Where Magazine New Orleans Aug 2019

T R AV E L E R S K N O W W H E R E â„¢

NEW ORLEANS AUG 2019

GET GOING

GLOBAL CUISINE

WHAT A WONDERFUL MONTH

On the Frenchmen Street beat

East African, Thai and tacos, tacos, tacos

Satchmo SummerFest and plein air art

Southern Decadence and bargain menus

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Taco Town

CONTENTS AUG

16

Move over, Creole and Cajun: New Orleans is experiencing a tortilla takeover.

2019

THE GUIDE Dining 25 Shopping 40 Attractions 46 Entertainment 50 Nightlife 51

Pops Music

19

The 19th annual Satchmo SummerFest celebrates all things Armstrong.

Cool To-Dos

20

Outdoor art strolls, swimming with (simulated) sharks and dozens of bargain menus to devour.

21 Around the world in four food stops.

ON THE

COVER



“Satchmo,” by Chris RobertsAntieau, on view at Antieau Gallery on Royal Street. ©ANTIEAU GALLERY

©DEL FUEGO; ©ZACK SMITH/FRENCH QUARTER FESTIVALS INC./©CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER; ©LORIN GAUDIN

ESSENTIALS Editor’s Note 8 Ask the Expert 12 Calendar 14 One Block 22 Maps 59 Where Next 62 Parting Shot 64

wheretraveler.com

6

A

ugust. In other cities, the word signals a beginning of the end; a slow, sad goodbye to shorts, sandals and all-too-brief summer fun.

But in New Orleans, the seasonal swelter is just coming to a boil, and will likely linger for months to come.

You can hole up in your hotel room and scurry from one air-conditioned venue to the next, or you can play like a local, give in and embrace the elements. There is an art to handling the heat and humidity. Take this month’s annual White/ Dirty Linen Night gallery strolls, Satchmo SummerFest and rowdy Red Dress Run—all of which celebrate the Crescent City’s cool quotient amid the great outdoors. Take it outside, and take it all in.

COOLinary bargain menus, Saints home games, Southern Decadence debauchery: Elsewhere summer may be waning, but here, fun in the sun is just heating up.

THE

EDITOR’S NOTE 2019

AUGUST

DOUG BRANTLEY Editor, WhereTraveler ® New Orleans @whereneworleans

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WhereTraveler® magazine is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, www.morrismedianetwork.com. Where magazine and the logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. Where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited.

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W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

AUGUST 2019



EXPERT TIP: Ask a concierge for an Arts District guide.

Canal Street and just a 10-minute walk to the Quarter. But since the streetcar is so accessible, I enjoy introducing our visitors to the Mid-City neighborhood. It gives them a chance to see a different side of New Orleans and to explore some of our many cemeteries, as well as beautiful Bayou St. John and City Park.

Q: AUGUST BRINGS COOLINARY BARGAIN MENUS. NAME THREE COOL RESTAURANTS TO TRY. A: The Pelican Club,

CONCIERGE AT THE JUNG HOTEL

Q: WHICH MUSEUMS DO YOU MOST OFTEN RECOMMEND? A: My favorites are the

Museum—and the New Orleans Museum of Art.

National WWII Museum, the Louisiana State Museums in Jackson Square—along with the Old U.S. Mint and the Jazz

Q: THE SAINTS’ PRESEASON KICKS OFF THIS MONTH. WHERE WOULD YOU SEND FANS FOR PRE-GAME PARTYING? A: There’s no better

Q: SATCHMO FEST OR THE RED DRESS RUN; WHERE ARE WE LIKELY TO FIND YOU? A: Even though the

Red Dress Run is for a wonderful cause, I’m a jazz lover, and nothing speaks jazz more than the Satchmo SummerFest.

Q: SUGGEST A SPOT FOR RED BEANS AND RICE, LOUIS ARMSTRONG’S FAVORITE DISH. A: The historic Dooky

Chase restaurant.



GW Fins and Restaurant R’evolution.

CLAUDETTE BREVE

I’m a jazz lover, and nothing speaks jazz more than the Satchmo SummerFest.

place than Champions Square. Also Drew Brees’ Walk-On’s or, for someone like me who likes a nice pre-game glass of wine, Copper Vine next door.

And, of course, the Jung lobby bar, which is just a stone’s throw from the Superdome.

©DOUG BRANTLEY

Q: THE JUNG IS OFF THE BEATEN FRENCH QUARTER PATH. SUGGEST ANOTHER AREA OF THE CITY VISITORS SHOULD SEEK OUT. A: Our hotel is on upper

12

W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

AUGUST 2019

brunch

you had me@

breakfast burrito -tamale con huevos-pupusa benny breakfast burrito -tamale con huevos-pupusa benny cheat day churros steak & eggshuevos rancheros cheat day churros steak & eggshuevos rancheros rum french toast drink specials mangosamimosa rum french toast drink specials mangosamimosa bloody bloody mary mary -- live live music music -- patio patio dining dining -- margaritas margaritas

every sunday 10:30am 3:oopm every sunday 10:30am - 3:oopm 437 Esplanade Ave - nolacantina.com 437 Esplanade Ave - nolacantina.com

W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M / N E W- O R L E A N S / L O C A L - E V E N T S

THE

CALENDAR

SOUTHERN DECADENCE AUGUST 29-SEPTEMBER 2

RED DRESS RUN

7 GREAT THINGS THIS MONTH Tipitina’s Free Fridays August 2, 9, 16, 23 & 30 The free summertime performance series closes out with Naughty Professor (Aug. 2), Corey Henry & the

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W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

SOUTHERN DECADENCE

Treme Funktet (Aug. 9), t he Low End Theory Players (Aug. 16), Big Sam’s Funky Nation (Aug. 23) and Cowboy Mouth (Aug. 30). www.tipitinas.com “Down By Law” August 8 The New Orleans Film Society screens director Jim Jarmusch’s locally shot, 1986 indie classic at the Orpheum Theater.

Admission is free. www.orpheumnola.com New Orleans Saints August 9 & 29 The Black and Gold gear up for another Super Bowl run with preseason matchups against the Minnesota

Vikings (Aug. 9) and the Miami Dolphins (Aug. 29) at the Mercedes-Benz Superdome. www.mbsuperdome.com Red Dress Run August 10 The “drinking club with a running problem” takes to the streets, dressed in its scarlet-hued best.

The ridiculousness kicks off at 11 am from Crescent Park and continues way into the wee hours. www.nolareddress.com Queen & Adam Lambert August 20 The late, great Freddie Mercury’s music lives on, embodied by the former

“American Idol” contestant, at the Smoothie King Center. www.smoothie kingcenter.com The B-52s August 25 Three decades ago they were “headin’ down the Atlanta highway;” now they’re pulling into the Saenger Theatre on their 40th anniversary tour. www.saengernola.com Backstreet Boys August 30 The best-selling boy band of all time (more than a million records worldwide) plays the Smoothie King Center. www.smoothie kingcenter.com

AUGUST 2019

(LEFT) ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM; (RIGHT) ©ZACK SMITH/NEWORLEANS.COM

THE LINEUP

The nonstop parties, the flesh-filled streets, the eyebrow-raising outfits: For close to a half-century, Southern Decadence revelers have been flocking to the French Quarter over Labor Day weekend for the largest gay gathering in the South. The five-day affair, which drew 300,000 attendees last year, culminates with an outlandish foot parade that begins at the Golden Lantern bar (1230 Royal St.) Sept.

2 at 2 pm. Think you’ve seen it all? Think again. www.southerndecadence.net



WHAT’S HAPPENING

Experience Gretna’s charm and rich history as you stroll through one of Louisiana’s largest national historic districts. From its landmarks to the good food, friendly faces and exciting seasonal activities, you will find Gretna a delight for all ages.

1035 Huey P. Long, P.O. Box 404, Gretna, LA 70054 Call: 504-363-1580 or 888-4-GRETNA | Fax: 504-875-2234 | www. gretnala.com

NEW ORLEANS

WHERE NOW

W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

NOLÉ

Where Now

Taco Town

Mexican on the Mississippi

By Lorin Gaudin

S

TACEAUX LOCEAUX

with cilantro, diced white onions and squeezes of fresh, tiny Mexican limes. Eaten standing at a foldout counter extended from the side of the truck, or gathered with friends and strangers at nearby card tables, locals (and a lot of restaurant chefs) inhaled the “new” food, sharing squirt bottles of various hot and tangy sauces, exchanging info about “best” trucks and tacos across town.

New Orleans’ Mexican food craving has some history. Juan’s Flying Burrito (p. 34) has been holding court with its unique style of Mexican fare since 1997. Taceaux Loceaux (p.

40)—known for its list of “taceauxs” with names like “Jane Deaux” (vegetarian), “Messin with Texas” (brisket) and “Seoul Man” (bulgogi chicken)— hit the streets with its brightly painted (still-operating) van in 2009. In late



(TOP) ©TACEAUX LOCEAUX; (BOTTOM AND OPENING PAGE) ©NOLÉ

hell shocked. That’s the best way to describe New Orleans’ current dining scene. In the past few months, four taquerias have opened—restaurants singularly dedicated to Latin-inspired food and flavors, with tacos as a focal point.

It’s fascinating, but it’s not the first time New Orleans has had a Latin food revolution.

Soon after Hurricane Katrina, taco trucks were everywhere, arriving along with the influx of Latin migrant workers helping to rebuild the city.

New Orleanians took to the simple, flavorful and diverse meat-cuts tucked into warm, handmade tortillas topped

NOLÉ

17

LEFT, NOLA CANTINA; RIGHT, BARRACUDA

interesting twists on classics like a melty, sweet and spicy queso fundido, pairing honey, cheese and heat. The taco list isn’t particularly big, but it’s focused, using local fish, seafood (tempura-battered shrimp with celery root remoulade), charred steak and oyster mushrooms as fillings.

Also recently opened, Nolé (www. nolerestaurant.com) is all about the

New Orleans-South America food connection. Owner Al Copeland Jr. and consulting chef Chris Lusk partnered to create a menu that explores Latin flavors in a Cajun-Creole context. All the usual suspects— guacamole, salsas, quesadillas—are on the menu, but with local flare.

Tapping into the New Orleans vibe, taco offerings include cornmeal-crusted oysters with pickled okra, smoked brisket with mirliton, pecan-smoked pork and beer-battered Gulf fish with lime Creole cream cheese.

Brett Jones runs Barracuda (www.eatbrracuda.com), a straightup taqueria with a small building to house the kitchen and a casual, outdoor dining space. The four-category menu lists Chips and Dips, Tacos, Bowls and Sides. Tortillas are house-made, and breakfast tacos are offered before 11 am. Simple, fresh and inexpensive are Barracuda’s calling cards.

Nola Cantina’s (p. 35) modern take on street tacos is the polar opposite: 10 different tacos with some serious surprises (a Patrón XO Cafe & Cherry Coffee ice cream Choceaux-Taceaux, anyone?) and a lot of diversity. The Cochinita Pibil is decidedly Cuban-inspired, with sour orange-braised pork and fried sweet plantains.

New Orleans has come out of her regional cuisine shell with a boom of Latin-inspired restaurants that have us all taco loco.

ABOVE, OTRA VEZ; BELOW, DEL FUEGO

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AUGUST 2019



May, it opened an Uptown restaurant.

The menu is an expanded version of the truck’s, with 18 tacos to go along with apps, salads and quesadillas.

Bringing food and vibe closer to the border, Shannon and David Wright opened Del Fuego (p. 38) a few years ago on Magazine Street. The two took frequent “learning” trips to Mexico, plus Dave’s a Baja, California native, so their Cal-Mex cuisine is right on. Del Fuego’s tacos (the fried fish with slaw is a standout) come plated on fresh corn tortillas made on site. This was the first local restaurant to “roll their own” (tortillas, that is) with a fancy machine.

Otra Vez (p. 26), owned and operated by new-to-town chef Akhtar Nawab (of Brooklyn’s Alta Calidad fame), is a pretty, modern space in the bourgeoning South Market District. The menu reads like Mexico City meets the modern southern U.S., with

(TOP LEFT) ©NOLA CANTINA; (TOP RIGHT) ©BARRACUDA; (CENTER) ©LIZ CLAYMAN/OTRA VEZ; (BOTTOM) ©DEL FUEGO; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©ZACK SMITH/FRENCH QUARTER FESTIVALS INC.

Where Now

Pops Music

Louis “Satchmo” Armstrong may have died in 1971 in his adopted home of Queens, NY, but fans from around the globe still gather in the city of his birth each August to trumpet the beloved jazzman’s lasting musical legacy. Join in the celebration Aug. 2-4 at the Old U.S. Mint, where you’ll find dozens of modern-day jazz musicians sharing two stages during the 19th annual Satchmo SummerFest. For a full lineup of performers and related events, visit WWW.SATCHMOSUMMERFEST.ORG.

Cool To-Dos

and bars provide edible art. The arty party continues afterward at the Contemporary Arts Center. Sullied your suit? No worries.

The following week (Aug. 10), Royal Street galleries throw open their doors for Dirty Linen Night. www.cacwhitelinennight. com; www.dirtylinen.org

Escape Extinction: Sharks In early June, the Audubon Aquarium launched this kid-friendly take on the

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W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

growing escape-room craze. Groups set off on a simulated submarine, diving deep into shark-conservation issues via interactive games and puzzles, along the way.

