARDO

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STAY IN TOUCH

Much loved and widely photographed, Burano is famous for its handcrafted lace, colourful houses and crooked bell tower.

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Several charming destinations In Veneto, infused with nature, history and art.

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Contents

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MAY 2019

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VENICE CITY GUIDE

The creative universe of Canaletto and his contemporaries, their skillful use of light and the realism of details in portrayals of Venice are showcased in the rooms of MUR Palazzo Ducale.

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WELCOME TO ITALY ON THE TRAIL OF LEONARDO Dear Visitor, welcome to Italy! 2019 is the year in which Italy will be overflowing with celebrations marking the 500th anniversary of the death of Leonardo da Vinci, the man who more than any other, represents Italy throughout the world. Andrea Jarach Several cities including Milan, Florence and Rome Publisher ® will host a series of special events. The full program Where of Italian exhibitions and events honouring Leonardo throughout 2019 can be found on the pages of Where®. We invite you to discover the country that gave life to the person considered the world over as one of history’s greatest thinkers. While visiting Italy you’ll understand why only Italy could have given birth to this man whose creative mind shaped the intellectual, social, cultural, and political facets of European life from the fifteenth century onwards. Leonardo made an indelible contribution to philosophy, nature, medicine and art. All that now remains is for us to look for the traces left by the enigmatic Leonardo. You’ll find them in whatever part of Italy you’re visiting. If you happen to find them, please share your comments, with your photo, on our social media. By the end of the year, we’d like to collect a gallery of the friends of Italy. Happy hunting!

YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

www.whereitalia.com/venice PROEDI MEDIA  WHERE

Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 info@whereitalia.com www.whereitalia.com/venice PUBLISHER AND EDITORINCHIEF

Andrea Jarach (andrea.jarach@whereitalia.com) MANAGING DIRECTOR

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Alessandra Finzi (redazione@whereitalia.com) CONTRIBUTORS

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SAVE THE DATE A film dedicated to Leonardo – which has won numerous awards in the USA – featuring authentic sets and works of art. Shot in the USA, France and Germany, the extraordinary make-up of the actor, plus a choreographic recital that embodies the character of Leonardo, gives back to us his complete and invaluable story. A film directed and interpreted by Massimiliano Finazzer Flory who skillfully combines the original linguistics of Renaissance Italian with modern-day technology. English surtitles. “Being Leonardo da Vinci. An Impossible Interview” 14 and 15 May Cinema Giorgione. Cannaregio, 4612. Vaporetto line 1, Ca’ d’Oro stop. For info and reservations: www.finazzerflory.com

Maria Granata (maria.granata@whereitalia.com) CUSTOMER SERVICES

Cristina Garbini (cristina.garbini@whereitalia.com) REG. TRIB. MILANO NO. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL  ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE BG

Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

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MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

2 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2019


08.05.2019 — 24.11.2019

T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI

LA REGOLA DEL SOGNO UN’INSTALLAZIONE DI | AN INSTALLATION BY

FORNASETTI

APERTO TUTTI I GIORNI. INGRESSO LIBERO | OPEN EVERY DAY. FREE ENTRY Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi, Ponte di Rialto, Venezia Vaporetto: Rialto (L1, L2) www.tfondaco.com ‒ Seguici | Join us  


[ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in town 2

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important catholic church in the city. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. 1 PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doge sit not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. 2 4 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2019

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CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Grand Canal is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. Almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon, the Punta della Dogana former harbour stands at an important point. Today it hosts important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection. 3 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its

name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. 4 TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. 5 PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a


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MORE ON PAGE 39 SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE This small island is part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark’s square and is part of the San Marco sestiere. The church of San Giorgio Maggiore is one of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio. The monumental complex of the former Benedectine monastery (founded in the 10th century) is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre hosting ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’ cultural project, devoted to the study and appreciation of 20th century Venetian glass art. 10 LIDO DI VENEZIA The narrow strip of land that extends for a dozen kilometres in front of Venice, dividing the Lagoon from the Adriatic sea, is an island, a town with its own history and a natural reserve, but also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels, the Palazzo del Cinema and exclusive Art Nouveau villas. The Lido offers beach lovers 15 km of fine sandy beaches, from the lighthouse of Punta Sabbioni to the picturesque town of Cavallino. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. 11 THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’. Here you can admire ancient synagogues, the ‘tower houses’, the ‘schole’ and the workshops. 12 pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It includes as many as 120 steps. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it, but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. 6 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità and a complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. 7

SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO A rare gem of Venetian architecture, just steps from Campo San Manin: a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. 8 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. 9

THE ISLANDS Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello or Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories. Burano is one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. It is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. 13 14 15 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 5


WHERE NOW | EXPERIENCE

gondola

All about the

6 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2019


Everyone knows that the gondola is − Venice’s most typical craft: made from 8 different types of wood, gondolas are constructed in boat yards called ‘squeri’ by gondola builders – the ‘squeraroli’ and ‘maestri d’ascia’ (masters of the ax) – who have been in this line of work since the 11th century.

Private gondolas no longer exist and the last person who owned one was art heiress Peggy Guggenheim.

Every gondola is 11 metres long, 1.40 metres wide and 0.65 metres high. The oar is made of beech and the ‘forcola’, the stylized

oarlock, is made of walnut. Eight kinds of different wood are used to build a gondola – oak, elm, lime, larch, fir, cherry, walnut, and mahogany. The only parts in metal are the ‘ferro’ in the front and the ‘risso’ at the back. It’s not easy to become a professional − gondolier. Requirements include attending a special school, passing a public competition set by the ‘Ente Gondola’ and being apprenticed to a professional gondolier for 6 to 12 months. The final step includes passing a rigorous practical exam. Traditionally, only men were allowed to − be gondoliers. The first female gondolier

– or gondoliera – was licensed in 2010. Giorgia Boscolo, the daughter of 40-year gondolier veteran, was the first to pass the requirements and obtain a license. One of the few remaining ‘squeri’ till − operating today in Venice is located in the sestiere of Dorsoduro near San Trovaso (see photo), between the Accademia and the Zattere. The building housing the ‘squero’ resembles a typical mountain chalet because, traditionally, gondola builders came from the Veneto mountains of Cadore. Following its construction, the gondola is lowered into the water via a slide – a celebratory moment (www.squerosantrovaso.com).

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

MAY

HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA

8 W H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2019


MAY ART BIENNALE 2019

11 24 MAY

NOVEMBER

“MAY YOU LIVE IN INTERESTING TIMES” The 58th Art Biennale, curated by Ralph Rugoff, opens with a thought-provoking title, in which the expression ‘interesting times’ evokes the idea of the challenging, possibly even threatening times, that are reflected in the works exhibited. Seventy nine artists from all over the world and 90 countries, including 5 five new international participations, offer their vision of contemporary art in the historic Pavilions at the Giardini, the Arsenale and in Venice’s historic centre. The main exhibition is flanked by 21 fringe events, at numerous locations scattered across the city of Venice, and are open to the public. Venice Biennale. 58th International Art Exhibition. “May You Live In Interesting Times” Giardini and Arsenale www.labiennale.org #BiennaleArte2019 #MayYouLiveInInterestingTimes

Ralph Rugoff

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES LIVE MUSIC

23

INTERNATIONAL JAZZ

The star of Veneto Jazz’s latest Jazz& event is young Israeli trombonist Reut Regev. Her project Reut Regev’s R*time MAY combines a search for sonic sophistication with a kaleidoscope of sounds, rhythms and musical flavours, the result of a 15-year collaboration with her husband, drummer and co-composer Igal Foni. The joyful, modern style of this rich musical production is enhanced by the artist’s exceptional technical skill. Free entry subject to booking: fondaco.culture@dfs.com. Reut Regev’s R*time (8.30pm). T Fondaco dei Tedeschi Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi. www.venetojazz.com

GLASS ART

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FINNISH DESIGN IN MURANO

▲ Tapio Wirkkala (19151985), a leading figure of modern Finnish art, has MAY SEPTEMBER a portfolio ranging from sculpture to industrial design. This year, the Fondazione Musei Civici di Venezia is presenting an exhibition focusing on glass, a material that was central to Wirkkala’s work. The show features a selection of glasses, artistic glass created using diverse artisanal techniques, industrial glass objects, lamps and glass bowls, several of which were the result of the designer’s years of collaboration with Venini.

Tapio Wirkkala. Murano, Glass Museum. Glass museum. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. museovetro.visitmuve.it TAPIO WIRKKALA, BOLLE, TAPIO WIRKKALA RUT BRYK FOUNDATION COLLECTION / EMMA – ESPOO MUSEUM OF MODERN ART. PHOTO MATTI SILVENNOINEN / TAPIO WIRKKALA RUT BRYK FOUNDATION ARCHIVE

ONE MAN SHOW

8 22

A COMBINATION OF SURREAL AND ABSTRACT ART

► The first Italian retrospective dedicated to Arshile Gorky at Ca' Pesaro features loans from several of the world’s most prestigious museums, which document the stages of the Armenian-American artist’s remarkable career. More than 80 paintings and works on paper, from the 1920s to the high point of his studies as a self-taught artist, reconstruct Gorky’s rich output and rediscovery of nature and the landscapes of Virginia and Connecticut from an unusual perspective.

MAY

SEPTEMBER

Arshile Gorky: 1904-1948. Ca’ Pesaro – Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna. Santa Croce 2076. capesaro.visitmuve.it

10 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2019


MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-VENICE

LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE www.teatrolafenice.it

TATIANA TROUVÉ. THE GUARDIAN, 2018. PINAULT COLLECTION. © ADAGP TATIANA TROUVÉ, PARIS. COURTESY THE ARTIST AND KAMEL MENNOUR, PARIS/LONDON. PHOTO: FLORIAN KLEINEFENN

CONTEMPORARY ART

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DECEMBER

TATIANA TROUVÉ. THE GUARDIAN,2018. PINAULT COLLECTION © ADAGP TATIANA TROUVÉ, PARIS. COURTESY THE ARTIST AND KAMEL MENNOUR, PARIS/LONDON PHOTO: FLORIAN KLEINEFENN

WHEN ART BECOMES COLLECTIVE ▲ ‘Luogo e Segni’ takes its name from a painting by Carol Rama that is included in the exhibition, which brings together over 100 works by thirty artists, who have established a particular relationship with their urban, social, political, historic and intellectual context. The artists’ work, presented for the first time at Punta della Dogana, interacts with several works that were formerly hosted at important exhibitions at this Venetian venue. In addition the exhibit includes a rich program of events, performances and meetings open to the public.

