Where Magazine New Orleans Apr 2019

T R AV E L E R S K N O W W H E R E â„¢

NEW ORLEANS APR 2019

GET GOING!

DIVE ON IN

A MONTH FULL OF HIGH NOTES

A stroll along historic Bayou Road

NOLA chefs are flexing their mussels

Jazzfest & French Quarter Festival

Music-minded museum exhibits

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To Fest! or Not to Fest!

INDY EYEWEAR LIKE NO WHERE ELSE.

CONTENTS

16 On the way to Jazzfest, explore historic Bayou Road.

APR 2019

ESSENTIALS Chairman’s Letter 8 Ask the Expert 12 Calendar 14 Maps 59 Where Next 62 Parting Shot 64

MuseumQuality Music

20

Seven great exhibits to groove on between this month’s fests.

Musseled-Up Menus

21 ON THE

Come out of your shell, and dive into a wide variety of mussel dishes.

One Block

COVER

22

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A brass band performs on Bourbon Street. ©ISAAC ARJONILLA

Just off of St. Charles Avenue, Freret Street is packed with cool shops, clubs and restaurants.

(FROM TOP) ©DOUG BRANTLEY; ©NEWORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART; ©EMERIL’S; ©SHAWN FINK

THE GUIDE Dining 25 Shopping 33 Attractions 46 Entertainment 50 Nightlife 51

wheretraveler.com

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A

LETTER FROM THE CHAIRMAN TRAVELERS KNOW WHERE ™

W

elcome to the fi rst issue of WhereTraveler magazine, which has been in the making for 83 years. Where magazine, our flagship publication, has been the traveler’s friend since it was first published in 1936. It’s been a great ride but, as with any voyage, one can’t stay in the same place.

With the April 2019 issue, we embark on an exciting new adventure as Where takes on a new look and a new name. Like its predecessor, WhereTraveler magazine continues our tradition of offering the best insider information about the local market but with a dynamic new design that speaks to today’s traveler.

Even the most experienced traveler knows that having a local friend with inside knowledge of a destination makes a trip all the more special, someone who not only knows the essential, not-tobe-missed sights but also the city’s hidden treasures. For millions of travelers each year, that friend is WhereTraveler magazine, providing valuable advice through print and digital products that cover more than 100 cities, making WhereTraveler the world’s premier travel brand.

The new look is sleek and modern, as represented by the new logo, and the compact size makes the magazine conveniently portable. Inside is the same great content we have always provided but in a more concise model, packed with useful information in a fun and visually dramatic format.

We show you the best places to shop and dine, the landmarks and attractions not to be missed. We guide you to experiences that will help you make the most of your visit. Our redesigned

Guide section now includes up to 50 percent more listings.

Once you have explored the city you are in, WhereTraveler will help you prepare for your next trip. See our new Where Next page, featuring photos from markets around the nation where you will also find WhereTraveler magazine. Then visit our website, wheretraveler. com, which offers travel information on 100 destinations around the world.

I hope you enjoy this debut issue of WhereTraveler magazine and that you will look for it at your next destination.

WILLIAM S. MORRIS III Chairman

ACROSS THE WORLD WhereTraveler® is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at www.wheretraveler.com.

UNITED STATES Atlanta, Boston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Gold Coast, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/ Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

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APRIL 2019

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MVP | NEW ORLEANS 324 Chartres St, 2nd fl., New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 504.522.6468 MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS

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William S. Morris IV



WhereTraveler® magazine is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, www.morrismedianetwork.com. Where magazine and the logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. Where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited.

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APRIL 2019

Q: THE NEW ORLEANS WINE AND FOOD EXPERIENCE MOVES TO APRIL THIS YEAR. NAME THREE RESTAURANTS TO SEEK OUT. A: Gris-Gris (p. 31) is

fantastic and really fun; you can sit at the bar and watch the chefs in the kitchen. Their fried green tomatoes are exceptionally good, and the chicken and dumplings just melt in your mouth. Saba (p. 33), which is Alon Shaya’s new restaurant; he creates great food wherever he goes. Also Seaworthy (p. 27); guests always come back raving about it.

Q: WHERE WOULD YOU SEND VISITORS IN SEARCH OF MUSIC WITH THEIR MEAL? A: Arnaud’s Jazz Bistro

room (p. 28).

Q: NAME THE CITY’S MOST UNSUNG MUSIC CLUBS. A: I love Snug Harbor (p.

EXPERT TIP

Get to Jazzfest early to make sure you have good seating, and wear sunscreen— lots of it.

52), especially on a Friday night, when Ellis Marsalis plays; he’s phenomenal.

Also d.b.a. (p. 52), it’s my favorite spot; it’s more the atmosphere than who is playing.

Q: THE NEW ORLEANS JAZZ & HERITAGE FESTIVAL TURNS 50 YEARS THIS YEAR. WHEN WAS YOUR FIRST JAZZFEST? A: Oh, gosh—26 years

ago. I went to see Patti LaBelle, who was good, but Fats Domino came on before her and he was amazing. I knew his music, but didn’t realize how well he played piano.

He just zinged; it was so impressive.

Q: WHY DO YOU THINK JAZZFEST REMAINS SO POPULAR? A: Because it’s so much

of everything. It’s not just big-name music acts, there are a lot of little names in between, and there are so many venues you don’t have to stay one place all day long.

That’s what makes it so much fun. And the food is just so good; it’s better than going to some of the restaurants.

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Reserve your seat NOW! • Hotel Pick Up & Drop off

(504) 329-2489 www.VIPcitytours.com

A Working Louisiana Sugarcane Plantation

E xperience the rich history and see exhibits that will give you insight into life on an authentic sugarcane plantation.

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(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©DOUGLAS MASON/NEW ORLEANS JAZZ & HERITAGE FESTIVAL

DANNY ALFORD

CONCIERGE AT LE MERIDIEN HOTEL



I love Snug Harbor, especially when Ellis Marsalis plays; he’s phenomenal

Tour Times 7 Days a enient Wee k!

Conv Noon, 3:00 pm 0 0 9: am, ARTER CEMET H QU ERIE C N S T C I FRE TR KATR S I D I N N E A AFTER RD MAT GA E H TREM LAKE P O K N TCHA PAR RTR CITY AIN

W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

THE

CALENDAR

JAZZFEST HITS 50 APRIL 25-28

2019

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©DOUGLAS MASON/NEW ORLEANS JAZZ & HERITAGE FESTIVAL

APRIL

What began at Armstrong Park with Mahalia Jackson, Duke Ellington and Fats Domino performing for 350 locals now draws hundreds of thousands from around the globe to the Fair Grounds each April. In celebration of its mid-century milestone, this year the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival extends to eight jam-packed days and pulls out the big guns—Katy Perry, the Rolling Stones, Diana Ross—along with 600-plus additional acts. www.nojazzfest.com

NEW ORLEANS JAZZ & HERITAGE FESTIVAL

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APRIL 2019

 WHAT’S HAPPENING

THE LINEUP

NOLA CRAWFISH FEST

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(LEFT) ©SHAWN FINK; (RIGHT) ©ROBERT BANKS

10 GREAT THINGS THIS MONTH Wednesday at the Square April 3-24 Can’t make this month’s music fests? Hit this free, weekly concert series at Lafayette Square. www.ylcnola.org

New Orleans Wine and Food Experience April 3-7 Grab a glass and set off on the Royal Street Stroll or load up on blue-ribbon dishes at the Grand Tastings. www.nowfe.com Bill Maher April 6 The “Politically Incorrect” button-pusher pulls into the Saenger Theatre.

