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LONDON CITY GUIDE ®

FEBRUARY 2018

WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM

PLUS

INSIDE LONDON FASHION WEEK

FROM LONDON WITH

KEW GARDENS’ ORCHIDS FESTIVAL MEERA SYAL’S CITY GUIDE

LOVE Celebrate the city’s greatest romances, including Harry and Meghan’s wedding of the year

+ His and her gifts Spas for two

CHINESE NEW YEAR

How to mark the Year of the Dog

WAVES OF NOSTALGIA

Famous ships, from the Titanic to Queen Mary

C U LT U R E

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

SHOPPING

DINING

MAPS


STEP INTO THE

FORBIDDEN FOREST

T I C K E T S M U S T B E P U R C H A S E D I N A DVA N C E AT W B S T U D I OTO U R . CO . U K TM & © 2018 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. J.K. ROWLING’S WIZARDING WORLD TM J.K. Rowling and Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc.

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Contents See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london

February

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE Where London has direct access to the head concierges and their teams across London’s four and five-star hotels, and is considered to be the ‘concierge’s bible’.

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LONDON CITY GUIDE ®

FEBRUARY 2018

WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM

PLUS

INSIDE LONDON FASHION WEEK

FROM LONDON WITH

KEW GARDENS’ ORCHIDS FESTIVAL MEERA SYAL’S CITY GUIDE

LOVE Celebrate the city’s greatest romances, including Harry and Meghan’s wedding of the year

+ His and her gifts Spas for two

CHINESE NEW YEAR

How to mark the Year of the Dog

WAVES OF NOSTALGIA

Famous ships, from the Titanic to Queen Mary

C U LT U R E

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

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20

SHOPPING

DINING

MAPS 16/01/2018 12:42

ON THE COVER

Prince Harry and his fiancée, Ms. Meghan Markle © Alexi Lubomirski via Getty Images

The Guide 20 SIGHTSEEING Discover great events, from Kew Gardens’ Orchids Festival to the reopening of The Royal Mews with the Queen’s carriages. 34 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES All aboard! The golden age of cruise ships is celebrated at the V&A, from the Titanic to the Queen Mary.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: CHURCHILL AFTERNOON TEA COURTESY OF THE WELLESLEY; COACH © THE ROYAL COLLECTION; FLAMENCO DANCER COURTESY OF FLAMENCO FESTIVAL; KENSINGTON PALACE © HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES; CHINATOWN © MIKEINLONDON/ISTOCK; CHOCOLATES COURTESY OF PRESTAT

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42 ENTERTAINMENT The Flamenco Festival returns to Sadler’s Wells with mesmerising Spanish guitar music and dramatic dancing. 50 SHOPPING As London Fashion Week struts into town, we show you how to enjoy catwalk shows and pop-up stalls, and get style advice.

14

56 DINING We round up the London restaurants which have won a coveted Michelin star for the first time.

10

Best of the month 6 WHERE NOW

14 CHINESE NEW YEAR

We look at this month’s biggest festivals and events, including Six Nations Rugby, Russian Ballet Icons and the London Winter Run.

Mark the Year of the Dog with dragon dancing and dumplings.

18 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE

10 LONDON IN LOVE As Prince Harry and Meghan Markle prepare to tie the knot, we relive some of London’s greatest love stories, from Paul and Linda McCartney to British artist duo Gilbert & George.

PLAN

2017-2018

PLAN DE

LONDRES ÉDITION E FRANÇAIS

Romance-inspired gifts, for both of you.

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TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D ’ S V I S I T O R S We are the world’s largest publisher of maps and magazines for visitors. Today, Where can be found on hotel concierges’ desks in more than 80 destinations around the globe.

Download past and present issues from across the Where Network via Magzter’s app. Go to the app store. You can also read a digital copy – visit http://en.calameo.com FRENCH MAP COVER 2017.indd 1

01/03/2017 12:58

74 MY PERFECT DAY As the comedian Meera Syal stars in Annie the Musical, she shares her London hotspots.

In this city, we also produce IN London – a portfolio of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English – and London Planner, the official monthly guide to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayor’s promotional company, London & Partners.

64 NIGHTLIFE Ssssh! We visit the city’s tucked-away speakeasies, from Jack Solomons Club to Evans & Peel Pharmacy – just don’t tell anyone. 68 WELLBEING A couple that relaxes together, stays together! Discover some top treatments for two across London’s spas. 70 ESSENTIALS London concierges share their travel tips, hidden gems and strangest requests. 72 MAPS A useful map of central London. w w w.wheret r aveler.c o m 3

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TOT_WhereLondon_251x118mm_040118.qxp_Layout 1 05/01/2018 17:40 Page 1 IN OVER 80 CITIES: INFLUENCING AND INSPIRING VISITORS SINCE 1936

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WELCOME

Editor’s Letter

True romance Love is in the air! We Brits love a royal wedding, so as Prince Harry and Meghan Markle prepare to tie the knot, we mark the occasion with London’s greatest love stories. Proving that this is indeed the most romantic city in the world, discover how couples, from Paul and Linda McCartney to Gilbert & George, fell in love in this very city (p. 10). If you’re feeling loved up for Valentine’s Day, look at our romantic gift ideas (p. 18) and spa treatments (p. 68). When I first moved to London, I was struck at how every possible culture was celebrated. To prove the point, we have the largest Chinese New Year celebrations outside of Asia. Whether it’s dragon dancing or dumpling eating, find out how you can join in (p. 14). From top hats to three-piece suits, London is the leader of the pack when it comes to style. London Fashion Week is one of the biggest events of its kind in the world, attracting leading designers, editors and celebrities. Get a taste of it all at catwalk shows (p. 50). London is filled with new openings. My top picks include T-Shirt: Cult, Culture, Subversion at the Fashion and Textile Museum (p. 38); Girls & Boys, starring Carey Mulligan (p. 8); and the latest Michelin-starred restaurants (p. 56). What are yours? Tell us on social media. Have an amazing trip!

PRINCE HARRY AND MS. MEGHAN MARKLE © ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI VIA GETTY IMAGES; MAIN IMAGE © ISTOCK

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London

Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: wherelondon

Prince Harry and Meghan Markle will be getting married at St George’s Chapel at Windsor Castle in May

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ÂŽ

On your marks, get set, go! Enjoy the biggest events, from the London Winter Run to Six Nations Rugby, this February

RUSSIAN BALLET ICONS GALA SUNDAY 25 FEBRUARY

Star dancers from the world’s most iconic ensembles, including the Bolshoi, Mariinsky, New York City Ballet and Grand Opera Paris, perform at this glamorous annual event. The multimedia experience celebrates Russian classical repertoires and contemporary masterpieces from leading choreographers, such as Kenneth MacMillan, Wayne McGregor and Alexey Ratmansky. The performance takes place at the iconic London Coliseum. www.londoncoliseum.org 6 W H E R E LO N D O N I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

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COLLECT 2018 THURSDAY 22–SUNDAY 25 FEBRUARY

LONDON WINTER RUN SUNDAY 4 FEBRUARY

Cheer on the participants at the London Winter Run, a 10km race that raises money for Cancer Research UK. The route sees more than 16,000 runners weave past top sites such as Nelson’s Column and St Paul’s Cathedral. In keeping with the seasonal theme, enjoy the event village at Trafalgar Square with cuddly penguins and polar bears. www.londonwinterrun.co.uk

Returning to Chelsea’s Saatchi Gallery for four days, Collect 2018 is a must for fans of arts and crafts. Organised by the Islington-based Crafts Council, this event unites 35 galleries from around the world, allowing each to exhibit and sell their work. Visitors are treated to a unique overview of the contemporary international craft scene, from glass and ceramic work, to jewellery and bookbinding. Explore this dazzling display of creativity, and stay for a presentation by a leading figure from the world of art, design, architecture or fashion. www.craftscouncil. org.uk

LONDON CLASSIC CAR SHOW THURSDAY 15–SUNDAY 18 FEBRUARY

Start your engines! Seven hundred classic cars are on display at this dazzling car show, taking place at the ExCeL Centre in the Docklands. The show includes an indoor driving track, where many of these beautiful, pristine machines will be fired up to demonstrate exactly what they can do. Among the highlights, look out for Getaway Cars, which showcases some of the most famous cars ever to be chased by the police. www.thelondonclassiccarshow.co.uk

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

FEBRUARY

1

FROM THURSDAY 8 FEBRUARY

Oscar-nominated Carey Mulligan, from The Great Gatsby and An Education, is swapping the screen for the stage as she stars in Girls & Boys at the Royal Court Theatre. The first collaboration between writer Dennis Kelly and director Lyndsey Turner, this play tells the story of a romance that starts in the queue of an airport boarding gate. This unexpected relationship blossoms into settling down and starting a family, until things take a turn for the worse. www.royalcourttheatre.com

NATWEST SIX NATIONS FROM SATURDAY 3 FEBRUARY

The Six Nations, Europe’s biggest rugby tournament, kicks off this month for six weeks of top sporting action. Big matches this month include England vs Wales at Twickenham Stadium (10 Feb). Eddie Jones has led the England team to huge success since he took over as coach in 2015. It’s been 22 wins from 23 since then, including the 2016 and 2017 Six Nations plus all their three matches in the Autumn Internationals – including the prize scalp of beating old foe Australia. There’s more good news for rugby fans: the World Rugby Museum has reopened its doors at Twickenham Stadium after a major refurbishment. www.englandrugby.com

LADY GAGA SATURDAY 4 & THURSDAY 8 FEBRUARY

‘I just want my fans to feel a message of liberation,’ says Lady Gaga about her Joanne World Tour (p. 48) at The O2 arena. She may be famous for her outlandish outfits, but she has also gained critical and commercial success for her hits, which include Born This Way and Bad Romance. Expect high-energy showmanship and plenty of costume changes. www.o2.com

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Take an exclusive and rare guided tour of Buckingham Palace’s state rooms

2

Visit the Andreas Gursky exhibition at the newly rebuilt Hayward Gallery

3

From flexible fleas to a dramatic trapeze act – it can only be Cirque du Soleil’s Ovo

4

It’s the final day to see photos at North: Fashioning Identity at Somerset House

5

Experience more than 400 years of royal history with a visit to Windsor Castle

6

Bizet’s popular opera, Carmen, opens tonight at the Royal Opera House

7 8 9

Take in views of the city from the comfort of a double-decker bus on a Big Bus Tour

10 11

Don’t miss Lady Gaga’s final gig at The O2 as part of her European tour From today, see Vivienne Westwood’s designs at the Fashion and Textile Museum The gorgeous Orchids Festival opens today at Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew Enjoy the foot-tapping hits of Motown the Musical on its second birthday

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It’s half-term holiday – enjoy free childfriendly activities at The British Museum

13

Take a guided tour of Wembley Stadium to see England’s dressing rooms

14

Watch colourful performances during the Flamenco Festival at Sadler’s Wells

15

Take the family on a tour of the Houses of Parliament, aimed at kids aged seven to 12

16

Enjoy a candlelit performance of Mozart’s Requiem at St Martin-in-the-Fields

17

Virtuoso violinist Nigel Kennedy plays Gershwin at Ronnie Scott’s tonight

18

Head to Chinatown in Soho to usher in the Year of the Dog for Chinese New Year

19

Can Matilda convince her headmistress that she’s a genius? Find out at the musical!

20

Let your children experience a whole host of jobs and hobbies at KidZania

21

Head to the Victoria and Albert Museum for the final week of its Opera exhibition

22

Go potty for Potter at Warner Bros. Studio Tour and see Harry Potter film sets

23

Celebrate the birth of Handel, with regular recitals at Handel & Hendrix in London

24

Take a chance and queue up at the TKTS booth for a cut-price theatre ticket

25

Visit Westminster Abbey at 5.45pm to experience a free organ recital

26

See the final days of On Air, the exhibition at Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum

27 28

If it’s a clear day, take in the views from your pod on the Coca-Cola London Eye It’s your last chance to visit the Whales exhibition at the Natural History Museum

PREVIOUS PAGE: LONDON WINTER RUN © CRUK LONDON WINTER RUN; RUSSIAN BALLET ICONS GALA © RBI; HALCYON BY JOCHENOTT AT COLLECT © ESTER SEGARRA; FERRARI COURTESY OF CLASSIC CAR SHOW. THIS PAGE: CAREY MULLIGAN © JOHAN PERSSON; RUGBY © GETTY/RFU; LADY GAGA IMAGE COURTESY OF THE O2

GIRLS & BOYS

For more ideas visit www.wheretraveler.com

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London Clockwise from far left: Elaine Paige in Dick Whittington; with Andrew Lloyd Webber, Tim Rice and Gary Bond at an Evita party

in l ve

As Prince Harry and Meghan Markle get set to tie the knot this spring, Neil Simpson falls head over heels for London’s greatest love stories

W

edding bells will ring out over Windsor this May, when Prince Harry and Meghan Markle say their vows in the beautiful St George’s Chapel. Here, we celebrate their romance as well as Valentine’s Day with a look at some of London’s most heart-stirring romances and where they happened.

Queen Victoria & Prince Albert

Gilbert & George

Spitalfields Market, Shoreditch Originally from Plymouth in Devon, George Passmore met his Italian husband Gilbert Prousch in 1967, when the pair began studying sculpture at Saint Martin’s School of Art (now part of the Central Saint Martins arts school). They have been inseparable ever since, as an artistic partnership that believes in ‘art for all’. Together, Gilbert & George won the Turner Prize in 1986, counted David Bowie as a customer and also enjoyed Tate Modern’s largest-ever artist retrospective exhibition in 2007. The couple married in 2008 and have lived in a restored 18th-century house on Fournier Street in Spitalfields since 1968. Embark on a shopping trip to Spitalfields Market and you might just spot them. www.gilbertandgeorge.co.uk

VICTORIA AND ALBERT © ISTOCK; GILBERT & GEORGE © REX SHUTTERSTOCK

Victoria and Albert Museum, South Kensington Arguably the biggest London love story of them all, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert’s epic bond is in evidence on a grand scale in the city. The V&A was just one of the museums on South Kensington’s Exhibition Road that was built by Albert (the area’s 19th-century nickname was ‘Albertopolis’). The Science Museum, the Natural History Museum and more were funded using the huge profits generated by his Great Exhibition of 1851. The money intended for building the Royal Albert Hall was diverted by Victoria following Albert’s death in 1861, so that she could use it to build the Albert Memorial just across the road. Following Albert’s death, Victoria famously wore nothing but black for the rest of her life. www.vam.ac.uk

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ROMANTIC LONDON | WHERE NOW

Emil Zatopek & Dana Ingrová Wembley Stadium, Wembley This athletic couple were born on the same day in the former Czechoslovakia, but didn’t meet each other until they were both competing at the London Olympic Games in 1948. Emil was a runner and Dana a javelin thrower, and they both broke their personal best records on the day they met. During the games at Wembley, Emil won two medals (5,000m silver and 10,000m gold) and by the time the 1948 games were over, Emil and Dana were engaged. The couple continued to compete alongside each other and were together for 52 years, until Emil passed away in 2000. www.wembleystadium.com

Paul & Linda McCartney

MARGARET MCCOLLUM © REX; PAUL AND LINDA MCCARTNEY AND EMIL ZATOPEK & DANA INGROVÁ © ALAMY; PRINCE WILLIAM AND KATE MIDDLETON © MARIO TESTINO

Oswald Laurence & Margaret McCollum Embankment Station, Charing Cross This tale of London love may not be between two famous figures, but it might be the most beautiful story. Actor Oswald Laurence and doctor Margaret McCollum were married for 15 years and lived together in north London. During his career, Oswald recorded the famous ‘mind the gap’ message for the Northern line, but after 40 years London Underground reduced its use until it was only played at Embankment Station. Oswald died in 2007 and Margaret regularly visited the station to hear her late husband’s voice, but in 2012 Transport for London (TfL) changed the announcement. Margaret contacted TfL, which arranged for a CD recording of Oswald’s ‘mind the gap’ message to be sent to her. TfL was so touched by the story that in March 2013, it reintroduced Oswald’s voice to Embankment Station, where you can still hear it today. www.tfl.gov.uk

The Old Marylebone Town Hall, Marylebone The Beatle and the US photographer met at Soho’s Bag O’Nails club – close to the epicentre of London’s Swinging Sixties scene, Carnaby Street – in 1967. The club is still open, to members only, but for Beatles fans it’s worth visiting to see the commemorative plaque in the doorway. In 1969, Paul and Linda were married at The Old Marylebone Town Hall, which has just had a refurbishment. Breast cancer took Linda’s life in 1998, and in 2011 Paul married Nancy Shevell. The grand hall has also witnessed the weddings of Ringo Starr and Liam Gallagher. Book ahead for a free tour of the hall. www.westminster. gov.uk/old-marylebone-town-hall

Will & Kate

Westminster Abbey, Westminster There was a time during the credit crunch when it was rumoured that Prince William and Kate Middleton would have a low-key wedding. In April 2011, however, the second in line to the British throne married a Berkshire commoner at Westminster Abbey in front of 1,900 guests, fulfilling the fairytale wedding dreams of royalists all over the world. Will and Kate met at the University of St Andrews in Scotland in 2001, but the capital is very much their home now – the couple live in Kensington Palace. www.westminster-abbey.org

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WHERE NOW

John Keats & Fanny Brawne Keats House, Hampstead It seems only right that one of English literature’s greatest Romantic poets had an equally romantic (and tragic) love story. In pursuit of a healthier lifestyle, John and his two brothers moved from the City of London to Hampstead in 1817, when John was 22 years old. He moved into the smaller half of a house called Wentworth Place in 1818, and soon after the Brawne family moved into the larger half. John quickly fell in love with their eldest daughter, Fanny, and they became engaged in 1819. When John became ill with tuberculosis, he wrote letters to Fanny, despite the fact that she lived just next door. John died less than two years later and, these days, you can tour this beautiful Georgian villa where he met the love of his life. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/things-to-do/keats-house

Ruth & Richard Rogers

Harry & Meghan Nottingham Cottage, Kensington Nestled in the leafy grounds of Kensington Palace (left), Harry and Meghan’s little love nest seems quaint and simple but, this being the royal family, the cottage was in fact designed by Sir Christopher Wren, one of Britain’s most renowned architects. We wouldn’t expect anything less. www.hrp.org.uk

RUTH AND RICHARD ROGERS © REX; JOHN KEATS © ALAMY; KENSINGTON PALACE © ISTOCK

The River Café, Hammersmith One of London’s most iconic restaurants has a love story at its heart, which began almost half a century ago. Design student Ruth Elias met architect Richard Rogers in 1969, and they were married four years later. In 1987, Ruth partnered up with her friend, the late Rose Gray, to open The River Café in Hammersmith, an Italian restaurant designed by Richard. It was founded primarily to feed the staff at Richard’s nearby architectural practice and for decades, he and Ruth would walk back and forth to see each other every day. Over the years, the restaurant has become a London institution, with a garden area offering glorious views of the River Thames in summer. And although Richard has been forced to move his practice out of the neighbourhood, their love story continues. www.rivercafe.co.uk

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VISIT THE

LONDON EYE

Book online and save today at

londoneye.com ‘Coca-Cola’, the Dynamic Ribbon Device and the design of the ‘Coca-Cola Contour Bottle’ are registered trademarks of The Coca-Cola Company.

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d s ’ n o g a r D L

ondon’s first Chinatown was far from the glittering lights of the West End. Back in the 1880s, Chinese sailors working the trading routes between China and London settled in Limehouse, an area close to the London Docks, and a small community emerged with its own shops, laundries and social clubs. By the time journalists started referring to this part of the capital as ‘Chinatown’, towards the turn of the century, it was still just a few hundred strong, with two Chinese communities represented – people from Guangzhou in Limehouse and people from Shanghai in Poplar. Visit London’s Docklands today and you’ll find no trace of the area’s Chinese past (though the Museum of London Docklands is hosting familyfriendly Chinese New Year events on 16 Feb). During and after World War II, most of east London’s Chinese residents were scattered across the country, including in cities such as Liverpool and Birmingham, explains Christine Yau MBE, chair of the London Chinese Community Centre. But not all of them left London. ‘A small number found their way to Gerrard Street, which was a very smart move, because of the location,’ she says. The following years saw this tiny community swell with a new wave of Chinese migrants, this time from Hong Kong, a British colony undergoing land reforms that made a new life in the UK seem like an attractive prospect for some. Rents were low in this part of Soho and short-term leases made setting up a business easier than it might have been elsewhere in London. ‘With the return of British soldiers from the Far East, the market grew for Chinese cuisine and everything started from there,’ Yau continues. It’s a subject she knows about, having come to London from Hong Kong in 1985 to set up her restaurant Yming. The area was officially recognised as London’s Chinatown by the council that year.

CHECKING INTO CHINATOWN Compared to other Chinatowns around the world, London’s is a new kid on the block. Manila’s was established in the late 16th century, and San Francisco’s – one of the largest outside Asia – dates back to the 1800s. Even so, London’s Chinatown has changed a lot over its short life, explains Lucy 14 W H E R E LO N D O N I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

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CHINATOWN | WHERE NOW

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

As the Year of the Dog begins, Jo Caird finds out how you can join in the Chinese New Year celebrations

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Mitchell, marketing director at Oriental food specialist SeeWoo, whose father opened the company’s first shop in Chinatown more than 40 years ago. ‘The area used to be very Chinese, whereas now it’s much more multicultural, with a mix of people from South East Asia as well as Westerners,’ she says. ‘This is reflected in the broad mix of restaurants in Chinatown, which now encompass many different cuisines.’ It’s changed linguistically too, with Mandarin having taken over as the dominant language from Cantonese, observes Stanley Cheung, owner of Plum Valley restaurant, which he bought from his father.

