Where Magazine New Orleans May 23

Page 1

Music, Music, Music

Art in the Open Trevor Noah, Billy Porter and More

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C ONTENTS

14

Taste of the town: What’s on the MidCity menu.

The Rest of the Fests

18

Garden Arty

Four more music festivals to add to your must-catch list. 19

A stroll through the New Orleans Museum of Art’s stunning scuplture garden.

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TAURIAC; ©NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART
ESSENTIALS Editor’s Note 10 Calendar 12 Maps 37 Parting Shot 40 THE GUIDE Dining 21 Shopping 27 Attractions 30 Entertainment 33 Nightlife 36
Chef Isaac Toups and his hard-to-resist cracklins from Toups’ Meatery.
MAY 2023
©DENNY CULBERT
ON THE COVER

VISIT THE HISTORIC FRENCH MARKET DISTRICT

Long before French explorers founded New Orleans in 1718, Native Americans had established a bustling trading post on the site of what is now known as the French Market. e nation’s oldest public market continues to thrive today, with a variety of fresh produce vendors, eateries, ea market stalls, stand-alone shops and popular annual events, such as the Creole Tomato Festival. In addition to the open-air market, the French Market District includes the Upper Pontalba Buildings surrounding Jackson Square (the rst apartment complex in the U.S.), the Shops of the Colonnade and the riverfront Crescent Park. For a full lineup of o erings and free events, visit frenchmarket.org.

MARKET MERCH

Muse Inspired Fashion in the Upper Pontalba Building on Jackson Square is well known for fashion-forward, one-of-a-kind apparel and accessories for both women and men. From Bella Rose Jewelry to men’s seersucker jackets, Muse Inspired Fashion has been a trendsetter and trusted stylist to customers since 2006.

VENDOR SPOTLIGHT

Oscar of New Orleans is a xture in the French Market’s ea market and known for his popular wearable art in the form pins and earrings. Oscar rst discovered his artistic aptitude at a young age and has fostered his creativity through the years. People throughout the world now enjoy his whimsical, colorful creations.

WHAT’S HAPPENING

May 13

Asian Pacific American Heritage Festival

Co-hosted with the Asian Paci c American Society, festivities will feature cultural performances, food vendors, and community organizations.

June 10 and 11

Creole Tomato Festival

Celebrate the bounty of Southeast Louisiana at the 37th annual Creole Tomato Festival, featuring inspired food offerings and anticipated Bloody Mary Market!

© ZACK SMITH
SPECIAL
ADVERTISING

The city’s springtime festival season continues in full force throughout May, with the nal weekend of the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival drawing thousands to the Fair Grounds at the beginning of the month and the 48th annual Greek Fest capping things o along Bayou St. John over Memorial Day weekend. In between you’ll nd more amazing music and fun fests from Uptown (Shorty Fest) and down (Wednesday at the Square) to New Orleans East (Daze Between Fest) and Mid-City (Bayou Boogaloo).

Like most New Orleans festivals, in addition to great music acts, Bayou Boogaloo serves up a variety of local cuisine. For an even broader taste of area eateries, we’ve mapped out a far-from-exhaustive guide to Mid-City neighborhood must-tries. Cajun, Mediterranean, French, Italian, old-school, new-school, ne-dining, down-home—you’ll nd it all and then some.

Easily accessible via the Canal streetcar line, Mid-City is also home to scenic City Park, which is home to the New Orleans Museum of Art and its top-rated sculpture garden. Work o that overstu ed po’boy and syrupsoaked snoball with a leisurely stroll through the free, 11-acre outdoor gallery. All that walking got you craving more? You’ll discover additional dining options within both the park and museum.

Music, food and fun aren’t exclusive to the French Quarter. Let May’s citywide good times vibes point you…where they may.

201 R OYAL S TREET ~ F RENCH Q UARTER ~ N EW O RLEANS 504-523-2078 ~ www.mrbsbistro.com
NOTE 2023 MAY
Cindy Brennan EDITOR’S
THE 10 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS MAY 2023

PUBLISHER

Lois Sutton, 504.522.6468, lois.sutton@morris.com

EDITOR

Doug Brantley

ART DIRECTOR

Hadley Kincaid

CONTRIBUTORS

Jenny Adams, Shawn Fink, Lorin Gaudin

ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Stephanie Cantrell 504.522.6468, stephanie.cantrell@morris.com Vincent Tortorich, 504.522.6468, vincent.tortorich@morris.com

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©2023

11 NEW ORLEANS
by MCC Magazines, LLC. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in the publication, including any errors or omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement. Printed in the United States of America LIVE JAZZ SERIOUS BEER REAL FOOD 527 DECATUR STREET • NEW ORLEANS, LA 70130 504.522.0571 WWW.CCBNO.COM CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE FAMILY FRIENDLY BALCONY RIVERFRONT VIEWS PRIVATE EVENT SPACE AVAILABLE FRENCH QUARTER’S THE MICROBREWERY & RESTAURANT FIRST AND ONLY

CALENDAR

WHAT’S HAPPENING THE LINEUP

MAY 4-7

Jon Batiste, Kane Brown, H.E.R., Dead & Co., Santana, Mumford & Sons, Tom Jones and Herbie Hancock join local favorites Irma omas, Terence Blanchard, Dee Dee Bridgewater, John Boutté, Kermit Ru ns, BeauSoleil, Galactic and Flow Tribe, along with close to 300 additional acts, to close out the nal weekend of Jazzfest at the New Orleans Fair Grounds. Don’t skip the Cultural Exchange Pavilion, which salutes Puerto Rician music, dance, arts and cuisine, or Trombone Shorty & Orleans Avenue’s blow-you-away Sunday sendo on the Acura Stage. nojazzfest.com

GREAT THINGS THIS MONTH

Wednesday at the Square

May 3, 10 & 17

The free springtime concert series continues through mid-month at Lafayette Square (St. Charles and Lafayette), with performances beginning at 5 pm. May 3:

The Soul Rebels and Tonya Boyd-Cannon; May 10: Nigel Hall and Miss Mojo; May 17: glbl wrmng and LeTrainiump. ylcwats.com

Trevor Noah

May 12-13

The former “Daily Show” host pulls into town on his nationwide “Off the Record” tour, which parks at the Saenger for two laugh-packed nights. saengernola.com

Billy Porter

May 14

The Tony/Grammy/Emmywinning red carpet scene stealer lands at the Saenger Theatre in support of his new album, “Black Mona Lisa.” saengernola.com

Jon Cleary & Tank and the Bangas

May 20

Missed them at Jazzfest? Catch ’em at the Orpheum, where the 2016 Grammywinning piano man and the 2023 Grammy-nominated group join with the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra in celebration of conductor Carlos Miguel Prieto’s nal concert. orpheumnola.net

NOLA Food Fight

May 25

More than 30 leading local chefs and mixologists show off their skills and battle it out for bragging rights, while the Honey Island Swamp Band and other acts perform along the riverfront. food ghtnola.com

Greek Fest

May 26-28

NEW ORLEANS JAZZ & HERITAGE FESTIVAL 7

Dolmathes, souvlaki, roasted lamb, baklava: Load up on authentic Greek fare while roaming the grounds of the nation’s oldest Greek Orthodox Church, where you’ll also be treated to live music and Hellenic dancing. Ouzo shots? Opa! gfno.com

To Kill a Mockingbird

May 30-June 4

Harper Lee’s 1960 Pulitzerwinning novel captured a whole new audience with Aaron Sorkin’s recent Tony-winning Broadway adaptation. Richard (“John Boy”) Thomas takes on the role of Atticus Finch in the traveling production. saengernola.com

