Where Magazine Berlin Jan 2019 by Morris Media Network

BERLIN CITY GUIDE Â®

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

WHERETRAVELER.COM

JANUARY 2019

AN EXPLOSION OF EVENTS A winter filled with art, music, and dance

SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS WB JAN COVER USE.indd 1

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„Las Vegas in Berlin!“

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Berlin

CONTENTS

1.19 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

7 Editor’s Note

8 Hot Dates

SHOPPING

Forget about tacky souvenirs – here are five trendy stores not to be missed.

Highlights of the month, including acrobatics, Green Week, and Morricone masterpieces.

SIGHTSEEING

Step into the magical world of Harry Potter.

8 12

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

DINING

Israeli culinary influences, just an U-Bahn ride away.

18 Ask The Concierge

Berlin's concierges share their secrets.

Wintertime is movie time! Options for nonGerman speakers.

58 My Berlin

Directions to discrete cocktail bars around town.

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BY THE WHERE TEAM

Start the new year with added dazzle.

25 All That Glitters

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BY JOE STANGE

BY SERENE TSENG

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SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

The corner bar is as much a part of the city's DNA as currywurst.

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nion Ben-Gur Str tr. tr.

A winter filled with art, music, and dance

Penetrating photography at C/O Berlin.

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16 Drink Local

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BY HILDA HOY

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Sidestep the main tourist attractions. These lesserknown sites tell a different Berlin story.

38 The Dark Corners of the Gallery

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12 The Next Level

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JANUARY 2019

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Where Now

ESSENTIALS

For transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

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BERLIN CITY GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE

Tilla Gab -Durieux Linkk riele ri -P -Ter Köötth sttr. erggit-ark r heen neer Prom S r. St .

Tim Müller Recommendations and insights from a true connoisseur of all things boozy.

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

ENTERTAINMENT

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TANZTAGE: @ KATARZYNA SZUGAJEW; BEER AND HORSES: © ISTOCK; NECKLACE BY MARC CAIN; MUSEUM BARBERINI: COURTESY OF MUSEUM BARBERINI; BOTTLES: COURTESY OF DEUTSCHE SPIRITUOSEN MANUFAKTUR.

Berlin has more museums than rainy days – check out the latest exhibtions.

B Mu

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New Year’s Resolution no. 1: exercise more. Check. Porsche Drive. Get your own kind of work out and take a sports car for a spin. Visit us at www.porsche.de/drive to reserve your dream Porsche. Or do it in person at one of our Porsche Drive locations in Berlin, Stuttgart, Sylt or Rotkreuz (Switzerland).

Fuel consumption (in l/100km) urban 12.9–10.7 · extra urban 7.3–6.9 · combined 9.4–8.3; CO₂ emissions combined 212–188g/km

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YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

Tempelhof Airport Building Guided Tours

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6 W H E R E B E R L I N I J A N UA R Y 2019

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

Warming Up Welcome to the coldest month of the year. The holidays are over, the new year resolution craze has come to an end (wait, what were mine?) and it looks like all we’re left with is grey skies, low temperatures, and maybe snow if we are lucky. But let's not be too pessimistic. This is Berlin after all, and there’s lots of indoor fun to be had! One of my favorite things to do come winter is relaxing in hot water, just like Jean-Paul Marat, the French Revolutionary who spent most of his late life in his bathtub due to a skin condition (and was murdered in it too). While I spend slightly less time in tubs than Marat did, I do have a tradition of visiting at least one or two spas every January. My favorite two are out of town: Bad Saarow, about 40 km east of Berlin, consists of a series of hot pools (35°C/95°F) with entertaining features such as sprinklers and stream tunnels, as well as a color-therapy floating tub. If you have kids in tow, however, Spreewelten might be more appropriate. This small water park is about half an hour away by car, and in addition to hot pools, a wave pool, a salty Roman bath, saunas, and a heated outdoor area, it also lets you swim with real penguins! (Note to ornitophobics: no need to worry – there's a glass separation between you and them.)

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTICK/THINKSTOCK.

Stay warm!

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

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HOT

DATES

January is an incredible month to be in Berlin. From dance shows to digital festivals and an agriculture fair, this month is filled with exciting events.

DAYS OF DANCE FROM WEDNESDAY

They say dance is the hidden language of the soul. For more than 25 years, Tanztage, the city's festival of contemporary dance, has brought up-and-coming choreographers and dancers to Berlin for 11 days of performances, talk shows, and parties. Hosted by the historic Sophiensaele, the dynamic festival follows an interdisciplinary approach, blurring the boundaries between dance, visual art, music, and performance. Pop-cultural references and genres such as striptease and breakdance are part of the festival too. www.sophiensaele.com

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

INTERNATIONAL GREEN WEEK

FROM FRIDAY

EVITA FROM WEDNESDAY

The unprecedented rise of Argentine presidential spouse Eva Perón, a country girl who became the icon of an entire nation, inspired Andrew Lloyd Webber and Tim Rice to create this grandiose musical. The multiaward-winning classic continues to move audiences with its touching story and powerful, heartfelt ballads such as the famous Don't Cry For Me Argentina. Returning this time with a star cast from London’s West End at the Admiralspalast. www.mehr.de

Berlin goes green this month! Grüne Woche is considered the world’s biggest fair for the food, agriculture, and horticultural industries. However, the event is not just for trade professionals. During the 10 days, stop by to learn about where our food comes from and sample new products. Organic farming and renewable resources are always a focus, and Finland is this year’s partner country. And if you're in town with kids, do not miss the fair's equestrian event, Hippologica. www.gruenewoche.de

FEUERWERK DER TURNKUNST SUNDAY

This is the most successful acrobatics and gymnastics show across Europe! Each year it’s something different, and their latest show, Connected, portrays today’s interconnected and digital world. Expect a jaw-dropping mix of stunts, slapstick comedy, and perfectly timed synchronicity, performed by over 50 world-class artists. For one day only at the Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de

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JANUARY

ENNIO MORRICONE MONDAY

Counting over 500 film scores, including Sergio Leone’s westerns, 100 classical works, and myriad awards, Morricone is without question one of the greatest composers of our time. To celebrate his 90th birthday, this year he will be leading an ensemble of 200 musicians as part of his Farewell Tour, enchanting audiences for one of the last times with masterpieces spanning a decades-long career. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de

TRANSMEDIALE FROM THURSDAY

What moves you? This is the key question at this year’s four-daylong festival for media art and digital culture, focusing on how feelings get turned into objects of technological design and on the role of emotions and empathy in technological development. The festival aims for a high level of audience engagement via workshops and “study circles,” in addition to an exhibition, live performances, and a film and video program. The main festival venue is Haus der Kulturen der Welt. www.transmediale.de

CAVALLUNA FROM SATURDAY

A magical kind of family entertainment! Embedded in a mesmerizing story about a world where wishes come true, popular horse show Cavalluna – Welt der Fantasie combines captivating acrobatics and classic dressage perfection with dreamlike music and spectacular lighting effects. Performing for two consecutive days at the Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin. www.mercedes-benzarena-berlin.de 10 W H E R E B E R L I N I J A N UA R Y 2019

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HOT DATES

Ring in 2019 with a festive Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester concert at Tempodrom. Shake a leg with Andrej Hermlin and His Swing Dance Orchestra at Konzerthaus. Enjoy a last spin on the ice at Potsdamer Platz's Winterwelt rink, which closes on the 6th. Cheer at the AOK Traditionsmasters indoor football tournament at Max-Schmeling-Halle. Take in the final Bach Christmas Oratorio concert of the season at the Berliner Dom cathedral. Step right up! It's the final day of the Roncalli Christmas Circus at Tempodrom. It's the last week to catch South Korean artist Lee Bul's Crash exhibition at Martin-Gropius-Bau. See Moscow's Russian National Ballet perform The Nutcracker at Admiralspalast. Enjoy an afternoon Espresso Concert at the Konzerthaus – musical "caffeine for the ears." Picasso fans won't want to miss his masterful paintings on exhibit at Museum Berggruen. Admire the famous bust of Nefertiti, beautiful queen of Ancient Egypt, at the Neues Museum. Berlin's own Staatsballett troupe brings the fairytale Hansel & Gretel to life at Staatsoper. Moving medieval poems come to life in Carl Orff's Carmina Burana at the Philharmonie. Catch a movie at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, one of few theaters to play movies in English. Take a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1 pm. Walk on the wild side at Berln's famed zoo, located at the edge of Tiergarten park. Feast on international delicacies at the Street Food Thursday event at Markthalle Neun. The Staatsballett dances La Bayadère, a lesserknown classic by choreographer Marius Petipa. The music & dance of Michael Jackson live on with the Thriller Live show at Verti Music Hall. The whole family will love the thrilling Russian Circus on Ice show at Tempodrom. Composer/conductor Ennio Morricone stops at Mercedes-Benz Arena tonight on his Farewell Tour. The Nutcracker Reloaded at Admiralspalast gives the ballet a hip-hop/breakdancing twist. The Bellini Plus show at Gemäldegalerie gives insight into restoring Renaissanace paintings. Pulsing, rhythmic Japanese drumming is at the heart of the TAO show at Tempodrom. Take a trip to Dahlem's Botanical Garden to warm up in greenhouses of tropical plants. The soulful Cavalluna show at Mercedes-BenzArena plays up the bond between man and horse. Thrilling acrobatics meet skates at the Triumph show at Tempodrom by Russia's Circus on ice. Immerse in cutting-edge music at Experimontag night at Kreuzberg's Madame Claude venue. After a sunset stroll in Tiergarten, warm up by the fire at the park's Café am neuen See. Watch the pros sink shots at the Snooker German Masters tournament at Tempodrom. Head to the Komische Oper for a light-hearted peformance of My Fair Lady.

CAVALLUNA © PRESS OFFICE; EVITA: PHOTO BY PAMELA RAITH; FEUREWERK DER TURNKUNST: © FEUERWERK DER TURNKUNST; GRÜNE WOCHE: COURTESY OF GRÜNE WOCHE; MORRICONE: © MUTHMEDIA GMBH; TANZTAGE: © KATARZYNE SZUGAJEW; TRANSMEDIALE: COURTESY OF TRANSMEDIALE.

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

For more ideas, see our Entertainment section.

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Above: Museum Barberini in Potsdam; This photo: A painting by Monet, from the museum’s collection.

THE

LEVEL P

erhaps you’ve been to Berlin once or twice already. Or maybe you’re simply the type who prefers to seek out the lesser-known spots, who revels in off-the-beaten-track adventures. So skip the Brandenburg Gate, sidestep Museum Island, and give Checkpoint Charlie a pass. These are some lesser-known sites that tell a different story of Berlin than found in the standard guidebooks.

MUSEUM BARBERINI A short train ride away in Berlin’s serene

Go a little deeper and explore Berlin beyond the standard tourist sites, says Hilda Hoy.

suburban neighbor of Potsdam, the Museum Barberini (Humboldtstr. 5-6, Potsdam, www.museum-barberini.com) is a rewarding half-day outing for art lovers. The museum was opened in a reconstructed palace in 2017 under the patronage of German software magnate Hasso Plattner, a passionate collector of Impressionist paintings as well as works from contemporary German artists such as Gerhard Richter and Martin Kippenberger. The excellent exhibitions revolve around Plattner’s collection, such as the current retrospective on French Neo-Impressionist

painter Henri-Edmond Cross and the exhibition From Expressionism to Art Informel, exploring various avant-garde movements at the start of the 20th century.

KINO INTERNATIONAL Going out for a movie in a foreign city is a highly underrated activity. For starters, seeing what makes German audiences laugh can provide some unique cultural insights. What’s more, Berlin has scores of unique, historic theaters, like Friedrichshain’s Kino International (Karl-Marx-Allee 33, www. yorck.de), which will delight any architecture

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MUSEUM BARBERINI: COURTESY OF MUSEUM BARBERINI; CLAUDE MONET: UNDER THE POPLARS, 1887, PRIVATE COLLECTION; STONE BREWING: PHOTO BY STEFAN HAEHNEL, COURTESY OF STONE BREWING; URBAN DESIGN FURNITURE: © ISTOCK; ALLIED MUSEUM: COURTESY OF ALLIED MUSEUM.

Above and left: The Kino International on Karl-Marx-Allee; Photos below: A “candy bomber” airplane from used in the 1948 Airlift, and an Army tunnel used in the Cold War, both on display at the Allied Museum.

enthusiast with its distinctively retro design inside and out. First opened in 1963, the cinema was the highlight of East Berlin’s grand Karl-Marx-Allee boulevard and hosted many premieres for the city’s political and cultural elite back in the day. Now part of the Yorck Kino chain, the cinema hosts numerous OmU screenings (original language, i.e. not dubbed into German). The weekly Mongay event is a highlight, screening LGBT films from around the world. Come early to enjoy drinks and boulevard views in the bar.