BEYOND CHINATOWN London’s Chinatown also differs from others in the world in that it isn’t really a residential area for the community. Now, as when Hong Kong Chinese migrants first came to Soho in the 1950s, people run their businesses in Chinatown but live elsewhere in the capital. ‘I think they hate to live next to each other,’ says Yau with a laugh, pointing instead to areas such as Barnet, Edgware, Croydon and Greenwich. You won’t find anything like the bustle of Chinatown in those parts of London, but big pan-Asian supermarkets and food halls such as Bang Bang Oriental in Colindale and SeeWoo Cash & Carry in Greenwich give a flavour of the Chinese community experience in London. They’re also great spots to pick up Chinese snacks to sustain you during your London adventures. But you can find excellent Chinese food, representing a large number of different regions, all over the city, too.

‘Eating is a great way to connect with Chinese culture’

‘Eating is a great way to connect with Chinese culture,’ says Freya Aitken-Turff, chief executive of China Exchange, which holds events that stimulate greater curiosity about China’s influence on the world. ‘Try My Old Place at Liverpool Street for spicy Sichuan food in huge portions, or Xi’an Impression in Holloway for stylish Shan Xi eating.’ When it comes to other aspects of Chinese culture in London outside Chinatown, The British Museum and the Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A) are essential stops. The V&A is home to one of the biggest collections of Chinese art outside East Asia, encompassing ancient artefacts to contemporary pieces that reflect up-to-the-minute Chinese design. The British Museum, meanwhile, tells the story of China from 5000 BC to the present day, with calligraphy, painting, jade, silk and porcelain. Those wishing to take home a piece of Chinese art history should make a beeline for Eskenazi in Mayfair, a gallery specialising in high-end Chinese art. The performing arts are represented in the West End by Shen Yun, an epic dance show at the Dominion Theatre exploring Chinese history and mythology through traditional Chinese dance (16-25 Feb). Meanwhile, the Wanlin Academy of Dance & Performing Arts has classes in Chinese dance at Danceworks studio in Mayfair on Sundays (2pm-4pm). Though you’ll find Chinese culture all over London, your our starting point should be where it all began. As Aitken-Turff puts it: ‘Chinatown is the place where members of the community, those visiting from China and those who want to feel a connection to China, can gather and be visible.’ www.visitlondon.com

Chinese New Year celebrations London’s Chinese New Year celebrations take place on 18 Feb this year (Chinese New Year actually falls on 16 Feb), ushering in the Year of the Dog with a mighty parade that kicks off with a dragon and lion dance in Charing Cross Road at 10am. The parade passes through Chinatown, finishing up in Trafalgar Square where Chinese dance and music performances – including the amazing lion pole dance – will be taking place on the main stage. Once you’ve enjoyed the fun, head along to one of Chinatown’s many eateries for a New Year feast – and be sure to order some fish, says Lucy Mitchell of SeeWoo: ‘The Chinese word for ‘fish’ sounds similar to the word for ‘surplus’. It is believed that eating fish will bring a surplus of money and good luck in the year ahead.’

PREVIOUS PAGE: TRAFALGAR SQUARE © VISIT BRITAIN/GRANT PRITCHARD; DANCERS © MUSEUM OF LONDON; CHEF, CHINESE DISHES AND GRAPHICS © ISTOCK. THIS PAGE: CHINATOWN © ISTOCK; WOMEN CELEBRATING CHINESE NEW YEAR © VISITBRITAIN

WHERE NOW | CHINESE LONDON

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‘The bees are getting suspicious’, Winnie-the-Pooh chapter 1, pencil drawing by E. H. Shepard © The Shepard Trust, reproduced with permission from Curtis Brown Group Ltd. © Disney. Based on the ‘Winnie the Pooh’ works by A. A. Milne and E.H. Shepard.


WHERE NOW | PRODUCTS

FROM LONDON Take your pick from these romantic gifts for couples

RAISE A GLASS Created by designer Julien Macdonald Set of two Champagne flutes, £30, Debenhams, 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG

THE FOOD OF LOVE Prestat chocolates were loved by the author Roald Dahl Heart assortment, £19.50, Prestat, 4 Princes Arcade, SW1Y 6DS

Top Pick WRAPPED UP IN LOVE Designer clothes by Bella Freud The London-based designer’s Love for You Cashmere Sweater, £390, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL

READ ALL ABOUT IT This poetry book is exclusive to Fortnum & Mason A Collection of Contemporary British Love Poetry, £20, Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER

TAGGING ALONG This passport case is available in 14 colours Kate Spade’s New York His and Hers Luggage Tags, £22, John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX

YOUR CUP OF TEA Emma Bridgewater is a British ceramics manufacturer Polka-dot Mr and Mrs Mugs, £39.95 for a set of two, House of Fraser, 318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; WOMAN © ISTOCK

THINKING INSIDE THE BOX Keep wedding rings safe in this enamel case Mr and Mrs Enamel Box, £150, Halcyon Days, 27 Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LP

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

Glorious gardens

In full bloom In February, there’s no escaping the fact that London is very much in the throes of winter: the trees of Hyde Park stand bare, creaking pubs stoke their fireplaces and only the heftiest coat will keep you warm. While there’s nothing like a warming stroll among crisp gardens, we wouldn’t blame you if your thoughts turn to hotter climes – Thailand, perhaps? Head southwest to Kew this month and you’ll find the best of both worlds. Returning for its 23rd year, Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew is unveiling its Orchids Festival (from 10 Feb) which this year is dedicated to Thailand. The country has been picked because it boasts a staggering 1,100 species of orchids (‘gluay mhai’ in Thai), which can be found everywhere from its tropical southern islands to the high-altitude realms of the north. Orchids across the world are becoming extinct faster than they can be classified and protected. They also remain one of the most widely traded plants in the world – in 2015, 42 per cent of the plants seized at Heathrow Airport were wild orchids. So this festival is a great way to raise awareness.

Taking place inside Kew’s Princess of Wales Conservatory, the first thing you’ll see as the greenhouse’s humidity envelopes you is a tunnel covered with Vanda orchids. This particularly extravagant variety of the flower has a deeply vibrant colouring and a fragrant scent. Amid a display of handmade Thai umbrellas and hanging bouquets, visitors then discover an ‘orchid palace’, inspired by Bang Pa-In Royal Palace, a retreat for Thai royalty near Bangkok. The Orchids Festival has steadily become a highlight of Kew Gardens’ calendar, with the festival celebrating not just the flowers, but also the wider culture of its theme. Orchid Lates includes the chance to watch traditional Thai dance, take cookery and cocktail classes, and listen to orchid experts. As well as Thailand’s finest orchids, the Princess of Wales Conservatory houses plants from 10 different climate zones, so explore it while you’re inside. Highlights include the Titan Arum, one of the world’s largest flowering structures, which emits a disgusting odour similar to rotting meat to attract flies. For full listing, turn to p, 27

ELTHAM PALACE & GARDENS Following a quiet January, south-east London’s majestic palace (above; p. 23) and 19-acre garden is back to full opening hours, just in time for the school half-term holidays. The Discoveries and Inventions workshops (12-16 Feb) will keep young minds busy, while parents can admire herbaceous borders designed by awardwinning Isabelle Van Groeningen.

CHELSEA PHYSIC GARDEN London’s oldest botanic garden (p. 22) celebrates the new season with Heralding Spring, a series of events which includes talks and tours by the head gardener (to 4 Feb). Nestled in a walled-off sanctuary next to the River Thames, the garden is home to around 5,000 species of plants.

ORCHIDS FESTIVAL © RBG, KEW; ELTHAM PALACE & GARDENS COURTESY OF ELTHAM PALACE & GARDENS

It may be cold and grey outside, but Kew Gardens is about to burst into life with a dazzling array of colourful orchids, says Neil Simpson

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The Society of the Golden Keys of Great Britain (Les Clefs d’Or) welcomes the world’s travel & tourism industry

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Preferred charity partner

Please visit the concierge desk during your stay - nobody knows the UK like Les Clefs d’Or.

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SIGHTSEEING T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and last entry time. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73

SIGHTSEEING Apsley House This beautiful Georgian building was the London home of the first Duke of Wellington and has changed very little since his victory at Waterloo in 1815. It has grand interiors as well as fine art on display. Sat-Sun 10am-4pm. Adult £9.30; child £5.60. www.english-heritage.org.uk/apsleyhouse. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 0207499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

ArcelorMittal Orbit

Banqueting House

This 115m-tall observation tower, designed by Turner Prize-winning artist Sir Anish Kapoor, offers 20-mile views over Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park (p. 27) and beyond. Adventurous types can abseil to the ground or whizz down its 178m tunnel slide, which is the world’s longest. Mon-Fri 11am-5pm; Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.arcelormittalorbit.com. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333-800 8099. Off map. Station: Stratford.

This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for King James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by Baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. Daily 10am-5pm, but call before visiting. Adult £6.50; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.

The British Library The world’s largest library, with a great permanent collection, temporary exhibitions and many events. To 28 Feb: Harry Potter: A History of Magic. Rare books, manuscripts and magical objects from the library’s collection. To 13 May: Listen: 140 Years of Recorded Sound. Immersive collection including rare recordings and old equipment. Please check for times. Admission free; charges for tours, some events and exhibitions. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Buckingham Palace The London residence and principal workplace of the monarchy has 775 rooms. It’s closed to the public, except in summer, though the state rooms are open on 2, 3 & 4 Feb for an exclusive guided tour. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

Changing the Guard Watch the Changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather). During the ceremony, one regiment takes over from another. From 10am; check for dates. Free. www.householddivision.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

Chelsea Physic Garden London’s oldest botanic garden was founded in 1673. Admire 5,000 species of plants, including medicinal varieties and tropical plants in glasshouses. Free daily tours (p. 20). Daily Mon-Fri 11am-4pm. Adult £6.10; child £4.40. www.chelsea physicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

Chiswick House & Gardens

Free entry for Friends of the RA Green Park, Piccadilly Circus

Anthony van Dyck (1599–1641), Charles I in Three Positions (detail), 1635–36. Oil on canvas, 84.4 x 99.4 cm. RCIN 404420. Royal Collection Trust / © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2018.

Cutty Sark This 19th-century ship is the world’s last surviving tea clipper. Interactive displays on deck, afternoon tea under the hull and familyfriendly events. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £13.50; child £7. Joint tickets with Royal Observatory available. www.rmg.co.uk/cuttysark. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

ENJOY A ROYAL DAY OUT OF DAZZLING ART AT TWO MAGNIFICENT EXHIBITIONS

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27 January — 15 April 2018

Manor house with restored 18th-century gardens. From 22 Feb: Camellia Show. See rare and historic camellias in the Grade I-listed conservatory. Please check for times. www.chgt.org.uk. Chiswick House & Gardens, Burlington Lane, W4 2RP. T: 0208995 0508. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park.

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SIGHTSEEING Dennis Severs’ House

Handel & Hendrix in London

HMS Belfast

Ten rooms, from the cellar to the attic, illustrate the life of a family of Huguenot silk weavers from the 17th to 19th century. Silent night tour Mon; Wed & Fri 5pm-9pm. Daytime tour Mon noon-2pm & Sun noon-4pm. Tickets £5-£15. www.dennissevers house.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

The former homes of Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. See where Handel lived and composed for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom restored to how it was in 1968 and 1969. 9 Feb: Hendrix House Party. Sixties-themed party honouring the Axis Bold as Love album. 23 Feb: Handel’s birthday will be celebrated with 15-minute recitals on the hour, every hour, from 11am-4pm. Mon-Sat 11am-6pm. Check for full event details, times and prices. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhendrix.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. In service until 1965, it’s now a reminder of Britain’s naval heritage. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £15.45; child £7.70. www.iwm. org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Dr Johnson’s House Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his debut English dictionary, first published in 1755, in this 18th-century period home. Check for staged performances, talks and tours. Current exhibition, Johnson & Garrick: A Friendship in Constant Repair, explores the life of David Garrick, the famous 18th-century actor and theatre manager. Mon-Sat 11am-5pm. Adult £6; child £2.50. www.drjohnsons house.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 0207353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane.

Eltham Palace & Gardens

Houses of Parliament See the stunning art and architecture inside this working parliament building which is also a royal palace. Tours every Sat, plus weekdays 9 and 13-16 Feb. Advance: audio tour adult £18.50, child £7.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY BUCKINGHAM PALACE

Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s – it’s part showpiece of Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace (p. 20). 12-16 Feb: Discoveries and Inventions. Workshops exploring exciting inventions. Check for times. Adult £14.40; child £8.60. www.englishheritage.org.uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.

Fulham Palace This 15th-century building was the summer retreat of the Bishops of London and is now a museum with a café, art gallery, gardens and themed tours. To 15 Apr: Fulham Palace through Postcards. See a variety of postcards relating to the palace. Museum, historic rooms and shop Mon-Thur 12.30pm-3.30pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulhampalace.org. Bishop’s Ave, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.

Go Ape Alexandra Palace Treetop obstacle course with ladders, bridges and zip lines atop a hill, which has beautiful views of London. There’s a boating lake nearby. Fri-Sun from 9am; open all week 12-18 Feb. Please check for prices. www.goape.co.uk. Alexandra Palace, Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 0330057 2329. Off map. Station: Alexandra Palace.

Go Ape Battersea Park Treetop adventure playground. Weekends only, and 9-19 Feb inclusive, from 8.30am. Adult £35; child £27. www.goape.co.uk. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

Ham House and Gardens One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses has gardens that are said to be haunted. First floor closed until 1 Apr. Specialist tours of house at noon and 12.30pm, general admission 1-4pm. Garden daily 10am-4pm. Adult £10.80; child £5.40. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ham-house-and-garden. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.

SPECIAL JOINT TICKET Enjoy two exhibitions from the Royal Collection, only £29 including tea and cake BOOK ONLINE roy.ac/cake

8 DECEMBER 2017 – 13 MAY 2018

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SIGHTSEEING £25.50, child £11; family guided tour adult £18.50, child free. On the day: audio tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £28, child £12.www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.

The Jewel Tower Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Sat-Sun 10am-4pm. Adult £5; child £3. www.englishheritage.org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.

Keats House

Pick up a pancake! Pancake Day, or Shrove Tuesday (13 Feb), is a wonderful excuse to eat as many pancakes as is humanly possible. On the day before Lent, the tradition goes that pancakes are made to use up the last of any eggs and fats before 40 days of fasting. My Old Dutch (in Chelsea, Kensington and Holborn) is one of London’s best pancake houses, while Where the Pancakes Are in Flat Iron Square near London Bridge is another great option. Head to the Houses of Parliament’s Victoria Tower Gardens at 10am for the annual Parliamentary Pancake Race (above), when politicians and journalists race each other while tossing pancakes in pans. This eccentric event raises money for Rehab, a brain injury charity.

This 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books, letters and household items, plus the engagement ring he gave to his sweetheart Fanny Brawne (p. 12). Check for regular literature events and free family activity days. Wed-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/things-to-do/ keats-house. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Kensington Palace This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens, was Princess Diana’s last home and is currently where Prince Harry and Meghan Markle reside (p. 16). Diana: Her Fashion Story. An exhibition dedicated to the style of the ‘people’s princess’. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £17; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

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SIGHTSEEING Kenwood This house and its landscaped gardens on the edge of Hampstead Heath is a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adams’ interiors and the art collection. Daily 10am-4pm. Free admission. www.englishheritage.org.uk. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

KidZania London Parents take a back seat here as children take charge. Three times the size of Trafalgar Square, KidZania has everything a child could dream of including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory and an aviation academy – there’s even a tattoo parlour. The early years area means that

younger siblings will have fun, too. Daily from 10am, check for closing times. Closed 5-6 and 26-27 Feb. Check for prices. www.kidzania.com. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Off map. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

The London Bridge Experience & Tombs An exciting insight into the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects and costumed actors bring this spine-tinglingly scary attraction to life. Tickets also include the London Tombs, under the bridge, which are located in a former plague pit. Check for times and prices. www.thelondon bridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The London Dungeon This thrilling and rather gruesome attraction heads back to the capital’s perilous past. See, hear and feel the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life with costumed characters. Not for small children. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, Shrek’s Adventure!, Coca-Cola London Eye and Madame Tussauds. Check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. F8. Station: Waterloo/Embankment.

Coca-Cola London Eye This London icon on the River Thames is one of the world’s largest observation wheels. Interactive screens in each pod give an insight into the iconic landmarks on view. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, Shrek’s Adventure!, London Dungeon and Madame Tussauds. Check for times and prices. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

ZSL London Zoo Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 species. Enjoy the aquarium and penguin beach, and meet the huge Galapagos tortoises and Komodo dragon. Venture to see endangered Sumatran tigers, plus see Asiatic lions in the Land of the Lions enclosure, which is designed to resemble an Indian national park. Into Africa has unusual animals including okapis. Check for regular feeding times, talks by the zookeepers and Meet the Animals sessions. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £22.73; child £17.73. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.

Madame Tussauds The celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, from the Queen to Adele. Don’t miss the permanent Star Wars exhibition, with 11 sets from the films, and an animatronic head from the Kong: Skull Island movie. Detective fans will enjoy The Sherlock Holmes Experience as well as the evening show The Game’s Afoot, an immersive attraction. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Coca-Cola London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! Check for times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madame tussauds.com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-894 3000. C6. Station: Baker Street.

The Monument This beautiful stone column standing in the heart of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery for magnificent views of the City of London and beyond. Daily 9.30am5pm. Adult £5; child £2.50. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.the monument.org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.

The O2 Huge venue for entertainment and exhibitions. To 4 Feb: Elvis on Tour. Exhibition on Elvis Presley with 200 artefacts from the Graceland archives from 1969 to 1977. From 9.30am. Tickets £12-£25. Nissan Innovation Station. Take a virtual test drive in an electric Nissan LEAF and experience Nissan’s Motorsports Training Lab, which allows you to test your stamina and reactions against other NISMO athletes. Free. Daily noon-8pm. www.the o2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich. 26 W H E R E LO N D O N I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

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SIGHTSEEING Old Royal Naval College

The Royal Observatory

SEA LIFE London Aquarium

This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training, with costumed characters and tours. Don’t miss the magnificent ceiling in the Painted Hall. There’s a museum about the history of Greenwich at the Visitor Centre. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

The home of Greenwich Mean Time and London’s only planetarium, which has regular astronomy workshops and Observatory tours. Learn about time in the Peter Harrison Galleries and watch shows about the planets. The Sky Tonight. Daily planetarium show that explores the Moon, constellations, planets and deep space objects. 9 & 14 Feb: A Valentine’s Evening under the Stars. Enjoy a romance-themed planetarium show and gaze through the huge Victorian telescope. Adult £8; child £5.50. Meridian Line and Observatory daily 10am-5pm. Adult £10; child £6.50. www.rmg. co.uk. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

One of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a glass walkway above 16 sharks, and jellyfish tanks. You can also snorkel with sharks (£130). Please check for times and prices. Joint tickets available with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! www.sealife.co.uk. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.

18 Stafford Terrace This furnished Victorian townhouse gives a fascinating insight into the personal lives of the Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne and his wife Marion, their two children and their live-in servants, who lived here from 1875. A highlight is a costumed actor-led tour, on which you’ll meet Mrs Sambourne or her parlour maid Mrs Reffell for a dramatic account based on old diaries. Wed, Sat-Sun pre-booked tours 11am, or drop in 2pm-5.30pm. There are two extra actor-led tours planned for half-term week on Mon 12 Feb, 11am and 2pm. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Shrek’s Adventure! Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairytale-themed shows where

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this huge park includes an aquatics centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower (p. 22). Please check the website for sporting and cultural events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queen elizabetholympicpark.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe, with Victorian tropical greenhouses and a Chinese pagoda. Walking along the Treetop Walkway offers great views. Look out for the early spring flowers such as crocuses. From 10 Feb: International Garden Photographer of the Year Exhibition. The Nash Conservatory showcases the winners and the runners-up from this prestigious competition. From 10 Feb: Orchids Festival. The annual show returns to the Princess of Wales Conservatory, this year celebrating Thailand’s vibrant plant life and culture (p. 20). Daily from 10am, please check for closing times; Kew Palace closed until 29 Mar. Adult £17; child £5; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 0208332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

The Royal Institution of Great Britain Grade I-listed Georgian building housing a museum about the institution’s 15 Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Visit its free Faraday Museum and you can see scientists at work, too. Check the website for its programme of talks. Mon-Fri 8am-6pm. Admission free; charges for talks. www.rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park.

The Royal Mews Built by John Nash in 1825, this beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses, including the Diamond Jubilee State Coach. Witness daily life and learn about The Mews’ history (p. 32). Mon-Sat 10am-4pm. Adult £11; child £6.40. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria. www.wheretraveler.com 27

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SIGHTSEEING you can meet the characters from the muchloved films. Joint tickets with the Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and SEA LIFE London Aquarium available. Please check for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreksadventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo.

St Katharine Docks

St James’s Palace

Landmark Palladian church with tours, a brass-rubbing centre and live classical music (some free). Holy Communion given daily and classical music performed weekly by candlelight. 12 Feb: Faith in the Questions. An evening showcase for a new one-act play about a Christian scientist,

One of London’s oldest palaces, constructed in the 14th century and home to royalty for three centuries. Palace and house closed to the public. www.royal.gov.uk. Marlborough Rd, SW1A 1BS. E7. Station: St James’s Park.

