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T R AV E L E R S K N O W W H E R E â„¢

NEW ORLEANS JUL 2019

GET GOING!

SWEAT WORTHY

A SALUTE TO SUMMER

Explore lower Canal Street

3 great reasons to brave the heat

Where to chill on sweltering days

Hot shops and cool bar bites


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BELOW SEA LEVEL 4124 Tchoupitoulas St. New Orleans, LA 70115 www.PortOrleans.com @portorleansbrewingco.com

CRAFT BEER

FOOD

TOURS

OUTDOOR SPACE

EVENTS


CONTENTS

16 An insider guide to surviving the dog days of summer.

JUL 2019

THE GUIDE Dining 26 Shopping 38 Attractions 46 Entertainment 50 Nightlife 51

19

20 ON THE

Cool to-dos in the great outdoors.

Shop Till You Drop Four stores to explore, from Uptown to down.

Top-Shelf Pub Grub

COVER A shaved-ice snoball, a sure-fire way to beat the summer heat. ©CHAD VERZOSA/ SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

wheretraveler.com

6

Outward Bound

21

How to cure the summertime hangries? Belly up to the bar.

(FROM TOP) ©THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION; ©SHAWN FINK; ©COUTELIER; ©DENNY CULBERT/THE FRANKLIN

ESSENTIALS Editor’s Note 8 Ask the Expert 12 Calendar 14 One Block 22 Maps 59 Where Next 62 Parting Shot 64


THE

EDITOR’S NOTE 2019

JULY

DOUG BRANTLEY Editor, WhereTraveler ® New Orleans @whereneworleans

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H

ot town, summer in the city. Back of your neck getting dirty and gritty? Consider it part of our Southern charm. That blanket of humidity? Might as well wrap yourself in it. In salute to New Orleans’ signature swelter, in this issue we highlight cool ways to combat it—from shoveling snoballs and hanging in hotel lobbies to roaming museums and huddling in hip barrooms. Booming fi reworks along the riverfront, a whacky “bull” run and the New Orleans Museum of Art’s expanded sculpture garden, on the other hand, are designed to draw you outdoors. July’s hottest tickets: former First Lady Michelle Obama’s appearance at the 25th annual Essence Festival and The Rolling Stones’ return to the Superdome, where they performed in 1981 before a record-setting crowd. Whether hiding in or heading out, you’re sure to experience something hot—and cool—this month.

ACROSS THE WORLD WhereTraveler ® is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at www.wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Atlanta, Boston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/ Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Gold Coast, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/ Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg, Turin, Venice

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NEW ORLEANS

EDITORIAL & DESIGN EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Margaret Martin MANAGING EDITOR

Jennifer McKee EDITOR

Doug Brantley CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Jennifer Keller Vaz PHOTO EDITOR

Vincent Hobbs EXECUTIVE PRESIDENT

Donna W. Kessler CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Dennis Kelly

VICE PRESIDENT, OPERATIONS

Angela E. Allen

DIRECTOR OF DIGITAL OPERATIONS

Jamie Turner

DIRECTOR OF CIRCULATION

Scott Ferguson

CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER CUSTOM PUBLICATIONS

Haines Wilkerson

MANUFACTURING & PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING

Donald Horton

PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR

Karen Fralick

PUBLICATION SERVICES MANAGER

Mickey Kibler

IMAGE AND RETOUCH MANAGER

Erik Lewis

HOSPITALITY RELATIONS & DISTRIBUTION REGIONAL MANAGER

Amy Fenster Brown ADVERTISING JAMES G. ELLIOTT CO., INC. EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

Pat O’Donnell

GROUP PUBLISHER SOUTHEAST REGION

Mark Reid PUBLISHER

Lois Sutton, 504.522.6468, l.sutton@jgeco.com MARKET MANAGERS

Stephanie Cantrell, 504.522.6468, s.cantrell@jgeco.com Ashlea Kelly, 504.522.6468, a.kelly@jgeco.com Emails for MVP employees except contributors: firstname.lastname@morris.com

MVP | NEW ORLEANS 324 Chartres St, 2nd fl., New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 504.522.6468 MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS

CHAIRMAN

William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO

William S. Morris IV

WhereTraveler® magazine is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, www.morrismedianetwork.com. Where magazine and the logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. Where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited.

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

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EXPERT TIP: Catch the fireworks at Crescent Park.

you’re looking for that old New Orleans vibe, and Bar Tonique, for something more contemporary. If you want go where locals go, I love Chickie Wah Wah and Vaughan’s on a Thursday. Q: THE HOTEL IS ALSO HOME TO RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION. NAME ONE DISH DINERS HAVE TO TRY. A: Their signature dishes

are the crab beignets and Death by Gumbo, which is really decadent. But I particularly like the seared scallops.

JIM WIEGAND

To get to the heart of the city, you need to venture into other neighborhoods.

CONCIERGE AT THE ROYAL SONESTA HOTEL

YOU GUIDE GUESTS TO EXPERIENCE THE TRUE “ESSENCE” OF NEW ORLEANS? A: The French Quarter is

to the heart of the city, you need to venture into other neighborhoods.

definitely the jewel of the city. Treat it like a museum: see it, do it, photograph it. But to really get

Q: KELLY FIELDS OF WILLA JEAN BAKERY WAS RECENTLY NAMED “OUTSTANDING PASTRY CHEF” BY THE JAMES BEARD

to Croissant D’or in the Quarter. But I also like Bywater Bakery and New Orleans Cake Café in the Marigny. What better way to get to know a neighborhood than over breakfast? Q: RECOMMEND A COOL DAY TRIP. A: Head east on Highway

90, which takes you through the floodgates and into the marsh. Drive as far as your heart desires; you can go all the way down the Mississippi Gulf Coast. I also encourage people to take River Road to less-traveled destinations, such as St. Joseph Plantation.

Q: ESSENCE FEST TURNS 25 THIS MONTH. WHERE WOULD

FOUNDATION. WHAT OTHER BAKERIES SHOULD VISITORS SEEK OUT? A: I often refer people

©DOUG BRANTLEY

Q: THE ROYAL SONESTA HOSTS TALES OF THE COCKTAIL THIS YEAR. WHICH BARS DO YOU MOST OFTEN RECOMMEND? A: Arnaud’s French 75, if

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brunch

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breakfast burrito -tamale con huevos-pupusa benny breakfast burrito -tamale con huevos-pupusa benny cheat day churros steak & eggshuevos rancheros cheat day churros steak & eggshuevos rancheros rum french toast drink specials mangosamimosa rum french toast drink specials mangosamimosa bloody bloody mary mary -- live live music music -- patio patio dining dining -- margaritas margaritas

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W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M / N E W- O R L E A N S / L O C A L - E V E N T S

THE

CALENDAR

RUNNING OF THE BULLS JULY 13

TALES OF THE COCKTAIL

8 GREAT THINGS THIS MONTH Essence Festival July 4-7 Mary J. Blige, Nas, Missy Elliot, Pharrell Williams and H.E.R. are just a few of the big-name talents

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RUNNING OF THE BULLS

taking the stage at the 25th “party with a purpose” at the Mercedes-Benz Superdome. Did we mention Michelle Obama? www. essence.com Tipitina’s Free Fridays July 5, 12, 19, 26 Get the weekend party started with free performaces by Walter “Wolfman” Washington (July 5), John “Papa” Gros (July 12), the Honey Island Swamp Band (July 19) and the New Orleans Suspects (July 26). www.tipitinas. com Kirk Franklin July 13 The Grammy-winning

gospel great raises the roof at the Fillmore. www. fillmorenola.com The Rolling Stones July 14 Mick Jagger and company make up for May’s Jazzfest no-show by bringing their “No Filter” tour to the Superdome. www.mb superdome.com Tales of the Cocktail July 16-21 The “world’s premier cocktail festival” draws thousands of boozehounds to town for five days of nonstop partying. For a full lineup of related events, visit www.talesofthe cocktail.org.

Michael Bublé July 17 It’s a new dawn, it’s a new day for the Canadian crooner at the Smoothie King Center. www.smoothie kingcenter.com New Orleans Beatles Festival July 27 Take a stroll down “Abbey Road” (and memory lane) during the House of Blues’ salute to the Fab Four. www.hob.com Bush July 30 Gavin Rossdale and crew join forces with +Live+ at Champions Square. www. champions-square.com

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(LEFT) ©JENNIFER MITCHELL PHOTOGRAPHY; (RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK

THE LINEUP

The runners dressed in all white with red sashes, the stampeding “livestock,” the free-flowing sangria: If visitors didn’t know better, they might think they woke up in Pamplona, Spain. But this annual, early morning encinerro is decidedly New Orleans, with gorging bulls replaced by plastic bat-wielding members of the Big Easy Rollergirls and other female flat-track derby teams. The kookiness kicks off at 8 am along Convention Center Boulevard. www.nolabulls.com

WHAT’S HAPPENING


NEW ORLEANS

WHERE NOW

Take It Inside

How to survive summer in a subtropical city

W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION


Where Now

D

(TOP) ©INTERNATIONAL HOUSE HOTEL; (BOTTOM) ©THE ELIZA JANE; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION

uring February we couldn’t stop longing for summer. Now in the thick of it, we can’t seem to find enough shade. Such is life in “the northernmost Caribbean city.” Where to chill when the temperature soars? Follow us. LET’S ALL GO TO THE LOBBY Get out of your hotel room…and hang in the lobby. Not much happening where you’re staying? Head to The Eliza Jane, where you can spend an entire afternoon people watching and moving from one chic setting to the next (there are close to a dozen). The Press Room Lounge—a double parlor with leather couches and a cozy library feel—is ideal for curling up with a good read or a game of Scrabble. At the Ace Hotel, retro club chairs, deco lighting and dark tones impart a vintage train-station vibe. Settle in with a Sazerac at the front-and-center bar or a Cold Shot from adjacent Stumptown Coffee.

INTERNATIONAL HOUSE HOTEL

International House visitors will find the lobby outfitted in “summer dress,” with winter rugs replaced by sisal and furnishings draped in white slipcovers.

Check out the cool Banksy street art, while savoring rum-punched, summer-fruit granitas (think adult snoballs) from the hotel’s LOA bar.

THE ELIZA JANE

17


Where Now

MUSEUM MEANDERING The 19th-century Southern ritual of “summer dress” is also on display at the circa-1857 Gallier House, where chandeliers, gilded mirrors and beds are covered in bug-resistant netting and heavy draperies are packed away in favor of lacy window coverings. The Historic New Orleans Collection’s free French Quarter Galleries likewise offer insight into local customs through three centuries of rare art and artifacts. The tandem “Art of the City: Postmodern to Post-Katrina” exhibit views things from a contemporary perspective. Through July 10 at the recently reopened New Orleans African American Museum, you’ll find “Paper Monuments: Claiming Space,” a cool exhibit of works created in response to the heated topic of Confederate monument removals.

N.O. AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM

bon Aquarium. Included in general admission, the aptly named, five-story facility offers daily screenings of the new 3D feature “Hidden Pacific.” At the Broad Theater in Mid-City there are four screens, reclining seats, an in-house bar and concessions ranging from popcorn and Junior Mints to chicken adobo, sisig rice bowls and other Filipino fare. Traveling with in-

HAVE A BALL, Y’ALL Boutique bowling is the name of the game at Fulton Alley, where the weekday happy hour (4 to 7 pm) helps players loosen up before rolling out. You can dance in the lanes at Rock ’n’ Bowl, where live bands perform most nights of the week; Wednesdays are devoted to swing music, Thursdays to zydeco. Mystery-room junkies will find their fix at Escape My Room, while foodies will want to dig into the New Orleans Culinary and Hospitality Institute’s fun Enthusiast Courses. And what’s summer in New Orleans without a syrup-soaked snoball? At Hansen’s Sno-Bliz, (counted among “America’s Classics” by the James Beard Foundation), Ashley Hansen continues the sweet tradition her grandparents started during the 1930s.

FULTON ALLEY

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(TOP) ©PAPER MONUMENTS; (BOTTOM) ©FULTON ALLEY

STAR ATTRACTIONS Escape the heat by escaping reality for a few hours at the movies. For big family fun, head to the Entergy Giant Screen Theater at the Audu-

fants? During Thursday-morning BYOB (bring your own baby) screenings, sushi is the order. Old-school cool is the draw at the century-old Prytania Theatre, which mixes current releases with celluloid classics.