URBAN INDUSTRIAL What better souvenir than a literal piece of Berlin? Hidden away in a former ballroom and cabaret theater just off Hermannplatz, Urban Industrial (Hasenheide 13, www. urban-industrial.de) specializes in objects from design eras past, such as original Bauhaus chairs, Art Deco interior items, or post-industrial relics. As much a museum as it is a shop, the location alone will stun every history buff into incredulous silence. Even if www.wheretraveler.com 13

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WHERE NOW | DIG DEEPER Left and below: Stone Brewing; A design teapot from the Museum der Dinge; Below left: industrial design furniture.

you’re stumped for how to lug the old military ammunition boxes, rows of theater seats, factory clocks, or Art Deco chandeliers home, it’s worth a visit to gawk alone.

how industrialized production – and the objects we need, want, or use – have affected how we are as humans.

RATSKELLER SCHÖNEBERG

Nobody would argue that Berlin isn’t a beer town – beer has been brewed here for probably as long as the city has existed. But when it comes to diving deeper into this beer culture, the options are limited, as most breweries are closed to the public. Stone Brewing (Im Marienpark 23, www. stonebrewing.eu) is one exception, welcoming visitors to explore their sprawling facilities and discover more about the art of craft brewing on guided tours – including tastings, of course. After the tour, revive and replenish at the brewery’s restaurant, serving tasty meals and snacks daily plus a brunch buffet on the weekends. Make it a boozy brunch with a bottomless glass of Stone’s own Berliner Weisse beer.

It arguably doesn’t get any more “Berlin” than this. Century-old ambience: check. Stick-to-your-ribs, meat-and-potato fare: check. Rubbing elbows with that unique species that is the German bureaucrat: check. The Ratskeller canteen in the lower level of the Rathaus Schöneberg city hall is a true classic (John-F.-Kennedy-Platz 1, www. gerresheim-berlin.de). The 1914 interior is so evocative, many scenes of the recent historical-drama TV hit, Babylon Berlin, were filmed here. In addition to standard canteen fare like lentil-sausage stew and roast pork with mashed potatoes, the daily lunch menu also includes vegetarian and even vegan options. The rest of the building has stories to tell as well: JFK delivered his famed “Ich bin ein Berliner” speech out front in 1963, and one wing hosts the excellent Wir waren Nachbarn exhibition, detailing the fates of Schöneberg’s Jewish population.

MUSEUM DER DINGE The “Museum of Things” (Oranienstr. 25, www.museumderdinge.org) has many, many things in its delightfully quirky collection. More than a mere museum, this place is a treasure trove of thousands of objects both from the start of the 20th century until the present day: toys, shaving brushes, tobacco boxes, alarm clocks, you name it. Meticulously curated in glass-fronted display cabinets according to material, color, shape, era, or function, the undercurrent running through the myriad exhibits is the story of

STONE BREWING

ALLIED MUSEUM Even though the Allied occupation dramatically altered the course of Berlin’s 20th-century history, this free museum in the west-end corner of the city tends to be overlooked. The Allied Museum (Clayallee 135, www.alliiertenmuseum.de) tells the story of how the Allied military presence from 1945-1994 left its imprint on the city. Situated in the former American sector of West Berlin, the premises include a former U.S. Army cinema where soldiers could watch the latest Hollywood hits. Visitors can discover a British RAF plane used in the 1948 Berlin Airlift, the dining car of a French military train, and a 1953 spy tunnel built to tap Soviet communication lines in East Berlin.

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Blooming City Creative – Colorful – Natural

18 – 27 January 2019

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Drink Like the Berlin’s corner bars are more than bars: They’re cultural cornerstones. Here are Joe Stange’s picks.

Locals

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WHERE NOW | CORNER BARS

“Great pubs and dive bars don’t come out of the box in their final form”

TIERGARTENQUELLE CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER NICO; ZUR_QUELLE_PUB CC BY-SA 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER STEPHEN J MASONS PHOTOGRAPHY; LARGE PHOTO AND PHOTO IN CIRCLE: © ISTOCK.

n Berlin, the Eckkneipe, or corner bar,is as much a part of the city’s DNA as currywurst stands or late-night Späti shops. These are not slick craft beer houses or cocktail bars, with exposed brick and dangly light bulbs. (Does every hip interior designer read the same glossy magazines?) They are unpretentious bars with drinks at democratic prices, and meanwhile you get a lot more atmosphere for your euro. One thing about Eckkneipen is that they have patina. The Dutch would call it “brownness” from wood and years of smoke – and layers of knick-knacks allowed to evolve over time. Great pubs and dive bars don’t come out of the box in their final form. They take years of nurturing and maturation. An idiosyncrasy of Berlin’s neighborhood bars is that many still allow smoking; it’s debatable how many would stay open if they didn’t. The beers – there will be two or three taps – are usually from local giant Berliner-Kindl-Schultheiss, and they ought to be cheap. A sign out front is likely to say that under-18s are not allowed. By all means pay one of these bars a visit if you want to participate in a local ritual. We’ve picked a few favorites that not only have character and typical atmosphere but also non-smoking areas, better beers, and

sometimes food—a combination that can be hard to find. Dicke Wirtin (Carmerstr. 9, www. dicke-wirtin.de) in Charlottenburg is popular with locals as well as travelers for its traditional cooking and warm, kitschy decor; the Gemütlichkeit (coziness) is palpable. Munch on pickled eggs or beef liver, washed down with draught Schneider Weisse. For smokers who don’t need food, its little sister Kleine Wirtin (www.kleine-wirtin.de, Savignyplatz 6) is just around the corner. Tiergartenquelle (Bachstr., S-Bahnbogen 482), also in Charlottenburg, is a West Berlin classic beneath the railway arches, just north of Tiergarten S-Bahn. The local Lemke microbrewery now runs the pub and offers all its own beers, from pils to imperial stout via IPA. Grub includes huge hearty plates of cheese Spätzle noodles. Strassenbahn (Laubacher Str. 29) in Friedenau is a four-decades-old institution that is also a collective – all staff get equal pay, and proceeds go to social projects. It also happens to be a really good pub run by friendly people, with a popular terrace. There is a smoking room but most of the pub is nonsmoking, and there is good cooking at

low prices. Eight taps include a Franconian pils and rich dark Czech lager, among other beers not often seen in Berlin. Hackbarth’s (Auguststr. 49a) is a North Mitte mainstay, a laid-back neighborhood watering hole just south of the Rosenthaler Platz U-Bahn station, or else 600 metres north of Hackescher Markt. The dominating feature is a sharply angled brass bar, over which are served classically moulded Bavarian beers, like Tegernseer Hell, not often spotted in Berlin. The bar also does breakfast and snacks, and is non-smoking until the evening. Enddorn (Belforter Str. 27) in Prenzlauer Berg is a cozy, old-fashioned pub in a neighborhood full of not-so-cozy new-fashioned ones. It boasts lots of exposed brick, a beautifully tiled bar, and beers from the local Rollberg brewery. It allows smoking inside except in summer, when all the smokers move to the terrace. Victoria Stadler (Neue Bahnhofstr. 7B) falls somewhere between punk-rock bar and old-school pub, occupying a busy corner in hip Friedrichshain. There is good music and a smoking room, while the attraction for beer aficionados is the pub’s slavish dedication to the excellent Brauerei Schönram. Rough and edgy but welcoming enough.

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WHERE NOW | CONCIERGE

Ask the

TSCHOBAN FOUNDATION: © ROLAND HALBE; ANNA BLUME: COURTESY OF ANNA BLUME; BIKINI BERLIN: COURTESY OF BIKINI BERLIN; MAUERPARK AND HORSES: © ISTOCK.

CONCIERGE

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierges. We've collected some of their best insider tips. www.lcdg.org

"I love the Pfefferberg Areal. It is the former location of one of the oldest breweries in Berlin, and it now houses a theater, an art gallery, the Museum of Architectural Drawings (www.tchoban-foundation.de), and restaurants. But I also really like the the city marina and Hafenküche restaurants in the Rummelsburger bay, where you can dine or enjoy a stress-free waterside tour of the city. In the evening, I enjoy going to see a movie at the Babylon cinema at Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, which on occasion features silent film concerts." – Bernd Roehner, Hilton Berlin "I can't resist the flair of a horse race, either at the Trabrennbahn Mariendorf or Rennbahn Hoppegarten. The thrill of the beautiful horses running is indescribable." – Nicolai Laaser, Sofitel Berlin Gendarmenmarkt "I always recommend he Berliner Unterwelten tours and a guided tour of the Tempelhof Airport." – Dejan Urosev, Hotel Palace Berlin "I mostly enjoy strolling around Hackescher Markt and its hidden shopping streets, like Mulackstraße or Münzstraße. I also love the concept at Bikini Berlin: The little “box shops” on the ground floor change regularly, so you can always find something different and discover new labels." – Linda Urban, Waldorf Astoria

"I really like the bars and restaurants on Weserstraße in Neukölln. One of my favorites is Beuster (Weserstr. 32)." – André Lindner, The Westin Grand "A unique opportunity to see a different side of Berlin is at Boheme Sauvage. You’ll swing back to the Berlin of the Golden Twenties, with candy girls, absinthe bar, and roulette table. Original dress is compulsory." – Stefanie Bäslack, Hotel Zoo Berlin "My perfect day begins with a long breakfast at Café Anna Blume on Kollwitzplatz or nearby Elbspeicher B (www.elbspeicherb. de), followed by a walk through Mauerpark. The great mix of people and the karaoke show create a unique atmosphere. Not far from Mauerpark is Konnopke's Imbiss (www. konnopke-imbiss.de), in my opinion the best Currywurst in the city. In the West, my tour includes Italian restaurant Osteria Ribaltone (www.ribaltone.de) on Viktoria-Luise-Platz." – Julian Darenberg, The Regent Berlin

YOUR CONCIERGE IS HAPPY TO HELP!

Talk to your concierge if you need assistance with restaurant reservations, concert tickets, spa services, booking transportation, shipping goods home, or simply to ask for recommendations.

From top to bottom: The Tschoban Foundation; Bikini Berlin; a horse race; karaoke at Mauerpark.

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just 60 km from Berlin

Take a break

Beach, water, palm trees – 26°C every day and fantastic accommodation

The Tropical Islands Resort A unique tropical holiday resort – offering fun and relaxation all year round!

Just off the A13, Staakow exit Brand Tropical Islands railway station free shuttle bus

www.tropical-islands.de/en

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE Taschen Store

Lunettes Selection

Sabrina Dehoff

Zeha

Shopping Standards

Kollwitz45

With so little time to shop, Annabelle Mallia heads straight to her favorite Berlin stores. One of the best things about traveling, besides learning about different cultures of course, is taking home that unique purchase to show off to your friends. But don't waste precious sightseeing time hunting around. Here are five stores not be missed: RUNNING EAST While German footwear brands Adidas and Puma are practically household names the world over, Zeha is almost unknown outside of its homeland. The brand was the footwear of choice for fashionable Berliners in the Golden Twenties, and today Zeha is best known for the distinctive double-striped sneakers that became popular during the days of the Wall as the footwear of East German Olympic athletes. Whether out of a sense of style or of nostalgia, Zeha is experiencing a resurgence in popularity. Stores in Kreuzberg, Schöneberg, and Prenzlauer Berg. T: 030 44034607. www.zeha-berlin.de FOR TOPEND BOOKWORMS The illuminated bookshelves at Taschen

perfectly offset the grey Berlin skies. The company was founded in the 1980s in Cologne, when a young man named Benedikt Taschen first published his comic collection. His company soon became a pioneer in divulging lesser-known art, and became synonymous with art books and calendars. Taschen has always found inspiration from great artists such as Annie Leibovitz, Marc Newson, and David Bowie, and is now renowned for publishing both mainstream books, covering every topic from architecture to travel, as well as more controversial art. Schlüterstraße 39. T: 030 88720929. www.taschen.com WINNING BY A NOSE Historic perfume factory Harry Lehmann still mixes fragrances by hand from a variety of 50 scents, continuing a 90-year-long tradition and reportedly having been a favorite of Marlene Dietrich’s. The fragrances are kept in big glass jars, then siphoned into smaller bottles upon request, and sold by weight. Kantstr. 106. T: 030 3243582. www. parfum-individual.de

BRIGHT EYES No matter which decade of vintage eyewear you’re in the market for, Lunettes Selection has it. They offer a complete history of fashionable eyewear starting with the 1900s, from ‘50s horn-rimmed and cat-eye frames to ‘80s nerd-glasses. All never-been-worn original glasses, sourced from high-quality manufacturers around the globe. Torstr. 172. T: 030.20215216. www.lunettes-selection.de TWINKLE, TWINKLE After studying fashion design in Berlin, Sabrina Dehoff worked for labels like Guy Laroche, Lanvin, and Moschino before founding her own self-named jewelry label in 2005. Her pieces are definitely not shy, incorporating everything from neon colors to chunky crystals, bold gem settings to ultra-feminine motifs like bows. The most enduring Dehoff classic is her cord bracelet, which has decorated the wrists of many a Berliner trendsetter. Torstr. 175. www.sabrinadehoff.de

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SHOPPING

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57. OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights.

in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

Galeria Kaufhof

The biggest and oldest department store in continental Europe sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

One of the biggest department stores in Germany, this flagship of a national chain features 36,000 sq. m. of shopping across six floors. With trendsetting global fashion labels and footwear, sporting, lifestyle, and beauty brands, plus a children's world and expansive gourmet section, there's truly something for everyone – right in the heart of the city. www.kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78.

KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Westens)

Mall of Berlin 300 shops on four floors, a gym, and pedestrian areas define the Mall of Berlin at Leipziger Platz – a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist highlights. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes to accessories and design objects. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular

Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS

OPPOSITE PAGE: COURTESY OF ZEHA, TASCHEN, LUNETTES, SABRINA DEHOFF; THIS PAGE: COURTESY OF BISCUIT CHINA.

Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN combines shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin's west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace. But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frequently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin.de.Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton

All Fired Up Pottery may be one of the most ancient of human inventions, dating back more than 20,000 years, but that certainly doesn't make it a fusty, old-fashioned craft – far from it! Today's contemporary artists and artisans continue finding new ways to make this multifaceted medium as fresh and beautiful as ever. Discover a stunning and very covetable selection at Prenzlauer Berg's Biscuit China, a small but carefully curated shop stocked with fine ceramic, porcelain, and glass wares. Sourced from independent studios near and far, the shop's vases, cups, dishes, pots, decorative objects, and even jewelry range in style from traditional to quirky to avant-garde. Surprising, playful, and whimsical forms are combined with eyecatching colors and innovative glazing techniques to create contemporary and highly unique pieces that will beautify any table. Not sure how to get your delicate purchases back home? Order online and let the Biscuit China web shop take care of the shipping. Oderberger Str. 3. T: 030 49952054. www.biscuitchina.com

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SHOPPING garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31. T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Berlin is a city full of creative designers and interesting products, but Fundamental Berlin stands out from the crowd. Founded by architects Gunnar Rönsch and Stephen K. Molloyis, this label creates furniture and homewares inspired by the mathematics of nature. Playing with patterns and forms that occur in the natural world, they develop their designs according to a five-point manifesto, essentially: follow patterns, honor your mistakes, order is hierarchy, use repetition, and mend towards perfection. Results include the Atlas table, the cream of their collection, made by inlaying darker wooden pyramids into a latticework of oak cubes to achieve an amazing geometric surface. Rönsch and Molloyis work with only natural materials and small factories, ranging from a facility for the disabled here in Berlin to traditional stone crafts in Pakistan – and their objects are said to return a child’s wonder to adult eyes. Ackerstr. 1A. T: 030 20076424. www.fundamental.berlin

meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

FASHION Annette Görtz Inspired by geometric lines and the use of "non-colors" such as black, beige, white, and gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines comfort with understated elegance. www.annettegoertzcom. T: 030 20074613. Markgrafenstr. 42. U Stadtmitte. E3

Beatrice von Tresckow Sumptuous, elegant, somewhat extravagant. Beatrice Von Tresckow women's clothes are lively and colorful, an eye-catching addition to any wardrobe. www.beatricevontresckow.com, Leibnizstr. 60. T: 030 308318. U Adenauer Platz. C4

Be Edgy With rule-breaking elements and a timeless soul, this Berlin-born fashion label makes perfectly cut leather jackets and a variety of accessories meant for rebellious and cheeky boys and girls.

www.be.edgy.de. Bleibtreustr. 27. T: 0176.61137540. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Blue Tomato No matter if you're cruising on snow, water, or asphalt, this sports store has everything a rider’s heart desires. From snowboards, skateboards, and surfboards to the finest selection of streetwear, sneakers, and accessories from top brands like Burton, Volcom and Vans, this is a real boarder's paradise. www.blue-tomato.com. Nürnberger Str. 13. T: 030.21966647. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

By Anne By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or

The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Gobi Cashmere The first European store of this luxury Mongolian cashmere manufacturer opened in December 2016 to bring organic, high-quality cashmere fashion and fabrics produced in Asia to the highest standards. www.shop-gobi.com/en/. Knesebeckstr. 30. T: 030.22466513. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Goldsteg Designer Outlet This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8. T: 030 51307933. S Savignyplatz. B4

Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations. T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

Marina Rinaldi Born inside the Max Mara fashion group in 1980, this label stocks a collection of garments and accessories for the curvier woman and represents a turning point in the history of women’s apparel. www.marinarinaldi.com. Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations). T: 030.88554046. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Max Mara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com. Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations). T: 030.8852545.U Adenauerplatz. B4

Mientus One of the largest providers of exclusive fashion in Germany. Four levels housing collections from top international designers like Dolce & Gabbana, Moncler, and Gucci. www.mientus.com. Wilmersdorfer Str. 73. T: 030.3239077. U Wilmersdorfer Straße, S Charlottenburg. B4

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept

COURTESY OF FUNDAMENTAL.

The Beauty Of Math

Cotélac

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SHOPPING store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3

T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. F2

Zalando Outlet

New Era Flagship Store

The popular online shopping fashion market has a large outlet store in Berlin, featuring 1000 square meters of fashion and accessories from the world's top brands, sold at even lower prices. www.zalando.de. Köpenicker Str. 20. T: 0800.3300996. U Schlesiches Tor. G4

Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www.neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. Hackescher Markt. F2

SHOES & ACCESSORIES Boots & Shoes

With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 was based on Talbot Runhof a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Märtens. Check out many designs and Runhof launched their label in colors of the famous boots at Boots Munich but have since gone global, & Shoes, from the classic 1460 branching out from glamorous model, to shiny blue, or floral print. evening gowns into everyday Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and The Ku'damm was West outfits and accessories. Discover accessories by many other brands Berlin's most important the comprehensive range of round off the offering. shopping strip during dresses, separates, and knitwear, www.boots-and-shoes.de. the Cold War. plus shoes and accessories in their Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50. Charlottenburg boutique. T: 030.92031876. S + U Zoologischer A brand hallmark is the complex, precise Garten. C4 Dircksenstr. 49. cuts and unusual seam placement used to T: 0800.2070700.S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 create feminine, flattering silhouettes. Falke Flagship Store Schlüterstr. 50. This legwear shop caters to both men and T: 030 23363170. www.talbotrunhof.com. women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, U Uhlandstraße, S Savignyplatz. B4 knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs Trüffelschwein warm. They also have a good selection of sports The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed – he accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ simply looks good, with a collection of small niche socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. brands from London, Paris, and New York. T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; www.trueffelschweinberlin.com. Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030.20647995. T: 030.70221225. U Mohrenstraße. E3 U Weinmeisterstr. F2

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3

Michael Kors

The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors.com. Kurfürstendamm 219.

Pikolinos Designed with traditional artisan craftsmanship and the latest in comfort footwear technology, this shoe brand offers classic options for everyday wear, inspired by its Spanish roots and the Mediterranean lifestyle. www.pikolinos.com. Kurfürstendamm 216. Uhlandstraße. C4

Unützer Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www.unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10. T: 030.88916710. U Uhlandstraße. C4

JEWELRY & WATCHES Aris Diamond Since 1906, ARIS has been specializing in diamond jewelry, delivering everything from pendants, necklaces, and earrings, to fabulous engagement rings. Got a special occasion coming up? Check up their new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. www.arisdiamond.com.www.mallofberlin. de. Leipziger Platz 12.U Mohrenstraße. E3

Boutique Cartier Founded in Paris in 1847, Cartier is one of the world’s most esteemed designers of luxury jewelry and watches, with a long history of sales to royalty and celebrities. www.cartier.de. Kurfürstendamm 188–189. T: 030.8867060. U Uhlandstraße, U Adenauerplatz. B4

Wellensteyn

COURTESY OF HUTSALON.

Founded in Germany 60 years ago as a brand for workers, Wellensteyn is now a high-class label for quality technical jackets that are also stylish, as well as other items for the outdoor life. www.wellensteyn.com. Europa Center. Tauentzienstr. 9-, 12. T: 030.23927186. U Kurfürstendamm. C4. Grunerstr. 20. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 T: 030.27583926. Friedrichstr. 58. T: 40744747. U Stadtmitte. E3

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct

Top it off with a hat from Hut Salon (Mommsenstraße 69). www.wheretraveler.com 23

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SHOPPING

3 6

glitters ALL THAT

Add dazzle to your wardrobe and sparkle all day long.

1. Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin. Voßstr. 35. 2. Liebeskind, Mall of Berlin. Voßstr. 35. 3. MCM, Kurfürstendamm 186. 4. Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin. Voßstr. 35. 5. Unützer, Giesebrechtstr. 10. 6. GUESS, Mall of Berlin. Voßstr. 35. 7. Mes Demoiselles, Hotel Paris, Mulackstr. 4. 8. Talbot Runhof, Schlüterstraße 50.

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ellen eisemann

Fashion Week Berlin New Collection Autumn/Winter 2019/20 Showroom Ellen Eisemann 15. - 18. January 2019 10:00 am - 08:00 pm Monumentenstr. 33-34 10829 Berlin B2B please contact info@ellen-eisemann.com

New arrivals Spring/Summer 2019 Shops in Berlin Meyer & Nehls Bleibtreustr. 13 10623 Berlin

Hirschmann Mode GĂźntzelstr. 43 14057 Berlin

Tatem

Oranienburger Str. 32 10117 Berlin Zeltinger Platz 1a 13505 Berlin Stargarder Str. 78 10437 Berlin

Belushis

Baseler Str. 1 12205 Berlin

Leder Art

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SHOPPING Bucherer With a dedicated Rolex and Patek Philippe corner, and a wide range of other prestigious watch brands, as well as exclusive jewelry creations, the Bucherer store provides customers with first-class service and a unique shopping experience. www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr.176-179. T: 030.2041049. U Französische Straße E3; Kurfürstendamm 45. T: 030.8804030. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Bodo Dilg Goldschmiede A master in the jewelry field, Bodo Dilg creates unique pieces of contemporary jewelry using gold and precious stones against a backdrop of historical stucco and cement tiles. An essential stop for soon to wed partners. www.bodo-dilg.de. Grolmanstr. 30/31. T: 030 88675355. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Juwelier Leicht im Hotel Adlon

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

ROLEX Boutique

Babor

One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48. T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3

Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize

Schmelter Juwelen Pearls and diamonds define this jewelry store near the Ku’damm. Have a look at the marvelous

PING SPE P C HO

THE SHOPAHOLIC

THE BARGAIN HUNTER

THE DESIGN GURU

On Sundays, the Mauerpark flea market teems with bargain hunters. The small design and vintage shops on the adjoining Oderberger Straße, meanwhile, are open every other day of the week. U Eberswalder Straße

Numerous labels cluster around Hackescher Markt. Around nearby Mulackstraße is where many local designers have their boutiques and ateliers. S Hackescher Markt

Flanked by a towering department store, shopping mall, and multi-storey electronics store, Alexanderplatz attracts masses of shoppers with its big labels and chains. S+U Alexanderplatz

WHERE TO SHOP.

With a total of four shopping malls, including the recently opened Boulevard Berlin, one of the largest urban malls in the country, this street in the ity’s southwest is a haven city’s for shopping fans. U Schloßstraße

THE BROWSER Bergmannstraße is made for browsing, with plentiful fashion, home, and lifestyle shops interspersed with cafés for taking a break. Visit Marheinekeplatz market hall for gourmet gift ideas. U Mehringdamm

THE LUXURY SHOPPER

THE INDIVIDUAL

This Kastanienallee artery leading from Mitte into Prenzlauer Berg is lined with small, independent shops where you’ll discover home décor, design objects, unique souvenirs, and pieces from small fashion labels. U Rosenthaler Platz

Tell us who you are, we'll tell you

THE ACTIVE HOPPER SHOPPER

collection of Schoeffel pearl colliers, many of which are made with exquisite Tahitian pearls. www.schmelter-juwelen.de. Uhlandstr. 167-168. T: 030.8815671. U Uhlandstraße. B/C4

This jewelry shop has its own manufactory and also

carries luxurious brands like Omega, Glashütte Original, and more. Check out Leicht’s marvelous creations, each uniquely manufactured with gold and precious stones. www.leicht-jewellery.com. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2290212. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

THE MULTI – TASKER Combine sightseeing with premium shopping along Friedrichstraße. Luxury department stores and malls such as Galeries Lafayette and Mall of Berlin rub elbows with high-end boutiques and key sites like the Brandenburg Gate, Gendarmenmarkt, and Checkpoint Charlie. S+U Friedrichstraße

Presided over by the venerable KaDeWe department store, Kurfürstendamm and Tauentzienstraße have long been one of Berlin’s major luxury shopping strips. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz

