Where Magazine New Orleans Mar 23

Museum

Must-Sees

PBR Bucks

Into Town

On the Bagel Beat

St. Patrick’s Shenanigans

STELLA!

THE TENNESSEE WILLIAMS

FESTIVAL AND MORE FUN EVENTS

Picasso

Mr. Brainwash

Jose Basso

Rembrandt

DISCOVER HOW THE WAR THAT CHANGED THE WORLD CHANGED THE PEOPLE WHO LIVED IT.

ON THE COVER

12

From 19thcentury Creole life to 21st-century Southern art, we’ve got a museum experience just for you.

Out & About

15

A trio of book festivals, a trio of music and food fests and one bucking good time. 16

Making the Rounds

Once bagel-bereft, suddenly the city is brimming with boiled and baked beauties.

The Tenneesee Williams Festival’s Stella & Stanley Shouting Contest (p. 10), a March must-do.

©SHAWN FINK

VISIT THE HISTORIC FRENCH MARKET DISTRICT

Long before French explorers founded New Orleans in 1718, Native Americans had established a bustling trading post on the site of what is now known as the French Market. e nation’s oldest public market continues to thrive today, with a variety of fresh produce vendors, eateries, ea market stalls, stand-alone shops and popular annual events, such as the Creole Tomato Festival. In addition to the open-air market, the French Market District includes the Upper Pontalba Buildings surrounding Jackson Square (the rst apartment complex in the U.S.), the Shops of the Colonnade and the riverfront Crescent Park. For a full lineup of o erings and free events, visit frenchmarket.org

VENDOR SPOTLIGHT

Dutch Alley

Artist’s Co-op Sabine Chadborn came to New Orleans from Germany in 1991. Focused on wire wrapping, she took metalsmith classes in Pforzheim, Germany and at Arrowmont School of Arts and Crafts in Tennessee. Sabine loves natural stones mounted in traditional settings. The “Bubbles” are her circular designs in various con gurations.

MARKET MERCH

Stop waking up and putting on boring socks! Socks on the Square in the historic Upper Pontalba Building overlooking Jackson Square offers a unique selection of socks for all foot sizes and sensibilities. The New Orleans collection includes beignet and coffee, eur de lis and streetcar designs, making them the perfect NOLA memento.

WHAT’S HAPPENING

March 4

St. Joseph’s Day Celebration

The celebration will include panel discussions with Black Masking Indians and New Orleanians of Sicilian decent sharing holiday history and cultural traditions from their respective communities.

May 13

Asian Pacific American Heritage Festival

Festivities will feature cultural performances, food vendors, and community organizations.

© ZACK SMITH

ST. JOSEPH’S ALTAR: ©SHAWN FINK

Full disclosure: I am a former board member of the Tennessee Williams Literary Festival, played Perchik in a college production of “Fiddler on the Roof,” have an a nity for both bagels and museums and judged the Hogs for the Cause barbecue competition multiple times. Oh, and Morris Communications, publisher of WhereTraveler, owns the Nashville Stampede, a Professional Bull Riders team.

Paging through this month’s issue, one might think I have some vested interest in its coverage. But honestly, I just love this city and all it o ers, and sharing that love with others. Take in the Williams fest’s ridiculously fun Stella & Stanley Shouting Contest, featured on our cover, and you’ll be hard-pressed not to fall for it too. And what’s not to like about gumbo, green beer and citywide St. Patrick’s celebrations?

For all its big city swagger, at heart New Orleans is really a small town. So, it’s only natural that Andrew LaMar Hopkins, whose Louisiana State Museum exhibit we highlight, was one of the rst people I found roaming the Quarter after Katrina. Back then he was just Andrew; now he’s an art world phenom, the toast of Manhattan and Paris, who just had one of his works acquired by the National Gallery.

Call it nepotism, favoritism or what you will. In truth, it’s more a testament to living in this great city and having a job that allows me to experience and promote it. To borrow from “Fiddler”—“to life, to life, l’chaim!”

Or in the local vernacular—laissez les bon temps rouler!

PUBLISHER

Lois Sutton, 504.522.6468, lois.sutton@morris.com

EDITOR

Doug Brantley

ART DIRECTOR

Hadley Kincaid

CONTRIBUTORS

Jenny Adams, Shawn Fink, Lorin Gaudin

ACCOUNT MANAGERS Stephanie Cantrell 504.522.6468, stephanie.cantrell@morris.com Vincent Tortorich, 504.522.6468, vincent.tortorich@morris.com

A PUBLICATION OF MCC MAGAZINES, LLC a division of Morris Communications Company, LLC 735 Broad Street, Augusta, GA 30901

MCC MAGAZINES, LLC

PRESIDENT Tina Battock

VICE PRESIDENT Scott Ferguson DIRECTOR — MANUFACTURING & PRODUCTION

Sherry Brown

ACCOUNTING MANAGER

Veronica Brooks

CIRCULATION BUSINESS MANAGER

Michelle Rowe

MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS COMPANY, LLC

CHAIRMAN

William S. Morris III

CEO Craig S. Mitchell

CALENDAR

WHAT’S HAPPENING THE LINEUP

ST. PATRICK’S PARTIES

MARCH 3, 11 & 17

That clamor in the Quarter March 3 at noon? That’s the Irish Channel St. Patrick’s Club “practicing” for its parade, which rolls along Magazine Street March 11 at 1 pm, tossing cabbages, carrots and kisses along the way. But the big blowout is on St. Pat’s proper: Grab a Guinness from Molly’s at the Market, a Frozen Irish Coffee at the Erin Rose or a Fuzzy Leprechaun from Pat O’Brien’s and hit the streets of the French Quarter, like the Downtown Irish Club Parade does at 7 pm. stpatricksdayneworleans.com