Luogo e Segni. Punta della Dogana. Dorsoduro, 2. www.palazzograssi.it

OPERA 2, 5 May DORILLA IN TEMPE by Antonio Vivaldi at Malibran Theatre Diego Fasolis, conductor Fabio Ceresa, director Massimo Checchetto, sets Giuseppe Palella, costumes 10, 12, 17, 19, 21, 24, 25, 29 May TURANDOT by Giacomo Puccini Daniele Callegari, conductor Cecilia Ligorio, director Alessia Colosso, sets Simone Valsecchi, costumes Fabio Barettin, lighting 18, 22, 23, 26, 28, 30, 31 May and 1 June AIDA by Giuseppe Verdi Riccardo Frizza, conductor Mauro Bolognini replicated by Bepi Morassi, director Mario Cerioli, sets Aldo Buti, costumes Giovanni Di Cicco, choreographer

PASSION

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AN OLFACTORY VOYAGE

▲ An interactive, multi-sensory exhibition infused with spices and mysterious substances. Visitors, immersed in a time warp, will embark on a journey into the world and history of perfume, consisting of discoveries, MAY OCTOBER love affairs, betrayals, challenges and legends. Perfume, which inspired Venetian merchants, over the centuries, to cross oceans and travel to far-off lands, comes to life in drawings by Guido Fuga, a friend and collaborator of cartoonist Hugo Pratt, and in the perfumed stories signed by Joan Giacomin.

CARNET DE VOYAGE. Illustrated Perfume A project by Mavive and The Merchant of Venice. Palazzo Mocenigo. Santa Croce, 1992. mocenigo.visitmuve.it

CHAMBER MUSIC MUSIKÁMERA 4, 5 May at Sale Apollinee Music by Robert Franz, Robert Schumann, Gabriel Fauré, Johannes Brahms Georges Starokinski, piano Christian Immler, baritone 11, 12 May at Sale Apollinee Music by Johannes Brahms Trio Kanon, ensemble 16 May at Sale Apollinee Music by Cesar Franck, Fryderyk Chopin, Sergej Prokofiev, Pablo Sarasate Gaia Trionfera, violin Martina Consonni, piano

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES EXHIBITION

10 28 MAY

CHAMBER MUSIC

JULY

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MATTER AS A WORK OF ART ► After a 30-year hiatus, Venice’s Fondazione Cini is showcasing a major exhibition dedicated to Alberto Burri. The reconstruction of various stages of the career of the renowned ‘master of matter’ with fifty works from important Italian and foreign museums, the Burri Foundation and prestigious private collections. Several of Burri’s most famous masterpieces from the Tar, Moulds, Combustions, Woods, Plastics and later, the Cellotex series, are flanked by a multimedia section. Other highlights include rare films showing Burri in action.

MAY

A MUSICAL VOYAGE FROM VENICE TO LONDON

▲ Set against the picturesque backdrop of St. George’s Anglican Church, Venetia Antiqua, the ensemble of the Venice Music Project, takes audiences on a journey from Venice to London, enthralling them with several of the greatest musical masterpieces of both cities. Well-known pieces of chamber music composed by H.Purcell, J.Dowland and G.F.Handel, sung by renowned soprano Liesl Odenweller, are interwoven with often forgotten masterpieces.

BURRI la pittura, irriducibile presenza Fondazione Giorgio Cini. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore, Venezia. www.cini.it

St. George’s Anglican Church. Campo San Vio. www.venicemusicproject.it

ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE MAY Biennale Arte 2019 (11 May-24 November, Arsenale and Giardini) > The 58th International Art Exhibition, titled ‘May You Live In Interesting Times’ is organized by La Biennale di Venezia and curated by Ralph Rugoff, currently the director of the Hayward Gallery in London. JUNE Festa della Sensa or Ascension festivity (1-2 June) > A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony Vogalonga (9 June) > 45th edition of the 30 km rowing marathon from the Northern lagoon to the islands: a colourful event open to both professionals and amateurs.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER Biennale Cinema 2019 International Film Festival (28 August-7 September) > 76th Venice Film Festival organized by La Biennale di Venezia. SEPTEMBER Regata Storica / Historic Regatta (1 September) > One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions.

DECEMBER Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica (16-17 December) > The event is organized by Teatro La Fenice with the Cappella Marciana Soloists.

The Venice Glass Week (7-15 September) An international festival dedicated to the art of glass-making, with a focus on creations made in Murano.

JANUARY 2020 New Year’s Eve Concert (1 January 2020) >17th edition of the traditional New Year’s Concert.

OCTOBER Venice Fashion Week (17-26 October)

Regata delle Befane (6 January 2020) > A costumed race between members of the Bucintoro, the oldest rowing company in Venice.

Feast of San Piero de Casteo (26-30 June)

Venice Marathon (27 October)

JULY Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer (20-21 July) > One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks.

NOVEMBER Teatro La Fenice Concert Season Opening (beginning of November) Opera and Ballet Season Opening (End of November)

12 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2019

Festa della Salute (21 November) > A popular religious feast day with a temporary bridge crossing over the Grand Canal set up.

FEBRUARY 2020 Carnival of Venice (8-25 February2020) > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces.


WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS

Burano, the rainbow island

14 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2019


Burano is one of Venice’s islands. Much loved and widely photographed, it is famous for its handcrafted lace, colourful houses and crooked bell tower. Burano is a picturesque oasis of peace, where you can sample delicious fish dishes and discover artists unknown to the public at large. BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI

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any international tourism magazines have described Burano as ‘one of the 10 most colourful locations in the world’, but this island of approximately 3,000 inhabitants, located in Venice’s Northern Lagoon, northeast of Murano, is much more. While strolling through its narrow alleys and ‘campielli’ you’ll be struck by its old-world atmosphere. You’ll see elderly ladies making lace with a bobbin, children running around the streets beneath balconies on which the washing has been hung out to dry in the sun, and fishermen returning from their fishing trips laden with the catch of the day.

BURANO’S COLOURED HOUSES

PH © REBIUS / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

The island’s typical brightly coloured houses are mostly square-shaped and built on two or three floors. Why are they so colourful? The colours of the houses have become one of the island’s main attractions in this era of Instagram, they were once used to define various properties (each colour is simply the symbol of a given family).

HOW TO GET HERE The best way to reach Burano from Venice is via vaporetto line no. 12. The vaporetto leaves from the Fondamenta Nove stop, located between the sestieri of Cannaregio and Castello, at the northern end of Venice. The trip lasts for about 40 minutes with stopovers on the islands of Murano and Mazzorbo. For more information visit Venetian transport website actv.avmspa.it w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 15


PH © MIKEFAI / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS

House of Bepi Suà According to legend, fishermen painted their houses in rainbow hues in order to identify them from afar after returning from long fishing trips. In addition to the colourful houses reflected in the waters of the canal, one of the most beautiful views, for lovers of photography is the crooked bell tower that dominates the historic centre. With the sun setting behind the old fish market, and Venice silhouetted in the background, this is the vista that opens up in front of the ‘Tre Ponti’, a wooden bridge that connects three different banks. While all the houses of Burano are brightly coloured, the house of Bepi Suà is the most colourful of them all. It is decorated with all types of geometric shapes, including circles, squares and triangles, and is painted in multiple shades of yellow, orange, red and blue. The house belonged to a particularly creative inhabitant of the island who painted a new geometric shape on the walls of his home almost every day. After ‘Il Bepi’s’ death, the islanders renovated the house, but maintained its façade. Over the years, his house has become one of the island’s most recognizable symbols. If you want to visit it, you’ll find it behind piazza Galuppi, Burano’s main square. The house can be accessed via a narrow street that leads onto a small ‘campiello’ or square.

LACE, REAL WORKS OF ART Burano’s lace is among the most famous in the world. This traditional art dates back to the 1500s when marvelous masterpieces were created using only a needle and thread, with no cloth support. Following the fall of the Republic of the Serenissima, lace working suffered a serious decline, but 16 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2019

Riva Rosa

was revived at the end of the 19th century when the new stitches that transformed the embroidery into real works of art, were introduced. This is an art form that continues to be handed down. In summer, you can still see elderly lace-makers chatting to one another while they work in the island’s narrow streets. Legend has it that a fisherman, who was betrothed to a local girl, managed to resist the call of the legendary sirens. The queen of the sirens was so impressed by the young man’s loyalty to his fiancée that she gifted him with a wedding veil made of sea foam. The women of the island were so envious of the magnificent veil that they decided to try to recreate it using needles and thread. Hence, the traditional working of lace began

on the island. To learn more about this and other interesting facts related to the world of Burano lace, you can visit the Lace Museum. The museum, located at Burano’s School of Lace, features a display of more than 100 exquisite items, several of which date back to the 16th century. While visiting the museum, you can also consult a historic archive and watch lace-makers at work (museomerletto.visitmuve.it).

THE HEART OF BURANO Burano consists of four islands, separated by three internal canals: Rio Pontinello, Rio Giudecca and Rio Terranova. Like Venice, it is divided into five ‘sestieri’ (districts), separated by the above-mentioned canals, on which the address code is based. The real centre


PH © STEVANZZ / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Bussolà mignon

of the town is piazza Baldassare Galuppi. The square is named after Burano’s revered composer of comic opera, Baldassare Galuppi, also known as ‘Il Buranello’. One of the square’s landmark attractions is the church of San Martino, the only official church on the island, renowned for its famous crooked bell tower, the result of a structural failure in its foundations. In addition to its ornate interiors, the church hosts several notable works of art, including a famous Crucifixion by Gian Battista Tiepolo. Located just a short distance away, another must-visit attraction is the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. After being deconsecrated in 1810, the church was used as a ’squero’ or boatyard and later as a workshop for the construction of carnival floats. Today, it is used as a venue to host exhibitions and events. Piazza Galuppi is also home to the Town Hall, a cylindrical well divided into five sectors crafted entirely in Istrian stone, and to the statue of Baldassare Galuppi by Remigio Barbaro, a well-known Buranese sculptor.

WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT IN BURANO

Lace Museum

Because it was originally an island of fishermen, Burano is renowned, first and foremost, for its fresh fish dishes, including ‘spaghetti alle vongole’ or spaghetti with squid ink. Its most famous recipe is ‘risotto di Gò’, risotto cooked in the broth of the gò, a typical type of lagoon fish, known in the rest of Italy as ‘ghiotto’ or goby. Try it at one of the best traditional restaurants of the Lagoon, Trattoria da Romano (www. daromano.it). Burano’s trattorias are both typical and authentic, and you’ll probably eat better here, and at half the price, than at most tourist restaurants in Venice.

Get your tour Are you interested in discovering the hidden corners of Burano with a local guide, learning about the history of Burano and its neighbouring islands, immersing yourself in the magical atmosphere of this fishermen’s village, or watching lace-makers in action? You can choose from one of many organized tours, including, for example, the tour held by Discoverburano (www.discoverburano.com). If, on the other hand, you’d prefer to visit all the islands of the lagoon in one go, you can opt for a day trip to the islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello. Tours leave from the railway station of Venice or from San Marco (isoladiburano.insidecom.it).

In particular, we recommend Al Gatto Nero, which serves a fabulous assortment of fresh fish starters (www.gattonero.com), and Riva Rosa. The latter is located in the centre of the island, and offers a contemporary, fish-based menu. For romantic evenings, the restaurant’s special feature is a rooftop ‘altana’, a typically Venetian raised wooden terrace, with a small table and a breathtaking view (www.rivarosa.it). If you’re a fan of sweet treats, an absolute must is the island’s typical Bussolà dessert, made from flour, butter and fresh eggs. You can purchase it from Carmelina Palmisano, one of the island’s oldest and most renowned bakery/pastry shops in via Galuppi (www.biscotteriaveneziana.it).

