Where Magazine New Orleans April 23

Sound Advice: Fests Forecast

Feasting Near the Festivals

“Moulin Rouge: The Musical”

DISCOVER HOW THE WAR THAT CHANGED THE WORLD CHANGED THE PEOPLE WHO LIVED IT.

Picasso

Mr. Brainwash

Jose Basso

Rembrandt

Out & About

French Quarter Fest, the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and more musical high notes.

Music to Your Mouth

Had your fill of standand-eat festival food? Grab a table at one of these fest-adjacent sitdown spots.

(FROM TOP) ©STEVE RAPPORT/(MOSTLY) ROCK ’N’ ROLL GALLERY; ©BALLIN PR; ©JAMES OWEN

Preservation Hall Jazz Band pianist Kyle Roussel, from the (Mostly) Rock ’n’ Roll Gallery.

©STEVE RAPPORT

12

Longtime British rock photographer Steve Rapport nds a new muse: New Orleans.

VISIT THE HISTORIC FRENCH MARKET DISTRICT

Long before French explorers founded New Orleans in 1718, Native Americans had established a bustling trading post on the site of what is now known as the French Market. e nation’s oldest public market continues to thrive today, with a variety of fresh produce vendors, eateries, ea market stalls, stand-alone shops and popular annual events, such as the Creole Tomato Festival. In addition to the open-air market, the French Market District includes the Upper Pontalba Buildings surrounding Jackson Square (the rst apartment complex in the U.S.), the Shops of the Colonnade and the riverfront Crescent Park. For a full lineup of o erings and free events, visit frenchmarket.org

VENDOR SPOTLIGHT

Dutch Alley

Artist’s Co-op

Tress Turner is a self-taught New Orleans artist whose artwork is a kaleidoscope of mixed media, found objects, recycled wood and welded metals. With Tress’ talented skills and imagination, she turns the kaleidoscope into a visual translation of Southern culture. Each piece is a one-off visceral creation.

MARKET MERCH

NOLA Foot Candy in the Upper Pontalba Building on Jackson Square is proud to offer a curated collection of high-quality designer shoes from cutting-edge underground and established designers, imported globally from all over the world. Offering something for every footwear a cionado, shop NOLA Foot Candy for bold and trendy styles.

WHAT’S HAPPENING

May 13

Asian Pacific American Heritage Festival

Co-hosted with the Asian Paci c American Society, festivities will feature cultural performances, food vendors and community organizations.

June 10 & 11

Creole Tomato Festival

Celebrate the bounty of Southeast Louisiana at the 37th annual Creole Tomato Festival featuring inspired food offerings and anticipated Bloody Mary Market!

© ZACK SMITH TOMATO FEST: ZACK SMITH

Spring—and music—is in the air this month, with the outdoor Wednesday at the Square concert series, French Quarter Fest and New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival providing a wide range of must-catch acts, from Lizzo to Mavis Staples, Tank and the Bangas to Irma omas, Ed Sheeran to Big Freedia. Add Stevie Nicks at the beginning of the month, along with jam-packed lineups at venues citywide toward the end, and this issue’s “Music Focused” cover really resonates

e French Quarter Festival hits 40 this year. To celebrate, we sat down with one of the neighborhood’s newest business owners, Steve Rapport, at his (Mostly) Rock ’n’ Roll Gallery. Shooting mainly in black-and-white, Rapport captured the colorful British rock scene throughout the 1980s and early ’90s. ough this will be his rst French Quarter Fest (he moved here last year a few weeks after), with his gallery just a block from legendary Preservation Hall, he’s already thoroughly emersed himself in New Orleans music culture—and has the images to prove it.

Elsewhere in this issue, food writer Lorin Gaudin sounds o on great dining options near the fests. Catering to tastes both classic (remoulade, gumbo, etou ée) and contemporary (curried red beans, duck pastrami, craw sh sausage), as with the festivals, you’ll nd something for almost every area of interest (African, Creole, Vietnamese).

ere’s a reason music lovers descend on New Orleans each April—it’s everywhere! Get out and get your groove on.

Cindy Brennan

PUBLISHER

Lois Sutton, 504.522.6468, lois.sutton@morris.com

EDITOR

Doug Brantley

ART DIRECTOR

Hadley Kincaid

CONTRIBUTORS

Jenny Adams, Shawn Fink, Lorin Gaudin

ACCOUNT MANAGERS Stephanie Cantrell 504.522.6468, stephanie.cantrell@morris.com Vincent Tortorich, 504.522.6468, vincent.tortorich@morris.com

A PUBLICATION OF MCC MAGAZINES, LLC a division of Morris Communications Company, LLC 735 Broad Street, Augusta, GA 30901

MCC MAGAZINES, LLC

PRESIDENT Tina Battock

VICE PRESIDENT Scott Ferguson DIRECTOR — MANUFACTURING & PRODUCTION

Sherry Brown

ACCOUNTING MANAGER

Veronica Brooks

CIRCULATION BUSINESS MANAGER

Michelle Rowe

MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS COMPANY, LLC

CHAIRMAN

William S. Morris III

CEO Craig S. Mitchell

WHAT’S HAPPENING THE LINEUP

MOULIN ROUGE: THE MUSICAL

APRIL 5-16

Decadent, salacious, sensual: New Orleans in a nutshell, right? Which makes the Saenger Theatre a natural stop for this Tony-winning adaptation of Buz Luhrmann’s Oscar-winning film, set in the legendary Parisian cabaret. With its lavish scenery, stunning costumes and updated score (which, in addition to “Lady Marmalade,” includes Beyonce’s “Single Ladies,” Lorde’s “Royals" and Adele’s “Rolling in the Deep,” among many others), the traveling Broadway production is a feast for the senses. But beneath all the glitz is a solid love story sure to leave you swooning. saengernola.com

GREAT THINGS THIS MONTH

Knowing Who We Are All Month

The Ogden Museum marks its 20th anniversary with its largest exhibit to date, featuring works celebrating the evolution and diversity

of contemporary Southern art encompassing all ve oors. ogdenmuseum.org

New Orleans Pelicans

April 1-7

The Pels close out the season with four home games at the Smoothie King Center, starting with the Los Angeles Clippers (April 1) and ending with the New York Knicks (April 7). For a full lineup, visit smoothiekingcenter.com.

