BERLIN CITY GUIDE ®
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A Taste of History Sampling the flavors of Berlin's past
WHERETRAVELER.COM
JUNE 2018
PLUS INTERVIEW WITH CHEF TOMASZ TRABSKY FROM RESTAURANT 1687 A MONTH OF MUSIC
SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS WB JUNE COVER.indd 1
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ADIEU, J e a n
Paul
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Berlin
CONTENTS
06.18 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com
The Plan Let’s get started
The Guide The best of Berlin
7 Editor’s Note
XX
8 Hot Dates
16
Highlights of the month’s can’tmiss events, from scientific experiments to Banksy and Irving Penn.
Inspiring interior design pieces for your home sweet home. SIGHTSEEING
31
XXdon't need to travel far You for a glimpse of Venice.
12
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
35
The city transforms for the Berlin Biennale XX for Contemporary Art. DINING
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Recommendations from the Prenzlauer Berg 'hood.
8
ENTERTAINMENT
47
18 Ask The Concierge
Popcorn anyone? The openair movie season has begun.
Berlin's concierges share their secrets.
NIGHTLIFE
52
58 My Berlin Korbinian Ludwig Heß Tips from a Berlin-based traditional shoemaker.
Riverbanks made for sipping beers with friends in summer. ESSENTIALS
54
18
Useful information for your stay in Berlin.
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ON THE COVER: A DISH BY RESTAURANT 1687, PHOTO BY DIRK TONN.
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12 Birth Of A City
Let us not overlook the pre-1900 chapters of Berlin's fascinating history.
16 Rock On!
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Sampling the flavors of Berlin's past
JUNE 2018
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WELCOME TO BERLIN
The Early Days Compared to other European capitals, Berlin is rather young. It was born less than 800 years ago and has remained relatively small until the 1700s, but its early history is fascinating nevertheless. Wars, disease, and fires plagued the city in its first centuries, but Berlin's rulers have managed to turn tragedy into opportunity by welcoming foreign nationals, giving Berlin a cosmopolitan vibe from the very beginning. Finding traces of that era in today's Berlin is not an easy task, but we've compiled a list of the city's oldest buildings and attractions (p. 12-14), such as the Nikolaikirche or the Spandau Citadel. A visit to this Renaissance fortress is also a great excuse to get tickets to one of the concerts of the Spandau Citadel music festival, which brings to town some of the world's biggest stars of pop and rock every summer. This month, Massive Attack, Lenny Kravitz, and German pop icon Nena will be performing in the fortress, so hurry and get your tickets now! Enjoy!
SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN
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HOT
DATES June is a great month to be in Berlin. From street art to music festivals and photography exhibitions, this month is filled with fabulous events.
15
THE ART OF BANKSY UNTIL FRIDAY
Through his ironic and political artworks, such as Girl with Balloon and Monkey Queen, this British sprayer has become world-renowned while safeguarding his anonymity. This is your last chance to see more than 40 motifs created by this mysterious artist, sourced from private international collections, including that of Banksy’s former manager and curator Steve Lazarides. Admire Banksy's art in Bikini Berlin on Budapester StraĂ&#x;e. www.theartofbanksy.com
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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR
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OPEN AIR GALLERY SUNDAY
Twice per year, the Oberbaum Bridge is closed to traffic and turned into an open-air art mile. More than 100 artists display their paintings, photographs, and sculptures and are available to help visitors understand their art. A 120-meter-long canvas invites visitors to leave their own creative mark, should you feel inspired. www.openairgallery.berlin
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LONG NIGHT OF THE SCIENCES SATURDAY
This has been dubbed the “smartest night of the year”, as scientific institutions across Berlin and Potsdam open their doors to visitors. Expect a rich program of lectures, tours, and lots of hands-on experiments for grownups and kids, covering everything from natural sciences and robotics to politics and the humanities. One ticket buys you entry to all participating events and to the shuttle bus connecting the venues. www.langenachtderwissenschaften.de
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FÊTE DE LA MUSIQUE THURSDAY
This open-air music festival has become a worldwide phenomenon, taking place in over 300 international cities in celebration of the first day of summer. All over Berlin – on public squares, along streets, in parks – you can listen to various concerts, and all for free! Bands, orchestras, choirs, soloists, and DJs joining the festivities can think of no better reason to party. www.fetedelamusique.de
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IRVING PENN. CENTENNIAL ALL MONTH
Photography is a love affair with life. This certainly holds true for Irving Penn, one of the most influential photographers of the twentieth century. On the 100th anniversary of his birth, C/O Berlin is commemorating this artist with an extensive retrospective featuring around 190 of his works, from portraits of Pablo Picasso and Alfred Hitchcock to abstract female nudes and glamorous fashion photos for Vogue. See them before the exhibition ends on 1 Jul. www.co-berlin.org
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48 HOURS NEUKÖLLN FROM FRIDAY
The clock is ticking! In recent years, the multi-ethnic Neukölln neighborhood has become an enclave for all kinds of artists. During this 48-hour festival its streets turn into an experimental gallery with installations, exhibitions, handmade products, and an all-round party atmosphere celebrating the district’s eclectic soul. Kids too can partake in hands-on activities in the JungeKunst event. www.48-stunden-neukoelln.de
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BERLINER FAHRRADSTERNFAHRT SUNDAY
With approximately a quarter of a million people and covering almost 1000 kilometers, this is the biggest cycling demonstration in the world. Join participants as they mount their bikes and take to the streets voicing their rights for better cycling conditions in Berlin. The mass ride ends at Brandenburg Gate. www.adfc-berlin.de
Bill Murray & cellist Jan Vogler perform 1 Actor their collaboration at the Philharmonie. Be wowed by the Flying Illusion breakdance 2 show at Theater am Potsdamer Platz. Guns N' Roses is live at Olympiastadion to 3 prove rock'n'roll never goes out of style. Influential contemporary composer Max 4 Richter takes the stage at Philharmonie. The annual Festival Jazzdor is back at 5 Kesselhaus with France's coolest jazz acts. Pop queen Katy Perry stops at Mercedes6 Benz Arena tonight on her Witness tour. in Georges Bizet's famed opera Carmen 7 Take at Charlottenburg's Deutsche Oper house. singing trio HAIM will be rocking the 8 Sister house at Columbiahalle tonight. Torstrassen Festival is spotlighting cool 9 The indie music acts all weekend long. Staatsballett dances the beautiful 10 Berlin's Swan Lake on the Deutsche Oper stage. Aussie singer-songwriter Courtney 11 Witty Barnett performs at ASTRA Kulturhaus. turned country musician Kiefer 12 Actor Sutherland sings tonight at Columbiahalle. an afternoon Espresso Konzert at 13 Enjoy Konzerthaus – it's "caffeine for the ears." into the psychedelic noise-pop of Animal 14 Fall Collective at Heimathafen Neukölln. a performance of Semele, Handel's 15 Enjoy most popular opera, at Komische Oper. some great brews at Neukölln's 16 Discover best craft beer bar, The Muted Horn. the lively and evocative ballet Don 17 See Quixote on stage at Deutsche Oper. the Staatsballett dancing the moving 18 Admire contemporary piece Doda / Goecke / Duato. legendary Queen performs Mercedes19 The Benz Arena with new singer Adam Lambert. in the new light installation by 20 Immerse artist James Turrell at the Jewish Museum. the feast at the Street Food Thursday 21 Join event at Kreuzberg's Markthalle Neun. not ready to retire, the one and only 22 Still Rolling Stones rock Olympiastadion tonight. the Mitte nightlife at the popular 23 Sample Neue Odessa bar on Torstraße. Get your heart racing with the Fast & Furious 24 live show at Mercedes-Benz Arena. Hear cutting-edge sounds at Experimontag 25 night at Kreuzberg's Madame Claude bar. a musical lunch break at the 26 Take Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1pm. Talking Heads frontman David Byrne sings 27 his solo music at Tempodrom this evening. for the price of one: power couple Jay-Z 28 Two & Beyoncé take the stage at Olympiastadion. of the summer's biggest shows: trip hop 29 One duo Massive Attack at Zitadelle Spandau. go indoors? Freiluftkino Kreuzberg 30 Why plays great movies out under the stars.
See listings for addresses and more info.
THE ART OF BANKSY, PHOTOS COURTESY OF STATU ENTERTAINMENT; OPEN AIR GALLERY: PHOTO BY RONALDO GONZALEZ; LONG NIGHT OF THE SCIENCES: © HEIKE ZAPPE; FETE DE LA MUSIQUE: © ISTOCK; PABLO PICASSO AT LA CALIFORNIE, CANNES, 1957 © THE IRVING PENN FOUNDATION; MUSIKSCHIFF SOUND OF PARADISE © CHRISTIANE SCHRÖDER; FAHRRADSTERNFAHRT: © ISTOCK AND COURTESY OF FAHRRADSTERNFAHRT.
ofJUNE
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4 JULY 2018 – KRAFTWERK BERLIN WWW.FASHIONTECH.BERLIN
FASHION. TECH. DIGITALISATION. INNOVATION. BUSINESS.
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WHERE NOW | BIRTH OF BERLIN
A print depicting Berlin in the 1600s.
Birth of a City B
erlin’s recent history is so cumbersome it can be easy to overlook its pre-1900 chapters. The WWII bunkers, bombed-out buildings, relics of the Berlin Wall, tanks embedded in monuments, and memorials everywhere are so evocative of events that living generations can personally remember that the older buildings and palaces sometimes feel like nothing more than a staged backdrop for two World Wars and a Cold War. But Berlin was already a dynamic, thriving metropolis prior to the 20th century, and though it may not have been one of Europe’s most important cities, it has been a unique, cosmopolitan place from the day it was founded 781 years ago.
BIRTH OF A CITY One day in 1157, a German margrave named Albert the Bear travelled to the marshy lands surrounding the rivers Havel and Spree, former settlements of several Slavic tribes, and founded the Margraviate of Brandenburg. A few decades later, German merchants colonized the area, and when they found a small island trapped between the meanders of the Spree, they saw it as an ideal spot for the founding of a new settlement. They named their town Berlin, and 1237 was officially taken as the city’s year of founding. It was around this time
that the Nikolaiviertel was built, and the Nikolaikirche’s foundations are still the original ones from that time and can be visited seven days a week (www.stadtmuseum.de). By 1400, the urban conglomerate of Berlin and the neighboring village of Cölln had an estimated population of 8000, rather high for the time. In the following centuries Berlin suffered fires and outbreaks of bubonic plague, but the population kept growing nevertheless. From 1618 to 1648, however, Germany was hit by the devastating consequences of the Thirty Years’ War, which in Berlin alone caused the damage of a third of the houses and the death of half the population as a result of violence, famine, and plagues. When the “Great Elector” Friedrich Wilhelm of Brandenburg came to power in 1640, he was left with the hard job of repopulating the city and his army.
international city Berlin later became. In the 1670s, he invited 50 Jewish families from Austria. A few years later, in 1685, he proclaimed the Edict of Potsdam, encouraging French Huguenots (Calvinist Protestants who had been banned from France) to relocate to Brandenburg. Among the many benefits awaiting them, the Huguenot refugees were allowed to found their own church with services in French, bring their goods along without paying duties or tolls, live in any deserted house they found and rebuild it using materials donated by the local authorities, and they were exempt from all taxation for six years. More than 15,000 Huguenots immigrated to Brandenburg, and 6000 settled in Berlin. By 1687, they comprised 20% of the population and gave a great boost to the city’s economy as many of them were bankers, industrialists, and investors. The French Huguenots were not the only ones to benefit from attractive immigration packages, and around this time Berlin welcomed more refugees from Bohemia, Poland, and Austria, becoming a melting pot of European cultures.
The Thirty Years’ War decimated Berlin’s population but led the king to start promoting immigration.
A MELTING POT It’s true that every cloud has its silver lining: The Thirty Years’ War left Berlin in shambles, but it led Friedrich Wilhelm to start promoting immigration and religious tolerance, paving the way for the
THIS PAGE: PHOTO BY DIRK TONN, COURTESY OF RESTAURANT 1687; OPPOSITE PAGE: ALL PHOTOS: ©ISTOCK.
Solveig Steinhardt went looking for traces of the city’s early history.
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WHERE NOW | BIRTH OF BERLIN
Gendarmenmarkt with the French cathedral. Below: A map of Berlin in the late 1600s.
A statue of Friedrich Wilhelm II on Unter den Linden pays homage to the Hohenzollern dynasty.
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A view of Gendarmenmarkt from the top of the French Cathedral’s dome.
destroyed Huguenot temple of CharentonSaint Maurice in France, the church initially had no tower, but the city decided to give it a dome for the sake of symmetry with the Deutscher Dom on the other side of the square (see photo, left). Inside the church is the Huguenot Museum, currently closed for renovations until 2019. Another important Huguenot church was the Dorotheenkirche on Neustädtische Kirchplatz, destroyed by air raids in WWII. All that’s left today is a green patch and plaque, surrounded by new concrete buildings. The French-inspired restaurant on the square (see interview below) pays tribute to the square’s historic significance and was named 1687 to commemorate the Huguenots.
MORE TO EXPLORE
During Friedrich Wilhelm’s rule, Berlin’s population reached 20,000, making the city a significant point on the Central European map for the first time.