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TOP LEFT)
MUSIC GROUP;
“MOCKINGBIRD” BILLY PORTER JAZZFEST
THE
12 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS MAY 2023
WHERE! SAVE $3 Hop-On Hop-Off Garden District Central Business District French Quarter Super Dome Louis Armstrong Park St. Louis Cathedral St. Louis No. 1 Cemetery Visitor Center LOUISIANA AVE. ST. CHARLES AVE. POYDRAS RAMPART ST. CANAL ST. JACKSON AVE. DECATU BASIN ST. Harrah’s CASINO Arts District 9:45am 1st Dep. St. Charles Avenue Departures: 11, 12, 1, 2, 3pm Garden District WALKING TOUR Garden District Magazine St. @ Washington Ave. GDWT Only $25 Magazine Street Boutique Shopping Local Eateries World War II Museum The National 9:30am 1st Dep. Basin St. Station P 501 Basin Street Open 8:30am 5:30pm Public Parking Convenient Affordable 10hr - 24hr Canal Street Sheraton 9:35am 1st Dep. ch Tremé Marigny/Bywater Frenchmen St. French Market Departures: 11, 12, 1, 2, 3pm FQWT Only $25 French Quarter Jackson Square Ticket Office & Sightseeing Shop 700 Decautur St. Open 9am 5pm WALKING TOUR 19 18 17 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 16 Jackson Square 9:30am 1st Dep. Hop-On Hop-Off Buy Tickets Online: CitySightseeingNewOrleans.com 800.362.1811 - 504.207.6200 ST. LOUIS CEMETERY NO. 1 OFFICIAL TOUR Frequent Tour Departures | 9:00am to 3:45pm Space is Limited | Reserve Online 504-777-3027 I 800-368-1789 Journey through the City of the Dead www.CemeteryTourNewOrleans.com Save with PromoCode: Est1789

MID-CITY Munching

e Mid-City neighborhood’s wide-ranging restaurant scene serves up something for every appetite

So much May! With Jazzfest’s second weekend happening May 4-7 and Mid-City’s Bayou Boogaloo rocking May 19-21, the city is stu ed with festival foods. at said, as a rule, New Orleans leans heavily on food (music, art and culture too!), so if the aforementioned fests didn’t make your agenda, fret not, we’ve got you. Fashioning a food-centric sundial, using Bayou St. John as a center point and main drags—Carrollton, Esplanade, Bienville and the La tte Greenway—as “rays” o that, create your own destination dine-around with our noted (though hardly exhaustive) restaurants/cafés and menu suggestions.

CARROLLTON AVENUE

BLUE OAK BBQ

Fans ock here for all the smoky meats, though we love the wings, cracklins and crispy Brussels sprouts. e red beans and rice excellently rep the local Monday traditional meal.

900 N. CARROLLTON AVE., 504.822.2583; BLUEOAKBBQ.COM

TOUPS’ MEATERY

Chef Isaac Toups and wife Amanda are a treat, but those rillons (candied cracklins), the Con t Chicken ighs, burger and Crispy Turkey Necks are food wows. Always opt for the charcuterie at any meal, and at brunch, the Boudin Breakfast Burrito is where it’s at.

845 N. CARROLLTON AVE., 504.252.4999; TOUPSMEATERY.COM

14 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS MAY 2023  ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM WHERE
NEW ORLEANS
NOW

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: A BLUE OAK BBQ SAMPLER, PANDORA'S SNOWBALLS AND JUMBO LUMP CRAB SALAD WITH CHARRED VEGETABLES FROM TOUPS' MEATERY

PANDORA'S SNOWBALLS

A serious local favorite for good snow (soft shaved ice) and a large menu of sweet syrup avors and toppings. Big love goes out for the Orchid Vanilla with condensed milk, as well as the awesome soft-serve ice cream for non-snoballers.

901 N. CARROLLTON AVE., 504.285.4867; @PANDORASSNOWBALLS

BEVI SEAFOOD CO.

Yes, the boiled seafood is a standout, but so are the po’boys (fried catfish!) and debris fries. Daiquiris and other boozy concoctions spinning in the machine are a big “yes.”

236 N. CARROLLTON AVE., 504.488.7503; BEVISEAFOODCO.COM

VENEZIA

New Orleans Italian food, which means red sauce on the sweeter side. Locals love the antipasto salad,

pizzas, paneed veal, fettuccine Alfredo and ice-cold martinis. Save room for dessert (see below).

134 N. CARROLLTON AVE., 504.488.7991; VENEZIANEWORLEANS.COM

ANGELO BROCATO’S

A 2023 James Beard Finalist, this 120-year-old bakery/ gelateria is full of Sicilian charm and the place to go for top-notch gelato, homemade cookies, pastries (get a mezzo crema or tiramisu slice) and deep espressos served with a lemon twist.

214 N. CARROLLTON AVE., 504.486.1465; ANGELOBROCATOICECREAM.COM

JUST OFF CARROLLTON

RALPH’S ON THE PARK

Where to begin…the house-made fruit sodas (recently

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Where Now

blood orange juice, basil syrup and soda), the $25 two-course lunch, Classic Turtle Soup, Brown Butter Glazed Fish and Lemon Ice Box Pie. ere’s a killer three-course kid’s menu, too.

900 CITY PARK AVE., 504.488.1000; RALPHSONTHEPARK.COM

BIENVILLE STREET

KATIE’S

Home-cooking comfort is the vibe. Standouts include cheddar- and beef gravy-topped Swamp Fries, chargrilled oysters, Mama Parino’s Meatball po’boy and the Parino on the Hill pizza, topped with red sauce and spectacular, locally made Italian sausage.

3701 IBERVILLE ST., 504.488.6582; KATIESINMIDCITY.COM

LIUZZA’S

RESTAURANT & BAR

A 75-year-old dining institution beloved for its Frenchuletta—a French bread sandwich twist on the famous mu uletta (meats, cheeses and tart olive salad on round bread). Here, there are no wrong orders. From creamy red beans and rice to New Orleans Italian classics (eggplant parm, lasagna, meatballs), po’boys, pizza and more. Every meal needs an icy, oversized schooner of beer. Yes, they have green stu (salads, veg), but why?

3636 BIENVILLE ST., 504.482.9120; @LIUZZASRESTAURANTANDBAR

NEYOW’S CREOLE CAFÉ

A busy place with good reason: e food is centered on traditional dishes like lé gumbo, red beans and rice, shrimp Creole, fried seafood and stellar sides like Carrot

Sou e and gorgeously rich macaroni and cheese. Get a Neyow’s Punch (spiked or virgin), and don't skip the homemade bread pudding with cinnamon-cream sauce. Check out “Neyow’s XL” Sunday brunch for prime steak and eggs.

PARKWAY BAKERY & TAVERN

One word: iconic. While known for their messy roast beef po’boy, all Parkway po’boys are good. Is it the bread? Yes. Is it the fillings? Yes. Fried seafood to caprese, French fries to corned beef—there’s even po’boy bread pudding. The sleeper is a boozy, grapefruit-y frozen Porch Swing. You’ll want two.

16 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS MAY 2023 
(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©NEYOW'S; ©ZACK SMITH/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©FULL BLAST BRUNCH 3332 BIENVILLE ST., 504.827.5474; NEWORLEANS.NEYOWS.COM
Where Now
538 HAGAN AVE., 504.482.3047; PARKWAYPOORBOYS.COM CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: NEYOW'S CREOLE CAFÉ, PARKWAY BAKERY & TAVERN AND FULL BLAST BRUNCH; OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: CAFÉ DEGAS, 1000 FIGS AND LOLA'S

JUST OFF BIENVILLE

FULL BLAST BRUNCH

New on the scene, this full-on breakfast, brunch and lunch spot o ers eye-opening cocktails and co ee drinks. Check out the Cajun Scramble with smoked sausage, shrimp, onion, tomato and cheddar over potatoes or the Full Blast Benedict with poached eggs and bacon on jalapeno-cheddar grit cakes.

139 S. CORTEZ ST., 504.302.2800; FULLBLASTBRUNCH.COM

ESPLANADE AVENUE

CAFÉ DEGAS

Another beloved restaurant of long standing. is sweet French bistro’s dining space is set on a charming indoor/outdoor covered

deck. Top options are French onion soup, steak frites, ursday 30%-o bottle wine night or the outstanding weekend brunch.

3127 ESPLANADE AVE., 504.945.5635; CAFEDEGAS.COM

LOLA’S

Across Esplanade from Degas, Lola’s is a tiny Spanish spot that begs the question: Do you like garlic? If so, this is the place, from the garlic soup and crusty fresh-baked bread with garlic aioli spread to sautéed garlic shrimp and stunning pastas. e paella is superb.

