Where Magazine New Orleans Feb 2018

FEBRUARY 2018 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

New Orleans

®

DRESSED TO THRILL

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Carnival Costuming, Masked Marvels and Cool Couture

MARDI GRAS PARADES 25 THINGS WE LOVE ROMANTIC ROOMS

NOMA’s first major fashion exhibition showcases designer Alexander McQueen and other rare couture pieces.

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New Orleans CONTENTS

02.18

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the plan

22

11 Ask the Expert

DINING

XX

Isabelle Van Bockel Concierge at the JW Marriott Hotel.

Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood. Plus romantic repasts and poke-ing around.

12 Editor’s Note Revisiting 50 years of Where New Orleans.

XX 30 SHOPPING

14 Hot Dates Mardi Gras Day Fat Tuesday festivities, the Grateful Dead lives on, "The Color Purple," St. Vincent and 23 other entertainment ideas to put on your list.

the guide

Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus marvelous masks and a new beginning for "the oldest perfumer in the South."

16

XX

38

GALLERIES & ANTIQUES

A citywide gallery crawl.

Plus the Modernist Cuisine Gallery and Prospect.4.

XX

45

Tours, attractions, museums, bars and clubs. Plus citywide bike-sharing and the Bourbon Street Awards.

72 New Orleans Your Way

XX

58

Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations. Plus the Tammany Trace.

New Orleans

®

DRESSED TO THRILL

wheretraveler.com

Carnival Costuming, Masked Marvels and Cool Couture

MARDI GRAS PARADES 25 THINGS WE LOVE

20

ROMANTIC ROOMS

NOMA’s first major fashion exhibition showcases designer Alexander McQueen and other rare couture pieces.

E~NO-WM_180200_01_Cover.indd 1

1/5/18 10:36 AM

COVER PROMOTION Designer Serena Gili's cashmere beaded top with golden fiberglass skirt, part of the New Orleans Museum of Art's "A Queen Within: Adorned Archetypes" exhibit. ©SAGA SIG

CONNECT WITH US

where now

XX

66

PLANTATION COUNTRY

Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road. Plus a fresh perspective on the past.

16 Out + About

34 must-catch Mardi Gras parades and a double helping of red beans.

18 Hot Tips

Costuming exhibits and gay Carnival chronicled.

19 Local Flavor

25 things we love about New Orleans.

20 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER

NAVIGATE

Pancake Day, Freret Street eats and killer king cakes.

8 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

MAPS

Explore the city from north to south and A to Z page 69-71

(LEFT) ©MATTHEW MURPHY; (CENTER, TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (CENTER, BOTTOM) ©SHAYA

Curated Crescent City itineraries for LGBTQ visitors, music lovers and outdoor enthusiasts.

FEBRUARY 2018 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

ENTERTAINMENT

YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

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10 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE

Isabelle Van Bockel Concierge at the JW Marriott Q: Dozens of Mardi Gras parades pass in front of the JW Marriott. Which would you recommend?

A: Definitely the big parades. I love Endymion and Bacchus; both are really beautiful. The problem with big parades is they can become very crowded, so I suggest guests view them from Common and St. Charles rather than on Canal Street. I also recommend the Barkus parade in the French Quarter; it’s all about dogs.

Q: What is your favorite Carnival tradition?

When I first moved here I didn’t eat king cake; it was too cinnamon-y for me. But several years ago I started, and now I can’t stop!

Q: Suggest a place for a romantic Valentine’s dinner.

The courtyard at Café Amelie (p. 25) comes to mind. Or Curio (p. 25); watching the sunset from its wraparound balcony is very romantic and very New Orleans.

Q: Flowers or chocolates?

Both. For flowers, I use Barbara’s Flowers, a small shop in the Quarter that has beautiful bouquets. For chocolates, Sucré (p.

28). I love their European-style chocolate pralines. They are to die for, like everything else there.

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©SUCRÉ

Q: What do you love most about New Orleans?

There’s a French saying, je ne sais quoi. In my opinion that describes New Orleans. It’s hard to really pinpoint what you love about this city—the food, the music, the history, the silly traditions—it’s everything!

Sucré

11

EDITOR’S NOTE DOUG BRANTLEY

A LOOK BACK

PIANO LOUNGE • PATIO • RESTAURANT

EAT, DRINK &

Where We Were This year marks Where New Orleans’ 50th anniversary. To commemorate the mid-century milestone, we opened our archives, dusted off back issues and throughout 2018 will be revisiting years past. This month we set the wayback machine to 1977.

The week of Feb. 19 featured a cover illustration depicting Henry “The Fonz” Winkler as king of Bacchus towering over the Superdome. Wolfman Jack served as master of ceremonies for the Bacchus Ball, where Chuck Berry, Bo Diddley, the Shirelles, Professor Longhair and Doug Kershaw performed.

Mardi Gras counted 56 parades, including the krewes of Mecca, Hestia, Momus and Venus, which no longer roll.

Lawrence Welk and his Champagne Music Makers held court at the Municipal Auditorium, the Pontalba Buildings housed a “historical puppetorium and animated museum,” the Chris Owens Club promised “continuous action” and Jazzfest featured Ella Fitzgerald, Eubie Blake, Charles Mingus, Sonny Rollins, Natalie Cole and Bonnie Raitt.

The New Orleans Pelicans were a baseball team and at the Pearl Factory customers dove into buckets “in search of their own treasure.”

Paul Prudhomme still commanded the kitchen at Commander’s Palace (where entrees ranged from $4 to $10.50), Joe Fein’s Lenfant’s Seafood Restaurant touted “parking for 1,000 cars” and Bourbon Street’s Ye Olde Court Tavern was “where night people gather.”

Get going! Explore the city at wheretraveler.com.

in the world

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Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Indianapolis, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

WHERE CALENDAR FEBRUARY

For more information: wheretraveler.com

Search the full New Orleans calendar at wheretraveler.com

TOP STOPS 20 additional events and ideas worth entertaining.

HOT DATES

FEBRUARY 13:

Mardi Gras Day

The big quandary on Fat Tuesday isn’t a question of whether to costume (the answer is yes!), but more where and when to begin the daylong party. Do you station yourself among the throngs of families along St. Charles Avenue or set up camp on Canal Street? Do you catch the Zulu and Rex parades Uptown or stick to the French Quarter for the Society of St. Anne procession and the colorful Bourbon Street Awards? Do you pace yourself for the very full day ahead or dive right in at 8 am?

Wherever you end up, you’re sure to experience “the greatest free show on earth.”

"The Color Purple"

caption here "The Founding Era"

6

Great Things Not to Be Missed

1 FAMILY GRAS > FEB. 2 & 3 This kid-friendly fete in nearby Metairie offers interactive games, an art market and performances by national music acts, followed by nightly parades. Veterans Blvd. and Causeway Blvd., Metairie; familygras.com

JOHN PRINE > FEB. 2 The “Angel From Montgomery” lands in New Orleans. Catch the “songwriter’s songwriter” and Grammy Hall of Fame inductee at the Orpheum Theater. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4870 2

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online: wheretraveler.com

3 ST. VINCENT > FEB. 19 The convention-defying singer/songwriter/guitarist/indie queen pulls into town in support of her latest album “Masseducation.” Civic Theatre, 510 O’Keefe St.; civicnola.com

14 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

4 THE COLOR PURPLE > FEB. 2024 The recent Broadway revival of the musical adaptation of Alice Walker’s Pulitzer-winning novel earned two Tonys. You’ll understand why when the traveling production hits the Saenger Theatre. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000

DEAD & COMPANY > FEB. 24 Grateful Dead members Mickey Hart, Bill Kreutzmann and Bob Weir get truckin’ with singer/guitarist John Mayer, Allman Brothers bassist Oteil Burbridge and RatDog keyboardist Jeff Chimenti at the Smoothie King Center. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000 5

NEW ORLEANS, THE FOUNDING ERA > BEGINNING FEB. 27 The Historic New Orleans Collection salutes the city’s 300th anniversary with this free, wide-ranging exhibit, which explores the area's early evolution through a variety of rare artifacts. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662 6

HOUSE OF BLUES Feb. 8: The Devil Makes Three; Feb. 15: Lalah Hathaway; Feb. 19: Andrea Gibson; Feb. 24: Tab Benoit; Feb. 27: K. Michelle.

225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583; hob.com JOY THEATER Feb. 5: Børns; Feb. 8: Lettuce; Feb. 21: Rebelution; Feb. 22: Revolution; Feb. 24: Gramatik. 1200 Canal St., 504.528.9569; thejoytheater.com MAHALIA JACKSON THEATER Feb 3 & 4: “Shen Yun.” 801 N. Rampart St., 504.745.3000; mahaliajacksontheater.com SAENGER THEATRE Feb. 1-4: “An American in Paris”; Feb. 17: “C.S. Lewis Onstage: The Most Reluctant Convert.” 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000 ; saengernola.com SMOOTHIE KING CENTER New Orleans Pelicans Home Games—Feb. 5: vs. Utah Jazz; Feb. 7: vs.

Indiana Pacers; Feb. 14: vs. Los Angeles Lakers; Feb. 23: vs. Miami Heat; Feb. 26: vs. Phoenix Suns. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000; smoothiekingcenter. com

(TOP) ©PHOTOSERVICE/ISTOCK.COM; (CENTER) ©MATTHEW MURPHY; (BOTTOM) ©PEABODY MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY AND ETHNOLOGY, HARVARD UNIVERSITY EXPEDITION, PEABODY MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY AND ETHNOLOGY, HARVARD UNIVERSITY, 1902

CIVIC THEATRE Feb 23: Pop-Up Magazine: A Night of Stories; Feb 27: Beth Hart. 510 O'Keefe St.; civicnola. com

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OUT+ABOUT

Catch ’Em (All) If You Can PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Carnival season shifts into high gear this month with dozens of parades—both planned and impromptu—hitting the streets before the big blowout on Mardi Gras Day.

Endymion

w w w.wheretraveler.c o m

Hermes

Rex

‘tit Rex

(TOP, FROM LEFT) ©SHAWN FINK; ©CHERYL GERBER; ©SHAWN FINK; ©CHERYL GERBER; (BOTTOM) ©SHAWN FINK; (OPENING PAGE) ©JCARILLET/ISTOCK.COM

FEB. 2: KREWE OF CORK (French Quarter, 3 pm) OK, so this one’s really a foot procession. Still, there’s no better way to kick off the first full weekend of parades than by catching this wine-fueled troupe as it wobbles through the Vieux Carré.

OSHUN (Uptown, 6 pm) CLEOPATRA (Uptown, 6:30 pm)

FEB. 3: PONTCHARTRAIN (Uptown, 1 pm) CHOCTAW (Uptown, 2 pm) FRERET (Uptown, 3 pm) ’TIT REX (Marigny, 5 pm) The season’s smallest parade is big on charm. Shrinking away from the multistory floats of larger parades, ’tit Rex’s pint-sized creations begin life as a shoebox and are best viewed stooped over.

Get there early: This micro-parade passes by in a microsecond.

SPARTA (Uptown, 6 pm) PYGMALLION (Uptown, 6:15 pm) CHEWBACCHUS (Marigny, 7 pm) What began in 2011 as a lark quickly morphed into Carnival’s largest DIY krewe, now 2,000

members strong.

The secret to its success? “Our formula is simple,” reads Chewbacchus’ mission statement. “Bacchanalian revelry + Sci Fi = BacchanALIENS.”

FEB. 4: FEMME FATALE (Uptown, 11 am) CARROLLTON (Uptown, noon) KING ARTHUR (Uptown, 12:30 pm) ALLA (Uptown, 1 pm) BARKUS (French Quarter, 2 pm) Mardi Gras goes to the dogs with this family friendly parade of costumed canines and their equally outlandish owners.

FEB. 7: DRUIDS (Uptown, 6:30 pm) NYX (Uptown, 7 pm) Established as an easy-to-join alternative to popular Muses, this all-girl group proved so sucessful that in 2015 the city council proclaimed it the largest all-female parading krewe in Mardi Gras history, with close to 3,000 members.

FEB. 8: KNIGHTS OF BABYLON (Uptown, 5:30 pm) CHAOS (Uptown, 6:15 pm)

Barkus

MUSES (Uptown, 6:30 pm) All heel Muses! Since its debut in 2001, this woman-powered krewe has positioned itself as a Carnival favorite. Known for its signature shoe float, Muses also counts one of the season’s most coveted throws: hand-glittered heels.

FEB. 9: HERMES (Uptown, 6 pm) Created in the wake of the Great Depression in an effort to boost public moral and draw tourists, Hermes, known for its artistry and craftsmanship, continues to rank among Carnival’s best night parades.

KREWE D’ETAT (Uptown, 6:30 pm) MORPHEUS (Uptown, 7 pm)

FEB 10: IRIS (Uptown, 11 am) TUCKS (Uptown, noon) ENDYMION (Mid-City, 4:15 pm) They don’t get much bigger than this.

Hardcore paradegoers stake out the route days in advance for prime spots to catch Carnival’s largest and most generous krewe. Endymion’s motto: “Throw until it hurts.”

FEB. 11:

FEB. 12:

OKEANOS (Uptown, 11 am) MIDCITY (Uptown, 11:45 am) THOTH (Uptown, noon) BACCHUS (Uptown, 5:15 pm) This behemoth started the “superkrewe” craze 50 years ago and was the first to crown a celebrity king (Danny Kaye in 1969).

This year actor J.K. Simmons (“Whiplash,” “Law & Order”) takes on the royalty role.

PROTEUS (Uptown, 5:15 pm) ORPHEUS (Uptown, 6 pm) Harry Connick Jr.’s music-based krewe never fails to entertain with its celebrity riders and massive floats. Keep an eye peeled for the Dolly Trolly, featured in the film “Hello, Dolly!”

FEB. 13: ZULU (Uptown, 8 am) For more than a cen-

tury, this largely African-American krewe has been charming parade-goers (and irking the members of Rex) with its early morning antics. Two words to remember: golden coconuts.

REX (Uptown, 10 am) Pomp and pageantry are the King of Carnival’s trademarks.

Catch the procession in front of Gallier Hall, where Rex and the mayor exchange toasts.

MORE BEANS, PLEASE Red beans and rice is a New Orleans Monday meal tradition. So it’s little wonder the Krewe of Red Beans’ parade, with members decked out in legume-decorated duds, would become a Lundi Gras must-see over the past decade. This year the bean scene grows even bigger with a new offshoot, the Dead Beans—featuring bean-and-rice skeletons and bean mosaics honoring recently deceased celebrities— forming its own route. Similar to the Red Beans’ signature “Beanmobile” (a Volkswagon covered in beans from roof to floorboards), the Dead Beans will roll out a beaned Cadillac hearse. The Red Beans parade starts in the Marigny (725 St. Ferdinand St.) Feb. 12 at 2 pm, while the Dead Beans begin at the same time in Mid-City (1400 Moss St.). Making stops at bars and clubs along the way, the two groups will eventually meet up at the Candlelight Lounge (925 N. Robertson St.) in Tremé, where, no doubt, they’ll be serving red beans and rice.

Krewe of Red Beans

17

WHERE NOW New

Orleans

Germaine Cazenave Wells Mardi Gras Museum

“A Queen Within”

HOT TIPS

The Art of Dress-Up Don’t arrive until after Fat Tuesday? You can still catch the Carnival spirit at local museums, which feature a variety of costuming exhibits.

BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM This former funeral parlor (where the North Side Skulls & Bones Gang kicks off its Mardi Gras morning romp) is the perfect place to study up on Mardi Gras Indian traditions and other African-American Carnival celebrations.

1116 Henriette Delille St., 504.606.4809 GERMAINE CAZENAVE WELLS MARDI GRAS MUSEUM Wells, the daughter of Arnaud’s restaurant founder Arnaud Cazenave, reigned over more Mardi Gras balls than anyone else in Carnival history. Numerous gowns and costumes are displayed for free on the second floor of the century-old eatery. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433 HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION Continuing through Feb. 25, Mardi Gras at Home at the Williams Residence offers insight into mid-20th-century celebrations with rare costume designs, Carnival jewels, favors and other items. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662 LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS The Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana 18 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

exhibit at the Presbytère features scepters, tiaras and a wide array of Fat Tuesday finery, from royalty regalia to Cajun Courir du Mardi Gras outfits. Jackson Square, 504.568.6968 MARDI GRAS MUSEUM OF COSTUMES AND CULTURE Culled from the private collection of costumer Carl Mack, this space overflows with featherand-beaded Mardi Gras Indian suits, ornate ball attire and creative homemade get-ups.

1010 Conti St., 504.218.4872 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART Bror Anders Wikstrom: Bringing Fantasy to Carnival spotlights the early Mardi Gras influencer through his elaborate float and costume designs for Rex and the Krewe of Proteus. More fashion-focused than costumecentric, A Queen Within: Adorned Archetypes spotlights such boundary-pushing designers as Alexander McQueen, Pam Hogg, Comme des Garçons and Iris van Hepen. Opening Feb. 21 the exhibit explores feminine iconography through more than 100 gowns, jewelry and shoes. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle, 504.658.4100

With all its glitter, sequins and creativity, Mardi Gras has long served as a high holiday of sorts for the gay community. But it wasn’t until the late 1950s that New Orleans’ first gay Carnival organization, the Krewe of Yuga, formed. Others (Petronius, Amon-Ra, Satyricon) soon followed, mounting elaborate costumed balls in secretive locations around the city.

But due to the repressive climate of the era—and, later, the devastation of AIDS—much of gay Carnival history has gone undocumented.

Author Howard Philips Smith rectifies that with Unveiling the Muse: Phunny Phorty Phellows The Lost History of Gay Carnival in New Orleans (University Press of Mississippi). The culmination of two decades of research, Smith’s loving look back brings long-ago balls to life via personal accounts and rarely seen ephemera, while putting gay cultural contributions into larger context.

You’ll find Smith discussing the project Jan. 31, from 6 to 7:30 pm, at the Historic New Orleans Collection (p.

50), where you’ll also find signed copies of his book in the gift shop.

(TOP, LEFT) ©ARNAUD’S; (TOP, RIGHT) ©IRIS VAN HEPEN; (BOTTOM) ©UNIVERSITY PRESS OF MISSISSIPPI

Out of the Carnival Closet

w w w.wheretraveler.c o m

LOCAL FLAVOR

25 Things We Love About New Orleans In honor of the city’s tricentennial, each month during 2018 we are highlighting a few of our favorite things (25 x 12 = 300).

Have one of your own? Share it with us at wheretraveler.com, and we’ll consider it for the next issue.

1

13

2

14

3

15 16

Downing brandy milk punch during breakfast at Brennan’s (p.

24), where the term “eye-opener” originated.

Derby Pottery’s (p. 33) reproductions of 19th-century Crescent City street tiles.

“Queen of Creole cuisine” Leah Chase still cookin’ at age 95 at Dooky Chase (p. 29).

Peering into the wine cavern at Antoine’s through its rear window (between 519 and 520 Royal Street).

Stumbling upon amazing brass bands performing in the streets (be sure to tip!).

4

Guessing at the price of that Blue Dog in the window at Rodrigue Studio (p. 42).

The open-hearth cooking demos at the historic Hermann-Grima House (p. 50).

17

Actor Brad Pitt’s Make It Right Foundation’s making good on its promise to rebuild the Lower 9th Ward.

4

5 (TOP) ©RODRIGUE STUDIO; (CENTER, LEFT) ©BRENNAN’S; (CENTER, RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©SHAWN FINK

Tipping our chapeaux to Southern gentility at Meyer the Hatter (p. 35).

18

The warm muffulettas and peeling walls at the Napoleon House (p. 27).

6

Seeing how many king cake babies we can collect during Carnival season.

7 8

19 20

Dancing in the lanes at Rock ’n’ Bowl (p. 56).

Clamoring for coconuts at the Zulu parade.