FOR LOVERS OF LOCAL SHOPPING If you want to take home an exquisite item of lace, you’re in the right place. Lovers of local shopping will have a great time browsing the small shops and artisanal workshops scattered throughout the town. An absolute must is a visit to Emilia Burano, in piazza Galuppi. The story of Emilia Burano, is a story of a tradition and craftsmanship, since 1800. Its linen, handmade lace and items for the table, bathroom and bedroom, plus furnishings for yachts, private jets and boutique hotels, have won over Hollywood stars and resulted in prestigious collaborations including one with Aston Martin (www.emiliaburano.it). The same applies to the nearby La Perla Gallery, renowned for its collection of antique lace, exquisite, customizable tablecloths, home linens, furnishing accessories, beautiful silks for clothing and lingerie, children’s wear, exclusive cashmere, silk scarves and Venetian masks (www.laceinvenice.com). In addition to lace, Burano boasts a production of Venetian masks and lampworking, a technique that was invented in the neighbouring island of Murano, but is also widespread on the other islands of the lagoon. You’ll also come across real miniature glass-working factories, including New Arte Fuga, a store located at number 132 of the brightly-coloured Fondamenta Giudecca, hosted inside a charming apple green house. w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 17


WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

GUIDE

► SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER

The ‘Ca’ d’Oro’ pendant by Salvadori reinterprets the interplay of the solids and voids of the fretwork decorating this Venetian Gothic palazzo overlooking the Grand Canal. www.salvadori-venezia.eu

This month, spending a little time in search of a new accessory, a jewel or a special gift, becomes even more pleasurable. Take advantage of a stroll through the picturesque ‘calli’ of Venice to treat yourself to some alluring detail of style. Where guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!

ERCOLE MORETTI

The Venetian tradition of glassmaking lives on in this millefiori Murano glass bowl, a typical expression of exquisite Muranese craftsmanship. Available at T Fondaco dei Tedeschi luxury department store. www.ercolemoretti.it www.dfs.com

®

▲ TOD'S This slip-on in velvety suede with a stamped Tod's monogram, exposed stitching, woven crafted cord appliqued to the bottom of the shoe and rubber outsole with embossed rubber pebbles is a casual, on-trend accessory. www.tods.com

► POTPOURRÌ These exclusive raffia bags, available in different sizes, are the new icons of the Pot-Pourrì collection. Featuring futurist designs, these sought-after accessories are an expression of pure creativity and style. www.potpourri.it

18 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2019

► CA’ MACANA Designed by one of the world’s most famous mask-making workshops, this handmade ‘Federica 7’ Colombina eye-mask features a skillful combination of gold, red and orange hues. www.camacana.com

NARDI

The ‘Moretto’ is an item of jewelry that best encapsulates the classical image of Shakespeare’s Othello and the refined goldsmith’s techniques of 18th-century Venice. These 18-carat gold and silver cufflinks feature rubies or fancy colored diamonds. www.nardi-venezia.com


R O S A

M O C E N I G A

VENEZIA • VERONA • MILANO FIRENZE • ROMA • DUBAI THEMERCHANTOFVENICE.COM


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when crossing it and because the city’s mint was located at its easternmost end. In 1250, its wooden piles were replaced by a mobile structure and its name was changed to the Rialto bridge. A dark period followed. In fact, during this time, the bridge collapsed and was damaged several times. It was only in 1588 that the Senate of the Serenissima decided to announce a competition to finally rebuild a stone bridge. Numerous renowned architects submitted their projects, including Sansovino, Vignola and Palladio. However the daring but scenically impact-making design submitted by the aptly named Antonio da Ponte was chosen. His bridge consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch span, supported by a broad rectangular deck carrying two arcades of shops and ‘botteghe’ fronting on three roadways. Legend has it that da Ponte was visited by Satan himself who, in exchange for his help, asked the architect to pledge the soul of the first person crossing the bridge to him. The architect thought that he would trick Satan by having a cock cross the bridge for the first time. However, on learning about this deception, Satan vindicated himself by tricking da Ponte’s pregnant wife into crossing the bridge. Her child was stillborn, and according to legend, its soul wandered haplessly, for years, on the Rialto bridge, until a gondolier finally helped it to cross over to the other side.

Even the famous street market boasts a storied past. In fact, historic documents testify to its presence way back in 1097 when it was much larger than its current counterpart and sold exotic goods and spices and precious fabrics. THE FAMOUS MARKET. Currently Venice’s market par excellence, it is divided into the Pescaria, where fish caught in the lagoon are sold, and the Erbaria, whose vendors sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit and vegetables. Although a visit to this market means elbowing one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, the market nevertheless boasts two gems of historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime and symbolic decorations, including a number of esoteric elements that are mixed in with the fish, lobsters and octopi sculpted on the capitals of its colonnade. More attentive visitors will also notice a marble plaque embedded in one of its red brick facades,

which shows regulations set centuries ago for minimum allowable sizes for lagoon fish. FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS. However, Rialto also means shopping. While strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when crossing its bridge, you’ll come across several unusual shops that are imbued with the atmosphere of a bygone era. These include antique shops, artisans’ workshops, old book binding shops where books are still bound according to time-honoured tradition, and jewelry stores selling original creations made from Murano glass beads. On the other hand, those in search of an amazing experience, should head to the old post office which now houses the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS, a lavish, high-end department store and a magnificent feat of architecture that has been updated to brilliantly balance the old with new. The building boasts a marvelous terrace offering visitors a 360-degree view over Venice.

A HUB OF COMMERCE The Rialto Bridge is the dividing line between the districts of San Marco and San Polo. It is lined on both sides by shops, and includes 120 steps. Right, the Rialto Market, a one-of-akind place crowded with Venetians and tourists. Below, the Erbaria market selling fruit and vegetables, and the Pescaria (fish market).

w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 21


WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

All the allure of the region Veneto is one of the most visited regions in Europe and offers several attractive destinations for a fun, relaxing out-of-town experience. The cities are well connected by train but as an alternative you can either hire a car or a car with a driver. BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO

Half an hour by train from Venice Treviso: the city is a small gem, which can be visited entirely on foot. Lying at the heart of the city, just a stone’s throw from the station, Piazza dei Signori is the ideal spot to stop and enjoy either a local Proseccobased aperitivo, or a light lunch. The area’s neighbouring streets are packed with elegant shops, cut across by pretty canals offering lots of fabulous photo opportunities. Both the city’s Casa dei Carraresi and the Santa Caterina museum host important art exhibitions. While in the area, make sure to sample radicchio di Treviso, a homegrown specialty. A go-to destination for a snack is the Osteria dalla Gigia, Via Barberia, 20, whose signature dish is ‘mozzarelle in carrozza’, a type of fried cheese sandwich. Padua: home to one of the oldest universities in the world, Padua is a city deserving an entire day’s sightseeing. Among the list of things to do, top sights include the Scrovegni Chapel, Giotto’s masterpiece, but also the famous Church of Sant’Antonio, a pilgrimage site and the burial place of St Anthony of Padua (1193–1231). The city is also home to the oldest botanical garden in the world, planted in 1545 by Padua’s

Vicenza, Teatro Olimpico

Padua, Scrovegni Chapel 22 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2019

A UNIQUE BLEND OF HISTORY AND ART Top. One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels, the Teatro Olimpico is included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites. Left, Giotto’s magnificent frescoes, covering the walls of Padua's Scrovegni Chapel, narrate events in the lives of the Virgin Mary and Christ. Above, Piazza delle Erbe in Verona was the town's forum during the time of the Roman Empire. Right, the beautiful castle of Miramare (10 km from Trieste) offers a charming panoramic view.

PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK

Verona, Piazza delle Erbe


University medical faculty to study the medicinal properties of rare plants. A new area dedicated to bio-diversity was also recently added, opening up new prospects for the future. In terms of gastronomy, local specialties include a variety of cold cuts and the city’s signature ‘gallina padovana’ which you can taste at the Ai Navigli restaurant in Via Riviera Tiso, 11. La Folperia in Piazza della Frutta is an absolute must for an aperitivo. It’s a simple kiosk selling local fish specialties and the king of street food par excellence. One hour by train from Venice Vicenza: if you’re a fan of Renaissance architecture, take a train and head to Vicenza. Its main square houses the famous basilica designed by Andrea Palladio, the most important architect of the High Renaissance. The entire life of the city revolves around the Basilica. Palladio also designed the city’s renowned Teatro Olimpico. This Renaissance marvel is well worth a visit or, failing that, a ticket to one of the many live shows performed here. Stop at a restaurant and sample the city’s famous ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ (Vicenza-style codfish) served with polenta. The people of Vicenza are so proud of this dish that the city even has a confraternity dedicated to keeping the 500-year-old recipe of ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ alive, and, believe it or not, there is also a codfish ice cream flavour. The go-to address is El Coq in Piazza dei Signori, where the chef enjoys creating innovative dishes using this important ingredient of Veneto cuisine.

TOWARDS VIENNA WITH THE NEW “SPIRIT OF VENICE” While air travel to North America has increased (in May 2017 American Airlines inaugurated a direct route from Venice to Chicago), rail travel to Europe has also grown. One of the best ways to enjoy spectacular panoramic Alpine views is by train. For the past few months it’s been possible to travel from Venice to Austria by train with two daily connections, thanks to OBB, an Austrian railway company. The new Railjet “The Spirit of Venice” connects Venice to the Austrian cities of Villach, Klagenfurt and Vienna safely and comfortably. Amenities include on board Wi-Fi, and there's a top notch dining car for first class passengers. The trip to Vienna lasts eight hours and you can enjoy the changing scenery from the Italian plains to the Austrian Alps. www.obb-italia.com

Trieste, Castle of Miramare Verona: Founded by the Romans in the 1st century AD, the city of Verona is dotted with pretty palazzi, elegant squares and medieval gems. Best-known as home to star-crossed lovers Romeo and Juliet, its major attractions include the Arena, an architectural remnant of the Roman era, and a venue for the city’s annual summer opera festival, the beautiful Castelvecchio Museum and piazza delle Erbe. There are so many churches to see that you’ll be spoilt for choice. No visit would be complete without stopping to see San Zeno, a masterpiece of Italian Romanesque style. When you’re tired of sightseeing, indulge in a break at one of the city’s small ‘osterie’ for a glass of Valpolicella, the famous wine produced just a short distance from here. Before leaving Verona, make sure to head to pasticceria Flego in Piazza Borsari 9, to purchase a box of ‘Baci di Giulietta’, the city’s signature sweet treats made from almonds and walnuts. Bassano del Grappa: this picturesque town lying at the foot of the mountains is renowned for its namesake spirit, grappa. Its Palladian covered wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a highlight of the small historic centre. Also known at the Ponte Vecchio or the Ponte Alpini, it serves as a reminder of the events that took place during World War I. The city is also famous for its centuries-old production of handcrafted ceramics that you can purchase at one of the town’s many shops. While in the area, make sure to book a guided tour of one of the distilleries that produce grappa, Italy’s ‘acquavite’ of choice. One of the most famous is Poli. Located in via Gamba 6, this renowned distillery also boasts a must-visit Grappa Museum. At the end of the tour, guests will be treated to a tasting session, accompanied by sweet or savoury snacks. Opened in

