Where Magazine New Orleans June 2019

T R AV E L E R S K N O W W H E R E ™

NEW ORLEANS JUN 2019

GET GOING!

HISTORY DATE

SPRING INTO SUMMER

Explore the South Market District

What’s new in the old French Quarter

Gay Pride events and walking tours

Four culinary cultural fests to devour

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Out and About

CONTENTS JUN

16

New Orleans wears its Pride on the outside.

A salute to the city’s colorful gay heritage.

2019

THE GUIDE Dining 28 Shopping 38 Attractions 45 Entertainment 49 Nightlife 51

Where Old Meets New

20

A peek inside the Historic New Orleans Collection’s new museum.

Summer Essentials

21

Chic sunglasses. Check.

Pool-perfect nail polish.

Check. Beachy keen totes—we’ve got your summer in the bag.

Salad Season

22 ON THE

COVER

One Block

A vintage tourism poster, part of the Historic New Orleans Collection’s new French Quarter exhibit. ©THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION, 1950.64.47

wheretraveler.com

6

Four seriously cool, summery salads that are sure to bowl you over.

24

What to see, do, eat and explore around the South Market District.

(FROM TOP) ©CHERYL GERBER; ©THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION; ©NATIVE POLISH; ©LORIN GAUDIN; ©CIVIC THEATRE

ESSENTIALS Editor’s Note 8 Ask the Expert 12 Calendar 14 Maps 59 Where Next 62 Parting Shot 64

S

chool’s out; time to play. You’re in the right place at the right time. Granted, New Orleans knows how to throw down whatever the season, but come summer, the city really cuts loose and goes with the flow.

Maybe it’s the heat that makes us shed our inhibitions—and often clothing—so easily, or maybe (to borrow from Lady Gaga) we were born this way. From its outset New Orleans has served as a beacon to wayward travelers, a welcoming place for the odd and eccentric, the off beat and exotic. You’ll experience that come-as-you-are/ all-are-welcome attitude during this month’s many festivals (p. 14) and various Pride events (16). Chat up the complete stranger next to you, and you’ll likely form a fast friendship. That’s just how we roll.

It’s that inherent warmth and hospitality that makes this city one of the nation’s coolest...no matter how high the mercury gets.

THE

EDITOR’S NOTE 2019

JUNE

DOUG BRANTLEY Editor, WhereTraveler New Orleans @whereneworleans

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W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

JU N E 2 0 1 9



EXPERT TIP: Wear cotton— and stay hydrated!

the inside. I also suggest an Airboat Adventures tour, and topping it off with a picnic along Lake Pontchartrain.

ter Boulevard is being reconfigured to feature a 7.5–acre, tree-lined pedestrian plaza.

Q: IF YOU WERE TO TAKE A NEW ORLEANS STAYCATION, WHAT WOULD TOP YOUR MUST-DO LIST? A: Taking an aerial tour.

There is one that leaves from Lakefront Airport, flies over the city, the Superdome, the swamps, takes you down to Houma and then comes back.

Q: WHERE WOULD YOU GUIDE GUESTS WITH KIDS IN TOW? A: There is so much to

do with children in New Orleans. I would suggest the Louisiana Children’s

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W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

SANDRA HAWKINS

There is so much to do with children in New Orleans.

CONCIERGE AT THE MARRIOTT CONVENTION CENTER

Museum, City Park’s Storyland amusement park and the Audubon Aquarium and Zoo. Q: SUGGEST A FEW FATHER’S DAY ACTIVITIES. A: There’s going to be a

second-line parade on Father’s Day (June 16), from 3 to 7 pm, beginning at 3626 St. Charles Avenue. Most people find out about second lines after the fact; that’s something you have to know from

Q: NAME THREE WAYS TO BEAT THE SUMMER HEAT. A: Take a ride on City

Sightseeing’s hop-on/ hop-off bus—sitting in the air-conditioned section, of course—tour the National WWII Museum and explore the shops along Magazine Street.

Q: SNOBALLS OR ICE CREAM, WHICH DO YOU PREFER? A: Snoballs. I had one

yesterday, my first this year. Hansen’s Sno-Blitz is the place I like. The nectar cream with condensed milk on top is my favorite.

JU N E 2 0 1 9

DOUG BRANTLE

Q: WHAT’S UP WITH ALL OF THE CONSTRUCTION IN FRONT OF YOUR HOTEL? A: Convention Cen-

W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M / N E W- O R L E A N S / L O C A L - E V E N T S

THE

CALENDAR

CREOLE TOMATO FEST JUNE 8-9

“KINKY BOOTS”

10 GREAT THINGS THIS MONTH New Orleans Oyster Festival June 1-2 Fill up on a bevy of bivalve dishes (oyster ceviche, bbq oyster po’boys) and free live music on the banks of

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W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

CREOLE TOMATO FEST

the Mississippi. www.nolaoysterfest.org D-Day Commemorations June 6 The National WWII Museum salutes the 75th anniversary of the Battle of Normandy with a full day of activities and events. www.national ww2museum.org Anderson .Paak June 8 Catch the recent Grammy winner at Champions Square. www.championssquare.com WineHoused: The Amy Celebration June 8 The late singer/songwriter’s

musical legacy lives on with this 10-piece tribute. www.thejoytheater.com “Kinky Boots” June 14-16 Drag queens and cross-dressers and foot fetishists—oh, my! See the Tony-winning musical at the Saenger Theatre. www.saengernola.com Fleur de Tease June 15 & 16 The popular burlesque troupe closes out another season at One Eyed Jacks. www.fleurdetease.com Twenty One Pilots June 19 The rocking duo lands at

the Smoothie King Center on their globetrotting Bandito tour. www.smoothie kingcenter.com Louisiana Cajun-Zydeco Festival June 22-23 Two-step it to Armstrong Park for this 13th annual free showcase of Cajun music and culture. www.jazzandheritage.org/ cajun-zydeco NOLA Caribbean Fest June 22-23 Celebrate the city’s Caribbean connection with island-flavored fare and music at Central City BBQ. www.nolacaribbean festival.com

JU N E 2 0 1 9

(LEFT) ©MATTHEW MURPHY; (RIGHT) ©ZACK SMITH/FRENCH MARKET

THE LINEUP

You can stuff them with shrimp or layer ’em with mozzarella and basil, fry them green and top with crab or stick ’em raw between mayo-slathered white bread.

However you slice it, you’ll find dozens of dishes ripe for the pickin’ at the Creole Tomato Festival. Held in and around the French Market, the two-day chow-down also features live music, cooking demos, eating contests and a Bloody Mary Market. www.frenchmarket.org



WHAT’S HAPPENING

NEW ORLEANS

WHERE NOW

W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

NOLA PRIDE PARADE

Out and About Take a walk on New Orleans’ gay side

Where Now

SOUTHERN DECADENCE



(TOP) ©DOUG BRANTLEY; (BOTTOM) ©KERRI MCCAFFETY/BRENNAN’S; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©CHERYL GERBER; (OPENING SPREAD) ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM

Where Now

A

s millions gather in Manhattan this month to commemorate WorldPride and the 50th anniversary of the Stonewall riots, a pivotal point in gay history, so too will members of the Crescent City LGBTQ community, as they have since the early 1970s.

The annual New Orleans Pride celebration takes place June 7-9, with a jam-packed roster of events.

The big to-do is a daylong block party at the Phoenix on Elysian Fields Avenue, which kicks off June 8 at noon, followed by a massive parade through the French Quarter beginning at 7:30 pm. (For a full lineup, visit www. togetherwenola.com.)

Pride isn’t the city’s only LGBTQ event, however. Labor Day weekend brings Southern Decadence, one of the largest gay gatherings in the South, which drew more than 250,000 revelers last summer. There’s Halloween New Orleans, a huge circuit party now in its 35th year, the Gay Easter Parade and, of course, Mardi Gras, where the over-the-top Bourbon Street Awards costume contest is a must-see no matter your sexual orientation.

Opening June 6 is Grand Illusions: The History and Artistry of Gay Carnival in New Orleans at the Presbytére in Jackson Square. The exhibit, the Louisiana State Museum’s first-ever in-depth examination of

NOLA DRAG TOURS

gay Carnival, features more than 100 items, from creative costumes to rarely seen photos of flamboyant tableau balls from the 1950s.

“People in New Orleans are different from other places,” notes tour guide Glenn DeVilliers. “People say we’re liberal or tolerant and things like that.

But really and truly, we don’t care. I don’t think I’ve ever known anyone from New Orleans who I would swear on a stack of Bibles was straight; there’s a lot of gray area here.”

DeVilliers is sitting at the bar of the storied New Orleans Athletic Club, where Tennessee Williams was a regular, swimsuits were long verboten and he’s been a member since high school. “There have been gay people here from the very beginning,” he says. “At the time of the Stonewall riots there were 15 gay bars in New Orleans.”

Each Saturday DeVilliers sets off on The Twirl: A Gay Heritage and Drinks Tour (www.glfdevilliers.com), which revisits the French Quarter haunts of Williams, Truman Capote, “Miss Dixie” Fasnacht and other key players in the city’s homosexual history, making multiple cocktail stops along the way. “Queens like to drink,” he quips, “but we don’t go to the gay bars; if you do, you lose them.”

Instead, DeVilliers starts with a Sazerac at Antoine’s then hits Brennan’s for a Caribbean Milk Punch,

before moving on to the Carousel Bar, where Liberace once tickled the ivories. “There’s a gay-history connection to all of these things,” he explains, “though the milk punch might be the biggest stretch: The rum they use is Mount Gay.” Think tours are a drag? Give NOLA Drag Tours a try. The two-hour excursions (www.noladragtours.com) are led by Quinn Laroux, a “draguate” of the New Orleans Drag Workshop, who begins at Congo Square with a discussion on slavery and gender identity. “That’s probably the most difficult topic we talk about,” Laroux says en route to Storyville, a former red-light district. “Everything else gets raunchier from here.”

Outfitted in gold lame, fishnets and sensible sneakers, Laroux guides groups down side streets and through Jackson Square, ending at a cluster of clubs. “This circle is called the Fruit Loop; it’s where the gay bars are.

“You’ve probably seen all of the rainbow flags flying during the tour,” Laroux adds in summation. “This is a city where gay life is very public and celebrated. Queer people have always been part of here—as well as every other city in the country—to the point that now we have a drag queen leading tours of the Quarter… and it’s fine!”

BRENNAN’S, A STOP ON THE TWIRL TOUR

19

NEW ORLEANS

“Head upstairs to the French Quarter Galleries, which chart the area’s evolution.”

The old Vieux Carré welcomed a spanking new museum in April, with the long-awaited arrival of the Historic New Orleans Collection’s state-of-the-art campus at 520 Royal Street. The $38-million facility adds more than 35,000 square feet to the HNOC’s French Quarter footprint and breathes fresh life into the circa-1816 Seignouret-Brulatour building.

G

rab a free ticket in the welcome center, where an interactive map puts three centuries of local architecture at your fingertips, then head upstairs to the French Quarter Galleries, which chart the area’s evolution through a variety of groupings.

Among the highlights is a copy of the 1727 Code Noir, a miniature of Clark Mills’ sculpture of Andrew Jackson on horseback, a chess set owned by 19th-century child prodigy Paul Morphy, a 1950 panel cover from the Desire streetcar and an annotated script from Tennessee Williams’ “A Streetcar Named Desire.”

The permanent display leads to a rotating exhibit space, which currently features “Art of the City: Postmodern to Post-Katrina,” an overview of contemporary Crescent City artists. Standouts include Gina Phillps’ stitched portrait of Fats Domino, Hannah Chalew’s three-dimensional street scene and Jason Poirier’s eerily lifelike mannequin of the late Ernie K-Doe. Good thing there’s a courtyard café;

SEIGNOURET-BRULATOUR BUILDING

you’ll want to refuel before crossing the street to explore the HNOC’s equally free Louisiana History Galleries. www.hnoc.org

EDUCATION GALLERIES

“ART OF THE CITY”

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©(TOP) ©MELISSA CARRIER; (CENTER) ©ELI HADDOW; (BOTTOM) ©HNOC

W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

Where Old Meets New



WHERE NOW

JU N E 2 0 1 9

SUMMER ESSENTIALS S

o much to do to get beach ready!