800.745.3000 Willie Nelson & Family April 9 At 85, the country music legend proves he’s still smokin’ at the new Fillmore New Orleans.

504.881.1555

French Quarter Fest April 11-14 What’s not to love about 1,700-plus musicians performing for free on 23 stages? www.fqfi.org David Sedaris April 12 The award-winning humorist/author (“Naked,” “Me Talk Pretty One Day”) leaves ’em laughing at the Orpheum. 504.274.4870 Easter Parades April 21 Bunny-hop between the French Quarter Easter Parade (10:30 am), Chris Owens’ Easter Parade (1 pm) and the Gay Easter Parade (4:30pm).

W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M / N E W- O R L E A N S / L O C A L - E V E N T S

DAVID SEDARIS

Zurich Classic April 22-28 Golf greats team up and tee off at TPC Louisiana. www.zurichgolfclassic.com Trombone Shorty Threauxdown April 27 Usher, Nick Jonas, Andra Day, Dierks Bentley, Dr. John: You never know who is going to jump on stage during this annual hoedown at the Saenger. www.saengernola.com.

NOLA Crawfish Fest April 29-May 1 Hungry for more? Fill up on mudbugs and music at Central City BBQ. www.nolacrawfishfest.com

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NEW ORLEANS

WHERE NOW

The Road to Jazzfest Get off the beaten path and explore Bayou Road

By Nora McGunnigle

W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

ESPLANADE AVENUE AT BAYOU ROAD

Where Now

A

ny seasoned Jazzfest attendee knows that some of the best music you’ll hear all day is en route to the Fair Grounds, with young brass bands blaring away on front porches. The path to Jazzfest also holds other great finds worth seeking out on the way. Take a detour along the oldest passageway in New Orleans—Bayou Road.

Bayou Road was originally used for more than 4,000 years by Native Americans, who subsequently introduced French settlers to the route 300 years ago, as a way to get from Bayou St. John to the banks of the Mississippi River, where the French Quarter now LEFT: A HISTORIC MARKER ALONG BAYOU ST. JOHN. BELOW: ARTIST BRANDAN ODUMS’ MASSIVE MURAL ON THE SIDE OF THE COMMUNITY



(TOP) ©ZACK SMITH/NEWORLEANS.COM; (BOTTOM) ©DOUG BRANTLEY; (OPENING SPREAD) ©ISAAC ARJONILLA

BOOK CENTER.

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(TOP AND CENTER) ©DOUG BRANTLEY; (BOTTOM) ©SHAWN FINK 

stands. Cutting through the Tremé, Seventh Ward, Bayou St. John and Fair Grounds neighborhoods, it’s the reason why New Orleans was settled where it was.

Bayou Road has served as the central artery for New Orleans even before there was a New Orleans, and is now a colorful corridor for an often-overlooked but culturally rich area just a stone’s throw from the Jazzfest revelry.

Right before Bayou Road splits off from Esplanade Avenue is the Degas House, a historic home and B&B where French impressionist Edgar Degas lived for a short time.

The neighboring le Musee de f.p.c. is a carefully curated museum chronicling the lives of New Orleans’ free people of color and the work of both local and national black community organizations throughout the decades; visits are by appointment only.

Cross over to Bayou Road and turn left, passing the Benachi House, a wedding and events space, the art incubator Joan Mitchell Center and Club Caribbean, a reggae nightspot. Check out the unique architecture of the Pagoda Café, housed in a former Chinese dry cleaner; grab a cup of coffee or a snack while you’re there.

The stretch of Bayou Road that intersects with Broad Street counts a variety of black-owned and Afro-Caribbean businesses, restaurants and nightclubs. The Community Book Center, one of the oldest businesses in the area, in operation for 35 years, serves not only as a bookstore, but also as a local gathering ground and an incubator for neighborhood writers.

On the Center’s exterior wall, facing striking St. Rose de Lima church, is a mural depicting a child reaching for a book by artist Brandan Odums, who created 2017’s Jazzfest/Congo Square poster of Jon Batiste. Soaring in the middle of Bayou Road shops, the church was recently converted into the new home of the Southern Rep Theatre.

Next door to the Center is Material Life, a boutique that offers black- and African-centric books, clothing, jewelry and art, as well as great conversation. Connected to Material Life is February, a small gallery largely focused on photography.

The cash-only Domino Sound Record Shack boasts the largest reggae selection in the South, and has an extensive collection of punk, blues, soul, hip-hop and other genres.

Just around the corner on Broad, tucked into a small strip mall, is the food-themed Kitchen Witch bookstore, offering tomes on cooking, eating and drinking.

Hungry? There’s authentic Caribbean cuisine at Coco Hut (which also has vegetarian and vegan options), cupcakes and pie shots at CupCake Fairies, gumbo and char-grilled oysters at Half Shell on the Bayou, smothered tater tots and bacon-wrapped dates at Pirogues or fried chicken to go at McHardy’s Chicken & Fixin’.

When evening rolls around and the Fair Grounds are clearing out, swing by Whiskey & Sticks to enjoy a post-fest cocktail or cigar. It’s a welcoming setting with space inside for conversing and a large backyard for congregating.

ABOVE: SPEND AN HOUR RUMMAGING THE BINS AT DOMINO SOUND RECORD SHACK. BELOW, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: SWEET TREATS FROM CUPCAKE FAIRIES; A TASTE OF WHAT’S COOKING AT KITCHEN WITCH; PAGODA CAFÉ

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NEW ORLEANS

WHERE NOW

Museum-Quality Music

M

usic isn’t just in the air this month; it’s also on the walls at area museums. Beginning April 25, the New Orleans Museum of Art mounts Timothy Duffy: Blue Muse, which throws the spotlight on unsung Southern musicians who often live in obscurity, despite having written famous songs for others.

Duffy is founder and executive director of the Music Maker Relief Foundation, a nonprofit that supports aging gospel and blues artists, many of whom he photographed using a wet-plate collodion process, dating to the 1860s. Continuing through July, the exhibit features 30 of Duffy’s modern-day tintypes, a number of which you’ll see larger versions of erected on buildings throughout the city. www.noma.org

Historic New Orleans Collection

The free New Orleans Medley: Sounds of the City exhibit at the Williams Research Center charts the city’s musical evolution, from early opera to today. Highlights include French Opera House tickets, Jelly Roll Morton’s handwritten sheet music and Sidney Bechet’s clarinet. www.hnoc.org

New Orleans Jazz Museum at the Old U.S. Mint Five music-minded exhibits under one roof: Women of Note chronicles female jazz greats; A Life Half-Fast salutes clarinetist Pete Fountain; Me Got Fiyo celebrates the centennial of the birth of Henry Roland Boyd, aka Professor Longhair; Drumsville! examines the role of percussion and rhythm; 300 Years of Music in New Orleans provides a sweeping overview of local music, from jazz to hip-hop. On April 24 the museum screens films from the first Jazzfest in 1970. www.nolajazzmuseum.org

FROM TOP: “BLUE MUSE,” “NEW ORLEANS MEDLEY” AND “ME GOT FIYO”

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APRIL 2019

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“‘Blue Muse’ throws the spotlight on unsung Southern musicians who often live in obscurity.”