THE FRENCH CONNECTION Although the French Huguenot community eventually ended up blending in with the German population, their influence is still evident in the language and in many of Berlin’s street names. An Allee or a Chaussee
is a larger road, Etage means floor, Friseur is a hairdresser, Portemonnaie means wallet, and Journalist (pronounced the French way) is, of course, a journalist. The long list of gallicisms absobed into the German language is a strong reminder of the region’s immigration history. Not much else remains of the Huguenots, apart from one of the city’s most beautiful churches, the Französischer Dom on Gendarmenmarkt. Modeled after the
The best way to learn about Berlin’s early history is to visit the Deutsches Historisches Museum (p. 36), providing an exhaustive explanation of the politics and culture of the time. The city museum, the Märkisches Museum (p. 37) has a more local approach, covering the development of Berlin and its districts through models, artifacts, and objects from the different eras. To get a glimpse of life in the 1500s, head to the Spandau Citadel, a Renaissance fortress complete with moat and drawbridge, also hosting a great summer music festival (p. 16), while the Museumsdorf Düppel (p. 33) is a reconstructed rural village built around the remains of a well from the 1100s, the era of Albert the Bear.
Chef, cook, traveler, seeker of culinary adventures, and dad. Tomasz Trabsky (37) was born in Poland, where his grandmother Valentina taught him the secrets of good cuisine. His travels brought him to Berlin where he is now the chef of 1687 (Mittelstr. 30, www.1687.berlin), a restaurant inspired by the city’s French Huguenot community. Tell us about your cooking style. I want my creations to be authentic and based on the best quality ingredients. Our society has a high culinary awareness, and cooking to me is a craft more than an art. Extensive research and authenticity define my style. How have you adjusted your cooking to relate it to historic tradition?
From left to right: Tomasz Trabsky; The elegant and modern interior of 1687; One of Trabsky’s specialties*.
French cuisine has always been my favorite cuisine, and that’s why the historical connection of the place and with the Huguenot church is a perfect combination of elements. It was the French Hugenots who brought their culture and cuisine to Berlin, and the restaurant’s location has a very positive vibe. A happy chef equals positive energy on the plate, which guests definitely sense and appreciate.
Something you would like to share with our readers? One thing I would like to convey to the younger generation is that you should never give up: if they kick you out the door, push through the window. * Hare Royale and baby wellingtons with molers mushroom, confit rabbit leg, chards, and lacquer sauce with chocolate.
PHOTOS OF 1687 BY DIRK TONN; GENDARMENMARKT: © ISTOCK.
EAT LIKE IT’S 1687
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Rock On! I
t’s been a while since I’ve sweated it out in a mosh pit or stage-dived into the trusted hands of hardcore fans, but given that all the big names in music seem to be converging onto Berlin this June, it may be time to relive the experience. For the most exciting events in town, head to the city’s outskirts, home to Berlin’s most popular open-air music festivals.
ROCK IN THE FORTRESS Berlin has many venues to rock out to live music in the summer, but it’s hard to beat an open-air Renaissance fortress. At the Spandau Citadel (Am Juliusturm 64, www.zitadelle-berlin.de) in the western outskirts of the city, music fans can enjoy an eclectic mix of genres at the Citadel Music festival, taking place June through August. Headlining this year’s festival is German pop icon Nena, who rose to international fame in 1983 with the anti-war protest song 99 Luftballons. Playing on 22 June, she will be celebrating her 40th stage anniversary
with her Nichts Versäumt tour. On 12 June, American rock legend Lenny Kravitz will also be shaking down the old fortress walls on his Raise Vibration Tour with brand-new singles and all-time classics such as Are You Gonna Go My Way and American Woman. Fans can revel once again in his unique retro style incorporating everything from blues to psychedelic and hard rock. And taking to the stage on 29 June is Bristol band Massive Attack, celebrating their 30th anniversary after inventing the trip hop music genre in the late ‘80s. Their concerts, however, are far from being nostalgic, with a constant stream of new sounds, fresh collaborations, and powerful political statements.
FOREST AMPHITHEATER When the Waldbühne (Glockenturmstr. 1, www.waldbuehne-berlin.de) opened in conjunction with the 1936 Olympics, the open-air setting was mainly meant for sporting events. Today the Greekstyle amphitheater surrounded by forest
is renowned for its rock and classical performances and is often frequented by Berliners armed with picnic baskets to fully enjoy a summer evening outdoors. By far the biggest name on this season’s roster is English heavy metal band Iron Maiden performing on 13 June. Since the turn of the millennium, they have always alternated new albums with historical hits on their tours. This year it’s the Legacy Of The Beast European Tour, with a set list covering a large selection of ‘80s material and a handful of surprises from later albums. Also returning to the tour bus after a long break is German band Die Toten Hosen. Literally translated to “The Dead Trousers,” their name refers to a figure of speech for a dead-boring event. However, with their roots in the ‘70s/’80s punk movement and their new studio album Laune der Natour (Mood of Nature), described as “full-throttle punk firecrackers and gaudy powerpop,” their performance on 7 and 8 June is bound to be far from lifeless.
GUNS N’ ROSES: COURTESY OF GUNS N’ ROSES PROMOTION; ZITADELLE SPANDAU: PHOTO BY FRANK BAUCHSPIESS. WALDBÜHNE: COURTESY OF WALDBÜHNE PRESS; LENNY KRAVITZ AND MASSIVE DIE TOTEN HOSEN: PHOTO BY PAUL RIPKE. ATTACK: PR;
Tickets are selling out quickly for the summer’s hottest shows. Annabelle Mallia suggests you secure yours now.
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KRAVITZ AND MASSIVE DIE TOTEN HOSEN: PHOTO BY PAUL RIPKE. ATTACK: PR;
WHERE NOW | ROCK ON
STADIUM SOUNDS Colosseum-like Olympiastadion (Olympischer Platz 3, www. olympiastadion.berlin) is one of last remaining Nazi-era buildings and the home ground of Berlin’s beloved Hertha BSC football team since 1963. On 22 June, the stadium braces itself for English rock legends Rolling Stones, who have been rocking for over 50 years, showing no traces of old-age fatigue. On the Stones – No Filter tour, fans can once again look forward to classics like Satisfaction and Brown Sugar and a return to their blues roots with their new album Blue & Lonesome. Also making a pit stop in Berlin on 3 June is Guns N’ Roses on their Not in This Lifetime tour. Lucky for us, frontman Axl Rose and guitarist Slash have made amends, entertaining fans once again with hits like Sweet Child O’ Mine, November Rain, and acoustically influenced (and possibly my favorite) Patience.
Clockwise from above, left: Guns N’ Roses greet the crowds; German punk-rock band Die Toten Hosen; the Waldbühne amphitheater; a concert at Zitadelle Spandau; Lenny Kravitz.
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WHERE NOW | CONCIERGE
Ask the
CONCIERGE
Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierges. Nicolai Laaser, concierge at Sofitel Berlin Gendarmenmarkt, is here to help. www.lcdg.org
Insider Berlin tips? I love the flair of a horse race, either at the Trabrennbahn Mariendorf or Rennbahn Hoppegarten. The thrill of the beautiful horses running is indescribable for me. Describe Berlin in three words. Open, multicultural, and diverse. Where is the best place to relax? On the water. You can take a cruise through the historic center or rent a paddleboat in Köpenick and let go of all your stress. Tips for a German specialty? Why German? Let's say a Berlin specialty! And that would have to be Currywurst from Curry36 at Mehringdamm or from Krasselt’s Imbiss in Steglitz.
What sets Berlin apart from other major cities? The fact that you can do so many things for free, like visit the Reichstag, the Topography of Terror exhibition, or the Palace of Tears (Tränenpalast). Do you know a romantic place in Berlin? Our hotel rooms on the 5th floor! They have small balconies from which you can watch the hustle and bustle on the Gendarmenmarkt square below and listen to the sounds of street musicians. How do you recommend one should discover Berlin? I’m a big fan of the hop-on hop-off bus tours. They give you a quick overview of the city, and then you can decide what else you want to do. I also recommend the bike tours offered by our partner, Alexrentabike. The perfect Berlin souvenir is... Your memories and photos.
YOUR CONCIERGE IS HAPPY TO HELP!
Talk to your concierge if you need assistance with restaurant reservations, concert tickets, arranging spa services, booking transportation, or simply to ask for recommendations.
From top to bottom: Visiting the city on a hop-on hop-off bus; Currywurst; Gendarmenmarkt.
CITY SIGHTSEEING: COURTESY OF CITY SIGHTSEEING; CURRYWURST AND GENDARMENMARKT: © ISTOCK.
When you have visitors, where do you take them? Definitely to the TV tower. Berlin and the TV tower simply go hand-in-hand, from there you can see the whole city.
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No.1 IN SHOPPING, L E I S U R E & E N T E R TA I N M E N T IN BERLIN MO - SA 1 0a m - 9pm ALEX A AT ALEX AN DE RPL ATZ OPEN ON SU N DAYS: FOOD COU RT AN D LEISU RE AREA
180 SHOPS FASHION, ACCESSORIES, ELECTRONICS, BOOKS & MUCH MORE SHOPPING
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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE Left and inset, below: A light installation at the Bocci 79 showroom; This photo: design chairs at Stilwerk.
Home Sweet Home Appreciate beautiful design? You’re in the right place. It should come as little surprise that this city, which once attracted and inspired many of the greatest minds of the Bauhaus movement, has much to offer in the area of functional yet stylish interior design. From kitchen worktops to dining chairs to light fixtures so beautiful they are truly works of art, let Berlin’s high-caliber design hotspots send you home with new inspiration for beautifying the way you live. A monumental courthouse in Charlottenburg is the unlikely yet perfect setting for some of the most striking lighting design to be found anywhere in the world. Bocci (www.bocci.ca) is not exactly local – the company is headquartered in Vancouver – but creative director Omer Arbel chose Berlin as the site for the brand’s second base, aiming to find inspiration in the rich cultural offerings of the German capital. The impressive Bocci 79 showroom (Kantstr. 79,
open Tue–Sat 11am–7 pm) takes over more than 20 rooms and 2200 square meters of the grandiose 1890s building. Wander from floor to floor to discover the stunning, gravity-defying light installations, including Bocci’s famed pendant lights, suspended in airy clusters or tumbling cascades through the six-story staircase atrium. Further down Kantstraße, right in the heart of Charlottenburg, is the can’t-miss design emporium Stilwerk (www.stilwerk. com). Spread across five floors and 20,000 square meters, the department store is overflowing with stores and brands ranging from classics like C. Bechstein, the renowned piano maker founded in Berlin in 1853, to colorful rug importer Kiran Kelim (www.kelim.de) or modern-minded kitchen design label bulthaup (www.bulthaup.com). Highly regarded around the world for its impeccable engineering and ultra-functional, ergonomic design, bulthaup prides itself on creating sleek, purist kitchens that are both
timelessly chic and a joy to cook in. Besides the store in Stilwerk, you’ll find dedicated bulthaup dealerships in Friedrichshain at Karl-Marx-Allee 77–79 and in Wilmersdorf at Konstanzer Str. 15. Thonet (www.en.thonet. de), maker of some of the world’s most famous chairs, is another example of how German design excels at balancing form and function. It was in the 1850s when Rhineland cabinet maker Michael Thonet perfected his technique for bending steamed wood into graceful curves. His original model No. 14, also known as the “Coffee House Chair,” is still produced today and looks as stylish as ever. Just as iconic are Thonet’s floating cantilever chairs from the 1920s, designed from curves of tubular steel by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe and Marcel Breuer. Take a closer look at the Thonet design legacy in two Stilwerk stores, minimum and form + funktion.
BOCCI 79: PHOTO BY KAHIM KASSAN; STILWERK © VISITBERLIN, PHOTO BY PHILIP KOSCHEL; BOCCI 79: PHOTO BY HILDA HOY.
Pick up inspiration and more for your space at Hilda Hoy’s favorite local design sources.
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SHOPPING
THE
where GUIDELINES
This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.
INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 56-57. OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.
DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
BIKINI BERLIN
Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4
Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3
KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Westens) The biggest and oldest department store in continental Europe sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4
Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de.Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden. de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
BIKINI BERLIN combines shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin's west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace. But the main attraction is the curated The quiet Suarezstraße selection of shops, which include Basler in Charlottenburg individual pop-up boxes frequently is the place to go for Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now showcasing new designers, popular antiques. sold around the globe, Basler stands brands, and many design stores. for femininity and versatility, aiming to www.bikiniberlin.de. make women of all ages and sizes look and Budapester Str. 38-50. feel good. From everyday style to business casual to T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4 something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr. Designer Outlet Berlin 28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220. Your favorite designer brands with discounts T: 030.88472949. up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city U Kurfürstendamm. C4 center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a
© ISTOCK.
FASHION
children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map
5 Eco-Friendly Fashion Stores
Beatrice von Tresckow Sumptuous, elegant, somewhat extravagant. Beatrice Von Tresckow women's clothes are lively and colorful, an eye-catching addition to any wardrobe. www.beatricevontresckow.com, Leibnizstr. 60. T: 030 308318. U Adenauer Platz. C4
24COLOURS Their fair-trade women’s clothing is mostly casual, but always unique: every piece is only produced 300 times. Oderberger Str. 20. www.24colours.de
NATURKAUFHAUS This organic department store in Steglitz has four floors of organic clothes, shoes, textiles, and furnishings, as well as a large selection of cosmetics. Schloßstr. 101. www.naturkaufhaus-gmbh.de
ADRETT Offering German-made fashion from Berlin and Munich designers, this small boutique only sells handmade, sustainable garments. Weinbergsweg 23. www.adrett-berlin.de
FLAGSHIPSTORE Casual and comfortable clothing from ecofriendly sources. Oderberger Str. 53. www.flagshipstore-berlin.de
SUPERMARCHÉ From the striped underwear to the egg cups and lamps, everything here comes from fair-trade businesses or is made with organic materials. Wiener Str. 16. www.supermarche-berlin.de
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Dive into the summer with these colorful items.
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1. Talbot Runhof, Schlüterstraße 50. 2. Liu Jo, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 3. Oui, Rathausstraße 11. 4. Freya, www.freyalingerie.com. 5. GEOX, Kurfürstendamm 209. 6. Sportalm, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 7. Marc Cain, Kurfürstendamm 69. 8. Sportalm, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 9. Marc Cain, Kurfürstendamm 69.