3312 ESPLANADE AVE., 504.488.6946; LOLASNEWORLEANS.COM

1000 FIGS

Of all the Mediterranean-style restaurants around town, here is where to nd the city’s best falafel

as a sandwich, feast or platter piled with kale and cabbage salad, dips, sauces and fresh bread. No matter what, get the fries and ash-fried Brussels sprouts with garlicky toum for dunking.

3141 PONCE DE LEON, 504.301.0848; 1000FIGS.COM

JUST OFF ESPLANADE

LIUZZA’S BY THE TRACK

A fun neighborhood restaurant/ bar xture that’s usually lled with locals, Liuzza’s is best known for its BBQ Shrimp Poboy and really, really, good Creole Gumbo. Keeping with the garlic theme of the area, we also love the Garlic Oyster PoBoy and sweet potato fries with a frosty beer.

1518 N. LOPEZ ST., 504.218.7888; LIUZZASBTT.COM

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Where Now

The Rest of the Fests

SHORTY FEST

MAY 1

This annual Troy “Trombone Shorty” Andrews Foundation fundraiser, benefiting budding local musicians, celebrates its 10th year with performances by Andrews, Galactic, Tank and the Bangas, The Havana Funk Experience and more at Tipitina’s.

TIPITINAS.COM

NOLA CRAWFISH FEST

MAY 1-3

Never experienced a Big Easy backyard crawfish boil? Here’s your chance. Chris “Shaggy” Davis—aka “the Crawfish King”—works his mudbug magic while Ivan Neville, Sonny Landreth, the Lost Bayou Ramblers and more great local acts perform for your tail-pinching pleasure. There’s a Crawfish Eatin’ Competition (free admission for participants), a 20-team cook-off, area arts and craft vendors—dig in!

NOLACRAWFISHFEST.COM

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DAZE BETWEEN FEST

MAY 2-3

Free- owing beer and nonstop music on two outdoor stages? Yes, please. e city’s largest brewery plays host to Tank and the Bangas, George Porter Jr., the Honey Island Swamp Band and other regional standouts, along with visiting national bands, including the Connecticut-based indie groovers Goose, who close out both days.

DAZEBETWEENNOLA.COM

4

MID-CITY

BAYOU BOOGALOO

MAY 19-21

e Yonder Mountain String Band, Juvenile and Reverend Horton Heat headline this annual a air along the banks of Bayou St. John, joined by close to 20 more acts (Boyfriend, Bonerama, the Rebirth Brass Band). In addition to food and arts vendors and family-focused activities, new this year are “water tickets” and a comedy stage.

THEBAYOUBOOGALOO.COM

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18 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS MAY 2023
Jazzfest isn’t the only musicminded game in town this month

Garden Arty

Named the nation’s No.1 sculpture park by USA Today readers in 2022, the New Orleans Museum of Art’s Besthoff Sculpture Garden features more than 90 works spread among 11-plus artfully landscapes acres in City Park. Open daily, from 10 am to 6 pm, the free facility is divided into two sections, incorporating early 20th-century greats (including Auguste Rodin, Henry Moore, Magritte and Renoir) with their 21st-century contemporaries (Hank Willis Thomas, Maya Lin, Gehry and Stella). The open-air venue also plays host to live performances, such as the NOLA Project’s staging of Shakespeare’s “A Midsummer Night’s Dream” May 10-28. Get out and soak up some culture. NOMA.ORG; NOLAPROJECT.COM

“GREAT SEATED CARDINAL,” BY GIACOMO MANZÙ

PEACHY KEEN

Georgia peach and blue crab from Mister Mao (p. 26). As of press time, the following listings were accurate and up to date but subject to change; call ahead to verify hours.

LOOK FOR our featured advertisers throughout the Guide.
 ©PAPRIKA STUIDOS
THE
GUIDE
OUR FAVORITES

DINING

Central Business/ Warehouse District

BÉSAME

Latin. Chef Nanyo Dominguez’s Latin American menu covers a lot of ground: Oaxacan-style ceviche, crispy cauliflower tapas, Yucatan pork. For big appetites, the seafood paella more than satisfies. L (ThSu), D (Th-M). 110 S. Rampart St., 504.308.0880. Map 3, E3; besame-nola.com

CHEMIN À LA MER

Louisiana.French for “path to the sea,” chef Donald Link’s gorgeous Four Seasons space offers incredible views of the Mississippi, a well-stocked raw bar and top-tier steaks. B, L D (daily). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; cheminalamer.com

COCHON

Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and housecured meats. L, D (daily). 930

Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; cochonrestaurant.com

COMPÈRE LAPIN

Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia, chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as blackened pig ears with smoked aioli and curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi. D (nightly). 535

Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6; comperelapin.com

COPPER VINE

American. Along with 30 varietals on tap and an additional 20 by the glass, this easygoing “wine pub” serves up duck fat fries, a wide variety of flatbreads and heartier fare, such as Gulf fish amandine. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1001

Poydras St., 504.208.9535. Map 3, C4; coppervine.com

THE DAILY BEET

Vegetarian Light, healthy eats and cold-pressed juices are the draw at this hip café. Tuck into a shaved Brussels

sprouts salad or an Orbit Bowl of warm wild rice, avocado, runny egg, kimchi and pickled veg. B, L (daily). 1000 Girod St., 504.605.4413. Map 3, C4; B, L, D (daily). 3300 Magazine St., 504.766.0377. Map 1, D4; thedailybeetnola.com

DESI VEGA’S

STEAKHOUSE

Steaks. Sure, there are standout appetizers (baconwrapped, crab-stuffed shrimp) and killer sides (andouillecrawfish mac ’n’ cheese), but the big get here is the sizable USDA prime beef steaks cooked to perfection. L (MFr), D (Tu-Sa). 628 St. Charles Ave., 504.523.7600. Map 3, B7; desivegasteaks.com

DOMENICA

Italian Out-of-the-norm antipasti (roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics. Mangia, mangia! L, D (daily). 123 Baronne St., 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3; domenicarestaurant.com

EMERIL’S

Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, the restaurant is now under the helm of his son, E.J., whose top-notch team turns out a variety of ever-changing, multicourse tasting menus. D (Tu-Sa). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com

GIANNA

Italian. The focus here is on rustic Italian cuisine. Chopped salad, meatballs in red gravy, lamb-and-mushroom lasagna, veal saltimbocca with pasta bordelaise; finish with a gelato and biscotti. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 700 Magazine St., 504.399.0816. Map 3, C6; giannarestaurant.com

GRAND ISLE

Seafood. This comfy seafood house boasts such standouts as smoked fried oysters, hot crab dip and other Southern favorites. Grab a seat at the bar for shrimp by the pound and cold beer from taps encased in ice. L (F-Su), D (W-Su). 575 Convention Center

Blvd., 504.520.8530. Map 3, D6; grandislerestaurant.com

MAYPOP

Eclectic. Chef Michael Gulotta (MoPho) expands on his Asianfusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrialterrarium vibe. Dig into fried oysters with bourbon-soy ailoi or go spicy with coconut braised lamb. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4; maypoprestaurant.com

MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Korean short ribs to Mexican street corn. L (F-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com/meril

MISS RIVER

Louisiana. Chef Alon Shaya’s culinary love letter to the city includes renditions of local classics like the muffuletta and oyster patty, along with dramatic share-with-the-table whole fried chicken and clay pot dirty rice with duck. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; missrivernola.com

PÊCHE

Seafood. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole fish, you can’t go wrong. L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; pecherestaurant.com

POKE LOA

Hawaiian.This bright spot offers build-your-own poke bowls of tuna, yellowtail, salmon and/or tofu cubes atop fresh greens and rice, veggies and an array of garnishes. L, D (M-F). 939 Girod St., 504.571.5174. Map 3, B4; L, D (daily). 3341 Magazine St., 504.309.9993. Map 1, D4; eatpokeloa.com

RESTAURANT AUGUST

Contemporary. Fine dining at its finest. The surroundings are elegant, and the food is spectacular, combining

European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. D (nightly). 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5; restaurantaugust.com

SEAWORTHY

Seafood This chic offshoot of New York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West Coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. L (Sa-Su), D (nightly). 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5; seaworthynola.com

