Where Magazine New Orleans Nov 2019

T R AV E L E R S K N O W W H E R E ™

NEW ORLEANS NOV 2019

GET GOING

PLAYFUL PLATES

A BOUNTY OF MUST-DOS

Out and about on Oak Street

NOLA chefs are having fun in the kitchen

Exploring “Acadia” and weird home tours

Fall food fetes and “Dear Evan Hansen”

A New Orleans Tradition 714 St. Peter • 600 Decatur • 334 Royal • 311 Bourbon

www.cafebeignet.com

Fresh Florida

STONE CRABS Now Available

Open 5 p.m. Daily | 322 Magazine Street | 504.522.7902 | chophousenola.com

VINTAGE VINTAGE VINTAGE CHANEL CHANEL CHANEL JEWELRY JEWELRY JEWELRY

www.vintage329.com

329 Royal St. 504.525.2262

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329 329 329Royal Royal RoyalSt. St. St.504.525.2262 504.525.2262 504.525.2262

THERE IS NO WAY YOU CAN LOOK LIKE A TURKEY IN THESE.

3708 Magazine St. 504-891-4494 ArtAndEyesNewOrleansLA.com

ART & EY&S Indy Eyewear Like Nowhere Else

Playing With Their Food

CONTENTS

16

2019

ESSENTIALS Editor’s Note 8 Ask the Expert 12 Calendar 14 One Block 26 Maps 53 Where Next 56 Parting Shot C3 THE GUIDE Dining 29 Shopping 34 Attractions 41 Entertainment 44 Nightlife 46

Life on the Mississippi

19

The New Orleans Museum of Art’s “Inventing Acadia” exhibit.

Fall Food Fests

20

Po’boys, boudin, cheese, gumbo—gobble, gobble!

21 Audubon Aquarium’s new Shark Discovery attraction.

ON THE

COVER



Detail from Alfred Boisseau’s “Louisiana Indians Walking Along a Bayou,” part of the “Inventing Acadia” exhibit at the New Orleans Museum of Art. ©NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART: GIFT OF WILLIAM E. GROVES, 56.34

(FROM TOP) ©LORD OF MERINGUES; ©NEW ORELANS MUSEUM OF ART; ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE

NOV

Crescent City chefs are pushing boundaries and serving up some seriously fun dishes.

wheretraveler.com

6

THE

EDITOR’S NOTE 2019

NOVEMBER

DOUG BRANTLEY Editor, WhereTraveler ® New Orleans @whereneworleans

8

W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

D

uring my childhood, my father worked for a local meat distributor, servicing such legendary New Orleans eateries as Brennan’s and Tujague’s. Every Friday we would go out to dinner, where invariably he would ask to tour the restaurant’s kitchen. The one caveat was that my brother and I couldn’t just order hamburgers; each week we had to try something new, different and fun.

This month, we peek into the city’s contemporary kitchens, where “cooks are having fun cooking,” incorporating playful approaches to culinary classics. We also check out November’s cornucopia of food fests, celebrating everything from cheese to po’boys. Elsewhere we get all touchy-feely with sharks at the Audubon Aquarium, explore “Acadia” at the New Orleans Museum of Art and roam Oak Street.

“Dear Evan Hansen,” Saints and Pelicans home games, the Battle of the Bands—dig in and have fun!

ACROSS THE WORLD WhereTraveler ® is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world.

Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at www.wheretraveler.com.

UNITED STATES Atlanta, Boston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/ Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Gold Coast, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/ Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg, Turin, Venice

NOVEMBER 2019

NEW ORLEANS

- U.S.A. Today

Wood Grilled Redfish & Louisiana Lump Crabmeat Tasso ham & roasted mushrooms, Pontalba potatoes, lemon butter sauce

A Best Seafood Restaurant in U.S.A - Travel & Leisure

115 BOURBON ST, FRENCH QUARTER

Reservations 504-598-1200 • www.redfishgrill.com

Breakfast at “Best Restaurants in the World” - Conde Nast Traveler

“South’s Top 10

Best Restaurants”

- Southern Living Magazine

“Restaurant of the Year”

- New Orleans Magazine

4 1 7 R O YA L S T, F R E N C H Q UA R T E R BREAKFAST / LUNCH

•

DINNER

Reservations 504.525.9711

•

PRIVATE EVENTS

www.brennansneworleans.com

WhereTraveler® magazine is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, www.morrismedianetwork.com. Where magazine and the logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. Where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited.

Top 10 Seafood Restaurant

EDITORIAL & DESIGN EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Margaret Martin MANAGING EDITOR

Jennifer McKee EDITOR

Doug Brantley CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Jennifer Keller Vaz ART DIRECTOR

Ron Vaz

PHOTO EDITOR

Vincent Hobbs EXECUTIVE PRESIDENT

Donna W. Kessler CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Dennis Kelly

VICE PRESIDENT, OPERATIONS

Angela E. Allen

DIRECTOR OF DIGITAL OPERATIONS

Jamie Turner

DIRECTOR OF CIRCULATION

Scott Ferguson

CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER CUSTOM PUBLICATIONS

Haines Wilkerson

MANUFACTURING & PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING

Donald Horton

PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR

Karen Fralick

PUBLICATION SERVICES MANAGER

Mickey Kibler

IMAGE AND RETOUCH MANAGER

Erik Lewis

HOSPITALITY RELATIONS & DISTRIBUTION REGIONAL MANAGER

Amy Fenster Brown ADVERTISING

JAMES G. ELLIOTT CO., INC. EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

Pat O’Donnell

GROUP PUBLISHER SOUTHEAST REGION

Mark Reid PUBLISHER

Lois Sutton, 504.522.6468, l.sutton@jgeco.com ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Stephanie Cantrell, 504.522.6468, s.cantrell@ jgeco.com Ashlea Kellyl, 504.522.6468, a.kelly@jgeco.com Unless otherwise indicated, emails for all of the above except contributors: firstname.lastname@morris.com

MVP | NEW ORLEANS 324 Chartres St., 2nd fl., New Orleans, LA 70130 504.522.6468 MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS

CHAIRMAN

William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO

William S. Morris IV



Friends don’t let Friends eat Frozen Fish!

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

9

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Metairie

French Quarter

Uptown

Mid City

3000 Severn Ave.

539 Bienville St.

2109 Magazine St.

509 N.Carrolltion

504.888.7080

504.875.2929

504.309.7702

504.324.7718

www.Orleansshoes.com



EXPERT TIP: There is beauty outside of the French Quarter.

Q: AND FOR OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES? A: City Park is beauti-

Festival…and definitely at the Parkway Bakery stand.

Q: NAME AN OFTEN-OVERLOOKED AREA OF THE CITY VISITORS SHOULD SEEK OUT. A: I encourage guests

to explore the Tremé neighborhood; it has such rich history and such amazing stories. French Quarter Phantoms does a great tour.

REBECCA THRIFT

Tremé has such rich history and such amazing stories.

CONCIERGE AT LE MERIDIEN HOTEL

bananas Foster French toast and excellent bloody marys; Palace Café, which has a fab-

Q: WHERE WOULD YOU GUIDE GUESTS IN SEARCH OF A FUN DINING SPOT?

A: I love Café Sbisa on Decatur Street. It’s a family-owned, Creole restaurant with a beautiful balcony you can eat on. They also have live jazz music on Friday and Saturday nights. That’s always a fun experience.

Q: WHAT DO YOU MISS MOST ABOUT NEW ORLEANS WHEN YOU TRAVEL? A: The rhythm of the city;

it moves at a different pace.

Q: AS A CONCIERGE, WHAT ARE YOU MOST THANKFUL FOR? A: My concierge family,

and being able to make the guest’s experience the best it can be.



Q: ANY BREAKFAST SUGGESTIONS? A: The Ruby Slipper, for

ulous jazz brunch; and Commerce Restaurant, for a no-frills, home-style breakfast, where you’ll be treated like family.

ful, and offers so much.