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SHOPPING Be Edgy
Mientus
With rule-breaking elements and a timeless soul, this Berlin-born fashion label makes perfectly cut leather jackets and a variety of accessories meant for rebellious and cheeky boys and girls. www.be.edgy.de. Bleibtreustr. 27. T: 0176.61137540. U Uhlandstraße. B4
One of the largest providers of exclusive fashion in Germany. Four levels housing collections from top international designers like Dolce & Gabbana, Moncler, and Gucci. www.mientus.com. Wilmersdorfer Str. 73. T: 030.3239077. U Wilmersdorfer Straße, S Charlottenburg. B4
Boggi Milano
Patrick Hellmann
Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4
Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4
By Anne By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31. T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2
Cotélac The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and
American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
Trüffelschwein The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed – he simply looks good, with a collection of small niche brands from London, Paris, and New York. www. trueffelschweinberlin.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030.70221225. U Weinmeisterstr. F2
UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3
Wellensteyn Founded in Germany 60 years ago as a brand for workers, Wellensteyn is now a high-class label for quality technical jackets that are also stylish, as well as other items for the outdoor life. www.wellensteyn.com. Europa Center.
Ellen Eisemann Feminine and chic dresses , skirts, tops made for the Audrey Hepburns of today. Simple, geometric cuts and eye-catching colors and prints combine a timeless style with a glamorous vintage look. www.elleneisemann.com. Monumentenstraße 33-34. 030 78898595. S Yorckstraße. D5
designer depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designer-depot.net. Rochstr. 2. T: 030.28046700. U Weinmeisterstr. F2
Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations. T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3
Marina Rinaldi Born inside the Max Mara fashion group in 1980, this label stocks a collection of garments and accessories for the curvier woman and represents a turning point in the history of women’s apparel. www.marinarinaldi.com. Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations). T: 030.88554046. U Adenauerplatz. B4
Max Mara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com. Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations). T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4
Steps Above The Rest Artisanal craftsmanship has a place in every wardrobe. For the finest footwear money can buy, there’s a new destination in Berlin: the west-end workshop of Korbinian Ludwig Heß, where the shoemaker creates beautiful bespoke shoes that are not only tailored exactly to the wearer’s foot size, height, and posture, but also to their personal style. Originally from Munich, Heß trained in Vienna with a renowned shoemaking studio that once provided the footwear for Austria’s royal family. His impeccable creations embody sleek elegance and exacting attention to detail, made from the finest cordovan, calf, ostrich, or goat leather, and even shagreen. In a nod to the long tradition behind his craft, every piece of equipment used is completely manual. Phone or email klh@ klh-massschuhe.com to make an appointment for your first fitting. Hohenzollerndamm 201. T: 030 40749569. www.klh-massschuhe.com
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SIZING GUIDE SHOES US
UK
CLOTHES Euro
US
UK
WOMEN 3 4 5 6 7 8
5 6 7 8 9 10
WOMEN 36 37 38 39 41 42
XS S M L
6 8 10 12 14 16
MEN 7 8 9 10 11 12
8 9 10 11 12 13
Talbot Runhof, Schlüterstraße 50.
Tauentzienstr. 9-, 12. T: 030.23927186. U Kurfürstendamm. C4. Grunerstr. 20. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 T: 030.27583926. Friedrichstr. 58. T: 40744747. U Stadtmitte. E3
Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Zalando Outlet The popular online shopping fashion market has a large outlet store in Berlin, featuring 1000 square meters of fashion and accessories from the world's top brands, sold at even lower prices. www.zalando.de. Köpenicker Str. 20. T: 0800.3300996. U Schlesiches Tor. G4
SHOES & ACCESSORIES AIGNER The Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics. Choose between handbags, belts, and luxury travel luggage, as well as gift items such as corkscrews, keyrings and backgammon boxes. www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683638. U Uhlandstraße. B4
8 9 10 11 12 13
2 4 6 8 10 12
34 36 38 40 42 44
MEN (CHEST) 41 42 43 45 46 47
S M L
34 36 38 40 42 44
CHILDREN 7 8 9 10 11 12
Euro
34 36 38 40 42 44
44 46 48 50 52 54
CHILDREN 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5
bagatt Milano Bagatt epitomizes the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known. With its core philosophy of fine Italian craftsmanship, bagatt Milano applies the highest quality standards to its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. Browse the shelves for contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear or elegant heels. Email: bagattberlino@gmail.com. Bikini Berlin: Budapester Str. 38–50. T:030 25759777. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 was based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories round off the offering. www.drmartens.com. Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Falke Flagship Store This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12. T: 030.20647995. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is
4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15
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110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170
known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. F2
New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www.neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. Hackescher Markt. F2
Unützer Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www.unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10. T: 030.88916710. U Uhlandstraße. C4
JEWELRY & WATCHES Aris Diamond Since 1906, ARIS has been specializing in diamond jewelry, delivering everything from pendants, necklaces, and earrings, to fabulous engagement rings. Got a special occasion coming up?
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SHOPPING Check up their new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. www.arisdiamond.com. www.mallofberlin.de.Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3
entire product range, sign up for a consultation, or get a quick massage or facial. www.nivea.de/Haus. Unter den Linden 28. T: 030.20456160. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Boutique Cartier
Parfumsalon
Founded in Paris in 1847, Cartier is one of the world’s most esteemed designers of luxury jewelry and watches, with a long history of sales to royalty and celebrities. www.cartier.de. Kurfürstendamm 188–189. T: 030.8867060. U Uhlandstraße, U Adenauerplatz. B4
An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3
Bucherer
HOME DÉCOR
With a dedicated Rolex and Patek Philippe corner, and a wide range of other prestigious watch brands, as well as exclusive jewelry creations, the Bucherer store provides customers with first-class service and a unique shopping experience. www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr.176-179. T: 030.2041049. U Französische Straße E3; Kurfürstendamm 45. T: 030.8804030. U Uhlandstraße. B4
Juwelier Leicht im Hotel Adlon This jewelry shop has its own manufactory and also carries luxurious brands like Omega, Glashütte Original, and more. Check out Leicht’s marvelous creations, each uniquely manufactured with gold and precious stones. www.leicht-jewellery.com. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2290212. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2
Depot
years, and the curated selection includes vintage and contemporary kilims, some self-designed pieces, as well the gorgeous Rug Star design rugs. www.kelim. de. Stilwerk, 3rd floor. Kantstr. 17. S Savignyplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4
Pylones These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun. The designers especially like to choose zoomorphic themes, which means that nutcrackers look like cats and watering cans like birds. www.pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4
What began over 60 years ago as The Ku'damm was West Stilwerk a Christmas decorations shop has Berlin's most important Five levels and 52 stores of the most shopping strip during developed into a trend-setting refined interior design producers. the Cold War. provider of gifts, furnishings, and Classic to avant-garde items from decorative items. Depot has four renowned international manufacturers, collections per year and is known for such as Bang & Olufsen, Stokke, and Alessi. its versatility. www.depot-online.com. www.stilwerk.de. Kantstr. 17. S Savignyplatz, Kurfürstendamm 231 (check website for other U Uhlandstraße. B4 locations). T: 030.88701924. U Uhlandstraße. C4
Home on Earth Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2
Kiran Kelim & Teppich Kunst Kiran has been importing rugs for more than 40
ELECTRONICS Sennheiser
This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. The cuttingedge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www.sennheiser.com. Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030.23630162. U Wittenbergplatz. C4
Schmelter Juwelen Pearls and diamonds define this jewelry store near the Ku’damm. Have a look at the marvelous collection of Schoeffel pearl colliers, many of which are made with exquisite Tahitian pearls. www.schmelter-juwelen.de. Uhlandstr. 167-168. T: 030.8815671. U Uhlandstraße. B/C4
BEAUTY & WELLNESS Babor Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48. T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3
Flaconi A large perfumerie carrying all the best perfume brands as well a myriads of products for the skin and hair as well as makeup. www.flaconi.de. Leipziger Str. 36. T: 030.20674990. U Mohrenstraße. E3
COURTESY OF LE CREUSET
Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com. Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4
Nivea Haus Nivea is Latin for snow white. At the flagship store of this German beauty powerhouse you can browse the
Outdoor Vibes Iconic French cookware brand Le Creuset is famous for its cast iron cocottes that come in every imaginable color, but also for its seasonal themes and special editions: Last year, they paid tribute to the color purple by creating a lavender line shortly after the color was crowned “Pantone color of the year.” Less than a month later, they launched a St. Patrick’s Day edition with shamrock-green kitchenware. These days, they are celebrating outdoor living with various shades of green that will look fabulous on your summer table. For these and many more colors, visit their shop at Friedrichstr. 191. www.lecreuset.de
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SHOPPING MAPS
ADVERTORIALS
AUDIO EXPERIENCE
Visit us Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm
Sennheiser Store Berlin
Tauentzienstr. 17 - 10789 Berlin S-Bahn/U-Bahn Zoologischer Garten U-Bahn Wittenbergplatz
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PARFUMSALON
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Sennheiser’s first official brand store is located in the heart of Berlin’s City-West. Experience leadership in audio on 120sq.m., including cutting-edge headphones and microphones. Visit us and take a piece of Sennheiser home. Open Mon-Sat 10am–8pm. Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030 23630162 www.sennheiser.com
This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de
Michael Kors is a world-renowned designer of luxury accessories and ready-to-wear, offering a lifestyle for the consummate jet setter that is as sophisticated as it is indulgent and as glamorous as it is modern. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030 81825760 www.michaelkors.com
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MO HR EN ST R. MEISSEN im Hilton Stadtmitte/U2 Gudrun Sjödén
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The famous Parisian department store brings French charm and style to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies. Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207 where you can also shop at Gucci, Opera‘s, Le Nails, Sathea, Cashmere House, Manon Chocolaterie, La Librairie and Galeries Lafayette Outlet.
Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030 209480. galerieslafayette.de SHOP STOP
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Evelin Brandt Crines Design Mephisto
Beauty meets science at this skincare institute. Owner and cosmetics expert Christiane Lingner offers high-level treatments such as deluxe facials, skin analyses, purifying sessions, manicures, pedicures, as well as intensive and strengthening treatments for the gentlemen. Head to the flagship store for vitamin-rich serums and foundations with a lifting effect.
Französische Str. 48. T: 030 20622222 www.babor-berlin.de
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FRAU TONIS PARFUM This perfume manufactory has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery. Try classics such as Linde Berlin, or Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance. For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume. Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie). T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com www.wheretraveler.com 27
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SHOPPING MAPS
MALL OF BERLIN
COS
HALLHUBER
MARC CAIN
Reno
SWAROVSKI
Deichmann
Hollister
Marc O’Polo
Replay
Taschenparadies THOMAS SABO
DESIGUAL
HUGO BOSS
MASSIMO DUTTI
Rich & Royal
Dogo Shoes
Hunkemöller
Mavi
Runners Point
Tom Tailor
Einblick Optik
INTIMISSIMI
MAX & CO.
S & D sons and
TOMMY HILFIGER
Engelsrufer & Co.
Jack & Jones
Mephisto
daughters
TOMMY JEANS
Esprit
JD Sports
Eterna Fashion & Accessories
FASHION CLUB
C&A
MANKIND
Calvin Klein Jeans
Airfield
CALZEDONIA
ARIS Art of
Casano
Diamond
Change
Kingz
Foot Locker
LIEBESKIND
French Connection Frisco Jeans
Lief!
UN1DEUX2TROIS3
Schuh Bode
Undiz
SHOE CITY
Oakley
Levi’s
Fossil
TWIN-SET
Schiesser
MAKEUP
LACOSTE
Triumph
Sarar
Nike NYX PROFESSIONAL
Konplott
Fast Forward
Trigema
Salamander
NAVYBOOT
KARL LAGERFELD
FALKE
7 FOR ALL
Muji
Vans
Sidestep
Olymp
VERO MODA
Sizeer
Palmers
WE-Fashion
PANDORA
SNIPES
Wigglesteps
ARMANI EXCHANGE
CHRIST
G-Star Raw
Liu Jo
Passionata
Sportalm Kitzbühel
WORMLAND
Backlash
CINQUE
GANT
LLOYD
Peak Performance
SPORTSCHECK
ZARA
Bershka
Claire’s
GINA TRICOT
L’Occitane
Peek &
Street Shoes
ZERO
BIJOU BRIGITTE
Clarks Ecco
GUESS
Look 54
Cloppenburg
STRELLSON
BREE
Codello
H&M
MANGO
Pepe Jeans
Sunglass Hut
...and the biggest Foodhall.
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Blue Man Group Theater
Double Englishness at CineStar Original and IMAX with Laser! Enjoy Berlin’s widest range of undubbed English versions all-day at CineStar Original and select shows in English at IMAX with Laser.
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SHOPPING
LUXURY BRANDS CHOPARD
AIGNER www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683668. U Uhlandstraße. B4
BALLY
www.chopard.com Kurfürstendamm 54. T: 030 70096980. U Uhlandstraße. B4
ESCADA
www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52. T: 030.88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4
BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4
BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3
BUCHERER www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45. T: 030.2041049. U Kochstraße. E4
www.escada.com. Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4
MAURICE LACROIX www.mauricelacroix.de. Friedrichstr. 166. T: 030.33024852. U Französische Straße. E3
MCM www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. S Hackescher Markt. F2
ROLEX
BULGARI
www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Adenauerplatz. B4
www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030.8857920. U Uhlandstraße. B4
WEMPE
EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170. T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3
www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.8826878. U Adenauerplatz. B4
shopping arkaden
A PLACE FOR SHOPPING © ISTOCK.