TRUE FOOD KITCHEN

Eclectic. Backed by powerhouses Dr. Andrew Weil and Oprah Winfrey, there’s everything to love about this “health-driven” restaurant, from the edamame dumplings to the ancient grains bowl and grass-fed burgers. L, D (daily). 801 St. Charles Ave., 504.558.3900. Map 3, B5; truefoodkitchen.com

TSUNAMI

Sushi. At this sprawling emporium the usual sushi suspects sit menu-side with funky items like calamari “fries.” Grab a seat at the bar and create your own roll. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 601 Poydras St., 504.608.3474. Map 3, C5; servingsushi.com

French Quarter ANTOINE’S

Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure with rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. L (M, Th-F), D (M, Th-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4; antoines.com

ARNAUD’S

Creole. In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of its many famous dishes. D (Tu-Sa); Br (Su). 813 Bienville

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THE GUIDE

St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; arnaudsrestaurant.com

BAYONA

Contemporary. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and lemon-caper sautéed sweetbreads. L (Th-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3; bayona.com

BIJOU

International. Easygoing-yetsophisticated is the vibe here. Kick off with fried goat cheese and tomato jam before moving on to hanger steak with patatas bravas or meatless curried cauliflower. Finish with a warm cookie plate. D (M, W-Sa). 1014 N Rampart St., 504.603.0557. Map 3, H3; bijouneworleans.com

BRENNAN’S

Creole. The legendary establishment continues more than seven decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (Th-M). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4; brennansneworleans.com

BROUSSARD’S

Creole. Broussard’s, established in 1920, remains one of the French Quarter’s premier fine dining spots with one of the most elegant courtyards in the Quarter. The kitchen turns out long-popular classic, such as bronzed redfish with lump crab. D (Tu-Sa); Br (F-Su). 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4; broussards.com

CAFÉ BEIGNET

Coffee. Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun classics. Open daily. 311 Bourbon St., 504.500.4370. Map 3, F4; 334 Royal St. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St. Map 3, F5; 622 Canal St.; Map 3, E5; cafebeignet.com

CAFÉ DU MONDE

Coffee. In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a must-

do. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. Open daily. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; cafedumonde.com

CANE & TABLE

Cuban. This rum-centric restaurant provides a taste of the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu. L (Sa-Su), D (W-Su). 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5; caneandtablenola.com

COURT OF TWO SISTERS

Creole. No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with Southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. Br, D (daily).

613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4; courtoftwosisters.com

CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE

Louisiana. The French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring microbrews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the pretzel with beer cheese, German sausage and baby back ribs with sugarcane glaze. L, D (daily). 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, G5; crescentcitybrewhouse.com

DIAN XIN

Chinese. Dim sum craving? Satisfy it here. Steamed pork dumplings, crab-and-crawfish bao, salt-and-pepper squid; the menu goes on and on. L, D (Tu-Su). 1218 Decatur St., 504.266.2828. Map 3, I4; 620 Conti St., 504.372.3372. Map 3, F4; dianxinnnola.com; dianxinonconti.com

DORIS METROPOLITAN

Steaks. A stunning steakhouse and butcher shop with superior quality dry-aged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. L (F), D (Tu-Su). 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4; dorismetropolitan.com

FRENCH TOAST

Breakfast. Breakfast is the get at this popular French Quarter spot. There are sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta). B, L (daily). 1035 Decatur St., 504.300.5518. Map 3,H5; toastneworleans.com

GALATOIRE’S

Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s has been a gravity center of New Orleans. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. L, D (W-Su). 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4; galatoires.com

GW FINS

Seafood. The local obsession with seafood is taken to global heights here, with fresh fish flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. D (nightly). 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4; gwfins.com

JEWEL

OF THE SOUTH

Contemporary. This hidden gem pays homage to a 19thcentury restaurant of the same name, with retro cocktails (brandy crustas, French 75s) and an ever-changing, seasonal menu. L (Su), D (W-M). 1026 St. Louis St., 504.265.8816. Map 3, F3; jewelnola.com

JUSTINE

French. Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is both classic and contemporary in design, but the menu is fullon French: onion soup gratinée, escargot, steak frites. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533. Map 3, E4; justinenola.com

KILLER POBOYS

Contemporary. This small joint has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chefcrafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw. L, D (W-M). 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St. (in the Erin Rose

bar), 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4; killerpoboys.com

MAMOU

French. A modern French bistro with Creole flavors. Cooked salmon tucked into brioche beignets, red beans cassoulet topped with slices of head cheese, roasted chicken with garlicky parley potatoes. For dessert? Lemon madeleines. D (Th-Su). 942 N. Rampart St., 504.381.4557. Map 3, H3; mamounola.com

MR. B’S BISTRO

Louisiana. Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual powerlunch scene. Must-gets include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding with Irish whiskey sauce. L (W-Sa), D (W-Su); Br (Su). 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4; mrbsbistro.com

NAPOLEON HOUSE

Louisiana. Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas. L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; napoleonhouse.com

PALACE CAFÉ

Creole. Part of the Brennan restaurant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake and andouille-crusted Gulf fish. L (W-F), D (W-Su); jazz brunch, SaSu. 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4; palacecafe.com

PALM & PINE

Eclectic. This progressive restaurant explores the wider definition of the South, including Latin America. There’s hot sausage carimañolas and duck tamales or dig into closer-tohome flavors of turkey neck gumbo. D (W-M); Br (Su). 308 N. Rampart St., 504.814.6200. Map 3, F3; palmandpinenola.com

SAINT JOHN

Creole. Creole classics reenvisioned through a contemporary lens. Hot shrimp remoulade, pork belly

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cassoulet, bacon fat-seared duck with satsuma glaze— everything old is delicious again. Br, D (W-M). 1117 Decatur St., 504.435.5151. Map 3, I5; saintjohnnola.com

SYLVAIN

Contemporary WElegant chandeliers dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub near Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as Fried chicken sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4; sylvainnola.com

TABLEAU

Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes. Finish with a tarte à la bouillie. D (W-Su); Br (Th-Su). 616 St Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4; tableaufrenchquarter.com

THAIHEY NOLA

Thai. Vibrant, modern Thai cuisine. Start with saltylemony fried okra, followed by the red curry frog legs and Louisiana crab fried rice. A full vegan menu is available as well. L, D (W-M). 308 Decatur St., 504.354.8646. Map 3, F5; thaiheynola.com

TUJAGUE’S

Creole. A historic restaurant with a new location, new look and newly reconstructed, five-course table d’hôte menu. Choose from the classic set menu or go á la carte with contemporary dishes. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 429 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, G5; tujaguesrestaurant.com

Garden District/ Lower Garden District

ATCHAFALAYA

Louisiana. Look for the giant cast-iron skillet outside of this homey neighborhood spot and dishes such as free-form blue crab ravioli and crispy duck. Br, D (Th-M). 901 Louisiana Ave., 504.891.9626. Map 1, D4; atchafalayarestaurant.com

COMMANDER’S PALACE

Creole. Chef Meg Bickford carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in an elegant atmosphere. L (Th-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (SaSu). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; commanderspalace.com

COQUETTE

French What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stacked with stellar standouts. D (nightly). 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4; coquettenola.com

GRIS-GRIS

Louisiana. Chef Eric Cook whips up elevated New Orleans standards (oyster-and-caviar po’ boys, sugarcane-seared duck) from his hopping open kitchen.The adjacent Gris-Gris to Go Go offers grab-andgo items. Br, D (W-M). 1800 Magazine St., 504.272.0241. Map 1, D4; grisgrisnola.com

LENGUA MADRE

Mexican. AChef Ana Castro and team turn out a five-star, five-course tasting menu of reimagined traditional Mexican cuisine. The adventurous menu changes with the seasons. D (W-Su). 145 Constance St., 504.655.1338. Map 1, D3; lenguamadrenola.com

SAN LORENZO

Italian. The Hotel Saint Vincent’s elegant eatery serves up homemade pasta tumbled in light sauces, platters of chilled raw seafood and wood-fired steaks. Great wine list. L (MF), D (nighty); Br (Sa-Su). 1507 Magazine St., 504.350.2450. Map 1, D4; saintvincentnola.com,

TURKEY AND THE WOLF

Eclectic. Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, collard green melts. Don’t pass on the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. L (W-M). 739

Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4; turkeyandthewolf.com

Marigny/Bywater

ALMA

Honduran. Chef Melissa Araujo’s menu reflects her Honduran heritage: savory orroz con pollo, baked plantains with refried pintos and housemade crema, Central American sweetbreads to go with Colombian coffee. Br (daily). 800 Louisa St., 504.381.5877. Map 1, E3;eatalmanola.com

BACCHANAL

Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L, D (daily). 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3; bacchanalwine.com

THE COUNTRY CLUB

Louisiana. Known for its swimming pool, this longpopular Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crab beignets, truffle mac ‘n’ cheese) or full-on entrees, such as duck cassoulet. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; thecountryclubneworleans.com

N7

French. This quiet, tucked-away bistro is named for France’s Route Nationale 7. Escargot, steamed mussels, steak au poivre, duck a l’orange, a lovely wine list and fine service equate to total charm. D (M-Sa); Br (FSa). 1117 Montegut St. Map 1, E3; n7nola.com

PALADAR 511

Contemporary. California cooking New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5; paladar511.com

Mid-City

ADDIS NOLA

African. Eating with your hands is encouraged here.