There are adventurous things like paddleboats and kayaking. There’s a miniature golf course and the New Orleans Museum of Art, which has a gorgeous outdoor sculpture garden.

©DOUG BRANTLEY

Q: THE OAK STREET PO-BOY FESTIVAL OR THE TREMÉ CREOLE GUMBO FEST: WHERE ARE WE MOST LIKELY TO FIND YOU? A: Probably at the Po-Boy

OPEN Select Nights November 29 through December 30

AudubonZooLights.org Buy Online and SAVE

12

W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

NOVEMBER 2019

earth & sky. THROUGH DECEMBER 2019.

MIYA ANDO. DOUG FOLTZ. JENNIFER MOSES. CLAIRE MCARDLE. CLYDE BUTCHER. 221 royal street. new orleans. windsorfineart.com. 504.586.0202.

W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M / N E W- O R L E A N S / E V E N T S

WHAT’S HAPPENING

THE LINEUP

BIANCA DEL RIO

7 GREAT THINGS THIS MONTH Bayou Bacchanal Nov. 2 That colorful Carnival procession parading through the French Quarter? Follow it to Crescent Park for a daylong celebration of the

14

W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

NOVEMBER 5-10

Adolescent angst, peer pressure, popularity (and the lack thereof), depression, deception, cyber-bullying, teen suicide: These are not the makings of your standard Broadway musical. And that’s exactly why “Dear Evan Hansen” racked up six Tony Awards in 2017, and continues to pack houses on its nationwide tour, which pulls into the Saenger Theatre this month. Haunting and heart-wrenching, “Hansen” is also a surprisingly funny and uplifting coming-of-age story that will stick with you long after curtain call. www.saengernola.com

“DEAR EVAN HANSEN”

city’s Caribbean culture. www.bayoubacchanal.org New Orleans Saints Nov. 10 & 24 The Black and Gold tackle two hardcore rivals at the Mercedes-Benz Superdome this month, taking on the Atlanta Flacons (Nov. 10), followed by the Carolina Panthers (Nov. 24). Both kick-offs are at noon and are preceded by free fan fests in the Dome-adjacent Champions Square. www.mbsuperdome.com Bianca Del Rio Nov. 10 New Orleans’ own winner of “Ru Paul’s Drag Race” —aka the “clown in a

gown”—returns home with her new “It’s Jester Joke” tour at the Orpheum Theater. www.orpheum nola.com Jonas Brothers Nov. 12 Kevin, Joe and Nick pull into the Smoothie King Center. Let the squealing begin. www.smoothieking center.com Weird Homes Tour Nov. 16 Sneak a peek into some of the city’s most unconventional and uniquely decorated (OK, bizarre) living spaces on this self-guided excursion. www.weird homestour.com

New Orleans Pelicans Nov. 27 Former Pelican Anthony Davis rebounds into the Smoothie King Center for the first time since joining the Los Angeles Lakers. For a full roster of November’s home games, visit www.smoothieking center.com.

Bayou Classic Nov. 29-30 Grambling and Southern universities go head-tohead in this 35th annual gridiron matchup at the Superdome. But the big competition is the Battle of the Bands, which takes place the prior evening. www.mybayouclassic.com

NOVEMBER 2019

(LEFT) ©RENE KOALA; (RIGHT) ©MATTHEW MURPHY.2018

CALENDAR

“DEAR EVAN HANSEN”



THE

NEW ORLEANS

WHERE NOW

W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

Playing With Their Food New Orleans chefs are having fun in the kitchen In the food world, dishes tend to take wide pendulum swings. One moment the rage is simple ingredients and tiny portions; the next it’s all about wild, overflowing combinations.

What’s evident in New Orleans right now: Cooks are having fun cooking.

Menus are filled with playful dishes underscored by serious technique. Credit chef Peter Vazquez (more on him later), well-recognized for leading the charge in tweaking classics and thinking outside the box, followed by next-gen chef Mason Hereford (Turkey and the Wolf, Molly’s Rise and Shine) who has made food fun an imperative—and, in turn, given “permission” for loads of local chefs to let loose and take us all on the ride.

Hold on tight. New Orleans chefs are pushing dining boundaries in a big way—and it’s fantastic fun. BY LORIN GAUDIN

1

Where Now

2

3



(FROM TOP RIGHT) ©THE COUNTRY CLUB; ©BAR MARILOU; ©SAINT GERMAIN; (OPENING PAGE) ©LORIN GAUDIN

4

1 THE APPETITE REPAIR SHOP

3 THE COUNTRY CLUB

400 VALLETTE ST., 504.602.9990; WWW.APPETITEREPAIR.COM

634 LOUISA ST., 504.945.0742; WWW.THECOUNTRYCLUBNEWORLEANS.COM

2 SAINT GERMAIN

4 BAR MARILOU

3054 ST. CLAUDE AVE., 504.218.8729; WWW.SAINTGERMAINNOLA.COM

544 CARONDELET ST., 504.814.7711; WWW.BARMARILOU.COM

Chef Pete Vazquez’s current culinary circus is filled with foods based on whim that often flaunt convention. Fans anxiously await his trippy menus to appear on social media. One day there may be a KFC-inspired bowl of meatloaf, mashed potatoes, gravy, corn and slaw; the next could bring a tikkaspiced turkey burger stuffed with chicken curry or cucumber raita wrapped in naan. For dessert, how about the chef ’s own “Kit-Kat” bars with crème anglaise?

The chef/owners of this casual, 16-seat, dinner-by-reservation-only restaurant explore unique ingredients and cooking preparations for their frequently changing menu. Recently there was grilled lobster legs with lobster tomalley barbecue sauce; boudin noir with green apple and fried rosemary; mackerel with pumpkin dashi; and cured-peach ice cream, smoked and frozen almond milk with salted caramel and honey-butter chips.

Husband and wife chef duo, Chris and Lisa Barbato, have crafted a menu that matches the Country Club to a “C”... you gotta “see” it. A tangle of fried rice noodles top a Vietnamese-inspired salt-and-pepper chicken salad dressed with lime vinaigrette; a reimagined French “dip” of shaved lamb, crispy shallots and au jus on a locally made baguette; and, in a nod to the legendary voodoo queen, there’s the decadent, scratch-made, sweet cream, chocolate sauce and brownie “Marie L Aveau” ice cream sundae.

Bright, colorful and chic, here you’ll find smart dishes with a touch of intellectual humor. Quoting Albert Camus—“Creer, c’est vivre deux fois” (to create is to live twice) tags the Instagram image of “Crushed Strawberries” topping toasted cinnamon croissant, browned butter, maple syrup and vanilla mousse. On the savory side, architectural multilayered potato cubes, each crowned with a scoop of crème fraîche and bowfin caviar, form “Pommes Marilou.”

17

Where Now

2727 S. BROAD ST., 504.491.4333; WWW.PIETYANDDESIRECHOCOLATE.COM

5

7 DRINK BEAUTY

Crisp, sweet clouds in bold colors, shapes and tastes. Chef Ehren Abbott bends the rules with hand-painted, pear-and-ginger meringue bark, cocoa-dusted pavlovas filled with bourbon caramel and a dollop of peanut butter and mushrooms you’d swear had just been plucked from the forest… except they taste like chocolate or caramel. The flavor list is endlessly entertaining and divine.

Pop into this pink palace for colorful coffee concoctions. As pretty as they are tasty, these lattes come sprinkled with sassy stenciled words that lean adult-friendly. Get a giant, house-baked cookie to go with a “Day Dream” latte, made purple with butterfly pea flower powder, or a “Lit From Within” espresso, laced with honey, cinnamon and CBD oil, and— as the cup instructs—“suck it up.”

WWW.LORDOFMERINGUES.COM

3424 MAGAZINE ST., 504.766.0873; WWW.INSTAGRAM.COM@DRINK BEAUTY_NOLA

7

6

“New Orleans chefs are pushing dining boundaries in a big way— and it’s fantastic fun.”