Fun and informative, the hour-long adventure is an offshoot of the award-winning Escape My Room. www.escapeextinction.com

COOLinary Menus Never eaten at Antoine’s or Brennan’s (shown above right)? August offers an ideal opportunity, with the legendary eateries joining dozens of other fine dining venues for COOLinary New Orleans Restaurant Month. Now in its 15th year, the citywide chow down caters to budget-minded diners with multicourse, prix-fixe brunch, lunch and dinner specials. www.cool inaryneworleans.com

AUGUST 2019



“Never eaten White/Dirty Linen Night Arts District goes monochromatic at Antoine’s The Aug. 3, with art lovers dressed in their or Brennan’s? breezy best creating a roving street scene the 25th annual Hancock Whitney August offers during White Linen Night. From 5:30 to 9:30 pm, an ideal galleries between the 300 and 700 blocks of Julia Street mount new exhibits, while opportunity.” live bands perform and local restaurants

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER; ©CHRIS GRANGER/BRENNAN’S; ©CHRIS GRANGER/BRENNAN’S; ©AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE

Quick—summer’s clock is ticking; the end is near! Get out and get going.

Where Now

INTERNATIONAL NOSHING N

ew Orleans is renown for its blend of Caribbean, African, French, German and Spanish cuisines.

But outside the usual confines, there are a lot of hidden gems for dishes of other cultures. Time to let everyone in on the secret(s). LORIN GAUDIN

SWITI LOBI

Hailing from the Midwest, chef Adham Kader brings his version of Mediterranean food. Get the madeto-order falafel wrapped in the house-made bread (saj) griddled before your eyes and filled with chopped raw and pickled veg. The shawarmas (chicken and beef) are gently spiced, bolstered by condiments. Life changing. 2733 Baronne St. (inside the Red Zone), 504.891.1385

SECRET THAI A short drive to Chalmette delivers outstanding Thai food. There are noodles, rice and curries, but there’s also Thai beef jerky, Pad

Gang Daeng (fried catfish, eggplant and chili paste) and the best shrimp tom kha soup ever. Go with a group, order broadly and plan to stay a while.

9212 W. Judge Perez Dr., 504.345.2487

ADDIS NOLA Destination dining for East African food in New Orleans? Yes. The spongy injera flatbread is perfect for tearing and pinching bits of doro wat (chicken), spicy stewed lentils, vegetables and mitmita-dusted kitfo (raw or cooked beef) with fresh cottage cheese. This is a wonderful eat-withyour-hands experience. 422 S. Broad St., 504.370.1182



(ALL IMAGES) ©LORIN GAUDIN

A quick bike trip from City Park, this convenience store surprises with Surinamese “po’boys” and platters of gently or sharply spiced chicken masala and pickled vegetables. 1233 N. Broad St. (inside Birdies Convenience Store)

GITA PITA

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: ADDIS NOLA, SECRET THAI AND GITA PITA

21

F O R M O R E T H I N G S T O D O 0 N F R E N C H M E N S T R E E T, V I S I T W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

ONE BLOCK FIND THE BEST ON

FRENCHMEN STREET BETWEEN ESPLANADE AND ROYAL

D.B.A., THE ART GARDEN, NOLA CANTINA AND DOWNTOWN GALLERY

SEE

PLAY

EAT

SHOP

Quiet during the day, Frenchmen Street makes big noise at night, when its many music clubs come alive. Stroll around the after-dark Art Garden, a plein-air gallery that goes until midnight, then check out the artful tattoo designs at Electric Ladyland.

You’ll likely stumble upon a great brass band or street poet along the way.

Move your groove from one great club to the next.

Dig into gourmet wieners at Dat Dog or modern Mexican at NOLA Cantina. Café Rose Nicaud caters to the morning crowd, while the Royal Frenchmen Bar serves lite bites starting at noon.

Rummage the racks at the Louisiana Music Factory, while listening to live, local bands perform on Saturday afternoons. Bookish types gravitate to Frenchmen Art & Books; hipsters hang at the kitschy-cool Downtown Gallery.

 Apple Barrel 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399

 Blue Nile 532 Frenchmen St., 504.766.6193, www.bluenilelive.com

 d.b.a.

 Dat Dog

618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731, www.dbaneworleans.com

601 Frenchmen St., 504.309.3362, www.datdognola.com

 Snug Harbor

 NOLA Cantina

 Louisiana Music Factory

626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696, www.snugjazz.com

405 Frenchmen St., 504.266.2848, www.nolacantina.com

421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094, www.louisianamusicfactory.com

 The Art Garden

 The Spotted Cat

 Café Rose Nicaud

613 Frenchmen St., 504.912.6668, www.artgardennola.com

623 Frenchmen St., www.spottedcatmusicclub.com

632 Frenchmen St., 504.949.3300, www.caferosenicaud.com

 Frenchmen Art & Books

 Electric Ladyland

 Three Muses

 Royal Frenchmen Bar

610 Frenchmen St., 504.947.8286, www.electricladylandtatoo.com

536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801, www.3musesnola.com

700 Royal St., 504.619.9660, www.royalfrenchmen.com

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W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

600 Frenchmen St., 504.302.1772, www.frenchmenartandbooks.com

 Downtown Gallery 503 Frenchmen St., 504.266.2211

AUGUST 2019



FROM TOP:

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) ©ZACK SMITH/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©THE ART GARDEN; ©NOLA CANTINA; ©DOWNTOWN GALLERY

CLOCKWISE

THE

GUIDE OUR

CLAWS AND EFFECT

Chilled crab claws marinated in truffle vinaigarette with black truffle shavings, the perfect pairing for French 75 cocktails at Tableau (p. 33).

FAVORITES

LOOK FOR our featured advertisers throughout the Guide.



©RANDY P. SCHMIDT/TABLEAU

Dining

DINING Central Business/ Warehouse District THE AMERICAN SECTOR American A nostalgic homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as Victory Garden salads and Frito pie. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6; www.ww2eats.com ANNUNCIATION Southern Contemporary takes on traditional Southern and Creole fare is the draw here.

Country-fried sweetbreads with cheddar grits, crab-topped grilled pompano, banana pudding crème brulee—yes, yes and yes, please. D (Th-M). 1016 Annunciation St., 504.568.0245.

Map 3, B7; www.annunciation restaurant.com

BORGNE Seafood At this seafood-centric space, fantastic apps (such as duck-and-jalapeno poppers) partner swimmingly with easygoing sandwiches, fish cooked “in a bag” and more. L, D (daily)..

601 Loyola Ave., 504.613.3860.

Map 3, C3; www.borgnerestaurant.com CAFÉ CARMO International This island-inspired space pops out some wild—and wildly delicious— dishes, such as the zany Rico sandwich (a grilled plantain patty topped with pulled pork) and shrimp-filled, black-eyed pea fritters. Veggie and vegan options are also featured. B, L (M-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). 527 Julia St., 504.875.4132. Map 3, C6; www.cafecarmo.com

25

THE GUIDE

AUCTION HOUSE MARKET Eclectic This bright, modern food hall offers a variety of vendors and flavors, from fresh local seafood to Indian, Egyptian and Hawaiianinspired cuisines. B, L, D (daily).

801 Magazine St., 504.372.4321.

Map 3, C6; www.auctionhousemarket.com

CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks Forget the standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats.

D (nightly). 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5; www.chophousenola.com COCHON Louisiana Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. L, D (daily).

930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; www.cochonrestaurant.com

D IN IN G

COMPANY BURGER American Adam Biderman’s award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320.

Map 1, D3; www.thecompany burger.com COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean A native of St. Lucia, chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes with pineapple tartar sauce and curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi. L, (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6; www.comperelapin.com COPPER VINE American Along with 30 varietals on tap and an additional 20 by the glass, this easygoing “wine pub” serves up caviar-topped oysters, a wide variety of flatbreads and heartier fare, such as skirt steak with duck fat fries. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1001 Poydras St., 504.208.9535. Map 3, C4. www.coppervinewine.com COUVANT French A slick, contemporary French bistro inside the Eliza Jane hotel. Standouts include English peas with duck egg and lardons, hanger steak Bordelaise and moules frites.

B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). 315

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W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

Magazine St., 504.324.5400.

Map 3, D5; www.couvant.com THE DAILY BEET Vegetarian Light, healthy eats and cold-pressed juices are the draw at this industrial-chic café. Tuck into a shaved Brussels sprouts salad or an Orbit Bowl of warm wild rice, avocado, runny egg, kimchi and pickled veg. B, L, D (daily).

1000 Girod St., 504.605.4413.

Map 3, B4; www.thedailybeet nola.com DOMENICA Italian Out-of-the-norm antipasta (roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as lasagne Bolonese. Mangia, mangia!

L, D (daily). 123 Baronne St., 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3; www.domenicarestaurant.com EMERIL’S Louisiana Emeril Lagasse’s flagship sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum and more. L (M-F), D (nightly). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; www.emerils.com ESPIRITU Mexican Mezcal and Mexican food is the get at this tuckedaway spot. Start with creamy guacamole topped with dried grasshoppers; end with shots of smoky mescal and cinnamon-sugar-dusted churros. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 520 Capdeville St., 504.267.4975. Map 3, C5; www.espiritunola.com GIANNA Italian James Beard Awardwinning chef Rebecca Wilcomb pays tribute to her grandmother with homey fare, such as creamy polenta with lamb-sausage gravy, tortellini in bordo and veal saltimbocca.

700 Magazine St, 504.399.0816.

Map 3, C6; www.gianna restaurant.com GRAND ISLE Seafood This comfy seafood house boasts such standouts as shrimp and grits, crispy calamari and other Southern

favorites. Grab a seat at the oyster bar for shrimp by the pound and cold beer served from taps encased in ice. L, D (daily).

575 Convention Center Blvd., 504.520.8530. Map 3, D6 ; www.grandislerestaurant.com GRILL ROOM Contemporary The fine dining room at the Windsor Court Hotel is a favorite of both locals and visitors. Refined yet relaxed, the Grill Room features innovative American cuisine that’s strong on Southern influences and local ingredients. B, D (daily), L (M-F); jazz Br (Sa-Su). 300 Gravier St., 504.522.1994. Map 3, D6: www.windsorcourthotel.com HERBSAINT French One of the city’s premier fine dining spots. The award-winning menu changes fequently, with entrées such as confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114.

Map 3, C5; www.herbsaint.com JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican Squash blossom tacos, pig ear chilaquiles, octopus toastadas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare.

Celebrity chef Aarón Sánchez’s hot spot puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. L, D (daily). 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4; www.johnnysanchez restaurant.com JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian At this casual Ace Hotel eatery snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy, and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. B (M-F); L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5; www.josephineestelle.com LÜKE International A throwback to Old World New Orleans brasseries. German specialties, such as pork schnitzel, meld with classic French bistro fare and fresh Louisiana seafood. B, L, D (daily). 333 St. Charles Ave. (in the Hilton St. Charles hotel), 504.378.2840. Map 3, D4 ; www.lukeneworleans.com

MAYPOP Vietnamese Asian-fusion food in a bright, open space. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345.Map 3, B4 ; www.maypop restaurant.com MERIL International Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef ’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. L, D (daily).

424 Girod St., 504.526.3745.

Map 3, C6; www.emerils.com MOTHER’S American A true New Orleans classic. Po’ boys with “debris,” shrimp etouffeé, gumbo, jambalaya, pecan pie, breakfast biscuits: Mother’s has every kind of comfort food, all done just right.

B, L (daily). 401 Poydras St., 504.523.9656. Map 3, D6 ; www. mothers restaurant.net OTRA VEZ Mexican Modern Mexican is the focus at this Southern offshoot of Brooklyn’s Alta Calidad. Yuca tater tots, fried tempura shrimp tacos, crawfish chile rellenos—si! L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1001 Julia St., 504.354.8194. Map 3, B4; www.otraveznola.com PÊCHE Seafood The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better.

From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong.

L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; www.pecherestaurant.com RED GRAVY Italian This cozy brunch bistro offers traditional Italian dishes and not-so-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Open W-M. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5; www. redgravycafe.com

AUGUST 2019

RESTAURANT AUGUST French Fine dining at its finest.

The surroundings are elegant, and the food is spectacular, combining European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. L (MF), D (nightly); Su brunch. 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777.

Map 3, E5; www.restaurant august.com RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE Steaks Founded in 1965, this Crescent City classic, famed for its superb, sizzling steaks and seafood, now has locations around the world. L, D (daily).

525 Fulton St., 504.587.7099.

Map 3, D6; www.ruthschris.com

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SEAWORTHY Seafood This offshoot of New York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, East and West coasts and other sustainably sourced seafood.

D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071.

Map 3, C5; www.seaworthy nola.com ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY Deli The St. James is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-the-line delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. L (MSa), D (Th-Sa); Br (Su). 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485.

Map 3, C6; 5004 Prytania St., 504.899.4737. Map 1, D4; www.stjamescheese.com TSUNAMI Sushi At this sprawling sushi emporium the usual sushi suspects sit menu-side with funky items like calamari “fries.” Big appetites will want to hit the Sumo Ribeye. L, D (M-Sa). 601 Poydras St., 504.608.3474.

Map 3, C5; www.serving sushi.com WILLA JEAN BAKERY Contemporary Pastry chef Kelly Fields, known for her beautiful baked goods, shows off her savory side as well in dishes such as braised lamb pasta with mint pesto. B, L (M-

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Enjoy an afternoon drink on our courtyard 510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

Fair winds and following seas.

Wild-caught oysters and fresh seafood fare.

Ace Hotel New Orleans 630 Carondelet St @seaworthynola

AUGUST 2019

Dining

F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334.