December 2010, and located at number 8 Salita Ferracina, Palazzo delle Misture is the ideal spot for a pre or post-dinner drink. In addition to an excellent selection of local wines, the venue also features an entire room dedicated to absinth, where you can taste historical brands dating from the late 1800s to the early 1900s. Two hours by train from Venice Trieste: just a two-hour train ride from Venice, the city of Trieste is a must-visit destination. The port and its architecture, reminiscent of central European cities, blend to create an elegant, captivating backdrop. When visiting Trieste you can remain in the centre and stroll through its picturesque alleys, or head to Miramare, the beautiful castle built in the late 1850s by Archiduke Maximilian, brother of Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph. Sitting on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea, both the castle – whose interior décor has remained intact – and the park are well worth a visit. A ride on the Opicina tram which connects the centre of Trieste with the village of Villa Opicina in the hills above is definitely unmissable. Inaugurated in 1902, the 'tram de Opicina' (as it’s known in the local dialect) climbs up five kilometers, including 800 meters on a 26% incline, across splendid landscapes and with wonderful views of the gulf. This is a unique opportunity to take some wonderful photos. Trieste is the Mediterranean's main coffee port, and it's also a hub for the coffee industry. In fact, the city is home to Illy, one of the world’s best-known coffee brands. Countless locales bear witness to the city’s history, and, if you head to Piazza Unità d’Italia you can choose your favourite. The best place for an aperitivo is Urbanis, in Piazza della Borsa 15. In addition to other symbols, the venue’s mosaic flooring features the Bora, the wind that blows over Trieste. w w w.wh e re tr ave l e r. com 23


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A hymn to lightness Pomellato has reopened the doors of its Venetian boutique, an elegant, contemporary space showcasing the brand’s latest creations, including the new ‘Brera’ collection. By Giulia Minero

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omellato has unveiled the new look of its boutique in the heart of the city, in Calle Larga XXII Marzo. The boutique was designed to highlight the uniqueness of its new creations in a modern space that focuses on chromatic contrasts and materials. Furnishings, featuring colourful patterns, with optical details, interact with elements in violet velvet and walls in the brand’s signature lacquered ‘Montenapoleone red’, giving the space its striking visual impact. In this play of light and colours, referencing the variety of coloured gemstones found in Pomellato’s jewelry, the latest offerings are showcased in glass and satinized brass display areas. The rings, bracelets, earrings and chokers of the new ‘Brera’ collection are interspersed with 24 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2019

the luminous pavé of diamonds of the ‘Sabbia’ collection and the coloured gemstones of the ‘Nudo’ and ‘M’ama non m’ama’ jewelry. As a tribute to the origins of the Milanese brand and the dynamic, ever-changing face of the artsy Brera district, all the new pieces of jewelry, interpreted in white and rose gold, reinterpret the aesthetic of the brand’s staple chains in a lighter, more youthful way. Superimposed among them, the whisper-thin gourmette chains, embellished with white and brown diamonds, create movement and a sensual play of light and shadows. >> Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2031 T: 041 5231909. Map E5 www.pomellato.com


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

The

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 46-47. TRANSPORTReferences to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING Shopping hours are generally from

10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

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TAXFREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 7,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, Coin Excelsior, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge.

Francis Model

Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3

Giuliana Longo A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hatcupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Macrì This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4•• Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.

Michele De Fina Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am1pm/2pm-7pm. www.micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

ANTIQUES Antichi Splendori Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 5239265. info@antichisplendori.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Antichità San Samuele An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with a particular focus on sculptures dating from the 13th through 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am12.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4

Unique fragrance

The ancient origins of the ‘Rosa Moceniga’ fragrance by The Merchant of Venice are associated with the Venetian art of perfume making. This exquisite, rare flower, that originated in China, was imported from France by Lucia Mocenigo, a close friend of Josephine Bonaparte, who was passionate about these flowers. The name ‘Moceniga’ derives from the ancient Venetian Mocenigo family whose historic residence in Alvisopoli has maintained a garden devoted to the cultivation of this rose for the past two hundred years. The essence created by The Merchant of Venice draws inspiration from this mysterious rose, distinguished by its silvery pink petals and light veining. The head notes seduce with fresh notes of Sicilian bergamot and the sweetness of rose essence, delicately enhanced by black currant leaves. At its heart, this floral bouquet dominated by rose absolute is exalted by hints of magnolia and lotus flowers, while a mixture of musk, white cedar wood and vanilla rounds out the scent for a deep captivating finish. Like all the women’s fragrances of the ‘Murano Collection’, ‘Rosa Moceniga’ is contained in an elegant bottle inspired by exquisite handcrafted glass. www.themerchantofvenice.com Flagship Store San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Spezieria all’Ercole d’Oro Cannaregio, 2233 (Strada Nova, Santa Fosca). T: 041 720600. Concept Store Murano Fondamenta dei Vetrai, 114 (Murano). T: 041 5274297.

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORES T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI BY DFS Tfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3

ALBERTA FERRETTIwww.albertaferretti.com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4 BALENCIAGAwww.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5 BALLYwww.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4

DOLCE&GABBANAwww.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4 ETROwww.etro.com. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5 FENDIwww.fendi.com. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5

For this season, BOTTEGA VENETA has re-visited its hallmark ‘intrecciato’ pattern with 4cm nappa leather strips, known as fettucce, to create the ‘Maxi Cabat 30’, one of the first designs by creative director Daniel Lee.

PRADAwww.prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5

BOGGI MILANOwww.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3

FURLAwww.furla.com. San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4

ROBERTO CAVALLI www.robertocavalli.com San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5

BORSALINOwww.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4

GIORGIO ARMANIwww.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4

ROCCA 1794 www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4

BOTTEGA VENETAwww.bottegaveneta. com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5

GUCCIwww.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie dell'Orologio). T: 041 5229119. Map E5

SAINT LAURENTwww.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 • San marco 2217 (Calle Larga XXII marzo). T: 041 8923010. Map F5

BULGARIwww.bulgari.com. www.bulgari.com. San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4 BURBERRYit.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIERwww.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CELINEwww.celine.com San Marco, 1312 a/b (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201898. Map F4 CHANEL www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL FRAGRANCE & BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/1300. T: 041 2708699. Map F3 CHURCH’Swww.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5 CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). Map F3 T: 041 5229946. DAMIANI www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5 DIOR www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5 26 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2019

HERMÈSitaly.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSSwww.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4 JIMMY CHOOwww.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4 LORO PIANAwww.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695.Map F5 LOUIS VUITTON www.louisvuitton.com. Piazza San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5 MAX MARAit.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Rialto). T: 041 5226688. Map F5 MISSONI www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5

SALVADORIwww.salvadori-venezia.com Diamond Atelier. Piazza S. Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 • Diamond Atelier Cannaregio. Cannaregio, 2342. T: 041 5243211. Map D2 • Rolex Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Map F4 • Panerai Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO www.ferragamo.com San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKIwww.swarovski.com San Marco, 5039 (Marzarieta 2 aprile). T: 041 5210618. Map F4 SWATCHwww.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4 TIFFANY & CO.www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5

MIU MIUwww.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5

TOD’Swww.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5

MONCLERwww.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5

VERSACEwww.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5


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TREVISAN CAMPO DEL by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical concoction also 100 top fashion brands DEL VOLTO location features over PRESTRIN PIO CAMPO com. Santa Vaporetto X Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat 9.30amfor men and women, carefully selected to offer SAN LIO Rialto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map D3 CAMPIELLO San Silvestro CAMPO SANTA MARIA SAL 1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie.com. its clientele quality and elegance. These include IZ A DE FORMOSA DA FONDAMENTA SAN SAN SILVESTRO C. D EL G L IO DEI PRETI lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694. C casual men’s Venetia Studium ALIA ZZO AL LE Fontego Santa Maria LA The Lando family’s mission is toC.create and sell Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3 designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s LARG RG A

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Chiesa dell’Ospe Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua San Giacomo di RialtoArtisanal weavers specializing in the production Le Zoie Casa of exquisite, decorative fabrics di for furnishings and Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with Al Duca d'Aosta Polo PASSIONMarco TIP A unique place! Since curtains. Fontego personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shop 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca dei Tedeschi showcase rare antique watches and jewelry but d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the on original looms that once belonged to the Sant’Aponal also specializes in collections that are unlikelyPonte to Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, be found elsewhere, including objects inspired Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice di Rialto (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.

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Continuing a longstanding family tradition, in the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San Marco to open his workshop specializing in Ca' Pesaro ST Santa RA alleria Internazionale antique paintings, with a particular focus onSofia DA NO d'Arte Moderna Venetian artists. Also offers evaluations and VA Ca’ D’Oro certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 Santi Apostoli www.lineadacqua.it. San Marco 3717/d (Calle (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). CAMPIELLO Venezia, Le Stampe Turio WIDMANN CAMPIELLO CAL TI OZ GAB LE CASON Cà d'Oro della Mandola). T: 041DELLA 5224030. Vaporetto line 1 T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria R IE ZI LI At this small, refined showroom, Camilla Nicolai or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5 S.Canciano Ospedale continues a family tradition established at theSS. Giovann CAMPIELLO Chiesa Evangelica N SAN CANCIANO D R IO C A L L AN E M end of the century by her great grandfather L E19th Luterana ID S Studio Arga C UO W Ca’ Nova LE LE AL Osvaldo Böhm. Stocks a wide selection of frames, The owner of Studio Arga, Gabriella Tallon’sCCAMPO Boasting over 40 years in the industry, Ca' S.MARIA NOVA antiques and handcrafted Venetian objet d’art. expertise in Oriental and Asian antiques makes CAMPO CAL Nova which means ‘new house’, hasDELLA decorated LE San Cassiano L A RTIP PASSION PESCARIA GA N ZI A N G . G Specializes in antique decorative N CA this gallery a must-visit reference point. Open A S several of Venice’s most elegant homes with A A D L L IN A S A LI ZA RI SanSanta prints. Open 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm. CAMPO by appointment. www.argainc.com. Marco Maria O its upholstery fabrics. Wallpaper, curtains, DE Basilica dei SAN CASSAN CAMPO DE LA I M dei Miracoli www.venezialestampe.it. San Marco, 4606 (Calle 3659/a della Verona corner of RioIRTerà dei tablecloths and hand-woven sheets. Open BECARIE San (Calle Giovanni Santi Giovanni e Paolo AC CA C A LL O Teatro Goldoni). T: 041 5234318. Vaporetto line 1 LL E LI CAMPO CAMPO DEL ED Assassini). T: 041 2411124. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Sat 9amFO R Grisostomo CA E C Mon-Fri 9am-12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; NO CESARE BATTISTI CAL LL A’ L E ED Map GIOVANNI E4 MU GIÀ or San Samuele stop) and line 2 (San Marco stop). C A S T E or 2 (Rialto stop).SANTI E T 12.30pm. www.canovatessutitendaggi.com. San

