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BERLIN CITY GUIDE ®

WHERETRAVELER.COM

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

JUNE 2019

OPEN SKIES Celebrating the 70th anniversary of the Berlin Airlift

PLUS BEST BRUNCH SPOTS BEER GARDENS

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E N T E R TA I N M E N T

SHOPPING

DINING

MAPS 15/05/2019 10:36


» An icon

of Berlin nightlife

» A GIGANTIC Hit! Bravo!!! Broadway World

» Absolutely

perfect!

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Berlin

6.19

CONTENTS

37 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Guide The best of Berlin

     

5 Editor’s Note

19

6 Hot Dates

SIGHTSEEING

Discover the Rote Insel neighborhood, and why it's called that.

Highlights of the month, including the Carnival of Cultures, the Long Night of Science, and KISS.

24

6

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

The Black Image Corporation – a lens into African American aesthetics.

30

30

ENTERTAINMENT

Rock on! This summer is packed with music concerts and festivals.

37

58

16 10

47

 

Berlin's concierges share their city secrets.

52

34 Wohin am Abend

54

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PAGE 56

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SHOPPING

Nothing tastes better than a cold beer on a sunny day in a beer garden, with friends.

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16 Top 5 Brunch Spots

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10 Candy Skies

A reenactment of the Airlift to mark its 70th anniversary.

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BERLIN CITY GUIDE

Find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

Ebertstr.

Sarnath Banerjee A graphic novelists tells us why he lives in Berlin.

ESSENTIALS

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58 My Perfect Day

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

NIGHTLIFE

A taste of Berlin's legendary clubbing scene.

German-language shows and culture

C U LT U R E

DINING

Prix fixe menus let the chef's vision shine.

17 Ask The Concierge

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

SHOPPING

The backpack – the bag of choice for every true Berliner.

Ella-Tre reb be-Str.

GRAPHIC NOVEL: © SARNATH BANERJEE; MILITARHISTORISCHES MUSEUM GATOW: COURTESY OF MILITARHISTORISCHES MUSEUM GATOW; EGGS: COURTESY OF BENEDICT; MUSIC FESTIVAL: COURTESY OF HURRICANE; BACKPACK: © BERLINER BAGS.

The Plan Let’s get started

B Mu

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YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

where

®

M A G A Z I N E

Officially endorsed by

EDITORIAL

EDITOR Solveig Steinhardt EDITORIAL STAFF Jennifer Kronovet,

Annabelle Mallia

THIS MONTH'S CONTRIBUTORS Gabrielle Innes, Jennifer Kronovet, Annabelle Mallia, Sharon Mertins, Joe Stange, Solveig Steinhardt, Serene Tseng GERMANLANGUAGE SECTION

Sylvia Lundschien

EMAIL FOR EDITORIAL STAFF: FIRSTNAME.LASTNAMEWHEREBERLIN.COM OR: INFOWHEREBERLIN.COM

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4 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2019

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WELCOME TO BERLIN ®

Hello Summer! It's summer! Time to get out and join Berliners in one of their favorite activities: enjoying a cold pint under the trees of a beer garden, preferably with something to munch on on the side. Beer gardens are an integral part of German culture even for those who don't like beer. For a little guidance on the beer garden that best suits you, check out Joe Stange's recommendations on page 14.

TM

Local guides. Worldwide. Where magazines can be found on hotel concierges’ desks in more than 80 destinations around the globe

This June also marks a very special anniversary: exactly 70 years ago, the Berlin Airlift saved almost two million West Berliners from starvation when Allied planes delivered provisions to the city while all roads to the city were blocked by the Soviets. On 15 and 16 June, don't forget to look up at the skies as Candy Bomber airplanes reenact those moments with overflights in the city center. And if you are wondering why they were called "Candy Bombers", turn to page 10 and learn more about this incredible military operation that had an impact on the personal lives of many. Enjoy your stay!

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTICK/THINKSTOCK.

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

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®

There’s lots to do in Berlin this June – join the parade at the Carnival of Cultures, listen to great music, and play scientist for a whole evening.

7–10 JUN

CARNIVAL OF CULTURES

Every year Berlin’s multicultural community comes together in Kreuzberg to celebrate diversity. For four days, Blücherplatz is taken over by street artists, theater and dance companies from different countries, activities for kids, and market stalls selling crafts and food from around the globe. The real highlight is the street parade on Pentecost Sunday filled with live music and spectacular costumes. So get ready to dance in the streets! www.karneval-berlin.de

21 FETE DE LA JUN MUSIQUE What better way to celebrate the first day of summer than with a free, open-air music festival? Bands, orchestras, choirs, soloists, and DJs perform music on public squares, along streets, and in parks, bringing a festive atmosphere to every corner of the city. Created in France in 1982, this open-air festival has grown into a worldwide phenomenon taking place in over 300 cities worldwide. www.fetedelamusique.de 6 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2019

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

25-30 KOMISCHE OPER JUN FESTIVAL In the mood for an evening of opera? Each summer the Komische Oper marks the end of the season by showcasing its new productions on six consecutive nights – with a special accompanying program that appeals to all the senses. In addition to enjoying operas such as La Bohème and Candide, audiences are also offered welcome drinks, music in the foyer, stimulating introductory talks, and discussions with the artists. www.komische-oper-berlin.de

4 JUN

ERIC CLAPTON

Eric Clapton is one of the most accomplished guitarists of all time and has influenced blues-rock like no other. His long list of recordings include Layla, with Derek and the Dominos, and Tears in Heaven, following the death of his four-year-old son. His many accolades and collaborations stretching across Clapton’s 50-year-long career bear impressive testimony to his significance. Experiencing him live at the Mercedes-Benz Arena is sure to be unforgettable. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de

15 JUN LONG NIGHT OF SCIENCE On what has been dubbed the “smartest night of the year,” scientific institutions across Berlin and Potsdam open their doors to the public. From late afternoon to midnight, there is a rich program of talks, hands-on experiments, open labs, and special museum tours for kids and adults alike, covering everything from the natural sciences to robotics. One ticket gains you entry into all participating events and a shuttle bus service connecting them. www.langenachtderwissenschaften.de www.wheretraveler.com 7

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

JUNE

KISS

After an epic 45-year career, KISS is doing their final tour, appropriately named End Of The Road. Loved for their outlandish face paint and next-level outfits, KISS concerts are not to be missed. They feature elaborate light shows and pyrotechnic effects, and have been called the “Biggest Rock Show in the World.” KISS mega-hits like I Was Made For Loving You will always be rock classics. They will perform at Berlin’s forest stage, Waldbühne.

www.waldbuehne-berlin.de

14 JUN

48 HOURS NEUKÖLLN

The clock is ticking! For 48 hours the neighborhood of Neukölln is transformed into an experimental gallery with exhibitions, installations, and an all-round party atmosphere. Kids too are invited to partake in hands-on activities. The whole event is the perfect way to see the neighborhood, a multi-ethnic enclave for artists and creative types. Check out their website for details. www.48-stunden-neukoelln.de

Be moved by the World Press Photo Exhibition 2019 at the Willy-Brandt-Haus. The Open Air Gallery turns the Oberbaumbrücke into an art mile. Take a dip in the twin lakes of Krumme Lanke and Schlachtensee. Don’t miss guitar legend Eric Clapton as he performs at the Mercedes-Benz Arena. Hop aboard a river cruise for a relaxing waterside tour of Berlin. Feast on international delicacies at Street Food Thursday at Markthalle Neun. Make a splash at Arena Badeschiff pool, which floats on the Spree with city views. Step back into the dancing ‘80s with Fame – The Musical at Admiralspalast Berlin. Dance to the beat of the loud and colorful street parade at the Carnival of Cultures. Rent a canoe at Klein-Venedig and paddle along the picturesque canals. Take a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie’s free “lunch concert.” Time for all-day clubbing at canal-side Club de Visionäre. Grunewald forest offers a tower, Cold War listening station, lakes, and more. Soak up creative energy at the 48 Hours Neukölln arts festival. Get ready for a Long Night Of Science with fascinating hands-on experiments. The State Opera gets ready for Staatsoper Für Alle - a free concert for all. Electric Monday at Berlin’s infamous Kit Kat Club. Dress code: anything goes. Put your balancing skills to the test at urban climbing park Mount Mitte. Time for some laughter at Strictly Stand Up at Quatsch Comedy Club. Legendary boy band Take That perform tonight at Tempodrom. Celebrate the first day of summer with Fete de la Musique. Sample Asian delights laid out on the lawns of “Thaipark” (Preußenpark). Check out Mauerpark - a mix of Wall monument, flea market, and music! Monday night is salsa night at Clärchens Ballhaus. Beginners’ class starts at 7pm. The Komische Oper Festival opens tonight with their production of Poros. Enjoy an afternoon Espresso Concert at Konzerthaus – it’s “caffeine for the ears”. There are strawberries galore this time of year! Pick your own at Beerengarten. Visit the world’s longest open-air gallery on a 1.3km stretch of the former Wall. Stroll the grounds of Charlottenburg Palace. Anna Blume is made for sharing with their three-tiered brunch platters.

Search for more ideas at wheretraveler.com

48 HOURS NEUKÖLLN: PHOTO BY ERIK MUHS; ERIC CLAPTON: © UNIVERSAL MUSIC; FETE DE LA MUSIQUE: © ISTOCK; CARNIVAL OF CULTURES: © FRANK LOEHMEN; KISS: © JEN ROSENSTEIN; KOMISCHE OPER: PHOTO BY MONIKA RITTERSHAUS; LONG NIGHT OF SCIENCE: PHOTO BY STEPHAN NIESPODZIANY.

4 JUN

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

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A D V E R TO R I A L

Die Berliner Republik

Great food by the water

T

his waterfront restaurant has been pleasing crowds with delicious Berlin cuisine for more than 16 years. Come on a sunny day and you’ll be rewarded with a great atmosphere in the large terrace on the Spree River–– or sit inside for extra coziness if it gets colder. Sample delicious German dishes, such as pork knuckle with sauerkraut and pea purée, the world-famous Currywurst sausage, beef roulade, and stuffed cabbage roulade . Don’t miss

Near S-Bahn Friedrichstraße the delicious Königsberger Klopse with caper sauce, or Berlin-style veal liver with braised onions and apple rings. The chef pays particular attention to quality, avoiding any processed ingredients and selecting produce carefully. Every dish is completely made in-house by his team. Beer also plays an important role at Berliner Republik. Choose between 18 German tap beers covering the whole country from the North Sea (Jever Pils) down to Bavaria (Hacker Pschorr).

Can’t decide? Order a “beer tasting board,” and try five different beers at a time. And since beer prices depend on beer demand, pay attention to the Borsencrash bell, a sort of beer stockexchange bell announcing minimal prices for limited time. It’s great fun! Kitchen open until 5am! Schiffbauerdamm 8. Open daily 10am–5am. T: 03030872293. www.die-berliner-republik.de

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WHERE NOW | AIRLIFT ANNIVERSARY

Candy From T On the 70th anniversary of the end of the Berlin Blockade, Solveig Steinhardt spoke to those who experienced it.

A Candy Bomber plane at the Militärhistoriches Museum in Gatow U.S. Army staff organizes supplies

Candy Bombers at Tempelhof during the Berlin Airlift

Children hoping to collect sweets from the airplanes

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CREDITS: C47 AIRCRAFT PARKED IN FRONT OF THE TERMINAL AT TEMPELHOF CENTRAL AIRPORT DURING THE BERLIN AIRLIFT PUBLIC DOMAIN, HTTP://WWW. TRUMANLIBRARY.ORG/PHOTOGRAPHS/DISPLAYIMAGE.PHP?POINTER=31197; BERLIN BLOCKADE, MILK: PUBLIC DOMAIN FROM U.S. AIR FORCE; C74 GLOBEMASTER UNLOADING FLOUR AT BERLIN GATOW DURING OPERATION VITTLES: BY U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE, IS PUBLIC DOMAIN AND LICENCED UNDER CREATIVE COOMONS CC BY 2.0. CARE PACKAGE: COURTESY OF ALLIED MUSEUM; GATOW: COURTESY OF MILTÄRHISTORISCHES MUSEUM GATOW.

The Sky

SWEETS FOR BERLIN’S CHILDREN On a sunny July day in 1948, one month into the Berlin Airlift, U.S. Liutenant Gail Halvorsen, a C54 pilot, was walking around Tempelhof airport when he ran into a group of local children who were watching planes take off. He went to talk to them and was touched by their excitement. One of the kids reportedly said, “don’t worry about us, we can get by on a little food, but if we lose our freedom, we may never get it back.” Halvorsen gave them two sticks of gum he had in his pocket, and the kids broke them into tiny pieces to share. From that moment on, Halvorsen started adding candy packages to the day’s food drops, attaching them to small parachutes so the children wouldn’t get hurt while trying to catch them. The operation, which was later officially called “Little Vittles,” greatly improved the morale of West Berlin’s population, and the daily candy drops became an important event in the days of Berlin’s children. Because of them, the C54 planes were renamed “Rosinenbomber” (raisin bombers), or Candy Bombers. The Berlin Blockade, a tense phase of the Cold War, was a Soviet attempt to starve West Berlin’s population by blocking almost every way into West Berlin. No trucks, cars, or boats could enter that half of the city. Yet three thin flight paths from West Berlin were open, and by flying food and fuel through those paths for more than 11 months, the Allies ensured Berlin’s survival until the Russians finally lifted the Blockade in June 1949.

Contents of the CARE packages distributed during the Airlift, on display at the Allied Museum.

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WHERE NOW | AIRLIFT ANNIVERSARY The Airlift had a personal impact not just on Berliners, but also on the many veterans that took part in it. Major Ray Roberts, who is now president of the Berlin Airlift Vets Association (BAVA), was one of the youngest crew members. He told us in an email that this was a defining moment of his life. “I was 17 years old, and it was great to have this chance at that age. I was raised on a farm in Texas, but I left school at the age of 14 to join the U.S. Marine Reserve before switching to the U.S. Air Force two years later. It was a thrill to visit Berlin, as much as it was damaged, and to see how strong its people were,” he said.