Map 3, B4; www.willajean.com

Central City CENTRAL CITY BBQ Barbecue Stellar barbecue and kicked-up sides make this sprawling smokehouse a popular destination. L, D (daily). 1201 S. Rampart St., 504.558.4276. Map 1, D3; www.centralcitybbq.com MAÎS AREPAS Latin An upscale CreoleColombian restaurant that puts overstuffed, filled corn pockets (arepas) front and center. L (TuSa), D (Tu-Su). 1200 Carondelet St., 504.523.6247. Map 3, A5

French Quarter

1016 Annunciation Street New Orleans, LA 504-568-0245 • www.annunciationrestaurant.com

  sdf For special event inquiries email ksparks.annunciation@gmail.com Check out our exclusive August Coolinary Menu at CoolinaryNewOrleans.com Mention WhereTraveler® for a complimentary glass of house wine with entree purchase.

ACME OYSTER HOUSE Seafood For locals, the name Acme is synonymous with raw oysters. Since 1910, Acme’s signature marble-topped bar has served up countless bivalves on the half shell. Other regional specialties include fried oyster po’boys, gumbo Poopa and jambalaya. L, D (daily). 724 Iberville St., 504.522.5973. www.acmeoyster.com Map 3, E4; 8 Canal St. (inside Harrah’s Casino), 504.708.2409. Map 3, E6; www.acmeoyster.com ANTOINE’S Creole Established in 1840, Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure with rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4; www.antoines.com

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TOUPS SOUTH Southern Chef Isaac Toups creates museum-quality cuisine at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery. Biscuits with crab fat butter, goat tamales and fried black-eyed pea salad offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. L, D (M, W-Sa); Br (Su).

1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3; www.toupssouth.com

ARNAUD’S Creole In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of the many famous dishes. D (daily); jazz brunch (Su).

813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433.

Map 3, F4; www.arnauds.com BAYONA American Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3; www.bayona.com

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BOURBON HOUSE Seafood A standout addition to Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes share menu space with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp.

B, L, D (daily). 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4; www.bourbonhouse.com BRENNAN’S Creole The legendary establishment continues more than seven decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4; www.brennansneworleans.com BROUSSARD’S Creole Broussard’s, established in 1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots. The kitchen turns out long-popular classics, such as turtle soup and bronzed redfish with lump crab and mirliton slaw. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4; www.broussards.com CAFÉ AMELIE Louisiana The perfect spot for a leisurely outdoor lunch or romantic dinner. Try the satsuma and pepper-glazed shrimp or a seasonal cocktail. L, D (WSu); Br (Sa-Su). 912 Royal St., 504.412.8965. Map 3, H4; www.cafeamelie.com

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CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun classics.

B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530.

Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554. Map 3, G5; www.cafebeignet.com CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a must-do.

On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. Open 24h (daily). 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; www.cafedumonde.com CANE & TABLE Cuban This rum-centric restaurant provides a taste of the city’s Caribbean connection.

Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5; www.caneandtablenola.com CENTRAL GROCERY Deli This Italian deli-grocery is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. L (daily). 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5; www.centralgrocery.com CLOVER GRILL American The prospect of big juicy burgers, overstuffed omelets and a cheeky version of retro 1950s ambiance draws all walks of life to this Bourbon Street institution at all hours.

The theatrics on both sides of the counter are often worthy of a Fellini film. Open 24h (daily).

900 Bourbon St., 504.598.1010.

Map 3, H4 ; www.clovergrill.com COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu of Creole and Cajun cuisine. Br, D (daily). 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4; www.courtoftwosisters.com

CROISSANT D’OR PATISSERIE Bakery This venerable pastry shop produces a stunning array of buttery croissants, fresh fruit danishes and any number of dreamy creations devised from storehouses of chocolate, cream and magic. Savory dishes are also available, along with a variety of coffees. B, L (W-M).

617 Ursuline Ave., 504.524.4663.

Map 3, H4 CURIO American Curious what “American cuisine with Creole soul” tastes like? Think grit tots with roasted red pepper coulis, black-eyed pea-and-duck gumbo and “pastrami shrimp” Reubens. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 301 Royal St., 504.717.4198. Map 3, F4; www.curionola.com DEANIE’S Seafood For years locals have driven to the lakefront Deanie’s for groaning boards of freshly fried seafood and grilled fish. Its French Quarter location offers the same great menu in posher surroundings. L, D (daily).

841 Iberville St., 504.581.1316.

Map 3, E4; L, D (Tu-Su) 1713 Lake Ave., Metairie, 504.831.4141.

Map 1, C2; www.deanies.com DIAN XIN Chinese Dim sum craving?

Satisfy it here. Steamed pork dumplings, crab-and-crawfish bao, salt-and-pepper squid; the menu goes on and on. L (Su), D (Tu-Su). 504.266.2828. Map 3, I4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks An upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces—try the barbecued rib-eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters.

D (nightly). 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4; www.dickiebrennanssteak house.com DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks A stunning steakhouse and butcher shop with superior quality dry-aged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. L (F), D (nightly). 620 Chartres St.,

504.267.3500. Map 3, G4; www.dorismetropolitan.com EAT American Giving stylish meaning to the neighborhood corner restaurant, retro-chic Eat is ideal for brunch or a sunset supper. The layered blue cheese-fig torte is a must-order. D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 900 Dumaine St., 504.522.7222. Map 3, H3 ; www. eatnola.com EL GATO NEGRO Mexican Some the most authentic south-of-the-border fare in the city. The ingredients are fresh, the tortillas are made to order and the hand-squeezed maragaritas made with orange, tangerine and lime are a must.

L, D (daily). 81 French Market Place, 504.525.9752. www. elgatonegronola.com Map 3, I5; 800 S. Peters St., 504.309.8864.

Map 3, C7; www.elgatonegro nola.com FRENCH TOAST Breakfast Breakfast is the focus of this popular French Quarter spot. There are sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta). B, L (daily).

1035 Decatur St., 504.300.5518.

Map 3, H5; www.toastneworleans.com FRENCH TRUCK COFFEE Coffee Named for the vintage Citroën vehicles it uses for deliveries to local restaurants and grocers, French Truck established a loyal following as the city’s first micro-roaster. Fine coffees and killer cold brews dominate at its cool cafés.

Open daily. 221 Chartres St., 504.298.1115. Map 3, F4; 1200 Magazine St., 504.298.1115.

Map 3, A7; www.french truckcoffee.com GALATOIRE’S Creole Since 1905, Galatoire’s has been a gravity center of New Orleans. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. L, D (Tu-Su).

209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021.

Map 3, E4; www.galatoires.com

AUGUST 2019

Elegant Northern Italian Cuisine in a Quaint French Quarter Setting

430 Barracks Street (near the Historic French Market)

www.italianbarrel.com Reservations: 504.569.0198 | Catering or Private Parties: 504.982.6969 Open: Sunday - �ursday 11am - 10pm; Friday - Saturday 11am - 11pm Italian Breakfast: Monday - Friday 8am -11am; Saturday & Sunday 9am - 12pm

GRILL ROOM Contemporary The fine dining room at the Windsor Court Hotel is a favorite of both locals and visitors. Refined yet relaxed, the Grill Room features innovative American cuisine that’s strong on Southern influences and local ingredients. B, D (daily), L (M-F); jazz Br (Sa-Su). 300 Gravier St., 504.522.1994. Map 3, D6; www.windsorcourthotel.com GW FINS Seafood Chef Tenney Flynn has taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared.

D (nightly). 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4; www.gwfins.com HARD ROCK CAFÉ American This popular chain, filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings.

L, D (daily). 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4; www. hardrock cafe.com

Contemporary Coastal Cuisine 701 S. Peters St. 504-302-7496 www.briquette-nola.com Now Serving Lunch Book reservations through Open Table.

IRENE’S CUISINE Italian Irene’s is all about garlic, olive oil and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. Think of the long wait (no reservations) as part of the charm. D (M-Sa).

529 Bienville St., 504.529.8811.

Map 3, F5; www.irenesnola.com ITALIAN BARREL Italian The focus here is on fine, Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as

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THE GUIDE

Reservations Recommended

Dining

GREEN GODDESS Eclectic Chef Paul Artigues creates adventurous dishes in the tiny kitchen of this intimate gem. Possibly the only place in town you’ll find Manchegotruffle grits sharing menu space with grilled lemongrass tofu po’boys. L, D (W-Su). 307 Exchange Place, 504.301.3347.

Map 3, E4; www.greengoddess restaurant.com

veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso buco-topped polenta and top-notch tiramisu.

L, D (daily). 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5; www.theitalianbarrel.com JEWEL OF THE SOUTH Contemporary This aptly named gem takes its cue from a 19th-century restaurant of the same name, with retro cocktails (brandy crustas, Roffigacs) and an ever-changing, seasonal menu of late-night bites. D (nightly). 1026 St. Louis St., 504.265.8816. Map 3, F3; www.jewelnola.com JUSTINE French Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is both classic and contemporary in design, but the menu is fullon French: steak tartar, tuna Niçoise salad, moules frites. L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su).

225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533.

Map 3, E4; www.justinenola.com

D IN IN G

K-PAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana Chef-personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience.

His restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, such as bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders.

D (M-Sa). 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530.Map 3, F4; www.kpauls.com KILLER POBOYS Contemporary This tiny holein-the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw. B, L, D (W-M).

219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731.

Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745.Map 3, F4; www.killerpoboys.com KRYSTAL American Since 1932 Krystal has been satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers. 24h (daily). 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4; www. krystal.com LATITUDE 29 Eclectic World-renowned tiki guru Jeff “Beachbum” Berry’s seriously cool, new-school tiki

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bar and restaurant recalls the spirit of Trader Vic’s. Classic tiki cocktails and original concoctions are paired with “PolynAsian” fare, such as sticky ribs. L (F-Sa), D (daily).

321 N. Peters St., 504.609.3811.

Map 3, F5; www.latitude29 nola.com LONGWAY TAVERN Eclectic A proper gastropub with a comfy chic interior, solid familiar cocktails and smart, sexy food. The pork belly home fries, fried calamari and hefty steak sandwiches will make you linger. L (F-Su), D (nightly).

719 Toulouse St., 504.962.9696.

Map 3, G4; www.longway tavern.com MANOLITO Cuban A taste of Cuba in the heart of the French Quarter.

Pressed Cuban sandwiches, tender ropa vieja and shrimp ceviche are top food picks.

Pair with a martini, thrown Spanish-Cuban style. L (W-Su); D (nightly). 508 Dumaine St., 504.603.2740. Map 3, H4; www.manolitonola.com MEAUXBAR French French bistro standards tweaked with a thoughtful, modern hand. Dishes include escargot with shiitakes in brandy cream and mussels nestled in a harrisa broth, crowned with crisp hand-cut fries. D (nightly); Br (Su). 942 N. Rampart St., 504.569.9979. Map 3, H3; www.meauxbar.com MORTON’S Steaks With its USDA primeaged beef, succulent seafood and infinite wine selection, this renowned steakhouse is the perfect destination for an unparalleled dining experience. D (nightly). 365 Canal St., 504.566.0221. Map 3, E5; www.mortons.com MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Musttries include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce. L (M-Sa), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Su).

201 Royal St., 504.523.2078.

Map 3, E4; www.mrbsbistro.com

MURIEL’S JACKSON SQUARE Creole Overlooking Jackson Square, Muriel’s features several dining rooms and a cozy bar. Enjoy contemporary Creole dishes, such as crawfish-and-goat cheese crepes, pecan-crusted puppy drum and pain perdu bread pudding.

L, D (daily); jazz Br (Sa, Su).

801 Chartres St., 504.568.1885.

Map 3, G4; www.muriels.com NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas.

L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; www.napoleonhouse.com NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, char-grilled oysters and a raw bar. L, D (daily).

510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632.

Map 3, G5 ; www.neworleans creolecookery.com NINE ROSES CAFÉ Vietnamese The Westbank Vietnamese food haven now offers a smaller French Quarter location serving such signature dishes as pho, banh mi sandwiches, rice plates, noodle bowls and springrolls. L, D (MSa). 620 Conti St., 504.324.9450.

Map 3, F4 NOLA American Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter bistro’s small plates-focused menu is perfect for table-sampling its 40-plus dishes. Standouts include the hot frog legs, stuffed chicken wings and oyster-and-brie pot pie. L, D (daily). 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652.

Map 3, F5; www.emerils.com OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana At former Saint Deuce McAllister’s eatery, diners score New Orleans classics (such as soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle.

B, L, D (daily). 132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4; www.olesaint.com PALACE CAFÉ Creole Part of the Brennan restaurant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake and andouille-crusted Gulf fish.

B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4; www.palacecafe.com PELICAN CLUB Louisiana Chef-owner Richard Hughes blends indigenous ingredients with international flavors. The seared tuna with Gulf shrimp is excellent, as is the roasted baby lamb rack. Try the seafood martini appetizer.

D (daily). 312 Exchange Alley, 504.523.1504. Map 3, E4; www.pelicanclub.com PORT OF CALL American Some say this bustling neighborhood joint has the best hamburger in the city; others go strictly for the oversize, overstuffed baked potatoes... and the signature cocktail, the Neptune’s Monsoon. L, D (daily). 838 Esplanade Ave., 504.523.0120. Map 3, I3 ; www. portofcallneworleans.com RED FISH GRILL Seafood Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, double-chocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. L, D (daily). 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200.

Map 3, E4; www.redfish grill.com RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana Chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. L (F), D (nightly); Br (Su). 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4; www.revolutionnola.com

AUGUST 2019

Dining

SOBOU Contemporary The focus at this “south of Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and an amazing selection of Louisiana street food-inspired small plates. B (daily), L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4; www.sobounola.com STANLEY Eclectic Retro soda fountain ambiance meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the eggs Benedict po’ boy, while Reuben sandwiches, burgers and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings.

B, L, D (daily). 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4; www.stanleyrestaurant.com

TABLEAU Creole Housed in historic Le Petit Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes. L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (daily).

616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463.

