Where Magazine Berlin Dec 2018

BERLIN CITY GUIDE ®

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

WHERETRAVELER.COM

DECEMBER 2018

‘Tis the season

Christmas markets, holiday treats, and lots of gift ideas

SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS WB Dec COVER USE.indd 1

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BEST OF SHOPPING MORE THAN 300 SHOPS

PHOTO: BREE

DELICIOUS FOOD HALL

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Berlin

CONTENTS

12.18 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

12

24

7 Editor’s Note

Picturesque neighborhood streets that are ideal for browsing.

Highlights of the month, including a NYE fun run, a decorative arts fair, and Swan Lake.

40

SIGHTSEEING

XX

Explore the capital's urban sights.

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46

The new Pergamon panorama byXX Yagedar Asisi combines multimedia visualization with antique sculptures.

68

53

53

DINING

Brunch – the most important meal of the day.

74

22 Ask The Concierge Berlin's concierges share their secrets.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

62

ENTERTAINMENT

The Magic Flute, a magic show, and jazz will keep you cozy and entertained.

24

74 My Berlin Ann-Christin Bertrand C/O Berlin's curator on the capital's art and photography scenes.

68

NIGHTLIFE

Happy New Year! Recommendations for ringing in 2019.

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SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

Developed a mulled wine addiction? Here's how to drink like a German at Christmas.

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Christmas markets, holiday treats, and lots of gift ideas

Once a year, go someplace you've never been before – and do it in style.

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

Useful information for your stay in Berlin.

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PSS: COMPAGNIA BACCALÁ, PHOTO BY SYLVIE BOSC; NEW YEAR'S EVE, CHRISTMAS MARKET: © ISTOCK; AMERIKA HAUS BOOK SHOP: COURTESY OF C/O BERLIN; NIGHT KITCHEN, © BOAZ ARAD; COAT BY BEATRICE VON TRESCKOW

8 Hot Dates

SHOPPING

B Mu

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Who needs warm socks for Christmas, when you can get a sports car that keeps you warm all over.

Porsche Drive.

Want to get someone special a nice present for Christmas?

How about some driving pleasure? Visit us at www.porsche.de/drive and reserve your dream Porsche. Or do it in person at Porsche Drive, Franklinstrasse 23 in Berlin or at one of our other locations in Stuttgart, on Sylt or in Rotkreuz (Switzerland).

Fuel consumption (in l/100km) urban 16.4–16.2 · extra urban 9.5–9.3 · combined 11.9–11.7; CO₂ emissions combined 272–267g/km

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06.11.18 14:33 12/11/2018 11:54

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6 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2018

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

Happy Holidays!

Let‘s go up!

2018 is almost over, and I can hardly believe it! They say time flies when you're having fun, and it's certainly been an exciting year. The new PalaisPopulaire art gallery was inaugurated on Unter den Linden a couple of months ago, the Haus am Waldsee just reopened after lengthy renovations, there's the new Illusions Museum on Alexanderplatz, and Yadegar Asisi's spectacular recreation of the ancient city of Pergamon, which opened a few weeks ago, is already attracting large crowds. It's hard to keep up with all the cultural events in this city!

This month is also filled with holiday magic, and we've tried to capture it all throughout the magazine. Turn to page 12 for things to do over the holiday period, or check out our Entertainment section (p. 62) for information on circus shows, magic performances, and concerts to boost your holiday mood.

And since this is a month of giving, we've selected some of our favorite gifts for lovers of travel and adventure.

Enjoy!

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTICK/THINKSTOCK.

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

Towering 368m above Berlin, the TV Tower dominates the city’s skyline like no other building. Plan your visit for the observation deck or the revolving restaurant “Sphere” now and avoid the queues – book your Fast Track Ticket online.

Berlin TV Tower – simply unforgettable!

www.tv-turm.de www.wheretraveler.com 7

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HOT

DATES December is a magical month to be in Berlin. From Christmas lights to circus and dance, this month is filled with fabulous events.

3

PSS PSS MONDAY

Without a single word being spoken, Swiss duo Compagnia Baccalà play out their dramatic and hilarious pas de deux through the universal language of gestures and looks in Pss Pss, a masterful fusion of acrobatics and modern-day clowning at Chamäleon Berlin. Inspired by the silent-film era and by actors the likes of Buster Keaton or Charlie Chaplin, Pss Pss has been captivating audiences for almost a decade, winning 13 international prizes along the way. www.chamaeleonberlin.com

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

ST. NICHOLAS' DAY THURSDAY

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On this day, children all over Germany wake up to find their shoes filled with sweets and small gifts – supposedly the work of St. Nicholas.

He was a Christian bishop who helped the needy, but after his death the legend of his gift-giving grew and took on the legendary persona of Santa Claus. Today it’s more a preliminary round for Christmas.

BERLINER SILVESTERLAUF MONDAY

Before you start consuming way too much celebratory champagne, do something good for your body and take part in the annual NYE Fun Run. The so-called Pfannkuchen (doughnut) race takes place around Teufelsberg in the Grunewald forest, with different routes to choose from depending on your fitness level and your willingness to don a silly costume. You’ll be rewarded at the end with a traditional jam-filled doughnut – or a mustard-filled one if you’re unlucky! www.berliner-silvesterlauf.de

6

ZEUGHAUSMESSE, BERLIN'S DECORATIVE ARTS FAIR FROM THURSDAY

It's art you can touch! This one-of-a-kind Christmas market held inside the German History Museum provides up-and-coming artists with the opportunity to present their work to design lovers and connoisseurs.

Over four days, visitors can discover art made for daily use, and ask creators about each object. We guarantee the stories are far more interesting than those of industrially manufactured objects. www.zeughausmesse.de

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SWAN LAKE FROM WEDNESDAY

Be enchanted by the most beloved ballet of all time. Swan Lake is a fairy tale about a princess turned into a beautiful swan by a wicked magician. Only the unconditional love of a prince can undo the spell. Do not miss this breathtaking show at Theater am Potsdamer Platz, performed by the Moscow State Ballett with all the gracefulness, discipline, and emotional perfection that Russian ballet is famous for. www.stage-entertainment.de

9 & 23

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SHOPPING SUNDAYSUNDAY In Germany, shops are usually closed on Sundays, protecting the religious day of rest and the interests of workers. Frustrating? Sometimes.

Behind the times in a world of 24-hour consumerism? A little.

However, for every rule there are exceptions. In Berlin, Sunday shopping afternoons (1–6pm) are planned about ten times a year, two of which are happening this month, perfectly timed for your Christmas shopping!

A TRIBUTE TO SINATRA & FRIENDS FROM TUESDAY

The Rat Pack is back! The three Britons Stephen Triffitt, Mark Adams, and George Daniel Long, impersonating Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, and Sammy Davis Jr., respectively, will be performing the three artists' greatest hits in their latest show, A Tribute To Sinatra & Friends. Do not miss this festive show at the architecturally impressive Theater am Potsdamer Platz. www.stage-entertainment.de

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HOT DATES

Hubba hubba! The Chippendales dancers show off their six packs on the Verti Music Hall stage.

It's the first night of Hanukkah: Join in the menorah lighting at Brandenburg Gate.

Relive the music of a legend at the Michael Jackson: The Symphony Experience show.

Brit singer Lily Allen performs her new, fourth album, No Shame, at ASTRA Kulturhaus.

One of pop's most recognizable sopranos, Mariah Carey sings tonight at Mercedes-Benz Arena.

The Disney in Concert show at Mercedes-Benz Arena promises fun for the whole family.

Classic crooners Air Supply perform a special show at Estrel Center this evening.

Fans of a good fight shouldn't miss the We Love MMA show at Mercedes-Benz Arena tonight.

Indie synth-pop group MGMT have a new album – hear it at Columbiahalle.

Philly indie band The War on Drugs plays new and older hits at Verti Music Hall.

Take a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie's popular (and free) "lunch concert" at 1pm.

Sip Glühwein and soak up the holiday spirit at Gendarmenmarkt's lovely Christmas market.

Stave off the cold with a few spins around the ice rink at Rotes Rathaus on Alexanderplatz.

Take in a performance of Bach's beautiful Christmas Oratorio inside the Berliner Dom cathedral.

Renowned conductor & pianist Daniel Barenboim plays Beethoven's sonatas at Pierre Boulez Saal.

The famed Vienna Boys Choir sings a selection of Christmas songs at Konzerthaus.

Enjoy a holiday classic: The Nutcracker, danced by the Staatsballett at Deutsche Oper.

Prefer contemporary dance? The Staatsballett puts on Celis | Eyal at the Komische Oper tonight.

Admire the thousands of twinkling lights at the Christmas Garden installation in Dahlem.

Feast on international delicacies at the Street Food Thursday event at Markthalle Neun.

Step right up! A Berlin holiday classic, the Roncalli Christmas Circus, begins today at Tempodrom.

The Harlem Gospel Night choir sings rousing holiday tunes at Apostel-Paulus Church.

Head to the Rykestraße synagogue for the final concert of the Louis Lewandowski Festival.

Squeeze in a final visit to the Christmas markets before everything shuts early for Christmas Eve. Merry Christmas! Celebrate with traditional music at Konzerthaus or Berliner Dom. Join Andrej Hermlin & His Swing Dance Orchestra for a jazzy Christmas concert at UdK Konzertsaal.

Catch the infectious percussion rhythms at the STOMP show at Admiralspalast.

The Staatsballett dances La Bayadère, a lesserknown classic by choreographer Marius Petipa.

The Tribute to Sinatra & Friends show at Theater Potsdamer Platz promises show tunes galore.

Head to the Komische Oper for a revival of the 1930s operetta Viktoria und ihr Husar.

Happy new year! Celebrate at the exuberant fireworks show at Brandenburg Gate.

CHAMÄLEON BERLIN, PSS PSS PHOTO BY SYLVIE BOSC; DECORATIVE ARTS FAIR: PHOTOS BY HENDRIKE ROERS, BIRGITTA A HAUER, KATHARINA IBANEZ/OLAF MEYER, MANFREDA MORTIMER MARTINA/LORENZ KIENZL; SINATRA & FRIENDS © PROMO; SWAN LAKE, ST. NICHOLAS' DAY, SUNDAY SHOPPING, SILVERSTERLAUF: © ISTOCK.

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

For more ideas, see our Entertainment section.

19/11/2018 10:17

AS TWILIGHT FALLS THE MAGIC BEGINS…

NEW TRAIL

BASED ON THE

ORIGINAL

• over 30 illuminations • with a fantastic final • incl. our lovely ice rink

„CHRISTMAS AT KEW“ IN LONDON!

15. Nov – 06. Jan BOTANICAL GARDEN BERLIN WWW.CHRISTMAS-GARDEN.DE

CULINARY HIGHLIGHTS – book your table now

Tickets are available at as well as at the box office at the Botanical Garden Berlin or at any established ticket agency. *(EUR 0.20 / call from a German landline / a maximum of EUR 0.60 / call from a German mobile line)

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WHERE NOW | HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

‘Tis the season

C

hristmas is more than a mere holiday in Berlin. It’s an extended celebration that lasts all month long, spreading warmth, color, and festive cheer throughout the city. For locals and tourists alike, the occasion is a much-needed beacon of light in the midst of the dark winter. With the vast variety of events and activities on offer, Berlin at Christmas offers something for every taste.

Whether you’re a fan of classic holiday celebrations or Christmas with a twist, read on for tips on everything you need to eat, drink, shop, and be merry throughout the holiday season.

KEEPING IT CLASSIC If it’s a traditional, classically German Christmas experience you crave, the natural place to start is one of the city’s myriad Christmas markets. The most well-visited

ones begin in late November and stay open every day until the end of December, like the one on Mitte’s Gendarmenmarkt (pictured) with the elegant domes of the square’s two churches serving as a backdrop. Though crowded, the picturesque setting and mix of food and craft vendors make this an enduringly popular spot all season long.

Another favorite is out west at Schloss Charlottenburg, where the grounds of the beautiful royal palace host an even bigger Christmas market seven days a week (closed Christmas Eve).

Besides shopping for gifts and soaking up the holiday spirit, the best part about Christmas markets is sampling all the seasonal treats. Keep toasty with a steaming mug of Glühwein (mulled wine) and a paper cone of gebrannte Mandeln (candied almonds) still warm from the roaster. Tip: Most markets will let you pay a deposit to

keep your Glühwein mug, which makes for a great souvenir.

Another perfect memento (and gift for everyone on your list) is a beautifully painted ornament from Käthe Wohlfahrt (Kurfürstendamm 225-226, www.kaethewohlfahrt.com). The west-end shop of the Bavarian-based ornament company is a Christmas wonderland, decked from top to bottom in whimsical decorations for the home and for the Tannenbaum.

Get off your feet and out of the cold with a performance of Bach’s Christmas Oratorio in the historic Berliner Dom cathedral. The six-part cantata series composed especially for Christmas brings together a Baroque orchestra with soaring choral accompaniment. This month, choose from three concert sessions spread over 14–15 December (visit www.berlinerdom.de for tickets). A more lighthearted yet equally

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GENDARMENMARKT, UNTER DEN LINDEN, GLÜHWEIN: © ISTOCK; BEARS: COURTESY OF KÄTHE WOHL-

Berlin’s biggest holiday celebrations of the year offer something for everyone, Hilda Hoy writes.

GENDARMENMARKT, UNTER DEN LINDEN, GLÜHWEIN: © ISTOCK; BEARS: COURTESY OF KÄTHE WOHLFAHRT; GOILDEN GOSPEL PEARLS: COURTESY OF THE GOLDEN GOSPEL PEARLS; AIGNER: COURTESY OF AIGNER; CHRISTMAS MARKET AND ICE SKATING: © VISIT BERLIN PHOTO BY WOLFGANG SCHOLVIEN; CHRISTMAS GARDEN © CHIRSTMAS GARDEN; BRANDENBURG GATE AND GOOSE: ©ISTOCK.

Clockwise from left: The Christmas market at Gendarmenmarkt; the Golden Gospel Pearls; ice-skating; Aigner; lights on Unter den Linden; Glühwein.

Below: Käthe Wohlfahrt.

beloved Berlin experience is the Harlem Gospel Night concert series, held several nights a week throughout the season at Schöneberg’s Apostel Paulus Church. Catch the rhythm, tap your toes, and sing along with Donna Brown and her Golden Gospel Pearls on tunes such as Go Tell It On The Mountain.

After the show, treat yourself to the classic holiday feast of roast goose, served with dumplings and stewed cabbage. Mitte’s Aigner (Französische Str. 25, www. aignergendarmenmarkt.de) serves a great goose platter close to the Gendarmenmarkt Christmas market, and Charlottenburg bistro Jules Verne (Schlüterstr. 61, www.julesverne-berlin.de) also does a stellar roast goose with local, free-range birds. www.wheretraveler.com 13

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WHERE NOW | HAPPY HOLIDAYS! CHRISTMAS WITH A TWIST If a less traditional holiday is your thing, plan a visit to some of the capital’s more inventive Christmas markets. Pet lovers won’t want to miss the Dog Christmas Market on the first weekend of the month at Forsthaus Paulsborn (1–2 December, www. hundeweihnachtsmarkt.berlin), featuring toys, outfits, and treats for our furry friends.

The Japanese Christmas Market will also be returning this year (8–9 December, www. japanischerweihnachtsmarktberlin.com) with a mix of food, entertainment, and gift ideas from the Far East including stationery, crafts, and ceramics. For an exhaustive selection of creative gift ideas, the Weihnachtsrodeo (Christmas Rodeo), taking place over the first three weekends of the month, will fill Kreuzberg’s Kühlhaus venue with a mix of local designers and artisans selling their wares (www.weihnachtsrodeo. de).

Forget stuffy old Christmas hymns – musician Andrej Hermlin’s Christmas In Swing concert is an annual Berlin favorite, setting jazzier tunes like Let It Snow to 1930s swing arrangements. Catch his show on 21 December at the Philharmonie’s chamber music hall. For an irreverent take on the Christmas parade, mark 15 December in your calendars: That’s the day of the annual Berlin Christmas Biketour (www.berlin-christmasbiketour.de), attracting hundreds of silly, makeshift Santas on motorbikes and mopeds, riding through the city to collect and deliver donations to charities through

the city. The route begins at 3pm in Steglitz and continues southwest through Neukölln – visit the website for more details.