Shed that winter coat (read: defuzz), get a good mani/pedi (with or without polish), grab some chic sunglasses, a head covering, a cool drink, a sand-worthy cup, a little bling—and do not forget the sunscreen. Put it all in a big bag, and you’re ready for a Gulf Coast day trip or an afternoon poolside. Want to add some local flare to that? We’ve got you.

By Lorin Gaudin

CARRY ON

Grab some at Bluemercury on Magazine Street. www. bluemercury.com

LOOK CUTE

PROTECT

Keep hair back or covered with a food-centric bandana from Yat Cat Print Co., polish hands/toes with brights or nudes from Native, and rock a “You are My Sunshine” necklace from Mimosa Handcrafted. www.yatcatnola.com; www.nativenailpolish.com; www.mimosahandcrafted. com

Throw chic shade wearing Krewe sunglasses, save face with Earthsavers’ tinted sunscreen, and don’t swat the small stuff with natural bug spray from Cake Face Soaping. www.krewe. com; www.eathsaversonline.com; www.cakeface soaping.com

SHADOW AND LIGHT Though it seems counterintuitive, it’s cool to wear eyeshadow at the beach or by the pool. Slap on one of Supergoop’s newest SPF-laced cream shadows to protect sensitive lids.

DRINK IT IN Grab a gallon of your favorite frozen concoction from New Orleans Original Daiquiris (adults only), and keep that beverage sandside in a NOLA Couture fleur-de-lis Beach Spike cup. www.fattuesday.com; www.nolacouture.com



(CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) ©KREWE, ©TCHOUP INDUSTRIES; ©NOLA COUTURE; ©NATIVE

Shove a lot or a little in Tchoup Industries’ sturdy, beach-ready dopp kits, totes

and bike bags, all made of sailcloth. www.tchoupindustries.com

(CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) ©KREWE, TCHOUP INDUSTRIES, NOLA COUTURE AND NATIVE POLISH

21

Where Now

Salad Season No shame in my game, I eat a lot of salad. When I’m not eating or recreating the Commander’s Salad (sort of Caesar/Cobb at Commander’s Palace), I’m stabbing bowls of leafy, meaty, shaved-vegetable tosses from scads of other local restaurants. The following four are on my current regular rotation…but there’s always the opportunity to turn over a new leaf.

By Lorin Gaudin

WARBUCKS On the bottom of the bowl of the Warbucks Seafood Salad is a thick stripe of creamy Goddess dressing. Atop is soft, butter lettuce leaves, boiled shrimp, lump crab and—the kicker—chunks of tempura-battered avocado. www.warbucksnola.com

HOUSTON’S

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: R&O’S SIMPLE—AND SIMPLY DELICIOUS—SHRIMP SALAD; MEXICO MEETS THE MISSISSIPPI IN DEL FEUGO’S CEVICHE SALAD; HOUSTON’S SUMMERY SHRIMP LOUIE IS ON THE MENU YEAR-ROUND; WARBUCK’S REFRESHING CRAB-AND-SHRIMP SALAD WITH FRIED AVOCADO (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) ©LORIN GAUDIN; LORIN GAUDIN; ©HOUSTON’S; ©LORIN GAUDIN

Shrimp Louie is a sizeable wedge of iceberg, over which is draped jumbo Gulf shrimp, avocado wedges, a creamy house Thousand Island and a shower of fresh tarragon. www.houstons.com

R&O This old-school New Orleans restaurant is known for its massive Italian Tossed Salad, but the sleeper is the Shrimp Salad— iceberg lettuce, diced onions, celery and bell pepper with a half-dozen spicy, boiled shrimp tossed in a light, creamy Italian dressing. www.r-opizza.com

DEL FUEGO TAQUERIA The Ceviche Caesar is handsdown one of the city’s best salads. Bite-size romaine, tossed in a hybrid Caesar/Goddess dressing, is topped with a hefty serving of citrusy shrimp, fish and diced veg ceviche, followed by a liberal shake of cotija cheese and fried tortilla strips. www.delfuegotaqueria.com

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JU N E 2 0 1 9

brunch

you had me@

breakfast burrito -tamale con huevos-pupusa benny breakfast burrito -tamale con huevos-pupusa benny cheat day churros steak & eggshuevos rancheros cheat day churros steak & eggshuevos rancheros rum french toast drink specials mangosamimosa rum french toast drink specials mangosamimosa bloody bloody mary mary -- live live music music -- patio patio dining dining -- margaritas margaritas

every sunday 10:30am 3:oopm every sunday 10:30am - 3:oopm 437 Esplanade Ave - nolacantina.com 437 Esplanade Ave - nolacantina.com

F O R M O R E T H I N G S T O D O I N S O U T H M A R K E T D I S T R I C T, V I S I T W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

ONE BLOCK FIND THE BEST IN

SOUTH MARKET DISTRICT

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: THE PARAMOUNT AT OTRA VEZ STONEFREE, AND CIVIC THEATRE

SEE

EAT

SHOP

PLAY

What was once a parking lot wasteland is now a vibrant neighborhood of luxe living spaces. Check out Maypop’s innovative Mekong-meets-Mississippi mural and the Superdome’s nightly lightshows.

American, Italian, Vietnamese; you’ll discover a world of dining options around the South Market District. Mexican meets Indian cuisine at celebrated chef Akhtar Nawab’s new Otra Vez. Vegans get their fill at The Daily Beet, while Company Burger caters to carnivores.

Chic women’s wear is the get at Lukka and Stonefree.

Foodies will find what they’re after at Rouses supermarket and Simplee Gourmet, a kitchen boutique that also conducts cooking classes.

The free South Market Live music series takes place June 1, coinciding with the monthly art stroll along gallery-packed Julia Street.

The Civic Theatre, dating to vaudeville days, hosts top national touring acts.

 Otra Vez

 Stonefree

1001 Julia St., 504.354.8194, www.otraveznola.com

611 O’Keefe St., 504.304.5485, www.shopstonefree.com

 The Daily Beet

 Rouses

 First Saturday Art Walk

1000 Girod St., 504.605.4413, www.thedailybeetnola.com

701 Baronne St., 504.227.3838, www.rouses.com

Julia Street, www.artsdistrict neworleans.com

 Company Burger

 Simplee Gourmet

 Civic Theatre

611 O’Keefe St., 504.309.9422, www.thecompanyburger.com

1000 Girod St., 504.962.9162, www.simpleegourmet.com

510 O’Keefe St., 504.272.0865, www.civicnola.com

 South Market District Bound by S. Rampart and Baronne streets between Lafayette and Julia, www.southmarketdistrict.com

 Maypop 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345, www.maypoprestaurant.com

 Mercedes-Benz Superdome 1500 Poydras St., www.mbsuperdome.com

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W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

 Lukka 711 O’Keefe St., 504.218.7113, www.shoplukka.com

 South Market Live The Beacon at South Market Plaza, 1000 Girod St., www. facebook.com/southmarketnola

JU N E 2 0 1 9

 (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) ©ROMNEY CARUSO; ©LIZ CLAYMAN/OTRA VEZ; ©ROMNEY CARUSO; ©CIVIC THEATRE

SOUTH MARKET,

THE

GUIDE OUR

SUNDAE BEST

The All Things NOLA sundae at Sucré (p. 34) tops brown butter-pecan gelato and bread pudding pieces with bananas Foster sauce, whipped cream and candied pecans.

FAVORITES

LOOK FOR our featured advertisers throughout the Guide.



©SUCRÉ

DINING Central Business/ Warehouse District THE AMERICAN SECTOR American A nostalgic homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as Victory Garden salads and Frito pie. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6; www.ww2eats.com AUCTION HOUSE MARKET Eclectic This bright, modern food hall offers a variety of vendors and flavors, from fresh local seafood to Indian, Egyptian and Hawaiianinspired cuisines. B, L, D (daily).

801 Magazine St., 504.372.4321.

Map 3, C6; www.auctionhousemarket.com

D IN IN G

BRIQUETTE Seafood Contemporary coastal is the catch at this sprawling space. Follow the caramalized sea scallops with lump crab bisque, then dive into Louisiana redfish with crawfish relish.

D (nightly). 701 S. Peters St., 504.302.7496. Map 3, C6; www.briquette-nola.com CAFÉ CARMO International This island-inspired space pops out some wild—and wildly delicious— dishes, such as the zany Rico sandwich (a grilled plantain patty topped with pulled pork) and shrimp-filled, black-eyed pea fritters. Veggie and vegan options are also featured. B, L (M-Sa), D (Tu-Sa).

527 Julia St., 504.875.4132.

Map 3, C6; www.cafecarmo.com CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks Forget the standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats.

D (nightly). 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5; www.chophousenola.com COCHON Louisiana Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald

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W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. L, D (daily).

930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; www.cochonrestaurant.com COMPANY BURGER American Adam Biderman’s award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320.

Map 1, D3; www.thecompany burger.com COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean A native of St. Lucia, chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes with pineapple tartar sauce and curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi. L, (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6; www.comperelapin.com COPPER VINE American Along with 30 varietals on tap and an additional 20 by the glass, this easygoing “wine pub” serves up caviar-topped oysters, a wide variety of flatbreads and heartier fare, such as skirt steak with duck fat fries. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1001 Poydras St., 504.208.9535. Map 3, C4. www.coppervinewine.com COUVANT French A slick, contemporary French bistro inside the Eliza Jane hotel. Standouts include English peas with duck egg and lardons, hanger steak Bordelaise and moules frites.

B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). 315 Magazine St., 504.324.5400.

Map 3, D5; www.couvant.com THE DAILY BEET Vegetarian Light, healthy eats and cold-pressed juices are the draw at this industrial-chic café. Tuck into a shaved Brussels sprouts salad or an Orbit Bowl of warm wild rice, avocado, runny egg, kimchi and pickled veg. B, L, D (daily).

1000 Girod St., 504.605.4413.

Map 3, B4; www.thedailybeet nola.com

DOMENICA Italian Out-of-the-norm antipasta (roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as lasagne Bolonese. Mangia, mangia!

L, D (daily). 123 Baronne St., 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3; www. domenica restaurant.com EMERIL’S Louisiana Emeril Lagasse’s flagship sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum and more. L (M-F), D (nightly). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; www.emerils.com GIANNA Italian James Beard Awardwinning chef Rebecca Wilcomb pays tribute to her grandmother with homey fare, such as creamy polenta with lamb-sausage gravy, tortellini in bordo and veal saltimbocca.

700 Magazine St, 504.399.0816.

Map 3, C6; www.gianna restaurant.com HERBSAINT French One of the city’s premier fine dining spots. The award-winning menu changes fequently, with entrées such as confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114.

Map 3, C5; www.herbsaint.com

Br (Sa-Su). 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5; www.josephineestelle.com MAYPOP Vietnamese Asian-fusion food in a bright, open space. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345.Map 3, B4 ; www.maypop restaurant.com MERIL International Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef ’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. L, D (daily).

424 Girod St., 504.526.3745.

Map 3, C6; www.emerils.com OTRA VEZ Mexican Modern Mexican is the focus at this Southern offshoot of Brooklyn’s Alta Calidad. Yuca tater tots, fried tempura shrimp tacos, crawfish chile rellenos—si! D (nightly).

1001 Julia St., 504.354.8194.

Map 3, B4; www.otraveznola.com PÊCHE Seafood The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better.

From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong.

L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; www.pecherestaurant.com

JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican Squash blossom tacos, pig ear chilaquiles, octopus toastadas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare.

Celebrity chef Aarón Sánchez’s hot spot puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. L, D (daily). 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4; www.johnnysanchez restaurant.com

RED GRAVY Italian This cozy brunch bistro offers traditional Italian dishes and not-so-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Open W-M. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5; www. redgravy cafe.com

JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian At this casual Ace Hotel eatery snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy, and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. B (M-F); L, D (daily);

RESTAURANT AUGUST French Fine dining at its finest.