Map 3, G4; www.tableaufrench quarter.com

A new spirited sanctuary for cocktails, French fare and easy elegance. Located at Maison de la Luz and in partnership with Parisian group Quixotic Projects.

544 Carondelet Street

barmarilou.com

TUJAGUE’S Creole Open since 1856, Tujague’s (“two-jacks”) ranks as one of the city’s oldest eateries. The restaurant serves a traditional Creole prix fixe menu (shrimp remoulade and beef brisket to start, followed by a choice of entrée and pecan pie), along with contemporary a la carte offerings. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 823 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, H5; www.tujaguesrestaurant.com

@barmarilou

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THE GUIDE

SYLVAIN Contemporary Elegant chandeliers dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub just off Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as Chick Syl-vain sandwiches and pasta Bolognese.

D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123.

Map 3, G4; www.sylvainnola.com

Garden District/ Lower Garden District ATCHAFALAYA Creole Look for the giant castiron skillet outside of this upscale neighborhood eatery and menu standouts such as Beets in a Cloud and turtle-and-alligator gumbo. D (nightly); Br (Th-M). 901 Louisiana Ave., 504.891.9626. Map 1, D4; www. atchafalaya restaurant.com COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole This beloved turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers. Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere.

L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; www.commanderspalace.com

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COQUETTE French What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have fried chicken. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4; www. coquette nola.com DISTRICT Coffee Donuts. Sliders. Brew.

That’s the way District bills itself, and that’s exactly what you’ll find at this kicked-up coffee shop: craft-style donuts with rotating flavors, savory sliders and nitro-brewed coffee on tap. B, L, D (daily). 2209 Magazine St., 504.570.6945.

Map 1, D4; www.donutsand sliders.com EMERIL’S DELMONICO Creole Located on the St. Charles streetcar line, this elegant circa-1895 restaurant now serves chef Emeril Lagasse’s modern takes on Creole classics. D (nightly). 1300 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.4937.

Map 1, D3; www.emerils.com GRIS-GRIS Louisiana Chef Eric Cook (American Sector,

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Commander’s Palace) finally has a place of his own, where he whips up elevated New Orleans standards, such as oyster-and-caviar po’ boys and seafood-stuffed crab. L, D (daily). 1800 Magazine St., 504.272.0241. Map 3, D4; www.grisgrisnola.com JACK ROSE Contemporary This bold, contemporary space turns out playful versions of familiar foods.

Think squid-ink pasta with shrimp in a cayenne-kicked barbecue sauce. Cool cocktails; gorgeous desserts. L (F), D (WSu); Br (Su). 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D4; www.jackroserestaurant.com JUAN’S FLYING BURRITO Mexican Can a Mexican joint be both funky and family friendly? Uh, yes, if it’s called Juan’s, where the jerk chicken and mango salad is almost a spiritual experience, and the “Gutter Punk” burrito will turn you into a regular customer.

L, D (daily). 515 Baronne St., 504.529.5825. Map 3, C4; 4724 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.486.9950.

Map 1, D3; 2018 Magazine St., 504.569.0000. Map 1, D4; 5538 Magazine St., 504.497.4800.

Map 1, D4; www.juansflying burrito.com MOLLY’S RISE & SHINE Breakfast The sandwich gurus behind Turkey and the Wolf also operate this equally funky breakfast spot. Collard greens and grits, sweet potato burritos, deviled egg tostadas—expect the unexpected. B (W-M). 2368 Magazine St., 504.302.1896.

Map 1, D4; www.mollysriseandshine.com STEIN’S MARKET & DELI Deli A real-deal Jewish deli in New Orleans? Philadelphia native Dan Stein brings a taste of the Northeast to the Deep South with authentic Reubens on rye, knishes, matzo ball soup and crusty Davidovich bagels.

B, L, D (Tu-Su). 2207 Magazine St., 504.527.0771. Map 1, D3; www.steinsdeli.net TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips,

chicken fried steak. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. L (W-M).

739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428.

Map 1, D4; www.turkeyandthe wolf.com

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a restaurant. Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L, D (daily).

600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111.

Map 1, E3; www.bacchanal wine.com BYWATER AMERICAN BISTRO American Along with pastries and cakes, this sweet neighborhood spot makes happiness happen with an easygoing menu of sandwiches, soups, salads and breakfast go-cups.

B, L (daily). 3624 Dauphine St., 504.366.3336. Map 1, E3; www.bywaterbakery.com

BYWATER BAKERY Bakery The menu at this casual neighborhood spot focuses on local, seasonal ingredients.

Farro risotto with mushrooms and minted breadcrumbs, fried oysters with oyster gravy; try the rabbit curry. D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827. Map 1, E3; www. bywater americanbistro.com THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana Known for its swimming pool, this Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crabmeat beignets, clams and chorizo), salads or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; www. thecountryclubneworleans.com DAT DOG American Here, the ho-hum hot dog stand gets glammed up with imported wieners and sausages tucked into sweet sourdough rolls. Toppings range from standard to sublime. Great

WEDNESDAY, THURSDAY & FRIDAY

JOIN US AT LUNCH TO TOAST

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martinis, lemon drops, manhattans

Includes Soup or Bayona Salad, any Entree and Ice cream or Sorbert

430 Dauphine Street (504) 525-4455

AUGUST 2019

Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

ELYSIAN BAR Eclectic Tucked inside the Peter and Paul Hotel, this sunny yellow dining room feels all warm and cozy, like a relative’s kitchen The menu follows suit, with homey fare such as whipped ricotta with preserved mushrooms on flatbread or chicken confit with white beans and roasted apples. L, D (daily). 2317 Burgundy St., 504.356.6768. Map 1, E3; www.theelysianbar.com THE FRANKLIN Contemporary This handsome, art-filled space serves a mean martini and clever spins on long-popular dishes, such as beef tartar with Vietnamese pho garnishes. D (M-Sa). 2600 Dauphine St., 504.267.0640.

Map 1, E3; www.thefranklinnola.com THE JOINT Barbecue This funky Bywater fave is slim on frills but big on slow-cooked barbecue (pulled pork, beef brisket, juicy ribs) and generous sides. L, D (M-Sa).

701 Mazant St., 504.949.3232.

Map 1, E3; www.alwayssmokin.com NEW ORLEANS CAKE CAFÉ & BAKERY Bakery Steven “the Cake Man” Himelfarb offers breakfast and lunch at his charming Bywater café, but it’s cake that’s the beloved baker’s calling card.

B, L (W-M). 2440 Chartres St., 504.943.0010. Map 1, E3; www.nolacakes.com

PALADAR 511 Contemporary California cooking New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5; www.paladar511.com PIZZA DELICIOUS Italian This pop-up pizzeria grew so popular that it now has its own brick-and-mortar space. New York-style pies with an ever-changing array of market-fresh toppings are offered whole or by the slice. L, D (TuSu). 617 Piety St., 504.676.8482.

Map 1, E3; www.pizzadelicious.com ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic Dating to 1875, this long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character and 24 steel columns.

The stunning space features 11 food vendors, along with a bar. L, D (daily). 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813.Map 1, E3; www.strochmarket.com

Mid-City ANGELO BROCATO’S Bakery This century-old ice cream parlor and confectionery offers a nostalgic slice of Old World Sicily, with some of the best Italian pastries and ice creams this side of Palermo. Open Tu-Su. 214 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.486.0078.

Map 1, D2 ; www.angelobrocato icecream.com BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts.

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THE GUIDE

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

ELIZABETH’S American “Real food done real good” is the motto at this homey neighborhood spot, which draws loyal locals as well as national foodies. Two words to remember: praline bacon. B, L (M-F), D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su).

601 Gallier St., 504.944.9272.

Map 1, E3; www.elizabeths restaurantnola.com

NOLA CANTINA Mexican At this modern taqueria/lounge, you’ll find tons of tacos filled with everything from fried oysters to cauliflower. Other highlights include Ecuadorian-style ceviche, top-shelf margaritas, patio dining and live music nightly.

D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 405 Frenchmen St., 504.266.2848.

Map 3, J5; www.nolacantina.com

Dining

beer selection. L, D (daily). 601 Frenchmen St., 504.309.3362.

Map 3, J5; 3336 Magazine St., 504.868.4391. Map 1, D4; 5030 Freret St., 504.899.6883.

Map 1, D3; www.datdognola.com

If the barbecued pork egg rolls make a menu appearance, get them. L, D, (Tu-Su). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583.

Map 1, D3; www.blueoakbbq.com BROWN BUTTER SOUTHERN KITCHEN & BAR Southern This tucked-away gem serves up creative eats with Bible Belt roots. Evidence: Braised short ribs with grits and boiled peanut salad. L (M-F), D (M-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 231 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.609.3871.

Map 1, D2 ; www.brownbutterrestaurant.com

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CAFÉ DEGAS French Artist Edgar Degas briefly lived and painted just a few blocks from this French café bearing his name. An all-weather patio provides the perfect setting for such signature French fare as escargots and roasted duck. L (W-F), D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 3127 Esplanade Ave., 504.945.5635. Map 1, D2 ; www.cafedegas.com DOOKY CHASE Creole One of the oldest African-American restaurants in the nation. Late, legendary chef Leah Chase, “the Queen of Creole Cuisine,” built a large and loyal following with classic dishes, such as shrimp lima beans and crispy-yettender fried chicken. (Tu-F), D (F). 2301 Orleans Ave., 504.821.0600. Map 1, D3; www. dookychaserestaurant.com GABRIELLE Louisiana Gabrielle’s return to the local restaurant scene is a most-welcome one. The menu reflects long-beloved dishes, such as slow-roasted duck, new recipes and a surprise or two, like braised rabbit with rose-petal syrup and Stilton cheese fries. L (F), D (Tu-Sa). 2441 Orleans Ave., 504.603.2344. Map 1, D3 ; www.gabriellerestaurant.com PARKWAY BAKERY & TAVERN Louisiana The menu here is long but simple: po’boys and more po’boys. Your choices for stuffings: roast beef, oyster, shrimp, catfish and, of course, alligator sausage—and

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that’s just the top of the list.

L, D (W-M). 538 Hagan Ave., 504.482.3047. Map 1, D2; www.parkwaypoorboys.com PIECE OF MEAT Deli The menu at this petit butcher shop and restaurant is loaded with tempting options: cheese-and-boudin eggrolls, brisket sandwiches, tender ribs.

L (Th-Tu), D (Th-Sa); Br (Sa-Su).

3301 Bienville St., 504.372.2289.

Map 1, D3; www.pieceofmeat butcher.com RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana Veteran restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000.Map 1, D2; www.ralphsonthepark.com 1000 FIGS Mediterranean Classic falafel sandwiches and plates are joined by seared squid salads, baba ghanouj, lamb and more. L, D (Tu-Sa). 3141 Ponce de Leon St., 504.301.0848.

Map 1, D2; www.1000figs.com

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TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. L, D (TuSa); Br (Su). 845 Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999.Map 1, D3; www.toupsmeatery.com WILLIE MAE’S SCOTCH HOUSE Southern This beloved neighborhood eatery draws foodies from around the globe with its famous fried chicken and other Southern standards. L (M-Sa).

2401 St. Ann St., 504.822.9503.

Map 1, D3 ; www.williemaesnola.com ZASU Seafood Award-winning chef Sue Zemanick goes coastal at her intimate, Mid-City space: grilled baby octopus, citrus-poached shrimp, saltine-crusted grouper with braised greens and crawfish.

Word of advice: Do not skip dessert. D (M-Sa). 127 N. Carrollton

F E AT U RE D ART I ST: J OAN S L I F KA

ESTATE & CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELRY NEW ORLEANS & VINTAGE CHARMS 534 Royal St. • (504) 522-1305 www.lapetitfleur.com

AUGUST 2019

Dining

Ave., 504.267.3233. Map 1, D2; www.zasunola.com

Uptown AVO Italian Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragout. D (M-Sa); Br (Sa-Su) 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4; www.restaurantavo.com BAR FRANCES American The food is divine at this warm and homey spot.

Start with whipped feta and toasty country bread before diving into mussels with pistachio pesto or an excellent hanger steak and fries with Argentinian chimichurri. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 4525 Freret St., 504.371.5043. Map 1, D3 ; www.barfrances.com

Wine. Cocktails. Charcuterie. & most importantly, Friends.

1320 Magazine Street www.claretnola.com

BRIGTSEN’S Creole A protegé of Paul Prudhomme, chef Frank Brigtsen serves up food that is rooted in Louisiana tradition, but moves into a sphere of its own with his genius for combining tastes and ingredients. D (Tu-Sa). 723 Dante St., 504.861.7610. Map 1, C3; www.brigtsens.com CAMELLIA GRILL American Say “burger” in New Orleans, and Camellia Grill instantly comes to mind. Why? Juicy cheeseburgers, crispy fries and savory chili at one of the most coveted lunch (and dinner) counters in the city— that’s why. B, L, D (daily). 626 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.309.2679.

Map 1, C3

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BOUCHERIE Southern Looking for a place where you can get in and out for under $25? Chef/owner Nathanial Zimet’s culinary creations are as delicious as their prices. L (Tu-Sa); D (MSa); Br (Su). 8115 Jeannette St., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3; www.boucherie-nola.com

CARROLLTON MARKET Louisiana Chef Jason Goodenough’s market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as New Orleans-style cassoulet.

No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough—flash-fried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and béarnaise.

D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928.

Map 1, C3; www.carrollton market.com CAVAN Southern This Victorian home’s “beautiful deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Nathan Richard’s modern Southern cuisine. Start with the boudin tater tots before hopping on the chicken fried rabbit. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4; www.cavannola.com

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CHERRY ESPRESSO BAR Coffee This comfy café offers expertly crafted coffee drinks (hot and cold), fresh-brewed teas, a small case of baked goods and a tight menu of

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breakfast and lunch items.