Repenting for Saturday night sins during the Sunday morning gospel brunch at the House of Blues (p. 56).

Bead-strung balconies along Bourbon Street.

1

11

Stealing tricks of the trade—then eating the evidence—at the New Orleans School of Cooking (p. 46).

21

Setting a nightly table for the resident ghost at Muriel’s Jackson Square. (p. 27).

9

T-Boy the Nutria, the Audubon Zoo’s (p. 45) answer to Punxsutawney Phil, who emerges from his swamp hole on Groundhog Day (Feb. 2).

22

Artist Terrance Osborne’s (p. 43) colorful depictions of local life.

10

“Makin’ groceries” at the French Market (p. 46), the nation’s oldest public produce mart.

23

11

The Royal Sonesta Hotel’s (p.

71) annual Greasing of the Poles ceremony (Feb. 9 at 10 am).

24

12

25

The New Orleans Museum of Art’s ever-expanding outdoor sculpture garden (p. 50).

The Dueling Oak in City Park (p. 45), where affairs d’honneur were conducted during the early 1800s.

The Skull & Bones Gang raising the dead on Mardi Gras morning.

24

Historic Congo Square in Armstrong Park (p. 45), the epicenter of jazz.

19

Orleans Canal Street Bistro

Hot Dish What’s new and notable on Freret Street.

FOOD+DRINK

Stack ’Em High There is a connection between pancakes and Mardi Gras. No, really. In commonwealth countries, the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday (which we call Fat Tuesday) is known as Shrove Tuesday or “Pancake Day.” Shrove is a form of shrive, which means to seek absolution. In short, the Christian practice of gorging and excess on Fat Tuesday is a last hurrah before Lent. Believe it or not, pancakes are considered decadent because they are made with extravagant ingredients—eggs, butter, milk, sugar—to be used up before the food austerity of the Lenten season.

New Orleans, lately a very serious breakfast town, has a fine list of places for great stacks.

For a basic pancake, pull into the Trolley Stop Café (1923 St. Charles Ave, 504.523.0090), a 24/7 place that also gilds the lily with a divinely sweet Bavarian creamtopped pancake. On the more fancy side there’s the insanely delicious, butter-bomb pancakes at Carrollton Market (p. 29) that come with top-quality Vermont maple syrup and smoky slices of crisp Benton’s bacon.

Canal Street Bistro (p. 29) plates up an incredible list of pancake options, both regular and gluten-free. Ask them to add some house granola to the basic batter for an incredible combination of tender pancake and crunchy bits.

Do not miss the butter-drenched, souffléed German pancakes.

Basic pancake batter is also an easy flavor playground. Red

Gravy (p. 23) uses browned butter to bolster its blend. There are also powdered sugar-dusted, cannoli-filled pancakes topped with cream. Satsuma Café (p. 28) has a daily pancake depending on whim and season; recently there was a tart-sweet ginger-cranberry version. The Ruby Slipper (p.

28), known for its over-the-top pancakes like Cinnamon Swirl and Bacon Praline, also does a “Pancake of the Day,” which has in the past included Red Velvet.

At Slim Goodies (3222 Magazine St., 504.891.3447) there are six different choices. Go for the earthy sweet potato or an egg-in-themiddle Todd Joy. Partake in tradition. There are many ways to flip for pancakes on Shrove Tuesday—or any day in New Orleans. —Lorin Gaudin

20 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

IACOVONE KITCHEN Chef Bob Iacovone made his bones as a fine dining chef at dearly departed Cuvee. Pulling from some of his popular dishes and all of his talent, his new venture is a prepared-food café he opened with his wife, Joanna, who works the register. Frequent menu changes feature old favorites, such as short rib and handmade pasta, along with some new inspirations.

Tuck into the fridge for pints of Bacon Chicken Salad, Crab Rangoon Dip or one of the stellar soups.

5033 Freret St., 504.533.9742 FRERET BEER ROOM From a table at one of the picture windows, enjoy a beer (organized by flavor notes) while contemplating a bite to eat. The diverse menu is fun and intriguing with dishes like steamed mussels with smoked oyster-tomato aioli, chicken confit with veg or the two-hands-needed burger dressed with Gruyere, smoked mushrooms and licorice-y

tarragon aioli. For dessert: butterscotch pudding. 5018 Freret St., 504.298.7468 BAR FRANCES Chef Mimi Assad’s bistro is warm and homey, and her food is divine. Start with whipped feta and toasty country bread before diving into seafood stew or an excellent hanger steak and fries with Bordelaise. The weekend brunch is a favorite for Baked Eggs with Stewed Tomatoes & Greens, Brioche French Toast with chantilly cream or the Buttermilk Biscuit & Bacon Gravy with Fried Chicken.

4525 Freret St., 504.371.5043 —LG

Freret Beer Room

LAST BITE King cake is one of Carnival season’s sweetest traditions. Every year battles are waged over who makes the best, and there is always a quest for the wildest (peanut butter/banana/bacon/ marshmallow, anyone?). We’ll probably eat our collective weight in king cake, but this year we’re definitely going both sweet and salty with pastry chef Bronwen Wyatt’s braided ring of chocolatecinnamon babka—a flaky, layered yeast cake crowned with an anise-scented, candied crumb topping—at Shaya (p. 29, shown) and chef Maggie Scales’ soft pretzel king cake—dusted with purple, green and gold salt and served with a side of whole grain mustard—at Cochon (p.

22) and La Boulangerie (p. 29). Follow our lead.

When it comes to loving and eating king cake, there is no wrong. —LG

(TOP) ©LORIN GAUDIN; (CENTER) ©FRERET BEER ROOM; (BOTTOM) ©SHAYA

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the guide Dining February

Rooms to Make You Swoon

Poke, Mon

Oysters and chocolate are known for their aphrodisiac qualities, but an amorous evening out also requires the right romantic atmosphere. Commander’s Palace (p. 28) has been wooing fine-dining lovers since the 1970s. Reserve the padded corner booth in the main dining room, where 3-D birds pop out from the wallpaper. Refined Restaurant R’evolution (p. 28) ups the elegance ante with Limoges china and purse stools, while Cavan (p. 29) charms with its worn 19th-century grandeur and The Country Club (p. 28, shown) sets contemporary hearts aflutter with massive murals of local flora. A little alone time? Tuck into one of velvet-curtained booths at the Bombay Club (p. 24).

Over the past year, poke—the Hawaiian street food combining rice, protein (fish, chicken, tofu) and veg—has established a strong local following. Get a taste of the growing trend at Poke Loa (p. 28, shown) or Poke-Chan (2809 St. Claude Ave., 504.571.5446), both of which offer buildyour-own bowls as well as specialty options.

Central Business/ Warehouse District

EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flag-

homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as open-face pot roast sandwiches and s’mores pie. $ L, D (daily). www.nationalww2museum.org/american-sector.

945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 BRIQUETTESeafood. Contemporary coastal is the

catch at this sprawling Warehouse District space.

Follow the lobster-andouille tamale with a lump crab-and-pickled mirliton salad then dive into broiled sea scallops with cheddar grits or a grilled whole redfish. $$$ D (nightly). 701 S. Peters St., 504.302.7496. Map 3, C6 CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the

standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5 22 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on simple standards, such as deepfried hog head cheese with field peas or rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (daily). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7 COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia,

chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes, roasted jerk corn and curried goat with plantain gnocchi. For dessert? A horchata panna cotta with compressed melon, of course. $$ L, (M-F); D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.comperelapin.com. 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6 CRAZY LOBSTER Seafood. Huge buckets of

steamed seafood is the draw at this riverfront restaurant, where the lobster never runs out, the rest of the crowd can dig into some spicy Cajun fare and you can all while away an afternoon watching the ships sail by. $$ L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the river, across from Harrah’s), 504.569.3380. Map 3, E7

ship sets the course for the Lagasse empire.

Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6 GRAND ISLE Seafood. This comfy seafood house

boasts such standouts as crab-and-brie handpies, crispy calamari, fisherman’s stew and other Southern favorites. $$ L, D (daily). www.grandislerestaurant.com. 575 Convention Center Blvd., 504.520.8530. Map 3, D6 HERBSAINT French. One of the city’s premier fine

dining spots. James Beard Award-winning chef Rebecca Wilcomb’s menu changes fequently, with entrées ranging from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.herbsaint.com. 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5 JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian. At this casual Ace

Hotel eatery snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked,

(LEFT) ©THE COUNTRY CLUB; (RIGHT) ©POKE LOA

THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic

COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be

DINING

the pastas are toothy and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. $$ B (M-F); L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.josephineestelle.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5 MAYPOPVietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta

(MoPho) expands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrial-terrarium vibe. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. $$$ L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.maypoprestaurant.com. 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4

MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s new casual

dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerilsrestaurants. com/meril. 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6 NEW ORLEANS SOCIAL HOUSE Contemporary.

Noshing on sharable small plates—lobster tacos, bison sliders, salmon tartines—while sipping craft cocktails and wine, is the idea here.

Live music nightly. $$ D (nightly), Br (Su). www. noshneworleans.com. 752 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.581.1103. Map 3, C6

PÊCHE Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjew-

ski (the award-winning team behind pork-centric Cochon) have another winner on their hands.

The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (daily). www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 POPPY’S TIME OUT SPORTS BAR & GRILL American. Sports fans will score here. Along with gour-

met burgers, personalized pizzas and a variety of wings, this riverside restaurant and bar features 22 beers on tap (including a full line of locally made Abita brews), live music and big-screen TVs. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the Mississippi River across from Harrah’s Casino), 504.247.9265. Map 3, E7 RED GRAVY Italian. This cozy brunch bistro is

known for its traditional Italian dishes and notso-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Skillet cakes, waffles, overstuffed sandwiches, handmade pasta and baked goods round out the menu. $$ Open W-M. www.redgravycafe.com. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5 SEAWORTHYSeafood. This chic offshoot of New

York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. Caviar, creative cocktails and a stellar wine selection round out the menu. $$ D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). www.seaworthynola.com. 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5 WILLA JEAN BAKERY Bakery. Pastry chef Kelly

Fields, known for her beautiful baked goods, shows off her savory sides as well in dishes such as braised lamb pasta with mint pesto. Need a biscuit? This is the place. $$ B, L (M-F); D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.willajean.com. 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4

French Quarter ACME OYSTER HOUSE Seafood. For locals, the

name Acme is synonymous with raw oysters. Since 1910, Acme’s signature marble-topped bar has served up countless bivalves on the half shell.

Other regional specialties include fried oyster po’boys, gumbo Poopa and jambalaya. $$ L, D (daily). www.acmeoyster.com. 724 Iberville St., 504.522.5973. Map 3, E4; 3000 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.309.4056. Map 1, C2; 8 Canal St. (inside Harrah’s Casino), 504.708.2409. Map 3, E6 ANGELINESouthern. Chef Alex Harrell’s Alabama

upbringing informs the menu at his casually elegant eatery. Consider the black-eyed pea and collard green soup, crispy smoked pork cheeks with cornbread puree and the country ham-wrapped rabbit leg. $$$ D (W-Su); Br (FSu). www.angelinenola.com. 1032 Chartres St., 504.308.3106. Map 3, H4 ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s

is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch.

Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 23

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h.

Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).

Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................22

French Quarter........................................................................................23 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 28 Marigny/Bywater.....................................................................................28 Mid-City..........................................................................................................29 Uptown..........................................................................................................29

ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining

rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm.

“Shrimp Arnaud,” “Oysters Bienville” and “Café Brûlot” are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); jazz brunch (Su). www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BAYONA American. Nestled in a 200-year-old

Creole cottage, Bayona continues its reign as one of the city’s best restaurants. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. $$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). www. bombayclubneworleans.com. 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3

Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

BOMBAY CLUB Louisiana. At this swanky spot in the

Prince Conti Hotel cultures combine in dishes such as boudin Scotch eggs, gnocchi with pork cheek Bolognese and Abita beer-battered fish and chips.

Great cocktails and live music nightly. $$ D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.bayona.com. 830 Conti St., 504.577.2237. Map 3, F4 BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to

Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse.com.

144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S Creole. Breakfast at Brennan’s is

back on the New Orleans menu. Now under the helm of new owner Ralph Brennan and executive chef Slade Rushing, the legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contempo-

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

24 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18 NO-WM_091200_Pascal'sManale.indd1 1

11/5/09 10:14:49 AM

DINING

rary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (daily). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 BROUSSARD’S Creole. Broussard’s, established in

1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots, with one of the most elegant courtyards in the Quarter. Chef Jake Shapiro serves up longpopular classics, such as broiled black drum with rosemary-mustard crust and ginger-apple glaze.

Tradition never tasted so good. $$$ D (nightly); jazz brunch (F-Su). www.broussards.com. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ AMELIE Louisiana. Located in a gorgeous

French Quarter courtyard and carriage house, this is the perfect spot for a leisurely outdoor lunch or romantic dinner. Try the crab cakes with citrus drizzle, satsuma and pepper-glazed shrimp or a seasonal cocktail. $$ L (W-F), D (W-Su), Br (Sa-Su). A quick-service offshoot, Petite Amelie, offers takeout just next door (900 Royal St., 504.412.8065). www.cafeamelie.com. 912 Royal St., 504.412.8965. Map 3, H4 CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Light fare, café drinks, and

delicious beignets are the draw at these comfy French Quarter coffeehouses. $ B, L, D (daily).

Traditional jazz performances at the Bourbon Street location daily, beginning at 8 am. www. cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; B, L, D (daily) 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554 Map 3, G5 CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. No visit to the Crescent

City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait (made with ground chicory root) and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 CLOVER GRILL American. The prospect of big juicy

burgers, overstuffed omelets and a cheeky version of retro 1950s ambiance draws all walks of life to this Bourbon Street institution at all hours. The theatrics on both sides of the counter are often worthy of a Fellini film. $ Open 24 hours. www.clovergrill. com. 900 Bourbon St., 504.598.1010. Map 3, H4 COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French

Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu.

Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. $$ D (nightly). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CURIOAmerican. Curious what “American cuisine

with Creole soul” tastes like? Think grit tots with roasted red pepper coulis, black-eyed pea-andduck gumbo, “pastrami shrimp” Reubens and grilled salmon with farro-heirloom tomato salad. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.curionola.com.

301 Royal St., 504.717.4198. Map 3, F4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An

Enjoy an afternoon drink in our courtyard.

510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces—try the barbecue rib-eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters. Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. $$ D (nightly). www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 25

THE GUIDE

DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks. A stunning steak-

house and butcher shop with superior quality dryaged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list, though the handsome remodel of the historic space is alone worth a visit. $$$ L (F-Su), D (nightly). www.dorismetropolitan.com. 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4 GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s

has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 GW FINS Seafood. Owners Gary Wollerman and

chef Tenney Flynn have taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. $$ D (nightly). www.gwfins.com. 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4 HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain,

filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet and Fats Domino’s autographed piano top. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4 ITALIAN BARREL Italian. The focus here is on fine,

Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso bucotopped polenta and top-notch tiramisu. A fullbodied Italian wine selection is also offered. $$$ L, D (daily). www.italianbarrel.com. 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5 KPAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-

personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience. His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including okra gumbo, jambalaya, bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. $ Deli L (Th-Sa), $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KILLER PO’BOYS Contemporary. This tiny hole-in-

the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw or the seared shrimp with sriracha aioli. $ B, L, D (W-M). www.killerpoboys. com. 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4 KINGFISH Louisiana. “New Louisiana” is the

concept at this popular dining spot, with creative spins on local standards such as fried deviled duck eggs on arugula with candy-pecan vinaigrette and cochon de lait with cracklin-crusted boudin cake. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.kingfishneworleans.com. 337 Chartres St., 504.598.5005. Map 3, F4 KRYSTAL American. Since 1932 Krystal has been

satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers, making it the oldest quick-service chain in

26 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

DINING

Indulge

in Family Traditions at Antoine’s Restaurant for Lunch, Dinner and Sunday Jazz Brunch!

the Southeast. $ 24h (daily). www.krystal.com. 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4 MEAUXBAR French. French bistro standards

tweaked with a thoughtful, modern hand.

Signature dishes include saffron-laced mussels nestled in a flavor-packed broth and crowned with crisp hand-cut fries. $$ L (F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.meauxbar.com. 942 N. Rampart St., 504.569.9979. Map 3, H3 MORTON’S Steaks. Located just steps from the

French Quarter, this renowned steakhouse holds as much character as the world-famous destination itself. With its USDA prime-aged beef, succulent seafood and infinite wine selection, Morton’s is the perfect destination for an unparalleled dining experience. $$$ D (nightly). www.mortons. com. 365 Canal St. (in the Shops at Canal Place), 504.566.0221. Map 3, E5 MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is

504-581-4422 www.a ntoines.com 713 Rue Saint Louis New Orl ea ns, LA 70130

another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp, bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce and the white chocolate brownie. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Su). www.mrbsbistro.com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 MURIEL’S JACKSON SQUARE Creole. Overlooking

Jackson Square, Muriel’s features several dining rooms and a cozy bar. Enjoy chef Erik Venéy’s contemporary Creole dishes such as crawfish-andgoat cheese crepes, pecan-crusted puppy drum and pain perdu bread pudding. $$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa, Su jazz brunch). www.muriels.com. 801 Chartres St., 504.568.1885. Map 3, G4 NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never

slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L, D (daily). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole.

Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 NOLA American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter

Contemporary Coastal Cuisine 701 S. Peters St. 504-302-7496 www.briquette-nola.com

Now Serving Lunch

bistro recently received a full makeover to mark its 25th anniversary. The new small plates-focused menu is perfect for table-sampling its 40-plus dishes. Standouts include the hot frog legs, stuffed chicken wings with peanut sauce and smoked crab cheesecake boulettes. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerils. com. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana. At former

Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery, diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com.

132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-

rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com.

605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 27

THE GUIDE

RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4 REMOULADE Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this

très casual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant, serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. The young waiters may wear T-shirts, but much of the food is surprisingly sophisticated. $ L, D (daily). www.remoulade.com.

309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Famed

chefs John Folse and Rick Taramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.revolutionnola.com. 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 RUBY SLIPPER CAFÉAmerican. Multiple locations,

locally roasted coffee and signature Benedicts with Louisiana flavors (Gulf shrimp, pork debris, tasso) make this all-day breakfast spot a winner. $ B, L (daily). www.therubyslippercafe.net. 1005 Canal St., 504.525.9355. Map 3, E3; 2001 Burgundy St. Map 3, J4; 200 Magazine St. Map 3, D5; 2802 Magazine St. Map 1, D4; 315 Broad St. Map 1, D3 SOBOU Contemporary. The focus at this “south of

Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez’s amazing selection of small plates (order the shrimp-and-tasso pinchos with grilled pineapple). $$ B (daily), L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.sobounola.com. 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4 SYLVAIN Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers

dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub just off Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as “Chick Syl-vain” sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. $$ D (nightly); brunch (F-Su). www.sylvainnola.com. 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4 TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit

Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef John Martin. $$ B (M-F), L (daily), D (nightly); Br (SaSu). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4 TRINITY Louisiana. The menu here pays homage

to the “trinity” of flavors, elements and techniques in New Orleans cuisine. Hush puppies get richness from duck fat, while the cucumber salad refreshes with crisp apples and pairs perfectly with the citrusy seared snapper. $$$ D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). www.trinityrestaurantneworleans.com. 1117 Decatur St., 504.325.5789. Map 3, I5 TUJAGUE’S Creole. Open since 1856, Tujague’s

(“two-jacks”) ranks as one of the city’s oldest eateries. The restaurant serves a traditional Creole prix fixe menu (shrimp remoulade and beef brisket to start, followed by a choice of entrée and pecan pie), along with contemporary a la carte offerings. $$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.tujaguesrestaurant. com. 823 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, H5 28 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

Garden District/ Lower Garden District COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved

turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers.

Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE French. What do you get when you

mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where chef Michael Stoltzfus’ menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have crab cakes making repeat appearances. $$$ D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.coquettenola.com. 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4 POKE LOA Hawaiian. This bright spot offers

build-your-own poke bowls of tuna, yellowtail, salmon and/or tofu cubes atop fresh greens and rice, veggies and array of garnishes (edamame, fish roe, etc.). $ L, D (daily) www.eatpokeloa.com.

3341 Magazine St., 504.309.9993. Map 1, D4; 701 Metairie Rd., 504.605.4184. Map 3, C2 SUCRÉ Dessert. This chic spot is worth a visit for

the décor alone. But while you’re there, might as well try some of the elegant chocolates, house-made gelato and must-have macarons. $ Open daily. www.shopsucre.com. 3025 Magazine St., 504.520.8311. Map 1, D4; 622 Conti St., 504.267.7098. Map 3, F4 TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches are

the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, chicken fried steak, crab meat and crab boil potatoes served open-face. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. $ L (WM). www.turkeyandthewolf.com. 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/

bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Chef Joaquin Rodas serves up “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com.

600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3 THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. Known for its swim-

ming pool, this long-popular Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crabmeat beignets, clams and chorizo), salads, sandwiches or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. $$$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.thecountryclubneworleans.com. 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3 PRALINE CONNECTION Creole. Soul food at its

best, including the Connection platter (fried pickles, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com. 542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5 SATSUMA CAFÉ Eclectic. At this hipster hangout

vegan and veg-friendly dishes, such as chilled corn-and-lime soup and goat cheese-stuffed French toast, are the draw, along with stunning fresh-pressed vegetable and fruit juices. $ B, L (daily). www.satsumacafe.com. 3218 Dauphine

DINING

St., 504.304.5962. Map 1, E3; 7901 Maple St., 504.309.5557. Map 1, D3 ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this

long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character and 24 steel columns. The stunning space features 13 food vendors, along with a bar and both indoor and outdoor dining. $ L, D (daily). www.strochmarket.com. 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. Map 1, E3 THREE MUSES Eclectic. This Frenchmen Street

hot spot offers a clubby vibe, live music, smart cocktails and amazing eats. Raves are drawn for the menu’s variety and chef Daniel Esses’ stellar preparations of small plate-portioned lamb sliders, feta fries and a stunning rendition of braised pork belly atop a crisp scallion pancake. $ D (nightly). www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5

Mid-City BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and Philip

Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. When the bbq pork egg rolls make an appearance on the menu get them. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www.blueoakbbq.com. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3 CANAL STREET BISTRO International. Chef Guirll-

ermo Peters brings his signature Mesoamerican cuisine to Canal Street. Breakfast offers a world of options, from huevos rancheros to German pancakes, while lunch brings a variety of soups, salads and sandwiches. For dinner try the lamb chile relleno with pecan-almond cream. $$ B, L (W-M); D (W-Sa). www.canalstreetbistro.com. 3903 Canal St., 504.482.1225. Map 1, D2 DOOKY CHASE Creole. One of the oldest African-

American restaurants in the nation. Chef Leah Chase, “the Queen of Creole Cuisine,” has built a large and loyal following with classic dishes, such as her seemingly simple red beans and rice, steaming gumbo and crispy-yet-tender fried chicken. $$ L (Tu-F), D (F). www.dookychaserestaurant.com.

2301 Orleans Ave., 504.821.0600. Map 1, D3 RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran restau-

rateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.ralphsonthepark. com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2 TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups

is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the “Meatery Board,” a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com. 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3

Uptown APOLLINE Louisiana. In this renovated shotgun

house, contemporary twists on French/Creole cuisine make diners feel right at home. Char-broiled oysters with bacon marmalade, cold-smoked pork chops, seared scallops with maque choux and pork plank; at brunch try the confit duck with potato hash, duck cracklin and Hollandaise. $$$ Brunch, D (Tu-Su). www.apollinerestaurant.com. 4729 Magazine St., 504.894.8881. Map 1, D4

AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-

generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragout. $$ D (M-Sa). www.restaurantavo.com. 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4 CARROLLTON MARKET Louisiana. Chef Jason

Goodenough’s market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as crispy pork “tail tots” and New Orleans-style cassoulet.

No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough— flash-fried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and béarnaise. $$ D (Tu-Sa), Br (Th-Su). www.carrolltonmarket.com. 8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928. Map 3, C3 CAVANSeafood. This Victorian home’s “beautiful

deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Nathan Richard’s modern Southern cuisine. Start with the boudin tater tots before devouring the chicken fried rabbit or turtle carbanara with garfish tasso. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.cavannola.com. 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4 DTB Cajun. Short for “down the bayou,” DTB pays

homage to chef Carl Schaubhut’s Cajun country roots with mod twists on Louisiana coastal cuisine.

Think gumbo with crab fat rice and crispy duck confit with charred cabbage and sweet potatoes. $$ D (M-Sa); brunch (F-M). www.dtbnola.com. 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889. Map 1, C3 KENTON’SAmerican. Chef Kyle Knall’s menu is full

of smoke and spirit (he has a thing for bourbon).

Try the crispy grits with country ham and bourbon aioli or slow-smoked sea trout with charred red onion, pickled mustard seed and apples. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.kentonsrestaurant.com.

5757 Magazine St., 504.891.1177. Map 1, D4 LA BOULANGERIE Bakery. This French bakery

doles out savory and sweet artisanal goods to regulars who are loyal verging on addicted. Almond croissants make light snacks, while loaves baked with blue cheese or olives are all good enough to devour on their own. $ B, L (M-Sa). laboulangerie. com. 4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777. Map 1, D4 PASCAL’S MANALE Italian. A New Orleans land-

mark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent barbecued shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.pascalsmanale.com. 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4 PATOIS Louisiana. Aaron Burgau has earned all of

the praise heaped on him as a chef “to watch.” Patois is one of the city’s hottest venues, combining Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a cool bar scene. $$$ L (F), D (W-Sa); Br (Su). www.patoisnola. com. 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441 Map 1, D4 SAFFRON NOLA Indian. Chic Indian fare with

contemporary flare. Top picks include the pakoda choti, roti sathi and any of the crispy dosa on the brunch menu. $$ D (Tu-Sa); Br (Su). www.saffronnola.com. 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4 SHAYA Mediterranean. Uptown gets a taste of

Israel at this modern Mediterranean eatery, named “Best New Restaurant” in the nation by the James Beard Foundation in 2016. Shaya’s wood-burning oven turns out a full menu of falafel, kebabs and labneh, along with interesting entrees $$ L, D (daily). 4213 Magazine St., 504.891.4213. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 29

THE GUIDE

Shopping

Uncommon Scents

Face Value

In the early 20th century Madame Mamie O. Aucoin, the city’s “first female perfumer,” established the Royal Perfume Co., “the oldest perfumer in the South,” on the corner of Royal and Bienville streets. Today her legacy lives on at Madame Aucoin Perfume (608 Bienville St., 504.259.5975), a new boutique her great grand-nephew, Joseph Caillouet, recently opened on the site of her former residence. While Caillouet works on reformulating Aucoin’s original collection of women’s fragrances (Louisiana Magnolia, Southern Lilac) from remnants of century-old bottles, the shop caters to both sexes with a whole new generation of artisanal lines, such as Ormonde Jayne, Memo and Eight & Bob.

Want to blend in with the locals while standing out from the Mardi Gras masses?

Pay a visit to the Mask Gallery (p. 33) or Maskarade (p. 33). Hand-tooled disguises are also found at the French Market Mardi Gras Mask Market (frenchmarket.org) Feb. 9-12, along Dutch Alley, between Dumaine and St. Phillip streets.

BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare,

antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. www.beckhamsbookshop.com/. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5 FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS For six months in

1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. faulknerhousebooks.com.

624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP This well-stocked

shop offers hundreds of current titles, in addition to a large selection of New Orleans-related books. Frequent author appearances. www. gardendistrictbookshop.com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266. Map 1, D4 KITCHEN WITCH New, used and vintage

isianamusicfactory.com. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5 OCTAVIA BOOKSThis well-organized

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

wheretraveler.com

neighborhood bookstore offers a wide selection of current releases and local lit, along with readings by visiting authors. www.octaviabooks.com. 513 Octavia St., 504.899.7323. Map 1, D4 SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music shop is big

on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings.

Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

Clothing BALLIN’S The latest fashions-from cocktail attire

to sportswear-from such well-known designers as Marisa Baratelli, Vera Wang, Lafayette 148 and Laundry, as well as accessories. www.ballinsltd. com. 721 Dante St., 504.866.4367. Map 1, C3

cookbooks are on the menu at this charming shop geared to foodies. Special emphasis is placed on hard-to-find Southern titles and rare volumes devoted to Creole and Cajun cuisine. www.kwcookbooks.com. 1452 Broad St., 504.528.8382. Map 1, D2

BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic

LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better

BUFFALO EXCHANGE Unhappy with the clothes

place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. Live performances on Saturdays. www.lou-

boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. www.billyreid.com. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4 you packed? Trade ’em for a new look at this award-winning resale shop. An ever-changing inventory keeps the fashions fresh and afford-

able. Used clothing may be exchanged for any item in the store. www.buffaloexchange.com. 4119 Magazine St., 504.891.7443. Map 1, D4

DEFEND NEW ORLEANS Part T-shirt shop, part boutique and part home store. With its iconic skull, fleur de lis and musket branding, this hip spot embodies the resilient spirit of the city. www.defendneworleans.com. 1101 First St., 504.941.7010. Map 1, D4; 600 Carondelet St., 504.324.7463. Map 3, C5; 504.484.9830.

DIRTY COAST Just when you thought New Orleans

couldn’t possibly fit another T-shirt shop, along comes Dirty Coast. But you won’t find your standard Bourbon Street garb here. Catering to locals and in-the-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent Cityinspired slogans. www.dirtycoast.com. 713 Royal St., 504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4 FLEURTY GIRL Lauren Haydel has become a

mini mogul, thanks largely to her popular line of women’s T-shirts, which debuted in 2009. Today her designs celebrating local culture are found citywide. www.fleurtygirl.net. 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; 632 St. Peter St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 1627 St. Charles Ave., 504.309.3944. Map 1, D3 FUNKY MONKEY Come Halloween and Carnival

season the line to get in this vintage clothing shop can stretch clear down the block. Once inside you’ll

MARDI GRAS BEADS were first tossed from floats in the late 1800s. Originally made from Czech glass, the Carnival collectibles were replaced by plastic versions during the 1960s.

30 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

(LEFT) ©DOUG BRANTLEY; (RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK

Books & Music

SHOPPING

understand why. This place is packed with kitschy castoffs that make for great costumes, along with new apparel at reasonable prices. 3127 Magazine St., 504.899.5587. Map 1, D4 H&Mïš¼ This Swedish-based retail chain is known

around the globe for its fab fashions and hard-toresist prices. Women’s, men’s and children’s clothing is featured, along with hip home accents. www. hm.com. 418 N. Peters St., 855.466.7467. Map 3, F5 HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, acces-

sories and such sought-after lines as BCBG, Laundry and Diesel are found here. www.shophemline. com. 609 Chartres St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; 3310 Magazine St., 504.702.8009. Map 1, D4 ITALY DIRECT This boutique offers men’s and wom-

BRING NEW ORLEANS HOME STERLING SILVER JEWELRY INSPIRED BY NEW ORLEANS

en’s clothing and accessories with a distinct Italian accent. The nation’s only retailer to feature the Stop Staring! line worn by numerous celebs. Now carrying swimwear. www.italydirectclothing.com.

709 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.566.4933. Map 3, C6; 631 Royal St., 504.522.2231. Map 3, G4 JACI BLUE At this boutique you’ll find gorgeous,

fashion-forward clothing, lingerie and accessories, handpicked to flatter women size 12 and up. www.jaciblue.com. 2111 Magazine St., 504.603.2929. Map 1, D4 719 Royal St, New Orleans, LA 70116 Phone: (504) 522-9222

U.S. P © All rights reserved ANDORA.NET

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12/1/2010 11:21:16 AM

LOST AND FOUND What you’ll find at this fun

French Quarter shop is a constantly changing inventory of women’s clothing and accessories mixed with offbeat gift items. www.lostandfoundnola. com. 323 Chartres St., 504.595.6745. Map 3, F4 MIMI In the matrimony market? Step into this

boutique, where the bride-to-be will find a large selection of gorgeous Vera Wang gowns. Donna Karan, Michael Kors and Dolce & Gabana are just a small sampling of the many other designer names also in stock. www.miminola.com. 5500 Magazine St., 504.269.6464. Map 1, D4 MUSEïš¼ Contemporary clothing for both women

and men, with an emphasis on European designs.

Featured lines include Casch Copenhagen, Nougat London and Johnny Was, among others. www.museinspiredfashion.com. 532 St. Peter St., 504.522.8738. Map 3, G4 NOLA TIL YA DIEïš¼Why just wear your heart on your

sleeve, when you can show some Crescent City love on a cool hoodie, T-shirt, tank top, beanie or cap? NOLA-themed koozies, flasks, flags and temporary tats make great gift items. www.nolatilyadie. com. 3536 Toulouse St., 504.281.4928. Map 1, D2 PENELOPEïš¼ Affordable luxury is the key phrase at

HOME OF THE $169 TUXEDO SET! Why Rent? OWN IT!

At Tuxedos To Geaux, we don’t believe in rentals.

Why hassle with returning your tuxedo the morning after?

Free ery Delivur to yo hotel room

(504) 455-5393 • 3400 16TH STREET, METAIRIE, LA 70002 • NEXT TO IMPASTATO’S RESTAURANT

this sophisticated women’s boutique. Searching for edgy elegance with a European accent? You’ll find it here at hard-to-beat prices: All items are under $100. 328 Chartres St., 504.522.5893. Map 3, F4 PERLIS Mudbug season lasts year-round at Perlis,

purveyor of its famous crawfish-logo line of clothing. In addition, Perlis carries such specialty items as Mardi Gras-hued rugby shirts. The place for classic seersucker suits. www.perlis.com. 600 Decatur St., 504.523.6681. Map 3, G5; 6070 Magazine St., 504.895.8661. Map 1, D4 PIPPEN LANEïš¼ Go ahead and spoil the child at this

upscale boutique, which features fine designer kids’ clothing for both boys and girls, stylish European shoes, custom furniture and embroidered linens. www.pippenlane.com. 2930 Magazine St., 504.269.0106. Map 1, D4

w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 31

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www.louisianataxfree.com.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

Index Books & Music......................................................................................... 30

Clothing........................................................................................................ 30 Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 32 Gourmet Food & Services ............................................................ 34 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 35 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 35 Home & Garden ................................................................................... 36 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 36 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 37 Shoes............................................................................................................... 37 Special Services...................................................................................... 37 PRIMA DONNA’S CLOSET This upscale consign-

ment shop is a favorite among locals in search of great bargains. The focus is on gently worn fashions for both women and men—from casual to evening wear—featuring such celebrated designer lines as Armani, Chanel, Gucci and Prada, among others. www.primadonnascloset.com. 1206 St. Charles Ave., 504.522.3327. Map 3, A5; 927 Royal St., 504.875.4437. Map 3, H4 RUBENSTEIN’S The Rubenstein family has been

outfitting locals since 1924. But the fashions here are anything but dated: Zegna, Canali and Paul Smith are just a sampling of the designers in stock. www.rubensteinsneworleans.com. 102 St. Charles Ave., 504.581.6666. Map 3, E4 TRASHY DIVA Featured in such publications as

Elle and Lucky, Candice Gwinn’s NOLA-based clothing company features original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The stylish shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories, along with numerous locations. www.trashydiva.com.

829 Chartres St., 504.581.4555. Map 3, H4; 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 712 Royal St., 504.522.8861. Map 3, G4; 2044 Magazine St., 504.522.5686. Map 1, D4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4 TUXEDOS TO GEAUXWhy rent a tux when you can

own one? This formal wear shop dresses men to the nines—complete with shirt, tie and cummerbund—for under $200. www.tuxedostogeaux.com.

3400 16th St., Metairie, 504.455.5393. Map 1, C2 UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain

hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs. From everyday casual wear to must-have designer wear, you’ll find it all here at drastically reduced prices. www.shopual. com. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4 URBAN OUTFITTERS The local branch of this

national chain has infused the French Quarter with a big dose of youthful trendiness. Fun casual wear 32 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

for both sexes is featured, along with cool accessories. www.urbanoutfitters.com. 400 N. Peters St., 504.679.0930. Map 3, F5 VIOLET’S One-of-a-kind clothing, jewelry and ac-

cessories with a French Victorian feel are the trademarks of this boutique, which features handpicked selections from top designers. 808 Chartres St., 504.569.0088. Map 3, G4 WEINSTEIN’S Elegant European women’s wear,

from casual to formal, is the specialty at this store, which features the latest by such leading designers as Piazza Sempione and Stella McCartney. www.weinsteinsinc.com. 4011 Magazine St., 504.895.6278. Map 1, D4

Gifts & Collectibles ANTHROPOLOGIE Anthropology means “the study

of humans,” but at this trendy home furnishing/ women’s clothing chain the focus is more on the study of style. The local branch features unusual gift items by area artists and designers. www. anthropologie.com. The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 504.592.9972. Map 3, E5 THE BEAD SHOP Why shuck out big bucks for

plastic Mardi Gras beads when you can get the real deal for far less? Do your own string at this shop, which carries more than 1,000 varieties of baubles from around the globe—from Venetian glass and Bali sterling to limited-edition Swarovski crystal versions. www.beadshopneworleans.com. 4612 Magazine St., 504.895.6161. Map 1, D4 BOTTOM OF THE CUP In addition to psychic read-

ings (palm, tarot, tea leaf), this 80-year-old shop offers a variety of teas and accessories. Crystals, amulets and other metaphysical gift items are also available. www.bottomofthecup.com. 327 Chartres St., 504.524.1997. Map 3, F4 BOURBON FRENCH PARFUMS Established in

1843, this decidedly French parfumeur ranks as one of New Orleans’ oldest retailers. The shop specializes in custom-blended fragrances, such as Eau de Cologne, a favorite of Napoleon. www.neworleansperfume.com. 805 Royal St., 504.522.4480. Map 3, H4 BOUTIQUE DU VAMPYRESearching for a set of

custom-made fangs? Look no further than the nation’s only vampire store, where you’ll also find leather coffin cases, silver bullet jewelry and temporary bite tattoos. www.feelthebite.com. 709 St. Ann St, 504.561.8267. Map 3, G4 BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (includ-

ing designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. www.shopbungalows.com. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 CENTER FOR SOUTHERN CRAFT AND DESIGN The

Ogden Museum of Southern Art gift shop showcases one-of-a-kind glass, metal, wood, ceramic and fabric items, along with jewelry designed and crafted by Southern artists. Books, CDs and T-shirts celebrating Southern culture are also offered. www.ogdenmuseum.org. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6 CIGAR FACTORY NEW ORLEANS & MUSEUM

Watch master cigar makers at work in the Crescent City’s oldest and only cigar factory and museum. Among the specialty styles made here are Plantation Reserve and Vieux Carré.

SHOPPING

www.cigarfactoryneworleans.com. 415 Decatur St., 504.568.1003. Map 3, F5; 206 Bourbon St., 504.568.0168. Map 3, E4 DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s elegant

hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile, featuring historically authentic patterns and finishes, can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. www.derbypottery.com. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4 ELLEN MACOMBER FINE ART & TEXTILESSearch-

ing for cool Crescent City collectibles? Set the GPS for this shop, where artist Ellen Macomber’s street map-inspired designs are offered on everything from clothing to housewares. www.ellenmacomber. com. 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.314.9414. Map 1, D3 ERZULIE’S AUTHENTIC VOUDOU Experience the

power of authentic voodoo at this shop, which offers handcrafted spell kits, magical gris-gris bags, voodoo psychic oils, love potions, dolls and more. www.erzulies.com. 807 Royal St., 504.525.2055. Map 3, G4 FOREVER NEW ORLEANS At this shop, you’ll find

fleur-de-lis everything—from pillows to pottery— along with other Crescent City-themed keepsakes and gift items. https://shopforeverneworleans. com/. 308 Royal St., 504.525.0100. Map 3, F4; 606 Royal St., 504.510.4813. Map 3, G4; 700 Royal St., 504.586.3536. Map 3, G4 GEM DE FRANCE Where do French Quarter Franco-

Where do you want to go?