This central London marina dates back to the 11th century and is tucked away by the Tower of London. The vibrant waterside destination is lined with markets, shops, galleries and restaurants. www.skdocks.co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

Counting the Clouds. Followed by an audience discussion with scientific thinkers and practitioners (check online for free tickets). Please check for opening times. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

St Martin-in-the-Fields

St Paul’s Cathedral Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama. Then head down to the crypt, with its monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. Don’t miss Oculus: An Eye into St Paul’s, a 270-degree film experience, for an excellent overview. Free tours. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls. co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 0207246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.

Tower Bridge Exhibition

THE ULTIMATE FOOTBALL EXPERIENCE G O B EHI ND T HE SCENES AT STA M F ORD BRI DGE

This breathtaking bridge, designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks (not to be confused with its less grand, but much older, neighbour, London Bridge). You can also tour the engine rooms with a knowledgeable guide and do yoga on the glass walkways, 42m above the River Thames. Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £9.80; child £4.20. Check for bridge lift times. www.tower bridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Tower of London This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the dazzling Crown Jewels. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). Daily; please check for times. Adult £24.80; child £11.50. www.hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Up at The O2 Prepare for an unforgettable 90-minute experience which will take you on an uplifting expedition across the roof of The O2. From the viewing platform at the top you can enjoy spectacular 360-degree views of the River Thames, Emirates Air Line, Canary Wharf and beyond. Please check for times and wheelchair access. From £30. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

The View from The Shard

Save 10% off walk-up bookings, by quoting WHERE LONDON when you arrive at the Tours Reception.

To book, plea se call 0371 811 1955, email tours@chelseafc.com or visit chelseafc.com/stadium-tours For full terms and conditions, plea se visit w w w.chelseafc.com

Ascend the slick Shard, the tallest building in Western Europe, in a high-speed lift. At 309m up, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit again for free. Check for yoga (Sat 8.30am) and silent discos (Sat). Please check for times and prices. www.theviewfromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Warner Bros. Studio Tour London Explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry Potter films in The Making of Harry Potter tour. Visitors can witness iconic sets including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾. It’s a great insight into the intricacies of filmmaking. 9-19 Feb: Introducing the Art Department. The Studio welcomes members of the Harry Potter Art Department, who will be

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SIGHTSEEING demonstrating a range of filmmaking techniques as well as live wand-making demonstrations. Please check for times. Adult £41; child £33. Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.

Wellington Arch Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £5; child £3. www.englishheritage.org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

aquabatics all in one. Departs from Westminster Pier. From 10.30am, but depends on the tide so please check for times. Minimum height requirement 1.35m/4ft 5in. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. T: 020-7740 0400.

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top double-decker buses. Tickets are valid for 24 hours. A one-day orientation tour includes three walking tours. Adult £35; child £18. www.bigbustours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753.

Big Bus Walking Tours Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk from Trafalgar Square, along Carlton Gardens, The Mall and through St James’s Park to Horse Guards Parade, taking in areas which can’t be reached by bus. Free with Big Bus London Tour tickets. Daily 11am. www.bigbustours.com. Departs from Big Bus stop six, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Charing Cross.

Capital Taxi Tours A Blue Badge or City of London-qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people. Choose from London tours by day or night, trips outside the city and themed tours including a Doctor

Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner, the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. Mon-Fri 9.30am-4.30pm; Sat 9.30am-2.30pm. Adult £22; child £9. www.westminster-abbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.

WINNER OF THE TOP HORROR ATTRACTION IN THE WORLD WORLDWIDE ATTRACTION AWARDS

WWT London Wetland Centre This 104-acre wildlife reserve has a Water’s Edge Café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens which are home to more than 100 species of rare and wild birds. Otters are fed daily at 11am and 2pm. 10-18 Feb: Dusty’s Puddle-Jumping Championships. Children of all ages are encouraged to have fun jumping around in the puddles. Daily 9.30am4.30pm. Adult £12.26; child £6.75. www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes.

RIVER TRIPS City Cruises Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, Waterloo, Tower and Greenwich piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. Thames Circular Cruise is a 50-minute sightseeing service from Tower Pier or Bankside Pier to Westminster and back. London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music Fri-Sat. Other cruises available. Check for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. T: 020-7740 0400.

IMMER AND A H SIVE THEATRE EAR SCAR T PUMPING

London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Daily 11.45am-4.45pm. Adult £13.15; child £6.50. Discounted joint tickets with London Eye available. www.londoneye.com. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

MBNA Thames Clippers The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 22 piers across the capital. Discounts with Oyster cards and contactless payment. Download its free in:flow app, which uses GPS tracking to provide a real-time audio explanation of the sights. River Roamer hop-on-and hop-off advance adult £16.30, child £8.15; on the day adult £19, child £9.50. Under fives travel for free. www.mbnathamesclippers.com. T: 020-7001 2200.

Thamesjet Try Thames Rush, a 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience – the most extreme ride on the river – and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome

E MAZ E!

TAKE AN INTERACTIVE JOURNEY THROUGH LONDONS SPOOKY HISTORY

TheLondonBridgeExperience.com The London Bridge Experience, 2-4 Tooley Street, London Bridge, London SE1 2SY FREE audio guides available

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SIGHTSEEING Who trip – on which you’ll see a Tardis – and a tour for Downton Abbey fans. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621.

The Design Museum

Evan Evans The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle to Stonehenge, as well as all the London sights. Check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.

Natural History Museum Museum of London

Golden Tours From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London experts offer quality tour experiences from London to popular locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Leeds Castle. The company has an unrivalled range of tours and services. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours

The Horniman Museum

FREE London museums There’s no need to spend a lot of money to fill your time in London. Many of the city’s best and biggest attractions are completely free to enter – take a look at our selection of London’s top free museums SOUTH KENSINGTON’S MUSEUMS During Queen Victoria’s reign, her husband Prince Albert built world-class museums right next to each other in South Kensington. See prehistoric fossils, dinosaurs and taxidermy at the Natural History Museum, or head to the child-friendly Science Museum with its rockets and steam engines. The Victoria and Albert Museum is a leading museum of art and design, covering architecture, furniture, fashion and photography. www.nhm.ac.uk; www.sciencemuseum.org.uk; www.vam.ac.uk

THE BRITISH MUSEUM, BLOOMSBURY This iconic building houses treasures including the Rosetta Stone and Egyptian mummies. Travel through time and around the world with a free paper guide in hand so you don’t miss the highlights. www.britishmuseum.org

THE DESIGN MUSEUM, KENSINGTON This museum offers an introduction to the history of contemporary design with the

free display Designer Maker User, and opportunities to explore the present and future of design through pop-ups and temporary exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org

MUSEUM OF LONDON, THE CITY This is the world’s largest urban history museum with thousands of exhibits in nine galleries, including Roman and Medieval displays. Its sister museum in east London, the Museum of London Docklands, offers an insight into this historic area of the capital. www.museumoflondon.org.uk

THE HORNIMAN MUSEUM, FOREST HILL This is the former home of the Victorian Londoner Frederick John Horniman, who was a tea trader and philanthropist. Explore his huge collection of objects, specimens and artefacts from all over the world. There’s an aquarium, butterfly house and a music gallery, as well as a 16-acre garden. www.horniman.ac.uk

GoToMidtown Tours More than 100 themed 45-minute free tours around Bloomsbury and Holborn. Most walks do not require pre-booking. 10am and 1pm walks start at the orange information kiosk outside Holborn Tube station; 11am, 2pm and 5.30pm walks start at the red sculpture in the courtyard of Central St Giles. www.bee-midtown.org. T: 020-7078 7077.

Jack the Ripper Tour Popular two-hour walk, offering an intriguing look at the infamous serial killer. Numbers are limited in order to give participants a better experience. Booking essential. Daily 7pm from outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East station. £10. www.jack-the-rippertour.com. T: 020-8530 8443.

The London Helicopter Tour Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with its uninterrupted views. Departing from London’s only heliport, glide above the Thames, taking in iconic landmarks including the Tower of London, St Paul’s Cathedral and The Shard. Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights, 30-minute Max tour or 18-minute ‘open door’ ride (£400 per person). Prices start at £150 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondonhelicopter.com. POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 020-7887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.

London Magical Tours Award-winning provider of private and scheduled group tours to London and its surroundings. Discover the UK with a professional guide and chauffeur, travelling in a private vehicle. Multilingual guides are available in all languages. www.londonmagicaltours.com. T: 0870-489 0156.

London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Each take around two hours, departure points vary and there’s no need to book. As well as Harry Potter and ghost walks, there are routes around London’s ‘villages’, including Kensington and Hampstead. Adult £10; child free with an adult. www.walks.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.

THE DESIGN MUSEUM © ALEX MORRIS VISUALISATION; NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM © ISTOCK; MUSEUM OF LONDON © MUSEUM OF LONDON; THE HORNIMAN MUSEUM COURTESY OF THE HORNIMAN MUSEUM. THERE MAY BE CHARGES FOR SOME SPECIAL EXHIBITIONS

Design Museum

See the sights aboard an open-top bus. Live guided (Essential Tour) or multilingual audio commentary (all routes) tours let you hop-on and hop-off. One-day, 24-hour and 48-hour tickets. Check for prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

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Neverland Children’s Tours Fully supervised activities and adventures for children aged eight and over, with the aim of making London sightseeing interactive and fun. Each guided activity is balanced by opportunities to get creative, chill out, play and meet new friends. Check for tours, times and prices. www.neverlandchildrenstours.co.uk.

London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night

See By Night

Original London Sightseeing Walk Walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre, near Trafalgar Square on Cockspur Street. Choose from Changing the Guard at 10am; Rock ‘n’ Roll at 1pm or Jack the Ripper at 4pm (from The Original Tour bus stop at Tower Hill). £9 per walk, or free with an Original London Sightseeing Tour ticket. An Explore Walks Pass grants access to all three walks over a 48-hour period. £18. www.the originaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

The Original Tour With more than 65 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions (and now in Windsor, too), allowing you to hop-on and hopoff at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes three free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult £32, child £15; 48-hour adult £42, child £20. To 28 Feb: All 24 and 48-hour tickets are extended by an extra 24 hours and include an extended Greenwich River Cruise. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Departing daily from Green Park bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel

at 19:30 and 21:20 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night

Adult - £18 Child - £10

Private tours available for groups day or night

Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744

www.seelondonbynight.com

Royal Albert Hall Tours Take a one-hour tour of this Victorian concert hall. Most days, but check for times. Adult £14; child £7. www.royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.

See London by Night Tour Ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital. Regular departures from outside The Ritz hotel. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm & 9.20pm. Adult £18; child £10. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.

Shakespeare’s Globe This reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre has one of the city’s only thatched roofs, while the Sam Wanamaker Playhouse is a candlelit performance space. Open daily, check for times. Exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £17; child £10. www.shakespeares globe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

Wembley Stadium Tours Go behind the scenes at this famous football stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour takes you inside the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel. From 10am; please check for dates. Adult £18; child £12. www.wembleystadium. com/wembley-tours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.

, Crelaotree, Exp ake M nds! frie

Fully supervised half and full day tours with movie nights in the evening. Theme parks, Museums, Photography workshops and more. Prices starting from £35.00 “My daughter has not stopped talking about it” – Sarah (one of our many happy parents)

Yonda On a Yonda tour, feel like a real Londoner as you drive a car around the capital’s top sights and lesser-known streets. The car is fitted with technology that guides you along well-researched routes, with commentary. Congestion Charge is included in the price. Please check for prices. www.goyonda.com. Q-Park, Park Lane, W1K 7AN. T: 020-3621 5662. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

T: UK (+44) 020 3239 5059

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SIGHTSEEING

OUT OF TOWN Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683. See archaeological artefacts, pre-Raphaelite paintings, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm. Free admission; charges for special exhibitions. www.ashmolean.org. Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278000. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford.

Blenheim Palace See three centuries of treasures in magnificent state rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. Please check for opening times. Adult £24.90; child £13.90. www.blenheim palace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810530. Off map. Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.

Hampton Court Palace Once the favourite royal residence of King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old maze is set in 60 acres of parkland on the river. Visit the huge Tudor kitchens, which would have prepared feasts for the king and all his courtiers, and see Henry’s grand state apartments. Daily 10am4.30pm. Adult £18; child £9. www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.

Leeds Castle Fairytale 900-year-old castle with a moat, gardens and parkland. Lose yourself in the spiralling yew maze, and see 100 species of birds in the aviary. 10-18 Feb: Half-Term Explorers. Young visitors can use an activity book to solve clues and spot wildlife around the grounds. Grounds and garden daily 10am-5pm; castle 10.30am-4pm. Adult £24.90; child £16.90. www.leeds-castle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622-765400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.

Osterley Park and House Explore this beautiful country home decorated as it would have been in the 1780s, then stroll its formal gardens or stop for a snack in the stable tearoom. Garden daily 10am-5pm; house closed until 23 Feb, then daily 11am-5pm. Adult £10.90; child £5.45. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/osterleypark-and-house. Jersey Rd, Isleworth, Middlesex, TW7 4RB. T: 020-8232 5050. Off map. Station: Osterley/Isleworth.

Palace of Holyroodhouse The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Tour highlights include the state apartments and Mary, Queen of Scots’ chamber. Daily 9.30am4.30pm. Adult £14; child £8.10. www.royal collection.org.uk. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley.

®

...for shops, restaurants, theatre bookings and sightseeing activities in the area

They would be happy to assist you so that you can enjoy the very best that London has to offer in the time that you have to spend with us

Return of The Mews Following its annual two-month closure, The Royal Mews at Buckingham Palace has reopened to the public (p. 27). As well as training the horses which pull the royal carriages, The Mews is also responsible for the Queen’s road transport, whether that be by car or carriage. A typical visit takes about an hour, during which time you’ll see the carriage horses and royal coaches, including the Gold State Coach (above), which has been used at every coronation since George IV’s in 1821. To commemorate Queen Elizabeth’s Diamond Jubilee in 2012, a black-and-gold coach was built – on display here, it looks like something from a fairytale, with a golden crown on its roof carved using oak from HMS Victory.

GOLD STATE COACH © ROYAL COLLECTION

where

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Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. With obscure Neolithic origins, it is perfectly aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. English Heritage members get exclusive early-morning tours. The visitor centre has an exhibition, shop and café. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £19.50; child £11.70. www.english-heritage. org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.

Westminster Abbey

THEY’RE ALL HERE BRITAIN’S GREATEST STORIES

Waddesdon Manor Renaissance-style chateau built in the late 19th century. Magnificent house and wine cellars, plus gardens and aviary. Wed-Sun; please check for times. The main rooms of the house are closed for conservation until Mar. Adult £10; child £5. www.waddesdonmanor.org. Near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, HP18 0JH. T: 01296-653226. Off map. Station: Marylebone to Aylesbury.

Warwick Castle This medieval castle was developed from an original built by William the Conqueror in 1068. The original wooden motte-and-bailey castle was rebuilt in stone in the 12th century. It’s now a family-friendly experience with landscaped gardens designed by ‘Capability’ Brown. Don’t miss the Horrible Histories maze and displays of medieval weaponry, as well as regular falconry displays. Check for times. Castle adult £19, child £17; castle & dungeon adult £23, child £20. www.warwick-castle.com. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. Off map. Station: Warwick.

Book online today for fast track discounted entry FREE AUDIO TOURS . CAFÉ AND RESTAURANT . CONCERTS AND LECTURES . SHOP

Watts Gallery Artists’ Village An Arts and Crafts gem in the beautiful Surrey Hills, with stunning Victorian paintings and sculptures. Don’t miss the Watts Cemetery Chapel, a beautiful and ornate terracotta building with intricate details. Tue-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £11.50 (Tue £5.75); child free. www.wattsgallery. org.uk. Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483-810 235. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi.

Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle – there is more than 900 years of royal history here. Highlights include the state apartments furnished with art by Rubens, Rembrandt and Canaletto, plus the Queen Mary’s Doll’s House, created in the 1920s, and a perfect miniature of everyday life. In the grounds, don’t miss St George’s Chapel and its stone ceiling, added by King Henry VIII – one of many royals buried here. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. Daily 9.45am-4.15pm. Adult £21.20; child £12.30. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.

LOSE YOURSELF IN THE

CROWN JEWELS

Discover the treasures that united the kingdom, secured in London’s castle, the Tower of London.

Woburn Abbey and Gardens Set in a 3,000-acre deer park, this historic house has been home to the earls and dukes of Bedford for nearly 400 years and is currently occupied by the 15th duke and his family. Tour the house to find out more about its family history, art and antiques, then stroll around its Repton-inspired gardens. The abbey is closed until 23 Mar; gardens, deer park, tea room and shop open Fri-Sun, 10am-4pm. Gardens and deer park adult £7.50; child £4.75. www.woburnabbey.co.uk. Woburn, Bedfordshire, MK17 9WA. T: 01525-290333. Off map Station: St Pancras to Flitwick.

Book online now to save Nearest tube Tower Hill

Royal Collection Trust © 2018, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from this image: SS Normandie in New York; the silk flapper dress worn by Emilie Grigsby; luggage used by the Duke and Duchess of Windsor

Sail away All aboard! Neil Simpson revisits some of the most famous cruise liners in the world at the V&A If you’re partial to a spot of nautical glamour, you’ll feel right at home at the Victoria and Albert Museum this month. Its new exhibition Ocean Liners: Speed & Style (from 3 Feb) sees the museum raise a crystal glass to the luxury and sheer drama of the cruise liner’s golden age. The V&A has been collecting ship-related material for more than 100 years, and now, in collaboration with the Peabody Essex Museum in Massachusetts, the museum has put together the first exhibition that considers the cultural impact of the ocean liner on an international scale. Studying liners that criss-crossed the oceans from the mid-1800s right up to the end of the 20th century, the exhibition showcases items which have never been displayed in Europe. The V&A has also reunited objects which have not been seen together since they were removed from their ships. Through these remarkable artefacts, Ocean Liners will tell the broader story of how each vessel became a symbol of national ingenuity, as countries competed to out-engineer each other.

Fashionistas can drift away on a wave of nostalgia with Marlene Dietrich’s Christian Dior suit, worn in 1950 by the movie star as she disembarked the MS Queen Elizabeth in New York. Another fashion highlight is a 1925 silk flapper ‘Salambo’ dress, decorated with glass beads and worn by Emilie Grigsby. This beautiful green garment illustrates the charmed life of Grigsby, a wealthy Manhattan socialite who cruised aboard the Olympic, Aquitania and Lusitania during the 1910s and 1920s. Glamour exists alongside tragedy in the history of the ocean liner, a juxtaposition brought to life by the exhibition’s 1909 Cartier tiara.. Encrusted with diamonds and pearls, it was worn by Lady Allan (the wife of a steamship company chairman) during the last voyage of the Lusitania in 1915. The ship was sent to the bottom of the sea by a German torpedo and while Allan made it to shore, her daughters were lost at sea. No such exhibition would be complete without the Titanic,, which provides another must-see item: the largest remaining fragment of the doomed liner is here, a Rococo wooden

panel found floating in the Atlantic. Torn from the first-class lounge as the ship split in half on 14 April 1912, the piece has been lent by Canada’s Maritime Museum. Of course, cruising is a strong force in modern-day tourism, too, and the glamour of the age continues to capture the imagination. The exhibition perfectly demonstrates this nostalgia through paintings, ship models, posters and film. For full listing, turn to p. 38

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73

MUSEUMS Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a peek inside the players’ changing rooms, tunnel and the Physio Room, or a Legends Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Please check for times and occasional closures. Self-guided: adult £20; child £10. Legends: adult from £40; child from £20.75. Museum only: adult £10; child £7. www.arsenal.com/tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 0207619 5000. Off map. Station: Arsenal.

Churchill War Rooms Explore the fortified secret bunker and the Cabinet War Rooms beneath Westminster, where prime minister Sir Winston Churchill worked during World War II to plot the Allied victory. See more about his life in the Churchill Museum. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £21; child £10.50. www.iwm. org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.

The Design Museum

One of the world’s leading museums of contemporary design and architecture. To 15 Apr: Ferrari: Chelsea FC is the only Bank of England Museum Under the Skin. Celebrating the 70th London football team Explore the story of the anniversary of Ferrari, with exhibits to have won the bank from its foundation in 1694 to about the cars’ manufacturing, Champions League its status today as the UK’s central design and engineering. Daily bank. There are books, silver, paintings, 10am-6pm. First Fri every month coins and photographs on display, plus 10am-8pm. Admission free; charges for modern gold bars and fun activities for kids. special exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org. 12-16 Feb: The Adventures of Toad. Stories from 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 the delightful The Wind in the Willows are brought 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington. to life by storytellers in costume; various times The Fan Museum throughout the day. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm. Unusual museum dedicated to the art of the fan, Admission free. www.bankofengland.co.uk/ from the 12th century to the present day. Tue-Sat museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 02011am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £4; child £3. 7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank. www.thefanmuseum.org.uk. 12 Crooms Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 020-8305 1441. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark. Benjamin Franklin House This charming 18th-century townhouse was the last remaining home of the American diplomat, inventor, Founding Father and musician, with tours led by costumed actors. Architectural tours Mon; historical shows Wed-Sun. Please check for times and prices. www.benjaminfranklinhouse.org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Fashion and Textile Museum Museum highlighting contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery from 1947 to the present day. From 9 Feb: T-Shirt: Cult, Culture, Subversion. Exploring the role of the T-shirt in 20th-century fashion (p. 38). Check for times. Adult £9.90; child free. www.ftmlondon.org. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 020-7407 8664. F11. Station: London Bridge.