PERSONAL MEMORIES Mercedes Wild was only seven in 1948, but she still recalls seeing and hearing those planes from her apartment in Friedenau. “I was scared at first: I could still remember WWII bombs, and when I first heard the planes, I thought the city was being bombed again.” Mercedes lived about two kilometers away from Tempelhof airport, and her family received food packages from there like everybody else. “But what really mattered to me then were the parachutes with sweets. I really wanted the candy and chocolate. The planes would drop them onto school yards all along the S-Bahn line in Friedenau. Whenever they came, all the kids ran to grab the candy, but I was never fast enough, and I never managed to catch or receive anything. My mom even took me to Tempelhof, where more planes were dropping sweets, but that didn’t work either. One day, my grandmother came and said, ‘Don’t cry: do something!’” Mercedes decided to write a letter to the airport. On the envelope, she only wrote, “To my Chocolate Uncle,” and in her note she asked the pilots to drop something in her garden. “Months passed, then on a foggy November day I came home from school, and my grandmother handed me an envelope. It contained some gum, which I exchanged at the kids’ black market as I didn’t really know what it was, and a lollipop, which I made last until Christmas. The most important thing was the soldier’s letter, because I decided that I wanted to meet this soldier.” The soldier was

If you want to get a glimpse of the Airlift, head to Brandenburg Gate or Tempelhof Airport on 15 June at 5 pm and 16 June at 1pm, and look up to see fifteen of the original Candy Bombers in flight. To learn more about the This photo: Candy Bomber: Inset, below: exciting events of the Airlift, visit the Food drops in Berlin. exhibition at Tempelhof Airport (p. 39), featuring documents, images, and maps. Liutenant Halvorsen, the Guided tours also include the history of the man who first organized airport from its birth before WWII to the the candy drops. present day. There you can also admire an Mercedes eventually original C54 plane used in the Airlift, which is met him in 1972, and parked in front of the hangars. There is they’ve been good another Candy Bomber – and this one you friends since. “He is now can board – at the Allied Museum (www. 97, and he still comes to alliiertenmuseum.de), housed inside the Berlin to visit.” Wild even wrote former U.S. Army movie theater in Zehlendorf. a book about how that one letter The exhibition there, which also shows the from Halvorsen shaped her life, The contents of the CARE packages distributed Chocolate Uncle. She told Where Berlin, “The during the Airlift, recounts the history of the Allied Forces never felt like occupiers here Allied presence in the city and their in Berlin, they were more like friends, as relationship with the people of West Berlin. they developed relationships with the For more planes, go to the Military History population. I believe that the Airlift is the Museum in Gatow (Am Flugplatz Gatow, reason why Berlin became so open and www.mhm-gatow.de). Or for a very quick cosmopolitan. West Berliners had to view, simply take the U2 U-Bahn line and look quickly get used to seeing people with outside between Bülowstraße and different backgrounds, and it is thanks to Mendelssohn-Bartholdy-Park: there’s a C54 that era that Berlin is now as accepting of plane attached to the roof of the other cultures as it is.” Technikmuseum (p.29).

Tempelhof Airport today

TEMPELHOF AIRPORT: TEMPELHOF, QUELLE_ TEMPELHOF PROJEKT GMBH, WWW.TEMPELHOFERFREIHEIT.DE; ROSINENBOMBER: © ISTOCK; BERLINERS WATCHING A C54 LAND AT BERLIN TEMPELHOF AIRPORT, 1948., HENRY RIES / USAF  UNITED STATES AIR FORCE HISTORICAL RESEARCH AGENCY VIA CEES STEIJGER 1991, “A HISTORY OF USAFE”, VOYAGEUR, ISBN: 1853100757; USAF PHOTO 070119F0000R101 1, US GOV PD;

EXPERIENCING THE AIRLIFT TODAY

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AIRLIFT FACTS 300 Allied airplanes flew over 200,000 flights providing fuel and food to the 2.2 million Berliners. ●

● Berliners received an

average of 2,300 calories a day.

● The Airlift lasted

11 months.

● On Easter Sunday,

1949, at the height of the Airlift, planes were taking off and landing every 90 seconds. That day, planes flew back and forth 1,400 times. ● The Blockade ended

in June, but the Allies, continued the airlift until August to build up a sufficient stockpile of foods.

● 39 British, 31 American soldiers and 13 German civilians lost their lives in the Berlin Airlift.

The monument to the Berlin Airlift at Platz der Luftbrücke.

Take a walk through

Flughafen Tempelhof Guided Tours

Berlin’s history

“YOU CAN

’T MISS

” W O T GA

The Tempelhof Airport Building is a testimony to world history of the 20th century.

Die Geschichte eines Flugplatzes

Neue Ausstellung ab dem 10. Mai 2019

Militärhistorisches Museum der Bundeswehr Flugplatz Berlin-Gatow Am Flugplatz Gatow 33, 14089 Berlin ©ISTOCK

geöffnet Dienstag bis Sonntag, 10–18 Uhr open Tuesday to Sunday, 10 AM–6 PM Eintritt Frei Free admission

®

Berlin

Infos and tickets: www.thf-berlin.de/tour

mhm-gatow.de fb.com/MHMGatow www.wheretraveler.com 13

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BEER GARDEN

There are many types of beer gardens. Joe Stange knows the most authentic ones.

A

ny restaurant can throw a couple of tables outside and hang a sign that says ‘Biergarten.’ That does not make it so. A true beer garden, to us connoisseurs, needs to sprawl a bit. There should be lots of tables and, ideally, plenty of shade. It should be an attraction in its own right, not an afterthought and not a mere accessory. It should be inexpensive, and there should be a counter for Selbstbedienung (self-service) so there is no need to wait for servers or wave them down. You get your own beer and snacks at your own pace. Having said that, an ideal beer garden doesn’t need to perfectly imitate the famous ones of Bavaria. Many of the best in Berlin have their own urban character. Here are our top suggestions. One of the best in Berlin is also one of its

most central. The Zollpackhof (www. zollpackhof.de) sits along the Spree, across the water from the German Chancellery (a.k.a., Angela Merkel’s office), a short walk from either Hauptbahnhof or the Bundestag U-Bahn. Tourist boats cruise by while drinkers relax under an ancient chestnut, drinking Augustiner Hell by the half liter or Maß (full liter). At busier times the beer is poured directly from spigoted wooden barrels, tasting fresher and softer than from a keg. There is a range of food at the self-service counter, from crusty pretzels to roasted pork knuckles to currywurst to pizza. For the youngsters, there is a small playground, ice cream, and room to run around.

CREDITS: FISCHERHÜTTE, COURTESY OF FISCHERHÜTTE; LUISE DAHLEM: COURTESY OF LUISE DAHLEM; ZOLLPACKHOF: COURTESY OF ZOLLPACKHOF. ALL OTHER PHOTOS: © ISTOCK.

a proper

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WHERE NOW | BEER GARDENS Another scenic beer garden is in the far southwest of the city, just a 15-minute walk from either the Krumme Lanke U-Bahn or Mexikoplatz S-Bahn. The Fischerhütte (www. fischerhuette-berlin.de) is a long-running recreation spot for Berliners in a beautiful location on the Schlachtensee lake, next to a popular swimming beach. Many bring coolers and blankets to picnic on the grass and swim, popping over to the beer garden as the mood strikes. Tables and shade are plentiful, and the playground is large. The sit-down restaurant is relatively pricey but at the beer garden there is counter service, pouring Augustiner to drink with pretzels, sausages, and smoked mackerel. The best-known and probably most popular beer garden in Berlin is the Prater Garten (www.pratergarten.de) in Prenzlauer Berg, just south and west of the Eberswalder Straße U-Bahn station. There has been a beer garden here since 1837, when the spot was still on the city’s outskirts. The structures are remnants of when beer gardens offered other entertainments – music, plays, opera, movies – to survive. And survive Prater did; its status as a cultural center helped it to get

BEST OF THE REST BY THE WATER Wirts haus a m P faueninsel: Pfaueninselchaussee 100, www.pfaueninsel.de Wirts haus Moorl a k e: Moorlakeweg 6, www.moorlake.de Grunewa l dturm: Havelchaussee 61, www.restaurantgrunewaldturm.de Loret ta a m Wa nnsee: Kronprinzessinnenweg 260, www.loretta-wannsee.de

WITH A PLAYGROUND

Previous page, main image: a beer garden; bottom: Zollpackhof. This page, from top to bottom: Luise Dahlem, Fischerhütte, a German beer garden, Fischerhütte.

through decades under communism. The scene is lively these days, with plenty of long tables and free-flowing pils and dark lager brewed by the Kindl-Schultheiss plant. It’s no secret; every beer guide mentions the place, but there is room for all. Now for something different. For a neighborhood beer garden where the local vibe is palpable, the Republik-Berlin (www. republik-berlin.de) is just around the corner from the Heinrich-Heine-Straße U-Bahn station. Making the most of a squarish urban lot, surfaced in gravel and wooden decking, the dominant feature is a double-decker bus in the back dubbed the Bierambulanz (yes, “Beer Ambulance”). You can sit in that cozy nook or outside for a breeze, trees, umbrellas, and tables of different shapes. The counter offers a changing handful of interesting beers, from Berlin-brewed IPA to rustic Franconian lager or even more unusual brews. The kitchen output there changes often, rotating different types of street food made by guest chefs as the months fly by and autumn arrives all too soon.

Golgatha Katzbachstraße (Viktoriapark), www.golgatha-berlin.de Luise Da hl em Königin-Luise-Straße 40, www.luise.dahlem.de 12 A p ostoli Hüttenweg 90 www.12-apostoli.de

MEET THE LOCALS Rosenga rten Weinbergsweg 13, www.rosengarten-berlin.de Ma rienhoehe Marienhöher Weg 30, www.bergterrassemarienhoehe.de

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WHERE NOW | TOP 5

5

Top Brunch Spots Gone are the days when a good brunch was a rarity in Berlin. With a surge in the restaurant industry and an influx of foodies from around the globe, the party-hard capital knows how to refuel the (late) morning after a night on the town. By Annabelle Mallia.

Berlin’s first brunch superstar! In true Aussie fashion, Silo serves a smashing breakfast where organic eggs join forces with fabulous bread from Italian baker Sironi. Their signature dish is baked eggs served in a pan with rich tomato sauce and chorizo. Silo is also a haven for coffee lovers, offering pour-over coffee with beans from several specialty roasters. Gabriel-Max-Str. 4, www.silo-coffee.com

Benedict This place is entirely dedicated to the most important meal of the day, serving breakfast 24/7. Hailing from Israel (where the restaurant has five locations), Benedict has indeed convinced

Berliners that time doesn’t matter when it comes to breakfast. Serving everything from the namesake eggs Benedict to a Vietnamese omelette to shakshuka, Benedict serves delicious food coupled with a super chic interior. Uhlandstraße 49, www.benedict-breakfast.de

and followed by an incredible slice of cake. Kollwitzstraße 83, www.cafe-anna-blume.de

madame, or Okinawan taco rice. Johannisstrasse 20, www.houseofsmallwonder.de

Anna Blume

House of Small Wonder

Named after a poem, this café is beautifully romantic, and it’s also connected to a sweet-smelling flower shop. The highlight of their menu is their breakfast special for two: a feast of savory and sweet treats like ricotta and wild garlic cheese and Tyrolean bacon served on a three-tiered platter – best enjoyed by sweethearts on the leafy terrace

It’s not just the interior design at House of Small Wonder that’s delightful, but also what comes out of the kitchen. The restaurant’s culinary concept follows the footsteps of its Brooklyn counterpart with an all-day brunch menu consisting of classic European comfort food and Japanese dishes – try their croissant French toast, croque

At the restaurant of the Adlon Kempinski hotel, you’ll find tables stacked high with gourmet cold cuts and cheeses, fresh regional fruits, and carafes of exotic juices. However, the real standouts are their caviar bar and the cooking stations where chefs are ready to perfectly prepare pancakes or any egg dish you may desire. Unter den Linden 77, www.kempinski.com

From top to bottom: House of Small Wonder; Silo; eggs at Benedict; the interior of Anna Blume; the interor of Benedict.

Bel Etage

BENEDICT INTERIOR: PHOTO BY MAX BROWN; BENEDICT DISH: COURTESY OF BENEDICT; ANNA BLUME: COURTESY OF ANNA BLUME; SILO COFFEE: COURTESY OF SILO COFFEE; HOUSE OF SMALL WONDER: PHOTO BY STEFAN KÜHNE.

Silo

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WHERE NOW | CONCIERGE

Ask the

CONCIERGE

From top to bottom: The TV Tower; the canals of Kreuzberg; Brandenburg Gate.

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierges. Sebastian Schmidt from Hotel Adlon Kempinski Berlin shares his insider tips. www.lcdg.org

When you have visitors what do you show them? This depends entirely on the guest and their preferences, but a special highlight in Berlin is, of course, its history – the division between East and West. What are your secret Berlin tips? Explore the heart of Berlin's neighborhoods by checking out places like Maybachufer/Paul-LinkeUfer, Kollwitzplatz, and the Winsviertel quarter. Describe Berlin in three words. Multicultural, fast-paced, multi-faceted.

SEBASTIAN SCHMIDT: COURTESY OF SEBASTIAN SCHMIDT; ALL OTHER PHOTOS: ©ISTOCK.

What do you do after work? I visit one of the many places in Berlin where you can get a cool drink and enjoy the sunshine. Tell us something about your hotel. It is one of the most famous hotels in Germany in an unbeatable location. What is your wildest experience as a concierge? State visits are always an interesting experience.

potatoes, and vegetables, topped with a Béarnaise sauce. What sets Berlin apart from other major cities? As a true Berliner, it is simply home for me. Do you know a romantic place in Berlin? The Botanical Garden. Your tip for enjoying the Berlin nightlife? Start in one of the countless bars and then just let the night drift away. What special way do you recommend to discover Berlin? Zigzagging through the city on bike. The perfect Berlin souvenir is for you ... A planned date for the next visit. A great place to go at sunset? To one of our hotel apartments overlooking the Brandenburg Gate with the sun setting in the background. Where can you find the perfect view over Berlin? The observation deck of the Kollhoff or TV towers.

Busy Berlin! But where is the best place to relax? In the greenery on the banks of the Spree river or looking out over the rooftops of Berlin. Tips for a German specialty? The Filettopf Marjellchen at restaurant Marjellchen – fillets of pork and beef, fried

YOUR CONCIERGE IS HAPPY TO HELP! Talk to your concierge if you need assistance with restaurant reservations, concert tickets, spa services, booking transportation, shipping goods home, or simply to ask for recommendations.