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Jenna Rose Robbins curated a soundtrack for a visit to the city, consisting of songs that both celebrate and best encapsulate the spirit of Berlin at different times in its history. Berlin has a long-standing reputation for fostering musical creativity. The German capital has been heralded in songs spanning nearly every genre, and has been the inspiration behind some classics. BERLINER LUFT 1899 Considered the city’s “unofficial anthem,” Paul Lincke’s sprightly march is still often used as an encore by the Berlin Philharmonic orchestra. The song, whose title means “Berlin Air,” is best enjoyed while walking along the street named after the composer, which runs along the Landwehr Canal in Kreuzberg. THERE'LL BE A HOT TIME IN THE TOWN OF BERLIN 1943 Although Bing Crosby and the Andrews Sisters recorded the original version, Frank Sinatra gets the credit for making it popular, enlisting his signature croon to bring even further emotion to a song already ripe with patriotism: “When the Yanks go marching in, I want to be there, boy, spread some joy, when they take old Berlin.“

“HEROES” 1977 Although written and sung by a Brit, David Bowie’s now-classic might be the "most Berlin" song ever recorded, even when compared to the remainder of the artist’s own “Berlin trilogy” albums. The lyrics describing the lovers kissing by an unnamed wall as gunshots ring out was written by Bowie as he peered out of a Hansa Studios (p. 34) window and spied his music producer enjoying a tryst by the famous landmark. “Heroes” was even featured on the soundtrack for We Children From Bahnhof Zoo, a cult film depicting the darker side of 1970s West Berlin. THE PASSENGER 1977 One of Iggy Pop’s most popular songs, inspired as he rode about town on the S-Bahn, is often interpreted as a metaphor for the punk lifestyle, which was just burgeoning in the divided city. The track was

released on 1977’s Lust For Life, which was also recorded at Hansa and features Bowie on back-up vocals. Try to get this earworm out of your head next time you’re transferring at Potsdamer Platz. HOLIDAYS IN THE SUN 1977 Since it seems every other artist was writing about Berlin this year, the Sex Pistols decided to follow suit, releasing this as a track on their one and only studio album. After getting booted off the island of Jersey, the punk rockers skedaddled to Berlin, which they found to be much more to their liking for a break from their London hometown. Frontman Johnny Rotten declared, “I loved Berlin. I loved the Wall and the insanity of the place.“ ONE 1992 Most any of the songs from U2’s Achtung Baby could have made the cut for this list, but it’s the album’s third track that most fully exemplifies both the city and the mood of the band as they recorded at Hansa. Just as Berliners were trying to find their way in a reunited country, U2’s members were experiencing their own discord, with drummer Larry Mullen, Jr. even stating he thought “this might be the end” for the band. Lyrics such as

“We're one, but we're not the same, we get to carry each other“ refer as much to the sentiments of the band members for each other as those of East and West Germans at the time. CITY OF NIGHT BERLIN 1989 Peter Schilling found minor success outside of his native Germany with Coming Home (Major Tom), his retelling of Bowie’s Space Oddity. Released just before the Wall came down, City of Night (Berlin) speaks of the plights of a still-divided city while encouraging Berliners to retain hope: “What's done is done, but you are still young, Berlin.” A GREAT DAY FOR FREEDOM 1994 Although Another Brick In the Wall was performed at Pink Floyd’s 1990 concert on the former noman’s-land between Potsdamer Platz and the Brandenburg Gate, it’s the band’s 1994 song that has stronger ties to the city. Written shortly after the history-making Berlin show, A Great Day for Freedom tackles the disappointment many felt after the fall of the Wall. “I sort of wish and live in hope, but I tend to think that history moves at a much slower pace than we think it does,“ guitarist David Gilmour said. “I feel that real change takes a long, long time.” Despite his explanation, some fans continue to interpret the song as Gilmour’s feelings toward former band member Roger Waters.

©ISTOCK

ICH HAB’ NOCH EINEN KOFFER IN BERLIN 1954 Hollywood legend Marlene Dietrich recorded numerous songs about the city, including Das

War in Schöneberg, an homage to the neighborhood in which she was born. But it’s her Ich Hab’ Noch Einen Koffer in Berlin ("I Still Have a Suitcase in Berlin") that is perhaps not only her best-known Berlin song but also her greatest tribute. In her smoky-smooth voice, she makes comparisons to other cities and argues, rightfully so, how none match up to her hometown.

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SIZING GUIDE SHOES US

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your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com. Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4

Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2

Liquidrom

Kiran Kelim & Teppich Kunst

Treat yourself to a blissful evening, with an outdoor spa, a thermal bath with mood lighting and underwater music, and five different saunas. Best of all are the infusions which take place in the Finnish sauna on the hour, or the honey and salt body scrubs. www.liquidrom-berlin.de. Möckernstr. 10. T: 030.258007820. U Möckernbrücke. E4

Nivea Haus Nivea is Latin for snow white. At the flagship store of this German beauty powerhouse you can browse the entire product range, sign up for a consultation, or get a quick massage or facial. www.nivea.de/Haus. Unter den Linden 28. T: 030.20456160. S+U Friedrichstraße, U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Parfumsalon An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3

HOME DÉCOR Home on Earth Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V,

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Kiran has been importing rugs for more than 40 years, and the curated selection includes vintage and contemporary kilims, some self-designed pieces, as well the gorgeous Rug Star design rugs. www.kelim.de. Stilwerk, 3rd floor. Kantstr. 17. S Savignyplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Pylones These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun. The designers especially like to choose zoomorphic themes, which means that nutcrackers look like cats and watering cans like birds. www.pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

FOOD & GOURMET Läderach Exquisite Swiss chocolates from a family-run company with the highest standards for quality and craftsmanship. Shop for irresistible pralines, truffles, figurines, nut-filled chocolate bark sold by weight, and much more in Berlin’s two Läderach boutiques: in the west-end just across from the monumental KaDeWe, and on Mitte’s Friedrichstraße. Tauentzienstr. 4. T:030.20837679. Friedrichstr. 81. T: 030.80492457. www.laederach.com.

Markthalle Neun Built in 1891 and one of only three historic market halls remaining in Berlin, Markthalle IX has undergone a revival in recent years, now

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

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hosting a farmers’ market every Friday and Saturday from 10am to 6pm. Check the website for other foodie events, like the popular Street Food Thursdays and periodic cheese and sweets markets. www.markthalle9.de. Eisenbahnstr. 42-43. T: 030.577094661. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Mampe Spirituosen The famous Berlin-based liquor company has a new home in the Bergmannkiez. Browse the shelves of the shop for great bottles to bring home. shop.mampe.berlin. Am Tempelhofer Berg 6. T: 030. 208484470. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E3

Rausch Schokoladenhaus This is Berlin’s undisputed temple of chocolate. As if the longest chocolate counter in the world weren’t enough, the shop also features eyepopping displays of chocolate masterpieces, like a model of the Reichstag made from 300 kg of dark chocolate. www.fassbender-rausch.de. Charlottenstr. 60. T: 030.20458443. U Stadtmitte. E3

ELECTRONICS Sennheiser This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. The cuttingedge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www.sennheiser.com. Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030.23630162. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

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SHOPPING MAPS

ADVERTORIALS

HACKESCHER MARKT AND MITTE ®

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IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

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SHOP STOP

PARFUMSALON This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

SHOP STOP

LÄDERACH – CHOCOLATIER SUISSE More than 80 different types of pralines and truffles, the brand’s original FreshChocolate and many more delicious treats: the Läderach product range is every chocolate fan’s dream and has the perfect premium chocolate for any occasion Tauentzienstrasse 4. T: 030 20837679 www.laederach.com U Wittenbergplatz

TOP PICK

GEDÄCHTNISKIRCHE

The church’s bombed-out tower was restored to its present state in 1957 and has been an anti-war memorial and a symbol of West Berlin ever since. The old church’s ruins host an exhibition documenting the cathedral’s former splendor and showing the Ku’damm before the air raids. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030 2185023 www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de S+U Zoologischer Garten

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Checkpoint Charlie Frau Tonis Parfum

The famous Parisian department store brings French charm and style to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies. Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207 where you can also shop at Gucci, Opera‘s, Le Nails, Sathea, Cashmere House, Manon Chocolaterie, La Librairie and Galeries Lafayette Outlet.

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This perfume boutique has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery. Try contemporary scents such as OUD Weiss or classics such as Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance. For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume. Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie). T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com

More than 80 different types of pralines and truffles, the brand’s original FreshChocolate and many more delicious treats: the Läderach product range is every chocolate fan’s dream and has the perfect premium chocolate for any occasion Friedrichstrasse 181. T: 030 80492457 www.laederach.com U Stadtmitte www.wheretraveler.com 31

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MALL OF BERLIN

COS

HALLHUBER

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Replay

Deichmann

Hollister

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Rich & Royal

Tezenis

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Runners Point

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Dogo Shoes

Hunkemöller

MAX & CO.

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Tom Tailor

Einblick Optik

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daughters

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Engelsrufer & Co.

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Fashion & Accessories 7 FOR ALL

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Calvin Klein Jeans

Airfield

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Taschenparadies

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Undiz

Sidestep

Vans

Sizeer

VERO MODA

Frisco Jeans

Liu Jo

Passionata

Sportalm Kitzbühel

G-Star Raw

LLOYD

Peak Performance

SPORTSCHECK

WORMLAND

CINQUE

GANT

L’Occitane

Peek &

Street Shoes

ZARA

Bershka

Claire’s

GINA TRICOT

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Cloppenburg

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Clarks Ecco

GUESS

MANGO

Pepe Jeans

Sunglass Hut

BREE

Codello

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MARC CAIN

Reno

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...and the biggest Foodhall.

Backlash Barbieri

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Sony Center CineStar/IMAX LEIPZIGER Potsdamer Platz PLATZ DAMER STRASSE

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LEIPZIGER STRASSE

Potsdamer Platz

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EBER

VOSSSTRASSE

LMST

WILHE

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Mohrenstr.

Dalí Museum

BUNDESRAT

Potsdamer Platz

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Blue Man Group Theater

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

Berlin

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SHOPPING

LUXURY BRANDS CHOPARD

AIGNER

www.chopard.com Kurfürstendamm 54. T: 030 70096980. U Uhlandstraße. B4

www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683668. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BALLY

ESCADA

www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52. T: 030.88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3

BUCHERER www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45. T: 030.2041049. U Kochstraße. E4

www.escada.com. Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4

MAURICE LACROIX www.mauricelacroix.de. Friedrichstr. 166. T: 030.33024852. U Französische Straße. E3

MCM www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. S Hackescher Markt. F2

ROLEX

BULGARI

www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Adenauerplatz. B4

www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030.8857920. U Uhlandstraße. B4

WEMPE

EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170. T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3

www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.8826878. U Adenauerplatz. B4

shopping arkaden

A PLACE FOR SHOPPING ARKADEN SHOPS open from Mon—Sat, 10am to 9pm. POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

For Mere Muggles The Harry Potter fantasy novels by British author J. K. Rowling continue to cast a spell on young and not-so-young readers, and are considered cornerstones of modern literature. The eight-part film adaptation by Warner Bros is alsoa major cinematic achievement, on par with Star Wars. All this success has led to the development of a Harry Potter franchise, which also includes the travelling exhibit Harry Potter: The Exhibition, which premiered in Chicago in 2009 and is now back in Berlin. For fans, the exhibition is a chance to dive into the Harry Potter world. The story of Harry Potter and his friends at the Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry, their struggle against Lord Voldemort, and the chance to get an up-close look at thousands of authentic props, costumes, and creatures from the Harry

Potter films is completely bewitching. A visit begins by donning the wizard’s Sorting Hat to decide which of the four Houses at Hogwarts you belong in. Then the enormous doors open and there are screens showing clips from the Harry Potter movies before you get to the engine car of the Hogwarts Express, which will make you feel as if you have traveled from platform nine-andthree quarters at King’s Cross station to the village of Hogsmeade. The exhibition displays the film's most popular locations, such as classrooms like Potions, the dark Forbidden Forest, and the Gryffindor common room and dormitory, which include funny notices on the bulletin board, Harry’s and Ron’s beds, and the golden egg. In addition to the enthralling displays, there are several interactive elements. Guests

can pull their own squealing Mandrake from a pot, stop in at Hagrid’s hut to sit in his giant-sized armchair, and also take part in the most popular sport Quidditch by tossing a Quaffle ball through hoops, though unfortunately not while sitting on a broomstick. You’ll also enjoy getting a close-up look at actual Hogwarts robes and wands, and standing humbly before a vocalizing hippogriff or staring into the mouth of a Hungarian Horntail dragon are experiences you’ll never forget. The imagined world of J. K. Rowling is saturated with details, which will all mean a lot if you’ve seen the films or read the books... and if you haven’t, it might get you started. Caligari Halle, Filmpark Babelsberg, Marlene-Dietrich-Allee 9, Potsdam. www.harrypotterexhibition.de

©WARNER BROS. ENTERTAINMENT INC. HARRY POTTER PUBLISHING RIGHTS ©JKR

Annabelle Mallia is enthralled by the imagined, magical world of Harry Porter.