Florence Nightingale Museum Located in St Thomas’ Hospital, learn about the work of the pioneering 19th-century British nurse and health reformer. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.80. www.florence-nightingale.co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7620 0374. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

The Foundling Museum Britain’s original home for abandoned children, founded in 1739 by Coram, Hogarth and Handel. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £8.25; child free. www.foundlingmuseum.org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square.

The Guards Museum The history, stories and regimental heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards: Grenadier, Coldstream, Scots, Irish and Welsh, which today watch over the Royal Palaces. It’s a great insight

FACING PAGE: SS NORMANDIE AND FLAPPER DRESS COURTESY OF VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM LONDON; LUGGAGE © PEABODY ESSEX MUSEUM. THIS PAGE: LUCIAN FREUD’S GIRL WITH A WHITE DOG © TATE, 2014

The British Museum Immense collection of antiquities, plus the Queen Elizabeth II Great Court. Permanent displays include the Roman Empire, Ancient Egypt, Medieval Europe and Ancient India. To 18 Mar: The Currency of Communism. A study of the changing roles of currency and exchange in Communist states in the century since the 1917 Russian Revolution. To 8 Apr: Living with Gods: Peoples, Places and Worlds Beyond. Ideas on what makes belief and faith a vital part of human behaviour. Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Charles Dickens Museum The former home of Victorian novelist Dickens, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist. Decorated in authentic Victorian style, it displays his personal possessions. Check for themed Dickensian walks. To 25 Feb: Ghost of an Idea: Unwrapping ‘A Christmas Carol’. The inspiration behind one of the author’s best-known works. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm; open until 8pm once a month, check for dates. Adult £9; child £4. www.dickens museum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 0207405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours Interactive tour of Chelsea FC, current Premier League champions, including the dressing rooms, dugout and pitch, plus the press box. Please check for times and prices. www.chelseafc.com/ tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871-984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

The art of life If you desire only the very best of British, we urge you to visit Tate Britain’s All Too Human (from 28 Feb; p. 41), which explores the efforts made by some of the country’s most celebrated painters to capture human life. Surveying art of the 20th century, the Tate has selected striking works including Lucian Freud’s Girl with a White Dog (above). This painting of his pregnant wife captures a highly personal moment in a romantic relationship. The grandson of psychoanalyst Sigmund Freud, it’s perhaps unsurprising that Lucian was interested in presenting life with such clarity. You’ll also find paintings by Francis Bacon; Three Figures and Portrait is here, depicting Bacon’s lover George Dyer, who committed suicide in 1971. This is the place to contemplate the human experience in art. www.wheretraveler.com 35

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Horniman Museum & Gardens Collection based upon the adventuring Victorian tea trader, Frederick John Horniman, including an aquarium and huge selection of musical instruments. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions. www.horniman.ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872. Off map. Station: Forest Hill.

Household Cavalry Museum Go behind the scenes to see the ceremonial duties and roles of the Household Cavalry Regiments. Troopers with their horses work in the original 18th-century stables, with rare treasures on display. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard on Horse Guards Parade Mon-Sat 11am; Sun 10am. Daily 10am-5pm. Please check for occasional closures. Adult £7; child £5. www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk. Horse Guards Parade, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster/Embankment.

Imperial War Museum Huge displays relating to global conflicts from World War I to conflicts today, especially those involving Britain. Don’t miss the powerful Holocaust Exhibition, and the art collection in the First World War Galleries. To 28 May: Age of Terror: Art Since 9/11. Artists, including Grayson Perry and Ai Weiwei, respond to war and conflict. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 0207416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North.

Jewish Museum Documenting Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today, including a lifelike representation of the Jewish East End immigrant quarter. The Holocaust Gallery provides a

harrowing collection of photographs and accounts. To 15 Apr: Designs on Britain. The influence of Jewish immigrant artists on prominent 20th-century designs. Daily 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Leighton House Museum The restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton is a museum of his life and work. Permanent collections include paintings, drawings and sculptures, plus the Arab Hall adorned with hundreds of tiles from the Middle East. Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm, tour at 3pm every Wed and Sun (included in ticket price). Leighton Lates (includes live music and free tour) on 9 Feb, 10am-9pm. Adult £9; child £7. www.leightonhouse.co.uk. 12 Holland Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.

London Film Museum

Museum of Brands, Packaging & Advertising More than 12,000 items from the Robert Opie Collection, revealing how lives have changed over the past 200 years through iconic consumer brands. Exhibits include toys, magazines, technology, travel and fashion. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9; child £5. www.museumofbrands.com. 111-117 Lancaster Rd, W11 1QT. T: 020-7243 9611. Off map. Station: Ladbroke Grove.

Museum of London The world’s largest urban history museum has thousands of exhibits in nine galleries, including Roman and Medieval London, transporting you through the capital’s tumultuous history to the present day. Regular family events. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions and walking tours. www.museum oflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.

Museum of London Docklands

Bond in Motion is the largest official exhibition of James Bond vehicles that feature in the renowned film series, including the classic Aston Martin DB5, Goldfinger’s Rolls-Royce and the Crocodile Submarine. It also features unique artwork from the production company. Sun-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-7pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.london filmmuseum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7202 7042. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

The history of the River Thames, from its time as a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of the Docklands area. Ten galleries include London, Sugar & Slavery, charting the history of the transatlantic slave trade. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museumof london.org.uk. T: 020-7001 9844. Off map. Station: Canary Wharf/West India Quay.

London Transport Museum

National Maritime Museum

Located in the Grade II-listed Flower Market, the museum displays the story of London’s transport system. Highlights include iconic red buses, the world’s first Underground steam train and a padded cell – a train carriage dating back to the 1890s. To Jan 2019: Poster Girls. Spotlight on female graphic designers in the 20th and 21st centuries, who created posters for London Transport. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. www.ltmuseum. co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 0207379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

The world’s largest maritime museum, with 10 galleries including the Nelson, Navy, Nation gallery exploring the life of the naval hero, plus The Great Map – a huge interactive world map revealing stories from maritime history. Check for regular family events. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for events and exhibitions. www.rmg. co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.

The original selfie A tribute to the 17th-century Spanish painter Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, The National Gallery’s Murillo: The SelfPortraits (from 28 Feb; p. 40) explores the only self-portraits of the artist that have been discovered. The youngest of 14 siblings, Murillo was born in southern Spain but moved to Madrid at the age of 26, where his painting style was influenced by that of Spain’s famous Diego Velázquez. Murillo liked to focus on the clash between shadows and light, which can be seen in his two self-portraits. The exhibition reunites these self-portraits to mark 400 years since Murillo’s birth. If you’re a fan of the Baroque master, don’t miss this.

Natural History Museum Astounding collections at this huge museum, with exhibits ranging from the Images of Nature gallery to dinosaur skeletons and fossils. To 28 Feb: Whales: Beneath the Surface. Major exhibition about whales, dolphins and porpoises, with skeletons, flippers and skulls. It’s celebrating the arrival of Hope, the blue whale skeleton, in Hintze Hall. To 28 May: Wildlife Photographer of the Year. The 100 best images from the annual competition, illustrating the beauty of animals plus the vulnerability of life on our planet. To 13 May: Venom: Killer and Cure. The world’s most venomous creatures. Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 0207942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Queen’s House This 17th-century house, an architectural masterpiece by Inigo Jones, boasts 22 lavish rooms displaying a stunning fine art collection spanning 400 years, including works by Gainsborough and Hogarth. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.rmg.co.uk/queens-house. Queen’s House, Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 0208858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Royal Air Force Museum National aviation museum focusing on the Royal Air Force, with more than 100 outstanding aircraft on show, including a life-sized model of the F-35 fighter jet. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.rafmuseum.org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.

MURILLO © THE FRICK COLLECTION NEW YORK

into the Changing the Guard ceremony. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £6; child free. www.the guardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park/Westminster.

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Want to feel the weight of the Championships trophies? Interested in watching an interactive ghost of John McEnroe? Keen to cast your eyes over Andy Murray’s title-winning whites?

Fall in love with Wimbledon

Then step inside the multi-dimensional journey that is Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum. With complimentary audio guides in 10 languages, learn about the history of the sport, see the Championship trophies, and the amazing new Virtual Reality experience. You may also take the behind the scenes tour of the grounds and explore the home of tennis, including Centre Court, for a truly inspirational visit.

Open Daily: 10:00am until 5:00pm Nearest Underground: Southfields The Museum Building, The All England Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club, Church Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE Supported by

T: 020 8946 6131 | wimbledon.com/museum

New Virtual Reality experience

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

T-shirts broadcast who we are and who we want to be. Well, they do according to the Fashion and Textile Museum. Its new exhibition T-Shirt: Cult, Culture, Subversion (from 9 Feb; p. 35) races across the 2th century with garments in every guise, from pyjama tops all the way through to the studio of Vivienne Westwood. Also in the spotlight is fashion designer Katharine Hamnett, who made a political statement in the 198s with her top emblazoned with ‘58% don’t want Pershing’, in reference to the then Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher’s unwelcome decision to allow US Pershing nuclear missiles to be stationed in Britain (left). The humble T-shirt has played a role in everyone’s life, making this exhibition an intriguing insight into the development of the modern clothing industry.

Science Museum A huge museum dedicated to science, technology and medical achievements, including a Red Arrows 3-D simulator and the IMAX theatre, which shows 3D science films. To 31 Mar: Illuminating India. A celebration of India’s contribution to science, technology and mathematics. To 30 Jun: Wounded: Conflict, Casualties and Care. Exhibition commemorating the human impact of World War I. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 4000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Sherlock Holmes Museum Famous address dedicated to the fictional detective, where he lived with his friend and colleague Dr Watson from 1881 to 1904. The Victorian house has been maintained exactly as described in author Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s thrilling stories, including its first-floor study overlooking Baker Street. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £15; child £10. www.sherlock-holmes.co.uk. 221b Baker St, NW1 6XE. T: 020-7224 3688. A3. Station: Baker Street.

Sir John Soane’s Museum This 19th-century townhouse and library was owned by the distinguished architect Sir John Soane, which he left to the nation in 1837 and has been left untouched since. It houses a gem of his collection which he amassed from around the world, plus his own architectural drawings and Hogarth’s satirical artworks (view by appointment). To 15 Apr: Egypt Uncovered: Belzoni and the Tomb of Pharaoh Seti I. The story behind the museum’s most

treasured possession, on the 200th anniversary of its discovery. Please check for tours and late-night opening events. Wed-Sun 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.

Somerset House This 18th-century neo-classical building on the Thames houses the famous Courtauld Gallery, Embankment Galleries, cafés and restaurants. To 4 Feb: North: Fashioning Identity. A look at how photographers and designers captured the essence of mid-20th-century North of England life, style and fashions. To 6 May: Chloe Lamford: Show Room. The stage designer transforms the Great Arch Hall. Galleries Wed-Fri 11am-8pm; Sat-Tue 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somerset house.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Station: Temple.

The Garden Museum Located in a historic church, this is the resting place of plant hunters John Tradescant Snr and Jnr, with artefacts, a replica 17th-century knot garden and exhibitions related to garden design. Permanent exhibition on local history, plus regular talks, events, shop and café. To 25 Mar: John Brookes: The Man who Made the Modern Garden. Celebrating the work of the author, who has designed private and public gardens around the world. Sun-Thur 10.30am-5pm; Sat 10.30am-4pm. Closed first Mon of the month. Adult £10; child £2.50 (when accompanied by an adult). www.gardenmuseum. org.uk. Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7LB. T: 020-7401 8865. F5. Station: Lambeth North/Westminster.

The flagship store of Twinings since 1706 has a small exhibition reflecting the company’s 300-year history. See vintage teapots and caddies, plus the original Royal Warrant signed by Queen Victoria in 1837. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7pm; Sat 10.30am-5.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.twinings. co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

Victoria and Albert Museum The V&A’s outstanding collection of global fine and applied arts spans 3,000 years and includes fashion, paintings, photographs and ceramics. From 3 Feb: Ocean Liners: Speed & Style. Paying tribute to the golden age of the cruise liner (p. 34). To 18 Feb: Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion. Exhibition about the Spanish designer Cristóbal Balenciaga, and his influence on fashion. To 25 Feb: Opera: Passion, Power and Politics. In partnership with the Royal Opera House, this exhibition explores the vivid culture of opera over 400 years while focusing on six specific eras and cities. To 8 Apr: Winnie-the-Pooh: Exploring a Classic. This multi-sensory exhibition tells the story of AA Milne’s honey-loving creation with rare photos and original manuscripts. Daily 10am-5.45pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.

The Wallace Collection The former Wallace family home displays their beautiful collection of Rococo art, sculpture, furniture and suits of armour. Paintings include Fragonard’s 18th-century masterpiece The Swing, plus Frank Hals’ Laughing Cavalier. Don’t miss the spectacular collection of armour, plus intricate metalwork and miniatures. Free tours on selected dates. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Wellcome Collection Wellcome Trust’s public venue housing hundreds of fascinating artefacts relating to health and the body. Including permanent exhibitions Medicine Now and Medicine Man, the personal collection of Sir Henry Wellcome with antique items of medical equipment. Regular talks and tours. To 8 Apr: Ayurvedic Man: Encounters with Indian Medicine. Exploring the movement of medical knowledge across the continents, over the centuries. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.wellcome collection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 0207611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.

Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours At the venue of the famous Championships, the museum’s displays range from old trophies and rackets to famous tennis kits from recent champions, plus touch screens to watch past greats in action. Look out for the ‘ghost’ of John McEnroe, and the virtual-reality 360-degree experience narrated by Tim Henman. To 4 Mar: On Air: Wimbledon and the BBC 1927-2017. Fascinating exhibition to celebrate BBC’s radio and TV live broadcasting of the Championships for 90 years. Tours of the grounds include the pristine Centre Court. Check for times and prices. www.wimbledon. com/museum. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields, then bus 493 or a short walk.

MARGARET THATCHER AND KATHARINE HAMNETT © PA ARCHIVE/PA IMAGES

Frock ‘n’ roll

Twinings Museum

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Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay Is Just a Touch Away Put the power of WhereÂŽ in the palm of your hand. Our Where Traveler City Guide app gives you instant access to thousands of hand-picked recommendations for things to do and places to go in destinations all over the world. Download it today for iPhone and Android.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

GALLERIES Barbican Art Gallery

See Ashraf Hanna’s Undulating Vases at Collect at Saatchi Gallery

Multi-arts venue with two exhibition spaces. From 7 Feb: Yto Barrada: Agadir. The Moroccan artist displays photography, film and sculpture on the theme of human resistance. Please check for times and prices. www.barbican. org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican.

Ben Uri Gallery The London Jewish Museum of Art houses more than 1,000 works, plus regular talks and events. To 11 Feb: A Farewell to Art: Chagall, Shakespeare and Prospero. Drawing connections between the playwright and the modernist artist. Check for times. Admission free. www.benuri.org.uk. 108a Boundary Rd, off Abbey Rd, NW8 0RH. T: 0207604 3991. Off map. Station: Kilburn High Road.

The Courtauld Gallery

Dulwich Picture Gallery England’s first public art gallery, designed by Sir John Soane and founded in 1811, holds a great collection of Old Masters. To 7 May: David Milne: Modern Painting. The first major exhibition about the Canadian painter. Please check for times and prices. www.dulwichpicturegallery.org.uk. Gallery Rd, SE21 7AD. T: 020-8693 5254. Off map. Station: West Dulwich/North Dulwich.

Estorick Collection Bijou gallery in a Grade II-listed Georgian building, specialising in modern Italian art. To 8 Apr: The Enchanted Room: Modern Works from the Pinacoteca di Brera. The gallery celebrates its 20th year with a showcase of works from Milan’s foremost public art gallery. Wed-Sat 11am-6pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.estorick collection.com. 39a Canonbury Square, N1 2AN. T: 020-7704 9522. Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington.

ICA (Institute of Contemporary Arts)

The Photographers’ Gallery

Exhibitions of contemporary art and installations, plus a café/bar, bookshop and art-house cinema. Tue-Sun 11am-11pm. Adult £1; child free. www.ica. org.uk. The Mall, SW1Y 5AH. T: 020-7930 3647. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Charing Cross.

London’s largest gallery devoted to photography. To 11 Feb: Instant Stories: Wim Wenders’ Polaroids. A rare look into the Oscarnominated filmmaker and his thought processes via his Polaroid photos. Please check for times and prices. Admission free before noon, then £4; child free. www.thephotographersgallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 020-7087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The National Gallery One of the world’s greatest galleries, with works by Western European masters from the 13th to 19th centuries. Regular tours, talks and workshops. To 18 Feb: Monochrome: Painting in Black and White. Journey through a history of monochrome with artists such as Rembrandt, Picasso and Richter. To 7 May: Drawn in Colour: Degas from the Burrell. Stunning paintings, pastels and drawings by the leading French Impressionist. From 28 Feb: Murillo: The Self-Portraits. The only known self-portraits by the Spanish master (p. 36). Daily 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.national gallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 0207747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

National Portrait Gallery

One of the nation’s most prominent galleries, more than 150 years old, with works depicting famous British people in paintings, drawings and photographs. To 8 Feb: Taylor Hayward Gallery Wessing Photographic Portrait Prize. Newly reopened after a major The first painting The finalists of this prestigious refurbishment and rebuilding, acquired by the National annual competition. To 11 Feb: the gallery is now flooded with Portrait Gallery was of Cézanne Portraits. More than 50 works, natural light. To 22 Apr: Andreas playwright William some of which have never previously Shakespeare Gursky. First UK retrospective of the been displayed in the UK, including German photographer, with large-scale paintings of his Uncle Dominique. Daily works portraying contemporary life. Please 10am-6pm; Thur & Fri 10am-9pm (regular Fri check for times and prices. www.southbankcentre. eve events). Admission free; charges for special co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo. 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Guildhall Art Gallery Paintings collected by the City of London since the 17th century, including pre-Raphaelite masterpieces. To 2 Apr: Nature Morte. Explore the transience of time and the problem of mortality as the 16th-century tradition of still life meets modern art. It also houses the Roman Amphitheatre, discovered in 1988 (free entry with gallery ticket). Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.

Newport Street Gallery Damien Hirst’s gallery with work from his extensive art collection. From 21 Feb: John Copeland: Your Heaven Looks Just Like My Hell. The American artist’s 25 paintings from 2009 to 2017. From 21 Feb: Rachel Howard: Repetition Is Truth – Via Dolorosa. Paintings from the British artist, exploring human rights abuses across the world. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.newportstreetgallery.com. Newport St, SE11 6AJ. T: 020-3141 9320. G8. Station: Vauxhall/ Lambeth North.

The Queen’s Gallery This smart gallery adjoining Buckingham Palace has temporary exhibitions, often sourced from 500 years of treasures from the Royal Collection. To 13 May: Charles II: Art & Power. Exhibition exploring the court of the Restoration monarch and the role of the arts in the re-establishment of the Stuarts, continuing the story begun by the Charles I exhibition at the Royal Academy of Arts. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £11; child £5.50. www.royalcollection.org.uk/visit/the-queensgallery-buckingham-palace. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park/Hyde Park Corner.

Royal Academy of Arts Attractive 18th-century building with RA Collection works in all media. To 11 Mar: From Life. Exploring the tradition of life drawing and its ongoing relationship with artists today. To 15 Apr: Charles I: King and Collector. Discover the legendary art collection of Charles I (see The Queen’s Gallery). Daily 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-10pm; check for regular special events. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.

Saatchi Gallery Contemporary art in a huge renovated Georgian building. All exhibitions are temporary, and usually free. 22-25 Feb: Collect. Event bringing together 39 galleries from four continents for a celebration of modern craft. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.saatchigallery.co.uk. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 020-7811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Serpentine Gallery This gallery in Kensington Gardens has modern and contemporary exhibitions. To 8 Feb: Wade Guyton: Das New Yorker Atelier, Abridged. Works large and small created using a combination of digital and

UNDULATING VASES COURTESY OF COLLECT/SAATCHI GALLERY

Important European art collection, plus temporary exhibitions, housed in Somerset House. To 15 Apr: Antoine Caron: Drawing for Catherine de’ Medici. Bringing together a celebrated collection of drawings executed by Caron in the 14th century, for the Queen of France. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £8; child free. www.courtauld.ac.uk. Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 0RN. T: 020-7848 2526. E8. Station: Embankment.

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physical tools, surveying the work of the last two years by the American artist. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentinegalleries.org. Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.

Serpentine Sackler Gallery Arts space near the Serpentine Gallery, formerly a gunpowder store, with a contemporary wing designed by Zaha Hadid. To 11 Feb: Rose Wylie: Quack Quack. Large-scale paintings by the British artist. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentinegalleries.org. West Carriage Drive, Kensington Gardens, W2 2AR. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.