Find the best of the city

philes go for authentic French Country table linens, shea-butter soaps and trés chic home accents? To Gem de France, naturally, where you’ll find plenty of Parisian imports to ooh-la-la over. www.gemdefrance.com. 729 Royal St., 504.571.6304. Map 3, G4 HERB IMPORT CO. This popular smoke shop

features a large selection of cigarettes and herbal smoking blends, in addition to pipes and related goods. Offbeat gift items are also offered, along with aromatherapy, vitamins and detox products. www.herbimport.com. 711 St. Peter St., 504.525.4372. Map 3, G4; 5055 Canal St., 504.488.4889. Map 3, D3; 712 Adams St., 504.861.4644. Map 1, C3 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERYThis magical empo-

rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5 HOMEBASE Kick your souvenir shopping up a

notch with a visit to Emeril Lagasse’s corporate headquarters, which stocks everything Bam!related, from Emeril aprons and toques to a full line of the celebrity chef’s cookbooks, cookware and spices. www.emerils.com. 829 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4241. Map 3, B5 HUSTLER HOLLYWOOD This erotica emporium

offers two floors of adult gifts and novelty items, along with books, magazines, DVDs, lingerie and select clothing. www.hustlerhollywood.com. 111 Bourbon St., 504.561.9969. Map 3, E4 IDEA FACTORY This eclectic gift shop features

toys and kitchen accessories as well as sculpture and custom-made signs. Unique examples of woodworking from around the U.S. www. ideafactoryneworleans.com. 924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4

LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep

small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures.

New Orleans-themed toys and books are also offered. www.littletoyshopnola.com/. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5 THE MASK GALLERYAustrian crystals, hand-tolled

leather and fanciful feathers are the signature touches of maskmaker Massoud Dalili’s colorful Carnival creations. www.neworleansmask.com. 841 Royal St., 504.523.6664. Map 3, F4 MASKARADE A small shop offering one of the larg-

est selections of Venetian masks in the country, in addition to hundreds of handmade masks by local and international artists. www.themaskstore.com.

630 St. Ann St., 504.568.1018. Map 3, G4 MIETTE Out-of-the-ordinary gifts and souvenirs are

showcased at this colorful and crowded boutique.

A mix of locally made jewelery, crafts, clothing and home accents is offered. iheartmiette.com. 2038 Magazine St., 504 .522.2883. Map 1, D4 NOLA KIDS This French Quarter children’s

boutique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth. Locally made Kalencom diaper bags and accessories are also featured, along with toys, books and great gift items. www.shopnolakids.com. 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4 PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French

Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks, Roman monogram seals and other desk accessories are featured. www.papierplume.com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4 PLUM This hip home and gift shop is devoted to

“cool stuff for stylish living,” much of which is created by local crafters. Handmade housewares, artful accents, jazzy jewelry: If it’s both fun and functional, you’ll likely find it here. www.plumneworleans.com.

1914 Magazine St., 504.897.3388. Map 1, D4 POP CITY This “pop culture emporium” fea-

tures cool clothing and accessories for both sexes, with a focus on local designers. Locally made art, jewelry and fun gift items are also offered. www.popcitynola.com. 940 Decatur St., 504.528.8559. Map 3, H5 REV. ZOMBIE’S VOODOO SHOP Interested in the

occult? This shop offers a wide array of goods geared to both novices and practitioners: tribal masks and talismans, spell kits and candles, books and herbs. Psychic and spiritual readings are also available. www.voodooneworleans.com. 723 St. Peter St., 504.486.6366. Map 3, G4 ROCKET FIZZ Candy connoisseurs get their fill

at this oh-so-sweet shop, packed with nostalgic sweets and novelty treats. A large selection of British and Asian imports is offered, along with hundreds of sodas in fun flavors. www.rocketfizz. com. 831 Decatur St., 504.566.7500. Map 3, H5 SANTA’S QUARTERS Need a little Christmas right

this very minute? Load up the sleigh at this holidaythemed shop—the South’s largest—selling nativity sets, specialty lights and locally crafted ornaments year-round. www.santasquartersno.com. 1025 Decatur St., 504.581.5820. Map 3, H5

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THE GUIDE

SCRIPTURA A wordsmith’s dream, selling formal

and unusual paper products, including New Orleans-themed stationery, pens, journals, note cards, custom wax seals, travel diaries, and photo albums. www.scriptura.com. 5423 Magazine St., 504.897.1555. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.219.1113. Map 1, C2

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VIEUX CARRÉ HAIR STORE “We have warts!” is the

Saussaye family’s motto, and they’ve been passing them on to locals since 1877, along with custommade prosthesis, theatrical makeup, wigs and latex likenesses of ghastly ghouls and political figures. A must for costume enthusiasts. www.vieuxcarrehairshop.com. 8224 Maple St., 504.862.6936. Map 1, C3

Gourmet Food & Spirits AUNT SALLY’S PRALINE SHOP Chances are you’ll

catch the sweet scent of Aunt Sally’s clear down the block. Created from Louisiana cane sugar and pecans, pralines are made fresh daily in the store’s kitchen. The shelves are also stocked with Crescent City souvenir items. www.auntsallys.com. 810 Decatur St., 504.524.3373. Map 3, H5; 750 St. Charles Ave., 504.522 .4456.

BITTERSWEET CONFECTIONS Crescent City

confectioner Cheryl Scripter has built a loyal following with her incredible truffle collections. Her Warehouse District location also offers fresh morning pastries, coffees and teas, along with delicious cakes, cookies, dipped fruits, toffees and handmade nonparelis. www.bittersweetconfections. com. 725 Magazine St., 504.523.2626. Map 3, C6 KEIFE & CO. A charming, beautifully curated wine

and spirits shop in the Warehouse District. There’s a hushed library feel to the place, with floor-toceiling shelving stocked deep with wines, booze, liqueurs and unique quaffs. Gourmet food items are also offered. www.keifeandco.com. 801 Howard Ave., 504.523.7272. Map 3, B5 LA RIVIÈRE CONFISERIESpecializing in handcraft-

ed, high-quality French confections, this artisanal sweets boutique offers imported indulgences, such as Henri Le Roux chocolates and Despinoy tinned candies. www.lariviereconfiserie.com. 3719 Magazine St., 504.891.1026. Map 1, D4 LAURA’S CANDIES Laura’s confectionery dates

to 1913, making it the oldest candy store in the city. Among the treats are Creole pralines and decadent “Mississippi Mud.” www.laurascandies. com. 331 Chartres St., 504.525.3880. Map 3, F4; 535 Decatur St., 504.309.2540. Map 3, F5 MARTIN WINE CELLAR Wine Spectator has recog-

nized Martin Wine as one of the country’s premier emporiums of fine vintages and gourmet food items. www.martinwine.com. 3827 Baronne St., 504.899.7411. Map 1, D4; 714 Elmeer Ave., Metairie, 504.896.7300. Map 1, C2 ROUSES This regional supermarket chain, with

locations in Louisiana and Mississippi, has built its reputation on sourcing from local suppliers, farmers and fishermen. www.rouses.com. 701 Royal St., 504.523.1353. Map 3, G4; 701 Baronne St., 504.227.3838. Map 3, C4; 4500 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.7910.; 504.288.1600.; 400 N. Carrollton Ave, 504.488.2129.; 4001 General DeGaulle Drive, 504.361.5557.

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SIDNEY’S WINE CELLAR In addition to vintages

from makers such as Cakebread, Silver Oaks and Stag’s Leap, this shop boasts the largest selection 34 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

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SHOPPING

of beer in the Quarter (more than 120 varieties).

917 Decatur St., 504.524.6872. Map 3, H5 SIMONE’S MARKETA small, independent grocery

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devoted to thoughtfully selected local and regional products. Prepared foods are also available, along with daily deli specials. www.simonesmarket.com.

8201 Oak St., 504.273.7706. Map 3, C3 SOUTHERN CANDYMAKERSYou can catch a sugar

buzz just walking through the door of this French Quarter sweets shop, known for its pralines, toffees and tortues (turtles). www.southerncandymakers. com. 334 Decatur St., 504.523.5544. Map 3, F5; 1010 Decatur St., 504.525.6170. Map 3, H5 VIEUX CARRÉ WINE & SPIRITS The French Quar-

ter’s most popular spot for fine wines, top-shelf liquors and imported and domestic beer. Free delivery is available throughout the Quarter and nearby neighborhoods. 422 Chartres St., 504.568.

WINE. Map 3, F4 WHOLE FOODS The organic grocery offers a wealth

of all-natural goods, along with an excellent selection of prepared food items and three locations. www.wholefoodsmarket.com. 5600 Magazine St., 504.899.9119. Map 1, D4; 300 N. Broad St., 504.434.3364. Map 1, D2; 3420 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, 504.888.8225. Map 1, C2 WINE INSTITUTE NEW ORLEANS In addition to

recreational wine classes, professional certification courses and private tasting sessions, this shop/ school offers fine vintages for sale, along with a tasting room featuring 120 wines for sampling. www.winoschool.com. 610 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.324.8000. Map 3, D6

Fine Writing Instruments, Inks, Journals, Wax & Seals, Desk Accessories, Stationery, Inkwells and Dipping Pens

Toys • Boxes • Games •

• Clocks • Puzzles • Office

Papier Plume 842 Royal Street (504) 988-7265 www.papierplume.com

Hats & Accessories

Gizmos • Gadgets • Gifts of Wood

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BELLA UMBRELLA Cloudy skies? This shop helps

you keep a sunny disposition with cool rain gear, ranging from vintage parasols to its signature pagoda-style umbrella. www.bellaumbrella.com.

2036 Magazine St., 504.302.1036. Map 1, D4 FLEUR DE PARIS You’re guaranteed to turn heads

when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats.

Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. Couture gowns are also featured. www.fleurdeparis.net. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4 GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops

date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s chic chapeaux and stylish stores are found nationwide. www.goorin.com. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2127 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3 MEYER THE HATTER The oldest hat store in the

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South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest invento3/10/14 11:24:10 AMries of quality headwear in the country. www. meyerthehatter.com. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4 QUEORK Cork is the draw at this sleek shop,

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where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.481.2525. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.388.6803. Map 1, D4

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with

antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale acces-

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THE GUIDE

sories and top-of-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves and great gifts for that hard-to-surprise guy in your life. www.aidangillformen.com. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; 550 Fulton St., 504.566.4903. Map 3, D6 AVERY FINE PERFUMERY This artisanal fragrance

”smell gallery” is one of only 18 in the world and the Italian-based InterTrade Europe group’s sole stand-alone, stateside location. Hard-to-find niche brands such as Blood Concept and Boadicea are featured. www.averyfineperfumeries.com. 527 St. Joseph St., 504.522.7102. Map 3, B6 BELLADONNA DAY SPA Attempting to cover the

entire six-mile stretch of Magazine Street can run even the most ardent shopper ragged. Thankfully, Belladonna sits at the halfway point, providing rejuvenation before heading back out on the hunt. www.belladonnadayspa.com. 2900 Magazine St., 504.891.4393. Map 1, D4 FIFI MAHONY’S In search of the perfect pink

wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby red lipstick?

It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter.

Stylists can make you over for special events, or accessorize your look with funky handbags and sunglasses. www.fifimahonys.com. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4 HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that

has been in business for 80 years. Among the fragrant perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 LUSH Its organic products and “fresh market”

décor have made the Lush chain an international success. Its New Orleans locations live up to the standard with hard-to-resist bath bombs, soaps and body bars. www.lushusa.com. 532 Royal St., 504.529.5704. Map 3, G4; 3129 Magazine St., 504.899.4089. Map 1, D4 PLANET BEACHThis French Quarter spa

provides a variety of services, from massages and facials to spray tanning and teeth whitening. www.planetbeach.com. 301 Burgundy St., 594.525.8266. Map 3, F3 THE REMEDY ROOM Overindulged? This innovative

clinic helps visitors rebound from travel sickness, hangovers and overeating through rehydration therapy, using vitamins, minerals and antioxidants.

Reservations required. www.theremedyroom.com.

1224 St. Charles Ave., 504.301.1670. Map 3, A6 SEPHORA The local branch of the nation’s leading

cosmetics and perfume retailer offers more than 13,000 products from 200-plus brands, all of which can be tested on-site. www.sephora.com. 414 N. Peters St., 504.561.9889. Map 3, F5; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, 504.830.4567. Map 1, C2 THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious,

award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café. Named the best hotel spa in the nation by Travel + Leisure. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3 TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these

centrally located relaxation stations, which specializes in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 36 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7 WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10

private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate diamond and 24-carat gold products. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. www.rooseveltneworleans.com.

130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3 THE WOODHOUSE DAY SPA The Mid-City branch

of this nationwide franchise offers a variety of relaxing body treatments, along with rejuvenating facials, manicures, pedicures and more. www. neworleans.woodhousespas.com. 4030 Canal St., 504.482.6652. Map 1, D3

Home & Garden AKA STELLA GRAY“Bohemian luxury” is the

concept at this artfully appointed home décor shop. Antique accents and vintage items meld with funky furniture, offbeat art, cool lighting and more. https://www.facebook.com/akastellagray/. 4422 Magazine St., 504.208.2300. Map 1, D4 AMERICAN AQUATIC GARDENS An urban oasis on

Elysian Fields with everything you need to create a backyard garden: rare water lilies, bronze statues, pottery, fountains, sundials and garden lanterns. www.americanaquaticgardens.com. 621 Elysian Fields Ave., 504.944.0410. Map 3, J5 COUTELIER Form and function combine at this Riv-

erbend shop, where stunning Japanese knives line cypress display boards. Chef’s knives from Kikuichi to Takeda are available, as are cookbooks and other kitchen accessories. www.nolaknifeworks. com. 8239 Oak St., 504.475.5606. Map 1, C3 DUNN & SONNIER This alternative antique and

flower shop offers a varied selection of European furniture, lamps, sterling silver and other accessories, as well as out-of-the-ordinary floral arrangements. www.dunnandsonnierflowers.com. 3433 Magazine St., 504.524.3235. Map 1, D4 ECLECTIC HOME “Good design knows no period”

is the motto at the chic home boutique, where rustic chandeliers pair with luxe leather sofas, and burlap-upholstered chairs complement spunaluminum tables. www.eclectichome.net. 8211 Oak St., 504.866.6654. Map 1, C3 THE GIVING TREE Cartography fan? Navigate

your way to this shop, where wooden 3D nautical charts of the nation’s waterways line the walls.

Home décor items and jewelry are also featured. www.thegivingtreegallery.com. 738 Royal St., 504.475.5906. Map 3, G4; 829 Chartres St., 504.586.2085. Map 3, H4 HAZELNUT Crescent City native and Broadway vet

Bryan Batt has received much well-deserved applause for his show-stopping décor shop. Unusual home accents, such as New Orleans-themed toile, are featured. www.hazelnutneworleans.com. 5525 Magazine St., 504.891.2424. Map 1, D4 LOOMED NOLA Hand-woven cotton, linen and

silk in a range of colors forms the basis of the organic Turkish textiles found here. Scarves, robes, towels and bedcovers are among the offerings. www.loomed.co/. 2727 Prytania St., Suite 13, 504.304.2047. Map 1, D4 LOUISIANA LOOM WORKS This homey shop

features colorful handmade cotton rag rugs.

Proprietors Walt and Ronda Rose weave all the

rugs themselves with new fabrics on three instore looms, and are happy to fill special orders. www.customragrugs.com. 616 Chartres St., 504.566.7788. Map 3, G4 LUM Looking for an authentic elk-hoof lamp or a

pair fashioned from antique wooden wallpaper rolls? You’ll find them at this trés chic vintage lighting store, along with everything from rare 1920s Japanese pewter lamps to oh-so-’70s corkand-chrome models. www.shoplum.com. 3806 Magazine St., 504.939.1474. Map 1, D4 NADINE BLAKE Interiors maven Blake is redefining

the idea of French Quarter chic at her sleek décor boutique. Home furnishings and accessories with a contemporary twist are featured, along with creative gift items. www.nadineblake.com. 1036 Royal St., 504.529.4913. Map 3, H4 NOLA BOARDSAdd a dash of Crescent City flavor

to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www.nolaboards.com.

519 Wilkinson St., 504.516.2601. Map 3, G4 ROUX ROYALE This shop caters to foodies with se-

lect serving ware and kitchen-related accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. https://shoprouxroyale.com/. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4 SHAUN SMITH HOME “Simplicity is at the core of

my aesthetic sense,” says designer Shaun Smith, whose chic home boutique is a study in the art of blending styles and periods. Vamped-up vintage furnishings meld seamlessly with modern designs. Select art and accessories is also featured. www.shaunsmithhome.com. 3947 Magazine St., 504.896.1020. Map 1, D4 SPRUCE Does your space need a spruce up? Start

by stopping in at this eco-conscious interiors studio. Funky fabrics, one-of-a-kind wallpaper and design consultation services are offered. www.sprucenola.com. 2043 Magazine St., 504.265.0946. Map 1, D4 WEST ELMThis local branch of the mid-century

minded home furnishings store is indicative of the new New Orleans and Magazine Street’s increasingly modernist movement. Handcrafted goods from around the globe are coupled with items crafted by local artisans. www.westelm.com. 2929 Magazine St., 504.895.2469. Map 1, D4

Jewelry ADLER’S Since 1898, Adler’s has been New Or-

leans’ most respected repository for fine jewelry, watches, china and silver. www.adlersjewelry.com.

722 Canal St., 504.523.5292. Map 3, E4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.523.1952. Map 1, C2 ADORN & CONQUER Metalsmith Maria Fomich cre-

ates handmade jewelry on-site at this small space in the Rink shopping center. New Orleans elements (shotgun houses, streetcars) and bits of nature (leaf and bone imprints) are featured in her designs and works by national crafters. www.adornandconquer. com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.702.8036. Map 1, D4 ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear

boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured.

SHOPPING

artandeyesneworleansla.com/. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4 BIJOU NOLA A small shop big on handcrafted

designs by local and international artists. Designs accented with gemstones in 14-kt. gold, sterling silver, stainless steel and titanium are featured. www.bijounola.com. 635 St. Peter St., 504.529.3001. Map 3, G4 FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron,

St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. As its name suggests, fleurs-de-lis are prominent, with more than 75 different designs featured. www.fleurdorleans.com. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4 GOGO Contemporary jewelry fan? Get thee to

Gogo, where locals flock for homegrown designer Gogo Borgerding’s Elle-approved anodized aluminum bracelets and yummy acrylic “sushi” rings. www.ilovegogojewelry.com. 2036 Magazine St., 504.529.8868. Map 1, D4 JOSE BALLI Mardi Gras mask rings, Dixie beer-

cap pendants, beignet earrings, shotgun house cufflinks: local treasures are the trademark of jeweler Balli. Coastal, Cajun and religious motifs are also prominent in his popular gold and silver designs. www.joseballi.com. 621 Chartres St., 504.522.1770. Map 3, G4; 504.371.5533.

KENDRA SCOTT JEWELRYAlong with its signature

line of go-anywhere and -with-anything designs, this innovative jewelry shop lets you customize pieces to your own taste. www.kendrascott.com.