Where Now

Outward Bound The heat and humidity may make you consider cocooning away for the day, but you’ll find a variety of outdoor offerings worth breaking a sweat for.

(TOP) ©ARTS COUNCIL OF NEW ORLEANS; (BOTTOM RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM LEFT) ©RICHARD SEXTON/NOMA

FOURTH OF JULY The mighty Mississippi gets lit July 4 with the annual Dueling Barges Fireworks Show at 9 pm. Ranked among the top five displays in the nation by the American Pyrotechnic Association, the big blowout along the riverfront is preceded by the French Market’s free 4th Fest in Crescent Park (N. Peters and Marigny streets), which begins at 4:30 pm and features patriotic performances by the National WWII Museum’s Victory Belles, a throwback trio reminiscent of the Andrews Sisters. www. gofourthontheriver.com; www. frenchmarket.org

“UNFRAMED”

“UNFRAMED” MURALS Last month the Arts Council of New Orleans unveiled five, new large-scale murals in and around the city’s Arts District. Commissioned from both local and international artists, the project’s must-sees include MOMO’s 93-foot-tall abstract at

NOMA SCULPTURE GARDEN

925 Camp Street (shown) and Brandan Odums and the Young Artist Movement’s father/son depiction at 636 Baronne. www.artsneworleans.org/ unframed

NOMA SCULPTURE GARDEN The New Orleans Museum of Art’s outdoor sculpture garden has grow more than double in size since first taking root in 2003. With its recent expansion, the free attraction now features 90 works by 20th and 21st–century masters spread over 11 artfully landscaped acres. www.noma.org

DUELING BARGES FIREWORKS SHOW

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NEW ORLEANS

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: THE GOOD SHOP, COUTELIER, TUBBY & COO’S MIDCITY BOOK SHOP AND GLITTER BOX N.O.

We highly encourage warm weather street-wandering and, of course, shopping. New Orleans has so many neighborhoods with fantastic stores, making it easybreezy to tap into your inner (or conspicuous) consumer. No matter what part of the city you fancy, duck in and out of shops for a quick cool down and some local charm to cart home. BY LORIN GAUDIN

Coutelier

A chef-owned, knife and kitchen-gadget mecca just off the St. Charles streetcar line with walls of Japanese steel, cool food mags, tiny taco earrings and hand-carved wooden spoons you didn’t know you needed. You do. www.couteliernola.com

Glitter Box N.O.

For and by “womxn,” this store showcases artists, makers, workshops (headdress-making, embroidery, bedazzling) and strong support of social-justice groups. This is the place to get artsy wall pieces, creative jewelry, clothing and stationery. www.glitterboxno.com

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Tubby & Coo’s Mid-City Book Shop

Near City Park? Step into this new- and used-books and tabletop-gaming store. Shelves are filled with niche-genre fiction (sci-fi, fantasy, graphic novels), a stellar children’s book selection and board games. www.tubbyandcoos.com

The Good Shop

Fresh, new and full of “good” products from local makers. Owner Tippy Tippens curates everything with thought to community and the environment: candles, soaps, clothing, books, skin-care and tons of do-goodery. www.thegoodshopnola.com

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(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©THE GOOD SHOP; ©COUTELIER; ©TUBBY & COO’S; ©GLITTER BOX N.O.

W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

Shop Till You Drop

WHERE NOW


TOP-SHELF PUB GRUB ew Orleans’ July heat can be ferocious, like a sauna and a steam room had a baby. But this is a city prepared for the swelter with plenty of cool ways to hydrate and cure the hangries. Whatever your pleasure—chugging a tall iced tea, slurping some noodles, tossing back a chilly shot of tequila or devouring frites—the newest places to chill are close at hand. Pop into one of these dope bars, grab a seat, eat, quaff and cool your heels. BY LORIN GAUDIN

BARREL PROOF

Pair a Caffe Flip (a boozy riff on an egg cream) with snazzy snacks like frites and aioli at happy hour, or go full-ham on a fat farmhouse cheddar and roasted tomato-topped Franklin Burger, spiced Brussels sprouts and luscious lemon pie. www. thefranklinnola.com

Dark and moody best describes the decor, though the crowd trends light and fun and the bar team is stellar. From the kitchen there’s a rotating crew of pop-ups covering a lot of flavor. Recently, Matchbook Kitchen (inspired Thai and Latin), Thali Llama (Indian), Little Kitchen (tacos) and Daddy Hot Bird (hot fried chicken) have been holding delicious court. www.barrelproof nola.com

JEWEL OF THE SOUTH Billed as a “tavern,” this charmer, run by two of the best in the local bar biz, rocks cocktail classics (and more) to go with a clever,globespanning menu of pâté, bao, gumbo, gnocco fritto and calas. www.jewelnola.com

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: A BARREL PROOF MARGARITA, FRESH MOZZARELLA WITH HERBS FROM JEWEL OF THE SOUTH AND THE FRANKLIN BURGER

A

A

A

A

N

THE FRANKLIN

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F O R M O R E T H I N G S T O D O O N C A N A L S T R E E T, V I S I T W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

ONE BLOCK FIND THE BEST ON

CANAL STREET

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: AUDUBON AQUARIUM, THE GRILL ROOM, CANAL PLACE AND THE CANAL STREETCAR

SEE

PLAY

EAT

SHOP

Bug out at the Audubon Insectarium in the circa-1860 U.S. Custom House. Hop on the Canal streetcar or catch the Algiers Ferry, which has been crossing the river since 1827.

At the other end of the stretch, the Audubon Aquarium encourages visitors to get hands-on with stingrays and to dive deep into other cool exhibits. Try your luck at Harrah’s then take in a concert at its new Fillmore music club.

Hit the jackpot? Beef up at Morton’s steakhouse or burn a few calories (and some big bucks) by walking a couple of blocks further to ritzy Restaurant August or the Windsor Court Hotel’s equally elegant Grill Room.

Louis Vuitton, MCM, Tiffany & Co. and Tory Burch are just a few of the many top-tier retailers found at the tony Shops at Canal Place. The Outlet Collection at Riverwalk, within easy walking distance, offers 70-plus more.

 Audubon Butterfly Garden and Insectarium

 Audubon Aquarium

 Morton’s

423 Canal St., 504.581.4629, www.auduboninstitute.org

1 Canal St., 504.581.4629, www.auduboninstitute.org

 Canal Streetcar

 Harrah’s Casino

Canal and Convention Center Blvd., 504.248.3900, www.norta.com

8 Canal St., 504.533.6000, www.harrahsneworleans.com

301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777, www.restaurantaugust.com

 Algiers Ferry

 The Fillmore

 The Grill Room

Canal at the Mississippi Riverfront, 504.248.3900, www.norta.com

6 Canal St., 504.881.1555, www.fillmorenola.com

300 Gravier St., 504.522.1994, www.grillroomneworleans.com

365 Canal St., 504.566.0221, www.mortons.com

 The Shops at Canal Place

 Restaurant August

333 Canal St., 504.522.9200, www.canalplacestyle.com

 The Outlet Collection at Riverwalk

500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555, www.riverwalkneworleans.com

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) ©AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE; ©WINDSOR COURT HOTEL; ©THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE; ©GTS PRODUCTIONS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

BETWEEN S. PETERS AND THE RIVERFRONT

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THE

GUIDE OUR

DOGGONE GOOD

Crawfish sausage topped with crawfish étouffée; alligator sausage with andouille sauce: At Dat Dog (p. 34) the all-American classic gets an only-in-New Orleans twist.

FAVORITES

LOOK FOR our featured advertisers throughout the Guide.

©DAT DOG


DINING Central Business/ Warehouse District THE AMERICAN SECTOR American A nostalgic homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as Victory Garden salads and Frito pie. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6; www.ww2eats.com AUCTION HOUSE MARKET Eclectic This bright, modern food hall offers a variety of vendors and flavors, from fresh local seafood to Indian, Egyptian and Hawaiianinspired cuisines. B, L, D (daily). 801 Magazine St., 504.372.4321. Map 3, C6; www.auctionhousemarket.com

D IN IN G

BRIQUETTE Seafood Contemporary coastal is the catch at this sprawling space. Follow the caramalized sea scallops with lump crab bisque, then dive into Louisiana redfish with crawfish relish. D (nightly). 701 S. Peters St., 504.302.7496. Map 3, C6; www.briquette-nola.com CAFÉ CARMO International This island-inspired space pops out some wild—and wildly delicious— dishes, such as the zany Rico sandwich (a grilled plantain patty topped with pulled pork) and shrimp-filled, black-eyed pea fritters. Veggie and vegan options are also featured. B, L (M-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). 527 Julia St., 504.875.4132. Map 3, C6; www.cafecarmo.com CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks Forget the standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. D (nightly). 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5; www.chophousenola.com COCHON Louisiana Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald

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Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. L, D (daily). 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; www.cochonrestaurant.com COMPANY BURGER American Adam Biderman’s award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320. Map 1, D3; www.thecompany burger.com COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean A native of St. Lucia, chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes with pineapple tartar sauce and curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi. L, (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6; www.comperelapin.com COPPER VINE American Along with 30 varietals on tap and an additional 20 by the glass, this easygoing “wine pub” serves up caviar-topped oysters, a wide variety of flatbreads and heartier fare, such as skirt steak with duck fat fries. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1001 Poydras St., 504.208.9535. Map 3, C4. www.coppervinewine.com COUVANT French A slick, contemporary French bistro inside the Eliza Jane hotel. Standouts include English peas with duck egg and lardons, hanger steak Bordelaise and moules frites. B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). 315 Magazine St., 504.324.5400. Map 3, D5; www.couvant.com THE DAILY BEET Vegetarian Light, healthy eats and cold-pressed juices are the draw at this industrial-chic café. Tuck into a shaved Brussels sprouts salad or an Orbit Bowl of warm wild rice, avocado, runny egg, kimchi and pickled veg. B, L, D (daily). 1000 Girod St., 504.605.4413. Map 3, B4; www.thedailybeet nola.com

DOMENICA Italian Out-of-the-norm antipasta (roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as lasagne Bolonese. Mangia, mangia! L, D (daily). 123 Baronne St., 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3; www. domenicarestaurant.com EMERIL’S Louisiana Emeril Lagasse’s flagship sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum and more. L (M-F), D (nightly). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; www.emerils.com ESPIRITU Mexican Mezcal and Mexican food is the get at this tuckedaway spot. Start with creamy guacamole topped with dried grasshoppers; end with shots of smoky mescal and cinnamon-sugar-dusted churros. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 520 Capdeville St., 504.267.4975. Map 3, C5; www.espiritunola.com GIANNA Italian James Beard Awardwinning chef Rebecca Wilcomb pays tribute to her grandmother with homey fare, such as creamy polenta with lamb-sausage gravy, tortellini in bordo and veal saltimbocca. 700 Magazine St, 504.399.0816. Map 3, C6; www.gianna restaurant.com HERBSAINT French One of the city’s premier fine dining spots. The award-winning menu changes fequently, with entrées such as confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5; www.herbsaint.com JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican Squash blossom tacos, pig ear chilaquiles, octopus toastadas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare. Celebrity chef Aarón Sánchez’s hot spot puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. L, D (daily). 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4;

www.johnnysanchez restaurant.com JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian At this casual Ace Hotel eatery snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy, and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. B (M-F); L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5; www.josephineestelle.com LÜKE International A throwback to Old World New Orleans brasseries. German specialties, such as pork schnitzel, meld with classic French bistro fare and fresh Louisiana seafood. B, L, D (daily). 333 St. Charles Ave. (in the Hilton St. Charles hotel), 504.378.2840. Map 3, D4 ; www.lukeneworleans.com MAYPOP Vietnamese Asian-fusion food in a bright, open space. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345.Map 3, B4 ; www.maypoprestaurant.com MERIL International Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef ’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. L, D (daily). 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6; www.emerils.com OTRA VEZ Mexican Modern Mexican is the focus at this Southern offshoot of Brooklyn’s Alta Calidad. Yuca tater tots, fried tempura shrimp tacos, crawfish chile rellenos—si! L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1001 Julia St., 504.354.8194. Map 3, B4; www.otraveznola.com PÊCHE Seafood The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St.,