GREAT THINGS THIS MONTH

Fiddler on the Roof

Through March 5

“A ddler on the roof. Sounds crazy, no?” Even crazier is that this retooled Broadway musical about a Jewish milkman clinging to tradition in a fast-changing world remains as relevant

today as when it debuted nearly 60 years ago. saengernola.com

New Orleans Pelicans

March 8-23

The Pels play six home games at the Smoothie King Center this month, starting with the Dallas Mavericks (Mar. 8) and ending with the Charlotte Hornets (Mar. 23). For a full lineup, visit smoothie kingcenter.com.

Wednesday at the Square

March 15, 22 & 29

The free outdoor concert series returns to Lafayette Square with Water Seed and the Rumble (Mar. 15), Maggie Koerner and

Louis Michot (Mar. 22) and Galactic with YUSA (Mar. 29). Performances begin at 5 pm. ylcwats.com

Patti LaBelle

March 17

What’s sweeter than the Grandmother of Soul’s sweet potato pie? Seeing the Grammy Hall of Famer perform. saengernola.com

NOLA on Tap

March 18

Beer lovers, start your engines. Better yet, call an Uber for this toast-worthy suds celebration. nolaontap.com

Super Sunday

March 19

The Black Masking Indians

strut their feathered and beaded nery around the Central City neighborhood. The colorful procession begins at 1 pm at A.L. Davis Park (Washington Ave. and LaSalle St.), unless the forecast calls for rain.

Stella & Stanley Shouting Contest

March 19

Long the nale for the annual Tennessee Williams Literary Festival, this mustsee moves to the Sunday before the fest. Taking their cue from the playwright’s French Quarter-set “A Streetcar Named Desire,” contestants bellow for Brando bragging rights at Jackson Square starting at 4 pm. tenneessewilliams.net

IRISH CHANNEL ST. PATRICK'S PARADE "FIDDLER ON THE ROOF"

SUPER SUNDAY

520 royal street in the french quarter

Culture Clubbing

Eight great museum exhibits and experiences you need to seek out

BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM

Not in town for Super Sunday (p. 10)? Even if you are, the elaborately designed Black Masking Indian suits on display at this Tremé neighborhood institution are still well worth a visit. Over the years, late founder Sylvester Francis amassed a huge collection of artifacts and ephemera chronicling the city’s culture bearers and processional traditions. Today his daughter Dominique carries on her father’s legacy of “keeping jazz funerals alive” with displays on Indian tribes, second-line parades, Mardi Gras Skull and Bones gangs and the beloved Baby Dolls.

BACKSTREETMUSEUM.ORG

THE CABILDO

Self-taught folk artist/antiquarian/historian/drag queen Andrew LaMar Hopkins

went from working at the Louisiana State Museum’s 1850s House gift shop to being the rst living Black artist to have a solo exhibit at its nearby Cabildo. Creole New Orleans, Honey! examines 19th-century local life and society through more than 70 of Hopkins’ period-perfect paintings. Divided into ve sections, the highly detailed, historically accurate depictions are coupled with items re ected in them (Campeche chairs, tignon head wraps, antebellum armoires), culled from the museum’s vast holdings.

LOUISIANASTATEMUSEUM.ORG

CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER

Inspired by “13th,” Ava DuVernay’s Emmywinning documentary lm about race, justice and mass incarceration, Undoing Time: Art and Histories of Incarcer-

FROM LEFT: THE BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM AND ANDREW LAMAR HOPKINS' "CREOLE BOY OF COLOR IN THE SALON OF HIS CREOLE COTTAGE" AT THE CABILDO

ation examines the current-day prison system crisis through an art historical perspective. Opening at month's end, the traveling Arizona State University Art Museum exhibit features commissioned pieces by 12 contemporary artists who incorporate archival research into their works, connecting the legacies of the past to the present. e CAC also plays host to the annual Birdfoot Festival, an unconventional citywide celebration of chamber music, March 10-18.

CACNO.ORG

HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION

Ah…Paris in the springtime! A trip abroad not in your budget? Pay a visit to the HNOC, where the NotreDame de Paris exhibit allows you to explore the famed French cathedral for free. Continuing through March 19, the augmented reality experience utilizes touch-screen tablets to transport guests to the Middle Ages to see the architectural masterpiece’s foundation being laid; to the early 1800s for the coronation of Napoleon I; to 2019 to witness the massive re that almost destroyed it; to the present day’s ongoing restoration. Afterward, nibble on fromage and baguettes from the courtyard café.

HNOC.ORG

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: THE CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER'S "UNDOING TIME" EXHIBIT, THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION'S "NOTRE-DAME DE PARIS" AND "GODS, GOATS AND PICKUP TRUCKS" AT THE MUSEUM OF THE SOUTHERN JEWISH EXPERIENCE

MUSEUM OF THE SOUTHERN JEWISH EXPERIENCE

Opened in 2021, the MSJE explores 300 years of Jewish life in the Bible Belt through a variety of collections touching on everything from the foundations of Judaism to the Civil Rights Movement. Its rst ne art exhibit, God, Goats and Pickup Trucks, features 23 works by Texas-based artist and educator Maurice Schmidt depicting both religious and rural life. Continuing through May, the collection (ranging from paintings and sketches to prints and sculpture) will return to its permanent home at the San Angelo Museum of Fine Art, except for the exhibit’s centerpiece, “Herdsman Are We, Both We and y Fathers,” which Schmidt has donated to the MSJE.