Spongy injera flatbread is perfect for pinching bits of doro wat (chicken), spicy stewed lentils and mitmita-dusted kitfo (beef) with fresh cottage cheese. D (W-M). 2514 Bayou Rd., 504.218.5321. Map 1, E2; addisnola.com

BLUE OAK BBQ

Barbecue. Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spareribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. If the barbecued pork egg rolls make a menu appearance, get them. L, D (daily). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3; blueoakbbq.com

FLOUR MOON BAGELS

Bakery. Hand-shaped, boiled and baked New York-style bagels are the get here. You’ll also find a broad menu of bagel sandwiches and open-faced tartines. B, L (Th-Tu). 457 N. Dergenois St. Map 1, D3; flourmoonbagels.com

PIECE OF MEAT

Steaks. This former butcher shop is now a full-on restaurant with tempting brunch options: boudin eggrolls, short rib hash, blueberry-stuffed French toast. Dinner is all about the top-quality steaks. D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 3301 Bienville St., 504.372.2289. Map 1, D3; pieceofmeatbutcher.com

TOUPS’ MEATERY

Cajun. Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. L (MF), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3; toupsmeatery.com

ZASU

Seafood. James Beard Awardwinning chef Sue Zemanick goes coastal at her intimate Mid-City space: grilled baby octopus, tuna crudo, salmon with caramelized sauerkraut and dill spaetzle. D (M, W-Sa). 127 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.267.3233. Map 1, D2; zasunola.com

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DINING

UPTOWN COSTERA

Spanish This casual spot’s Spanish-inspired menu encourages plate-sharing with a wide range of tapas (patatas bravas, beef shank-and-potato bombas), along with larger entrees such as seafood paella. D (W-M). 4938 Prytania St., 504.302.2332. Map 1, D4; costerarestaurant.com

DAKAR NOLA

African. Senegal-born chef Serigne Mbaye’s tasting menu restaurant combines the flavors of Africa and Louisiana, served in seven courses at a single 7 pm seating. D (Th-Sa). 3814 Magazine St., 504493-9396. Map 1, D4; dakarnola.com

LA BOULANGERIE

Bakery. This French bakery doles out savory and sweet artisanal goods to regulars who are loyal verging on addicted. Almond or ham-and-cheese croissants make light snacks, while loaves baked with blue cheese or olives are all good enough to devour on their own.

B, L (daily). 4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777. Map 1, D4; laboulangerienola.com

LA PETITE GROCERY

French. An intimate bistro with gas lighting and pressedtin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. L (Th-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4; lapetitegrocery.com

MISTER MAO

Eclectic. The food here is as fun as the quirky interior. The “inauthentic” globally inspired menu swings from escargot Wellington to octopus with mango and cerveza jelly. D (ThM); Br (Su). 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.345.2056. Map 1, D4; mistermaonola.com

PICNIC PROVISIONS & WHISKEY

Southern. Crawfish-boil hot fried chicken anchors the menu at this playful Commander’s Palace offshoot near Audubon

26 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS MAY 2023
Show your love for New Orleans
silver engraved charm
Sterling

GEORGE RODRIGUE STUDIO

THE ST. LOUIS GARDEN

Park. Begin with the crab dip and finish with a marshmallowtopped brownie. L, D (Tu-Su). 741 State St., 504.266.2810. Map 1, D4; nolapicnic.com

SABA

Mediterranean. Chef Alon Shaya provides a taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as harissa chicken with laurel leaves. L (F), D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine St., 504.324.7770. Map 1, D4; eatwithsaba.com

WISHING TOWN BAKERY & CAFÉ

Chinese. Hong Kong-style dumplings and super-cool baked goods are on tap here. Order from the long list of dumplings, noodles, salads and soups. L, D (daily). 802 Nashville Ave., 504.533.9166; wishingtown.com

SHOPPING

Art Galleries & Antiques

ANTIEAU GALLERY

Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her French Quarter gallery. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. 719 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, G4; antieaugallery.com

ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY

One of New Orleans’ leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. 432 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5; arthurrogergallery.com

ASHLEY LONGSHORE

Step into this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4; ashleylongshore.com

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THE GUIDE Dining/Shopping
730
www.GeorgeRodrigue.com New Orleans, LA |
Mon - Sat: 11:am - 5:00pm Sun: 12:00pm - 5:00pm Mon - Sat: 11:00am - 5:00pm
Silkscreen Designed by George Rodrigue in 2011 and Printed in 2023 Estate Stamped Edition of 150, 37 x 15 inches Royal Street (behind St. Louis Cathedral)
504-581-4244

BEVOLO

GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS

The vast majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. Contemporary designs are featured at 304 Royal, while 316 Royal is home to a lighting museum where you’ll see lamps being made by hand. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 304 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; 316-318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; bevolo.com

CRAIG TRACY GALLERY

The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the famed bodypainter enhances with eye-tricking imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; craigtracy.com

FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY

Award-winning photographer

Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. 440 Julia St., 504.547.5931. Map 3, H4; frankrelle.com

KEIL’S ANTIQUES

Founded in 1899, Keil’s established its reputation with rare 18th- and 19th-century French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4; keilsantiques.com

M.S. RAU ANTIQUES

This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 622 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4; rauantiques.com

MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERIES

This branch of the nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limited-edition graphics by such famed artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol and Erté, among others. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4; martinlawrence.com

MICHALOPOULOS

The off-kilter architectural renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4; michalopoulos.com

(MOSTLY) ROCK ’N’ ROLL GALLERY

David Bowie, the Eurythmics, Freddie Mercury, U2: Steve Rapport’s photo archive reads like a 1980s rock royalty roll call. You’ll also find images of local musicians. 627 St. Peter St.; mostlyrocknroll.com

RODRIGUE STUDIO

Devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular Blue Dog series are available. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; georgerodrigue.com

SCENE BY RHYS

“New Orleans music inked into art.” Like her legendary father, Noel Rockmore, known for his Preservation Hall paintings during the 1960s, Rhys captures the beat of the city through portraits of its musicians. 1036 Royal St., 504.258.5842. Map 3, H4; scenebyrhys.com

TERRANCE

OSBORNE GALLERY

Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; terranceosborne.com

VINTAGE 329

A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this shop is filled with

Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Retro sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4; vintage329.com

WINDSOR FINE ART

This fine art gallery features original works from the old masters and masters of the Belle Époque to the modern masters and the biggest names in post-war contemporary art. Internationally renowned contemporary artists and sculpture are also featured. 221 Royal St., 504. 586.0202. Map 3, F4; windsorfineart.com

Books & Music

BALDWIN & CO.