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SIGHTSEEING

MAJOR SIGHTS The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Gendarmenmarkt The harmonious square was named after the gens d’armes, a Prussian army regiment of French Huguenots. Designed in the late 1600s, it includes two symmetrical cathedrals, one French and the other German, and the majestic Konzerthaus. In the middle of the square stands a monument to Germany’s most acclaimed poet of all time, Friedrich Schiller. U Französische Straße, Stadtmitte. E3

Hackesche Höfe This series interconnected courtyards is a great example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Panoramapunkt am Potsdamer Platz In 20 seconds, an elevator whisks you to the top of a 100m-high platform with one of the best views in Berlin. Visitors can enjoy drinks and cake at the café, with the city’s skyline as a backdrop. Daily 10am–8pm (until 6pm Nov–Mar). €6.50/5. www.panoramapunkt.de. Kolhoff Tower, Potsdamer Platz 1. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Potsdamer Platz and Sony Center

Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known Haus der Kulturen der Welt theaters, dance halls, and cafés. Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by WWII bombs obliterated 80 locals because of its curvy shape, To see what the Berlin percent of the square, which was the Haus der Kulturen der Welt was Wall really looked like, left in limbo for a few years and visit the last remaining built as a congress hall in 1956. The then enclosed in a no-man’s-land untouched stretch at building quickly became a symbol between the Wall and barbed wire Bernauer Straße. of western freedom and creativity, in fences. The square came back to life contrast to East German architectural in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation projects of the time. Computer-guided of its original self. Divided in three slices, it chime concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm and includes the Sony building with its central plaza, the building now hosts concerts and intercultural filled with cafes and cinemas; Daimler City, home events. Open daily 10am–7pm. € prices vary. to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style www.hkw.de. John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10. Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche This church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and a symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church’s ruins now host an exhibition of before and after photos documenting its former splendor and showing the Ku’damm before the bombs. Look up to admire what is left of the old mosaic. Open daily from 9am to 6pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz.T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, Kurfürstendamm. C4

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character,

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola

MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

TRÄNENPALAST: PHOTO BY PETRAS.

HISTORIC SITES Asisi’s Wall Panorama

The Tränenpalast, a small, retro building situated between the Friedrichstraße S-Bahn station and the river, hosts an interesting exhibition on life by the border during the cold War period.

Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. Kochstraße. E3/E4 www.wheretraveler.com 35

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SIGHTSEEING

MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving

stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. Bernauer Straße. E2

creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße,S Ostbahnhof. G4

Haus der Wannsee Konferenz

During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

In 1942, this idyllic lakeside villa hosted the Nazi meeting in which Adolf Eichmann decided to carry out the “Final Solution.” The plan was to systematically exterminate 11 million Jews throughout Europe. Today, the museum hosts a memorial and a small exhibit displaying shocking documents and photographs from the concentration camps. Open daily 10am–6pm. € free. Am Großen Wannsee 56-58. www.ghwk.de. 030 8050010. S Wannsee, then bus 114. Off Map

East Side Gallery

Holocaust Memorial

Checkpoint Charlie

While West Berliners loved to express their

MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the

Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Karl-Marx-Allee Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

In The Jungle, The Mighty Jungle Never mind the cold weather, Berliners know how to escape the winter without having to catch a plane. One of their secret escapes is Biosphäre Potsdam, an indoor jungle just outside the capital, in Potsdam, featuring a tropical world with more than 20,000 plants, a diverse range of animals including free-flying tropical birds, and an hourly thunderstorm complete with lightning and rain sounds. Kids and parents alike will have fun discovering a world of mystic exotic creatures such as clownfish, butterflies, and medical plants, or take part in some of the activities, which include feeding the koi fish and learning more about the interesting animals living in the indoor park. All while parents relax in the café at the forest pond. Georg-Hermann-Allee 99. T: 0331550740. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de

COURTESY OF BIOSPHÄRE POTSDAM , © AGENTUR KRAFTSTOFF.

Berlin Wall Documentation Center

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SIGHTSEEING Mauer Museum (Haus am Checkpoint Charlie) This privately-run exhibit explores the means and tools used by East Germans to escape the GDR until 1989: Trabant cars with hidden doors, hot air balloons, tunnels, and chairlifts were just some of the crafty inventions devised by GDR residents. Open Mon–Sun 9am–10pm. €12.50/6.50. www.mauermuseum.de. Friedrichstr. 43-45. T: 030.2537250. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp Built by prisoners as a model concentration camp in 1936, Sachsenhausen’s first inmates were mainly political prisoners, whereas Jews, gypsies, homosexuals, and people considered “inferior” were brought here a few years later. The iron gate bears the infamous “Arbeit macht frei” sign, and the barracks host a number of exhibitions about extermination methods, daily life of prisoners and the medical experiments performed on them. Open 8:30am–6pm (until 4:30pm midOct–mid-March). Museums and exhibitions closed on Mondays. € free. Guided tours available. www.stiftung-bg.de. Straße der Nationen 22, Oranienburg. T: 03301.200200. S Oranienburg or RE Oranienburg train from Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Stasi Prison Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of

the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears) Until 1990, the departure hall of the Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” Tue–Fri 9am–7pm (Sat–Sun until 6pm). Free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17. T: 030.46777790. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

KIDS & FAMILIES Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the

world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Computer Game Museum Over 300 items, including rare originals, walk visitors through the development of computer games from the 1959 Brown Box to the Playstation and beyond. Visitors can test most of the games. Open Wed–Mon 10am–8pm. €8/5. www.computerspielemuseum.de. Karl-Marx-Allee 93a. T: 030.60988577. U Weberwiese. G3

Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4

Legoland Discovery Center Everything is built with the famous plastic bricks at this indoor Lego wonderland. There are videos explaining how Lego is made, a Lego factory, a 4D cinema with tactile effects, a Duplo village for the very little ones, and a medieval world with knights and dragons. Kids can build their own structures and try them out at the test centre. Daily 10am– 6pm (last admission 5pm) except 24 Dec. €16 (from €8 if you book online, under-3s free). Combined tickets with Madame Tussauds, Sea Life, and Berlin Dungeon. www.legolanddiscoverycentre.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 01806.66690110. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

TOURS & WALKS Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.

THINGS WE LOVE ABOUT BERLIN There are many reasons to love the German capital.

1 2 3

4 5 6

AUGUSTSTRASSE IN MITTE: one long art gallery. SHOPPING AT KADEWE: the biggest department store in Europe. THE MIX OF CULTURES: hundreds of languages and foods.

THE HISTORIC BUILDINGS: a feast of architectural styles. THE CULTURE: three opera houses and myriad theaters big and small. THE CITY’S LAID-BACK NATURE: a relaxed, casual look rules.

Tempelhof Airport Building MUST SEE What used to be the city’s most central airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park whose six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other sports. The airport building, built in Nazi times and later used by the Allies, is a symbol of the city's eventful history, and offers guided tours every Wed, Fri, Sat, and Sun. www.thf-berlin.de. T: 030.200037441. Tempelhofer Damm. S Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke, U Boddinstraße. Off Map

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.

7 8 9 10

THE SPREE RIVER and the city’s endless waterways. THE CULINARY DIVERSITY, from arroz con pollo to Zimtsterne. EXPERIENCING THE CITY BY NIGHT. Berlin is safe, lively, and insomniac. THE ASISI WALL PANORAMA: a journey back in time. www.wheretraveler.com 37

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

Serene Tseng faces the unknown and uncomfortable at C/O Berlin. C/O Berlin is one of best places to see photography in the city. It showcases both high-profile and up-and-coming photographers, and never shies away from evocative and provocative subject matter. This month, the gallery presents two darkly captivating exhibitions. The first of the two, The Last Image, explores the relationship between photography and the topic of death. Art, muisc, literature, and film have all focused on the fear of dying, but photography's immortalizing power is able to move across space and time more than any other artistic medium. The photographs in the exhibition, including works by Andy

Warhol, Bertolt Brecht, and Brigitte Maria Mayer, are allegories of death. Death is not always visible but is nonetheless overwhelmingly present in the images, whether they capture the crackling, intense moments right before the end, or the sterile and emotionless contexts of forensic photography. The uncomfortable subject matter prods us to consider the finiteness of our own existence and the inevitable end of all things. Lightening up the mood a bit is Impossible Love â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Vintage Photographs, a retrospective of Nobuyoshi Arakiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s art. The artist is known for his nude and erotic photographic work, and the exhibition

spans his earliest shots to his most recent, exploring the realms of anonymity and intimacy, the public and private sphere, and reality and dream. Moody black-andwhite shots of life in Tokyo in the early 1970s are placed together with more recent Polaroids, highlighting stark contrasts between opposites, such as nakedness and namelessness. With palpable closeness and familiarity with his subjects, Araki himself is also transformed to be a part of the photographed image. The intense sexuality of the visuals is both moving and unsettling, guiding the viewer to consider the effects of responsibility and morals on society.

DUANE MICHALS, SELF PORTRAIT AS IF I WERE DEAD, COURTESY OF C/O BERLIN.

The Dark Corners Of The Gallery

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Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To 10 Jan: Flesh | Meat. Between life and death is meat and our relationship to It. Tue– Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am– 6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 10 Mar: Henriette von Carlowitz Reborn. The Restoration of a Painting by Anton Graff. Following the process of restoration and conservation of the stately aristocrat’s portrait. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 31 Jan: Two Camels and a Saint. The Antique Pilgrimage Site of Abu Mina in Egypt. An exploration of the ancient pilgrimage site. To 2 Jun: Beyond Compare: Art from Africa in the Bode-Museum. Sculptures from Africa and Europe displayed together. To 27 Oct: The Münzkabinett Turns 150. Coins, Medals and People. Celebrating the individuals who contributed to the Münzkabinett throughout the centuries. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb. museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bröhan Museum Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. To 6 Jan: George Grosz in Berlin. A retrospective on the works of one of the greatest political satirists of the Weimar Republic. To 10 Feb: Dieter Hacker - Political Photography (1974-1981). A solo exhibition Hacker's work on West Germany and the power of images. To 3 Mar: Simply Danish. Silver Jewellery of the Twentieth Century. Tracing the development of Danish jewelry design of the past century. www.broehan-museum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. T: 030: 32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €9.80/6. www.ddr-museum.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German

history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 3 Feb:

Revealed By The Reverse. The Hidden History of a Painting by Adolph Menzel. Tracing the origins and journeys of the works in the museum’s permanent collection. To 6 Jan: Europe and the Sea. Exploring the history of Europe, the maritime continent. To 3 Mar: Angel, Swastika, Dome of the Rock. Christmas tree decorations from the 20th century until today. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. To 13 Oct: Architectura navalis - Floating Baroque. A showcase of the magnificent ships of Baroque Europe. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am– 6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

Deutsches Spionage Museum (German Spy Museum) Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutsches-spionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3

Erlebnis Europa Experience Europe in the heart of Berlin! Take a seat in their 360° cinema for a plenary session of the European Parliament, take on the role of a Commissioner of the European Union in their simulation game, discover EU members states with facts and figures and stories from daily life, or simply take a European happy snap to send home. All in 24 European languages. Open daily 10am–6pm. Free Admission. www.erlebnis-europa. eu. Unter den Linden 78. T: 030 22802900. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Take a walk through

Berlin’s history

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To 30 Apr: Welcome to Jerusalem. An exploration of Jerusalem through time and religions. To Fall 2019: Ganzfeld "Aural" by James Turrell. Immersive light sculptures in the museum's garden. To 30 Sep: A Is for Jewish. Journeys through Now in 22 Letters. Exploring what it means to be Jewish in Germany with the Hebrew alphabet Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Kupferstichkabinett MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the Great Elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in English as the Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. To 3 Mar: Rendezvous: French Master Drawings at the Kupferstichkabinett. Meet the museum's beautiful collection of drawings from French masters. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun

©ISTOCK

MUSEUMS

Berlin www.wheretraveler.com 39

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm. €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger Str. 16. T: 030.202940. U Mohrenstraße, Stadtmitte. E3

Martin-Gropius-Bau

Museum of Natural History

MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and

photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. To 6 Jan: Gurlitt: Status Report. Examining the troubled history of works from Cornelius Gurlitt's collection. To 7 Jan: Restless Times. Archaeology in Germany. Connecting the earliest cultural interactions within Europe with Germany. To 13 Jan: Lee Bul: Crash. The historical and political evolution of South Korea told through the lens of art. To Feb 2019: Wu Tsang. Her year-long residency explores states between documentary and fiction. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. To 19 May: The Lives of Images - Works and Their Provenances in Museum Berggruen. The history of works with unclear or unknown pasts Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Home to the world’s largest mounted dinosaur skeleton and to Europe's first original T. rex, the natural history museum also features a rare speciment of Archaeopterix, as well as extensive collections of shells, insects, and mammals. From 9 Oct: ARTEFACTS. Large-scale photographs of the effects of human activity on nature. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/5. www.museumfuernaturkunde.berlin. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.8891408591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 29 Sep: The Crown of Kerch. Treasures from the Dawn of European

History. Featuring gold jewelry from the Migration Period found near the Black Sea. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242.S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian world. Altar room closed for restoration through end of 2019. To 10 Feb: The Colours of Sindh. Architectural decor and historic photographs from southern Sindh in Pakistan. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S Hackescher Markt. E3

Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever

Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 19 May: Saul Leiter. David Lynch. Helmut Newton: Nudes. The first exhibition at the museum to be dedicated to nude photography. To 3 Mar: Berlin in the 1918/19 Revolution. Photography, Film, Entertainment Culture. A photographic visual history of the immediate post-war period and its entertainment culture. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Museum of Musical Instruments A fascinating collection of ancient and modern musical instruments, including bagpipes, harpsichords, and instruments once owned by celebrities. Check the website for the weekly demonstrations of the most impressive musical machines, such as a silent film-era cinema organ. Open Tue, Wed, Fri 9am–5pm, Thu 9am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm. €6/3 (under 18s free). www.sim.spk-berlin.de. Tiergartenstr. 1. T: 030.254810. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Museum of Communication An entertaining journey through the history of communication inside the neo-Baroque building that once hosted Berlin’s post office museum. Robots welcome visitors and iPads make perfect tour guides through the most intriguing steps in the development of postal and telephone communication, all the way to the era of information technology. Open Tue 9am–8pm,

Birth Of A City To celebrate its 110th birthday, Märkisches Museum has been thoroughly dusted off and remodeled, and its new permanent exhibition, BerlinZEIT – compact history, takes visitors on a journey through time to the most formative chapters of the city’s past via four elaborate media installations: “Ice Age” shows the effects of the most recent glacial period, “Timewheel” provides a historical comparison with other cities, “Destroyed Berlin” explores the devastation of Berlin’s neighborhoods during WWII, and “Berlin Wall of Sound” offers a a unique sonic encounter with the Berlin Wall. The latest in multimedia technology has been combined with unique archaeological discoveries, including the remains of the former concentration camp, the Columbia Haus, salvaged from Tempelhofer Feld Park. Need a rest after your lesson in Berlin history? The second floor houses the armory, guildhall, and historical Gothic chapel from the museum’s founding days and has been turned into a relaxing space with a 1960s jukebox playing tracks from or about Berlin. Be sure to get the audio guide, featuring rapper Romano and other famous Berliners. Am Köllnischen Park 5, www.stadtmuseum.de

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €6/4.50. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

ART GALLERIES Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 11 Mar: Freedom: The Novembergruppe 1918-1935. Art from the radical artist collective during the revolutionary postwar years. To 11 mar: Raphaela Vogel. Son of a Witch. 10 Years Videoart at Midnight. Exploring the female physique and male-centric technology in today's world. To 8 Apr: Julian Charrière. As We Used To Float. GASAG Art Prize 2018 recipient's multimedia installation on nuclear testing In the Pacific. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Learn about the secrets of espionage at the German Spy Museum (Deutsches Spionage Museum, p. 39).

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 3 Mar: The Last Image. Photography and Death. Over 400 works on the subject and image of death. To 3 Mar: Nobuyoshi Araki. Impossible Love Vintage Photographs. An exploration of public and private, anonymity and intimacy, and reality and dream. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Dalí – The Exhibition

collections. To 8 Sep: Elephant in the Room. Sculptures of the Marx Collection and the Collection of the Nationalgalerie. The spatial relationship with sculpture. To. 3 Mar: PAINTER. MENTOR. MAGICIAN. Otto Mueller and His Network in Wrocław. Spotlighting the influence Mueller had as a teacher at the Wrocław Academy. To 3 Mar: Agnieszka Polska: The Demon's Brain. A sound and video installation of 15th-century Poland. To 14 Apr: Sam Pulitzer. Whim or Sentiment or Chance. The young artist’s first solo exhibition, focused on criticism of institutions. To 12 May: How to Talk with Birds, Trees, Fish, Shells, Snakes, Bulls and Lions. An international and interwoven project exploring nature, human influence, and the environment. Tue–Fri 10am– 6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.smb.museum. Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. The Allied Museum in U Potsdamer Platz. D3 Zehlendorf traces the

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery

Haus am Waldsee

Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. To March 2019: Karin Sander - A Retrospective. A specially designed installation to celebrate the re-opening of the Haus am Waldsee. Open Tue– Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

history of the Allied presence in Berlin.

MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. To 24 Feb: A Star Above Bethlehem. Visual narratives of the New Testament from engraver Hendrick Goltzius and his contemporaries. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb. museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Hamburger Bahnhof

Helmut Newton Foundation

The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 29 Sep: Local Histories. Tracing the history and development of pieces in the Hamburger Bahnhof and Nationalgalerie

Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre. To 19 Mar: Saul Leiter. David Lynch. Helmut Newton: Nudes. The first exhibition at the museum to be dedicated to nude photography. Tue–Sun

10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www.helmutnewton.com. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 1 Apr: The Moment is Eternity - Works from the Olbricht Collection. Themes of beauty, sensuality, the body, time, and society in the fleeting moment. Wed–mon noon–6pm. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

PalaisPopulaire With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 7 Jan: The world on paper. www.db-palaispopulaire.de. Unter den Linden 5. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Sammlung Boros No more than 12 guests at a time can visit this former Nazi bunker turned art gallery. Collector Chistian Boros bought the historic building in 2003 to fill it up with contemporary art by artists like Damien Hirst, Olafur Eliasson, and more. Open by appointment only (book online). €12. www.sammlung-boros.de. Reinhardtstr. 20. T: 030.27594065. S+U Friedrichstraße. E2/E3

Commercial Galleries Mianki. Gallery, until 19 Jan: Claudia Kallscheuer: Clear and Cloudy. Kalckreuthstr. 15. www.mianki. com; Galerie Michael Haas, until 19 Jan: Reinhard Pods. Niebuhrstr. 5. www.galeriemichaelhaas. de; Wichtendahl Galerie, until 26 Jan: Nicole Ahland, Dorothee Rocke: Silence. Carmerstr. 10. www. wichtendahl.de; Galerie Tammen & Partner, until 26 Jan: Marion Eichmann. Hedemannstr. 14. www.galerie-tammen-partner.de; Galerie Georg Nothelfer, until 26 Jan: Winter Accrochage. Gallery artist. Corneliusstr. 3. www.galerie-nothelfer.de www.wheretraveler.com 41

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DINING | THE GUIDE Layla

Prism

Layla

Love From The Levantine There are two factors that pretty well guarantee a region will develop excellent cuisine: a confluence of different cultures, plus a climate that supports the growth of great produce all year 'round. Israel is lucky enough to have both. And Berlin, in turn, is lucky to have been on the receiving end of a steady flow of Israeli culinary influence in recent years, with numerous Israeli-owned or -influenced restaurants now enriching the local dining scene. All the diverse flavors that contemporary Israeli cuisine has to offer are now just a short ride away. Brand-new Prism (Fritschestr. 48, www. prismberlin.de) is a must-visit for every gourmand. European fine dining meets Levantine inspiration and exceptional wines at this brand-new endeavor from Berlin Master Chef nominee Gal Ben Moshe. As with Glass, Ben Moshe's prior restaurant, the specialty here is multi-course tasting menus grounded in

Middle Eastern staples and spices, like tender, rare lamb complemented with sour cherries and pine nuts. Ben Moshe has a particular flair for desserts, conjuring magical tableaux out of such simple-sounding ingredients as figs, honey, and camel milk. Even the wine list is an impressive testimony to the diversity of the Levantine region, including fine vintages from Lebanon, Syria, and Israel. Mark my words – a Michelin star is surely on the horizon for this gem. Also new to the Berlin dining scene is Layla (Hallesche Str. 10, www.layla-restaurant.com), a warm and modern dining spot from Israeli chef and restaurateur Meir Adoni, housed in the Crowne Plaza Hotel. Adoni drew upon his Moroccan roots and Israeli taste buds to create the fusion-forward menu, featuring traditional flavors like preserved lemon and cardamom as well as twists like Japanese yuzu citrus and Sichuan pepper. Go more classic with dishes

like chraime seafood stew or smoky eggplant carpaccio scattered with pistachios and rose petals, or branch out with delicacies like hamachi sashimi paired with baharat walnuts. Kreuzberg's Shishi (Ritterstr. 12–14, www. shishiberlin.de) shakes things up with a more hip, irreverent vibe. Located in a one-time factory's courtyard that frequently doubles as a party space, Shishi is the new sister restaruant to Yafo (Gormannstr. 17B, www.yafoberlin. com), a fun and warm-hearted "Tel Aviv kitchen" in Mitte serving satisfying staples like hummus and roasted cauliflower with tahini. The more ambitious Shishi, on the other hand, ups the culinary ante. The menu of organic, seasonal plates includes the likes of grass-feed beef tartare with sumac onions or grilled kohlrabi dressed with green chili and fresh raw-milk cheese. Natural wines and custom cocktails keep the good vibes flowing all night long.

LAYLA: COURTESY OF LAYLA, © DAVID SONNTAG. PRISM: COURTESY OF PRISM AND GAL BEN MOSHE.

Israeli chefs and restaurateurs are making their mark on Berlin's dining scene, Hilda Hoy found.

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www.1687.berlin DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Berlin's concierge association, Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

FINE DINING

Breakfast from 8 a.m. Lunch from 12 p.m. Dinner from 5 p.m.

For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience. €€€€. Wed–Sat D. www.lorenzadlonesszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal

FriedrichEbert-Platz Scheidemannstr.

Str. des 17. Juni

Pariser Platz

Bahnhof Friedrichstraße

Dorotheenstraße Schadowstr.

Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Fine french inspired cuisine in an elegant ambiance.

Wilhelmstraße

Facil

SPRE

Mittelstraße

Unter den Linden

Neustädtischer Kirchplatz / Mittelstraße 30 / 10117 Berlin T. 0049 30 20630611 / info@1687.berlin

open Mo to Fr from 8:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. Sa from 5:00 p.m. to 11.00 p.m. / Sunday closed

W I RT S H AU S BERLIN

The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun and Mon. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30 10178 Berlin Tel.: 030 679665520

www.berlin-hofbraeu.de

Skykitchen Part of the andel’s Hotel, Skykitchen brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star www.wheretraveler.com 43

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DINING in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com. Landsberger Allee 106. T: 030.4530532620. S Landsberger Allee. H2

Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue–Sat L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4

ASIAN Jolly Chinese. Just across the water from Museum Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim sum dumplings as possible before moving on to the menu’s extensive variety of Sichuan-style and Cantonese dishes. Traditional Peking duck is the house specialty. €€. Daily L&D. www.restaurant-jolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4-4a. T: 030.20059500. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and

club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Sra Bua Thai/Japanese. Berlin’s home-grown star chef Tim Raue has done it again. Sra Bua, in the Hotel Adlon, is his latest restaurant to show off his love for the cuisines of Asia. Guests can expect only the most high-caliber Thai and Japanese cooking, and the Raue specialty: curries that are refined yet exploding with flavor. €€€. Tue-Sat D. www.srabuaadlon.de. Behrenstr. 72. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

FRENCH Restaurant 1687 French-Mediterranean. Enjoy refined, stylish dining with a side of intriguing history – just a stone's throw from Brandenburg Gate. The restaurant takes its name from the year in which the first Protestant church in Berlin was built on this very site, an important gathering place for French Huguenots fleeing religious persecution. The church was reduced to ruins in WWII, but in its place you can enjoy French-Mediterranean dishes and a top-notch wine selection. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat L&D.

www.1687.berlin. Mittelstr. 30. T: 030.20630611. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Le Faubourg Mediterranean. This classy brasserie facing the famed Ku’damm features modern art and a crisp, stylish interior alongside its menu of both classic and updated French cuisine. The recently revamped brasserie in the Hotel Sofitel Kurfürstendamm is the perfect spot for either a posh business lunch or a romantic dinner. Try the flambéed shrimp for a fiery cooking performance right at your table. €€. Daily L&D. www.sofitel.com. Augsburger Str. 41. T: 030.8009990. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

GERMAN/AUSTRIAN AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts

an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D.

taste and toast Bikini Berlin’s food market serving culinary delights from over 10 different countries, now open until 22:00!

Zoologischer Garten

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www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3

Altes Zollhaus German. This quaint, cottage-style building

was first constructed in the 1800s, when it served as a tollhouse for passing steamboats, then painstakingly restored after WWII. Today, it’s a canal-side restaurant serving elevated German cuisine created from the finest regional ingredients. €€–€€€. Tues–Sat D.www.altes-zollhaus-berlin.de. Carl-Herz-Ufer 30.T: 030.6923300. U Prinzenstraße. E4

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Hofbräuhaus German. An Oktoberfest atmosphere for the

whole family 365 days a year. This restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in typical Bavarian style, alongside live music, waiters in traditional costume, and the traditional Hofbräu beer, brewed in Munich since the 1700s. Expect dumplings and roasted ham hock at their popular Sunday brunch. €. www.hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30. T: 030 679665520. U + S Alexanderplatz. F2

The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters. There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b. T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

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DINING Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients. Specialties include extra-big currywurst and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2

Modern Hellenic dishes

Restauration 1840

Our meat is produced by speciesappropriate animal husbandry – Fresh Mediterranean fish – Select wines from various regions of Greece – Exclusive olive oil from the island of Lesbos – Groups welcome upon request

German. An elegant, old-timey restaurant decorated in the style of Berlin’s Golden 1920s. Think curved brick ceilings and lots of warm wood everywhere, plus an outdoor terrace. The menu: classic German meets modern European. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.berlin-1840.de.de. Am Zwirngraben 10. T: 030.24727401. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Rotisserie Weingrün German/European. Overlooking the canal on

the southern edge of Museum Island, this elegant-casual restaurant is a favorite of many local gastronomes. The highlight is the huge, upright flame grill, which prepares steaks, ribs, pork belly, and rotisserie chicken to perfection. Try the octopus salad or flambéed salmon for a special treat. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat D. www.rotisserie-weingruen.de. Gertraudenstr. 10. T: 030.20621900. U Spittelmarkt. F3.