MSJE.ORG

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM

From its multisensory 4D lm “Beyond All Boundaries” to its immersive “USS Tang Submarine Experience” to its high- ying Boeing Center, there’s a lot to take in at the National WWII Museum. Add to your must-do list the recently opened Expressions of America soundand-light experience. Using state-of-the-art technology, more than 500 archival images projected 90-feet tall and rst-person accounts from wartime journals and letters, the 60-minute after-dark production salutes

Where Now

those who served on the battle eld as well as on the home front.

EXPRESSIONSOFAMERICA.ORG NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART

With his modernist depictions of everyday Harlem life and African American historical gures, Jacob Lawrence established himself as one of the most widely acclaimed Black artists of the 20th century. Black Orpheus examines the connection between Lawrence and his West African contemporaries, members of the Mbari Artists & Writers Club, whose “Black Orpheus” magazine served as one of the main outlets for African

and African Diaspora writers and artists during the 1960s. In addition to works by artists featured in the publication, the exhibit also features Lawrence’s rarely seen “Nigeria” series.

NOMA.ORG

OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART

When the Ogden opened in 2003, it counted close to 2,700 works among its permanent collection. Today it's nearly double that, a re ection not only of the museum’s ever-expanding acquisitions but also the evolution of Southern art—and artists—over the past

two decades. To mark its 20th anniversary milestone, the Ogden is mounting its largest exhibition to date, Knowing Who We Are, celebrating the diversity of the modern South and its cultural complexity, which will eventually encompass the entire museum. e current fth- oor showcase spotlights contemporary artists working in all manner of media, including Cuban-born abstractionist Luis Cruz Azaceta, Vietnamese American ceramicist Christian Dinh and self-described "Cajun Asian" photographer Jade iraswas, among others.

CLOCKWISE ROM LEFT: THE NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM'S "EXPRESSIONS OF AMERICA," THE OGDEN'S "KNOWING WHO WE ARE" EXHIBIT AND JACOB LAWRENCE'S "MARKET SCENE" AT

OGDENMUSEUM.ORG

THE NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART

Out & About

THREE FOR THE BOOKS

Carl Bernstein, Maureen Dowd, Eric Holder, Maggie Haberman, Jonathan Martin, April Ryan, Tony Dokoupil, Katy Tur: Co-chair Walter Isaacson’s in uence is evident in the politics-heavy lineup at the New Orleans Book Festival March 9-11. But you’ll likewise nd tomes and panels on local food, drink, music and culture during this “Mardi Gras for the mind” at Tulane University. Bookish types will also gather in the French Quarter March 22-26 for the 37th annual Tennessee Williams Literary Festival and tandem LGBTQ+focused Saints & Sinners Festival, which celebrates its 20th anniversary. Along with an always entertaining lineup of author readings and discussions, walking tours and celebrity interviews, new this year is the performance-driven “Last Bohemia Fringe Fest.” bookfest.tulane. edu; tennesseewilliams.net

BULL MANEUVERS

Say “bull” in the Crescent City, and thoughts rst turn to the o beat San Fermin in Nueva Orleans, in which participants are chased by horn-wearing rollerbladers. But the real deal bucks into town March 17-18, when the Professional Bull Riders “Unleash the Beast” at the Smoothie King Center. More than

35 of the world’s best bull riders vie for points in the race to the 2023 Championship title—and the big belt buckle trophy (and dollars) that come with it. PBR events are more rock concert than rodeo. Expect pyrotechnics, music, showmanship and two nights of “the toughest sport on dirt.” smoothie kingcenter.com

EAT UP & DANCE IT OFF

Come March, locals pack away their Carnival costumes and haul out springtime festival wear (i.e., stretchy pants); any good fest features lots of great food. e Tremé Creole Gumbo & Congo Square Rhythms Festival is a prime example. Taking place March 25-26 at Armstrong Park, the free two-for-one a air celebrates both the city’s rich musical heritage as well as its legendary cuisine. A Cajun zydeco fan? Head to the riverfront Crescent Park March 25 for the NOLA Zydeco Fest, where craw sh, boudin and even more gumbo are on the menu. Or pig out and party on at the UNO Lakefront Arena Festival Grounds March 31-April 1 during Hogs for the Cause, where more than 20 bands perform while 90-plus pork-centric BBQ teams battle for top billing. jazzandheritage.org; nolazydecofest.com; hogsfest.org

FROM TOP: THE TREMÉ CREOLE GUMBO & CONGO SQUARE RHYTHMS FEST, SAINTS & SINNERS AND PROFESSIONAL BULL RIDERS

Making the Rounds

Bite into the burgeoning Big Easy bagel scene

Lorin Gaudin

New Orleans has a bagel history. In the late 1970s there was Long’s deli on Freret and the suburban Bagel Factory; their handmade bagels scratched the itch of my Chicago Jewish girl self. When they closed, the city was basically bagel-bereft, except for the Kosher Cajun Deli, which, like most local stores, carries bagged commercial varieties.