In addition to books geared to a wide range of interests, this popular shop also houses a coffee bar and podcast studio. 1003 Elysian Fields Ave., 504.354.1741. Map 3, I3; baldwinandcobooks.com

CRESCENT CITY BOOKS

Louisiana’s sole member of the Antiquarian Bookseller’s Association. In addition to a large selection of vintage books, the shop offers maps and prints. 240 Chartres St., 504.524.4997. Map 3, E3; crescentcitybooks. com

FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS

For six months in 1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldier’s Pay.” First additions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. 624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940. Map 3, G4; faulknerhousebooks.com

LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY

There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; louisianamusicfactory.com

PEACHES RECORDS

For nearly five decades, this local chain has been promoting area musicians with a large

selection of New Orleans music. 4318 Magazine St., 504.282.3322. Map 1, D4

Clothing, Hats, Shoes & Accessories

BELLA UMBRELLA

Cloudy skies? This shop helps keep a sunny disposition with cool rain gear, ranging from vintage parasols to its signature pagoda-style umbrellas. 2036 Magazine St., 504.302.1036. Map 1, D4; bellaumbrella.com

BILLY REID

Award-winning designer

Reed’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his birth state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4; billyreid.com

CENTURY GIRL

A bright, glittery women’s clothing and accessories emporium that steps back in time with gorgeous retro fashions. 2023 Magazine St., 504.875.3105. Map 1, D4;centurygirlvintage.com

DIRTY COAST

Catering to locals and inthe-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. 1320 Magazine St., 504.766.0752. Map 1, E4; 5415 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4; dirtycoast.com

GOORIN BROS. HATS

The city’s newest hat shop dates to 1895, when milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s hip headwear is found nationwide. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; goorin.com

JON FLUEVOG

“Unique soles for unique souls.” This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among trendy travelers. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4; fluevog.com

SHOE BE DO

Get a step ahead with cuttingedge women’s footwear from up-and-coming international

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SHOPPING

KILLER POBOYS

designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; shoebedousa.com

UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS

A bargain hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items at drastically reduced prices. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4; 3306 Magazine St., 504.354.2777. Map 1, D4; shopual.com

Gifts & Collectibles

BUNGALOWS

This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and gift items. 610 Chartres St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4; shopbungalows.com

504.462.2731

DARK MATTER

Jars of preserved scorpions. Taxidermy mice, mummified birds and possum skulls. Eerie art and moody photography. More than 30 regional oddity artisans are represented in this macabre space. 822 Chartres St. Map 3, H5

FLEURTY GIRL

These popular boutiques are packed with Crescent City collectibles, NOLA-centric T-shirts and great gift items. 617 Chartres St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; fleurtygirl.net

HEX OLD WORLD WITCHERY

A magical emporium offering everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. 1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5; hexwitch.com

OMEN

This witchcraft shop offers psychic readings, along with candles, brooms and the city’s largest selection of tarot decks. Psychics are also available for private events. 1205 Decatur

29
Killer Poboys
Dauphine St
Killer Poboys @ Erin Rose Bar 811 Conti St
Internationally Inspired, Chef Crafted, New Orleans Style Sandwiches
219
THE GUIDE Shopping

St., 504.322.7440. Map 3, I4; omensalem.com

PASSION LILIE/ BEATRIX BELL

This designer-owned boutique features handcrafted jewelry and fairtrade clothing, along with a curated collection of home accessories, bath and body goods and gift items. 831 Chartres St., 504.5070644. Map 3, H5; plbbcollective. myshopify.com

Jewelry

ART & EYES

The eyes have it at this chic eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; artandeyesneworleansla.com

FLEUR D’ORLEANS

French Quarter cast iron, St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and Uptown ornamental columns are among the architectural elements incorporated into the jewelry here. 717 Royal St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; fleurdorleans.com

PORTER LYONS

Jewelry designer Ashley Lyons is a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations. 623 Royal St., 504.518.4945. Map 3, G4; porterlyons.com

Malls/Major Retailers

CANAL PLACE

Some of world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton and Saks Fifth Avenue. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5; canalplacestyle.com

LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER

A favorite shopping stop of New Orleanians, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores. 301 Veterans Blvd., 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2; lakesideshopping.com

RIVERWALK OUTLETS

Located along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the nation’s first urban outlet center offers more than 70 shops. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7; riverwalkneworleans.com

ATTRACTIONS

Attractions & Landmarks

ARMSTRONG PARK

Named for the late jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre greenspace is home to Congo Square, where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2

AUDUBON PARK

Walk, jog, golf or picnic among the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org

AUDUBON ZOO

Inhabited by more than 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the finest in the U.S. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org

CITY PARK

Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 D2; neworleanscitypark.com

CRESCENT PARK

Looking for unique views of the city? Stroll along this 1.4mile riverfront promenade, which stretches from the French Quarter to the Bywater neighborhood. Map 3, J6; crescentparknola.org

DESTREHAN PLANTATION

A 30-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter, and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily: M-Th, 9 am-3 pm; F-Su, 10

am-4 pm. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 985.764.9315; destrehanplantation.org

FRENCH MARKET

America’s oldest public market. Along with homegrown specialties, it also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1008 N. Peters St., 504.636.6400. Map 3, H5; frenchmarket.org

HARRAH’S CASINO

The city’s largest casino is located at the foot of Canal Stree. The mammoth pleasure palace features 115,000 square feet of gaming space and a number of dining venues. 228 Poydras St., 800.427.7247. Map 3, E6; caesars.com/ harrahs-new-orleans

HOUMAS HOUSE HISTORIC ESTATE AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds. A museum charting the history of River Road is also featured. Daily tours, 9:30 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La, 225.473.9380; houmashouse.com

JACKSON SQUARE

The heart of the Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street.Map 3, G5

LAFOURCHE PARISH

Outdoor enthusiast? Head “down the bayou,” just 35 minutes south of the city. Lafourche lives up to Louisiana’s “sportsman’s paradise” moniker with charter fishing, kayaking, paddle boarding, swamp tours and more. lacajunbayou.com

NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK

This pocket-sized park celebrates Bourbon Street’s musical legacy with statues of Allen Toussaint, Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offer cool libations, lite bites and live music. 311

Bourbon St., 504.888.7608. Map 3, F4

OLD URSULINE CONVENT

Dating to 1727, this is the oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M, Th-Sa, 10 and 11 am and 1 pm. 1112 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4; stlouiscathedral.org

SMOOTHIE KING CENTER

Cousin to the Superdome, the Center is home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, D8; smoothiekingcenter.com

ST. BERNARD PARISH

Founded by Canary Islanders in 1778, today St. Bernard Parish is a thriving, familyoriented community and popular fishing and birding destination. Attractions include Chalmette Battlefield, the Los Isleños Museum & Village and St. Bernard State Park. visitstbernard.com

ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL

Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Jackson Square, 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4; stlouiscathedral.org

STUDIO BE

Brandan Odums’ giant graffitistyle murals explore Black life through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X, Muhammad Ali and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Su. 2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231. Map 1, E3; studiobenola.com

VUE ORLEANS

Along with the highest viewpoint in the city, this one-of-akind, 360-degree observatory provides a crash course in local history and culture through a variety of immersive exhibits and interactive experiences. Open daily. 2 Canal St., 504.285.3600. Map 3, E6; vueorleans.com

30 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS MAY 2023
SHOPPING/ATTRACTIONS

WHITNEY PLANTATION

Opened to the public for the first time in its 265-year history, this plantation explores slavery through moving first-person accounts. Tours are offered W-M, 10 am-3 pm. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300; whitneyplantation.org

WOLDENBERG PARK

This grassy riverfront promenade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium to Jackson Square, affords great views of the Mississippi. Map 3, F6; audubonnatureinstitue.org

Museums

CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER

The city’s premier modern art exhibit space features rotation exhibits and also plays host to performances. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6; cacno.org

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION

This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions, along with permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; hnoc.org

LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS

The Louisiana State Museum operates a number of French Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbytère; the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. Open Tu-Su. 504.568.6968. louisianastatemuseum.org

MUSEUM OF THE SOUTHERN JEWISH EXPERIENCE

Three galleries of interactive exhibits examine Jewish life in 13 Bible Belt states, while exploring the broader concept of the great American tapestry. Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. 818 Howard Ave., 504.384.2480. Map 3, B5; msje.org

31
THE GUIDE Attractions

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM

This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits, including the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries.” Open daily, 9 am-5 pm. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6; nationalww2museum.org

NEW ORLEANS AFRICAN

AMERICAN MUSEUM

This repository of African American art, culture and history is located in the Faubourg Tremé, America’s oldest Black neighborhood. Rotating exhibits are featured. Neighborhood tours are also offered. Open ThSu, 11 am-4 pm. 1417-1418 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.218.8254. Map 3, I2; noaam.org