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THE PERFECT

- BERLIN WEEKEND -

Berliners definitely know how to make the most out of every weekend. Follow our guide to join them with two full days of food, fun, entertainment, and culture.

SATURDAY SUNDAY -----------------------------------------------12:30pm: Head on foot to Museum Island, enjoying the walk through Monbijoupark and along the Spree River. Once there, check out the Ancient Egyptian collection at the Neues Museum, including the iconic bust of Nefertiti, or admire classical sculptures at the Bode Museum. -----------------------------------------2:30pm: After a quick bite at Monsieur Vuong (Alte Schönhauser Str. 46, www. monsieurvuong.de), one of the most popular Vietnamese restaurants in the city, do a little shopping around one of the city’s best boutique districts, browsing around Mulackstraße, Alte Schönhauser Straße, and Weinmeisterstraße. ---------------------------------------5pm: Ride the elevator to the top of the famed TV Tower at Alexanderplatz and for a drink at sunset. ----------------------------------------8pm: After freshening up, head out to super-chic Tausend (Schiffbauerdamm 11, www. tausendberlin.com). Restaurant, bar, and club in one, it’s the perfect spot to enjoy great Asian-fusion cuisine and cocktails and then dance into the night.

11am: Indulge in a long brunch at Russian-Jewish restaurant Pasternak (Knaackstr. 22–24, www. restaurant-pasternak.de), where the loaded buffet includes things like blini pancakes filled with creamy cheese, devilled eggs with caviar, and smoked fish. --------------------------------------1:30pm: It’s a pleasant walk from there to the popular flea markets at Arkonaplatz and Mauerpark, which are great for antiques, retro knick-knacks, handcrafts, and people watching. --------------------------------------------3pm: From Mauerpark, head down the road to the Berlin Wall Memorial, where you can explore a moving monument to the Wall’s victims (Bernauer Str. 111, www.berliner-mauergedenkstaette.de). -----------------------------------4pm: Take the S-Bahn to Tiergarten for coffee and cake at lovely Café am Neuen See (Lichtensteinallee 2, www.cafeamneuensee.de), then take a scenic stroll through the park. -------------------------------------7:30pm: At the edge of Tiergarten is the 25hours Hotel – head up to the penthouse for a fresh, IsraeliMediterranean dinner at NENI, inclusive of gorgeous views over the city.

©ISTOCK; DISTRIKT COFFEE COURTESY OF DISTRIKT COFFEE; NENI COURTESY OF 25HOURS HOTELS

10am: Grab a table at Distrikt Coffee in Mitte (Bergstr. 68), where buttermilk pancakes, poached eggs, and great coffee will get the day off to the right start.

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SIGHTSEEING

SIGHTSEEING

ALL PHOTOS BY S.R: STEINHARDT. NEXT PAGE: COURTESY OF CAFÈ SIBYILLE.

Rote Insel views.

Historical Seclusion

H

idden in the district of Schöneberg is the Rote Insel (“Red Island”), an area entirely untouched by the Allied air strikes of WWII – a difficult feat considering 35% of central Berlin was destroyed. If you look at a city map, the neighborhood stands out. It’s locked in by a distinctive triangle of railway lines (hence “island”), and the only way to gain access is by crossing a bridge over the tracks. While half of the area was initially used as Prussian army grounds, the buildings were later populated by workingclass, left-wing voters (hence “red”), up until the end of WWI. A walk around the Rote Insel’s tree-lined streets gives you a unique

glimpse into pre-war Berlin. The best way to explore this neighborhood is to follow the Insel Tour (www.inseltour-berlin.de), a self-guided tour leading you to 19 stations, each one featuring illustrations and short texts explaining the historical significance of the site. The tour visits the Queen Luise Memorial Church on Gustav-Müller-Platz, a charming specimen of neo-Baroque architecture and the Twelve Apostles Churchyard, considered one of the most important graveyards in Berlin. You’ll read the story of Annedore and Julius Leber and their influential resistance fight against the Nazis and about the life and work of painter Hans Baluschek, who was

fascinated by the urban and industrial scenes buzzing around him. The most famous celebrity associated with the area is no doubt Marlene Dietrich, who was born here at Leberstr. 65 (the building bears a mural in her honor) and went on to become a Hollywood film star. The most visible landmark of this Insel is the gasometer, which local residents of the early 1900s fought tooth and nail against in fear of gas poisoning and explosions and has since been declared a historical monument. Book a gasometer tour (gasometer1@gmail. com) and admire the whole Rote Insel from above. ANNABELLE MALLIA www.wheretraveler.com 19

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SIGHTSEEING

The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon– Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin

other German, and the majestic Konzerthaus. In the middle of the square stands a monument to Germany’s most acclaimed poet of all time, Friedrich Schiller. U Französische Straße, Stadtmitte. E3

Hackesche Höfe This series interconnected courtyards is a great example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Haus der Kulturen der Welt

Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals because of its curvy shape, the Haus der Kulturen der Welt was built as a congress hall in 1956. The building quickly became a symbol of western freedom and creativity, in contrast to East German architectural projects of the time. Computer-guided chime concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm and the building now hosts concerts and intercultural events. Open daily 10am–7pm. € prices vary. www.hkw.de.John-Foster-DullesAllee 10. What used to be the city’s most T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3

DID YOU KNOW?

icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has central airport is now a witnessed the city’s best and four-hectare public park, and the Kaiser-Wilhelmworst moments, from the military runways are used for cycling, Gedächtniskirche parades of the Third Reich to the skating, and many This church’s bombed-out Wall being raised and torn down. other sports. bell tower has been an anti-war Formerly behind GDR borders, today memorial and a symbol of West Berlin the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for ever since its ruins were restored to their festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist present state in 1957. The old church’s ruins now snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3 host an exhibition of before and after photos documenting its former splendor and showing the Charlottenburg Palace Ku’damm before the bombs. Look up to admire The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of what is left of the old mosaic. Open daily from King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of 9am to 6pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later U Zoologischer Garten, Kurfürstendamm. C4 years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus park surrounding the castle includes a formal The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, French-style garden, English garden with pond and the area still retains its ancient character, and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The although most of the buildings in the narrow castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is T: 030.9694200. now a museum. Other points of interest include U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3 the Ephraim Palais Museum and the BiedermeierGendarmenmarkt style Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleThe harmonious square was named after the class townhouse that escaped WWII damage. gens d’armes, a Prussian army regiment of French Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Huguenots. Designed in the late 1600s, it includes www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. two symmetrical cathedrals, one French and the S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

THE BERLIN WALL

1961 Walter Ulbricht,

head of the Socialist Unity Party, erects a barbed-wire fence dividing Germany into two parts.

Main moments in the Wall’s 29-year history.

1963 West Germans

wishing to visit the East must obtain a visa from the government.

1963 US President

John F. Kennedy delivers his “Ich bin ein Berliner” speech at West Berlin’s Rathaus Schöneberg.

Panoramapunkt am Potsdamer Platz In 20 seconds, an elevator whisks you to the top of a 100m-high platform with one of the best views in Berlin. Visitors can enjoy drinks and cake at the café, with the city’s skyline as a backdrop. Daily 10am–8pm (until 6pm Nov–Mar). €6.50/5. www.panoramapunkt.de. Kolhoff Tower, Potsdamer Platz 1. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Potsdamer Platz and Sony Center Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza, filled with cafes and cinemas; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

HISTORIC SITES

Also see HISTORY MUSEUMS in the MUSEUMS & GALLERIES section Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist’s aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

1970 Economic

dissatisfaction grows in East Germany, as food supplies run short. 22 strikes attest to the civil unrest.

1974 Günter

Guillaume, aide to West German chancellor Willy Brandt, is arrested as a spy.

XXXXXXXXX

MAJOR SIGHTS

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SIGHTSEEING hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Karl-Marx-Allee Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

Stasi Prison

The majestic entrance of the Berlin Zoo (this page) features two life-sized elephants holding a wooden pagoda roof.

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving

stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. S Bernauer Straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

Cold War Black Box This small building near Checkpoint Charlie provides a good introduction to the history of the Cold War through maps, videos, historic documents, photographs, and objects. Open daily 10am–6pm. €5/2. Under-14s free. www.zentrumkalter-krieg.de. Friedrichstr. 47. T: 030.2163571. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

1984 East Germany

boycotts the Summer Olympic Games in Los Angeles.

1987 Ronald Reagan

gives a speech at Brandenburg Gate demanding that Mikhail Gorbachev “tear down this wall.”

East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall’s eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße,S Ostbahnhof. G4

Haus der Wannsee Konferenz In 1942, this idyllic lakeside villa hosted the Nazi meeting in which Adolf Eichmann decided to carry out the “Final Solution.” The plan was to systematically exterminate 11 million Jews throughout Europe. Today, the museum hosts a memorial and a small exhibit displaying shocking documents and photographs from the concentration camps. Open daily 10am–6pm. € free. Am Großen Wannsee 56-58. www.ghwk.de. 030 8050010. S Wannsee, then bus 114. Off Map

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24

1989 Dismantling of

the Iron Curtain begins as Hungary cuts the barbed wire around its border.

1989 9 November:

Socialist Politbüro member Schabowski mistakenly tells a press conference the border will be opened immediately.

Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Mawp

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears) Until 1990, the departure hall of the Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” The permanent exhibition Border Experience: Everyday Life in Divided Germany recounts the effects of the border on German residents of the time. Tue–Fri 9am–7pm (Sat–Sun until 6pm). Free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17. T: 030.46777790. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

FAMILY ATTRACTIONS Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that

1989 By 11pm that night, 1990 On the eve of 3 thousands of Berliners have swarmed Wall checkpoints and guards open the borders.

October, the city officially celebrates its first German Unity Day with fireworks and bells.

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SIGHTSEEING provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Combined Zoo-Aquarium ticket: www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Domäne Dahlem City Farm A real farm in the Berlin suburbs, with a manor house from the 1600s, boasts farm grounds that are still in use, complete with all the usual barnyard animals. There’s also a small exhibition of ancient agricultural tools and a Saturday-morning farmers’ market. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm in summer. Farm: Free except during special events. Museum: €3/1.50. www.domaenedahlem.de. Königin-LuiseStr. 49. T: 030.6663000. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there’s even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). Discounts if you book online. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com. Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Sea Life & AquaDom Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and lovely seahorses are just some of the 5,000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16-m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. Dscounts when booking online). Under-3s free. Combined tickets with Madame Tussauds, Berlin Dungeon, and Legoland also available. www.visitsealife.com. Spandauer Str. 3. S Hackescher Markt, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

POTSDAM Biosphäre Potsdam This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-HalemannAllee 99. T: 0331.550740. Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam’s Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted “a place to be without cares.” The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque

park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg.de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

TOURS & WALKS Tempelhof Airport Building MUST SEE What used to be the city’s most central airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park whose six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other sports. The airport building, built in Nazi times and later used by the Allies, is a symbol of the city’s eventful history, and offers guided tours every Wed, Fri, Sat, and Sun. www.thf-berlin.de. T: 030.200037441. Tempelhofer Damm. S Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke, U Boddinstraße. Off Map

Berlinagenten These luxury tour agents specialize in “urban lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to exclusive locations, people, shops, and clubs. Offerings include a “Pimp Me Up” spa and makeover tour, culinary experiences, private house visits, limo tours, and – for an authentic urban experience – a graffiti workshop. From €300. www.berlinagenten.com. Bornholmer Str. 4. T: 030.43720701.

Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.

CooLTourings Segway Tours Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlin-ways.de. T: 030.26321381.

Trabi World

Eastern Bloc Flavors

With its grand and imposing Stalinist architecture, Karl-Marx-Allee is an impressive remnant of the communist era. Built in the 1950s as East Berlin’s major artery, it was created for the main officials of the East German government, featuring luxury apartment buildings as well as shops, restaurants, bars, and the Kino International movie theater, which still stands today in all its Soviet splendor. Café Sibylle, one of the era’s most popular cafés, is a perfect example of the area’s retro charm. In addition to a menu of coffee, cakes, and snacks, Café Sibylle offers a small exhibition on the post-WWII reconstruction of Karl-Marx-Allee, and lets visitors climb to its gorgeous rooftop terrace, from which they can enjoy dizzying views of the Allee in all its glory. Call ahead to book terrace access. Karl-Marx-Allee 72. www.cafe-sibylle.de

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For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.orate one mile of the Wall’s eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

RIVER TRIPS Reederei Riedel Fourteen ships take visitors on 1-, 1.5-, and 3-hour cruises of the city’s canals and rivers. www.reederei-riedel.de. T: 030.67961470.

Stern und Kreis Schiffahrt Choose from 30 different boat tours along the city’s rivers and canals, including bus-boat combination tours of the Brandenburg region. buchung.sternundkreis.de. T: 030.5363600.

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A D V E R TO R I A L

Blooming Gardens BRITZER GARTEN: COURTESY OF GRÜNBERLIN GMBH; PAVILION: PHOTO BY OLE BACKER; PALM TREES: PHOTO BY DOMINIK BUTZMANN: CHINESE GARDEN AND CABLE CAR: PHOTOS BY DIRK TONN.

Roses In Full Bloom At Britzer Garten

Discover The Gardens Of The World International garden culture meets music, games, fun, and relaxing moments. Here you can choose to go on a world tour, admire exotic flowers and plants from close and let your soul wander. As a result of the International Garden Exhibition (IGA) in 2017, you will find here interesting theme gardens and many new attractions. A cable car now connects the districts of Marzahn and Hellersdorf, but also hovers over the gardens and offers a unique view of the Berlin skyline. In ten themed gardens, tradition meets contemporary garden art, and local art meets international flair. Don’t miss this horticultural and historical journey to Bali, Japan, China, Korea, and Europe, or just lie down and enjoy the sun on one of the many lawns or on the free sunbeds and chairs. www.gaerten-der-welt.de. Blumberger Damm 44 (12685 Berlin). Daily from 9am, €7.50. #gartenderwelt

Up until the 1920s, the rose gardens of the borough of Britz supplied cut roses to the whole city. Today, Britzer Garten follows the district’s floral tradition with 90 hectares of garden artistry, restaurants, and visitor attractions, which also include a 12,000 sq. m. rose garden featuring many rose varieties, some of which have been growing here since 1867. The rose garden is enclosed within geometrically sculpted yew hedges that provide a stunning background to the lushly blooming roses. There are topiary pyramids and balls, numerous high-stem roses, and a

very inviting semi-circular bench. June is the best time to visit this part of Britzer Garten, as all the rose plants are in full bloom. www.britzer-garten.de. Mohriner Allee 152 (Bus 181). Daily from 9am, €3. T: 030.70090730. www.wheretraveler.com 23

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

A photograph by Isaac Sutton, 1965.