ARKADEN SHOPS open from Mon—Sat, 10am to 9pm. POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE
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SHOPPING MAPS
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HACKESCHER MARKT AND MITTE Rosenthaler Platz
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Lala Berlin Hoho Berlin MULA CKSTR VOLK ASSE Cotélac ER L STE ANG Sto INS re TRA SSE Onitsuka REBECCA Skunkfunk Freitag Weinmeisterstr. 11 Ma vi
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An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030 27890578 de.neweracap.eu
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Looking for a new cap? The world's leading headwear brand is now the official headwear of the NBA. Check out the latest New Era NBA collection at the New Era store in Berlin.
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ROS Wolfen Germany Boutique ASSE STSTR AUGU Greta & Luis Ka tje sC afé GIPSS Gr TRAS SE ün Be Lieb -Oh SOP n S es r HIE k h i n e NST RAS rman d SE
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Promobo MÜHLE Store Berlin Home on earth Trippen
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Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. www.homeonearth.com
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Barcelona-founded Home on Earth offers products combining sustainability and Nordic design, each produced without wasting any resources. Using almost exclusively natural materials such as bamboo, wool, coconut, mango and hemp. The store opened its first branch in Germany in December 2015.
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KIRAN KELIM & TEPPICH KUNST For more than 40 years, Kiran has stood for high-quality imported kilims and rugs. Kiran’s passion for colors and shapes is evident in his curated selection, which includes both vintage and contemporary kilims, Kiran’s own collection, as well as Rug Star design rugs.
Stilwerk, 3rd Floor. Kantstr. 17. www.kelim.de S Zoologischer Garten
The C/O Berlin photography gallery (Hardenbergstraße 22-24, www.co-berlin.org)
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THE GUIDE | SIGHTSEEING
The canals in Spreewald.
Postcards From Venice
© ISTOCK
Annabelle Mallia proves you don’t need to travel to Italy for that Venice feeling. lake in Berlin's southeast Köpenick district is a Think of Venice, and you'll immediately five-kilometer canal system called Neu long for the romantic canals of the Italian Venedig (New Venice). The waterways and lagoon-city. But you don't have to catch a the 13 bridges that lead over them are what plane to satisfy your desires. Not too far gave the area its name. It might not be as big from Berlin's city center are breathtaking as its Italian inspiration, nor can it be explored water landscapes recalling the famous in a gondola or even a Spreewald city of gondolas. barge, but it is perfectly accessible About 100 kilometers southeast by canoe – hired from 13kanus. of Berlin is the beautiful UNESCO biosphere reserve of Spreewald is also famous Spreewald, consisting of more for its pickled gherkins. Taste a variety of flavors than 200 small canals sculpted at the cucumber mile by retracting glaciers during the at Lübbenau last Ice Age. The towns of harbor. Lübbenau and Lübben are the easiest to reach by train and once there you can take a guided tour on one of the traditional barges, propelled by a punting action similar to the gondolas in Venice, or hire a canoe and paddle yourself. The waterways cut through tranquil meadows and tall forests, so be sure to keep a map handy so you don’t get lost. Tucked away near the mighty Müggelsee
de (Küstergarten 18, www.13kanus.de) – and is just as charming. Rather than Renaissance palazzos, the tiny waterways are lined with cottage gardens, weeping willows, and families of ducks floating in and out of reeds. Klein Venedig (Little Venice), in the northwest district of Spandau, is a lesser known but similarly beautiful enclave of lily-padded canals and enviable waterside homes. Nature lovers will marvel at the dense reed beds, high meadows, and the abundance of waterfowl that comfortably swim together with their young next to paddleboats, which you can hire from Der Bootsladen (Brandensteinweg 37). Most of the canals are only knee-deep so can be enjoyed by sailors of all ages. www.wheretraveler.com 31
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SIGHTSEEING
MAJOR SIGHTS The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3
MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3
Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3
Hackesche Höfe This series interconnected courtyards is a great example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 4041. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2
Haus der Kulturen der Welt Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals because of its curvy shape, the Haus der Kulturen der Welt was built as a congress hall in 1956. The building quickly became a symbol of western freedom and creativity, in contrast to East German architectural projects of the time. Computer-guided chime concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm and the building now hosts concerts and intercultural events. Open daily 10am–7pm. € prices vary.
Splash Of Fun Happy kids make happy parents, so best to add a playground stop to your sightseeing itinerary. At this time of year, water playgrounds are a favorite. The Wasserspielplatz in Britzer Garten (Sangerhauser Weg 1. www.gruen-berlin.de) with its reconstructed rock landscape, rippling stream, and lock gates will keep little water engineers entertained for hours and the surrounding acres of hilly meadows and large scenic pond make for a great family day out. Not to mention the scatter of cafés offering all-important coffee and ice cream. In the greenery of Treptower Park you’ll find Plansche im Plänterwald (Dammweg 6). The large playground area with sprouting water fountains and shady trees is perfect to cool off. Afterwards walk down the esplanade along the River Spree to fill hungry bellies and soak up the lively atmosphere. Still high on the fun factor but educational too, the Wasserwerkstatt (Dillenburger Str. 57. www.wassermuseum-berlin.de) near the Steglitz shopping strip has a series of water stations to explore, including a water pipes construction site, sponge throwing, garbage bin fishing, and many other splashing opportunities.
www.hkw.de. John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10. T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3
Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern
reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3
HISTORIC SITES Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's
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aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. Kochstraße. E3/E4
Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. Bernauer Straße. E2
Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4
East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery.
Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4
Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the
Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3
Stasi Prison Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map
Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and
Back To The Middle Ages COURTESY OF MUSEUMSDORF DÜPPEL.
Let‘s go up!
Nestled in the forest, the reconstructed medieval village at Museumsdorf Düppel (Clauertstr. 11, www.dueppel.de) represents an entire settlement from the early 1200s. The historical buildings for housing, work, and baking bread have been reconstructed based on archeological findings, and gardens and livestock established as part of daily life. Witness old crafts, such as woodcarving, pottery, and blacksmithing, fetch water from deep inside a well, and play games used as entertainment back in medieval times. At the Handwerkerfest on 2 and 3 June, kids and adults alike can take part in workshops and learn various crafts from bygone times.
Towering 368m above Berlin, the TV Tower dominates the city’s skyline like no other building. Plan your visit for the observation deck or the revolving restaurant “Sphere” now and avoid the queues – book your Fast Track Ticket online. Berlin TV Tower – simply unforgettable!
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SIGHTSEEING
WALL BASICS
the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4
KIDS & FAMILIES Angyok An interactive attraction created out of 60 tons of ice invites you to experience the fascinating landscapes of the Arctic. www.angiyok.de. Spandauer Str. 2. T: 030 40744350. S Hackescher Markt. F3
Berlin Zoo and Aquarium
A compact guide to the five most important Berlin Wall sites.
1
To see what the Wall really looked like in all its gray and intimidating might, visit its last remaning untouched stretch at the Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer, between Nordbahnhof and U Bernauer Straße.
2 3
For a more colorful stretch of the infamous barrier, check out the mural paintings on the East Side Gallery (S+U Warschauer Str.), painted by artists in the early 1990s. Those running short on time can admire a still-standing portion of the Berlin Wall without leaving the center, on the western side of the Topographie des Terrors grounds in Niederkirchnerstraße.
4
If you want a more emotional Wall experience, artist Yagedar Asisi did a fantastic job recreating the Wall atmospheres, views, and noises on an October day in 1980 in his Wall Panorama installation in Friedrichstraße (www.asisi.de).
5
Now that you’ve seen the main views, go pro by examining the rest of the Wall at the so-called “Wall cemetery,” an abandoned field in Teltow (Oderstraße, S Teltow Stadt then bus X1), just outside of Berlin, where the city placed dozens of remaining Wall slabs, some artfully painted, some gray, all surrounded by overgrown grass.
POTSDAM Filmpark Babelsberg In the early 1900s, the Babelsberg film studios produced some of the most important films of the silent era, including Metropolis, until the facilities were taken over by the Nazi regime to produce political propaganda. Today, the studios are still in use, but part of the complex has been turned into a theme park, with old sets, stuntmen, special effects, and children’s sections dedicated to popular TV characters. Daily 10am–6pm from April to October, closed Mon in May and on Mon and Tues in September, on 6 and 13 October. €21/14, under-4s free. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de. Grossbeerenstr., Potsdam-Babelsberg. T: 0331.7212750. S Griebnitzsee. Off Map
MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that Sanssouci provide ample indoor space, making the venue MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, without cares." The king of Prussia employed features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, the finest architects of the day to design and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. the Baroque park, the Schloß placed Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, above terraced vineyards, the more under-4s free. Combined Zoosober New Palace, and a few other Aquarium ticket: €20/10. pavilions scattered in the park. In 1995, artist Christo www.aquarium-berlin.de, Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); wrapped up the www.zoo-berlin.de Reichstag in 100,000 Mon closed. €15/11. Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. sq.m. of polypropylene www.spsg.de. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4 fabric. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional Botanischer Garten train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam This large park was designed in the Hauptbahnhof. Off Map Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants. Open daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset. Berliner Unterwelten Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3.
TOURS & WALKS
Karls-Erlebnisdorf What began as a family-run strawberry farm has blossomed into an amusement park empire. With seven locations, including one just west of Berlin city limits, Karls Erlebnisdorf offers year-round fun for the whole family. Sample the famous Karl's strawberries and all sorts of berry treats, take a ride down the roller coaster or giant potato sack slide, and have all sorts of memorable adventures. Open daily 8am–7pm. Price per activity varies. www.karls.de. Döberitzer Heide 1, 14641 Elstal. T: 038.2024050. Off Map
Tempelhof Airport Park MUST SEE What used to be the city’s most central airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park whose six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other sports. This is where many Berliners spend their weekends, bringing BBQ equipment or just picnicking on the grass while their kids fly colorful kites. Tempelhofer Damm. S Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke, U Boddinstraße. Off Map
Tiergarten Park Created as hunting grounds for the Electors of Brandenburg, the park we know today was designed in the early 1800s by landscape architect Peter Joseph Lenné and includes a pond with boat rentals and a café, as well as many pleasant trails to explore. The park also houses a zoo, a number of embassies, and the Schloss Bellevue, the residence of the President of Germany. S Tiergarten, S Bellevue. C3, D3
(Underground Tours)
Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.
Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.orate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4
RIVER TRIP Reederei Riedel Fourteen ships take visitors on 1-, 1.5-, and 3-hour cruises of the city’s canals and rivers. www.reederei-riedel.de. T: 030.67961470.
Stern und Kreis Schiffahrt Choose from 30 different boat tours along the city’s rivers and canals, including bus-boat combination tours of the Brandenburg region. buchung.sternundkreis.de. T: 030.5363600.
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THE GUIDE | MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
GABI NGCOBO: PHOTO BY MASIMBA SASA; DONNA KUKAMA: PHOTO BY ANTHEA SCHAAP; PHILIPP KHABO KOEPSELL: PHOTO BY ANTHEA SCHAAP; KW: PHOTO BY FRANK SPERLING; THE ZKU CENTER © ZKU
Clockwise from left: A performance by artist Donna Kukama ; The KW Center for Contemporary Art; a performance by Philipp Khabo Koepsell; the ZK/U Center for Art and Urbanistics.
This Time Without Heroes Serene Tseng steps into the capital’s transformation as the 10th Berlin Biennale for Contemporary Art begins. Every two years, the Berlin Biennale (www. dedication to promoting art and politics. Like the song for which it's named, the year's berlinbiennale.com) transforms the city Biennale title reflects a modern sentiment of into an urban platform for contemporary self-preservation amid systems of hierarchy art. This year's edition, from 9 June until and oppression. 9 September, brings ample The Akademie der Künste opportunities for both artists (www.adk.de) explores these and visitors to engage ideas cleverly by placing with the theme of three historical global power “Sanssouci” palaces structures and the together in one cycles of history. context. Schloss Titled We Don’t Need Sanssouci, Frederick Another Hero after a the Great’s summer Tina Turner song, palace in Potsdam, is this year’s Biennale is juxtaposed with the curated by Gabi Sans-Souci Palace of Ngcobo, with Haiti, which is exhibitions at the introduced along with KW Institute for Curator Gabi Ngcobo Colonel Jean-Baptiste Sans Contemporary Art, the Souci, a leader of the Haitian Volksbühne Pavilion, the Revolution. Together, the three Akademie der Künste, and the ZK/U Sanssoucis emphasize the close association of Center for Art and Urbanistics, venues history and the institutions that form them, as selected for their roles as cultural centers and
well as the connectedness between names, histories, and leaders. In the glass-walled Volksbühne Pavilion on Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz (www.volksbuehne. berlin), the open nature of the structure provides the perfect location for performances and installations that invite public interaction. A close supporter of the Berlin Biennale since the beginning, the KW Institute for Contemporary Art (Auguststr. 69, www. kw-berlin.de) will host an exhibition that explores the reach and influence of contemporary art worldwide, along with portraits of those who have challenged hierarchical structures in politics and academia. Finally, the ZK/U Center for Art and Urbanistics (Siemensstr. 27, www.zku-berlin. org) teams up with artist collective KUNSTrePUBLIK to examine how various identities fit or don’t fit into the systems of power in the environment, whether it is natural, constructed, contemporary, or historic. www.wheretraveler.com 35
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
MUSEUMS Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To 31 Aug: Flesh | Meat. Between life and death is meat and our relationship to It. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 15 Jul: Concordia - Art and Science in Harmony. Leo von Klenze and Karl Richard Lepsius. Two artists' work that fused archaeology with art. To 16 Sep: Wanderlust. From Caspar David Friedrich to Auguste Renoir. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 31 Jan: Two Camels and a Saint. The Antique Pilgrimage Site of Abu Mina in Egypt. An exploration of the ancient pilgrimage site. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
Art Reflects Society
Bröhan Museum Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. To 17 Jun: Berlin Realism. Käthe Kollwitz to Otto Dix. Berlin Secession artists critique Berlin's social situation from the 1890-1930s. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3
DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3
THE CITY SKYLINE
No matter the era, Berlin is always on the brink of major change. From the 1890s to the 1930s, the capital experienced rapid industrialization, the start and end of WWI, and the forming of the Weimar Republic. The Berlin Secession artist group, made up of artists like Heinrich Zille, Käthe Kollwitz, and Otto Dix, formed as a response to the social climate and change and used their work as an avenue to critique war, loss, capitalism, and injustice. Berlin Realism. Käthe Kollwitz to Otto Dix, showing at the Bröhan Museum (this page) until 17 June, explores the Secessionists’ methods used for endeavoring to understand the world around them.
Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German
history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. From 13 Jun: Europe and the Sea. Exploring the history of Europe, the maritime continent. To 26 Aug: Saving – History of a German Virtue. Exploring how saving became a behavior linked to Germany. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a
Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. To 24 Jun: The Pigeon Photographer. Winged Pioneers of Aerial Photography. The origins of the bird's-eye view and how carrier pigeons photographed from the sky. To 31 Jul: Cars from the Depot on Show. Showing more than 200 cars, from 1923-1987. To 2 Sep: Seamarks! Highlights of Orientation Along Germany's Coasts. A presentation of how seafarers found their direction on the sea. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4
KÄTHE KOLLWITZ: WORKERS AT THE STATION: COURTESY OF BRÖHAN MUSEUM. BERLIN SKYLINE: © ISTOCK, COURTESY OF BIKINI BERLIN. ONKEL TOMS SIEDLUNG: PHOTO BY DANIELE MANISCALCHI
Altes Museum
A HISTORIC TIMELINE OF BERLIN’S ARCHITECTURE
1906
1920s
1927
1951
1957
1968
Hackesche Höfe: The fully restored courtyards are a prime example of Altbau architecture.
Onkel Toms Hütte: Bauhaus architect Taut created an airy estate in the Grunewald forest.
Tempelhof Airport: One of Europe’s three iconic pre-WWII airports, rebuilt by the Nazis in the 1930s.
Karl-Marx-Allee: The highrises here were designed to reflect the grandeur of the socialist regime.
Haus der Kulturen der Welt: An example of West Berlin’s post-war modern style.
Neue Nationalgalerie: Mies van der Rohe’s museum was part of the city’s redevelopment.
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Kupferstichkabinett MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the Great Elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in English as the Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Temporary exhibitions on local cultural history fill this great Baroque building. Demolished in 1935, the Märkisches Museum Palais was rebuilt in 1983 using its The Allied Museum in Documents, photos, books, and original façade, which had been Zehlendorf traces the weapons walk visitors through stored in a warehouse for almost history of the Allied 750 years of Berlin history in a 50 years. Open Tue, Thu–Sun presence in Berlin. neo-Gothic setting. To 14 Sep: BIZIM 10am–6pm, Wed noon-8pm. €7/5 BERLIN 89/90. Photographs by Ergun (under 18s free, first Wed of month free Çagatay. Photographic documents of entry). www.stadtmuseum.de. Poststr. 16. the German Reunification through the lens of T: 030.24002162. U Alexanderplatz. F3 Berlin's Turkish population. Free admission until Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg Museum 9 June. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/4 (under-18s free; Kreuzberg enthusiasts can learn more about free entry first Wed of month). the history and radical legacy of this legendary www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5. neighborhood at this small museum housed in a T: 030.24002162. typical red-brick building. Open Wed–Sun noon– U Märkisches Museum. F3 6pm. www.kreuzbergmuseum.de. Adalbertstr. 95a. Martin-Gropius-Bau T: 030.50585233. U Kottbusser Tor. F4 MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum) example of early 20th-century architecture, the One of the world’s largest and most significant imposing building combines Italian Renaissance institutions for archiving, researching, and elements with local features, such as mosaics of communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse allegorical figures. From 8 Jun: Welt ohne Außen. A approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, bisexual, dive into the immersive practices that reduce the and queer biographies and concepts in history, distance between subject and object. To 5 Aug: art, and culture. Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Philippe Parreno. Using the exhibition as a medium Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. exploring light, sound, and image. To 22 Jul: www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73. Covered in Time and History: The Films of Ana Mendieta. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4 Using the female form to explore body art, the environment, and nature. To Feb 2019: Wu Tsang. Jewish Museum Her year-long residency explores states between MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, documentary and fiction. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. millennia of German Jewish history, including the Niederkirchnerstr. 7. alternating glories and persecutions of the T: 030.254860. community. To Spring 2019: Welcome to Jerusalem. U Kochstraße. E4 An exploration of Jerusalem through time and religions. To Fall 2019: Ganzfeld "Aural" by James Menschen Museum Turrell. Immersive light sculptures in the museum's The internationally popular touring exhibition Body garden Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. plastination process, which preserves body parts U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4 and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 Käthe Kollwitz Museum whole-body preparations, focusing on specific Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. of the most relevant German women artists of www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1. the last century. Her primary focus was the daily S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
1999
2001
2014
Potsdamer Platz: The former heart of Berlin. Famed architects worked for years to rebuild the bustling square.
Reichstag Dome: The glass dome atop Germany’s parliament offers 360-degree views.
Jewish Museum: Libeskind designed a crooked star to symbolize the difficult history of German Jews.
Bikini-Haus: The 1957 building has now been renovated as part of West Berlin’s comeback.
PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE
1990s
l museum Internatiotna exhibition permanen
(worth
2,80 €)
open daily:
Jan - Jun 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. Jul - Aug 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. Sep - Dec 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. (24th December closed)
Last entrance: 7 p.m. Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7 Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial
Ephraim Palais
struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war. Featuring works from Kollwitz’s most intensive and emotionally-charged years. Daily 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24. T: 030.8825210. U Uhlandstraße. C4
2707
3360
Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de
(**0,14 €/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42 €/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until September, 30th 2018.
With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.
www.daliberlin.de
Take a walk through
Berlin’s history
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Erlebnis Europa Experience Europe in the heart of Berlin! Take a seat in their 360° cinema for a plenary session of the European Parliament, take on the role of a Commissioner of the European Union in their simulation game, discover EU members states with facts and figures and stories from daily life, or simply take a European happy snap to send home. All in 24 European languages. Open daily 10am–6pm. Free Admission. www.erlebnis-europa. eu. Unter den Linden 78. T: 030 22802900. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Museum of Musical Instruments A fascinating collection of ancient and modern musical instruments, including bagpipes, harpsichords, and instruments once owned by celebrities. Check the website for the weekly demonstrations of the most impressive musical machines, such as a silent film-era cinema organ. Open Tue, Wed, Fri 9am–5pm, Thu 9am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm. €6/3 (under 18s free). www.sim.spk-berlin.de. Tiergartenstr. 1. T: 030.254810. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Museum of Communication An entertaining journey through the history of communication inside the neo-Baroque building that once hosted Berlin’s post office museum. Robots welcome visitors and iPads make perfect tour guides through the most intriguing steps in the development of postal and telephone communication, all the way to the era of information technology. Open Tue 9am–8pm, Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm. €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger Str. 16. T: 030.202940. U Mohrenstraße, Stadtmitte. E3
Museum für Naturkunde
It might well be that aerial photography first came from a camera strapped onto a bird. A century ago, a German pharmacist by the name of Julius Neubronner wanted to monitor his courier pigeons’ location and came up with the idea to attach cameras to them. As a result, these images taken from above became the first bird’s-eye view shots ever, even attracting the military’s interest. Although the collaboration between Neubronner and the Prussian Ministry of War ended in favor of reconnaissance aircraft, the pharmacist continued to develop his lightweight cameras in search of commercial success. The Pigeon Photographer, showing at the Deutsches Technikmuseum (p. 36) until 24 June, uses original prints to tell the story of the wonderful beginning of aerial photography.
Museum Barberini Potsdam Located in a reconstructed palace in the historic center of Potsdam, this museum houses the collection of founder and patron Hasso Plattner. Exhibitions range from Old Masters to contemporary art with a focus on impressionism. With the Barberini App you can choose your own audio tour. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. €14/10 (€8 after 6pm; kids and students free). Alter Markt, Humboldtstr. 5–6. T: 0331 236014499. Off Map
Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3
Museum of Musical Instruments A fascinating collection of ancient and modern musical instruments, including bagpipes, harpsichords, and instruments once owned by
celebrities. Check the website for the weekly demonstrations of the most impressive musical machines, such as a silent film-era cinema organ. Open Tue, Wed, Fri 9am–5pm, Thu 9am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm. €6/3 (under 18s free). www.sim.spk-berlin.de. Tiergartenstr. 1. T: 030.254810. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. From 2 Jun: Between Art & Fashion. Photographs from the collection of Carla Sozzani, former editor-in-chief of Italian Elle and Vogue. To 3 Jun: Sigrid Neubert. Photographs: Architecture and Nature. A retrospective showcasing Neubert's crisp and high-contrast images. From 29 Jun: Artist Complex. Photographic Portraits from Baselitz to Warhol. Works from photographer Angelika Platen. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb. museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4
Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 7 Oct: Margiana. A Bronze Age Kingdom in Turkmenistan. Objects from the ancient kingdom, shown for the first time outside of Turkmenistan. To Sep 2019: The Crown of Kerch. Treasures from the Dawn of European History. Featuring gold jewelry from the Migration Period found near the Black Sea. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3
Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian world. Altar room closed for restoration through 2019. To 8 Jul: A Gallery in a Book. Islamic Albums. Beautiful drawings and calligraphy commissioned by Mogul-era art lovers. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S Hackescher Markt. E3
The German Spy Museum Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutsches-spionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3
COURTESY OF DEUTSCHE TECHNIKMUSEUM.
The Winged Pioneers
Home to the world’s largest mounted dinosaur skeleton and to Europe's first original T. rex, the natural history museum also features a rare speciment of Archaeopterix, as well as extensive collections of shells, insects, and mammals. Tue– Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/5. www. museumfuernaturkunde.berlin. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.8891408591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2
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For Explorers!
Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map
ART GALLERIES Akademie der Künste Hanseatenweg The Berlin Art Academy’s long and prestigious history dates back to 1696. Today, this important exhibition space houses one of the most comprehensive interdisciplinary archives of 20thcentury art. Daily 11am–7pm. €6/4.). www.adk.de. Hanseatenweg 10. T: 030.200572000. S Bellevue, U Hansaplatz. C3 A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. From 22 Jun: Loredana Nemes. Photographs 2008-2017. Exploring themes of barely-suppressed energy, on the brink of change. To 3 Sep: Carsten Nicolai. Straddling the line between visual art and electronic sound. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4
Brücke Museum Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color. This museum explores the history of the movement through the paintings of artists like Nolde, Kirchner, Heckel, and many more. To 12 Aug: A Museum of Artists for Berlin: Karl Schmidt-Rottluff, Leopold Reidemeister and Werner Düttmann. Following the beginnings of the Künstlermuseum tradition as the place for exchange Open Wed– Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.bruecke-museum.de. Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029. U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map
©SDTB / Foto C. Kirchner
Berlinische Galerie
Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin | Entrance Ladestrasse | Möckernstr. 26 | www.sdtb.de
Berliner Festspiele
Gropius Bau 20.4.– 22.7.18
C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 1 July: Irving Penn. Celebrating the photographer’s 100th birthday with over 240 featured works. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian,
Covered in Time and History: Die Filme von
Ana Mendieta Mendieta, Untitled: Silueta, Series, 1978, Super 8 film, color, silent © The Estate of Ana Mendieta, Collection, LLC. Courtesy Galerie Lelong & Co
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 26 Aug: Hello World. Revisioning a Collection. g. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.smb.museumInvalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2
Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre. From 1 Jun: Between Art and Fashion. Photographs from the collection of Carla Sozzani, former editor-in-chief of Italian Elle and Vogue. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www.helmutnewton.com. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3
Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee CT L he former summer residence of artist Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermann-villa.de. Colomierstr. 3. T: 030.80585900. S Wannsee. Off Map
me Collectors Room
A world of exhibitions
Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 1 Jul: It Smells Like… Flowers & Fragrances. The sensory pull of flowers in contemporary society. To 27 Aug: Outlook: EVA & ADELE - L'AMOUR DU RISQUE. Presenting the artist couple's multi-medium work in the last 25 years. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2
Sammlung Boros No more than 12 guests at a time can visit this former Nazi bunker turned art gallery. Collector Chistian Boros bought the historic building in 2003 to fill it up with contemporary art by artists like Damien Hirst, Olafur Eliasson, and more. Open by appointment only (book online). €12. www.sammlung-boros.de. Reinhardtstr. 20. T: 030.27594065. S+U Friedrichstraße. E2/E3
Sammlung Hoffmann An old sewing factory behind the Hackesche Höfe now contains Rolf and Erika Hoffmann’s private collection. Erika herself shows visitors around her art-packed apartment on Saturdays between 11am and 4pm. €10. www.sammlung-hoffmann.de. Sophie-Gips-Höfe, Aufgang C, Sophienstr. 21. T: 030.28499120. S Hackescher Markt. F2 ©ISTOCK
Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg
®
Berlin
The Scharf-Gerstenberg collection houses three floors of works by some of the giants of Surrealism, including Paul Klee, Max Ernst, Salvador Dalí, and René Magritte. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 70. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3
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THE GUIDE | DINING
This photo: Soft-shell crab at Mrs. Robinson's. Aboveright and right: Bricole.
When In Prenzlauer Berg…
BRICOLE: © BRICOLE; MRS ROBINSON'S, COURTESY OF MRS ROBINSON'S.