NEW ORLEANS

JAZZ MUSEUM

The world’s largest and most comprehensive collection of jazz-related artifacts offers rotating exhibits and live performances. Open Tu-Su, 9 am-4pm. 400 Esplanade Ave (in the Old U.S. Mint), 504.568.6993. Map 3, I5; nolajazzmuseum.org

NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART

One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free sculpture garden. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-5 pm. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; noma.org

NEW ORLEANS

PHARMACY MUSEUM

This former apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-5 pm. 514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4; pharmacymuseum.org

OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART

This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; ogdenmuseum.org

32 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS MAY 2023 ATTRACTIONS SORRY FOR BEING UNAPOLOGETICALLY CAJUN, IT’S IN OUR BAYOU. DOWNLOAD OUR VISITOR GUIDE AT WWW.LACAJUNBAYOU.COM 949 N. RENDON ST. • OPEN DAILY 3PM - 3AM • 504-488-PALS Please drink responsibly •Your FAVORITE Mid-City Neighborhood Bar •

SAZERAC HOUSE

Explore the evolution of the city’s cocktail culture through a variety of exhibits, while sipping samples along the way. Free. Open Tu-Su, 11 am-6 pm. 101 Magazine St., 504.910.0100. Map 3, E5; sazerachouse.com

ENTERTAINMENT

Cruises & Tours

AIRBOAT ADVENTURES

Dive into Louisiana swamplands on guided, high-speed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Hotel pickup available for an additional fee. 504.689.2005. airboat adventures.com

CANOE & TRAIL ADVENTURES

Explore Lake Pontchartrain the way Native Americans did. Eco-conscious canoe and kayak excursions with certified guides are offered, along with rentals. 504.233.0686. canoeandtrail.com

CITY SIGHTSEEING

This informative doubledecker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again— at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; citysightseeing neworleans.com

CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER

Daily 2.5-hour brunch and Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; creolequeen.com

GATORS AND GHOSTS

This tour group offers a variety of excursions, from swamp explorations to city, plantation and haunted outings. Hotel pickups and drop-offs are available. 888.481.8188. gatorsand ghosts.com

GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS

Gray Line provides a wide array of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, City,

33 THE GUIDE Old Metairie Neighborhood Bar Your Favorite Happy Hour DAILY TIL 7PM WEDNESDAYS Pub Trivia Outdoor Patio SEATING AVAILABLE 2347 Metairie Rd. (504) 831-8637 Open daily at 5pm Attractions/Entertainment
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION S.PETERS IBERVILLE S. RAMPART UNIVERSITY PL. BARONNE CARONDELET ST. CHARLES Canal Place Shopping MAGAZINE POYDRAS JULIA TCHOUPITOULAS PERDIDO UNION COMMON GRAVIER NATCHEZ DECATUR CHARTRES ROYAL BOURBON DAUPHINE BURGUNDY N. RAMPART BIENVILLE CONTI ST . LOUIS TOULOUSE N. PETERS Jackson Brewery 200300400500 RIVERFRONTSTREETCARSteamboat Natchez Gray Line Tour Departures Woldenberg Riverfront Park Algiers Ferry EXCHANGE ALLEY CANAL 100 CAMP O'KEEFE DORSIERE LOYOLA Riverwalk Insecterium 4 5 6 Vieux Carré Police Station HermannGrima House Louisiana Superdome Historic N.O. Collection Aquarium of the Americas & Entergy Imax Theatre Harrah’s Casino Creole Queen Ernest N. Morial Convention Center RIVERFRONT STREETCAR STOPS Esplanade Ursulines Dumaine Toulouse Bienville Canal 1 2 3 4 5 6 4 1205 Decatur St. • 504.322.7440 Shop online at OmenSalem.com CRYSTALS • HERBS BOOKS • SOAPS TAROT DECKS SPELLS VOODOO DOLLS CANDLES • INCENSE Brian Cain & Christian Day PSYCHIC READINGS IN STORE BY PHONE OR ZOOM! SCAN TO BOOK! 1 Call Toll Free: 888-481-8188 Text: 504-226-5433 info@gatorsandghosts.com www.gatorsandghosts.com *Offer valid through July 31, 2023. Offer applies only to full-priced adult ticket orders placed at GatorsAndGhosts.com and must be entered at checkout. This offer is not combinable with other discounts, coupons or offers. Other restrictions may apply. Airboat Swamp Tours Ghost Tours Plantation Tours, City Tours and More! BOOK NOW ONLINE with promo code WHERE to save $3 per ticket* 2 2
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION ESPLANADE ST . PETER ORLEANS ST . ANN DUMAINE ST PHILIP URSULINES GO V. NICHOLLS FrenchMarket Gov.NichollsSt.Wharf Brewery 600700 8009001000 1100 TCAR CHARTRES ROYAL DAUPHINE BURGUNDY ELYSIANFIELDS FRENCHMEN TOURO PAUGER ST.ANTHONY KERLEREC MOONWALK 1000 900800700600500 ESPLANADE Steamboat Natchez DECATUR Mississippi River BARRACKS 1200 MADISON Pe destrian Mall Pe destrian Mall FleaMarket Washington Square Park American Aquatic Garden DECATUR A CHARTRES RO YAL BOURBON DAUPHINE BURGUNDY RAMPART WILKINSON ROW 1 2 3 Jackson Square La tte's Blacksmith Shop Ursuline Convent BeauregardKeyes House Madame John's Legacy Gallier House Mahalia Jackson Theater of the Performing Arts Armstrong Park FRENCH QUAR TER Historic Algiers Point PIRATE’S ALLEY PERE ANTOINE ALLEY N.O. Jazz Museum/ Old U.S. Mint Nightly at 7pm at hex! 1219 Decatur St! or call tour line at 504-667-5570 Book at SpiritsAndSpellsTour.com BOOK NOW! Locally Made Voodoo Dolls • Spells Candles • Incense • Tarot Decks Books • Kitchen Witches • Soaps READINGS IN-PERSON, BY PHONE, or Zoom! 1219 Decatur St. • 504.613.0558 • HexWitch.com And Be Sure to Join Us For Witchery! • Hauntings! • Voodoo! Courtyard Spells! • Witches’ Temple! SCAN TO BOOK A PSYCHIC READING ! ChrisTian Day & brian cain 8 6 4 1 8 6 504.525.2262 | www.vintage329.com vintage barware Follow us: @shopvintage329 | 329 Royal St New Orleans, LA 70130 4 4 5 5

Steamboat, River Cruises—and all possible combinations. Call for tour info and reservations. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; graylineneworleans.com

HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS

Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. hauntedhistorytours.com

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ

The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Departs from Toulouse Street and the Mississippi River. 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; steamboatnatchez.com

NIGHTLIFE

Cocktails

ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75

Fine libations and classic cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.54533. Map 3, F4; arnauds.com

AVENUE PUB

The New Orleans go-to for craft beers, offering the city’s largest available selection of locally produced brews. 1732 St. Charles Ave., 504.586.9243. Map 1, D3; theavenuepub.com

BAR MARILOU

With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisianaccented space is perfect for sipping an aperitif while nibbling on sophisticated bar biteS. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711. Map 3, C5; barmarilou.com

CAFÉ LAFITTE IN EXILE

Billing itself as America’s oldest gay bar, Lafitte’s creates a party with high-energy music, hi-def video screens and a great Bourbon Street balcony. 901 Bourbon St., 504.522.8397. Map 3, H4; lafittes.com

CAROUSEL BAR

Located in the Hotel Monteleone, this bar is an authentic revolving carousel and worth a peek even for teetotalers. 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4; hotelmonteleone.com

CHANDELIER BAR

The Four Seasons’ aptly named lobby lounge is anchored by a dramatic 15,000-crystal centerpiece and award-winning bartender Hadi Ktiri. 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; fourseasons.com/neworleans

HOT TIN

Named after a Tennessee Williams play (the playwright once stayed here), this chic space on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel offers creative cocktails, wine by the glass and amazing views. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D3; hottinbar.com

LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP

This historic cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5; lafittesblacksmithshop.com

MARTINE’S LOUNGE

Tucked in a strip mall in nearby Metairie, this no-frills, no-attitude cocktail/wine bar is an ideal alternative to Bourbon Street’s hustle and jive. Great daily happy hour. 2347 Metairie Rd., Metairie, 504.831.8637. Map 1, C2

PAL’S LOUNGE

Friendly bartenders, strong pours and rotating food pop-ups make this casual, Mid-City neighborhood spot a local favorite. 949 Rendon St., 504.488.7257. Map 1, D2.