The surroundings are elegant, and the food is spectacular, combining European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. L (MF), D (nightly); Su brunch. 301

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Dining

Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777.

Map 3, E5; www.restaurant august.com REVELATOR Coffee Sleek, chic and perfect for the coffee (or tea) geek. The baristas here are friendly educators who share their passion for impeccably sourced beans roasted to spec with focus on flavor nuance. B, L (daily). 637 Tchoupitoulas St., 205.224.5900.

Map 3, C6; www.revelator coffee.com RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE Steaks Founded in 1965, this Crescent City classic, famed for its superb, sizzling steaks and seafood, now has locations around the world. L, D (daily).

525 Fulton St., 504.587.7099.

Map 3, D6; www.ruthschris.com

ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY Deli The St. James is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-the-line delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. L (MSa), D (Th-Sa); Br (Su). 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485.

Map 3, C6; 5004 Prytania St., 504.899.4737. Map 1, D4; www. stjamescheese.com TSUNAMI Sushi At this sprawling sushi emporium the usual sushi suspects sit menu-side with funky items like calamari “fries.” Big appetites will want to hit the Sumo Ribeye. L, D (M-Sa). 601 Poydras St., 504.608.3474.

Map 3, C5; www.serving sushi.com WILLA JEAN BAKERY Contemporary Pastry chef Kelly Fields, known for her beautiful baked goods, shows

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SEAWORTHY Seafood This offshoot of New York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, East and West coasts and other sustainably sourced seafood.

D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071.

Map 3, C5; www.seaworthy nola.com

off her savory side as well in dishes such as braised lamb pasta with mint pesto. B, L (MF); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334.

Map 3, B4; www.willajean.com

Central City CENTRAL CITY BBQ Barbecue Stellar barbecue and kicked-up sides make this sprawling smokehouse a popular destination. L, D (daily). 1201 S. Rampart St., 504.558.4276. Map 1, D3; www.centralcitybbq.com MAÎS AREPAS Latin An upscale CreoleColombian restaurant that puts overstuffed, filled corn pockets (arepas) front and center. L (TuSa), D (Tu-Su). 1200 Carondelet St., 504.523.6247. Map 3, A5

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TOUPS SOUTH Southern Chef Isaac Toups creates museum-quality cuisine at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery. Biscuits with crab fat butter, goat tamales and fried black-eyed pea salad offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. L, D (M, W-Sa); Br (Su).

1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3; www.toupssouth.com

French Quarter ANTOINE’S Creole Established in 1840, Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure with rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4; www.antoines.com ARNAUD’S Creole In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of the many famous dishes. D (daily); jazz brunch (Su).

813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433.

Map 3, F4; www.arnauds.com

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Contemporary Coastal Cuisine 701 S. Peters St. 504-302-7496 www.briquette-nola.com Now Serving Lunch

BAYONA American Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3; www.bayona.com BENNACHIN International “A taste of Africa” in the heart of the French Quarter. A wide selection of vegetarian items complements beef, lamb, poultry and seafood dishes. BYOB. L, D (daily).

1212 Royal St., 504.522.1230.

Map 3, I4 BOURBON HOUSE Seafood A standout addition to Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes share menu space with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp.

B, L, D (daily). 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4; www.bourbonhouse.com BRENNAN’S Creole Under the helm of executive chef Slade Rushing, this legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine.

B, L, D (daily). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4; www.brennansneworleans.com

Enjoy an afternoon drink on our courtyard 510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

BROUSSARD’S Creole Broussard’s, established in 1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots, with one of the most elegant courtyards in the Quarter. The kitchen turns out long-popular classics, such as turtle soup and

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THE GUIDE

Book reservations through Open Table.

Dining

BACKSPACE BAR & KITCHEN American This comfy spot pays homage to the French Quarter’s rich literary legacy. The bar serves drinks fashioned after famed authors’ faves, while the kitchen offers gumbo and sandwiches. L, D (daily). 139 Chartres St., 504.322.2245.

Map 3, F4; www.backspace nola.com

bronzed redfish with lump crab and mirliton slaw. D (nightly); jazz Br (F-Su). 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4; www.broussards.com CAFÉ AMELIE Louisiana The perfect spot for a leisurely outdoor lunch or romantic dinner. Try the satsuma and pepper-glazed shrimp or a seasonal cocktail. L, D (WSu); Br (Sa-Su). 912 Royal St., 504.412.8965. Map 3, H4; www.cafeamelie.com CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun classics.

B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530.

Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554. Map 3, G5; www.cafebeignet.com

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CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a must-do.

On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. Open 24h (daily). 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; www. cafedumonde.com CANE & TABLE Cuban This rum-centric restaurant provides a taste of the city’s Caribbean connection.

Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5; www.caneandtablenola.com CENTRAL GROCERY Deli This Italian deli-grocery is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. L (daily). 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5; www.centralgrocery.com CLOVER GRILL American The prospect of big juicy burgers, overstuffed omelets and a cheeky version of retro 1950s ambiance draws all walks of life to this Bourbon Street institution at all hours.

The theatrics on both sides of

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the counter are often worthy of a Fellini film. Open 24 hours.

900 Bourbon St., 504.598.1010.

Map 3, H4; www.clovergrill.com COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu of Creole and Cajun cuisine. Br, D (daily). 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4; www.courtoftwosisters.com CROISSANT D’OR PATISSERIE Bakery This venerable pastry shop produces a stunning array of buttery croissants, fresh fruit danishes and any number of dreamy creations devised from storehouses of chocolate, cream and magic. Savory dishes are also available, along with a variety of coffees. B, L (W-M).

617 Ursuline Ave., 504.524.4663.

Map 3, H4 CURIO American Curious what “American cuisine with Creole soul” tastes like? Think grit tots with roasted red pepper coulis, black-eyed pea-and-duck gumbo and “pastrami shrimp” Reubens. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 301 Royal St., 504.717.4198. Map 3, F4; www.curionola.com DEANIE’S Seafood For years locals have driven to the lakefront Deanie’s for groaning boards of freshly fried seafood and grilled fish. Its French Quarter location offers the same great menu in posher surroundings. L, D (daily).

841 Iberville St., 504.581.1316.

Map 3, E4; L, D (Tu-Su) 1713 Lake Ave., Metairie, 504.831.4141.

Map 1, C2; www.deanies.com DIAN XIN Chinese Dim sum craving?

Satisfy it here. Steamed pork dumplings, crab-and-crawfish bao, salt-and-pepper squid; the menu goes on and on. L (Su), D (Tu-Su). 504.266.2828. Map 3, I4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks An upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime

beef with luscious sauces—try the barbecued rib-eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters.

D (nightly). 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4; www. dickiebrennanssteak house.com DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks A stunning steakhouse and butcher shop with superior quality dry-aged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. L (F), D (nightly). 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4; www.dorismetropolitan.com FRENCH TOAST Breakfast Breakfast is the focus of this popular French Quarter spot. There are sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta). B, L (daily).

1035 Decatur St., 504.300.5518.

Map 3, H5; www.toastneworleans.com FRENCH TRUCK COFFEE Coffee Named for the vintage Citroën vehicles it uses for deliveries to local restaurants and grocers, French Truck established a loyal following as the city’s first micro-roaster. Fine coffees and killer cold brews dominate at its cool cafés.

Open daily. 221 Chartres St., 504.298.1115. Map 3, F4; 1200 Magazine St., 504.298.1115.

Map 3, A7; www.frenchtruckcoffee.com GALATOIRE’S Creole Since 1905, Galatoire’s has been a gravity center of New Orleans. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. L, D (Tu-Su).

209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021.

Map 3, E4; www.galatoires.com GREEN GODDESS Eclectic Chef Paul Artigues creates adventurous dishes in the tiny kitchen of this intimate gem. Possibly the only place in town you’ll find beet hummus and truffle grits sharing menu space with wild-boar meatloaf and bacon sundaes. L, D (W-Su). 307 Exchange Place,

504.301.3347. Map 3, E4; www. greengoddessrestaurant.com GW FINS Seafood Chef Tenney Flynn has taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared.

D (nightly). 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4; www.gwfins.com HARD ROCK CAFÉ American This popular chain, filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings.

L, D (daily). 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4; www.hardrockcafe.com IRENE’S CUISINE Italian Irene’s is all about garlic, olive oil and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. Think of the long wait (no reservations) as part of the charm. D (M-Sa).

529 Bienville St., 504.529.8811.

Map 3, F5; www.irenesnola.com ITALIAN BARREL Italian The focus here is on fine, Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso buco-topped polenta and top-notch tiramisu.

L, D (daily). 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5; www.theitalianbarrel.com JEWEL OF THE SOUTH Contemporary This aptly named gem takes its cue from a 19th-century restaurant of the same name, with retro cocktails (brandy crustas, Roffigacs) and an ever-changing, seasonal menu of late-night bites. D (nightly). 1026 St. Louis St., 504.265.8816. Map 3, F3; www.jewelnola.com JUSTINE French Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is both classic and contemporary in design, but the menu is fullon French: steak tartar, tuna

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Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

KILLER POBOYS Contemporary This tiny holein-the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw. B, L, D (W-M).

219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731.

Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745.Map 3, F4; www.killerpoboys.com KRYSTAL American Since 1932 Krystal has been satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers. 24h (daily). 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4; www. krystal.com LATITUDE 29 Eclectic World-renowned tiki guru Jeff “Beachbum” Berry’s seriously cool, new-school tiki bar and restaurant recalls the spirit of Trader Vic’s. Classic tiki cocktails and original concoctions are paired with “PolynAsian” fare, such as sticky ribs. L (F-Sa), D (daily).

321 N. Peters St., 504.609.3811.

Map 3, F5; www.latitude29 nola.com LONGWAY TAVERN Eclectic A proper gastropub with a comfy chic interior, solid familiar cocktails and smart, sexy food. The pork belly home fries, fried calamari and hefty steak sandwiches will make you linger. L (F-Su), D (nightly).

719 Toulouse St., 504.962.9696.

Map 3, G4; www.longway tavern.com MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant,

NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas.

L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; www.napoleonhouse.com NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, char-grilled oysters and a raw bar. L, D (daily).

510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632.

Map 3, G5 ; www.neworleans creolecookery.com NINE ROSES CAFÉ Vietnamese The Westbank Vietnamese food haven now offers a smaller French Quarter location serving such signature dishes as pho, banh mi sandwiches, rice plates, noodle bowls and springrolls. L, D (MSa). 620 Conti St., 504.324.9450.

Map 3, F4 NOLA American Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter bistro’s small plates-focused menu is perfect for table-sampling its 40-plus dishes. Standouts include the hot frog legs, stuffed chicken wings and oyster-and-brie pot pie. L, D (daily). 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652.

Map 3, F5; www.emerils.com OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana At former Saint Deuce McAllister’s eatery, diners score New Orleans classics (such as soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle.

B, L, D (daily). 132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4; www.olesaint.com

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THE GUIDE

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

K-PAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana Chef-personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience.

His restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, such as bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders.

D (M-Sa). 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530.Map 3, F4; www.kpauls.com

famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Musttries include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce. L (M-Sa), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Su).

201 Royal St., 504.523.2078.

Map 3, E4; www.mrbsbistro.com

Dining

Niçoise salad, moules frites. L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su).

225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533.

Map 3, E4; www.justinenola.com

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PALACE CAFÉ Creole Part of the Brennan restaurant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake and andouille-crusted Gulf fish.

B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4; www.palacecafe.com

SOBOU Contemporary The focus at this “south of Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and an amazing selection of Louisiana street food-inspired small plates. B (daily), L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4; www.sobounola.com

PELICAN CLUB Louisiana Chef-owner Richard Hughes blends indigenous ingredients with international flavors. The seared tuna with Gulf shrimp is excellent, as is the roasted baby lamb rack. Try the seafood martini appetizer.