18

W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

NOVEMBER 2019

(CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT) ©DRINK BEAUTY; ©LORD OF MERINGUES; ©PIETY AND DESIRE CHOCOLATE

Chef Christopher Nobles’ handmade bean-to-bar-to-bonbons are extraordinary and clever. In homage to (greatest of all time) Saints quarterback Drew Brees, there is a confection of goat’s milk caramel over dark chocolate goat’s milk ganache. The full collection has chocolates called Tiki Bar, Trust Fund Gutter Punk and Jasmine Jazz, Man!, to name a few.

6 LORD OF MERINGUES



AND DESIRE 5 PIETY CHOCOLATE

LIFE ON THE MISSISSIPPI



(ALL IAMGES) ©NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF FINE ART

L

ong before the late, legendary chef Paul Prudhomme introduced Cajun cuisine to a global audience in the 1970s, artists were exporting Louisiana landscapes to the world at large. Inventing Acadia: Painting and Place In Louisiana, opening Nov. 16 at the New Orleans Museum of Art, examines the evolution of local landscape painting during the 19th century and the formation of a new school of art that was very different from anywhere else in the nation. The first major exhibition of its kind in more than 40 years, “Acadia” continues through January. www.noma.org

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: “A PLANTATION BURIAL,” BY JOHN ANTROBUS; “SPIRIT OF LOUISIANA,”

BY GEORGE DAVID COULON; “BACK OF ALGIERS,” BY RICHARD CLAGUE; “AFTER A STORM—LAKE MAUREPAS,”

BY JOSEPH RUSLING MEEKER; AND “LIFE ALONG A LOUISIANA BAYOU,”

BY EVERETT B.D. FABRINO JULIO

19

Where Now

Fall Food Fests

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: OAK STREET PO’BOY FEST; BOUDIN, BOURBON AND BEER; TREMÉ CREOLE GUMBO FESTIVAL; AND FÊTE DES FROMAGES

Oak Street Po-Boy Festival

That noise rising from the Riverbend neighborhood Nov. 3? That’s the sound of thousands of po’boy fans munching on more than 60-plus variations of the city’s signature sandwich. From the traditional (hot sausage, fried shrimp) to the not-so (escargot, smothered rabbit,) to the wayout-there (pork belly-deviled egg, duck debris with goose-fat fried duck skin), there’s something for every appetite.

Emeril Lagasse’s annual chow down brings together more than 70 top talents from around the nation, serving up haute takes on the humble Cajun sausage. Taking place Nov. 8 at Champions Square, the open-bar affair also features a number of great music acts, including Grace Potter and Trombone Shorty. www.boudinbourbonandbeer.com

Fête des Fromages

Gumbos great and small are the get here.

This year’s gathering joins with the Congo Square Rhythms Festival for one big blowout Nov. 16-17 at Armstrong Park.

It might sound cheesy—and it is—but in its second year, this wildly popular event already ranks (get it?) as the biggest cheese festival in the U.S. Nibble on more than 150 varieties Nov. 16, while sipping wine and listening to live music on the grounds of the New Orleans Jazz Museum.

www.jazzandheritage.org/treme-gumbo

www.fetedesfromages.com

www.poboyfest.com

Tremé Creole Gumbo Festival

20

Boudin, Bourbon and Beer

W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

NOVEMBER 2019

 (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©RED FISH GRILL; CHERYL GERBER/BOUDIN, BOURBON AND BEER; ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©FÊTE DES FROMAGES; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE

Thanksgiving may be the big November meal, but you’ll find lots to chew on around town in the weeks leading up to Turkey Day.



©PHOTO CREDIT

Fin Fun

The Audubon Aquarium of the Americas encourages visitors to get hands-on with sea-life conservation with its recently opened Shark Discovery attraction. Guests can interact with zebra, bamboo, epaulette and coral catshark varieties in its new 60-foot-long, 13,000-gallon touchpool, which features a large LED screen offering info on the exhibit’s endangered inhabitants and their important role in the marine ecosystem. Dive even deeper with Escape Extinction: Sharks, a kid-friendly, escape room-style adventure that explores shark-conservation issues via interactive games and puzzles. www.audubonatureinstitute.org/aquarium 21

SPECI A L A DV ERT ISING SECT ION

H O L I D A Y

GIFT GUIDE

Searching for a standout stocking stuffer, or that something special for that special someone?

Add a bit of Crescent City charm to your gift-giving this season.

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION THE SHOP AT THE COLLECTION Remember your time in New Orleans year after year with a keepsake ornament. These hand-blown glass ornaments come in multiple designs, each capturing a different aspect of the city’s colorful culture. Item shown is $45. Shipping available. 520 Royal St. Open Tu–Sa, 9:30 am–4:30 pm, and Su, 10:30 am–4:30 pm. (504) 598-7147. www.hnoc.org/shop.

BEVOLO GAS AND ELECTRIC LIGHTS The Governor Pool House Lantern from Bevolo, can be used to fill the night with a soft candlelight glow, display seasonal items, or your favorite collections. Available in antique copper or stainless steel.

304/316/318 Royal St. French Quarter, Bevolo.com

MARDI GRAS WORLD Mardi Gras World not only gives you an authentic carnival experience year-round, it boasts a unique shop full of Mardi Gras treasures like these 14oz double old fashioned rocks glasses. With beautiful gold details, they come with two different prints to choose from – a crown or masks. 1380 Port of New Orleans, Louisiana 70130, 504-361-7821, www. mardigrasworld.com

BUNGALOWS Bungalows, Julie Vos designed and handcrafted to the standards of fine jewelry. Made of semiprecious stones, pearl and imported glass, handset in 24k gold plate.

A variety of collections available at Bungalow’s, 719 Royal St. (504) 522.9222 www.ShopBungalows.com

22

W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

NOVEMBER 2019

SPECI A L A DV ERT ISING SECT ION

VINTAGE 329 Specializing in barware from the 50s & 60s.

Pictured: Scandinavian Etched Cordial, Culver Red Paisley Old Fashioned, Fred Press red & gold cordial, Culver Red Paisley Tumbler, Pink & Blue “Wet Your Whistle” Swizzle Sticks, Culver Valencia Pitcher, Georges Briard Firenze Tumbler, Culver blue, green & gold juice glass, Mosaic gold, blue & green cordial. 329 Royal Street, (504) 525-2262

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION Like the original, these Corkcicle insulated tumblers keep drinks the perfect temperature, but only The Shop at The Collection has the stately pelican design (perfect for a new Louisiana resident). $29 each. Shipping available. 520 Royal St. Open Tu–Sa, 9:30 am–4:30 pm, and Su, 10:30 am–4:30 pm. (504) 598-7147. www.hnoc.org/shop.

ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO Watch masters of the ancient art create, quality, affordable blown glass in the only New Orleans year-round studio. Located in an award-winning restored Art Deco movie theater and rated #2 art gallery on Tripadvisor. “Blow Your Own” sessions and group parties available. 446 Vallette, Historic Algiers Point, New Orleans, 70114 Open M-F 10-5, call for Saturday hours. 504 3663602, www.rosetreegallery.com

QUEORK

ADORN & CONQUER Adorn & Conquer, local and national

This women’s wallet is made using

artists. There’s something unique for

REAL CORK! The outer fabric is sealed

everyone, ranging from $10-$600.

with silicone making it durable like

Jewelry Artists are working in house,

leather, water resistant and easy to

stop by and say hello! 2727 Prytania St,

clean with a damp cloth. $65

inside The Rink Shopping Center, Suite 6,

838 Chartres Street, 504-481-4910,3005

504.702.8036,

Magazine St, 504-388-6803,

www.adornandconquer.com

www.queork.com

23

F O R M O R E T H I N G S T O D O O N O A K S T R E E T, V I S I T W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

ONE BLOCK FIND THE BEST ON

OAK STREET

BETWEEN S. CARROLLTON AND CAMBRONNE

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP:

DTB; AND RABBIT EARS

SHOP

LINGER

EAT

PLAY

Oak Street has been synonymous with shopping since the late 1800s. Bag locally sourced goods at Made Grocery, or sharpen up your knife skills at Coutelier. Vintage fans will be stuck on Glue and the Uptown Home Shop.