Southbank Centre Huge arts space known for its concerts and performances. To 29 Apr: ABBA: Super Troupers. Musical exhibition and unique journey about the Swedish pop sensations ABBA, who were very popular in Britain in the 1970s. Using the voice of narrator Jarvis Cocker, this takes you through nine immersive rooms exploring their music and lives, with a rare chance to see costumes, photos and personal notes. Please check for times. Adult £15. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Tate Britain The nation’s leading collection of British art from 1500 to today, including the world’s largest collection of works by Turner. To 15 Apr: Marguerite Humeau: Echoes. A hypnotic yellow, large-scale installation from the London-based artist, designed as a confrontation between life and death. To 7 May: Impressionists in London – French Artists in Exile. How the artists who fled the Franco-Prussian War coped with life in London. From 28 Feb: All Too Human. Celebrating British painters who depicted the human experience (p. 35). Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate. org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.

LHM WhereLondon_February_Thirdpage_ FINAL.pdf 1 1/11/2018 10:48:49 AM

Tate Modern World-class international modern art in the former Bankside Power Station, now with a new wing. To 18 Feb: Red Star over Russia: A Revolution in Visual Culture 1905-55. A depiction C of the period up until the death of Stalin, by photographers, artists and designers. To 2 Apr:M Modigliani. A retrospective of the artist’s portraits and seductive nudes, including those banned Y a century ago. To 2 Apr: Superflex One, Two, Three, CM Swing! The Turbine Hall is full of swings by the Danish collective – you can play on them. Sun-Thur 10amMY 6pm; Fri-Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges CY for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.

Leighton House Museum

CMY

Whitechapel Gallery

K

Influential East End gallery, showcasing a range of contemporary art. To 4 Mar: Commissions from Performa’s Archive. Theatrical images from the New York-based arts organisation. To 4 Mar: Matt + Fiona: Room for Art. Revealing the creative process behind building an east London primary school’s new art room. From 14 Feb: Mark Dion: Theatre of the Natural World. The American artist’s installations since 2000, including a huge cabinet displaying items found on the banks of the Thames. Tue-Sun 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.whitechapel.org. 77-82 Whitechapel High St, E1 7QX. T: 020-7522 7888. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE A flamenco dancer

Dju-Dju

Stamp of approval The annual Flamenco Festival London (14 Feb), which illustrates the gypsy roots is returning to Sadler’s Wells Theatre of flamenco. Singers Carmen Linares and (14-25 Feb), celebrating the folk guitar Marina Heredia perform with rising songwriter music, singing, foot stamping and palmas Arcángel, dancer Ana Morales and guitarists – or handclapping – that originated in Miguel A Cortés, Bolita and Paquito González. Andalusia in southern Spain in the 1500s. Hot on their heels is Maria Pagés Now in its 15th year, the festival brings seven Compañia in Yo Carmen (15-17 Feb), who shows of flamenco dance and music to the will perform with 14 flamenco artists in capital. Artistic director and CEO Alistair a dance inspired by the woman behind Spalding says: ‘This year’s shows focus Prosper Mérimée’s novel – which on strong women in flamenco and influenced Bizet’s opera Carmen. their stories. We aim to include But Yo Carmen isn’t the only a range of performances, so performance that will be audiences who have never inspired by another art form. Flamenco had a Golden Age seen flamenco before and As the name suggests, Painter in which it spread from Andalusia to other areas those who are familiar with and Flamenco: JRT (18 Feb) of Spain and the world. it can be equally inspired by is inspired by the Spanish It lasted from 1869 a mix of contemporary shows symbolist painter Julio Romero until around 1910 and traditional interpretations of de Torres, who is known for old favourites. Some productions portraying typical Spanish women in take inspiration from other art forms, for his paintings. With dramatist Pedro G Romero, example Jesús Carmona’s Ímpetus includes dancers Ursula López, Tamara López and elements of ballet.’ Leonor Leal aim to break down these The series opens with Tempo of Light stereotypes and clichés.

Dju-Dju (20 Feb) is also a collaboration, this time between the avant-garde choreographer and dancer Israel Galván and the classical dancer Isabel Bayón Compañia, who explores the demons and superstitions of the flamenco world alongside dancers Alicia Marquez and Nieves Casablanca. Choreographer Ángel Rojas, meanwhile, who co-directs the New Spanish Ballet, will lead Gala Flamenca (21-23 Feb). On stage you can see Antonio Canales – one of the world’s greatest flamenco dancers – alongside El Farru, who set up his own company aged 10, and Gema Moneo, who is returning to the festival. La Chana, now in her 70s, will also perform in a rare appearance. Ballet Flamenco’s Jesús Carmona, who is credited for evolving flamenco, will lead Impetus (24 Feb). A former dancer with the Spanish National Ballet (Ballet Nacional de España), Carmona uses ballet-inspired moves as his company performs an interpretation of scores from Spain’s well-known composers. For full listing, turn to p. 49

DJU-DJU © ALEJANDRO ESPADERO; FLAMENCO DANCER COURTESY OF SADLER’S WELLS

Fans of flamenco are in for a treat as an annual festival returns to the capital, says Sarah Riches

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References in listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on p. 72-73. Check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP)

Love triangle Carmen may be one of the most famous operas in the world, but did you know that when it first premiered in 1875 it was a critical failure? This month, a new version, directed by Barrie Kosky, comes to the Royal Opera House (from 6 Feb; p. 49). Written by composer Georges Bizet, it tells the story of the soldier Don José – played by tenors Francesco Meli and Andrea Carè – who leaves his childhood sweetheart Micaëla (sopranos Kristina Mkhitaryan and Susanna Hurrell) for a gypsy called Carmen, played by mezzo-sopranos Anna Goryachova and Gaëlle Arquez. But Don José gets a taste of his own medicine when his new lover leaves him for a matador, Escamillo. One performance (6 Mar) is played live to cinemas around the world.

Aladdin This West End hit has a stellar cast. Expect tunes such as A Whole New World and Friend Like Me with lyrics by Tim Rice and a real magic carpet. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £17.50-£149.50. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Annie To 18 Feb: Set in the Great

Depression of the 1930s, it tells the story of an orphan, Annie, who is invited to spend Christmas with a millionaire. But evil manager Miss Hannigan (Meera Syal) has other ideas (p. 74). Check for times. Tickets £20-£110. www.piccadillytheatre.org. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Book of Mormon This controversial satire, from the writers of TV’s South Park, follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Please check for times. Tickets £32.25-£202.25. www.bookofmormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Dreamgirls Glee TV star Amber Riley plays Effie White in this musical about the tumultuous journey of a young female singing trio from Chicago. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£175. www.savoy theatre.org. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Everybody’s Talking about Jamie This feel-good new musical is already a hit. Set on a council estate in Sheffield, it tells the story of 16-year-old Jamie and how he overcomes bullies and prejudice. Check for times. Tickets £20-£85. www.everybodys talkingaboutjamie.co.uk. T: 0330-333 4809. Apollo Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Exorcist

Kinky Boots

The cult classic horror story receives its West End premiere. It’s based on the 1971 novel and William Friedkin’s 1973 film of the same name, which terrified audiences on its release. Mon-Thur & Sat 8pm; Fri 6pm & 9pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £15-£75. www.phoenixtheatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. E7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

A shoe factory reinvigorates its business after its new owner decides to make knee-high boots for drag queens. With music by Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

The Flying Lovers of Vitebsk

The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s novel, is set in post-revolutionary France. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £27.50-£152.25. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square.

To 10 Feb: Romantic drama about

a young couple. Set during the Russian Revolution, it features music and dance inspired by the Russian Jewish tradition. Directed by Emma Rice. Check for times and prices. www.wiltons.org.uk. Wilton’s Music Hall, 1 Graces Alley (pedestrian access only), E1 8JB. T: 020-7702 2789. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

42nd Street This romantic comedy follows a bossy director as he stages a musical extravaganza during the Great Depression. Peggy is stuck in the chorus line, but when the leading lady Dorothy (Sheena Easton) is injured, Peggy has a shot at stardom. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£125. www.42ndstreetmusical.co.uk. Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844-858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Girl from the North Country Bob Dylan songs tell the story of a town in Minnesota in 1934 as a community living on a knife-edge huddles together in a guesthouse. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £22.25-£99.75. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

Hamilton Award-winning musical, which is sung and rapped, about the life of American Founding Father, Alexander Hamilton. Its Broadway version won many awards. Please check for times, prices and how to get returns. www.hamiltonthemusical. co.uk. Victoria St, SW1E 5EA. T: 0844-482 5138. E7. Station: Victoria.

Les Misérables

Disney’s The Lion King Wonderful adaptation of the Disney film, about Simba the young lion king, with ingenious costumes and puppetry, and music written by Sir Elton John. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm. Tickets £40.50-£152.50. www.thelionking. co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mamma Mia! A tribute to the popular music of ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £27.25-£102.25. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Matilda the Musical Fantastic show based on Roald Dahl’s book, about a girl with magic powers. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Motown the Musical Feel-good musical based on the story of Motown Records, which launched the careers of legends including Diana Ross and the Supremes, Marvin Gaye, Stevie Wonder and more. Please check for times and prices. www.shaftesburytheatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

CARMEN © OPER FRANKFURT/MONIKA RITTERSHAUS

MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES

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ENTERTAINMENT

Screaming Secrets

The Comedy about a Bank Robbery

To 24 Feb: Philosopher and free

thinker Antonio discovers, at his own birthday party, that he’s not as healthy as he thinks. Drama which explores our need to be understood and appreciated. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£18. www.tristanbatestheatre.co.uk. Tristan Bates Theatre, 1a Tower St, WC2H 9NP. T: 0203841 6611. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Thriller Live Non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s career, with all his best-loved hits including Off the Wall, I Want You Back, ABC, Rock with You and Billie Jean. Please check for times and prices. www.thrillerlive.com. Lyric Theatre, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Wedding Reception

TV star Suranne Jones (Doctor Foster) plays a distraught mother in this psychological thriller with themes of retribution, remorse and redemption. Frozen, at Theatre Royal Haymarket (from 9 Feb), is set on a sunny evening in England, where a young girl walks to her grandmother’s house, but never arrives. With a cast of just three actors, Jones is joined by Nina Sosanya and BAFTA-winner Jason Watkins (Line of Duty). Previously at the National Theatre, this was a Broadway hit and got a Tony Award nomination for best new play.

Ovo Cirque du Soleil brings this insect-themed show to London, with acrobatic creepy crawlies. Check for times and prices. www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.

The Phantom of the Opera Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. Please check for times. Tickets £24.80-£175. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Pippin From 23 Feb: A new musical of vaudeville, magic, comedy and romance (p. 48). Please check for times and prices. www.southwarkplayhouse. co.uk. Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. Off map. Station: Elephant and Castle.

School of Rock: The Musical Andrew Lloyd Webber’s musical, based on the film of the same name, was a hit on Broadway and is here, too. Mon & Wed-Sun, check for times. Tickets £15-£129.50. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com. New London Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Wicked The brilliant back story of the witches of Oz with the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £21.75-£125. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.

Young Frankenstein The legendary filmmaker and comedian Mel Brooks brings this classic monster musical comedy to life on stage in an all-singing, all-dancing musical collaboration with Tony Award-winning Broadway director and choreographer Susan Stroman. Check for times and prices. www.garricktheatre.org. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673. E7/8. Station: Leicester Square.

PLAYS All’s Well That Ends Well William Shakespeare’s drama of one woman on a mission, set in a decaying world where kings are dying and wars are brewing. Please check for times. £10-£62. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Sam Wanamaker Playhouse, New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

Amadeus

Fanny & Alexander From 21 Feb: In glamorous 1900s Sweden, siblings Fanny and Alexander are shocked when their widowed mother marries the local bishop. Please check for times. Tickets £12-£65. www.old victheatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.

Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this theatrical experience based on the cult TV comedy. Check for times. Tickets £67.50£79.50. www.faultytowers-uk.com. Radisson Blu Edwardian, 9-13 Bloomsbury St, WC1B 3QD. T: 0845154 4145. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Ferryman This powerful play, written by Jez Butterworth and directed by Sam Mendes, is set in Northern Ireland in 1981, where the Carney household celebrates the harvest but are disrupted by a series of visitors. Mon-Sat 7pm; Wed & Sat 1.30pm. Tickets £12-£89.50. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Frozen From 9 Feb: Psychological thriller starring Suranne Jones. Mon-Sat 7.30pm, Thur & Sat 3pm. £15-£85. www.trh.co.uk. Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Harold and Maude From 19 Feb: A dark comedy told through the eyes of a self-destructive young man and an aged bohemian. Please check for times. Tickets £17.50-£42.50. www.charingcrosstheatre.co.uk. Charing Cross Theatre, The Arches, Villiers St, WC2N 6NL. T: 0844-493 0650. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Harry Potter and the Cursed Child In the adaptation of JK Rowling’s new story, father-of-three Harry now works for the Ministry of Magic and his son deals with his legacy. Check for returns and times. www.harrypottertheplay.com. Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Lady Windermere’s Fan

Michael Longhurst’s acclaimed production of In Oscar Wilde’s famous comedy of manners, Lady Peter Shaffer’s play about a young Wolfgang Windermere’s birthday party is disrupted Amadeus Mozart features live orchestral by her friend. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur accompaniment. Check for times and & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£55.50. prices. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. www.vaudeville-theatre.co.uk. National Theatre, SE1 9PX. T: 020Vaudeville Theatre, 404 Strand, 7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo. WC2R 0NH. T: 0330-333 4814. Harry Potter and E8. Station: Charing Cross. the Cursed Child has

The Birthday Party

won nine Laurence

Long Day’s Journey In Harold Pinter’s drama, Stanley is Olivier Awards into Night the only lodger at a sleepy seaside Eugene O’Neill’s classic drama is set boarding house, when the arrival of in 1912, where the Tyrones and their sons strangers disrupts a seemingly innocent test the bonds of a family caught in a cycle of love birthday party. Starring Zoë Wanamaker and and resentment. Please check for times and prices. Stephen Mangan. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Wyndham’s Theatre, 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£95. www.nationaltheatre. Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844-482 5120. org.uk. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. E7. Station: Leicester Square. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

FROZEN COURTESY OF THEATRE ROYAL HAYMARKET

Gone girl

Will and Kate dreamt of having an intimate wedding reception – but their family had other ideas. As a guest, you’ll enjoy a three-course dinner and a hilarious improvised show. Please check for times, prices and location. T: 0844-5154 4145. D8. Station: Holborn.

A hilarious play about six incompetent crooks desperate to get hold of a diamond, from the team behind The Play That Goes Wrong. Check for times. Tickets £11.25-£73.75. www.thecomedy aboutabankrobbery.com. The Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

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ENTERTAINMENT Mary Stuart Juliet Stevenson and Lia Williams play the parts of both Elizabeth I and Mary Stuart in Schiller’s political tragedy of two queens, one in power and one in prison. At the beginning of each performance, they toss a coin to decide which role they will take on. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2pm. Tickets £10-£95. www.dukeofyorkstheatre.co.uk. Duke of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4BG. T: 0844-871 7627. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

The Mousetrap A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s classic whodunnit, which is also the world’s longest-running show. Please check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Network News anchorman Howard Beale’s ratings have plummeted but improve when he unravels live on air in his final broadcast, turning him into the biggest thing on TV. Starring award-winning Bryan Cranston (Breaking Bad). Please check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 0207452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

The Play That Goes Wrong Slapstick comedy about an amateur drama society staging a murder mystery, where nothing goes to plan. Please check for times. Tickets £22-£67.50. www.theplaythatgoeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Summer and Smoke From 24 Feb: In Tennessee Williams’ classic drama, Alma’s world turns upside down in the search for salvation. Please check for times and prices. www.almeida.co.uk. Almeida Theatre, Almeida St, N1 1TA. T: 020-7359 4404. Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington.

CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Barbican 7 Feb: The 21st Grand Chinese New Year Concert. 11 Feb: BBC Singers: St Matthew Passion. 15 Feb: Academy of Ancient Music. 18 Feb: London Symphony Orchestra (Prokofiev, Strauss). 27 Feb:

Wigmore Hall 2 Feb: The Endellion String Quartet (Beethoven, Mozart, Tchaikovsky). 3 Feb: Ensemble 360 (Janacek, Mozart, Beethoven). 9 Feb: Mahan Esfahani. 10 Feb: Nash Ensemble (Durufle, Debussy, Ravel). 11 Feb: Pavel Haas Quartet. 22 & 28 Feb: Doric String Quartet (Haydn).

Britten Sinfonia: Rhapsody in Blue. www.barbican. org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

www.wigmore-hall.org.uk. 36 Wigmore St, W1U 2BP. T: 020-7935 2141. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Cadogan Hall

CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD

7 Feb: The Sixteen Choir and Orchestra: Vivaldi’s Gloria. 16 Feb: Maslenitsa Celebration Concert. 17 Feb: Mozart Symphony Orchestra (Gershwin, Bernstein). 22 Feb: London Chamber Orchestra

(Hayden Mozart, Schubert). www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. G6. Station: Sloane Square.

Royal Festival Hall 1 Feb: Philharmonia Orchestra (Dvorak). 4 Feb:

Orchestra of the Age of Enlightenment & Nicola Benedetti (Beethoven). 6 Feb: Royal Philharmonic Orchestra (Mahler). 7 Feb: London Philharmonic Orchestra (Stravinsky, Rimsky Korsakov). 8 Feb: Philharmonia Orchestra (Bartok, Kodaly). 19 Feb: Britten’s War Requiem. 24 Feb: Mozart Masterpieces. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Church 9 Feb: Brandenburg Sinfonia: Faure Requiem by Candlelight. 16 Feb: London Octave: Mozart Requiem by Candlelight. 17 Feb: Trafalgar Sinfonia: Vivaldi Four Seasons by Candlelight. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields Church, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Barbican 3 Feb: Jeff Tweedy. 21-24 Feb: Nils Frahm. 27 Feb: Polica + Stargaze. 27 & 28 Feb: Jazz at

Lincoln Center Orchestra with Wynton Marsalis. The big band looks back at moments which defined jazz and to the future of the genre. www.barbican. org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 0207638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

The Jazz Café This live music and club specialises in jazz and funk. 2 Feb: 47Soul. 6 Feb: Michael Rother. 7 Feb: Giraffage. 11 Feb: Samiyam. 12 Feb: A Night of Whitney. 16 Feb: Adam Ben Ezra. 20 Feb: Bilal. 28 Feb: Elli Ingram. www.thejazzcafelondon.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

The O2 Enormous venue for live music (p. 8). 4-8 Feb: Lady Gaga. 12-13 Feb: Kendrick Lamar. 23-24 Feb: The Script. Please check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

There or Here To 17 Feb: When illness prevents Robyn and Ajay from having a child of their own, they outsource their pregnancy to a woman in India in this dramatic comedy. Please check for times. Tickets £16.50-£18. www.parktheatre.co.uk. Park Theatre, Clifton Terrace, N4 3JP. T: 020-7870 6876. Off map. Station: Finsbury Park.

Winter To 24 Feb: In this riveting play, a businessman meets a stranger in a park, which leads to splintered desires and mistaken meanings. Check for times. Tickets £10-£15. www.youngvic.org. Young Vic, 66 The Cut, SE1 8LZ. T: 020-7922 2922. F9. Station: Waterloo.

Witness for the Prosecution

The Woman in Black A spooky story adapted from Susan Hill’s novel, about a lawyer who visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £21.50-£60. www.thewomaninblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Magic moments Can’t make up your mind between burlesque, magic or comedy? Then see the hit Broadway musical Pippin at the Southwark Playhouse (from 23 Feb; p. 46) by the multi-award-winning writer Stephen Schwartz, who is making a welcome return to London for the first time in five years. A mysterious troupe of Victorian vaudeville performers reinterpret the adventures of an ordinary man, Pippin, on an extraordinary journey – and spread a darkness over the tale of the adventures of young Prince Pippin. Songs include Magic to Do and Corner of the Sky. Originally directed by the legendary Bob Fosse, this version is directed by Jonathan O’Boyle. As the vaudeville players promise, prepare for ‘a finale you will remember for the rest of your lives’.

PIPPIN COURTESY OF SOUTHWARK PLAYHOUSE

To 11 Mar: Based on Agatha Christie’s gripping murder mystery, this play is staged in a genuine former courtroom, where the audience is immersed in the action. Tickets £10-£79. Please check for times. www.witnesscountyhall.com. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0844-815 7141. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

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Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club London’s most famous jazz venue. 5, 6 Feb: Vincent Herring Soul Chemistry. 9, 10 Feb: Pee Wee Ellis Funk Assembly. 12, 13, 16, 17 Feb: Nigel Kennedy Plays Gershwin. 19-21 Feb: Ruby Turner. 27, 28 Feb: Courtney Pine and Omari. Please check for times and prices. www.ronniescotts. co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

IN THE HEART OF LEICESTER SQUARE

Royal Festival Hall 5 Feb: Transatlantic Sessions. 9 Feb: Glen Hansard.

www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.

DANCE Barbican 8-11 Feb: Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui/Bunkamura Theatre Cocoon. 10 Feb: Anton & Erin: From Broadway to Hollywood. www.barbican.org.uk. Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

London Coliseum 1-27 Feb: Satyagraha (Philip Glass). Please check for times and prices. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

The Peacock 5-17 Feb: Cirque Bersek! Zippos. 20-24 Feb:

Jakop Ahlbom Company & Alamo Race Track. 20-24 Feb: Beats on Pointe. Tickets from £15. Please check for times. www.sadlerswells.com. Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. D8. Station: Holborn.

Royal Opera House From 13 Feb: The Winter’s Tale. To 3 Mar: Giselle. Please check for times and prices. www.roh. org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Sadler’s Wells 2 & 3 Feb: Sadler’s Wells Sampled. 8-11 Feb: Tanztheater Wuppertal Pina Bausch. 14-25 Feb:

Flamenco Festival London (p. 42). www.sadlers wells.com. Sadler’s Wells Theatre, Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.