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Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass andLA GRAZIA ISOLA blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP On request, Eredi Jovon creates customized portrait cameos based on photos or digital files. Thanks to an efficient e-commerce service, all creations can be ordered online and shipped worldwide. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 Map F4

28 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2019

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PHOTO © DE LUNA_PROEDI MEDIA

Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade,ISOLA printed or recycled SANfabrics CLEMENTE shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3

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La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, andAcharacters from the GIU D Eelves CC ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, Santissimo Redentore the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered Santa Croce among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Hundertwasser' Garden Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3

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Artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny jewel-like boutiques San Vidal Palazzo Corner DURO and vintage shops, this 'unique' city offersCa' Giustinian della Ca’Granda Ponte Pisani an array ofdell'Accademia 'unique' locationsPalazzo where you ssanti Gritti Gallerie Canal Grande dell'Accademia Palazzo can indulge in an authentic Genovese Collezione Peggy shopping San Trovaso Guggenheim Punta della Dogana Basilica di experience and purchase objet d’art, fabrics San Gregorio Santa Maria della Salute and accessories that you'll be hard put to Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese find elsewhere. While strolling through its Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione ‘calli’, you will discover how the tradition cultivated by the latterSpirito endows this city with Santo its characteristic vibrancy… CAL

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Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

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LIDO DI V


SHOPPING wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www. alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Pot-Pourrì Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Madein-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware inspired by a classical contemporary aesthetic including knickknacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4

DEPARTMENT STORES T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk

when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, baby-changing rooms, free parking, store map and guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the outlet village (admission in stores depending on the store policy), Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map

Palmanova Outlet Village Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: AdidasReebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta FerrettiMoschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, IxosMalloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped

city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet. it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map

JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open MonSat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Damiani A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani. com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Pomellato Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Rocca 1794 The boutique’s sweeping window display,

LA PERLA GALLERY The Bon family in Burano offers an assortment of only the finest handmade items including antique lace, high quality made-to-order tablecloths, furnishing accessories, household linens, refined silk for lingerie and clothing, christening gowns and children’s clothing (up to age 10), exclusive scarves in silk and cashmere and Venetian masks.

Via Galuppi, 287-376. T: 041 730009 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 29


PHOTO © PAWEL HORAZY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ARTISTIC GLASS IN MURANO

Museo Di Torcello Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta Chiesa di Santa Fosca

100 m

ROSINA DELLA STRADA

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SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

DE LE

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE

SAN ZZA

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

O DEL

GALIZZI

STURION

DEI

DEL

CINQUE

C.

PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

G. GALLINA

DEL

DE LE ERBE

COCCO

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

TOSCANA

CALLE

Palazzo Genovese

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

LARGA

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

LE VIGNOLE

FONDAM

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CALLE

LIO

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

DEL FORNO

FONDAMENTA

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

SAN

LUCATELLO MARZARIA DEI

BERLENDIS

VARISCO

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

LICINI

MEZO

C.

VENEZIA

CALLE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

SALIZADA

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

DEI

GIAZZO

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

CORTE GRAGOLINA

GALLO

Bacino Orseolo

NOVE

CALLE

DE

DONZELA

le

LA

TODESCHI

Cana

CALLE

DE

C. DEI

BIAGIO

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

WIDMANN

CALLE

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

BALOTE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

E

CASTELLO

C.

nde Canal Gra

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

CALLE

CORTE MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

CHIESA

CALLE DEL NAVARO

SANTO

RAMO

S.Canciano

RIO

Teatro Malibran

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

LE

DELLE

SAN

Teatro la Fenice

DELLA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

SAN CANZIAN

CAMPO SAN LIO

C. DEL

SAN

C.DE

C.

C.

FRUTARIOL

DEL

FREZZERIA

BOTERI

SESTIERE

ORESI

DEL

CAOTORTA

Santa Maria del Giglio

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

CALLE

CALLE CAPPUZZI

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

DE

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

SABION

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

San Fantin

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

ALLO

LUCA SAN CALLE

CALLE

X

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

San Maurizio

CAMPO PISANI

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

ZATTERE

DEI

PISCINA

CROSERA

Santo Stefano

FALIER

San Vidal

FONDAMENTA

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

FONTEGO

PIO

TEATRO

CALLE ASSASSINI

PONTE

SACCA SAN

DEI

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

MAZZINI CORTE

SAN SALVADOR

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

FONDAMENT

LARGA

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Rialto

LARGA

SAN CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

BOTEGHE

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

Palazzo Loredan

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

CAL

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CALLE

TEATRO

MARCO

CAFETIER

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPO MANIN

DEL

DEL

VENIER

CALLE

RAVANO

San Silvestro

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

S.Silvestro

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

NOVA

PARANGON

DEL

RUGHETA

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Palazzo Grimani

CALLE

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

ZATTERE

Zattere

Giudecca Hilton

PRIULI

Santa Sofia

STRADA

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

RUGA

DEL

CARROZZE

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia CALLE

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione FONDAMENTA

VOLTI

CALLE

SARTORI

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

BOTA

Sant’Aponal

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

CALLE

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

BONLINI

CA’

ZEN

CALLE

San Beneto San Luca

SAN

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

FABBRICHE

CALLE

LE

LE

CATENE

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

CATERINA

LE

TRAGHETTO

DE

CALLE

DE

S. Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

FONDAMENTA

LA

DEL CALLE

nde

NARISI FOND.

CROSERA

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

CALLE BERNARDO

Ca' Rezzonico

San Trovaso

OGNISANTI

DE DE

CARAMPANE

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

SAMUELE

NOVE

CALLE

SANTA

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

S. SALIZADA

LONGO

E

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

MORETTI

CALLE CALLE

LE

CAMPO SAN APONAL

DEL

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

DE

A

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

CARAMPANE DE

Gra

Palazzo Fortuny

SESTIERE DI SAN MARCO

VECCHIA

LEZZE

PONTE

Abazia della Misericordia D I

R

TRAPOLIN

STUA

PERDON

CA’ CORTE

Accademia

FOND.

ZATTERE

O

LA

CALLE

TIOZZI

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

Sant'Angelo

CALLE RAMO

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

DE OGNISANTI

AL

DEI

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

al Can Palazzo Giustinian Persico

S. Toma' SX

San Barnaba

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

FODAMENTA

IC

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

CALLE

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois CALLE

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

CALLE

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

CANAL RIO TERA’

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

ER

San Felice

S.Stae

DE

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

MADONA

ROSSA

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

del

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

IS

TA

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

C.

SCALETER

San Tomà

DORSODURO

BESAGIO

M

FONDAMEN

VENDRAMIN

DEL

DE

DEL

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

FONDAMENT

VENEZIA

TA

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

C.

EN

CALLE

DE LA

CAZZIOLA

Rio

SAN

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

AM

DE

FORNO

FONDAMENTA BRIATI

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

San Sebastiano

D

CA'

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

ZANE

CROSERA

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

N

TA

SAN

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

Madonna

MORI

FONDAMEN

RAMO

Rio Nuovo

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

SALIZADA

CALLE CHIESA

DEI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

DEL

TABACCHI

Angelo Raffaele

DORSODURO

S. Basilio

DELLA

NA

Santa Fosca

CALLE

NUOVA LARDONI

C.

CA

NA

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO

CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

LE

ALE

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

PRETI

L’ASEO

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

NIE

DD

DE

CALLE

TINTORETTO

DEI

CALLE

FOMO

DE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

TERÀ

SAN

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

.DA

MA

TRON

DEL

TENTOR

MEZO

CALLE

RIO

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

CALLE

CALLE

LA

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

PAPADOPOLI

DE L’OGIO

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

C.

DE

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA CALLE DE LA LACA

le

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

À D E

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

OCHE

C.VENZATO

LA

CALLE DELL'OLIO

LA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

de

SAN

BASEGO

RIO

FO de Servi N

SOTOPORTEGO

DE

TINTOR

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

DE

LA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SALIZADA

CALLE

Misericordia

FO

CALLE

L’ISOLA

DEL

FON.

CALLE

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

DE

DE LA VIDA

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE

SCHI

NICOLO’ SAN

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

TERA’

RAMO

San Giacomo dall'Orio

RUGA BELA

CALLE ORSETTI

TA

CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE CALLE

MINOTTO

Magazen

della

TER

CALLE

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

TA GARZOTTI FONDAMEN

CANAL CORTE

LUNA

Rio

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

Rio

La Maddalena

NOVA

I CALLE ORSETT

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMA

SIMEONE

MARTA SANTA FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

CERERI

IA

RIO

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

FONDAMEN

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

DEI

RD

R

STRADA

BIASIO

DI

BARI

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

DEI

FONDAMENTA

DEI FONTEGHERI

ICO

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

VECCHIO

C.

NUOVA

RIZZI

PROCURATIE

LARGA

PONTE

LA

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Rio

PENSIERI

FONDAMENTA

LISTA

C.

CALLE

LUNGA

DEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

ER

CALLE TRAGHETTO

RIVA FONDAMENTA

San Simeone Profeta

Soranzo Cappello

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

MADONA

MIS

E DEL PISTO

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

MUNEGHE

CONVERTITE

VECCHIO GHETTO

CERERIA

CALLE

LA

CALLE

CALLE

CAMIN DEL

RIELLO CALLE

CALLE

NA

Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

Palazzo Soranzo Capello

Giardino di Palazzo

CASE CORTE

CALLE

SANT'ANDREA

TABACCHI

RIO

LA

TA

Rio

CALL

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

NUOVE

CROCE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

CALLE

LA

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

DE

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

A

EN

SE

RDIA

CROCE

CALLE

AM

I

A E M

MISERICO

TO

LER

LL

LA

RIO

Ferrovia

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

Ferrovia

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

NS

DELL'ORTO

ER LE P

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

San Leonardo

DEI

TERÀ

SE

ND

Museo Ebraico CAL

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

nde l Gra Cana

SCALZI

Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione FO.

RIO

People Mover Venezia

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

TA

Rio

DE

TI

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

EN

FO

Santa Maria di Nazareth

TRONCHET

AM

CANNAREGIO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

TRONCHETTO

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

ND

INE

CALLE

ZZ

SAVORGNAN

CALLE DEI FUSERI

PU

San Girolamo

A

San Geremia

SALONI

CA

C.

