Where Magazine New Orleans March 2024 by Morris Media Network

NEW ORLEANS MAR 2024

10 TOP TO-DOS FROM STROLLING THE GARDEN DISTRICT TO SIPPING SAZERACS

Sweets Talk Explore the Irish Channel Concerts, Festivals, Parades and More Spring Flings

Available for private parties A New Orleans Tradition 622 Canal • 600 Decatur • 334 Royal • 311 Bourbon

www.cafebeignet.com

CAFEBEIGNET_00101976_#00563503.indd 1

6/2/22 1:38 PM

Visit The

BEVOLO LIGHTING MUSEUM on Exchange Alley • 316 Royal St.

Watch how Generations of Craftsmen have built THE ORIGINAL FRENCH QUARTER LANTERN TM

bevolo.com • 504-522-9485 • 521 Conti • 304 • 316 • 318 Royal • French Quarter • New Orleans

ALTERED STATES of March

Art & Ey&s

3708 Magazine St. 504-891-4494 ArtAndEyesNewOrleansLA.com

I N DY E Y E W E A R … LIKE NOWHERE ELSE

Picasso

Jose Basso

Mr. Brainwash

Rembrandt

HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS ! “The #1 Tour Company in New Orleans” - A MUST DO!” - Travel Channel

MULTIPLE DAILY & NIGHTLY TOURS Ghost • Voodoo • Vampire • Cemetery • Pub Crawl French Quarter • Garden District • True Crime Movie Sites • Walking Tours / Bus Tours

Book Your Tours Today!

HauntedHistoryTours.com 504-861-2727 THESE are the tours you’ve heard about!

24-0027 | Where Magazine Ad Update- Feb 2024_FINAL.pdf

1/8/24

10:57 AM

NEW

L I B E R AT I O N PAV I L I O N

#1 Attraction in New Orleans

CMY

Explore how the war continues to impact our lives today through this three-story exhibit hall highlighting

the end of World War II, The Holocaust, and The Postwar Years

THE NEW LIBERATION PAVILION

Featuring exhibits on the Holocaust, Anne Frank, the Monuments Men and Women, the postwar campaign for freedom and human rights. Don't miss the new Freedom Theater experience!

New SPECIAL EXHIBITION

on the 350,000 American women who served their country in World War II

yle and tion the Ga ounda ted by table F ri presen a h C son n e B Tom

CONTENTS

12 A 10-point primer to get you in a New Orelans state of mind.

MAR 2024

ESSENTIALS Editor’s Note 8 Calendar 10 Maps 37 Parting Shot 40

On the Beat Spend a day roaming the Irish Channel neighborhood, home to this month’s St. Patrick’s Parade.

ON THE

COVER

Tiramisu cannoli, figfilled cuccudati, chocolate-hazelnut fondue, candied pecan-praline syrup-vanilla ice cream parfaits: Who needs dinner?



Fleurs-de-lis and cast iron: Two symbols synonymous with New Orleans. ©ISAAC ARJONILLA

Just Desserts

(FROM TOP) ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©SHAWN FINK; ©THE COUNTRY CLUB

THE GUIDE Dining 19 Shopping 28 Attractions 31 Entertainment 33 Nightlife 33

THE

EDITOR’S NOTE 2024

MARCH

DOUG BRANTLEY Editor, WhereTraveler ® New Orleans @whereneworleans

hen I moved here 20-plus years ago, I thought I knew New Orleans. Like many small-town Southerners, it had been my family’s big city go-to. As a child, we lived here for a few years before moving to rural Alabama and visited often after. Later, college friends and I would pull all-nighters, sneaking off for a couple of wide-eyed hours on Bourbon Street, before loading up on beignets and café au laits for the long drive home. Bourbon Street and beignets—New Orleans in a nutshell, right? As I’ve learned over the past two decades, it’s a bit broader than that. With its three centuries of backstory, multilayered history and one-of-a-kind culture, it could take another two decades just to scratch the surface. So, where should a first-time visitor begin? With this month’s crash course on Crescent City fundamentals. From its iconic architecture and aboveground tombs to its world-renowned cuisine and jumping jazz clubs, there’s a lot to see, do, experience and discover. You’ll find even more must-dos in our March Calendar of events: St. Patrick’s parties, a trio of Easter parades, two literary festivals, free outdoor concerts, Olivia Rodrigo, Nicki Minaj, Drake. Elsewhere in this issue, we take a tour of the Irish Channel neighborhood and dig into a variety of delicious desserts. You’ve got your March-ing orders—now, get going! And remember to hit Bourbon Street and grab some beignets before heading home.

C i n dy Br e nn a n 8

W HERETRAVELE R ® NE W ORLE A NS

201 Royal StReet ~ FRench QuaRteR ~ new oRleanS 504 -5 2 3 -2 0 7 8 ~ w w w .m rb sb i st ro .co m

MARCH 2024

NEW ORLEANS

CRESCENT CITY

PUBLISHER

BREWHOUSE

Lois Sutton, 504.522.6468, lois.sutton@morris.com EDITOR

Doug Brantley ART DIRECTOR

Hadley Kincaid CONTRIBUTORS

Jenny Adams, Shawn Fink, Lorin Gaudin, Kim Ranjbar, Terri Simon ACCOUNT MANAGER

Vincent Tortorich, 504.522.6468, vincent.tortorich@morris.com

A PUBLICATION OF MCC MAGAZINES, LLC

JAZZ

LIVE REAL

a division of Morris Communications Company, LLC 735 Broad Street, Augusta, GA 30901

MCC MAGAZINES, LLC

FOOD

SERIOUS

PRESIDENT

Tina Battock

VICE PRESIDENT

Scott Ferguson

DIRECTOR — MANUFACTURING & PRODUCTION

BEER

Sherry Brown

ACCOUNTING MANAGER

Veronica Brooks

CIRCULATION BUSINESS MANAGER

Michelle Rowe

MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS COMPANY, LLC CHAIRMAN

William S. Morris III CEO

Craig S. Mitchell

THE

FAMILY FRIENDLY

FRENCH QUARTER’S FIRST AND ONLY

MICROBREWERY & RESTAURANT

BALCONY RIVERFRONT VIEWS PRIVATE EVENT SPACE AVAILABLE

©2024 by MCC Magazines, LLC. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in the publication, including any errors or omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement. Printed in the United States of America

527 DECATUR STREET • NEW ORLEANS, LA 70130 504.522.0571

WWW.CCBNO.COM 9

THE

SUPER SUNDAY

EASTER PARADES

Black Masking Indian gangs hit the streets, preening and strutting their feathered finery around A.L. Davis Park (Washington and Lasalle streets, starting at noon), battling for the title of “prettiest.”

Bunny hop between the Historic French Quarter Easter Parade at 9:45 am (Antoine’s), the French Quarter Easter Parade at 1 pm (Omni Royal Orleans) and the Gay Easter Parade at 4:30 pm (St. Ann and N. Rampart).

MARCH 17

CALENDAR 2024

MARCH 31

MARCH

NEW ORLEANS BOOK FESTIVAL

EASTER PARADES

Billed as “Mardi Gras for the mind,” the New Orleans Book Festival brings more than 100 leading authors (Ken Burns, Walter Isaacson, Michael Lewis), politicos (Stacy Abrams, Michele Miller [pictured below with Eric Holder], Jake Tapper) and multiple Pulitzer winners (Maggie Haberman, Steven Hahn, Viet Thanh Nguyen) to Tulane University for a jam-packed lineup of panels and discussions. Now in its third year, the fest has grown so popular, First Lady Jill Biden dropped by in 2023 for a listen; you should too. bookfest.tulane.edu



SUPER SUNDAY

(FROM TOP) ©SUZANNE C. GRIM/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; ©PABLEAUX JOHNSON/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©TULANE UNIVERSITY

MARCH 14-16

NEW ORLEANS BOOK FESTIVAL

10 W HERETRAVELE R

NE W ORLE A NS

MARCH 2024

ENTERTAINMENT

THE

TOP STOPS

CALENDAR WHAT’S HAPPENING

THE LINEUP

GREAT THINGS



(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) ©SHAWN FINK (2); ©NICK WALKER

New Orleans Pelicans Throughout the Month The Pels play seven home games this month, starting with the Indiana Pacers (Mar. 1) and ending with the Boston Celtics (Mar. 30). For a full lineup, visit smoothiekingcenter.com. Olivia Rodrigo March 2 The 20-year-old, three-time Grammy winner pulls into town on her “GUTS” tour, parking it for the night at the Smoothie King Center. smoothiekingcenter.com Wednesday at the Square March 6, 13, 20 & 27 The free outdoor concert series returns to Lafayette Square (St. Charles and Lafayette) featuring two acts each evening beginning at 5 pm. ylcwats.com Drake March 6 & 7 Initially set to kick off his

ST. PATRICK’S PARADE MARCH 16 Grab a green beer and head for Magazine and Felicity streets, where the Irish Channel St. Patrick’s Day Parade kicks off at 1 pm. Bring a bag: In addition to green, white and orange beads (along with flowers and garters, in exchange for a kiss), you’ll clean up on cabbages, carrots, onions and potatoes—and if you’re lucky, bars of Irish Spring soap. irishchannelno.org

OLIVIA RODRIGO

STELLA & STANLEY SHOUT-OFF

“It’s All a Blur” tour here last June, Drake postponed his appearance until September, when he canceled again…and then again in January. All good. This month’s back-to-back performances with J. Cole should make up for it. smoothiekingcenter.com

Nicki Minaj March 18 Purple, green and gold is so last month. It’s all about pink when Harajuku Barbie—aka the Queen of Rap—lands at the Smoothie King Center on her “Pink Friday 2” tour. smoothie kingcenter.com

Stella & Stanley Shouting Contest March 17 Budding Brandos recreate his famous bellow from “A Streetcar Named Desire” at Jackson Square at 2 pm, kicking off the 38th annual Tennessee Williams Literary Festival, which follows March 20-24. tennessee williams.net

Congo Square Rhythms Festival March 23-24 African dance and drum circles, Caribbean food, brass bands, Black Masking Indians, art and craft vendors: New Orleans culture is on full display during this free two-day affair at Armstrong Park. jazzandheritage.org

CIVIC THEATRE Mar. 22: Jimmy Carr; Mar. 27: Circle Jerks. civicnola.com HOUSE OF BLUES Mar. 4: Sammy Rae & The Friends; Mar. 6: Living Colour; Mar. 17: Billy Prine; Mar. 22: Michael Martin Murphey. hob.com JOY THEATER Mar. 1: Dusty Slay; Mar. 8: Sleater-Kinney; Mar. 16: Nate Jackson; Mar. 19: Hippie Sabatoge; Mar. 24: A.J. Croce. thejoytheater.com LE PETIT THEATRE Mar. 7-31: “Beautiful: The Carole King Musical.” lepetittheatre.com MAHALIA JACKSON THEATER Mar. 2: Les Ballets de Monte-Carlo’s “Swan Lake”; Mar. 28: Michael Flatley’s “Lord of the Dance.” mahaliajacksontheater.com NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MUSEUM Mar. 6-10: Danny Barker Banjo & Guitar Festival. dannybarkerfestival.com ORPHEUM THEATRE Mar. 2: John Crist; Mar. 16: Pat Metheny; Mar. 23: David Spade. orpheumnola.net SAENGER THEATRE Mar. 9: Champions of Magic; Mar. 18: Jim Gaffigan; Mar. 29-30: Theo Von. saengernola.com SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Mar. 3: Banda MS; Mar. 9-10: Hot Wheels Monster Trucks; Mar. 14: Burna Boy. smoothiekingcenter.com

NEW ORLEANS

WHERE NOW

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ

Where Now

NOLA 101



(CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) ©ISAAC ARJONILLA; ©CHERYL GERBER/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©PRESERVATION HALL; (OPENING PAGE) ©KERRY MCCAFFETY

New Orleans newbie? Ten Big Easy basics to check off your to-do list.