OPERA Royal Opera House To 3 Mar: Tosca (Puccini). From 6 Feb: Carmen (Bizet)

(p. 44). Please check for times and prices. www.roh. org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

VISIT OUR NEW ONLINE GUIDE FOR TRAVEL TIPS, ITINERARIES AND TICKETS

LONDON PLANNER .COM Your friend in the city

CHILDREN & FAMILIES Heaven 7-11 Feb: A new production, without words, based

on the paintings of the Belgian surrealist painter René Magritte. Please check for times and prices. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.

Seesaw Being little can be hard work with holes to dig, sandcastles to make, treasures to find and adventures to be had: it’s much easier when you have a friend to help. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£18. www.unicorntheatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560. Off map. Station: London Bridge.

THINGS TO DO | FOOD AND DRINK | ESSENTIALS | FIRST VISIT ITINERARIES | ASK THE EXPERT | TICKETS AND OFFERS www.wheretraveler.com 49

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

Strike a pose London, we humbly declare, is the style capital of the world. Not Paris, New York or Milan. Instead, it’s this mother of a city that has given birth to the three-piece suit, bowler hat and trench coat, which are worn the world over, and nurtured fashion trends from punk to the Sloane Ranger. Twice a year, British designers, including the eccentric, eclectic and ever-inventive, showcase their collections at London Fashion Week (16-20 Feb). Paul Smith, Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood are just some of the names to expect. Now in its 35th year, the event brings in orders worth £100 million and sets the trends you can expect to see this autumn and winter. A strange thing happens in London: fashion editors,

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celebrities and bloggers can be seen strutting around the catwalk shows at the British Fashion Council (BFC) Show Space on The Strand. While many of the shows are invite-only, a week later London Fashion Week Festival (22-25 Feb) takes place. It’s more inclusive and gives a good taste of the actual event. Bag a front-row seat at a catwalk show from one of London’s latest designers; browse a pop-up shop with more than 150 brands for men and women, including Accessorize, S’well and House of Sunny; and listen to talks delivered by industry experts. Panel discussions include Deliciously Ella on the power of healthy eating; Elle’s fashion editor, Harriet Stewart, on the future of fashion; and Irish designer Orla Kiely on the role of

ornament and colour in our everyday lives. Plus, magazine editors can talk you through the latest trends, and personal stylists are on hand to offer wardrobe advice. Look out for hair and make-up stylists, too, who are ready to give you mini-makeovers during the day. Proving that it’s not just adults who should be having all the fun, Mini Mode, which is showcasing children’s fashion during London Fashion Week, launches its inaugural show (16 Feb; 3pm-5.30pm). Founded by UK childrenswear designer Amanda Rabor, the show aims to shake up the children’s clothes market. Rabor says: ‘London Fashion Week is iconic; it has been recognised throughout the world for decades. With that in mind, we thought that it was time to create a platform for kids’ fashion during the UK industry’s renowned London Fashion Week.’ London Fashion Week Festival, The Store, 180 The Strand, WC2R 1EA. T: 0115-896 0030 www.londonfashionweek.co.uk Mini Mode, Hellenic Centre, 16-18 Paddington St, W1U 5AS. www.mini-mode.co.uk

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF LONDON FASHION WEEKEND

As the spotlight falls on London Fashion Week, Kohinoor Sahota finds out how you can enjoy catwalk shows, pop-up designer shops and talks by leading stylists

16/01/2018 13:02


FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73

MAJOR STORES Fortnum & Mason British institution known for its great food hall. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845-300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Hamleys One of the world’s biggest toy shops, which spans seven floors. Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Harrods Edwardian food and meat halls, fashion plus restaurants. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Harvey Nichols Fashion, beauty and homeware which is adored by fashionistas. Check for opening times. www.harvey nichols.com. 109-125 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7RJ. T: 020-7235 5250. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

John Lewis Find fashion, homeware and electrical goods in this department store. Mon-Wed & Fri 9.30am8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.john lewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX. T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Liberty The epitome of heritage combined with cutting-edge design and the brand’s famous prints, plus a new restaurant (p. 60). Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty.co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Selfridges Browse some of the finest products in beauty and fashion, including exclusive and limited-edition products. Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.

MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS Bicester Village Find discount designer clothes. Mon-Wed & Fri 9am-9pm; Thur & Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.bicestervillage.com. Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major hotels.

IMAGE COURTESY OF VASHI DIAMONDS

Westfield London This huge mall has more than 300 shops, from high-street names to high-end fashion labels, plus a range of food outlets and KidZania, an indoor city run by children (p. 26). www.westfield. com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

Westfield Stratford City Massive mall, one of Europe’s largest, with 270 shops as well as a cinema and casino, plus a Champagne bar. www.westfield.com/stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Shine bright like a diamond As Valentine’s Day is one of the most popular times of the year to propose, Vashi has recently opened on Piccadilly offering beautiful diamond jewellery. The British jeweller is looking to demystify diamond buying with a new concept store that focuses on personalisation, which allows the customer to design their own diamond jewellery. Visit the in-store diamond laboratory, analyse diamonds under a microscope and work with craftsmen to bring your chosen jewel to life. 46 Piccadilly, W1J 0DS. T: 0800-530 0541. www.vashi.com. E7. Station: Green Park

JEWELLERY & WATCHES SPECIALIST STORES Links of London

Buckingham Palace Shop

Jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. Great for men and women’s jewellery, plus an engraving service. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.

Royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created by Alex Monroe, in a shop that’s close to the palace. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royalcollection shop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria

Pandora

Cath Kidston

Find jewellery and gifts, including Pandora’s much-loved charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Home to stylish accessories with London prints, plus a great collection of childrenswear. www.cath kidston.com. 178-180 Piccadilly, W1J 9ER. T: 020-7499 9895. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Tiffany & Co

John Bell & Croyden

This world-renowned jeweller stocks exquisite designer gems (multiple locations around London). www.tiffany.com. The Courtyard, Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LQ. T: 020-7409 2790. D10. Station: Bank.

Wempe Grand, spacious setting for the luxury German family business, established in 1878. Large selection of jewellery and fine watches. www.wempe.com. 43-44 New Bond St, W1S 2SA. T: 020-7493 2299. E6. Station: Bond Street.

KIDS’ STORES LEGO Store

This wellbeing emporium is more than 200 years old and is the pharmacy to the Queen. It offers emergency prescriptions and vaccinations. www.johnbellcroyden.co.uk. Please check for opening times. 50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2AU. T: 020-7935 5555. D6. Station: Bond Street.

London Glassblowing Pick up a souvenir and then try glassblowing yourself with a session at the UK’s foremost studio and gallery for contemporary glass art. www.london glassblowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.

Twinings

LEGO merchandise, including a huge replica of Big Ben made from bricks. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. www.lego.com/en-gb/stores. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Trading since 1706, you will find a variety of teas and infusions here, plus a small museum. MonFri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 0207353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

M&M’s World

We Built This City

Sweet treats, including London-inspired chocolate souvenirs. Mon-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun noon-6pm. www.mmsworld.com. 1 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7025 7171. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Quirky souvenir shop where classic items are given a twist. Mon-Wed 10am-7pm; Thur-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.webuiltthiscity.co.uk. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. E7. Station: Oxford Circus. www.wheretraveler.com 51

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Dover Street Market fashion mall, Dover Street Market stocks clothing, accessories and shoes from designer brands. Browse concessions from Paul Smith, Céline, Dior and Gucci, which feel like walk-in wardrobes. 18-22 Haymarket, SW1Y 4DG. T: 020-7518 0680. www.doverstreetmarket.com

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SHOPPING

SHOPPING ESSENTIALS

SHIPPING COMPANIES If you are buying items that you don’t wish to carry home, here is a selection of central London companies that can assist in delivering your goods. Please check the websites below for your most convenient branch. DHL: Ryman, 227 Kensington High St, W8 6SA. T: 020-7937 1107 Ryman, 64 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3LQ. T: 020-7581 0858 Homebase, 195 Warwick Rd, W14 8PU. T: 020-7602 5125. www.dhl.co.uk

SIZING SHOES UK

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SW14 7PJ. T: 0208392 6990. www. packsend.co.uk UPS: Food & Wine, 20 Wellington St, WC2E 7DD. T: 0845-687 7877 Great Portland Street News, Great Portland St, W1W 5PS. T: 0845-687 7877 Londis, 77-79 Union St, SE1 1SG. T: 0845-687 7877. www.ups.com

28 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3SS. T: 020-7581 2825

Post Office: 54-56 Great Portland St, W1W 7NE

95 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1BZ. T: 020-7630 8123. www.mbe.co.uk

111 Baker St, W1U 6SG

Pack & Send: 124 N End Rd, W14 9PP. T: 020-7381 9000

9 Russell Square, WC1B 5EQ

417 Upper Richmond Rd,

32a Grosvenor St, W1K 4PA

All branches: T: 0845-611 2970. www.postoffice. co.uk

OPENING TIMES Opening times for most shops are Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 11am4pm unless stated otherwise. Some shops stay open until 9pm on Thursdays for late-night shopping.

TAX-FREE SHOPPING Value Added Tax (VAT) is a 20% sales tax added on all goods except food, books, and children’s clothing. Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item. Don’t forget to ask in-store for more information about tax-free shopping. www.wheretraveler.com 55

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DINING | THE GUIDE

A star is born A new Michelin Guide has rated the latest leading restaurants in London, says Sarah Riches The Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2018 has revealed who’s in and who’s out – and this year, 10 London restaurants have been awarded a coveted Michelin star for the first time. Experienced, anonymous inspectors use a respected food star-rating system to create an objective list of recommended restaurants. It’s been seven years since London was last honoured with three stars, in the form of the contemporary French restaurant Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester hotel. But now, The Araki in Mayfair, a Japanese restaurant with just nine seats, also has a triple-A record. Chef Mitsuhiro Araki says: ‘Being challenged with the task of using foreign ingredients from this side of the world has been an incredible learning experience. The excitement that we experience on a daily basis has reignited the passion that I have missed. To receive the third star was truly spellbinding, with all our hard work coming to fruition. ‘There is great passion that I feel does not exist in Japan in young, non-Japanese chefs who wish to train in the traditional craft of sushi, so my dream is to have a school of

young, aspiring non-Japanese sushi chefs with branches all over the world.’ If you’re lucky enough to reserve a place, you’ll be asked to pay £300 up front and arrive promptly or lose your seat – and your cash. As you might expect given its size, diners chat among themselves and interact with the chefs in the open kitchen, creating an intimate atmosphere. Sample dishes including sushi with grated fresh wasabi, French artichoke hearts and sesame miso, and a handroll of wild Dutch freshwater eel. Fussy eaters and those with dietary requirements are not catered for – you have been warned! Second on the list is Claude Bosi at Bibendum in Chelsea. The French restaurant is a new entry, with two stars. Try hand-dived Scottish scallops to start, or push the boat out and go for the duck jelly with Oscietra caviar,

smoked sturgeon and spring onions. Mains might be rabbit, Yorkshire grouse or ‘My mum’s tripe and cuttlefish gratin, pig’s ear and ham cake.’ Jamavar, an Indian restaurant in Mayfair, also scooped a star – and no wonder, as chef Rohit Ghai was previously at Gymkhana. Named after the decorative woven fabric that hangs from its walls, the restaurant ticks the décor box. It also gets a thumbs up for its friendly, efficient service and relaxed atmosphere. It’s no surprise, then, that it gets busy, even on a Monday night. Try the kid goat kebab, Bengali seabass curry and smoked yellow lentil dhal. The other restaurants to bag a new star include La Dame de Pic, a French restaurant in the City; Aquavit in St James’s Market; A Wong, a Chinese restaurant in Victoria; Elystan Street, a European restaurant in Chelsea; and The Square, a French restaurant in Mayfair, which regained the Michelin star it lost last year.

BIBENDUM IMAGES COURTESY OF BIBENDUM; AQUAVIT © JEAN CAZALS; MITSUHIRO ARAKI COURTESY OF THE ARAKI; JAMAVAR © CHRIS ORANGE; ANNE-SOPHIE PIC © CHAPUIS-PHOTO.COM

Clockwise from this image: Bibendum; Aquavit; Mitsuhiro Araki at The Araki; laal maas at Jamavar; Anne-Sophie Pic at La Dame de Pic Below: chocolate soufflé at Bibendum

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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated Indian Grill offers intense flavours with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting. Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: info@amaya.biz Private dining room seats 14

The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week; weekend brunch with live music. 73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: info@chutneymary.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16

Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world has a Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: info@veeraswamy.com Private dining room seats 24

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DINING T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (‘Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch), D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80 +. References (A1; B5 etc.) refer to the map on p. 72-73

Caxton Grill Superb steaks cooked on the Josper grill, plus seafood dishes, in a stylish venue. ££££. Daily L & D. www.caxtongrill.co.uk. 2 Caxton St, SW1H 0QW. T: 020-7227 7777. F7. Station: St James’s Park.

Cheneston’s Intimate restaurant serving tasty dishes. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Fera at Claridge’s Creative British dishes made from local ingredients, served in an Art Deco restaurant. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges.co.uk. Claridge’s hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Great Court Restaurant Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the huge museum’s iconic Reading Room. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

Holborn Dining Room

The Michelin-starred French restaurant, Club Gascon, has reopened by Smithfield Market following a major refurbishment. The restaurant, which is in a Grade II-listed building, now has a bigger kitchen and a semi-private space for 10 diners in its basement. To complement the new décor, there’s a new à la carte menu dedicated to Club Gascon’s past, present and future. The past section, Gascon, will feature chef Pascal Aussignac’s classic dishes; the present, Season, will showcase seasonal dishes; while the future, Garden, is vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free. You can also enjoy cocktails at Le Bar next door. 57 West Smithfield, EC1A 9DS. T: 020-7600 6144. www.clubgascon.com. D9. Station: Farringdon

AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH) Gaucho Succulent Argentine steaks, plus a wine bar, masterclasses and entertainment. ££££. Daily L & D. www.gauchorestaurants.co.uk. 25 Swallow St, W1B 4QR (and branches). T: 020-7734 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Goodman Premium steakhouse serving quality US and British beef, dry-aged and hand-cut in house, plus dishes including whole roasted poussin. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.goodmanrestaurants.com. 26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Hard Rock Cafe London’s original burger joint, more than 40 years old, has rock memorabilia, funky décor and a fun atmosphere. Enjoy jumbo wings, nachos and hickory-smoked ribs. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

JW Steakhouse Steakhouse offering dry-aged prime beef with a variety of sides and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Oblix Sophisticated New York-style rotisserie/grill on the 32nd floor of The Shard. £££. Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Planet Hollywood This huge London branch has burgers, pizzas and cocktails, plus film memorabilia. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywood london.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Rainforest Cafe Busy diner in a mock rainforest setting with animatronic animals, and a menu with ribs, wraps and pasta. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.the rainforestcafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7EU. T: 020-7434 3111. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Indigo British gluten-free and dairy-free dishes. ££-£££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych hotel, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 1000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Magpie Intricate dishes arrive at your table on trolleys, dim-sum style. £££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.magpie-london.com. 10 Heddon St, W1B 4BX. T: 020-7287 8592. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Rex Whistler Restaurant Dine on seafood bisque, a Sunday roast or roast partridge underneath a whimsical century-old mural. ££. Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Searcys St Pancras This ornate dining room in the Eurostar terminal serves brasserie-style dishes. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

BRITISH (TRADITIONAL) Café in the Crypt

BRITISH (MODERN)

Vaulted café under the church serving homely dishes. £. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.

Aqua Shard

The English Grill

Contemporary cuisine matches the fantastic views from The Shard’s 32nd floor. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Restaurant serving daily roasts. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.rubenshotel.com. The Rubens at the Palace hotel, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.

Butlers Restaurant

The Ritz Restaurant

This elegant restaurant is famed for its roasts served from a carving trolley. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chesterfieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.

Enjoy classic British dishes in a pretty dining room. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.theritzlondon.com. The

Ritz hotel, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.

CLUB GASCON © S MEES

A French fancy

This smart brasserie adjoining the stylish Rosewood hotel serves classic British dishes with a twist. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.holborn diningroom.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8633. D8. Station: Holborn.

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ENJOY THE THALI AT Sophie’s Steakhouse & Bar Modern restaurant with roast beef, steaks and terrine boards. ££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteak house.co.uk. 42-44 Great Windmill St, W1D 7NB (and branch). T: 020-7352 0088. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

REAL INDIAN FOOD

CHINESE Bright Courtyard Club Excellent Cantonese and Shanghai dishes, including dim sum. £££. Daily L & D. www.bright courtyard.co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Chai Wu This contemporary restaurant in Harrods serves delicious dishes such as shredded Wagyu beef and Chilean sea bass. ££££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu.co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Kai Mayfair Superior Michelin-starred cuisine in an elegant setting. ££££. Daily L & D. www.kaimayfair.co.uk. 65 South Audley St, W1K 2QU. T: 020-7493 8988. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 1 Lombard Street Hearty cooking in this brasserie, a former bank, with a huge glass dome. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.

BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD

CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST

M ASA LA ZO N E .COM

Galvin at Windows Michelin-starred restaurant, flagship of the Galvin Brothers, with great views over the city from the 28th floor. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvinatwindows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The Terrace All-day dining from Britain and around the globe in this elegant, light-filled restaurant and bar. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.amba-hotel.com. Amba Charing Cross hotel, The Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0800-330 8397. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Ting This superb restaurant in The Shard’s Shangri-La hotel serves European dishes with an Asian twist, plus fabulous views from midway up The Shard. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge.

FISH AND SEAFOOD J Sheekey Chic and popular seafood spot with an oyster and Champagne bar – it’s great for people watching. ££££. Daily L & D. www.j-sheekey.co.uk. 28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Poppie’s Popular traditional fish and chip shop with vintage décor. £. Daily L & D. www.poppies fishandchips.co.uk. 55 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW (and branches). T: 020-7734 4845. D7. Station: Leicester Square. www.wheretraveler.com 59

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DINING

FRENCH Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Innovative food from this Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 020-7629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Brasserie Joël This smart brasserie serves French classics. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasseriejoel. co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Westminster.

Brasserie Zédel Bustling French brasserie serving excellent value prix-fixe menus. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasserie zedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Céleste Michelin-starred cuisine in a smart dining room. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com. The Lanesborough hotel, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Clos Maggiore Exquisite dining room with a pretty, blossom-filled conservatory. £££. Daily L & D. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

GASTROPUBS The Grazing Goat Try seasonal dishes such as lamb rump with tomato fregola. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thegrazinggoat. co.uk. 6 New Quebec St, W1H 7RQ. T: 020-7724 7243. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Eat, drink and shop Liberty London (p. 51) has a new restaurant, Arthur’s, named after the man who founded the luxury department store in 1875. The second-floor restaurant and bar complete the store’s year-long renovation. Open for brunch, lunch, afternoon tea and early dinner (until 7pm), Arthur’s uses artisan produce from the store’s food hall. Mains are veggie-friendly and include beetroot falafel with cumin-roasted cauliflower, smoked aubergine, quinoa, sunflower seeds and beetroot dressing. An in-house baker makes desserts such as brownies with popcorn and Nutella cream. Like the restaurant, which has copper touches and midnight blue and teal banquettes, the bar has Art Deco details such as pink stools and geometric tiles. If you have something to celebrate – and you are on holiday, after all – then sit at the marble counter and order a cocktail.

The Wigmore

INDIAN

Veeraswamy

Dine in a former Edwardian ballroom for a unique taste of colonial India, on dishes with FrenchCreole influences. £££. Daily L & D. www.la portedesindes.com. 32 Bryanston St, W1H 7EG. T: 020-7224 0055. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant is Michelinstarred, with an opulent interior. Try the six-hour cooked lamb shank. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.veera swamy.com. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Little India

Amaya This Michelin-starred venue serves dishes that are full of exotic twists, cooked in its opengrill kitchen. £££. Daily L & D. www. amaya.biz. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Benares

La Porte des Indes

This cosy, informal restaurant specialises in traditional Bengali cuisine, including prawn curry. ££. Daily L & D. www.littleindialondon.com. 32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7584 3476. F4. Station: Gloucester Road.

Masala Zone In this chain of newly-refurbished restaurants, enjoy authentic Indian street food, plus the flavourpacked grand thali. ££. Daily L & D. www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER (and branches). T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Veeraswamy was opened in 1926 by the grandson of an Indian princess and an English general

Modern Michelin-starred Indian cuisine from Atul Kochhar. £££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun D. www.benares restaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.

Chutney Mary

Mint Leaf

A gourmet tour of seven Indian regions in this elegant restaurant. £££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat L & D. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.

Contemporary dishes are served in this stylish restaurant; try the grilled prawns with fenugreek. £££. Mon-Fri L; daily D. www.mintleaflondon.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Gaylord

Tamarind

Iconic Indian restaurant, more than 50 years old, serving North Indian recipes including sheekh kebabs and Mughal dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

In this smart Mayfair dining room, you can enjoy Michelin-starred Mughal and North West Frontier cuisine such as lobster masala. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarindrestaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.

INTERNATIONAL Bbar Enjoy top-quality meat and fish at this relaxed restaurant and bar, with dishes such as 28-dayaged beef and fried hake. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Cavendish This timeless brasserie serves hearty mains such as lemon veal scallopini and Sunday roasts. Try the rib-eye steak and triple-fried chips. ££-£££. Daily L & D. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. www.35newcavendish.co.uk. T: 020-7487 3030. C5. Station: Baker Street.