Stevie Nicks

April 2

Grab that gypsy shawl and twirl your way to the Smoothie King Center to catch the twice-inducted

Rock and Roll Hall of Famer when she pulls into town on her latest solo tour. smoothiekingcenter.com

Wednesday at the Square

April 5, 12, 19 & 26

The free springtime concert series continues midweek throughout the month at Lafayette Square (St. Charles and Lafayette), with performances beginning at 5 pm. April 5: Mia Borders and The Quickening; April 12: The Surfers and Trumpet Ma a; April 19: The Iceman Special and Zita; April 26: George Porter Jr. & The Runnin' Parders with Joy Clark. ylcwats.com

Easter Parades

April 9

Bunny hop around the Quarter. The Historic French Quarter Easter Parade kicks off at 9:45 am from Antoine’s (713 St. Louis St.), followed by the Chris Owens Easter Parade at 1 pm. Finish with the bonnet-turning Gay Easter Parade at 4:30 pm.

Zurich Classic

April 17-23

World-class golf greats swing into town for the region’s premier PGA tournament. The weeklong event takes place at the TPC Louisiana course on the city’s west bank, with free admission April 17-18. zurichclassic.com

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©SHAWN FINK; ©MATTHEW MURPHY FOR MURPHYMADE; ©MICHELLE MARTIN

"MOULIN ROUGE: THE MUSICAL"

WEDNESDAY AT THE SQUARE

GAY EASTER PARADE

Talking Pictures

STEVE RAPPORT WITH THE CLASH CONTACT SHEET

Photographer Steve Rapport nds the magic in music—and in the moment—again Doug Brantley

Stepping into the French Quarter’s recently opened (Mostly) Rock ’n’ Roll Gallery is like being transported back to the 1980s and early ’90s via a magical musical time machine. ere’s Joe Strummer of e Clash in 1981 at e Lyceum in London. Motorhead’s Lemmy Kilmister reclining in his manager’s o ce chair in 1982. Annie Lennox during lming of the Eurythmics’ 1983 “Here Comes the Rain Again” video. Freddie Mercury, Paul McCartney, Bono and George Michael from 1985’s Live Aid concert at Wembley Stadium.

If these walls could talk…and they do—through the man who captured these musical moments on lm.

“I think people like the stories,” says photographer Steve Rapport, who you’ll nd entertaining visitors most ursdays through Mondays at his small St. Peter Street studio (mostlyrocknroll.com). Take Rod Stewart’s “Every Picture Tells a Story,” for example.

“Even that story is a story,” Rapport notes. “I met Joe Strummer in Hollywood, and we went out for a drink at Barney’s Beanery. It was a drinking game where you had to name the rst album you ever bought, and Joe’s was ‘Every Picture Tells Story,’ which was mine as well.”

e London native spent more than a decade chronicling the British rock scene before moving to California in 1992, where the “recovering photogra-

pher” packed away his camera and turned his focus to the martial arts, selling his iconic images on the side. at is, until New Orleans came calling in late 2021. “I got a call out of the blue from someone named Ben, who wanted to buy a limited-edition print of a contact sheet of e Clash. He said, ‘I’d also like to buy the David Bowie picture, the one with the blue face, for my friends Win and Régine.’ And my ears pricked up: Win [Butler] and Régine [Chassagne]? I’ve loved Arcade Fire since their rst album.

“ en we started chatting, talking about music, e Clash, Arcade Fire and that he lived in New Orleans, and I said, “I’m coming there in March to see Poguetry in Motion—which is Spider Stacy and Cait O’Riordan, who used to be in e Pogues, who I shot back in the ’80s, and the Lost Bayou Ramblers from Lafayette. And Ben says, ‘While you’re here, do you want to shoot my band…the Preservation Hall Jazz Band?’”

“Ben” would be Ben Ja e, whose parents, Allan and Sandra, founded Preservation Hall in 1961. And so began a fast friendship and a series of events that would come to exemplify the city for Rapport.

“ e day I arrived we went out to dinner, then wandered by the Marigny Studios,” he recalls. “ e next day at Preservation Hall I met the band members, fell in love with them, the place, the whole vibe, the magic. And I roamed around the streets with my

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: THE COVER OF DAVID BOWIE'S 1985 "LOVING THE ALIEN" SINGLE, THE LIVE AID CONCERT AND U2'S BONO IN DUBLIN IN 1982

eyes bulging, thinking—this place is just so magical

“ e following night I took pictures of Poguetry. en Ben mentioned the Toulouse eatre, which was just opening, and that Arcade Fire was playing there over the weekend and wanted me to shoot the show. I was supposed to leave on Friday—but you can’t leave New Orleans—so I postponed my ight. I remember walking down Esplanade, looking at houses and saying to myself, ‘I’m thinking about moving here.’ By the time I ew back to California, I was saying, ‘I’m moving to New Orleans.’”

He did soon after, purchasing a place in the Bywater neighbor-

hood and returning in time for Jazzfest. “I landed around 4 pm and went to Lafayette Square, where the Lost Bayou Ramblers were performing at Wednesday at the Square. And I had one of those New Orleans experiences, which turns out to be a daily event. I’m out in the park, with the band playing, and began talking with a woman who had moved here a few months prior and had gone to see the Arcade Fire show. I showed her one of my shots of Win at the lip of the stage, and she said, ‘Oh, that’s me in the picture!’ I started to learn that that’s just New Orleans magic. It happens all the time here, every day, in incredible ways.” at magic is re ected in

Rapport’s adjunct jazz gallery, where he mounts his more recent portraiture of local music greats— Irma omas, Ivan Neville, John Boutté, Kermit Ru ns, Maggie Koerner, Preservation Hall Jazz Band members. e growing collection is evidence of the photographer once again nding his musical muse and refocusing his career.

“It’s way more interesting than it was a year ago,” Rapport says, “because it’s got a whole New Orleans story now. Before, it was just this rock stu . But now it’s come full circle. It’s like in jiu-jitsu: After your white belt, you get your black belt, then after your black belt, you keep going. You start anew, and the story continues.”