(TOP) ©NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART; (CENTER) ©HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION; (BOTTOM) ©LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUM

W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

MUSSELEDUP MENUS L

ong ago, Louisianans fed on all sorts of shellfish, including indigenous mussels. Though they’re no longer part of our regional cuisine, New England’s farm-raised mussels are a very popular menu item and readily available. BY LORIN GAUDIN

AVO Classically paired with chorizo, this mussel and linguine dish checks all boxes for flavor and texture: smooth, briny, spiced, tart (green tomatoes) and crunchy (breadcrumbs). www.restaurantavo.com

BACCHANAL A big bowl of plump mussels, broth scattered with torn herbs fresh from the garden, grilled country bread and great wine…sigh. Perfection. www.bacchanalwine.com

EMERIL’S Emeril’s beautiful appetizer portion of tender mussels with coconut, curry, crispy

rice and tuna meatballs necessitates hands, fork and spoon—the best of all worlds. www.emerils.com

FHARMACY Easily shareable or great for a big appetite, these Asian-style mussels swim in a creamy, heavily scented lemongrass broth, topped with really crispy fries. www.fharmacyrestaurant.com

PATOIS One of the early adopters to modernize moules frites with broth and meat variations. No matter what combination, trust chef Jonathan Lomonaco, and demand a spoon for superior sipping and dipping frites or grilled Bellgarde bread. www.patoisnola.com

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( CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT): ©BACCHANAL; ©EMERIL’S; ©AVO; ©FHARMACY

Moules frites (mussels and fries) appear on loads of local menus as both appetizer and entrée. It’s a dish that begs to be eaten by hand, but sure, grab that little fork if you must, though consider using an empty shell to pinch, pluck and pop mussels and broth into your mouth; it’s the deliciously messy, old-school way.

All around the city creative chefs tweak

cooking style, broth and flavors for divine variations.

Go on, try them all.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: BACCHANAL, EMERIL’S, AVO AND FHARMACY

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F O R M O R E T H I N G S T O O N F R E R E T S T R E E T, V I S I T W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

ONE BLOCK FIND THE BEST ON

FRERET STREET (BETWEEN NAPOLEON AND JEFFERSON)

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: BAR FRANCES, FRERET BEER ROOM AND BERLIN-BASED ARTIST MTO’S GASA GASA

EAT

SHOP

SEE

PLAY

No matter what you’re looking for—French café (Bar Frances), Neapolitan pizza and salum (Ancora) or a fat fried chicken sandwich (Good Bird)—Freret Street has a full table, and then some, of dining options.

Grab a to-go coffee from Mojo, then wander through chic clothes and accessories stores, a cool comic shop and some local art. This stretch of Freret is a mecca for it all.  Mojo

Freret is great for people-watching and general gawking. Scope out the cool murals, the kitten cuteness at Zeus’ Place, stroll through Sailor’s Cross, then walk a block more to one of the city’s oldest hardware stores.

Set off on a beer flight at Freret Beer Room before catching a show at Gasa Gasa, which rocks with an ever-changing calendar of artists. The Freret Street Festival (April 6) features dozens of bands, along with food and craft vendors.

4700 Freret St., 504.875.2243, www.mojocoffeehouse.com

 Zeus’ Place

 Freret Beer Room

4601 Freret St., 504.304.4718, www.zeusplace.com

5018 Freret St., 504.298.7468, www.freretbeerroom.com

 Sailor’s Cross Tattoo & Gallery

 Gasa Gasa

 Crescent City Comics 4916 Freret St., 504.891.3796, www.crescentcitycomics.com

5010 Freret St., 504.510.3035, www.sailorscross.com

 Axiom Art Gallery

 Freret Hardware

4613 Freret St., 504.230.9240

5109 Freret St., 504.899.0746, www.frerethardware.com

4525 Freret St., 504.371.5043, www.barfrances.com

 Ancora 4508 Freret St., 504.324.1636, www.ancorapizza.com

 Good Bird 5031 Freret St., 504.516.2307, www.goodbirdnola.com

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 Babe New Orleans 5007 Freret St., 504.265.0432, www.babeneworleans.com

4920 Freret St., 504.338.3567, www.gasagasa.com

 Freret Street Festival www.freretstreetfestival.org



 Bar Frances

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) ©BAR FRANCES; ©FRERET BEER ROOM; ©SHAWN FINK

MURAL

APRIL 2019

THE

GUIDE OUR

THE ART OF EATING

The standard still life is given fresh perspective through the lens of photographer Nathan Myhrvold at the Modernist Cuisine Gallery (p. 34).

FAVORITES

LOOK FOR our featured advertisers throughout the Guide.



©MODERNIST CUISINE GALLERY

Dining

DINING Central Business/ Warehouse District THE AMERICAN SECTOR American A nostalgic homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as Victory Garden salads and Frito pie. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6; www.ww2eats.com BRIQUETTE Seafood Contemporary coastal is the catch at this sprawling space. Follow the caramalized sea scallops with lump crab bisque, then dive into Louisiana redfish with crawfish relish.

D (nightly). 701 S. Peters St., 504.302.7496. Map 3, C6; www.briquette-nola.com

COCHON Louisiana Many resta urants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on simple standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. L, D (daily).

930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; www.cochonrestaurant.com COMPANY BURGER American Adam Biderman’s award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320.

Map 1, D3; www.thecompany burger.com COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean A native of St. Lucia, chef Nina Compton’s

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THE GUIDE

CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks Forget the standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats.

D (nightly). 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5; www.chophousenola.com

island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes with pineapple tartar sauce and curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi. L, (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6; www.comperelapin.com EMERIL’S Louisiana Emeril Lagasse’s flagship sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum and more. L (M-F), D (nightly). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; www.emerils.com

D IN IN G

JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican Squash blossom tacos, pig ear chilaquiles, octopus toastadas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare.

Celebrity chef Aarón Sánchez’s hot spot puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. L, D (daily). 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4; www.johnnysanchez restaurant.com JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian At this casual Ace Hotel eatery snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. B (M-F); L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5; www.josephineestelle.com MAYPOP Vietnamese Asian-fusion food in a bright, open space. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345.Map 3, B4 ; www.maypoprestaurant.com MERIL International Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef ’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. L, D (daily).

424 Girod St., 504.526.3745.

Map 3, C6; www.emerils.com

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W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

Continuing our Culinary Legacy Join us for Lunch, Dinner and Sunday Jazz Brunch Be sure to check out our Extensive Wine Cellar

504-581-4422 | www.antoines.com 713 Rue Saint Louis New Orleans, LA 70130

APRIL 2019

Dining

PÊCHE Seafood The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better.

From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong.

L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; www.pecherestaurant.com RED GRAVY Italian This cozy brunch bistro offers traditional Italian dishes and not-so-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Open W-M. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5; www.redgravycafe.com SEAWORTHY Seafood This offshoot of New York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, East and West coasts and other sustainably sourced seafood.

D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071.

Map 3, C5; www.seaworthy nola.com

CENTRAL CITY BBQ Barbecue Stellar barbecue and out-of-the-norm sides make this sprawling smokehouse a popular destination. L, D (daily). 1201 S. Rampart St., 504.558.4276. Map 1, D3; www.centralcitybbq.com MAÎS AREPAS Latin An upscale CreoleColombian restaurant that puts overstuffed, filled corn pockets (arepas) front and center. L (TuSa), D (Tu-Su). 1200 Carondelet St., 504.523.6247. Map 3, A5 TOUPS SOUTH Southern Chef Isaac Toups creates museum-quality cuisine at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery. Biscuits with crab fat butter, goat tamales and fried black-eyed pea salad offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. L, D (M, W-Sa); Br (Su).

1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3; www.toupssouth.com

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THE GUIDE

Central City

French Quarter ANTOINE’S Creole Established in 1840, Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure with rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4; www.antoines.com ARNAUD’S Creole In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of the many famous dishes. D (daily); jazz brunch (Su).

813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433.