B, L (daily). 4877 Laurel St., 504.875.3699. Map 1, D4; 1581 Magazine St., 504.267.4722.

Map 1, D4 ; www.cherrycoffee roasters.com CLANCY’S Creole An intimate restaurant in a quiet Uptown neighborhood. Try the oysters-and-brie appetizer, and the veal with crabmeat and béarnaise sauce is a must. They call it “nouvelle Creole”; we call it a favorite neighborhood joint. L (Th-F), D (M-Sa). 6100 Annunciation St., 504.895.1111. Map 1, D4: www.clancysneworleans.com COSTERA Spanish The Spanish-inspired menu encourages plate-sharing with a wide range of tapas (papas bravas, blistered peppers, grilled octopus), along with larger entrees such as seafood paella. L, D (W-M).

4938 Prytania St., 504.302.2332.

Map 1, D4 ; www.costera restaurant.com

DEL FUEGO Mexican Chef David Wright’s ramped-up taqueria is based on recipes and techniques gathered during travels to Mexico. Housemade tortillas wrap around duck enchiladas with Oaxacan mole, while tostadas are topped with smoked Gulf fish. L, D (M-Sa). 4518 Magazine St., 504.309.5797.

Map 1, D4; www.delfuego taqueria.com DTB Cajun Short for “down the bayou,” DTB pays homage to chef Carl Schaubhut’s Cajun country roots with mod twists on Louisiana coastal cuisine.

Think gumbo with crab fat potato salad and crispy duck confit with charred cabbage and sweet potatoes. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889. Map 1, C3; www.dtbnola.com HANSEN’S SNO-BLIZ Dessert Since 1934 locals have been lining up for Hansen’s signature snoballs. Topped with made-from-scratch syr-

ups, the shaved-ice treats are a summer must-have. 4801 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.891.9788.

Map 1, D4; www.snobliz.com LA BOULANGERIE Bakery This French bakery doles out savory and sweet artisanal goods to regulars who are loyal verging on addicted.

Almond or ham-and-cheese croissants make light snacks, while loaves baked with blue cheese or olives are all good enough to devour on their own. $ B, L (M-Sa). 4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777. Map 1, D4; www.laboulangerienola.com LA PETITE GROCERY French An intimate French bistro with gas lighting and pressed-tin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Order the blue crab beignets or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4; www.lapetitegrocery.com

AUGUST 2019

A DV ERT IS MEN T

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LILETTE French Chef John Harris’ bistro looks and feels French, but makes a perfect Italian wedding soup as well. Traditional appetizers are accented with imaginative sauces, such as the escargots with Calvados cream. L (Tu-Sa), D (M-Sa). 3637 Magazine St., 504.895.1636.

Map 1, D4; www.lilette restaurant.com MAX WELL Vegetarian The plantbased, organic menu at this health-conscious café features “nutrient-dense ingredients to promote maximum wellness.”

Translation: fresh fruit and veg juices, silky soups and spectacular salads and bowls.

L, D (daily). 6101 Magazine St., 504.301.0510. Map 1, C4 ; www.maxwellneworleans.com

SH O P P IN G

PASCAL’S MANALE Italian A New Orleans landmark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4; www.pascalsmanale.com PATOIS Louisiana Aaron Burgau has earned all of the praise heaped on him in recent years as a chef “to watch.” Patois combines Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a low-key neighborhood bar scene. L (F), D (W-Sa); Br (Su). 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441. Map 1, D4; www.patoisnola.com PICNIC PROVISIONS & WHISKEY Southern Crawfish-boil hot fried chicken anchors the menu at this playful Commander’s Palace offshoot. Begin with the smoked fish dip and finish with cookie-dough s’mores.

L, D (daily). 741 State St., 504.266.2810. Map 1, D4; www.nolapicnic.com QUE RICO Latin Cuban food 101: tender roast pork with garlicky sour-orange sauce, croquetas, Cubano sandwiches. L, D (Tu-Sa). 4200 Magazine St., 504.827.1398. Map 1, D4

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SABA Mediterranean Chef Alon Shaya provides a taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as octopus with shawarma spices. L (W-F), D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine St., 504.324.7770. Map 3, D4; www.eatwithsaba.com SAFFRON NOLA Indian Chic Indian fare with contemporary flair. Top picks include the pakoda choti and roti sathi. L (F-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4; www.saffronnola.com TACEAUX LOCEAUX Mexican This roving taco truck proved so popular it now has a brick-and-mortar space.

The cheeky menu (Carnital Knowledge, Notorious V.E.G.) offers more than a dozen varieties, all worth trying.

L, D (daily). 737 Octavia St., 504.336.3656. Map 1, D4 TAL’S HUMMUS Mediterranean Soft, spongy pita fresh from the oven is a great vehicle for this Israeli restaurant’s creamy hummus, while the tender-crunchy falafel is extra delicious dragged through silky sesame tahini and beef kabobs are cooled by yogurt sauce.

L, D (daily). 4800 Magazine St., 504.267.7357. Map 1, D4 ; www.ordertalsonline.com VINCENT’S Italian The atmosphere at this Sicilian family-run restaurant is as authentic as its traditional Italian fare. Start with an eggplant “sandwich,” before moving on to the veal-and-spinach cannelloni and seafood-stuffed pork chop. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su). L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su). 7813 St. Charles Ave., 504.866.9313. Map 1, C4 ; www. vincentsitaliancuisine.com

SHOPPING Art Galleries & Antiques A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY The city’s most extensive collection of fine art photo-

graphs for sale. Artists represented include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4; www.agallery.com ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired

by Mick Jagger, among other collectors. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4; www.alexbeardstudio.com ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quarter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Woodrow Nash and Patterson & Barnes. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4; www.angelakinggallery.com ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries.

927 Royal St., 504.304.0849.

Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4; www.antieaugallery.com ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern France on Royal Street, featuring 17thand 18th-century antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars.

623 Royal St., 504.529.4342.

Map 3, G4; www.antiques deprovencellc.com ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’ leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999.

Map 3, C5; www.arthurroger gallery.com ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for undiscovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works—oil paintings, photography, pottery, blown glass, masks—by dozens of regional artists. 85 French Market Place,

504.561.0046. Map 3, I5; www.artistsmarketnola.com BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.522.9485.

Map 3, F4; www.bevolo.com CALLAN CONTEMPORARY Contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518.Map 3, C6; www.callancontemporary.com CLAIRE ELIZABETH GALLERY Emerging local and regional contemporary artists are spotlighted here. Works range from painting and photography to sculpture and papercuts.

131 Decatur St., 504.309.4063.

Map 3, E5; www.claire elizabethgallery.com COLE PRATT GALLERY One of Magazine Street’s leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789.

Map 1, D4; www.colepratt gallery.com CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; www.craigtracy.com DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ CO-OP This popular artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices.

912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220.

Map 3, H5; www.dutchalley artistsco-op.com

AUGUST 2019

Sun–Thu 10 – 6, Fr i – S a t 10 – 9 • 6 1 7 B i e nv i l l e S t , N e w O r l e a n s

FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY Award-winning photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others.

910 Royal St., 504.388.7601.

Map 3, H4; www.frankrelle.com FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861.Map 3, E4; www.gofrenchantiques.com

HAROUNI GALLERY David Harouni has an eye for heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. His expressionistic works have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his French Quarter studio. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4; www.harouni.com

LIGHTING - ART - FURNITURE 637 Royal Street, New Orleans, LA 504.524.9067 / 888.524.9067 www.lightingneworleans.com

JAMES H. COHEN & SONS This fifth-generation, family-run business, founded in 1898, specializes in pre-19th-century weaponry, coins dating from 450 B.C. and Civil War-related items.

437 Royal St., 504.522.3305.

Map 3, F4; www.cohen antiques.com JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This gallery is home to the

KURT E. SCHON LTD. This fine art gallery deals in international oil paintings from the 18th and 19th centuries for collectors, museums and investors. 510 St. Louis St., 504.524.5462. Map 3, F5; www.kurteschonltd.com LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings, sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassworks are among the media exhibited here. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6; www.lemieuxgalleries.com LUCKY ROSE GALLERY Devoted to the porcelain sculpture of artist-owner Cathy Rose, who often incorporates repurposed pieces of New Orleans into her works. 840 Royal St., 504.309.8000.Map 3, H4; www.cathyrose.com M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660.

Map 3, G4; www.rauantiques.com MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERIES This branch of the nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings and sculpture by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4; www.martinlawrence.com MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable.

You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes.

617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4; www.michalopoulos.com

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FUNERAL GALLERY Offbeat illustrations, macabre assemblage dolls, quirky circus banners: If it’s edgy and eclectic, you’ll spot it here.

Works by local and national artists are featured in a wide range of media. 811 Royal St., 504.603.6038. Map 3, H4; www.funeralgallery.com

cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and others.

Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured.

400A Julia St., 504.522.5471.

Map 3, C6; www.jonathanferrara gallery.com

Shopping

FISCHER-GAMBINO An eclectic shop specializing in fine lighting fixtures, as well as statuary, furniture and home interesting home accents.

637 Royal St., 504.524.9067.

Map 3, G4; www.lighting neworleans.com

MODERNIST CUISINE GALLERY Renowned photographer Nathan Myhrvold focuses on the science of cooking and cutting-edge culinary techniques.

305 Royal St., 504.571.5157.

Map 3, F4; www.modernist cuisinegallery.com MOSS ANTIQUES Fine art objects fill this gallery, which offers jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories. Merchandise here comes primarily from England and France. 411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. Map 3, F4; www.mossantiques.com MYTH GALLERY Part animal/part human, Betsy Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also showcases the whimsical sculpture of R. Scott Long. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312.Map 3, H4; www.myth-gallery.com

SH O P P IN G

NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS Since 1938, this Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4; www. neworleanssilversmiths.com OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space spotlights local and international artists. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6; www.octaviaartgallery.com PENNINGTON FINE ART With no formal training, Jim Pennington honed his craft studying (and copying) the paintings of Degas, Sargent, Whistler and others. His French Quarter gallery offers original oilworks, along with giclées.

829 Royal St., 985.789.5547.

Map 3, H4; www.pennington art.com RED TRUCK GALLERY “Beautiful, unexpected art” by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. 940 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4; www.redtruckgallery.com

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RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark is devoted to the works of the late great “Blue Dog” master, George Rodrigue. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; www.georgerodrigue.com SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERY Step into this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.”

4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4; www.ashleylongshore.com STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’ preeminent exhibition space for AfricanAmerican artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker and Charly Palmer, among others. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050.

Map 3, D4; www.stellajones gallery.com STUDIO BE Brandan Odums’ graffiti-style murals are the perfect fit for this massive warehouse space.

The evocative collection explores African-American life through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Sa, 2-8 pm.

2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231.

Map 1, E3; www.ephemeral eternal.com TANNER GALLERY & STUDIO Home to local artist Tanner’s colorful-yet-haunting “treescapes.” Originals are offered.

830 Royal St., 504.524.8266.

Map 3, H4; www.haunting art.com TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life.

3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; www.terranceosborne.com

VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this hip shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Vintage sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and retro barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This fine art gallery features original works from the old masters (Durer, Rembrandt) and masters of the belle époque, (Cheret, Lautrec, Mucha) to the modern masters (Picasso, Dali, Miro, Matisse, Chagall) and the biggest names in post-war contemporary art (Warhol, Francis, Frankenthaler, Motherwell).

Internationally renowned contemporary artists and sculpture are also featured. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4; www.windsorfineart.com WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when there’s Wirthmore? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660. Map 1, D4; www.wirthmoreantiques.com

Books & Music BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare, antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5; www.beckhamsbookshop.com FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction.

624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940.

Map 3, G4; www. faulkner housebooks.com GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP This well-stocked shop offers hundreds of current titles, in addition to a large selection of New Orleans-related books.

Frequent author appearances.

2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266.

Map 1, D4; www.gardendistrict bookshop.com LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Live performances on Saturdays.

421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; www.louisianamusicfactory.com PEACHES RECORDS For nearly five decades, this local chain has been promoting area musicians with a large selection of New Orleans music. 4318 Magazine St., 504.282.3322. Map 1, D4 SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music shop is big on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings. Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

Clothing BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes and accessories. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4; www.billyreid.com THE CAJUN HATTER Self-made milliner Colby Hebert’s Cajun roots are evident in his “swamp chic” headwear, which incorporates natural elements such as alligator skin and beaver felt. 4516 Magazine St., 504.875.4644. Map 1, D4; www.colbyhebert.com DEFEND NEW ORLEANS Part T-shirt shop, part boutique and part home store. With its iconic skull, fleur de lis and musket branding, this hip spot embodies the resilient spirit of the city. 1101 First St., 504.941.7010. Map 1, D4; 600 Carondelet St., 504.324.7463.

Map 3, C5; www.defend neworleans.com DIRTY COAST You won’t find your standard Bourbon Street T-shirts here.

AUGUST 2019

520 Royal Street www.hnoc.org • (504) 523-4662

FLEUR DE PARIS You’re guaranteed to turn heads when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats. Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4; www.fdphats.com GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s hip headwear and stylish stores are found nationwide. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2127 Magazine St., 504.522.1890.

Map 1, D3; www.goorin.com H&M This Swedish-based retail chain is known around the globe for its fab fashions and hard-to-resist prices. Women’s, men’s and children’s clothing is featured, along with home accents. 418 N. Peters St., 855.466.7467.

Map 3, F5; www.hm.com HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, accessories by such lines as BCBG and Laundry are found here. 609 Chartres St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; 3310 Magazine St., 504.702.8009.