For a delicious twist on Germany’s Christmas goose, how about some Peking duck? Mitte’s Chinese restaurant Jolly (Am Kupfergraben 4/4A, www.restaurant-jolly.de) does the best duck in town, painstakingly preparing the dish according to Chinese imperial banquet tradition to ensure moist, flavorful meat and beautifully crisp skin. The whole duck will be carved at your table and served with thin pancakes for rolling into bite-sized morsels.

A KIDFRIENDLY CHRISTMAS Childhood is when the most precious Christmas memories are forged, so be sure to plan in some activities for your little ones.

A twilight excursion to the Christmas Garden (www.christmas-garden.de) is a must – all month long, the grounds of the Dahlem Botanical Garden are transformed into a magical installation of twinkling lights, complete with cozy campfires for warming up and sweet and savory snacks along the route. The annual Roncalli Christmas Circus (www.roncalli.de) is another treat for the whole family, with silly clowns and jawdropping acrobats delivering plenty of thrills in a red-striped big-top tent at Tempodrom.

The magical world of the Sugar Plum Fairy comes to life on stage at the Deutsche Oper when the Berlin Staatsballett dances The Nutcracker (www.staatsballett-berlin.de) over seven performances this month. The set

and costumes are based on the templates from the original Russian staging of the 1890s, promising to deliver nostalgic beauty.

But before making your kids sit through the 2.5-hour ballet performance, it’s best to help them expend some extra energy first.

The Winterwelt at Potsdamer Platz is just the place, with a 12-meter-high, 70-meter-long ice slide constructed amongst the skyscrapers. The “snowtubes” for rent send daredevils zipping down the steep slope.

There’s also a free, spacious ice rink to let kids (and adults) blow off some steam. The Christmas market at Alexanderplatz’s Rotes Rathaus has a free skating rink as well, not to mention a looming ferris wheel that kids are sure to love.

For a rather more bucolic excursion with the kids, head to the advent market at Domäne Dahlem (www.domaene-dahlem.de), on every weekend until Christmas. The show farm is an open-air museum dedicated to teaching kids where our food comes from.

Besides stands selling handicrafts and organic products, the market offers pony rides and crafting for the little ones. Special activities like cookie-baking and beeswax candlemaking require advance registration.

This photo: Christmas Garden.

Right: Traditional roast goose.

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WHERE NOW | FESTIVE DRINKS

MULL THESE OVER

Get festive with an array of classic holiday drinks.

Joe Stange leads the way.

H

many markets have it—including, usually, the market on Gendarmenmarkt. It usually relies more on citrus than cinnamon and clove.

FEUERZANGENBOWLE is a drink combined with entertainment. Why? Because fire is entertaining. It should begin with a good Glühwein recipe. Then a cone of sugar that’s been soaked in high-proof rum is set it on fire. Those blue flames are quite a sight on a dark, cold night. The bigger the punch bowl, the bigger the show, though some market stands will give you a special spoon and mug to do it yourself. It’s all very Instagrammable.

Eventually the sugar and the rum end up in your mug and then in you.

ALL PHOTOS: © ISTOCK.

ere is your quest, should you choose to accept it: Tour Berlin this holiday season and see how many different winter drinks you can collect in your belly. (Not all at once, please.) Some you’ll find at nearly any Christmas market, others require more of a keen eye. Happy hunting.

GLÜHWEIN, or warm mulled wine: If you’re at a Christmas market that doesn’t have any, then you’re not in Germany. It doesn’t matter which Weihnachtsmarkt—you can trust that there will be at least one stand selling Glühwein or, more likely, several of them. Red wine is warmed—not too hot, or else that precious alcohol evaporates—with spices such as cinnamon, cloves, anise, or citrus peel.

Typically the wine is sweet or sweetened with sugar. Done well, it produces the true flavour of Weihnachtszeit. Done poorly, it is a recipe for serious headaches.

For those who would prefer their Glühwein to be more wine (and better wine), and less sugar and spice, try Lutter & Wegner on Gendarmenmarkt (Charlottenstr. 56), a wine dealer, wine bar and restaurant that’s only been going since 1811.

WEISSER GLÜHWEIN is a variation made from white wine instead of red.

It’s not as popular nor as common, but

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NEW YEARS EVE 2018 | 19

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OR ASK YOUR CONCIERGE

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WHERE NOW | FESTIVE DRINKS

PUNSCH is punch, as you might have guessed, and it is more difficult to define because nearly anything goes. At German Christmas markets it may be Glühwein or warmed fruit juices, which are then spiked with alcohol—rum, brandy, schnapps, that sort of thing. KINDERPUNSCH is the warm fruit drink without the booze, so kids can join in the fun.

EIERPUNSCH is egg punch, fairly common at the Christmas markets. Whereas North Americans prefer their eggnog to be nice and cool, German egg punch tends to be served warm. Besides egg yolks it typically includes white wine, rum, sugar, cinnamon, and lemon juice. It’s, er, an acquired taste.

HEISSE SCHOKOLADE is simply hot chocolate, probably with whipped cream on top. The kids never complain, but the instant stuff sold at most market stands is probably inferior to what you make at home. It improves considerably when rum is added, when it

might be called Lumumba—named for the former Congolese leader in what is probably an example of casual racism. For a wider variety of hot chocolate recipes from all over the world, pay a visit to Winterfeldt Schokoladen (Goltzstr. 23). They even serve sample-sized portions should you want to try them all.

BERLINER WEISSE MIT STRIPPE takes the local sourish beer style and, instead of a sweet syrup, adds a shot of caraway schnapps.

The beer remains refreshingly tart while the caraway flavor and alcohol add toasty flavor and warm the belly. Surprisingly addictive and, therefore, somewhat dangerous. A good place to try it is Zum Nußbaum, a cosy old-fashioned pub in the Nikolaiviertel (Am Nußbaum 3).

Allied bombing destroyed the original pub in 1943, along with the rest of the old quarter, but East Germany re-created it in 1987. Darkly wooded with nooks and crannies, it’s a warm place to hide on a winter’s day.

WEIHNACHTSBIERE are Christmas beers, and some breweries make special ones just for the season. Often they are a bit stronger than usual and might be called Bock, Weihnachtsbock, Festbock, or something along those lines. A great shop to find a wide range of them is Hopfen & Malz in Wedding (Triftstr. 57; www.hopfenmalz.de).

Just down the street from that shop, the excellent Eschenbräu brewpub (Triftstr.

67) has a cozy barroom and brews a special strong and hoppy beer for winter called Alter Schwede. Literally that means “Old Swede,” but it’s a German colloquialism that means “wow”—which might be something you say after having a few.

ALL PHOTOS: © ISTOCK.

IF YOU ARE AT A CHRISTMAS MARKET THAT DOESN’T HAVE GLÜHWEIN, THEN YOU ARE NOT IN GERMANY.

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WHERE NOW | TRAVEL GIFTS

EXPLORE THE WORLD

Soft hands, always.

Aromatique Hand Balm Aesop, Forster Str. 47.

Weekend getaway?

Navyboot, Kurfürstendamm 40/41.

They say traveling is the only thing you buy that makes you richer.

Here are some gift ideas for all the adventure lovers out there.

Time to go to the gym!

Mammut Bahnbogen 98, Dircksenstr.

Colorful, resistant, trustworthy.

Rimowa Tauentzienstr. 21-24.

Scents to dream of faraway lands.

RSVP Mulackstr. 14.

Smallest earphones, greatest sound.

Sennheiser Tauentzienstraße 17.

Be punctual with this classy Omega watch.

Juwelier Leicht im Hotel Adlon.

Unter den Linden 77.

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WHERE NOW | TRAVEL GIFTS

Have a stylish flight!

MCM cabin trolley Kurfürstendamm 186.

A coat for all weather conditions Mammut Bahnbogen 98, Dircksenstr.

Take your music with you with these QuietComfort 35 wireless headphones.

Bose Tauentzienstraße 21-24.

A perfume set by Frau Tonis Zimmerstr. 13.

Warm drinks, wherever you are.

Globetrotter Schloßstr. 78

Trendy travels with American Tourister.

Samsonite Friedrichstr. 172.

Take notes, write letters, describe the world.

RSVP Mulackstr. 14.

www.wheretraveler.com 21

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WHERE NOW | CONCIERGE

Ask the

CONCIERGE

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierges. Michael Vogt, chef concierge at Hotel Bristol and music expert, is here to help. www.lcdg.org

What is the opera audience like in Berlin?

In Berlin, the focus is clearly on the music. As a general rule you can attend concerts dressed casually, the exception being big premieres or special holidays, when people tend to dress up. This is also due to the mix of people you’ll find in a typical Berlin audience – lots of visitors and older regulars, as well as many students and young people. Of course, this always depends on the program, but overall the audience is very open-minded and likes to focus on the art.

What operas or concerts would you recommend this month?

This month, the Staatsoper will be presenting its fabulous Baroque Days, followed by Beethoven's Fidelio with Wagner tenor Klaus-Florian Vogt. At the Komische Oper, you shoudn't miss Candide and Anatevka (Fiddler on the Roof), while the Deustche Oper will be saying goodbye to soprano Edita Gruberová, currently on her very last tour. And since it's almost Christmas, why not elevate our souls with sacred music? I highly recommend Händel's Messiah oratorio, conducted by Robin Ticciati, or the first three cantatas of Bach's Christmas Oratorio (cond. Jörg-Peter Weigle) at the Philharmonie. For something a bit different, head to Tempodrom to see the Roncalli circus show, combined with a music performance by the Deutsche Symphonie Orchester.

Any secret tips for classical music lovers?

The holidays are getting closer and most of the bigger concerts are sold out, but music lovers should not worry. At this time of year, the church communities offer high-quality music and a fabulous local experience.

Check out the program at the Berliner Dom, for example, or the chamber music concerts in the smaller music halls of the Philharmonie and Konzerthaus, or at the fabulous Pierre-Boulez-Saal.

And for the real Berlin experience this New Year's Eve, here's what you should do: explore the city with your friends, count the seconds to midnight, and hug, and watch the fireworks at Europe's biggest New Year's party at Brandenburg Gate. You've got to experience it at least once in your lifetime.

From above right to bottom: Leonard Bernstein's Candide, Komische Oper; New Year's Eve at Brandenburg Gate; The Staatsoper's orchestra.

YOUR CONCIERGE IS HAPPY TO HELP!

Talk to your concierge if you need assistance with restaurant reservations, concert tickets, arranging spa services, booking transportation, or simply to ask for recommendations.

CANDIDE: PHOTO BY JAN WINDSZUS PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF KOMISCHE OPER. STAATSOPER ORCHESTRA: PHOTO BY HOLGER KETTNER; BRANDENBURG GATE: © ISTOCK.

Do you think Berlin is a musical city?

Yes, absolutely. It has a great musical past but also a diverse musical present, with three large opera houses and ensembles as well as numerous smaller groups and soloists.

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just 60 km from Berlin

Take a break

Beach, water, palm trees – 26°C every day and fantastic accommodation

The Tropical Islands Resort A unique tropical holiday resort – offering fun and relaxation all year round!

Just off the A13, Staakow exit Brand Tropical Islands railway station free shuttle bus

www.tropical-islands.de/en

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE Kollwitz45

Ölmühle an der Havel

Kollwitz45

Local Shopping BLEIBTREUSTRASSE Walking down this quiet shopping street in the well-heeled district of Charlottenburg, it’s hard to imagine this was the location of a bloody shootout between members of the West Berlin red-light mafias in the ‘70s.

Nowadays, the street is lined with statuesque buildings and high-class stores, pushed into the side streets from nearby Ku’damm. Pick up an artful hat creation at Chapeaux Hutmode Berlin (no. 51), a stylish teapot at P & T (no. 4), or paint your own ceramic at Paint Your Style (no. 46) for a unique gift that can’t be returned!

BERGMANNSTRASSE The lively heart of Kreuzberg, Bergmannstraße, is made for browsing, with more shopping and dining options than you can fit into a single visit. The fulcrum of the area is Marheineke Markthalle, one of the city’s few remaining market halls and the place to go for gourmet presents. Ölmühle an der Havel

(no. 104), sells spices and oils for cooking enthusiasts, while Herrlich (no. 2), Germany’s first concept store for men’s gifts, offers unique trinkets that beat socks any day.

GOLTZSTRASSE David Bowie and Marlene Dietrich weren’t the only ones to notice Schöneberg’s charm.

While the clubs that were here in the 1980s have moved to the trendier East, Goltzstraße remains an urban oasis of cafés and small shops. Visit Mimi Textile Antiquitäten (no. 5) for fashion treasures from past centuries, Winterfeldt Schokoladen (no.

23) and Mamsell (no. 48) for all things sweet, including the prettiest collection of kitchen accessories, and Mobilien (no. 13B) for a colorful, quirky take on everyday items that will bring a smile to anyone’s face.

P&T

KOLLWITZSTRASSE Once the epicenter of working-class Berlin, this Prenzlauer Berg Kiez has undergone significant gentrification over the past few years and is now characterized by beautiful, old buildings, pleasant cafés, and a mix of hip stores and boutiques. Check out Kollwitz45 (no. 45) for classy interior design items and L’etage (no. 45) next door for the finest Italian leather crafted into delicate women’s shoes and handbags.

MULACKSTRASSE Although the street itself is not particularly pretty, this is Berlin’s most fashionable street where many local designers have their boutiques and ateliers, including iconic brand Lala Berlin (no. 7) and Hotel Paris (no. 4), a lovely store selling Parisian fashion.

COURTESY OF P & T, ÖLMÜHLE AN DER HAVEL, KOLLWITZ45.

Yes, the convenience of a mall is hard to beat. But really, if you’ve seen one mall, you’ve seen them all.

Annabelle Mallia sought out the picturesque neighborhood shopping streets.

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SHOPPING

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information.

However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 71-73.

OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead.

Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year.

Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm.

TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights.

Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer).

Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm.

TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS Alexa

COURTESY OF ORIGINAL WALD KÖNIGSBERGER MARZIPAN; BACKGROUND IMAGE: © ISTOCK, GOLDSQUIRREL.

Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com.

Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de.

Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940.

U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

T: 030.209480.

U Französische Straße. E3

Galeria Kaufhof

The biggest and oldest department store in continental Europe sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr.

21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

One of the biggest department stores in Germany, this flagship of a national chain features 36,000 sq. m. of shopping across six floors. With trendsetting global fashion labels and footwear, sporting, lifestyle, and beauty brands, plus a children's world and expansive gourmet section, there's truly something for everyone – right in the heart of the city. www.kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78.

KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Westens)

Mall of Berlin 300 shops on four floors, a gym, and pedestrian areas define the Mall of Berlin at Leipziger Platz – a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist highlights. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes to accessories and design objects.

Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de.

Sweet Family Secret Once upon a time, around a century ago, there existed a city called Königsberg. The city, then part of East Prussia, was famous for its marzipan-making tradition, with exquisitely molded and flamed marzipan confections, often containing rose water and boasting elaborate decorations including candied cherries and pistiachios. Königsberg is now part of Russia and its name was changed to Kaliningrad, but its old marzipan tradition is still alive in Berlin thanks to a man named Paul Wald, who brought his secret family recipe to Berlin before WWII broke. In 1947, Wald and his wife opened a tiny shop in Charlottenburg, Original Wald Königsberger Marzipan. With its pink-striped wallpaper, pictures from Königsberg, portraits of the Wald couple, and a cabinet full of these old-fashioned treats, the shop has been doing a roaring trade ever since. The recipe has not changed and every piece of marzipan is still made by hand by Wald's descendants, who use only natural ingredients of the very best quality. The result is a piece of childhood for many local customers.

Pestalozzistr. 54a. T: 030.3238254. www.wald-koenigsberger-marzipan.com

BIKINI BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN combines shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin's west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace.

But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frequently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin.de.Budapester Str. 38-50.

T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com.

Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040.

Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton www.wheretraveler.com 25

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1 7

2

6 8

9

3

KNITTED OUT

4

Get warm and cozy with our selection of winter woollies.

5

1. Mes Demoiselles, Hotel Paris, Mulackstr. 4. 2. Codello, Mall of Berlin. Voßstr. 35.

3. Talbot Runhof, Schlüterstr. 50. 4. and 5. Unützer, Giesebrechtstr. 10.

6. Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin. Voßstr. 35. 7. Mes Demoiselles, Hotel Paris, Mulackstr. 4.