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Dining

504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; www.pecherestaurant.com RED GRAVY Italian This cozy brunch bistro offers traditional Italian dishes and not-so-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Open W-M. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5; www.redgravycafe.com RESTAURANT AUGUST French Fine dining at its finest. The surroundings are elegant, and the food is spectacular, combining European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. L (MF), D (nightly); Su brunch. 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5; www.restaurant august.com

SEAWORTHY Seafood This offshoot of New York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, East and West coasts and other sustainably sourced seafood. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5; www.seaworthy nola.com ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY Deli The St. James is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-the-line delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. L (MSa), D (Th-Sa); Br (Su). 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485. Map 3, C6; 5004 Prytania St., 504.899.4737. Map 1, D4; www.stjamescheese.com TSUNAMI Sushi At this sprawling sushi emporium the usual sushi suspects sit menu-side with funky items like calamari “fries.” Big

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RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE Steaks Founded in 1965, this Crescent City classic, famed for its superb, sizzling steaks and seafood, now has locations around the world. L, D (daily). 525 Fulton St., 504.587.7099. Map 3, D6; www.ruthschris.com


appetites will want to hit the Sumo Ribeye. L, D (M-Sa). 601 Poydras St., 504.608.3474. Map 3, C5; www.serving sushi.com WILLA JEAN BAKERY Contemporary Pastry chef Kelly Fields, known for her beautiful baked goods, shows off her savory side as well in dishes such as braised lamb pasta with mint pesto. B, L (MF); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4; www.willajean.com

Central City CENTRAL CITY BBQ Barbecue Stellar barbecue and kicked-up sides make this sprawling smokehouse a popular destination. L, D (daily). 1201 S. Rampart St., 504.558.4276. Map 1, D3; www.centralcitybbq.com

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MAÎS AREPAS Latin An upscale CreoleColombian restaurant that puts overstuffed, filled corn pockets (arepas) front and center. L (TuSa), D (Tu-Su). 1200 Carondelet St., 504.523.6247. Map 3, A5 TOUPS SOUTH Southern Chef Isaac Toups creates museum-quality cuisine at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery. Biscuits with crab fat butter, goat tamales and fried black-eyed pea salad offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. L, D (M, W-Sa); Br (Su). 1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3; www.toupssouth.com

Fair winds and following seas.

French Quarter ANTOINE’S Creole Established in 1840, Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure with rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4; www.antoines.com ARNAUD’S Creole In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s

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Wild-caught oysters and fresh seafood fare. Ace Hotel New Orleans 630 Carondelet St @seaworthynola

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BAYONA American Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3; www.bayona.com

WHEN YOU SEE LES CLEFS D’OR KEYS. PLAY. EXPLORE. FEAST. ACCOMPLISH. No one knows more or can do more for you than Les Clefs d’Or Concierges. Search beyond the internet, and discover for yourself why anything is possible with Les Clefs d’Or Concierges.

BOURBON HOUSE Seafood A standout addition to Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes share menu space with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp. B, L, D (daily). 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4; www.bourbonhouse.com

BROUSSARD’S Creole Broussard’s, established in 1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots. The kitchen turns out long-popular classics, such as turtle soup and bronzed redfish with lump crab and mirliton slaw. Br, D (daily). 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4; www.broussards.com

We’ve combined five tours into ONE EXCITING CITY TOUR FRENCH QUARTER • KATRINA RECOVERY • HITORIC CHEMETERIES GARDEN DISTRICT • NEW ORLEANS ARCHITECTURE

CAFÉ AMELIE Louisiana The perfect spot for a leisurely outdoor lunch or romantic dinner. Try the satsuma and pepper-glazed shrimp or a seasonal cocktail. L, D (WSu); Br (Sa-Su). 912 Royal St., 504.412.8965. Map 3, H4; www.cafeamelie.com

CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a must-do. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. Open 24h (daily). 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; www.cafedumonde.com CANE & TABLE Cuban This rum-centric restaurant provides a taste of the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5; www.caneandtablenola.com CENTRAL GROCERY Deli This Italian deli-grocery is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. L (daily). 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5; www.centralgrocery.com COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu of Creole and Cajun cuisine. Br, D (daily). 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4; www.courtoftwosisters.com CROISSANT D’OR PATISSERIE Bakery This venerable pastry shop produces a stunning array of buttery croissants, fresh fruit danishes and any number of dreamy creations devised from storehouses of chocolate, cream and magic. Savory dishes are also available, along with a variety of coffees. B, L (W-M).

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BRENNAN’S Creole Under the helm of executive chef Slade Rushing, this legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4; www.brennansneworleans.com

CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun classics. B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554. Map 3, G5; www.cafebeignet.com

Dining

ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE

continues a tradition begun in 1918. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of the many famous dishes. D (daily); jazz brunch (Su). 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; www.arnauds.com


617 Ursuline Ave., 504.524.4663. Map 3, H4 CURIO American Curious what “American cuisine with Creole soul” tastes like? Think grit tots with roasted red pepper coulis, black-eyed pea-and-duck gumbo and “pastrami shrimp” Reubens. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 301 Royal St., 504.717.4198. Map 3, F4; www.curionola.com DEANIE’S Seafood For years locals have driven to the lakefront Deanie’s for groaning boards of freshly fried seafood and grilled fish. Its French Quarter location offers the same great menu in posher surroundings. L, D (daily). 841 Iberville St., 504.581.1316. Map 3, E4; L, D (Tu-Su) 1713 Lake Ave., Metairie, 504.831.4141. Map 1, C2; www.deanies.com

CANE & TABLE 1 1 1 3 D E C AT U R S T R E E T F r e n c h Q u a r t e r, N e w O r l e a n s

Cane & Table celebrates tropical classic cocktails and Caribbean cuisine with influences from the flavors and heritage of New Orleans.

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DIAN XIN Chinese Dim sum craving? Satisfy it here. Steamed pork dumplings, crab-and-crawfish bao, salt-and-pepper squid; the menu goes on and on. L (Su), D (Tu-Su). 504.266.2828. Map 3, I4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks An upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces—try the barbecued rib-eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters. D (nightly). 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4; www.dickiebrennanssteak house.com DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks A stunning steakhouse and butcher shop with superior quality dry-aged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. L (F), D (nightly). 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4; www.dorismetropolitan.com EL GATO NEGRO Mexican Some the most authentic south-of-the-border fare in the city. The ingredients are fresh, the tortillas are made to order and the hand-squeezed maragaritas made with orange, tangerine and lime are a must. L, D (daily). 81 French Market

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Named one of Esquire’s best bars in America and a James Beard Foundation Award semifinalist of Outstanding Bar Program, Cane & Table is a culinary and cocktail gem that offers reprieve in the iconic and bustling New Orleans’ French Quarter. Cane & Table is elevated revelry you don’t want to miss on a trip to New Orleans.

Sunday-Thursday DINNER FROM 5PM-11PM

HOURS

Friday & Saturday DINNER FROM 5PM-MIDNIGHT

RESERVATIONS (504) 581-1112

caneandtablenola.com

Saturday & Sunday BRUNCH FROM 10:30AM-3PM

HAPPY HOUR Monday - Friday, 3PM UNTIL 6PM

@caneandtable

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Place, 504.525.9752. www. elgatonegronola.com Map 3, I5; 800 S. Peters St., 504.309.8864. Map 3, C7; www.elgatonegro nola.com FRENCH TOAST Breakfast Breakfast is the focus of this popular French Quarter spot. There are sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta). B, L (daily). 1035 Decatur St., 504.300.5518. Map 3, H5; www.toastnew orleans.com

Contemporary Coastal Cuisine 701 S. Peters St. 504-302-7496 www.briquette-nola.com Now Serving Lunch

GALATOIRE’S Creole Since 1905, Galatoire’s has been a gravity center of New Orleans. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. L, D (Tu-Su). 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4; www.galatoires.com GREEN GODDESS Eclectic Chef Paul Artigues creates adventurous dishes in the tiny kitchen of this intimate gem. Possibly the only place in town you’ll find Manchegotruffle grits sharing menu space with grilled lemongrass tofu po’boys. L, D (W-Su). 307 Exchange Place, 504.301.3347. Map 3, E4; www.greengoddessrestaurant.com

Enjoy an afternoon drink on our courtyard 510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

GRILL ROOM Contemporary The fine dining room at the Windsor Court Hotel is a favorite of both locals and visitors. Refined yet relaxed, the Grill Room features innovative American cuisine that’s strong on Southern influences and local ingredients. B, D (daily), L (M-F); jazz Br (Sa-Su). 300 Gravier St.,

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THE GUIDE

Book reservations through Open Table.

FRENCH TRUCK COFFEE Coffee Named for the vintage Citroën vehicles it uses for deliveries to local restaurants and grocers, French Truck established a loyal following as the city’s first micro-roaster. Fine coffees and killer cold brews dominate at its cool cafés. Open daily. 221 Chartres St., 504.298.1115. Map 3, F4; 1200 Magazine St., 504.298.1115. Map 3, A7; www.french truckcoffee.com


504.522.1994. Map 3, D6; www.windsorcourthotel.com GW FINS Seafood Chef Tenney Flynn has taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. D (nightly). 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4; www.gwfins.com HARD ROCK CAFÉ American This popular chain, filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. L, D (daily). 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4; www.hardrockcafe.com

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IRENE’S CUISINE Italian Irene’s is all about garlic, olive oil and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. Think of the long wait (no reservations) as part of the charm. D (M-Sa). 529 Bienville St., 504.529.8811. Map 3, F5; www.irenesnola.com ITALIAN BARREL Italian The focus here is on fine, Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso buco-topped polenta and top-notch tiramisu. L, D (daily). 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5; www.theitalianbarrel.com JEWEL OF THE SOUTH Contemporary This aptly named gem takes its cue from a 19th-century restaurant of the same name, with retro cocktails (brandy crustas, Roffigacs) and an ever-changing, seasonal menu of late-night bites. D (nightly). 1026 St. Louis St., 504.265.8816. Map 3, F3; www.jewelnola.com JUSTINE French Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is both classic and contemporary in design, but the menu is fullon French: steak tartar, tuna

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Niçoise salad, moules frites. L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533. Map 3, E4; www.justinenola.com K-PAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana Chef-personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience. His restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, such as bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. D (M-Sa). 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530.Map 3, F4; www.kpauls.com KILLER POBOYS Contemporary This tiny holein-the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw. B, L, D (W-M). 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745.Map 3, F4; www.killerpoboys.com KRYSTAL American Since 1932 Krystal has been satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers. 24h (daily). 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4; www. krystal.com LATITUDE 29 Eclectic World-renowned tiki guru Jeff “Beachbum” Berry’s seriously cool, new-school tiki bar and restaurant recalls the spirit of Trader Vic’s. Classic tiki cocktails and original concoctions are paired with “PolynAsian” fare, such as sticky ribs. L (F-Sa), D (daily). 321 N. Peters St., 504.609.3811. Map 3, F5; www.latitude29 nola.com LONGWAY TAVERN Eclectic A proper gastropub with a comfy chic interior, solid familiar cocktails and smart, sexy food. The pork belly home fries, fried calamari and hefty steak sandwiches will make you linger. L (F-Su), D (nightly). 719 Toulouse St., 504.962.9696. Map 3, G4; www.longway tavern.com MANOLITO Cuban A taste of Cuba in the heart of the French Quarter.