Map 1, D4; www.shophemline.com LOST AND FOUND What you’ll find at these fun French Quarter shops is a rotating inventory of women’s clothing and accessories mixed with offbeat gift items. 323 Chartres St., 504.595.6745.

Map 3, F4; www.lostandfound nola.com PERLIS Mudbug season lasts yearround at Perlis, purveyor of its famous crawfish-logo line of clothing. In addition, Perlis carries such specialty items as Mardi Gras-hued rugby shirts.

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THE GUIDE

#artofthecitynola

Shopping

ITION EXH IB A FR E E RING RT I N F E AT U RARY A R O P M E E CO NT Q UART ENCH R F E H T

Catering to locals and in-theknow visitors, Dirty Coast’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans.

713 Royal St., 504.324.6730.

Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745.Map 1, D4; www.dirtycoast.com

The place for classic seersucker suits. 600 Decatur St., 504.523.6681. Map 3, G5; 6070 Magazine St., 504.895.8661.

Map 1, D4; www.perlis.com PIPPEN LANE Go ahead and spoil the child at this upscale boutique, which features fine designer kids’ clothing for both boys and girls, stylish European shoes, custom furniture and embroidered linens. 2930 Magazine St., 504.269.0106. Map 1, D4; www.pippenlane.com QUEORK Cork is the get at this sleek boutique, where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more.

838 Chartres St., 504.481.2585.

Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.388.6803.Map 1, D4; www.queork.com

SH O P P IN G

TASC Originating in New Orleans, this popular line of active wear is now found nationwide.

The secret to its success is its eco-conscious fabric that blends bamboo with organic cotton and merino wool.

3913 Magazine St., 504.304.5030. Map 1, D4; www.tascperformance.com

Gifts & Collectibles BOTTOM OF THE CUP In addition to psychic readings (palm, tarot, tea leaf), this 80-year-old shop offers a variety of teas and accessories.

Crystals, amulets and other metaphysical gift items are also available. 327 Chartres St., 504.524.1997. Map 3, F4; www.bottomofthecup.com BOUTIQUE DU VAMPYRE Searching for a set of custom-made fangs? Look no further than the nation’s only vampire store, where you’ll also find leather coffin cases, silver bullet jewelry and temporary bite tattoos. 709 St. Ann St., 504.561.8267. Map 3, G4; www.feelthebite.com BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and great gift items.

719 Royal St., 504.522.9222.

Map 3, G4; www.shop bungalows.com

TRASHY DIVA Original and vintage-inspired designs with a modern sensibility. The shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie and accessories. 537 Royal St.,504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; www.trashydiva.com

CIGAR FACTORY NEW ORLEANS & MUSEUM Watch master cigar makers at work in the Crescent City’s oldest and only cigar factory and museum. Among the specialty styles made here are Plantation Reserve and Vieux Carré. 415 Decatur St., 504.568.1003.

Map 3, F5; 206 Bourbon St., 504.568.0168. Map 3, E4; www. cigarfactoryneworleans.com

UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs at drastically reduced prices. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4; www.shopual.com

DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with his decorative pottery. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4; www.derbypottery.com

WEINSTEIN’S Elegant European women’s wear, from casual to formal, is the specialty at this store, which features the latest by leading designers. 4011 Magazine St., 504.895.6278. Map 1, D4; www.weinsteinsinc.com

ERZULIE’S AUTHENTIC VOUDOU Experience the power of authentic voodoo at this shop, which offers handcrafted spell kits, magical gris-gris bags, voodoo psychic oils, love potions, dolls and more.

807 Royal St., 504.525.2055.

Map 3, G4; www.erzulies.com

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FOREVER NEW ORLEANS At this shop, you’ll find fleurde-lis everything—from pillows to pottery—along with other Crescent City-themed keepsakes and gift items. 308 Royal St., 504.525.0100. Map 3, F4; 606 Royal St., 504.510.4813.

Map 3, G4; 700 Royal St., 504.586.3536. Map 3, G4; www. shopforeverneworleans.com HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERY This magical emporium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners, and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558.

Map 3, I5; www.hexwitch.com LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770.

Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5; www.littletoyshopnola.com MADAME AUCOIN PERFUME “The oldest perfumer in the South” lives on thanks to her great grand-nephew, who recently reopened shop in her former residence. Artisanal fragrance lines are featured.

608 Bienville St., 504.259.5975.

Map 3, F4; www.madame aucoinperfume.com THE MASK GALLERY Austrian crystals, hand-tooled leather and fanciful feathers are the signature touches of maskmaker Massoud Dalili’s colorful Carnival creations.

841 Royal St., 504.523.6664.

Map 3, F4; www.neworleans mask.com MIETTE Out-of-the-ordinary gifts and souvenirs are showcased at this colorful and crowded boutique.

A mix of locally made jewelery, crafts, clothing and home accents is offered. 2038 Magazine St., 504 .522.2883. Map 1, D4; www. iheartmiette.com NOLA BOARDS Add a dash of Crescent City flavor to your home kitchen with

this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. 4304 Magazine St., 504.435.1485. Map 1, D4; www. nolaboards.com NOLA KIDS This children’s boutique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth, along with toys, books and great gift items. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340.

Map 3, F4; www.shopnola kids.com RICCA ARCHITECTURAL SALES This Mid-City warehouse is packed with retro Southern splendor rescued from demolished buildings. Hard-to-find antique hardware, ornate mantles, stained-glass windows and an endless selection of doors merely hint at the offerings. 511 N. Solomon St., 504.488.5524.

Map 1, D2; www.riccas architecturalsales.com ROUX ROYALE This shop caters to foodies with select serving ware and kitchen-related accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4; www.shoprouxroyale.com

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and topof-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090.

Map 1, D4; www.aidangillfor men.com BELLADONNA DAY SPA Attempting to cover the entire six-mile stretch of Magazine Street can run even the most ardent shopper ragged.

Thankfully, Belladonna sits at the halfway point, providing rejuvenation before heading back out on the hunt. 2900 Magazine St., 504.891.4393.

Map 1, D4; www.belladonna dayspa.com

AUGUST 2019

HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that has been in business for 80-plus years.

Among the perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents.

434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827.

Map 3, F5; www.hoveparfumeur.com

WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10 private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate French clay, roses and water lilies. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200.

Map 3, E3; www.roosevelt neworleans.com TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these centrally located relaxation stations, which specialize in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4;

Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7

Jewelry ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget.

Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; www. artandeyesneworleansla.com

ing with his locally designed line of glasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, H4; 1818 Magazine St., 504.342.2462.

Map 1, D4; www.krewe.com LA PETIT FLEUR Specializing in estate and contemporary jewelry, La Petit Fleur is well known for its own line of pendants based on the fleur de lis. The shop also offers Crescent City-themed charms..

534 Royal St., 504.522.1305.

Map 3, G4; www.lapetit fleur.com

FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron, St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254.

Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4; www.fleurdorleans.com

MIGNON FAGET Designer Faget has created jewelry for more than four decades.

New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 504.524.2973.

Map 3, E5; 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; www.mignonfaget.com

KREWE Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett has garnered a national follow-

PORTER LYONS Jewelry designer Ashley Lyons is a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her

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THE GUIDE

SEPHORA The local branch of the nation’s leading cosmetics and perfume retailer offers more than 13,000 products from 200-plus brands, all of which can be tested on-site. 414 N. Peters St., 504.561.9889. Map 3, F5; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.830.4567. Map 1, C2; www.sephora.com

THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious, award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café.

921 Canal St., 504.670.2929.

Map 3, E3; www.ritzcarlton.com

Shopping

FIFI MAHONY’S In search of the perfect pink wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby red lipstick? It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4; www.fifimahonys.com

New Orleans roots that inspire her creations. 631 Toulouse St., 504.518.4945. Map 3, G5; www.porterlyons.com WELLINGTON & COMPANY This shop is largely devoted to antique and estate jewelry, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and art deco designs. New designer lines are also featured. 505 Royal St., 504.525.4855.

Map 3, F4; www.wcjewelry.com.

Malls/ Major Retailers

AT T R A C T IO N S

LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and the airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, Macy’s, Michael Kors, Microsoft and Sephora.

3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2; www.lakesideshopping.com THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Located along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the nation’s first urban outlet center offers more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio.

500 Port of New Orleans Place, 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7; www.riverwalkneworleans.com THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5; www. theshopsatcanalplace.com

Shoes GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop for professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers to dress shoes.

539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929.

Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2; www.orleansshoes.com

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JOHN FLUEVOG “Unique soles for unique souls.” This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers.

321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296.

Map 3, F4; www.fluevog.com NOLA FOOT CANDY Sweet treats for your feet.

Located along Jackson Square, this womens shoe shop stocks a wide variety of fun and fashionable styles. 510 St. Peter St., 504.252.9144. Map 3, G4; www.nolafootcandy.com SHOE BE DO Get a step ahead with cutting-edge women’s footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; www.shoebedousa.com

Special Services PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICES This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with 40 related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415.

Map 1, D4; www.packrat shipping.com

ATTRACTIONS Attractions & Landmarks ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre green space is home to Congo Square, where jazz is believed to have first taken root.

N. Rampart and St. Ann streets.

Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Admission includes a ticket for the Entergy Giant Screen Theater.

Open daily at 10 am; call for closing hours. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6; www.auduboninstitute.org

AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN & INSECTARIUM The nation’s largest museum devoted to insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5; www.auduboninstitute.org AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36).

St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4; www.auduboninstitute.org AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the finest in the U.S. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing hours. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4; www.auduboninstitute.org CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities of the dead” act as windows on the past, offering insight into local history and customs. Many are located in high-crime areas.

Tours are available; do not venture in alone, day or night.

CHALMETTE BATTLEFIELD & NATIONAL CEMETERY Just down the river from where Andrew Jackson’s statue stands in the square that bears his name is the battlefield where he fought the last battle of the War of 1812. 8606 W St Bernard Hwy., 504.281.0510.

Map 1, F3 ; www.nps.gov/jela/ chalmette-battlefield.htm CHAMPIONS SQUARE This open-air venue, adjacent to the Mercedes-Benz Superdome, boasts 45,000 sq. ft. and stateof-the-art technology. The space plays host to free fan fests during New Orleans Saints home games and numerous concerts throughout the year.

1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3822.

Map 3, B2; www.champions-square.com CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 Dreyfous Ave., 504.482.4888.

Map 1, D2; www.neworleans citypark.com CRESCENT PARK Looking for unique views of the city? Stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront promenade, which stretches from the French Quarter to the Bywater neighborhood. Map 3, J6; www.crescentparknola.org ESCAPE MY ROOM The concept of this live, interactive game is simple—solve the puzzle within an hour and you and your teammates “escape” the mystery room—but it’s way more complex (and fun) than that. Reservations required. 633 Constance St., 504.475.7580. Map 3, D6; www.escapemyroom.com FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market dates to pre-colonial days. Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1100 N. Peters St., 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5; www.frenchmarket.org FULTON ALLEY Putting a fresh spin on the old bowling alley, this upscale venue offers 12 lanes in a sleek setting, along with an indoor game parlor (bocce, foosball, etc.), cool craft cocktails and big-flavored small plates.

600 Fulton St., 504.208.5569.

Map 3, D6; www.fultonalley.com HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino features 2,100 slots, 104 table games, live entertainment and a lavish buffet. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6; www.harrahsneworleans.com JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo op. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5 JEAN LAFITTE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK AND PRESERVE On this 23,000-acre area of

AUGUST 2019

Attractions

protected wetlands, you’ll get to see egrets, cranes, pelicans and alligators in their natural habitat. Wooden walkways allow you to explore deep into the swamp. 6588 Barataria Blvd., Marrero, 504.589.3882. www.nps.gov/jela LAFITTE GREENWAY This 2.6-mile bike and pedestrian trail connects Armstrong Park to City Park. The ADAcompliant green corridor, dotted with recreation fields, offers quiet retreat in the heart of the city. Map 3, F2; www.lafittegreenway.org MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4 pm. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8; www.mardigrasworld.com

NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS This popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495.

Map 1, D3; www.seelos.org NEW ORLEANS CULINARY & HOSPITALITY INSTITUTE Catering to foodies, this stateof-the-art facility offers a variety of hands-on courses, along with a taste of Crescent City culinary history and a casual café. 725 Howard Ave., 504.5891.4060.

Map 3, B5; www.nochi.org NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This pocket park celebrates Bourbon Street’s musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site

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MERCEDES-BENZ SUPERDOME The recently revamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2; www.mbsuperdome.com

café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and live music.

311 Bourbon St., 504.888.7608.

Map 3, F4; www.neworleans musicallegends.com NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & STORE Creole/Cajun cooking demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm.

524 St. Louis St., 504.208.5320.

Map 3, F5; www.nosoc.com OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is the oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M-F, 10 am-4 pm; Sa, 9 am-3 pm. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4; www.stlouiscathedral.org

AT T R A C T IO N S

SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Superdome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2 ; www.smoothiekingcenter.com ST. AUGUSTINE CHURCH The second-oldest AfricanAmerican Catholic church in the nation. A jazz Mass is held Sundays at 10 am. 1210 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.525.5934 Map 3, I2; www.staugustine catholicchurch-neworleans.org ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Mass said daily.

615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square), 504.525.9585.

Map 3, G4; www.stlouis cathedral.org WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront promenade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6

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Museums ABITA MYSTERY HOUSE Housed in a former filling station in nearby Abita Springs, artist John Preble’s eccentric send-up of “redneck culture” features offbeat oddities fashioned from more than 50,000 found objects. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 22275 Highway 36, Abita Springs, 985.892.2624.