DOUG BRANTLEY

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: AN ORNATE DOUBLE-GALLERY GARDEN DISTRICT MANSE, THE ST. CHARLES STREETCAR AND PRESERVATION HALL

ARCHITECTURE

MISSISSIPPI RIVER

With the French Quarter’s Creole townhouses, the Garden District’s Greek Revival and Queen Anne mansions, Bywater’s double shotguns and Mid-City’s Craftsman cottages, New Orleans acts as a living museum for building buffs.

From its source at Minnesota’s Lake Itasca, the mighty Mississippi meanders 2,320 miles through 10 states before spilling into the Gulf of Mexico. But due to New Orleans’ below-sea level positioning, many visitors never catch sight of it.

 Experience: Every neighborhood has its own distinctive style and vibe; take a walk and take it all in all. Want a peek inside? Historic Hermann-Grima, Gallier, Pitot, Longue Vue and BK House & Gardens (p. 32) all offer tours.  Explore: Located in a circa-1853 building designed by famed local architect James Gallier, the Preservation Resource Center (p. 33) is devoted to maintaining the city’s outward aesthetics.

 Experience: Walkable Woldenberg Park (p. 32) runs along the riverfront from Canal Street through the Quarter, connecting to Crescent Park. The Natchez and Creole Queen offer daily river excursions, as does the Algiers ferry (p. 33).  Explore: At Vue Orleans (p. 32), you can pilot virtual riverboats and scope out unparalleled views from the 34th floor, while the nearby Audubon Aquarium (p. 31) examines what goes on down below.

STREETCARS

JAZZ

From the mid 19th to early 20th century, dozens of streetcars crisscrossed the city; today there are only four currently in operation.

During the early 1800s, enslaved people would gather in Congo Square (now part of Louis Armstrong Park) to drum, dance and sing, and it is here that jazz is said to have first taken root.

 Experience: The St. Charles line ranks as the city’s longest and the nation’s oldest. Its iconic Perley A. Thomas cars provide the perfect perch for viewing Uptown architecture for just $1.25.  Explore: At the Historic New Orleans Collection (p. 32), you’ll spot a sign from the now-defunct Desire line, made famous by playwright Tennessee Williams.

 Experience: The seating may be limited at Preservation Hall (p. 36), but it’s worth standing to hear such jazz greats as Wendall Brunious, Leroy Jones and Shannon Powell.  Explore: Site of the first Jazzfest, Armstrong Park (p. 31) is peppered with statues of early jazz musicians, including its namesake,

Where Now

whose first cornet is on view at the New Orleans Jazz Museum (p. 33).

culinary-themed exhibits spotlighting each state in the South.

Carnival costumery and “Mardi Gras Satire” highlights the humor of it all.

CREOLE/CAJUN CUISINE

CARNIVAL

BLACK MASKING INDIANS

Gumbo, jambalaya, étouffée, red beans and rice, andouille, boudin, muffulettas, po’ boys, shrimp, crab, crawfish: What would New Orleans be without the foods and dishes that define its signature cuisine? As the saying goes—we don’t eat to live, we live to eat.

Those colorful beads dangling from the oaks lining St. Charles Avenue? They’re remnants of “the greatest free party on earth,” which takes place each winter.

Tracing back centuries, the Black Masking Indians—aka Mardi Gras Indians—pay tribute to the connections between enslaved Africans and the Native people of south Louisiana. Their intricate, hand-beaded and -feathered “suits” can take up to a year to construct.

ING AN UPTOWN FENCE, CHICKEN-AND-ANDOUILLE GUMBO FROM

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©HERBSAINT; ©SHAWN FINK

 Experience: Tribe members parade their brilliant plumage along Claiborne Avenue on Mardi Gras Day, around the Fair Grounds during Jazzfest and at A.L. Davis Park starting at noon on Super Sunday (Mar. 17; p. 10).  Explore: Elaborate Indian regalia is

HERBSAINT AND A BLACK MASKING INDIAN



 Experience: From the Four Seasons to neighborhood corner stores, there’s “good eatin’” to be had at every turn. Bring home a little local flavor via a how-to demo at the New Orleans School of Cooking (p. 31).  Explore: Hands-on cooking classes are also on the menu at the Southern Food & Beverage Museum (p. 33), which features

 Experience: It’s Carnival time 365 days of the year at Mardi Gras World (p. 31), where the majority of the city’s Carnival floats are built and stored. The massive warehouse offers self-guided tours, during which you’ll likely see float artists at work.  Explore: The Louisiana State Museum’s (p. 32) “Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana” exhibit at the Presbytère provides a broad overview of Fat Tuesday traditions, while “To Be a Star” showcases

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: MARDI GRAS BEADS DECORAT-

14 W HERETRAVELER

NE W ORLE A NS

MARCH 2024

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©SHAWN FINK; ©CHERYL GERBER/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©SHAWN FINK 

on display year-round at the Backstreet Cultural Museum (p. 32).

processions on film before his own death in 2020.

CEMETERIES

VOODOO

Celebrating death may seem odd elsewhere, but here jazz funerals are a way of life. New Orleans’ aboveground “cities of the dead” serve as windows on the past, offering insight into local history and customs.

Like its cuisine, New Orleans voodoo is a gumbo of cultures, combining West African vudun and Haitian vodou with European Catholicism. The city’s most famous practitioner was Marie Laveau during the 1800s.

 Experience: The city counts close to 50 cemeteries, with St. Louis No. 1 its oldest and most visited. Its tombs include some of the most prominent figures in New Orleans history. Guided excursions are available through Cemetery Tours NOLA (p. 33).  Explore: Backstreet Cultural Museum founder Sylvester Francis documented more than 500 jazz funerals and second-line

 Experience: You’ll spot cheap gris-gris bags all over town. But for real-deal chicken-foot charms, stop by the Island of Salvation Botanica (p. 30), home to modern-day voodoo priestess Sally Ann Glassman.  Explore: Crammed with relics, the New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum (p. 33) also conducts tours of legendary voodoo haunts, including Laveau’s former home.

SAZERACS Named “the official cocktail of New Orleans” by the Louisiana State Legislature in 2008, the Sazerac dates to 1838 when it was first poured by apothecary Antoine Amédée Peychaud at 437 Royal Street.  Experience: Nearly every bar in the city serves Sazeracs, including Peychaud’s (p. 36) where its originator once lived. But if you’re going to sip just one, make it at Roosevelt Hotel’s retro-cool Sazerac Bar (p. 36), where the 1930s Paul Ninas murals are alone worth a visit.  Explore: The Sazerac House (p. 33) pays homage to the city’s cocktail culture and liquid lore with free tours of the three-story museum, where guests are treated to samples along the way.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ST. LOUIS CEMETERY NO. 1, THE SAZERAC BAR AND VOODOO PRIESTESS SALLIE ANN GLASSMAN PERFORMING A HEADWASHING RITUAL ON BAYOU ST. JOHN

ON THE BEAT KIM RANJBAR

FIND THE BEST IN

IRISH CHANNEL

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: IRISH CHANNEL PARADE, TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY, JOSE BALLI AND

SHOP

EAT

PLAY

Cruise Tchoupitoulas to see the Floodwall Mural, a milelong art project depicting local history, culture and wildlife. Cross over to Magazine Street for the bold works of artist Terrance Osborne, who gained national recognition illustrating creative housing solutions after Hurricane Katrina. Then check out circa-1860 St. Mary’s Assumption Church, featuring Baroque Revival architecture.

Dance into the Disco Warehouse, which offers one-of-a-kind furniture and art. Dig in at the Urban Roots Garden Center, just down the street, where you’ll find seasonal plants, along with a gift and coffee shop, goats, ducks, bunnies and more. For a sterling experience, swing by Jose Balli where father-and-daughter designed jewelry captures Louisiana’s treasures in silver.

Break bread along Magazine Street, starting at Levee Baking Co. with croissant or biscuit breakfast sandwiches and vegan salted chocolate chip cookies. Hit Molly’s Rise and Shine for a Grand Slam “McMuffin” or a collard greens-and-grits bowl with poached eggs and cilantro-peanut salad. Enjoy charbroiled oysters, crawfish pupusas and coconut-crusted red snapper at chef Edgar Caro’s Basin Seafood & Spirits.

Go green at Parasol’s with beer and roast beef po’boys during the bar’s annual block party (Mar. 16), celebrating St. Patrick’s Day and the must-catch Irish Channel Parade. Paddle over to The Exchange to play a few rounds of pickleball and ping-pong. Celebrate your wins (or nurse your losses) at the in-house bar and eatery. A Pickle Smash Mary and deep-fried pickle chips make an ideal order.

 Disco Warehouse

 Levee Baking Co.

 Parasol’s

3101 Tchoupitoulas St.; discowarehouse.net

3138 Magazine St., Suite D; leveebakingco.com

2533 Constance St.; facebook.com/ParasolsNOLA

 Urban Roots Garden Center

 Molly’s Rise & Shine

 Irish Channel St. Patrick’s Day Parade

 Tchoupitoulas Street Floodwall Mural tchoupitoulasartcorridor.org

 Terrance Osborne Gallery 3029 Magazine St.; terranceosborne.com

 St. Mary’s Assumption Church 923 Josephine St.; stalphonsusno.com

16 W HERETRAVELE R

NE W ORLE A NS

2375 Tchoupitoulas St.; urbanrootsnola.com

2368 Magazine St.; mollysriseandshine.com

 Jose Balli

 Basin Seafood & Spirits

3138 Magazine St., Suite A; joseballi.com

3222 Magazine St.; basinseafood.com

Starting at Magazine and Felicity; irishchannelno.org

 The Exchange NOLA 2120 Rousseau St.; theexchangenola.com

MARCH 2024



SEE

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; ©TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY; ©JOSE BALLI; ©LEVEE BAKING CO.