In 2006 Dan Stein opened Stein’s Deli on Magazine Street, where the bagels come in from New York par-baked, to be nal-baked on the daily. That sparked bagel-eating and -making interest, and a few industrious bakers added homemade bagels to their menu (RIP Cake Café). But New Orleans still was not a bagel town… until now. Suddenly handmade bagels are everywhere

FLOUR MOON BAGELS

Along the La tte Greenway (a quick bike ride from the French Quarter), chef Breanne Kostyk and partner Jeff Hinson’s recently opened shop is dedicated to hand-shaped, boiled and baked bagels. The daily selection ranges from Pumpernickel Everything to Za’atar, Rosemary Salt and more, with a few weekend specials. This is the only place to nd oblong, slightly honeysweet, sesame-covered Jerusalem bagels (weekends) perfect for dragging through tangy-tart labne (yogurt dip). The broad

menu of bagel sandwiches and open-faced “tartines” includes savory and sweet topping combinations, a slew of avored cream cheeses, butters, white sh salad and vegetarian spreads. ourmoonbagels.com

LEO’S BREAD

After years of selling bagels at pop-ups and farmers’ markets, chef Kate Heller opened a shop in the hip, food-centric area near Broad and Esplanade, not far from the Fairgrounds. Big, airy bagels (plain, sesame or everything) come as is; dressed with

LEFT:

BAGELS’ “NEW MOON” TARTINE; OPPOSITE PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: A BAYOU BAGEL WITH SCALLION CREAM CHEESE FROM THE RABBIT’S FOOT, LA BOULANGERIE’S “SALMON BAGEL” AND A GRACIOUS BAKERY BAGEL SAMPLER

EVERYTHING BAGELS FROM BYWATER BAKERY

FLOUR MOON

(FROM TOP) ©JOSH HAILEY; ©EMILY FERRETTI

house-whipped cream cheese and smoked salmon; or there’s an open-faced veg bagel topped with avocado, shaved carrots, cilantro, dill and chili crunch. leosbread.com

BYWATER BAKERY

Chef Chaya Conrad and crew throw a Fridays-only bagel bash with lox, bagels, cream cheese and the “ xins’.” Their list of bagel avors includes standards as well as a cheesy Asiago bagel that serves as the smart choice for a “Classic” with bacon, eggs and cheese. bywaterbakery.com

THE BAYOU BAGEL COMPANY

Bagel guy Brad Gordon rolls out four or so bagel avors found in local grocery stores and specialty markets around the city. Buy them pre-packaged, or on the menu at The Rabbit’s Foot on Prytania Street, where Bayou Bagels are the foundation for

egg or smoked salmon-andgarnishes breakfast sandwiches. bayoubagel.com; rabbitsfoot nola.com

HUMBLE BAGEL

Chef-owners Casey Mackintosh and Tara Mikhail make “New York-style” bagels with a dough that’s sweetened by Louisiana’s Steen’s Cane Syrup. Open Thursday through Sunday on walkable/shoppable Freret Street, there are 10 straightforward bagel varieties and some special avors, including Egg, Sourdough and Chocolate Chip. Bagel breakfast sandwiches, both vegetarian and meaty, are available, as are several avors of cream cheeses, including strawberry. humblebagel.com

GRACIOUS BAKERY

Chef Megan Roen Forman and husband Jay run three easy-toaccess locations in the Garden

District, Uptown and Mid-City, where homemade bagels are the choice base for breakfast or lunch. There is a very popular lemon-caper cream cheese to keep it simple or, at lunch, order a “Black Forest Ham” (with pecan-cheddar spread, sliced apples and pepper jelly) on a sesame bagel. graciousbakery.com

LA BOULANGERIE

An Uptown institution, La Boulangerie’s massive case and basket wall is lled with many of pastry chef Maggie Scales’ baked goods, including bagels. Here, the “Salmon Bagel” is distinctly made with a hand-formed bagel, a generous spread of cream cheese, aked bits of smoked salmon let, tomatoes, pickled red onions and capers. The breakfast sausage, spicy baked egg and cheddar is also very bagel friendly.

laboulangerienola.com

PICNIC PERFECT

A build-your-own charcuterie platter from Gris-Gris to Go Go (p. 22). As of press time, the following listings were accurate but subject to change; call ahead to verify hours.

DINING

Central Business/ Warehouse District

BÉSAME

Latin. Chef Nanyo Dominguez’s Latin American menu covers a lot of ground: Oaxacan-style ceviche, crispy cauliflower tapas, Yucatan pork. For big appetites, the seafood paella more than satisfies. L (Th-Su), D (Th-M). 110 S. Rampart St., 504.308.0880. Map 3, E3; besame-nola.com

CAFÉ CARMO

International. This tropicalminded space pops out some wild—and wildly delicious— dishes, such as the zany Rico sandwich (fried and grilled plantains topped with pulled pork). Veggie and vegan options are also featured. B, L (Tu-Su). 527 Julia St., 504.875.4132. Map 3, C6; cafecarmo.com

CHEMIN À LA MER

Louisiana. French for “path to the sea,” chef Donald Link’s gorgeous Four Seasons space offers incredible views of the Mississippi, a well-stocked raw bar and top-tier steaks.