Break out of the Mitte bubble and try Hilda Hoy's recommendations for dining in a different ‘hood. With its leafy, well-maintained residential streets and peaceful vibe, Prenzlauer Berg is an extremely pleasant spot to while away an afternoon. Check out a farmer’s market, take a stroll, or simply soak up the local lifestyle at a sidewalk café, watching the world go by. And when dinner hour approaches, there’s no need to move elsewhere to get a bite to eat. With a number of establishments for casual fine dining now settled into the ‘hood, even the most discerning foodies are sure to be sated with what Prenzlauer Berg has to offer. Just opened last year, Bricole (Senefelderstr. 30, www.bricole.de) has already established itself as a local favorite in the lovely Helmholtzkiez neighborhood. It’s dubbed itself an hors d’œuvre bar, which is another way of saying all the dishes are appetizer-sized small plates to be mixed and matched, rooted in French cuisine but not
exclusively so. The colorful array of delicious, creative dishes changes with the seasons, and vegetarians can count on one-third of the selection being plant-based. Go for the set tasting menus if you’re feeling indecisive, or choose from options like foie gras parfait with apple and onion marmalade, braised ox cheek with pea puree, or smoked buffalo mozzarella in a tomato consommé. Despite the high-caliber chef talent, the vibe is low-key and welcoming, with tables scattered on the sidewalk on warm evenings. On the other side of the Platz for which this neighborhood is named is Mrs. Robinson’s (Pappelallee 29, www.mrsrobinsons.de), a style-conscious spot with a knack for creative fusion. The changing menu incorporates Asian influences for a very contemporary culinary style, and the hipster clientele raves about the house-made infusions and syrups that go into the funky cocktails. Feast on
dishes like octopus and aged beef skewers grilled over charcoal, lamb loin and sweetbreads in Cantonese-inspired XO sauce, or Mrs. Robinson’s famous fried chicken bao, a Chinese-style bun stuffed with crispy chicken, flying fish roe, and tabasco honey. Just a couple minutes away on busy Eberswalder Straße is Les Valseuses (Eberswalder Str. 28, www.lesvalseuses.de), a snug, casual French bistro that’s easy to walk right past if you aren’t paying attention. The compact yet appealing menu is comprised of core French classics like duck rillettes, buttery escargots, entrecote with golden frites, and one of the best steak tartares in town, plus creative daily specials based on what’s fresh and in season – like seared tuna tataki, French-style grilled dorade, and braised spring artichokes. Whatever you do, make sure to save room for a crème brûlée for dessert. www.wheretraveler.com 41
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DINING
DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.
FINE DINING For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.
5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3
Facil
other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2
Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4
modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com. Landsberger Allee 106. T: 030.4530532620. S Landsberger Allee. H2
Tim Raue
From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the best-known culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant Berliner Weisse is a pale serves refined interpretations of ale brewed only in the Asian cuisine, such as his famed capital and usually personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. served with a shot of Tue–Sat L&D. www.tim-raue.com. syrup. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4
Skykitchen Part of the andel’s Hotel, Skykitchen brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for
ASIAN Gagans Indian. Just a five-minute walk from the Kurfürstendamm shopping boulevard, Gagans serves delicious North Indian specialties every day of the week, including daily lunch specials and
Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3
Golvet Modern European. With its spacious terrace, classy lounge, and sweeping cityscape views, Golvet is much more than a restaurant – it's also a prime spot for taking in the sunset with an aperitif in hand. The ambiance of sleek Nordic-inspired style pairs perfectly with the menu of high-end European fusion dishes €€. Tues–Sat D. www.golvet.de. Potsdamer Str. 58, 8th floor. T: 030.89064222. S Tiergarten. D4
Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4
Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun and Mon. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2
Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the
Italian From Due East
It’s 2018, and the world feels a little smaller every day. So why shouldn’t some of the most exciting Italian cuisine in town have come to Berlin via Moscow, in the capable hands of an Armenian-Russian star chef? MINE, a stylish, modern Italian eatery in the heart of Charlottenburg, is the first German outpost from the man who’s been dubbed “Russia’s Jamie Oliver,” celebrity restaurateur Aram Mnatsakanov. With his talented son Mikhail taking the helm as chef, MINE serves high-caliber renditions of classic Italian favorites, such as vitello tonnato, spaghetti vongole, homemade tagliatelle with a rich and tender rabbit ragout, or succulent rib-eye steak, perfectly grilled in the Tuscan style. To fit with the modern ambience, however, the menu also ventures into some contemporary culinary twists, like the fresh shrimp ceviche appetizer paired with ginger granite, and the crisp veal sweetbreads with shiitake mushroom sauce. A snug, adjacent wine bar is the perfect spot to wait for your table while sampling a glass or two from the extensive wine list, which includes an impressive range of natural and biodynamic vintages. Meinekestr. 10. T: 030 88926363. www.minerestaurant.de
COOKIES CREAM: © RENE RIIS.
Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience. €€€€. Wed–Sat D. www.lorenzadlonesszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3
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DINING a plentiful all-you-can-eat buffet on Sundays. A highlight are the sizzling meat dishes roasted the traditional way in a clay tandoor oven. €€. Daily L&D. www.gagans.de. Uhlandstr. 149. T: 030 37470302. U Spichernstraße. B4–C4.
India Club Indian. Just steps away from the Brandenburg
Gate is this luxurious hideaway for high-end North Indian cuisine, boasting an ambience that is both elegant and colorful.A renowned chef flown in from New Delhi lends his masterful touch to the menu of extravagantly spiced specialties. €€€. Daily D.www.india-club-berlin.com. Behrenstr. 72. T: 030.20628610. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3
Jolly Chinese. Just across the water from Museum
Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim sum dumplings as possible before moving on to the menu’s extensive variety of Sichuan-style and Cantonese dishes. Traditional Peking duck is the house specialty. €€. Daily L&D. www.restaurant-jolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4–4a. T: 030.20059500. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Kimchi Princess Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website
for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi.
€€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4
Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt. com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4
Sra Bua Thai/Japanese. Berlin’s home-grown star chef Tim Raue has done it again. Sra Bua, in the Hotel Adlon, is his latest restaurant to show off his love for the cuisines of Asia. Guests can expect only the most high-caliber Thai and Japanese cooking, and the Raue specialty: curries that are refined yet exploding with flavor. €€€. Tue-Sat D. www.srabuaadlon.de. Behrenstr. 72. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3
FRENCH Restaurant 1687 French-Mediterranean. Enjoy refined, stylish dining with a side of intriguing history – just a stone's throw from Brandenburg Gate. The restaurant takes its name from the year in which the first Protestant church in Berlin was built on this very site, an important gathering place for French Huguenots fleeing religious persecution. The church was
reduced to ruins in WWII, but in its place you can enjoy French-Mediterranean dishes and a top-notch wine selection. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.1687.berlin. Mittelstr. 30. T: 030.20630611. U Friedrichstraße. E3
Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s restaurant is all about
French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists. Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant.com. Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000. U Augsburger Straße. C4
Lamazère Brasserie French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the
bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the revered Michelin Guide, a category commending great food at good value. The three-course dinner menu for €35 will allow you to sample various French food musts, like oeufs cocotte baked eggs, charcuterie platters, duck confit, beef tartare, and tarte tatin for dessert. Whatever the kitchen has cooking that night, every delicacy has that je ne sas quoi that has made French cuisine so famous. €€€. Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de. Stuttgarter Platz 18. T: 030.31800712.S Charlottenburg. B4
Le Faubourg Mediterranean. This classy brasserie facing the famed Ku’damm features modern art and a crisp, stylish interior alongside its menu of
THE GRAND TERRACE OPEN DAILY
Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 Hirtenstr. 4 | 10178 Berlin | www.the-grand-berlin.com
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DINING
0
Come in!
Enjoy Bavarian Cosiness, German Cuisine and International Soccer. 14.6.–15.7. Public Viewing
both classic and updated French cuisine. The recently revamped brasserie in the Hotel Sofitel Kurfürstendamm is the perfect spot for either a posh business lunch or a romantic dinner. Try the flambéed shrimp for a fiery cooking performance right at your table. €€. Daily L&D. www.sofitel.com. Augsburger Str. 41. T: 030.8009990. U Kurfürstendamm. C4
Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including
Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4
GERMAN/AUSTRIAN AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts
Friedrichstraße 185–190 maximilians-berlin.de
Berlin’s most delicious restaurants
an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3
Altes Zollhaus German. This quaint, cottage-style building
was first constructed in the 1800s, when it served as a tollhouse for passing steamboats, then painstakingly restored after WWII. Today, it’s a canal-side restaurant serving elevated German cuisine created from the finest regional ingredients. €€–€€€. Tues–Sat D. www.altes-zollhaus-berlin.de. Carl-Herz-Ufer 30. T: 030.6923300. U Prinzenstraße. E4
Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot
of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3
Hofbräuhaus German. An Oktoberfest atmosphere for the
whole family 365 days a year. This restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in typical Bavarian style, alongside live music, waiters in traditional costume, and the traditional Hofbräu beer, brewed in Munich since the 1700s. Expect dumplings and roasted ham hock at their popular Sunday brunch. €. www.hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30. T: 030 679665520. U + S Alexanderplatz. F2
The Grand
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German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2
Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of
®
Berlin
Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters. There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D.
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DINING www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b. T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3
Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.
Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3
Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s
traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a
refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients. Specialties include extra-big currywurst and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2
Neumond German. The sight of Neumond’s historic
and refined counter is a hint at the restaurant’s simple elegance – in both interior design and menu, which includes a vast selection of courses; classics and specials. And for everyone with a sweet tooth: There’s a white chocolate mousse on the dessert menu. To top it all off: A bar with a variety of drinks to choose from. Borsigstr. 28, Mitte. Daily L and Tue-Sun D. www.office@neumond-restaurant.de. T: 030.2857505. S Nordbahnhof. E2
Renger-Patzsch German. All dark wood and white tablecloths, the look at Renger-Patzsch is as simple and elegant as is its menu of refined German-Austrian cuisine. Meat dishes are a specialty, as are the Alsatian Flammkuchen, bases of thin dough baked with topping combos like apple and blood sausage. €€. Daily D. www.renger-patzsch.com. Wartburgstr. 54. T: 030.7842059. U Eisenacher Straße. C5
Rotisserie Weingrün German/European. Overlooking
the canal on the southern edge of Museum Island, this elegant-casual restaurant is a favorite of many local German bread is among the best in the world, gastronomes. The highlight is the and there are some 600 huge, upright flame grill, which varieties from which to prepares steaks, ribs, pork belly, and choose. rotisserie chicken to perfection. Try the octopus salad or flambéed salmon for a special treat. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat D. www.rotisserie-weingruen.de. Gertraudenstr. 10. T: 030.20621900. U Spittelmarkt. F3.
Paris-Moskau French/German. This rustic house, built in 1898 and
lucky to survive two World Wars, was a Russian restaurant in two of its past lives. Today, it's an upscale destination seamlessly incorporating French, German, and Russian culinary influences. €€€. MonFri L&D, Sat D only. www.paris-moskau.de. Alt-Moabit 141. T: 030.3942081. S+U Hauptbahnhof. D3
Schneeweiss German/Austrian. With a crisply white interior reminiscent of snow-capped Alpine peaks, Schneeweiss serves classy takes on Austrian cuisine. Traditional dishes like schnitzel and goulash with Serviettenknödel dumplings share the menu with rotating seasonal offerings. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat–Sun B, L, D. www.schneeweiss-berlin.de. Simplonstr. 16. T: 030.29049704. S+U Warschauer Straße. H3
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DINING Volt German. The name of this restaurant and the edgy,
post-industrial interior remind diners that the space was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon– Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21. T: 030.61074033. U Kottbusser Tor. G4
Zeit für Brot German. Bread is a cornerstone of German food culture. Zeit für Brot – “Time for Bread” – is not only a bakery selling organic, artisanal German breads baked in-house, it’s also a café serving things like wholesome sandwiches, quiche “muffins,” and sweet treats like cinnamon buns. €. Daily B&L. www.zeitfuerbrot.com. Alte Schönhauser Str. 4. T: 030.28046780. U Weinmeisterstraße, U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2
Zillemarkt German. Zillemarkt is steeped in old-school Berliner charm. For a taste, try the “Berliner Allerlei” platter for two, with cabbage rolls, mushy peas, fried potatoes, and no less than five kinds of meat. €. Daily B, L, D. Bleibtreustr. 48a. T: 030.8817040. S Savignyplatz. B4
ITALIAN Barist Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13. T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3
Bocca di Bacco Italian. This high-level restaurant offers
modern Italian cuisine prepared with top-quality ingredients, accompanied by excellent wines. Contemporary furnishings and elegant atmosphere. www.boccadibacco.de. €€–€€€. Daily L&D. Friedrichstr. 167-168. T: 030.20672828. U Französische Straße. E3
magical things with traditional Arabic ingredients like preserved lemon, sumac, and lamb. €€€. Daily D, closed Sun–Mon. www.glassberlin.de. Uhlandstr. 195. T: 030.54710861. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3
OTHER Adana Grillhouse Turkish. This all-encompassing menu of Turkish
dishes allows for a full on Turkish experience – sights, smells and tastes to reflect the cuisine that has found its way into the heart and soul of Berlin. A high priority for Adana Grillhaus is to ensure a familiar and welcoming atmosphere. Second location in Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg at Manteuffelstr. 86. €€ Daily L&D. www.adanagrillhaus.de. Skalitzerstr. 105. T: 030.82409600. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4
Balikci Ergün Turkish. This quirky, hole-in-the-wall restaurant, with the look and feel of a fish market, serves fresh seafood the traditional Turkish way. Whole fried sardines and grilled fillets of the catch of the day are served simply with lush salads, lemon wedges, and warm Turkish bread. €€. Daily D. Lüneburger Str. 382. T: 030.3975737. S Bellevue. D3
Grand Rocka International. Inside, the restaurant takes over the historic arched space under S Hackescher Markt station, featuring a grand old wooden bar that lives up to the restaurant’s name, and out front, the terrace spills out across the busy Platz. The large international menu ranges from steaks to pizzas to burgers. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.grandrocka.de. Am Zwirngraben 6–7. T: 030.24638606. F2
Hasir Turkish. The little Turkish grill house rumored to be the birthplace of the döner kebab in the 1970s has since expanded to six locations around the city. The original restaurant near Kottbusser Tor is
a very popular spot for trying the full spectrum of what Turkish cuisine has to offer – far beyond the kebab. €€. Daily L&D. www.hasir.de. Adalbertstr. 10. T: 030.6142373. U Kottbusser Tor. F4
Vivolo Olé Spanish. Authentic Spanish cuisine at Hackescher Markt, including a wide selection of tapas, paellas, grilled meats and fresh fish dishes. Vegetarian and vegan options available. www.vivolo.de. Am Zwirngraben 11-12. T: 030.24631933. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3
VEGETARIAN/VEGAN Katjes Veggie Café Grün-Ohr Vegetarian. It’s heaven for the sweet-toothed. The
shop and café by Katjes not only stocks the brand’s full line of vegetarian-friendly, gelatin-free gummy candy, but also a rainbow of vegan cupcakes, coffee, and freshly squeezed juices that can be enjoyed on site or to go. €. Rosenthaler Str. 32. T: 030.97894702. www.cafegruenohr.de. F2
Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating top-notch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. U Senefelderplatz. F2
Lowkal Superfood The first low-carb, superfood café and restaurant in Berlin. No additional sugar used here, only fresh, seasonal produce full of all the vitamins, minerals, fructose, and fiber your body needs to power through the day without feeling lethargic. www.lowkal.berlin. Pfalzburger Str. 72A. T: 030.88720836. U Hohenzollernplatz. B4
I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere at this expansive pizza hall is on the raucous side and the service is notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizzaloving crowds at bay. The generously sized thincrust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2
Italofritzen Italian. Everyone’s favorite food: traditional
MIDDLE EASTERN Glass Modern Arabic. A 2013 addition to the west-end
gourmet scene, Glass is the baby of Israeli chef Gal Ben Moshe. Guests in the sleek, modern space get wowed with an innovative tasting menu that does
Cool, club-like Cookies Cream (Behrenstr. 55, www.cookiescream.com) dreams up vegetarian masterpieces that earned a 2018 Michelin star.