FO

LE

O

SPAGNA

AI

DE

AM

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

DI

ZATTERE

TA

OL

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENT

LISTA

FONDAMENTA

NUOVE

EN

LLO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

AM

N G IR

DEL

ND

SA

CAPITELO

CASE

TA

CALLE

FO EN

TE

TERÀ

DA PONTE

AM

B AT

DOGE

ND

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

CALLE

TA

QUERIN,

BECCARIE

EN

CAVALLET

CA

CALLE

AI

CALLE

LE

AM

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

PRIULI

SEBASTIANO

FORNER

FO

Canale

CAMPO SAFFA

CALLE

BRAGADIN

DEL

DE

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa

COLETTI

ND

FONDAMENTA

SAN

GIOBBE

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

della

CARLO

FO

A

San Giobbe

VENIER FONDAMENTA

NUOVE

Rio

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENT

TO

DEL SABION

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

TRONCHET

FONDAMENTA

LARGA

FONDAMENT

A

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

DEL

CORTE

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

NOVA

FONTEGO

ER

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

B

ISOLA

LA

Parco

LI

People Mover Venezia

SALITA

LA

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

NANI

EL

CANOSSIANE

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

D

FOSCARINI

LE

FONDAMENTA

A

TERRÀ

VI

LE

ER

DE

B

TO

COLORATA

Cimitero Nuovo ORTES CALLE

VENINI

PAOLO

FONDAMENT

LI

O

MURANO CALLE

LA

CALLE DEL CIMITERO

EL

NICOLO’ CALLE SAN

D

del

LE

CALLE

A

Rio

VI

PORTO MARGHERA

CALLE

The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard.

TORCELLO

FONDAME

home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.

DI

As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take you custom-made lamp

FONDAMENTA

Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries. It’s natural to mention glass when talking about Venice. It’s the same as associating the city with the Lagoon, its colours and the plays of light that have served as inspiration for the most iconic creations by local master glass blowers.

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FAUSTA


SHOPPING overlooking the famous St. Mark’s Square, host the collections of prestigious brands including Damiani and Salvini, but also the iconic models of some of the world’s most coveted high-end watchmakers including A. Lange & Söhne, piaget, Hublot, Zenith and Longines. Also particularly worthy of note are the splendid creations in glass handcrafted by Venini, unique artifacts that add a definite touch of allure to the space. Expert collectors or those who are new to the game can count on a service of excellence which entails full pre- and post-sale assistance. Other services include a full maintenance service with check ups and providing international certificates. www.rocca1794.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 02 5201014. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Salvadori

ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadorivenezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5

Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Tips to purchase Murano glass In order to protect local craftsmanship and guarantee the authenticity of recently purchased products, in 1994 the Region of Veneto has created a trademark to guarantee that products have been made in Murano according to the traditional techniques used by master glassblowers. Management of the registered Vetro Artistico® Murano trademark is entrusted to the Consorzio Promovetro Murano, which boasts a membership of fifty companies, the only ones allowed to mark their products with prestigious label. Depending on the type of working process involved, the adhesive sticker can be either red or blue. It also shows the manufacturer’s identification code on the top. In 2016, a serial number and a data matrix code were added to the sticker. These serve as additional proof that the product purchased is a genuine Murano-made item. (by G.M.) www.muranoglass.com – www.promovetro.com

Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 3145 (Salizada San Samuele). T: 041 5210268. Map E4

The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open

Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Venini An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini. com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4

PASSION SHOPPING Ca’ Macana One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago and each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold conferences and courses on traditional mask-making techniques. Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D4

Ottica Manuela Located in the district of San Marco, this high-end optician resembles an atelier rather than a shop. Renowned for its professionalism and attentive service, it offers creations that are real works of art. Its frames for prescription lenses or sunglasses make Ottica Manuela’s iconic eyewear real statement pieces that add a unique touch to every face.

TESSITURA LUIGI BEVILACQUA An evocative, surprising place, a form of craftsmanship that exemplifies artisanal skills and culture since 1875, a business that combines managerial expertise and ancient savoir faire: all this is Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua, an establishment that embodies the concept of Italian excellence. www.luigi-bevilacqua.com

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DINING

Canalside dining The Grand Canal restaurant, located on the Grand Canal, combines the pleasures of the palate with a breathtaking view over Venice’s Lagoon and the San Marco Basin. By Chiara Zaccarelli

I

magine dining on a terrace next to Ca’ Giustinian, the historic headquarters of the Biennale, which dominates the San Marco Basin and looks across to Punta della Dogana, the Baroque Basilica of Madonna della Salute and, a little further on, towards the Islands of San Giorgio and Giudecca. This dream comes true at the Ristorante Grand Canal, a must-visit venue located inside the historic Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal, in a ‘palazzo’ formerly owned by the Dandolo family. The origins of the Hotel Monaco date back to 1638 when it was a ‘Ridotto’, one of the first public gaming houses in history, where noblemen and crowned heads, fortune seekers, travelers and merchants ‘retreated’ to gamble, entertain themselves

32 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2019

with courtesans, seal political deals and socialize. It was an ideal setting for the carefree, libertine lifestyle of Giacomo Casanova, who was one of its regular visitors. While the hallmark feature of the Grand Canal restaurant is its magnificent terrace, where politicians, financiers, journalists, publishers, artists and entrepreneurs still meet today, its culinary offerings are equally impressive. Its menu features the most typical dishes of Venetian tradition, in the ultimate expression of taste and harmony, including bìgoli in salsa (a typical type of Venetian pasta), or Venetian-style calf liver with polenta, but also traditional Italian dishes like Caprese-style braided buffalo mozzarella, vitello tonnato or rack of roast lamb.

>> Ristorante Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal www.hotelmonaco.it San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Map F5


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE

Al Giardinetto da Severino

Antica Carbonera

Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetianstyle liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www.anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www.ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antiche Carampane A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www. antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www. anticomartini.com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

Map E5

1000 Gourmet PIZZERIA After years of experience in the restaurant business in Naples, 1000 Gourmet has opened its second locale in Venice, just steps from St. Mark’s Square. Its Neapolitan-style cuisine is based on the use of high-quality ingredients (including unrefined or gluten-free flour) and creative pairings, interpreted in numerous, tasty options. Other highlights include traditional Italian and Neapolitan ‘antipasti’, starters and desserts. Open daily, 11am-4pm/6pm-11pm. San Marco, 475/476 (Calle Specchieri). T: 041 3127069. Vaporetto Line 1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4

NAPLES | VENICE

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Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Calle Specchieri, 475 - San Marco 30124 - Venezia Tel. +39 041 3127069 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 33


DINING Antico Pignolo The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well-stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Da Fiore A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (RialtoMercato stop). Map E3

Gran Canal Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm11.30pm €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5

Harry’s Bar Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect

TRATTORIA DA ROMANO Run by the Barbaro family for four generations, this picturesque eatery has retained all of its timeless appeal. Recognized for more than fifty years as one of the few prestigious art restaurants in Venice, Romano manages the trattoria with the help of his wife, Siora Gigia. Standouts include ancient Burano specialties, and the chef’s signature mixed grill cooked over wood.

www.daromano.it Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030. 34 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2019

opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5

La Conca d’Oro Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) €€€ (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Lineadombra Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Trattoria Do Forni The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make this restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. €€€. www. doforni.it. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

Wildner Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves

classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

PASTRY SHOPS Dal Mas Located just a few minutes from the railway station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightly-coloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas.com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Map D3

Pasticceria Italo Didovich Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

Pasticceria Rosa Salva This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San Marco-Calle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San MarcoMercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4


DINING

Top hotel restaurants Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice.

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. www.casagredohotel.com Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal and in front of the historic Rialto Market, it is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. Map E3

Glam Acquerello c/o S. Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations. Its view is as breathtaking as its food: the restaurant boasts a large terrace. Off Map Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. www.aman.com Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. A delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani. Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. www.sinahotels.com Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes. Map E5 Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. www.baglionihotels.com San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients. Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. www.clubdeldoge.com Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. A welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. Map E5

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica della Salute. Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. www.londrapalace.com Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. It combines the traditions of Venetian fare with more creative dishes Two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room and its summer Veranda. Map G4 Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. www.jwvenice.com Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. Chef Enrico Bartolini offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients. Map E3 Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables. Map F5 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs. Map E1

La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Map E5 La Cusina c/o The Westin Europa & Regina. www.lacusina.it San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. The ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city, while savouring the restaurant’s seasonal dishes. Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.starhotels.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly. Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani. www.palazzettopisani.com San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. Here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Map E5 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli. www.terrazzadanieli.com Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Map F4

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DINING

Michelin-starred restaurants

Oro

Quadri

Met

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676 www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal,

36 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2019

the Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. Just one year after it opened, it was awarded its first Michelin star in November 2017. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4

Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149. T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Giudecca, 10 T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6


Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3 Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has recently reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4

Glam

Dopolavoro

Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map

Venissa

Il Ridotto

Osteria da Fiore

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

CANALETTO, IL CANAL GRANDE DA PALAZZO BALBI A RIALTO CA’ REZZONICO, MUSEO DEL SETTECENTO VENEZIANO

Realer than real The entire creative universe of Canaletto and his contemporaries, their skillful use of light, the realism of details in portrayals of Venice are showcased in the rooms of Palazzo Ducale. By Giulia Minero

T

he reason that people primarily associate Venice with water is due, in part, to the legacy left by Antonio Canal, better known as Canaletto. In his landscapes, or ‘vedute’, the artist celebrates the role of water and its manifestations, with magnificent, spectacular images. Palazzo Ducale pays tribute to his genius with an exhibition titled Canaletto and Venice (until 9 June) which focuses on the flourishing artistic output in Venice during the 18th century with a particular emphasis on the work of two of its main protagonists: the Vedustist artist, Canaletto and his contemporary Tiepolo, both renowned for portraying and exalting the intrinsic beauty of the city. One of the characteristic features of the pictorial genre of ‘Vedutismo’, which reached its height in Venice, 38 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2019

transforming the city into a work of art, is the extreme realism of the landscapes depicted. In order to enhance the experience, and acquaint visitors with 18th century Venetian excellence in the applied arts, the display of 25 works by Canaletto, including several previously unreleased canvases, are showcased alongside the masterpieces of other artists who were his contemporaries. This dialogue on art unfolds through 11 rooms and includes 20 sculptures and 80 paintings created by several of the period’s most innovative artists including Pietro Longhi, Francesco Guardi, Giambattista Piranesi, Antonio Canova, Giandomenico Tiepolo and Giovanni Battista Piazzetta. Other highlights featured include engravings, sketches and porcelain, for a total of 270 pieces.

>> Canaletto and Venice Palazzo Ducale, Appartamento del Doge Piazza San Marco, 1 palazzoducale.visitmuve.it


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia. org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

PHOTO © JOPSSTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

EDITOR'S TIP

Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www.canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14thcentury foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing

community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia) Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An age-old destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the best-known... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water,

11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET The Museum Pass is a combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: the Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History.

Museo Correr

Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 39


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perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Peggy Guggenheim Collection

© SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION, NEW YORK.