D (daily). 312 Exchange Alley, 504.523.1504. Map 3, E4; www. pelican club.com

STANLEY Eclectic Retro soda fountain ambiance meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the eggs Benedict po’ boy, while Reuben sandwiches, burgers and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings.

B, L, D (daily). 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4; www.stanleyrestaurant.com

PORT OF CALL American Some say this bustling neighborhood joint has the best hamburger in the city; others go strictly for the oversize, overstuffed baked potatoes... and the signature cocktail, the Neptune’s Monsoon. L, D (daily). 838 Esplanade Ave., 504.523.0120. Map 3, I3; www. portofcallneworleans.com

SYLVAIN Contemporary Elegant chandeliers dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub just off Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as Chick Syl-vain sandwiches and pasta Bolognese.

D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. www.sylvainnola.com Map 3, G4

RED FISH GRILL Seafood Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, double-chocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. L, D (daily). 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200.

Map 3, E4; www.redfishgrill.com RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana Chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. L (F), D (nightly); Br (Su). 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4; www.revolutionnola.com

TABLEAU Creole Housed in historic Le Petit Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes. L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (daily).

616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463.

Map 3, G4; www.tableaufrench quarter.com TUJAGUE’S Creole Open since 1856, Tujague’s (“two-jacks”) ranks as one of the city’s oldest eateries. The restaurant serves a traditional Creole prix fixe menu (shrimp remoulade and beef brisket to start, followed by a choice of entrée and pecan pie), along with contemporary a la carte offerings. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 823 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, H5; www.tujaguesrestaurant.com

Garden District/ Lower Garden District ATCHAFALAYA Creole Look for the giant castiron skillet outside of this upscale neighborhood eatery and menu standouts such as Beets in a Cloud and turtle-and-alligator gumbo. D (nightly); Br (Th-M). 901 Louisiana Ave., 504.891.9626. Map 1, D4; www. atchafalaya restaurant.com COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole This beloved turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers. Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere.

L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; www.commanderspalace.com COQUETTE French What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have fried chicken. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4; www.coquettenola.com DISTRICT Coffee Donuts. Sliders. Brew.

That’s the way District bills itself, and that’s exactly what you’ll find at this kicked-up coffee shop: craft-style donuts with rotating flavors, savory sliders and nitro-brewed coffee on tap. B, L, D (daily). 2209 Magazine St., 504.570.6945.

Map 1, D4; www.donutsand sliders.com EMERIL’S DELMONICO Creole Located on the St. Charles streetcar line, this elegant circa-1895 restaurant now serves chef Emeril Lagasse’s modern takes on Creole classics. D (nightly). 1300 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.4937.

Map 1, D3; www.emerils.com GRIS-GRIS Louisiana Chef Eric Cook (American Sector, Commander’s Palace) finally

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has a place of his own, where he whips up elevated New Orleans standards, such as oyster-and-caviar po’ boys and seafood-stuffed crab. L, D (daily). 1800 Magazine St., 504.272.0241. Map 3, D4; www.grisgrisnola.com JACK ROSE Contemporary This bold, contemporary space turns out playful versions of familiar foods.

Think squid-ink pasta with shrimp in a cayenne-kicked barbecue sauce. Cool cocktails; gorgeous desserts. L (F), D (WSu); Br (Su). 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D4; www.jackroserestaurant.com MOLLY’S RISE & SHINE Breakfast The sandwich gurus behind Turkey and the Wolf also operate this equally funky breakfast spot. Collard greens and grits, sweet potato burritos, deviled egg tostadas—expect the unexpected. B (W-M). 2368 Magazine St., 504.302.1896.

Map 1, D4; www.mollysriseandshine.com SUCRÉ Dessert This chic spot is worth a visit for the décor alone. But while you’re there, might as well try some of the elegant chocolates, house-made gelato and must-have macarons.

Open daily. 3025 Magazine St., 504.520.8311. Map 1, D4; 622 Conti St., 504.267.7098.

Map 3, F4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.834.2299.

Map 1, C2; www.shopsucre.com TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, chicken fried steak. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. L (W-M).

739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428.

Map 1, D4; www.turkeyandthe wolf.com WARBUCKS Contemporary Fine-dining chef Todd Pulsinelli shows off his casual side, playfully riffing on classics: crab-fat coleslaw, oxtail-stuffed tatar tots, shortrib hand pies, muffuletta franks and more deliciously fun fare.

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Dining

L, D (daily). 3218 Magazine St., 504.309.5260. Map 1, D4; www.warbucksnola.com

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a restaurant. Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L, D (daily).

600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111.

Map 1, E3; www.bacchanal wine.com BYWATER AMERICAN BISTRO American The menu at this casual neighborhood spot focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. Farro risotto with mushrooms and minted breadcrumbs, fried oysters with oyster gravy; try the rabbit curry. D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su).

2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827.

Map 1, E3; www.bywater americanbistro.com

Wild-caught oysters and fresh seafood fare.

Ace Hotel New Orleans 630 Carondelet St @seaworthynola

DAT DOG American Here, the ho-hum hot dog stand gets glammed up with imported wieners and sausages tucked into sweet sourdough rolls. Toppings range from standard to sublime. Great beer selection. L, D (daily). 601 Frenchmen St., 504.309.3362.

Map 3, J5; 3336 Magazine St., 504.868.4391. Map 1, D4; 5030 Freret St., 504.899.6883.

Map 1, D3; www.datdognola.com ELIZABETH’S American “Real food done real good” is the motto at this homey neighborhood spot, which draws loyal locals as well as national foodies. Two words to remember: praline bacon. B, L (M-F), D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su).

601 Gallier St., 504.944.9272.

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THE GUIDE

Fair winds and following seas.

THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana Known for its swimming pool, this Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crabmeat beignets, clams and chorizo), salads or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; www. thecountryclubneworleans.com

Map 1, E3; www.elizabeths restaurantnola.com ELYSIAN BAR Eclectic Tucked inside the Peter and Paul Hotel, this sunny yellow dining room feels all warm and cozy, like a relative’s kitchen The menu follows suit, with homey fare such as whipped ricotta with preserved mushrooms on flatbread or chicken confit with white beans and roasted apples. L, D (daily). 2317 Burgundy St., 504.356.6768. www.theelysian bar.com THE FRANKLIN Contemporary This handsome, art-filled space serves a mean martini and clever spins on long-popular dishes, such as beef tartar with Vietnamese pho garnishes. D (M-Sa). 2600 Dauphine St., 504.267.0640.

Map 1, E3; www.thefranklinnola.com

D IN IN G

THE JOINT Barbecue This funky Bywater fave is slim on frills but big on slow-cooked barbecue (pulled pork, beef brisket, juicy ribs) and generous sides. L, D (M-Sa).

701 Mazant St., 504.949.3232.

Map 1, E3; www.alwayssmokin.com NOLA CANTINA Mexican Tacos, tacos and more tacos, filled with everything from fried oysters to cauliflower. Other highlights include Ecuadorian-style shrimp ceviche and top-shelf margaritas.

D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 437 Esplanade Ave., 504.266.2848.

Map 3, J5; www.nolacantina.com PALADAR 511 Contemporary California cooking New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5; www.paladar511.com PIZZA DELICIOUS Italian This pop-up pizzeria grew so popular that it now has its own brick-and-mortar space. New York-style pies with an ever-changing array of market-fresh toppings are offered

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whole or by the slice. L, D (TuSu). 617 Piety St., 504.676.8482.

Map 1, E3; www.pizzadelicious.com SEED Vegetarian Specializing in locally sourced, organic fare, Seed mixes and matches natural ingredients to create mangoand-kale salads, fried eggplant po’boys, vegetable spaghetti and more. B, L, D (daily). 2372 St. Claude Ave., 504.302.2599.

Map 1, E3; 1330 Prytania St., 504.302.2599. Map 1, D4; www. seedyourhealth.com ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic Dating to 1875, this long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character and 24 steel columns.

The stunning space features 11 food vendors, along with a bar. L, D (daily). 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813.Map 1, E3; www.strochmarket.com

Mid-City ANGELO BROCATO’S Bakery This century-old ice cream parlor and confectionery offers a nostalgic slice of Old World Sicily, with some of the best Italian pastries and ice creams this side of Palermo. Open Tu-Su. 214 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.486.0078. Map 1, D2 ; www. angelobrocatoicecream.com

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BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts.

If the barbecued pork egg rolls make a menu appearance, get them. L, D, (Tu-Su). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583.

Map 1, D3; www.blueoakbbq.com BROWN BUTTER SOUTHERN KITCHEN & BAR Southern This tucked-away gem serves up creative eats with Bible Belt roots. Evidence: Braised short ribs with grits and boiled peanut salad. L (M-F), D (M-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 231 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.609.3871.

Map 1, D2; www.brownbutterrestaurant.com

F E AT U RE D ART I ST: J OAN S L I F KA

ESTATE & CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELRY NEW ORLEANS & VINTAGE CHARMS 534 Royal St. • (504) 522-1305 www.lapetitfleur.com

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Dining

DOOKY CHASE Creole One of the oldest African-American restaurants in the nation. Chef Leah Chase, “the Queen of Creole Cuisine,” has built a large and loyal following with classic dishes, such as her seemingly simple red beans and rice and crispy-yet-tender fried chicken.

(Tu-F), D (F). 2301 Orleans Ave., 504.821.0600. Map 1, D3; www. dookychaserestaurant.com PARKWAY BAKERY & TAVERN Louisiana The menu here is long but simple: po’boys and more po’boys. Your choices for stuffings: roast beef, oyster, shrimp, catfish and, of course, alligator sausage—and that’s just the top of the list.

L, D (W-M). 538 Hagan Ave., 504.482.3047. Map 1, D2; www.parkwaypoorboys.com

WHEN YOU SEE LES CLEFS D’OR KEYS. PLAY. EXPLORE. FEAST. ACCOMPLISH. No one knows more or can do more for you than Les Clefs d’Or Concierges.

Search beyond the internet, and discover for yourself why anything is possible with Les Clefs d’Or Concierges.

RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana Veteran restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000.Map 1, D2; www. ralphsonthepark.com 1000 FIGS Mediterranean Classic falafel sandwiches and plates are joined by seared squid salads, baba ghanouj, lamb and more. L, D (Tu-Sa). 3141 Ponce de Leon St., 504.301.0848.

Map 1, D2; www.1000figs.com TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. L, D (TuSa); Br (Su). 845 Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999.Map 1, D3; www.toupsmeatery.com

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ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE

PIECE OF MEAT Deli The menu at this petit butcher shop and restaurant is loaded with tempting options: cheese-and-boudin eggrolls, brisket sandwiches, tender ribs.

L (Th-Tu), D (Th-Sa); Br (Sa-Su).

3301 Bienville St., 504.372.2289.

Map 1, D3; www.pieceofmeat butcher.com

Uptown AVO Italian Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragout. D (M-Sa); Br (Sa-Su) 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4; www.restaurantavo.com BOUCHERIE Southern Looking for a place where you can get in and out for under $25? Chef/owner Nathanial Zimet’s culinary creations are as delicious as their prices. L (Tu-Sa); D (MSa); Br (Su). 8115 Jeannette St., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3; www.boucherie-nola.com

SH O P P IN G

BRIGTSEN’S Creole A protegé of Paul Prudhomme, chef Frank Brigtsen serves up food that is rooted in Louisiana tradition, but moves into a sphere of its own with his genius for combining tastes and ingredients. D (Tu-Sa). 723 Dante St., 504.861.7610. Map 1, C3; www.brigtsens.com CARROLLTON MARKET Louisiana Chef Jason Goodenough’s market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as New Orleans-style cassoulet.

No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough—flash-fried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and béarnaise.

D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928.

Map 1, C3; www.carrolltonmarket.com CAVAN Southern This Victorian home’s “beautiful deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Nathan Richard’s modern Southern cuisine. Start with the boudin tater tots before hopping on the chicken fried rabbit. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4; www. cavannola.com COSTERA Spanish The Spanish-inspired menu encourages plate-shar-

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ing with a wide range of tapas (papas bravas, blistered peppers, grilled octopus), along with larger entrees such as seafood paella. L, D (W-M).