LEVEE BAKING

Where Now 1

JUST DESSERTS N

ew Orleans has a bit of a sweet tooth, with a number of sweets and desserts indelibly connected to the city: Think beignets, pralines and bread pudding. Recently there has been a notable uptick in dessert offerings from old-school to new cool bakeries, cafés and restaurants. LORIN GAUDIN



(FROM TOP) ©CHERYL GERBER; ©THE COUNTRY CLUB; ©COMMANDER’S PALACE

ANGELO BROCATO

A legendary stop for Italian pastries, cookies, cakes and beautiful hand-filled vanilla and chocolate cannoli (the minis are divine with an espresso), at 119 years, this old dog has plenty of new tricks. On weekends they roll out specials, like the recent tiramisu cannoli filled with coffee mascarpone. During March, the shop is filled with St. Joseph’s Day baked goods. We’re partial to the sesame seed cookies, fig-filled cuccidati and custard creamfilled, cherry-topped San Giuseppe pastry. On the regular, there’s incredible gelato, rum-laced biscuit tortoni, spumoni, cake slices, and, and, and…. 214 N. CARROLLTON AVE., 504.486.0078

THE COUNTRY CLUB

There’s always something traditional-cool to try on pastry chef Lisa Barbato’s ever-changing dessert menu. Right now, taking a dip means more than hopping into the Club’s super-fun backyard pool, it’s also about Barbato’s killer Chocolate-Hazelnut Fondue. Homemade

popcorn balls and madeleines, seasonal fruits, candied bourbon bacon and more are served with a melty, rich hazelnut-laced chocolate dip. Glorious. Get something sparkly to sip alongside. 634 LOUISA ST., 504.945.0742

COMMANDER’S PALACE

Impeccable is the word to describe Commander’s. Impeccable food, service, hospitality and décor—every detail is considered. Executive chef Meg Bickford’s savory menu gets well-deserved praise and press. Also noteworthy are the restaurant’s final touches: its desserts. Sure, the Bread Pudding Soufflé is stunning. Yes, the Bananas Foster is divine. But Lally’s Praline Parfait is in a word “parfait” (perfect). An old-fashioned parfait glass is layered with handmade vanilla ice cream, gobs of crunchy candied pecans, sticky praline syrup and a generous cloud of whipped cream on top. The trick is to scoop up the perfect bite of all the layers, top to bottom. You will not want to share. 1403 WASHINGTON AVE., 504.899.8221

THE

GUIDE OUR

CAVIAR DREAMS

At Fives (p. 36), the caviar service includes potato chips and cornmeal bilinis. As of press time, the following listings were up to date but subject to change; call to verify hours.

FAVORITES

LOOK FOR our featured advertisers throughout the Guide.



©CORY JAMES FONTENOT

Central Business/ Warehouse District BÉSAME Latin. Chef Nanyo Dominguez’s Latin American menu covers a lot of ground: Oaxacan-style ceviche, crispy cauliflower tapas, Yucatan pork. For big appetites, the seafood paella more than satisfies. L (ThSu), D (W-M). 110 S. Rampart St., 504.308.0880. Map 3, E3; besame-nola.com BEARCAT CAFÉ Eclectic. At this popular brunch spot the menu is divided into Good Cat/Bad Cat options. On the naughty side, there’s a lush scramble of eggs and crabmeat or a decadent fried chicken club; to play nice, order the tofu scramble with black bean “sausage.” B, L (Tu-Su). 845 Carondelet St. 504.766.7399. 2521 Jena St., 504.309.9001. bearcatcafe.com

CAFÉ NORMANDIE French. This National WWII Museum eatery leans classic French with American twists. Dig into short rib-and-grits beignets or an au poivre burger. B (daily), L (M-Sa); Br (Su). 1000 Magazine St. (in the Higgins Hotel), 504.528.1941. Map 3, B6; higginshotelnola.com CHEMIN À LA MER Louisiana. French for “path to the sea,” chef Donald Link’s gorgeous Four Seasons space offers incredible views of the Mississippi, a well-stocked raw bar and top-tier steaks. B, L, D (daily). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5898. Map 3, E7; cheminalamer.com

COMMONS CLUB Louisiana. The ramped-up regional fare here is anything but common. Duck confit hash with celery root and mushroom ragu, Iberico pork flank with crab dirty rice, Wagyu burgers with cave-aged cheddar, horseradish and beer mustard—see what we mean? D (nightly); Br (W-Su). 550 Baronne St. (in the Virgin Hotel), 833.791.7700. Map 3, C4; virginhotels.com/new-orleans COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia, chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as blackened pig ears with smoked aioli, jerk pork belly and curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi. D (nightly); Br (Su). 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6; comperelapin.com COPPER VINE American. Along with 30 varietals on tap and an additional 20 by the glass, this easygoing “wine pub” serves up duck fat fries, a wide variety of flatbreads and heartier fare, such as redfish amandine. L (MF), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1001 Poydras St., 504.208.9535. Map 3, C4; coppervine.com COUVANT French. A slick, contemporary French bistro inside the Eliza Jane hotel. Standouts include gougères with truffled Mornay sauce, escargot en croute and steak frites. Br (daily), L (MTh), D (Tu-Sa). 317 Magazine St., 504.342.2316. Map 3, D5; couvant.com THE DAILY BEET Vegetarian. Light, healthy eats and cold-pressed juices are the draw at these hip cafés. Tuck into a shaved Brussels

sprouts salad or an Orbit Bowl of warm wild rice, avocado, runny egg, kimchi and pickled veg. B, L (daily). 1000 Girod St., 504.605.4413. Map 3, C4; B, L, D (daily). 3300 Magazine St., 504.766.0377. Map 1, D4; thedailybeetnola.com DEVIL MOON BBQ Barbecue. Pop into this daytime operation for counter service of barbecue plates, sandwiches and sides. Start with the meaty-fatty pork cracklings, followed by juicy brisket, tender ribs and homemade sausage. L (Tu-Su). 1188 Girod St., 504.788.0093. Map 3, B4; devilmoonbbq.com DOMENICA Italian. Out-of-the-norm antipasti (roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as pork ragu lasagna. Mangia, mangia! L, D (daily). 123 Baronne St., 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3; domenicarestaurant.com EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship set the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, the restaurant is now under the helm of his son, E.J., whose top-notch team turns out multicourse tasting menus, both classic and seasonal. The adjacent Wine Bar serves up sharable small plates. D (Tu-Sa). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurant.com EMERIL’S BRASSERIE French. This family friendly spot in Harrah’s Casino serves Lagasse’s take on classic French brasserie food (onion soup, tarte flambé, steak tartare), in addition to Creole-flavored fare (turkey gumbo, crawfish pasta, spicy hogs head cheese). D (nightly). 228 Poydras St., 800.427.7247. Map 3, D6; caesars.com/harrahsnew-orleans GIANNA Italian. Rustic Italian fare is the order here. Chopped salad, meatballs in red gravy, lamb lasagna, veal saltimbocca; finish with a gelato and biscotti. L, D (daily). 700 Magazine

St., 504.399.0816. Map 3, C6; giannarestaurant.com GRAND ISLE Seafood. This comfy seafood house boasts such standouts as smoked fried oysters, hot crab dip and other Southern favorites. Grab a seat at the bar for shrimp by the pound and cold beer from taps encased in ice. L (F-Su), D (W-Su). 575 Convention Center Blvd., 504.520.8530. Map 3, D6; grandislerestaurant.com HERBSAINT French. One of the city’s premier fine dining spots. The award-winning menu changes frequently, with entrées ranging from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5; herbsaint.com JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican. Lobster tacos, duck enchiladas, churro waffles: Celebrity chef Aarón Sánchez’s Poydras Street hot spot puts contemporary spins on standard taqueria fare. L (Su-F), D (nightly). 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4; johnnysanchezrestaurant.com JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian. At this casual Ace Hotel eatery, oysters are roasted in Calabrian chili butter, the meatballs combine beef with pancetta, the pastas are toothy, and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5; josephineestelle.com KING BRASSERIE French. Crawfish beignets with crab fat aioli, Gulf fish with smoked lardon, wild boar provençale: Louisiana ingredients inform French favorites at this Rivera-inspired brasserie. Beautiful desserts. Br, D (daily). 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.571.1818. Map 3, D6; kingbrasserieandbar.com

THE GUIDE

BREWERY SAINT X American. In addition to house-brewed beers, this brewery/bar/restaurant offers kicked-up apps (smoked shrimp dip with crab boil saltines) and an easy-to-digest selection of salads and sandwiches (oyster BLT). L (Tu-Su), D (nightly). 734 Loyola Ave., 504.788.0093. Map 3, B4; brewerysaintx.com

COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and housecured meats. L, D (daily). 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; cochonrestaurant.com

Dining

DINING

LUCY’S RETIRED SURFERS BAR & RESTAURANT Eclectic. Its name and laidback vibe hint at the Cali-Mex offerings on the menu at this fun spot. Serious salads, juicy burgers and a variety of tacos pair perfectly with Shark Attack cocktails and top-shelf margaritas. L, D (daily). 701 Tchoupitoulas St. 504.523.8995. Map 3, C6; lucyssurf.com LUFU NOLA Indian. A flavor-punched modern Indian menu that spans regions and defines boundaries. Start with the pani puri (crisp semolina shells filled with potato, peas and tamarindmint water), followed by fried masala squid and curried lamb shank. L, D (Th-Tu). 301 St. Charles Ave., 504.354.1104. Map 3, D4; lufunola.com

D IN IN G

MAYPOP Vietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta (MoPho) expands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrial-terrarium vibe. Dig into bibb lettuce salad with coconut ranch, fried oysters with bourbon aioli, or go spicy with lamb ragu pappardelle. D (nightly). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4; maypoprestaurant.com MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the famed chef ’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Greek salad and poke nachos to Korean fried chicken wings. L (F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com/meril MISS RIVER Louisiana. Chef Alon Shaya’s culinary love letter to the city includes renditions of local classics like the muffuletta and oyster patty, along with dramatic share-with-the-table whole fried chicken. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; missrivernola.com THE PEACOCK ROOM Eclectic. It’s worth stepping into the Hotel Fontenot just to

20 W HERETRAVELER

see this incredibly pretty space. While there, you might as well order a few craft cocktails and a round of sharable small plates (curried cashews with candied bacon). Better yet, settle in with a smash burger. D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.324.3073. Map 3, E5; peacockroomnola.com PÊCHE Seafood. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole fish, you can’t go wrong. L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; pecherestaurant.com POKE LOA Hawaiian. This bright spot offers build-your-own poke bowls of tuna, yellowtail, salmon and/or tofu cubes atop fresh greens and rice, veggies and array of garnishes. L, D (MF). 939 Girod St., 504.571.5174. Map 3, B4; L, D (daily). 3341 Magazine St., 504.309.9993. Map 1, D4; eatpokeloa.com RESTAURANT AUGUST Contemporary. Fine dining at its finest. The surroundings are elegant, and the food is spectacular, combining European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. D (nightly). 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5; restaurantaugust.com RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE Steaks. Founded in 1965, this Crescent City classic, famed for its superb sizzling steaks and seafood, now has locations around the world. L, D (daily). 525 Fulton St. (inside Harrah’s Hotel), 504.587.7099. Map 3, D6; ruthschris.com SEAWORTHY Seafood. This offshoot of New York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. D (nightly). 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5; seaworthynola.com

ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY Deli. The St. James is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-the-line delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. You can dine in or order a sandwich or picnic to go. L (M-Sa). 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485. Map 3, C6; L (daily). 5004 Prytania St., 504.899.4737. Map 1, D4; stjamescheese.com TRUE FOOD KITCHEN Eclectic. Backed by powerhouses Dr. Andrew Weil and Oprah Winfrey, there’s everything to love about this “health-driven” restaurant, from the edamame guacamole to the ancient grains bowl and grass-fed burgers. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 801 St. Charles Ave., 504.558.3900. Map 3, B5; truefoodkitchen.com TSUNAMI Japanese. At this sprawling emporium the usual sushi suspects sit menu-side with funky items like calamari “fries.” Grab a seat at the bar and create your own roll. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 601 Poydras St., 504.608.3474. Map 3, C5; servingsushi.com WILLA JEAN Contemporary. Beautiful baked goods and fluffy biscuits will draw you in at breakfast, while the BBQ shrimp toast will bring you back for lunch. B, L (daily). 11 O’Keefe St., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4; willajean.com YO NASHI Japanese. Omakase-style dining means multiple courses of whatever stellar sashimi and sushi creations chef Mackenzie Broquet dreams up, using fresh, local ingredients and top-notch techniques. D (Th-M). 419 Carondelet St., 504.345.2155. Map 3, C4; yonashinola.com

restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich FrenchCreole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. D (M-Sa); Br (M, Th-Sa), jazz brunch (Su). 713 St Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4; antoines.com ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of its many famous dishes. D (Tu-Sa); jazz brunch (Su). 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; arnauds restaurant.com BAYONA Contemporary. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and lemon-caper sautéed sweetbreads. L (Th-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3; bayona.com BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides. Don’t miss the redfish on the half shell or the bourbon shrimp and grits. L, D (daily). 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4; bourbonhouse.com

French Quarter

BRENNAN’S Creole. The legendary establishment continues more than seven decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4; brennans neworleans.com

ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest

BROUSSARD’S Creole. Broussard’s, established in 1920, remains

NE W ORLE A NS

MARCH 2024

one of the New Orleans’ premier fine dining spots with one of the most elegant courtyards in the French Quarter. The kitchen turns out Crescent City classics, such as bronzed redfish with lump crab. D (MSa); jazz brunch (F-Su). 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4; broussards.com CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun fare. Open daily. 311 Bourbon St., 504.500.4370. Map 3, F4; 334 Royal St. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St. Map 3, F5; 622 Canal St.; Map 3, E5; cafebeignet.com

D IN IN G

CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a mustdo. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. Open daily. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; cafedumonde.com CANE & TABLE Cuban. This rum-centric restaurant provides a taste of the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu. D (W-M), Br (Sa-Su). 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5; caneandtablenola.com COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with Southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. Br, D (daily). 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4; courtoftwosisters.com CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE Louisiana. The French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring microbrews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the German sausage and baby back ribs with sugarcane glaze L, D (daily). 527 Decatur

22 W HERETRAVELER

St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, G5; crescentcitybrewhouse.com DEANIE’S Seafood. For years locals have driven to the lakefront Deanie’s for groaning boards of freshly fried seafood and grilled fish. Its in-town locations offer the same great menu in posher surroundings, with oodles of cold shrimp and top-quality lump crabmeat. L (Th-M), D (daily). 841 Iberville St., 504.581.1316. Map 3, E4; L, D (W-Su). 2200 Magazine St., 504.962.7760. Map 1, D4; deanies.com DIAN XIN Chinese. Dim sum craving? Satisfy it here. Steamed pork dumplings, crab-and-crawfish bao, salt-and-pepper squid; the menu goes on and on. L, D (Tu-Su). 1218 Decatur St., 504.266.2828. Map 3, I4; dianxinnnola.com. 620 Conti St., 504.372.3372. Map 3, F4; dianxinonconti.com DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces. Order the filet topped with shrimp or crab or go big with a sharable chateaubriand. D (M-Sa). 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4; dickiebreannans steakhouse.com DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks. A stunning steakhouse and butcher shop with superior quality dry-aged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. L (F), D (Tu-Su). 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4; dorismetropolitan.com FRENCH TOAST Breakfast. Breakfast is the get at this popular French Quarter spot. There are sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta). B, L (daily). 1035 Decatur St., 504.300.5518. Map 3,H5; toastneworleans.com

FRENCH TRUCK Coffee. French Truck established a loyal following as the city’s first micro-roaster. Fine coffees and killer cold brews dominate at its cool cafés. Open daily. 217 Chartres St., 504.605.2899. Map 3, F4; 700 Canal St., 504.290.2664. Map 3, E5; 650 Poydras St., 504. 800.8090. Map 3, D5; 1200 Magazine St., 504.298.1115. Map 3, D7; 2917 Magazine St., 504.399.9890. Map 1, D4; frenchtruckcoffee.com GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s has been a gravity center of New Orleans. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. L, D (W-Su). 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4; galatoires.com GW FINS Seafood. The local obsession with seafood is taken to global heights, with fresh fish flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. D (nightly). 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4; gwfins.com HABANA OUTPOST Latin. The Brooklyn-based, eco-conscious eatery now has a French Quarter “outpost,” which offers its signature Cuban sandwich, loaded elote and vegan-friendly tacos and bowls. L, D (Th-M). 1040 Esplanade Ave., 504.900.9500. Map 3, I3; habanaoutpost.com IRENE’S CUISINE Italian. Irene’s is all about garlic and olive oil, the importance of consistency, and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. D (Tu-Sa). 529 Bienville St., 504.529.8811. Map 3, F5; irenesnola.com JEWEL OF THE SOUTH Contemporary. This hidden gem pays homage to a 19thcentury restaurant of the same

NE W ORLE A NS

name, with retro cocktails (brandy crustas, French 75s) and an ever-changing, seasonal menu. L (Sa-Su), D (W-M). 1026 St. Louis St., 504.265.8816. Map 3, F3; jewelnola.com JUSTINE French. Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is full-on French with a slight Southern accent: onion soup gratinée and steak tartare share menu space with baked crab mac and shrimp and grits. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533. Map 3, E4; justinenola.com KILLER POBOYS Contemporary. This small joint has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chefcrafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly with lime-infused slaw. L, D (W-M). 219 Dauphine St., 504.439.7445. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St. (in the Erin Rose bar), 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4; killerpoboys.com LATITUDE 29 Eclectic. World-renowned tiki guru Jeff “Beachbum” Berry’s new-school tiki bar and restaurant recalls the spirit of Trader Vic’s. Classic tiki cocktails and original concoctions are paired with “PolynAsian” fare, such as sticky ribs. D (nightly). 321 N. Peters St., 504.609.3811. Map 3, F5; latitude29nola.com MAMOU French. A modern French bistro with Creole flavors. Celeriac remoulade with blue crab, escargot tartlet with romesco sauce, poisson a la Florentine. Finish with lemon madeleines. D (W-Su). 942 N. Rampart St., 504.381.4557. Map 3, H3; mamounola.com MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual powerlunch scene. Must-gets include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding with Irish whiskey sauce. L (W-Sa), D (W-M); Br (Su). 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4; mrbsbistro.com

MARCH 2024

NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas. L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; napoleonhouse.com PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restaurant empire, the Palace offers sweeping views of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake and andouille-crusted Gulf fish. B, L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4; palacecafe.com

D IN IN G

PALM & PINE Eclectic. This progressive restaurant explores the wider definition of the South, including Latin America. There’s curry crab beignets, chicken-fried Texas quail, or dig into closerto-home flavors of turkey neck gumbo. D (W-M); Br (Su). 308 N. Rampart St., 504.814.6200. Map 3, F3; palmandpinenola.com PELICAN CLUB Louisiana. Chef-owner Richard Hughes blends indigenous ingredients with international flavors. The whole crispy fish is excellent, as is the herb-crusted rack of lamb. Start with the lump crab and shrimp ravigote. D (W-Su). 312 Exchange Alley, 504.523.1504. Map 3, E4; pelicanclub.com RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain? Not at Ralph Brennan’s popular seafood spot. The hickorygrilled redfish topped with crab is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, double-chocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4; redfishgrill.com RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Cajun. Chef John Folse is the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely

24 W HERETRAVELER

detailed while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. D (Th-Tu). 777 Bienville St., 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4; revolutionnola.com SAINT JOHN Creole. Creole classics reenvisioned through a contemporary lens. Hot shrimp remoulade, turkey necks smothered in brown gravy, beef daube—everything old is delicious again. Br, D (W-M). 1117 Decatur St., 504.581.8120. Map 3, I5; saintjohnnola.com STANLEY Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambiance meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the French-fried frog legs and breakfast seafood platter, while Reuben sandwiches, burgers and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. B, L (Th-M). 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4; stanleyrestaurant.com SUN CHONG Asian. This sleek spot doles out Asian fusion fare—crawfish fried rice, beef bulgogi po’boys, matcha cheesecake—and cool specialty cocktails, backed by a hip-hop beat. L (M, W-Th), D (W-M); Br (F-Su). 240 Decatur St., 504.355.0022. Map 3, F5; sunchongnola.com SYLVAIN Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastropub near Jackson Square, as diners sip handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as fried chicken sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4; sylvainnola.com TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes. Finish with a tarte à la bouillie. Br, D (W-Su). 616 St Peter St.,

504.934.3463. Map 3, G4; tableaufrenchquarter.com THAIHEY NOLA Thai. Vibrant, modern Thai cuisine. Start with saltylemony fried okra, followed by the red curry frog legs and Louisiana crab fried rice. A full vegan menu is available as well. L, D (W-M). 308 Decatur St., 504.354.8646. Map 3, F5; thaiheynola.com TUJAGUE’S Creole. A historic restaurant with a new location, new look and newly reconstructed, five-course table d’hôte menu. Choose from the classic set menu or go á la carte with contemporary dishes. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 429 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, G5; tujaguesrestaurant.com

Garden District/ Lower Garden District ATCHAFALAYA Louisiana. Look for the giant cast-iron skillet outside of this upscale neighborhood eatery and dishes such as free-form blue crab raviolo and chili-rubbed pork chop. Br, D (Th-M). 901 Louisiana Ave., 504.891.9626. Map 1, D4; atchafalayarestaurant.com COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. Chef Meg Bickford carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in an elegant atmosphere. L (Th-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (SaSu). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; commanderspalace.com COQUETTE French. What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes often but is always stacked with stellar standouts. D (nightly). 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4; coquettenola.com FAT BOY PANTRY Eclectic. Fried lobster po’boys, wild boar Sloppy Jos, lamb

NE W ORLE A NS

belly-and-scrambled eggs pitas, rib eye and Cheez Wiz: You won’t find your usual sandwich suspects here. Great juices, coffees and ice cream, too. L, D (daily). 1302 Magazine St., 504.239.9514. Map 1, D4; fatboypantry.com GRIS-GRIS Louisiana. Chef Eric Cook whips up elevated New Orleans standards (catfish-and-caviar po’ boys, redfish courtbouillon) from his hopping open kitchen. The adjacent Gris-Gris to Go Go offers a great selection of graband-go items. Br, D (W-M). 1800 Magazine St., 504.272.0241. Map 1, D4; grisgrisnola.com JACK ROSE Contemporary. This bold, contemporary space in the Pontchartrain Hotel turns out playful versions of familiar foods. Think pork cheeks with polenta and Creole meunière or fried chicken Parmesan. Cool cocktails; gorgeous desserts. D (W-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D4; jackroserestaurant.com MOLLY’S RISE & SHINE Contemporary. The sandwich gurus behind Turkey and the Wolf also operate this equally funky breakfast/brunch spot. House-made pop tarts, collard greens and grits, coconut-curry tamales, roasted-carrot yogurt —expect the unexpected. B, Br (W-M). 2368 Magazine St., 504.302.1896. Map 1, D4; mollysriseandshine.com SAN LORENZO Italian. The Hotel Saint Vincent’s elegant eatery serves up homemade pasta tumbled in light sauces, platters of chilled raw seafood and wood-fired steaks. Start with the zucchini fritti. L (M-F), D (nighty); Br (Sa-Su). 1507 Magazine St., 504.350.2450. Map 1, D4; saintvincentnola.com STEIN’S MARKET & DELI Deli. A real-deal Jewish deli in New Orleans? Philadelphia native Dan Stein brings a taste of the Northeast to the Deep South with authentic Ruebens on rye, matzo ball soup and crusty Davidovich bagels. L (Tu-Su). 2207 Magazine