Map 2, F1; www.abitamysteryhouse.com BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM Located in a former funeral parlor, this offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous sendoffs and second-line parades.

Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display.

Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm.

1116 Henriette Delille St., 504.522.4806. Map 3, I2; www.backstreetmuseum.org CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also plays host to performances. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6; www.cacno.org

noon-3 pm. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750. Map 3, F4; www.hgghh.org HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions and permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; www.hnoc.org LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS The Louisiana State Museum operates five French Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbyère, the circa-1789 Madame John’s Legacy (presently closed ofr repairs); the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. 504.568.6968. www. louisianastatemuseum. org

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits. The Victory Theater shows the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries.”

945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944.

Map 3, B6; ww.nationalww2 museum.org NEW ORLEANS AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM This repository of AfricanAmerican art, culture and history is located in the Faubourg Tremé, America’s oldest black neighborhood. 1417-1419 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.566.1136.

Map 3, I2; www.noaam.org NEW ORLEANS HISTORIC VOODOO MUSEUM Explore this misunderstood religion through the museum’s artifacts and exhibits. Readings and tours are also offered.

Open daily, 10 am-6 pm. 724 Dumaine St., 504.680.0128.

Map 3, H4 ; www.voodoo museum.com

DEGAS HOUSE The home where Edgar Degas lived during his time in New Orleans is filled with prints of the French impressionist’s works.

Tours of the 1852 property are offered daily at 10:30 am and 1:45 pm, and by appointment.

2306 Esplanade Ave., 504.821.5009. Map 1, D2; www.degashouse.com GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm. 1132 Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4; www.hgghh.org HERMANN-GRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/ museum provides a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past.

Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa,

We’ve combined five tours into ONE EXCITING CITY TOUR FRENCH QUARTER • KATRINA RECOVERY • HITORIC CHEMETERIES GARDEN DISTRICT • NEW ORLEANS ARCHITECTURE

AUGUST 2019

St. Joseph Plantation -Family owned since 1877.

St. Joseph Plantation -Original cabins of the Enslaved.

St.-Annual Joseph Plantation -Family owned since 1877.

Creole Mourning Tour the

-Original cabins of the Enslaved.

-Family owned since 1877. month of October.Tour the -Annual -OriginalCreole cabinsMourning of the Enslaved.

-Birthplace of 19th century architect, October.Tour -Annualmonth Creole of Mourning the Henry H. Richardson.

-Birthplace of 19th century month of October.architect, -ToursHenry offered days a week.

H.seven Richardson.

-Birthplace of 19th century architect, -Tours offered days aLAweek.

Henry H.seven Richardson.

3535 Hwy. 18 (River Road), Vacherie, 70090 -Tours offered seven days a week.

3535 Hwy. 18 (River Road), Vacherie, LA 70090

STJOSEPHPLANTATION.COM

3535 Hwy. 18 (River Road), Vacherie, LA 70090

STJOSEPHPLANTATION.COM

ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE

WHEN YOU SEE LES CLEFS D’OR KEYS. PLAY. EXPLORE. FEAST. ACCOMPLISH. No one knows more or can do more for you than Les Clefs d’Or Concierges. Search beyond the internet, and discover for yourself why anything is possible with Les Clefs d’Or Concierges.

OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open F-W, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; www.ogdenmuseum.org PITOT HOUSE MUSEUM Located along scenic Bayou St. John, this circa-1799 home, built for New Orleans’ first mayor, is an excellent example of a Creole plantation house. Open W-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. 1440 Moss St., 504.482.0312. Map 1, D2; www.louisianalandmarks.org SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFAB features exhibits, along with cooking classes.

Open W-M, 11 am-5:30 pm.

1504 Oretha C. Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3; www.southernfood.org

Plantations DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 30-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley.

Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. Closed all major holidays.

13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La.,

HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds.

Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877.303.1776 for details.

40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380. www.houmas house.com LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This 1804 structure is one of the oldest and largest complexes on River Road. Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages of documents detailing 200 years of Creole plantation life by the women, children and servants who lived there. Guided tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm.

2247 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. www.laura plantation.com NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White Castle of Louisiana” is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South.

Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. Overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended.

31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730. www.nottoway.com OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture-perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a spectacular sight.

“The Grande Dame of Great River Road” offers overnight accommodations in century-old cottages. Guided tours daily, 9 am-5 pm. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 888.279.9802. www.oakalleyplantation.org SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home, built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural

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STJOSEPHPLANTATION.COM

NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM This former apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain.Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm.

514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027.

Map 3, G4; www.pharmacy museum.org

877.453.2095. www.destrehan plantation.org

Attractions

NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free outdoor sculpture garden.

Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm.

1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; www.noma.org

styles. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. Closed major holidays.

2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756. www.sanfrancisco plantation.org ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of 19th-century architect Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877. The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. 535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078. www.stjosephplantation.com

EN T ER TA IN M EN T

WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the public for the first time in its 265-year history, this plantation explores slavery through moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300. www.whitneyplantation.com

ENTERTAINMENT Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore Louisiana swamplands via guided, high-speed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. 504.689.2005 or 888.

GO.SWAMP. www.airboat adventures.com CANOE & TRAIL ADVENTURES Explore Lake Pontchartrain the way Native Americans did.

Daily three-hour, eco-friendly canoe and kayak excursions with certified guides are offered. Call for reservations and launch locations. 504.233.0686 CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides intimate group tours of the French Quarter, Garden District and area cemeteries, along with Hurricane Katrina recovery excursions and private outings.

Tours average 2.5 to three hours; rates vary. 504.587.7115. www.celebrationtoursllc.com

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CITY SEGWAY TOURS Why walk when you can glide?

Guided two- and three-hour Segway tours of the French Quarter and Tremé are offered daily. 214 Decatur St., 877.734.8687. www.city segwaytours.com Map 3, E5 CITY SIGHTSEEING This double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; www. citysightseeingneworleans.com CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS These guided bicycle tours take visitors out of the French Quarter and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored neighborhoods. Cocktail and culinary excursions are also offered. 634 Eylsian Fields Ave., 504.400.5468.

Map 3, J5; www.confederacyof cruisers.com CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; www.creolequeen.com DRINK & LEARN Culinary historian Elizabeth Pearce leads these fun and informative tippling tours through the French Quarter.

504.578.8280. www.drinkandlearn.com FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS These guided walking tours cover everything from ghost and vampire lore to cemeteries and music. All tours depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street); reservations required. 718 N. Rampart St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4; www.frenchquarter phantoms.com FRENCH QUARTOUR KIDS These guided walks take children on a journey back in time through the streets of the historic Vieux Carré. Check website for current tour schedule.

504.975.5355. www.frenchquartourkids.com.

FRIENDS OF THE CABILDO Informative, two-hour walking tours of the French Quarter are offered daily at 10:30 am and 1:30 pm. 523 St. Ann St., 504.523.3939. Map 3, G5; www.friendsofthecabildo.org GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS Gray Line offers a variety of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, Steamboat and River Cruises—and all possible combinations. All depart from the Toulouse Street Wharf.

Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; www.graylineneworleans.com HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. www.haunted historytours.com JEAN LAFITTE SWAMP TOURS This privately owned company with trained guides provides an up-close look at local flora and fauna. Daily swamp and airboat tours are offered. Transportation from area hotels available. 6601 Leo Kerner Lafitte Pkwy., Marrero, 504.529.4567. www.jeanlafitte swamptour.com KAYAK-ITI-YAT Kayak tours of beautiful Bayou St. John, which cuts a scenic swatch through the midsection of the city, are offered daily; call for launch times. (Tours launch across from 3494 Esplanade Ave.) 985.778.5034 ; 512.964.9499. Map 1, D2; www.kayakitiyat.com NEW ORLEANS SPIRITS AND SPELLS TOUR These guided spirited journeys through the French Quarter explore the ghosts, gris-gris and witchery associated with the world’s most magical city.

Departs Friday to Sunday at

7 pm from Hex: Old World Witchery. 1219 Decatur St., 504.667.5570. Map 3, I5; www.spiritsandspellstour.com NOLA BREW BUS Beer fans get their fill on these fun, guided tasting tours of local breweries. Private and custom excursions are also available. 1129 Decatur St., no phone. Map 3, H5; www.nolabrewbus.com NOLA GONDOLA A romantic retreat in the heart of the city. Board the Bella Mae, an authentic Venetian gondola, for a guided glide through City Park’s Big Lake and mossdraped lagoons. Tours are 50 minutes and can accommodate up to six. 56 Dreyfous Dr., City Park, 504.450.4400. Map 1, D2 ; www.nolagondola.com PEARL RIVER ECO-TOURS Tours of the Honey Island swamp are offered daily.

Transportation from New Orleans hotels is offered for an additional charge. Reservations required 866.597.9267. www. pearlriverecotours.com RIVERBOAT CITY OF NEW ORLEANS The city’s newest riverboat has all of the flair and flavor of the city, with great dining, jazz, bars, history and culture. Daily jazz brunch and dinner cruises are offered. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401.

Map 3, E7; www.riverboatcity ofneworleans.com SAVE OUR CEMETERIES St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am, 11:30 am and 1 pm from Backatown Coffee Parlour (301 Basin St.). Lafayette No. 1: departs daily at 10:30 am and 1 pm from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). 504.525.3377. www.save ourcemeteries.org STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. Toulouse

AUGUST 2019

In Historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church - Sanctuary of Prayer, Hope & Healing

BAR MARILOU With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisianaccented space is perfect for sipping an afternoon appertif while nibbling on sophisticated bites, such as crisped potato stacks topped with crème fraïche and caviar. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711.

Map 3, D4; www.barmarilou.com

VIP CITY TOURS These two-hour excursions offer a sweeping overview of the city, from the French Quarter and the Garden District to Lake Pontchartrain and the Lower 9th Ward. Tours conducted daily at 9 am, 1 and 4 pm.

2314 Iberville St., 504.329.2489.

Map 1, D3; www.vipcitytours.com

BAR TONIQUE Dark woods and candlelight set the mood for top-shelf cocktails, housemade tonics and an extensive selection of wines by the glass. 820 N. Rampart St., 504.324.6045. Map 3, H3; www.bartonique.com

WHEEL FUN RENTALS This company offers a variety of ways to explore City Park.

Surrey, chopper, cruiser and tandem bikes are among the many cycles available for hourly rentals, in addition to kayaks, pedal boatsand more.

Open daily at 10 am. Big Lake Trail, City Park, 504.300.1289.

Map 1, D2 ; www.wheelfun renatals.com

NIGHTLIFE Cocktails

- Religious Articles - Free Tours 919 Josephine St. in the Irish Channel (one block off Magazine Street)

TABASCO PEPPER SAUCE FACTORY TOUR Daily guided tours of the famous factory and museum are offered 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays), along with tours of the Jungle Gardens and Bird City. La. Hwy. 329, Avery Island, La., 337.365.8173. Map 2, C2; www.tabacso.com

(504) 525-2495 seelos.org

PRODUCTS & SERVICES: Notary Public Copies, Fax & Scan

WE SHIP WINE!

FedEx, DHL, & USPS Shipping 9 am – 6 pm; SAT 10 am – 4 pm; SUN Closed

3436 Magazine St. | 504.899.5415

ALTO Get above it all at the Ace Hotel’s rooftop bar, which offers amazing views and poolside dining. Open daily, 10 am-9 pm. 600 Corondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map 3, C5; www.acehotel.com/new orleans/alto ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; www.arnauds.com AVENUE PUB The New Orleans go-to for craft beers, offering the city’s largest available selection of locally produced brews. 1732 St. Charles Ave., 504.586.9243.

BARCADIA A bar and arcade in one—get it?

Old-school games (Jenga, Skeeball, air hockey) are the draw... along with 30-plus beers on tap. Hungry? Grab a burger or a fried PB&J. 601 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.335.1740. Map 3, D6; www.barcadianola.com BARREL PROOF This Lower Garden District hot spot offers more than 150 brands of whiskey from around the globe. 1201 Magazine St., 504.299.1888. Map 3, A7; www.barrelproofnola.com BAYOU WINE GARDEN This casual Mid-City spot offers 32 rotating wines on draft and a huge bottled selection. Cheese and charcuterie boards are also available, in addition to small and large plates. More a suds fan? Cross the courtyard bridge to the adjacent Bayou Beer Garden. 315 N. Rendon St., 504.826.2925. Map 1, D3; www.bayouwinegarden.com BRIEUX CARRÉ This small-batch brewery, steps from Frenchmen Street, offers a rotating variety of craft beers that are “as weird and interesting as the city.” 2115 Decatur St., 504.304.4242. Map 3, J5; www.brieuxcarre.com THE BULLDOG The patio is the way to go at this British-themed pub, where the fountain is fashioned from doz-

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National Shrine of Blessed Francis Xavier SEELOS

Map 1, D3; www.theavenue pub.com

Nightlife

St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; www.steamboatnatchez.com

ens of old beer taps. Only fitting given the dog-friendly tavern’s 48-plus draft beers and additional 100 varieties offered by the bottle. 3236 Magazine St., 504.891.1516. www.draftfreak. com Map 1, D4; 5135 Canal Blvd., 504.488.4191. Map 1, D2 ; www.draftfreak.com CLARET WINE & COCKTAIL BAR A welcoming neighborhood vibe, 25 wines by the glass, dozens by the bottle, creative cocktails and a large selection of small plates will make you settle in here for a while. D (nightly), Br (F-Su). 1320 Magazine St., 504.766.9425. Map 1, D4; www.claretnola.com

N IG H T L IF E

CURE This cutting-edge cocktail lounge, housed in a former fire station, has one foot in the 19th century and one in the 21st, making it one of the hippest places in town to imbibe and socialize. 4905 Freret St., 504.302.2357. Map 1, D3; www.curenola.com EFFERVESENCE This bubbly spot features 90plus bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates. Open W-Su. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3; www.nolabubbles.com HERMES BAR This sophisticated hideaway, tucked inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street. Live entertainment on weekends. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4; www.antoines.com HOT TIN Named after a Tennessee Williams play (the author once stayed here) this sophisticated space on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel offers creative cocktails and amazing views. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1453. Map 1, D3; www.hottinbar.com LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching

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the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H4; www. lafittesblacksmithshop.com NOLA BREWING Weekly brewery tours, a massive tap room and in-house barbecue make this a must-stop for beer fans. 3001 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.9996. Map 3, D4; www.nolabrewing.com OLD ABSINTHE HOUSE A favored tavern of such bon vivants as Oscar Wilde, Mark Twain and Walt Whitman, this historic bar continues to draw absinthe enthusiasts and those thirsty for a taste of authentic New Orleans as it has since 1806. 240 Bourbon St., 504.523.3181. Map 3, F4; www.oldabsinthehouse.com PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; www.patobriens.com THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip.