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JOHN BOUTTÉ PERFORMING AT THE ALLEN TOUSSAINT TRIBUTE AT TIPITINA'S IN 2022, IRMA THOMAS AT PRESERVATION HALL'S 60TH ANNIVERSARY SHOW AT THE ORPHEUM AND ARCADE FIRE AT THE TOULOUSE THEATRE

Out & About

What’s new, now and not to be missed

FRENCH QUARTER FESTIVAL

What started four decades ago as a free event designed to bring locals back to the Quarter following the chaotic World’s Fair now draws more than 825,000 music lovers from around the globe. With more than 1,700 area musicians performing everything from jazz (John Boutté) and funk (Tank and the Bangas) to soul (Irma omas) and bounce (Big Freedia) on 20 stages spread from Jackson Square to the riverfront to the New Orleans Jazz Museum, it’s easy to understand why. Add on the “world’s largest jazz brunch” served up by dozens of food and drink vendors, along with a kicko parade and reworks nale, and you’ve got the makings for one amazing 40th anniversary party April 13-16. fq .org

NEW ORLEANS JAZZ & HERITAGE FESTIVAL

Lizzo, Ed Sheeran and the Tedeschi Trucks Band headline the opening weekend of Jazzfest April 28-30, joined by an additional 70plus great acts each day at the New Orleans Fair Grounds. In between performances, graze your way around the multiple food stations, scope out the numerous art and craft o erings and explore the Cultural Exchange Pavilion, which

this year spotlights Puerto Rican music, heritage and traditions. Pace yourself: e following week brings four more days of musical mustsees, including Jon Batiste, Kane Brown, H.E.R. and Tom Jones. nojazzfest.com

MORE, MORE, MORE e music keeps going even after the festivals shut down for the day. A few noteworthy after-party performances: Apr. 13: Big Freedia with the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra at the Orpheum eater (orpheumnola.com); April 28: e LPO backs Lettuce and Tower of Power at the Saenger (saengernola.com); April 28: e Revivalists at the Fillmore ( llmorenola. com); April 28: e Soul Rebels with GZA at the Toulouse eatre (toulousetheatre.com); April 28-29: Ween at the Orpheum (orpheumnola.com); April 29: Trombone Shorty’s Tremé reauxdown at the Saenger (saengernola.com); April 29: Jazzmeia Horn with the New Orleans Jazz Orchestra at the New Orleans Jazz Market (thenojo. com); April 29: Cimafunk at the Civic (civicnola.com); April 28-30: Midnight Preserves at Preservation Hall (preservationhall.com); April 29-30: moe. at Tipitina’s (tipitinas.com).

(FROM TOP) ©ZACK SMITH (2); BALLIN PR

FROM TOP: FRENCH QUARTER FEST, THE NEW ORLEANS JAZZ & HERITAGE FESTIVAL AND BIG FREEDIA

Music to Your Mouth

Seven spots for fueling/cooling your dancing feet, pre- or post-fest

Lorin Gaudin

New Orleans is the most delicious place on earth. Fight me! This month, festival season begins in earnest, and while some may quibble with me about the focal point, in my opinion, the French Quarter Festival and Jazzfest are certainly food centric. Go, eat, rest, repeat. And when you’re looking for a sit-down, table-service festival experience, we’ve got all that jazz—both traditional and contemporary.

FRENCH QUARTER FESTIVAL (TRADITIONAL)

ARNAUD’S

Brunch and dinner Creole classics are this grande dame’s signature. Kick off brunch with homemade Creole Cream Cheese Evangeline—Louisianastyle “yogurt” sprinkled with

sugar, fruit and granola. Or start every meal with the city’s iconic remoulade, known as Shrimp Arnaud. Then it’s time for the unique Eggs Fauteaux (poached eggs and smoked pompano on English muf ns with dill-spiked Hollandaise). Dinner is obvious: Oysters Arnaud (one each of all their baked oysters), wild mushroom-dressed Veal Tournedos Chantal with risotto and Lemon Meringue Cheesecake. C’est tous. arnaudsrestaurant.com

MR. B’S BISTRO

There are several things one must eat at Mr. B’s: Barbecued

Shrimp, Gumbo Ya Ya and Jumbo

Lump Crabcake. That said, chef Vincent Sciarotta’s lunch, brunch and dinner menus are lled with tradition and must-haves. Evidence the Panéed Veal with fettuccine Alfredo, Wood Grilled Fish with pecan popcorn rice and Fried Oysters & Eggs Florentine (brunch only). Do yourself a favor and save room for dessert. Two words: Bread Pudding—a decadent Brennan family recipe made with local French bread, rich custard and a hefty dose of Irish whiskey sauce. mrbsbistro.com

COURT OF TWO SISTERS

Live jazz brunch seven days a week? You bet! Chef Chad Penedo’s buffet food nery includes classic grillades and grits, eggs Benedict, biscuits, gumbo, etouffée, red beans and more. At dinner, start with the bold Jalapeno Bacon-Wrapped Duck Breast followed by a classic, cold, crisp Wedge Salad draped in bacon, thin-sliced onion, blue cheese crumbles and blue cheese dressing. Choosing an entrée is tough—they’re all hunger-inducing—but the siren call is Blackened Gulf Fish with Creole shrimp fried rice and pineapple beurre blanc. courtoftwosisters.com

ARNAUD’S

LEFT: THE COURT OF TWO SISTERS’ WISTERIA-WRAPPED COURTYARD; ABOVE: CHICKEN-AND-ANDOUILLE GUMBO YA YA FROM MR. B’S

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) ©DENNY CULBERT; ©MR. B’S; ©COURT OF TWO SISTERS

JAZZFEST (CONTEMPORARY)

ADDIS

A new, bigger space means more tables and opportunities to dive into Prince Tej’s familyrecipe Ethiopian stews of lentils, vegetables, chicken, beef or lamb. Eat by hand, scooping up the works with torn pieces of savory, pancake-like injera. Choose to eat vegetarian, carnivore or omnivore, as you like. We’re partial to the raw beef “kitfo” with spices, greens and fresh cheese called “ayib.” For something extra special, check out the Traditional Coffee Roasting Ceremony (for four people). addisnola.com