MARCH 2024

Dining

St., 504.527.0771. Map 1, D3; steinsdeli.com TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, collard green melts. Don’t pass on the wedge salad. L (W-M). 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4; turkeyandthewolf.com

Marigny/Bywater ALMA Honduran. Chef Melissa Araujo’s menu reflects her Honduran heritage: savory orroz con pollo, baked plantains with refried pintos and housemade crema, Central American sweetbreads to go with Colombian coffee. Br (daily). 800 Louisa St., 504.381.5877. Map 1, E3; eatalmanola.com

BYWATER AMERICAN BISTRO American. The menu at this casual neighborhood eatery focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. Blackened octopus with sweet potatococonut purée, jerk chicken with semolina dumplings; try the spicy seafood stew. D (W-Su). 2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827. Map 1, E3; bywateramericanbistro.com

ł < < ≠ a f ∑ ¹ ¹ tou ∑

Come explore the one-of-a-kind exhibits, interesting interactive experiences and delicious traditions that make Sazerac House the keeper of New Orleans cocktail culture. 1 0 1 m a † a ¬ i n ¹ π t. at ½ a n a l

- n¹w o∑l¹anπ - sa¬e∑a½houπ¹.½om

THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. Known for its swimming pool, this Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crab beignets, truffle mac’ n’ cheese) or fullon entrees such as grilled filet mignon. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; thecountryclubneworleans.com ELIZABETH’S American. “Real food done real good” is the motto at this

THE GUIDE

BACCHANAL Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L (F-M), D (nightly). 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3; bacchanalwine.com

friendly neighborhood joint, which draws loyal locals as well as national foodies. Two words to remember: praline bacon. B, L (Th-M). 601 Gallier St., 504.944.9272. Map 1, E3; elizabethsrestaurantnola.com

marketplace features 24 steel columns and a variety of food vendors and indoor/outdoor seating. B, L, D (daily). 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.267.0388; strochmarket.com

THE ELYSIAN BAR Contemporary. Tucked inside the Peter and Paul Hotel, this sunny yellow dining room feels all warm and cozy, like a relative’s kitchen. The menu follows suit, with homey fare such as French-rolled omelets. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 2317 Burgundy St., 504.356.6769. Map 1, E3; theelysianbar.com

Mid-City

D IN IN G

N7 French. This quiet, hiddenaway bistro is named for France’s Route Nationale 7. Steamed mussels, steak au poivre, duck confit, a lovely wine list and fine service equate to total charm. Grab a seat in the garden. D (M-Sa); Br (F-Su). 1117 Montegut St. Map 1, E3; n7nola.com PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5; paladar511.com PIZZA DELICIOUS Italian. This pop-up pizzeria grew so popular that it now has its own brick-and-mortar space. New York-style pies with an everchanging array of market-fresh toppings are offered whole or by the slice. L, D (Tu-Su). 617 Piety St., 504.676.8482. Map 1, D3; pizzadelicious.com SAINT-GERMAIN French. Named “Best New Chefs of 2021” by Food & Wine, Blake Aguillard and Trey Smith’s casual hot spot offers a reservation-only, 10-course tasting menu that is constantly changing. D (Th-Su). 3054 St. Claude Ave., 504.218.8729. Map 1, D3; saintgermainnola.com ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this beautifully restored

26 W HERETRAVELER

ADDIS NOLA African. Eating with your hands is encouraged here. Spongy injera flatbread is perfect for pinching bits of doro wat (chicken), spicy stewed lentils and mitmita-dusted kitfo (beef). L (M, W-F), D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 2514 Bayou Rd., 504.218.5321. Map 1, E2; addisnola.com ANGELO BROCATO’S Bakery. This century-old ice cream parlor and confectionery offers a nostalgic slice of Old World Sicily, with glasstopped tables, slow-turning ceiling fans and some of the best Italian pastries and ice creams this side of Palermo. Open Tu-Su. 214 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.486.1465. Map 1, D2; angelobrocatoicecream.com BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spareribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. If the barbecued pork egg rolls make a menu appearance, get them. L, D (daily). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3; blueoakbbq.com DOOKY CHASE’S Creole. One of the oldest Black-owned restaurants in the nation. The late “Queen of Creole Cuisine,” Leah Chase’s legend lives on in classic dishes such as shrimp with lima beans and gumbo z’herbes. L (Tu-F), D (F-Sa). 2301 Orleans Ave., 504.821.0600. Map 1, D3; dookychaserestaurants.com FLOUR MOON BAGELS Bakery. Hand-shaped, boiled and baked New York-style bagels are the draw here. You’ll also find a broad menu of bagel sandwiches and open-faced tartines. Named among the best in the U.S. by Bon Appétit. B, L (Th-Tu). 457 N. Dergenois

St., 504.354.1617. Map 1, D3; flourmoonbagels.com LIL’ DIZZY’S CAFÉ Creole. The Baquet family is known for their award-winning trout Baquet, gumbo, fried chicken, baked macaroni and daily specials. L (M-Sa). 1500 Esplanade Ave., 504.766.8687. Map 3, I1; lildizzyscafe.net MOPHO Vietnamese. Chef Mike Gulotta rocks modern Vietnamese-inspired dishes at his naughty-named restaurant near the Canal streetcar line. The sweet-and-spicy chicken wings and pork belly bowl are must-haves. L, D (daily). 514 City Park Ave., 504.482.6845. Map 1, D2; mophonola.com PARKWAY BAKERY Louisiana. The menu here is long but simple: po’boys and more po’boys. Your choices for stuffings: roast beef, oyster, shrimp and, of course, alligator sausage—and that’s just the top of the list. L (W-Su). 538 Hagan Ave., 504.482.3047. Map 1, D2; parkwaypoorboys.com RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. L (W-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2; ralphsonthepark.com TOUPS’ MEATERY Cajun. Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with sweet pea risotto. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3; toupsmeatery.com ZASU Seafood. James Beard Awardwinning chef Sue Zemanick goes coastal at her intimate Mid-City space: grilled baby octopus, hamachi crudo,

NE W ORLE A NS

fried sea scallops with celery root-apple remoulade. D (M, W-Sa). 127 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.267.3233. Map 1, D2; zasunola.com

UPTOWN AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, lasagna with short rib ragu and grilled Gulf fish piccata. D (Tu-Sa). 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4; restaurantavo.com BRIGTSEN’S Creole. A protegé of the late great Paul Prudhomme, chef Frank Brigtsen’s food is rooted in Louisiana tradition but moves into a sphere of its own with his genius for combining tastes and ingredients. D (TuSa). 723 Dante St., 504.861.7610. Map 1, C3; brigtsens.com CASAMENTO’S Seafood. Open since 1919, this Uptown landmark is oyster heaven for those with a taste for plump Gulf bivalves. Get them fried for sandwiches built on thick slices of toast, floating in buttery stew or simply raw and cold on the half shell. L (ThSa), D (Th-Su). 4330 Magazine St., 504.895.9761. Map 1, D4; casamentosrestaurant.com THE CHLOE Louisiana. At this charming boutique property, chef Todd Pulsinelli turns out stellar dishes that are at once elegant and playful. Evidence the porkand-shrimp étouffée dumplings and Royal Red Shrimp Roll. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 4125 St. Charles Ave., 504.541.5500. Map 1, D4; thechloenola.com COSTERA Spanish. This casual spot’s Spanish-inspired menu encourages plate-sharing with a wide range of tapas, along with larger entrees such as seafood paella. D (W-Su). 4938 Prytania St., 504.302.2332. Map 1, D4; costerarestaurant.com

MARCH 2024

Back

Front

Show your love for New Orleans Sterling silver engraved charm

GEORGE RODRIGUE STUDIO STARS HANG OUT TOGETHER

Silkscreen designed by George Rodrigue in 1996 and printed in 2024 Estate Stamped Edition of 150, 26 x 26 inches 730 Royal Street (behind St. Louis Cathedral) New Orleans, LA | 504-581-4244 Mon - Sat: 11:00am - 5:00pm Sun: 12:00pm - 5:00pm

www.GeorgeRodrigue.com

FRANCOLINI’S Deli. Proof that “not everything from Jersey sucks,” this homage to Northeastern Italian delis offers a wide variety of subs and sandwiches comprised of quality meats and cheeses. The Italian is piled with prosciutto, mortadella, hot capicola, genoa salami and provolone. L (ThTu). 3987 Tchoupitoulas St. Map 1, D4; francolinis.com HUNGRY EYES Eclectic. Step back to 1980s at this fun dining spot where nostalgic cocktails (apple martinis, Cosmopolitans) inform a global “drinking food” menu that mixes Asian (charred okra with lemongrass) with Mediterranean (smoky eggplant dip) and beyond. D (W-M). 4206 Magazine St., 504.766.0054. Map 1, D4; hungryeyesnola.com LA BOULANGERIE Bakery. This French bakery doles out savory and sweet artisanal goods to regulars who are loyal verging on addicted. Almond or ham-and-cheese croissants make light snacks, while loaves baked with blue cheese or olives are good enough to devour on their own. B, L (daily). 4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777. Map 1, D4; laboulangerienola.com LA PETITE GROCERY French. An intimate bistro with gas lighting and pressedtin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4; lapetitegrocery.com LILETTE French. Chef John Harris’ bistro looks and feels French but makes a perfect Italian wedding soup as well.