8. Marc O'Polo, Kurfürstendamm 220. 9. Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin. Voßstr. 35.

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ellen eisemann

Fashion Week Berlin New Collection Autumn/Winter 2019/20 Showroom Ellen Eisemann 15. - 18. January 2019 10:00 am - 08:00 pm Monumentenstr. 33-34 10829 Berlin B2B please contact info@ellen-eisemann.com

New arrivals Spring/Summer 2019 Shops in Berlin Meyer & Nehls Bleibtreustr. 13 10623 Berlin

Hirschmann Mode GĂźntzelstr. 43 14057 Berlin

Tatem

Oranienburger Str. 32 10117 Berlin Zeltinger Platz 1a 13505 Berlin Stargarder Str. 78 10437 Berlin

Belushis

Baseler Str. 1 12205 Berlin

Leder Art

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SHOPPING Alte Potsdamer Str. 7.

T: 030.2559270.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6.

T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

FASHION

Gobi Cashmere

Annette Görtz Inspired by geometric lines and the use of "non-colors" such as black, beige, white, and gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines comfort with understated elegance. www.annettegoertzcom. T: 030 20074613.

Markgrafenstr. 42. U Stadtmitte. E3

Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr.

28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220.

T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Beatrice von Tresckow Sumptuous, elegant, somewhat extravagant.

Beatrice Von Tresckow women's clothes are lively and colorful, an eye-catching addition to any wardrobe. www.beatricevontresckow.com, Leibnizstr. 60. T: 030 308318.

U Adenauer Platz. C4 With rule-breaking elements and a timeless soul, this Berlin-born fashion label makes perfectly cut leather jackets and a variety of accessories meant for rebellious and cheeky boys and girls. www.be.edgy.de. Bleibtreustr. 27.

T: 0176.61137540. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Boggi Milano

By Women For Women Female empowerment is an important topic for many women, and it certainly matters a lot to Berlin entrepreneur Charissa Chioccarelli. When planning her shop in Mitte a little over a year ago, she decided to create a hangout where like-minded women could come together in their united love for beauty, fashion, and music. ISLA, Charissa's little island in Mitte, is everything from nailbar to event space and fashion store – a place where women can regenerate, get their nails done with the help of highly skilled nail technicians, shop for clothes with an attitude, and even play a DJ set on the state-of-the-art equipment.

Towards the back of the store there is also an event space, hosting readings, screenings, workshops, and more.

Inselstr. 13. T: 0152 56772240. www.islaberlin.com

Goldsteg Designer Outlet This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8.

T: 030 51307933. S Savignyplatz. B4

Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany.

Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61.

See website for more locations.

T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

Marina Rinaldi

Born inside the Max Mara fashion group in 1980, this label stocks a collection of garments and The Ku'damm was West accessories for the curvier woman Berlin's most important and represents a turning point in the shopping strip during history of women’s apparel. www. the Cold War. marinarinaldi.com. Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations).

T: 030.88554046.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Blue Tomato

Max Mara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com.

Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations). T: 030.8852545.U Adenauerplatz. B4

Mientus

No matter if you're cruising on snow, water, or asphalt, this sports store has everything a rider’s heart desires. From snowboards, skateboards, and surfboards to the finest selection of streetwear, sneakers, and accessories from top brands like Burton, Volcom and Vans, this is a real boarder's paradise. www.blue-tomato.com. Nürnberger Str. 13. T: 030.21966647. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

One of the largest providers of exclusive fashion in Germany. Four levels housing collections from top international designers like Dolce & Gabbana, Moncler, and Gucci. www.mientus.com. Wilmersdorfer Str. 73.

T: 030.3239077.

U Wilmersdorfer Straße, S Charlottenburg. B4

By Anne

Patrick Hellmann

By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31.

T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com.

Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711.

U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Cotélac

With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de.

Alte Schönhauser Str. 41.

T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye

Rebecca Store

COURTESY OF ISLA.

Be Edgy

The first European store of this luxury Mongolian cashmere manufacturer opened in December 2016 to bring organic, high-quality cashmere fashion and fabrics produced in Asia to the highest standards. www.shop-gobi.com/en/.

Knesebeckstr. 30. T: 030.22466513.

U Uhlandstraße. E2

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German designer Annette Görtz’s avant-garde fashion creations are truly timeless, natural, and a compliment to modern-day women.

This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com.

Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Talbot Runhof Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof launched their label in Munich but have since gone global, branching out from glamorous evening gowns into everyday outfits and accessories. Discover the comprehensive range of dresses, separates, and knitwear, plus shoes and accessories in their Charlottenburg boutique.

A brand hallmark is the complex, precise cuts and unusual seam placement used to create feminine, flattering silhouettes. Schlüterstr. 50.

T: 030 23363170. www.talbotrunhof.com.

U Uhlandstraße, S Savignyplatz. B4

Trüffelschwein The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed – he simply looks good, with a collection of small niche brands from London, Paris, and New York. www.trueffelschweinberlin.com.

Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21.

T: 030.70221225.

U Weinmeisterstr. F2

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com.

Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3

Wellensteyn Founded in Germany 60 years ago as a brand for workers, Wellensteyn is now a high-class label for quality technical jackets that are also stylish, as well as other items for the outdoor life. www.wellensteyn.com. Europa Center.

Tauentzienstr. 9-, 12.

T: 030.23927186.

U Kurfürstendamm. C4. Grunerstr. 20.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 T: 030.27583926.

Friedrichstr. 58. T: 40744747. U Stadtmitte. E3

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy

to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Zalando Outlet The popular online shopping fashion market has a large outlet store in Berlin, featuring 1000 square meters of fashion and accessories from the world's top brands, sold at even lower prices. www.zalando.de. Köpenicker Str. 20.

T: 0800.3300996.

U Schlesiches Tor. G4

SHOES & ACCESSORIES Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 was based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print.

Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories by many other brands round off the offering. www. boots-and-shoes.de. Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.92031876. S + U Zoologischer Garten.

COURTESY OF ANNETTE GÖRTZ

Strellson

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SIZING GUIDE SHOES US

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CLOTHES Euro

US

UK

WOMEN 3 4 5 6 7 8

5 6 7 8 9 10

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MEN 7 8 9 10 11 12

Coat by Beatrice von Tresckow (Leibnizstr. 60), shoes by Unützer (Giesebrechtstr. 10).

C4 Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Falke Flagship Store This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36.

T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12.

T: 030.20647995.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors.com. Kurfürstendamm 219.

T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37.

T: 030.24088690. F2

New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world.

There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www.neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7.

T: 030.27890578.

Hackescher Markt. F2

Pikolinos Designed with traditional artisan craftsmanship and the latest in comfort footwear technology, this shoe brand offers classic options for everyday wear, inspired by its Spanish roots and the

8 9 10 11 12 13

8 9 10 11 12 13

34 36 38 40 42 44

S M L

Unützer Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www.unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10.

T: 030.88916710.

U Uhlandstraße. C4

JEWELRY & WATCHES Since 1906, ARIS has been specializing in diamond jewelry, delivering everything from pendants, necklaces, and earrings, to fabulous engagement rings.

Got a special occasion coming up? Check up their new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. www. arisdiamond.com. www.mallofberlin.de.

Need a holiday card with a twist? Head to stationery shop RSVP (Mulackstr. 26)

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

CHILDREN 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5

Mediterranean lifestyle. www.pikolinos.com.

Kurfürstendamm 216.

Uhlandstraße. C4

Aris Diamond

34 36 38 40 42 44

MEN (CHEST) 41 42 43 45 46 47

CHILDREN 7 8 9 10 11 12

Euro

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Boutique Cartier Founded in Paris in 1847, Cartier is one of the world’s most esteemed designers of luxury jewelry and watches, with a long history of sales to royalty and celebrities. www.cartier.de. Kurfürstendamm 188–189. T: 030.8867060. U Uhlandstraße, U Adenauerplatz. B4

Bucherer With a dedicated Rolex and Patek Philippe corner, and a wide range of other prestigious watch brands, as well as exclusive jewelry creations, the Bucherer store provides customers with first-class service and a unique shopping experience. www.bucherer.com.

Friedrichstr.176-179.

T: 030.2041049.

U Französische Straße E3; Kurfürstendamm 45.T: 030.8804030.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

Bodo Dilg Goldschmiede A master in the jewelry field, Bodo Dilg creates unique pieces of contemporary jewelry using gold and precious stones against a backdrop of historical stucco and cement tiles.

An essential stop for soon to wed partners. www.bodo-dilg.de.

Grolmanstr. 30/31.

T: 030 88675355.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

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Festive creations.

Give the gift of unforgettable chocolate moments! Our original FreshChocolate and many more sweet masterpieces are waiting to bring joy to someone special. Exclusively available in all Läderach Chocolateries or online.

Läderach Chocolateries Tauentzienstrasse 4, Berlin Friedrichstrasse 181, Berlin laederach.ch

Perfume by Birkholz (Knesebeckstr. 55).

18LAEDER 23.32 Inserat Weihnachten Berlin Magazin where_EN.indd 1

M E R RY CHRISTMAS

Juwelier Leicht im Hotel Adlon This jewelry shop has its own manufactory and also carries luxurious brands like Omega, Glashütte Original, and more. Check out Leicht’s marvelous creations, each uniquely manufactured with gold and precious stones. www.leicht-jewellery.com. Unter den Linden 77.

T: 030.2290212.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

15.11.18 10:15

MO - SA 10am - 9pm ALEXA AT ALEXANDERPLATZ OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA SUNDAY SHOPPING: 09.12. & 23.12. | 1 PM – 6 PM

ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com.

Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Schmelter Juwelen Pearls and diamonds define this jewelry store near the Ku’damm. Have a look at the marvelous collection of Schoeffel pearl colliers, many of which are made with exquisite Tahitian pearls. www.schmelter-juwelen.de.

Uhlandstr. 167-168.

T: 030.8815671.

U Uhlandstraße. B/C4

A L E X AC E N T R E .CO M

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LUXURY BRANDS CHOPARD

AIGNER

www.chopard.com Kurfürstendamm 54.

T: 030 70096980.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

www.aignermunich.com.

Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683668.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

BALLY

ESCADA

www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52.

T: 030.88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4

www.escada.com.

Kurfürstendamm 195.

T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196.

T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165.

T: 030.20613890.

U Französische Straße. E3

MAURICE LACROIX www.mauricelacroix.de. Friedrichstr. 166.

T: 030.33024852.

U Französische Straße. E3

MCM www.mcmworldwide.com.

Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793.

S Hackescher Markt. F2

BUCHERER www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45.

T: 030.2041049. U Kochstraße. E4

ROLEX

BULGARI

www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.55669010.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030.8857920.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170.

T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3

WEMPE www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.8826878.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

HOME DÉCOR

Babor

Home on Earth

Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48.

T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3

Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354.

S Hackescher Markt F2

Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com.

Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4

Liquidrom Treat yourself to a blissful evening, with an outdoor spa, a thermal bath with mood lighting and underwater music, and five different saunas. Best of all are the infusions which take place in the Finnish sauna on the hour, or the honey and salt body scrubs. www.liquidrom-berlin.de. Möckernstr. 10.

T: 030.258007820. U Möckernbrücke. E4

Nivea Haus Nivea is Latin for snow white. At the flagship store of this German beauty powerhouse you can browse the entire product range, sign up for a consultation, or get a quick massage or facial. www.nivea.de/Haus.

Unter den Linden 28. T: 030.20456160.

S+U Friedrichstraße, U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Parfumsalon An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de.

Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3

Kiran Kelim & Teppich Kunst Kiran has been importing rugs for more than 40 years, and the curated selection includes vintage and contemporary kilims, some self-designed pieces, as well the gorgeous Rug Star design rugs. www.kelim.de. Stilwerk, 3rd floor. Kantstr. 17.

S Savignyplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Pylones These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun.

The designers especially like to choose zoomorphic themes, which means that nutcrackers look like cats and watering cans like birds. www.pylones.com.

Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

FOOD & GOURMET Läderach Exquisite Swiss chocolates from a family-run company with the highest standards for quality and craftsmanship. Shop for irresistible pralines, truffles, figurines, nut-filled chocolate bark sold by weight, and much more in Berlin’s two Läderach boutiques: in the west-end just across from the monumental KaDeWe, and on Mitte’s Friedrichstraße.

Tauentzienstr. 4. T:030.20837679. Friedrichstr. 81.

T: 030.80492457. www.laederach.com. E3

Markthalle Neun Built in 1891 and one of only three historic market halls remaining in Berlin, Markthalle IX has undergone a revival in recent years, now hosting a farmers’ market every Friday and Saturday from 10am to 6pm. Check the website for other foodie events, like the popular Street Food Thursdays and periodic cheese and sweets markets. www.markthalle9.de. Eisenbahnstr. 42-43.

T: 030.577094661. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Mampe Spirituosen The famous Berlin-based liquor company has a new home in the Bergmannkiez. Browse the shelves of the shop for great bottles to bring home. shop.mampe.berlin. Am Tempelhofer Berg 6.

T: 030. 208484470.

U Platz der Luftbrücke. E3

Rausch Schokoladenhaus This is Berlin’s undisputed temple of chocolate.

As if the longest chocolate counter in the world weren’t enough, the shop also features eyepopping displays of chocolate masterpieces, like a model of the Reichstag made from 300 kg of dark chocolate. www.fassbender-rausch.de.

Charlottenstr. 60. T: 030.20458443.

U Stadtmitte. E3

ELECTRONICS Sennheiser This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. The cuttingedge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www.sennheiser.com.

Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030.23630162.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4

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ADVERTORIALS

SHOP STOP

HACKESCHER MARKT AND MITTE Rosenthaler Platz

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All labels stand for history, quality, and individual personality. At boots & shoes you will find Dr. Martens, Converse, Hunter and Blundstone shoes in many designs and colors, matching your style.

Dircksenstr. 49.

T: 030 28045275 www.boots-and-shoes.de S Hackescher Markt SHOP STOP

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Marooush LIETZENBURG

Looking for a new cap? The world's leading headwear brand is now the official headwear of the NBA. Check out the latest New Era NBA collection at the New Era store in Berlin.

An der Spandauer Brücke 7.

T: 030 27890578 de.neweracap.eu

JOACHIMSTHALER STR.

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An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19thcentury German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating.

The C/O Berlin photography gallery (Hardenbergstraße 22-24, www.co-berlin.org)

Rosenthaler Str. 40-41.

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ADVERTORIALS

AUDIO EXPERIENCE

Visit us Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm

Sennheiser Store Berlin

Tauentzienstr. 17 - 10789 Berlin S-Bahn/U-Bahn Zoologischer Garten U-Bahn Wittenbergplatz

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BIKINI BERLIN

Bikini Berlin is all about fashion, design and good vibes. The concept shopping mall is renowned for its lovingly curated stores, as well as a number of pop-up boxes where brands can launch new products. Another highlight is the Kantini food market, serving up culinary delights from various different countries.

Budapester Str. 38–50. T: 030 55496455 www.bikiniberlin.de

SHOP STOP

W

SHOP STOP

PARFUMSALON

BOOTS & SHOES

This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas.

Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

All labels stand for history, quality, and individual personality. At boots & shoes you will find Dr. Martens, Converse, Hunter and Blundstone shoes in many designs and colors, matching your style.

Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50.

T: 030 92031876 www.boots-and-shoes.de S+U Zoologischer Garten

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FRIEDRICHSTRASSE

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MO HR EN ST R. MEISSEN im Hilton Stadtmitte/U2 Gudrun Sjödén

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The famous Parisian department store brings French charm and style to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies.

Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207 where you can also shop at Gucci, Opera‘s, Le Nails, Sathea, Cashmere House, Manon Chocolaterie, La Librairie and Galeries Lafayette Outlet.

Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030 209480. galerieslafayette.de SHOP STOP

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Evelin Brandt Crines Design Mephisto

Beauty meets science at this skincare institute. Owner and cosmetics expert Christiane Lingner offers high-level treatments such as deluxe facials, skin analyses, purifying sessions, manicures, pedicures, as well as intensive and strengthening treatments for the gentlemen.

Head to the flagship store for vitamin-rich serums and foundations with a lifting effect.

Französische Str. 48. T: 030 20622222 www.babor-berlin.de

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FRAU TONIS PARFUM This perfume boutique has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery. Try contemporary scents such as OUD Weiss or classics such as Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance. For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume.

Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie).

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MALL OF BERLIN

COS

HALLHUBER

Marc O’Polo

Replay

Deichmann

Hollister

MASSIMO DUTTI

Rich & Royal

Tezenis

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HUGO BOSS

Mavi

Runners Point

THOMAS SABO

Dogo Shoes

Hunkemöller

MAX & CO.

S & D sons and

Tom Tailor

Einblick Optik

INTIMISSIMI

Mephisto

daughters

TOMMY HILFIGER

Engelsrufer & Co.