N

owadays, questions of identity are the focus of many great contemporary artists. Theaster Gates, American conceptual and installation artist, curated a fascinating exhibit on African American identity and aesthetics, The Black Image Corporation, which opened this month at Martin Gropius Bau (p. 28). This show draws from the black-owned Johnson Publishing Company’s massive archive of four million photographs, mostly taken for the company’s two magazines, Ebony and Jet. These influencial magazines, marketed to African American readers, shaped modern

aesthetics in the United States, and the exhibit explores the complex relationship between aesthetics and black identity. The exhibition opens with ten large-scale prints, which stand in contrast with the 100+ photographs displayed in four cabinets. One can even flip through original copies of Ebony and Jet magazines, both founded in the 1940s. The magazines covered a wide array of topics, from historical moments, such as the 1963 March on Washington, to achievements like news of Robert Henry Lawrence Jr. becoming the first black astronaut, to political developments, to

celebrity gossip. Seeing them in a museum context showcases the importance of represention in the media. Much of the exhibition focuses on works by two prominent press photographers, Isaac Sutton and Moneta Sleet Jr. Both photographers worked for the Johnson Publishing Company at a time when there was hardly any media created by and for African Americans, and the latter was known for his Pulitzer-winning photograph of Martin Luther King Jr.’s wife Coretta Scott King, portrayed at her husband’s funeral. Catch the images on display until 28 July. SERENE TSENG

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A History Of Black Excellence In Media

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

HISTORY MUSEUMS DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €9.80/6. www.ddr-museum.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Erlebnis Europa

Ephraim Palais

PREVIOUS PAGE: ISAAC SUTTON, 1965: PHOTO COURTESY: JOHNSON PUBLISHING COMPANY, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Temporary exhibitions on local cultural history fill this great Baroque building. Demolished in 1935, the Palais was rebuilt in 1983 using its original façade, which had been stored in a warehouse for almost 50 years. Open Tue, Thu–Sun 10am–6pm, Wed noon-8pm. €7/5 (under 18s free, first Wed of month free entry). www.stadtmuseum.de. Poststr. 16. T: 030.24002162. U Alexanderplatz. F3

Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg Museum Kreuzberg enthusiasts can learn more about the history and radical legacy of this legendary neighborhood at this small museum housed in a typical red-brick building. Open Wed–Sun noon–6pm. www.kreuzbergmuseum.de. Adalbertstr. 95a. T: 030.50585233. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

D O O F E H T FOR S EYE

Peluquería, 1979 © Ouka Leele . Design naroska.de

Experience Europe in the heart of Berlin! Take a seat in their 360° cinema for a plenary session of the European Parliament, take on the role of a Commissioner of the European Union in their simulation game, discover EU members states with facts and figures and stories from daily life, or simply take a European happy snap to send home. All in 24 European languages. Open daily 10am–6pm. Free Admission. www.erlebnis-europa.eu. Unter den Linden 78 T: 030 22802900. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neoGothic setting. To 25 Feb: Berlin 1937. In the Shadow of Tomorrow. Examining the false sense of normalcy Berlin felt in 1937, right before the Nazi seizure of power. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/4 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5. T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

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Museums Calendar Our roundup of the best exhibitions this month.

LYNN CHADWICK – BEASTS OF THE TIMES

Seven artists explore humanity’s fascination with the afterlife.

Joint retrospective on the British sculptor’s works.

BAUHAUS AND PHOTOGRAPHY. ON NEUES SEHEN IN CONTEMPORARY ART

Georg-Kolbe-Museum & Haus am Waldsee, to 1 Sep:

STRONG FIGURES. GREEK PORTRAITS FROM ANTIQUITY

WEIMAR: THE ESSENCE AND VALUE OF DEMOCRACY

A CHANGE OF SCENERY 2.04

Greek portraiture, traditions, and culture.

Preservation and archiving in times of war.

A historical overview of gay and lesbian movements in Germany.

REALITIES:UNITED. FAZIT

Berlinische Galerie, to 18 Aug:

Caillebotte’s iconic Impressionist work comes to Berlin.

THE BLACK IMAGE CORPORATION

Deutsches Historisches Museum, to 22 Sep:

LEITER. LYNCH. NEWTON: NUDES

Newton Foundation, to 19 May:

Images of contemporary AfricanAmerican identity and beauty.

Around 100 works by Andrea Mantegna and Giovanni Bellini.

CINDERELLA, SINDBAD & SINUHE

ESCAPE INTO ART? THE BRÜCKE PAINTERS IN THE NAZI PERIOD

BERLIN 18/19 Märkisches Museum, to 19 May: The November Revolution in Berlin and its repercussions, visible to the present day.

27 SAXOPHONE

Museum of Musical Instruments, to 7 Jul Celebrating the year of the saxophone.

MANTEGNA AND BELLINI

Gemäldegalerie, to 30 Jun:

A look at Arab-German storytelling traditions.

BEYOND

me Collectors Room, to 18 Aug:

A dialog between contemporary art and the avant-garde of the 1930s.

The museum’s first exhibition to be dedicated to nude photography.

Martin Gropius Bau, to 28 Jul:

Neues Museum, to 18 Aug:

Schwules Museum, to 30 Jun:

Brücke Museum, to 11 Aug:

The everyday life of defamed and former Brücke artists during the Nazi period. Gustave Caillebotte’s Rue de Paris, temps de pluie on show at the Alte Nationalgalerie.

FOOD FOR THE EYES

C/O Berlin, from 8 Jun:

The story of food in photography.

Mauer Museum (Haus am Checkpoint Charlie) This privately-run exhibit explores the means and tools used by East Germans to escape the GDR until 1989: Trabant cars with hidden doors, hot air balloons, tunnels, and chairlifts were just some of the crafty inventions devised by GDR residents. Open Mon–Sun 9am–10pm. €12.50/6.50. www.mauermuseum.de. Friedrichstr. 43-45. T: 030.2537250. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Museum in der Kulturbrauerei What was life like in Communist East Germany? The permanent exhibition Everyday Life in the GDR at the Kulturbrauerei answers this question with such diverse objects as breakfast dishes, sports uniforms, and ad posters, as well as witness accounts, film material, and more. The aim is to preserve a cultural memory of a country that may no longer exist, though its legacy lives on. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm). Closed Mon. € free. www.hdg.de. Knaackstr. 97. T: 030.467777911. U Eberswalder Straße. F1–F2

Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake

trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €6/4.50. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

ANCIENT ART MUSEUMS Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many

works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian world. Altar room closed for restoration through end of 2019. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S Hackescher Markt. E3

GUSTAVE CAILLEBOTTE RUE DE PARIS, TEMPS DE PLUIE (STRASSE IN PARIS, REGENWETTER), 1877 ÖL AUF LEINWAND, 212,2?× 276,2?CM ART INSTITUTE OF CHICAGO © CHARLES H. AND MARY F. S. WORCESTER COLLECTION

Altes Museum, from 19 Jun:

Museum of Photography, to 25 Aug:

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MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57.

and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. T: 030: 32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. Following the process of restoration and conservation of the stately aristocrat’s portrait. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

C/O Berlin MUST SEE One of our favorite spots for contemporary photography. Housed in the Amerika Haus, the former American library, the gallery showcases exhibitions by well-known international artists, such as Annie Leibovitz, Martin Parr, Nan Goldin, Anton Corbijn, Peter Lindbergh and Irving Penn. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/6. www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

The Temporary Bauhaus-Archiv Celebrate 100 years of Bauhaus in Berlin! While the original Bauhaus-Archiv/Museum für Gestaltung is being renovated and extended and will remain closed until further notice, visit the temporary space with the bauhaus-shop® in Charlottenburg. Every Saturday, 10am–2pm: bauhaus_lab | drop in. Engage with design in a practical way! Admission free. Open daily, except Sunday, 10 am–6 pm. www.bauhaus.de Knesebeckstr. 1-2 T: 030/30641768, U Ernst-Reuter-Platz D4

Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm),

Bröhan Museum Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects

Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Hamburger Bahnhof The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.smb. museum. Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. Open Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre.

Emil Nolde A German Legend

The Artist during the Nazi Regime

April 12 September 15, 2019 Hamburger Bahnhof – Museum für Gegenwart – Berlin

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www.smb.museum www.emilnoldeinberlin.de

Credit: Emil Nolde, Brennende Landschaft / Burning Landscape, detail, no date, watercolor, © Nolde Stiftung Seebüll

ART AND DESIGN

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www.helmutnewton.com. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” Wed–mon noon–6pm. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Museum Barberini Potsdam Located in a reconstructed palace in the historic center of Potsdam, this museum houses the collection of founder and patron Hasso Plattner. Exhibitions range from Old Masters to contemporary art with a focus on impressionism. With the Barberini App you can choose your own audio tour. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. €14/10 (€8 after 6pm; kids and students free). Alter Markt, Humboldtstr. 5–6. T: 0331 236014499. Off Map

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat and Sun 11am-6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

PalaisPopulaire

ASISI PANORAMA BERLIN

IMMERSE YOURSELF IN THE MONUMENTAL PANORAMA AND EXPERIENCE THE EVERYDAY LIFE IN THE 1980S IN BERLIN Checkpoint Charlie Friedrichstr. 205 10117 Berlin daily 10am – 6pm U-Bhf. Kochstraße asisi.de | die-mauer.de/en

With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. www.db-palaispopulaire.de. Unter den Linden 5. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Sammlung Boros No more than 12 guests at a time can visit this former Nazi bunker turned art gallery. Collector Chistian Boros bought the historic building in 2003 to fill it up with contemporary art by artists like Damien Hirst, Olafur Eliasson, and more. Open by appointment only (book online). €12. www.sammlung-boros.de. Reinhardtstr. 20. T: 030.27594065. S+U Friedrichstraße. E2/E3

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Turn On, Tune In, Drop Out

SCIENCE MUSEUMS Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

COURTESY OF PALAIS POPULAIRE.,

Museum of Communication An entertaining journey through the history of communication inside the neo-Baroque building that once hosted Berlin’s post office museum. Robots welcome visitors and iPads make perfect tour guides through the most intriguing steps in the development of postal and telephone communication, all the way to the era of information technology. Open Tue 9am–8pm, Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm. €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger Str. 16. T: 030.202940. U Mohrenstraße, Stadtmitte. E3

Menschen Museum The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent

Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 T: 030.8891408591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Museum of Natural History Home to the world’s largest mounted dinosaur skeleton and to Europe’s first original T. rex, the natural history museum also features a rare speciment of Archaeopterix, as well as extensive collections of shells, insects, and mammals. Tue– Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/5. www. museumfuernaturkunde.berlin. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.8891408591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

The best

events in town

FAMILY MUSEUMS

Also see FAMILY ATTRACTIONS in the SIGHTSEEING section Computer Game Museum The first-ever museum for computer games worldwide. Embark on a journey through time covering six decades of gaming history, including things like Giant Joystick and Painstation, Arcade Hall and Wall of Hardware. Visitors can test most of the games. The museum is situated 5 minutes away from Alexanderplatz. Open daily 10am–8pm. €9/6. www.computerspielemuseum.de. Karl-Marx-Allee 93a. T: 030.60988577. U Weberwiese. G3

Deutsches Spionage Museum (German Spy Museum) Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutsches-spionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3

©ISTOCK

In the summer of 1967, the “Summer of Love” in San Francisco was in full swing as a counter to the U.S.’s involvement in the war in Vietnam. Love, peace, and music became a way of life not only for the hundreds of thousands of hippies in the Bay Area, but for a whole generation across the world. Summer of Love. Art, Fashion and Rock & Roll, showing at the PalaisPopulaire (p. 28), uses historical photographs, rock posters, music, record art, and clothing to explore the lasting cultural and political impact of the hippie and anti-war movement. From 20 June.

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ENTERTAINMENT

M

usic festivals and outdoor concerts are some of the best things about summer – together with ice cream and the beach. The relaxed vibe, festive atmosphere, great location, and good music combined can be the best way to forget about our daily routines – like taking a vacation from the everyday. All of this is even more true if the event takes place in a Renaissance castle, moat and drawbridge included, such as at the Spandau Zitadelle. The Spandau Citadel music festival is a three-month-long concert series that brings big stars, such as ZZ Top (11 Jun), The Smashing Pumpkins (5 Jun), and the Dead Kennedys (15 June) to a gorgeous and timeless outdoor setting. On the same

side of town, the Waldbühne, a historical amphitheater in the middle of the forest, is the perfect venue for more music under the stars. Highlights this month are KISS (4 Jun), Fleetwood Mac (6 Jun), as well as the Berliner Philharmoniker (29 Jun) for something less wild. Those who equate music festivals with Woodstock-style, weekend-long affairs will have to wait until September, when the Berlin edition of the Chicago-based Lollapalooza festival hits the town with two exciting days of music, arts & crafts, and fun. If you can’t wait that long, however, take a train to Germany’s biggest

festivals, Rock im Park and Rock am Ring (www. rock-im-park.de, www. rock-am-ring.de). Taking place 7–9 June in Nuremberg and Eifel respectively. These two events feature a giant lineup of almost 70 rock bands, including Alice in Chains, Slash, and Die Ärzte, while the two sister events, Hurricane (near Hamburg, www.hurricane.de) and Southside (in Bavaria, www.southside.de), both taking place on 21–23 June, will feature stars such as Mumford & Sons, Foo Fighters, Die Toten Hosen, Tame Impala, and The Cure. Here’s to summer. SOLVEIG STEINHARDT

HURRICAN MUSIC FESTIVAL: ALEXANDER SCHLIEPHAKE; CROWD: PHOTO BY CHRISTOPH EISENMENGER.