5757 Magazine St., 504.613.4227. Map 1, D4 KREWE Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett has

garnered a national following with his locally designed line of sunglasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold hardware. www.krewe.com. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, H4 LA PETIT FLEUR Specializing in estate and con-

temporary jewelry, La Petit Fleur is well known for its own line of pendants based ont the fleur de lis, now widely embraced as the symbol of New Orleans’ rebirth. The shop also offers Crescent City-themed charms. www.lapetitfleur.com. 534 Royal St., 504.522.1305. Map 3, G4 LEE MICHAELS Fine gems, timeless timepieces,

and distinctive gift items are the trademarks of this respected dealer. A large selection of diamonds, pearls and wedding jewelry is offered. www.lmfj.com. Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.581.6161. Map 1, C2 MARION CAGE “Jewelry is a form of architecture,

and the body is its landscape” is the mantra of Marion Cage McCollam, whose elegant, minimalist creations reflect her industrial-design training.

Cool home accents and hardware are also featured. www.marioncage.com. 3807 Magazine St., 504.891.8848. Map 1, D4 MIGNON FAGET Beloved local designer

Mignon Faget has created extraordinary jewelry, using semiprecious stones and precious metals, for more than four decades.

New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. www.mignonfaget.com.

3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans

Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.2244. Map 1, C2; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 504.524.2973. Map 3, E5 PORTER LYONSJewelry designer Ashley Lyons is

a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations and made the French Quarter her first choice for her first brick-and-mortar space. www.porterlyons.com. 631 Toulouse St., 800.585.0348. Map 3, G5 QUARTER PAST TIME Vintage watches are

the main staple of this French Quarter shop, along with antique radios, lighters, jewelry, silver, and other collectibles. 606 Chartres St., 504.410.0010. Map 3, G4 SYMMETRY JEWELERS This full-service jewelry

shop, located in the Riverbend neighborhood, features contemporary designs by local, national and international artists, along with custommade creations by in-house craftsman Tom Mathis. A large selection of gemstones is offered, in addition to estate jewelry pieces, antique restoration and traditional repair services. www. symmetryjewelers.com. 8138 Hampson St., 504.861.9925. Map 1, C3 TIFFANY & CO. Founded in 1837 as “a statio-

nery and fancy goods emporium,” Tiffany’s has since become synonymous with top-ofthe-line luxury jewelry, and famed worldwide for its signature blue boxes. www.tiffany.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 800.843.3269. Map 3, E5 WARBY PARKERAffordable eyewear and

mid-century modern stylishness are Warby Parker’s trademarks. An in-store photo studio lets customers email images of their new glasses to themselves, or to friends, then purchase later online. www.warbyparker.com. 3964 Magazine St., 504.799.2830. Map 1, D4 WELLINGTON & COMPANY This shop is largely

devoted to antique and estate jewelry, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and art deco designs. A large selection of diamond engagement rings is also featured, along with new designer lines. www.wcjewelry.com. 505 Royal St., 504.525.4855. Map 3, F4

Malls/Major Retailers GULFPORT PREMIUM OUTLETS It may be an

hour’s drive, but a day trip to this popular outlet mall is well worth the investment for bargain hunters. The sprawling complex offers deep savings at more than 70 leading retailers. www.premiumoutlets.com. 10000 Factory Shops Blvd., Gulfport, Miss., 228.867.6101.

LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shop-

ping stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, the Disney Store, Macy’s, Michael Kors, Microsoft and Sephora. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2 THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Lo-

cated along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio and Coach. www.riverwalkneworleans.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Place, 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7

THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features

some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, Armani Collezioni, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace.com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5

Shoes AEROSOLES This shoe store offers specially con-

structed, moderately priced designs in updated styles. www.aerosoles.com. 510 St. Peter St., 504.529.7463. Map 3, G5 DONALD J. PLINER This Canal Place retailer is

devoted to shoes, handbags and accessories from designer Donald J. Pliner. www.donaldjpliner. com. The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.522.1720. Map 3, E5 FEET FIRST More than 50 lines of women’s brand-

name shoes, handbags, jewelry and accessories are offered here, along with items by local designers. www.feetfirststores.com. 4122 Magazine St., 504.899.6800. Map 1, D4 GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop for

professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers and sandals to dress shoes and high heels. More than 25 styles are available. www.orleansshoes.com. 539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929. Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2 JOHN FLUEVOG”Unique soles for unique souls.”

This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. www.fluevog.com. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4 SHOE BE DO “New Orleans’ greatest addiction”

offers a large selection of high-fashion women’s shoes from around the globe. Get a step ahead with cutting-edge footwear from up-andcoming international designers. https://www. shoebedousa.com/. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.

SHOE. Map 3, F4 VICTORIA’S One of the city’s leading purvey-

ors of women’s fine footwear, featuring such sought-after designers as Jimmy Choo, Vera Wang and Robert Clergerie. 4858 Magazine St., 504.899.8878. Map 1, D4

Special Services ELECTRIC LADYLAND Looking for a lasting

souvenir? This popular tattoo parlor draws locals, tourists and visiting celebrities with its awardwinning artists and large selection of designs. electricladylandtattoo.com. 610 Frenchmen St., 504.947.8286. Map 3, J5 FRENCH QUARTER POSTAL EMPORIUM In addi-

tion to USPS, UPS and Federal Express shipping, this Bourbon Street postal facility provides Internet access, copying and faxing services. frenchquarterpostal.net. 1000 Bourbon St., 504.525.6651. Map 3, H4 PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICESWhy bother with

baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 37

THE GUIDE

Galleries+Antiques

Edible Art

The Big Easel

The standard still life is given fresh perspective through the lens of photographer Nathan Myhrvold. Since age 11, the “Modernist” master has been playing with his food—and shooting it—with a focus on the science of cooking and cutting-edge culinary techniques. His unique approach to food photography resulted in a series of successful books, coverage in Popular Photography, The New York Times and Vanity Fair, exhibits at the Smithsonian Institution and numerous other museums and the opening the new Modernist Cuisine Gallery (301 Royal St., 504.571.5157). Large-scale, limited-edition prints of Myhrvold’s larger-than-life depictions of burgers, fries, fruits, veggies and more are offered.

Last call for Prospect.4. The fourth iteration of the largest periodic international art exhibition in the U.S. continues through Feb. 25 with works in a wide range of media by 70-plus artists from 25 countries on view at galleries, museums and satellite spaces citywide. For a full lineup of featured artists and venues, visit prospectneworleans.com.

ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’

leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5 BOYD SATELLITE GALLERY Local multimedia artist

Blake Boyd finally has a room of his own—and a place for his friends to hang as well. Regional and international artists are featured, along with Boyd’s own offbeat works. www.boydsatellitegallery.com.

440 Julia St., 504.581.2440. Map 3, C6 BRAND NEW ORLEANS ART GALLERY Contem-

porary Louisiana artists, both established and emerging, are spotlighted here. Works by Michael Guidry, Bob Graham and others are featured. www.brandartnola.com. 646 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.509.6598. Map 3, D6 CALLAN CONTEMPORARY This chic gallery offers

contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.callancontemporary. com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6 D.O.C.S. Warehouse Arts District dynamo Richard

Nesbitt is the driving force behind this gallery, which showcases a wide range of works by regional up-and-comers. www.docsgallery.com. 709 Camp St., 504.524.3936. Map 3, C5

JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This

There’s a lot more going on on this this month.

FebruVisit us online: ary. wheretraveler.com Visit us online:

gallery is home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists.

Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. www.jonathanferraragallery.com. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6 LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings,

sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are among the media exhibited here. www.lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6 MARTINE CHAISSON GALLERY Contemporary is

the key word here, from the sleek space itself to the cutting-edge creations on its walls. Rotating exhibits by mid-career and emerging artists working in a wide range of media are featured. www.martinechaissongallery.com. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. Map 3, C5 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF GLASSWORKS AND PRINTMAKING STUDIO This working artists’ stu-

dio features free demonstrations by local master crafters in blown glass, printmaking and fine silver.

Designs made in the studio are on display—and for sale—in the front showroom. How-to classes are also offered. www.neworleansglassworks.com. 727 Magazine St., 504.529.7277. Map 3, C6 OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space

spotlights local and international artists working in a wide range of media, including paintings by James Henderson, sculpture by Wayne Amedee and photography by Joe Zammit-Lucia. www.

octaviaartgallery.com. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6 SOREN CHRISTENSEN GALLERY

Paintings, sculpture and photography by nationally recognized as well as emerging contemporary artists is the focus here. www.sorengallery.com. 400 Julia St., 504.569.9501. Map 3, C6 STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’ preeminent

exhibition space for African-American artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. stellajonesgallery.com/.

201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4

French Quarter A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY The city’s

most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented here include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. www.agallery. com. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4 ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quar-

ter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird, Woodrow Nash and Patterson & Barnes. www.angelakinggallery.com.

241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4 ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-Anti-

eau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in

BOTH AN ART LOVER and cocktail connoisseur? Invest in a bottle of Old New Orleans Rum, which features artist James Michalopoulos’ iconic imagery on its rear label.

38 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

(LEFT) ©MODERNIST CUISINE GALLERY; (RIGHT) ©J. CALDWELL

Central Business/ Warehouse District

THE GUIDE

GALLERIES+ANTIQUES

Guidelines

vases with bronze mountings. www.gofrenchantiques.com. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

FUNERAL GALLERY Offbeat illustrations, macabre

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

GALLERY 2 Part animal/part human, Betsy

Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 38

French Quarter ...................................................................................... 38 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................42 Collectives.....................................................................................................43 Other Locations.......................................................................................44

the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. www.antieaugallery.com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern France

on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18th-century antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4 BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority

of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. Contemporary lamp styles are also offered. www.bevolo.com.

521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F4 CALLAN FINE ART Specializing in fine European

paintings from 1830 to 1950, this prestigious gallery features museum-quality examples from the academic, Barbizon, impressionistic and post-impressionist movements as well as select contemporary works. www.callanfineart.com. 240 Chartres St., 504.524.0025. Map 3, F4 CLAIRE ELIZABETH GALLERY Emerging local and

regional contemporary artists are spotlighted here.

Works range from painting and photography to sculpture and papercuts. www.claireelizabethgallery.com. 131 Decatur St., 504.309.4063. Map 3, E5 CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig

Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery then captures on film.

Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHYAward-winning

photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this

shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th- and 19th-centuries and Oriental accents, including 40 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

assemblage dolls, quirky circus banners: If it’s edgy and eclectic, you’ll spot it here. Works by both local and national artists are featured in a wide range of media. www.funeralgallery.com. 811 Royal St., 504.603.6038. Map 3, H4 Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also features Ann Marie Cianciolo’s whimsical sculptural jewelry. www.gallerytwonola.com. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312. Map 3, H4 GALLERY ORANGE Modern-minded collectors will

be drawn in by the fresh contemporary works at this super-hip gallery. A vibrant mix of local and international artists, both emerging and established, is featured. www.gallery-orange.com. 819 Royal St., 504.875.4006. Map 3, H4 GRAPHITE GALLERY Seeking something cutting-

edge and cool? This is the place. Works by emerging and mid-career artists from around the globe, ranging from paintings to sculpture, are the draw at this contemporary space, which also features upand-coming local talents. www.graphitenola.com.

936 Royal St., 504.565.3739. Map 3, H4 HALLBARNETT GALLERY During the 1980s,

Howard Barnett shook things up with one of the first contemporary galleries in the Quarter. Today daughter Holly continues her father’s legacy with an eclectic mix of emerging and established artists. www.hallbarnett.com. 237 Chartres St., 504.522.5657. Map 3, F4 HAROUNI GALLERY David Harouni has an eye for

heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. Harouni’s expressionistic oilworks and sculptures have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his French Quarter studio. www.harouni.com. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4 HARRIS ANTIQUES One of the finest antiquaries in

the Quarter, carrying an extensive array of French and English antiques, paintings, Oriental rugs and statuary. www.harrisantiques.com. 233 Royal St., 504.523.1605. Map 3, F4 IDA MANHEIM ANTIQUES This impressive show-

room features 17th-, 18th- and 19th-century French, English, Dutch and Continental furniture. You’ll also discover a selection of fine paintings and European porcelain, in addition to marble and bronze statuary. www.idamanheimantiques.com. 409 Royal St., 504.620.4114. Map 3, F4 JACK SUTTON ANTIQUES The Sutton family has

been one of Royal Street’s most prominent since 1915. This emporium is an elegantly decorated living room filled with 19th- and 20th-century decorative antiques, vintage watches, fine jewelry, dinnerware and paintings. 315 Royal St., 504.522.0555. Map 3, F4 JAMES H. COHEN & SONS This fifth-generation,

family-run business, founded in 1898, specializes in pre-19th-century weaponry, coins dating from 450 B.C. and Civil War-related items. www.cohenantiques.com. 437 Royal St., 504.524.0802. Map 3, F4 KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s estab-

lished its reputation with rare 18th- and 19thcentury French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and

fine jewelry. www.keilsantiques.com. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4 KEZIC GALLERY Diego Lukezic is triple talented.

Perhaps best known for his popular “Tango Dog” series, the local artist also creates New Orleans architectural images using the pseudonym “Martin Luke” and 4D florals as “Kezic.” www.kezic.com.

337 Royal St., 504.298.1096. Map 3, F4 KURT E. SCHON LTD. This fine art gallery deals in

international oil paintings from the 18th and 19th centuries for collectors, museums and investors. www.kurteschonltd.com. 510 St. Louis St., 504.524.5462. Map 3, F5 LUCKY ROSE GALLERY Devoted to the stunning

porcelain sculpture of artist-owner Cathy Rose, who often incorporates repurposed pieces of New Orleans into her works. www.cathyrose.com. 840 Royal St., 504.309.8000. Map 3, H4 LUCULLUS An antique shop specializing in

objects for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware, rustic farmhouse implements and bistro equipment are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4 M CONTEMPORARY Resident artist Frederick

Guess painting on site will draw you into this gallery, where George Alexander’s ceramic sculptures and Andrew Blanchard’s prints on panel will make you linger a while. www.handselgallery.com. 906 Royal St., 504.523.2022. Map 3, H4 M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family

business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY This branch of the

nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limitededition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté, among others. www.martinlawrence.com. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural

renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4 MOSS ANTIQUES Fine art objects fill this gallery,

which offers jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories. Merchandise here comes primarily from England and France. www.mossantiques.com.

411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS Since 1938, this

Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate. A large selection of estate jewelry is also offered. www. neworleanssilversmiths.com. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4 OSTERHOLD BOUDREAUX GALLERY & STUDIO

Artist Jared Osterhold’s early work on Mardi Gras floats is reflected in his vibrant paintings that capture the city’s colorful Carnival culture, architecture, music and voodoo lore. Originals, giclées and

Antieau Gallery • New Orleans •

“Albino Deer,” Embroidery On Taxidermy

THE WORK OF CHRIS ROBERTS-ANTIEAU 927 ROYAL ST, NEW ORLEANS, LA 70116 (504) 304-0849 • www.antieaugallery.com

OPEN DAILY 10AM - 8PM

Antieau Gallery Uptown Located at 4532 Magazine Street, New Orleans

THE GUIDE

ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE, llc prints are offered, along with live-painting event services. www.artgallerynola.com. 427 Royal St., 504.975.2423. Map 3, F4

FRENCH INTÉRIEURS & JARDINS

PENNINGTON FINE ARTWith no formal training,

Jim Pennington honed his craft studying (and copying) the paintings of Degas, Sargent, Whistler and others at Boston’s Museum of Fine Art and New York’s Museum of Modern Art. His French Quarter gallery offers original oilworks, along with giclées. www.penningtonart.com. 829 Royal St., 985.789.5547. Map 3, H4 RED TRUCK GALLERY “Beautiful, unexpected art”

by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. www.redtruckgallery. com. 938 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4 RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark

is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular “Blue Dog” series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4 SCENE BY RHYS ”New Orleans music inked into

art,” is the adage of artist Emilie Rhys, who you’ll likely spot sketching away in a local club. Like her legendary father, Noel Rockmore, known for his Preservation Hall paintings during the 1960s, Rhys captures the beat of the city through portraits of its musicians. www.scenebyrhys.com. 708 Toulouse St., 504.258.5842. Map 3, G4 TANNER GALLERIES & STUDIO Home to local

artist Tanner’s colorful-yet-haunting “treescapes.”

Originals are offered. www.hauntingart.com. 830 Royal St., 504.524.8266. Map 3, H4 VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs,

this hip shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Vintage sunglasses, French-, Shag- and fashion-inspired posters, plus vintage barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This gallery features fine

works in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by ToulouseLautrec. www.windsorfineart.com. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4

Magazine Street & Uptown ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the

works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger and England’s late Princess Margaret. Originals are offered, along with limited-edition silk screens and giclée prints. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4 ANTON HAARDT GALLERY Folk art gets the fine art

treatment at this gallery, which features the works of such outsider insiders as Mose Tolliver, Jimmie Sudduth, Sybil Gibson, B.F. Perkins, Howard Finster and Juanita Rogers. www.antonhaardtgallery.com.

2858 Magazine St., 504.891.9080. Map 1, D4 B.FOS GALLERY “I gather inspiration from all cor-

ners of this wild, beautiful and colorful city,” says local artist Becky Fos, which is reflected in her vibrant oil works. www.beckyfos.com. 2138 Magazine St., 504.444.2967. Map 1, D4 CAROL ROBINSON GALLERY Spotlighting local and

national artists, this gallery showcases paintings, 42 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

French Antiques • Mirrors • GArden & LiGhtinG • Art new soFA showrooM

uphoLstered And sLip-covered

623 royAL street

French quArter

new orLeAns

504.529.4342 Antiquesdeprovence.coM

GALLERIES+ANTIQUES

sculpture and ceramics. www.carolrobinsongallery. com. 840 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.6130. Map 1, D4 COLE PRATT GALLERY One of Magazine Street’s

leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. www.coleprattgallery.com. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4 GUTHRIE CONTEMPORARY Paintings, pho-

tography and sculpture by both national and international artists is the focus here. www. guthriecontemporary.com. 3815 Magazine St., 504.897.2688. Map 1, D4 KEVIN STONE ANTIQUES This respected dealer

scours European estate sales for top-quality antiques, with an emphasis on unusual 18thand 19th-century items from France and Italy.

The inventory here runs the gamut from fine furnishings to decorative accessories. www. kevinstoneantiques.com. 3420 Magazine St., 504.891.8282. Map 1, D4 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERYStep into

this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4 TEN GALLERY Dedicated to emerging talents,

this collectively run space spotlights artists from New Orleans, Baton Rouge and around the region. www.tengallery.org. 4432 Magazine St., 504.333.1414. Map 1, D4 TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past

decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life, which have been commissioned by Nike, the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and others. terranceosborne.com. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4 THOMAS MANN GALLERY I/O This innovative de-

The Historic New Orleans Collection presents

Mardi Gras at Home at the Williams Residence A free exhibition on view through February 25, 2018

This winter, the home of THNOC’s founders—General and Mrs. L. Kemper Williams—will be decorated for the Carnival season. Photographs, Carnival royalty crown jewels, historic costume designs, and invitations collected by the passionate preservationists will be on display.

533 Royal Street Tuesday–Saturday, 9:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m.

Sunday, 10:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m.

Guided tours are available Tuesday–Sunday at 11 a.m., for $5 per person, through February 8.