B, L, D (daily). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; cheminalamer.com

COCHON

Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and housecured meats. L, D (daily). 930

Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; cochonrestaurant.com

COMPÈRE LAPIN

Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia, chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as blackened pig ears with smoked aioli and curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi. D (nightly). 535

Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6; comperelapin.com

COPPER VINE

American. Along with 30 varietals on tap and an additional 20 by the glass, this easygoing “wine pub” serves up

truffle fries, a wide variety of small plates and heartier fare, such as Gulf fish amandine. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1001 Poydras St., 504.208.9535. Map 3, C4; coppervinewine.com

COUVANT

French. A slick, contemporary French bistro inside the Eliza Jane hotel. Standouts include gougères with truffled Mornay, tuna niçoise and a côte de boeuf for two with black garlic bordelaise. B (daily), L (M-F) D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 315 Magazine St., 504.324.5400. Map 3, D5; couvant.com

DOMENICA

Italian. Out-of-the-norm antipasti (roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics. Mangia, mangia! L, D (daily). 123 Baronne St., 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3; domenicarestaurant.com

EMERIL’S

Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship restaurant sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. D (Tu-Sa). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com

GIANNA

Italian. The focus here is on homey, rustic Italian cuisine. Chopped salad, meatballs in red gravy, lamb-and-mushroom lasagna, veal saltimbocca with pasta bordelaise; finish with a gelato and biscotti. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 700 Magazine St., 504.399.0816. Map 3, C6; giannarestaurant.com

GRAND ISLE

Seafood. This comfy seafood house boasts such standouts as smoked fried oysters, hot crab dip and other Southern favorites. Grab a seat at the bar for shrimp by the pound and cold beer from taps encased in ice. L (F-Su), D (W-Su). 575 Convention Center Blvd., 504.520.8530. Map 3, D6; grandislerestaurant.com

HERBSAINT

French. One of the city’s premier fine dining spots. The award-winning menu changes frequently, with entrées ranging from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 701 St Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5; herbsaint.com

JOSEPHINE ESTELLE

Italian. At this casual Ace Hotel eatery, the meatballs incorporate beef and pancetta, the pastas are toothy, and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. B, L (M, W-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5; josephineestelle.com

LÜKE

International. A throwback to Old World New Orleans brasseries. Creole melds with classic French bistro fare (shrimp bisque, moules et frites) and fresh Louisiana seafood. Great happy hour. L, D (daily). 333 St. Charles Ave. (in the Hilton St. Charles), 504.378.2840. Map 3, D4; lukeneworleans.com

MAYPOP

Eclectic. Chef Michael Gulotta (MoPho) expands on his Asianfusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrialterrarium vibe. Dig into fried oysters with bourbon-soy ailoi or go spicy with coconut braised lamb. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4; maypoprestaurant.com

MERIL

International. Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Korean short ribs to Mexican street corn. L (F-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com/meril

MISS RIVER

Louisiana. Chef Alon Shaya’s culinary love letter to the city includes renditions of local classics like the muffuletta and oyster patty, along with dramatic share-with-the-table whole fried chicken and clay pot

dirty rice with duck. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; missrivernola.com

PÊCHE

Seafood. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole fish, you can’t go wrong. L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; pecherestaurant.com

RESTAURANT AUGUST

Contemporary. Fine dining at its finest. The surroundings are elegant, and the food is spectacular, combining European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. D (nightly). 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5; restaurantaugust.com

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE

Steaks. Founded in 1965, this Crescent City classic, famed for its superb sizzling steaks and seafood, now has locations around the world. L, D (daily). 525 Fulton St. (inside Harrah’s Hotel), 504.587.7099. Map 3, D6; ruthschris.com

SEAWORTHY

Seafood This chic offshoot of New York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West Coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. D (nightly). 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5; seaworthynola.com

ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY

Deli. The St. James is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-the-line delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. You can dine in or order a sandwich or picnic to go. L (M-Sa). 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485. Map 3, C6; stjamescheese.com

TRUE FOOD KITCHEN

Eclectic. Backed by powerhouses Dr. Andrew Weil

and Oprah Winfrey, there’s everything to love about this “health-driven” restaurant, from the edamame dumplings to the ancient grains bowl and grass-fed burgers. L, D (daily). 801 St. Charles Ave., 504.558.3900. Map 3, B5; truefoodkitchen.com

TSUNAMI

Sushi. At this sprawling emporium the usual sushi suspects sit menu-side with funky items like calamari “fries.” Grab a seat at the bar and create your own roll. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 601 Poydras St., 504.608.3474. Map 3, C5; servingsushi.com

French Quarter

ANTOINE’S

Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure with rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. L (M, Th-F), D (M, Th-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4; antoines.com

ARNAUD’S

Creole. In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of its many famous dishes. D (W-Sa); Br (Su). 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; arnaudsrestaurant.com

BAYONA

Contemporary. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and lemon-caper sautéed sweetbreads. L (Th-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3; bayona.com

BIJOU

International. Easygoing-yetsophisticated is the vibe here. Kick off with fried goat cheese and tomato jam before moving on an elegant braised lamb or

meatless curried cauliflower. Finish with a warm cookie plate. D (M, W-Sa). 1014 N Rampart St., 504.603.0557. Map 3, H3; bijouneworleans.com

BOURBON HOUSE

Seafood. A standout addition to Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides. Don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp. L, D (daily). 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4; bourbonhouse.com

BRENNAN’S

Creole. The legendary establishment continues more than seven decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (Th-M). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4; brennansneworleans.com

CAFÉ BEIGNET

Coffee. Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun classics. Open daily. 311 Bourbon St., 504.500.4370. Map 3, F4; 334 Royal St. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St. Map 3, F5; 622 Canal St.; Map 3, E5; cafebeignet.com

CAFÉ DU MONDE

Coffee. In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a mustdo. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. Open daily. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; cafedumonde.com

CANE & TABLE

Cuban. This rum-centric restaurant provides a taste of the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu. L (Sa-Su), D (W-Su). 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5; caneandtablenola.com