Map 3, F4; www.arnauds.com

D IN IN G

BAYONA American Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3; www.bayona.com BOURBON HOUSE Seafood A standout addition to Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp.

B, L, D (daily). 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4; www.bourbonhouse.com BRENNAN’S Creole Under the helm of executive chef Slade Rushing, this legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4; www.brennansneworleans.com CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun classics.

B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon

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St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530.

Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554 Map 3, G5; www.cafebeignet.com CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee No visit to the Crescent City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans.

Open 24h (daily). 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; www.cafedumonde.com CANE & TABLE Cuban This rum-centric restaurant provides a taste of the city’s Caribbean connection.

Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5; www.caneandtablenola.com CENTRAL GROCERY Deli This Italian deli-grocery is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. L (daily). 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5; www.centralgrocery.com COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu of Creole and Cajun cuisine. Br, D (daily). 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4; www.courtoftwosisters.com DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks An upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces—try the barbecued rib-eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters.

D (nightly). 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4; www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com GALATOIRE’S Creole Since 1905, Galatoire’s has been a gravity center of New Orleans. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere,

APRIL 2019

HARD ROCK CAFÉ American This popular chain, filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings.

L, D (daily). 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4; www.hardrockcafe.com ITALIAN BARREL Italian The focus here is on fine, Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso buco-topped polenta and top-notch tiramisu.

L, D (daily). 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5; www.theitalianbarrel.com

K-PAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana Chef-personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience.

His restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, such as bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders.

D (M-Sa). 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530.Map 3, F4; www.kpauls.com KILLER POBOYS Contemporary This tiny holein-the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw. B, L, D (W-M).

219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731.

Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745.Map 3, F4; www.killerpoboys.com KRYSTAL American Since 1932 Krystal has been satisfying big appe-

LONGWAY TAVERN Eclectic A proper gastropub with a comfy chic interior, solid familiar cocktails and smart, sexy food. The pork belly home fries, fried calamari and hefty steak sandwiches will make you linger. $ L (F-Su), D (nightly).

719 Toulouse St., 504.962.9696.

Map 3, G4; www.longway tavern.com MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Musttries include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce. L (M-Sa), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Su).

201 Royal St., 504.523.2078.

Map 3, E4; www.mrbsbistro.com NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas.

L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; www. napoleonhouse.com NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, char-grilled oysters and a raw bar. L, D (daily).

510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632.

Map 3, G5 ; www.neworleans creolecookery.com OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana At former Saint Deuce McAllister’s eatery, diners score New Orleans classics (such as soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle.

B, L, D (daily). 132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4; www.olesaint.com PALACE CAFÉ Creole Part of the Brennan restaurant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal

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THE GUIDE

JUSTINE French Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is both classic and contemporary in design, but the menu is fullon French: steak tartar, tuna Niçoise salad, moules frites. L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su).

225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533.

Map 3, E4; www.justinenola.com

tites with its small, square burgers. 24h (daily). 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4; www.krystal.com

Dining

with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. L, D (Tu-Su).

209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021.

Map 3, E4; www.galatoires.com

Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, and andouille-crusted Gulf fish.

B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4; www.palacecafe.com RED FISH GRILL Seafood Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, double-chocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. L, D (daily).

115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200.

Map 3, E4; www.redfishgrill.com

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RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana Chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue,. The rooms are gorgeously appointed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. L (F), D (nightly); Br (Su). 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4; www.revolutionnola.com TABLEAU Creole Housed in historic Le Petit Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes. L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (daily).

616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463.

Map 3, G4; www.tableaufrench quarter.com

Garden District/ Lower Garden District COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole This beloved turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers. Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere.

L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; www.commanderspalace.com COQUETTE French What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and

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APRIL 2019

Contemporary Coastal Cuisine 701 S. Peters St. 504-302-7496 www.briquette-nola.com Now Serving Lunch

GRIS-GRIS Louisiana Chef Eric Cook (American Sector, Commander’s Palace) now has a place of his own, where he whips up elevated New Orleans standards, such as oyster-and-caviar po’ boys and seafood-stuffed crab. L, D (daily). 1800 Magazine St., 504.272.0241. Map 3, D4; www.grisgrisnola.com TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, chicken fried steak. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. L (W-M).

739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428.

Map 1, D4; www.turkeyandthe wolf.com

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a restaurant. Dive into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L, D (daily).

600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111.

Map 1, E3; www.bacchanal wine.com BYWATER AMERICAN BISTRO American The menu at this casual neighborhood spot focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. Farro risotto with mushrooms and minted breadcrumbs, fried oysters with oyster gravy; try the rabbit curry. D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su).

2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827.

Map 1, E3; www.bywater americanbistro.com

Enjoy an afternoon drink on our courtyard 510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana Known for its swimming pool, this Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crabmeat beig-

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THE GUIDE

Book reservations through Open Table.

Dining

refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have fried chicken. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4; www.coquettenola.com

nets, clams and chorizo), salads or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; www. thecountryclubneworleans.com NOLA CANTINA Mexican Tacos, tacos and more tacos, filled with everything from fried oysters to cauliflower. Other highlights include Ecuadorian-style shrimp ceviche and top-shelf margaritas.

D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 437 Esplanade Ave., 504.266.2848.

Map 3, J5; www.nolacantina.com ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic Dating to 1875, this marketplace recently received a makeover while retaining its historic character. The stunning space features 11 food vendors, along with a bar. L, D (daily).

2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813.Map 1, E3; www.strochmarket.com

Mid-City

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BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts.

If the barbecued pork egg rolls make a menu appearance, get them. L, D, (Tu-Su). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583.

Map 1, D3; www.blueoakbbq.com PAGODA CAFÉ Contemporary This outdoor eatery is known for its locally roasted coffee and breakfast tacos. B, L (Tu-F); Br (SaSu). 1430 N. Dorgenois St., 504.644.4178. Map 1, E2; www.pagodacafe.net PIECE OF MEAT Deli The menu at this petit butcher shop and restaurant is loaded with tempting options: cheese-and-boudin eggrolls, brisket sandwiches, tender ribs.

L (Th-Tu), D (Th-Sa); Br (Sa-Su).

3301 Bienville St., 504.372.2289.

Map 1, D3; www.pieceofmeat butcher.com RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana Veteran restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking sce-

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nic City Park. L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000.Map 1, D2; www.ralphsonthepark.com 1000 FIGS Mediterranean Classic falafel sandwiches and plates are joined by seared squid salads, baba ghanouj, lamb and more. L, D (Tu-Sa). 3141 Ponce de Leon St., 504.301.0848.

Map 1, D2; www.1000figs.com

Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

Uptown AVO Italian Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragout. D (M-Sa); Br (Sa-Su) 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4; www.restaurantavo.com BOUCHERIE Southern Looking for a place where you can get in and out for under $20? Chef/owner Nathanial Zimet’s culinary creations are as delicious as their prices. L (Tu-Sa); D (MSa); Br (Su). 8115 Jeannette St., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3; www.boucherie-nola.com CAVAN Southern This Victorian home’s “beautiful deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Nathan Richard’s modern Southern cuisine. Start with the boudin tater tots before devouring the chicken fried rabbit. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655.

Map 1, D4; www.cavannola.com PASCAL’S MANALE Italian A New Orleans landmark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4; www.pascalsmanale.com

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

Non-Profit Touring Organization Dedicated to Cemetery Preservation, Promotion, Restoration & Education.

SAVE $3 on a cemetery tour!