4938 Prytania St., 504.302.2332.

Map 1, D4; www.costera restaurant.com DEL FUEGO Mexican Chef David Wright’s ramped-up taqueria is based on recipes and techniques gathered during travels to Mexico. Housemade tortillas wrap around duck enchiladas with Oaxacan mole, while tostadas are topped with smoked Gulf fish. L, D (M-Sa). 4518 Magazine St., 504.309.5797.

Map 1, D4; www.delfuego taqueria.com DTB Cajun Short for “down the bayou,” DTB pays homage to chef Carl Schaubhut’s Cajun country roots with mod twists on Louisiana coastal cuisine.

Think gumbo with crab fat potato salad and crispy duck confit with charred cabbage and sweet potatoes. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889. Map 1, C3; www.dtbnola.com HANSEN’S SNO-BLIZ Dessert Since 1934 locals have been lining up for Hansen’s signature snoballs. Topped with made-from-scratch syrups, the shaved-ice treats are a summer must-have. 4801 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.891.9788.

Map 1, D4; www.snobliz.com LA BOULANGERIE Bakery This French bakery doles out savory and sweet artisanal goods to regulars who are loyal verging on addicted.

Almond or ham-and-cheese croissants make light snacks, while loaves baked with blue cheese or olives are all good enough to devour on their own. $ B, L (M-Sa). 4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777. Map 1, D4; www.laboulangerienola.com PASCAL’S MANALE Italian A New Orleans landmark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 1838 Napoleon Ave.,

504.895.4877. Map 1, D4; www.pascalsmanale.com PATOIS Louisiana Aaron Burgau has earned all of the praise heaped on him in recent years as a chef “to watch.” Patois combines Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a low-key neighborhood bar scene. L (F), D (W-Sa); Br (Su). 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441. Map 1, D4; www.patoisnola.com PICNIC PROVISIONS & WHISKEY Southern Crawfish-boil hot fried chicken anchors the menu at this playful Commander’s Palace offshoot. Begin with the smoked fish dip and finish with cookie-dough s’mores.

L, D (daily). 741 State St., 504.266.2810. Map 1, D4; www.nolapicnic.com QUE RICO Latin Cuban food 101: Tender roast pork with garlicky sour-orange sauce, croquetas, Cubano sandwiches. L, D (Tu-Sa). 4200 Magazine St., 504.827.1398. Map 1, D4 SABA Mediterranean Chef Alon Shaya provides a taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as octopus with shawarma spices. L (W-F), D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine St., 504.324.7770. Map 3, D4; www.eatwithsaba.com SAFFRON NOLA Indian Chic Indian fare with contemporary flair. Top picks include the pakoda choti and roti sathi. L (F-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4; www.saffronnola.com TAL’S HUMMUS Mediterranean Soft, spongy pita fresh from the oven is a great vehicle for this Israeli restaurant’s creamy hummus, while the tender-crunchy falafel is extra delicious dragged through silky sesame tahini.

L, D (daily). 4800 Magazine St., 504.267.7357. Map 1, D4; www. ordertalsonline.com

SHOPPING Art Galleries & Antiques A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY The city’s most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4; www.agallery.com ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired

by Mick Jagger, among other collectors.

3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4; www.alexbeardstudio.com ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quarter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Woodrow Nash and Patterson & Barnes. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4; www.angelakinggallery.com ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries.

927 Royal St., 504.304.0849.

Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4; www.antieaugallery.com ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern France on Royal Street, featuring 17thand 18th-century antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars.

623 Royal St., 504.529.4342.

Map 3, G4; www.antiques deprovencellc.com ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’ leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper.

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A DV ERT IS MEN T

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432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999.

Map 3, C5; www.arthurroger gallery.com ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for undiscovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works—oil paintings, photography, pottery, blown glass, masks—by dozens of regional artists. 85 French Market Place, 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5; www.artistsmarketnola.com BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.522.9485.

Map 3, F4; www.bevolo.com

SH O P P IN G

CALLAN CONTEMPORARY Contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518.Map 3, C6; www.callancontemporary.com COLE PRATT GALLERY One of Magazine Street’s leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789.

Map 1, D4; www.colepratt gallery.com CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; www.craigtracy.com DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ CO-OP This popular artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices.

912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220.

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Map 3, H5; www.dutchalley artistsco-op.com FISCHER-GAMBINO An eclectic shop specializing in fine lighting fixtures, as well as statuary, furniture and home interesting home accents.

637 Royal St., 504.524.9067.

Map 3, G4; www.lightingnew orleans.com FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY Award-winning photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others.

910 Royal St., 504.388.7601.

Map 3, H4; www.frankrelle.com FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861.Map 3, E4; www.gofrenchantiques.com FUNERAL GALLERY Offbeat illustrations, macabre assemblage dolls, quirky circus banners: If it’s edgy and eclectic, you’ll spot it here.

Works by local and national artists are featured in a wide range of media. 811 Royal St., 504.603.6038. Map 3, H4; www.funeralgallery.com HAROUNI GALLERY David Harouni has an eye for heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. His expressionistic works have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his French Quarter studio. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4; www.harouni.com JAMES H. COHEN & SONS This fifth-generation, family-run business, founded in 1898, specializes in pre-19th-century weaponry, coins dating from 450 B.C. and Civil War-related items.

437 Royal St., 504.522.3305.

Map 3, F4; www.cohenantiques.com

JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This gallery is home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and others.

Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured.

400A Julia St., 504.522.5471.

Map 3, C6; www.jonathanferrara gallery.com KEVIN STONE ANTIQUES This respected dealer scours European estate sales for top-quality antiques, with an emphasis on unusual 18th- and 19th-century items from France and Italy. 3420 Magazine St., 504.891.8282. Map 1, D4; www.kevinstoneantiques.com KURT E. SCHON LTD. This fine art gallery deals in international oil paintings from the 18th and 19th centuries for collectors, museums and investors. 510 St. Louis St., 504.524.5462. Map 3, F5; www.kurteschonltd.com LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings, sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassworks are among the media exhibited here. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6; www.lemieuxgalleries.com LUCKY ROSE GALLERY Devoted to the porcelain sculpture of artist-owner Cathy Rose, who often incorporates repurposed pieces of New Orleans into her works. 840 Royal St., 504.309.8000.Map 3, H4; www.cathyrose.com M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660.

Map 3, G4; www.rauantiques.com MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERIES This branch of the nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings and sculpture by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté. 433 Royal St.,

504.299.9055. Map 3, F4; www.martinlawrence.com MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable.

You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes.

617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4; www.michalopoulos.com MODERNIST CUISINE GALLERY Renowned photographer Nathan Myhrvold focuses on the science of cooking and cutting-edge culinary techniques.

305 Royal St., 504.571.5157.

Map 3, F4; www.modernist cuisinegallery.com MOSS ANTIQUES Fine art objects fill this gallery, which offers jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories. Merchandise here comes primarily from England and France. 411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. Map 3, F4; www.mossantiques.com MYTH GALLERY Part animal/part human, Betsy Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also showcases the whimsical sculpture of R. Scott Long. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312.Map 3, H4; www.myth-gallery.com NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS Since 1938, this Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4; www. neworleanssilversmiths.com OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space spotlights local and international artists. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6; www.octaviaartgallery.com PENNINGTON FINE ART With no formal training, Jim Pennington honed his craft studying (and copying) the paintings of Degas, Sargent, Whistler and others. His French

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RED TRUCK GALLERY “Beautiful, unexpected art” by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. 940 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4; www.redtruckgallery.com RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark is devoted to the works of the late great “Blue Dog” master, George Rodrigue. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; www.georgerodrigue.com SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERY Step into this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.”

4537 Magazine St.,

504.333.6951. Map 1, D4; www.ashleylongshore.com STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’ preeminent exhibition space for AfricanAmerican artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker and Charly Palmer, among others. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050.

Map 3, D4; www.stellajones gallery.com STUDIO BE Brandan Odums’ graffiti-style murals are the perfect fit for this massive warehouse space.

The evocative collection explores African-American life through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Sa, 2-8 pm.

2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231.

Map 1, E3; www.ephemeral eternal.ecom

TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life.

3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; www.terranceosborne.com

WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when there’s Wirthmore Antiques?

Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660. Map 1, D4; www.wirthmoreantiques.com

VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this hip shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Vintage sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and retro barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4

Books & Music BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare, antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5; www.beckhamsbookshop.com FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction.

624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940.

Map 3, G4; www. faulkner housebooks.com

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THE GUIDE

WINDSOR FINE ART This gallery features fine works in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by Toulouse-Lautrec. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4; www. windsorfineart.com

Shopping

Quarter gallery offers original oilworks, along with giclées.

829 Royal St., 985.789.5547.

Map 3, H4; www.pennington art.com

GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP This well-stocked shop offers hundreds of current titles, in addition to a large selection of New Orleans-related books.

Frequent author appearances.

2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266.

Map 1, D4 ; www.gardendistrict bookshop.com LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Live performances on Saturdays.

421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; www.louisianamusicfactory.com PEACHES RECORDS For nearly five decades, this local chain has been promoting area musicians with a large selection of New Orleans music. 4318 Magazine St., 504.282.3322. Map 1, D4

SH O P P IN G

SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music shop is big on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings. Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

Clothing BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes and accessories. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4; www.billyreid.com THE CAJUN HATTER Self-made milliner Colby Hebert’s Cajun roots are evident in his “swamp chic” headwear, which incorporates natural elements such as alligator skin and beaver felt. 4516 Magazine St., 504.875.4644. Map 1, D4; www.colbyhebert.com DEFEND NEW ORLEANS Part T-shirt shop, part boutique and part home store. With its iconic skull, fleur de lis and musket branding, this hip spot embodies the resilient spirit of the city. 1101 First St.,

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504.941.7010. Map 1, D4; 600 Carondelet St., 504.324.7463. www.defendneworleans.com Map 3, C5; 504.484.9830 DIRTY COAST You won’t find your standard Bourbon Street T-shirts here.

Catering to locals and in-theknow visitors, Dirty Coast’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans.

713 Royal St., 504.324.6730.

Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745.Map 1, D4; www.dirtycoast.com FLEUR DE PARIS You’re guaranteed to turn heads when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats. Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4; www.fdphats.com GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s hip headwear and stylish stores are found nationwide. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2127 Magazine St., 504.522.1890.

Map 1, D3; www.goorin.com H&M This Swedish-based retail chain is known around the globe for its fab fashions and hard-to-resist prices. Women’s, men’s and children’s clothing is featured, along with home accents. 418 N. Peters St., 855.466.7467.

Map 3, F5; www.hm.com HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, accessories by such lines as BCBG and Laundry are found here. 609 Chartres St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; 3310 Magazine St., 504.702.8009.

Map 1, D4; www.shophemline.com LOST AND FOUND What you’ll find at these fun French Quarter shops is a rotating inventory of women’s clothing and accessories mixed with offbeat gift items. 323 Chartres St., 504.595.6745.

Map 3, F4; 321 Toulouse St.

Map 3, G5; www.lostandfound nola.com

Map 3, G4; www.trashydiva.com

PENELOPE Affordable luxury is the key phrase at this sophisticated women’s boutique. Searching for edgy elegance with a European accent? You’ll find it here at hard-to-beat prices: All items are under $100. 328 Chartres St., 504.522.5893.

Map 3, F4

UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs at drastically reduced prices. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4; www.shopual.com

PERLIS Mudbug season lasts yearround at Perlis, purveyor of its famous crawfish-logo line of clothing. In addition, Perlis carries such specialty items as Mardi Gras-hued rugby shirts.

The place for classic seersucker suits. 600 Decatur St., 504.523.6681. Map 3, G5; 6070 Magazine St., 504.895.8661.

Map 1, D4; www.perlis.com PIPPEN LANE Go ahead and spoil the child at this upscale boutique, which features fine designer kids’ clothing for both boys and girls, stylish European shoes, custom furniture and embroidered linens. 2930 Magazine St., 504.269.0106. Map 1, D4; www.pippenlane.com QUEORK Cork is the get at this sleek boutique, where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more.