Nurse a latte at Rue de la Course (housed in a stunning former bank) or a Highlander Grog at artsy Z’otz (check out the restroom murals). Then rummage around More Fun Comics and Rabbit Ears for cool, kitschy collectibles.

Grab a Tru Burger (and don’t skip the shake), or dive into kicked-up Cajun classics (mushroom boudin balls, crab-and-collard gumbo) at DTB. Off beat Jacques-Imo’s is as famed for its quirky atmosphere (paintings on the ceiling) as it is for its shrimp-and-alligator cheesecake, “warm beer, lousy food, poor service.”

Generally low-key, Oak Street packs ’em in each November for the annual Po-Boy Festival (Nov. 3). Wine lovers will fall for the Oak Wine Bar, while beer geeks will want to hit Ale. A little late-night dancing? Head to the Maple Leaf Bar.

 Made Grocery 8201 Oak St., 504.273.7706

 Coutelier 8239 Oak St., 504.475.5606

 Glue Clothing Exchange 8206 Oak St.,

 Rue de la Course 1140 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.861.4343  Z’otz Café 8210 Oak St., 504.861.2224

 Oak Street Po-Boy Festival www.poyboyfest.com

 Tru Burger

 Oak Wine Bar 8118 Oak St., 504.302.1485

504.939.5865

8200 Oak St., 504.865.1800

8115 Oak St., 504.218.5416  DTB 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889

 Uptown Home Shop

 Rabbit Ears

 Jacques-Imo’s

 Maple Leaf Bar

8241 Oak St., 504.861.7984

8225 Oak St., 985.212.0274

8324 Oak St., 504.861.0886

8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359

26

W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

 More Fun Comics

 Ale on Oak 8124 Oak St., 504.324.6558

NOVEMBER 2019



PO-BOY FEST; COUTELIER;

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) ©ZACK SMITH/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©COUTELIER; ©MAX CUSIMANO/DTB; ©RABBIT EARS

OAK STREET

THE

GUIDE OUR

EYE-OPENERS

Jump-start the day with Josephine Estelle’s (p. 30) fried chicken biscuit with Calabrianhoney butter and pickles, Stumptown coffee... and a strong bloody mary.

FAVORITES

LOOK FOR our featured advertisers throughout the Guide.



©JOSEPHINE ESTELLE

Dining

DINING Central Business/ Warehouse District THE AMERICAN SECTOR AMERICAN. A nostalgic homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as Frito pie. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6; www.ww2eats.com BAR MARILOU FRENCH. With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisian-accented space is perfect for sipping an afternoon appertif while nibbling on sophisticated bites, such as crisped potato stacks topped with crème fraïche and caviar. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711. Map 3, D4; www.barmarilou.com

COCHON LOUISIANA. Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. L, D (daily).

930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; www.cochonrestaurant.com COMPANY BURGER AMERICAN. Adam Biderman’s award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320.

Map 1, D3; www.thecompany burger.com COMPÈRE LAPIN CARIBBEAN. A native of St. Lucia, chef Nina Compton’s

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THE GUIDE

CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS STEAKS. Forget the standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats.

D (nightly). 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5; www.chophousenola.com

island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes with pineapple tartar sauce and curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi. L, (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6; www.comperelapin.com COUVANT FRENCH. A slick, contemporary French bistro inside the Eliza Jane hotel. Standouts include English peas with duck egg and lardons, hanger steak Bordelaise and moules frites.

B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). 315 Magazine St., 504.324.5400.

Map 3, D5; www.couvant.com

D IN IN G

EMERIL’S LOUISIANA. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum and more. L (M-F), D (nightly). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; www.emerils.com JOSEPHINE ESTELLE ITALIAN. At this casual Ace Hotel eatery snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy, and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. B (M-F); L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3037. Map 3, C5; www.josephineestelle.com MAYPOP VIETNAMESE. Asian-fusion food in a bright, open space.

Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su).

611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345.

Map 3, B4 ; www.maypop restaurant.com MERIL INTERNATIONAL. Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the chef ’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. L, D (daily).

424 Girod St., 504.526.3745.

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Map 3, C6; www.emerils.com PÊCHE SEAFOOD. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better.

From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong.

L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; www.pecherestaurant.com RED GRAVY ITALIAN. This cozy brunch bistro offers traditional Italian dishes and not-so-typical breakfast and lunch specials.

Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Open W-M. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844.

Map 3, E5; www.redgravycafe.com SEAWORTHY SEAFOOD. This offshoot of New York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, East and West coasts and other sustainably sourced seafood.

D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071.

Map 3, C5; www.seaworthy nola.com WILLA JEAN BAKERY CONTEMPORARY. Pastry chef Kelly Fields, known for her beautiful baked goods, shows off her savory side as well in dishes such as braised lamb pasta with mint pesto. B, L (MF); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334.

Map 3, B4; www.willajean.com

French Quarter ACME OYSTER HOUSE SEAFOOD. For locals, the name Acme is synonymous with raw oysters. Since 1910, Acme’s signature marble-topped bar has served up countless bivalves on the half shell. Other regional specialties include fried oyster po’boys, gumbo Poopa and jambalaya.

L, D (daily). 724 Iberville St., 504.522.5973. Map 3, E4; 8 Canal St. (inside Harrah’s Casino), 504.708.2409. Map 3, E6; www.acmeoyster.com ANTOINE’S CREOLE. Established in 1840,

Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure with rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4; www.antoines.com ARNAUD’S CREOLE. In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of the many famous dishes. D (daily); jazz brunch (Su).

813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433.

Map 3, F4; www.arnauds.com BACKSPACE BAR & KITCHEN AMERICAN. This comfy spot pays homage to the French Quarter’s rich literary legacy.

The bar serves drinks fashioned after famed authors’ faves, while the kitchen offers gumbo and sandwiches. L, D (daily).

139 Chatres St., 504.322.2245.

Map 3, F4; wwww.backspace nola.com BOURBON HOUSE SEAFOOD. A standout addition to Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes share menu space with outstanding filets and sides— don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp.

B, L, D (daily). 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4; www.bourbonhouse.com BRENNAN’S CREOLE. The legendary establishment continues more than seven decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4; www.brennansneworleans.com CAFÉ BEIGNET COFFEE. Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun classics.

B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530.

Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St.,

504.581.6554. Map 3, G5; www.cafebeignet.com CAFÉ DU MONDE COFFEE. In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a mustdo. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans.

Open 24h (daily). 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; www.cafedumonde.com COURT OF TWO SISTERS CREOLE. No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu of Creole and Cajun cuisine. Br, D (daily). 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4; www.courtoftwosisters.com DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE STEAKS. An upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces—try the barbecued rib-eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters. D (nightly). 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4; www.dickiebrennanssteak house.com GALATOIRE’S CREOLE. Since 1905, Galatoire’s has been a gravity center of New Orleans. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff.

L, D (Tu-Su). 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4; www.galatoires.com HARD ROCK CAFÉ AMERICAN. This popular chain, filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. L, D (daily). 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617.

Map 3, F4; www.hardrockcafe.com ITALIAN BARREL ITALIAN. The focus here is on fine, Northern Italian cuisine.

Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso buco-topped polenta and top-notch tiramisu.

NOVEMBER 2019

Dining

L, D (daily). 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5; www.theitalianbarrel.com JUSTINE FRENCH. Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is both classic and contemporary in design, but the menu is full-on French: steak tartar, tuna Niçoise salad, moules frites. L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533. Map 3, E4; www.justinenola.com

Elegant Northern Italian Cuisine in a Quaint French Quarter Setting

430 Barracks Street (near the Historic French Market)

www.italianbarrel.com Reservations: 504.569.0198 | Catering or Private Parties: 504.982.6969 Open: Sunday - �ursday 11am - 10pm; Friday - Saturday 11am - 11pm Italian Breakfast: Monday - Friday 8am -11am; Saturday & Sunday 9am - 12pm

KILLER POBOYS CONTEMPORARY. This tiny hole-in-the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rumbraised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw. B, L, D (W-M).