Mention code: WHERE419 when you reserve. Call 504-525-3377 or visit www.saveourcemeteries.org

PATOIS Louisiana Aaron Burgau has earned all of the praise heaped on him in recent years as a chef “to watch.” Patois, combines

APRIL 2019

Savor the aromas of TABASCO® on a factory tour.

Savor the aromas of TABASCO® on a factory tour.

Shopping

Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a low-key neighborhood bar scene. L (F), D (W-Sa); Br (Su). 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441. Map 1, D4; www.patoisnola.com SABA Mediterranean Chef Alon Shaya provides a taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as octopus with shawarma spices. L (W-F), D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine St., 504.324.7770. Map 3, D4; www.eatwithsaba.com

SHOPPING Feast on the Southern flavors of our new cafeteria-style restaurant, 1868!

Experience

Open Mon-Sun, 9am-4pm | www.TABASCO.com or 1-800-634-9599 ©2016. The TABASCO® marks, bottle, and label designs are registered trademarks and servicemarks exclusively of McIlhenny Company, Avery Island, LA 70513.

Art Galleries & Antiques A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY The city’s most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4; www.agallery.com ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger and England’s late Princess Margaret.

3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4; www.alexbeardstudio.com ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries.

927 Royal St., 504.304.0849.

Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4; www.antieaugallery.com ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’ leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999.

Map 3, C5; www.arthurroger gallery.com

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THE GUIDE

AVERY ISLAND

LOUISIANA

Come to Avery Island for an experience that will delight your senses!

ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for undiscovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works— oil paintings, photography, pottery, blown glass, masks— by dozens of regional artists.

Handmade jewelry and beads are also offered. 85 French Market Place, 504.561.0046.

Map 3, I5; www.artistsmarket nola.com

504.513.8312.Map 3, H4; www.gallerytwonola.com

BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.522.9485.

Map 3, F4; www.bevolo.com

LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings, sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassworks are among the media exhibited here. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6; www.lemieuxgalleries.com

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CALLAN CONTEMPORARY This chic gallery offers contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518.

Map 3, C6; www.callancontem porary.com CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; www.craigtracy.com FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY Award-winning photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others.

910 Royal St., 504.388.7601.

Map 3, H4; www.frankrelle.com GALLERY 2 Part animal/part human, Betsy Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also showcases Ann Marie Cianciolo’s whimsical sculptural jewelry. 831 Royal St.,

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JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This gallery is home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and others.

Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured.

400A Julia St., 504.522.5471.

Map 3, C6; www.jonathanferrara gallery.com

LUCULLUS An antique shop specializing in objects for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware and bistro equipment are among the offerings. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4; www.lucullusantiques.com M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660.

Map 3, G4; www.rauantiques.com

Bungalow’s

UPCYCLED DESIGNER STADIUM BAGS

(504) 522-9222 719 Royal St New Orleans LA 70116 © Copyright 2017-Ronaldo Designer Jewelry, Inc-All rights reserved

MARTINE CHAISSON GALLERY Contemporary is the key word here, from the sleek space itself to the cutting-edge creations on its walls. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. Map 3, C5; www. martinechaissongallery.com MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable.

You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes.

617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4; www.michalopoulos.com MODERNIST CUISINE GALLERY Renowned photographer Nathan Myhrvold focuses on

WWW.NOLABOARDS.COM WE SHIP!

504-827-1544 APRIL 2019

Shopping

the science of cooking and cutting-edge culinary techniques.

305 Royal St., 504.571.5157.

Map 3, F4; www.modernist cuisinegallery.com OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space spotlights local and international artists working in a wide range of media. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6; www.octaviaartgallery.com RED TRUCK GALLERY “Beautiful, unexpected art” by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. 940 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4; www.redtruckgallery.com RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark is devoted to the works of the late great “Blue Dog” master, George Rodrigue. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; www.georgerodrigue.com

SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERY Step into this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.”

4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4; www.ashleylongshore.com STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’ preeminent exhibition space for AfricanAmerican artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker and Charly Palmer, among others. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050.

Map 3, D4; www.stellajones gallery.com STUDIO BE Brandan Odums’ graffiti-style murals are the perfect fit for this massive warehouse space.

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THE GUIDE

ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO Located in historic Algiers Point in a renovated art deco building, this gallery features works by owner Mark Rosenbaum and others dealing in blown glass. 446 Vallette St., 504.366.3602. Map 3, G8; www.rosetreegallery.com

The evocative collection explores African-American life through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Sa, 2-8 pm.

2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231.

Map 1, E3; www.ephemeral eternal.ecom TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life.

3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; www.terranceosborne.com

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VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this hip shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Vintage sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and retro barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This gallery features fine works in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by Toulouse-Lautrec.

Contemporary Spanish impressionist Royo and Chilean minamalist Jose Basso complement the collection. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4; www.windsorfineart.com WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when there’s Wirthmore Antiques?

Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660. Map 1, D4; www.wirthmoreantiques.com

Books & Music FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction.

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A DV ERT IS MEN T

AROUND THE SQUARE EXPERIENCE THE CHARM OF THE HISTORIC FRENCH QUARTER

A

New Orleans premier destination for niche fragrance.

608 Rue Bienville New Orleans, LA 70130 MadameAucoinPerfume.com

B

C

D

E

C E

D

A B

624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940.

Map 3, G4; www. faulknerhousebooks.com KITCHEN WITCH New, used and vintage cookbooks are on the menu at this charming shop geared to foodies. 1452 Broad St., 504.528.8382. Map 1, D2; www.kwcookbooks.com LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Live performances on Saturdays.

421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; www.louisianamusicfactory.com

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SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music shop is big on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings. Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

Clothing BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes and accessories. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4; www.billyreid.com DIRTY COAST You won’t find your standard Bourbon Street T-shirts here.

Catering to locals and in-theknow visitors, Dirty Coast’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans.

713 Royal St., 504.324.6730.

Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745.Map 1, D4; www.dirtycoast.com H&M This Swedish-based retail chain is known around the globe for its fab fashions and hard-to-resist prices. Women’s, men’s and children’s clothing is featured, along with home accents.

418 N. Peters St., 855.466.7467.

Map 3, F5; www.hm.com

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Vintage Native American & Taxco Sterling 329 Royal Street New Orleans LA 70130 | 504-525-2262 | vintage329.com

APRIL 2019

TASC Originating in New Orleans, this popular line of active wear is now found nationwide.

The secret to its success is its eco-conscious fabric that blends bamboo with organic cotton and merino wool.

3913 Magazine St., 504.304.5030. Map 1, D4; www.tascperformance.com

SH O P P IN G

UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs, at drastically reduced prices. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4; www.shopual.com

Gifts & Collectibles BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and great gift items.

719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4; www.shopbungalows.com DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with his decorative pottery. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4; www.derbypottery.com HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERY This magical emporium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners, and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558.

Map 3, I5; www.hexwitch.com

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LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770.

Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5; www.littletoyshopnola.com

Sun–Thu 10 – 6, Fr i – S a t 10 – 9 • 617 B i e nv i l l e S t , N e w O r l e a n s

QUEORK Cork is the get at this sleek boutique, where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more.

838 Chartres St., 504.481.2585.

Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.388.6803.Map 1, D4; www.queork.com

MADAME AUCOIN PERFUME “The oldest perfumer in the South” lives on thanks to her great grand-nephew, who recently reopened shop in her former residence. Artisanal fragrance lines are featured.

608 Bienville St., 504.259.5975.

Map 3, F4; www.madame aucoinperfume.com NOLA BOARDS Add a dash of Crescent City flavor to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. 519 Wilkinson St., Suite 105, 504.435.1485. Map 3, G4; www.nolaboards.com

Jewelry ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget.

Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; www. artandeyesneworleansla.com FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron, St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254.

Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4; www. fleurdorleans.com KREWE Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett has garnered a national following with his locally designed line of glasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, H4; 1818 Magazine St., 504.342.2462.

Map 1, D4; www.krewe.com

APRIL 2019

Malls/ Major Retailers LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, Macy’s, Michael Kors, Microsoft and Sephora. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000.

Map 1, C2; www.lakeside shopping.com

SH O P P IN G

THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Located along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the nation’s first urban outlet center offers more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio.

500 Port of New Orleans Place, 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7; www.riverwalkneworleans.com THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, Saks Fifth Avenue, Tory Burch and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a movie theater. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5; www. theshopsatcanalplace.com

ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO AND GALLERY A short ferry ride across the Mississippi River to historic Algiers Point affords a rare opportunity to see masters of glassblowing working at their craft.

One of the largest glass galleries in the South. We have the largest selection of locallymade glass in New Orleans New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival 2nd WEEKEND ONLY! May 2nd-5th Contemporary Crafts Section

Or visit us online www.rosetreegallery.com 15% off website prices Enter: where19 at checkout 446 Vallette St., New Orleans, LA 70114 504.366.3602 • 888.ROSETREE (767.3873) Studio hours M-F 10:00-4:00; Saturdays call for appointment

Shoes JOHN FLUEVOG “Unique soles for unique souls.” This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers.

321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296.

Map 3, F4; www.fluevog.com GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop for professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers to dress shoes.

539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929.

Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2; www.orleansshoes.com

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APRIL 2019

NOLA FOOT CANDY Sweet treats for your feet.

Located along Jackson Square, this womens shoe shop stocks a wide variety of fun and fashionable styles. 510 St. Peter St., 504.252.9144. Map 3, G4; www.nolafootcandy.com SHOE BE DO Get a step ahead with cutting-edge women’s footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; www.shoebedousa.com

Special Services

AT T R A C T IO N S

PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICES This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with 40 related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415.

Map 1, D4; www.packratshipping.com PLANET BEACH This French Quarter spa provides a variety of services, from massages and facials to spray tanning. 301 Burgundy St., 504.525.8266. Map 3, F3; www.planetbeach.com TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these centrally located relaxation stations, which specialize in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7

ATTRACTIONS Attractions & Landmarks ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre green space is home to Congo Square, where jazz is believed to have first taken root.

N. Rampart and St. Ann streets.

Map 3, H2

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AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing hours.

1 Canal St., 504.581.4629.

Map 3, E6; www.auduboninstitute.org AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTARIUM The nation’s largest museum devoted to insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5; www.auduboninstitute.org AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36).

St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4; www.auduboninstitute.org AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the finest in the U.S. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing hours. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4; www.auduboninstitute.org CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities of the dead” act as windows on the past, offering insight into local history and customs. Many are located in high-crime areas.

Tours are available; do not venture in alone, day or night.

CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 Dreyfous Ave., 504.482.4888.

Map 1, D2; www.neworleans citypark.com FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market dates to pre-colonial days. Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1100 N. Peters St., 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5; www.frenchmarket.org

ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE

WHEN YOU SEE LES CLEFS D’OR KEYS. PLAY. EXPLORE. FEAST. ACCOMPLISH. No one knows more or can do more for you than Les Clefs d’Or Concierges. Search beyond the internet, and discover for yourself why anything is possible with Les Clefs d’Or Concierges.

APRIL 2019

JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo op. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5 LASER TAG OF METAIRIE Looking for high-energy, adrenaline-pumping family fun? This is the place. Between bouts of laser tag, go a few rounds on the bumper cars or try your hand at the 50-plus arcade games.

Open daily. 8855 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.469.7475.

Map 1, A2; www.ltag.org

Studios, the world’s largest float builder. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4 pm. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8; www.mardigrasworld.com MERCEDES-BENZ SUPERDOME The recently revamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2; www.mbsuperdome.com NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS This popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495.

Map 1, D3; www.seelos.org

NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This pocket park celebrates Bourbon Street’s musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site cafÊ and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and live music.

311 Bourbon St., 504.888.7608.

Map 3, F4; www.neworleans musicallegends.com NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & STORE Creole/Cajun cooking demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm.

524 St. Louis St., 504.208.5320.

Map 3, F5; www.nosoc.com SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Superdome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. 1501 Dave Dixon Drive, 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2 ; www.smoothiekingcenter.com ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Mass said daily.

615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square), 504.525.9585.

Map 3, G4; www.stlouis cathedral.org

Museums DEGAS HOUSE The home where Edgar Degas lived during his time in New Orleans is filled with prints of the French impressionist’s works.

Tours of the 1852 property are offered daily at 10:30 am and 1:45 pm, and by appointment.

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47

THE GUIDE

MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year long inside the workshops of Kern

NEW ORLEANS FAIR GROUNDS RACE COURSE In operation since 1872, this ranks as the nation’s third-oldest Thoroughbred race course, and serves as home base for the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival. 1751 Gentilly Blvd., 504.944.5515. Map 1, D2; www. fairgroundsracecourse.com

Attractions

HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino features 2,100 slots, 104 table games, live entertainment and a lavish buffet. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6; www.harrahsneworleans.com

2306 Esplanade Ave., 504.821.5009. Map 1, D2; www.degashouse.com

TION EXH I BI E E R F A IL 6 N G APR I N E P O

GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm. 1132 Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4; www.hgghh.org HERMANN-GRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past.

Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750. Map 3, F4; www.hgghh.org

AT T R A C T IO N S

HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove of local historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions and its Louisiana History Galleries, with permanent displays tracing the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; www.hnoc.org

520 Royal Street in the French Quarter www.hnoc.org • (504) 523-4662 #artofthecitynola

LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS The Louisiana State Museum operates five French Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbyère, the circa-1789 Madame John’s Legacy; the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. 504.568.6968. louisianastatemuseum.org NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits. The Victory Theater shows the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries.”

945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944.

Map 3, B6; ww.nationalww2 museum.org NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an exten-

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APRIL 2019

Attractions

sive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free outdoor sculpture garden.

Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm.

1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; www.noma.org OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open F-W, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; www.ogdenmuseum.org

Plantations

HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds.

Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877.303.1776 for details.

40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380. www.houmas house.com LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This 1804 structure is one of the oldest and largest complexes on River Road. Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages of documents detailing 200 years of Creole plantation life by the women, children and servants who lived there. Guided tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm.

2247 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. www.laura plantation.com

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THE GUIDE

DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley.

Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. Closed all major holidays.

13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095. www.destrehan plantation.org

NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White Castle of Louisiana” is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South.

Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. Overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended.

31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730. www.nottoway.com

EN T ER TA IN M EN T + N IG H T L IF E

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture-perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a spectacular sight.

“The Grande Dame of Great River Road” offers overnight accommodations in century-old cottages. Guided tours daily, 9 am-5 pm. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 888.279.9802. www.oakalleyplantation.org SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home, built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. Closed major holidays.

2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756. www.sanfrancisco plantation.org ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of 19th-century architect Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877. The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. 535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078. www.stjosephplantation.com WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the public for the first time in its 265-year history, this plantation explores slavery through moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300. www.whitneyplantation.com

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ENTERTAINMENT Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore Louisiana swamplands via guided, high-speed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. 504.689.2005 or 888.

GO.SWAMP. www.airboat adventures.com CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides intimate group tours of the French Quarter, Garden District and area cemeteries, along with Hurricane Katrina recovery excursions and private outings.