Jack & Jones

Muji

Esprit

JD Sports

NAVYBOOT

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

Serene Tseng explores the capital’s historic urban sights.

There’s no city that embodies the word “urban” quite like Berlin does. In this city, street art brings life to otherwise ordinary building facades, and history seems to live on, even in abandoned places. Berlin is all at once historic, artsy, raw, and gritty.

For years, the URBAN NATION art collective has used large-scale murals and public workshops around town to deliver art to people of different cultures who may not visit a museum otherwise. Works by URBAN NATION can be found all over Berlin, and specific locations are listed on www.urban-nation.com.

A year ago, all of the collective's efforts converged into the Urban Nation Museum (Bülowstr. 7), Berlin's first street art museum.

Combining the conventional museum experience and contemporary urban creations,

the Urban Nation Museum has art spilling from within the museum onto the building’s exterior.

For a totally different experience, head to Holzmarkt (www.holzmarkt.com), born from the ashes of the legendary Bar25. Constructed of recycled windows, bricks, metal, and wood, Holzmarkt is a self-sustaining urban village where visitors of all ages, from toddlers to older folks, are invited to contribute to Berlin’s alternative culture. Food stalls and restaurants share space with playgrounds, chiropractor and yoga studios, event spaces, and bars, all on the Spree’s banks.

Nearby, the R.A.W. Gelände (www. raw-gelaende.de) shares the same artsy sentiment. For more than a century, the grounds were home to a train maintenance station before its reincarnation in 1999. Today,

vibrant art decorates the warehouse walls, where beer gardens, cafes, and concert venues make their home. For those of us who are also foodies, the grounds often host street food festivals.

For a hybrid urban-nature sight, Teufelsberg (www.teufelsberg-berlin.de) is not to be missed. When WWII ended, rubble from the war-torn capital was trucked for decades to this western area of Berlin and dumped. The 120-meter-tall artificial hill then became a listening station for British and American soldiers to spy on Eastern Bloc communication.

When the Cold War ended, there was no further need for spying, so the soldiers left, and the abandoned building became a huge draw for graffiti artists who have transformed the spherical dishes into ghostly galleries.

TEUFELSBERG: © ISTOCK; URBAN NATION MUSEUM: COURTESY OF URBAN NATION MUSEUM.

Open-Air Museum

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SIGHTSEEING

MAJOR SIGHTS The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a.

T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members.

Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue.

Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from

the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots.

U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24.

T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Gendarmenmarkt The harmonious square was named after the gens d’armes, a Prussian army regiment of French Huguenots. Designed in the late 1600s, it includes two symmetrical cathedrals, one French and the other German, and the majestic Konzerthaus.

In the middle of the square stands a monument to Germany’s most acclaimed poet of all time, Friedrich Schiller.

U Französische Straße, Stadtmitte. E3

Hackesche Höfe This series interconnected courtyards is a great example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating.

Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Haus der Kulturen der Welt Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals because of its curvy shape, the Haus der Kulturen der Welt was built as a congress hall in 1956. The building quickly became a symbol of western freedom and creativity, in contrast to East German architectural projects of the time. Computer-guided chime concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm and the building now hosts concerts and intercultural events. Open daily 10am–7pm. € prices vary. www.hkw.de. John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10.

T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche This church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and a symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church’s ruins now host an exhibition of before and after photos documenting its former splendor and showing the Ku’damm before the bombs. Look up to admire

Flying High

© ISTOCK.

Flying must be the ultimate superpower. The closest we humans can get is skydiving, which probably scares the pants off most. Alternatively, indoor skydiving or “bodyflying” enables you to experience the feeling of free fall without having to jump out of an airplane, inside the safety of a glass wind tunnel. Berlin now has two such locations: Windobona Indoor Skydiving Berlin is conveniently located in Mitte, but Hurricane Factory a little further out is Germany’s largest wind tunnel. Instead of the common 4.3 meters, their chamber has a diameter of 5.2 meters, a height of 15 meters, and wind speeds of up to 280 km/h – comparable to free-falling during a 4000-meter skydive. Both locations have a range of packages and flying times, catering to everyone from beginners to more experienced skydivers who want to practice their maneuvers. Everything you need to know will be explained before your flight and everyone above the age of five (and weighing no more than 120 kg/265 lb) can learn to fly.

Windobona: Landsberger Allee 268. T: 030 809334140. www.windobona.berlin Hurricane Factory: Wassmannsdorfer Allee 3. T: 33793217380. www.hurricanefactory.com

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SIGHTSEEING what is left of the old mosaic. Open daily from 9am to 6pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de.

Breitscheidplatz.T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, Kurfürstendamm. C4

New Synagogue Before the war, this Moorish-Byzantine-style synagogue was Berlin’s largest Jewish place of worship. The synagogue was seriously damaged during the infamous Kristallnacht pogroms in 1938, while Allied bombs gave it the coup de grace in 1943. The exotic gold dome is today the icon of Berlin’s Jewish rebirth, and the partially reconstructed building now houses a Jewish center and a museum. Museum: €3.50/3. Dome €2/1.50. Under-6s free. www.cjudaicum.de.

Oranienburgerstr. 28-30.

T: 030.88028300.

S Oranienburgerstraße, Hackescher Markt. E2

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage.

Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Panoramapunkt am Potsdamer Platz In 20 seconds, an elevator whisks you to the top of a 100m-high platform with one of the best views in Berlin. Visitors can enjoy drinks and cake at the

café, with the city’s skyline as a backdrop.

Daily 10am–8pm (until 6pm Nov–Mar). €6.50/5. www.panoramapunkt.de. Kolhoff Tower, Potsdamer Platz 1. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Philharmonie The seat of the world-famous Berliner Philharmoniker orchestra is one of Germany’s finest post-War architectural achievements. The exteriors recall a circus tent, while the pentagonal concert hall is arranged with a central podium for the orchestra and galleries for the audience around all sides. See Entertainment section for full program. Guided tours daily at 1:30pm. €5/3. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-vonKarajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254888156. S+U Potsdamer Platz, U Mendelssohn Bartholdy Park. D3

Potsdamer Platz and Sony Center Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza, filled with cafes and cinemas; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session.

The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours.

Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only.

Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit.

Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de.

Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152.

U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1.

T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

Did you know that there’s an old American Army gym on the top floor of Tempelhof airport? Or that Lufthansa was founded at Tempelhof in 1926? Built in the early 1920s under Prussian rule, thoughout history Tempelhof airport has served many fuctions: during the Nazi years, it became an expression of the Führer’s ideology and served as a ground for military parades and as a weapon production site. During the Berlin Blockade of 1948, when all roads to West Berlin were closed by East Germany, this airport was the focal point of the Berlin Airlift, with airplanes landing and taking off by the thousands each day, flying in food for the hungry population. To learn more about the airport’s fascinating history, book a tour with the airport's official development company, Tempelhofer Freiheit. Tours in English take place on Wed, Fri, Sat, and Sun at 1:30pm. Platz der Luftbrücke. www.thf-berlin.de

Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340.

Kochstraße. E3/E4

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of

COURTESY OF TEMPELHOFER FREIHEIT

History From Above

HISTORIC SITES

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Germany’s saddest historical periods.

Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm.

Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de.

Bernauer Str. 111. Bernauer Straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

East Side Gallery

architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

KPM Berlin Once upon a time in Berlin, a German king bought a local porcelain factory, and Königliche PorzellanManufaktur was born. Today known as KPM Berlin for short, the company still makes exquisite, worldrenowned porcelain tableware and decorative goods. At its Tiergarten headquarters, the oldest still-running manufactory in the city, visitors can take a tour, take a break in the café, and – of course – shop for beautiful hand-painted porcelain. www.kpm-berlin.com. Wegelystraße 1.

T: 030 390090. S Tiergarten. C3

While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery.

Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Approximately 44% Straße,S Ostbahnhof. G4

The Tempelhof Airport Building is a testimony to world history of the 20th century.

Mauer Museum (Haus am Checkpoint Charlie)

This privately-run exhibit explores the means and tools used by East Germans to escape the GDR until 1989: Trabant cars with hidden doors, hot air balloons, tunnels, and chairlifts were just some of the crafty inventions devised by GDR residents. Open Mon–Sun 9am–10pm. €12.50/6.50. www.mauermuseum.de.

Friedrichstr. 43-45. T: 030.2537250.

U Kochstraße. E3/E4

of Berlin is covered in parks, forest, and water.

Between 1941 and 1945, 50,000 Berlin Jews were packed into the freight and cattle cars of 186 trains leaving from Track 17 of the Grunewald Station, destined for the concentration camps and ghettos of Auschwitz, Theresienstadt, Riga, and Lodz. The track is no longer in use, and a plaque commemorates the tragic events. The small square in front of the S-Bahn station also features sculptures and installations dedicated to the deportees. S Grunewald. Off Map

Haus der Wannsee Konferenz In 1942, this idyllic lakeside villa hosted the Nazi meeting in which Adolf Eichmann decided to carry out the “Final Solution.” The plan was to systematically exterminate 11 million Jews throughout Europe. Today, the museum hosts a memorial and a small exhibit displaying shocking documents and photographs from the concentration camps. Open daily 10am–6pm. € free. Am Großen Wannsee 56-58. www.ghwk.de.

030 8050010. S Wannsee, then bus 114. Off Map

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the

Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation.

The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de.

Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430.

U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Mauer Museum (Haus am Checkpoint Charlie) This privately-run exhibit explores the means and tools used by East Germans to escape the GDR until 1989: Trabant cars with hidden doors, hot air balloons, tunnels, and chairlifts were just some of the crafty inventions devised by GDR residents.

Open Mon–Sun 9am–10pm. €12.50/6.50. www.mauermuseum.de. Friedrichstr. 43-45.

T: 030.2537250. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Karl-Marx-Allee Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist

Infos and tickets: www.thf-berlin.de/tour

Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp Built by prisoners as a model concentration camp in 1936, Sachsenhausen’s first inmates were mainly political prisoners, whereas Jews, gypsies, homosexuals, and people considered “inferior” were brought here a few years later. The iron gate bears the infamous “Arbeit macht frei” sign, and the barracks host a number of exhibitions about extermination methods, daily life of prisoners and the medical experiments performed on them. Open 8:30am–6pm (until 4:30pm midOct–mid-March). Museums and exhibitions closed on Mondays. € free. Guided tours available. www.stiftung-bg.de. Straße der Nationen 22, Oranienburg. T: 03301.200200. S Oranienburg or RE Oranienburg train from Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Wo war die Mauer?

Foto: Nationales Denkmal für die Opfer des Mauerbaus und der deutschen Teilung an der Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer, Hans-Hermann Hertle

Gleis 17

Flughafen Tempelhof Guided Tours

Where did the Berlin Wall run?

Stasi Prison Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en.stiftunghsh.de. Genslerstr. 66.T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of

the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the

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SIGHTSEEING Computer Game Museum Over 300 items, including rare originals, walk visitors through the development of computer games from the 1959 Brown Box to the Playstation and beyond. Visitors can test most of the games.

Open Wed–Mon 10am–8pm. €8/5. www.computerspielemuseum.de. Karl-Marx-Allee 93a. T: 030.60988577. U Weberwiese. G3

Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de.

Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4

Domäne Dahlem City Farm A real farm in the Berlin suburbs, with a manor house from the 1600s. The farm grounds are still in use and complete with all the usual animals, from cows to pigs to horses and geese. There’s also a small exhibition of ancient agricultural tools, and a farmers’ market on Saturday mornings. Check website for special events. Open Wed–Mon 10am– 6pm in summer. Farm: € free except during special events. Museum: €3/1.50. www.domaenedahlem. de. Königin-Luise-Str. 49. T: 030.6663000.

U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

Legoland Discovery Center

As you wander the streets of Berlin, there’s a big chance of stumbling upon art painted on the walls, or sculptures rising out from platforms on the ground. Less common, though, is artwork sprouting from the face of a building. Look out for the work of German artist Sergej Dott, who creates whimsical, large-scale sculptures of nature on the exteriors of buildings. If you’re in Prenzlauer Berg, be sure to head to DietrichBonhoeffer-Straße for The Return of the Cows, a delightful sculpture of bovines in a vertical pasture. And if you’re near Treptower Park, don’t miss the wonderful gigantic flowers adorning the facade of the Ärtzezentrum in Treptow. www.sergejdott.de

crimes they committed throughout Europe.

A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds.

Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de.

Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090.

U Kochstraße. E4

adult. Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons. com. Spandauer Str. 2.

S+U Hackescher Markt. F3

Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears)

MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm.

Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free.

Combined Zoo-Aquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8.

T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Until 1990, the departure hall of the Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” Tue–Fri 9am–7pm (Sat–Sun until 6pm). Free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17.

T: 030.46777790. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

KIDS & FAMILIES Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). Under-14s must be accompanied by

Berlin Zoo and Aquarium

Botanischer Garten This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants.

Open daily 9am–ca.

One hour before sunset.

Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3.

Everything is built with the famous plastic bricks at this indoor Lego wonderland. There are videos explaining how Lego is made, a Lego factory, a 4D cinema with tactile effects, a Duplo village for the very little ones, and a medieval world with knights and dragons. Kids can build their own structures and try them out at the test centre. Daily 10am– 6pm (last admission 5pm) except 24 Dec. €16 (from €8 if you book online, under-3s free). Combined tickets with Madame Tussauds, Sea Life, and Berlin Dungeon. www.legolanddiscoverycentre.de.

Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 01806.66690110.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online.

Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com.

Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Sea Life & AquaDom Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and quirky seahorses are just some of the 5000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. €17.95/14.50 (discounts when booking online). Under-3s free. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Madame Tussauds tickets available. www.visitsealife.com.

Spandauer Str. 3. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

POTSDAM Biosphäre Potsdam This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm

RIESENBLUMEN AM ÄRZTEHAUS TREPTOW, INSTALLIERT 2012, BY LIENHARD SCHULZ, EIGENES WERK, CC BY-SA 3.0.

Street Art That Matters

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SIGHTSEEING grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de.

Georg-Halemann-Allee 99. T: 0331.550740.

Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

house visits, limo tours, and – for an authentic urban experience – a graffiti workshop.

From €300. www.berlinagenten.com.

Bornholmer Str. 4. T: 030.43720701.

Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours)

Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular Sanssouci tours of underground structures MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo and subterranean complexes that castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was are otherwise inaccessible. Cold To see what the Berlin commissioned in 1745 by Frederick War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s Wall really looked like, the Great, who wanted "a place to underground fortress, escape visit the last remaining be without cares." The king of routes to the West, and WWII untouched stretch at Prussia employed the finest bunkers are just some of the Bernauer Straße. architects of the day to design the adventures on offer. From €10.

Baroque park, the Schloß placed above www.berliner-unterwelten.de. terraced vineyards, the more sober New Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.

Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the CooLTourings Segway Tours park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, Mon closed. €15/11.

CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large www.spsg.de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway, a fun T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from and fast way to explore the city.

Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map www.seg-berlin-ways.de.T: 0179.3585390.

TOURS & WALKS Berlinagenten These luxury tour agents specialize in “urban lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to exclusive locations, people, shops, and clubs.

Offerings include a “Pimp Me Up” spa and makeover tour, culinary experiences, private

Insider Tours This popular tour company offers nine different tours including Jewish Berlin, a pub crawl, Third Reich, Cold War, and a day trip to Dresden. No pre-booking required, simply show up at their meeting points (U Zoologischer Garten or S Hackescher Markt). €12/10. www.insidertour.com. T: 030.6923149.

Original Berlin Walks Offering eight themed walking tours in summer and four in the winter. Themes include the Third Reich, Jewish life in Berlin, Potsdam, the Cold War, gay Berlin and Christmas markets (in December).

No advance booking required, just show up at the meeting point shortly before the tour begins. (See website for times and places). www.berlinwalks.de.

Neue Bahnhofstr. 9-10.

T: 030.3019194.

Tempelhof Airport Building MUST SEE What used to be the city’s most central airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park whose six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other sports. The airport building, built in Nazi times and later used by the Allies, is a symbol of the city's eventful history, and offers guided tours every Wed, Fri, Sat, and Sun. www.thf-berlin.de.

T: 030.200037441. Tempelhofer Damm.

S Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke, U Boddinstraße. Off Map

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de.

Zimmerstr. 97.

T: 030.30201030.

Thank you for keeping Berlin clean Please make sure you use our 23.000 waste baskets

www.BSR.de/sauber

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Welcome to Berlin

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

Pergamon Comes Alive The Pergamon Museum's great altar is still closed for restoration, but a new installation at the museum brings the old city of Pergamon back to life, says Annabelle Mallia.