219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731.

Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745.Map 3, F4; www.killerpoboys.com KRYSTAL AMERICAN. Since 1932 Krystal has been satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers. 24h (daily).

116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030.

Map 3, E4; www.krystal.com

A new spirited sanctuary for cocktails, French fare and easy elegance. Located at Maison de la Luz and in partnership with Parisian group Quixotic Projects.

544 Carondelet Street

barmarilou.com

@barmarilou

LONGWAY TAVERN ECLECTIC. A proper gastropub with a comfy chic interior, solid familiar cocktails and smart, sexy food. The pork belly home fries, fried calamari and hefty steak sandwiches will make you linger. L (F-Su), D (nightly).

719 Toulouse St., 504.962.9696.

Map 3, G4; www.longway tavern.com MR. B’S BISTRO LOUISIANA. Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene.

Must-tries include the barbe-

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Reservations Recommended

K-PAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN LOUISIANA. Chef-personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience.

His restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, such as bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders.

D (M-Sa). 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530.Map 3, F4; www.kpauls.com

cued shrimp and bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce. L (M-Sa), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Su).

201 Royal St., 504.523.2078.

Map 3, E4; www.mrbsbistro.com NAPOLEON HOUSE LOUISIANA. Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas.

L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; www.napoleonhouse.com NOLA AMERICAN. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter bistro’s small plates-focused menu is perfect for table-sampling its 40-plus dishes. Must-trys include the hot frog legs, stuffed chicken wings and oyster-and-brie pot pie. L, D (daily). 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652.

Map 3, F5; www.emerils.com

D IN IN G

PALACE CAFÉ CREOLE. Part of the Brennan restaurant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake and andouille-crusted Gulf fish.

B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4; www.palacecafe.com

504.553.2277. Map 3, E4; www.revolutionnola.com TABLEAU CREOLE. Housed in historic Le Petit Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes. L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (daily).

616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463.

Map 3, G4; www.tableaufrench quarter.com TUJAGUE’S CREOLE. Open since 1856, Tujague’s (“two-jacks”) ranks as one of the city’s oldest eateries. The restaurant serves a traditional Creole prix fixe menu (shrimp remoulade and beef brisket to start, followed by a choice of entrée and pecan pie), along with contemporary a la carte offerings. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 823 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, H5; www.tujaguesrestaurant.com

Garden District/ Lower Garden District COMMANDER’S PALACE CREOLE. This beloved turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers. Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere.

L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; www.commanderspalace.com COQUETTE CONTEMPORARY. What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have fried chicken.

D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421.

Map 1, D4; www.coquettenola.com MOLLY’S RISE & SHINE BREAKFAST. The sandwich

gurus behind Turkey and the Wolf also operate this equally funky breakfast spot. Collard greens and grits, sweet potato burritos, deviled egg tostadas—expect the unexpected.

B (W-M). 2368 Magazine St., 504.302.1896. Map 1, D4; www.mollysriseandshine.com TURKEY AND THE WOLF ECLECTIC. Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, chicken fried steak. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. L (W-M).

739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428.

Map 1, D4; www.turkeyandthe wolf.com

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL ECLECTIC. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a restaurant. Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L, D (daily).

RED FISH GRILL SEAFOOD. Grilled fish too plain? Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, double-chocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. L, D (daily).

115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200.

Map 3, E4; www.redfish grill.com RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION LOUISIANA. Chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. L (F), D (nightly); Br (Su). 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel),

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NOVEMBER 2019

Fresh oysters, Southern-inspired cocktails and weekend brunch from 11am–3pm, starting August 31.

630 Carondelet St. 504 930 3071 @seaworthynola seaworthynola.com

BYWATER AMERICAN BISTRO AMERICAN. The menu at this casual neighborhood spot focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. Farro risotto with mushrooms and minted breadcrumbs, fried Gulf oysters with oyster gravy; try the rabbit curry. D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su).

2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827.

Map 1, E3; www.bywater americanbistro.com THE COUNTRY CLUB LOUISIANA. Known for its swimming pool, this Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crabmeat beignets, clams and chorizo), salads or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; www. thecountryclubneworleans.com

Mid-City

Happy Hour 3-6 PM Daily in our Oyster Bar! Book your reservation on Open Table.

510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

BLUE OAK BBQ BARBECUE. Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. If the barbecued pork egg rolls make a menu appearance, get them. L, D, (Tu-Su). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3; www.blueoakbbq.com

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PALADAR 511 CONTEMPORARY. California cooking New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su).

511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782.

Map 3, J5; www.paladar511.com ST. ROCH MARKET ECLECTIC. Dating to 1875, this long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character and 24 steel columns.

The stunning space features 11 food vendors, along with a bar. L, D (daily). 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813.Map 1, E3; www.strochmarket.com

Enjoy an afternoon drink on our courtyard

Dining

600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111.

Map 1, E3; www.bacchanal wine.com

RALPH’S ON THE PARK LOUISIANA. Veteran restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000.

Map 1, D2; www.ralphsonthepark.com

PICNIC PROVISIONS & WHISKEY SOUTHERN. Crawfish-boil hot fried chicken anchors the menu at this playful Commander’s Palace offshoot.

Begin with the smoked fish dip and finish with cookie-dough s’mores. L, D (daily). 741 State St., 504.266.2810. Map 1, D4; www.nolapicnic.com

TOUPS’ MEATERY LOUISIANA. Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. L, D (TuSa); Br (Sa-Su). 845 Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999.Map 1, D3; www.toupsmeatery.com

SABA MEDITERRANEAN. Chef Alon Shaya provides a taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as octopus with shawarma spices. L (W-F), D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine St., 504.324.7770. Map 3, D4; www.eatwithsaba.com

Uptown

SH O P P IN G

CAVAN SOUTHERN. This Victorian home’s “beautiful deterioration” is an ideal setting for modern Southern cuisine.

Start with the crawfish-andgoat cheese king cake before tackling the double burger with Sazerac BBQ sauce. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4; www.cavannola.com DEL FUEGO MEXICAN. Chef David Wright’s ramped-up taqueria is based on recipes and techniques gathered during travels to Mexico. House-made tortillas wrap around duck enchiladas with Oaxacan mole, while tostadas are topped with smoked Gulf fish. L, D (M-Sa). 4518 Magazine St., 504.309.5797. Map 1, D4 ; www.delfuegotaqueria.com DTB CAJUN. Short for “down the bayou,” DTB pays homage to late chef Carl Schaubhut’s Cajun country roots with mod twists on Louisiana coastal cuisine. Think gumbo with crab fat potato salad and crispy duck confit with charred cabbage and sweet potatoes. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889. Map 1, C3; www.dtbnola.com

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SHOPPING Art Galleries & Antiques A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY The city’s most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4; www.agallery.com ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries.

927 Royal St., 504.304.0849.

Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4; www.antieaugallery.com ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’ leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999.

Map 3, C5; www.arthurroger gallery.com ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for undiscovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features

NOVEMBER 2019

BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.522.9485.

Map 3, F4; www.bevolo.com CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; www.craigtracy.com

FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY Award-winning photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others.

910 Royal St., 504.388.7601.

Map 3, H4; www.frankrelle.com JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This gallery is home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and others.

Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured.

400A Julia St., 504.522.5471.

Map 3, C6; www.jonathanferrara gallery.com M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English

MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable.

You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes.

617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4; www.michalopoulos.com MODERNIST CUISINE GALLERY Photographer Nathan Myhrvold focuses on the science of cooking and cutting-edge culinary techniques. 305 Royal St., 504.571.5157.Map 3, F4; www.modernist cuisinegallery.com MYTH GALLERY Part animal/part human, Betsy Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also showcases the whimsical sculpture of R. Scott Long. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312.Map 3, H4; www.myth-gallery.com SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERY Step into this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.”