Tours average 2.5 to three hours; rates vary. 504.587.7115. www.celebrationtoursllc.com CITY SIGHTSEEING This double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; www. citysightseeingneworleans.com CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; www.creolequeen.com FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS These guided walking tours cover everything from ghost and vampire lore to cemeteries and music. All tours depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street); reservations required. 718 N. Rampart St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4; www.frenchquarterphantoms. com GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS Gray Line offers a variety of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, Steamboat and River Cruises—and all possible combinations. All depart from the Toulouse Street Wharf.

We’ve combined five tours into ONE EXCITING CITY TOUR FRENCH QUARTER • KATRINA RECOVERY • HITORIC CHEMETERIES GARDEN DISTRICT • NEW ORLEANS ARCHITECTURE

PRODUCTS & SERVICES: Notary Public

WE SHIP WINE!

Copies, Fax & Scan FedEx, DHL, & USPS Shipping

9 am – 6 pm; SAT 10 am – 4 pm; SUN Closed

3436 Magazine St. | 504.899.5415

National Shrine of Blessed Francis Xavier SEELOS In Historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church - Sanctuary of Prayer, Hope & Healing - Religious Articles - Free Tours 919 Josephine St. in the Irish Channel (one block off Magazine Street)

APRIL 2019

(504) 525-2495 seelos.org

HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. www.haunted historytours.com NEW ORLEANS SPIRITS AND SPELLS TOUR These guided spirited journeys through the French Quarter explore the ghosts, gris-gris and witchery associated with the world’s most magical city.

Departs Friday to Sunday at 7 pm from Hex: Old World Witchery. 1219 Decatur St., 504.667.5570. Map 3, I5; www. spiritsandspellstour.com

SAVE OUR CEMETERIES St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am, 11:30 am and 1 pm from Backatown Coffee Parlour (301 Basin St.). $25; under 12 free. Lafayette No. 1: departs daily at 10:30 am and 1 pm from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.).

Reservations recommended.

504.525.3377. www.saveour cemeteries.org

Fun Fabulous Tour Experiences 855.353.6634 MUSTDONOLA.COM

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; www.steamboatnatchez.com

VIP CITY TOURS These two-hour excursions offer a sweeping overview of the city, from the French Quarter and the Garden District to Lake Pontchartrain and the Lower 9th Ward. Tours conducted daily at 9 am, 1 and 4 pm.

2314 Iberville St., 504.329.2489.

Map 1, D3; www.vipcitytours.com

NIGHTLIFE Cocktails ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; www.arnauds.com CURE This cutting-edge cocktail lounge, housed in a former fire station, has one foot in the 19th century and one in the 21st, making it one of the hippest places in town to imbibe and socialize. 4905 Freret St., 504.302.2357. Map 1, D3; www.curenola.com PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; www.patobriens.com THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip.

State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354.

Map 3, E4; www.penthouse clubneworleans.com

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THE GUIDE

DESTINATION KITCHEN

RIVERBOAT CITY OF NEW ORLEANS The city’s newest riverboat has all of the flair and flavor of the city, with great dining, jazz, bars, history and culture. Daily jazz brunch and dinner cruises are offered. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401.

Map 3, E7; www.riverboatcity ofneworleans.com

TABASCO PEPPER SAUCE FACTORY TOUR Daily guided tours of the factory and museum are offered 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays), along with tours of the Jungle Gardens and Bird City.

La. Hwy. 329, Avery Island, La., 337.365.8173. Map 2, C2; www.tabacso.com

Entertainment+Nightlife

Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; www.graylineneworleans.com

ROYAL FRENCHMEN BAR Just steps from the bustling nightlife on Frenchmen Street, this cozy hotel bar offers craft cocktails, local brews, light bites and live music nightly.

Open daily at noon. 700 Royal St., 504.619.9600. Map 3, J4; www.royalfrenchmen.com

D.B.A. This chic hangout on the Frenchmen strip features 20 premium draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and live music nightly. Lively weehours scene. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5; www.dbaneworleans.com

SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic cocktails in the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; www. therooseveltneworleans.com

THE FILLMORE NEW ORLEANS Harrah’s Casino ups the live-music ante with this 22,000 sq.-ft. offshoot of the legendary San Francisco venue, which feaures top-tier national touring acts. 6 Canal St., 504.881.1555. Map 3, E6; www.fillmorenola.com

Live Entertainment

HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; www.hob.com

N IG H T L IF E

BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish. Local acts perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.948.2583. Map 3, J5; www.bluenilelive.com

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THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. The club features a rotating roster of leading local talent nightly at 8 pm. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map , F4; www. sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse MAPLE LEAF A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3; www.mapleleafbar.com PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841.

Map 3, G4; www.preservation hall.com SNUG HARBOR An elegant, intimate mainstay of Frenchmen Street’s music

row. Two sets nightly.

626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696.Map 3, J4; www.snugjazz.com STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Swing back to a bygone era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6; ww.stagedoorcanteen.org THREE KEYS This hip space in the Ace Hotel mixes things up with live performances by local music acts, swing dance lessons and guest speakers discussing New Orleans culture. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map 1, D3; www.threekeysnola.com TIPITINA’S The legendary Tip’s offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; www.tipitinas.com

APRIL 2019

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LIA

504.613.0558 • HexWitch.com

join us fri - sun at 7pm for

ROYAL

DORSIERE

JU

1219 Decatur St. • Near French Market

2

7

IER

MP

Vieux Carré Police Station

EXCHANGE ALLEY

3

Historic N.O. Collection

2

CA

TC NA

Ernest N. Morial Convention Center

ChrisTian Day & brian cain Voodoo CANDLES Herbs OcculT Dolls & INCENSE & Oils Books

CANAL

* not valid with other offers.

4

5

ST. CHARLES

ON

Dumaine

COMM

Ursulines

3

V GRA

2

ION

Esplanade

IDO RD PE

or by Phone!

1

UN

READINGS

In-PERSON

BOURBON

CARONDELET

RIVERFRONT STREETCAR STOPS

5

Woldenberg Riverfront Park

Harrah’s Casino

Aquarium of the Americas & Entergy Imax Algiers Theatre 6 Riverwalk Ferry Creole Queen

4 food groups-pork, cheese, fruit, donut!

3 Steamboat

Winner 3 years in a row, New Orleans Magazine Tops of the Town for Brunch 2017, 2018, 2019 125 Camp Street | 504-561-8844 | www.redgravycafe.com

4

907 Bourbon Street (504) 592-4666 Vintage Designer Sunglasses & More 329 Royal Street New Orleans, LA 70130 504-525-2262 | vintage329.com

54

NO-WM_090300_Skully's-FQ Walk.in1 1

907 Bourbon Street (504) 592-4666

W HERETRAVELER ® CI TY NA ME HE RE

MONTH YEAR NO-WM_090300_Skully's-FQ Walk.in1 1

2/9/09 2:37:04 PM

2/9/09

SPECI A L A DV ERT ISING SECT ION

7

FRENCH QUARTER N Y

KERLEREC

ST .A N TH O

BURGUNDY

1200

ESPLANADE

1100

BARRACKS

1000

URSULINES

900

ST. PHILIP

DUMAINE

ST. ANN

9

800

ORLEANS

700

1000

ST. PETER

RAMPART

600

GOV. NICHOLLS

Mahalia Jackson Theater of the Performing Arts Armstrong Park

PA U G ER

900

.R AM

D

RT PA

N U

BOURBON

N

RG BU

Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop

TO

800

U RO

DAUPHINE

4

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ESPLANADE

EL D S FI N IA EL YS

MADISON

ES

Mar

Local Artists Gifts Full service bead store

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Gov. Nic holl sS t. W har f

American Aquatic Garden

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AAT

Fren

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Mississippi River

Old U.S. Mint

EC

2

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D

8

MOONWALK

E

TR AR

Pedestrian Mall

IN

L YA

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1 DECATUR

3

8

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Ursuline Convent

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Pedestrian Mall

PH Washington Square Park

500

WILKINSON ROW

D

600

BeauregardKeyes House CHARTRES

Brewery

AR

FR EN C

ROYAL Gallier House

Madame John's Legacy

Jackson Square

H M EN

Y

700

PIRATE’S PERE ALLEY ANTOINE ALLEY

1

(no Mardi Gras beads)