Every year, many thousands of tourists rush to the Pergamon Museum to see ancient architectural treasures such as the Ishtar Gate of Babylon, the Market Gate of Myletus, and most of all, the Altar of Pergamon, a monumental construction built in the 2nd century BC in what is now Anatolia (Turkey). Since 2013, however, the altar has been undergoing extensive renovations, and will not reopen at least for another year.

While we wait, however, we can still experience the impressive Ancient Greek city through Yagedar Asisi's new installation, PERGAMON. Masterpieces from the Ancient Metropolis and 360° Panorama, which brings to life the ancient metropolis in a 360° panorama

located directly across from Museum Island.

The artist is already well known in Berlin for his Wall Panorama (Friedrichstr. 205, www. die-mauer.de) near Checkpoint Charlie, where he has recreated a life-sized scene of a Kreuzberg street along the Berlin Wall inside a massive cylindrical structure. The installation gives a very realistic idea of what it felt like for 1980s West Berliners to live with the imposing presence of the Wall and its gloomy views: Asisi depicted a family moving, a man painting graffiti on the Wall, a group of punks chatting, and a GDR border guard observing life in the West from the other side.

His new installation instead takes visitors back to the year 129 AD and to the ancient

metropolis of Pergamon, at the time Roman Empire. Embedded in the terraces of the Acropolis on the 300-meter-high castle hill are temples, a huge theater, and other monumental buildings, all blending into the mountainous landscape. About 40 scenes have also been inserted into the panorama, such as the Dionysia festival and various sacrificial scenes staged on the forecourt of the Great Altar. The parallel exhibiition includes 80 of the most important pieces from the collection of antiquities, such as the frieze of the Pergamon Altar, depicting a battle between the Gods and the Giants, and the colossal head of Heracles.

The immersive effect of the artwork is remarkable.

Am Kupfergraben 2, www.smb.museum.

PERGAMON. MEISTERWERKE DER ANTIKEN METROPOLE UND 360°-PANORAMA VON YADEGAR ASISI, PANORAMA VON YADEGAR ASISI MIT BLICK AUF DEN BURGBERG, VISUALISIERUNG 2018, © ASISI

Yagedar Asisi's impressive panorama of the city of Pergamon.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

EXHIBITION BLACKBOX COLD WAR CHECKPOINT CHARLIE

MUSEUMS Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To 6 Jan: Flesh | Meat. Between life and death is meat and our relationship to It. Tue– Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am– 6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Friedrichstraße 47 / corner of Zimmerstraße 10117 Berlin-Mitte

Alte Nationalgalerie

Daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 6 Jan: Henriette von Carlowitz Reborn. The Restoration of a Painting by Anton Graff. Following the process of restoration and conservation of the stately aristocrat’s portrait. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr.

1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Visitors’ service info@bfgg.de More information www.blackbox-kalter-krieg.de

© David Beecroft

Bode Museum

The best

events in town

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Berlin

journeys of the works in the museum’s permanent collection. To 4 Nov: Saving. History of a German Virtue. Exploring how the act of saving became linked to Germany. To 6 Jan: Europe and the Sea. Exploring the history of Europe, the maritime continent. To 3 Mar: Angel, Swastika, Dome of the Rock. Christmas tree decorations from the 20th century until today. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2.

T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. To 30 Dec: 40 Years of German Space Flight. Celebrating the past four decades of Germans in space. To 18 Nov: Paris Music Engraving Studio, Berlin.

Photographs of a deserted studio, where Hans-Joachim Paris ran his family’s sheet music engraving studio. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9.

T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Deutsches Spionage Museu Roman and Byzantine art adorn Delve into the world of espionage the museum’s impressive interior, with two floors of interactive The Allied Museum in built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To exhibits covering some 3500 Zehlendorf traces the 31 Jan: Two Camels and a Saint. The years of espionage history. history of the Allied Antique Pilgrimage Site of Abu Mina in Highlights include presentations presence in Berlin.

Egypt. An exploration of the ancient on James Bond and other famous pilgrimage site. To 2 Jun: Beyond fictitious spies and a laser maze that Compare: Art from Africa in the Bode-Museum. tests your agility to break into – or out Sculptures from Africa and Europe displayed of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily together In comparison and study Tue–Fri 10am-8pm. www.deutsches-spionagemuseum.de.

10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm.

Leipziger Platz 9. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben.

S+U Potsdamer Platz E3 T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, Erlebnis Europa 06.07.18 10:17 Markt. E3 S Hackescher Experience Europe in the heart of Berlin! Take a seat in their 360° cinema for a plenary session Bröhan Museum of the European Parliament, take on the role of Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed a Commissioner of the European Union in their hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects simulation game, discover EU members states and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist with facts and figures and stories from daily life, movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, or simply take a European happy snap to send housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this home. All in 24 European languages. fascinating artistic period. To 6 Jan: George Grosz Open daily 10am–6pm. Free Admission. in Berlin. A retrospective on the works of one of the www.erlebnis-europa.eu. Unter den Linden 78. greatest political satirists of the Weimar Republic.

T: 030 22802900. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3 To 27 Jan: Dieter Hacker - Political Photography (1974-1981). A solo exhibition Hacker's work on Ephraim Palais West Germany and the power of images.

Temporary exhibitions on local cultural history fill www.broehan-museum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. this great Baroque building. Demolished in 1935, T: 030: 32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3 the Palais was rebuilt in 1983 using its original façade, which had been stored in a warehouse for DDR Museum almost 50 years. Open Tue, Thu–Sun 10am–6pm, Learn about daily life in the former East Germany Wed noon-8pm. €7/5 (under 18s free, first Wed of at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR month free entry). www.stadtmuseum.de. Poststr.

(DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR 16. T: 030.24002162. U Alexanderplatz. F3 car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg Museum collectively potty-training babies or going Kreuzberg enthusiasts can learn more about on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, the history and radical legacy of this legendary Sat until 10pm. €9.80/6. www.ddr-museum.de. neighborhood at this small museum housed in a Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. typical red-brick building. Open Wed–Sun noon– S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3 6pm. www.kreuzbergmuseum.de. Adalbertstr. 95a.

Deutsches Historisches Museum T: 030.50585233. U Kottbusser Tor. F4 MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum) Germanic areas to the present day. To 3 Feb: One of the world’s largest and most significant Revealed By The Reverse. The Hidden History of a institutions for archiving, researching, and Painting by Adolph Menzel. Tracing the origins and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ

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Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores

millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To 30 Apr: Welcome to Jerusalem. An exploration of Jerusalem through time and religions. To Fall 2019: Ganzfeld "Aural" by James Turrell. Immersive light sculptures in the museum's garden Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14.

T: 030.25993300.

U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

l museum Internatiotna exhibition

Käthe Kollwitz Museum

permanen

Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war.

Featuring works from Kollwitz’s most intensive and emotionally-charged years. Daily 11am–6pm. €7/4. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24.

T: 030.8825210.

U Uhlandstraße. C4

(worth

open daily:

(24th December closed)

Kupferstichkabinett MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the Great Elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in English as the Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. From 7 Dec: Rendezvous: French Master

2,80 €)

Jan–Jun 12 p.m.–8 p.m.

Jul–Aug 10 a.m.–8 p.m.

Sep–Dec 12 p.m.–8 p.m.

Last entrance: 7 p.m.

Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7 Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. From 14 Dec: Rainbow Arcade.

Thirty years of queer history in video games, from 1985-2018. To 4 Nov: Proudly Perverted: Perspectives on the WomenLesbianTrans*Inter*BDSM Community. A showcase of the culture of consent.

To 6 Nov: Radical - Lesbian - Feminist. Following the history of the activist group, the Lesbisches Aktionszentrum, active from 1972-1982. To 8 Nov: Our Own FeminismS - A Queer-Feminist Futurelab.

A lecture series exploring a future feminist utopia. To 31 Dec: Year of the Women*. Twelve months of programs, exhibitions, lectures, and transformation. To 5 Jan: 12 Moons. A yearlong program featuring films by feminist filmmakers and video artists. To 31 Jan: Spirits. The museum's café transforms into an interactive exhibition space for sharing. To 14 Feb: EXTRA+TERRESTRIAL by Coven Berlin. A reclamation of the other, the witch, the alien, the monster, and the cyborg. Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73.

T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

2707

3360

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14 €/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42 €/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers.

Valid until March, 31st 2019.

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

COURTESY OF DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHE MUSEUM.

www.daliberlin.de

O Tannenbaum!

It’s time to get festive! Everywhere you look, holiday decorations are coming out of hibernation to be placed into beautiful arrangements. But have holiday decorations always had an innocent history? During the Nazi regime, the illuminated Christmas tree symbolized one of the Nazi ideals of German identity, and after WWII, many German families found themselves unsure as to whether to continue with the German tradition of Christmas tree decoration. Angel, Swastika, Dome of the Rock, a new seasonal exhibition at the Deutsches Historisches Museum (p. 39), explores the journey of the Christmas tree and holiday decorations, from its beginnings in the 1800s, to its use as a tool of Nazi propaganda, to becoming a global symbol of holiday festivities.

Until 3 March. www.dhm.de

For Explorers!

Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin | www.sdtb.de /deutschestechnikmuseum

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Drawings at the Kupferstichkabinett. Meet the museum's beautiful collection of drawings from French masters. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.smb.museum.

Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neo-Gothic setting. Free admission until 9 June.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/4 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de.

Am Köllnischen Park 5. T: 030.24002162.

U Märkisches Museum. F3

Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. To 6 Jan: Gurlitt: Status Report.

Examining the troubled history of works from Cornelius Gurlitt's collection. To 7 Jan: Restless Times. Archaeology in Germany. Connecting the earliest cultural interactions within Europe with Germany. To 13 Jan: Lee Bul: Crash. The historical and political evolution of South Korea told through the lens of art. To Feb 2019: Wu Tsang. Her year-long residency explores states between documentary and fiction. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm.

Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de.

Niederkirchnerstr. 7.

T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4

Images - Works and Their Provenances in Museum Berggruen. The history of works with unclear or unknown pasts Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1.

T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer

corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. From 1 Dec: Saul Leiter. David Lynch. Helmut Newton: Nudes. The first exhibition at the museum to be dedicated to nude photography. To 3 Mar: Berlin in the 1918/19 Revolution. Photography, Film, Entertainment Culture.

A photographic visual history of the immediate post-war period and its entertainment culture.

Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2.

Time Flies!

Forty years ago, Sigmund Jähn, the first German cosmonaut, entered space and spent over seven days aboard the Soviet space station Salyut 6, conducting research and experiments. The East German forerunner worked tirelessly with other astronauts from the West to advance science and discovery. 40 Years of German Space Flight, on at the Deutsches Technikmuseum (p. 39), follows Germany’s decades-long involvement in space exploration. With displays of original space suits and models of space ships and stations, the exhibition explains how East and West Germany went from being enemies during the Cold War to partners after reunification. Until 30 December.

Mendelssohn Exhibit A Jewish Enlightenment philosopher, a worldrenowned composer, and generations of bankers made the history of the influential Mendelssohn family, whose members were persecuted as Jews despite having converted to Christianity.

Daily noon–6pm. € free. www.mendelssohn-gesellschaft.de.

Jägerstr. 51. T: 030.81704726.

U Französische Straße. E3

Menschen Museum The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 Located in a reconstructed palace in the historic center of Potsdam, this museum houses the collection of founder and patron Hasso Plattner. Exhibitions range from Old Masters to contemporary art with a focus on impressionism.

With the Barberini App you can choose your own audio tour. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. €14/10 (€8 after 6pm; kids and students free).

Alter Markt, Humboldtstr. 5–6.

T: 0331 236014499. Off Map

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. To 19 May: The Lives of

COURTESY OF THE DEUTSCHES TECHNIKMUSEUM.

Museum Barberini Potsdam

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T: 030.266424242.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Museum of Musical Instruments A fascinating collection of ancient and modern musical instruments, including bagpipes, harpsichords, and instruments once owned by celebrities. Check the website for the weekly demonstrations of the most impressive musical machines, such as a silent film-era cinema organ.

Open Tue, Wed, Fri 9am–5pm, Thu 9am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm. €6/3 (under 18s free). www.sim. spk-berlin.de. Tiergartenstr. 1. T: 030.254810.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Museum of Communication An entertaining journey through the history of communication inside the neo-Baroque building that once hosted Berlin’s post office museum. Robots welcome visitors and iPads make perfect tour guides through the most intriguing steps in the development of postal and telephone communication, all the way to the era of information technology. Open Tue 9am–8pm, Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm. €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger Str. 16.

T: 030.202940.

U Mohrenstraße, Stadtmitte. E3

Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest mounted dinosaur skeleton and to Europe's first original T. rex, the natural history museum also features a rare speciment of Archaeopterix, as well as extensive collections of shells, insects, and mammals. From 9 Oct: ARTEFACTS. Large-scale photographs of the effects of human activity on nature. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/5. www.museumfuernaturkunde.berlin.

Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.8891408591.

U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 29 Sep: The Crown of Kerch. Treasures from the Dawn of European History. Featuring gold jewelry from the Migration Period found near the Black Sea. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3.

T: 030.266424242.S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian world. Altar room closed for restoration through end of 2019. To 27 Jan: The Colours of Sindh.

Architectural decor and historic photographs from southern Sindh in Pakistan. www.smb.museum.

Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242.

S Hackescher Markt. E3

Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake www.wheretraveler.com 51

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

ART GALLERIES Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 11 Mar: The Novembergruppe 1918-1935. Art from the radical artist collective during the revolutionary postwar years. To 11 mar: Raphaela Vogel. 10 Years Videoart at Midnight. Exploring the female physique and malecentric technology in today's world. To 8 Apr: Julian Charrière. As We Used To Float. GASAG Art Prize 2018 recipient's multimedia installation on nuclear testing In the Pacific. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie. de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600.

U Hallesches Tor. E4

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. From 8 Dec: The Last Image. Photography and Death. Over 400 works on the subject and image of death. From 8 Dec: Nobuyoshi Araki. Impossible Love - Vintage Photographs. An exploration of public and private, anonymity and intimacy, and reality and dream. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24.

T: 030.28444160.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7.

Toll number: 0700.3254237546.

U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries.

Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Hamburger Bahnhof

spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. To 3 Feb: Karin Sander - A Retrospective.

A specially designed installation to celebrate the re-opening of the Haus am Waldsee.

Open Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www. hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935.

U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

The Hamburger Bahnhof

Helmut Newton Foundation The permanent collection of this Museum of Before dying in a car accident on former railway station includes a contemporary art is Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art selection of works from the Friedrich housed inside an old photographer donated all of his work Christian Flick Collection, and the train station. to his hometown of Berlin. Best known many temporary exhibitions focus on for his nude photography of American painting and sculpture from the past 50 stars, Newton now has an entire museum years, as well as videos, music, and design. From dedicated to his oeuvre. From 1 Dec: Saul Leiter.

15 Dec: Local Histories. Tracing the history and David Lynch. Helmut Newton: Nudes. The first development of pieces in the Hamburger Bahnhof exhibition at the museum to be dedicated to nude and Nationalgalerie collections. To 20 Oct: Elephant in the Room. Sculptures of the Marx Collection photography. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www.helmutnewton.com. Jebensstr. 2. and the Collection of the Nationalgalerie. The spatial T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3 relationship with sculpture. To. 3 Mar: PAINTER. MENTOR. MAGICIAN. Otto Mueller and His Network in me Collectors Room Wrocław. Spotlighting the influence Mueller had Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring as a teacher at the Wrocław Academy. To 3 Mar: together other international art collectors and to Agnieszka Polska: The Demon's Brain. A sound and organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The video installation of 15th-century Poland. To 14 upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 1 Apr: Sam Pulitzer. Whim or Sentiment or Chance. The Apr: The Moment is Eternity - Works from the Olbricht young artist’s first solo exhibition, focused on Collection. Themes of beauty, sensuality, the body, criticism of institutions. To 12 May: How to Talk time, and society in the fleeting moment. Wed–mon with Birds, Trees, Fish, Shells, Snakes, Bulls and Lions. noon–6pm. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68.

An international and interwoven project exploring T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2 nature, human influence, and the environment.

Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun PalaisPopulaire 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.smb.museum. Invalidenstr. With an emphasis on paper and photography, the 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along S Hauptbahnhof. D2 the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an Haus am Waldsee international prize. To 1 Jan: The world on paper.

Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized www.db-palaispopulaire.de. Unter den Linden 5. contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Through her work, South Korean artist Lee Bul questions patriarchal authority and the marginalization of women, but also explores political developments in her country.

Check out her inspiring exhibition, on all month at Martin-Gropius-Bau (p. 50).

Sammlung Boros No more than 12 guests at a time can visit this former Nazi bunker turned art gallery. Collector Chistian Boros bought the historic building in 2003 to fill it up with contemporary art by artists like Damien Hirst, Olafur Eliasson, and more.

Open by appointment only (book online). €12. www.sammlung-boros.de. Reinhardtstr. 20.

T: 030.27594065. S+U Friedrichstraße. E2/E3

Sammlung Hoffmann An old sewing factory behind the Hackesche Höfe now contains Rolf and Erika Hoffmann’s private art collection. Erika herself shows visitors around her art-packed apartment on Saturday mornings, but you’ll need to book ahead. Guided tours Saturdays between 11am and 4pm. €10. www.sammlunghoffmann.de. Sophie-Gips-Höfe, Sophienstr. 21.

T: 030.28499120. S Hackescher Markt. F2

Commercial Galleries Galerie Berlin, until 08 Dec: Hartwig Ebersbach: Cortège. Auguststr. 19. www.galerie-berlin.de; Galerie Hilaneh von Kories, until 21 Dec: Bogdan Dziworski: f/5.6. Happy Moments. Belziger Str. 35. www.galeriehilanehvonkories.de; Stella A. Galerie /Edition, until 22 Dec: Joseph Beuys, George Brecht, Marcel Duchamp, Robert Filliou, Wols, among others: Food for Thought. Gipsstr. 4. edition@stella-a.de.

LEE BUL , COURTESY OF MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU. PHOTO BY MATHIAS VÖLKZE.

trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €6/4.50. www.stasimuseum.de.

Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854.

U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

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THE GUIDE | DINING

This photo: Mahlo Brunch Bar; Inset, below: The Future Breakfast.

The Most Important Meal

MAHLO BRUNCH BAR: © ZOE NOBLE; THE FUTURE BREAKFAST: PHOTO BY SABRINA HUBERT.

Start your day right with one of Hilda Hoy's favorite new brunch spots.

There's one question that a food writer in this town never stops getting asked: Where's a good place for brunch?

Thankfully, the restaurateurs of Berlin keep raising the bar ever higher – after all, in such a competitive area as brunch, there's no room to rest on one's laurels.

Here are some of the best spots to open up over the past year. And remember: The most important meal of the day is all the more important during these cold, dark winter months – so don't hold back on the calories, I say.

Just off Neukölln's hectic Hermannstraße lies Mahlo Brunch Bar (Mahlower Str. 32, www.mahloberlin.de), a treat for both the eyes and the taste buds. In contrast to the minimalist look so popular everywhere these days, Mahlo is drenched in pop art-style décor in good-mood primary colors. The all-day brunch menu encompasses a variety of eggy breakfast classics with modern twists, plus healthy options like fresh juices and smoothies to match the bar's bright colors.

Don't miss the fluffy lemon-blueberry pancakes and the "Hangover Cure" sandwich, pepped up with tomato-onion chutney and BBQ sauce and stuffed into a soft brioche bun.

Not too far away is The Future Breakfast (Böhmische Str. 46, www.thefuturebreakfast. com), tucked away on a lovely little square in Rixdorf, the village-like corner of southern Neukölln. After years of temporary breakfast pop-ups around town, the Australian-run breakfast endeavor finally set up permanent

shop earlier this year with a small but stellar menu of options that will delight any brunch connoisseur. The Future Breakfast specialty is low-frills, seasonal dishes prepared with care, such as vegan French toast with coconut yogurt and berries, roasted cauliflower with herbs and hummus, and Eggs Benedict with marinated oyster mushrooms instead of boring old ham.

Finally, make time for a stop at Annelies (Görlitzer Str. 68), on the edge of Kreuzberg's Görlitzer Park. Opened this spring, Annelies offers a surprisingly innovative take on breakfast, with deceptively simple-sounding dishes that nonetheless deliver on flavor, artfully arranged into a minimalist tableau that's almost too pretty to eat. Homemade granola spackled with the colorful antioxidant combo of beets and blueberries, for example.

The savory dishes are especially one-of-a-kind, with lots of vegetable-forward dishes like roasted zucchini with pickled white asparagus and pumpkin seed tahini. www.wheretraveler.com 53

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DINING

DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book.

Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

FINE DINING For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1.

T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3.

T: 030.590051234.

S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience. €€€€. Wed–Sat D. www.lorenzadlonesszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77.

T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun and Mon. www.paulysaal.com.

Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c.

T: 030.30881214.

U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse

ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€.

Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8.

T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Skykitchen Part of the andel’s Hotel, Skykitchen brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€.

Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com.

Landsberger Allee 106. T: 030.4530532620.

S Landsberger Allee. H2

Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€.

Tue–Sat L&D. www.tim-raue.com.

Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 26. T: 030.25937930.

U Kochstraße. E4

ASIAN Arai Chinese-Japanese. An exquisite dining experience in a Zen-styled oasis. Guests are treated to a 10-course Chuka Ryori tasting menu, a refined hybrid of Chinese and Japanese cuisines, plus an exclusive sake selection. One seating per

taste and toast Bikini Berlin’s food market serving culinary delights from over 10 different countries, now open until 22:00!

Zoologischer Garten

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DINING night for 10 guests; reservations essential. €€€€.

Tue–Sun D.www.araiberlin.com. Straßburger Str. 60. T: 0163 3848548. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2.

house specialty. €€. Daily L&D. www.restaurant-jolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4-4a.

T: 030.20059500. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Gagans

Kimchi Princess

Indian. Just a five-minute walk from the Kurfürstendamm shopping boulevard, Gagans serves delicious North Indian specialties every day of th a clay tandoor oven. €€. Daily L&D. www.gagans.de. Uhlandstr. 149. T: 030 37470302.

U Spichernstraße. B4–C4.

Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website

India Club Indian. Just steps away from the Brandenburg Gate is this luxurious hideaway for high-end North Indian cuisine, boasting an ambience that is both elegant and colorful.A renowned chef flown in from New Delhi lends his masterful touch to the menu of extravagantly spiced specialties. €€€. Daily D. www.india-club-berlin.com.

Behrenstr. 72.

T: 030.20628610.

S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203.

U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

Kushinoya Berliner Weisse is a pale ale brewed only in the capital and usually served with a shot of syrup.

Jolly Chinese. Just across the water from Museum

Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim sum dumplings as possible before moving on to the menu’s extensive variety of Sichuan-style and Cantonese dishes. Traditional Peking duck is the

Japanese. This upscale Japanese

restaurant makes fried fingerfood taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special non-greasy technique. www.kushinoya. de.Bleibtreustr. 6. T: 030.31809897.

S Savignyplatz. B4

www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17.

T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Sra Bua Thai/Japanese. Berlin’s home-grown star chef Tim Raue has done it again. Sra Bua, in the Hotel Adlon, is his latest restaurant to show off his love for the cuisines of Asia. Guests can expect only the most high-caliber Thai and Japanese cooking, and the Raue specialty: curries that are refined yet exploding with flavor. €€€. Tue-Sat D. www.srabuaadlon.de. Behrenstr. 72. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Other location in Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants.com.

Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415.

S Ostkreuz. Off Map

FRENCH

Spindler & Klatt

Restaurant 1687

Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and

French-Mediterranean. Enjoy refined, stylish dining with a side of intriguing history – just a stone's throw from Brandenburg Gate. The restaurant takes its name from the year in which the first Protestant church in Berlin was built on this very site, an important gathering place for French Huguenots fleeing religious persecution. The church was reduced to ruins in WWII, but in its place you can

club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill.

On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D.

Ho Ho Ho Bavaria!

German christmas at Maximilians.

Friedrichstraße 185–190 maximilians-berlin.de www.wheretraveler.com 55

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DINING enjoy French-Mediterranean dishes and a top-notch wine selection. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.1687.berlin. Mittelstr. 30. T: 030.20630611.

U Friedrichstraße. E3

Le Faubourg Mediterranean. This classy brasserie facing

French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists.

Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant.com.

Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000.

U Augsburger Straße. C4

the famed Ku’damm features modern art and a crisp, stylish interior alongside its menu of both classic and updated French cuisine. The recently revamped brasserie in the Hotel Sofitel Kurfürstendamm is the perfect spot for either a posh business lunch or a romantic dinner. Try the flambéed shrimp for a fiery cooking performance right at your table. €€. Daily L&D. www.sofitel.com. Augsburger Str. 41.

T: 030.8009990.

U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Lamazère Brasserie

Paris Bar

Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s restaurant is all about

French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the

bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the revered Michelin Guide, a category commending great food at good value. The three-course dinner menu for €35 will allow you to sample various French food musts, like oeufs cocotte baked eggs, charcuterie platters, duck confit, beef tartare, and tarte tatin for dessert. Whatever the kitchen has cooking that night, every delicacy has that je ne sas quoi that has made French cuisine so famous. €€€. Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de.

Stuttgarter Platz 18. T: 030.31800712.

S Charlottenburg. B4

French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€.

Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152.

T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

GERMAN/AUSTRIAN AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts

an elegant interior and a view on stately

Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de.

Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850.

U Französische Straße. E3

Altes Zollhaus German. This quaint, cottage-style building

was first constructed in the 1800s, when it served as a tollhouse for passing steamboats, then painstakingly restored after WWII. Today, it’s a canal-side restaurant serving elevated German cuisine created from the finest regional ingredients. €€–€€€. Tues–Sat D.www.altes-zollhaus-berlin.de.

Carl-Herz-Ufer 30.T: 030.6923300. U Prinzenstraße. E4

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47.

T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Hofbräuhaus German. An Oktoberfest atmosphere for the

whole family 365 days a year. This restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in typical Bavarian

There are a few key ingredients to the perfect night out, namely great food, great drinks, and great ambiance. Night Kitchen is a carefully crafted marriage of all three. This hip, chilled-out "contemporary dining bar" tucked into a pleasant courtyard off Mitte's Oranienburger Straße is a spinoff of a successful Tel Aviv restaurant, its roots evident in the fresh, colorful, Mediterranean-influenced menu. There's salmon bruschetta with Israeli zhug chili relish, for example, mussels in pastis broth with smoked bacon, slow-cooked short ribs with cumin and honey, some of the best grilled octopus you'll ever eat, and a variety of colorful, crisp, and luscious salads.

To get the full Night Kitchen experience, bring a group and go for the “Dinner With Friends” option. You’ll get a splendid, personalized feast comprised of their tastiest dishes, served family style for everyone to share. The drinks, naturally, are just as irresistible, including cocktails with a fun Mediterranean twist.

Oranienburger Str. 32. www.nightkitchenberlin.com. T: 030 23575075.

© BOAZ ARAD

A Night To Remember

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Tickets are available online: www.the-grand-berlin.com Entry to the NYE Party is included THE GRAND HirtenstraĂ&#x;e 4, 10178 Berlin +49 (0) 30 278 909 95 55

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DINING style, alongside live music, waiters in traditional costume, and the traditional Hofbräu beer, brewed in Munich since the 1700s. Expect dumplings and roasted ham hock at their popular Sunday brunch. €. www.hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30.

T: 030 679665520.

U + S Alexanderplatz. F2

The Grand

Modern Hellenic dishes

German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4.

T: 030.278909555. Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Our meat is produced by speciesappropriate animal husbandry – Fresh Mediterranean fish – Select wines from various regions of Greece – Exclusive olive oil from the island of Lesbos – Groups welcome upon request

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters.

There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b.

T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing.

Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€.

Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr.

185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

Restaurant Z Friesenstraße 12 10965 Berlin-Kreuzberg reservation +49 (0)30 692 27 16 open daily from 5 pm www.restaurant-z.de find us on google maps

Berlin’s most delicious restaurants

®

Berlin

Japan may be known more for its tea culture, but that could soon be changing, thanks to % Arabica. The Kyoto-born coffee chain with branches across Asia and the Middle East recently chose Berlin as the flagship site of its soon-to-expand European network. Though tucked into a back courtyard off Kreuzberg's residential Reichenberger Straße, the % Arabica café is expansive and spacious, with a clean, minimalist aesthetic that reflects founder Kenneth Shoji's careful attention to detail. It's for this same reason that the beans ground and brewed here are sourced straight from the company's own coffee farm in Hawaii. The aim: nothing less than third-wave coffee perfection.

The same high standards have gone into the food concept, with breakfast and lunch served every weekday and brunch all weekend. The no-fuss, well-executed menu options range from inventive seasonal salads to bacon-egg-cheese croissant sandwiches to changing pasta specials, all of it fresh and delicious. Those discriminating standards have clearly paid off.

Reichenberger Str. 36. arabica.coffee/en/. T: 015159899294.

COURTESY OF % ARABICA

©ISTOCK

Japanese Coffee Perfection

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Eat well every day

More German. A stylish, design-oriented spot in

the bustling Nollendorfplatz neighborhood, More’s specialty is modern German cuisine with international influences. Classics like schnitzel and Königsberger Klopse meatballs are equally as delicious as fusion-style options such as salmon tartare with avocado and wasabi, or softly braised octopus with lime. €€. Daily L&D. www.moreberlin.de. Motzstr. 28. T: 030.23635702. C4

Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients.

Specialties include extra-big currywurst and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €.

Daily L&D. www.nante-eck.de.

Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257.

U Französische Straße. F2

Paris-Moskau French/German. This rustic house, built in 1898 and lucky to survive two World Wars, was a Russian restaurant in two of its past lives. Today, it's an upscale destination seamlessly incorporating French, German, and Russian culinary influences. €€€. MonFri L&D, Sat D only. www.paris-moskau.de. Alt-Moabit 141.

T: 030.3942081. S+U Hauptbahnhof. D3

Renger-Patzsch German. All dark wood and white tablecloths, the look at Renger-Patzsch is as simple and elegant as is its menu of refined German-Austrian cuisine.

Meat dishes are a specialty, as are the Alsatian Flammkuchen, bases of thin dough baked with topping combos like apple and blood sausage. €€.

Daily D. www.renger-patzsch.com.

Wartburgstr. 54. T: 030.7842059.

U Eisenacher Straße. C5

Berlin main station

Hackescher Markt

Kantine Deluxe II

Kantine Deluxe

Kantine Deluxe Spandauer Straße 2 10178 Berlin (Hackescher Markt) T: +49 30 3439 2626

Kantine Deluxe II Ella-Trebe-Straße 3 10557 Berlin (at the Berlin main station) T: +49 30 2509 9441

www.kantine-deluxe.de

service@kantine-deluxe.de

www.1687.berlin

Restaurantschiff Capt'n Schillow German. Climb aboard this quaint boat restaurant at the western edge of Tiergarten to enjoy classic German fish delicacies like cured herring, grilled pike perch fillets, and North Sea shrimp, plus a relaxing brunch menu on weekends. Book in advance to take a chartered cruise through the surrounding waterways. €€. Daily L&D, breakfast Sat & Sun. Closed Mon–Tue Oct–Dec. www.capt-schillow.de.

Str. des 17. Juni 113, next to Charlottenburger Tor. T: 030.31505015. S Tiergarten. C3

Restauration 1840 German. An elegant, old-timey restaurant decorated in the style of Berlin’s Golden 1920s.

Think curved brick ceilings and lots of warm wood everywhere, plus an outdoor terrace. The menu: classic German meets modern European. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.berlin-1840.de.de. Am Zwirngraben 10. T: 030.24727401. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

SPRE

Rotisserie Weingrün German/European. Overlooking the canal on

German/Austrian. With a crisply white interior

FriedrichEbert-Platz Scheidemannstr.

Str. des 17. Juni

Pariser Platz

U

Dorotheenstraße Schadowstr.

Schneeweiss

Fine french inspired cuisine in an elegant ambiance.

Wilhelmstraße

the southern edge of Museum Island, this elegant-casual restaurant is a favorite of many local gastronomes. The highlight is the huge, upright flame grill, which prepares steaks, ribs, pork belly, and rotisserie chicken to perfection. Try the octopus salad or flambéed salmon for a special treat. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat D. www.rotisserieweingruen.de. Gertraudenstr. 10.

T: 030.20621900. U Spittelmarkt. F3.