COURT OF TWO SISTERS

Creole. No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant,

which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with Southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. Br, D (daily). 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4; courtoftwosisters.com

CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE

Louisiana. The French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring microbrews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the pretzel with beer cheese, German sausage and baby back ribs with sugarcane glaze. L, D (daily). 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, G5; crescentcitybrewhouse.com

DIAN XIN

Chinese. Dim sum craving? Satisfy it here. Steamed pork dumplings, crab-and-crawfish bao, salt-and-pepper squid; the menu goes on and on. L, D (Tu-Su). 1218 Decatur St., 504.266.2828. Map 3, I4; 620 Conti St., 504.372.3372. Map 3, F4; dianxinnnola.com; dianxinonconti.com

DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE

Steaks. An upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces. Think a sharable Chateaubriand or a 6-ounce filet with flash-fried oysters and béarnaise. Great Irish whiskey selection. D (M-Sa). 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4; dickiebreannanssteak house.com

DORIS METROPOLITAN

Steaks. A stunning steakhouse and butcher shop with superior quality dry-aged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. L (F), D (Tu-Su). 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4; dorismetropolitan.com

FRENCH TOAST

Breakfast. Breakfast is the get at this popular French Quarter spot. There are sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta). B, L (daily). 1035 Decatur St.,

504.300.5518. Map 3,H5; toastneworleans.com

FRENCH TRUCK

Coffee. French Truck established a loyal following as the city’s first micro-roaster. Fine coffees and killer cold brews dominate at its cool cafés. Open daily. 217 Chartres St., 504.605.2899. Map 3, F4; 650 Poydras St., 504. 800.8090. Map 3, D5; 1200 Magazine St., 504.298.1115, Map 3, 7; 2917 Magazine St., 504.399.9890. Map 1, D4; frenchtruckcoffee.com

GALATOIRE’S

Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s has been a gravity center of New Orleans. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. L, D (W-Su). 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4; galatoires.com

GW FINS

Seafood. The local obsession with seafood is taken to global heights here, with fresh fish flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. D (nightly). 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4; gwfins.com

IRENE’S CUISINE

Italian. Irene’s is all about garlic and olive oil, the importance of consistency, and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. D (Tu-Sa). 529 Bienville St., 504.529.8811. Map 3, F5; irenesnola.com

JEWEL OF THE SOUTH

Contemporary. This hidden gem pays homage to a 19thcentury restaurant of the same name, with retro cocktails (brandy crustas, French 75s) and an ever-changing, seasonal menu. D (W-Su); Br (Su). 1026 St. Louis St., 504.265.8816. Map 3, F3; jewelnola.com

JUSTINE

French. Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is

both classic and contemporary in design, but the menu is fullon French: onion soup gratinée, escargot, steak frites. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533. Map 3, E4; justinenola.com

KILLER POBOYS

Contemporary. This small joint has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chefcrafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw. L, D (W-M). 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St. (in the Erin Rose bar), 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4; killerpoboys.com

LATITUDE 29

Eclectic. World-renowned tiki guru Jeff “Beachbum”

Berry’s new-school tiki bar and restaurant recalls the spirit of Trader Vic’s. Classic tiki cocktails and original concoctions are paired with “PolynAsian” fare, such as sticky ribs. D (nightly). 321 N. Peters St., 504.609.3811. Map 3, F5; latitude29nola.com

MAMOU

French. A modern French bistro with Creole flavors. Cooked salmon tucked into brioche beignets, red beans cassoulet topped with slices of head cheese, roasted chicken with garlicky parley potatoes. For dessert? Lemon madeleines. D (Th-Su). 942 N. Rampart St., 504.381.4557. Map 3, H3; mamounola.com

MR. B’S BISTRO

Louisiana. Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual powerlunch scene. Must-gets include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding with Irish whiskey sauce. L (W-Sa), D (W-Su); Br (Su). 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4; mrbsbistro.com

NAPOLEON HOUSE

Louisiana. Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas. L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St.,

504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; napoleonhouse.com

PALACE CAFÉ

Creole. Part of the Brennan restaurant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake and andouille-crusted Gulf fish. L (W-F), D (W-Su); jazz brunch (SaSu). 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4; palacecafe.com

PALM & PINE

Eclectic. This progressive restaurant explores the wider definition of the South, including Latin America. There’s hot sausage carimañolas and duck tamales or dig into closer-tohome flavors of turkey neck gumbo. D (W-M); Br (Su). 308 N. Rampart St., 504.814.6200. Map 3, F3; palmandpinenola.com

RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION

Louisiana. Chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegantyet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. D (W-Su). 777 Bienville St., 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4; revolutionnola.com

SAINT JOHN

Creole. Creole classics reenvisioned through a contemporary lens. Hot shrimp remoulade, pork belly cassoulet, bacon fat-seared duck with satsuma glaze— everything old is delicious again. Br, D (W-M). 1117 Decatur St., 504.435.5151. Map 3, I5; saintjohnnola.com

STANLEY

Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambiance meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the French-fried frog legs and breakfast seafood platter, while Reuben sandwiches, burgers and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings.