838 Chartres St., 504.481.2585.

Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.388.6803.Map 1, D4; www.queork.com TASC Originating in New Orleans, this popular line of active wear is now found nationwide.

The secret to its success is its eco-conscious fabric that blends bamboo with organic cotton and merino wool.

3913 Magazine St., 504.304.5030. Map 1, D4; www.tascperformance.com TRASHY DIVA Original and vintage-inspired designs with a modern sensibility. The shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie and accessories.

537 Royal St.,504.522.4233.

WEINSTEIN’S Elegant European women’s wear, from casual to formal, is the specialty at this store, which features the latest by leading designers. 4011 Magazine St., 504.895.6278. Map 1, D4; www.weinsteinsinc.com

Gifts & Collectibles BOTTOM OF THE CUP In addition to psychic readings (palm, tarot, tea leaf), this 80-year-old shop offers a variety of teas and accessories.

Crystals, amulets and other metaphysical gift items are also available. 327 Chartres St., 504.524.1997. Map 3, F4; www.bottomofthecup.com BOUTIQUE DU VAMPYRE Searching for a set of custom-made fangs? Look no further than the nation’s only vampire store, where you’ll also find leather coffin cases, silver bullet jewelry and temporary bite tattoos. 709 St. Ann St., 504.561.8267. Map 3, G4; www.feelthebite.com BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and great gift items.

719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4; www.shopbungalows.com CIGAR FACTORY NEW ORLEANS & MUSEUM Watch master cigar makers at work in the Crescent City’s oldest and only cigar factory and museum. Among the specialty styles made here are Plantation Reserve and Vieux Carré. 415 Decatur St., 504.568.1003.

Map 3, F5; 206 Bourbon St.,

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Sun–Thu 10 – 6, Fr i – S a t 10 – 9 • 6 1 7 B i e nv i l l e S t , N e w O r l e a n s

DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with his decorative pottery. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4; www.derbypottery.com ELLEN MACOMBER FINE ART & TEXTILES Searching for cool Crescent City collectibles? Set the GPS for this shop, where street map-inspired designs are offered on everything from clothing to housewares. 1516 Magazine St., 504.314.9414. Map 1, D3; www.ellenmacomber.com

FOREVER NEW ORLEANS At this shop, you’ll find fleurde-lis everything—from pillows to pottery—along with other Crescent City-themed keepsakes and gift items. 308 Royal St., 504.525.0100. Map 3, F4; 606 Royal St., 504.510.4813.

Map 3, G4; 700 Royal St., 504.586.3536. Map 3, G4; www. shopforeverneworleans.com HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERY This magical emporium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners, and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558.

Map 3, I5; www.hexwitch.com

LIGHTING - ART - FURNITURE 637 Royal Street, New Orleans, LA 504.524.9067 / 888.524.9067 www.lightingneworleans.com

LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770.

Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5; www.littletoyshopnola.com

THE MASK GALLERY Austrian crystals, hand-tooled leather and fanciful feathers are the signature touches of maskmaker Massoud Dalili’s colorful Carnival creations.

841 Royal St., 504.523.6664.

Map 3, F4; www.neworleans mask.com MIETTE Out-of-the-ordinary gifts and souvenirs are showcased at this colorful and crowded boutique.

A mix of locally made jewelery, crafts, clothing and home accents is offered. 2038 Magazine St., 504 .522.2883. Map 1, D4; www. iheartmiette.com NOLA BOARDS Add a dash of Crescent City flavor to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. 519 Wilkinson St., Suite 105, 504.435.1485. Map 3, G4; www.nolaboards.com NOLA KIDS This children’s boutique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth, along with toys, books and great gift items. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340.

Map 3, F4; www.shopnolakids.com RICCA ARCHITECTURAL SALES This Mid-City warehouse is packed with retro Southern splendor rescued from demolished buildings. Hard-to-find antique hardware, ornate mantles, stained-glass windows and an endless selection of doors merely hint at the offerings. 511 N. Solomon St., 504.488.5524.

Map 1, D2; www.riccas architecturalsales.com ROUX ROYALE This shop caters to foodies with select serving ware and kitchen-related accessories,

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ERZULIE’S AUTHENTIC VOUDOU Experience the power of authentic voodoo at this shop, which offers handcrafted spell kits, magical gris-gris bags, voodoo psychic oils, love potions, dolls and more.

807 Royal St., 504.525.2055.

Map 3, G4; www.erzulies.com

MADAME AUCOIN PERFUME “The oldest perfumer in the South” lives on thanks to her great grand-nephew, who recently reopened shop in her former residence. Artisanal fragrance lines are featured.

608 Bienville St., 504.259.5975.

Map 3, F4; www.madame aucoinperfume.com

Shopping

504.568.0168. Map 3, E4; www. cigarfactoryneworleans.com

many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4; www.shoprouxroyale.com

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and topof-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090.

Map 1, D4; www.aidangillformen.com

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BELLADONNA DAY SPA Attempting to cover the entire six-mile stretch of Magazine Street can run even the most ardent shopper ragged.

Thankfully, Belladonna sits at the halfway point, providing rejuvenation before heading back out on the hunt. 2900 Magazine St., 504.891.4393.

Map 1, D4; www.belladonna dayspa.com FIFI MAHONY’S In search of the perfect pink wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby red lipstick? It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4; www. fifimahonys.com HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that has been in business for 80-plus years.

Among the perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents.

434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827.

Map 3, F5; www.hoveparfumeur.com SEPHORA The local branch of the nation’s leading cosmetics and perfume retailer offers more than 13,000 products from 200-plus brands, all of which can be tested on-site. 414 N. Peters St., 504.561.9889.

Map 3, F5; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, 504.830.4567.

Map 1, C2; www.sephora.com

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THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious, award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café.

921 Canal St., 504.670.2929.

Map 3, E3; www.ritzcarlton.com WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10 private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate French clay, roses and water lilies. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200.

Map 3, E3; www.roosevelt neworleans.com TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these centrally located relaxation stations, which specialize in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7

Jewelry ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget.

Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; www. artandeyesneworleansla.com FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron, St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254.

Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4; www. fleurdorleans.com KREWE Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett has garnered a national following with his locally designed line of glasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New

Orleans street. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, H4; 1818 Magazine St., 504.342.2462.

Map 1, D4; www.krewe.com MIGNON FAGET Designer Faget has created jewelry for more than four decades.

New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 504.524.2973.

Map 3, E5; 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; www. mignonfaget.com PORTER LYONS Jewelry designer Ashley Lyons is a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations. 631 Toulouse St., 504.518.4945. Map 3, G5; www. porterlyons.com WELLINGTON & COMPANY This shop is largely devoted to antique and estate jewelry, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and art deco designs. 505 Royal St., 504.525.4855. Map 3, F4

Malls/ Major Retailers LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and the airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, Macy’s, Michael Kors, Microsoft and Sephora.

3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2; www. lakesideshopping.com THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Located along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the nation’s first urban outlet center offers more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio.

500 Port of New Orleans Place, 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7; www.riverwalkneworleans.com THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, Saks Fifth Avenue, Tory

Burch and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a movie theater. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5; www. theshopsatcanalplace.com

Shoes FEET FIRST More than 50 lines of women’s brand-name shoes, handbags, jewelry and accessories are offered here, along with items by local designers. also featured. 4122 Magazine St., 504.899.6800. Map 1, D4 GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop for professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers to dress shoes.

539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929.

Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2; www.orleansshoes.com JOHN FLUEVOG “Unique soles for unique souls.” This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers.

321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296.

Map 3, F4; www.fluevog.com NOLA FOOT CANDY Sweet treats for your feet.

Located along Jackson Square, this womens shoe shop stocks a wide variety of fun and fashionable styles. 510 St. Peter St., 504.252.9144. Map 3, G4; www.nolafootcandy.com SHOE BE DO Get a step ahead with cutting-edge women’s footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; www.shoebedousa.com

Special Services PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICES This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with 40 related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415.

Map 1, D4; www.packratshipping.com

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Attractions

ATTRACTIONS Attractions & Landmarks ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre green space is home to Congo Square, where jazz is believed to have first taken root.

N. Rampart and St. Ann streets.

Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Admission includes a ticket for the Entergy Giant Screen Theater.

Open daily at 10 am; call for closing hours. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6; www.auduboninstitute.org

AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36).

St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4; www.auduboninstitute.org

Wine. Cocktails. Charcuterie. & most importantly, Friends.

1320 Magazine Street www.claretnola.com

AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the finest in the U.S. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing hours. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4; www.auduboninstitute.org CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities of the dead” act as windows on the past, offering insight into local history and customs. Many are located in high-crime areas.

Tours are available; do not venture in alone, day or night.

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AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTARIUM The nation’s largest museum devoted to insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5; www.auduboninstitute.org

CHALMETTE BATTLEFIELD & NATIONAL CEMETERY Just down the river from where Andrew Jackson’s statue stands in the square that bears his name is the battlefield where he fought the last battle of the War of 1812. 8606 W St Bernard Hwy., 504.281.0510.

Map 1, F3; www.nps.gov/jela/ chalmette-battlefield.htm CINEBARRE CANAL PLACE This state-of-the-art movie theater offers nine separate screens, along with in-seat dining from its in-house café and bar. The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.493.6535. Map 3, E5; www.thetheatres.com

AT T R A C T IO N S

CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 Dreyfous Ave., 504.482.4888.

Map 1, D2; www.neworleans citypark.com CRESCENT PARK Looking for unique views of the city? Stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront promenade, which stretches from the French Quarter to the Bywater neighborhood. Map 3, J6; www.crescentparknola.org ESCAPE MY ROOM The concept of this live, interactive game is simple—solve the puzzle within an hour and you and your teammates “escape” the mystery room—but it’s way more complex (and fun) than that. Reservations required. 633 Constance St., 504.475.7580. Map 3, D6; www.escapemyroom.com FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market dates to pre-colonial days. Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1100 N. Peters St., 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5; www.frenchmarket.org FULTON ALLEY Putting a fresh spin on the old bowling alley, this upscale venue offers 12 lanes in a sleek setting, along with an indoor game parlor (bocce, foosball,

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etc.), cool craft cocktails and big-flavored small plates.

600 Fulton St., 504.208.5569.

Map 3, D6; www.fultonalley.com HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino features 2,100 slots, 104 table games, live entertainment and a lavish buffet. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6; www.harrahsneworleans.com JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo op. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5 JEAN LAFITTE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK AND PRESERVE On this 23,000-acre area of protected wetlands, you’ll get to see egrets, cranes, pelicans and alligators in their natural habitat. Wooden walkways allow you to explore deep into the swamp. 6588 Barataria Blvd., Marrero, 504.589.3882 LAFITTE GREENWAY This 2.6-mile bike and pedestrian trail connects Armstrong Park to City Park. The ADAcompliant green corridor, dotted with recreation fields, offers quiet retreat in the heart of the city. Map 3, F2; www.lafittegreenway.org MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4 pm. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8; www.mardigrasworld.com MERCEDES-BENZ SUPERDOME The recently revamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2; www.mbsuperdome.com

NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS This popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495.

Map 1, D3; www.seelos.org NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This pocket park celebrates Bourbon Street’s musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and live music.

311 Bourbon St., 504.888.7608.

Map 3, F4; www.neworleans musicallegends.com NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & STORE Creole/Cajun cooking demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm.

524 St. Louis St., 504.208.5320.

Map 3, F5; www.nosoc.com OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is the oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M-F, 10 am-4 pm; Sa, 9 am-3 pm. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4; www.stlouiscathedral.org SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Superdome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. 1501 Dave Dixon Drive, 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2 ; www.smoothiekingcenter.com ST. AUGUSTINE CHURCH The second-oldest AfricanAmerican Catholic church in the nation. A jazz Mass is held Sundays at 10 am. 1210 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.525.5934 Map 3, I2; www.staugustine catholicchurch-neworleans.org

ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Mass said daily.