Bahnhof Friedrichstraße

E

Mittelstraße

Unter den Linden

Neustädtischer Kirchplatz / Mittelstraße 30 / 10117 Berlin T. 0049 30 20630611 / info@1687.berlin open from 12:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. / Sunday closed www.wheretraveler.com 59

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DINING reminiscent of snow-capped Alpine peaks, Schneeweiss serves classy takes on Austrian cuisine. Traditional dishes like schnitzel and goulash with Serviettenknödel dumplings share the menu with rotating seasonal offerings. €€.

Mon–Fri D, Sat–Sun B, L, D. www.schneeweissberlin.de. Simplonstr. 16. T: 030.29049704.

S+U Warschauer Straße. H3

Zeit für Brot German. Bread is a cornerstone of German food culture. Zeit für Brot—“Time for Bread”—is not only a bakery selling organic, artisanal German breads baked in-house, it’s also a café serving things like wholesome sandwiches, quiche “muffins,” and sweet treats like cinnamon buns. €. Daily B&L. www.zeitfuerbrot.com. Alte Schönhauser Str. 4. T: 030.28046780.

U Weinmeisterstraße, U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Zillemarkt German. Zillemarkt is steeped in old-school Berliner charm. For a taste, try the “Berliner Allerlei” platter for two, with cabbage rolls, mushy peas, fried potatoes, and no less than five kinds of meat. €.

Daily B, L, D. Bleibtreustr. 48a.

T: 030.8817040. S Savignyplatz. B4

just stop by for one of their delicious desserts. €/ €€. www.mama.eu. Pariser Platz 6a.

T: 030.467260981. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere at this expansive pizza

hall is on the raucous side and the service is notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12.

T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2

OTHER Adana Grillhouse Turkish. This all-encompassing menu

of Turkish dishes allows for a full on Turkish experience – sights, smells and tastes to reflect the cuisine that has found its way into the heart Germans will usually tip and soul of Berlin. A high priority for good service by for Adana Grillhaus is to ensure a adding 10% to familiar and welcoming atmosphere. a restaurant Second location in Friedrichshainbill.

Kreuzberg at Manteuffelstr. 86. €€ Daily L&D. www.adanagrillhaus.de. Skalitzerstr.

105. T: 030.82409600. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

ITALIAN Barist Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13.

T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Bocca di Bacco

Grand Rocka International. Inside, the restaurant takes over the historic arched space under S Hackescher Markt station, featuring a grand old wooden bar that lives up to the restaurant’s name, and out front, the terrace spills out across the busy Platz. The large international menu ranges from steaks to pizzas to burgers. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.grandrocka.de.

Am Zwirngraben 6–7. T: 030.24638606. F2

Hasir

modern Italian cuisine prepared with top-quality ingredients, accompanied by excellent wines. Contemporary furnishings and elegant atmosphere. www.boccadibacco.de. €€–€€€.

Daily L&D. Friedrichstr. 167-168. T: 030.20672828.

U Französische Straße. E3

Turkish. The little Turkish grill house rumored to be the birthplace of the döner kebab in the 1970s has since expanded to six locations around the city. The original restaurant near Kottbusser Tor is a very popular spot for trying the full spectrum of what Turkish cuisine has to offer – far beyond the kebab. €€. Daily L&D. www.hasir.de. Adalbertstr.

10. T: 030.6142373. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Café Aroma

Kantine Deluxe

Italian. A longstanding neighborhood favorite,

International. Take a break from sightseeing and fill up with a satisfying meal. Right in the heart of the city, Kantine Deluxe offers a fresh, affordable, and vegetarian-friendly menu of salads, burgers, pasta dishes, and Berlin specialties, with something to please everyone. €–€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.kantine-deluxe.de. Spandauer Str. 2.

T: 030.34392626. S Hackescher Markt, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 Also: Ella-Trebe-Str. 3.

T: 030.25099441. S Nordbahnhof. D2

Italian. This high-level restaurant offers

this Italian restaurant believes in pairing highquality food with a relaxed, homey atmosphere.

The Sunday brunch buffet, served from 11am, is a generous mix of irresistible cold and warm Italian dishes. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat L&D, Sun B, L, D. www.cafe-aroma.de.

Hochkirchstr. 8. T: 030.7825821. S+U Yorckstraße. D5

Der Goldene Hahn Italian. A cozy atmosphere, adept chefs, and occasional celebrity sightings make this a popular spot. The changing menu of creative daily specials elevates Der Goldene Hahn well above the run-ofthe-mill Italian restaurants that abound in Berlin. €€. Daily D. www.goldenerhahn.de. Pücklerstr. 20.

T: 030.6188098. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Festive Treats

Kantini International. Much more than just a food court, this dining destination in the west-end Bikini Berlin concept mall is a gathering place hosting 13 international street food makers, from Mexican tacos to Korean bibimbap to Hawaiian poke bowls.

Fresh, healthy cuisine and stylish design, with views onto the neighboring zoo. €–€€. Mon–Sat

STOLLEN Made with dried fruit, nuts, spices, and a marzipan center, then rolled in powdered sugar, Stollen is sure to change your mind about the oft-maligned fruitcake.

The centerpiece of Dresden's annual Stollenfest (5 December) is a several-ton version of the fruit bread, which is even paraded through the streets before being cut into pieces.

LEBKUCHEN The hard gingerbread used to make Lebkuchen hearts can be found year round at German fairs, but it’s the soft variety, which comes out during the holiday season, that everyone anticipates.

The Nürnberger Lebkuchen that have become the most famous today can be found in the gourmet section at KaDeWe (p.27).

BAUMKUCHEN This literally translates to "tree cake," due to its characteristic golden layers resembling the rings of a cut tree trunk.

To get this effect, a very thin layer of batter is repeatedly brushed onto a spit and allowed to bake on an open flame.

Pick up your sample at Christmas markets around town (p. 10).

MARZIPANKARTOFFELN You’ve probably already noticed the Germans love marzipan, but they also love potatoes, so trust them to create a special Christmas marzipan treat that's rolled into little balls and dusted with cocoa and cinnamon for that freshly harvested spud look. A box of Niederegger Lübeck marzipan potatoes can be bought at local supermarkets.

Italian. Healthful Italian food made with the best Italian ingredients and, whenever possible, with local produce. Many of the ingredients used, such as the beef and the pastas, are organic, and gluten-free options are available too. Order a pizza and salad, or

© ISTOCK PHOTOS

Mama Trattoria

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B, L, D. www.bikiniberlin.de/en/kantini. Budapester Str. 38–50. T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Rio GrandeAme International. This waterside restaurant serves an extensive selection of fine German and international dishes, from goulash to grilled fish and a variety of fresh salads, all in a classy setting. €€. Daily L&D. www.riogrande-berlin.de. MayAyim-Ufer 9. T: 030. 61074981. Schlesisches Tor.

Vivolo Olé Spanish. Authentic Spanish cuisine at Hackescher Markt, including a wide selection of tapas, paellas, grilled meats and fresh fish dishes. Vegetarian and vegan options available. www.vivolo.de.

Am Zwirngraben 11-12. T: 030.24631933.

S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Wilson's – The Prime Rib Restaurant American. Juicy, high-quality meats cooked the

American way and served with salads, potatoes and extravagant desserts. €€€. www.restaurant-wilsons. de. Crowne Plaza Berlin City Centre. Nürnberger Str. 65. T: 030.21007000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

Z Modern Greek There's nothing like high-quality

Mediterranean cuisine, and this restaurant prides itself on giving a modern twist to Greece's traditional dishes. The free-range meat, organic wines, and the many other high-quality products are imported directly from the southern European country. €€.

Daily L&D. www.rstaurant-z.de. Friesenstr. 12.

T: 030.6922716. U Platz der Luftbrücke. F1

VEGETARIAN/VEGAN Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55.

T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3

Katjes Veggie Café Grün-Ohr Vegetarian. It’s heaven for the sweet-toothed. The

shop and café by Katjes not only stocks the brand’s full line of vegetarian-friendly, gelatin-free gummy candy, but also a rainbow of vegan cupcakes, coffee, and freshly squeezed juices that can be enjoyed on site or to go. €. Rosenthaler Str. 32.

T: 030.97894702. www.cafegruenohr.de. F2

Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so

good, but rather a dedication to creating top-notch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€.

Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de.

U Senefelderplatz. F2

Lowkal Superfood The first low-carb, superfood café and restaurant in Berlin. No additional sugar used here, only fresh, seasonal produce full of all the vitamins, minerals, fructose, and fiber your body needs to power through the day without feeling lethargic. www.lowkal.berlin. Pfalzburger Str. 72A. T: 030.88720836.

U Hohenzollernplatz. B4

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from top left: Tchaikovsky's Nutcracker at Staatsballett; jazz concert; The Nutcracker; A magic show. Inset: The Magic Flute at Komische Oper.

Solveig Steinhardt picked five great shows that will boost your sense of wonder this season.

The air is crisp, the city is illuminated, people are rushing home carrying bags filled with presents, and the scent of mulled wine pervades the streets. Amid all this magic, there’s only one thing one can do: Find a cozy and warm place to spend the evening with a live show for additional holiday atmosphere.

The most magical place of all is, of course, the Magic Museum (Große Hamburger Str. 17).

Every Saturday and Sunday, and daily when Berlin schools are out (22–31 Dec), this small museum in Mitte invites the best illusionists and conjurers to perform old and new tricks in its tiny theater. The ticket also grants you entry to the exhibition, which takes visitors through the history of illusionism in Germany and beyond. For a dose of classic Christmas magic, get tickets to The Nutcracker (3, 7, 17, 25, 27 Dec, www.staatsballett-berlin.de). The scene where little Clara walks down the stairs in the

middle of the night to find the Sugarplum Fairy is guaranteed to awaken anybody’s Christmas spirit, and the two-act ballet has been a holiday classic ever since it was composed by Tchaikovsky in 1892. Those who are more into the values of the 18th-century Enlightenment movement should not miss Mozart’s Magic Flute. Its dark narrative and juxtaposition of underworld and righteousness, together with its marvelous music and frequent use of glockenspiel and chimes, fit perfectly with the symbolism of the holiday period, even for the more secular listeners.

But you don’t necessarily need to experience the supernatural to feel the magic of the holidays: Bach, for example, uses

harmony and choral beauty, together with an almost-mathematical musical perfection to create celestial atmospheres in the form of oratorios and motets. On 8 Dec, the Bach Chor and the Bach Collegium will be performing his Advent and Christmas Motets BWV 243 at the Gedächtniskirche – a great break from shopping on the Ku’damm. And if sacred music is not really your thing, why not boost your mood with some good red wine and a classy jazz concert?

A-Trane in Charlottenburg (Bleibtreustr. 1) holds nightly concerts exploring all the facets of jazz, from Big Band and Dixie to acid jazz and experimental.

THE NUTCRACKER: COURTESY OF STAATSBALLETT; THE MAGIC FLUTE: COURTESY OF KOMISCHE OPER, © IKO FREESE; ILLUSIONIST AND SAXOPHONE: © ISTOCK.

Holiday Magic

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ENTERTAINMENT

BALLET & OPERA Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic.

Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 1, 5 Dec: Les Contes d'Hoffmann (Offenbach). 6, 9 Dec: Tosca (Puccini). 13, 16 Dec: La Traviata (Verdi). 20, 29 Dec: Das schlaue Füchslein (Janacek). 22, 26, 31: Die Fledermaus (Strauss). 23, 28: Nabucco (Verdi). 30: Il Barbiere di Siviglia (Verdi).

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013.

Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 1, 12, 21, 31 Dec: Candide (Bernstein). 2, 8, 16 Dec: Die Liebe zu drei Orangen (Prokofiev). 6, 13, 22, 27 Dec: Die Perlen der Cleopatra (Straus). 7, 9 12,15, 16, 18, 19, 21, 23, 26 Dec: Die Zauberer von Oz (Valtinoni). 7, 19, 28 Dec: Cendrillon (Massenet). 9, 11, 15, 20, 26 Dec: Anatevka (Bock). 14, 25 Dec: Die tote Stadt (Korngold).

Dec: The Konzerthausorchester (cond. Fischer) with pianist András Schiff. 18 Dec: Wiener Philharmoniker (cond. Riccardo Muti). 28 Dec: The Brandenburgisches Staatsorcheter Frankfurt performs Beethoven's 9th Symphony. 31Dec: Lars Ranch & The Swinging Brass Band www. konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt.

T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 7–9 Dec: The Berliner Philharmoniker

Berlin’s newest concert hall is part of the Barenboim-Said Akademie, an institution dedicated to bringing together talented young

PAGANINI NIGHT Famous music by

Niccolò Paganini & Johannes Brahms

DMITRI BERLINSKY • Russian Chamber Philharmonic St. Petersburg • Cond. Juri Gilbo

04.01.19 • Fr 20 Uhr • BERLIN • Philharmonie

Berlin's historic opera house reopened in 2017 after lengthy renovations. Barenboim's perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. 1 Dec: L'Incoronazione di Poppea (Monteverdi). 2, 4, 6, 8 Dec: Hippoliyte et Aricie (Rameau). 7, 9, 13, 16, 19 Dec: Fidelio (Beethoven). 20, 23, 25 Dec: Falstaff (Wagner). 31 Dec: New year's concert. www.staatsoper-berlin.de.

T: 030.2035540. Unter den Linden 7.

U Alexanderplatz. E3

THE BEST OF 20 YEARS OF MUSICAL

THE BEST OF MUSICAL STARNIGHTS Top stars of the original productions & colorful costumes

14.01.19 • Mo 20 Uhr • BERLIN • Philharmonie

BEST OF ENNIO MORRICONE

Staatsballett

CLASSICAL CONCERTS

Pierre Boulez Saal

CULTURAL HIGHLIGHTS 2019 • BERLIN

Staatsoper Unter Den Linden

Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 3, 7, 14, 17, 25 Dec: The Nutcracker (Tchaikovski). www.staatsballett-berlin. de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

(cond. Gergiev) perform Debussy, Prokofiev and Stravisnky. 13–15 Dec: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Nelsons) perform Einfelde and Mahler. 20–22 Dec: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Fischer) perform Dvorak, Wolf, Schubert. 29–31 Dec: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Barenboim) perform Mozart and Ravel. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de.

Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1.

T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Over 100 soloists, singers & musicians of the Milano Festival Opera

With original movie scenes & screen animations!

THE HATEFUL 8 – DJANGO UNCHAINED – ONCE UPON A TIME IN THE WEST & MANY MORE

15.01.19 • Tue 20 Uhr • BERLIN • Philharmonie

THE PHANTOM OF THE OPERA

Berliner Dom

With world-star DEBORAH SASSON, musical-star UWE KRÖGER & big live orchestra

Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

„Deborah Sasson is pure magic -standing ovations!“ (FAZ)

Hochschule für Musik Hanns Eisler

THE CROWN OF RUSSIAN BALLET

25.01.19 • Fr 20 Uhr • BERLIN • Tempodrom

SWAN LAKE

One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies.

Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55.

T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

The Russian National Ballet from Moscow „Ballet at the highest level!“ (NZZ)

20.02.19 • Wed 16 & 20 Uhr

BERLIN • Stage Theater am Potsdamer Platz

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 3 Dec: Bolero Berlin. 31 Dec: Berliner Symphoniker, Lior Shambadal, Dagmar Schellenberger, Arkady Shilkloper. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1.

T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly.

2 Dec: Andrej Hermlin and his Swing Dance Orchestra. 2–6 Dec: Academy of Saint Martin in the Fields and Murray Perahia (piano). 7–9 Dec: The Konzerthausorchester (cond. Schwarz) performs Bach's Christmas Oratorio. 14–16

HEINZ ERHARDT Revue

THORSTEN HAMER, Ensemble & Live-Band „Cult evening with laugh guarantee.“ (Kölner Express)

25.02.19 • Mo 20 Uhr

BERLIN • Stage Theater am Potsdamer Platz

SPECTACULAR SCREEN-ANIMATION

THE BEST MUSIC OF 7 SEASONS!

GAME OF THRONES

100 performers, soloists, choir, orchestra!

THE LONDON FESTIVAL SYMPHONICS • Ltg. Steven Ellery

01.03.19 • Fr 20 Uhr

BERLIN • Stage Theater am Potsdamer Platz

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ENTERTAINMENT musicians from Arab, Israeli, and Christian backgrounds. A unique, modern design by the venerable Frank Gehry design ensures stunning acoustics, and co-founder Daniel Barenboim makes regular appearances on stage. www. boulezsaal.de. Französische Str. 33D. T: 030 47997411. U Französische Straße. E3

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de.

Tickets: 030.20298715.

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10;

Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040.

U Hallesches Tor. E4

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33.