A Summer Of Music

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ENTERTAINMENT

BALLET & OPERA Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. www.deutscheoperberlin.de. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. www.komische-oper-berlin. de. Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Best o f Tour -

Staatsoper Unter Den Linden Berlin’s historic opera house reopened in 2017 after lengthy renovations. Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. www.staatsoper-berlin. de. T: 030.2035540. Unter den Linden 7. U Alexanderplatz. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. www.staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

CLASSICAL CONCERTS Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

THE 12 TENORS

Mit So ng Queen s von Micha e , Beatl es, Leo l Jackson, nard C ohen u.v.m.

June 11 to July 06 Tickets 030. 39 06 65 50 // www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de

Hochschule für Musik Hanns Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. www.berliner-philharmoniker. de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Pierre Boulez Saal Berlin’s newest concert hall is part of the Barenboim-Said Akademie, an institution dedicated to bringing together talented young musicians from Arab, Israeli, and Christian backgrounds. A unique, modern design by the venerable Frank Gehry design ensures stunning acoustics, and co-founder Daniel Barenboim makes regular appearances on stage. www.wheretraveler.com 31

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ENTERTAINMENT

Our roundup of the best shows happening this month.

Opera KOMISCHE OPER 2, 16 Jun: Ball im Savoy (Abraham) 11 Jun: Petruschka / L’Enfant et les Sortilèges (Stravinski and Ravel) 25–30 Jun: Komische Oper Festival

DEUTSCHE OPER 1 Jun: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart) 2, 7, 18 Jun: Don Quixotte (Massenet) 19, 22 Jun: Carmen (Bizet)

STAATSOPER 2, 5, 8, 12, 14, 26, 29 Jun: Rigoletto (Verdi)

20, 25, 28 Jun: Tristan und Isolde (Wagner)

Classical CHAMBER MUSIC HALL 3 Jun: Chamber Music 9, 11 Jun: Scholars of the Karajan Academy 23 Jun: Daniil Trifonov

PHILHARMONIE

4, 11, 18, 25 Jun: Lunch Program 1, 6, 7, 8, 13, 14, 15, 16, 20, 21, 22 Jun: Berliner Philharmoniker 2 Jun: Organ at the Philharmonie (David Briggs)

KONZERTHAUS 1, 5, 11, 19, 26 Jun: EspressoKonzert 1 Jun: International Music Academy Gala Concert 3 Jun: Mariinsky Theater of St. Petersburg Orchestra 8, 9 Jun: Konzerthausorchester Berlin (Eliahu Inbal) 11 Jun: Festival Strings Lucerne 13 Jun: Building Bridges 14, 15 Jun: Konzerthausorchestra Berlin (Sir András Schiff) 14 Jun: C. Bechstein Klavierabend 17 Jun: Akademie für Alte Musik Berlin 27 Jun: An Evening with Christiane Karg, Antoine Tamestit, Malcom Martineau

Pop, Rock, Jazz

COLUMBIA-HALLE 27 Jun: The B-52s 28 Jun: Walk Off The Earth

Dance, Musicals, Cabaret, Variety STAATSBALLETT Throughout June: Balanchine, Forsythe, and Siegal, at the Staatsoper. Throughout June: Romeo and Juliet, choreography by Cranko, music by Prokofiev, at Deutsche Oper.

CHAMÄLEON THEATER All month: Memories of Fools.

TEMPODROM

Bryan Ferry

SPANDAU CITADEL 5 Jun: The Smashing Pumpkins 11 Jun: ZZ Top 15 Jun: Dropkick Murphys 29 Jun: King Crimson

FRIEDRICHSTADT-PALAST

1 Jun: Bryan Ferry 20 Jun: Take That 25 Jun: Caetano Veloso

All month: VIVID Grand Show

ADMIRALSPALAST

MERCEDES-BENZ-ARENA 4 Jun: Eric Clapton in concert 12 Jun: Van Morrison 20 Jun: Bryan Adams

WALDBÜHNE 4 Jun: KISS 6 Jun: Fleetwood Mac 29 Jun: The Berliner Philharmoniker

1–8 Jun: Fame, the classic American musical.

WINTERGARTEN VARIETÉ All month: Let’s Twist Again, Rockabilly Hits & acrobatics.

TIPI AM KANZLERAMT 11–30 Jun: The 12 Tenors, “Best of” Tour.

www.boulezsaal.de. Französische Str. 33D. T: 030 47997411. U Französische Straße. E3

T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin

MOVIE THEATERS

heated swimming pool floating on the Spree River. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, U Schlesisches Tor. G4

CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz

B Flat Jazz Club

Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de. Tickets: 030.20298715.

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Sophiensaele Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18.

Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Small jazz bands play almost every night, while Wednesdays offer free jam sessions. www.b-flat-berlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 13. T: 030.2833123. U Rosenthaler Platz. F2

Cinestar Sony Center

Columbiahalle/C-Halle

The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. S Schöneberg. C5

The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www.columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Havanna

ROCK, POP, JAZZ

The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton. Check website for program. www. havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30. T: 030.7848565. S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5

A-Trane

Lido

Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Arena The enormous former bus depot now presents events as diverse as rap concerts and roller derby and features a cocktail lounge and the Badeschiff, a

A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program. www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de.

BRYAN FERRY: PRESS SHOT; NEXT PAGE: POETRY FESTIVAL: SARAH KAY: COURTESY OF POETRY FESTIVAL BERLIN.

Concert Calendar

8 Jun: Philharmonie “Late Night”r 12 Jun: Krystian Zimermanr

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MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57.

Wed–Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

KulturBrauerei

THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS

The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser Allee 36. T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

Quasimodo One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de. Kantstr. 12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

SO36 The heart of Kreuzberg’s radical scene. The Dead Kennedys and Die Toten Hosen played here a few times, while today’s program ranges from punk and hard rock concerts to flea markets and tea afternoons. www.so36.de. Oranienstr. 190. T: 030.61401306. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10.

Poetry Time

Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast.de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where audiences can experience a young genre that mixes acrobatics with music, dance, and visual arts. www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin MUST SEE With the biggest stage in the world, this is Berlin’s most spectacular theater and a must-see acccording to The New York Times. Take in

ENTERTAINMENT

special effects and glitzy Vegas-style live shows. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Kookaburra Tuesday is English Comedy Night at this popular comedy club, and there’s also an English intermezzo late on Saturday nights. www.comedyclub.de. Schönhauser Allee 184. T: 030.48623186. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Neuköllner Oper Berlin’s fourth and recently opened opera house. While the others commit themselves to interpretations of known works, the Neuköllner Oper invents new pieces inspired by everyday life in its own unglamorous neighborhood. A theatrical rendition of a Berlin night. English surtitles. www.neukoellneroper.de. Karl-Marx-Str. 131–133. T: 030 68890777. U-Karl-Marx-Straße.Off map.

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. www.tipi-amkanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Berlin is a poetry town. Poets flock here from all over the world for the energized writing scene and to live in a town full of readers – have you seen all those books on the U-Bahn? Every summer, Berlin celebrates the art of poetry with the Poetry Festival Berlin – eight days and nights of readings, talks, performances, publisher showcases, and other cheerfully experimental poetry-based events. Even if you’re not a die-hard poetry fan, checking out one of these events can be a fun entry into the diverse and innovative world of contemporary poetry. The tag line for this year’s festival is “Finally time for language,” and will feature writers who bring multiple languages into their work. Many events are primarily in English or are simultaneously translated. The festival is put on by Haus für Poesie (House for Poetry) and takes place from June 14-20 at the Akademie der Künste (Hanseatenweg 10). www.haus-fuer.poesie.org JENNIFER KRONOVET www.wheretraveler.com 33

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WOHIN AM ABEND PP S H TISCH E G AUS DEUT T AUF MEN AI N AN T R E E NT N G E R M I

Das Berliner Theatertreffen 2019: Branchentreffen und Bühnenhighlights

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Z

ugegeben: Die Berlinale mit Blitzlichtgewitter und hoher Promidichte ist vielen vertrauter als das Berliner Theatertreffen, das vom 3. bis 20. Mai 2019 zum 56. Mal stattfindet. In seiner Bedeutung steht es dem Film-Spektakel aber in nichts nach. Gegründet 1963 in politisch bewegten Zeiten – zwei Jahre zuvor wurde die Berliner Mauer gebaut – wurde es zu einer Art kulturellem „Schaufenster des Westens“. Doch die Grundidee hat sich bis heute gehalten, nämlich ein „Bild vom Stand des deutschsprachigen Theaters“ abzugeben. Fast genauso unverändert blieb die Struktur des Theatertreffens: zwei Wochen lang werden zehn herausragende deutschsprachige Inszenierungen im Haus der Berliner Festspiele oder an anderen Spielorten

in der Hauptstadt gezeigt. Mittlerweile ist das Festival vor allem Branchentreff, Karrierebeschleuniger und Plattform für Ideen sowie Diskussionen über die Theaterszene hinaus. Der Theaternachwuchs hat mit dem sogenannten Stückemarkt eine wichtige Programmsäule, denn hier werden neue Werke und Ideen präsentiert. Weitere feste Punkte sind die internationale Gastspielplattform „Shifting Perspectives“, das Format „TT Kontext“ mit Panels und Diskussionen sowie der Theatertreffen-Blog, der als digitale Festivalzeitung fungiert. Abgerundet wird das Event mit Veranstaltungen für Jugendliche sowie Lesungen und Kurzfilmen. Herzstück des Festivals ist jedoch die „Top Ten“ der besten deutschsprachigen Stücke – darunter

waren bereits Inszenierungen von Heiner Müller, Katharina Thalbach, Christoph Schlingensief, Thomas Ostermeier oder dem Rimini Protokoll zu sehen. Berliner Bühnen sind regelmäßig in der Bestenliste vertreten. 2019 sind es Unendlicher Spaß von David Foster Wallace in den Sophiensælen (Sophienstraße 18, www. sophiensaele.com), Persona nach Ingrid Bergman am Deutschen Theater (Schumannstraße 13A, www.deutschestheater. de) und Oratorium des Kollektivs She She Pop am HAU (Hallesches Ufer 32, www.hebbel-amufer.de). Das Kollektiv erhält in diesem Jahr auch den mit 20.000 Euro dotierte Theaterpreis des Festivals, den unter anderem bereits Pina Bausch, Bruno Ganz, Frank Castorf, Elfriede Jelinek und Sophie Rois entgegennahmen. Programm und Tickets unter www.berlinerfestspiele.de SYLVIA LUNDSCHIEN

© ARNO DECLAIR, ARNO@IWORLD.DE, BIRKENSTR. 13B, 10559 BERLIN

Persona

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English-language listings continue on page 37

BÜHNEN Berliner Ensemble Eine der renommiertesten Bühnen Deutschlands. Neben Stücken von Gründer Bertolt Brecht stehen weitere Theaterklassiker und aktuelle gesellschaftliche Themen auf dem Spielplan. Zudem gibt es Führungen von Werner Riemann, der seit über 50 Jahren im Haus tätig ist und Brechts Frau, Helene Weigel, noch persönlich kannte.www.berliner-ensemble.de. Bertolt-Brecht-Platz 1. T: 030 28408155. S+U Friedrichstraße. U Oranienburger Tor. E3

Berliner Schnauze „Komm’se ran, jetzt fängt dit Theater an!“ So begrüßt Marga Bach ihr Publikum im Mundartund Comedy-Theater. Die Kabarettistin und Sängerin gründete das Theater „Berliner Schnauze“, damit der Berliner Dialekt nicht ausstirbt. Jeder, der den frechen Dialekt liebt, hat hier was zu Lachen. www.berliner-schnauzetheater.com. Karl-Marx-Allee 133. T: 030 42020434. U Weberwiese. G3

Deutsches Theater Wirft man einen Blick auf den Spielplan des Deutschen Theaters, fallen sofort Größen wie Brecht und Goethe ins Auge. Neben Klassikern findet hier auch zeitgenössisches Autorentheater den Weg auf die Bühne. Die Stücke werden auf drei Bühnen inszeniert: Im Großen Haus, im Kammerspiel sowie in der Blackbox im Foyer. www.deutschestheater.de. Schumannstraße 13A. T: 030 28441225. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Distel Seit 65 Jahren zeigt das in Deutschland legendäre Kabarett-Theater politische Satire. Die Bühne befindet sich im Vorderhaus des Admiralspalastes, das Publikum setzt sich aus allen Gesellschaftsschichten zusammen. www.distel-berlin.de. Friedrichstraße 101. T: 030 2044704. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Grips Theater Politische Themen im Kinder- und Jugendtheater? Das Grips Theater setzt diese gekonnt um. Seit vielen Jahren schon werden hier aus den Problemen, Themen und Bedürfnissen des jungen Publikums Geschichten entwickelt. Die Komödien werden oft musikalisch begleitet und sollen Kindern und Jugendlichen Mut machen. www.grips-theater.de Altonaer Straße 22. T: 030 39747477. U Hansaplatz. C3

Maxim Gorki Theater In diesem international ausgerichteten Haus sollen Menschen zusammenkommen – unabhängig von ihrer Herkunft, Religion und Identität. Ziel ist es, im Zusammentreffen soziale wie kulturelle Konflikte sowie politische und ökonomische Krisen zu reflektieren. Alle Inszenierungen sind ab der zweiten Vorstellung mit englischen Übertiteln versehen. www.gorki.de. Am Festungsgraben 2. T: 030 20221115. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Monbijou-Theater In drei Holzhütten mit rustikalem Charme werden im Winter Märchenklassiker der Gebrüder Grimm und Hans Christian Andersen für die ganze Familie aufgeführt. Nach der Vorstellung kann man in der hauseignen Pizzeria essen und sich mit einem heißen Getränk aufwärmen. Im Sommer wird im Amphitheater unter freiem Himmel das Publikum zum Lachen gebracht. www.monbijou-theater.de. Monbijoustraße 3. T: 030 288866999. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Neuköllner Oper Der Komponist und Kirchenmusiker Winfried Radeke gründete 1973 die Neuköllner Oper mit der Absicht, ernsthafte Unterhaltung mit gutem

HIGHLIGHT

3. 5. 11. 12. JUNI

WOHIN AM ABEND

Humor zu verbinden. Von der Barockoper bis zum Musical, von der Operette hin zum experimentellen Musiktheater ist alles dabei. Mit 160 Uraufführungen in nur 36 Jahren ist es das produktivste Musiktheater Europas. www.neukoellneroper.de. Karl-Marx-Straße 131-133. T: 030 68890777. U Karl-Marx-Straße. U Rathaus Neukölln. Außerhalb der Karte.