615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square), 504.525.9585.

Map 3, G4; www.stlouis cathedral.org WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront promenade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6

Museums ABITA MYSTERY HOUSE Housed in a former filling station in nearby Abita Springs, artist John Preble’s eccentric send-up of “redneck culture” features offbeat oddities fashioned from more than 50,000 found objects. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 22275 Highway 36, Abita Springs, 985.892.2624. Map 2, F1; www.abitamysteryhouse.com BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM Located in a former funeral parlor, this offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous sendoffs and second-line parades.

Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display.

Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm.

1116 Henriette Delille St., 504.522.4806. Map 3, I2; www.backstreetmuseum.org CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also plays host to performances.

900 Camp St., 504.528.3800.

Map 3, B6; www.cacno.org DEGAS HOUSE The home where Edgar Degas lived during his time in New Orleans is filled with prints of the French impressionist’s works.

Tours of the 1852 property are offered daily at 10:30 am and 1:45 pm, and by appointment.

2306 Esplanade Ave., 504.821.5009. Map 1, D2; www.degashouse.com

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Attractions

ITION EXH IB A FR E E RING RT I N F E AT U RARY A R O P M E E CO NT Q UART ENCH R F E H T

GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm. 1132 Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4; www.hgghh.org HERMANN-GRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/ museum provides a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past.

Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750. Map 3, F4; www.hgghh.org

520 Royal Street www.hnoc.org • (504) 523-4662

LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUMS Children learn through handson exhibits at this award-winning museum. Permanent exhibits include ”Little Port of New Orleans” and “New Orleans: Proud to Call It Home.”

Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, noon-4:30 pm. 420 Julia St., 504.523.1357 Map3, C6. www. lcm.org LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS The Louisiana State Museum operates five French Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbyère, the circa-1789 Madame John’s Legacy; the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. 504.568.6968.www. louisianastatemuseum.org NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits. The Victory Theater shows the 4D

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#artofthecitynola

HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions and permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; www.hnoc.org

film “Beyond All Boundaries.”

945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944.

Map 3, B6; ww.nationalww2 museum.org

1504 Oretha C. Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3; www.southernfood.org

NEW ORLEANS AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM This repository of AfricanAmerican art, culture and history is located in the Meilleur-Goldwaithe House in the Faubourg Tremé, America’s oldest black neighborhood. 1418 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.566.1136.

Map 3, I2; www.noaam.org

Plantations

NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free outdoor sculpture garden.

Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm.

1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; www.noma.org

AT T R A C T IO N S

NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM This former apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain.Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm.

514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027.

Map 3, G4; www.pharmacymuseum.org OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open F-W, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; www.ogdenmuseum.org PITOT HOUSE MUSEUM Located along scenic Bayou St. John, this circa-1799 home, built for New Orleans’ first mayor, is an excellent example of a Creole plantation house. Open W-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. 1440 Moss St., 504.482.0312. Map 1, D2; www.louisianalandmarks.org SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFAB features exhibits, along with cooking classes.

Open W-M, 11 am-5:30 pm.

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DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley.

Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. Closed all major holidays.

13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095. www.destrehan plantation.org HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds.

Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877.303.1776 for details.

40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380. www.houmas house.com

We’ve combined five tours into ONE EXCITING CITY TOUR FRENCH QUARTER • KATRINA RECOVERY • HITORIC CHEMETERIES GARDEN DISTRICT • NEW ORLEANS ARCHITECTURE

LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This 1804 structure is one of the oldest and largest complexes on River Road. Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages of documents detailing 200 years of Creole plantation life by the women, children and servants who lived there. Guided tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm.

2247 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. www.laura plantation.com NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White Castle of Louisiana” is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South.

Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. Overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended.

31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730. www.nottoway.com OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture-perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live

JU N E 2 0 1 9

Entertainment

oaks, is a spectacular sight.

“The Grande Dame of Great River Road” offers overnight accommodations in century-old cottages. Guided tours daily, 9 am-5 pm. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 888.279.9802. www.oakalleyplantation.org SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home, built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. Closed major holidays.

2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756. www.sanfrancisco plantation.org

WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the public for the first time in its 265-year history, this plantation explores slavery through moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300. www.whitneyplantation.com

ENTERTAINMENT Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore Louisiana swamplands via guided, high-speed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. 504.689.2005 or 888.

GO.SWAMP. www.airboat adventures.com CANOE & TRAIL ADVENTURES Explore Lake Pontchartrain the way Native Americans did.

Daily three-hour, eco-friendly

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THE GUIDE

ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of 19th-century architect Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877. The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. 535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078. www.stjosephplantation.com

canoe and kayak excursions with certified guides are offered. Call for reservations and launch locations. 504.233.0686 CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides intimate group tours of the French Quarter, Garden District and area cemeteries, along with Hurricane Katrina recovery excursions and private outings.

Tours average 2.5 to three hours; rates vary. 504.587.7115. www.celebrationtoursllc.com CITY SIGHTSEEING This double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; www. citysightseeingneworleans.com

EN T ER TA IN M EN T

CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS These guided bicycle tours take visitors out of the French Quarter and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored neighborhoods. Cocktail and culinary excursions are also offered. 634 Eylsian Fields Ave., 504.400.5468.

Map 3, J5; www.confederacyof cruisers.com CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; www.creolequeen.com DRINK & LEARN Culinary historian Elizabeth Pearce leads these fun and informative tippling tours through the French Quarter.

504.578.8280. www.drinkandlearn.com FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS These guided walking tours cover everything from ghost and vampire lore to cemeteries and music. All tours depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street); reservations required. 718 N. Rampart St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4; www.frenchquarter phantoms.com

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FRENCH QUARTOUR KIDS These guided walks take children on a journey back in time through the streets of the historic Vieux Carré.

Check website for current tour schedule. 504.975.5355. www. frenchquartourkids.com.

FRIENDS OF THE CABILDO Informative, two-hour walking tours of the French Quarter are offered daily at 10:30 am and 1:30 pm. 523 St. Ann St., 504.523.3939. Map 3, G5; www.friendsofthecabildo.org GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS Gray Line offers a variety of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, Steamboat and River Cruises—and all possible combinations. All depart from the Toulouse Street Wharf.

Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; www.graylineneworleans.com HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. www.haunted historytours.com JEAN LAFITTE SWAMP TOURS This privately owned company with trained guides provides an up-close look at local flora and fauna. Daily swamp and airboat tours are offered. Transportation from area hotels available. 6601 Leo Kerner Lafitte Pkwy., Marrero, 504.529.4567. www.jeanlafitte swamptour.com KAYAK-ITI-YAT Kayak tours of beautiful Bayou St. John, which cuts a scenic swatch through the midsection of the city, are offered daily; call for launch times. (Tours launch across from 3494 Esplanade Ave.) 985.778.5034 ; 512.964.9499. Map 1, D2; www.kayakitiyat.com

Tour Times 7 Days a enient Wee k!

Conv am, Noon, 3:00 pm 0 0 : 9 ER CEMET UART ERIE CH Q N S E T C I FR R T KATR S I D I N N E A AFTER RD MAT GA E H TREM LAKE P O K N R T CHAR PA TRA CITY IN

Reserve your seat NOW! • Hotel Pick Up & Drop off

(504) 329-2489 www.VIPcitytours.com

National Shrine of Blessed Francis Xavier SEELOS In Historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church - Sanctuary of Prayer, Hope & Healing - Religious Articles - Free Tours 919 Josephine St. in the Irish Channel (one block off Magazine Street)

(504) 525-2495 seelos.org

PRODUCTS & SERVICES: Notary Public Copies, Fax & Scan

WE SHIP WINE!

FedEx, DHL, & USPS Shipping 9 am – 6 pm; SAT 10 am – 4 pm; SUN Closed

3436 Magazine St. | 504.899.5415

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St. Joseph Plantation -Family owned since 1877.

St. Joseph Plantation -Original cabins of the Enslaved.

St.-Annual Joseph Plantation -Family owned since 1877.

Creole Mourning Tour the

-Original cabins of the Enslaved.

-Family owned since 1877. month of October.Tour the -Annual -OriginalCreole cabinsMourning of the Enslaved.

-Birthplace of 19th century architect, October.Tour -Annualmonth Creole of Mourning the Henry H. Richardson.

-Birthplace of 19th century month of October.architect, -ToursHenry offered days a week.

H.seven Richardson.

-Birthplace of 19th century architect, -Tours offered days aLAweek.

Henry H.seven Richardson.

3535 Hwy. 18 (River Road), Vacherie, 70090 -Tours offered seven days a week.

3535 Hwy. 18 (River Road), Vacherie, LA 70090

STJOSEPHPLANTATION.COM 3535 Hwy. 18 (River Road), Vacherie, LA 70090 STJOSEPHPLANTATION.COM

ROYAL EGYPT TOUR WITH DR. ZAHI HAWASS Discover the secrets of Egypt with a tour company unlike any other. Visit the Land of the Pharaohs with the world’s most famous archaeologist, Dr. Zahi Hawass, who has held the keys to all Egyptian antiquities for more than 20 years. Meet distinguished guests including Dr. Mostafa Waziri, Egypt’s Head of Antiquities, and former First Lady Mrs. Jehan Sadat, in the residence of Egypt’s late president Anwar Sadat. “No one can tour Egypt like this.

Except for you—when you come and join me,” says Dr. Hawass.

917.719.1974. www.royalegypt.com SAVE OUR CEMETERIES St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am, 11:30 am and 1 pm from Backatown Coffee Parlour (301 Basin St.). Lafayette No. 1: departs daily at 10:30 am and 1 pm from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). 504.525.3377. www.save ourcemeteries.org STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to

TABASCO PEPPER SAUCE FACTORY TOUR Daily guided tours of the factory and museum are offered 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays), along with tours of the Jungle Gardens and Bird City.

La. Hwy. 329, Avery Island, La., 337.365.8173. Map 2, C2; www.tabacso.com VIP CITY TOURS These two-hour excursions offer a sweeping overview of the city, from the French Quarter and the Garden District to Lake Pontchartrain and the Lower 9th Ward. Tours conducted daily at 9 am, 1 and 4 pm.

2314 Iberville St., 504.329.2489.

Map 1, D3; www.vipcitytours.com

NIGHTLIFE Cocktails ALTO Get above it all at the Ace Hotel’s rooftop bar, which offers amazing views and poolside dining. Open daily, 10 am-9 pm. 600 Corondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map 3, C5; www.acehotel.com/new orleans/alto ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; www.arnauds.com AVENUE PUB The New Orleans go-to for craft beers, offering the city’s largest available selection of locally produced brews. 1732 St. Charles Ave., 504.586.9243.

Map 1, D3; www.theavenue pub.com BARCADIA A bar and arcade in one—get it?

Old-school games (Jenga, Skeeball, air hockey) are the draw... along with 30-plus beers on tap. Hungry? Grab a burger or a fried PB&J. 601 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.335.1740. Map 3, D6; www.barcadianola.com

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THE GUIDE

STJOSEPHPLANTATION.COM

RIVERBOAT CITY OF NEW ORLEANS The city’s newest riverboat has all of the flair and flavor of the city, with great dining, jazz, bars, history and culture. Daily jazz brunch and dinner cruises are offered. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401.

Map 3, E7; www.riverboatcity ofneworleans.com

verify availability. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; www.steamboatnatchez.com

Nightlife

NEW ORLEANS SPIRITS AND SPELLS TOUR These guided spirited journeys through the French Quarter explore the ghosts, gris-gris and witchery associated with the world’s most magical city.