B, L (Th-M). 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4; stanleyrestaurant.com

SYLVAIN

Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub near Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as Fried chicken sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4; sylvainnola.com

TABLEAU

Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes. Finish with a tarte à la bouillie. D (W-Su); Br (F-Su). 616 St Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4; tableaufrenchquarter.com

THAIHEY NOLA

Thai. Vibrant, modern Thai cuisine. Start with saltylemony fried okra, followed by the red curry frog legs and Louisiana crab fried rice. A full vegan menu is available as well. L, D (W-M). 308 Decatur St., 504.354.8646. Map 3, F5; thaiheynola.com

TUJAGUE’S

Creole. A historic restaurant with a new location, new look and newly reconstructed, five-course table d’hôte menu. Choose from the classic set menu or go á la carte with contemporary dishes. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 429 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, G5; tujaguesrestaurant.com

Garden District/ Lower Garden District

THE BOWER

Contemporary. Chef Marcus Woodham works closely with local farmers to keep his menu fresh and seasonal. Cheese and charcuterie boards give way to gorgeous house-made pastas and grilled Gulf fish. D (M-Sa). 1320 Magazine St., 504.582.9738. Map 1, D4; thebowernola.com

COMMANDER’S PALACE

Creole. Chef Meg Bickford carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole

principles, served in an elegant atmosphere. L (Th-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (SaSu). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; commanderspalace.com

COQUETTE

French. What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stacked with stellar standouts. D (M-Sa). 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4; coquettenola.com

FAT BOY PANTRY

Eclectic. Fried lobster po’boys, wild boar Sloppy Jos, lamb bellyand-scrambled eggs pitas, rib eye and Cheez Wiz: You won’t find your usual sandwich suspects here. Great juices, coffees and ice cream, too. L, D (daily). 1302 Magazine St., 504.239.9514; fatboypantry.com

GRIS-GRIS

Louisiana. Chef Eric Cook whips up elevated New Orleans standards (oyster-and-caviar po’ boys, sugarcane-seared duck) from his hopping open kitchen.The adjacent Gris-Gris to Go Go offers grab-andgo items. Br, D (W-M). 1800 Magazine St., 504.272.0241. Map 1, D4; grisgrisnola.com

JACK ROSE

Contemporary. This bold, contemporary space in the tony Pontchartrain Hotel turns out playful versions of familiar foods. Think mushroom pozole and pappardelle with lamb bacon. Cool cocktails; gorgeous desserts. D (W-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D4; jackroserestaurant.com

SAN LORENZO

Italian. The Hotel Saint Vincent’s elegant eatery serves up homemade pasta tumbled in light sauces, platters of chilled raw seafood and wood-fired steaks. Great wine list. L (M-F), D (nighty); Br (Sa-Su). 1507 Magazine St., 504.350.2450. Map 1, D4; saintvincentnola.com

DINING

TURKEY AND THE WOLF

Eclectic. Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, collard green melts. Don’t pass on the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. L (W-M). 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4; turkeyandthewolf.com

Marigny/Bywater

ALMA

Honduran. Chef Melissa Araujo’s menu reflects her Honduran heritage: savory orroz con pollo, baked plantains with refried pintos and housemade crema, Central American sweetbreads to go with Colombian coffee. Br (daily). 800 Louisa St., 504.381.5877. Map 1, E3;eatalmanola.com

BACCHANAL

Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L, D (daily). 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3; bacchanalwine.com

BYWATER

AMERICAN BISTRO

American. The menu at this casual neighborhood spot focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. Blackened octopus with smoked-corn purée, roasted fish with coconutcelrey root puree; don’t skip the chocolate ganache. D (W-Su). 2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827. Map 1, E3; bywateramericanbistro.com

THE COUNTRY CLUB

Louisiana. Known for its swimming pool, this longpopular Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crab beignets, truffle mac ‘n’ cheese) or full-on entrees, such as duck cassoulet. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; thecountryclubneworleans.com

ELIZABETH’S

American. “Real food done real good” is the motto at this low-key neighborhood spot. Two words to remember: praline

DINING/SHOPPING

bacon. B, L (Th-Tu). 601 Gallier St. 504.944.9272. Map 1, E3; elizabethsrestaurantnola.com

THE ELYSIAN BAR

Contemporary. Tucked inside the Peter and Paul Hotel, this sunny yellow dining room feels all warm and cozy, like a relative’s kitchen. The menu follows suit, with homey fare such as French-rolled omelets. Br, D (daily). 2317 Burgundy St., 504.356.6769. Map 1, E3; theelysianbar.com

N7

French. This quiet, tucked-away bistro is named for France’s Route Nationale 7. Escargot, steamed mussels, steak au poivre, duck a l’orange, a lovely wine list and fine service equate to total charm. D (M-Sa); Br (FSa). 1117 Montegut St. Map 1, E3; n7nola.com

PALADAR 511

Contemporary. California cooking New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5; paladar511.com

Mid-City

ADDIS NOLA

African. Eating with your hands is encouraged here. Spongy injera flatbread is perfect for pinching bits of doro wat (chicken), spicy stewed lentils and mitmita-dusted kitfo (beef) with fresh cottage cheese. D (W-M). 2514 Bayou Rd., 504.218.5321. Map 1, E2; addisnola.com

BLUE OAK BBQ

Barbecue. Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spareribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. If the barbecued pork egg rolls make a menu appearance, get them.