PHOTO BY RENE RIIS.
Italian pizza, homemade pasta, fresh mozzarella and tomato, good ham, cappuccino, and cornetti pastries done just the way you love it! www.friedrichs106.de. Friedrichstr. 105. T: 030.40040600. S+U Friedrichstraße E3
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THE GUIDE | ENTERTAINMENT
HEDY A © THE EVERETTE COLLECTION; HOLY AIR: COURTESY OF JEWISH FILM FESTIVAL ; FREILUFTKINO KREUZBERG: © FLK KREUZBERG.
Top right: Freiluftkino Kreuzberg; This photo and left: stills from the Jewish Film Festival.
...And Action! Solveig Steinhardt and Serene Tseng are going to the movies. Meet you at the popcorn counter! Who doesn't love a good movie? In a film-loving city like Berlin, movie theaters abound, but only a few of them screen films in their original, undubbed version. Check out our listings on p. 50 for a classic selection of theaters, or read on for more creative options to the classic experience. In addition to February's world-famous Berlinale, the German capital is also home to smaller film festivals spanning a wide variety of themes, from animation and short films to documentaries and Brazilian cinema. A very popular one is the Jewish Film Festival (www.jfbb.de), beginning this month on 26 June and continuing until 5 July. Since its inception in 1995, this festival has become an annual cultural event closely linked to the identity of the capital, showcasing different
perspectives on Jewish life and culture in Germany and around the world. The screenings of feature-length films, shorts, and documentaries from established and up-and-coming filmmakers alike take place at various cinemas. June is also the right time of year to take advantage of the balmy nights and stay out late with a film at one of the many open-air theaters, screening everything from cult classics to newer blockbusters, often in English or with English subtitles. Freiluftkino Friedrichshain (www.freiluftkino-berlin.de, Landsberger Allee 15) screens films across a large grassy amphitheater. Pick a spot on the ground or arrive early to grab a seat on a picnic bench, enjoying self-catered snacks and drinks or something from the on-site café.
For an especially charming film experience, head to the Freiluftkino Kreuzberg (www. freiluftkino-kreuzberg.de, Mariannenplatz 2), located in the courtyard of the Prussian-era building that now houses the Kunstraum Bethanian art center. This open-air theater screens a nightly lineup of international films from all eras, from the newly released Raving Iran (27 June, in Farsi with subtitles) about Teheran's techno scene to Murder on the Orient Express (23 June) in its new 2017 version. For even more options, head to one of Berlin's bigger parks, Volkspark Hasenheide, for a great selection of films. The program at Freiluftkino Hasenheide (Columbiadamm 160, www.freiluftkino-hasenheide.de) runs the gamut from hip art house to Hollywood blockbuster. www.wheretraveler.com 47
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ENTERTAINMENT
BALLET & OPERA Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 3, 8 Jun: Die Fledermaus (Wagner). 7, 9, 16 Jun: Carmen (Bizet). 14 Jun: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). www.deutscheoperberlin.de. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3
Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 2, 16, 22, 26 Jun: My Fair Lady (Loewe). 3, 15 Jun: Semele (Händel). 10 Jun: Blaubart (Offenbach). 16, 24, 28, 30 Jun: Die Nase (Shostakovich). 27 Jun: Carmen (Bizet). www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3
Staatsoper Unter Den Linden Berlin's historic opera house reopened in 2017 after lengthy renovations. Barenboim's perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres.1, 3 Jun: La Traviata (Verdi). 2, 7, 9, 13 Jun: Tosca (Puccini). 14 Jun: Pelleas et Melisande (Debussy). 17, 21, 24, 29 Jun: Macbeth (Verdi). 22, 30 Jun: Orfeo e Euridice (Gluck).
www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.2035540. Unter den Linden 7. U Alexanderplatz. E3
Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 1, 8, 18, 25 Jun: Doda, Goecke, Duato at Komische Oper. 2, 17 June: Don Quixote at Deutsche Oper. 10, 19, 27 Jun: Swan Lake (Tchaikovsky) at Deutsche Oper. 12, 20, 23 Jun: Romeo and Juliet (Prokofiev) at Staatsoper. www.staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3
CLASSICAL CONCERTS
Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 1 Jun: Pianist Yuja Wang performs Rachmaninov, LIgeti, and more. 11 Jun: Karg, Nagy, Huber perform Wolf's Italienisches Liederbuch. 17 Jun: Philharmonia Klaviertrio Berlin and Elena Bashkirova (piano) perform works by Tchaikovsky, Beethoven, and Piazzolla. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Konzerthaus
This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other Berliner Dom orchestras and soloists grace its During his Berlin stay Berlin’s main cathedral presents a stage regularly. 2 Jun: Vogler in 1970, David Bowie plethora of sacred music Quartet. 14 Jun: Young Euro shared his concerts year round. Classic Pre-Opening night. 22–24 Hauptstraße 157 www.berlinerdom.de. Jun: the Konzerthausorchester apartment with Am Lustgarten. (cond. Eschenbach) and Cameron Iggy Pop. T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Carpenter (organ) perform Markt. E3/F3 Rachmaninov and Dvorak. 29 Jun: the Konzerthausorchester (cond. Iván Fischer) and Hochschule für Musik Hans Eisler Cameron Carpenter (organ) perform Mozart One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. and Beethoven. Its students are members of important orchestras, www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. choirs, and bands, and the stage presents T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3 hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3
An Invitation To All
The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 1 Jun: Bill Murray, Mira Wang, Jan Vogler, Vanessa Perez perform Bach, Gershwin, and more, with works by Hemingway. 6 Jun: The Deutsche Symphonie-Orchester Berlin and Lisa Batiashvili (piano) play Brahms and Dvorak. 14–16 Jun: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Sir Simon Rattle) and Krystian Zimerman (piano) perform works by Bernstein, Norman, and more. 19–20 Jun: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Sir Simon Rattle) perform Mahler's 6th Symphony. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
STAATSOPER FÜR ALLE: COURTESY OF STAATSOPER.
Each year the award-winning orchestra Staatskapelle Berlin performs a free, open-air concert on historic Bebelsplatz under the baton of world-renowned conductor Daniel Barenboim. This year we’re in for an extra-special treat as Staatsoper Für Alle stretches over an entire weekend. On 16 June, works by Gioacchino Rossini, Claude Debussy, and Igor Stravinsky's Le Sacre du Printemps will be performed from 12pm. And starting at 6pm on 17 June there will be a live broadcast of the sold-out Staatsoper premiere of Verdi’s Macbeth, with Plàcido Domingo in the title role and Anna Netrebko as Lady Macbeth. Visitors are welcome to bring folding chairs, blankets, and picnic hampers to make themselves more comfortable, and parts of Unter den Linden will be closed to traffic to improve acoustics and the intimacy of this don’t-miss summer event. www.staatsoper-berlin.de
Philharmonie
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ON THIS MONTH THEATER, MUSICALS & DANCE THE ONE: GRAND SHOW Friedrichstadt-Palast, all month
BLUE MAN GROUP Bluemax Theater, all month
FINALE Chamäleon Theater, all month
TAKE IT EASY! Wintergarten Variete, to 10 Jun
ROCK, JAZZ, POP RINGO STARR Tempodrom,16 Jun.
GUNS N' ROSES Olympiastadion, 3 Jun.
KATY PERRY Mercedes-Benz Arena, 6 Jun.
ROLLING STONES Olympiastadion, 22 Jun
THE 12 TENORS Millennium Tour June 26 to July 15 Tickets 030. 39 06 65 50 // www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de
neuköllner oper LENNY KRAVITZ
a trip with songs by „stadtaffe“
Spandau Citadel, 12 Jun.
DIE TOTEN HOSEN Waldbühne, 7 Jun.
“An independent story amongst the excellent songs – congenial” (zitty)
BALLET & CLASSICAL LA TRAVIATA THE ROLLING STONES: COURTESY OF PR.
Staatsoper, 1, 3 Jun.
VOGLER QUARTETT
“Beastly good!” (Der Tagesspiegel)
Konzerthaus, 2 Jun.
DIE ZAUBERFLÖTE Deutsche Oper, 14 Jun.
ORFEO E EURIDICE Staatsoper 22, 30 Jun.
MAHLER'S 6TH SYMPHONY Philharmonie, 19, 20 Jun.
June 9 through July 18 www.neukoellneroper.de
es on ubtitl es s h s i l c Eng orman Wi t h d per f n e k e we
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ENTERTAINMENT Pierre Boulez Saal
Columbiahalle/C-Halle
Berlin’s newest concert hall is part of the Barenboim-Said Akademie, an institution dedicated to bringing together talented young musicians from Arab, Israeli, and Christian backgrounds. A unique, modern design by the venerable Frank Gehry design ensures stunning acoustics, and co-founder Daniel Barenboim makes regular appearances on stage. www.boulezsaal.de. Französische Str. 33D. T: 030 47997411. U Französische Straße. E3
The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www. columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5
MOVIE THEATERS CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
KulturBrauerei
The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser Allee 36. T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1
ROCK, POP, JAZZ A-Trane
ON GUIDE TO LOND
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A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. 1, 2 Jun: Roger Waters in concert. 6 Jun: Katy Perry in concert. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4
The enormous former bus depot now presents events as diverse as rap concerts and roller derby and features a cocktail lounge and the Badeschiff Badeschiff, a heated swimming pool floating on the Spree River. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, U Schlesisches Tor. G4
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Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4
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This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. S Schöneberg. C5
Local guides. Worldwide.TM
A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program. www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840. U Schlesisches Tor. G4
Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-and-sound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner Every Tuesday at 1pm, the Philharmonie holds a free, during Stars In Concert, a live 40-minute "lunch concert." performance of legends like Elvis, Come early to secure Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, a spot. and more. www.stars-in-concert. de. Wed–Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map
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Just a few months after being knighted for his services to music by Prince William in London’s Buckingham Palace, former Beatles drummer Ringo Starr is back on stage with his All Star Band, performing in Berlin’s Tempodrom on 16 June. Expect a combination of new songs and old hits encompassing his career with the Fab Four, plus a few tributes to other musical greats such as Santana and Toto. www.tempodrom.de
RINGO STARR: PHOTO BY SCOTT ROBERT RITCHIE.
Lucky Starr INSIDE A ROY CELEBR AL Our 46-p ATION
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ENTERTAINMENT Quasimodo One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de. Kantstr. 12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
SO36 The heart of Kreuzberg’s radical scene. The Dead Kennedys and Die Toten Hosen played here a few times, while today’s program ranges from punk and hard rock concerts to flea markets and tea afternoons. www.so36.de. Oranienstr. 190. T: 030.61401306. U Kottbusser Tor. F4
Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. 16 Jun: Ringo Starr & his All Starr band in concert. 19 Jun: Jeff Beck in concert. 27 Jun: David Byrne in concert. 28 Jun: Eels in concert. www.tempodrom. de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4
quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Neuköllner Oper Berlin’s fourth and recently opened opera house. While the others commit themselves to interpretations of known works, the Neuköllner Oper invents new pieces inspired by everyday life in its own unglamorous neighborhood. From 9 Jun: Affe. A theatrical rendition of a Berlin night. With English surtitles. www.neukoellneroper. de. Karl-Marx-Str. 131 – 133. T: 030 68890777. U-Karl-Marx-Straße. Off map.
Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. 27–30 Jun: The 12 Tenors, Millennium Tour. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3
Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. To 10 Jun: Take it easy! A roadtrip to the roots of rock & pop. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. 8 Jun: Art Garfunkel in concert. www.admiralspalast.de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4
Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where audiences can experience a young genre that mixes acrobatics with music, dance, and visual arts. All month: Finale. www. chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2
Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin MUST SEE With the biggest stage in the world, this is Berlin's most spectacular theater and a must-see acccording to The New York Times. Take in special effects and glitzy Vegas-style live shows. All month: The One Grand Show, with 100 artists and acrobats, is a dreamlike journey through time in search of the one we love. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3
Thursday 5 July 2018, 7.30 pm
First Night
100 Years Deutsches Filmorchester Babelsberg In cooperation with Rundfunk Berlin–Brandenburg (rbb)
– Grand Fireworks Finale –
Friday 6 July 2018, 7.30 pm
Wagner in Light and Fire Bayreuth Flair at Gendarmenmarkt
Saturday 7 July 2018, 7.30 pm
Nessun dorma The Italian Opera Gala
Sunday 8 July 2018, 7.30 pm
Four Pianists – One Concert
Joja Wendt, Sebastian Knauer, Axel Zwingenberger & Martin Tingvall
Monday 9 July 2018, 7.30 pm
Classics of Soul & Funk – Special Guest: Sister Sledge
Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www. www.wheretraveler.com 51
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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE
Freischwimmer (left) and Club der Visionäre (right) on a Kreuzberg canal. Inset, below: A beach bar on the Spree.
River Fun Solveig Steinhardt looks forward to summer to relax by the water. With 197 km of inner-city waterways, there are potentially almost 400 km of riverbanks in Berlin for sitting and sipping beer in summer with friends. Berliners love to spend time by the water, and many of the city’s most popular bars and nightlife venues are situated on the riverbanks and canals of Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain. The most famous of these is Badeschiff (www.arena.berlin, Eichenstr. 4) on the edge of Kreuzberg and Treptow, a floating pool within the river Spree created from an old barge. With its urban views of Friedrichshain, the Oberbaumbrücke and the Molecule Man river sculpture downstream, this has become an icon of Berlin’s urban culture and a great place to have a cocktail while taking in an unusual slice of Berlin life. Just a couple of hundred meters away from the Badeschiff is Club der Visionäre (Am Flutgraben, www.clubdervisionaere. com), a daytime club housed in a modest wooden cottage under the trees, with a lovely terrace over the water. The laid-back
atmosphere and lounge music attract Berlin’s young and informal crowds, while on the other side of the canal, restaurant Freischwimmers caters to slightly more demanding revelers with classy table settings and a well-researched menu. For more energetic evenings, the Yaam club in Friedrichshain (www.yaam.de, An der Schillingbrücke 3) combines chill vibes and pretty views of the water with live reggae, hip hop concerts, and DJ sets with artists flown in from the world over. There’s also a popular beach bar, as well as volleyball and basketball courts for the sports lovers. A short walk away is the Holzmarkt Pampa (Holzmarktstr. 25, www.holzmarkt.com), a sort of nightlife
amusement park and urban community experiment that includes beer gardens, swings over the water, restaurants, clubs, playgrounds, a yoga studio, a gallery, theaters, co-working spaces, and even a day care where you can leave your kids while you are dancing next door. The Holzmarkt project, whose buildings are made of recycled windows and scrap wood, has become a symbol of the fight against Berlin’s wild urban development. And for a spontaneous waterside break between sightseeing and dinner, just buy a beer and pick your spot on the grassy banks of the Landwehr canal on Fraenkelufer and Planufer, just like a real Berliner.
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NIGHTLIFE
BEER A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4
it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. Closed until 31 May 2018. Until then, the 18 aromatic cocktails will be available at The Curtain Club. www.ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T:030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Café am Neuen See and Biergarten
The Grand
A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3
A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4
Ankerklause
Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www.clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4
Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4
Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1
Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3
CASINOS Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines.Daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. MarleneDietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4
WINE & COCKTAILS Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
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Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume
Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4
The Unique Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Sheraton Berlin, Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4
LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3
Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3
Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2
Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafeberlin.de. Kantstr. 148. wT: 030.3138038.
CLUB GUIDE BERGHAIN/PANORAMA BAR The world's most famous techno club – and with the toughest doormen too. Fri 12am–Mon. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. G3
KATER BLAU A top-notch soundsystem driving house and techno beats from the best DJs, and a carnival-like atmosphere. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de. Holzmarktstr. 25. G3
TRESOR Housed in the safe of a department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. F3
WATERGATE A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. Tight doors. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. G4
HOUSE OF WEEKEND Three floors, fabulous views over the city, and the best DJs playing techno and house. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin.de. Alexanderplatz 7. F3
CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS A popular, century-old dance hall. It's salsa on Mon, tango on Tues, swing on Wed, cha cha on Thu, and live ballroom music on Fri+Sat. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2
HORNS & HOOVES An eccentric combination of club, piano bar, cabaret, and circus. www.hornsandhooves.de. Danziger Str. 1. F1
GRETCHEN Funk, hip hop, drum & bass and electronica at this eclectic Kreuzberg club. Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de. Obentrautstr. 19-21. E4
PURO SKY LOUNGE High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting on the roof of the Europa Center. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9-12. C4
THE PEARL A cold beer, anyone? Grab a table at Golgatha Biergarten (Katzbachstr., inside Viktoriapark).
Luxurious club for the poshest crowds, Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. G4
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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION
BERLIN ESSENTIALS
Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.
€
T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof. Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664. Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333. Poison hotline, T: 030.19240. National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117. Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.
BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten
run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.
TIPPING: In taxis, rounding up to the nearest euro is the general practice, and the same applies when ordering a beer at the pub. In nicer bars and in restaurants or cafés, tipping around 10% is customary, more if you feel the service was especially good. While it is fine to leave the tip on the table, local practice is to add the tip to the payment when settling up. For example, if the bill is €13 and you want to tip €2, say “Fifteen” to the server when paying.
TAXIS: All taxis in Berlin are the same color of pale beige and are generally clean, safe, and courteous. The meter begins at €3.90 and increases at €2 per km. After the 7th km, the rate reduces to €1.50 / km. Payments by card may incur a €1.50 surcharge. For short rides of 2 km or less, the flat-rate €5 Kurzstrecke fare pays off. The Kurzstrecke rate only applies to hailed taxi rides (not from taxi stands) and must be requested at the start of the ride.
SAFETY: Berlin is a relatively safe city, but beware of pickpockets in busy areas. When in crowded U-Bahn stations, tourist sites, busy markets, and the like, pay close attention to your belongings and valuables. Alexanderplatz, Kottbusser Tor, Breitscheidplatz, Tauentzienstraße, and around Warschauer Straße station are especially favored by pickpocketers.
Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated
RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.
HEALTH: Few doctors’ practices open on weekends. In urgent cases, call 030 310031 to request a home visit from an emergency doctor, or go to the nearest hospital emergency room. For medication, pharmacies offer rotating nighttime and weekend coverage (“Notdienst”). Visit www.akberlin.de to search for one in your vicinity.
PHONES: The local area code for landline phones is 030. Mobile phones have a wide variety of four-digit dialing codes beginning with 015-, 016-, or 017-. When dialing from a non-German landline or mobile phone, drop the zero before the area code or dialing code and add the German country code: +49 or 0049. Dialing a 0180 number will incur tolls.
GETTING AROUND www.bvg.de.
Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.
U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.
S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.
Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip
from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.
Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633. VBB is a public transportation authority created to reconnect Berlin to the surrounding Brandenburg area after German reunification.It offers services to metropolitan Berlin as well as to the rural communities in the countryside of Brandenburg. www.vbb.de
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Public Transport
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ESSENTIALS Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike. Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:
www.callabike.de.
Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.
MONEY SERVICES Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.
Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440
Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.
Berlin At Your Fingertips Have smartphone, will travel. Download the Where Berlin team’s favorite apps for enhancing any visit to the capital city. All of them are free, and available for both Android and Apple devices. THE BERLIN WALL Made by the Federal Agency for Political Education, this award-winning app brings the Berlin Wall to life with interactive maps, archival photos and audio clips, walking tours, and more.
MY TAXI The rumors are true – Uber is banned in Berlin. Hail a ride using the My Taxi app instead, which also offers the option of making mobile payments.
DICT.CC A thorough, accurate, and easy-to-use German dictionary app that will have you communicating in no time.
FAHRINFO PLUS Get from A to B easily and efficiently with the BVG transit network’s app. Besides route guidance and live departure info, the app also lets you buy mobile tickets to avoid fiddling with clunky ticket machines.
MEETUP Whether you’re in the mood to do yoga, play board games, or just find some new friends, the Meetup.com community in Berlin is lively and warm. A great way to meet locals and fill your social calendar.
DURST When the hour is late and the craving hits for some beer, chocolate, smokes, snacks, or any other life necessities, open this app to find the closest Späti (late-night corner store) in your vicinity.
MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG- 015-2-18.1-1;.
Stand: 7. Mai 2018 © Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) 015-2-18.1-1
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05/02/2018 15:16
WHERE NOW | KORBINIAN LUDWIG HESS
My Berlin
KORBINIAN LUDWIG HESS
www.klh-massschuhe.com
At a time when throwaway fashion is so common, what drew you to an artisanal craft like bespoke shoemaking? Contrary to what people may think, I see my work as very contemporary. Because I believe that the definition of luxury, or the expectations people have of luxury products, has fundamentally changed over the last 10-15 years. Previously, luxury simply meant expensive, but today, people expect these products to tell a story they can stand behind, and to be in their lives for a long time. This is a perspective and mentality I’ve always stood for. What are some of the greatest advantages of bespoke shoes vs. massmarket, ready-to-wear shoes? It’s not only a question of clear advantages like comfort, uniqueness, and longevity, but also how the shoes were made, and by whom, and the whole story around it. Through this, bespoke shoes acquire a personality and become a part of their wearer. We develop a kind of relationship with them over the years. Everyone who owns a pair of bespoke shoes knows what I’m talking about.
If you could only wear one pair of shoes for the rest of your life, which would it be? Probably cowboy boots. They go with everything. You are originally from Munich – what brought you to Berlin? The first time I came to Berlin was because of a girl. I absolutely hated this city in the beginning, but after a couple of years I fell in love with it. When I decided to open my own store, it was clear that it had to be in Berlin. From a shoe point of view, you probably see the best shoes of Germany in Munich. Whereas Berlin, especially in the west, has yet to display much of a sense of taste. I’d like to change that. Your atelier is in Wilmersdorf, a part of the city more about oldschool charm than the much-hyped Berlin coolness. What do you like about that area? I live in the west as well, and am very glad to. I like that you can still find corners where there is still a feel for the old Berlin, when people also had more of a style consciousness. I also like
that time ticks somewhat slower here, and not everyone is running after the latest trends. This is fitting with what I do. When out-of-town friends come to visit, where do you take them? To Pfaueninsel (Peacock Island), Neues Museum to see the impressive architecture, KaDeWe to eat oysters, and Café Einstein Stammhaus (www.cafeeinstein.com). Imagine you had the entire day off to spend however you chose. What would your perfect Berlin day look like? I would get up early and have a swim in Schlachtensee lake. Then a long breakfast with lots of tea, either in Café im Literaturhaus (Fasanenstr. 23) or Manzini (www.manzini.de). Next, I’d head to Chelsea Farmers Club (www. chelseafarmersclub.de) and pick out a new flower for my buttonhole over a few Gin & Tonics. Then to the opera or Philharmonie, depending on who had a good Wagner on the program. I’d finish off the day over wine and sardines at Sardinenbar in Schöneberg (www. sardinen.bar), or wine and pizza at Stranero in Wedding (Liebenwalderstr. 11). Clockwise from top left: Pfaueninsel; Korbinian Ludwig Heß; Sardinen Bar; The Philharmonie; Oysters; Korbinian's handiwork.
OYSTERS, PFAUENINSEL, AND PHILHARMONIE: © ISTOCK. SARDINES: COURTESY OF SARDINEN BAR; KORBINIAN LUDWUG HESS: COURTESY OF KORBINIAN LUDWIG HESS.
SHOEMAKER Bavarian-born, Vienna-trained, and now Berlin-based shoemaker Korbinian Ludwig Heß will make you rethink what you put on your feet. All of his bespoke creations are made with impeccable craftsmanship, using only traditional tools and machinery. Read more about his west-end shoemaking atelier on page XY, and follow him on Instagram at @korbinian.ludwig.hess for gorgeous shoe inspiration.
58 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2018
WB JUNE MY BERLIN.indd 58
17/05/2018 12:28
S ´ N I L R E B BEST BITE
DISCOVE R N ATURE ’S GR E AT A D V E N T U R E S IN GE R M A NY ’ S LARGE ST N AT U R A L HI STORY M U S E U M OPENING HOURS Tuesday – Friday Weekend, Public Holidays
09.30 – 18.00 hrs 10.00 – 18.00 hrs
HOW TO GET HERE Invalidenstraße 43 | 10115 Berlin U6 / M5 / M8 / M10 / 12 Naturkundemuseum
M US E UMF U E R NATURK UNDE.BERLIN /mfnberlin
WB MUSEUM FUR NATURKUNDE.indd 1
10/05/2018 11:33
BEST OF SHOPPING MORE THAN 300 SHOPS
PHOTO: CALZEDONIA
DELICIOUS FOOD HALL
MALL OF BERLIN 47 Where Juni 2018-300418-schu.indd 1 WBLP-Anzeige MALL OF BERLIN.indd 1
03.05.18 15:55 10/05/2018 11:35