MOPHO

Chef Paul Chell brings his Southeast Asian travel experi -

ences to the table with contemporized local dishes; think Curry Red Beans and Rice or the house turtle soup spiked with chili paste, Szechuan pepper and a garnish of ginger-infused sherry and preserved citrus “pickle.” There’s also Thursday’s Indonesian Fried Chicken or the MoPho Queso that comes with aky roti, shrimp chips and fried pork skins for dunking. mophonola.com

ROSEDALE

Chef Susan Spicer’s charming restaurant, housed in a renovated cottage, offers both indoor and outdoor dining. The dishes we’re stuck on include the Fried Chicken with greens and baked macaroni and the Duck Pastrami Sandwich, which we make “Reuben” with the addition of Gruyère. At brunch, Rosedale’s

Huevos Rancheros are sublime. Sweets-eaters, there’s a Warm Chocolate Espresso Brownie topped with coffee-and-chicory ice cream, a caramel drizzle and cocoa nibs. Just sayin’. rosedalerestaurant.com

VAUCRESSON’S SAUSAGE COMPANY

As third generation sausage makers, Vance Vaucresson and family are beloved for their food contribution to the local landscape. Vaucresson packaged sausages (Creole Hot, Italian, Craw sh and Jerk Chicken) are a must, but nowadays hungry folks can walk in and take a seat at the counter for platters of sausages, Miss Julie’s homemade mustards and fat sausage po’boys. There is no wrong order here. vaucresson sausage.com

FROM LEFT) ©KAT KIMBALL PHOTOGRAPHY; ©VIETA COLLINS; ©JAMES OWENS

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: AN ADDIS SAMPLER, MOPHO’S CRISPY CHICKEN VINDALOO SANDWICH AND ROSEDALE’S FRIED CHICKEN WITH SMOTHERED GREENS, MAC ’N’ CHEESE AND TABASCO HONEY

FRENCH FINISH

Lemon madeleines with crème anglaise from MaMou (p. 20). As of press time, the following listings were accurate and up to date but subject to change; call ahead to verify hours.

DINING

Central Business/ Warehouse District

CHEMIN À LA MER

Louisiana.French for “path to the sea,” chef Donald Link’s gorgeous Four Seasons space offers incredible views of the Mississippi, a well-stocked raw bar and top-tier steaks. B, L D (daily). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; cheminalamer.com

COCHON

Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and housecured meats. L, D (daily). 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; cochonrestaurant.com

COMPÈRE LAPIN

Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia, chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as blackened pig ears with smoked aioli and curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi. D (nightly). 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6; comperelapin.com

DESI VEGA’S STEAKHOUSE

Steaks. Sure, there are standout appetizers (baconwrapped, crab-stuffed shrimp) and killer sides (andouillecrawfish mac ’n’ cheese), but the big get here is the sizable USDA prime beef steaks cooked to perfection. L (MFr), D (Tu-Sa). 628 St. Charles Ave., 504.523.7600. Map 3, B7; desivegasteaks.com

DOMENICA

Italian Out-of-the-norm antipasti (roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics. Mangia, mangia! L, D (daily). 123 Baronne St., 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3; domenicarestaurant.com

EMERIL’S

Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship restaurant sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, this is where

the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. D (Tu-Sa). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com

GRAND ISLE

Seafood. This comfy seafood house boasts such standouts as smoked fried oysters, hot crab dip and other Southern favorites. Grab a seat at the bar for shrimp by the pound and cold beer from taps encased in ice. L (F-Su), D (W-Su). 575 Convention Center Blvd., 504.520.8530. Map 3, D6; grandislerestaurant.com

MAYPOP

Eclectic. Chef Michael Gulotta (MoPho) expands on his Asianfusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrialterrarium vibe. Dig into fried oysters with bourbon-soy ailoi or go spicy with coconut braised lamb. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4; maypoprestaurant.com

MERIL

International. Emeril

Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Korean short ribs to Mexican street corn. L (F-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com/meril

MISS RIVER

Louisiana. Chef Alon Shaya’s culinary love letter to the city includes renditions of local classics like the muffuletta and oyster patty, along with dramatic share-with-the-table whole fried chicken and clay pot dirty rice with duck. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; missrivernola.com

PÊCHE

Seafood. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole fish, you can’t go wrong. L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; pecherestaurant.com

RESTAURANT AUGUST

Contemporary. Fine dining at its finest. The surroundings are elegant, and the food is spectacular, combining European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. D (nightly). 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5; restaurantaugust.com

SEAWORTHY

Seafood This chic offshoot of New York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West Coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. D (nightly). 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5; seaworthynola.com

TRUE FOOD KITCHEN

Eclectic. Backed by powerhouses Dr. Andrew Weil and Oprah Winfrey, there’s everything to love about this “health-driven” restaurant, from the edamame dumplings to the ancient grains bowl and grass-fed burgers. L, D (daily). 801 St. Charles Ave., 504.558.3900. Map 3, B5; truefoodkitchen.com

French Quarter

ANTOINE’S

Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure with rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. L (M, Th-F), D (M, Th-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4; antoines.com

ARNAUD’S

Creole. In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of its many famous dishes. D (W-Sa); Br (Su). 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; arnaudsrestaurant.com

BAYONA

Contemporary. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually

surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and lemon-caper sautéed sweetbreads. L (Th-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3; bayona.com

BRENNAN’S

Creole. The legendary establishment continues more than seven decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (Th-M). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4; brennansneworleans.com

CAFÉ BEIGNET

Coffee. Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun classics. Open daily. 311 Bourbon St., 504.500.4370. Map 3, F4; 334 Royal St. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St. Map 3, F5; 622 Canal St.; Map 3, E5; cafebeignet.com

CAFÉ DU MONDE

Coffee. In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a mustdo. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. Open daily. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; cafedumonde.com

COURT OF TWO SISTERS

Creole. No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with Southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. Br, D (daily). 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4; courtoftwosisters.com

CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE

Louisiana. The French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring microbrews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the pretzel with beer cheese, German sausage and baby back ribs with sugarcane glaze. L, D (daily). 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, G5; crescentcitybrewhouse.com

DIAN XIN

Chinese. Dim sum craving? Satisfy it here. Steamed pork dumplings, crab-and-crawfish bao, salt-and-pepper squid; the menu goes on and on.