San Giorgio Maggiore

Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and well-tended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century

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collection of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions. www.guggenheim-venice.it

Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5

Santa Maria della Salute Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am12noon/3pm-5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia. it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Santi Giovanni e Paolo One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo is considered the Pantheon of Venice because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. www. basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3

Scala Contarini del Bovolo SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FONDATION. PHOTO ARCHIVIO CAMERAPHOTO EPOCHE. DONAZIONE, CASSA DI RISPARMIO DI VENEZIA, 2005.

Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a


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cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am-1.30pm/2pm6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4

Scuola Grande dei Carmini Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop).

Teatro La Fenice Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Century Venetian Art The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de' Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico. visitmuve.it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5

Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of

the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca' d'Oro The Ca' d'Oro, an ancient 15th century Patrician dwelling, hosts the art collections that were donated to the State by Baron Giorgio Franchetti. These include period furnishing, tapestries, paintings, sculptures and bronzes. Its current collection features a mixture of Renaissance works from the Lombard, Venetian, Reggio Emilia and Flemish schools, as well as masterpieces like Andrea Mantegna’s renowned St. Sebastian. An interesting collection of ceramic relics from the Venetian lagoon are housed at Ca' Duodo, the building lying adjacent to Ca’ d’Oro. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €6. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.cadoro.org. Cannaregio, 3932 (Strada Nuova). T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.gallerieaccademia. it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

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rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www.correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo d'Arte Orientale-Ca’ Pesaro The museum, located on the top floor of the Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna, is housed in an ancient building on the Grand Canal designed by Baldassare Longhena for the Pesaro family. Here, you will find one of the most important collections in the world of Japanese art from the Edo period: more than 30,000 pieces including swords and daggers, Japanese armour, delicate lacquer ware palanquin and priceless porcelain. Other highlights include extensive sections dedicated to Chinese and Indonesian art. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket (integrated with the International Gallery of Modern Art) €10. www.arteorientale.

SAVE THE DATE

THE VITRUVIAN MAN The graphic collection of Venice’s Gallerie dell’Accademia includes a remarkable number of drawings by Leonardo da Vinci. Until 14 July, the master’s 25 autograph sheets will be showcased at an exhibition marking the fifth centenary of the artist’s death. Among these, the most notable of all is a study on human proportions known as ‘The Vitruvian Man’, a universal symbol of classic perfection. Leonardo da Vinci. Man is a model of the world 17 April – 14 July Gallerie dell’Accademia www.mostraleonardo.it

Museo Correr The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 41


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org. Santa Croce, 2076.T: 041 5241173. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

The “Scuole Grandi”

Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum) Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum €12. www.museomerletto.visitmuve. it. Piazza Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line 12 (Burano stop). Off Map

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum)

Scuola di San Rocco

Among Venice’s countless art treasures, buildings known as ‘Scuole’ or ‘Scuole Grandi’ might be mentioned as unmissable attractions. It goes without saying that these are not schools in the accepted sense of the word, but one of the innumerable distinctive features of this unique city. During the ancient Republic of Venice, from the 13th century onwards, the word ‘Scuola’ was, in fact, used to describe a brotherhood, or rather an association of lay members who met to provide assistance to poor people, widows, orphans, old and sick people. The ‘Scuole’ were divided into Devotional Schools (or Scuole Grandi) which gathered for religious purposes in the name of a patron saint, Schools of Arts and Crafts and Schools of Foreign Communities (Scuole Piccole or Scuolette). Until the fall of the Republic, they represented a real kind of welfare system, initially destined for members but later extended to the entire population. The ‘Scuole Grandi’ had countless means at their disposal, a part of which they invested to embellish their own headquarters with paintings by well-known artists including Tintoretto, Jacopo Palma il Giovane or Giambattista Tiepolo. As time passed, the most important Schools built palaces for their residents designed by famous architects, and adorned them with

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paintings by the best artists of the era. After the fall of the Republic of Venice in 1797, the Schools were suppressed by a Napoleonic edict (1807) and within the space of a short time their assets ended up at antique markets and collections throughout the world. Several of the best preserved Schools were reconstituted and transformed into museums that can now be visited by the public. These include the Great Schools of San Giovanni Evangelista (www.scuolasangiovanni.it), the Scuola di San Rocco (www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it) and the Scuola dei Carmini (www.scuolagrandecarmini.it). Others, including the Scuole Grandi di San Teodoro (www.scuolagrandesanteodoro.it), the Scuola di San Marco (the seat of the city’s hospital), www.scuolagrandesanmarco.it), and the Scuola di Santa Maria Giustizia or San Fantin, currently home to Venice’s Faculty of Science, Literature and Arts (www.ateneoveneto.org), were converted into public exhibition spaces and institutions. The Scuola Dalmata di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni and the Scuola di San Nicolò dei Greci (currently Venice’s Museum of Icons), are ‘small’ schools whose artistic treasures are well worth a visit. Lastly, an interesting fact: the facade of the Scuola Grande di Santa Maria della Carità, suppressed in 1806, is now the entrance to the magnificent Accademia Galleries.

Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro. visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

Museo di San Marco The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica: Mosaics, Textiles, the Quadriga and the Antico. Particularly noteworthy, amongst its relics and artworks, are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics, preserved in special containers known as ‘cassine’. The tour of the museum takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo di Storia Naturale Housed in the Palazzo del Fondaco dei Turchi on the Grand Canal, its original, contemporary layout is divided into three sections each of which is, in actual fact, a museum within a museum. Its collection includes more than two million pieces: zoological and paleontological collections, ancient herbariums, plant and fish fossils, a collection of minerals, a wunderkammer (cabinet of curiosities) housing more than 2,000 examples of different animal parts and a Venetian fish tank. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.msn.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce, 1730 (Fondaco dei Turchi). T: 041 2750206. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map D3

Museo Ebraico di Venezia

JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban architectural museum


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complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Jewish Museum: open 10am-7pm (from 1 June to 30 September); 10am-5.30pm (from 1 October to 31 May). Guided tours of the Museum + synagogues: hourly from 10.30am to 4.30pm (1 October-31 May) or until 5.30pm (1 June-30 September). Museum, synagogues and cemetery closed on Saturdays and on Jewish holidays, 25 December, 1 January, 1 May. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www.museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2

Museo Querini Stampalia The Querini Stampalia house-museum is an opulent patrician dwelling located on the ‘piano nobile’ of a 16th century palazzo, and features several unusual architectural elements designed by Carlo Scarpa, Valeriano Pastor and Mario Botta. Works displayed include paintings by Giovanni Bellini, Jacopo Palma the Elder and the Younger, Bernardo Strozzi, Marco and Sebastiano Ricci, Giambattista Tiepolo, Pietro Longhi and Gabriel Bella. In addition to the museum, the complex also has a library and a space dedicated to contemporary art exhibitions. Closed on Mondays. Museum and Display Areas full ticket price €10; Scarpa Area full ticket price €8. www. querinistampalia.it. Castello, 5252 (Santa Maria Formosa). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Rialto stop), lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, 7, 20 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura), period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics. Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www. palazzocini.it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041 2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop), lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop). Map E5

Palazzo Ducale A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Palazzo Fortuny Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his own personal atelier for photography, set-design, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s collections boasts pieces and materials commissioned for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. The building is now used to host art exhibitions. The museum is open only during temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays. www.fortuny.visitmuve.it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4

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Palazzo Grassi-Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi. it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and oldenday accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-4pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Museo Vedova-Magazzino del Sale The objective of the Emilio and Annabianca Vedova Foundation is to promote the art and work of artist Emilio Vedova with a series of cultural initiatives (research, exhibitions, educational activities, conventions, study grants and awards). Its two permanent exhibition spaces, used to showcase works by the latter, also host temporary exhibitions and events on a rotational basis: the Magazzino del Sale 266 – based on a project by Renzo Piano – and the former Studio Vedova. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €8; www. fondazionevedova.org. Magazzino del Sale Dorsoduro 266 (Zattere). Spazio Vedova –Ticket Office and Bookshop Dorsoduro 50 (Zattere). T: 041 2410833. Vaporetto line 1 (Accademia stop or Salute stop), 2 (Accademia stop), 5.1/5.2 (Spirito Santo stop), 6 (Zattere stop). Map E6

Palazzo Cini-La Galleria Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca,

PALAZZO GRASSI Renovated by Japanese architect Tadao Ando (responible also for the restoration of Punta della Dogana), Palazzo Grassi showcases the extraordinary Pinault Collection and features personal and collective exhibitions. www.palazzograssi.it

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 43


PH © CATARINA BELOVA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ESSENTIALS

Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi

I

talians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 44 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2019

ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.

Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some rather unpleasant surprises!


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE

all pharmacies.

Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT VCE  Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO  Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity.

Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA  The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates

(approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45


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SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto

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ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE

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CALLE

NUOVA

DEI PRETI

COLTRERA

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

de le

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

San Francesco di Paola BALD

OSPIZIO

CALLE

LE

CALLE FRIZIER

GARI

EPPE

C. LOREDANA

I S ET

AN

CALLE

ENA

CALLE

DE

EL

FONDAMENTA

ARS

NALE

FONDAME

IUS VIA G

VA

CH

Ponte

E N TA

TA A R SE

LA TANA

CROSERA

AM

DELLA

MI

ERBE

RAMO DE

CALLE

ND

CALLE

E

LE

AMEN

TANA

CALLE

FO

CALLE ALBERO

LL

JUNGHANS

DE

FOND

DE LA

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

FO

Redentore O

Santissimo Redentore

CALLE MORE

del

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

CASTELLO

SAN GI ACOM

CA

CAMPO

CALLE

VIDA

DI

M E N TA

LA

ISOLA DI

GIUDECCA FONDA

DEI

DE

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

PIETRO

PICCOLO

FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

SAN

PONTE

PALLADA

SCUOLA

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

San Martino

MOROSINA

FONDAMENTA

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CALLE

Punta della Dogana

IA

CALLE

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

Arsenale di Venezia

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

RUGA VECCHIA

FORNACE

SALONI

FEM

DE CALLE

CROSERA

C. VOLTO

TERRÀ

'EU

PISCINA

PIGNATER

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

CATECUMENI

RIO

NT

SCUOLA

MARTIN

L’ARCO

CALLE

ONI

DEL PIOVAN

RIO TERRÀ

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

SA

CALLE

DE

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

CALLE

SARTOR

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

TA

CALLE

S C H I AV

CALLE DELA CREA

Giudecca Palanca EN

NUOVE

CASTELLO

L’ANZOLO

BASTION

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

DEI PUTI

AM

CELESTIA

DONA

DE

SCUDI

LARGA

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

ND

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

DEL

CALLE

SAN

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

FO

COSMO

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

SAN ANTONIN

DE

Spirito Santo

FO

Sant'Eufemia

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

DEGLI

VERONA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

BIAGIO

CALLE

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

SAN

R I VA D EGLI

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

DEI FORNI

SAN

CONVERTITE

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

Arsenale

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN

SALIZADA

SALIZADA

CALLE BOSELLO

LA

MINELLI

TERRÀ

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

100 m

LAVRANERI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

San Giorgio dei Greci

San Zaccaria

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

DE

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

C.

Rio Del

FABBRI

FONDAMENTA

C.