4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4; www.ashleylongshore.com TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life.

3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; www.terranceosborne.com VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this hip shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Vintage sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and retro barware are

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THE GUIDE

FISCHER-GAMBINO An eclectic shop specializing in fine lighting fixtures, as well as statuary, furniture and home interesting home accents.

637 Royal St., 504.524.9067.

Map 3, G4; www.lighting neworleans.com

furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660.

Map 3, G4; www.rauantiques.com

Shopping

works—oil paintings, photography, pottery, blown glass, masks—by dozens of regional artists. 85 French Market Place, 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5; www.artistsmarketnola.com

among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This fine art gallery features original works from the old masters (Durer, Rembrandt) and masters of the belle époque, (Cheret, Lautrec, Mucha) to the modern masters (Picasso, Dali, Miro, Matisse, Chagall) and the biggest names in post-war contemporary art (Warhol, Francis, Frankenthaler, Motherwell).

Internationally renowned contemporary artists and sculpture are also featured. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4; www.windsorfineart.com

Books & Music

SH O P P IN G

BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare, antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5; www.beckhamsbookshop.com FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction.

624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940.

Map 3, G4; www. faulkner housebooks.com LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Live performances on Saturdays.

421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; www.louisianamusicfactory.com

Clothing DIRTY COAST You won’t find your standard Bourbon Street T-shirts here.

Catering to locals and in-theknow visitors, Dirty Coast’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans.

713 Royal St., 504.324.6730.

Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745.Map 1, D4; www.dirtycoast.com

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GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s hip headwear and stylish stores are found nationwide. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2127 Magazine St., 504.522.1890.

Map 1, D3; www.goorin.com

Bungalow’s

QUEORK Cork is the get at this sleek boutique, where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more.

838 Chartres St., 504.481.2585.

Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.388.6803.Map 1, D4; www.queork.com UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs at drastically reduced prices. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4; www.shopual.com

UPCYCLED DESIGNER STADIUM BAGS

(504) 522-9222 719 Royal St New Orleans LA 70116 © Copyright 2017-Ronaldo Designer Jewelry, Inc-All rights reserved

Gifts & Collectibles BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and great gift items.

719 Royal St., 504.522.9222.

Map 3, G4; www.shop bungalows.com DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with his decorative pottery. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4; www.derbypottery.com HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERY This magical emporium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558.

Map 3, I5; www.hexwitch.com

F E AT U RE D ART I ST: J OAN S L I F KA

ESTATE & CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELRY NEW ORLEANS & VINTAGE CHARMS 534 Royal St. • (504) 522-1305 www.lapetitfleur.com

NOVEMBER 2019

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AROUND THE SQUARE EXPERIENCE THE CHARM OF THE HISTORIC FRENCH QUARTER New Orleans Premier Destination for Niche Fragrance 608 Rue Bienville, New Orleans, LA 70130 MadameAucoinPerfume.com

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Curing the world of ugly shoes… One pair at a time!

510 St. Peter (504) 252-9144

324 Chartres Street (504) 523-7463

www.ShoeBeDoUSA.com D

WWW.NOLAFOOTCANDY.COM

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Shopping

LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770.

Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5; www.littletoyshopnola.com NOLA KIDS This children’s boutique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth, along with toys, books and great gift items. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340.

Map 3, F4; www.shopnola kids.com

Health & Beauty/Spas

THE SPA AT THE RITZ-CARLTON This luxurious, award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms.

921 Canal St., 504.670.2929.

Map 3, E3; www.ritzcarlton.com WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10 private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate French clay, roses and water lilies. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200.

Map 3, E3; www.roosevelt neworleans.com TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these centrally located relaxation stations, which specialize in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500

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THE GUIDE

MADAME AUCOIN PERFUME “The oldest perfumer in the South” lives on thanks to her great grand-nephew, who recently reopened shop in her former residence. Artisanal fragrance lines are featured.

608 Bienville St., 985.665.2123 Map 3, F4; www.madame aucoinperfume.com

Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7

Jewelry ADLER’S Since 1898, Adler’s has been New Orleans’ most respected repository for fine jewelry, watches, china and silver.

722 Canal St., 504.523.5292.

Map 3, E4; 3301 Veteran’s Blvd., Metairie, 504.523.1952.

Map 1, C2; www.adlers jewelry.com ADORN & CONQUER Metalsmith Maria Fomich encorporates New Orleans elements (shotgun houses, gas lamps) and bits of nature in her handmade jewelry designs.

2727 Prytania St., Suite 6, 702.8036. Map 1, D4; www.adornandconquer.com

AT T R A C T IO N S

ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget.

Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; www. artandeyesneworleansla.com FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron, St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254.

Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4; www.fleurdorleans.com LA PETIT FLEUR Specializing in estate and contemporary jewelry, La Petit Fleur is well known for its own line of pendants based on the fleur de lis. The shop also offers NOLA-themed charms.

534 Royal St., 504.522.1305.

Map 3, G4; www.lapetit fleur.com

Malls/ Major Retailers LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently

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located near the city and the airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, Macy’s, Michael Kors, Microsoft and Sephora.

3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2; www.lakesideshopping.com THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Located along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the nation’s first urban outlet center offers more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio.

500 Port of New Orleans Place, 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7; www.riverwalkneworleans.com THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5; www. theshopsatcanalplace.com

Shoes GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop for professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers to dress shoes.

539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929.

Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2; www.orleansshoes.com JOHN FLUEVOG “Unique soles for unique souls.” This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers.

321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296.

Map 3, F4; www.fluevog.com NOLA FOOT CANDY Sweet treats for your feet.

Located along Jackson Square, this womens shoe shop stocks a wide variety of fun and fashionable styles. 510 St. Peter St., 504.252.9144. Map 3, G4; www.nolafootcandy.com SHOE BE DO Get a step ahead with cutting-edge women’s footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres

LIGHTING - ART - FURNITURE 637 Royal Street, New Orleans, LA 504.524.9067 / 888.524.9067 www.lightingneworleans.com

NOVEMBER 2019

Special Services

Discover Authentic New Orleans Visit Visit The The Historic Historic New New Orleans Orleans Collection Collection today today to to discover discover more more than than 300 300 years years of of history, history, art, art, and and culture culture from the the city, city, the the state, state, and and the the region. region. View View original original from artifacts artifacts in in the the museum’s museum’s permanent permanent and and changing changing exhibitions. Tour Tour the the elegant elegant French French Quarter Quarter residence residence exhibitions. of of the the institution’s institution’s founders, founders, and and browse browse the the museum museum shop, shop, stocked stocked with with locally locally inspired inspired gifts, gifts, prints, prints, jewelry, jewelry, and and books. books. Admission Admission is is free, free, and and details details on on current current exhibitions exhibitions and and events events are are available available at at www.hnoc.org. www.hnoc.org.

PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICES This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with 40 related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415.

Map 1, D4; www.packrat shipping.com

ATTRACTIONS Attractions & Landmarks ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre green space is home to Congo Square, where jazz is believed to have first taken root.

N. Rampart and St. Ann streets.

Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This award-winning aquarium counts the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Admission includes a ticket for the Entergy Giant Screen Theater.

Open Tu-Su at 10 am; call for closing hours. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6; www.auduboninstitute.org AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN & INSECTARIUM The nation’s largest museum devoted to insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured. Open Ti-Su at 10 am; call for closing times. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5; www.auduboninstitute.org AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36).

St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4; www.auduboninstitute.org AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon

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THE GUIDE

Follow @visit_thnoc Follow us! us! @visit_thnoc 533 Royal Street & 400–410 533 Royal Street & 400–410 Chartres Chartres Street Street In the French Quarter In the French Quarter (504) 523-4662 523-4662 •• www.hnoc.org www.hnoc.org (504)

Attractions

St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; www.shoebedousa.com

Zoo is one of the finest in the U.S. Open Tu-Su at 10 am; call for closing hours. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4; www.auduboninstitute.org CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 Dreyfous Ave., 504.482.4888.