Departs Friday to Sunday at 7 pm from Hex: Old World Witchery. 1219 Decatur St., 504.667.5570. Map 3, I5; www.spiritsandspellstour.com

BARREL PROOF This Lower Garden District hot spot offers more than 150 brands of whiskey from around the globe. 1201 Magazine St., 504.299.1888. Map 3, A7; www.barrelproofnola.com BAYOU WINE GARDEN This casual Mid-City spot offers 32 rotating wines on draft and a huge bottled selection. Cheese and charcuterie boards are also available, in addition to small and large plates. More a suds fan? Cross the courtyard bridge to the adjacent Bayou Beer Garden. 315 N. Rendon St., 504.826.2925. Map 1, D3; www.bayouwinegarden.com

N IG H T L IF E

CURE This cutting-edge cocktail lounge, housed in a former fire station, has one foot in the 19th century and one in the 21st, making it one of the hippest places in town to imbibe and socialize. 4905 Freret St., 504.302.2357. Map 1, D3; www.curenola.com EFFERVESENCE This bubbly spot features 90plus bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates. Open W-Su. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3; www.nolabubbles.com HERMES BAR This sophisticated hideaway, tucked inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street. Live entertainment on weekends. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4; www.antoines.com HOT TIN Named after a Tennessee Williams play (the author once stayed here) this sophisticated space on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel offers creative cocktails and amazing views. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1453. Map 1, D3; www.hottinbar.com LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine

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yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H4; www. lafittesblacksmithshop.com NOLA BREWING Weekly brewery tours, a massive tap room and in-house barbecue make this a must-stop for beer fans. 3001 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.9996. Map 3, D4; www.nolabrewing.com OLD ABSINTHE HOUSE A favored tavern of such bon vivants as Oscar Wilde, Mark Twain and Walt Whitman, this historic bar continues to draw absinthe enthusiasts and those thirsty for a taste of authentic New Orleans as it has since 1806. 240 Bourbon St., 504.523.3181. Map 3, F4; www.oldabsinthehouse.com PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; www.patobriens.com THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip.

State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354.

Map 3, E4; www.penthouse clubneworleans.com ROYAL FRENCHMEN BAR Just steps from the bustling nightlife on Frenchmen Street, this cozy hotel bar offers craft cocktails, local brews, light bites and live music nightly.

Open daily at noon. 700 Royal St., 504.619.9600. Map 3, J4; www.royalfrenchmen.com SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic cocktails in the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; www. therooseveltneworleans.com TIKI TOLTECA A bit of the tropics on the edge of the French Quarter. Totems and coconut heads grace the

bar, which serves up mai tais, zombies and Scorpion Bowls daily. 301 N. Decatur St. (inside Felipe’s), 504.288.8226.

Map 3, F5; www.tikitolteca.com

Live Entertainment APPLE BARREL This raffish joint is tiny but has a warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the crowded room. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J5 BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish. Local acts perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.948.2583. Map 3, J5; www.bluenilelive.com CAFÉ NEGRIL This intimate club features crowd-pleasing live acts, ranging from jazz and blues to rock and reggae (Fridays), and an island-themed atmosphere that sets a mellow vibe. 606 Frenchmen St., 504.383.5131.

Map 3, J5; www.cafenegril nola.com CAROUSEL BAR Located in the Hotel Monteleone, this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers). Live music nightly.

214 Royal St., 504.523.3341.

Map 3, E4; www.hotel monteleone.com CHICKIE WAH WAH This hot venue keeps the MidCity music scene at a steady boil with sets by leading jazz and funk acts. 2828 Canal St., 844.244.2543. Map 1, D3; www.chickiewahwah.com CIRCLE BAR This tiny Lee Circle bar draws a loyal crowd of neighborhood night crawlers, habitual hipsters and tourists looking for a slice of local life. Great jukebox; live music starts around 10 pm. 1032 St. Charles Ave., 504.588.2616. Map 3, B6; www.circlebarneworleans.com

D.B.A. This chic hangout on the Frenchmen strip features 20 premium draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and live music nightly. Lively weehours scene. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5; www.dbaneworleans.com THE DAVENPORT LOUNGE An elegant escape inside the Ritz-Carlton offering classic New Orleans cocktails and sexy small plates, along with entertainment by trumpeter/ crooner Jeremy Davenport.

921 Canal St., 504.524.1331.

Map 3, E3; www.ritzcarlton.com THE FILLMORE NEW ORLEANS Harrah’s Casino ups the live-music ante with this 22,000 sq.-ft. offshoot of the legendary San Francisco venue, which feaures top-tier national touring acts. 6 Canal St., 504.881.1555. Map 3, E6; www.fillmorenola.com GASA GASA Live music, local art exhibitions, film screenings and recording sessions are all on tap at this quirky Uptown music venue. 4920 Freret St., 504.338.3567. Map 1, D3; www.gasagasa.com HI-HO LOUNGE This legendary dive got a recent makeover, complete with an expanded stage and new sound system. Thankfully the vibe remains as funky and friendly as ever. Entertainment runs the gamut, from bluegrass to burlesque. 2239 St. Claude Ave., 504.945.4446. Map 3, K4; www.hiholounge.net HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; www.hob.com HOWLIN’ WOLF This locally owned and operated club features low cover charges and low attitude. Acts include both local favorites and big names; the music ranges from punk to rock.

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THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. The club features a rotating roster of leading local talent nightly at 8 pm.

300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299.

Map , F4; www.sonesta.com/ jazzplayhouse LITTLE GEM SALOON This long-neglected jazz landmark has received a new lease on life, and is once again a player on the city’s live-music scene with performances most nights of the week. 445 S. Rampart St., 504.267.4863. Map 3, C3; www.littlegemsaloon.com

PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841.Map 3, G4; www. preservation hall.com REPUBLIC NEW ORLEANS One of downtown’s hottest night spots. Bands, touring and local, share the stage with a late-night dance club. 828 S. Peters St., 504.528.8282.

Map 3, C6; www.republicnola.com ROCK ’N’ BOWL A legendary local favorite now in a new, larger location, Rock ’n’ Bowl still features the winning combination of bowling lanes and live music from the region’s top zydeco, R&B and rock acts.

3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.861.1700.Map 1, D3; www.rockandbowl.com SNUG HARBOR An elegant, intimate mainstay of Frenchmen Street’s music row. Two sets nightly.

626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696.Map 3, J4; www.snugjazz.com THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual, laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following among locals and visitors alike. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) and continues way into the night.

623 Frenchmen St., no phone.

Map 3, J5; www.spottedcat musicclub.com STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Swing back to a bygone era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6; ww.stagedoorcanteen.org

THREE KEYS This hip space in the Ace Hotel mixes things up with live performances by local music acts, swing dance lessons and guest speakers discussing New Orleans culture. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map 1, D3; www.threekeysnola.com THREE MUSES This hip venue offers a veritable nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5; www.3musesnola.com TIPITINA’S The legendary Tip’s offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars.. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; www.tipitinas.com

THE GUIDE

MAPLE LEAF A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3; www.mapleleafbar.com

ONE EYED JACKS Rockabilly, retro, rock, neo-burlesque: this swank-dive serves it all up in a vintage bordello atmosphere. 615 Toulouse St., 504.569.8361. Map 3, G4; www.oneeyedjacks.net

Nightlife

907 S. Peters St., 504.529.5844.

Map 3, C7; www.thehowlin wolf.com

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SPECI A L A DV ERT ISING SECT ION

1 menTion where For

$5 Off your S. RAMPART

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1219 Decatur St. • Near French Market

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Harrah’s Casino

Aquarium of the Americas & Entergy Imax Algiers Theatre 6 Riverwalk Ferry Creole Queen

Real men DO eat quiche!!

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Winner 3 years in a row, New Orleans Magazine Tops of the Town for Brunch 2017, 2018, 2019 125 Camp Street | 504-561-8844 | www.redgravycafe.com

4

Includes Soup or Bayona Salad, any Entree and Ice cream or Sorbert

907 Bourbon Street (504) 592-4666

430 Dauphine Street

(504) 525-4455 NO-WM_090300_Skully's-FQ Walk.in1 1

907 Bourbon Street (504) 592-4666

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MONTH YEAR NO-WM_090300_Skully's-FQ Walk.in1 1

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2/9/09

SPECI A L A DV ERT ISING SECT ION

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85 French Market Pl., 1228 Decatur St., New Orleans, LA 70116

504.561.0046

Historic Algiers Point

sales@theartistsmarketnola.com

www.theartistsmarketnola.com

5

6

9

KILLER POBOYS Internationally Inspired, Chef Crafted, New Orleans Style Sandwiches

219 Dauphine (504) 462-2731 Wed - Mon | 10AM - 8PM

811 Conti @ Erin Rose Bar (504)252-6745 Wed - Mon | 10AM - Midnight

55

S. RAMPART

100 BARO

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9 EXCHANGE ALLEY

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Historic N.O. Collection

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St. Louis Cathedral

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Creole Queen

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Canal Place Shopping Centre

Aquarium of the Americas Algiers 6 Ferry

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lost and found

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Entergy IMAX Theatre

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Jackson Squar e

TCAR

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Historic Algiers Point

Unique Women’s Clothing in Small to 3x

NOLA Lights Soy Candles Locally Made Items Gifts & So Much More

WALKING TOUR

4

Serving Lunch & Dinner.

Live Music Thursday - Sunday 504-524-9632

510 Toulouse St. NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

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TWO LOCATIONS 837 Canal Street (plus, full service nail salon) 212 Chartres Street 210.843.827

DECATUR

2

323 Chartres Street & 621 Toulouse Street

Jewelry & Accessories

ST. PHILIP

6

French Quarter

Woldenberg Riverfront Park

Mississippi River

Ursuline Convent

MOONWALK

Natchez Steamboat Gray Line Tour Departures

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Beauregar Keyes Ho

Jackson Brewery

Insecterium

Gallier House

Madame John's Legacy

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ROYAL Vieux Carré Police Station

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SPECI A L A DV ERT ISING SECT ION

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The French Quarter is one of the nation’s oldest residential communities.

Please treat this historic neighborhood with respect.

6

10

11

FREE 7

GIFT* WITH A $35 ROCK SHOP PURCHASE

125 BOURBON ST. | +1 504.529.5617

#HardRockCafe | hardrock.com ©2019 HARD ROCK INTERNATIONAL (USA), INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Expires 12/31/19 * terms and conditions apply

19-HRCSE-1546 WHERE MAGAZINE.indd 1 3/7/2019 11:16:33 AM

NEW ORLEANS Maps

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THE GUIDE

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W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

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Maps

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BC B on Canal, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 K CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 1 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5 EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 2 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 3 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 4 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 5 MC Marriott at the Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NC New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 NO NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 St OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 ia n e Av OR vOmni e Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 Sp ch lin A Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 Ro FrankOO t S PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 6 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 RF Royal Frenchman, 400 Esplanade Ave., 619-9660 J4 7 Street Direction RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 French Quarter RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 Jazzy Passes SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 1 day - $3 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 3 day - $9 8 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 31 day - 55 WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 Ride RTA buses and streetcars as WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 much as you’d like.

WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 K WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

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Transit Routes

Hotel

Riverfront - $1.25 St. Charles - $1.25 Magazine - $1.25 Canal St - $1.25 Loyola - $1.25 Rampart - $1.25

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THE GUIDE

C St

MM



WHERE NEXT THROUGH YOUR LENS

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PHILADELPHIA, Pennsylvania NEW ORLEANS, Louisiana WASHINGTON, D.C BOTTOM:

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PARTING SHOT

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64

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Double Plantation Tour OAK ALLEY

LAURA

Three Unique Stories of Plantation Life

Choose a TWO plantation combination Whitney & Laura | Laura & Oak Alley | Whitney & Oak Alley ENJOY OUR OTHER TOURS: SUPER CITY • SWAMP • AIRBOAT • KATRINA PLANTATION/BRUNCH/SWAMP • COCKTAIL GARDEN DISTRICT • FRENCH QUARTER CEMETERY & VOODOO • GHOSTS & SPIRITS • GROUPS • SEASONAL

Locally owned & touring New Orleans since 1924!

504-569-1401 | 800-233-2628 | GrayLineNewOrleans.com

steamboat

Last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River Three cruises a day from the French Quarter Dinner Jazz Cruise, Sunday Brunch & more Calliope Concerts & Engine Room Visits Inside and outside seating Live Jazz on all cruises 504-569-1401 • SteamboatNatchez.com