Renaissance Theater Das Renaissance Theater ist das einzige vollständig erhaltene Art-Déco-Theater Europas und steht daher unter Denkmalschutz. Autoren wie Bertolt Brecht oder Arnolt Bronnen fielen hier durch ihre provokanten Stücke auf. Aber auch internationale Autoren feiern in diesem Theater die Uraufführungen ihrer Werke. www. renaissance-theater.de. Knesebeckstraße 100. T: 030 3159730. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3

Schaubude Berlin Zu alt fürs Puppentheater? Definitiv nicht, denn in der Schaubude Berlin werden Stücke des Puppen-, Figuren- und Objekttheaters für jedes Alter gespielt. Um dieses Genre der Theaterkunst den Kindern näher zu bringen, kooperiert die Schaubude mit Schulen und Kitas.

Ferngesteuert Virtuelle Schnitzeljagd – so lässt sich das Happening Remote Mitte des Kollektivs Rimini Protokoll wohl am besten beschreiben. Mit Kopfhörern und durch eine künstliche Stimme geleitet betreten die Teilnehmer die Invalidenfriedhof in Berlin-Mitte und eignen sich die Stadt als Gruppe und doch ganz individuell neu an. Der Audiowalk der besonderen Art dauert knapp zwei Stunden und ist nicht barrierefrei. www.gorki.de

Kleines Theater am Südwestkorso Wer es gemütlich mag, sollte das Kleine Theater besuchen. Alle Stücke sind Erstaufführungen, darunter auch unterhaltsam-musikalische Hommagen. In unmittelbarer Nähe befinden sich Ateliers, Galerien sowie das Grab von Marlene Dietrich auf dem Friedhof in der Stubenrauchstraße. www.kleines-theater.de. Südwestkorso 64. T: 030 8212021. U Rüdesheimer Platz. S+U Bundesplatz. C5

COURTESY OF REMOTE MITTE

Komödie am Kurfürstendamm Die Bühne in der City West ist für zahlreiche Film- und Fernsehschauspieler, aber auch Musiker und Entertainer zur zweiten Heimat geworden. Trotz des Umzuges in das Übergangsquartier im Schillertheater bleibt die Komödie am Kurfürstendamm eines der niveauvollsten Unterhaltungstheater Deutschlands. www.komoedie-berlin.de Bismarckstraße 110. T: 030 88591188. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3 www.wheretraveler.com 35

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WOHIN AM ABEND

English-language listings continue on page 37

www.schaubude.berlin. Greifswalder Straße 81-84. T: 030 4234314. S Greifswalder Straße. G1

Theater an der Parkaue Das Repertoire des Theaters richtet sich an Kinder, Jugendliche, Schulklassen, junge Erwachsene sowie Familien. Gezeigt werden nicht nur Märchen, bekannte Stücke oder Klassiker, sondern das Theater bietet auch Workshops, Theaterclubs oder eine jährlich stattfindende Winterakademie an. www.parkaue.de. Parkaue 29. T: 030 55775252. S+U Frankfurter Allee.

Theater unterm Dach Zusammen mit der Wabe befindet sich das Theater unterm Dach im kulturellen Zentrum des Ernst-Thälmann-Parks. Sowohl etablierte Regisseure sowie Stücke von Nachwuchskünstlern werden hier ins Programm aufgenommen. Professionalität und Themenoffenheit sind der Leitsatz der Spielstätte. www.theateruntermdachberlin.de. Danziger Straße 101. T: 030 902953817. S Greifswalder Straße. G1

Tipi am Kanzleramt Das große Zelt im Tiergarten bietet ein umfangreiches Programm an Musicals, Magie, Kabarett, Tanz und Theater in Verbindung mit der hauseigenen, anspruchsvollen Küche. Ein Genuss für Augen, Ohren und Gaumen! Viele der Shows sind jedoch nur auf Deutsch. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T:030 39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Volksbühne Die Volksbühne vereint bildende Kunst, digitale Kultur, Kino, Musik, Performance, Tanz und Theater in einem Haus. Das durch den Zweiten Weltkrieg fast vollständig zerstörte Theater wurde zu Beginn der 1950er Jahre wieder aufgebaut. Einige Stücke gibt es mit englischen Übertiteln. www.volksbuehne.berlin. Linienstraße 227. T: 030 24065777. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Die Wühlmäuse Wer die Wühlmäuse besucht, geht mit einem Muskelkater vom Lachen hinaus. Das 1960 von Dieter Hallervorden gegründete Kabarett-Theater verzeichnet regelmäßigen Bühnenbesuch von Dieter Nuhr, Ingo Appelt oder Heinz Rudolf Kunze. Auch Konzerte und Lesungen sind fester Bestandteil des Programms. www.wuehlmaeuse.de. Pommernallee 2-4. T: 030 30673011. U Theodor-Heuss-Platz. A1

Schaubühne am Lehniner Platz In dem alten Kinogebäude am Kurfürstendamm werden moderne Klassiker inszeniert, die das Publikum zum Nachdenken anregen. Für internationale Gäste werden auch Stücke mit englischen und französischen Übertiteln gespielt. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. T: 030 890023. U Adenauerplatz. C4

sowie Logen mit Bedienservice den neusten Kinofilm zu einem wunderbaren Erlebnis. Kein Wunder also, dass im Zoo Palast auch die Berlinale zuhause ist und internationale Stars wie Tom Hanks, Jodie Foster oder James Stewart bei Premierenfeiern über den roten Teppich flanieren. www.zoopalast-berlin.de. Hardenbergstraße 29A. T 0180 5222966. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

VERANSTALTUNGSORTE Radialsystem

KINOS

Wer schon einmal über die Spree geschippert ist, kam dabei vielleicht auch am Radialsystem vorbei. Das im Jahre 1881 erbaute Pumpwerk liegt direkt am Flussufer. Durch seine großen Fenster wird die prunkvolle Backsteingotik mit Licht geflutet. Regelmäßig treten hier Tanz- und Gesangsensembles auf. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstraße 33. T: 030 28878850. S Berlin Ostbahnhof. G3

Astor Film Lounge

Hebbel am Ufer

Ein Kino mit Klasse. Hier treffen moderne Stile und Art Déco aufeinander. Versinken Sie in bequemen Ledersesseln und lassen sich vom exzellenten Kinoprogramm und Service verwöhnen. www.berlin.astor-filmlounge.de. Kurfürstendamm 225. T: 030 8838551. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Yorck Kino Das Gründungskino der Yorck-Gruppe befindet sich in Kreuzberg und repräsentiert das, wofür alle Yorck-Häuser stehen: Kino der stilvollen Art. Gezeigt werden hier nicht nur Arthousefilme und US-Produktionen, sondern vormittags laufen Kita- und Schulprogramme. Viele Filme werden auch auf Englisch gezeigt. www.yorck.de. Yorck- straße 86. T: 030 78913240. U Mehringdamm. E4

Zoo Palast Im November 2013 wurde der restaurierte Zoo Palast wiedereröffnet und macht in sieben Sälen

In den drei Häusern HAU1, HAU2 und HAU3 präsentiert das Hebbel am Ufer Tanz, Theater und Performances. Sie verfügen über kein eigenes Ensemble, sondern stellen die Spielstätten für Festivals, Gastspiele und Koproduktionen zur Verfügung. Dabei sind bildende Kunst, Musik und theoretische Debatten feste Bestandteile des Programms. www.hebel-am-ufer.de. Stresemannstraße 29. T: 030 25900427. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Heimathafen Neukölln Einfach, direkt und für jeden zugänglich – so das Selbstverständnis des Volkstheaters. Die Leitung bringt unter dem Motto „Wir sind Volkstheater“ neuinszenierte Stücke von Alt-Berlinern in Form von Poetry-Slams, Lesungen, Konzerten und vielem mehr auf die Bühne. Ein Crossover der Genres, Kulturen und Stile. www.heimathafenneukoelln.de. Karl-Marx-Straße 141.

HIGHLIGHT

In Szene gesetzt Das Performing Arts Festival bündelt vom 28. Mai bis 2. Juni als Nachfolger des 100-Grad-Festivals die freie Szene Berlins und lockt damit auch viele Theaterfans in die Stadt. Neben Performance-Profis zeigen auch Newcomer eine Woche lang ihre künstlerischen Arbeiten. Für das nationale wie internationale Publikum wird zudem ein anspruchsvolles Rahmenprogramm präsentiert. www.performingarts-festival.de

COURTESY OF PERFORMING ARTS FESTIVAL

BIS 2. JUNI

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SHOPPING

Backpack designs by Berliner Bags.

Backpacks Made Right

© ISTOCK. PHOTOS COURTESY OF BERLINER BAGS

I

t doesn’t take long to realize that Berliners love backpacks. And it makes sense: backpacks are practical, comfortable, and convenient, and they are perfect in Berlin, where you can go from biking around the city to visiting museums to dancing at a club all in one day and want to make sure you have what you need. Berlin has upped the backpack game, with local brands designed and sometimes even made in the city. These bag makers value style, functionality, and sustainability. One of them is Ucon Acrobatics (www.ucon-acrobatics.com), which produces bags and backpacks with a clean, modern design and in understated colors like black, gray, and navy to go with the city’s dress code. One of their signature

products is the urban roll-down top backpack; you can find it stocked in various boutiques across the city, such as Titus Zoopreme in Charlottenburg (Meinekestr. 2) , or purchase it online. Berliner Bags (www.berliner-bags.com) offer a more vintage feel. All backpacks, messenger bags, and purses are made from leather and are inspired by the school bags of the early 1900s. Designed in Berlin by the brand’s founder, Kees, the products are handmade by experienced craftspeople in Rajasthan using vegetable-tanned leather. For something truly unique, and an excellent talking point, the bags made by the not-for-profit upcycling brand Mimycri (www. mimycri.de) are produced from rubber boats

that were used by refugees to reach Europe. These backpacks are highly durable and weather proof. The brand sells backpacks, fanny packs, and tote bags handmade by a small team in their Neukölln workshop and can be purchased online. If a traditional backpack simply isn’t your thing, Berliner twin sisters are behind Marin et Marine (Reichenbergerstr. 136, www. marinetmarine.com), a label known for its French-inspired, drawstring backpacks. Also, tausche (Raumerstr. 8, www.tausche.de) messenger bags are a versatile alternative – they’re designed as a mix-and-match concept with changeable, never-boring “bag flaps.”

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THE

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57.

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN combines shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin’s west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace. But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frequently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin.de.Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a

children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof One of the biggest department stores in Germany, this flagship of a national chain features 36,000 sq. m. of shopping across six floors. With trendsetting global fashion labels and footwear, sporting, lifestyle, and beauty brands, plus a children’s world and expansive gourmet section, there’s truly something for everyone – right in the heart of the city. www.kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with

SIZING GUIDE SHOES UK

US

CLOTHES Euro

UK

WOMEN 3 4 5 6 7 8

5 6 7 8 9 10

8 9 10 11 12 13

XS S M L

6 8 10 12 14 16

8 9 10 11 12 13

2 4 6 8 10 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

MEN (CHEST) 41 42 43 45 46 47

S M L

34 36 38 40 42 44

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

CHILDREN

CHILDREN 7 8 9 10 11 12

Euro

WOMEN 36 37 38 39 41 42

MEN 7 8 9 10 11 12

US

Outfit by Talbot Runhof, Schlüterstraße 50. Bag by MCM, Kurfürstendamm 186.

24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

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SHOPPING perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

EXPLORE ALEX A SHOPPING CENTER

KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Westens)

A L E X A AT A L E X A N D E R P L AT Z M O - SA 1 0 a m - 9 p m

The biggest and oldest department store in continental Europe sells only products of the highest quality. If you’re short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

NEW FOOD COURT MORE THAN 170 SHOPS, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT

Mall of Berlin 300 shops on four floors, a gym, and pedestrian areas define the Mall of Berlin at Leipziger Platz – a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist highlights. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße E3

FASHION Annette Görtz Inspired by geometric lines and the use of “non-colors” such as black, beige, white, and gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines comfort with understated elegance. www.annettegoertzcom. T: 030 20074613. Markgrafenstr. 42. U Stadtmitte. E3

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Blue Tomato No matter if you’re cruising on snow, water, or asphalt, this sports store has everything a rider’s heart desires. From snowboards, skateboards, and surfboards to the finest selection of streetwear, sneakers, and accessories from top brands like Burton, Volcom and Vans, this is a real boarder’s paradise. www.blue-tomato.com. Nürnberger Str. 13. T: 030.21966647. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

A L E X AC E N T R E .CO M

Selected shops for the savvy shopper

Gobi Cashmere The first European store of this luxury Mongolian cashmere manufacturer opened in December 2016 to bring organic, high-quality cashmere fashion and fabrics produced in Asia to the highest standards. www.shop-gobi.com/en/. Knesebeckstr. 30. T: 030.22466513. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Goldsteg Designer Outlet This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8. T: 030 51307933. S Savignyplatz. B4 One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com. Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations). T: 030.8852545.U Adenauerplatz. B4

©ISTOCK

Max Mara

®

Patrick Hellmann

Berlin

Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for

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2

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SUMMER Get ready for a colorful summer!

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1. Primark, Alexanderplatz 6. 2. Swarovski, Boulevard Berlin, Schloßstr. 3. Marc Cain, Friedrichstr. 61. 4. Swarovski, Boulevard Berlin, Schloßstr. 5. Skiny, www.skiny.com. 6. Marc Cain, Friedrichstr. 61. 7. Primark, Alexanderplatz 6. 40 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2019

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The Concept Store Trifecta

timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Wellensteyn Founded in Germany 60 years ago as a brand for workers, Wellensteyn is now a high-class label for quality technical jackets that are also stylish, as well as other items for the outdoor life. www.wellensteyn.com. Europa Center. Tauentzienstr. 9-, 12. T: 030.23927186. U Kurfürstendamm. C4. Grunerstr. 20. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 T: 030.27583926. Friedrichstr. 58. T: 40744747. U Stadtmitte. E3

SUPER: COURTESY OF SUPER CONCEPT STORE.