Pressed Cuban sandwiches, tender ropa vieja and shrimp ceviche are top food picks. Pair with a martini, thrown Spanish-Cuban style. L (W-Su); D (nightly). 508 Dumaine St., 504.603.2740. Map 3, H4; www.manolitonola.com MORTON’S Steaks With its USDA primeaged beef, succulent seafood and infinite wine selection, this renowned steakhouse is the perfect destination for an unparalleled dining experience. D (nightly). 365 Canal St., 504.566.0221. Map 3, E5; www. mortons.com MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Musttries include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce. L (M-Sa), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Su). 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4; www.mrbsbistro.com NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas. L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; www.napoleonhouse.com NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, char-grilled oysters and a raw bar. L, D (daily). 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 ; www.neworleans creolecookery.com NINE ROSES CAFÉ Vietnamese The Westbank Vietnamese food haven now offers a smaller French Quarter location serving such signature dishes as pho, banh mi sandwiches, rice plates, noodle bowls and springrolls. L, D (MSa). 620 Conti St., 504.324.9450. Map 3, F4

NOLA American Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter bistro’s small plates-focused menu is perfect for table-sampling its 40-plus dishes. Standouts include the hot frog legs, stuffed chicken wings and oyster-and-brie pot pie. L, D (daily). 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5; www.emerils.com OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana At former Saint Deuce McAllister’s eatery, diners score New Orleans classics (such as soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. B, L, D (daily). 132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4; www.olesaint.com PALACE CAFÉ Creole Part of the Brennan restaurant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake and andouille-crusted Gulf fish. B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4; www.palacecafe.com PELICAN CLUB Louisiana Chef-owner Richard Hughes blends indigenous ingredients with international flavors. The seared tuna with Gulf shrimp is excellent, as is the roasted baby lamb rack. Try the seafood martini appetizer. D (daily). 312 Exchange Alley, 504.523.1504. Map 3, E4; www.pelicanclub.com RED FISH GRILL Seafood Grilled fish too plain? Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, double-chocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. L, D (daily). 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4; www.redfish grill.com RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana Chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appoint-

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Dining

ed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. L (F), D (nightly); Br (Su). 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4; www.revolutionnola.com SOBOU Contemporary The focus at this “south of Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and an amazing selection of Louisiana street food-inspired small plates. B (daily), L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4; www.sobounola.com

SYLVAIN Contemporary Elegant chandeliers dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub just off Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as Chick Syl-vain sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4; www.sylvain nola.com TABLEAU Creole Housed in historic Le Petit Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes. L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (daily). 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4; www.tableaufrench quarter.com

A new spirited sanctuary for cocktails, French fare and easy elegance. Located at Maison de la Luz and in partnership with Parisian group Quixotic Projects. 544 Carondelet Street

barmarilou.com

@barmarilou

TUJAGUE’S Creole Open since 1856, Tujague’s (“two-jacks”) ranks as one of the city’s oldest eateries. The restaurant serves a traditional Creole prix fixe menu (shrimp remoulade and beef brisket to start, followed by a choice of entrée and pecan

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THE GUIDE

STANLEY Eclectic Retro soda fountain ambiance meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the eggs Benedict po’ boy, while Reuben sandwiches, burgers and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. B, L, D (daily). 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4; www.stanleyrestaurant.com


pie), along with contemporary a la carte offerings. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 823 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, H5; www.tujaguesrestaurant.com

Garden District/ Lower Garden District ATCHAFALAYA Creole Look for the giant castiron skillet outside of this upscale neighborhood eatery and menu standouts such as Beets in a Cloud and turtle-and-alligator gumbo. D (nightly); Br (Th-M). 901 Louisiana Ave., 504.891.9626. Map 1, D4; www. atchafalayarestaurant.com

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COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole This beloved turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers. Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; www.commanderspalace.com COQUETTE French What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have fried chicken. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4; www.coquettenola.com DISTRICT Coffee Donuts. Sliders. Brew. That’s the way District bills itself, and that’s exactly what you’ll find at this kicked-up coffee shop: craft-style donuts with rotating flavors, savory sliders and nitro-brewed coffee on tap. B, L, D (daily). 2209 Magazine St., 504.570.6945. Map 1, D4; www.donutsand sliders.com EMERIL’S DELMONICO Creole Located on the St. Charles streetcar line, this elegant circa-1895 restaurant now serves chef Emeril Lagasse’s modern takes on Creole classics. D (nightly). 1300 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.4937. Map 1, D3; www.emerils.com

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GRIS-GRIS Louisiana Chef Eric Cook (American Sector, Commander’s Palace) finally has a place of his own, where he whips up elevated New Orleans standards, such as oyster-and-caviar po’ boys and seafood-stuffed crab. L, D (daily). 1800 Magazine St., 504.272.0241. Map 3, D4; www.grisgrisnola.com JACK ROSE Contemporary This bold, contemporary space turns out playful versions of familiar foods. Think squid-ink pasta with shrimp in a cayenne-kicked barbecue sauce. Cool cocktails; gorgeous desserts. L (F), D (WSu); Br (Su). 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D4; www.jackroserestaurant.com MOLLY’S RISE & SHINE Breakfast The sandwich gurus behind Turkey and the Wolf also operate this equally funky breakfast spot. Collard greens and grits, sweet potato burritos, deviled egg tostadas—expect the unexpected. B (W-M). 2368 Magazine St., 504.302.1896. Map 1, D4; www.mollysriseand shine.com SUCRÉ Dessert This chic spot is worth a visit for the décor alone. But while you’re there, might as well try some of the elegant chocolates, house-made gelato and must-have macarons. Open daily. 3025 Magazine St., 504.520.8311. Map 1, D4; 622 Conti St., 504.267.7098. Map 3, F4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.834.2299. Map 1, C2; www.shopsucre.com TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, chicken fried steak. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. L (W-M). 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4; www.turkeyandthe wolf.com WARBUCKS Contemporary Fine-dining chef Todd Pulsinelli shows off his casual side, playfully riffing

on classics: crab-fat coleslaw, oxtail-stuffed tatar tots, shortrib hand pies, muffuletta franks and more deliciously fun fare. L, D (daily). 3218 Magazine St., 504.309.5260. Map 1, D4; www.warbucksnola.com

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a restaurant. Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L, D (daily). 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3; www.bacchanal wine.com BYWATER AMERICAN BISTRO American Along with pastries and cakes, this sweet neighborhood spot makes happiness happen with an easygoing menu of sandwiches, soups, salads and breakfast go-cups. B, L (daily). 3624 Dauphine St., 504.366.3336. Map 1, E3; www.bywaterbakery.com

BYWATER BAKERY Bakery The menu at this casual neighborhood spot focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. Farro risotto with mushrooms and minted breadcrumbs, fried oysters with oyster gravy; try the rabbit curry. D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827. Map 1, E3; www. bywateramericanbistro.com THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana Known for its swimming pool, this Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crabmeat beignets, clams and chorizo), salads or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; www. thecountryclubneworleans.com DAT DOG American Here, the ho-hum hot dog stand gets glammed up with imported wieners and sausages tucked into sweet sourdough rolls. Toppings range from standard to sublime. Great beer selection. L, D (daily). 601

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Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

ELYSIAN BAR Eclectic Tucked inside the Peter and Paul Hotel, this sunny yellow dining room feels all warm and cozy, like a relative’s kitchen The menu follows suit, with homey fare such as whipped ricotta with preserved mushrooms on flatbread or chicken confit with white beans and roasted apples. L, D (daily). 2317 Burgundy St., 504.356.6768. Map 1, E3; www.theelysianbar.com THE FRANKLIN Contemporary This handsome, art-filled space serves a mean martini and clever spins on long-popular dishes, such as beef tartar with Vietnamese pho garnishes. D (M-Sa). 2600 Dauphine St., 504.267.0640. Map 1, E3; www.thefranklin nola.com THE JOINT Barbecue This funky Bywater fave is slim on frills but big on slow-cooked barbecue (pulled pork, beef brisket, juicy ribs) and generous sides. L, D (M-Sa). 701 Mazant St., 504.949.3232. Map 1, E3; www.always smokin.com NEW ORLEANS CAKE CAFÉ & BAKERY Bakery Steven “the Cake Man” Himelfarb offers breakfast and lunch at his charming Bywater café, but it’s cake that’s the beloved baker’s calling card. B, L (W-M). 2440 Chartres St., 504.943.0010. Map 1, E3; www.nolacakes.com NOLA CANTINA Mexican Tacos, tacos and more tacos, filled with everything

PALADAR 511 Contemporary California cooking New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5; www.paladar511.com PIZZA DELICIOUS Italian This pop-up pizzeria grew so popular that it now has its own brick-and-mortar space. New York-style pies with an ever-changing array of market-fresh toppings are offered whole or by the slice. L, D (TuSu). 617 Piety St., 504.676.8482. Map 1, E3; www.pizzadelicious.com ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic Dating to 1875, this long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character and 24 steel columns. The stunning space features 11 food vendors, along with a bar. L, D (daily). 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813.Map 1, E3; www.strochmarket.com

Mid-City ANGELO BROCATO’S Bakery This century-old ice cream parlor and confectionery offers a nostalgic slice of Old World Sicily, with some of the best Italian pastries and ice creams this side of Palermo. Open Tu-Su. 214 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.486.0078. Map 1, D2 ; www. angelobrocatoicecream.com BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. If the barbecued pork egg rolls make a menu appearance, get them. L, D, (Tu-Su). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3; www.blueoakbbq.com

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THE GUIDE

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

ELIZABETH’S American “Real food done real good” is the motto at this homey neighborhood spot, which draws loyal locals as well as national foodies. Two words to remember: praline bacon. B, L (M-F), D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 601 Gallier St., 504.944.9272. Map 1, E3; www.elizabeths restaurantnola.com

from fried oysters to cauliflower. Other highlights include Ecuadorian-style shrimp ceviche and top-shelf margaritas. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 437 Esplanade Ave., 504.266.2848. Map 3, J5; www.nolacantina.com

Dining

Frenchmen St., 504.309.3362. Map 3, J5; 3336 Magazine St., 504.868.4391. Map 1, D4; 5030 Freret St., 504.899.6883. Map 1, D3; www.datdog nola.com


DOOKY CHASE Creole One of the oldest African-American restaurants in the nation. The late, legendary chef Leah Chase, “the Queen of Creole Cuisine,” built a large and loyal following with classic dishes, such as shrimp lima beans and crispyyet-tender fried chicken. (TuF), D (F). 2301 Orleans Ave., 504.821.0600. Map 1, D3; www. dookychaserestaurant.com

ZASU Seafood Award-winning chef Sue Zemanick goes coastal at her intimate, Mid-City space: grilled baby octopus, citrus-poached shrimp, saltine-crusted grouper with braised greens and crawfish. Word of advice: Do not skip dessert. D (M-Sa). 127 N. Carrollton Avt., 504.267.3233. Map 1, D2; www.zasunola.com

PARKWAY BAKERY & TAVERN Louisiana The menu here is long but simple: po’boys and more po’boys. Your choices for stuffings: roast beef, oyster, shrimp, catfish and, of course, alligator sausage—and that’s just the top of the list. L, D (W-M). 538 Hagan Ave., 504.482.3047. Map 1, D2; www.parkwaypoorboys.com

Uptown

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PIECE OF MEAT Deli The menu at this petit butcher shop and restaurant is loaded with tempting options: cheese-and-boudin eggrolls, brisket sandwiches, tender ribs. L (Th-Tu), D (Th-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 3301 Bienville St., 504.372.2289. Map 1, D3; www.pieceofmeat butcher.com RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana Veteran restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000.Map 1, D2; www.ralphsonthepark.com 1000 FIGS Mediterranean Classic falafel sandwiches and plates are joined by seared squid salads, baba ghanouj, lamb and more. L, D (Tu-Sa). 3141 Ponce de Leon St., 504.301.0848. Map 1, D2; www.1000figs.com TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. L, D (TuSa); Br (Su). 845 Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999.Map 1, D3; www.toupsmeatery.com

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AVO Italian Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragout. D (M-Sa); Br (Sa-Su) 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4; www.restaurantavo.com BOUCHERIE Southern Looking for a place where you can get in and out for under $25? Chef/owner Nathanial Zimet’s culinary creations are as delicious as their prices. L (Tu-Sa); D (MSa); Br (Su). 8115 Jeannette St., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3; www.boucherie-nola.com

Bungalow’s

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BRIGTSEN’S Creole A protegé of Paul Prudhomme, chef Frank Brigtsen serves up food that is rooted in Louisiana tradition, but moves into a sphere of its own with his genius for combining tastes and ingredients. D (Tu-Sa). 723 Dante St., 504.861.7610. Map 1, C3; www.brigtsens.com CARROLLTON MARKET Louisiana Chef Jason Goodenough’s market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as New Orleans-style cassoulet. No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough—flash-fried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and béarnaise. D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928. Map 1, C3; www.carrollton market.com

F E AT U RE D ART I ST: J OAN S L I F KA

ESTATE & CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELRY NEW ORLEANS & VINTAGE CHARMS 534 Royal St. • (504) 522-1305 www.lapetitfleur.com

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Dining

CAVAN Southern This Victorian home’s “beautiful deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Nathan Richard’s modern Southern cuisine. Start with the boudin tater tots before hopping on the chicken fried rabbit. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4; www.cavannola.com COSTERA Spanish The Spanish-inspired menu encourages plate-sharing with a wide range of tapas (papas bravas, blistered peppers, grilled octopus), along with larger entrees such as seafood paella. L, D (W-M). 4938 Prytania St., 504.302.2332. Map 1, D4 ; www.costera restaurant.com