THE GUIDE

610 Chartres Street New Orleans, LA 70130 504.522.9222

Dining

DAKAR NOLA African. Senegal-born chef Serigne Mbaye’s tasting menu restaurant combines the flavors of Africa and Louisiana, served in seven courses at a single 7 pm seating. D (W-Sa). 3814 Magazine St., 504.493-9396. Map 1, D4; dakarnola.com

Traditional appetizers are accented with imaginative sauces, such as the escargots with Calvados cream. L (TuSa), D (M-Sa). 3637 Magazine St., 504.895.1636. Map 1, D4; liletterestaurant.com MISTER MAO Eclectic. The food here is as fun as the quirky interior. The “inauthentic” globally inspired menu swings from ginger salad and escargot Wellington to Kashmiri chile fried chicken and octopus with mango and cerveza jelly. D (Th-Tu); Br (Sa-Su). 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.345.2056. Map 1, D4; mistermaonola.com

D IN IN G /SH O P P IN G

OSTERIA LUPO Italian. A nod to Northern Italy, with sharable antipasti (black truffle arancini), handmade pastas (radiatori with Louisiana blue crab) and woodfired meat and seafood entrees. L (F-Su), D (nightly). 4609 Magazine St., 504.273.1268. Map 1, D4; osterialupo.com PASCAL’S MANALE Italian. A New Orleans landmark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a mustget) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent barbecued shrimp. L, D (Tu-Sa). 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4; pascalsmanalerestaurant.com PATOIS Louisiana. Aaron Burgau has earned all the praise heaped on him as a chef “to watch.” Patois is one of the city’s hottest venues, combining Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a low-key neighborhood bar scene. D (W-Sa); Br (Su). 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441. Map 1, D4; patoisnola.com PIGEON & WHALE Seafood. Dip into Northeastern waters on the Gulf: Maine lobster rolls, steamed Atlantic clams, chargrilled PEI mussels, East Coast oysters on the half shell. Gin lovers will fall for the large negroni selection. D (nightly). 4525 Freret St.,

28 W HERETRAVELER

504.249.5487. Map 1, D3; pigeonandwhalenola.com

St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5; arthurrogergallery.com

SABA Mediterranean. A taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as duck breast with pomegranate molasses, cocoa and citrus. L (F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine St., 504.324.7770. Map 1, D4; eatwithsaba.com

BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. Contemporary designs are featured at 304 Royal, while 316 Royal is home to a lighting museum where you’ll see lamps being made by hand. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 304 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; 316-318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; bevolo.com

SAFFRON NOLA Indian. Elevated Indian fare. Top picks include the crabmeat pudha, rum-soaked lamb chops and grilled shrimp curry. D (Tu-Sa). 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4; saffronnola.com SHAYA Mediterranean.Contemporary Mediterranean with Southern flair. Fresh-made pita accompanies creamy baba ganoush, smokey labneh and an outstanding hummus selection. L, D (daily). 4609 Magazine St., 504.273.1268. Map 1, D4; shaya restaurant.com

SHOPPING Art Galleries & Antiques ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quarter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird, Woodrow Nash, Aaron Reichert and Patterson & Barnes. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4; angelakinggallery.com ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her French Quarter gallery. 719 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, G4; antieaugallery.com ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’ leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. 432 Julia

CALLAN CONTEMPORARY Works by modern-day American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6; callancontemporary.com CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the famed bodypainter enhances with eye-tricking imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; craigtracy.com DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ CO-OP This artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5; dutchalleyartistsco-op.com FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY Award-winning photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. 7910 Royal St., 504.265.8564. Map 3, H4; frankrelle.com FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this shop relocated to New Orleans in

NE W ORLE A NS

1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4; gofrenchantiques.com KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s established its reputation with rare 18th- and 19th-century French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4; keilsantiques.com LEROY’S PLACE A whimsical, weird enclave full of handmade creatures dreamed up by illustrator Serene Bacigalupi. Some are hiding in old paintings; others are displayed as 3D sculpture. 922 Royal St., 504.459.2433; leroysplace.com M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 622 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4; rauantiques.com MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4; michalopoulos.com (MOSTLY) ROCK ’N’ ROLL GALLERY The Clash, David Bowie, the Eurythmics, Freddie Mercury, U2: Steve Rapport’s photo archive reads like a 1980s rock royalty roll call. You’ll also find images of local musicians. 627 St. Peter St. Map 3, G4; mostlyrocknroll.com RODRIGUE STUDIO Devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular Blue

MARCH 2024

Shopping

Dog series are available. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; georgerodrigue.com TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; terranceosborne.com VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Retro sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4; vintage329.com

Internationally Inspired, Chef Crafted, New Orleans Style Sandwiches

Books & Music BALDWIN & CO. In addition to books geared to a wide range of interests, this popular shop also houses a coffee bar and podcast studio. 1003 Elysian Fields Ave., 504.354.1741. Map 3, I3; baldwinandcobooks.com CRESCENT CITY BOOKS Louisiana’s sole member of the Antiquarian Bookseller’s Association. In addition to vintage books, the shop offers maps, prints and a friendly, knowledgeable staff. 240 Chartres St., 504.524.4997. Map 3, E3; crescentcitybooks.com

Killer Poboys @ Erin Rose Bar 811 Conti St

Killer Poboys 219 Dauphine St 504.462.2731

EUCLID RECORDS Two well-organized floors of new and used LPs share space with CDs, vintage concert posters and comics. It’s easy to spend an hour (or two) rummaging the racks

THE GUIDE

KILLER POBOYS

WINDSOR FINE ART This fine art gallery features original works from the old masters and masters of the Belle Époque to the modern masters and the biggest names in post-war contemporary art. Internationally renowned contemporary artists and sculpture are also featured. 221 Royal St., 504. 586.0202. Map 3, F4; windsorfineart.com

here. 3301 Chartres St., 504.504.947.4348. Map 1, E3; euclidrecordsneworleans.com FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS For six months in 1925, author William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldier’s Pay.” First additions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. 624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940. Map 3, G4; faulknerhousebooks.com LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; louisianamusicfactory.com

SH O P P IN G

PEACHES RECORDS For nearly five decades, this local chain has been promoting area musicians with a large selection of New Orleans music. 4318 Magazine St., 504.282.3322. Map 1, D4; peachesrecordsandtapes.com

Clothing, Hats & Shoes BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his birth state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4; billyreid.com CENTURY GIRL A bright, glittery women’s clothing and accessories emporium that steps back in time with gorgeous fashions and beautiful designer costume jewelry. 2023 Magazine St., 504.875.3105. Map 1, D4; centurygirlvintage.com DIRTY COAST Catering to locals and inthe-know visitors, this shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. 630 Chartres St., 504.354.1955. Map 3, G4; 1320 Magazine St., 504.766.0752. Map 1, E4; 5415

30 W HERETRAVELER

Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4; dirtycoast.com H&M The Swedish-based retail chain is known around the globe for its fab fashions and hard-to-resist prices. Women’s, men’s and children’s clothing is featured. 418 N. Peters St., 855.466.7467. Map 3, F5; hm.com JON FLUEVOG “Unique soles for unique souls.” This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4; fluevog.com MEYER THE HATTER The oldest hat store in the South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of headwear in the country. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4; meyerthehatter.com SHOE BE DO Get a step ahead with cuttingedge women’s footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; shoebedousa.com TASC Originating in New Orleans, this popular line of active wear is now found nationwide. The secret to its success is its ecoconscious fabric that blends bamboo with organic cotton and merino wool, resulting in soft, durable performance apparel. 3913 Magazine St., 504.304.5030. Map 1, D4; tascperformance.com TRASHY DIVA Original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories. 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; trashydiva.com

Gifts & Collectibles BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and gift items. 610 Chartres St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4; shopbungalows.com DARK MATTER Jars of preserved scorpions. Taxidermy mice, mummified cats and possum skulls. Eerie art and moody photography. More than 30 regional oddity artisans are represented in this macabre space. 822 Chartres St. Map 3, H5 DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s elegant Victorian reproduction tile can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4; derbypottery.com FLEURTY GIRL These popular boutiques are packed with Crescent City collectibles, NOLA-centric T-shirts and great gift items. 617 Chartres St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; fleurtygirl.net HOME MALONE A bright, welcoming space filled with Crescent City collectibles (NOLA-themed dish towels, Mardi Gras float flowers), Southern-centric home decor and fun gift items. 4610 Magazine St., 504.766.6148. Map 1, D4; 629 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.324.8352. Map 1, D2; homemalonenola.com IDEA FACTORY Unique woodworking from around the U.S. This eclectic shop is geared to both young and old, offering toys and kitchen accessories as well as sculpture and custommade signs. 924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4; ideafactoryneworleans.com

NE W ORLE A NS

ISLAND OF SALVATION BOTANICA A place of authentic Haitian culture and practice, crammed with art, amulets, sacred stones and candles. A great shop for those unfamiliar with voodoo as well as serious practitioners. 2372 St. Claude Ave., 504.948.9961. Map 1, E3; islandofsalvationbotanica.com NOLA BOARDS Add a dash of Crescent City flavor to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. 4228 Magazine St., 504.256.0030. Map 1, D4; nolaboards.com NOLA KIDS This children’s boutique offers select apparel for boys and girls, from infant to youth, along with toys, books and other gift items. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4; shopnolakids.com. PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French Quarter, with its rich literary heritage, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills and other desk accessories are featured. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4; papierplume.com SOUTHERN CANDYMAKERS You can catch a sugar buzz just walking through the door of this French Quarter sweets shop, known for its pralines, toffees and tortues (turtles). 334 Decatur St., 504.523.5544. Map 3, F5; 1010 Decatur St., 504.525.6170. Map 3, H5; southerncandymakers.com

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and top of theline grooming products. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves. 2026 Magazine St.,

MARCH 2024

FIFI MAHONY’S In search of the perfect pink wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby-red lipstick? It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4; fifisbywater.square.site HOVÉ A European-style pafumeur in business for 80-plus years. Among the perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents, like Vertivert. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5; hove parfumeur.com

WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10 private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. 130 Roosevelt Way., 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; therooseveltneworleans.com WOODHOUSE DAY SPA The Mid-City branch of this nationwide franchise offers a variety of relaxing body treatments, along with rejuvenating facials and more. 4030 Canal St., 504.482.6652. Map 1, D3; woodhousespas.com

Jewelry ART & EYES The eyes have it at this chic eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; artandeyesneworleansla.com

The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, Macy’s, Michael Kors and Sephora. 33301 Veterans Blvd., 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2; lakesideshopping.com

MIGNON FAGET Designer Faget has created extraordinary jewelry for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; mignonfaget.com

Attractions & Landmarks

PORTER LYONS Jewelry designer Ashley Lyons is a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations. 623 Royal St., 504.518.4945. Map 3, G4; porterlyons.com WELLINGTON & CO. This small space is largely devoted to antique and estate pieces, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco designs. Engagement and bridal jewelry are also featured, along with new designer lines. 505 Royal St., 504. 525.4855. Map 3, F4; wcjewelry.com

Malls/Major Retailers CANAL PLACE Some of world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, Saks Fifth Avenue, Tory Burch, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local shops. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5; canalplacestyle.com RIVERWALK OUTLETS Located along the river at the foot of Poydras Street, the nation’s first urban outlet center offers more than 70 shops, including Nordstrom Rack and Coach. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7; riverwalkneworleans.com LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping stop of New Orleanians, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport.