ITALIAN Cicchetti Lively, all-day dining with regional specialities to share at this sophisticated restaurant, from antipasti and cured meats to seafood. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch). T: 020-7494 9435. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

ARTHUR’S COURTESY OF LIBERTY LONDON

Enjoy unusual dishes and bar snacks in a bar with original Art Deco features inside The Langham hotel. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.the-wigmore. co.uk. 15 Langham Place, off Regent St, W1B 3DE. T: 020-7965 0198. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

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Mayfair Pizza Co Bright restaurant where you can watch the chefs at work in the open-plan kitchen. ££. Daily L & D. www.mayfairpizzaco.com. 4 Lancashire Court, off New Bond St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7629 2889. E6. Station: Bond Street.

RESTAURANT AND BAR Harvesting Red King Crab since 1993

Rossopomodoro Enjoy authentic Neapolitan street food and pizzas – including gluten-free – in an informal setting. ££. Daily L & D. www.rossopomodoro.co.uk. John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX (and branches). T: 020-7629 7711. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Verdi – Italian Kitchen Dine on stone-baked pizzas or afternoon tea in the famous music venue – check for free Friday music. ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdiitalian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.

JAPANESE & KOREAN Benihana Chefs create griddle-cooked dishes at your table for a theatrical experience. £££. Daily L & D. www.beni hana.co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 020-7494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Engawa This refined Japanese restaurant has tasting menus, plus excellent Kobe beef in different cuts for you to choose from. Other dishes include sashimi, sushi and sukiyaki (hot pot). £££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Try the king of the crab world from £12 only. Always wild, never farmed.

THE WORLD’S MOST ELEGANT SHELLFISH

92 Wigmore St, London W1U 3RD Tel: 0203 096 9484 fancycrab.co.uk

MIDDLE EASTERN Momo Decadent candlelit restaurant with Moroccan décor, serving mezze, couscous and tagine dishes. £££. Daily L & D. www.momo resto.com. 25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH. T: 020-7434 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Nopi Innovative Middle Eastern-inspired food from Yotam Ottolenghi, with seasonal dishes to share in an informal space that includes communal tables. Upstairs is more formal. ££-£££. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www.nopi-restaurant.com. 21-22 Warwick St, W1B 5NE. T: 020-7494 9584. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

RIVERSIDE Bateaux London Enjoy a cruise while dining on modern British cuisine. Booking essential. £££. Daily L & D cruises; Sun jazz with three-course L. www.bateaux london.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment.

Just 5 minutes from Victoria station and opposite the Royal Mews at Buckingham Palace. Open daily for lunch, dinner, evening cocktails and private events.

The London Showboat Drift down the River Thames while enjoying dinner. Booking essential. ££££. Departs daily from Westminster Pier 7.45pm. www.city cruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.

RS Hispaniola Delightful moored restaurant boat on the Thames serving British dishes. Opt for the deck menu for a light bite. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.

43 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0PP 020 7958 7000 | www.bbarlondon.com

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DINING

For the quintessential English experience, stop for an afternoon tea with a twist

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL LONDON Get transported to the 1920s with the Rotunda Lounge’s new Bright Young Things tea at Four Seasons Hotel London at Ten Trinity Square. The grand room, complete with an Art Deco ceiling, has a pianist playing in the afternoon inspired by the influential Dixieland jazz of the early 1920s. The tea comes with a glass of Brut Champagne, finger sandwiches, homemade scones and pastries that come in amazing designs, such as a fedora and an ashtray. Scones are served in a beautiful box, and pastries on a miniature stage. Take your pick from varieties of tea, from Monkey Paw to Dragon Well. 10 Trinity Square, EC3N 4AJ

MR FOGG’S RESIDENCE For a weekend treat, try the Tipsy Tea at Mr Fogg’s Residence in Mayfair, which is inspired by the fictional Mr Fogg in the 1873 Jules Verne novel Around the World in 80 Days. Perch on an elephant foot stool surrounded by globes, maps and taxidermy as you sip cocktails. You’ll also be offered sandwiches, Portuguese custard tarts and treats such as gooey brownies – but no scones! A pianist provides live entertainment on both days, while on Sundays a magician moves around the tables performing tricks. 15 Bruton Lane, W1J 6JD

THE WELLESLEY For a classic high tea, look no further than The Wellesley’s Churchill-themed afternoon tea (below), which was awarded best themed tea at the 2017 Afternoon Tea Awards. The meal is served in the Jazz Lounge, which is decorated with a canvas of Sir Winston Churchill smoking a cigar, mirrors, an Art Deco chandelier and a crystal folding screen. Take a seat on a pale pink velvet chair and listen to a pianist play as you choose from a menu of 26 teas. As well as sandwiches, scones and optional brut or Krug Champagne, you can have macarons, a tiramisu bowler hat and chocolate wafer cigars. 11 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LY

A great British restaurant The ICA, a hip modern art gallery just down the road from Buckingham Palace, has opened a restaurant that has become a dining destination: Rochelle Canteen. If you want to try British food, then these hearty dishes, which feel like school dinners for grown-ups, are ideal. The menu includes rabbit and bacon pie and slowcooked beef. The original Rochelle Canteen opened in a school bike shed, and this one also has understated décor with white tables and mismatched furniture – so the food is the star of the show. The Mall, SW1Y 5AH. T: 020-7766 1424. www.ica.art. E7. Station: Charing Cross

SOUTH EAST ASIAN Chi Kitchen Pan-Asian cuisine in the department store Debenhams; see the chefs at work in an openplan dining space. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chi kitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Mango Tree This elegant fine-dining restaurant offers authentic Thai dishes, such as tom ka and grilled Wagyu beef in spicy sauce. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.mango tree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.

Rosa’s Thai Café At this informal venue in Carnaby, enjoy spicy dishes from papaya salad to drunken noodles. Daily L & D. ££. www.rosasthaicafe.com. 23a Ganton St, W1F 9BW (and branches). T: 020-7287 9617. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Thai Pot This popular spot offers a huge range of goodvalue, authentic Thai dishes, including stir-fried beef and massaman curry. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

SPANISH El Pirata Choose from a large range of authentic hot and cold tapas in this Mayfair bar-restaurant, including cured meats and fresh seafood. There are good set menus. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata. co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Moro North Africa meets Spain in this atmospheric Moorish restaurant; try the wood-roasted chicken with sage labneh. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www. moro.co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336. Off map. Station: Farringdon.

VEGETARIAN The Gate This popular veggie restaurant has well-presented dishes such as tofu tikka and couscous fritters. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.thegaterestaurants.com. 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL (and branches). T: 020-7724 6656. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Mildreds This informal and much-loved Soho institution has hearty meat-free dishes with global flavours. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.mildreds.co.uk. 45 Lexington St, W1F 9AN (and branches). T: 020-7494 1634. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Tibits Enjoy dozens of dishes, buffet-style, at this relaxed restaurant-bar. Choose from salads, hot dishes and healthy puddings and pay by plate weight. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits. co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 020-7758 4110. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Woodlands Tasty cuisine from all over India. Enjoy dishes such as Mysore dosas, thalis and cashew pakoras – there are also vegan and gluten-free dishes. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant.co.uk. 77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches). T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street.

ROCHELLE CANTEEN COURTESY OF ICA; THE WELLESLEY © SUSANNAH FIELDS

Time for tea

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W H E R E

L O N D O N

P R O M O T I O N

BEST OF LONDON DINING Chi Kitchen Chi Kitchen is a contemporary pan-Asian restaurant offering tasty, colourful and exotic dishes that are both MSG-free and halal. The open-plan restaurant lets guests witness the chefs at work, as they freshly prepare Thai, Chinese, Malaysian, Japanese, Vietnamese and Korean cuisine. With such a wide selection of colourful, tasty and exotic dishes to choose from, Chi Kitchen promises to take diners on a truly unique culinary journey throughout South-East Asia. Mon-Sat: 7.30am-11pm (last orders 10.15pm) Sun 11.30am-10pm (last orders 9.15pm)

Mango Tree

Ground Floor Debenhams (Henrietta Place entrance), 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. www.chikitchen.co.uk. Station: Oxford Circus

Mango Tree, situated in the heart of Belgravia, offers exquisite Thai cuisine and world-renowned hospitality in a modern and stylish environment. Having appeared on BBC1’s MasterChef, and mentioned in J K Rowling’s novel The Silkworm as a Thai institution in Belgravia, Mango Tree offers innovative yet classic cuisine of the highest calibre. Using the finest ingredients sourced from the best suppliers, both locally and abroad, the restaurant serves genuine Thai dishes from each of the four main culinary regions: rich and mild dishes from the north, spicy food from the east, mild dishes influenced by the Chinese cooking style from the central region, and hot and spicy food from the south. 46 Grosvernor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. www.mangotree.org.uk. Station: Victoria/Hyde Park Corner. Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. www.mangotree.org.uk. Station: Knightsbridge

Chai Wu Chai Wu is a contemporary Chinese restaurant, located on the Fifth Floor of the iconic department store Harrods, in Knightsbridge South West London. Serving tasty, exotic and colourful dishes reflect the finest of modern Chinese cuisine. The menu consists of small dishes such as Black Truffle Sour Soup and Chilean Sea Bass Dumpling with Gold Leaf, as well as luxury main dishes including Beijing Duck and Wagyu Steak. Chai Wu is a premium venue in luxury setting, perfect for private dining or an important business meeting and ensures an unforgettable dining experience. Mon–Sat noon–9pm (last order 8:30pm); Sun noon–6pm (last order 5.15pm).

El Pirata

Fifth Floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. www.chaiwu.co.uk. Station: Knightsbridge

For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. It’s informal, inexpensive and, above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón Ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ). Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/020-7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from this image: Callooh Callay; a cocktail at Callooh Callay; The King of Ladies Man

The secret’s out Back in the 1920s, when alcohol was banned in the States during Prohibition, illicit bars known as speakeasies proliferated – often disguised as another venue entirely. Alcohol may no longer be banned, but who isn’t drawn to somewhere with a hint of taboo? Jack Solomons Club launched in Soho in December in the basement of 41 Great Windmill Street – ring the bell by the entrance, which is through a hidden door accessed via a late-night delicatessen. As you descend the stairs you’ll pass a window overlooking a kitchen’s butchery chamber, but once inside the décor is all about old-school glamour – think velvet furnishings, red leather walls and a pewter countertop. The bar is inspired by Jack Solomons, who owned a boxing gym in Soho in the 1940s, while the drinks are named after characters in his life. The boxer’s favourite tipple was Scotch, so try the Black Jack, named after his favourite greyhound, which is made with Laphroaig, Maraschino liqueur and lime. Small bites to eat are inspired by Jack’s days as a

fishmonger, with dishes such as hot-smoked trout, crab croquettes and fish and chips. Unlike most speakeasies, this one has space for 390 people and a dance floor, with live bands, DJs, events and guest appearances until late (41 Great Windmill St, W1D 7LU). Jack Solomons Club isn’t London’s only speakeasy, but it’s a case of seek and ye shall find – you just need to know where to look. Bars might be disguised as a 1920s chemists – like the new Evans & Peel Pharmacy in Chiswick, which is decorated with antique surgical equipment (42 Devonshire Rd, W4 2HD). London has bars in a public toilet (CellarDoor) and a suit shop (Discount Suit Company), while some come with passwords (‘Hair of the Dog’ at Purl), or have no sign or name (69 Colebrooke Row). But even when you make it inside a bar, you could be within metres of another one without even knowing. A parallel universe lies on the far side of a gilt-framed mirror in the Looking Glass Cocktail Club in Shoreditch. Step inside the giant glass into a dimly-lit room decorated with Louis XVI-inspired furniture. DJs, live

musicians and performance artists entertain you as you sample its new menu, which is themed around time travel through musical eras. Sip cocktails from the Middle Ages through to the Renaissance and inspired by pop, techno, rock and hip-hop. Try the Cotton Blues, made with El Jimador Reposado, Mezcal, cocoa nibs and coffee bean-infused sweet vermouth, Tentura, Peychaud’s bitters and tobacco liqueur (49 Hackney Rd, E2 7NX). Callooh Callay, also in Shoreditch, has a wardrobe – JubJub is on the other side. To gain entry, you’ll need a key. Clue: email the bar beforehand (65 Rivington St, EC2A 3AY). Milroy’s of Soho, meanwhile, is a whisky bar with tables made from barrels – but what’s behind its bookcase? The Vault, that’s what – a candle-lit cellar speakeasy with cosy arches at the back (3 Greek St, W1D 4NX). The King of Ladies Man in Battersea is hidden behind a launderette’s sliding wall (5-9 Battersea Rise, SW11 1HG), while The Breakfast Club close to Liverpool Street station has a 1950s Smeg fridge – which isn’t just for milk… (12-16 Artillery Lane, E1 7LS).

CALLOOH CALLAY COURTESY OF CALLOOH CALLAY; COCKTAIL © ADDIE CHINN; THE KING OF LADIES MAN COURTESY OF THE KING OF LADIES MAN

Can you keep a secret? Sarah Riches can’t – she uncovers London’s newest and best speakeasy-style bars

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

Most bars open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map (p. 72-73)

TRADITIONAL PUBS The Blackfriar This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened 100 years ago, offers traditional cask ales. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.

Cittie of Yorke The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint in this traditional pub for a real taste of historic London. 22 High Holborn, WC1V 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

Waxy O’Connor’s Long-standing Irish bar, comprising four bars over six levels. It screens Ireland’s major sporting events. www.waxyoconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese This Grade II-listed pub was built soon after the Great Fire of 1666, and has vaults which are even older than that. Enjoy a pint of English ale and dine on a range of simple pub food. 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

BARS & CLUBS 68 and Boston Sophisticated venue with separate cocktail and wine bars. Expect wines from unusual destinations, including Uruguay, with all bottles at just £20. www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD. T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Back Room Next to Hard Rock, the bar boasts vintage and iconic music items, including a door from the

The Dog and Duck A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsons pubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Flask This 17th-century pub boasts Byron and Shelley as past patrons and is allegedly haunted. www.the flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.

The French House Creative, bohemian types love this quirky pub in the heart of Soho. www.frenchhousesoho.com. 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 020-7437 2477. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The George Inn This historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Glasshouse Stores This is a comforting old Sam Smith’s pub, with wood-panelled walls and etched glass. There are plenty of nooks and crannies in which to hide away, making it a romantic spot. The beers and food are good. 55 Brewer St, W1F 9UJ. T: 020-7287 5278. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Guinea Site of an inn since 1423, this friendly venue has great Young’s ales and bar food, including steak pies. www.theguinea.co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street/Oxford Street.

The Magpie & Stump Opposite the Old Bailey, the pub dates back to the 1500s, and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. B8. Station: St Paul’s.

The Punchbowl This popular Mayfair pub-restaurant offers a variety of ales in its unique, classy surroundings. www.punchbowllondon.com. 41 Farm St, W1J 5RP. T: 020-7493 6841. E6. Station: Green Park.

The Spaniards Inn Follow in the footsteps of past regulars, including Dick Turpin and Charles Dickens, at this pub – one of the oldest in London. Its Sunday roast and pies are popular – booking advisable. www.thespaniards hampstead.co.uk. Spaniard’s Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

DINE DA N C E DA R E

The London Cabaret Club The London Cabaret is set in the exquisite surroundings of The Bloomsbury Ballroom and operates two amazing shows weekly. On Fridays swing through the decades with The Best of British Pop, enjoy beloved hits, impressive staging, mesmerising dancers and costumes. Journey from the freedom days of the 60’s and 70’s to London’s punk movement in the 80’s, 90’s Britpop as well as today’s leading anthems. Then enjoy a DJ and dance floor until 3am! For a more suave Saturday evening London Cabaret Club’s 007-themed special, London Never Dies. Be transported to the glamorous Bond world of romance and espionage with gourmet dining and a stunning cabaret show, including groundbreaking 4D special effects.

For group bookings contact:

020 7242 0002

bookings@thelondoncabaretclub.com use code WHERE at www.thelondoncabaretclub.com to get 25% off all ticket tiers

The London Cabaret Club Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, London WC1B 4DA

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NIGHTLIFE Apple Studios signed by The Beatles. Enjoy cocktails, pizzas, burgers and a great vibe. www.hardrock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park.

BYOC At ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’, pay £25, bring a spirit of your choice and the mixologist will create cocktails for you. Booking is recommended. www.byoc.co.uk. 9-11 Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE (and branches). T: 020-3441 2424. Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent.

Cartizze Bar Cocktail destination majoring in timeless luxury, with Art Deco surroundings and delicious bar food including oysters. www.cartizzebar.com. 4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

City Social The bar next to Jason Atherton’s restaurant has an Art Deco interior, a Prohibitioninspired cocktail list and amazing views. www.city sociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Booking Office Bar The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings and stone walls dating back to 1873. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

Wine time Kitty Hawk has launched a new café and wine bar, Back Room Wine Bar, close to Liverpool Street station. The MediterraneanMoorish theme shows in its wine menu, which changes weekly and is provided by Borough Wines via an honesty wine tap (if you can’t wait for the sommelier). You can also order snacks such as cheese and charcuterie boards, bread filled with nuts and seeds, small plates of Moroccan tagines and fish stew. Its grey palette – think tall, concrete walls – is a little bit stark, but it’s softened by the occasional plant, copper lights, patterned (still grey) geometric tiles and smart, navy-leather Chesterfields. 11 South Place, EC2M 7EB. T: 020-3319 9199. www.thekittyhawk.co.uk. D10. Station: Liverpool Street

Experimental Cocktail Club

Freedom This gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its stylish cocktail bar and the nightclub underneath. www.freedombarsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Gong Located in The Shard, Gong is one of the highest Champagne bars in London and the ideal place for sunset cocktails and late-night drinks. www.the-shard.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Gordon’s Wine Bar

Opium Cocktail Bar Tucked away in Chinatown, this is a warren of dimly-lit rooms styled like a ‘20s Shanghai bar. Sip a lychee martini, with a dIm sum menu. www.opiumchinatown.com. Booking is highly recommended. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 0207734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Oriole Number 17 out of the World’s 50 Best Bars in 2017, this spacious cocktail bar is below Smithfield Market. It stages live jazz and blues most nights, all in beautiful, explorer-décor surroundings. www.oriolebar.com. Smithfield Markets, East Poultry Ave, EC1A 9LH. T: 020-3457 8099. D9. Station: Farringdon.

Primo Bar Enjoy cocktails in this laid-back bar, which stages free live music every night. www.primobar.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7282. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Five of London’s London’s oldest wine Underground stations bar has been uncorking bottles are named after pubs, since 1890 in its candle-lit stoneincluding Angel and arched basement. Try to go early to Swiss Cottage Reverend JW Simpson grab a table as it can get very busy. This cocktail bar is a real slice of ‘shabby www.gordonswinebar.com. 47 Villiers St, chic’ – and is the genuine ex-abode of the WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: good Reverend. Scruffy sofas and a laid-back vibe Embankment/Charing Cross. are its hallmark. You can also sign up for a cocktail The Nightjar masterclass. www.revjwsimpson.com. 32 Goodge Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails at this stylish St, W1T 2QJ. T: 020-3174 1155. E7. Station: basement bar in Shoreditch, with live music Goodge Street. most nights. The elaborate cocktails are amazing. Scarfes Bar www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. This elegant bar is named after satirical cartoonist T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street. Gerald Scarfe, who created the caricatures of Old Bengal Bar iconic British figures that are painted on the This place is converted from a former warehouse walls. Enjoy cocktails inspired by famous characters located in a quiet back street, with original brick Scarfe has drawn, with Indian-style bar snacks. walls and leather sofas. Enjoy classic cocktails. www.scarfesbar.com. Rosewood London hotel, www.oldbengalbar.com. 16a New St, EC2M 4TR. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. T: 020-3503 0780. D11. Station: Liverpool Street. D8. Station: Holborn.

St Pancras Champagne Bar Europe’s longest Champagne bar, in the upstairs forecourt of the train station, has a big selection of bubbly. www.searcyschampagnebars.co.uk. St Pancras International, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Six Storeys As the name suggests, this Soho Square townhouse is split over six levels. Each floor is elaborately decorated in a bohemian style, with plush chairs, vintage lampshades and patterned wallpaper. Creative cocktails are its speciality. www.six storeys.com. 11 Soho Square, W1D 3QE. T: 0203504 7381. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Trader Vic’s This tiki-style basement bar is more than 50 years old. Try a mai tai cocktail, surrounded by Polynesian wooden masks. There’s live music on Fri and Sat nights. www.tradervicslondon.com. London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4113. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Trader’s Wine Bar Sample a wide range of wines from around the globe in this intimate venue, which draws inspiration from centuries of merchant ships sailing up the Thames. Try one of the sharing boards of cured meats and cheeses. www.traders wine.co.uk. Ivory House, Central Basin, St Katharine Docks, E1W 1AT. T: 020-7481 3796. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

The Zetter Townhouse Tony Conigliaro is known for his groundbreaking cocktails in this cocktail lounge, with eccentric décor complete with leather armchairs, velvet cushions and a cosy fireplace. www.thezetter townhouse.com. 49-50 St John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4545. Off map. Station: Farringdon.