85 French Market Pl., 1228 Decatur St., New Orleans, LA 70116

504.561.0046

Historic Algiers Point

sales@theartistsmarketnola.com

www.theartistsmarketnola.com

5

6

9

KILLER POBOYS Internationally Inspired, Chef Crafted, New Orleans Style Sandwiches

219 Dauphine (504) 462-2731 Wed - Mon | 10AM - 8PM

811 Conti @ Erin Rose Bar (504)252-6745 Wed - Mon | 10AM - Midnight

55

S. RAMPART

100 BARO

NNE

8 9 EXCHANGE ALLEY

COMM ON

VIER GRA

PO

TC NA

E

St. Louis Cathedral

2

Z

RA

HE

YD

9

S

ETER

S

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U ITO

P OU TCH

ial enter

RS

Harrah's Casino Riverwalk

Creole Queen

Canal Place Shopping Centre

Aquarium of the Americas Algiers 6 Ferry

1

5

Entergy IMAX Theatre

4

Jackson Squar e

TCAR

3

6

Historic Algiers Point

WALKING TOUR

4

Serving Lunch & Dinner.

Live Music Thursday - Sunday 504-524-9632

510 Toulouse St. NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

3

5 Find the best of the city

BOURBON AT CANAL

OPEN 24 HOURS

TWO LOCATIONS 837 Canal Street (plus, full service nail salon) 212 Chartres Street 210.843.827

DECATUR

2

French Quarter

Woldenberg Riverfront Park

Mississippi River

Ursuline Convent

MOONWALK

Natchez Steamboat Gray Line Tour Departures

2

6 4

TREE

NT S

RFRO

RIVE

ne ETE

Beauregar Keyes Ho

Jackson Brewery

Insecterium

Gallier House

Madame John's Legacy

WILKINSON ROW

DECATUR

ZIN

S. P

ST. PHILIP

PIRATE'S ALLEY PERE ANTOINE ALLEY

ROYAL Vieux Carré Police Station

3

N. P

LAS

DUMAINE

10

Historic N.O. Collection

DORSIERE

es

e

ST. ANN

Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop

M CA

ade

1100

BOURBON

CHARTRES

GA MA

1000

MADISON

1

HermannGrima House

Pedestrian Mall

IDO RD

ION

PE

UN

CANAL

9

ST. CHARLES

P

900

BURGUNDY

Pedestrian Mall

11

ONT STOPS

800

DAUPHINE

3 CARONDELET

700

ORLEANS

7

600

ST. PETER

Y PL.

500

ST. LOUIS

ERSIT

400 CONTI

UNIV EFE

E O'K

IBERVILLE

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New Orleans Centre

BIENVILLE

LA

O OY

300

TOULOUSE

N. RAMPART

200

Louisiana Superdome

URSULINES

SPECI A L A DV ERT ISING SECT ION

Fren

ch M ark

Gov . Nic h

N TH O N Y

KERLEREC

ST .A

1000 900

RT PA

BU U RG D N Y

IN

PA U

PH

800

AU

G ER

D

600

TO U RO

700

E H M EN

9

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TR

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H

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500

L YA

FR EN C

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Mar

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FI AN EL YS I

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F lea

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Old U.S. Mint

EC

D

EL D S

R

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8

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ESPLANADE

Other notable landmarks: .R

BARRACKS

1200

N

GOV. NICHOLLS

SPECI A L A DV ERT ISING SECT ION

1

holl sS t. W har f

The French Quarter is one of the nation’s oldest residential communities.

Please treat this historic neighborhood with respect.

6

10

11

FREE 7

GIFT* WITH A $35 ROCK SHOP PURCHASE

125 BOURBON ST. | +1 504.529.5617

#HardRockCafe | hardrock.com ©2019 HARD ROCK INTERNATIONAL (USA), INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Expires 12/31/19 * terms and conditions apply

19-HRCSE-1546 WHERE MAGAZINE.indd 1 3/7/2019 11:16:33 AM

NEW ORLEANS Maps

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THE GUIDE

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Mercedes-Benz Superdome

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Riverfront Wharf Streetcar Line HA

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Julia St. Cruise Terminal & Parking Garage

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APRIL 2019

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Maps

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BC B on Canal, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 K CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 1 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5 EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 2 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 3 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 4 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 5 MC Marriott at the Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NC New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 NO NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 St OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 ia n e Av OR vOmni e Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 Sp ch lin A Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 Ro FrankOO t S PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 6 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 RF Royal Frenchman, 400 Esplanade Ave., 619-9660 J4 7 Street Direction RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 French Quarter RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 Jazzy Passes SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 1 day - $3 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 3 day - $9 8 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 31 day - 55 WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 Ride RTA buses and streetcars as WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 much as you’d like.

WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 K WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

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French Market

HM

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Gov. Nicholls St. Wharf

Riverfront Streetcar Line

Crescent Park

KEY HM

Transit Routes

Hotel

Riverfront - $1.25 St. Charles - $1.25 Magazine - $1.25 Canal St - $1.25 Loyola - $1.25 Rampart - $1.25

H

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61

THE GUIDE

C St

MM



WHERE NEXT THROUGH YOUR LENS

MIAMI, Florida SAN ANTONIO, Texas SAN FRANCISCO, California BOTTOM:

62

W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

You'll find WhereTraveler® in cities across the U.S. and around the world, including the four shown here.

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TOP FROM LEFT:

Snap a great moment and tag it on Instagram with #wheretraveler for a chance to appear in an upcoming issue.

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APRIL 2019

Theade par s t r a t s ! e r he

ts our artis h c t a w Come ats yearo l f e d a r make pa mes, King Cake, ostu round! C s, and more! movie

s on Follow u m!

Instagra

1380 Port of New Orleans Place • MardiGrasWorld.com • 504-361-7821



©SHAWN FINK

PARTING SHOT

Tad Gormley Stadium One of many WPA projects in City Park, Tad Gormley Stadium played host to the Beatles in 1964 and to the 1992 U.S. Olympic Track & Field Trials.

64

W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

APRIL 2019

Double Plantation Tour OAK ALLEY

LAURA

Three Unique Stories of Plantation Life

Choose a TWO plantation combination Whitney & Laura | Laura & Oak Alley | Whitney & Oak Alley ENJOY OUR OTHER TOURS: SUPER CITY • SWAMP • AIRBOAT • KATRINA PLANTATION/BRUNCH/SWAMP • COCKTAIL GARDEN DISTRICT • FRENCH QUARTER CEMETERY & VOODOO • GHOSTS & SPIRITS • GROUPS • SEASONAL

Locally owned & touring New Orleans since 1924!

504-569-1401 | 800-233-2628 | GrayLineNewOrleans.com

steamboat

Last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River Three cruises a day from the French Quarter Dinner Jazz Cruise, Sunday Brunch & more Calliope Concerts & Engine Room Visits Inside and outside seating Live Jazz on all cruises 504-569-1401 • SteamboatNatchez.com