PAT O’BRIEN’S

Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; patobriens.com

THE PENTHOUSE CLUB

This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and most popular along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4; penthouseclub neworleans.com

SAZERAC BAR

Thirties elegance and classic quaffs inside the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 7130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; therooseveltneworleans.com

THE WILL & THE WAY

This not-so-hidden gem offers a low-key vibe, well-crafted cocktails and an elevated, easyto-digest bar bites menu. 719 Toulouse St. thewillandthe way.com

Live Entertainment

BLUE NILE

This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. 532 Frenchmen St. Map, J5; bluenilelive.com

THE FILLMORE

Harrah’s Casino ups the city’s live-music ante with this 22,000-sq.-ft. offshoot of the legendary San Francisco venue, which features top-tier national touring acts. 6 Canal St., 504.881.1555. Map 3, E6; fillmorenola.com

HOUSE OF BLUES

The New Orleans branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, mixing big-name tours with homegrown favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; hob.com

THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE

This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. A rotating roster of top-tier local talent is featured. 300 Bourbon St.,

504.553.2299. Map 3, F4; sonesta.com

MAPLE LEAF

A tin roof and a sweaty dance floor make for a quintessential N’awlins experience fueled by funk from Crescent City greats. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3; mapleleafbar.com

MUSIC BOX VILLAGE

At this whimsical wonderland, ramshackle huts double as instruments. The one-of-a-kind open-air venue also hosts live performances. 4557 N. Rampart St., Map 1, E3; musicboxvillage.com

PRESERVATION HALL

Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this beloved nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4; preservationhall.com

REPUBLIC NOLA

One of downtown’s hottest nightspots. Bands, touring and local, share the stage with a late-night dance club. 828 S. Peters St., 504.528.8282. Map 3, C6; republicnola.com

THE SPOTTED CAT

This tiny club has a casual, laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) . 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5; spottedcatmusicclub.com

THREE MUSES

A veritable nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, great small plates and sandwiches and live local music. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5; 3musesnola.com

TIPITINA’S

The legendary Tips offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; tipitinas.com

TOULOUSE THEATRE

This French Quarter music venue takes its name from a former performance space in the same location. Local acts share billing with visiting headliners. 615 Toulouse St., 504.571.9771. Map 3, G5; toulousetheatre.com

36 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS MAY 2023 ENTERTAINMENT/NIGHTLIFE

MAP 1: NEW ORLEANS METRO & JEFFERSON PARISH

MAP 2: SOUTH LOUISIANA

37 THE GUIDE
Maps
NEW ORLEANS
Paris Rd Downman Rd TERRYTOWN Gretna 10 510 10 10 10 10 610 1 mi 2 km 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 4 A B C D E F G A B C D E F G Lake Pontchartrain Lake Maurepas Gulf of Mexico Gulf of Mexico Atchafalaya Bay Vermilion Bay Cailou Bay Terrebonne Bay Barataria Bay Abita Springs Folsom Grand Isle Lafitte Napoleonville Buras-Triumph Port Sulphur Covington Franklin Mandeville Plaquemine Houma New Iberia Slidell Abbeville Baker Hammond Laplace Thibodaux Metairie Kenner Lafayette New Orleans Baton Rouge Crowley Eunice Opelousas Venice Raceland 1 1 1 1 1 1 10 13 13 13 14 14 14 14 16 16 18 18 18 182 182 19 20 21 21 22 22 23 23 24 25 26 26 27 29 30 31 3127 35 35 39 41 56 57 70 82 82 91 165 165 167 167 190 190 190 190 190 51 61 61 61 71 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 10 mi 10 km 10 10 10 10 10 10 49 55 55 12 10 59 12 310 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 4 A B C D E F G A B C D E F G

MAP 3: CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT & FRENCH QUARTER

NEW ORLEANS MAP NEW ORLEANS Wilkinson Cancer Survivors Park Champions Square HG HA HP RE EB RA HF SJ DT ST QC RC SC BL LH IC HI AC HT BI LP DR VH RO WG HD IN LQ PL EJ WC WO OE WQ BW WH JW HW PM RZ AS WQ ML MD SM FP OO OV MA RS PC HF HC CO DO DI LM MR BH FI CM LE LW HR HL FS CN MW SH OR HY AH MZ RH HS NO CA JU HE HH St Cathedral National WWII Museum Caesars Superdome Smoothie King Center Civic Theatre Joy Theater Orpheum Theater Canal St Ferry Landing CanalStFerry La. Supreme Court Building Canal Place Julia St. Cruise Terminal & Parking Garage Poydras St. Wharf Girod St. Wharf New Orleans International Cruise Terminal Toulouse St. Wharf LSU Health Sciences Center Riverwalk Outlets Riverfront Streetcar Line St.CharlesStreetcarLine Canal Streetcar Line LoyolaStreetcarLine Rampart Streetcar Line 10 N.O. Pelicans 1/8 mi 200 m 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 A B C D E F G 8 A B C D E F G
38 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS MAY 2023

AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4

AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5

AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4

AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4

BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4

LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3

BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5

BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5

BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5

BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4

CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6

CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4

CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F3

CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7

DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3

CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4

DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3

DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5

DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4

EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5

EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7

FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4

FS Four Seasons, 2 Canal St., 434-5100 E6

FR The Frenchmen, 417 Frenchmen St., 688-2900 J5

HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4

HQ Hampton Inn French Quarter Market, 501 Elysian Fields Ave., 381-0041 J5

HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 B8

HR Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6

HH Higgins Hotel & Conference Center, 1000 Magazine St., 528-1941 B6

HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4

HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7

HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7

SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4

FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5

HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3

HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3

HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5

HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4

HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3

HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5

HF Hotel Fontenot, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6

LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4

MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4

PP Hotel Peter & Paul, 2317 Burgundy St., 365-5200 K5

PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5

SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4

SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3

HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4

HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7

HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3

IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4

IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5

JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4

JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2

LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5

LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5

LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6

LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4

LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6

MZ Maison de la Luz, 546 Carondelet St., 814.7720 C5

MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3

MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4

MW Marriott Warehouse Arts District, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 577-1520 C7

ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4

90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4

NO NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4

OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 F3

OR Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 D7

OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4

OE One11 Hotel, 111 Iberville St., 699.8100 E6

PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5

PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4

PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4

QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5

RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6

PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4

RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6

RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4

RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3

RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5

RF Royal Frenchmen, 700 Frenchmen St., 619-9660 J4

RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4

RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4

SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5

ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5

SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7

VH Virgin Hotels New Orleans, 550 Baronne St., 833-791-7700 C4

WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4

WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5

WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5

WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6

WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 D4

WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

THE GUIDE 39 Maps SpainSt StRochAveFranklinAve RoyalSt DauphineStBurgundySt NRampartSt MaraisSt UrquartStNVillerreStNRobertsonSt StClaudeAve Madison Crescent Park PD BO 90 AJ CY CL HQ PP PV LK HM FR SP FS RF  Louis Cathedral N.O. Jazz Museum/ Old U.S. Mint BK Historic House French Market Gov. Nicholls St. Wharf Riverfront Streetcar Line 10 Street Direction French Quarter HM Hotel KEY Jazzy Passes 1 day - $3 3 day - $9 31 day - 55 Ride RTA buses and streetcars as much as you’d like. Riverfront - $1.25 St. Charles - $1.25 Magazine - $1.25 Canal St - $1.25 Loyola - $1.25 Rampart - $1.25 Transit Routes H I J 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 H I J K K

PARTING SHOT

Light This Way

Those brass gas lanterns you see ickering throughout the French Quarter? Watch them being made by hand, as they have been since 1945, at the Bevolo Gas Light Museum & Shop (p. 28).

 ©REBECCA TODD/NEWORLEANS.COM
40 WHERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLEANS MAY 2023
CHANEL vintage collection 329 Royal St New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 525-2262 | WWW.VINTAGE329.COM Follow us shopvintage329
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