State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354.

Map 3, E4; www.penthouse clubneworleans.com PORT ORLEANS BREWING Along with close to a dozen craft brews on tap and an onsite eatery, this popular brewery offers guided tours (Sa-Su at 1 and 3 pm). Mondays are bingo night; Thursdays bring trivia. 4124 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.266.2332. Map 1, D4 ; www. portorleansbrewingco.com Royal Frenchmen Bar Just steps from the bustling nightlife on Frenchmen Street, this cozy bar offers craft cocktails, local brews, light bites and live music nightly. Open daily at noon.

700 Royal St., 504.619.9660.

Map 3, J4 ; www.royalfrenchmen.com

SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic cocktails in the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.309.6530. Map 3, E3; www. therooseveltneworleans.com WALK-ON’S Within walking distance of the Superdome, this popular game-day gathering ground is part restaurant, part sports bar and all fun. 1009 Poydras St., 504.648.1200. Map 3, C4; www. walk-ons.com WRONG IRON Just off the Lafitte Greenway, this casual beer garden offers 50-plus drafts, along wine and cocktails on tap. Hungry? Grab a bite from one of the visiting food trucks. 3532 Toulouse St., 504.302.4242. Map 1, D3 ; www.wrongiron.com

Live Entertainment APPLE BARREL This raffish joint is tiny but has a warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the crowded room. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J5 BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish. Local acts perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.766.6193. Map 3, J5; www.bluenilelive.com CAFÉ NEGRIL This intimate club features crowd-pleasing live acts, ranging from jazz and blues to rock and reggae (Fridays), and an island-themed atmosphere that sets a mellow vibe. 606 Frenchmen St., 504.383.5131.

Map 3, J5; www.cafenegril nola.com CAROUSEL BAR Located in the Hotel Monteleone, this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers). Live music nightly.

214 Royal St., 504.523.3341.

Map 3, E4; www.hotel monteleone.com CHICKIE WAH WAH This hot venue keeps the MidCity music scene at a steady boil with sets by leading jazz and funk acts. 2828 Canal St., 844.244.2543. Map 1, D3; www.chickiewahwah.com D.B.A. This chic hangout on the Frenchmen strip features 20 premium draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and live music nightly. Lively weehours scene. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5; www.dbaneworleans.com THE DAVENPORT LOUNGE An elegant escape inside the Ritz-Carlton offering classic New Orleans cocktails and sexy small plates, along with entertainment by trumpeter/ crooner Jeremy Davenport.

921 Canal St., 504.524.1331.

Map 3, E3; www.ritzcarlton.com THE FILLMORE NEW ORLEANS Harrah’s Casino ups the live-music ante with this 22,000 sq.-ft. offshoot of the legendary San Francisco venue, which feaures top-tier national touring acts. 6 Canal St., 504.881.1555. Map 3, E6; www.fillmorenola.com GASA GASA Live music, local art exhibitions, film screenings and recording sessions are all on tap at this quirky Uptown music venue. 4920 Freret St., 504.338.3567. Map 1, D3; www.gasagasa.com HI-HO LOUNGE This legendary dive got a recent makeover, complete with an expanded stage and new sound system. Thankfully the vibe remains as funky and friendly as ever. Entertainment runs the gamut, from bluegrass to burlesque. 2239 St. Claude Ave., 504.945.4446. Map 3, K4; www.hiholounge.net HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans

AUGUST 2019

HOWLIN’ WOLF This locally owned and operated club features low cover charges and low attitude. Acts include both local favorites and big names.

907 S. Peters St., 504.529.5844.

Map 3, C7; www.thehowlin wolf.com THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. The club features a rotating roster of leading local talent nightly at 8 pm.

300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299.

Map , F4; www.sonesta.com/ jazzplayhouse

MAPLE LEAF A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3; www.mapleleafbar.com ONE EYED JACKS Rockabilly, retro, rock, neo-burlesque: this swank-dive serves it all up in a vintage bordello atmosphere. 615 Toulouse St., 504.569.8361. Map 3, G4; www.oneeyedjacks.net PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Don’t want to stand or sit on the floor? Call ahead to reserve Big Shot seats.

726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841.

Map 3, G4; www.preservationhall.com REPUBLIC NEW ORLEANS One of downtown’s hottest night spots. Bands, touring and local, share the stage with a late-night dance club. 828 S. Peters St., 504.528.8282.

ROCK ’N’ BOWL A legendary local favorite now in a new, larger location, Rock ’n’ Bowl still features the winning combination of bowling lanes and live music from the region’s top zydeco, R&B and rock acts.

3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.861.1700.Map 1, D3; www.rockandbowl.com SNUG HARBOR An elegant, intimate mainstay of Frenchmen Street’s music row. Two sets nightly.

626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696.Map 3, J4; www.snugjazz.com THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual, laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following among locals and visitors alike. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) . 623 Frenchmen St., no phone.Map 3, J5; www.spot tedcatmusicclub.com STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Swing back to a bygone era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6; ww.stagedoorcanteen.org THREE MUSES This hip space is a veritable nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5; www.3musesnola.com TIPITINA’S The legendary Tip’s offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars.. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; www.tipitinas.com VAUGHAN’S This tumbledown dive deep in the Bywater neighborhood gets jam-packed during its legendary Thursday night jam sessions, now headlined by Corey Henry & the Treme Funktet.

800 Lessups St., 504.947.5562.

Map 1, E3

53

THE GUIDE

LITTLE GEM SALOON This long-neglected jazz landmark has received a new lease on life, and is once again a player on the city’s live-music scene with performances most nights of the week. 445 S. Rampart St., 504.267.4863. Map 3, C3; www.littlegemsaloon.com

Map 3, C6; www.republicnola.com

Nightlife

favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; www.hob.com

SPECI A L A DV ERT ISING SECT ION

1 menTion where For

$5 Off your S. RAMPART

L.

400

ST. LOUIS

SITY P

E

EEF

O'K

500

BURGUNDY

100

IBERVILLE

WiTh a New OrleANS WiTc WiTch! WiT ch!*

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300 CONTI

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Psychic Reading

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DAUPHINE HermannGrima House

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RFR Steam RIVE Gray Line Tour Natch Departures

LIA

504.613.0558 • HexWitch.com

join us fri - sun at 7pm for

ROYAL

DORSIERE

JU

1219 Decatur St. • Near French Market

2

Vieux Carré Police Station

7

S

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ChrisTian Day & brian cain Voodoo CANDLES Herbs OcculT Dolls & INCENSE & Oils Books

2

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3

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CA

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Ernest N. Morial Convention Center

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* not valid with other offers.

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CARONDELET

RIVERFRONT STREETCAR STOPS

5

Woldenberg Riverfront Park

Harrah’s Casino

Aquarium of the Americas & Entergy Imax Algiers Theatre 6 Riverwalk Ferry Creole Queen

. .because there is always time for a picnic in Tuscany.

3 Steamboat

Winner 3 years in a row, New Orleans Magazine Tops of the Town for Brunch 2017, 2018, 2019 125 Camp Street | 504-561-8844 | www.redgravycafe.com Summer Hours 9-2 (closed Tuesday & Wednesday)

4

907 Bourbon Street (504) 592-4666 Vintage Designer Sunglasses & More 329 Royal Street New Orleans, LA 70130 504-525-2262 | vintage329.com

54

NO-WM_090300_Skully's-FQ Walk.in1 1

907 Bourbon Street (504) 592-4666

W HERETRAVELER ® CI TY NA ME HE RE

MONTH YEAR NO-WM_090300_Skully's-FQ Walk.in1 1

2/9/09 2:37:04 PM

2/9/09

SPECI A L A DV ERT ISING SECT ION

7

FRENCH QUARTER N Y

KERLEREC

ST .A N TH O

BURGUNDY

1200

ESPLANADE

1100

BARRACKS

1000

URSULINES

900

ST. PHILIP

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9

800

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700

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600

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Mahalia Jackson Theater of the Performing Arts Armstrong Park

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ROYAL Gallier House

Madame John's Legacy

Jackson Square

H M EN

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700

PIRATE’S PERE ALLEY ANTOINE ALLEY

1

(no Mardi Gras beads)

85 French Market Pl., 1228 Decatur St., New Orleans, LA 70116

504.561.0046

Historic Algiers Point

sales@theartistsmarketnola.com

www.theartistsmarketnola.com

5

6

9

KILLER POBOYS Internationally Inspired, Chef Crafted, New Orleans Style Sandwiches

219 Dauphine (504) 462-2731 Wed - Mon | 10AM - 8PM

811 Conti @ Erin Rose Bar (504)252-6745 Wed - Mon | 10AM - Midnight

55

S. RAMPART

100 BARO

NNE

9 EXCHANGE ALLEY

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4

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3

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6

Historic Algiers Point

WALKING TOUR

4

Serving Lunch & Dinner.

Live Music Thursday - Sunday 504-524-9632

510 Toulouse St. NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

3 Find the best of the city

TWO LOCATIONS 837 Canal Street (plus, full service nail salon) 212 Chartres Street 210.843.827

DECATUR

2

French Quarter

Woldenberg Riverfront Park

Mississippi River

Ursuline Convent

MOONWALK

Natchez Steamboat Gray Line Tour Departures

2

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Jackson Brewery

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Gallier House

Madame John's Legacy

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ROYAL Vieux Carré Police Station

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700

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The French Quarter is one of the nation’s oldest residential communities.

Please treat this historic neighborhood with respect.

6

10

11

FREE 7

GIFT* WITH A $35 ROCK SHOP PURCHASE

125 BOURBON ST. | +1 504.529.5617

#HardRockCafe | hardrock.com ©2019 HARD ROCK INTERNATIONAL (USA), INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Expires 12/31/19 * terms and conditions apply

19-HRCSE-1546 WHERE MAGAZINE.indd 1 3/7/2019 11:16:33 AM

BELOW SEA LEVEL 4124 Tchoupitoulas St. New Orleans, LA 70115 www.PortOrleans.com @portorleansbrewingco.com

CRAFT BEER

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NEW ORLEANS Maps

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BC B on Canal, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 K CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F3 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 1 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5 EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 2 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 3 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 4 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 5 MC Marriott at the Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NC New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 NO NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 St OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 ia n e Av OR vOmni e Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 Sp ch lin A Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 Ro FrankOO t S PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 6 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 RF Royal Frenchman, 400 Esplanade Ave., 619-9660 J4 7 Street Direction RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 French Quarter RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 Jazzy Passes SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 1 day - $3 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 3 day - $9 8 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 31 day - 55 WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 Ride RTA buses and streetcars as WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 much as you’d like.

WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 K WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

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Transit Routes

Hotel

Riverfront - $1.25 St. Charles - $1.25 Magazine - $1.25 Canal St - $1.25 Loyola - $1.25 Rampart - $1.25

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THE GUIDE

C St

MM



WHERE NEXT THROUGH YOUR LENS Snap a great moment and tag it on Instagram with #wheretraveler for a chance to appear in an upcoming issue.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:

You'll find WhereTraveler® in cities across the U.S. and around the world, including the four shown here.

ST. LOUIS, Missouri DALLAS-FORT WORTH, Texas

ORLANDO, Florida TAMPA, Florida

62

W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

AUGUST 2019

 CLOCKWISE, FROM LEFT: ©LANE V. ERICKSON/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; ©ISAAC ARJONILLA; ©ROSTISLAV KRALIK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; ©ISRAEL PABON/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

#WHERETRAVELER

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©MYTH GALLERY

PARTING SHOT

Eye Spyed “Metamorphosis,” by bead artist Betsy Youngquist, whose intricate works are showcased at the Myth Gallery (p. 42).

64

W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

AUGUST 2019

Double Plantation Tour OAK ALLEY

LAURA

Three Unique Stories of Plantation Life

Choose a TWO plantation combination Whitney & Laura | Laura & Oak Alley | Whitney & Oak Alley ENJOY OUR OTHER TOURS: SUPER CITY • SWAMP • AIRBOAT • KATRINA PLANTATION/BRUNCH/SWAMP • COCKTAIL GARDEN DISTRICT • FRENCH QUARTER CEMETERY & VOODOO • GHOSTS & SPIRITS • GROUPS • SEASONAL

Locally owned & touring New Orleans since 1924!

504-569-1401 | 800-233-2628 | GrayLineNewOrleans.com

steamboat

Last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River Three cruises a day from the French Quarter Dinner Jazz Cruise, Sunday Brunch & more Calliope Concerts & Engine Room Visits Inside and outside seating Live Jazz on all cruises 504-569-1401 • SteamboatNatchez.com