Restaurant Z Friesenstraße 12 10965 Berlin-Kreuzberg reservation +49 (0)30 692 27 16 open daily from 5 pm www.restaurant-z.de find us on google maps

Zillemarkt

Berlin’s most delicious restaurants

German. Zillemarkt is steeped in old-school Berliner charm. For a taste, try the “Berliner Allerlei” platter for two, with cabbage rolls, mushy peas, fried potatoes, and no less than five kinds of meat. €. Daily B, L, D. Bleibtreustr. 48a. T: 030.8817040. S Savignyplatz. B4

ITALIAN Barist Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13. T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Bocca di Bacco Italian. This high-level restaurant offers

modern Italian cuisine prepared with top-quality ingredients, accompanied by excellent wines. Contemporary furnishings and elegant atmosphere. www.boccadibacco.de. €€–€€€. Daily L&D. Friedrichstr. 167-168. T: 030.20672828. U Französische Straße. E3

©ISTOCK

Mama Trattoria

Berlin

Italian. Healthful Italian food made with the best Italian ingredients and, whenever possible, with local produce. Many of the ingredients used, such as the beef and the pastas, are organic, and gluten-free options are available too. Order a pizza and salad, or just stop by for one of their delicious desserts. €/ €€. www.mama.eu. Pariser Platz 6a. T: 030.467260981. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere at this expansive pizza hall is on the raucous side and the service is notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city.

€. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2

OTHER Grand Rocka International. Inside, the restaurant takes over the historic arched space under S Hackescher Markt station, featuring a grand old wooden bar that lives up to the restaurant’s name, and out front, the terrace spills out across the busy Platz. The large international menu ranges from steaks to pizzas to burgers. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.grandrocka.de. Am Zwirngraben 6–7. T: 030.24638606. F2

Kantine Deluxe International. Take a break from sightseeing and fill up with a satisfying meal. Right in the heart of the city, Kantine Deluxe offers a fresh, affordable, and vegetarian-friendly menu of salads, burgers, pasta dishes, and Berlin specialties, with something to please everyone. €–€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.kantine-deluxe.de. Spandauer Str. 2. T: 030.34392626. S Hackescher Markt, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 Also: Ella-Trebe-Str. 3. T: 030.25099441. S Nordbahnhof. D2

Kantini International. Much more than just a food court, this dining destination in the west-end Bikini Berlin concept mall is a gathering place hosting 13 international street food makers, from Mexican tacos to Korean bibimbap to Hawaiian poke bowls. Fresh, healthy cuisine and stylish design, with views onto the neighboring zoo. €–€€. Mon–Sat B, L, D. www.bikiniberlin.de/en/kantini. Budapester Str. 38–50. T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Rio Grande International. This waterside restaurant serves an extensive selection of fine German and international dishes, from goulash to grilled fish and a variety of fresh salads, all in a classy setting. €€. Daily L&D. www.riogrande-berlin.de. MayAyim-Ufer 9. T: 030. 61074981. Schlesisches Tor.

Vivolo Olé Spanish. Authentic Spanish cuisine at Hackescher Markt, including a wide selection of tapas, paellas, grilled meats and fresh fish dishes. Vegetarian and vegan options available. www.vivolo.de. Am Zwirngraben 11-12. T: 030.24631933. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Z Modern Greek There's nothing like high-quality Mediterranean cuisine, and this restaurant prides itself on giving a modern twist to Greece's traditional dishes. The free-range meat, organic wines, and the many other high-quality products are imported directly from the southern European country. €€. Daily L&D. www.rstaurant-z.de. Friesenstr. 12. T: 030.6922716. S+U Schönhauser Allee. F1

VEGETARIAN/VEGAN Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating top-notch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. U Senefelderplatz. F2

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THE GUIDE | ENTERTAINMENT

Clockwise from above: Delphi Lux; stills from British Shorts; the opening event of last year's edition of British Shorts. Inset, below: The interior of the Kino International.

KINO INTERNATIONAL AND DELPI: COURTESY OF YORCK GROUP, PHOTOS BY DANIEL HORN; BRITISH SHORTS: COURTESY OF BRITISH SHORTS.

Pretty Pictures! Come January, Solveig Steinhardt seeks shelter in one of the city’s great movie theaters. It’s cold, it’s dark, it’s gloomy, maybe it’s even Sunday and all the shops are closed... What to do? Go see a movie of course! Sinking into a comfortable seat and staring at the big screen with a bag of popcorn is one of the small pleasures of life, and Berlin has a diverse movie theater scene with Kinos scattered all over town. Despite the local habit of dubbing English films into German, many theaters screen OV (original version) or OmU (original with subtitles) movies, so be sure to look for these abbreviations when picking your film! The large CineStar complex, which is part of Potsdamer Platz’s Sony Center (www.cinestar. de), has eight different theaters and shows the newest Hollywood blockbusters in English, while the smaller Odeon in Schöneberg (Hauptstr. 116, www.yorck.de) has been catering to an English-language audience ever

since the 1970s, when it was a favorite meeting spot for US soldiers and their families. On the other side of town is the Kino International (www.yorck.de), which is more than just a movie theater: Situated on Karl-Marx-Allee, this cinema is a prime example of socialist architecture, and has English-language shows almost every day. If you like special effects, at the newly opened Delphi Lux (Yva-Bogen, Kantstr. 10, www.yorck.de) you don’t even have to wait for the movie to begin: The seven screening rooms feature futuristic LED strips with changing lighting effects and optimal sound, and the vividly colored seats, with hues ranging from pink to mauve, dark green to blue, make this the prettiest theater in town, bar none. Many of

the movie screenings are in English, and they even have live opera broadcasts from important opera houses around the world. This is also a great month to attend a movie festival. From 16 to 20 January, Urban Spree (Revaler Str. 99) will be presenting the Hellas Filmbox Greek film festival (www.hellasfilmbox.de), which highlights the country’s artistic scene and cultural richness as well as its current social situation, involving a severe economic crisis and immigration issues. And around the same time, from 17 to 23 January, British Shorts (www.britishshorts.de) brings the most exciting, funny, most thrilling and strange short films from the other side of the Channel to various cinemas around town. No subtitles needed here! www.wheretraveler.com 47

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ENTERTAINMENT

BALLET & OPERA Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. www.deutscheoperberlin.de. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

HIGHLIGHTS OF THE MONTH:

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. www.komische-oper-berlin. de. Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsoper Unter Den Linden Berlin's historic opera house reopened in 2017 after lengthy renovations. Barenboim's perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. www.staatsoper-berlin. de. T: 030.2035540. Unter den Linden 7. U Alexanderplatz. E3 Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. www.staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

CLASSICAL CONCERTS Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Hochschule für Musik Hanns Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. www.berliner-philharmoniker. de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker and also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Pierre Boulez Saal Berlin’s newest concert hall is part of the Barenboim-Said Akademie, an institution dedicated to bringing together talented young musicians from Arab, Israeli, and Christian backgrounds. A unique, modern design by the venerable Frank Gehry design ensures stunning acoustics, and co-founder Daniel Barenboim

OPERA

KOMISCHE OPER 5, 12, 19, 26, 31 Jan: My Fair Lady (Loewe) 13 Jan: Eine Frau, die weiß, was sie will! (Straus) 27 Jan: La Bohème (Puccini) DEUTSCHE OPER: 1, 3 Jan: Die Fledermaus (Strauß) 6, 11 Jan: Carmen (Bizet) 19, 24 Jan: Tosca (Puccini) STAATSOPER 20, 25, 30 Jan: Don Giovanni (Mozart).

CLASSICAL

CHAMBER MUSIC HALL 8 Jan: The choir of the Moscow Bolshoi Theatre performs Christmas choral music. 15 Jan: The Berlin Philharmonic Wind Quintet performs Mozart and others. 20 Jan: Scholars of the Karajan Academy. PHILHARMONIE 3 Jan: The German National Orchestra and the Hungarian Symphony Orchestra Budapest (cond. Zukernik) perform Smetana, Rachmaninov, and Rimsky-Korsakov. 9 Jan: The Bundesjugendorchester (cond. Petrenko) performs Bernstein, Kraft and Stravinsky. 10-12 Jan: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Sokhiev) perform Borodin and Rachmaninov. KONZERTHAUS 1 Jan: The Konzerthausorchester performs its New Year's Concert (cond. Venzago).

3–5, 7, 8, 22, 25 Jan: Charity New Year's Concert. 6 Jan: K&K Philharmoniker and K&K Ballett (cond. Kendlinger).

POP, ROCK, JAZZ

TEMPODROM: 26 Jan: ABBA - The Tribute Concert

DANCE, MUSICALS, CABARET, VARIETY

STAATSBALLETT 18 Jan: La Bayadère at Staatsoper 25, 27 Jan: Romeo und Julia at Deutsche Oper CHAMÄLEON VARIETE All month: Circa’s Peepshow FRIEDRICHSTADT-PALAST All month: VIVID Grand Show MERCEDES-BENZ-ARENA 5 Jan: Ehrlich Brothers: FASZINATION A magic show ADMIRALSPALAST 8–12 Jan: Staatliches Russisches Ballett Moskau. 22–27 Jan: Nutcracker Reloaded WINTERGARTEN VARIETÉ: All month: Stauen - Circus of Stars

SPORTS

Mercedes-Benz Arena 10–12, 14, 15, 17 Jan: 2019 IHF Handball World Championship.

makes regular appearances on stage. www.boulezsaal.de. Französische Str. 33D. T: 030 47997411. U Französische Straße. E3

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin

HAU (Hebbel am Ufer)

Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de. Tickets: 030.20298715.

Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-am-ufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4

CAVALLUNA, COURTESY OF CAVALLUNA

Staatsballett

Cavalluna

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ENTERTAINMENT Radialsystem V

Estrel Festival Center Berlin

Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

Sophiensaele

KulturBrauerei

Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18. T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de.

MOVIE THEATERS CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. S Schöneberg. C5

ROCK, POP, JAZZ A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Arena The enormous former bus depot now presents events as diverse as rap concerts and roller derby and features a cocktail lounge and the Badeschiff, a heated swimming pool floating on the Spree River. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, U Schlesisches Tor. G4

B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night, while Wednesdays offer free jam sessions. www.b-flat-berlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 13. T: 030.2833123. U Rosenthaler Platz. F2

Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www.columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Havanna The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton. Check website for program. www. havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30. T: 030.7848565. S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5

Lido A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program. www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Schönhauser Allee 36. T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

Quasimodo One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to

CULTURAL HIGHLIGHTS 2019 • BERLIN • POTSDAM The great VERDI NIGHT

ITALY´S STAR-TENOR CRISTIAN LANZA & THE MILANO FESTIVAL OPERA

(Stuttgarter „A brilliant lanza, choir, orchestra at a very high level!“ Nachrichten)

02.02.19 • Sa 20 Uhr • POTSDAM • Nikolaisaal THE CROWN OF RUSSIAN BALLET

SWAN LAKE

The Russian National Ballet from Moscow „Ballet at the highest level!“ (NZZ)

07.02.19 • Thu 20 Uhr • POTSDAM • Nikolaisaal

HEINZ ERHARDT Revue

A PROGRAM WITH CULT-CHARACTER! Chamber Opera Cologne & Live Band

„Brilliant humor. Laughter guaranteed!“ (Die Welt)

20.02.19 • Wed 20 Uhr • POTSDAM • Nikolaisaal THE BLASPHEMY OF THE NATION

EKEL ALFRED

Chamber Opera Cologne with the episodes spring cleaning & silver wedding

01.03.19 • Fr 20 Uhr • POTSDAM • Nikolaisaal 05.03.19 • Tue 20 Uhr • BERLIN • Stage Theater am P. P. The Caribbean dance musical from Cuba

HAVANA NIGHTS

HAVANA NIGHTS DANCE COMPANY & CIRCO NATIONAL DE CUBA WITH LIVE-BAND

04.03.19 • Mo 20 Uhr • BERLIN • Admiralspalast 12.03.19 • Tue 20 Uhr • POTSDAM • Nikolaisaal

SCHMITT SINGS JÜRGENS

THE UDO JÜRGENS SHOW

Martin Schmitt on the white piano & live orchestra 16.03.19 • Sa 20 Uhr • BERLIN • Stage Theater am P. P.