BACK ROOM WINE BAR © ALEX OATES

In an old Chinatown townhouse, this bar is tucked away but worth the search for its stylish cocktails. Email booking is recommended. www.experimental cocktailclublondon.com. 13a Gerrard St, W1D 5PS. T: 020-7434 3559. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

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CASINOS The Casino at the Empire This spectacular venue houses a restaurant and several bars, plus a dedicated poker room and the latest table and electronic games. www.the casinolsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Hippodrome Casino Huge venue with gaming on three floors, including roulette and baccarat. There’s also a restaurant, plus a basement venue for live music. www.hippodrome casino.com. Cranbourn St, Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Sportsman Casino Traditional and electronic gaming here, including three-card poker and American roulette. Enjoy a poker lounge and sports bar, plus informal dining. www.thesportsmancasino.com. 16 Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3051 4616. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

LIVE ENTERTAINMENT 606 Club This relaxed members’ jazz cellar and restaurant serves great food to blues, R ’n’ B and soul played by British-based independent artists on stage. www.606club.co.uk. 90 Lots Rd, SW10 0QD. T: 0207352 5953. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

The Blues Kitchen This busy music venue stages blues, soul and jazz music most nights, plus a DJ at weekends. There are more than 80 varieties of bourbon and rye. It also serves American-style food such as buffalo wings, gumbo and cornbread in a relaxed environment. www.theblueskitchen.com. 111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN (and branches). T: 020-7387 5277. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Bunga Bunga Part restaurant, part bar, with lots of live entertainment, this new Covent Garden venue has all the makings of a theatrical night out. Enjoy Italian cuisine as you watch the live cabaret acts. www.bungabunga-london.com. 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG. T: 020-7590 3602. D8. Station: Holborn.

The Comedy Store One of the UK’s best stand-up and improvised comedy spots. The Comedy Store Players (Sun) sees the likes of Paul Merton and Neil Mullarkey. www.thecomedystore.co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-871 7699. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

London Cabaret Club British-themed cabaret. ‘Best of British Pop’ fuses acrobatics and dance with hits from the 1960s to the present day. Dinner and VIP tickets available. A DJ takes over until 3am. www.thelondoncabaret club.com. Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, WC1B 4DA. T: 020-7242 0002. D8. Station: Holborn.

Ronnie Scott’s Since 1959, this famous jazz bar has had nightly acts, and now has a family-friendly Sunday jazz lunch, too. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Stringfellows Up to 80 ‘Angels’ dance at tables at Peter Stringfellow’s gentlemen’s club. Free entry when dining. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square. www.wheretraveler.com 67

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SPAS & SALONS | THE GUIDE This image: couple’s massage Below: St Pancras Renaissance London Spa

Double standards While a candlelit meal may be one of the most popular ways to say ‘I love you’, don’t dismiss indulging in a treatment for two at one of London’s leading spas. The experience gives you both the chance to switch off and relax together. The spa at St Pancras Renaissance London Hotel is housed in the Victorian hotel’s former steam kitchens. The treatment menu includes five ‘Journeys’ that are inspired by different parts of the world, from an English garden to Africa. The spa boasts six treatment rooms and, most importantly, a couple’s treatment room; if your session is longer than an hour, you and your partner can access the gym and pool as well (Euston Rd, NW1 2AR). Now in its 25th year, Elemis Day Spa (p. 69) is serious about looking after your skin. While it specialises in facials, during which therapists analyse the ageing of your skin in detail, it also offers massages and a speed spa that has a selection of 15 and 30-minute treatments. ‘This is a couture beauty house – everything is designed around what you want and what you need for the day,’ says Noella Gabriel,

co-founder of Elemis. ‘The menu has been designed to make sure every treatment is action-packed in the most relaxing way. It’s all about flow. The treatments really respect the idea that you’re giving your time. And we will always give back.’ Last year, Elemis’ Mayfair flagship opened a special room for two: The Penthouse. The airy rooftop space, filled with porcelain petals and hand-blown glass lighting, allows you and your partner to enjoy treatments together. The Stop the Clock package (two hours; £300) includes an hour-long treatment of your choosing, from facials to massages. Meanwhile, the Rejuvenate and Restore package gives you three hours to relax with two treatments. If you cannot find what you’re looking for on the menu, the spa takes bespoke bookings. A spa concierge can also arrange a car to take you to your next destination, as well as organise dinner and theatre tickets. Central London is bursting with spas that offer a serene escape from the city’s hustle and bustle. At Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel (p. 69),

the menu offers the treatment Together (80 min; £300) with an aromatherapy massage and skin radiance facial before enjoying a glass of Champagne. Spa Illuminata’s Couples Massage (one hour; £220) gives you the chance to have a relaxing massage, which can be upgraded to a hot stone, steam or scalp massage, or even a facial (p. 69). You’ll be feeling loved up in no time.

MAIN IMAGE © ISTOCK; ST PANCRAS RENAISSANCE LONDON HOTEL SPA COURTESY OF ST PANCRAS RENAISSANCE LONDON HOTEL SPA

Most people think of spas as a solitary experience, but this Valentine’s Day there are plenty of places offering romantic treatments for two, says Kohinoor Sahota

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours. References at the end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map p. 72-73

Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel

SPAS Aveda Institute This three-storey salon offers cuts, colour, blow dries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has a range of treatments lasting 15 and 30 minutes. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.

Body Relaxation High-quality deep-tissue massage directly in your hotel room, apartment or at the Sloane Street studio. Open until late. T: 07941-505982.

Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa This exclusive members-only spa offers day passes for £25. Swim in the 17m pool, use the fitness equipment or visit the Figaro Hair Salon. There are treatment rooms for disabled visitors. www.blueharbourspa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7300 5011. Off map. Station: Imperial Wharf.

Elemis Day Spa This spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes (p. 68). There is a private suite, so you can share the experience with your guest while sipping Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/ dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jurlique Founded by Dr Jürgen Klein, a biochemist, and his wife Ulrike, a botanist, this spa uses their natural skincare range. Treatments include an anti-stress facial, which eases tension in your face, neck and shoulders. www.jurlique.co.uk. 489 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. T: 0800-040 7685. D8. Station: Bond Street.

An oasis of calm in the West End that boasts a 24-hour gym and luxury treatments including a gold age-defying facial and carat-diamond rituals for the face and body. There are also treatments for two (p. 68). www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.

The Spa at Dolphin Square Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.

Spa Illuminata

This is one of the few places in London that offers paraffin wax baths. Special services include weaves, extensions, wig creation and cutting. There’s a hammam, too. www.urbanretreat.co.uk. Fifth floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7893 8333. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Ushvani

Mandarin Oriental

A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and hair cuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.

es Clefs d’Or Concierges

This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:

07879 697478

Late appointments available

Plush spa with a philosophy that is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include a Malay massage and Balinese massage, which incorporate herbs and spices. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Gentlemen’s Tonic

One Aldwych

Total relaxation, revitalising massage.

Urban Retreat at Harrods

This spa has an Asian touch: the gorgeous décor includes a bamboo forest, Mondrian paintings and Japanese shoji screens. Try the warm bamboo massage, where bamboo stalks are used on your body. www.mandaraspa.com. Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.

A luxury spa inspired by Chinese massage methods. Facilities include a 17m pool and a gym. You can book a session with trainer Ruben Tabares – sessions can be held in Hyde Park if you wish. www.mandarinoriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

by qualified female masseuse.

This spa’s menu includes facials, massages and options for men (p. 68). Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. www.spailluminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

SALONSlike obody knows London Mandara Spa

AVENA MASSAGE

This is a stylish men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com. 31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Geo F Trumper

®

...for shops, restaurants, theatre bookings and sightseeing activities in the area

They would be happy to assist you so that you can enjoy the very best that London has to offer in the time that you have to spend with us

where

Hershesons Blow Dry Bar At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it in 30 minutes. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jo Hansford

LONDON HOTEL SPA

ytoeverything www.lesclefsdorgb.org The Refinery

@lesclefsdorgb lesclefsdorgb

This men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional shave to a sports massage. If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a Principles of Shaving lesson. Also available at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.

This hair-colour salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work. The salon also has an in-house chef. www.jo hansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

@lesclefsdorgb

Windle & Moodie lesclefsdorgb

An award-winning hair salon, which specialises in upfront catwalk looks. The 20-minute Speed Styling service includes updos. www.windleand moodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden. www.wheretraveler.com 69

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards

Concierges in the capital use Where London for information – these concierges share their top tips

Ashley Harman

Jacques Conradie

Shankar Bahdur

Chief concierge at Rosewood London

Concierge manager at The Egerton House Hotel

Head concierge at Millennium & Copthorne Hotel at Chelsea FC

What is the most popular request you receive? Since its record wins at the Olivier Awards last year, tickets to Harry Potter and the Cursed Child continue to be a firm favourite request.

Any strange requests? A guest wanted to tour the catacombs at Brompton Cemetery. I was able to organise a private guided tour, which normally is not open to the public.

Any strange requests? I was given the name of a grape and asked to get the wine in less than a day for an important client, which was only available near Mount Etna in Sicily. The mission was accomplished!

Any strange requests? We once handdelivered a few hundred pounds worth of cheese, which a guest had purchased in Harrods and left behind, to the south of Spain.

Tell us why your hotel is so special. We are a pet-friendly hotel and offer a unique afternoon tea for dogs, along with a choice of dog beds, treats and a pet concierge service.

Why is your hotel special? The Pie Room has opened – it sells pastries and offers guests a behind-the-scenes look at how chef Calum Franklin’s pies are made. Any family-friendly ideas? The Postal Museum has its very own mail railway on which guests can ride underneath the bustling streets of London.

Share an ideal day. Visit lesser-known galleries such as The Courtauld, have a lazy lunch at the Sri Lankan restaurant Hoppers, attend evensong at Westminster Abbey and go for dinner at Claude Bosi’s Bibendum And outside of London? Compton Verney is a grand house in Warwickshire.

Why is your hotel special? Millennium & Copthorne Hotel is a part of the west London football club, Chelsea – it is challenging as we have celebrity guests and footballers. Share a romantic idea. Walk beside the Thames in the evening, then enjoy a glass of Champagne inside The Shard overlooking the whole of London.

An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card. It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London. You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £5 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London. Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon. An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.

GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.

London Underground (The Tube) www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The night Tube service runs on Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly lines. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.90 (£2.40 with an Oyster card).

London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card.

London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground Map opposite. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes.

Tell us a hidden gem. Fulham Palace, home of the Bishops of London for over 1,300 years, is full of history and has a botanical garden.

Docklands Light Railway

And outside of London? Visit Leeds Castle in Kent – it even has a dog-collar museum! Hampton Court Palace is just as beautiful and has lots of greenery.

Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands. Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex. Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras King’s Cross International (connects to St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, Charing Cross and southeast England. London Bridge Waterloo Victoria serve southern England. and For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0845-748 4950. St Pancras International. Eurostar uses Visit www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (from outside the UK, T: 01233-617 575).

Above: Harry Potter and the Cursed Child Left to right: Brompton Cemetery; Fulham Palace

Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 020-7363 9700.

Trains

ASHLEY HARMAN © JAMES BEDFORD.COM; JACQUES CONRADIE COURTESY OF THE EGERTON HOUSE HOTEL; SHANKAR BAHDUR COURTESY OF MILLENNIUM & COPTHORNE HOTEL AT CHELSEA FC; HARRY POTTER © CHARLIE GRAY; BROMPTON CEMETERY © ISTOCK; FULHAM PALACE © MATTHEW BRUCE

AT YOUR SERVICE

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ESSENTIALS

Willesden Green

Stonebridge Park Harlesden

Brondesbury Park

Willesden Junction

Kilburn Park Maida Vale Warwick Avenue Royal Oak Westbourne Park

Paddington

Ladbroke Grove Latimer Road

North Acton

Shepherd’s Bush

White City

Shepherd’s Bush Market

Stamford Brook

Ravenscourt Park

West Kensington

High Street Kensington

Green Park

Gloucester Road

Earl’s Court

Goodge Street

Victoria

Hoxton Old Street

Charing Cross

Aldgate East

Monument

Tower Gateway

London Bridge

Embankment

Bermondsey

Canada Water

Parsons Green

Surrey Quays

River Thames

Step-free access from street to platform

Bakerloo

Vauxhall

East Putney

Canning Town

District

Hammersmith & City

Custom House for ExCeL

Blackwall East India

Emirates Royal Docks

Heron Quays

North Greenwich

Elephant & Castle

Jubilee

Metropolitan

Prince Regent Royal Albert

West Silvertown Emirates Greenwich Peninsula

Pontoon Dock

New Cross Gate

Northern

Victoria

Cyprus Gallions Reach Beckton

King George V 17/E/3249/P

Greenwich New Cross

Brockley

Piccadilly

Beckton Park

London City Airport

Mudchute

Cutty Sark for Maritime Greenwich Queens Road Peckham

Circle

Royal Victoria

Island Gardens

Borough

Southfields

Central

Star Lane

Langdon Park

Canary Wharf

Lambeth North

Putney Bridge

East Ham Upton Park

Crossharbour

Southwark

Imperial Wharf

Upney Barking

West Ham

Bow BromleyRoad by-Bow Devons Road

South Quay Waterloo Pimlico

Fulham Broadway

Elm Park Dagenham East Dagenham Heathway

Stratford

West India Quay

Wapping

River Thames

Rotherhithe

Woodgrange Park

Forest Gate Maryland

Abbey Road

Westferry Poplar

Limehouse

Tower Hill

Fenchurch Street

Blackfriars

Pudding Mill Lane

All Saints Shadwell

West Brompton

Step-free access from street to train

Stepney Green

Whitechapel

Aldgate

Cannon Street

Temple

Westminster

Liverpool Street

Bank

Hornchurch

Plaistow Bow Church

St. Paul’s

Ilford Manor Park

Becontree

Bethnal Green Bethnal Mile Green End

Moorgate Chancery Lane

Upminster Bridge

Seven Kings

Wanstead Park

Stratford High Street

Cambridge Heath

Shoreditch High Street

Barbican

Covent Garden

St. James’s Park

Homerton London Fields

Haggerston

Farringdon

Leicester Mansion Square House

Piccadilly Circus

Sloane Square

South Kensington

Holborn

Tottenham Court Road

Knightsbridge

Barons Court

Hammersmith

Regent’s Park

Marble Arch

Dalston Junction

Angel Euston Square Russell Square

Queensway

Caledonian Road & Barnsbury

King’s Cross St. Pancras

Bayswater Oxford Circus

Stoke Newington Leytonstone High Road St. James Rectory Street Road Dalston Stratford Leyton Kingsland Clapton International Hackney Canonbury Hackney Downs Hackney Central Wick

Highbury & Islington

Euston

Warren Street

Edgware Road

Hyde Park Corner

Kensington (Olympia)

Goldhawk Road

Mornington Crescent

Great Baker Portland Street Street

Notting Lancaster Bond Gate Street Hill Gate

Holland Park

Wood Lane

Camden Road

Chalk Farm Camden Town

Finchley Road Swiss Cottage St. John’s Wood

Edgware Road Marylebone

Kentish Holloway Road Town Caledonian Road

Kentish Town West Belsize Park

West Hampstead

Kensal Rise Brondesbury Kensal Green South Queen’s Park Kilburn High Road Hampstead

East Acton

Finchley Road & Frognal

Kilburn

Deptford Bridge Elverson Road

Waterloo & City

DLR

Services or access at these stations are subject to variation. Please search ‘TfL stations’ for full details. Kensington (Olympia) open weekends and on some public holidays

Emirates Air Line cable car

Overground

TfL Rail

*Service and network charges may apply. See tfl.gov.uk/terms for details.

Transport for London

Reg. user No. 17/E/3249/P

Version D 7.2017

Accessible London

Emirates Air Line cable car

Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river service at www.visitlondon.com/ access and www.openbritain.net.

London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). You can buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against you using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk.

Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. 4x4 Vehicle Hire: T: 01245-410535. www.4x4vehiclehire.co.uk. Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 020-8542 0403. www.kendallcars.com. Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk.

Congestion Charge UNDERGROUND SIGN © ISTOCK; MAP COURTESY OF TFL

Improvement works may affect your journey, please check before you travel

There is a congestion charge to drive into central London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Payable in advance or on the day of travel (£11.50), or the day after (£14). UK: T: 034-3222 2222. International: T: +44 20-7649 9122. www.cclondon.com.

River services www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: www.mbnathames clippers.com. MBNA Thames Clippers River Bus serves 22 piers, with departures every 20 minutes. Adult prices start from £4.40. River Roamer ticket (unlimited hop on/hop off all day from 9am). Adult £19; child (5-15) £9.50; Family (two adults, up to three children) just £38. Children under five travel free. Discounts available on MBNA Thames Clippers with a TfL Travelcard, Oyster, or via the app or online.

Correct at time of going to print

On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ legiblelondon.

Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. From £2 for 30 minutes; the first 30 minutes are free. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.

24-hour Tube lines

Coaches

Run Fridays & Saturdays on the following lines. More are due to open soon.

London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe, such as France and The Netherlands. SW1W 9TP. T: 0843-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/ coaches Victoria. Map D4.

DELIVERY Mail Boxes Etc. Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland. Mail Boxes are also trained certified packers. T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.

• Jubilee Line: Across the entire line. • Victoria Line: Across the entire line. • Northern Line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town to High Barnet/Edgware. Night Tube will not stop at Charing Cross. • Piccadilly Line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5. • Central Line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault. www.wheretraveler.com 71

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WHERE NOW | MEERA SYAL CBE

MEERA SYAL CBE ACTRESS AND WRITER Meera is playing Miss Hannigan in the musical Annie. She is famous for starring in the comedy series Goodness Gracious Me and The Kumars at No. 42, and has written the novels Anita and Me and Life Isn’t All Ha Ha Hee Hee What are your favourite buildings?

What place holds a special memory?

Where is your favourite place to eat out?

I love the Natural History Museum; I think it’s a beautiful building. I also love King’s Cross station, and the Victoria and Albert Museum. I think Gothic and Victorian architecture is glorious.

For any actor who has worked at the National Theatre, the South Bank is special. The walk over Waterloo Bridge is amazing – seeing the theatre across the river, as well as Tate Modern and Shakespeare’s Globe. It feels like a cultural hub. It’s a place that means a lot to me professionally.

I’m a great fan of Dishoom. It serves Indian-style tapas. The branch I know best is on St Martin’s Lane. When I play at theatres there, we always go to it between shows. The menu has stuff my mum makes, such as rosewater lassi, but also high-end dishes like mango and duck salad.

How do you prefer to travel?

What is your perfect entertainment?

It’s the Tube all the time. I live quite near a Tube station. My favourite line? The Northern line, mate! Only because I use it the most.

We have the best theatre in the world, ranging from fringe venues to big West End ones. But if I could see any show, it would be Hamilton.

Which galleries do you like? The V&A is constantly surprising. Every time I go, I’m delighted by something new. I’ve been to some fantastic talks about Indian art. What I like is that it does cross-genre stuff a lot: they will link up with art, film or music.

Where do you like to go shopping?

Do you have a favourite café?

Do you have a favourite hotel in London?

I prefer hanging around independent places in Crouch End, Muswell Hill and Covent Garden.

There’s a really nice café called Kalendar, which is on Swain’s Lane in Highgate. It does what you’d expect from a great café: brunch, wonderful morning coffee and pastries. After I’ve been for a walk with a mate, that’s where we go to put back on all of the calories we’ve just got rid of.

Charlotte Street Hotel. It is a nice hotel – I’ve been to screenings there and they do them beautifully.

Tell us about an item you bought. I bought a little 1920s handbag from a tiny shop in Camden Passage in Islington. It was velvet and covered with fish and mermaids. I’m very sad because it fell apart a while ago after lots of mending. The only problem with individual things is that you can never replace them.

Where do you like to drink? I’m not really a pub person, though The Flask in Highgate village is a lovely pub.

Tell us about the musical Annie. I’m playing Miss Hannigan, who is the vicious orphanage owner. She’s bitter, drunk, childless, manless and has the worst job in the world: looking after children. It’s a brilliant part to play and it’s just the most fun I have ever had on stage.

What makes London stand out? What is your favourite green space? It has to be Hampstead Heath – I live so near it and I go there all the time. It’s one of the great jewels of London, all that unspoiled woodland. You can stand in some places and think you are in the middle of the countryside. I still get lost in it; it’s really so loved. Kenwood House is nearby and has just recently been refurbished – it has a fantastic free art collection.

The main buzz and pulse of London comes from it being so multinational. Every community brings its own vibe, flavour, food and music. To 18 Feb. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. www.anniewestend.com Clockwise from top left: Natural History Museum; Meera Syal CBE; The Flask; Covent Garden; Hamilton; Dishoom

NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM © ISTOCK; MEERA SYAL CBE COURTESY OF ANNIE; THE FLASK COURTESY OF THE FLASK; COVENT GARDEN MARKET COURTESY OF COVENT GARDEN MARKET; HAMILTON © JOAN MARCUS; DISHOOM COURTESY OF DISHOOM

My Perfect Day

74 W H E R E LO N D O N I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

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K PA R EY BL EM W

THE WEMBLEY

STADIUM

TOUR

GO BEHIND THE SCENES OF THE UK’S LARGEST SPORTING AND MUSIC VENUE

wembleystadium.com/tours +44 (0)800 169 9933

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THE UNTOLD STORY OF THE WITCHES OF OZ FOR THE BEST SEAT LOCATIONS, CHOOSE PREMIUM SEATS ©WLPL

WickedTheMusical.co.uk • #WickedUK APOLLO VICTORIA THEATRE

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Where Magazine London Feb 2018  
Where Magazine London Feb 2018