(504) 523-4662 | www.hnoc.org

sign gallery is the showplace of “techno-romantic” designer Thomas Mann. In addition to works by Mann and other contemporary metalsmiths, you’ll find lamps and fine furnishings by a variety of designers. www.thomasmann.com. 1812 Magazine St., 504.581.2111. Map 1, D4 WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when

there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. www.wirthmoreantiques.com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4 ZACK SMITH PHOTOGRAPHY STUDIO If you’ve

ever attended French Quarter Fest, chances are you’ve spotted Smith and his camera standing out from the crowd. Prints of his fine art images are offered, in addition to photography workshops. www.zacksmith.com. 4514 Magazine St., 504.251.7745 Map 1, D4

Collectives ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for un-

TOP: Boeuf Gras (detail); 1949; watercolor by Boyd Cruise; The L. Kemper and Leila Moore Williams Founders Collection at THNOC, 1949.25 LEFT: Mrs. L. Kemper Williams, Queen of Mystic (detail); 1936; The L. Kemper and Leila Moore Williams Founders Collection at THNOC, 79-78-L.12

discovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works by dozens of regional artists.

Handmade jewelry and beads are also offered. www.artistsmarketnola.com. 85 French Market Place, 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 43

THE GUIDE

ARTS MARKET OF NEW ORLEANS This showcase

for local crafters, conducted by the Arts Council of New Orleans, takes place the last Saturday of each month in Mid-City’s Palmer Park. Works by more than 80 artists are featured. www.artscouncilofneworleans.org. Palmer Park (Carrollton and Claiborne avenues), 504.523.1465. Map 1, C3 DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ COOP This popular

artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. www. dutchalleyartistsco-op.com. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5 JACKSON SQUARE ART COLLECTIVE For more than

five decades, artists have been gathering around Jackson Square’s black iron fence, exposing their art to the public and the public to their art. One of the oldest active art colonies in the nation, the collective counts numerous artists displaying their works daily. www.jackson-square.com. Map 3, G5 RHINO CONTEMPORARY CRAFT CO. The acronym

that is this gallery’s name stands for “Right Here in New Orleans.” That means artists represented are local, displaying work such as handcrafted fashions, furnishings and accessories. www.rhinocrafts. com. 2028 Magazine St., 504.523.7945. Map 1, D4

Other Locations DR. BOB’S STUDIO ”Be Nice or Leave” is the

trademark slogan of self-taught artist Bob Shaffer, whose vibrant folk-art paintings are in the private collections of David Letterman, Mariah Carey and others. “Tourists tolerated.” www.drbobart.net.

3027 Chartres St., 504.945.2225. Map 1, E3 5 PRESS GALLERY Part of the New Orleans Center

for Creative Arts, this airy space spotlights works by professional artists with strong ties to the nationally acclaimed high school, from notable alumni to visiting artists-in-residence. www.5pressgallery.com. 5 Press St., 504.249.5624. Map 1, E3 FRENCHMEN ART MARKETThis after-dark art mart

takes place in a converted auto body shop (aka the Art Garage). From handcrafted jewelry to handmade soaps to folk art and photography, you’ll find an eclectic range of local artist’s wares, Th-Sa, 8 pm-1 am. www.frenchmenartmarket.com. 2231 St. Claude Ave., 504.717.0750. Map 3, J5 ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO Located in historic

Algiers Point in a renovated art deco building, this gallery features works by owner Mark Rosenbaum and others dealing in blown glass. www.rosetreegallery.com. 446 Vallette St., 504.366.3602. Map 3, G8 STUDIO BE Breakout local artist Brandan Odums’

giant graffiti-style murals are the perfect fit for this massive warehouse space in the Bywater neighborhood. The evocative collection explores African-American life, from the Civil Rights era to the Black Lives Matter movement, through powerful portraits of pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Sa, 2-8 pm. www.ephemeraleternal.com. 2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231. Map 1, E3 WHERE Y’ART GALLERY Love New Orleans art

but don’t have time to fully explore all of the city’s many galleries? Along with a brick-and-mortar space in the Marigny neighborhood, this local incubator offers a 24/7 virtual gallery featuring more than 100 area artists. www.whereyart.net. 1901 Royal St., 504.325.5672. Map 3, J4 44 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

6 17 B i e n v i l l e S t r e e t

New Orleans

Mon–Thur: 10–6 | Fri–Sat: 10–9 | Sun 11–6 michalopoulos.com

THE GUIDE

Entertainment

Something Borrowed, Something Blue

Costume Combat

How best to navigate jam-packed Mardi Gras parade routes? On one of the 700 Blue Bikes that recently hit the streets. The city’s new municipal bicycle-sharing program offers an easy alternative to Uber with dozens of rental/drop-off stations, stretching from the French Quarter to City Park and between the Bywater and Garden District neighborhoods. Riders register on the Blue Bikes website or app, where they receive account and pin numbers needed to unlock the bikes, which rent for $8 an hour and can be dropped off at any rack station citywide. For additional information and a map of locations, visit bluebikesnola.com … and get rolling.

Preening peacocks, way-out Willy Wonkas, sprawling Manhattan skylines: If it’s outrageous and over-the-top, you’re likely to see it—and then some—during the 54th annual Bourbon Street Awards. The campy costume contest draws thousands of spectators to the 800 block of Bourbon Feb. 13 at noon. Think you’ve seen it all? Think again.

Attractions & Landmarks ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great

Louis Armstrong, this recently refurbished 34-acre green space is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Also known as Congo Square, it was here that free people of color would gather during the 1700s to dance and drum—and where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2

(LEFT) ©JASON COHEN; (RIGHT) ©BRYAN NOLAN/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This

award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Admission includes a ticket for the Entergy Giant Screen Theater. $29.95 adults, $24.95 seniors and $21.95 ages 2-12. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-5 pm. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTA RIUM Located in the circa-1860 U.S. Custom

House, this ranks as the nation’s largest museum devoted to insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured, along with thousands of live and mounted species. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among

the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninsti-

tute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4 AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than

There’s a lot more going on on this this month.

FebruVisit us online: ary. wheretraveler.com Visit us online:

1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs from St. Charles streetcar stop 36. Open Tu-F, 10 am-4 pm; Sa-Su, 10 am-5 pm. www.auduboninstitute.org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4 CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities of

the dead” act as windows on the past, offering insight into local history and customs. St. Louis No. 1, just outside the French Quarter, is the city’s oldest; Lafayette No. 1 in the Garden District draws fans of vampire novelist Anne Rice, who set a number of her works there. Many are located in high-crime areas. Tours are available; do not venture in alone, day or night.

CHALMETTE BATTLEFIELD & NATIONAL CEM ETERYJust down the river from where Andrew

Jackson’s statue stands in the square that bears his name is the battlefield where he fought the last battle of the War of 1812. History buffs can check out the visitor center, listen to daily ranger talks, explore Chalmette National Cemetery or relax under the park’s live oaks. https://www.nps.gov/ jela/chalmette-battlefield.htm. 8606 W St Bernard Hwy., 504.281.0510. Map 1, F3 CHAMPIONS SQUAREThis open-air venue, adja-

cent to the Mercedes-Benz Superdome, boasts

45,000 sq. ft. and state-of-the-art technology. The space plays host to free fan fests during New Orleans Saints home games and numerous concerts throughout the year. www.champions-square.com. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3822. Map 3, B2

CINEBARRE CANAL PLACE 9 This state-of-the-art

movie theater offers nine separate screens, along with in-seat dining from its in-house café and bar. www.thetheatres.com. The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.493.6535. Map 3, E5 CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush

canopy for this 1,500-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. www. neworleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 CRESCENT PARK Looking for a unique view of the

city? Hop on the Elysian Fields Avenue elevator or climb the arching footbridge at Piety and Chartres streets, and stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront promenade. Stretching from the French Quarter to the Bywater neighborhood, the park offers jogging and biking paths, a dog run and pictureperfect picnic areas. www.crescentparknola. org. Map 3, J6 ESCAPE MY ROOMThe concept of this live, interac-

tive game is simple—solve the puzzle within an hour and you and your teammates “escape” the mystery room—but it’s way more complex (and fun) than that. A great activity for families and group team-building. Reservations required.

MARDI GRAS BEADS taking up too much luggage space? Drop them off for recycling at the Audubon Zoo, Aquarium or Butterfly Garden & Insectarium. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 45

THE GUIDE

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to coordinates on the maps on pages 69-71.

Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................45

Cruises & Tours ........................................................................................46 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 50 Performing Arits ................................................................................... 52 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 53 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 55

www.escapemyroom.com. 633 Constance St., 504.475.7580. Map 3, D6 FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market

dates to pre-colonial days, when the site served as a native American trading post. Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. www.frenchmarket.org. French Market Place, 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5 FULTON ALLEY Putting a fresh spin on the old

bowling alley, this upscale venue offers 12 lanes in a sleek setting, along with an indoor game parlor (bocce, foosball, etc.), cool craft cocktails and big-flavored small plates. Not a bowler? Not a prob. Both the bar and restaurant are accessible separately from the alley. www.fultonalley.com.

600 Fulton St., 504.208.5569. Map 3, D6 HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino is

located at the foot of Canal Street. This mammoth pleasure palace features five New Orleansthemed areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 table games, live entertainment and a lavish buffet. www.harrahsneworleans.com. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6 JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was

originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo op. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street Map 3, G5 JEAN LAFITTE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK AND PRESERVE On this 23,000-acre area of protected

wetlands, you’ll get to see egrets, cranes, pelicans and alligators in their natural habitat. Wooden walkways allow you to explore deep into the swamp. www.nps.gov/jela. 6588 Barataria Blvd., Marrero, 504.589.3882.

LAFITTE GREENWAYThis 2.6-mile bike and pedes-

trian trail connects Armstrong Park to City Park.

The ADA-compliant green corridor, dotted with recreation fields, offers quiet retreat in the heart of the city. www.lafittegreenway.org. . Map 3, F2 MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year

long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. The tour features a video on the history of Mardi Gras. $19.95 adults, $15.95 seniors/students/military, $12.95 ages 12-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4:30 pm. www. mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8 46 W H E R E XC I T Y I M O N T X 2 01 X

MERCEDESBENZ SUPERDOME The recently re-

vamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. www.mbsuperdome.com. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2 NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS

Located one block from the Magazine Street shopping corridor, this popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS BOTANICAL & TRAIN GARDENS

City Park’s beautiful Botanical Gardens feature more than 2,000 tropical and subtropical plants, along with the Historic Train Garden, a miniature railroad exhibit with landmarks constructed of botanical matter. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm; train garden, weekends only. $6 adults, $3 children. www.neworleanscitypark.com. Victory Ave., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 NEW ORLEANS FAIR GROUNDS RACE COURSE In

operation since 1872, this ranks as the nation’s third-oldest Thoroughbred race course.

The site serves as home base for the annual New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival. www. fairgroundsracecourse.com. 1751 Gentilly Blvd., 504.944.5515. Map 1, D2 NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This

pocket-size park celebrates Bourbon Street’s bigger-than-life musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and, naturally, live music. www.neworleansmusicallegends.com.

311 Bourbon St., 504.888.7608. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISI ANA GENERAL STORE Creole/Cajun cooking

demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com.

524 St. Louis St., 504.208.5320. Map 3, F5 OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is the

oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M-F, 10 am-4 pm; Sa, 9 am-3 pm. $8 adults, $7 seniors, $6 students/military; ages 8 and under free. www.stlouiscathedral. org. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4 PONTALBA BUILDINGS Erected in 1851, the stately

red-brick townhouses flanking Jackson Square rank as the first apartment complex in the United States.

Inspired by the Palais-Royal and the Place des Vosges in Paris, the twin buildings feature apartments upstairs, retail spaces below and ornate cast-iron galleries. Map 3, G5 PORT OF NEW ORLEANS More than a million pas-

sengers pass through the Crescent City’s cruise terminal each year, making it one of the most popular destinations in the nation to embark/ disembark. www.portno.com. 1350 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.2551. Map 3, D8 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Super-

dome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. www.smoothiekingcenter.com. 1501 Dave Dixon Drive, 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2

ST. AUGUSTINE CHURCH Founded by free people

of color in 1841, St. Augustine, located in the historic Tremé neighborhood adjacent to the French Quarter, is the second-oldest African-American Catholic church in the nation. www.staugustinecatholicchurch-neworleans.org. 1210 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.525.5934 Map 3, I2 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in

1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI, and visited

by Pope John Paul II in 1987. Mass said daily. www. stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4 WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront prom-

enade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6

Cruises & Tours A BICYCLE NAMED DESIRE Located at the address

of Stanley and Stella Kowalski’s fictional residence, this bike shop (an offshoot of Confederacy of Cruisers) provides “rentals for the independent traveler.”

Half, full, multi-day and weekly rates are offered. www.abicyclenameddesire.com. 632 Elysian Fields Ave., 504.345.8966. Map 3, J5 AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore secluded areas

of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. CAJUN ENCOUNTERS Daily tours for both large

and small groups are offered, along with hotel pickups and drop-offs. Call for times, prices and reservations. Honey Island Swamp Tour –2 hours City Cemeteries Tour –2 hours Oak Alley and Laura Plantation Tour –6.5 hours www. cajunencounters.com. 55345 Highway 90, Slidell, 504.834.1770. Map 2, G1 CANOE & TRAIL ADVENTURES Explore Lake

Pontchartrain the way Native Americans did. Daily three-hour, eco-friendly canoe and kayak excursions with certified guides are offered, along with moonlight and twilight outings. Transportation available; prices vary. www.canoeandtrail.com.

504.233.0686.

CELEBRATION DISTILLATION TOURS The mak-

ers of Old New Orleans Rum offer tours of their facility—the oldest premium distillery continually operating in the United States—M-F (noon, 2 and 4 pm) and Sa-Su (2 and 4 pm). Get a taste of the distillation process...and of the company’s awardwinning spirits. Reservations recommended. Grab a cab. $10; 21+ only. www.oldneworleansrum.com.

2815 Frenchmen St., 504.945.9400. Map 1, E2 CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides

intimate group tours of the French Quarter, Garden District and area cemeteries, along with Hurricane Katrina recovery excursions and private outings.

Tours average 2.5 to three hours; rates vary. www. celebrationtoursllc.com. 504.587.7115.

CITY SEGWAY TOURS Why walk when you can

glide? Guided two- and three-hour Segway tours of the French Quarter and Tremé are offered daily. Private excursions are also available. www.citysegwaytours.com. 214 Decatur St., 877.734.8687. Map 3, E5

THE GUIDE

CITY SIGHTSEEING This fun and informative

double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off— then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm.

Unlimited hop-on, hop-off sightseeing: Adult 1-day ticket: $39; adult 3-day ticket (includes free guided walking tours of the French Quarter and Garden District): $49; children (ages 3-12), $10 any tour. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS These guided

bicycle tours take visitors out of the French Quarter and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored nabes. Cocktail and culinary excursions are also offered. www.confederacyofcruisers.com. 634 Eylsian Fields Ave., 504.400.5468. Map 3, J5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour

Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7 DESTINATION KITCHENThese deliciously fun tours

provide a real taste of New Orleans. A variety of culinary and cocktail excursions are offered, along with French Quarter and Garden District walking tours. Custom outings are also available. www. destination-kitchen.com. 885.353.6634.

DRINK & LEARN Culinary historian Elizabeth Pearce

leads these fun and informative tippling tours

through the French Quarter. www.drinkandlearn. com. 504.578.8280.

FLAMBEAUX BICYCLE TOURS These three-hour

guided bike rides explore the French Quarter and Tremé neighborhoods, along with Armstrong Park and the Mississippi riverfront. Tours are $45; rentals are $25/day. www.neworleansbike.tours. 626 N. Rampart St., 504.321.1505. Map 3, G3 FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS All tours

depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street), run about two hours and cover close to one mile. Custom and private excursions are also available. Reservations required. Ghost & Vampire Tour –$20. Departs nightly, 6 and 8 pm. St. Louis #1 Cemetery Tour –$20. Departs M-Sa at 11 am and 1 pm; Su at 10 am. Tremé Tour –$20. Departs Sa-M at 10 am. True Crime Tour –Private tour, call for reservations. www.frenchquarterphantoms.com. 625 St. Philip St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4 FRENCH QUARTOUR KIDS These guided walks

take children on a journey back in time through the streets of the historic Vieux Carré. Call for reservations and locations. www.frenchquartourkids.com.

504.975.5355.

FRIENDS OF THE CABILDO Informative, two-hour

walking tours of the French Quarter are offered daily at 10 am and 1:30 pm. $20 adults, $15 students/seniors/active military, children under 12 free. www.friendsofthecabildo.org. Departs from the 1850 House museum store. 523 St. Ann St., 504.523.3939. Map 3, G5

GRAY LINE TOURS Gray Line offers a variety of city

tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind Jax Brewery. Super City Tour –2.25 hrs. City Express Tour –1.25 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs.

Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs. Katrina/City Tour –3.5 hrs. Double Plantation Tour –7.25 hrs. Oak Alley Plantation –5/7.25 hrs. Whitney Plantation –5/7.25 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs. Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2 hrs. Garden District Walking Tour –2.75 hrs. Swamp & Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs.

Airboat Tour –3.75 hrs.Original Cocktail Tour –2.5 hrs. Plantation/Swamp Tour –5.5 hrs.For tickets and further information: www.graylineneworleans.com.

400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5 HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Meet guides 15 min.

prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/ military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am and 1:15 pm from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.).

Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Vampire Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.).

Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400

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E N T E R TA I N M E N T

block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Pub Crawl –2 hrs. Departs nightly (5:30 and 8:15 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires, Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 and

7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www. hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727.

HONEY ISLAND SWAMP TOURS These narrated,

two-hour tours are limited in size, allowing guides to maneuver small boats deep into scenic Honey Island Swamp, where you’ll see everything from live alligators to bald eagles. $23 adults, $15 children.

Hotel pickups and drop-offs are available. www. honeyislandswamp.com. 985.641.1769.

JEAN LAFITTE HISTORICAL TOURS These National

Park Service walking tours focus on the history of the Mississippi River Delta and depart 9:30 am daily (except Christmas and Mardi Gras). Tickets are free, but there is a 25-person limit per tour; pick up tickets after 9 am (one pass issued per person). www.nps.gov/jela. 419 Decatur St., 504.589.2636. Map 3, F5 KAYAKITIYAT Kayak tours of beautiful Bayou

St. John, which cuts a scenic swatch through the midsection of the city, are offered daily; call for launch times. $40/two hours; $65/four hours. Tours of Bayou Bienvenue are also featured; $70. www. kayakitiyat.com. (Bayou St. John tours launch across from 3494 Esplanade Ave.) 985.778.5034 ; 512.964.9499. Map 1, D2

LAFITTE’S BARATARIA MUSEUM & WETLAND TRACE Charting the 200-year backstory of the

town of Jean Lafitte, this museum explores the fishing village’s history and pirate lore through a variety of multimedia exhibits while also examining the effects of coastal erosion. A nature trail leads visitors through a mile and a half of cypress swamp. $12 adults, $6 children. www.townofjeanlafitte.com.

4917 City Park Dr., 504.689.7009.

NEW ORLEANS BREWS CRUISE Get a taste of the

local craft-beer scene with a tour of area breweries.

Learn about the brewing process while sampling three to five varieties at each stop. City breweries are spotlighted Fri at 6 pm and Sa-Su 2 pm; Northshore brewery tours are also offered. Great for groups or corporate outings; private and customized excursions are also available. www. neworleansbrewscruise.com. 504.517.4671.

NEW ORLEANS ELECTRIC CARSToo hot to hoof it

on foot? Tool around in one of these cool rentals instead. The easy-to-operate, all-electric vehicles seat up to six passengers. www.neworleanselectriccars.com. 235 Basin St., 504.274.2555. Map 3, F2 NEW ORLEANS JOGGING TOURS Get fit and

informed at the same time. Guided jogs through the French Quarter and Garden District are offered daily; customized tours are also available. Groups meet at the corner of Decatur and Barracks streets. www.neworleansjoggingtours.com. Map 3, I5 NEW ORLEANS SPIRITS AND SPELLS TOURThese

guided spirited journeys through the French Quar-

ter explore the ghosts, gris-gris and witchery associated with the world’s most magical city. Departs nightly at 7 pm from Hex: Old World Witchery. www.spiritsandspellstour.com. 1219 Decatur St., 504.667.5570. Map 3, I5 SAVE OUR CEMETERIES Lafayette No. 1: departs

daily at 10:30 am and 1 pm from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). $15; free 12 and under. St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am, 11:30 am and Su at 10 am from Basin Street Station Visitors Center (501 Basin St.). $20; free 12 and under. Reservations recommended. www. saveourcemeteries.org. 504.525.3377.