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Zalando Outlet The popular online shopping fashion market has a large outlet store in Berlin, featuring 1000 square meters of fashion and accessories from the world’s top brands, sold at even lower prices. www.zalando.de. Köpenicker Str. 20. T: 0800.3300996. U Schlesiches Tor. G4

SHOES & ACCESSORIES Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 was based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories by many other brands round off the offering. www.boots-and-shoes.de. Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.92031876. S + U Zoologischer Garten. C4 Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Falke Flagship Store This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12. T: 030.20647995. U Mohrenstraße. E3

New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www.neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. Hackescher Markt. F2

Part store, part restaurant, part hangout, the SUPER concept space is the kind of place that compels you to stay longer than you would expect. Located on BIKINI BERLIN’s rooftop, the store is filled with carefully curated design items and homewares, many from local designers, that set themselves apart by being just a little bit different – but in the very best kind of way. An arty bottle opener, designed in Berlin, might be the souvenir you were looking for. But the space is not just a store, the attached restaurant-bar serves international fusion fare made for sharing, and the light- and plant-filled indoor space and terrace are both perfect for taking a peaceful break with a view of the zoo, even if just for coffee and cake. Budapester Str. 50, www.super-space.de

Unützer Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www.unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10. T: 030.88916710. U Uhlandstraße. C4

JEWELRY & WATCHES Aris Diamond Since 1906, ARIS has been specializing in diamond jewelry, delivering everything from pendants, necklaces, and earrings, to fabulous engagement rings. Got a special occasion coming up? Check out their new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. www.arisdiamond.com. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Juwelier Leicht im Hotel Adlon This jewelry shop has its own manufactory and also carries luxurious brands like Omega, Glashütte Original, and more. Check out Leicht’s marvelous creations, each uniquely manufactured with gold and precious stones. www.leicht-jewellery.com. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2290212. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Schmelter Juwelen Pearls and diamonds define this jewelry store near the Ku’damm. Have a look at the marvelous collection of Schoeffel pearl colliers, many of which are made with exquisite Tahitian pearls. www.wheretraveler.com 41

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ADVERTORIAL

www.schmelter-juwelen.de. Uhlandstr. 167-168. T: 030.8815671. U Uhlandstraße. B/C4

BEAUTY & WELLNESS Babor Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48. T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3

Frau Tonis Parfum

SHOPPING BIKINI BERLIN is not only a historical landmark, but the world’s first concept shopping mall with a unique selection of local brands, curated boutiques and gastro offers. Featuring views into the neighboring zoo and design curated hang-out spots, it’s wonderful to wander.

The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com. Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4

Parfumsalon An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop’s selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3

HOME DÉCOR bauhaus-shop

POP-UPs BIKINI BERLIN features an everchanging selection of local designers and new brands by offering temporary popup spaces that can be rented for short periods of time.

The Bauhaus school of the 1920s focused on functional and iconic design, redefining artistic creativity and manufacturing. Here you can discover a range of Bauhaus objects and products by the designers of the time. Located in the temporary bauhaus-archiv in Charlottenburg. www.bauhaus-shop.de. Knesebeckstr. 1–2. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3

Home on Earth Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2

Kiran Kelim & Teppich Kunst

KANTINI FOODMARKET This Foodmarket serves culinary delights from over 10 different countries and follows the trend of healthy food, sustainable ingredients and uncomplicated enjoyment.

BIKINI BERLIN Budapester Straße 38-50 10787 Berlin www.bikiniberlin.de bikiniberlin

Kiran has been importing rugs for more than 40 years, and the curated selection includes vintage and contemporary kilims, some self-designed pieces, as well the gorgeous Rug Star design rugs. www.kelim.de. Stilwerk, 3rd floor. Kantstr. 17. S Savignyplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Pylones These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun. The designers especially like to choose zoomorphic themes, which means that nutcrackers look like cats and watering cans like birds. www.pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Yves Delorme Add a Parisian touch to your home with a brandnew set of linens by Yves Delorme, specializing in fine textiles since 1845. The collection includes bed and bath lines as well as exquisite tableware and baby items for the everyday and special

occasion alike. www.yvesdelormeparis.com. Kurfürstendamm 51. T: 030.88724777. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

FOOD & GOURMET Läderach Exquisite Swiss chocolates from a family-run company with the highest standards for quality and craftsmanship. Shop for irresistible pralines, truffles, figurines, nut-filled chocolate bark sold by weight, and much more in Berlin’s two Läderach boutiques: in the west-end just across from the monumental KaDeWe, and on Mitte’s Friedrichstraße. Tauentzienstr. 4. T:030.20837679. G4 Friedrichstr. 81. T: 030.80492457. www.laederach.com. C3

Marheineke Markthalle One of the main market halls over 100 years ago continues to be a culinary highlight, with exquisitequality provisions, many produced organically and regionally. Rounding off the epicurean offerings are crafts, art exhibitions, and guided culinary tours that include a history of the city’s market halls and samples from vendors. Mon–Fri 8am–8pm, Sat 8am–6pm. www.meine-markthalle.de. Marheinekeplatz 15 T: 030.61286146. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Markthalle Neun One of only three historic market halls remaining in Berlin, the 1891 building has undergone a revival in recent years, now hosting a farmers’ market (Fri–Sat 10am–6pm). See website for other foodie events, such as the popular Street Food Thursdays. www.markthalle9.de. Eisenbahnstr. 42-43 T: 030.577094661. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Rausch Schokoladenhaus This is Berlin’s undisputed temple of chocolate. As if the longest chocolate counter in the world weren’t enough, the shop also features eyepopping displays of chocolate masterpieces, like a model of the Reichstag made from 300 kg of dark chocolate. www.fassbender-rausch.de. Charlottenstr. 60. T: 030.20458443. U Stadtmitte. E3

Ritter Sport Bunte Schokowelt The company store teaches about the process of chocolate production through an interactive exhibit, while in the shop you can mix and match chocolate and fillings for that perfect and personalized creation. www.ritter-sport.de. Französische Str. 24 T: 030.20095080. U Französische Straße. E3

ELECTRONICS Sennheiser This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. The cuttingedge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www.sennheiser.com. Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030.23630162. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

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SHOPPING MAPS

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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

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This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

All labels stand for history, quality, and individual personality. At boots & shoes you will find Dr. Martens, Converse, Hunter and Blundstone shoes in many designs and colors, matching your style. Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030 92031876 www.boots-and-shoes.de S+U Zoologischer Garten

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TOP PICK

GEDÄCHTNISKIRCHE

The church’s bombed-out tower was restored to its present state in 1957 and has been an anti-war memorial and a symbol of West Berlin ever since. The old church’s ruins host an exhibition documenting the cathedral’s former splendor and showing the Ku’damm before the air raids. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030 2185023 www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de S+U Zoologischer Garten www.wheretraveler.com 43

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All labels stand for history, quality, and individual personality. At boots & shoes you will find Dr. Martens, Converse, Hunter and Blundstone shoes in many designs and colors, matching your style.

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The C/O Berlin photography gallery (Hardenbergstraße 22-24, www.co-berlin.org)

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Codello

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NYX PROFESSIONAL

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...and the biggest Foodhall.

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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

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The famous Parisian department store brings French charm and style to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies. Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207 where you can also shop at Gucci, Opera‘s, Le Nails, Sathea, Cashmere House, Manon Chocolaterie, La Librairie and Galeries Lafayette Outlet.

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Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030 209480. galerieslafayette.de

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Pick up a copy of Where Berlin from your hotel concierge

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Wempe Montblanc BABOR

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This perfume boutique has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery. Try contemporary scents such as OUD Weiss or classics such as Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance. For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume. Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie). T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com

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DINING

This photo: the interior of Lode & Stijn; inset, left: mushrooms and herbs at Nobelhart & Schmutzig.

NOBELHART UND SCHMUTZIG: PHOTO BY CAROLIN PRANGE; LODE & STIJN: COURTESY OF LODE UND STIJ

Leave It To The Chef

T

here is something reassuring about surrendering to a limited menu with a fixed price, or prix fixe, as French foodies would say. We live in an age of dazzling variety with exhaustive tourist restaurants that try to be all things to all people. But the pleasures of a prix fixe meal go beyond the ease in giving over to a chef’s choices. These meals can lead you, dish by dish, through a more focused experience, a journey through food that can be whimsical or narrative or nostalgic and always progressive and considered. With a prix fixe menu, the kitchen can focus on perfecting each dish with the best ingredients, and the chef’s vision can shine. One experience for true foodies is Nobelhart & Schmutzig (www.

nobelhartundschmutzig. com). The deal is you pay (usually) €95 for 10 tiny courses that include only local ingredients. They are strict about this, meaning the dishes have no pepper or citrus, for example, since they don’t grow nearby, but might have suprisingly delicious hay or historically used local herbs. Each dish is presented by the chef responsible for it, with a short story of its flavors and ingredients. Reservations are highly recommended. Seasonal produce and creativity is the emphasis at Lode & Stijn (www.lode-stijn. de). For €75 you get a series of six courses whose ingredients come from smaller, regional producers – like roasted Mangalica pork from Brandenburg with

fresh herbs. A cheese course is an optional add-on, as is the wine-pairing menu. The ambiance here is set for good conversation and, as with Nobelhart & Schmutzig, the restaurant accommodates vegetarians and those with food allergies. The fixed price need not be high. A value yet delicious option is Der Hahn ist Tot! (www.der-hahn-ist-tot.de) where the four-course menu is only €24 for generous portions. The inspiration here is unpretentious, rural French cooking done perfectly. The restaurant has indoor and outdoor seating in hip Prenzlauer Berg. The signature dish is coq au vin – hence the restaurant’s name, German for “The Rooster is Dead!” JOE STANGE www.wheretraveler.com 47

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DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Berlin's concierge association, Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

FINE DINING For a complete list of Berlin’s Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience. €€€€. Wed–Sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal

The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun and Mon. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Skykitchen Part of the andel’s Hotel, Skykitchen brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com. Landsberger Allee 106. T: 030.4530532620. S Landsberger Allee. H2

Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€.

Tue–Sat L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4

ASIAN Arai

Chinese-Japanese. An exquisite dining experience in a Zen-styled oasis. Guests are treated to a 10-course Chuka Ryori tasting menu, a refined hybrid of Chinese and Japanese cuisines, plus an exclusive sake selection. One seating per night for 10 guests; reservations essential. €€€€. Tue–Sun D.www.araiberlin.com. Straßburger Str. 60. T: 0163 3848548. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2.

Jolly Chinese. Just across the water from Museum Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim sum dumplings as possible before moving on to the menu’s extensive variety of Sichuan-style and Cantonese dishes. Traditional Peking duck is the house specialty. €€. Daily L&D. www.restaurant-jolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4-4a. T: 030.20059500. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Kimchi Princess Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website

for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

Kushinoya Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6. T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4

Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

True to its Sephardic origins, Feinberg’s offers colorful dishes featuring plenty of fresh vegetables and fish with olive oil and spices gauged to perfection. Yet what’s best about Feinberg’s is its variety. Start with mezze (appetizer-like portions to share) of the usual suspects like tahini, falafel, kibbeh (fried bulgur croquettes filled with minced beef), or a beetroot carpaccio. After you’ve tempted your taste buds, indulge in a vibrant main dish such as shakshuka (eggs cooked in a stew of tomato and red peppers), hummus topped with minced lamb or mushrooms, or go all the way and splurge on a lava stone-grilled fish. There is a dish to tickle everyone’s fancy for sure – meat lovers, vegetarians, vegans, and even kosher diners. A buffet option is also available on weekends. Fuggerstraße 35. T: 030 91553462. www.feinbergs.de.

Sra Bua Thai/Japanese. Berlin’s home-grown star chef Tim Raue has done it again. Sra Bua, in the Hotel Adlon, is his latest restaurant to show off his love for the cuisines of Asia. Guests can expect only the most high-caliber Thai and Japanese cooking, and the Raue specialty: curries that are refined yet exploding with flavor. €€€. Tue-Sat D. www.srabuaadlon.de. Behrenstr. 72. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Other location in Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants.com.

FEINBERG’S: COURTESY OF FEINBERG’S

Middle Eastern Flavors

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DINING Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map

FRENCH Restaurant 1687 French-Mediterranean. Enjoy refined, stylish dining with a side of intriguing history – just a stone’s throw from Brandenburg Gate. The restaurant takes its name from the year in which the first Protestant church in Berlin was built on this very site, an important gathering place for French Huguenots fleeing religious persecution. The church was reduced to ruins in WWII, but in its place you can enjoy French-Mediterranean dishes and a top-notch wine selection. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.1687.berlin. Mittelstr. 30. T: 030.20630611. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

GERMAN/AUSTRIAN AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts

an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna’s famed

coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3

Altes Zollhaus German. This quaint, cottage-style building

was first constructed in the 1800s, when it served as a tollhouse for passing steamboats, then painstakingly restored after WWII. Today, it’s a canal-side restaurant serving elevated German cuisine created from the finest regional ingredients. €€–€€€. Tues–Sat D.www.altes-zollhaus-berlin.de. Carl-Herz-Ufer 30.T: 030.6923300. U Prinzenstraße. E4

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Hofbräuhaus German. An Oktoberfest atmosphere for the

whole family 365 days a year. This restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in typical Bavarian style, alongside live music, waiters in traditional costume, and the traditional Hofbräu beer, brewed in Munich since the 1700s. Expect dumplings and roasted ham hock at their popular Sunday brunch. €. www.hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de

Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30. T: 030 679665520. U + S Alexanderplatz. F2

The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

The Gallery German. Chef Lena König from TV show “The Taste” combines traditional German cuisine with the culinary diversity of Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg, specializing in German tapas made from regional ingredients. Located at Mercedes Platz, Berlin’s new “party mile” built around the existing Mercedes-Benz Arena, it’s the perfect bite before your show. Daily L&D. www.mercedes-platz.de. Mühlenstr. 13-19. T: 030 29772060. S+U Warschauer Straße. G4

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters. There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b. T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3

visit us daily from 7 pm

köpenicker straße 16 -17, 10997 berlin +49 [0] 30 319 88 18 60 www.spindlerklatt.com

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DINING Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing.