Map 1, D2; www.neworleans citypark.com FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market dates to pre-colonial days. Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1100 N. Peters St., 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5; www.frenchmarket.org

AT T R A C T IO N S

HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino features 2,100 slots, 104 table games, live entertainment and a lavish buffet. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6; www.harrahsneworleans.com JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo op. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5 MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4 pm. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8; www.mardigrasworld.com MERCEDES-BENZ SUPERDOME The recently revamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2; www.mbsuperdome.com NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This pocket park celebrates Bourbon Street’s musical legacy

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with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and live music.

311 Bourbon St., 504.888.7608.

Map 3, F4; www.neworleans musicallegends.com NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & STORE Creole/Cajun cooking demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm.

524 St. Louis St., 504.208.5320.

Map 3, F5; www.nosoc.com SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Superdome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2 ; www.smoothiekingcenter.com ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Mass said daily.

615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square), 504.525.9585.

Map 3, G4; www.stlouis cathedral.org

St. Joseph Plantation -Family owned since 1877.

St. Joseph Plantation -Original cabins of the Enslaved.

St.-Annual Joseph Plantation -Family owned since 1877.

Creole Mourning Tour the

-Original cabins of the Enslaved.

-Family owned since 1877. month of October.Tour the -Annual -OriginalCreole cabinsMourning of the Enslaved.

-Birthplace of 19th century architect, October.Tour -Annualmonth Creole of Mourning the Henry H. Richardson.

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3535 Hwy. 18 (River Road), Vacherie, 70090 -Tours offered seven days a week.

3535 Hwy. 18 (River Road), Vacherie, LA 70090

STJOSEPHPLANTATION.COM

3535 Hwy. 18 (River Road), Vacherie, LA 70090

STJOSEPHPLANTATION.COM STJOSEPHPLANTATION.COM

WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront promenade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6

Museums CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also plays host to performances. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6; www.cacno.org GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm. 1132 Royal St.,

NOVEMBER 2019

HERMANN-GRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/ museum provides a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past.

Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750. Map 3, F4; www.hgghh.org

Attractions

504.274.0748. Map 3, I4; www.hgghh.org

HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions and permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; www.hnoc.org

LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS The Louisiana State Museum operates a number of French Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbyère; the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum.

504.568.6968.www. louisiana statemuseum.org NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits. The Victory Theater shows the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries.”

945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944.

Map 3, B6; ww.nationalww2 museum.org NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an exten-

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THE GUIDE

LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUMS Kids learn through a “bajillion” hands-on activities at this award-winning museum.

The sprawling space offers a variety of interactive exhibits, along with a family-friendly café. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 11:30 am-4:30 pm. 15 Thomas Henry Dr. (City Park), St.,504.523.1357.www. lcm.org

sive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free outdoor sculpture garden.

Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm.

1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; www.noma.org OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open F-W, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; www.ogdenmuseum.org

EN T ER TA IN M EN T

SAZERAC HOUSE This free facility toasts “the official cocktail of New Orleans” with a variety of hands-on exhibits. Explore the evolution of city’s cocktail cultural, while nabbing samples along the way.

Open daily. 101 Magazine St., 504.910.0100. Map 3, E5; www.sazerachouse.com

Plantations HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds.

Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877.303.1776 for details.

40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380. www.houmas house.com

Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. Overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730. www.nottoway.com OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture-perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a spectacular sight.

“The Grande Dame of Great River Road” offers overnight accommodations in century-old cottages. Guided tours daily, 9 am-5 pm. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 888.279.9802. www.oakalleyplantation.org SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home, built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. Closed major holidays.

2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756. www.sanfrancisco plantation.org ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of 19th-century architect Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877. The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. 535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078. www.stjosephplantation.com

LAURA PLANTATION TripAdvisor’s top-rated River Road plantation tour authentically details 200 years of lives of Creole owners, women, slaves and children. The property features 12 historic structures, along with a slavery museum and French garden. Guided tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm. 2247 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. www.laura plantation.com

WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the public for the first time in its 265-year history, this plantation explores slavery through moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300. www.whitneyplantation.com

NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White Castle of Louisiana” is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South.

Cruises & Tours

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PRODUCTS & SERVICES Notary Public Copies, Fax & Scan

WE SHIP WINE!

FedEx, DHL, & USPS Shipping MON-FRI 9am - 6pm SAT 10am - 4pm SUN Closed

ENTERTAINMENT

AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore Louisiana swamplands via guided, high-speed

3436 MAGAZINE ST. | 504.899.5415

NOVEMBER 2019

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AND NEW ORLEANS Explore the history of four sugarcane plantations, whose wealth was once built on the economic engineExplore of slavery.

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CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides intimate group tours of the French Quarter, Garden District and area cemeteries, along with Hurricane Katrina recovery excursions and private outings.

Tours average 2.5 to three hours; rates vary. 504.587.7115. www.celebrationtoursllc.com CITY SIGHTSEEING This double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; www. citysightseeingneworleans.com CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; www.creolequeen.com FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS These guided walking tours cover everything from ghost and vampire lore to cemeteries and music. All tours depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street); reservations required. 718 N. Rampart St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4; www.frenchquarter phantoms.com GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS Gray Line offers a variety of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, Steamboat and River Cruises—and all possible combinations. All depart from the Toulouse Street Wharf.

Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; www.graylineneworleans.com HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers

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O N T H E G R E AT R I V E R R OA D LO C AT E D B E T W E E N BATO N R O U G E AND NEW ORLEANS

airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. 504.689.2005 or 888.

GO.SWAMP. www.airboat adventures.com

Entertainment

OAK ALLEY OAK ALLEY PLANTATION PLANTATION OAK ALLEY

a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. www.haunted historytours.com JEAN LAFITTE SWAMP TOURS This privately owned company with trained guides provides an up-close look at local flora and fauna. Daily swamp and airboat tours are offered. Transportation from area hotels available. 6601 Leo Kerner Lafitte Pkwy., Marrero, 504.529.4567. www.jeanlafitte swamptour.com

N IG H T L IF E

NEW ORLEANS SPIRITS AND SPELLS TOUR These guided spirited journeys through the French Quarter explore the ghosts, gris-gris and witchery associated with the world’s most magical city.

Departs Friday to Sunday at 7 pm from Hex: Old World Witchery. 1219 Decatur St., 504.667.5570. Map 3, I5; www.spiritsandspellstour.com RIVERBOAT CITY OF NEW ORLEANS The city’s newest riverboat has all of the flair and flavor of the city, with great dining, jazz, bars, history and culture. Daily jazz brunch and dinner cruises are offered. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401.

Map 3, E7; www.riverboatcity ofneworleans.com SAVE OUR CEMETERIES St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am, 11:30 am and 1 pm from Backatown Coffee Parlour (301 Basin St.). Lafayette No. 1: departs daily at 10:30 am and 1 pm from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). 504.525.3377. www.save ourcemeteries.org STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River,

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504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; www.steamboatnatchez.com

NIGHTLIFE Cocktails ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; www.arnauds.com EFFERVESCENCE This bubbly spot features 90-plus bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates, ranging from grilled octopus to caviar and potato chips. Open W-Su. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3; www.nolabubbles.com LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H4; www. lafittesblacksmithshop.com PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; www.patobriens.com THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip.

State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354.

Map 3, E4; www.penthouse clubneworleans.com SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic cocktails in the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.309.6530. Map 3, E3; www. therooseveltneworleans.com

We’ve combined five tours into ONE EXCITING CITY TOUR FRENCH QUARTER • KATRINA RECOVERY • HITORIC CHEMETERIES GARDEN DISTRICT • NEW ORLEANS ARCHITECTURE

ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE

WHEN YOU SEE LES CLEFS D’OR KEYS. PLAY. EXPLORE. FEAST. ACCOMPLISH. No one knows more or can do more for you than Les Clefs d’Or Concierges. Search beyond the internet, and discover for yourself why anything is possible with Les Clefs d’Or Concierges.