Elegant Northern Italian Cuisine in a Quaint French Quarter Setting

430 Barracks Street (near the Historic French Market)

www.italianbarrel.com Reservations: 504.569.0198 | Catering or Private Parties: 504.982.6969 Open: Sunday - �ursday 11am - 10pm; Friday - Saturday 11am - 11pm Italian Breakfast: Monday - Friday 8am -11am; Saturday & Sunday 9am - 12pm

Reservations Recommended

DTB Cajun Short for “down the bayou,” DTB pays homage to chef Carl Schaubhut’s Cajun country roots with mod twists on Louisiana coastal cuisine. Think gumbo with crab fat potato salad and crispy duck confit with charred cabbage and sweet potatoes. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889. Map 1, C3; www.dtbnola.com HANSEN’S SNO-BLIZ Dessert Since 1934 locals have been lining up for Hansen’s signature snoballs. Topped with made-from-scratch syrups, the shaved-ice treats are a summer must-have. 4801 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.891.9788. Map 1, D4; www.snobliz.com LA BOULANGERIE Bakery This French bakery doles out savory and sweet artisanal goods to regulars who are loyal verging on addicted. Almond or ham-and-cheese croissants make light snacks,

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DEL FUEGO Mexican Chef David Wright’s ramped-up taqueria is based on recipes and techniques gathered during travels to Mexico. Housemade tortillas wrap around duck enchiladas with Oaxacan mole, while tostadas are topped with smoked Gulf fish. L, D (M-Sa). 4518 Magazine St., 504.309.5797. Map 1, D4; www.delfuego taqueria.com


while loaves baked with blue cheese or olives are all good enough to devour on their own. $ B, L (M-Sa). 4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777. Map 1, D4; www.laboulangerienola.com PASCAL’S MANALE Italian A New Orleans landmark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4; www.pascalsmanale.com PATOIS Louisiana Aaron Burgau has earned all of the praise heaped on him in recent years as a chef “to watch.” Patois combines Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a low-key neighborhood bar scene. L (F), D (W-Sa); Br (Su). 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441. Map 1, D4; www.patoisnola.com

PICNIC PROVISIONS & WHISKEY Southern Crawfish-boil hot fried chicken anchors the menu at this playful Commander’s Palace offshoot. Begin with the smoked fish dip and finish with cookie-dough s’mores. L, D (daily). 741 State St., 504.266.2810. Map 1, D4; www.nolapicnic.com

SAFFRON NOLA Indian Chic Indian fare with contemporary flair. Top picks include the pakoda choti and roti sathi. L (F-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4; www.saffronnola.com

QUE RICO Latin Cuban food 101: tender roast pork with garlicky sour-orange sauce, croquetas, Cubano sandwiches. L, D (Tu-Sa). 4200 Magazine St., 504.827.1398. Map 1, D4

Art Galleries & Antiques

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SABA Mediterranean Chef Alon Shaya provides a taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as octopus with shawarma spices. L (W-F), D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine St., 504.324.7770. Map 3, D4; www.eatwithsaba.com

SHOPPING

A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY The city’s most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4; www.agallery.com ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by Mick Jagger, among other

collectors. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4; www.alexbeardstudio.com ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quarter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Woodrow Nash and Patterson & Barnes. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4; www.angelakinggallery.com ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4; www.antieaugallery.com ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern France on Royal Street, featuring 17thand 18th-century antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and

JOSE BASSO. Nubes en el Horizonte. 2019. Original oil on canvas. 36 x 48”.

Original works by REMBRANDT, DURER, CHERET, TOULOUSE-LAUTREC, MUCHA, PICASSO, DALI, MATISSE, MIRO, CHAGALL, FRANCIS

FRANKENTHALER, MOTHERWELL, HIRST, RICHTER, TORRES, BRADLEY, SCHULZ, MR. BRAINWASH, DREBIN, KAHN, BASSO, OTTIERI.

221 ROYAL STREET NEW ORLEANS. TEL. 504.586.0202. WEB. WINDSORFINEART.COM

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a huge selection of olive jars. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4; www.antiques deprovencellc.com ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’ leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. 432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5; www.arthurroger gallery.com ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for undiscovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works—oil paintings, photography, pottery, blown glass, masks—by dozens of regional artists. 85 French Market Place, 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5; www.artistsmarketnola.com

SH O P P IN G

BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F4; www.bevolo.com CALLAN CONTEMPORARY Contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518.Map 3, C6; www.callancontemporary.com CLAIRE ELIZABETH GALLERY Emerging local and regional contemporary artists are spotlighted here. Works range from painting and photography to sculpture and papercuts. 131 Decatur St., 504.309.4063. Map 3, E5; www.claire elizabethgallery.com COLE PRATT GALLERY One of Magazine Street’s leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789.

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Map 1, D4; www.colepratt gallery.com CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; www.craigtracy.com DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ CO-OP This popular artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5; www.dutchalley artistsco-op.com FISCHER-GAMBINO An eclectic shop specializing in fine lighting fixtures, as well as statuary, furniture and home interesting home accents. 637 Royal St., 504.524.9067. Map 3, G4; www.lighting neworleans.com FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY Award-winning photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4; www.frankrelle.com FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861.Map 3, E4; www.gofrenchantiques.com FUNERAL GALLERY Offbeat illustrations, macabre assemblage dolls, quirky circus banners: If it’s edgy and eclectic, you’ll spot it here. Works by local and national artists are featured in a wide range of media. 811 Royal St., 504.603.6038. Map 3, H4; www.funeralgallery.com

HAROUNI GALLERY David Harouni has an eye for heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. His expressionistic works have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his French Quarter studio. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4; www.harouni.com JAMES H. COHEN & SONS This fifth-generation, family-run business, founded in 1898, specializes in pre-19th-century weaponry, coins dating from 450 B.C. and Civil War-related items. 437 Royal St., 504.522.3305. Map 3, F4; www.cohen antiques.com JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This gallery is home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and others. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6; www.jonathanferrara gallery.com KURT E. SCHON LTD. This fine art gallery deals in international oil paintings from the 18th and 19th centuries for collectors, museums and investors. 510 St. Louis St., 504.524.5462. Map 3, F5; www.kurteschonltd.com LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings, sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassworks are among the media exhibited here. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6; www.lemieuxgalleries.com LUCKY ROSE GALLERY Devoted to the porcelain sculpture of artist-owner Cathy Rose, who often incorporates repurposed pieces of New Orleans into her works. 840 Royal St., 504.309.8000.Map 3, H4; www.cathyrose.com M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660.

Map 3, G4; www.rauantiques.com MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERIES This branch of the nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings and sculpture by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4; www.martinlawrence.com MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4; www.michalopoulos.com MODERNIST CUISINE GALLERY Renowned photographer Nathan Myhrvold focuses on the science of cooking and cutting-edge culinary techniques. 305 Royal St., 504.571.5157. Map 3, F4; www.modernist cuisinegallery.com MOSS ANTIQUES Fine art objects fill this gallery, which offers jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories. Merchandise here comes primarily from England and France. 411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. Map 3, F4; www.mossantiques.com MYTH GALLERY Part animal/part human, Betsy Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also showcases the whimsical sculpture of R. Scott Long. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312.Map 3, H4; www.myth-gallery.com NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS Since 1938, this Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4; www. neworleanssilversmiths.com

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Sun–Thu 10 – 6, Fr i – S a t 10 – 9 • 6 1 7 B i e nv i l l e S t , N e w O r l e a n s

PENNINGTON FINE ART With no formal training, Jim Pennington honed his craft studying (and copying) the paintings of Degas, Sargent, Whistler and others. His French Quarter gallery offers original oilworks, along with giclées. 829 Royal St., 985.789.5547. Map 3, H4; www.pennington art.com RED TRUCK GALLERY “Beautiful, unexpected art” by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. 940 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4; www.redtruckgallery.com

SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERY Step into this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4; www.ashleylongshore.com STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’ preeminent exhibition space for AfricanAmerican artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker and Charly Palmer, among others. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4; www.stellajones gallery.com

LIGHTING - ART - FURNITURE 637 Royal Street, New Orleans, LA 504.524.9067 / 888.524.9067 www.lightingneworleans.com

STUDIO BE Brandan Odums’ graffiti-style murals are the perfect fit for this massive warehouse space. The evocative collection explores African-American life through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday

TANNER GALLERY & STUDIO Home to local artist Tanner’s colorful-yet-haunting “treescapes.” Originals are offered. 830 Royal St., 504.524.8266. Map 3, H4; www.haunting art.com TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; www.terranceosborne.com VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this hip shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Vintage sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and retro barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This gallery features fine works in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by Toulouse-Lautrec. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4; www.windsorfineart.com WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660. Map 1, D4; www.wirthmoreantiques.com

Books & Music BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare, antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. 228 Decatur St.,

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THE GUIDE

RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark is devoted to the works of the late great “Blue Dog” master, George Rodrigue. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; www.georgerodrigue.com

individuals. Open W-Sa, 2-8 pm. 2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231. Map 1, E3; www.ephemeral eternal.com

Shopping

OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space spotlights local and international artists. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6; www.octaviaartgallery.com


504.522.9875. Map 3, E5; www.beckhamsbookshop.com FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. 624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940. Map 3, G4; www. faulkner housebooks.com GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP This well-stocked shop offers hundreds of current titles, in addition to a large selection of New Orleans-related books. Frequent author appearances. 2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266. Map 1, D4; www.gardendistrict bookshop.com

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LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Live performances on Saturdays. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; www.louisianamusicfactory.com PEACHES RECORDS For nearly five decades, this local chain has been promoting area musicians with a large selection of New Orleans music. 4318 Magazine St., 504.282.3322. Map 1, D4 SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music shop is big on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings. Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

Clothing BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes and accessories. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4; www.billyreid.com THE CAJUN HATTER Self-made milliner Colby Hebert’s Cajun roots are evident

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in his “swamp chic” headwear, which incorporates natural elements such as alligator skin and beaver felt. 4516 Magazine St., 504.875.4644. Map 1, D4; www.colbyhebert.com DEFEND NEW ORLEANS Part T-shirt shop, part boutique and part home store. With its iconic skull, fleur de lis and musket branding, this hip spot embodies the resilient spirit of the city. 1101 First St., 504.941.7010. Map 1, D4; 600 Carondelet St., 504.324.7463. Map 3, C5; www.defend neworleans.com DIRTY COAST You won’t find your standard Bourbon Street T-shirts here. Catering to locals and in-theknow visitors, Dirty Coast’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. 713 Royal St., 504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745.Map 1, D4; www.dirtycoast.com FLEUR DE PARIS You’re guaranteed to turn heads when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats. Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4; www.fdphats.com GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s hip headwear and stylish stores are found nationwide. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2127 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3; www.goorin.com H&M This Swedish-based retail chain is known around the globe for its fab fashions and hard-to-resist prices. Women’s, men’s and children’s clothing is featured, along with home accents. 418 N. Peters St., 855.466.7467. Map 3, F5; www.hm.com HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, accessories by such lines as BCBG and Laundry are found here. 609 Chartres St.,

504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; 3310 Magazine St., 504.702.8009. Map 1, D4; www.shophemline.com

cotton and merino wool. 3913 Magazine St., 504.304.5030. Map 1, D4; www.tascperformance.com

LOST AND FOUND What you’ll find at these fun French Quarter shops is a rotating inventory of women’s clothing and accessories mixed with offbeat gift items. 323 Chartres St., 504.595.6745. Map 3, F4; 321 Toulouse St. Map 3, G5; www.lostandfound nola.com

TRASHY DIVA Original and vintage-inspired designs with a modern sensibility. The shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie and accessories. 537 Royal St.,504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; www.trashydiva.com