L, D (Tu-Su). 1218 Decatur St., 504.266.2828. Map 3, I4; 620 Conti St., 504.372.3372. Map 3, F4; dianxinnnola.com; dianxinonconti.com

DORIS METROPOLITAN

Steaks. A stunning steakhouse and butcher shop with superior quality dry-aged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. L (F), D (Tu-Su). 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4; dorismetropolitan.com

FRENCH TOAST

Breakfast. Breakfast is the get at this popular French Quarter spot. There are sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta). B, L (daily). 1035 Decatur St., 504.300.5518. Map 3,H5; toastneworleans.com

GALATOIRE’S

Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s has been a gravity center of New Orleans. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. L, D (W-Su). 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4; galatoires.com

GUMBO SHOP

Creole. Housed in a circa1794 building, the Gumbo Shop features traditional and contemporary Creole cuisine, including several types of gumbo, étouffée, jambalaya and other Louisiana favorites. L, D (daily). 630 St. Peter St., 504.525.1486. Map 3, G4; gumboshop.com

GW FINS

Seafood. The local obsession with seafood is taken to global heights here, with fresh fish flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. D (nightly). 808

Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4; gwfins.com

JEWEL OF THE SOUTH

Contemporary. This hidden gem pays homage to a 19thcentury restaurant of the same name, with retro cocktails (brandy crustas, French 75s) and an ever-changing, seasonal menu. D (W-Su); Br (Su). 1026 St. Louis St., 504.265.8816. Map 3, F3; jewelnola.com

JUSTINE

French. Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is both classic and contemporary in design, but the menu is fullon French: onion soup gratinée, escargot, steak frites. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533. Map 3, E4; justinenola.com

KILLER POBOYS

Contemporary. This small joint has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chefcrafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw. L, D (W-M). 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St. (in the Erin Rose bar), 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4; killerpoboys.com

MAMOU

French. A modern French bistro with Creole flavors. Cooked salmon tucked into brioche beignets, red beans cassoulet topped with slices of head cheese, roasted chicken with garlicky parley potatoes. For dessert? Lemon madeleines. D (Th-Su). 942 N. Rampart St., 504.381.4557. Map 3, H3; mamounola.com

MR. B’S BISTRO

Louisiana. Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual powerlunch scene. Must-gets include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding with Irish whiskey sauce. L (W-Sa), D (W-Su); Br (Su). 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4; mrbsbistro.com

NAPOLEON HOUSE

Louisiana. Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its

share of French ambiance. The café serves seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas. L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; napoleonhouse.com

PALM & PINE

Eclectic. This progressive restaurant explores the wider definition of the South, including Latin America. There’s hot sausage carimañolas and duck tamales or dig into closer-tohome flavors of turkey neck gumbo. D (W-M); Br (Su). 308 N. Rampart St., 504.814.6200. Map 3, F3; palmandpinenola.com

SAINT JOHN

Creole. Creole classics reenvisioned through a contemporary lens. Hot shrimp remoulade, pork belly cassoulet, bacon fat-seared duck with satsuma glaze— everything old is delicious again. Br, D (W-M). 1117 Decatur St., 504.435.5151. Map 3, I5; saintjohnnola.com

THAIHEY NOLA

Thai. Vibrant, modern Thai cuisine. Start with saltylemony fried okra, followed by the red curry frog legs and Louisiana crab fried rice. A full vegan menu is available as well. L, D (W-M). 308 Decatur St., 504.354.8646. Map 3, F5; thaiheynola.com

TUJAGUE’S

Creole. A historic restaurant with a new location, new look and newly reconstructed, five-course table d’hôte menu. Choose from the classic set menu or go á la carte with contemporary dishes. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 429 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, G5; tujaguesrestaurant.com

Garden District/ Lower Garden District

COMMANDER’S PALACE

Creole. Chef Meg Bickford carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in an elegant atmosphere. L (Th-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (SaSu). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; commanderspalace.com

COQUETTE

French What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stacked with stellar standouts. D (nightly). 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4; coquettenola.com

GRIS-GRIS

Louisiana. Chef Eric Cook whips up elevated New Orleans standards (oyster-and-caviar po’ boys, sugarcane-seared duck) from his hopping open kitchen.The adjacent Gris-Gris to Go Go offers grab-andgo items. Br, D (W-M). 1800 Magazine St., 504.272.0241. Map 1, D4; grisgrisnola.com

TURKEY AND THE WOLF

Eclectic. Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, collard green melts. Don’t pass on the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. L (W-M). 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4; turkeyandthewolf.com

Marigny/Bywater

ALMA

Honduran. Chef Melissa Araujo’s menu reflects her Honduran heritage: savory orroz con pollo, baked plantains with refried pintos and housemade crema, Central American sweetbreads to go with Colombian coffee. Br (daily). 800 Louisa St., 504.381.5877. Map 1, E3;eatalmanola.com

BACCHANAL

Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L, D (daily). 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3; bacchanalwine.com

THE COUNTRY CLUB

Louisiana. Known for its swimming pool, this longpopular Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crab beignets, truffle mac ‘n’ cheese) or full-on entrees, such

as duck cassoulet. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; thecountryclubneworleans.com

N7

French. This quiet, tucked-away bistro is named for France’s Route Nationale 7. Escargot, steamed mussels, steak au poivre, duck a l’orange, a lovely wine list and fine service equate to total charm. D (M-Sa); Br (FSa). 1117 Montegut St. Map 1, E3; n7nola.com

PALADAR 511

Contemporary. California

cooking New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5; paladar511.com

Mid-City

ADDIS NOLA

African. Eating with your hands is encouraged here. Spongy injera flatbread is perfect for pinching bits of doro wat (chicken), spicy stewed lentils and mitmita-dusted kitfo (beef) with fresh cottage cheese. D (W-M). 2514 Bayou Rd., 504.218.5321. Map 1, E2; addisnola.com

BLUE OAK BBQ

Barbecue. Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spareribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. If the barbecued pork egg rolls make a menu appearance, get them. L, D (daily). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3; blueoakbbq.com

TOUPS’ MEATERY

Cajun. Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. L (MF), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3; toupsmeatery.com

ZASU

Seafood. James Beard Awardwinning chef Sue Zemanick goes

coastal at her intimate Mid-City space: grilled baby octopus, tuna crudo, salmon with caramelized sauerkraut and dill spaetzle.