ATTRACTIONS

ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre greenspace is home to Congo Square, where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM & INSECTARIUM This award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6; audubonnatureinstitute.org AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the top-rated zoos in the nation. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org CEASARS SUPERDOME Home to the New Orleans Saints, the Superdome ranks as the largest covered arena in the world. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2; caesarssuperdome.com CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 Palm Dr., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2; neworleanscitypark.com

CRESCENT PARK Looking for unique views of the city? Stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront promenade, which stretches from the French Quarter to the Bywater neighborhood. Map 3, J6; crescent parknola.org FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market. Along with homegrown specialties, it also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1008 N. Peters St., 504.636.6400. Map 3, H5; frenchmarket.org HARRAH’S CASINO The city’s largest casino is located at the foot of Canal Street. The mammoth pleasure palace features 115,000 square feet of gaming space. 228 Poydras St., 800.427.7247. Map 3, E6; caesars.com/harrahs-new-orleans JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the French Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5 MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. Daily tours, 9 am-5:30 pm. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8; mardigrasworld.com NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING Creole/Cajun cooking demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Hands-on and private sessions are also available; reservations required. 524 St. Louis St., 504.525.2665. Map 3, F5; nosoc.com OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is the oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M, Th-Sa, 10 and 11 am and 1 pm. 1112 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4; stlouis cathedral.org

THE GUIDE

LUSH Its organic products and “fresh market” décor have made the Lush chain an international success. Its New Orleans locations live up to the standard with hard-to-resist bath bombs, soaps and body bars. 532 Royal St., 504.529.5704. Map 3, G4; 3129 Magazine St., 504.899.4089. Map 1, D4; lushusa.com

KREWE This locally designed eyewear line, with styles named for New Orleans streets, has garnered a national following. 619 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, G4; 1818 Magazine St., 504.342.2462. Map 1, D4; krewe.com

Shopping/Attractions

504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; aidangillformen.com

PONTALBA BUILDINGS Erected in 1851, the stately red-brick townhouses flaking Jackson Square rank as the first apartment complex in the United States. Inspired by the Palais-Royal and the Place des Vosges in Paris, the twin buildings feature apartments upstairs, retail spaces below and ornate cast-iron galleries. Map 3, G5 PRYTANIA THEATRES AT CANAL PLACE This state-of-the-art cinema offers nine screens, along with a full bar and private screenings. 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.290.2658. Map 3, E5; prytaniacanalplace.com

AT T R A C T IO N S

SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Superdome, the Center is home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, D8; smoothiekingcenter.com ST. BERNARD PARISH Founded by Canary Islanders in 1778, today St. Bernard Parish is a thriving, familyoriented community and popular fishing and birding destination. Attractions include Chalmette Battlefield, the Los Isleños Museum & Village and St. Bernard State Park. visitstbernard.com ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Mass said daily. Jackson Square, 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4; stlouiscathedral.org STUDIO BE Brandan Odums’ giant graffitistyle murals explore Black life through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X, Muhammad Ali and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Su. 2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231. Map 1, E3; studiobenola.com VUE ORLEANS Along with the highest viewpoint in the city, this one-of-akind, 360º observatory provides a crash course in local history

32 W HERETRAVELER

and culture through a variety of immersive exhibits and interactive experiences. Open daily, 10 am-6 pm. 2 Canal St., 504.285.3600. Map 3, E6; vueorleans.com WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront promenade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium to Jackson Square, affords great views of the Mississippi. Map 3, F6; audubonnatureinstitue.org

Historic Homes BK HISTORIC HOUSE AND GARDENS This beautifully restored 1826 villa is the former residence of both Confederate General P.G.T. Beauregard and novelist Francis Parkinson Keyes. Tours offered M-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. 1113 Chartres St., 504.523.7257. Map 3, H4; bkhouse.org DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 30-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter, and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily: M-Th, 9:30 am-3 pm; F-Su, 9:30 am-4 pm. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 985.764.9315; destrehanplantation.org

architecture and lush grounds. A museum charting the history of River Road is also featured. Daily tours, 9:30 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La, 225.473.9380; houmashouse.com LONGUE VUE HOUSE & GARDENS Designated a National Historic Landmark, this 1939 Classical Revival home is modeled after an English country estate, with eight acres of gardens to explore. Guided tours available M-Sa, 9:30 am-5 pm. 7 Bamboo Rd., 504.488.5488. Map 1, D2; longuevue.com OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picturesque Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of Great River Road” offers guided tours daily, 9 am-4:30 pm. 3645 Hwy. 18 Vacherie, La., 888.279.9802; oakalleyplantation.org PITOT HOUSE MUSEUM Located along scenic Bayou St. John, this circa-1799 home, built for New Orleans’ first mayor, is an excellent example of a Creole plantation house. Open W-F, 10 am-3 pm. 1440 Moss St., 504.482.0312. Map 1, D2; pitothouse.org

GALLIER HOUSE The home of renowned New Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s, and was rated one of the country’s top museums by The New York Times. Tours offered W-M. 1132 Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4; hgghh.org

WHITNEY PLANTATION Opened to the public for the first time in its 265-year history, this plantation explores slavery through moving first-person accounts. Tours are offered W-M, 9:30 am-3 pm. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300; whitneyplantation.org

HERMANN-GRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/museum offers a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen. Tours W-M. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750. Map 3, F4; hgghh.org

Museums

HOUMAS HOUSE HISTORIC ESTATE AND GARDENS Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival

BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM This Tremé space seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs, in addition to archival items and photos from second-line parades. Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. 1531 St. Philip St., 504.657.6700. Map 3, I2; backstreetmuseum.org

NE W ORLE A NS

CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier modern art exhibit space features rotation exhibits and also plays host to performances. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6; cacno.org GERMAINE CAZENAVE WELLS MARDI GRAS MUSEUM Carnival pageantry, 1937-1968: lavish gowns, costumes and memorabilia of the late Wells, queen of 26 Mardi Gras balls. Located above Arnaud’s restaurant. Free; open during regular restaurant hours. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; arnauds.com THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions, along with permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; hnoc.org LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS The Louisiana State Museum operates a number of French Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbytère; the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. Open Tu-Su, 9 am-4 pm. 504.568.6968. louisianastatemuseum.org MUSEUM OF THE SOUTHERN JEWISH EXPERIENCE Three galleries of interactive exhibits examine Jewish life in the Bible Belt, while exploring the broader concept of the great American tapestry. Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. 818 Howard Ave., 504.384.2480. Map 3, B5; msje.org NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits, in-

MARCH 2024

look at four centuries of the American South. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; ogdenmuseum.org

NEW ORLEANS AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM This repository of African American art, culture and history is located in the Faubourg Tremé, America’s oldest Black neighborhood. Rotating exhibits are featured; neighborhood tours are also offered. Open ThSu, 11 am-4 pm. 1417-1418 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.218.8254. Map 3, I2; noaam.org

PRESERVATION RESOURCE CENTER The PRC is an essential stop for lovers of local architecture and contains a wealth of information on the city’s buildings and neighborhoods. Open M-F, 9 am-5 pm. 923 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.581.7032. Map 3, B7; prcno.org

NEW ORLEANS HISTORIC VOODOO MUSEUM Explore the misunderstood religion through artifacts and exhibits. Readings and cemetery tours are also available. Open daily, 10 am-6 pm. 724 Dumaine St., 504.680.0128. Map 3, H4; voodoomuseum.com

NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free sculpture garden. Open Tu, Th-Su (10 am-5 pm), W (noon-7 pm); sculpture garden open daily (10 am-5 pm). 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; noma.org NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM This former apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs and phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. 514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4; pharmacymuseum.org OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new

SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFab features exhibits, along with cooking classes. Open Th-M, 11 am-5 pm. 91504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3; southernfood.org

CITY SIGHTSEEING This informative doubledecker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again— at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; citysightseeing neworleans.com CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs form Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; creolequeen.com DRINK + LEARN Cocktail historian Elizabeth Pierce leads these fun and informative two-hour tippling tours through the French Quarter. 504.578.8280. drinkandlearn.com

Cruises & Tours

FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS These guided walking tours cover everything from ghost and vampire lore to cemeteries and music. Reservations required. 718 N. Rampart St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4; frenchquarterphantoms.com

ALGIERS/CANAL STREET FERRY A ferry has been crossing the Mississippi River from the French Quarter/CBD to Algiers Point since 1827. Daily, starting at 6 am; pedestrians only. 1 Canal St. Map 3, E7; norta.com

FRIENDS OF THE CABILDO Insightful two-hour walking tours of the French Quarter are offered daily at 10:30 am and 1:30 pm. Departs from the 1850 House museum store. 523 St. Ann St., 504.523.3939. Map 3, G5; friendsofthecabildo.org

AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Dive into Louisiana swamplands on guided, high-speed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. 504.689.2005. airboat adventures.com

GATORS AND GHOSTS This tour group offers a variety of excursions, from swamp explorations to city, plantation and haunted outings. Hotel pickups and drop-offs are available. 728 St. Louis St., 888.481.8188. Map 3, F4; gatorsandghosts.com

ENTERTAINMENT

CEMETERY TOURS NOLA The only company authorized to conduct tours of St. Louis Cemetery No. 1. Walking tours take place daily (9 am-3:45 pm), departing from Basin Street Station every 15 minutes. 501

GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS Gray Line provides a wide array of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, River Cruises—

and all possible combinations. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; graylineneworleans.com HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. hauntedhistorytours.com STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Harbor jazz cruises M-Sa at 11 am and 2 pm; Su jazz brunch at 11 am. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Departs from Toulouse Street and the Mississippi River. 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; steamboatnatchez.com

NIGHTLIFE Cocktails ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.54533. Map 3, F4; arnauds.com BAR MARILOU With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisianaccented space is perfect for sipping an aperitif while nibbling on sophisticated bar bites. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711. Map 3, C5; barmarilou.com BOURBON PUB & PARADE The city’s largest gay bar and nightclub. Parade, the upstairs dance club, hosts drag shows. 5801 Bourbon St., 504.529.2107. Map 3, H4; bourbonpub.com CAROUSEL BAR Located in the Hotel Monteleone, this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers) and was a favorite of such literary lights as Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote. 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4; hotelmonteleone.com

THE GUIDE

NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MUSEUM The world’s largest and most comprehensive collection of jazz-related artifacts offers rotating exhibits and live performances. Open Tu-Su, 9 am-4pm. 400 Esplanade Ave (in the Old U.S. Mint), 504.568.6993. Map 3, I5; nolajazzmuseum.org

SAZERAC HOUSE Explore the evolution of the city’s cocktail culture through a variety of exhibits, while sipping samples along the way. Free. Open daily, 11 am-6 pm. 101 Magazine St., 504.910.0100. Map 3, E5; sazerachouse.com

Basin St., 504.777.3027. Map 1, F3; cemeterytours neworleans.com

Attractions/Entertainment/Nightlife

cluding the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries.” Open daily, 9 am-5 pm. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6; nationalww2museum.org

SPECI A L A DV ERT ISI NG SEC T ION

SITY PL

DAUPHINE HermannGrima House

BOURBON

ON COM M

4 Toulouse

6 Canal MP CA

Vieux Carré Police Station

EXCHANGE ALLEY

VIER GRA

5 Bienville

Z GA MA

Jackson Brewery

4 Insecterium

S ETER

R EE T ST

LIA

329 royal st, new orleans 504.525.2262 www.vintage329.com

TC H

L AS

ETE

S. P

Harrah’s Casino

Steamboat

, ue iq n U

Canal Place Shopping

Aquarium of the Americas & Entergy Imax Algiers Theatre 6 Riverwalk Ferry Creole Queen

ShoeBeDoUSA.com

CHARTRES

DECATUR

N. P

U ITO UP

P A

ROYAL

DORSIERE

IN E

S RA

YD PO

H TC NA

Ernest N. Morial Convention Center

ST. CHARLES

3 Dumaine

barware

Historic N.O. Collection

WILKINSON ROW

DID

IO N

PER

VINTAGE

CANAL

CARONDELET

2 Ursulines

600

IBERVILLE

NNE

1 Esplanade

500

BURGUNDY

100 BARO

RIVERFRONT STREETCAR STOPS

N. RAMP ART

TOULOUSE

UNIVER

EEF

O'K

400

ST. LOUI S

OLA LOY

300 CONTI

200

BIENVILLE

S. RAMP ART Louisiana Superdome

ST. PETER

! es ho s g in ak t th ea br , ld bo

4/6/18 3/6/18 4/4/18 12:37:51 7:50:41 1:06 PM PM PM

324 324 Chartres Chartres St. St. (504)523-7463 (504)523-7463

R TC A

ON RFR Steamboat RIVE Gray Line Tour Natchez Departures Woldenberg Riverfront Park

Hi Al Po

SPECI A L A DV ERT ISI NG SEC T ION

FRENCH QUARTER

DAUPHINE

KERLEREC

TH O

DAUPHINE

ST .A N

BURGUNDY

BOURBON

RT PA

BOURBON

Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop

800

PA U

900

BURGUNDY

1200

ESPLANADE

1100

BARRACKS

RAMPART

GOV. NICHOLLS

1000

URSULINES

900

ST. PHILI P

800

DUMAINE

ST. ANN

700

ORLEANS

TOULOUSE

600

1000

500

ST. PETER

Mahalia Jackson Theater of the Performing Arts Armstrong Park

N. RAMP ART

Gov.