PENELOPE Affordable luxury is the key phrase at this sophisticated women’s boutique. Searching for edgy elegance with a European accent? You’ll find it here at hard-to-beat prices: All items are under $100. 328 Chartres St., 504.522.5893. Map 3, F4 PERLIS Mudbug season lasts yearround at Perlis, purveyor of its famous crawfish-logo line of clothing. In addition, Perlis carries such specialty items as Mardi Gras-hued rugby shirts. The place for classic seersucker suits. 600 Decatur St., 504.523.6681. Map 3, G5; 6070 Magazine St., 504.895.8661. Map 1, D4; www.perlis.com PIPPEN LANE Go ahead and spoil the child at this upscale boutique, which features fine designer kids’ clothing for both boys and girls, stylish European shoes, custom furniture and embroidered linens. 2930 Magazine St., 504.269.0106. Map 1, D4; www.pippenlane.com QUEORK Cork is the get at this sleek boutique, where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. 838 Chartres St., 504.481.2585. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.388.6803.Map 1, D4; www.queork.com TASC Originating in New Orleans, this popular line of active wear is now found nationwide. The secret to its success is its eco-conscious fabric that blends bamboo with organic

UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs at drastically reduced prices. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4; www.shopual.com WEINSTEIN’S Elegant European women’s wear, from casual to formal, is the specialty at this store, which features the latest by leading designers. 4011 Magazine St., 504.895.6278. Map 1, D4; www.weinsteinsinc.com

Gifts & Collectibles BOTTOM OF THE CUP In addition to psychic readings (palm, tarot, tea leaf), this 80-year-old shop offers a variety of teas and accessories. Crystals, amulets and other metaphysical gift items are also available. 327 Chartres St., 504.524.1997. Map 3, F4; www.bottomofthecup.com BOUTIQUE DU VAMPYRE Searching for a set of custom-made fangs? Look no further than the nation’s only vampire store, where you’ll also find leather coffin cases, silver bullet jewelry and temporary bite tattoos. 709 St. Ann St., 504.561.8267. Map 3, G4; www.feelthebite.com BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and great gift items. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4; www.shop bungalows.com

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Shopping

CIGAR FACTORY NEW ORLEANS & MUSEUM Watch master cigar makers at work in the Crescent City’s oldest and only cigar factory and museum. Among the specialty styles made here are Plantation Reserve and Vieux Carré. 415 Decatur St., 504.568.1003. Map 3, F5; 206 Bourbon St., 504.568.0168. Map 3, E4; www. cigarfactoryneworleans.com DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with his decorative pottery. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4; www.derbypottery.com

FOREVER NEW ORLEANS At this shop, you’ll find fleurde-lis everything—from pillows to pottery—along with other Crescent City-themed keepsakes and gift items. 308 Royal St., 504.525.0100. Map 3, F4; 606 Royal St., 504.510.4813. Map 3, G4; 700 Royal St., 504.586.3536. Map 3, G4; www. shopforeverneworleans.com HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERY This magical emporium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners, and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. 1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5; www.hexwitch.com LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5; www.littletoyshopnola.com

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THE GUIDE

ERZULIE’S AUTHENTIC VOUDOU Experience the power of authentic voodoo at this shop, which offers handcrafted spell kits, magical gris-gris bags, voodoo psychic oils, love potions, dolls and more. 807 Royal St., 504.525.2055. Map 3, G4; www.erzulies.com


MADAME AUCOIN PERFUME “The oldest perfumer in the South” lives on thanks to her great grand-nephew, who recently reopened shop in her former residence. Artisanal fragrance lines are featured. 608 Bienville St., 504.259.5975. Map 3, F4; www.madame aucoinperfume.com THE MASK GALLERY Austrian crystals, hand-tooled leather and fanciful feathers are the signature touches of maskmaker Massoud Dalili’s colorful Carnival creations. 841 Royal St., 504.523.6664. Map 3, F4; www.neworleans mask.com

SH O P P IN G

MIETTE Out-of-the-ordinary gifts and souvenirs are showcased at this colorful and crowded boutique. A mix of locally made jewelery, crafts, clothing and home accents is offered. 2038 Magazine St., 504 .522.2883. Map 1, D4; www. iheartmiette.com NOLA BOARDS Add a dash of Crescent City flavor to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. 519 Wilkinson St., Suite 105, 504.435.1485. Map 3, G4; www.nolaboards.com NOLA KIDS This children’s boutique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth, along with toys, books and great gift items. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4; www.shopnola kids.com RICCA ARCHITECTURAL SALES This Mid-City warehouse is packed with retro Southern splendor rescued from demolished buildings. Hard-to-find antique hardware, ornate mantles, stained-glass windows and an endless selection of doors merely hint at the offerings. 511 N. Solomon St., 504.488.5524. Map 1, D2; www.riccas architecturalsales.com ROUX ROYALE This shop caters to foodies with select serving ware and kitchen-related accessories,

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many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4; www.shoprouxroyale.com

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and topof-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; www.aidangillfor men.com BELLADONNA DAY SPA Attempting to cover the entire six-mile stretch of Magazine Street can run even the most ardent shopper ragged. Thankfully, Belladonna sits at the halfway point, providing rejuvenation before heading back out on the hunt. 2900 Magazine St., 504.891.4393. Map 1, D4; www.belladonna dayspa.com FIFI MAHONY’S In search of the perfect pink wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby red lipstick? It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4; www.fifimahonys.com HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that has been in business for 80-plus years. Among the perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5; www.hoveparfumeur.com SEPHORA The local branch of the nation’s leading cosmetics and perfume retailer offers more than 13,000 products from 200-plus brands, all of which can be tested on-site. 414 N. Peters St., 504.561.9889. Map 3, F5; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.830.4567. Map 1, C2; www. sephora.com

THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious, award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3; www.ritzcarlton.com WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10 private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate French clay, roses and water lilies. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; www.roosevelt neworleans.com TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these centrally located relaxation stations, which specialize in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7

Jewelry ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; www. artandeyesneworleansla.com

Orleans street. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, H4; 1818 Magazine St., 504.342.2462. Map 1, D4; www.krewe.com LA PETIT FLEUR Specializing in estate and contemporary jewelry, La Petit Fleur is well known for its own line of pendants based on the fleur de lis. The shop also offers Crescent City-themed charms.. 534 Royal St., 504.522.1305. Map 3, G4; www.lapetit fleur.com MIGNON FAGET Designer Faget has created jewelry for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 504.524.2973. Map 3, E5; 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; www.mignonfaget.com PORTER LYONS Jewelry designer Ashley Lyons is a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations. 631 Toulouse St., 504.518.4945. Map 3, G5; www.porterlyons.com WELLINGTON & COMPANY This shop is largely devoted to antique and estate jewelry, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and art deco designs. New designer lines are also featured. 505 Royal St., 504.525.4855. Map 3, F4; www.wcjewelry.com.

Malls/ Major Retailers

FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron, St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4; www.fleurdorleans.com

LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and the airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, Macy’s, Michael Kors, Microsoft and Sephora. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2; www.lakesideshopping.com

KREWE Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett has garnered a national following with his locally designed line of glasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New

THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Located along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the nation’s first urban outlet center offers more than

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Shopping

70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio. 500 Port of New Orleans Place, 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7; www.riverwalkneworleans.com THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5; www. theshopsatcanalplace.com

Shoes FEET FIRST More than 50 lines of women’s brand-name shoes, handbags, jewelry and accessories are offered here, along with items by local designers. also featured. 4122 Magazine St., 504.899.6800. Map 1, D4

ITION EXH IB A FR E E RING A RT I N F E AT U ORARY P M E T ART ER CON CH QU N E R F THE

JOHN FLUEVOG “Unique soles for unique souls.” This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4; www.fluevog.com NOLA FOOT CANDY Sweet treats for your feet. Located along Jackson Square, this womens shoe shop stocks a wide variety of fun and fashionable styles. 510 St. Peter St., 504.252.9144. Map 3, G4; www.nolafootcandy.com SHOE BE DO Get a step ahead with cutting-edge women’s footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; www.shoebedousa.com

520 Royal Street www.hnoc.org • (504) 523-4662 #artofthecitynola

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THE GUIDE

GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop for professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers to dress shoes. 539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929. Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2; www.orleansshoes.com


Special Services PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICES This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with 40 related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4; www.packrat shipping.com

ATTRACTIONS Attractions & Landmarks ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre green space is home to Congo Square, where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2

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AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Admission includes a ticket for the Entergy Giant Screen Theater. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing hours. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6; www.auduboninstitute.org AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTARIUM The nation’s largest museum devoted to insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5; www.auduboninstitute.org AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36). St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4; www.auduboninstitute.org

AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the finest in the U.S. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing hours. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4; www.auduboninstitute.org CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities of the dead” act as windows on the past, offering insight into local history and customs. Many are located in high-crime areas. Tours are available; do not venture in alone, day or night. CHALMETTE BATTLEFIELD & NATIONAL CEMETERY Just down the river from where Andrew Jackson’s statue stands in the square that bears his name is the battlefield where he fought the last battle of the War of 1812. 8606 W St Bernard Hwy., 504.281.0510. Map 1, F3 ; www.nps.gov/jela/ chalmette-battlefield.htm CHAMPIONS SQUARE This open-air venue, adjacent to

the Mercedes-Benz Superdome, boasts 45,000 sq. ft. and stateof-the-art technology. The space plays host to free fan fests during New Orleans Saints home games and numerous concerts throughout the year. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3822. Map 3, B2; www.champions-square.com CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 Dreyfous Ave., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2; www.neworleans citypark.com CRESCENT PARK Looking for unique views of the city? Stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront promenade, which stretches from the French Quarter to the Bywater neighborhood. Map 3, J6; www.crescentparknola.org ESCAPE MY ROOM The concept of this live, interactive game is simple—solve the puzzle within an hour and

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Attractions

you and your teammates “escape” the mystery room—but it’s way more complex (and fun) than that. Reservations required. 633 Constance St., 504.475.7580. Map 3, D6; www.escapemyroom.com FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market dates to pre-colonial days. Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1100 N. Peters St., 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5; www.frenchmarket.org FULTON ALLEY Putting a fresh spin on the old bowling alley, this upscale venue offers 12 lanes in a sleek setting, along with an indoor game parlor (bocce, foosball, etc.), cool craft cocktails and big-flavored small plates. 600 Fulton St., 504.208.5569. Map 3, D6; www.fultonalley.com

JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo op. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5 JEAN LAFITTE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK AND PRESERVE On this 23,000-acre area of protected wetlands, you’ll get to see egrets, cranes, pelicans and alligators in their natural habitat. Wooden walkways allow you to explore deep into the swamp. 6588 Barataria Blvd., Marrero, 504.589.3882. www.nps.gov/jela LAFITTE GREENWAY This 2.6-mile bike and pedestrian trail connects Armstrong Park to City Park. The ADAcompliant green corridor, dotted with recreation fields, offers quiet retreat in the heart of the

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THE GUIDE

HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino features 2,100 slots, 104 table games, live entertainment and a lavish buffet. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6; www.harrahsneworleans.com


city. Map 3, F2; www.lafittegreenway.org

524 St. Louis St., 504.208.5320. Map 3, F5; www.nosoc.com

MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4 pm. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8; www.mardigrasworld.com

OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is the oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M-F, 10 am-4 pm; Sa, 9 am-3 pm. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4; www.stlouiscathedral.org

BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM Located in a former funeral parlor, this offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous sendoffs and second-line parades. Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. 1116 Henriette Delille St., 504.522.4806. Map 3, I2; www.backstreetmuseum.org

SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Superdome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. 1501 Dave Dixon Drive, 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2 ; www.smoothiekingcenter.com

CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also plays host to performances. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6; www.cacno.org

ST. AUGUSTINE CHURCH The second-oldest AfricanAmerican Catholic church in the nation. A jazz Mass is held Sundays at 10 am. 1210 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.525.5934 Map 3, I2; www.staugustine catholicchurch-neworleans.org

DEGAS HOUSE The home where Edgar Degas lived during his time in New Orleans is filled with prints of the French impressionist’s works. Tours of the 1852 property are offered daily at 10:30 am and 1:45 pm, and by appointment. 2306 Esplanade Ave.,

MERCEDES-BENZ SUPERDOME The recently revamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2; www.mbsuperdome.com

AT T R A C T IO N S

NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS This popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3; www.seelos.org NEW ORLEANS CULINARY & HOSPITALITY INSTITUTE Catering to foodies, this stateof-the-art facility offers a variety of hands-on courses, along with a taste of Crescent City culinary history and a casual café. 725 Howard Ave., 504.5891.4060. Map 3, B5; www.nochi.org NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This pocket park celebrates Bourbon Street’s musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and live music. 311 Bourbon St., 504.888.7608. Map 3, F4; www.neworleans musicallegends.com NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & STORE Creole/Cajun cooking demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm.