D (M, W-Sa). 127 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.267.3233. Map 1, D2; zasunola.com

UPTOWN

DAKAR NOLA

African. Senegal-born chef Serigne Mbaye’s tasting menu restaurant combines the flavors of Africa and Louisiana, served in seven courses at a single 7 pm seating. D (W-Sa). 3814 Magazine St., 504493-9396. Map 1, D4; dakarnola.com

LA PETITE GROCERY

French. An intimate bistro with gas lighting and pressedtin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. L (Th-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4; lapetitegrocery.com

MISTER MAO

Eclectic. The food here is as fun as the quirky interior. The “inauthentic” globally inspired menu swings from escargot Wellington to octopus with mango and cerveza jelly. D (ThM); Br (Su). 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.345.2056. Map 1, D4; mistermaonola.com

SABA

Mediterranean. Chef Alon Shaya provides a taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as harissa chicken with laurel leaves. L (F), D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine St., 504.324.7770. Map 1, D4; eatwithsaba.com

WISHING TOWN BAKERY & CAFÉ

Chinese. Hong Kong-style dumplings and super-cool baked goods are on tap here. Order from the long list of dumplings, noodles, salads and soups. L, D (daily). 802 Nashville Ave., 504.533.9166; wishingtown.com

SHOPPING

Art Galleries & Antiques

ANTIEAU GALLERY

Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her French Quarter gallery. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. 719 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, G4; antieaugallery.com

BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS

The vast majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. Contemporary designs are featured at 304 Royal, while 316 Royal is home to a lighting museum where you’ll see lamps being made by hand. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 304 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; 316-318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; bevolo.com

CRAIG TRACY GALLERY

The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the famed bodypainter enhances with eye-tricking imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; craigtracy.com

FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY

Award-winning photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. 440 Julia St., 504.547.5931. Map 3, H4; frankrelle.com

KEIL’S ANTIQUES

Founded in 1899, Keil’s established its reputation with rare 18th- and 19th-century French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. 325 Royal

St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4; keilsantiques.com

M.S. RAU ANTIQUES

This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 622 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4; rauantiques.com

MICHALOPOULOS

The off-kilter architectural renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4; michalopoulos.com

RODRIGUE STUDIO

Devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular Blue Dog series are available. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; georgerodrigue.com

TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY

Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; terranceosborne.com

VINTAGE 329

A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Retro sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4; vintage329.com

WINDSOR FINE ART

This fine art gallery features original works from the old masters and masters of the Belle Époque to the modern masters and the biggest names in post-war contemporary art. Internationally renowned contemporary artists and sculpture are also featured. 221

SHOPPING

Royal St., 504. 586.0202. Map 3, F4; windsorfineart.com

Books & Music

BALDWIN & CO.

In addition to books geared to a wide range of interests, this popular shop also houses a coffee bar and podcast studio. 1003 Elysian Fields Ave., 504.354.1741. Map 3, I3; baldwinandcobooks.com

CRESCENT CITY BOOKS

Louisiana’s sole member of the Antiquarian Bookseller’s Association. In addition to a large selection of vintage books, the shop offers maps and prints. 240 Chartres St., 504.524.4997. Map 3, E3; crescentcitybooks. com

FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS

For six months in 1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldier’s Pay.” First additions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. 624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St.

Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940. Map 3, G4; faulknerhousebooks.com

LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY

There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; louisianamusicfactory.com

PEACHES RECORDS

For nearly five decades, this local chain has been promoting area musicians with a large selection of New Orleans music. 4318 Magazine St., 504.282.3322. Map 1, D4

Clothing, Hats, Shoes & Accessories

BELLA UMBRELLA

Cloudy skies? This shop helps keep a sunny disposition with cool rain gear, ranging from vintage parasols to its signature pagoda-style umbrellas. 2036

Magazine St., 504.302.1036. Map 1, D4; bellaumbrella.com

BILLY REID

Award-winning designer

Reed’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his birth state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4; billyreid.com

CENTURY GIRL

A bright, glittery women’s clothing and accessories emporium that steps back in time with gorgeous retro fashions 2023 Magazine St., 504.875.3105. Map 1, D4;centurygirlvintage.com

DIRTY COAST

Catering to locals and inthe-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. 1320 Magazine St., 504.766.0752. Map 1, E4; 5415 Magazine

St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4; dirtycoast.com

GOORIN BROS. HATS

The city’s newest hat shop dates to 1895, when milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s hip headwear is found nationwide. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; goorin.com

JON FLUEVOG

“Unique soles for unique souls.” This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among trendy travelers. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4; fluevog.com

SHOE BE DO

Get a step ahead with cuttingedge women’s footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; shoebedousa.com

UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS

A bargain hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock

items at drastically reduced prices. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4; 3306 Magazine St., 504.354.2777. Map 1, D4; shopual.com

Gifts & Collectibles

BUNGALOWS

This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and gift items. 610 Chartres St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4; shopbungalows.com

DARK MATTER

Jars of preserved scorpions. Taxidermy mice, mummified birds and possum skulls. Eerie art and moody photography. More than 30 regional oddity artisans are represented in this macabre space. 822 Chartres St. Map 3, H5

FLEURTY GIRL

These popular boutiques are packed with Crescent City collectibles, NOLA-centric T-shirts and great gift items. 617 Chartres St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; fleurtygirl.net

HEX OLD WORLD WITCHERY

A magical emporium offering everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. 1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5; hexwitch.com

OMEN

This witchcraft shop offers psychic readings, along with candles, brooms and the city’s largest selection of tarot decks. Psychics are also available for private events. 1205 Decatur St., 504.322.7440. Map 3, I4; omensalem.com

PASSION LILIE/ BEATRIX BELL

This designer-owned boutique features handcrafted jewelry and fairtrade clothing, along with a curated collection of home accessories, bath and

body goods and gift items. 831 Chartres St., 504.5070644. Map 3, H5; plbbcollective. myshopify.com

Jewelry

ART & EYES

The eyes have it at this chic eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; artandeyesneworleansla.com

FLEUR D’ORLEANS

French Quarter cast iron, St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and Uptown ornamental columns are among the architectural elements incorporated into the jewelry here. 717 Royal St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; fleurdorleans.com

PORTER LYONS

Jewelry designer Ashley Lyons is a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations. 623 Royal St., 504.518.4945. Map 3, G4; porterlyons.com

WELLINGTON & CO.