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

RIO

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

DEGLI

O

DEGLI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

RI

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CALLE

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

DEI

DEL

CALLE

TRONCHETTO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

FONDAMENTA

ra Scomenze De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO

FONDAMENTA

F. CONDULMER

DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO

CERERIA LA DE C.

PORTO

a

DEL CAFETIER

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

CALLE

DEI PRETI

GATE

CALLE

DRASI

ZORZI SALIZADA

C. PIANTON

R I VA

DE LE

DEI

CALLE

C. DE LE COLONNE

DELL’OROLOGIO

PISCINA

VERONA

RC

CALLE

CALLE

MARZARIA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

LA

CALLE

DE

A N M

SALIZADA

SEVERO

DIREZIONE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SAN

FABBRI

Marittim

LATERANO

CORTE NOVA

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

DEI

LARGA

P U N TA S A B B I O N I Santa Maria del Pianto

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

MEZO

RUGA

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CARBON

Salvador

C.

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

SA

Rio San Lorenzo

DE CALLE

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

Palazzo Ducale

LO

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

LIO

DEL

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

O

MO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San

CORTE NUOVA

San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

SAN

CALLE

RC

CALLE ERIZZO

SALIZADA

CALLE

Rio

RIO

CALLE

CALLE

BARBARIA

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO DEL CALLE

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

MA

SCHIAVONI RIVA

LE VIGNOLE

NOVE

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO

SAN

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

ORBI

BEMBO

DE LE

DEI

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

C.

MAGAZZINI

G. GALLINA

DEL

DE LE ERBE

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

BIANCA CALLE

Museo Correr

SALUTE

ZATTERE

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

LARGA

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

ZZA

REMER

LIO

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

PIA

O DEL

CINQUE

GRIMANI

CAVALLI

AI

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

CORNER

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

COCCO

TOSCANA

LICINI

MEZO

C.

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

FONDAMENTA

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

CORTE GRAGOLINA

Bacino Orseolo

Ca' Giustinian

FONDAMENTA

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

NOVE

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

SAN

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GALLO

BERLENDIS

VARISCO

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

GIAZZO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

LE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

BOTERI

CALLE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

MIRACOLI

CALLE

DE

CALLE

Stazione

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

Salute

PONTE

SACCA SAN

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

RIO

Teatro Malibran

SALIZADA

SAN

DELLE

SAN

DEL CALLE

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

SAN CANZIAN

CAMPO

C. DEL

SABION

C.

C.

FRUTARIOL

DEL

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

CASTELLO

CALLE

MADONA

zera

ORESI

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

SESTIERE

DEI

PARANGON

RUGA

CALLE

DOLERA

DIETRO

FABBRICHE

CALLE

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

TODESCHI

CALLE

CANAL RIO TERA’

C. DEI

VAPORETTO

LE

GALIZZI

STURION

ROSSA

nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CROSERA

CALLE

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

CALLE

Palazzo Genovese

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

RAMO

S.Canciano CALLE

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

DE PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAL

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

LUCA SAN CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

X

SAN LIO

MAZZINI CORTE

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE CALLE ASSASSINI

San Fantin

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

CHIESA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

FONTEGO

PIO

LARGA

SAN SALVADOR

TEATRO

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

DELLA

CAPPUZZI

ZATTERE

SANTO

DEL

VOLTI

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

CALLE

SAN CALLE CALLE

Teatro la Fenice Maria del Giglio

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Rialto

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN

TEATRO

MARCO

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CALLE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

ALLO

CALLE CALLE

SARTORI

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

ZEN

RIO

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

San Silvestro

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

S.Silvestro

DEL

DEL

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San MaurizioSanta

Canal Grande

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

PRIULI

NOVA

PESCARIA

DEI

DEL

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

CATERINA

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

DEL

CALLE

CAZZIOLA

TRAGHETTO

CALLE

ZATTERE

Zattere

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

CAMPO DELLA

RAVANO

DEL

RUGHETA

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

CAMPO PISANI

CATENE

SANTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

BECARIE

DEL SOL

SAN BOTEGHE

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

CALLE

LA

CAMPO DE LA

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

Palazzo Grimani

San Beneto San Luca CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

LE

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

FONDAMENTA

NOVE

CALLE

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

CAMPO SAN APONAL

DEL

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal DEL

CALLE

NARISI FOND.

DE

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

San Trovaso FONDAMENTA

LA

CARAMPANE

de r an

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

CROSERA

FALIER

BONLINI

LE

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

SAMUELE

Palazzo Loredan CALLE

OGNISANTI

DEL

San Felice

DE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

al G

SESTIERE

S. SALIZADA

CARROZZE

CALLE

S. Samuele

LONGO

FONDAMENTE

FONDAMENTA

VENDRAMIN

CALLE

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

PERDON

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

DE

TRAPOLIN

CA'

CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

Can Sant'Angelo

VECCHIA

LEZZE

LE

IA

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CA’ CORTE

DE

Abazia della Misericordia D

R

C.

Rio Nuovo

FOND.

O

DE

Santa Fosca

TIOZZI

DE

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE RAMO

PONTE

IC

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

DEI

C.

SCALETER

Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

ER

NA

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

DE

DEL

San Tomà

Ca' Rezzonico

Accademia

ZATTERE AL

CALLE CHIESA

IS

FONDAMENTA

S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI CALLE BERNARDO

FODAMENTA

S. Basilio

DELLA

TA

TRON

SAN

C.

EN

MORETTI

C.

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

AM

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE

DEL

TENTOR

MEZO

CAMPO

ZANE

CROSERA

Ca' Rezzonico

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

D

CALLE

TABACCHI

CALLE

C.

DE

SAN BOLDO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

San Barnaba

N

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

NUOVA

PRETI

L’ASEO

Madonna

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

DE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

NA

DONZELA

CALLE

TINTORETTO

DEI

CALLE

FOMO

CA

LA

SAN

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

LE

ALE

DE

PAPADOPOLI

TERÀ

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

CALLE

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

DE OGNISANTI

NIE

DD

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

CALLE

RIO

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

le

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

DEI

M .DA

MA

La Maddalena

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

de

BASEGO

RIO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

LA

DE

LA

CALLE DE LA LACA

LA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SAN

CALLE

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

À D E

SOTOPORTEGO

DE

C. CAMPAZZO DE

CALLE

Rio

SALIZADA

del

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

FO de Servi N

TER

C.

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

Bacino

DE

DE LA VIDA

C.VENZATO

LA

CALLE

CALLE DELL'OLIO

FON.

Canale

TERA’

RAMO

CALLE ORSETTI

DE

TINTOR

BESAGIO

Misericordia

FO

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

DEL

SALIZADA

della

Rio

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI

SIMEONE LUNA

MINOTTO

Magazen

CALLE

Rio

DORSODURO

San Sebastiano SAN

CALLE CAZZA

FONDAMENTA

CANAL

LA

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

BRIATI

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

RUGA BELA

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO

DEI

Angelo Raffaele

DORSODURO

Rio

CALLE

C.

NUOVA

CERERI

FONDAMENTA

LARDONI

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

LARGA

PONTE PROCURATIE

DEI

CALLE

IA

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

BIASIO

DI

BARI

C.

CALLE

LUNGA

Scomen

CALLE

RIZZI FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

DE L’OGIO

RD

R

VECCHIO

RIVA

LISTA

San Simeone Profeta

Soranzo Cappello

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

Rio

PENSIERI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

I CALLE ORSETT

DEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ICO

NOVA

MISERICORDIA

SANT'ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

MADONA

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

ER

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

NAZARIO Palazzo FONDAMENTA SAURO Soranzo Capello GARZOTTI

Giardino di Palazzo

CASE CORTE

CALLE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

TABACCHI

RIO

LA

MIS

RIO

NUOVE

CROCE

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

DE

TA

E DEL PISTO

MUNEGHE

LA

CROCE

CALLE

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

EN

STRADA

DE

SPAGNA

FONDAMENTA

Ferrovia

CORTE

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

NICOLO’ SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

AM

CALL

San Leonardo

San Geremia DI LISTA TERÀ RIO

SCALZI

DEI Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

Ferrovia

LA FO.

TERÀ

MARTA

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

ND

I

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

CALLE TRAGHETTO

CALLE

CAVALLETTI

Santa Maria di Nazareth

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione

RIO

People Mover Venezia

SANTA FONDAMENTA

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

A

Rio

LER

NA

AI

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

NS

DELL'ORTO

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

PRIULI

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

SE

FO

ER LE P

SE

TRONCHETTO

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

TA

Museo Ebraico CAL

A E M

CALLE

DEL

EN

CANNAREGIO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

LL

NOVA

AM

San Girolamo

CA

ISOLA

TRONCHETTO

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

ND

INE

DEL

ZZ

CALLE

PU

SAVORGNAN

MATTIA

CA

PISCINA

LE

FO

LE

O

SAN

DE

AM

L’ARCO

TA

OL

CALLE

EN

DE

AM

N G IR

SAN

ND

SA

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA

VECCHIA

TA

LLO

RUGA

FO

EN

TE

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

DA PONTE

AM

B AT

DOGE

ND

TA

CALLE

FORNER

EN

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

DEL

AM

SEBASTIANO

CALLE

FO

ND

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

CAMPO SAFFA

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

VENEZIA

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa

COLETTI

Canale

GIOBBE

People Mover Venezia

della

CARLO

FO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San Giobbe

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Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

DI SAN ROCCO

10 SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE

7

15 TORCELLO

H

6

O

S. Servolo

I

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5 STARS DELUXE (L) & 5 STARS Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Danieli – Castello, 4196 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • F5 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Grand Hotel Dei Dogi – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – Campo Santa Maria del Giglio • E5 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Cavalieri di Venezia – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Ai Reali di Venezia – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Best Western Premier Collection CHC Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bisanzio – Riva degli Schiavoni-Calle della Pietà, 3651 • G4 Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce, 578 • C3 Carnival Palace – Fondamenta di Cannaregio, 929 • C2 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Le Ville del Lido – Via Bragadin, 38 (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5

Nani Mocenigo Palace – Dorsoduro, 960 (Fondamenta Nani) • D5 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 NH Rio Novo – Dorsoduro, 3489/E-C (Calle Larga Ragusei) • C4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Guardi – Dorsoduro, 995 • D5 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Palazzo Veneziano – Dorsoduro, 1413 • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 Heureka – Cannaregio, 3534 • E2 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 (Calle del Scaleter) • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 (Ramo Grassi) • D4 Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4

Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Belle Arti – Dorsoduro, 912/A (Rio Terrà Foscarini) • D5 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a (Campo Santa Maria del Giglio) • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 (Fondamenta Contarini) • D4 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 OUT OF TOWN 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) Leonardo Royal Hotel Venice Mestre - Via Ca’ Marcello, 6 – VENIC Mestre (Ve) E CITY GUIDE NH Laguna Palace – Viale Bura Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve) the no, inb islanra Villa Barbarich – Via Molino d ow Ronchin, 1 – Mestre (Ve)

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