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steam-

boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com.

504.569.1401. Map 3, E7 TABASCO PEPPER SAUCE FACTORY TOUR Free

guided daily tours, 9 am-4 pm, except major holidays. www.tabasco.com. La. Hwy. 329, Avery Island, La., 337.365.8173. Map 2, C2 VIP CITY TOURS These two-hour excursions offer

a sweeping overview of the city, from the French Quarter and the Garden District to Lake Pontchartrain and the Lower 9th Ward. Tours conducted daily at 9 am, 1 and 4 pm. www.vipcitytours.com.

701 Canal St., 504.329.2489. Map 3, E4

w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 49

THE GUIDE

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VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS These

two-hour walking tours cover close to one mile. $25 adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required.

All tours depart from701 Royal St.; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm.

For tickets and further information: www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040.

Museums & Exhibits ABITA MYSTERY HOUSE This one requires a car,

but is well worth the price of a rental for outsider art fans. Housed in a former filling station in nearby Abita Springs, artist John Preble’s eccentric sendup of “redneck culture” features offbeat oddities fashioned from more than 50,000 found objects. $3 (free 3 and under). Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. www. abitamysteryhouse.com. 22275 Hwy. 36, Abita Springs, 985.892.2624. Map 2, F1 AMERICAN ITALIAN MUSEUM This cultural center

pays tribute to the history and contributions of Italian-Americans in Louisiana and the Southeast through a variety of exhibits. $8 adults, $5 seniors/ students, free ages 11 and under. Open Tu-F, 10 am-4 pm. www.americanitalianculturalcenter.com.

537 S. Peters St., 504.522.7294. Map 3, D6 BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM Located in a

former funeral parlor, this offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs, in addition to archival items and photos from second-line parades. Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display.

Admission $10; open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www. backstreetmuseum.org. 1116 Henriette Delille St., 504.522.4806. Map 3, I2 BEAUREGARDKEYES HOUSE This beautifully

restored 1826 villa and garden was the home of Confederate General P.G.T. Beauregard and novelist Francis Parkinson Keyes. Tours offered hourly M-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. $10 adults, $9 seniors/ students, $7.50 active military, $4 ages 6-12, under 6 free. www.bkhouse.org. 1113 Chartres St., 504.523.7257. Map 3, H4 CONFEDERATE MEMORIAL HALL MUSEUM Estab-

lished in 1891 by Civil War vets and their families, this is Louisiana’s oldest continually operating museum and the second largest collection of Confederate memorabilia in the country. $10 adults, $5 ages 14 and under. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www.confederatemuseum.com. 929 Camp St., 504.523.4522. Map 3, B6 CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier

modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also plays host to performances. $10; $8 seniors/students. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. www. cacno.org. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6 DEGAS HOUSE The home where Edgar Degas lived

during his time in New Orleans is filled with prints of the French impressionist’s works. Two-hour tours of the 1852 property are offered daily at 10:30 am and 1:45 pm, and by appointment. $29. Reservations required. www.degashouse.com. 2306 Esplanade Ave., 504.821.5009. Map 1, D2 GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New

Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s, and was rat50 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

ed one of the country’s top museums by The New York Times. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www. hgghh.org. 1132 Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4 GEORGE AND LEAH MCKENNA MUSEUM OF AFRI CAN AMERICAN ART Housed in an 1860s Greek

Revival mansion, this collection celebrating African-American culture features works by such artists as Henry Ossawa Tanner and Clementine Hunter. $10 adults, $7 seniors/students. Open to the public by appointment. www.themckennamuseum.com.

2003 Carondelet St., 504.323.5074. Map 1, D3 GERMAINE CAZENAVE WELLS MARDI GRAS MUSEUM Carnival pageantry, 1937-1968: lavish

gowns, costumes and memorabilia of the late Wells, queen of 26 Mardi Gras balls. Located above Arnaud’s restaurant. Free; open during regular restaurant hours (nightly, 6-10 pm). www.arnauds. com/about/mardi-gras-museum. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 HERMANNGRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/

museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen.

Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750. Map 3, F4 HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove

of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 LE MUSÉE DE F.P.C. This museum explores

the history, culture and contributions of New Orleans’ free people of color. Spanning three centuries, exhibits include original manumission documents, 19th-century paintings and an 1864 right-to-vote petition. Open W-Su, 1-4 pm, and by appointment. $15 adults, $12 students/groups. www.lemuseedefpc.com. 2236 Esplanade Ave., 504.323.5074. Map 1, D3 LONGUE VUE HOUSE & GARDENS Designated a

National Historic Landmark, this 1939 Classical Revival home is modeled after an English country estate, with eight acres of gardens to explore.

Guided tours available daily. $12 adults, $10 seniors, $8 students 11 and older, $5 children, 2 and under and active military with ID free. Open M-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm. www.longuevue.com. 7 Bamboo Road, 504.488.5488. Map 1, D2 LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM Children learn

through hands-on exhibits at this award-winning museum. Permanent exhibits include ”Little Port of New Orleans” and “New Orleans: Proud to Call It Home.” Adults/children $8.50. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, noon-4:30 pm. www.lcm.org. 420 Julia St., 504.523.1357. Map 3, C6 LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS Open Tu-Su, 10

am-4:30 pm. $6 adults, $5 students/seniors/active military, children under 6 free.Arsenal (inside the Cabildo)–Used as a military prison during the

Civil War.Cabildo (Jackson Square)–This historic structure next to St. Louis Cathedral was the site of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. Continuing: “The Cabildo: Two Centuries of Louisiana History.”

1850 House (Lower Pontalba Building, 523 St. Ann St.)–Antebellum family life in New Orleans is depicted and described here. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm. $3 adults, $2 students/seniors/active military, children under 6 free.Madame John’s Legacy (632 Dumaine St.)–Built in 1789, this is one of the few extant Creole buildings in the Mississippi Valley. FreeOld U.S. Mint (400 Esplanade Ave.)–Constructed in 1834, this is the only building to have served as both a U.S. and Confederate mint. Presbytère (Jackson Square)–Continuing: “Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana” and “Living With Hurricanes: Katrina & Beyond.”For tickets and further information: louisianastatemuseum.org. 504.568.6968.

MARDI GRAS MUSEUM OF COSTUMES AND CUL TURE Carl “Mr. Costume” Mack displays his

private collection of Carnival get-ups in this sprawling space connected to his rental shop. Spotlighting the artistry behind the designs, the museum features a “costume closet,” in which visitors can explore their own creativity. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. $12 adults, $8 LA residents, $10 seniors and ages 16 and under. www.themardigrasmuseum. com. 1010 Conti St., 504.218.4872.

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history trib-

ute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries,” while the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center offers “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience,” and the new Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses the “Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $27 adults, $23.50 seniors, $17.50 students/military, free for WWII vets and children under 5. “Beyond All Boundaries” and “Final Mission” an additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6 NEW ORLEANS HISTORIC VOODOO MUSEUM

Explore this misunderstood religion through the museum’s artifacts and exhibits. Readings are also offered. $7 adults, $5.50 college students/seniors, $3.50 children (free under 5). Open daily, 10 am-6 pm. www.voodoomuseum.com. 724 Dumaine St., 504.680.0128. Map 3, H4 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the

South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings. The Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers more than 50 sculptures by major 20th-century artists. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $8 college students, $6 ages 7-12, free ages 6 and under. Sculpture Garden open M-F, 10 am-6 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm; free. www. noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2 NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM This former

apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain.

Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. $5 adults, $4 seniors/students, under 6 free. www.pharmacymuseum.org.

514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4 NEWCOMB ART MUSEUM The Newcomb College

division of Tulane University is known worldwide for its Arts and Crafts pottery. Its museum features

THE GUIDE

rare examples from the early 20th century, in addition to traveling exhibits. Free; open Tu-F, 10 am-5 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-4 pm. www.newcombartgallery. tulane.edu. Woldenberg Art Center, Tulane University, 504.865.5328. Map 1, D3 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART The most

comprehensive collection of its kind, this Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South with emphasis on photography, outsider art and the richness of the region’s cultural diversity. $13.50 adults, $11 seniors/students, $6.75 children (under 5 free).

Open Fri-W 10 am-5 pm; Th 10 am-8 pm for Ogden After Hours. www.ogdenmuseum.org. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6 PITOT HOUSE MUSEUM Located along scenic

Bayou St. John, this circa-1799 home, built for New Orleans’ second mayor, is an excellent example of a Creole plantation house. Open W-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. $10 adults, $7 children, free ages 6 and under. www.louisianalandmarks.org. 1440 Moss St., 504.482.0312. Map 1, D2 PRESERVATION RESOURCE CENTER The PRC is

an essential stop for lovers of local architecture, and contains a wealth of information on the city’s buildings and neighborhoods. Open M-F, 9 am-5 pm. www.prcno.org. 923 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.581.7032. Map 3, B7 SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM

Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFAB, located in a revamped circa-1849 market, features rotating and permanent exhibits, along with twiceweekly cooking classes. Adults, $10.50; students/ seniors, $5.25; children under 12, free. Open W-M, 11 am-5:30 pm. www.southernfood.org. 1504 Oretha C. Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3

Open Tuesday through Saturday 10 am - 4 pm by Admission

WILLIAMS RESEARCH CENTER The research arm

of the Historic New Orleans Collection houses a sparkling repository of documents as well as rotating exhibits and a knowledgeable, friendly staff. Free. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. www.hnoc.org. 410 Chartres St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, F4

Performing Arts CIVIC THEATRE New Orleans’ oldest theater, dat-

ing to 1906, has hosted everything from vaudeville shows to discos. Shuttered during the 1990s, the 1,200-seat venue received a $10 million overhaul in 2013, and now features concerts by top national touring acts. www.civicnola.com. 510 O’Keefe Ave., Map 3, C4 JOY THEATERThis 1940s movie palace has been

revamped as a multi-use facility for musical, comedy and theatrical productions, as well as a space for special events. www.thejoytheater.com. 1200 Canal St., 504.528.9569. Map 1, D2

Bubbles, Bourbon & Wine

Amazing Grapes

Wine Tasting, Auction & Creole Cuisine

LE PETIT THÉÂTRE DU VIEUX CARRÉ This historic

space houses one the nation’s longest-running community playhouses. Step into the adjacent Tableau restaurant for pre- and post-theater cocktails. www.lepetittheatre.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.522.2081. Map 3, G4 MAHALIA JACKSON THEATRE FOR THE PERFORM ING ARTS This 2,100 seat theater, located in sce-

nic Armstrong Park, received a multimillion-dollar, post-Katrina overhaul. The state-of-the-art venue is home to performances by the New Orleans Opera and the New Orleans Ballet, as well as national 52 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

Friday, March 16, 2018

820 St. Louis Street • New Orleans, LA Tickets available online at 501auctions.com/amazinggrapes/tickets or call (504) 274-0746

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touring acts. www.mahaliajacksontheatre.com. 801 N. Rampart St., 504.525.1052. Map 3, H2 ORPHEUM THEATER Reopened following a floor-

to-ceiling renovation, this jaw-dropping 1,500 seat theater (home of the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra) features two balcony levels, VIP box seating, six bars—some located in the stairwells. www.orpheumnola.com. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4870. Map 3, E3 SAENGER THEATREThis circa-1927 baroque

beauty plays host to the popular Broadway Across America series, in addition to major music and comedy acts. www.saengernola.com. 1111 Canal St., 504.287.0351. Map 3, E3

Cocktails ALTO Get above it all at the Ace Hotel’s rooftop

bar, which offers amazing views and poolside dining. Open daily, 10 am-9 pm. www.acehotel. com/neworleans/alto. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map3, C5 ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic

cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 ATTIKI This hookah bar offers an exotic getaway

without ever leaving the French Quarter. Order an arak (a traditional Middle Eastern anise-flavored cocktail), load the hookah and check out the belly dancers. www.attikineworleans.com. 230 Decatur St., 504.587.3756. Map 3, F5 AVENUE PUB The New Orleans go-to for craft

beers, offering the city’s largest available selection of locally produced brews. www. theavenuepub.com. 1732 St. Charles Ave., 504.586.9243. Map 1, D3 BAR TONIQUE This sleek and chic boite brings a

welcome air of sophistication to North Rampart Street. Dark woods and candlelight set the mood for top-shelf cocktails, house-made tonics and an extensive selection of wines by the glass. www.bartonique.com. 820 N. Rampart St., 504.324.6045. Map 3, H3 BARCADIA A bar and arcade in one—get it? Old-

school games (Jenga, skeeball, air hockey) are the draw...along with 30-plus beers on tap. Hungry?

Grab a burger or a fried PB&J. barcadianola.com.

601 Tchoupitoulas St, 504.335.1740. Map 3, D6 BARREL PROOF From Japanese Yamazaki to

Kentucky-aged Old Grand-Dad, the top shelf at this hip Lower Garden District spot holds more than 150 brands of whiskey from around the globe. Dig the stuffed bobcat and cow-skin rugs. www.barrelproofnola.com. 1201 Magazine St. 504.299.1888 Map 3, A7 BAYOU BEER GARDEN One of the first bona fide

beer gardens in the city, Bayou offers a huge patio with plenty of seating. The beer list is extensive with more than 100 choices on tap and in the bottle or can. www.bayoubeergarden.com. 326 N. Jefferson Davis Pkwy., 504.302.9357. Map 1, D3 BAYOU WINE GARDENThis casual Mid-City spot

offers 32 rotating wines on draft and a huge bottled selection. Cheese and charcuterie boards are also available, in addition to small and large plates. More a suds fan? Cross the courtyard bridge to the adjacent Bayou Beer Garden. www.bayouwinegarden.com. 315 N. Rendon St., 504.826.2925. Map 1, D3 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 53

THE GUIDE

THE BULLDOG The patio is the way to go at

this British-themed pub, where the fountain is fashioned from dozens of old beer taps. Only fitting given the dog-friendly tavern’s 50-plus draft beers and additional 100 varieties offered by the bottle. www.draftfreak.com. 3236 Magazine St., 504.891.1516. Map 1, D4; 5135 Canal Blvd., 504.488.4191. Map 1, D2 COOP’S PLACE Coop’s is a local mix of billiards,

tattoos, a great jukebox and some ambitious, delicious bar cuisine, all in a lively, no-kids-allowed atmosphere. www.coopsplace.net. 1109 Decatur St., 504.525.9053. Map 3, I5 COURT OF TWO SISTERS CARRIAGEWAY BAR Lo-

cated in a 19th-century French Quarter carriageway, this bar features an picturesque courtyard, fireplace and tons of ambiance. www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 COURTYARD BREWERY Beer lovers will fall for

the small batches with big taste at this Lower Garden District micro-micro brewery. A snack with your brew? Check the rotating schedule of food trucks. www.courtyardbrewing.com. 1020 Erato St.. Map 3, A7 COYOTE UGLY This raucous, tequila-soaked chain

of roadhouses spawned the film of the same name, and the female bartenders have been featured in magazines such as Maxim. www.coyoteuglysaloon. com. 225 N. Peters St., 504.561.0003. Map 3, F5 CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE The Quarter’s only

brewpub. Microbrews, nightly live music, local art and sophisticated cuisine make the Brewhouse a winner. www.crescentcitybrewhouse.com. 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, F5 CURE This cutting-edge cocktail lounge, housed

in a former fire station, has one foot in the 19th century and one in the 21st. The cocktail menu is also half old fashioned and half modern, making Cure one of the hippest places in town to imbibe and socialize. www.curenola.com. 4905 Freret St., 504.302.2357. Map 1, D3 DOS JEFES UPTOWN CIGAR BAR Along with a large

selection of stogies, single malt scotches and beers on tap, this cozy nightspot serves up live music nightly. Off the beaten path...and all the better for it. www.dosjefescigarbar.com. 5535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.891.8500. Map 1, D4 EFFERVESCENCEThis bubbly spot features 90-plus

bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates, ranging from grilled octopus to caviar and potato chips. Open W-Su. www.nolabubbles.com. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3 EVANGELINEStep into the back courtyard at

this French Quarter restaurant, and the city feels miles away. Beer lovers will swoon over the great selection of regional craft brews. www. evangelineneworleans.com. 329 Decatur St., 504.373.4852. Map 3, F5 F&M PATIO BAR With its jumpin’ jukebox, massive

outdoor area and affordable drinks, this local legend draws a large collegiate crowd and loyal late-nighters. www.fandmpatiobar.com. 4841 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.895.6784. Map 1, D4 HERMES BAR This sophisticated hideaway, tucked

inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great ambiance, knowledgeable bartenders and access to the historic eatery’s full menu. Live entertainment 54 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

on weekends. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4 HOT TIN Named after a Tennessee Williams play—

the author once stayed here—this Garden District hot spot is located on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel. Modeled after an artist’s loft, the sophisticated space offers creative cocktails and amazing views. www.hottinbar.com. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1453. Map 1, D3 LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic

cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5 MOLLY’S AT THE MARKET Musicians and media

types, literati and eccentrics: Good old Molly’s has one of the best mixes of French Quarter folk (and with-the-beat visitors) at any hour of the day or night. www.mollysatthemarket.net. 1107 Decatur St., 504.525.5169. Map 3, I5 NOLA BREWINGWeekly brewery tours, a mas-

sive tap room and in-house barbecue make this a must-stop for beer fans. Check out the many seasonal beers, from the spicy Flambeau Red Ale to the summery 7th Street Wheat. www. nolabrewing.com. 3001 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.9996. Map 3, D4 OLD ABSINTHE HOUSE A favored tavern of such

bon vivants as Oscar Wilde, Mark Twain and Walt Whitman, this historic bar continues to draw absinthe enthusiasts and those thirsty for a taste of authentic New Orleans as it has since 1806. www.oldabsinthehouse.com. 240 Bourbon St., 504.523.3181. Map 3, F4 OLD POINT BAR Located in Algiers Point (a

quick ferry ride from the French Quarter), the Old Point Bar is on the levee of the Mississippi River. Local musicians abound—both on stage and in the audience. Hip local crowd; no attitude. www.oldpointbar.com. 545 Patterson Dr., 504.364.0950. Map 3, G8 PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail,

this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. www.patobriens.com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4 PATRICK’S BAR VIN Krewe of Cork founder and

all-around grape guy Patrick Van Hoorebeek’s namesake wine bar offers dozens of vintages by the glass and even more by the bottle. Cocktails, cheeses and charcuterie are also served. www.patricksbarvin.com. 730 Bienville St., 504.200.3180. Map 3, F4 THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s

club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. www.penthouseclubneworleans.com. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4 POLO CLUB LOUNGE This elegant spot in the

equally elegant Windsor Court Hotel offers an extensive wine selection and incredible edibles, along with live entertainment Tu-Sa. www.grillroomneworleans.com. 300 Gravier St., 504.523.6000. Map 3, D5 R BAR This unpretentious Faubourg Marigny

watering hole is a favorite among locals and visitors

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who happen by during the free Friday seafood boils. Drop in on Mondays for a haircut—and a shot. www.royalstreetinn.com. 1431 Royal St., 504.948.7499. Map 3, J4 RICK’S CABARET This recently revamped

18,000-sq.-ft. venue—named one of “America’s Best Strip Clubs” by Playboy—offers three floors, a great sound system and a private VIP section. www.iknowrick.com. 315 Bourbon St., 504.524.4222. Map 3, F4 RICK’S SPORTING SALOON The traditional sports

bar gets kicked up several notches at this Bourbon Street hot spot, which scores extra points with its handsome decor and gorgeous entertainers.