This small space is largely devoted to antique and estate pieces, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco designs. Engagement and bridal jewelry are also featured, along with new designer lines. 505 Royal St., 504. 525.4855. Map 3, F4; wcjewelry.com

Malls/Major Retailers

CANAL PLACE

Some of world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton and Saks Fifth Avenue. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5; canalplacestyle.com

LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER

A favorite shopping stop of New Orleanians, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores. 301 Veterans Blvd., 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2; lakesideshopping.com

RIVERWALK OUTLETS

Located along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the nation’s first urban outlet center offers more than 70 shops. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7; riverwalkneworleans.com

ATTRACTIONS

Attractions & Landmarks

ARMSTRONG PARK

Named for the late jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre greenspace is home to Congo Square, where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2

AUDUBON PARK

Walk, jog, golf or picnic among the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org

AUDUBON ZOO

Inhabited by more than 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the finest in the U.S. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org

CITY PARK

Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 D2; neworleanscitypark.com

CRESCENT PARK

Looking for unique views of the city? Stroll along this 1.4mile riverfront promenade, which stretches from the French Quarter to the Bywater neighborhood. Map 3, J6; crescentparknola.org

DESTREHAN PLANTATION

A 30-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter, and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily: M-Th, 9 am-4:30 pm; F-Su, 10

am-5:30 pm. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 985.764.9315; destrehanplantation.org

FRENCH MARKET

America’s oldest public market. Along with homegrown specialties, it also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1008 N. Peters St., 504.636.6400. Map 3, H5; frenchmarket.org

HARRAH’S CASINO

The city’s largest casino is located at the foot of Canal Stree. The mammoth pleasure palace features 115,000 square feet of gaming space and a number of great dining venues. 228 Poydras St., 800.427.7247. Map 3, E6; caesars.com/ harrahs-new-orleans

HOUMAS HOUSE HISTORIC ESTATE AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds. A museum charting the history of River Road is also featured. Daily tours, 9:30 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La, 225.473.9380; houmashouse.com

JACKSON SQUARE

The heart of the Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5

NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK

This pocket-sized park celebrates Bourbon Street’s musical legacy with statues of Allen Toussaint, Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offer cool libations, lite bites and live music. 311 Bourbon St., 504.888.7608. Map 3, F4

OLD URSULINE CONVENT

Dating to 1727, this is the oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M, Th-Sa, 10 and 11 am and 1 pm. 1112 Chartres St.,

504.529.3040. Map 3, I4; stlouiscathedral.org

SMOOTHIE KING CENTER

Cousin to the Superdome, the Center is home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, D8; smoothiekingcenter.com

ST. BERNARD PARISH

Founded by Canary Islanders in 1778, today St. Bernard Parish is a thriving, familyoriented community and popular fishing and birding destination. Attractions include Chalmette Battlefield, the Los Isleños Museum & Village and St. Bernard State Park. visitstbernard.com

ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL

Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Jackson Square, 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4; stlouiscathedral.org

STUDIO BE

Brandan Odums’ giant graffitistyle murals explore Black life through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X, Muhammad Ali and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Su. 2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231. Map 1, E3; studiobenola.com

VUE ORLEANS

Along with the highest viewpoint in the city, this one-of-akind, 360-degree observatory provides a crash course in local history and culture through a variety of immersive exhibits and interactive experiences. Open daily. 2 Canal St., 504.285.3600. Map 3, E6; vueorleans.com

WHITNEY PLANTATION

Opened to the public for the first time in its 265-year history, this plantation explores slavery through moving first-person accounts. Tours are offered W-M, 10 am-3 pm. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300; whitneyplantation.org

Attractions

WOLDENBERG PARK

This grassy riverfront promenade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium to Jackson Square, affords great views of the Mississippi. Map 3, F6; audubonnatureinstitue.org

Museums

CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER

The city’s premier modern art exhibit space features rotation exhibits and also plays host to performances. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6; cacno.org

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION

This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions, along with permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; hnoc.org

LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS

The Louisiana State Museum operates a number of French Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbytère; the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. Open Tu-Su. 504.568.6968. louisianastatemuseum.org

MUSEUM OF THE SOUTHERN JEWISH EXPERIENCE

Three galleries of interactive exhibits examine Jewish life in 13 Bible Belt states, while exploring the broader concept of the great American tapestry. Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. 818 Howard Ave., 504.384.2480. Map 3, B5; msje.org

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM

This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits, including the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries.” Open daily, 9 am-5 pm. 945 Magazine St.,

504.528.1944. Map 3, B6; nationalww2museum.org

NEW ORLEANS AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM

This repository of African American art, culture and history is located in the Faubourg Tremé, America’s oldest Black neighborhood. Rotating exhibits are featured. Neighborhood tours are also offered. Open ThSu, 11 am-4 pm. 1417-1418 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.218.8254. Map 3, I2; noaam.org

NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MUSEUM

The world’s largest and most comprehensive collection of jazz-related artifacts offers rotating exhibits and live performances. Open Tu-Su, 9 am-4pm. 400 Esplanade Ave (in the Old U.S. Mint), 504.568.6993. Map 3, I5; nolajazzmuseum.org

Attractions

NEW

ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART

One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free sculpture garden. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-5 pm. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; noma.org

NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM

This former apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-5 pm. 514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4; pharmacymuseum.org

OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART

This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; ogdenmuseum.org

SAZERAC HOUSE

Explore the evolution of the city’s cocktail culture through a variety of exhibits, while sipping samples along the way. Free. Open Tu-Su, 11 am-6 pm. 101 Magazine St., 504.910.0100. Map 3, E5; sazerachouse.com

ENTERTAINMENT

Cruises & Tours

AIRBOAT ADVENTURES

Dive into Louisiana swamplands on guided, high-speed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Hotel pickup available for an additional fee. 504.689.2005. airboat adventures.com

CITY SIGHTSEEING

This informative doubledecker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again— at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; citysightseeing neworleans.com

CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER

Daily 2.5-hour brunch and Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; creolequeen.com

GATORS AND GHOSTS

This tour group offers a variety of excursions, from swamp explorations to city, plantation and haunted outings. Hotel pickups and drop-offs are available. 888.481.8188. gatorsand ghosts.com

GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS

Gray Line provides a wide array of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, City, Steamboat, River Cruises—and all possible combinations. Call for tour info and reservations. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; graylineneworleans.com

HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS

Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. hauntedhistorytours.com

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ

The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Departs from Toulouse Street and the Mississippi River. 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; steamboatnatchez.com

NIGHTLIFE

Cocktails

ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75

Fine libations and classic cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.54533. Map 3, F4; arnauds.com

BAR MARILOU

With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisianaccented space is perfect for sipping an aperitif while nibbling on sophisticated bar biteS. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711. Map 3, C5; barmarilou.com

CHANDELIER BAR

The Four Seasons’ aptly named lobby lounge is anchored by a dramatic 15,000-crystal centerpiece and award-winning bartender Hadi Ktiri. 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; fourseasons.com/neworleans

LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP

This historic cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5; lafittesblacksmithshop.com

MARTINE’S LOUNGE

Tucked in a strip mall in nearby Metairie, this no-frills, no-attitude cocktail/wine bar is an ideal alternative to Bourbon Street’s hustle and jive. Great daily happy hour. 2347 Metairie Rd., Metairie, 504.831.8637. Map 1, C2

PAL’S LOUNGE

Friendly bartenders, strong pours and rotating food pop-ups make this casual, Mid-City neighborhood spot a

local favorite. 949 Rendon St., 504.488.7257. Map 1, D2.

PAT O’BRIEN’S

Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; patobriens.com

THE PENTHOUSE CLUB

This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and most popular along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4; penthouseclub neworleans.com

SAZERAC BAR

Thirties elegance and classic quaffs inside the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 7130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; therooseveltneworleans.com

THE WILL & THE WAY

Tucked between Bourbon and Royal, this not-so-hidden gem offers a low-key vibe, well-crafted cocktails and an elevated, easy-to-digest bar bites menu. 719 Toulouse St. thewillandthe way.com

Live Entertainment

BLUE NILE

This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. 532 Frenchmen St. Map, J5; bluenilelive.com

THE FILLMORE

Harrah’s Casino ups the city’s live-music ante with this 22,000-sq.-ft. offshoot of the legendary San Francisco venue, which features top-tier national touring acts. 6 Canal St., 504.881.1555. Map 3, E6; fillmorenola.com

HOUSE OF BLUES

The New Orleans branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, mixing

big-name tours with homegrown favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; hob.com

THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE

This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. A rotating roster of top-tier local talent is featured. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map 3, F4; sonesta.com

MAPLE LEAF

A tin roof and a sweaty dance floor make for a quintessential N’awlins experience fueled by funk from Crescent City greats. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3; mapleleafbar.com

MUSIC BOX VILLAGE

At this whimsical wonderland, ramshackle huts double as instruments. The one-of-a-kind open-air venue also hosts live performances. 4557 N. Rampart St., Map 1, E3; musicboxvillage.com

PRESERVATION HALL

Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this beloved nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4; preservationhall.com

THE SPOTTED CAT

This tiny club has a casual, laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) . 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5; spottedcatmusicclub.com

TIPITINA’S

The legendary Tips offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; tipitinas.com

TOULOUSE THEATRE

This French Quarter music venue takes its name from a former performance space in the same location. Local acts share billing with visiting headliners. 615 Toulouse St., 504.571.9771. Map 3, G5; toulousetheatre.com

NEW ORLEANS

MAP 1:

NEW ORLEANS METRO & JEFFERSON PARISH

MAP 2: SOUTH LOUISIANA

MAP 3: CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT & FRENCH QUARTER

AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4

AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5

AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4

AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4

BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4

LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3

BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5

BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5

BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5

BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4

CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6

CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4

CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F3

CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7

DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3

CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4

DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3

DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5

DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4

EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5

EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7

FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4

FS Four Seasons, 2 Canal St., 434-5100 E6

FR The Frenchmen, 417 Frenchmen St., 688-2900 J5

HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4

HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 B8

HR Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6

HH Higgins Hotel & Conference Center, 1000 Magazine St., 528-1941 B6

HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4

HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7

HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7

SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4

FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5

HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3

HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3

HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5

HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4

HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3

HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5

HF Hotel Fontenot, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6

LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4

MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4

PP Hotel Peter & Paul, 2317 Burgundy St., 365-5200 K5

PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5

SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4

SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3

HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4

HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7

HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3

IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4

IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5

JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4

JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2

LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5

LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5

LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6

LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4

LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6

MZ Maison de la Luz, 546 Carondelet St., 814.7720 C5

MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3

MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4

MW Marriott Warehouse Arts District, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 577-1520 C7

ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4

90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4

NO NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4

OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 F3

OR Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 D7

OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4

OE One11 Hotel, 111 Iberville St., 699.8100 E6

PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5

PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4

PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6

PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4

QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5

RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6

PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4

RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6

RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4

RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3

RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5

RF Royal Frenchmen, 700 Frenchmen St., 619-9660 J4

RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4

RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4

SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5

ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5

SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7

VH Virgin Hotels New Orleans, 550 Baronne St., 833-791-7700 C4

WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4

WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5

WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5

WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6

WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 D4

WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

PARTING SHOT

Dancing in the Street

In addition to four days of free live music, the French Quarter Festival (fq .org) offers free dance lessons. Jazz, jitterbug, the Charleston, swing, zydeco—join in!