M H C EN

S t

Nic holl s St.

N.O. Jazz Museum/ Old U.S. Mint

Flea

Mar

ket

EL FI AN SI EL Y

MADISON

D arke

ESPLANADE

ch M

Pedestrian Mall

WILKINSON ROW

L YA

Mississippi River

Fren

American Aquatic Garden

Steamboat ine Tour Natchez ures

Park

DECATUR

VINTAGE CHANEL®

MOONW ALK

E TR AR

EETC

Ursuline Convent

S TR

Washington Square Park

AAT EC D

NT FRO

BeauregardKeyes House CHARTRES

500

Jackson Brewery

600

5 Jackson Square

ROYAL Gallier House

Madame John's Legacy

CHARTRES

PIRATE’S PERE ALLEY ANTOINE ALLEY

ROYAL

700

storic O. llection

Wh arf

329 Royal St, New Orleans 504.525.2262 WWW.VINTAGE329.COM

Historic Algiers Point

SCAN FOR RESERVATIONS

125 BOURBON STREET DINE IN. TAKE OUT. DELIVERY.

CHANDELIER BAR The Four Seasons’ aptly named lobby lounge is anchored by a dramatic 15,000-crystal centerpiece and award-winning bartender Hadi Ktiri. 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; fourseasons.com/neworleans THE COLUMNS This historic property oozes elegance. Grab a seat at the moody mahogany bar or settle into a courtyard table and listen to the streetcar rumble by, while sipping stellar cocktails and noshing on standout small plates. 3811 St. Charles Ave., 504.899.9308. Map 1, D4; thecolumns.com DOUBLE DEALER Tucked beneath the Orpheum Theater, this modern-day speakeasy woos with curtained booths, secret nooks and a wide-ranging lineup of entertainment. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.300.0212. Map 3, E3; doubledealernola.com

N IG H T L IF E

EFFERVESCENCE This bubbly spot features 90plus bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and select small plates. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3; nolabubbles.com FIVES This European-inspired drinking salon in Jackson Square’s historic Pontalba Buildings serves up both classic and original quaffs, a variety of oysters, caviar and other raw bar options. 29 St. Ann St. Map 3, H5; fives.bar HERMES BAR This hedonistic hideaway inside Antoine’s restaurant offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great ambiance and knowledgeable bartenders. 713 St Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4; antoines.com HOT TIN Named after a Tennessee Williams play (the playwright once stayed here), this cozy space on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel offers creative cocktails, wine by the glass and amazing views. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D3; hottinbar.com

36 W HERETRAVELER

LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5; lafittesblacksmithshop.com

Live Entertainment APPLE BARREL BAR This raffish joint is tiny but has a warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the room. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J4

PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; patobriens.com

BAYOU BAR AIn addition to lunch, dinner and well-crafted cocktails, this cozy space in the Pontchartrain Hotel serves up live jazz most evenings. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1456. Map 1, D3; bayoubarneworleans.com

THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and most popular along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4; penthouseclub neworleans.com

BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts perform regularly, along with national musicians. 532 Frenchmen St. Map, J5; bluenilelive.com

PEYCHAUD’S Classic cocktails—Sazeracs, French 75s, Roffignacs—in a classic French Quarter setting, where the inventor of Peychaud’s bitters once lived. 727 Toulouse St. Map 3, G4; thecelestinenola.com R BAR This unpretentious watering hole is a favorite among locals and visitors who happen by during the free Friday seafood boils. Drop in on Mondays for a haircut…and a shot. 1431 Royal St., 504.948.7499. Map 3, J4; royalstreetinn.com SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic quaffs inside the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; therooseveltneworleans.com THE WILL & THE WAY Tucked between Bourbon and Royal, this easy-to-overlook gem offers a low-key vibe, well-crafted cocktails and an elevated bar menu. 2719 Toulouse St. Map 3, G4; thewillandtheway.com

THE FILLMORE Harrah’s Casino ups the city’s live-music ante with this 22,000-sq.-ft. offshoot of the legendary San Francisco venue, which features top national touring acts. 6 Canal St., 504.881.1555. Map 3, E6; fillmorenola.com HOUSE OF BLUES The New Orleans branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, mixing big-name tours with homegrown favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; hob.com THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. A rotating roster of top-tier local talent is featured; retro burlesque on Fridays. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map 3, F4; sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse MAPLE LEAF A tin roof and a sweaty dance floor make for a quintessential N’awlins experience fueled by funk from Crescent City greats. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3; mapleleafbar.com

NE W ORLE A NS

PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this beloved nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4; preservationhall.com REPUBLIC NOLA One of downtown’s hottest nightspots. Bands, touring and local, share the stage with a latenight dance club. 828 S. Peters St., 504.528.8282. Map 3, C6; republicnola.com SNUG HARBOR An intimate mainstay of Frenchmen Street’s music row. Two sets nightly. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4; snugjazz.com THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual, laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following. Live music starts at 2 pm, with additional sets at 6 and 10 pm. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5; spottedcatmusicclub.com STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Swing back to a bygone era at this WWII Museum venue, which mounts live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. 945 Magazine St., 504.529.1943. Map 3, B6; stagedoorcanteen.org. THREE MUSES A veritable NOLA nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, a smattering of small plates and live local music. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5; 3musesnola.com TIPITINA’S The legendary Tips offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; tipitinas.com TOULOUSE THEATRE This music venue takes its name from a former cinema in the same location. Local acts share billing with visiting performers from around the globe. 615 Toulouse St., 504.571.9771. Map 3, G5; toulousetheatre.com

MARCH 2024

Maps

NEW ORLEANS MAP 1: NEW ORLEANS METRO & JEFFERSON PARISH A

G 510

1 Dow

Rd nman

610

Pari s

4 TERRYTOWN

1 mi 2 km

MAP 2: SOUTH LOUISIANA 10

165 13

190

Crowley

Lafayette

190

Abbeville

Lake Maurepas 55

Laplace

New Iberia

14 90

3127

310

Thibodaux

182 82

Franklin

Metairie

Houma

Kenner

Lafitte

Raceland

New Orleans

Vermilion Bay

1 59

Slidell

Lake Pontchartrain 10

Napoleonville

Covington Abita 41 Springs 22 Mandeville

182

167

Hammond 12

Folsom

Plaquemine

10 90

165

E 51

Baton Rouge 190

190

Baker

61 1

Opelousas

Eunice

190

71 167

39 23

1 24

Gulf of Mexico

Port Sulphur

Atchafalaya Bay

Barataria Bay

Cailou Bay

Grand Isle

Buras-Triumph Venice

Gulf of Mexico

Terrebonne Bay

10 mi 10 km

THE GUIDE

Gretna

NEW ORLEANS MAP 3: CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT & FRENCH QUARTER A

LSU Health Sciences Center

Caesars Superdome

Smoothie King Center N.O. Pelicans

Joy Theater HS

Orpheum Theater

Cancer Survivors Park

ola

Loy

ine

ar L

etc

e Str

Civic Theatre

Canal Streetcar Line

Rampart Streetcar Line

LP VH

OV FP RS

St Louis Cathedral

La. Supreme OO Court Building

QC FI

rL tca

Museum of the ee Str Southern Jewish rles Experience Cha

St.

Madison

TULANE & LOYOLA UNIVERSITY

MA CM JW

ine

DI HF

RH DR

Wilkinson

N EW O R L E A N S M AP

Champions Square

HE WC

Toulouse St. Wharf

Canal WO OE Place

LE CA LW

National WWII Museum

Audubon Aquarium & Insectarium

HH RE

FS EB CN

Riverwalk Outlets

Canal St Ferry Landing

Poydras St. Wharf

Cana

l St

Ferr

HG HP

Girod St.

Riverfront Wharf Streetcar Line HA

Julia St. Cruise Terminal & Parking Garage

38 W HERETRAVELE R

NE W ORLE A NS

New Orleans International Cruise Terminal 1/8 mi 200 m

MARCH 2024

Maps

AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F3 K CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 1 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5 EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS Four Seasons, 2 Canal St., 434-5100 E6 FR The Frenchmen, 417 Frenchmen St., 688-2900 J5 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HQ Hampton Inn French Quarter Market, 501 Elysian Fields Ave., 381-0041 J5 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 B8 HR Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HH Higgins Hotel & Conference Center, 1000 Magazine St., 528-1941 B6 2 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 HF Hotel Fontenot, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PP Hotel Peter & Paul, 2317 Burgundy St., 365-5200 K5 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 4 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 PP LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 5 MG Magnolia Hotel, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 MZ Maison de la Luz, 546 Carondelet St., 814.7720 C5 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 MW Marriott Warehouse Arts District, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 577-1520 C7 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 t S 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 ain ve A e NO AvNOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 Sp h c n i l Ro FrankOV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 F3 St OR Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 D7 OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 6 OE One11 Hotel, 111 Iberville St., 699.8100 E6 PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 7 Street Direction RF Royal Frenchmen, 700 Frenchmen St., 619-9660 J4 French Quarter RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 Jazzy Passes VH Virgin Hotels New Orleans, 550 Baronne St., 833-791-7700 C4 1 day - $3 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 3 day - $9 8 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 31 day - 55 WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 Ride RTA buses and streetcars as WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 much as you’d like. WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 D4 K WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

r ts

rre

le Vil

qu Ur

t tS

s rai

Ma St

FS LK SP

e Av

u rg

hin

t yS

Madison

t eS

Wilkinson

N.O. Jazz Museum/ HM Old U.S. Mint

French Market

l ya Ro

Gov. Nicholls St. Wharf

Riverfront Streetcar Line

Crescent Park

KEY HM

Transit Routes

Hotel

Riverfront - $1.25 St. Charles - $1.25 Magazine - $1.25 Canal St - $1.25 Loyola - $1.25 Rampart - $1.25

BK Historic CY House

St Louis Cathedral

THE GUIDE

lau

C St

Jazz Giant Artist Brandan Odums’ massive mural of jazz pioneer Buddy “King” Bolden—”the first man of jazz”—encompases the entire facade of the former Little Gem Saloon at 445 S. Rampart St.



PARTING SHOT

40 W HERETRAVELER

NE W ORLE A NS

MARCH 2024

CHANEL vintage collection

329 Royal St New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 525-2262

Untitled-13 1