The club features 10 high-definition TVs, along with 10 beers on draft, each kept at a cool 32 degrees. www.ricks-saloon.com/. 522 Bourbon St., 504.552.2510. Map 3, G4 SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic

cocktails in the beautifully restored Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the official cocktail of New Orleans—or a Ramos Gin Fizz, both of which were perfected here. Check out the WPA-era murals on the walls. www. therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3 SECOND LINE BREWING Housed in a repurposed

industrial space, this brewery brings hoppy goodness to the Mid-City neighborhood. Flagship ales, growlers and test brews, as well as a rotating cast of food trucks, can be found in its outdoor beer garden Th-Su. www.secondlinebrewing.com. 433 N Bernadotte St., 504.248.8979. Map 1, D2

10AM UNTIL 7 DAYS A WEEK

THE TCHOUP YARD Beach bar meets beer garden

at this Lower Garden District spot, with local brews and frozen drinks on tap. An ever-changing list of food trucks/pop-ups complete the menu. 405 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.895.6747. Map 1, E4 TIKI TOLTECA A bit of the tropics on the edge of

the French Quarter. Totems and coconut heads grace the bar, which serves up mai tais, zombies and flaming Escorpion Punch W-M nights. www. tikitolteca.com. 301 N. Decatur St. (inside Felipe’s), 504.267.4406. Map 3, F5 URBAN SOUTH BREWING Housed in a 19th-century

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warehouse, this modern-minded brewery is out to “re-establish New Orleans as the beer capital of the South.” Its kid-friendly taproom (yes, you read right) features a variety of brews crafted on site. www.urbansouthbrewery.com. 1645 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.67.4852. Map 1, E4 W.I.N.O. Wine Institute New Orleans—bet-

ter known by its tongue-and-cheek acronym W.I.N.O.—offers an innovative “enomatic” tasting system that allows you to sample 120 wines from around the globe by the glass, half-glass or taste.

Open M-Th. www.winoschool.com. 610 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.324.8000. Map 3, D5 WALKON’S Fittingly within walking distance of

the Superdome, this popular game-day gathering ground is part restaurant, part sports bar and all fun. Looking for a rowdy atmosphere with selfserve taps in which to watch the game? You’ve found it. www.walk-ons.com. 1009 Poydras St., 504.309.6530. Map 3, C3

Live Entertainment APPLE BARREL This raffish joint is tiny but has a

warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performw w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 55

THE GUIDE

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

ing in a corner of the crowded room. Steamy windows face the nightlife bustle of Frenchmen Street and the benches outside make ideal perches for people-watching. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J5 BALCONY MUSIC CLUB Visitors in search of a

“regular” kind of local hangout need look no further than this low-key French Quarter venue, which boasts two bars, great draft beer, pool, darts and nightly live music. 1331 Decatur St., 504.599.7770. Map 3, I5 BAMBOULA’SAnchoring Frenchmen Street, this

full-service restaurant and bar also serves up great live music. The nightly roster runs the gamut, from jazz and blues to swing and brass bands. www. bamboulasnola.com. 504.944.8461. Map 3, J5 BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue

is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts such as Kermit Ruffins and the Washboard Chaz Trio perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. www.bluenilelive.com. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.948.2583. Map 3, J5 BULLET’S SPORTS BAR Looking for a real-deal

NOLA experience? You’ll find it at this friendly, neighborhood nightspot, where trumpeter Kermit Ruffins performs most Tuesdays and the all-female Pinettes brass band rules on Fridays. 2441 A.P. Tureaud Ave., 504.669.4464. Map 1, E2 CAFÉ NEGRIL This intimate club features crowd-

pleasing live acts, ranging from jazz and blues to rock and reggae (Fridays), and the island-themed atmosphere sets a mellow vibe. While the dance floor fills up, the open kitchen turns out tacos, burritos and quesadillas. 606 Frenchmen St., 504.944.4744. Map 3, J5 CAROUSEL BAR Located in the Hotel Monteleone,

this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers) and was a favorite of such literary lights as Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote. The recently revamped venue now features live music Tu-Sa. www.hotelmonteleone. com. 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4 CHICKIE WAH WAH This hot venue keeps the

Mid-City music scene at a steady boil with sets by leading jazz and funk acts. www.chickiewahwah. com. 2828 Canal St., 844.244.2543. Map 1, D3 CHRIS OWENS’ CLUB The durable and energetic

Miss Owens’ one-woman, salsa-and-Vegas-flavored shows (W-Sa, 9 and 10:30 pm) are the last of their ilk in the Quarter, if not the world. Don’t be surprised if Chris leads a conga line onto Bourbon Street. 500 Bourbon St., 504.523.6400. Map 3, F4 CIRCLE BAR This tiny Lee Circle bar draws a loyal

crowd of neighborhood night crawlers, habitual hipsters and tourists looking for a slice of local life.

Great jukebox; live music starts around 10 pm. www.circlebarnola.com. 1032 St. Charles Ave., 504.588.2616. Map 3, B6 COLUMNS BAR This stately Victorian on St. Charles

Avenue is a choice hangout for Uptowners. Watch the streetcar roll past while sipping a cocktail on the front porch, or relax in the 19th-century splendor of the indoor bar. Live music nightly. www.thecolumns.com. 3811 St. Charles Ave., 504.899.9308. Map 1, D4 D.B.A. This chic hangout on the Frenchmen strip

features 20 premium draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and live music nightly. Lively 56 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

wee-hours scene. www.dbaneworleans.com. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5 THE DAVENPORT LOUNGE An elegant escape

inside the Ritz-Carlton offering classic New Orleans cocktails and sexy small plates, along with entertainment by celebrity trumpeter/crooner Jeremy Davenport. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.524.1331. Map 3, E3 FRITZEL’S EUROPEAN JAZZ PUB A German jazz

club? Only in New Orleans. Traditional jazz by local musicians as well as visiting European bands is featured nightly. www.fritzelsjazz.net. 733 Bourbon St., 504.586.4800. Map 3, H4 GASA GASA Live music, local art exhibitions, film

screenings and recording sessions are all on tap at this quirky Uptown music venue. A rotating cast of food trucks are available. www.gasagasa.com. 4920 Freret St., 504.338.3567. Map 1, D3 HIHO LOUNGE This legendary dive got a post-

Katrina makeover, complete with an expanded stage and new sound system. But thankfully the vibe remains as funky and friendly as ever.

Entertainment runs the gamut, from bluegrass to burlesque. www.hiholounge.net. 2239 St. Claude Ave., 504.945.4446. Map 3, K4 HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of this

national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. www.hob.com. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5 HOWLIN’ WOLF This locally owned and operated

club features low cover charges and low attitude.

Acts include both local favorites and big names; the music ranges from punk to straight-ahead rock. www.thehowlinwolf.com. 907 S. Peters St., 504.529.5844. Map 3, C7 THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSEThis stylish spot inside the

Royal Sonesta New Orleans recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. The club features performances by a rotating roster of toptier local talent, nightly at 8 pm. Retro burlesque Fridays at 11 pm. No reservations required; $20 preferred seating. www.sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map , F4 LE BON TEMPS ROULÉ A great Uptown hangout,

featuring imported beers and casual dining (free oysters on Fridays, in season). Live music is performed on the stage they call the “House of Dues.”

4801 Magazine St., 504.897.3448. Map 1, D4 LITTLE GEM SALOON This long-neglected jazz

landmark has received a new lease on life, and is once again a player on the city’s live-music scene.

The recently renovated supper club offers two stages and performances most nights of the week. www.littlegemsaloon.com. 445 S. Rampart St., 504.267.4863. Map 3, C3 MAISON This Frenchmen Street club offers a

full-service restaurant, two floors, three bars, an interior wraparound balcony and nightly live entertainment, ranging from jazz to R&B to hip-hop. www.maisonfrenchmen.com. 508 Frenchmen St., 504.371.5543. Map 3, J5 MAPLE LEAF A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a

quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. www.mapleleafbar.com. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3 MUSIC BOX VILLAGE Make your own kind of music

at this whimsical wonderland, where ramshackle

huts double as instruments. The one-of-a-kind venue also hosts live performances. www.musicboxvillage.com. 4557 N. Rampart St.. Map 1, E3 ONE EYED JACKS Rockabilly, retro, rock, neo-

burlesque: this French Quarter swank-dive serves it all up in a vintage bordello atmosphere. www.oneeyedjacks.net. 615 Toulouse St., 504.569.8361. Map 3, G4 PALM COURT JAZZ CAFÉ This excellent venue

for traditional live jazz is a favorite of locals in the know and well-informed visitors. Creole dining is also featured. www.palmcourtjazzcafe.com. 1204 Decatur St., 504.525.0200. Map 3, I5 PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz

since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. www.preservationhall.com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4 REPUBLIC NEW ORLEANS One of downtown’s

hottest night spots. Bands, touring and local, share the stage with a late-night dance club. www.republicnola.com. 828 S. Peters St., 504.528.8282. Map 3, C6 ROCK ‘N’ BOWL A legendary local favorite now in

a new, larger location, Rock ’n’ Bowl still features the winning combination of bowling lanes and live music from the region’s top zydeco, R&B and rock acts. Check out swing night on Wednesdays.

Highly recommended, and worth the cab ride. www.rockandbowl.com. 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.861.1700. Map 1, D3 SNUG HARBOR An elegant, intimate mainstay of

Frenchmen Street’s music row, Snug Harbor was rated the city’s best jazz club by Esquire. Two sets nightly. www.snugjazz.com. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4 THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual,

laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following among locals and visitors alike. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) and continues way into the wee hours. www.spottedcatmusicclub. com. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5 STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Swing back to a bygone

era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. Dinner and brunch packages available. Call for current lineup. www.stagedoorcanteen.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6 THREE KEYSThis hip venue in the über-hip Ace

Hotel mixes things up with live performances by local music acts, swing dance lessons and guest speakers discussing New Orleans history and culture. www.threekeysnola.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map 1, D3 THREE MUSES This hip venue offers a veritable

nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5 TIPITINA’S The legendary Tip’s offers an eclectic,

always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. www.tipitinas.com. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4 VAUGHAN’S LOUNGE This tumbledown dive deep

in the Bywater neighborhood gets jam-packed during its legendary Thursday night jam sessions, now headlined by Corey Henry & the Treme Funktet. Well worth the price of a cab. 800 Lesseps St., 504.947.5562. Map 1, E3

THE GUIDE

Navigate Give It a Spin

General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street.

SAFETY Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you.

DRINKING It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plas- tic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can.

SMOKING Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars.

PUBLIC NUDITY Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency.

CALL OF NATURE Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.

Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE Airport Shuttle is the official

ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels.

Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart

There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID).

ALGIERS FERRY A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car.

Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie.

BUSES The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.

LOUIS ARMSTRONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT is currently undergoing a $917-million makeover, replete with a new 35-gate terminal, due to open in 2019.

58 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

©ST. TAMMANY PARISH TOURISM COMMISSION

With more than 100 miles of designated paths (including the Lafitte Greenway, which runs from the French Quarter to Mid-City), New Orleans ranks among the top cities in the U.S. for urban biking. More a nature lover than city cyclist? Grab a twowheel rental and explore the Tammany Trace just across Lake Pontchartrain, which spans 31 miles through five Northshore (p.

59) communities, connecting Covington, Abita Springs, Mandeville, Lacombe and Slidell. Recently inducted into the national Rail-Trail Hall of Fame, the paved hike and bike path follows the now-defunct Illinois Central Railroad corridor, winding through piney woods and marshy bayous. The Trace offers plenty of shade, 31 bridges, covered pavilions, restroom access and close encounters with local wildlife. For maps, suggested stops and bicycle rental info, visit tammanytrace.org.

N A V I G AT E

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was correct as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, prices, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 1, A1; Map 2, B5, etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

Index General Information........................................................................... 58 Nearby Destinations............................................................................59 Cajun Country...........................................................................................59 Jefferson Parish ..................................................................................... 59 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 59 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore................................................59 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................59 Neighborhoods .................................................................................... 59 Transportation ....................................................................................... 58

CENTRAL CITYThis once-bustling commercial

corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market and the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER The French Quarter, or

Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN Perhaps the grand-

est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW Ranch-style homes, one-story bunga-

TAXICABS Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,

particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater.

Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102).

WALKING The French Quarter and Central Busi-

ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.

Neighborhoods ALGIERS Located directly across the Mississippi

River from the French Quarter and accessible via a short ferry ride, this architecturally rich neighborhood is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Immaculately preserved Greek Revival, Italianate and Victorian homes impart the feel of a 19th-century small town. Map 3, H8 BYWATER A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian

shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters, a number of popular eateries and a growing art scene. The riverfront Crescent Park runs from Bywater to the French Quarter. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CBD The center

of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5

lows and other modern styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residential shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 LOWER 9TH WARD Nearly wiped off the map

by Hurricane Katrina, this resilient community continues to rebuild and repopulate. Highlights include actor Brad Pitt’s Make Right Foundation development and the House of Dance and Feathers. Map 1, F3 MARIGNY FAUBOURG MARIGNY Named one

of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MIDCITY Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the

banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND Originally incorporated in 1845 as

Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district.

Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ FAUBOURG TREMÉ The nation’s oldest

African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE DISTRICT This “Southern SoHo”

adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts.

Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK A drive across the Crescent City Con-

nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of

the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communities, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego.

English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4

Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY Despite what visitors often

think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory; tours are available of the factory, as well as of the adjoining Jungle Gardens and Bird City. www.lafayettetravel.com.

JEFFERSON PARISH Just over the parish line from

New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes.

Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net.

ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE Across Lake

Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com .

TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA Located about

an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time. www.houmatravel.com. 800.688.2732. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 59

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3

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3 2 1

THE GUIDE

Plantation Country Rethinking River Road In 1971 the newly formed River Road Historical Society set out to restore longneglected Destrehan Plantation, turning a crumbling eyesore into a shining example of civic pride, and jumpstarting a new era of reconstruction along the historic highway. Nearly a half century later, Destrehan is once again part of a River Road revival, joining other area plantations, such as Laura and Whitney, in embracing the once-unspoken subject of slavery. At one time counting more than 200 enslaved workers, Destrehan was the site of an 1811 tribunal to determine punishment in the largest slave revolt in American history. But it also served as a home colony for the Freeman’s Bureau, housing more than 700 newly freed slaves by 1866. Think there’s nothing new to learn in old plantation country? Think again.

DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from

New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under.

Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095.

EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek

Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation.

Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org.

4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837.

HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably “Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte”). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African folk Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $22 adults, $8 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $5 ages 6-12. Group rates available.

by Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are www.oakalleyplantation.org. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vachoffered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children erie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property.

Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org.

985.369.7151.

406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553.

NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De-

signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg.

12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home,

built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under.

Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-

RIVER ROAD, which follows the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, was home to more than 400 plantations prior to the Civil War; today only a handful remain.

66 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

©DESTREHAN PLANTATION

Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans

LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details.

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.

Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 66 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 66 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 67 Dining........................................................................................................... 68

franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756.

ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of architect

Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877.

The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $20 adults, $18 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com.

3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078.

WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the

public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com.

5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.

Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS Set among the ruins of

an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773.

BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION Still retained

by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast.

Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312.

COTTAGE PLANTATION One of the area’s most

complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The main house is composed of a series of connected w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 67

THE GUIDE

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings.

B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674.

GREENWOOD PLANTATION This 28-columned

Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475.

MYRTLES PLANTATION “One of America’s most

haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277.

NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White

Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAKLEY HOUSE In the early 1820s, naturalist John

James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739.

ROSEDOWN PLANTATION This circa-1834 home

features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332.

RURAL LIFE MUSEUM Located on the Burden

Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.

Dining THE CABIN The Cabin offers “meals typical of

the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in 68 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.

PLANTATION TOUR S

CAFÉ BURNSIDE Houmas House Plantation offers

casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings (seafood crepes, crawfishand-brie omelettes) is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

CAFÉ LAFOURCHE Turtle soup, alligator sauce

piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak.

L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451.

THE CARRIAGE HOUSE During the 1860s famed

New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ Located in a

former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921.

Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are offered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8236..

GRAPEVINE CAFÉ This combonation restaurant/art

gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463.

LATIL’S LANDING Old World elegance with innova-

tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

THE MANSION Nottoway’s in-house restaurant

offers sweeping views of the plantation’s amazing oaks and amazing eats by chef Daniel Thompson. Crab-and-brie bisque, smoked duck with Creole tomato grits, grouper with truffle-mashed potatoes, pecan-crusted rack of lamb: No need to head back to New Orleans anytime soon. B, L, D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT Exploring

Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite?

Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.

One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience.

Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans

FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095

or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org

THE GUIDE | MAPS

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MAPS These maps correspond to the listings sections of Where® magazine.

Check the coordinates at the end of each listing to find your destination.

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 1 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CR Clarion Inn & Suites, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 CI Country Inn & Suites, 315 Magazine St., 324-5400 D5 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 2 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 3 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 4 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 t S New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 in e NC a v 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 Sp hA AveNOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 NO c n i l o kOV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 n R a Fr St RH Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 6 OC Omni Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 7 Street Direction RS Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 French Quarter ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 Jazzy Passes WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 1 day - $3 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 3 day - $9 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 8 31 day - 55 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4 Ride RTA buses

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[WHERE INSIDE]

New Orleans Your Way

LGBTQ Travelers

Music Fans

Outdoors Lovers

Named for Marlon Brando’s character in “A Streetcar Named Desire,” (1) Stanley is located in the Pontalba Buildings, where the Stanley and Stella Shouting Contest takes place each March. Indulge in Eggs Stanley, then give your own shout-out to Tennessee Williams in front of 632 St. Peter Street, where he penned the play. Take a spin at the revolving (2) Carousel Bar in the Hotel Monteleone, where Liberace was the first to tickle the ivories and Truman Capote claimed to have been born. When the clubs clear out, the party continues at (3) Clover Grill.

Open 24/7, the hangover haven is beloved for its acerbic waiters, greasy burgers, all-day breakfasts and late-night floor shows starring Bourbon Street eccentrics.

In other cities public parks tend to be quiet, contemplative spaces. But around (1) Jackson Square, bawdy brass bands start sounding off well before noon. Sit in on a few sets then stroll nearby Royal Street, where you’ll find more buskers performing everything from swamp pop to opera. Don’t be deceived by (2) Skully’z Recordz’s Lilliputian size. Though barely big enough to spin around in, the shop is packed with new and used vinyl, hard-to-find imports and rare recordings. (3) Hard Rock Café has been rocking New Orleans since the late 1980s. The beer-bottle chandelier over the bar nods to its Bourbon Street location, while the memorabilia-adorned walls pay homage to the city’s musical heritage, as well as national notables.

Work in a history lesson on your morning run with (1) New Orleans Jogging Tours.

The educational, two-hour treks start in the French Quarter then wind through the Central Business District and into the Garden District.

From biking and boating to golf and tennis, picturesque (2) City Park offers an easy escape for outdoor enthusiasts. Bird-watchers will gravitate to the Couturie Forest, while fitness junkies will find their fix around the Big Lake. In recent years New Orleans has seen a boom in two-wheel vendors, with (3) Confederacy of Cruisers among of the most popular, offering guided rides as well as rentals. Want to get off the beaten path? The Lafitte Greenway bike/pedestrian trail extends from the French Quarter through Mid-City.

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(LEFT, FROM TOP) ©STANLEY; ©KERRI MCCAFFETY; ©SHAWN FINK; (CENTER, ALL IMAGES) ©SHAWN FINK; (RIGHT, FROM TOP) ©CHERYL GERBER; ©NEW ORLEANS CITY PARK; ©SHAWN FINK

UNIQUE TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS, FIT TO MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. FIND THE CITY CURATED FOR YOU AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/NEW-ORLEANS