NOVEMBER 2019

D.B.A. This chic hangout on the Frenchmen strip features 20 premium draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and live music nightly. Lively weehours scene. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5; www.dbaneworleans.com

THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. A rotating roster of leading local talent is featured nightly. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map , F4; www. sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse

Live Entertainment APPLE BARREL This raffish joint is tiny but has a warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the crowded room. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J5

THE FILLMORE NEW ORLEANS Harrah’s Casino ups the live-music ante with this 22,000 sq.-ft. offshoot of the legendary San Francisco venue, which feaures top-tier national touring acts. 6 Canal St., 504.881.1555. Map 3, E6; www.fillmorenola.com

MAPLE LEAF A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a quintessential N’awlins experience: Fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3; www.mapleleafbar.com

BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish. Local acts perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.766.6193. Map 3, J5; www.bluenilelive.com

HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; www.hob.com

PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841.Map 3, G4; www.preservationhall.com SNUG HARBOR An elegant, intimate mainstay of Frenchmen Street’s music row. Two sets nightly.

626 Frenchmen St.,

504.949.0696.Map 3, J4; www.snugjazz.com THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual, laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) . 623 Frenchmen St., no phone.Map 3, J5; www.spotted catmusicclub.com

Nightlife

WALK-ON’S Within walking distance of the Superdome, this popular game-day gathering ground is part restaurant, part sports bar and all fun. 1009 Poydras St., 504.309.6530. Map 3, C3; www.walk-ons.com

STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Swing back to a bygone era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6; ww.stagedoorcanteen.org TIPITINA’S The legendary Tip’s offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; www.tipitinas.com

THE GUIDE 47

SPECI A L A DV ERT ISING SECT ION

MENTION WHERE MAGAZINE

S. RAMPART

SITY P

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CARIE EWERS

500

BURGUNDY

100 BARO

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400

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300 CONTI

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N. RAMPART

200

Louisiana Superdome

TOULOUSE

FOR $5 OFF YOUR* PSYCHIC READING!

IBERVILLE

1

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DAUPHINE HermannGrima House

6

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Bienville

6

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RFR Steam RIVE Gray Line Tour Natch Departures Woldenberg Riverfront Park

Harrah’s Casino

Aquarium of the Americas & Entergy Imax Algiers Theatre 6 Riverwalk Ferry Creole Queen

*

2 Steamboat

Who needs pumpkin spice when you have

3

Cannoli Pancakes?

Now, monthly Wine Dinners, too!

125 Camp Street | 504-561-8844 | www.redgravycafe.com

4

We can help make your trip to Vintage Designer Sunglasses & More 329 Royal Street New Orleans, LA 70130 504-525-2262 | vintage329.com

TCA

REE

ST ONT

LIA PIT OU TCH

1205 Decatur St. • 504.322.7440 Shop online at OmenSalem.com not valid with other offers.

CHARTRES

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MAGICAL GIFTS & GRIS-GRIS

ROYAL

Vieux Carré Police Station

CA

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Ernest N. Morial Convention Center

3

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Toulouse

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2

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5

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Brian Cain & Christian Day

3

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IN STORE OR BY PHONE!

Ursulines

IDO RD PE

MIMI EUBANKS

Esplanade

2

UN

ELIE BARNES

1

CANAL

CARONDELET

RIVERFRONT STREETCAR STOPS

New Orleans

FUNKY!

SPECI A L A DV ERT ISING SECT ION

7

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BURGUNDY

1200

ESPLANADE

1100

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1000

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900

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Madame John's Legacy

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700

PIRATE’S PERE ALLEY ANTOINE ALLEY

1

(no Mardi Gras beads)

85 French Market Pl., 1228 Decatur St., New Orleans, LA 70116

504.561.0046

Historic Algiers Point

sales@theartistsmarketnola.com

www.theartistsmarketnola.com

5

6

9

KILLER POBOYS Internationally Inspired, Chef Crafted, New Orleans Style Sandwiches

219 Dauphine (504) 462-2731 Wed - Mon | 10AM - 8PM

811 Conti @ Erin Rose Bar (504)252-6745 Wed - Mon | 10AM - Midnight

S. RAMPART

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Aquarium of the Americas Algiers 6 Ferry

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Insecterium

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Historic Algiers Point

WALKING TOUR

3

$5 Off your

Psychic Reading

READINGS or by Phone!

* not valid with other offers.

WiTh a New OrleANS WiTch!*

In-PERSON

Enjoy an ourour courtyard Enjoy an afternoon afternoondrink drinkon on courtyard Happy Hour 3-6 PM Daily in our Oyster Bar! Happy Hour 3-6 PM Daily in our Oyster Bar! Book your reservation on Open Table.

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510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

4

5

ORIGINAL KAYAKING TOURS OF NEW ORLEANS Just minutes away from the French Quarter! Tours offered daily, 7 days a week, year round!

ChrisTian Day & brian cain Voodoo CANDLES Herbs OcculT Dolls & INCENSE & Oils Books

1219 Decatur St. • Near French Market

504.613.0558 • HexWitch.com

join us fri - sun at 7pm for

TWO LOCATIONS Just Opened our newest location: 615 Canal St. 837 Canal Street (plus, full service nail salon)

210.843.8276

DECATUR

2

French Quarter

Woldenberg Riverfront Park

2

Ursuline Convent

MOONWALK

Natchez Steamboat Gray Line Tour Departures

Mississippi River

Gallier House

Madame John's Legacy

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Creole Queen

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Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop

Historic N.O. Collection

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New Orleans Centre

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URSULINES

SPECI A L A DV ERT ISING SECT ION

www.kayakitiyat.com 3494 Esplanade Ave., New Orleans, LA 70119, 512.964.9499

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holl sS t. W har f

The French Quarter is one of the nation’s oldest residential communities.

Please treat this historic neighborhood with respect.

6

8

9

FREE

GIFT*

7

WITH A $35 ROCK SHOP PURCHASE

Mention this WHERE ad for 15% off your purchase!

IN Canal Place

333 Canal Street, Suite 217 New Orleans, LA 70130

504.603.1600

125 BOURBON ST. | +1 504.529.5617

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Expires 12/31/19 * terms and conditions apply

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19-HRCSE-1546 WHERE MAGAZINE.indd 1 3/7/2019 11:16:33 AM

New Orleans Craft Cocktail Walking Tour

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steamboat

Last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River Three cruises a day from the French Quarter Dinner Jazz Cruise, Sunday Brunch & more Calliope Concerts & Engine Room Visits Inside and outside seating Live Jazz on all cruises 504-569-1401 • SteamboatNatchez.com

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BC B on Canal, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 K CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F3 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 1 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5 EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 2 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 3 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 4 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 5 MC Marriott at the Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NC New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 NO NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 St OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 ia n e Av OR vOmni e Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 Sp ch lin A Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 Ro FrankOO t S PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 6 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 RF Royal Frenchman, 400 Esplanade Ave., 619-9660 J4 7 Street Direction RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 French Quarter RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 Jazzy Passes SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 1 day - $3 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 3 day - $9 8 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 31 day - 55 WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 Ride RTA buses and streetcars as WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 much as you’d like.

WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 K WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

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French Market

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Riverfront Streetcar Line

Crescent Park

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Transit Routes

Hotel

Riverfront - $1.25 St. Charles - $1.25 Magazine - $1.25 Canal St - $1.25 Loyola - $1.25 Rampart - $1.25

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THE GUIDE

C St

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WHERE NEXT

NOVEMBER 2019

PARTING SHOT

In nature, everything has a job. The job of the fog is to beautify further the existing beauties!

– MEHMET MURAT ILDAN



©LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM

Misty Memories Japanese artist Fujiko Nakaya’s sculptural fog exhibit, one of two in the U.S., at the new Louisiana Children’s Museum (p. 43) in City Park.

3