12 TENORS

22 WORLD HITS • 12 TENORS • 1 SHOW „Rousing energy and powerful voices.“ (Express)

20.03.19 • Wed 20 Uhr • BERLIN • Philharmonie Tickets at all known VVK offices. Info: www.highlight-concerts.com www.wheretraveler.com 49

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ENTERTAINMENT blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de. Kantstr. 12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

SO36

Blue Man Group

The heart of Kreuzberg’s radical scene. The Dead Kennedys and Die Toten Hosen played here a few times, while today’s program ranges from punk and hard rock concerts to flea markets and tea afternoons. www.so36.de. Oranienstr. 190. T: 030.61401306. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. www. tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast. de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German

The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where audiences can experience a young genre that mixes acrobatics with music, dance, and visual arts. www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin MUST SEE With the biggest stage in the world, this is Berlin's most spectacular theater and a must-see acccording to The New York Times. Take in special effects and glitzy Vegas-style live shows. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Kookaburra Tuesday is English Comedy Night at this popular comedy club, and there’s also an English intermezzo late on Saturday nights. www.comedyclub.de. Schönhauser Allee 184. T: 030.48623186. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Neuköllner Oper Berlin’s fourth and recently opened opera house. While the others commit themselves to interpretations of known works, the Neuköllner Oper invents new pieces inspired by everyday life in its own unglamorous neighborhood. A theatrical rendition of a Berlin night. English surtitles. www. neukoellneroper.de. Karl-Marx-Str. 131 – 133. T: 030 68890777. U-Karl-Marx-Straße.Off map.

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www. quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. 15 Dec: CarringtonBrown, 10. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Out Of The Blue

BLUE MAN GROUP: COURTESY OF BLUE MAN GROUP.

They don’t talk much, and their autographs appear as a blue smudge on paper. With their bald heads and blue makeup, the Blue Man Group of humanoid characters combines comedy with multimedia, presenting a spectacular and highly entertaining show that melds music, creativity, comical moves, and sensational technology. Check out their brand-new show, held every day except Monday at Bluemax Theater (this page).

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NTIL O N LY U

2 4 .0 2 .2 0

Lights... Camera... Berlin!

The evening is hosted by: Thomas Otto René Bazinet Massimo Rocchi Sophie Berner Massimo Rocchi Thomas Otto

A city with as much history as Berlin makes for a perfect backdrop to some memorable movies. From classics to recent Hollywood blockbusters, here are some must-see German and English films, from oldest to newest, that star Berlin.

BERLIN: SYMPHONY OF A GREAT CITY (1927) This black-and-white beauty of a silent film depicts a day in the life of a bygone Berlin – a must-see for history fans.

22.08. – 11.11. 14.11. – 25.11. 28.11. – 09.12. 12.12. – 13.01. 16.01. – 20.01. 23.01. – 24.02.

Director: Rodrigue Funke

www.wintergarten-berlin.de Ticket-Hotline: 030 - 588 433 | Potsdamer Str. 96, 10785 Berlin

Hundreds of listings every month

CABARET (1972) This cinematic classic starring Liza Minnelli, depicting the famous era of swinging 1930s Berlin as the Nazis were rising to power, was filmed in both the capital and southern Germany.

WINGS OF DESIRE (1987) This gloomily beautiful love story by German heavyweight director Wim Wenders is like an ode to West Berlin. One iconic scene features the main character atop the Siegessäule column in Tiergarten.

RUN LOLA RUN (1998) This runaway (pun intended) international success takes its viewers on a heartthumping sprint all over town. One key location: the red-bricked Oberbaum Bridge.

THE BOURNE SUPREMACY (2004)

THE LIVES OF OTHERS (2006) This Oscar winner does a stellar job illustrating life in East Berlin, with scenes shot in the former Stasi headquarters in Lichtenberg and the Volksbühne theater in Mitte, for example.

©ISTOCK

Trained assassin Jason Bourne is chased all over the city in this thriller. Look for major cameos by the Friedrichstraße S-Bahn bridge and Alexanderplatz, for example.

Berlin wheretraveler.com

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

Just Ring The Buzzer Discrete cocktail bars thrive in Berlin, says Joe Stange of vice and adventure – drugs, cabarets, sexual liberation, and all-around hedonism. Cocktails fit neatly into that picture. Here are a few places to hide, and how to find them: GREEN DOOR: Famous among cocktail aficionados, its location is marked by, yes, a green door. Ring the bell to enter. Inside you’ll find a long and tidy bar with touches like retro wallpaper, a rotary dial telephone, and one luminous dog. The bar’s signature drink is a mix of champagne, lemon, mint, and sugar, but the bar staff’s reputation and skill speak to an infinite range of possibilities. Winterfeldtstraße 50. Daily from 6pm. BECKETTS KOPF: Instead of a sign out front, look for the ghostly visage of Samuel Beckett, then ring the bell. The interior is ruddy and warm, allowing conspiratorial pockets of natter in the deep upholstery or

at the tiled bar. Menus are bound by the covers of old Beckett plays, their contents inspired by forgotten 19th-century drinks. The Lusitanian, for example, includes Portuguese aguardente, cherry brandy, and Port. Pappelallee 64. Daily from 7pm. BUCK & BRECK: This time there are no green doors and no dead writers’ heads. You’ll just have to find the right address, ring the buzzer, and hope the doorman likes the look of you. This pretentious indifference may be part of the attraction—or it could be the exclusivity, with only 14 seats inside, anchored by a squarish bar in the middle. The bar is named for a once-forgotten 19th-century cocktail, which in turn was named for U.S. President Buchanan and his running mate, Breckenridge. It’s a mix of champagne, cognac, absinthe and bitters. Brunnenstr. 177. Daily from 7pm.

COURTESY OF BECKETTS KOPF. © ISTOCK.

This may be the capital of a prolific beer country—the wine ain’t half bad either— but Berlin is first and foremost a liquor town. The city is liberally garnished with cocktail bars of all stripes, from plush hotel lounges with dress codes to hyper-casual heavy-metal barrooms. Among the better ones, however, there is something of a shtick: You have to know where they are. Word of mouth and a doorbell usually suffice – as if it would be uncouth to announce one’s presence through something so banal as a sign out front. Strictly speaking, these are not "speakeasies" in the American sense. Germany never had a comparable Prohibition era, when such bars would have had to be secret to survive. Instead, the Roaring Twenties were the heyday of the short-lived Weimar Republic. At that time Berlin was known among travelers as a place 52 W H E R E B E R L I N I J A N UA R Y 2019

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NIGHTLIFE

BEER Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www.clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-Breslau-Str. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

whimsical. www.ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T:.030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

The Unique Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Sheraton Berlin, Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

Reingold

CLUBS

A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Traffic Club

Schwarzes Café

A young and fun club in Alexanderplatz, with music ranging from pop and house to commercial. Good drinks. www.traffic-berlin.com. Alexanderstr. 7. G4

WINE & COCKTAILS Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden.24h a day except Tue from 3-10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin. de.Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of cigars. www.weinrot-restaurant.com. Fasanenstr. 9-10. T: 030.311030. Savignyplatz. C4

BERGHAIN/PANORAMA BAR The world's most famous techno club – and with the toughest doormen too. Fri 12am–Mon. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. G3

KATER BLAU A top-notch soundsystem driving house and techno beats from the best DJs, and a carnival-like atmosphere. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de. Holzmarktstr. 25. G3

TRESOR Housed in the safe of a department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. F3

WATERGATE A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. Tight doors. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. G4

HOUSE OF WEEKEND Three floors, fabulous views over the city, and the best DJs playing techno and house. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin.de. Alexanderplatz 7. F3

CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS A popular, century-old dance hall. It's salsa on Mon, tango on Tues, swing on Wed, cha cha on Thu, and live ballroom music on Fri+Sat. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

HORNS & HOOVES An eccentric combination of club, piano bar, cabaret, and circus. www.hornsandhooves.de. Danziger Str. 1. F1

TRAFFIC CLUB A young and fun club in Alexanderplatz, with music ranging from pop and house to commercial. Good drinks. www.traffic-berlin.com. Alexanderstr. 7. G4

PURO SKY LOUNGE High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting on the roof of the Europa Center. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9-12. C4

Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to

CLUB GUIDE

THE PEARL Sip on some high-end whisky at the classy Lebensstern bar (www. lebens-stern.de).

Luxurious club for the poshest crowds, Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. G4

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof. Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664. Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333. Poison hotline, T: 030.19240. National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117. Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

Berlin At Your Fingertips Have smartphone, will travel. Download the Where Berlin team’s favorite apps for enhancing any visit to the capital city. All of them are free, and available for both Android and Apple devices.

THE BERLIN WALL Made by the Federal Agency for Political Education, this award-winning app brings the Berlin Wall to life with interactive maps, archival photos and audio clips, walking tours, and more.

MY TAXI Hail a ride using the My Taxi app, which also offers the option of making mobile payments.

DICT.CC A thorough, accurate, and easy-to-use German dictionary app that will have you communicating in no time.

FAHRINFO PLUS Get from A to B easily and efficiently with the BVG transit network’s app. Besides route guidance and live departure info, the app also lets you buy mobile tickets to avoid fiddling with clunky ticket machines.

MEETUP Whether you’re in the mood to do yoga, play board games, or just find some new friends, the Meetup. com community in Berlin is lively and warm. A great way to meet locals and fill your social calendar.

DURST When the hour is late and the craving hits for some beer, chocolate, smokes, snacks, or any other life necessities, open this app to find the closest Späti (late-night corner store) in your vicinity.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

GETTING AROUND Public Transport

www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike. Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de.

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

MONEY SERVICES

The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Banks and Foreign Exchange

Public Ferries

Lost Cards and Cheques

With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633. VBB is a public transportation authority created to reconnect Berlin to the surrounding Brandenburg area after German reunification.It offers services to metropolitan Berlin as well as to the rural communities in the countryside of Brandenburg. www.vbb.de

Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370. American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.

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BVG LICENCE NUMBER: BVG-0024.15.

MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG- 015-2-18.1-1;.

Stand: 7. Mai 2018 Â© Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) 015-2-18.1-1

ESSENTIALS

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16/08/2018 09:30

WHERE NOW | TIM MÜLLER

My Berlin

TIM MÜLLER FOUNDER, DSM

How did you get the idea to found your own distillery? A few years ago, my interest in wine led me to take a number of courses at the South African Wine Academy. I learned, for example, how the local brandy is produced, and became aware of the great diversity of our own culture of liquors and spirits. What made you choose Berlin as your location? I love Berlin. It has an incredible magnetic pull on me. And it has a rich history in the production of spirits that is ripe for revival. The cherry on the cake is the city’s totally fantastic bar scene. Where do you get the inspiration for the many flavor varieties of your schnapps and liquors? It often comes totally spontaneously, for example while taking in the amazing smells on a hike in the mountains of the South African Cape, at a Berlin market stand, or simply from memories of a flavor experience from childhood. Another driving force is our aim to do away with the fusty image that schnapps and spirits have acquired. What flavor varieties would you recommend for someone new to your

liquors? And which is your personal favorite? Tastes can go in all sorts of directions and with more than 70 different varieties, we surely have something for everyone. Blood orange, red beet, coffee, ginger, chocolate mint, and lavender blossom are just a few examples of what beginners should try, depending on their preferences. My personal favorites are hazelnut, coriander, cardamom, sage, porcini mushroom, and the Apotheker’s Weihnachtsgeist blend. What are some favorite local bars for a good drink? There are far too many to count, for I’m very open with my predilection for bars. A night out can begin in Mitte at a very elegant and exclusive hotel bar and end at a small, hidden spot in Kreuzberg or Neukölln. When you have friends or family come to visit, where do you go to show them “your” Berlin? Early in the morning, when the rest of Berlin is

still asleep, we’d start with a stroll along Mauerpark. Then coffee and a visit to the boutiques along Kastanienallee, towards Torstraße, then on rental bikes to the Brandenburg Gate and Siegessäule. To replenish, a stop at Dolores for burritos. Imagine it’s a beautiful day out and you have the whole day free. What would your perfect Berlin day look like? After a workout and sauna in the early morning hours, I would enjoy the sunshine with a delicious breakfast on the rooftop terrace at Soho House. Then I would get my bike and discover new corners of this endless city. Take a break beside one of the city’s lakes with a book, or hop in for a quick dip. On the way home I’d pick up some things for a great dinner, which I’d prepare at home together with my friends.

Clockwise from top left: Some of the distillery's creations; Tim Müller; the distillery's interior; bike riding; burritos.

A true connoisseur of all things boozy, Tim opened the doors of his new distillery, Deutsche Spirituosen Manufaktur, just last year in Berlin’s eastern Marzahn district. Crafted there in small batches are potent and aromatic spirits for sipping neat or to add flavor notes to cocktails, including an array of citrus varieties from Sicily and Mallorca, Bavarian spruce buds, or Ethiopian coffee bean. Cheers! www.d-s-m.com

58 W H E R E B E R L I N I J A N UA R Y 2019

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03/12/2018 11:00

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