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ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Mass said daily. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4; www.stlouis cathedral.org

504.821.5009. Map 1, D2; www.degashouse.com GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm. 1132 Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4; www.hgghh.org HERMANN-GRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/ museum provides a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750. Map 3, F4; www.hgghh.org HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions and permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa,

DESTINATION KITCHEN

WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront promenade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6

Museums ABITA MYSTERY HOUSE Housed in a former filling station in nearby Abita Springs, artist John Preble’s eccentric send-up of “redneck culture” features offbeat oddities fashioned from more than 50,000 found objects. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 22275 Highway 36, Abita Springs, 985.892.2624. Map 2, F1; www.abitamysteryhouse.com

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NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits. The Victory Theater shows the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries.” 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6; ww.nationalww2 museum.org NEW ORLEANS AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM This repository of AfricanAmerican art, culture and history is located in the Faubourg Tremé, America’s oldest black neighborhood. 1417-1419 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.566.1136. Map 3, I2; www.noaam.org NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free outdoor sculpture garden. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; www.noma.org NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM This former apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain.Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. 514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4; www.pharmacymuseum.org

PITOT HOUSE MUSEUM Located along scenic Bayou St. John, this circa-1799 home, built for New Orleans’ first mayor, is an excellent example of a Creole plantation house. Open W-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. 1440 Moss St., 504.482.0312. Map 1, D2; www.louisianalandmarks.org SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFAB features exhibits, along with cooking classes. Open W-M, 11 am-5:30 pm. 1504 Oretha C. Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3; www.southernfood.org

Plantations DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 30-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. Closed all major holidays. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095. www.destrehan plantation.org HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877.303.1776 for details. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380. www.houmas house.com LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This 1804 structure is one of the oldest and largest complexes on River Road. Laura bases its

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THE GUIDE

(504) 329-2489

LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS The Louisiana State Museum operates five French Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbyère, the circa-1789 Madame John’s Legacy; the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. 504.568.6968.www. louisianastatemuseum.org

OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open F-W, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; www.ogdenmuseum.org

Attractions

9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; www.hnoc.org


tours on 5,000 pages of documents detailing 200 years of Creole plantation life by the women, children and servants who lived there. Guided tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm. 2247 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. www.laura plantation.com NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White Castle of Louisiana” is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. Overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730. www.nottoway.com

EN T ER TA IN M EN T

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture-perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of Great River Road” offers overnight accommodations in century-old cottages. Guided tours daily, 9 am-5 pm. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 888.279.9802. www.oakalleyplantation.org SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home, built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. Closed major holidays. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756. www.sanfrancisco plantation.org ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of 19th-century architect Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877. The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. 535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078. www.stjosephplantation.com WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the public for the first time in its 265-year history, this plantation ex-

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plores slavery through moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300. www.whitneyplantation.com

ENTERTAINMENT Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore Louisiana swamplands via guided, high-speed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. 504.689.2005 or 888. GO.SWAMP. www.airboat adventures.com CANOE & TRAIL ADVENTURES Explore Lake Pontchartrain the way Native Americans did. Daily three-hour, eco-friendly canoe and kayak excursions with certified guides are offered. Call for reservations and launch locations. 504.233.0686 CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides intimate group tours of the French Quarter, Garden District and area cemeteries, along with Hurricane Katrina recovery excursions and private outings. Tours average 2.5 to three hours; rates vary. 504.587.7115. www.celebrationtoursllc.com CITY SIGHTSEEING This double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; www. citysightseeingneworleans.com CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS These guided bicycle tours take visitors out of the French Quarter and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored neighborhoods. Cocktail and culinary excursions are also offered. 634 Eylsian Fields Ave., 504.400.5468. Map 3, J5; www.confederacyof cruisers.com

CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; www.creolequeen.com DRINK & LEARN Culinary historian Elizabeth Pearce leads these fun and informative tippling tours through the French Quarter. 504.578.8280. www.drinkandlearn.com FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS These guided walking tours cover everything from ghost and vampire lore to cemeteries and music. All tours depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street); reservations required. 718 N. Rampart St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4; www.frenchquarter phantoms.com FRENCH QUARTOUR KIDS These guided walks take children on a journey back in time through the streets of the historic Vieux Carré. Check website for current tour schedule. 504.975.5355. www. frenchquartourkids.com. FRIENDS OF THE CABILDO Informative, two-hour walking tours of the French Quarter are offered daily at 10:30 am and 1:30 pm. 523 St. Ann St., 504.523.3939. Map 3, G5; www.friendsofthecabildo.org GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS Gray Line offers a variety of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, Steamboat and River Cruises—and all possible combinations. All depart from the Toulouse Street Wharf. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; www.graylineneworleans.com HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and

Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. www.haunted historytours.com JEAN LAFITTE SWAMP TOURS This privately owned company with trained guides provides an up-close look at local flora and fauna. Daily swamp and airboat tours are offered. Transportation from area hotels available. 6601 Leo Kerner Lafitte Pkwy., Marrero, 504.529.4567. www.jeanlafitte swamptour.com KAYAK-ITI-YAT Kayak tours of beautiful Bayou St. John, which cuts a scenic swatch through the midsection of the city, are offered daily; call for launch times. (Tours launch across from 3494 Esplanade Ave.) 985.778.5034 ; 512.964.9499. Map 1, D2; www.kayakitiyat.com NEW ORLEANS SPIRITS AND SPELLS TOUR These guided spirited journeys through the French Quarter explore the ghosts, gris-gris and witchery associated with the world’s most magical city. Departs Friday to Sunday at 7 pm from Hex: Old World Witchery. 1219 Decatur St., 504.667.5570. Map 3, I5; www.spiritsandspellstour.com NOLA BREW BUS Beer fans get their fill on these fun, guided tasting tours of local breweries. Private and custom excursions are also available. 1129 Decatur St., no phone. Map 3, H5; www.nolabrewbus.com RIVERBOAT CITY OF NEW ORLEANS The city’s newest riverboat has all of the flair and flavor of the city, with great dining, jazz, bars, history and culture. Daily jazz brunch and dinner cruises are offered. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; www.riverboatcity ofneworleans.com ROYAL EGYPT TOUR WITH DR. ZAHI HAWASS Discover the secrets of Egypt with a tour company unlike

JU LY 2 0 1 9


SAVE OUR CEMETERIES St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am, 11:30 am and 1 pm from Backatown Coffee Parlour (301 Basin St.). Lafayette No. 1: departs daily at 10:30 am and 1 pm from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). 504.525.3377. www.save ourcemeteries.org

In Historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church - Sanctuary of Prayer, Hope & Healing - Religious Articles - Free Tours 919 Josephine St. in the Irish Channel (one block off Magazine Street)

(504) 525-2495 seelos.org

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3436 Magazine St. | 504.899.5415

TABASCO PEPPER SAUCE FACTORY TOUR Daily guided tours of the famous factory and museum are offered 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays), along with tours of the Jungle Gardens and Bird City. La. Hwy. 329, Avery Island, La., 337.365.8173. Map 2, C2; www.tabacso.com VIP CITY TOURS These two-hour excursions offer a sweeping overview of the city, from the French Quarter and the Garden District to Lake Pontchartrain and the Lower 9th Ward. Tours conducted daily at 9 am, 1 and 4 pm. 2314 Iberville St., 504.329.2489. Map 1, D3; www.vipcitytours.com

NIGHTLIFE Cocktails ALTO Get above it all at the Ace Hotel’s rooftop bar, which offers amazing views and poolside dining. Open daily, 10 am-9 pm. 600 Corondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map 3, C5; www.acehotel.com/new orleans/alto ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; www.arnauds.com AVENUE PUB The New Orleans go-to for craft beers, offering the city’s largest available selection of locally produced brews. 1732 St. Charles Ave., 504.586.9243. Map 1, D3; www.theavenue pub.com BAR MARILOU With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisianaccented space is perfect for sipping an afternoon appertif while nibbling on sophisticated bites, such as crisped potato stacks topped with crème fraïche and caviar. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711. www.barmarilou.com BARCADIA A bar and arcade in one—get it? Old-school games (Jenga, Skeeball, air hockey) are the draw... along with 30-plus beers on tap. Hungry? Grab a burger or a fried PB&J. 601 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.335.1740. Map 3, D6; www.barcadianola.com BARREL PROOF This Lower Garden District hot spot offers more than 150 brands of whiskey from around the globe. 1201 Magazine St., 504.299.1888. Map 3, A7; www.barrelproofnola.com BAR TONIQUE Dark woods and candlelight set the mood for top-shelf cocktails, housemade tonics and an extensive selection of wines by the glass. 820 N. Rampart St.,

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THE GUIDE

National Shrine of Blessed Francis Xavier SEELOS

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; www.steamboatnatchez.com

Nightlife

any other. Visit the Land of the Pharaohs with the world’s most famous archaeologist, Dr. Zahi Hawass, who has held the keys to all Egyptian antiquities for more than 20 years. Meet distinguished guests including Dr. Mostafa Waziri, Egypt’s Head of Antiquities, and former First Lady Mrs. Jehan Sadat, in the residence of Egypt’s late president Anwar Sadat. “No one can tour Egypt like this. Except for you—when you come and join me,” says Dr. Hawass. 917.719.1974. www.royalegypt.com


504.324.6045. Map 3, H3; www.bartonique.com

504.323.1453. Map 1, D3; www.hottinbar.com

BAYOU WINE GARDEN This casual Mid-City spot offers 32 rotating wines on draft and a huge bottled selection. Cheese and charcuterie boards are also available, in addition to small and large plates. More a suds fan? Cross the courtyard bridge to the adjacent Bayou Beer Garden. 315 N. Rendon St., 504.826.2925. Map 1, D3; www.bayouwinegarden.com

LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H4; www. lafittesblacksmithshop.com

THE BULLDOG The patio is the way to go at this British-themed pub, where the fountain is fashioned from dozens of old beer taps. Only fitting given the dog-friendly tavern’s 48-plus draft beers and additional 100 varieties offered by the bottle. 3236 Magazine St., 504.891.1516. www.draftfreak. com Map 1, D4; 5135 Canal Blvd., 504.488.4191. Map 1, D2 ; www.draftfreak.com

N IG H T L IF E

CURE This cutting-edge cocktail lounge, housed in a former fire station, has one foot in the 19th century and one in the 21st, making it one of the hippest places in town to imbibe and socialize. 4905 Freret St., 504.302.2357. Map 1, D3; www.curenola.com EFFERVESENCE This bubbly spot features 90plus bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates. Open W-Su. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3; www.nolabubbles.com HERMES BAR This sophisticated hideaway, tucked inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street. Live entertainment on weekends. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4; www.antoines.com HOT TIN Named after a Tennessee Williams play (the author once stayed here) this sophisticated space on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel offers creative cocktails and amazing views. 2031 St. Charles Ave.,

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NOLA BREWING Weekly brewery tours, a massive tap room and in-house barbecue make this a must-stop for beer fans. 3001 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.9996. Map 3, D4; www.nolabrewing.com PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; www.patobriens.com THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4; www.penthouse clubneworleans.com ROYAL FRENCHMEN BAR Just steps from the bustling nightlife on Frenchmen Street, this cozy hotel bar offers craft cocktails, local brews, light bites and live music nightly. Open daily at noon. 700 Royal St., 504.619.9600. Map 3, J4; www.royalfrenchmen.com SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic cocktails in the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; www. therooseveltneworleans.com