Modern Hellenic dishes Our meat is produced by speciesappropriate animal husbandry – Fresh Mediterranean fish – Select wines from various regions of Greece – Exclusive olive oil from the island of Lesbos – Groups welcome upon request

Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

Nante Eck

Restaurant Z

German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

Friesenstraße 12 10965 Berlin-Kreuzberg reservation +49 (0)30 692 27 16 open daily from 5 pm www.restaurant-z.de find us on google maps

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients. Specialties include extra-big currywurst and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2

Restauration 1840

DISCOVER BERLIN’S MOST DELICIOUS RESTAURANTS

German. An elegant, old-timey restaurant decorated in the style of Berlin’s Golden 1920s. Think curved brick ceilings and lots of warm wood everywhere, plus an outdoor terrace. The menu: classic German meets modern European. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.berlin-1840.de.de. Am Zwirngraben 10. T: 030.24727401. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Rotisserie Weingrün German/European. Overlooking the canal on

the southern edge of Museum Island, this elegant-casual restaurant is a favorite of many local gastronomes. The highlight is the huge, upright flame grill, which prepares steaks, ribs, pork belly, and rotisserie chicken to perfection. Try the octopus salad or flambéed salmon for a special treat. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat D. www.rotisserie-weingruen.de. Gertraudenstr. 10. T: 030.20621900. U Spittelmarkt. F3.

ITALIAN Barist

®

Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13. T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Bocca di Bacco Italian. This high-level restaurant offers

TRAVELERS KNOW WHERE

modern Italian cuisine prepared with top-quality ingredients, accompanied by excellent wines. Contemporary furnishings and elegant atmosphere. www.boccadibacco.de. €€–€€€. Daily L&D. Friedrichstr. 167-168. T: 030.20672828. U Französische Straße. E3

Café Aroma Italian. A longstanding neighborhood favorite, this Italian restaurant believes in pairing highquality food with a relaxed, homey atmosphere. The Sunday brunch buffet, served from 11am, is a generous mix of irresistible cold and warm Italian dishes. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat L&D, Sun B, L, D. www.cafe-aroma.de. Hochkirchstr. 8. T: 030.7825821. S+U Yorckstraße. D5

Der Goldene Hahn Italian. A cozy atmosphere, adept chefs, and occasional celebrity sightings make this a popular spot. The changing menu of creative daily specials elevates Der Goldene Hahn well above the run-ofthe-mill Italian restaurants that abound in Berlin. €€. Daily D. www.goldenerhahn.de. Pücklerstr. 20. T: 030.6188098. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere at this expansive pizza hall is on the raucous side and the service is notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2

MIDDLE EASTERN Neni Mediterranean. From its location in a glass penthouse atop the 25Hours Hotel, casual-hip Neni offers panoramic views and a fresh, creative fusion of Mediterannean, Middle Eastern, and North African culinary flavors. Many dishes on the diverse menu can be ordered in various sizes, with the goal of making sharing a part of the meal experience. €€. Daily L&D. www.25hours-hotels. com. Budapester Str. 40. T: 030.120221200. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

OTHER Blend Berlin Kitchen International. Representing the culinary diversity of Berlin and the world, this cool restaurant focuses on creativity and international flavors, combining tradition and modernity to reflect the spirit and soul of the city’s multi-ethnic community. €€. Daily B, L, D.www.restaurant-blend.com. Budapester Str. 25. T: 030.26962696. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Grand Rocka International. Inside, the restaurant takes over the historic arched space under S Hackescher Markt station, featuring a grand old wooden bar that lives up to the restaurant’s name, and out front, the terrace spills out across the busy Platz. The large international menu ranges from steaks to pizzas to burgers. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.grandrocka.de. Am Zwirngraben 6–7. T: 030.24638606. F2

Kantine Deluxe International. Take a break from sightseeing and fill up with a satisfying meal. Right in the heart of the city, Kantine Deluxe offers a fresh, affordable, and vegetarian-friendly menu of salads, burgers, pasta dishes, and Berlin specialties, with something to please everyone. €–€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.kantine-deluxe.de. Spandauer Str. 2. T: 030.34392626. S Hackescher Markt, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 Also: Ella-Trebe-Str. 3. T: 030.25099441. S Nordbahnhof. D2

Kantini International. Much more than just a food court, this dining destination in the west-end Bikini

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DINING Berlin concept mall is a gathering place hosting 13 international street food makers, from Mexican tacos to Korean bibimbap to Hawaiian poke bowls. Fresh, healthy cuisine and stylish design, with views onto the neighboring zoo. €–€€. Mon–Sat B, L, D. www.bikiniberlin.de/en/kantini. Budapester Str. 38–50. T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Rio GrandeAme International. This waterside restaurant serves an extensive selection of fine German and international dishes, from goulash to grilled fish and a variety of fresh salads, all in a classy setting. €€. Daily L&D. www.riogrande-berlin.de. May-Ayim-Ufer 9. T: 030. 61074981. Schlesisches Tor. G4

Vivolo Olé Spanish. Authentic Spanish cuisine at Hackescher Markt, including a wide selection of tapas, paellas, grilled meats and fresh fish dishes. Vegetarian and vegan options available. www.vivolo.de. Am Zwirngraben 11-12. T: 030.24631933. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Tres Tapas Spanish. A pleasant Spanish restaurant offering Spanish tapas and specialties, as well as good wines, in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. €. Daily D. www.trestapas.de. Lychener Str. 30. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Wilson’s – The Prime Rib Restaurant American. Juicy, high-quality meats cooked the American way and served with salads, potatoes and extravagant desserts. €€€. www.restaurant-wilsons. de. Crowne Plaza Berlin City Centre. Nürnberger Str. 65. T: 030.21007000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

RESTAURANT OPEN DAILY: Monday - Friday: 12 - 15 Monday - Sunday: 19 - 23 Make your Reservation: Tel. 030/ 278 909 95 55 Hirtenstr. 4 | 10178 Berlin www.the-grand-berlin.com

RESTAURANT | BAR | CLUB | EVENT

Z Modern Greek There’s nothing like high-quality Mediterranean cuisine, and this restaurant prides itself on giving a modern twist to Greece’s traditional dishes. The free-range meat, organic wines, and the many other high-quality products are imported directly from the southern European country. €€. Daily L&D. www.rstaurant-z.de. Friesenstr. 12. T: 030.6922716. S+U Schönhauser Allee. F1

VEGETARIAN/VEGAN Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55. T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3

Katjes Veggie Café Grün-Ohr Vegetarian. It’s heaven for the sweet-toothed. The

shop and café by Katjes not only stocks the brand’s full line of vegetarian-friendly, gelatin-free gummy candy, but also a rainbow of vegan cupcakes, coffee, and freshly squeezed juices that can be enjoyed on site or to go. €. Rosenthaler Str. 32. T: 030.97894702. www.cafegruenohr.de. F2

Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating top-notch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. U Senefelderplatz. F2

THE MELTING POT Cuisine A snapshot of Berlin’s ever-changing food scene, “BLEND” represents the culinary diversity of the German capital and the world. A place to savour and share. With their appealing composition of dishes, Steffen Sinzinger and his team engage all your senses. BLEND berlin kitchen and bar Budapester Straße 25, 10787 Berlin, +49 30 2696 2696, info@restaurant-blend.com www.restaurant-blend.com

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NIGHTLIFE

B

erlin may be world-renowned for its techno parties that run all weekend long, but the nightlife scene here has something for everyone, with its vibrant bar scene and clubs that stay open until the early hours. If you’re looking for a compromise between bigger clubs like Berghain and standard non-dancing bars, check out Sameheads (Richardstr. 10), a great and oh-so-Berlin example of this combination. There’s an eclectic roster of DJs playing most weekends in the basement below the regular bar, which is well worth a visit alone for its wacky,

futuristic decor. If you want to hear a wide range of DJs in one evening, Birgit und Bier (Schleusenufer 3) is a great option. Perfect for the summer months, this sprawling half-indoor halfoutdoor venue describes itself as a “playground for adults,” with three dance floors playing everything from techno to disco to hip-hop, and they occasionally offer themed music nights. Housed in a former train repair yard in Friedrichshain alongside a cluster of cultural venues and street art, Cassiopeia (Revaler Str. 99) is definitely more club than bar, and is a

good go-to for clubbing on a weeknight. The venue has more of a subculture vibe, with music ranging from hip hop to reggae, as well as hardcore, punk, and electronica, depending on what evening you show up. If you’re hoping for an air of exclusivity, try Monarch (Skalitzer Str. 134), a small club tucked away in the labyrinthine buildings around Kottbusser Tor. They offer electro and indie sounds every day of the week except Sunday and Monday. To find it, look out for a sticker-covered door with a sign above it for the “Turkische Gemeinde zu Berlin” and head up to the first floor. SARAH WILSON

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Berlin’s Multi-Genre Nightlife

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NIGHTLIFE

CLUBS Traffic Club A young and fun club in Alexanderplatz, with music ranging from pop and house to commercial. Good drinks. www.traffic-berlin.com. Alexanderstr. 7. G4

WINE & COCKTAILS Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Buck and Breck You’ll need to ring the doorbell to get into this tiny bar, hidden away next to a Mitte police station. Sleek and elegant interior, dim lighting, and great drinks. Daily from 7pm. www.buckandbreck.com. Brunnenstr. 177. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T: 030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

WHEN IN BERLIN...

Discover Europe’s

Pick up a copy of Where Berlin from your hotel concierge

capital of nightlife

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Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

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An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Sheraton Berlin, Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

PLUS O NS IN IC BERL OD AN FO E ID KORE E GU BEST INAL RL BE

LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avant-garde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

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Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

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ESSENTIALS Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof. Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664. Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333. Poison hotline, T: 030.19240. National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117. Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 to Hauptbahnhof and and S45 to Südkreuz run every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.

GETTING AROUND Public Transport

www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy

a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn. de. Toll number: 0180.6996633. VBB is a public transportation authority created to reconnect Berlin to the surrounding Brandenburg area after German reunification.It offers services to metropolitan Berlin as well as to the rural communities in the countryside of Brandenburg. www.vbb.de

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike. Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de.

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

MONEY SERVICES Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

Berlin At Your Fingertips Have smartphone, will travel. Download the Where Berlin team’s favorite apps for enhancing any visit to the capital city. All of them are free, and available for both Android and Apple devices. THE BERLIN WALL Made by the Federal Agency for Political Education, this award-winning app brings the Berlin Wall to life with interactive maps, archival photos and audio clips, walking tours, and more. FAHRINFO PLUS Get from A to B easily and efficiently with the BVG transit network’s app. Besides route guidance and live departure info, the app also lets you buy mobile tickets to avoid fiddling with clunky ticket machines. MY TAXI Hail a ride using the My Taxi app, which also offers the option of making mobile payments. MEETUP Whether you’re in the mood to do yoga, play board games, or just find some new friends, the Meetup.com community in Berlin is lively and warm. A great way to meet locals and fill your social calendar. DICT.CC A thorough, accurate, and easy-to-use German dictionary app that will have you communicating in no time. DURST When the hour is late and the craving hits for some beer, chocolate, smokes, snacks, or any other life necessities, open this app to find the closest Späti (late-night corner store) in your vicinity.

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USEFUL INFORMATION

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MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG- 015-2-18.1-1.

Stand: 27. Februar 2019 © Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) BVG-016.19

ESSENTIALS

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My

PERFECT DAY Sarnath Banerjee GRAPHIC ARTIST Sarnath Banerjee is the author of several graphic novels; most recently All Quiet In Vikaspuri. His project Gallery of Losers was on billboards in London during the Olympics there in 2012.

Clockwise from this image: Sarnath Banerjee; the buildings of Bergmannstr.; Britzer Garten; work by Sarnath Banerjee.

What are some ways living in Berlin influences your work? My work is steeped in the specificities of South Asia, so Berlin doesn’t usually directly affect my writing. Notwithstanding, I have lots of nice people to exchange ideas and collaborate with. Also, living here gives me an objective distance from my South Asian realities. There is an amazing interplay between text and image in your books. What’s the dynamic here in Berlin? When I first came to Berlin, I did a series called Enchanted Geography. It looked at Berlin through the lens of the uncanny, weaving in and out of its history and its urban spread. It was also a series where someone from the third-world is commenting on Europe, which is not so common. What’s been your experience of the literary scene in Berlin? Where do you like to go to talk to other writers or hear about new books? There are some cool writers here, who I occasionally meet at birthday parties, dinners, and picnics. They mostly come across as an

unhurried lot, which is refreshing since writers can be an anxious tribe. These are the nonGerman writers. German writer friends are busier, often travelling to the rest of Germany and Austria on book tours. Which part of the city do you call home, and what are your favorite things about it? I live in Rixdorf, a once sleepy neighborhood with a rural cadence, now slowly becoming overrun with cool, beautiful people. These days I go outside the ring, finding nice empty spaces, which are not designated as “nature trails” but are strangely tranquil and uninhabited. When you have friends or family come to visit, where in the city do you take them? If they come from India or Pakistan, I take

them to the posh parts of Berlin for the European-city feel: Akazienstraße, Bergmannstraße, Mitte, etc. If they come from North America, I take them to communist Berlin: Pankow, Frankfurter Allee, etc. If they come from the UK, I let them be. Imagine you have the entire day off to spend however you choose. What would your perfect Berlin day look like? I like Berlin very much, and it is probably the only European city I can live in, but my imagination isn’t entirely shaped by it. So my perfect Berlin day could just be spent in Brtizer Garten lying in the sun and reading.

PORTRAIT: COURTESY OF SARNATH BANERJEE; BRITZER GARTEN: COURTESY OF GRÜN BERLIN; ILLUSTRATION BY SARNATH BANERJEE; KREUZBERG: © ISTOCK.

You grew up in Calcutta – what brought you to Berlin? I was married to a Pakistani citizen. Indians and Pakistanis are not meant to marry each other according to their governments and eventually have to leave their countries. My ex-wife, artist Bani Abidi, got a fellowship here so we made the (temporary) move. A couple of years later she got pregnant, and now eight years have gone by. Our child is a Berliner, I speak pidgin German, pay a ton of taxes, but have lots of friends here, and keep working on South Asian themes.

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Where Magazine Berlin June 2019  

Where Magazine Berlin June 2019