T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Sophiensaele Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18.

T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

MOVIE THEATERS CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5.

T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

ON THIS MONTH ROCK, POP, JAZZ WITHIN TEMPTATION 8 Dec, C-Halle

ANDREJ HERMLIN AND HIS SWING DANCE ORCHESTRA 2 Dec, Konzerthaus

SLAYER 2 Dec, Mercedes-Benz Arena

MARIAH CAREY 5 Dec, Mercedes-Benz Arena

Roncalli Circus

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4.

T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116.

T: 030.78704019. S Schöneberg. C5

ROCK, POP, JAZZ A-Trane

Mariah Carey, aka “songbird supreme” as defined by the Guinness Book of Records due to her exceptional five-octave vocal range, is back in Berlin this month to spread holiday joy with her hugely successful Christmas tour. In addition to her timeless evergreen, All I Want For Christmas Is You, which has now become a holiday standard, Carey will be performing her most popular songs, including Touch My Body and We Belong Together.

Throughout her career, Carey has sold more than 200 million records and won five Grammy Awards and is one of the best-selling music artists of all time. Do not miss this once-in-a-lifetime concert at Mercedes-Benz-Arena on 4 December. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de

B-Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night, while Wednesdays offer free jam sessions. www.b-flatberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 13. T: 030.2833123.

U Rosenthaler Platz. F2

Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www. columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21.

T: 030.69812814.

U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Havanna The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton. Check website for program. www. havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30. T: 030.7848565.

S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5

Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

KulturBrauerei The early-1900s brewery complex now houses

BALLET & CLASSICAL CHRISTMAS ORATORIO 29 Dec, Konzerthaus

ANATEVKA 9, 11, 15, 20, 26 Dec, Komische Oper

BERLINER PHILHARMONIKER & BARENBOIM 29–31 Dec, Philharmonie

THEATER & MUSICALS DIE PERLEN DER CLEOPATRA 6, 13, 22, 27 Dec, Komische Oper

RONCALLI CIRCUS 21 Dec–6 Jan, Tempodrom

ANATEVKA 9, 11, 15, 20, 26 Dec, Komische Oper

BLUE MAN GROUP All month, Bluemax Theater

VIVID, GRAND SHOW All month, Friedrichstadt-Palast

CIRCA'S PEEPSHOW All month, Chamäleon Theater

CABARET To 23 Sep, Tipi am Kanzleramt

RONCALLI CIRCUS: COURTESY OF RONCALLI CIRCUS. , MARIAH CAREY, COURTESY OF PROMOTION.

All I Want For Christmas Is You

Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105.

T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

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ENTERTAINMENT various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de.

Schönhauser Allee 36.

T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. 2 Dec: Slayer. 4 Dec: Mariah Carey. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de.

Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899.

U Warschauer Straße. G4

NTIL O N LY U

2 4 .0 2 .2 0

19

Quasimodo One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de. Kantstr.

12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. 21 Dec–6 Jan: The Roncalli Circus.

31 Dec: The Deutsches Symphonie Orchster's

The evening is hosted by: Thomas Otto René Bazinet Massimo Rocchi Sophie Berner Massimo Rocchi Thomas Otto

22.08. – 11.11.

14.11. – 25.11.

28.11. – 09.12.

12.12. – 13.01.

16.01. – 20.01.

23.01. – 24.02.

Director: Rodrigue Funke

www.wintergarten-berlin.de Ticket-Hotline: 030 - 588 433 | Potsdamer Str. 96, 10785 Berlin

Discover Europe’s

©ISTOCK

A Poetic Life ®

Berlin

Poetry, comedy, and acrobatic power come together in Tandem, zusammen ANDERS, the new show by Circus Sonnentisch. Check it out on 17 December at Chamäleon Theater. www.chamaeleonberlin.de

CIRCUS SONNENSTICH_DIE MAIERS, © G. WESTRICH, COURTESY OF CHAMAELEON.

capital of nightlife

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EINE KOOPERATION DER RONCALLI EVENT GMBH UND DER SEMMEL CONCERTS ENTERTAINMENT GMBH.

New Year's Concert, featuring the Roncalli Circus. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast. de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24.

T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

. JAN ’19 21. DEZ ’18 BIS 6 TE M P O D R O M

Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English.

Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de.

Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where audiences can experience a young genre that mixes acrobatics with music, dance, and visual arts. 12, 19, 26 Dec: PSS PSS. 17 Dec: Tandem. All month: Circa's Peepshow. www. chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41.

T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin MUST SEE With the biggest stage in the world,

this is Berlin's most spectacular theater and a must-see acccording to The New York Times. Take in special effects and glitzy Vegas-style live shows.

All month: VIVID Grand Show. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326.

U Friedrichstraße. E3

TICKETS: WWW.EVENTIM.DE

030/47 997 477

01 I 12 I 2018 - 01 I 01 I 2019

ADMISSION FREE I OPEN AIR

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www. quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de.

Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater.

Many shows are in German. 15 Dec: CarringtonBrown, 10. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550.

U Bundestag. D3

The Magic Moment

XMAS SHOW AT SONY CENTER AM POTSDAMER PLATZ

DAILY ON THE HOUR MON - THURS 6 & 7 PM FRI - SAT 6 , 7 & 8 PM SUN 5, 6 & 7 PM

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. All month: Staunen, Circus of Stars. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96.

T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 www.wheretraveler.com 67

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

5, 4, 3, 2, 1… Happy New Year!

Don’t forget the champagne! Hilda Hoy suggests some great spots to ring in 2019.

New Year's Eve is definitely the party of the year in Berlin. Known in German as Silvester, the night is one long celebration, marked with food, friends, fizz, and, frankly, a rather frightening amount of fireworks exploding all over the streets and sky. The loudest party of all is always the one at Brandenburg Gate, said to be one of the biggest outdoor New Year’s Eve celebrations in the world. Bundle up and join 1 million or so thrill-seekers for free live music, DJs, dancing, food, drink, and a thrilling fireworks display at the stroke of 12.

The sale of fireworks is legal from 28–31 December, and many outlets pop up during this period to help locals stock up on their Silvester ammunition. To take part in the amateur pyrotechnic mayhem, head to

Kreuzberg's Viktoriapark, a popular spot for open-air partying and making the midnight countdown. The park's tall hill provides a great view of the city as it veritably explodes in fireworks at the stroke of 12.

If the thought of partying outdoors all night gives you the chills, there are naturally plenty of indoor celebrations as well. Given that the capital is chock-a-block with unique spaces, pick a party where the venue is as interesting as the DJ lineup. Mitte's Alte Münze, a sprawling historic complex formerly used as a state mint, will host a massive party in the shadow of the TV Tower.

Each of the eight dance floors will specialize in a different style of music, from house to hip hop to '80s and '90s classics, so there's sure to be something for every taste.

Friedrichshain's Kino International, a retro 1960s theater that was once the centerpiece of East Berlin's cultural scene, will host a groovy party with disco classics, house and electro, and even a karaoke floor.

And party animals can dance for days at the NYE Festival at Kreuzberg's Lohmühleninsel, a three-night-long (29–31 December) party marathon with eight dance floors and plenty of thudding bass for the techno freaks amongst you.

Can't make up your mind? The Silvester Ticket Berlin (www.silvester-party-berlin.de) offers all-inclusive access to the above parties plus five others, including bus or boat shuttles between the venues. With a total of 26 dance floors and all-inclusive drinks, a memorable night is guaranteed.

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BEER Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de.

Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649.

U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de.

Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930.

S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www.clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1.

T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952.

S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9.

T: 030.4485688.

U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options.

Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de.

Müller-Breslau-Str. T: 030.3139909.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4.

T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous.

Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50.

T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

The Unique Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Sheraton Berlin, Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15.

T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com.

Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090.

U Französische Straße. E3

Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57.

T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

Reingold

CLUBS

A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de.

Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676.

U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Traffic Club

Schwarzes Café

A young and fun club in Alexanderplatz, with music ranging from pop and house to commercial.

Good drinks. www.traffic-berlin.com.

Alexanderstr. 7. G4

WINE & COCKTAILS Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar.Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com.

Schiffbauerdamm 11.

T: 030.27582070.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Fragrances

© ISTOCK.

www.ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T: T:.030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical.

A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden. 24h a day except Tue from 3-10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin. de.Kantstr. 148.

T: 030.3138038. Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of cigars.www.weinrotrestaurant.com. Fasanenstr.

9-10. T: 030.311030.

Savignyplatz. C4 Take a break from shopping and celebrate the season with some delicious champagne at the newly renovated food section of KaDeWe (www.kadewe.de). www.wheretraveler.com 69

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION

BERLIN ESSENTIALS

Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone.

Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone.

Medical Services, T: 030.310031.

24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

€

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.

Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664.

Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333.

Poison hotline, T: 030.19240.

National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117.

Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board.

By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80.

By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35.

Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

TIPPING: In taxis, rounding up to the nearest couple of euros is the general practice, and the same applies when ordering a beer at the pub. In nicer bars and in restaurants or cafés, tipping around 10% is customary, more if you feel the service was especially good. While it is fine to leave the tip on the table, local practice is to add the tip to the payment when settling up. For example, if the bill is €13 and you want to tip €2, say “Fifteen” to the server when paying.

TAXIS: All taxis in Berlin are the same color of pale beige and are generally clean, safe, and courteous. The meter begins at €3.90 and increases at €2 per km. After the 7th km, the rate reduces to €1.50 / km. Payments by card may incur a €1.50 surcharge. For short rides of 2 km or less, the flat-rate €5 Kurzstrecke fare pays off. The Kurzstrecke rate only applies to hailed taxi rides (not from taxi stands) and must be requested at the start of the ride.

SAFETY: Berlin is a relatively safe city, but beware of pickpockets in busy areas. When in crowded U-Bahn stations, tourist sites, busy markets, and the like, pay close attention to your belongings and valuables.

Alexanderplatz, Kottbusser Tor, Breitscheidplatz, Tauentzienstraße, and around Warschauer Straße station are especially favored by pickpocketers.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz.

Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40.

By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40.

By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40.

By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas.

By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40.

Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4.

T: 030.60911150.

HEALTH: Few doctors’ practices open on weekends.

In urgent cases, call 030 310031 to request a home visit from an emergency doctor, or go to the nearest hospital emergency room. For medication, pharmacies offer rotating nighttime and weekend coverage (“Notdienst”).

Visit www.akberlin.de to search for one in your vicinity.

PHONES: The local area code for landline phones is 030. Mobile phones have a wide variety of four-digit dialing codes beginning with 015-, 016-, or 017-. When dialing from a non-German landline or mobile phone, drop the zero before the area code or dialing code and add the German country code: +49 or 0049. Dialing a 0180 number will incur tolls.

GETTING AROUND www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive.

Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip

from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.

VBB is a public transportation authority created to reconnect Berlin to the surrounding Brandenburg area after German reunification.It offers services to metropolitan Berlin as well as to the rural communities in the countryside of Brandenburg. www.vbb.de

© ISTOCK

Public Transport

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ESSENTIALS Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike.

Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de.

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

MONEY SERVICES Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172.

T: 030.20649296.

Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111.

T: 030.8904370.

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused.

Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

Berlin At Your Fingertips Have smartphone, will travel. Download the Where Berlin team’s favorite apps for enhancing any visit to the capital city. All of them are free, and available for both Android and Apple devices.

THE BERLIN WALL Made by the Federal Agency for Political Education, this award-winning app brings the Berlin Wall to life with interactive maps, archival photos and audio clips, walking tours, and more.

MY TAXI Hail a ride using the My Taxi app, which also offers the option of making mobile payments.

DICT.CC A thorough, accurate, and easy-to-use German dictionary app that will have you communicating in no time.

FAHRINFO PLUS Get from A to B easily and efficiently with the BVG transit network’s app.

Besides route guidance and live departure info, the app also lets you buy mobile tickets to avoid fiddling with clunky ticket machines.

MEETUP Whether you’re in the mood to do yoga, play board games, or just find some new friends, the Meetup.com community in Berlin is lively and warm. A great way to meet locals and fill your social calendar.

DURST When the hour is late and the craving hits for some beer, chocolate, smokes, snacks, or any other life necessities, open this app to find the closest Späti (late-night corner store) in your vicinity.

MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG- 015-2-18.1-1;.

Stand: 7. Mai 2018 © Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) 015-2-18.1-1

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16/08/2018 09:30

WHERE NOW | ANN-CHRISTIN BERTRAND

ANN-CHRISTIN BERTRAND CURATOR In her role as curator for C/O Berlin, Ann-Christin oversees the program of one of Berlin's preeminent photo institutions, with a dedication to reflecting all the aspects of a multifaceted medium. Opening on 7 December are two new exhibitions: The Last Image: Photography and Death, featuring gripping images from the dawn of photography to the present day, plus a selection of vintage and new works by Japanese photographer Nobuyoshi Araki. www.co-berlin.org

How would you sum up the aims of C/O Berlin?

In the beginning, we had a lot more focus on documentary photography. But since our move to the Amerika Haus in 2014 we have been looking at more conceptual photography as well. We are trying to give a platform to very different aspects of photography. It's very diverse, and we want to follow the medium in its changes and transitions. We try to pair retrospectives of stars like Anton Corbijn, Annie Leibovitz, and Martin Parr with more experimental shows by younger, more emerging artists.

Another very important aspect is education. We have a very diverse program of workshops for everyone, from little ones to teenagers to adults. It's about showing people how to deal more consciously with the medium of photography.

In what ways did C/O Berlin change with its 2014 move from Mitte to Charlottenburg's Amerika Haus?

Before the move, we were picking up touring exhibitions and adapting them to the Berlin market, but now we are initiating and curating programs ourselves. In the Amerika Haus we really have museum-standard facilities, in terms of lighting and climate

control. In Mitte's Postfuhramt it was much more rock and roll, but it also put certain limits on our program. Now we have much more freedom and possibilities. For us, the peak was this year's Irving Penn exhibition, a cooperation with the Met in New York. This wouldn't have been possible in our old space.

What are some ways that photography has been changing, and how does your program reflect this?

The medium is getting so diverse.

Photography is everywhere. It's on the streets, on our phones, on our computer screens.

Nowadays, everyone can take photographs.

We are changing from a text-based society to an image-based society. So I think as an institution it is important for us to create an awareness of how to critically perceive photography. We'll sometimes exhibit more experimental pieces where there is photographic thinking behind the work, or in the process or distribution, but photography doesn't necessarily have to be a print that is framed and hung on the wall anymore.

What other places in Berlin would you recommend for photography buffs?

Around here is really the cluster for photography, with the Museum of

Photography and Helmut Newton Foundation just across the street from the C/O. Besides those, I'd also recommend the Robert Morat gallery (www.robertmorat.de) and Klemm's (www.klemms-berlin.com) for more contemporary positions on photography. Galerie Thomas Fischer (www. galeriethomasfischer.de) has a good program as well. And Kicken (www.kicken-gallery.com) in Linienstraße – they're one of the oldest galleries for photography in Germany.

When you're not working, what do you like to do in your free time?

I love to go out to eat, like at Lokal in Linienstraße. They use local ingredients of very high quality, a bit like new Nordic cuisine style, but done in a Berlin way. I also like going outside Berlin to discover places in the surrounding region, like Forsthaus Strelitz (www.forsthaus-strelitz.de). The food is incredible and I really like how you have this traditional home but with new design concepts. They're surrounded by beautiful nature and even grow their own vegetables and fruit.

Clockwise from top left: An exhibition at C/O; Ann-Christin Bertrand; The Museum of Photography; The C/O bookstore; C/O's location in the Amerika Haus.

ANN-CHRISTIN BETRAND: © DAVID VON BECKER; AMERIKA HAUS BUILDING: © MILA HACKE; BOOK STORE, EXHIBITION: COURTESY OF C/O BERLIN; MUSEUM FÜR FOTOGRAFIE. BERLIN-CHARLOTTENBURG, JEBENSSTRASSE 2. © STEFAN MÜLLER.

My Berlin

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WELCOME TO OUR CHRISTMAS WORLD Christmas Market & Candy Shop Level 5

182974

Opening Hours in December Dec. 1st - 22nd Dec 24th Dec 27th - 29th Dec 31st

9:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.

9:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.

9:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.

9:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.

Open on Sunday Dec 9th 1:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m.

Dec 23rd 1:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m.

Galeria Kaufhof GmbH | Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1 | 50676 Kรถln

BERLIN, ALEXANDERPLATZ P

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Underground car park at Alexanderplatz (open 24 hours a day) 13/11/2018 09:29