Live Entertainment APPLE BARREL This raffish joint is tiny but has a warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the crowded room. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J5 BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish. Local acts perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.948.2583. Map 3, J5; www.bluenilelive.com CAFÉ NEGRIL This intimate club features crowd-pleasing live acts, ranging from jazz and blues to rock and reggae (Fridays), and an island-themed atmosphere that sets a mellow vibe. 606 Frenchmen St., 504.383.5131. Map 3, J5; www.cafenegril nola.com CAROUSEL BAR Located in the Hotel Monteleone, this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers). Live music nightly. 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4; www.hotel monteleone.com CHICKIE WAH WAH This hot venue keeps the MidCity music scene at a steady boil with sets by leading jazz and funk acts. 2828 Canal St., 844.244.2543. Map 1, D3; www.chickiewahwah.com CLARET WINE & COCKTAIL BAR A welcoming neighborhood vibe, 25 wines by the glass, dozens more by the bottle, 30plus beers, creative quaffs and a large selection of charcuterie, cheese and small plates will make you settle in here for a while. 1320 Magazine St., 504.766.9425. Map 1, D4; www.claretnola.com D.B.A. This chic hangout on the Frenchmen strip features 20 premium draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and

live music nightly. Lively weehours scene. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5; www.dbaneworleans.com THE DAVENPORT LOUNGE An elegant escape inside the Ritz-Carlton offering classic New Orleans cocktails and sexy small plates, along with entertainment by trumpeter/ crooner Jeremy Davenport. 921 Canal St., 504.524.1331. Map 3, E3; www.ritzcarlton.com THE FILLMORE NEW ORLEANS Harrah’s Casino ups the live-music ante with this 22,000 sq.-ft. offshoot of the legendary San Francisco venue, which feaures top-tier national touring acts. 6 Canal St., 504.881.1555. Map 3, E6; www.fillmorenola.com GASA GASA Live music, local art exhibitions, film screenings and recording sessions are all on tap at this quirky Uptown music venue. 4920 Freret St., 504.338.3567. Map 1, D3; www.gasagasa.com HI-HO LOUNGE This legendary dive got a recent makeover, complete with an expanded stage and new sound system. Thankfully the vibe remains as funky and friendly as ever. Entertainment runs the gamut, from bluegrass to burlesque. 2239 St. Claude Ave., 504.945.4446. Map 3, K4; www.hiholounge.net HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; www.hob.com HOWLIN’ WOLF This locally owned and operated club features low cover charges and low attitude. Acts include both local favorites and big names; the music ranges from punk to rock. 907 S. Peters St., 504.529.5844. Map 3, C7; www.thehowlin wolf.com

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LITTLE GEM SALOON This long-neglected jazz landmark has received a new lease on life, and is once again a player on the city’s live-music scene with performances most nights of the week. 445 S. Rampart St., 504.267.4863. Map 3, C3; www.littlegemsaloon.com MAPLE LEAF A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3; www.mapleleafbar.com

PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841.Map 3, G4; www.preservationhall.com REPUBLIC NEW ORLEANS One of downtown’s hottest night spots. Bands, touring and local, share the stage with a late-night dance club. 828 S. Peters St., 504.528.8282. Map 3, C6; www.republicnola.com ROCK ’N’ BOWL A legendary local favorite now in a new, larger location, Rock ’n’ Bowl still features the winning combination of bowling lanes and live music from the region’s top zydeco, R&B and rock acts. 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.861.1700.Map 1, D3; www.rockandbowl.com

SNUG HARBOR An elegant, intimate mainstay of Frenchmen Street’s music row. Two sets nightly. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696.Map 3, J4; www.snugjazz.com THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual, laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following among locals and visitors alike. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) and continues way into the night. 623 Frenchmen St., no phone.Map 3, J5; www. spottedcatmusicclub.com STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Swing back to a bygone era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6; ww.stagedoorcanteen.org THREE KEYS This hip space in the Ace Hotel mixes things up with live performances by local music acts, swing dance lessons and

guest speakers discussing New Orleans culture. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map 1, D3; www.threekeysnola.com THREE MUSES This hip venue offers a veritable nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5; www.3musesnola.com TIPITINA’S The legendary Tip’s offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars.. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; www.tipitinas.com VAUGHAN’S This tumbledown dive deep in the Bywater neighborhood gets jam-packed during its legendary Thursday night jam sessions, now headlined by Corey Henry & the Treme Funktet. 800 Lessups St., 504.947.5562. Map 1, E3

THE GUIDE

ONE EYED JACKS Rockabilly, retro, rock, neo-burlesque: this swank-dive serves

it all up in a vintage bordello atmosphere. 615 Toulouse St., 504.569.8361. Map 3, G4; www.oneeyedjacks.net

Nightlife

THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. The club features a rotating roster of leading local talent nightly at 8 pm. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map , F4; www.sonesta.com/ jazzplayhouse

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Winner 3 years in a row, New Orleans Magazine Tops of the Town for Brunch 2017, 2018, 2019 125 Camp Street | 504-561-8844 | www.redgravycafe.com Summer Hours 9-2 (closed Tuesday & Wednesday)

4

907 Bourbon Street (504) 592-4666 Vintage Designer Sunglasses & More 329 Royal Street New Orleans, LA 70130 504-525-2262 | vintage329.com

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NO-WM_090300_Skully's-FQ Walk.in1 1

907 Bourbon Street (504) 592-4666

W HERETRAVELER ® CI TY NA ME HE RE

MONTH YEAR NO-WM_090300_Skully's-FQ Walk.in1 1

2/9/09 2:37:04 PM

2/9/09


SPECI A L A DV ERT ISING SECT ION

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FRENCH QUARTER N Y

KERLEREC

ST .A N TH O

BURGUNDY

1200

ESPLANADE

1100

BARRACKS

1000

URSULINES

900

ST. PHILIP

DUMAINE

ST. ANN

9

800

ORLEANS

700

1000

ST. PETER

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600

GOV. NICHOLLS

Mahalia Jackson Theater of the Performing Arts Armstrong Park

PA U G ER

900

.R AM

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BOURBON

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Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop

TO

800

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DAUPHINE

4

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ESPLANADE

EL D S FI N IA EL YS

MADISON

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Mar

Local Artists Gifts Full service bead store

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Gov. Nic holl sS t. W har f

American Aquatic Garden

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Old U.S. Mint

EC

2

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MOONWALK

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Pedestrian Mall

IN

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3

8

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Ursuline Convent

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Pedestrian Mall

PH Washington Square Park

500

WILKINSON ROW

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600

BeauregardKeyes House CHARTRES

Brewery

AR

FR EN C

ROYAL Gallier House

Madame John's Legacy

Jackson Square

H M EN

Y

700

PIRATE’S PERE ALLEY ANTOINE ALLEY

1

(no Mardi Gras beads)

85 French Market Pl., 1228 Decatur St., New Orleans, LA 70116

504.561.0046

Historic Algiers Point

sales@theartistsmarketnola.com

www.theartistsmarketnola.com

5

6

9

KILLER POBOYS Internationally Inspired, Chef Crafted, New Orleans Style Sandwiches

219 Dauphine (504) 462-2731 Wed - Mon | 10AM - 8PM

811 Conti @ Erin Rose Bar (504)252-6745 Wed - Mon | 10AM - Midnight

55


S. RAMPART

100 BARO

NNE

9 EXCHANGE ALLEY

1

Historic N.O. Collection

COMM ON

VIER GRA

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St. Louis Cathedral

1

CHARTRES

2

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9

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Harrah's Casino Riverwalk

Creole Queen

1

RS

Canal Place Shopping Centre

Aquarium of the Americas Algiers 6 Ferry

5

Entergy IMAX Theatre

4

Jackson Squar e

TCAR

3

ST. PHILIP

6

Historic Algiers Point

WALKING TOUR

4

Serving Lunch & Dinner. Live Music Thursday - Sunday 504-524-9632

510 Toulouse St. NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

3 Find the best of the city

TWO LOCATIONS 837 Canal Street (plus, full service nail salon) 212 Chartres Street 210.843.827

DECATUR

2

French Quarter

Woldenberg Riverfront Park

Mississippi River

Ursuline Convent

MOONWALK

Natchez Steamboat Gray Line Tour Departures

2

6 4

TREE

NT S

RFRO

RIVE

ne ETE

Beauregar Keyes Ho

Jackson Brewery

Insecterium

Gallier House

Madame John's Legacy

WILKINSON ROW

DECATUR

ZIN

S. P

DUMAINE

PIRATE'S ALLEY PERE ANTOINE ALLEY

ROYAL Vieux Carré Police Station

3

N. P

LAS

ST. ANN

Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop

DORSIERE

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1100

BOURBON

M CA

ade

1000

MADISON

CANAL

IDO RD

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ST. CHARLES

HermannGrima House

Pedestrian Mall

9

CARONDELET

GA MA

900

BURGUNDY

Pedestrian Mall

11

P

800

DAUPHINE

3

ONT STOPS

700

ORLEANS

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600

ST. PETER

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500

ST. LOUIS

ERSIT

400 CONTI

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IBERVILLE

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New Orleans Centre

BIENVILLE

LA

O OY

300

TOULOUSE

N. RAMPART

200

Louisiana Superdome

URSULINES

SPECI A L A DV ERT ISING SECT ION

Fren

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N TH O N Y

KERLEREC

ST .A

1000 900

RT PA

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600

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L YA

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Mar

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FI AN EL YS I

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Old U.S. Mint

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Other notable landmarks: .R

BARRACKS

1200

N

GOV. NICHOLLS

SPECI A L A DV ERT ISING SECT ION

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The French Quarter is one of the nation’s oldest residential communities. Please treat this historic neighborhood with respect.

6

10

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FREE 7

GIFT* WITH A $35 ROCK SHOP PURCHASE

125 BOURBON ST. | +1 504.529.5617

#HardRockCafe | hardrock.com ©2019 HARD ROCK INTERNATIONAL (USA), INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Expires 12/31/19 * terms and conditions apply

19-HRCSE-1546 WHERE MAGAZINE.indd 1 3/7/2019 11:16:33 AM


Artisan Pastries, Sandwiches, Salads and More from Gracious Bakery

Served for Brunch and Lunch at NOCHI, New Orleans’ Premier Culinary School

725 Howard Avenue, New Orleans LA (504) 635-0033 graciousbakery.com


NEW ORLEANS Maps

NEW ORLEANS NEW ORLEANS METRO & JEFFERSON PARISH A

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Metairie

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Houma

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Kenner

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Vermilion Bay

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Napoleonville

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Laplace

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THE GUIDE

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NEW ORLEANS CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT & FRENCH QUARTER A

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LSU Health Sciences Center

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Mercedes-Benz Superdome

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Smoothie King Center

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N.O. Pelicans

Joy Theater

Rampart Streetcar Line

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Orpheum Theater

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Cancer Survivors Park

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Civic Theatre

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Toulouse St. Wharf

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National WWII Museum

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Canal St Ferry Landing

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Outlet Collection at Riverwalk

Poydras St. Wharf

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Girod St.

Riverfront Wharf Streetcar Line HA

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Julia St. Cruise Terminal & Parking Garage

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New Orleans International Cruise Terminal 1/8 mi 200 m

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Maps

H

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BC B on Canal, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 K CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F3 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 1 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5 EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 2 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 3 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 4 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 5 MC Marriott at the Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NC New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 NO NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 St OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 ia n e Av OR vOmni e Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 Sp ch lin A Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 Ro FrankOO t S PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 6 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 RF Royal Frenchman, 400 Esplanade Ave., 619-9660 J4 7 Street Direction RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 French Quarter RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 Jazzy Passes SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 1 day - $3 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 3 day - $9 8 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 31 day - 55 WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 Ride RTA buses and streetcars as WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 much as you’d like. WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 K WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

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French Market

HM

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Gov. Nicholls St. Wharf

Riverfront Streetcar Line

Crescent Park

KEY HM

Transit Routes

Hotel

Riverfront - $1.25 St. Charles - $1.25 Magazine - $1.25 Canal St - $1.25 Loyola - $1.25 Rampart - $1.25

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THE GUIDE

C St

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WHERE NEXT THROUGH YOUR LENS

TOP FROM LEFT:

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PARTING SHOT

Horns Aplenty From Bourbon Street to Frenchmen Street to Oak Street, the city offers a cornucopia of great music clubs. Keep an ear to the ground and your dancing shoes on.

64

W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

JU LY 2 0 1 9


Double Plantation Tour OAK ALLEY

LAURA

Three Unique Stories of Plantation Life

Choose a TWO plantation combination Whitney & Laura | Laura & Oak Alley | Whitney & Oak Alley ENJOY OUR OTHER TOURS: SUPER CITY • SWAMP • AIRBOAT • KATRINA PLANTATION/BRUNCH/SWAMP • COCKTAIL GARDEN DISTRICT • FRENCH QUARTER CEMETERY & VOODOO • GHOSTS & SPIRITS • GROUPS • SEASONAL

Locally owned & touring New Orleans since 1924! 504-569-1401 | 800-233-2628 | GrayLineNewOrleans.com

steamboat

Last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River Three cruises a day from the French Quarter Dinner Jazz Cruise, Sunday Brunch & more Calliope Concerts & Engine Room Visits Inside and outside seating Live Jazz on all cruises 504-569-1401 • SteamboatNatchez.com


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Where Magazine New Orleans July 2019