L, D (daily). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3; blueoakbbq.com

LIL’ DIZZY’S CAFÉ

Creole. The Baquet family is known for their award-winning trout Baquet, gumbo, fried chicken, baked macaroni and

daily specials. L (M-Sa). 1500 Esplanade Ave., 504.766.8687. Map 3, I1; lildizzyscafe.net

PARKWAY BAKERY

Louisiana The menu here is long but simple: po’boys, po’boys and more po’boys. Your choices for stuffings: roast beef, oyster, shrimp, catfish and, of course, alligator sausage—and that’s just the top of the list. L (W-Su). 538 Hagan Ave., 504.482.3047. Map 1, D2; parkwaypoorboys.com

RALPH’S ON THE PARK

Louisiana. Veteran restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. L (W-F), D (Tu-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2; ralphsonthepark.com

TOUPS’ MEATERY

Cajun. Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. L (MF), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3; toupsmeatery.com

ZASU

Seafood. James Beard Awardwinning chef Sue Zemanick goes coastal at her intimate Mid-City space: grilled baby octopus, tuna crudo, salmon with caramelized sauerkraut and dill spaetzle. D (M, W-Sa). 127 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.267.3233. Map 1, D2; zasunola.com

UPTOWN AVO

Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as gnocchi with pork ragu and veal porterhouse with marsala jus. D (Tu-Sa). 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4; restaurantavo.com

THE CHLOE

Louisiana. At this charming boutique property, chef Todd

Pulsinelli turns out steller dishes that are at once elegant and playful. Evidence the shrimp étouffée dumplings and Royal Red Shrimp Roll. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 4125 St. Charles Ave., 504.541.5500. Map 1, D4; thechloenola.com

COSTERA

Spanish. This casual spot’s Spanish-inspired menu encourages plate-sharing with a wide range of tapas (patatas bravas, beef shank-and-potato bombas), along with larger entrees such as seafood paella. D (W-M). 4938 Prytania St., 504.302.2332. Map 1, D4; costerarestaurant.com

DAKAR NOLA

African. Senegal-born chef Serigne Mbaye’s tasting menu restaurant combines the flavors of Africa and Louisiana, served in seven courses at a single 7 pm seating. D (W-Sa). 3814 Magazine St., 504493-9396. Map 1, D4; dakarnola.com

LA BOULANGERIE

Bakery. This French bakery doles out savory and sweet artisanal goods to regulars who are loyal verging on addicted. Almond or ham-and-cheese croissants make light snacks, while loaves baked with blue cheese or olives are all good enough to devour on their own. B, L (daily). 4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777. Map 1, D4; laboulangerienola.com

LA PETITE GROCERY

French. An intimate bistro with gas lighting and pressedtin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. L (Th-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4; lapetitegrocery.com

LILETTE

French. Chef John Harris’ bistro looks and feels French but makes a perfect Italian wedding soup as well. Traditional appetizers are accented with imaginative sauces, such as the escargots with Calvados cream. L (TuSa), D (M-Sa). 3637 Magazine St., 504.895.1636. Map 1, D4; liletterestaurant.com

MISTER MAO

Eclectic. The food here is as fun as the quirky interior. The “inauthentic” globally inspired menu swings from escargot Wellington to octopus with mango and cerveza jelly. D (ThM); Br (Su). 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.345.2056. Map 1, D4; mistermaonola.com

SABA

Mediterranean. Chef Alon Shaya provides a taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as harissa chicken with laurel leaves. L (F), D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine St., 504.324.7770. Map 1, D4; eatwithsaba.com

SAFFRON NOLA

Indian. Elevated Indian fare with contemporary flair. Top picks include the crabmeat pudha, rum-soaked lamb chops and the oyster bed roast. D (Tu-Sa). 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4; saffronnola.com

WISHING TOWN

BAKERY & CAFÉ

Chinese. Hong Kong-style dumplings and super-cool baked goods are on tap here. Order from the long list of dumplings, noodles, salads and soups. L, D (daily). 802 Nashville Ave., 504.533.9166; wishingtown.com

SHOPPING

Art Galleries & Antiques

A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY

The city’s most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4; agallery.com

ALEX BEARD STUDIO

This gallery features the works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger and England’s

late Princess Margaret. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4; alexbeardstudio.com

ANGELA KING GALLERY

One of the French Quarter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird and Woodrow Nash, 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4; angelakinggallery.com

ANTIEAU GALLERY

Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her French Quarter gallery. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. 719 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, G4; antieaugallery.com

ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY

One of New Orleans’ leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. 432 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5; arthurrogergallery.com

ASHLEY LONGSHORE

Step into this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4; ashleylongshore.com

BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS

The vast majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. Contemporary designs are featured at 304 Royal, while 316 Royal is home to a lighting museum where you’ll see lamps being made by hand. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 304 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; 316-318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; bevolo.com

CALLAN CONTEMPORARY

Works by modern-day American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6; callancontemporary.com

CRAIG TRACY GALLERY

The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the famed bodypainter enhances with eye-tricking imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; craigtracy.com

FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY

Award-winning photographer

Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. 440 Julia St., 504.547.5931. Map 3, H4; frankrelle.com

JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY

Home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6; jonathanferraragallery.com

KEIL’S ANTIQUES

Founded in 1899, Keil’s established its reputation with rare 18th- and 19th-century French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4; keilsantiques.com

LEMIEUX GALLERIES

Contemporary paintings, sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassworks are among the media exhibited here. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6; lemieuxgalleries.com

LEROY’S PLACE

A whimsical, weird enclave full of handmade creatures dreamed up by illustrator Serene Bacigalupi. Some are hiding in old paintings; others are displayed as 3D sculpture.

922 Royal St., 504.459.2433; leroysplace.com

M.S. RAU ANTIQUES

This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 622 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4; rauantiques.com

MARTIN LAWRENCE

GALLERIES

This branch of the nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limited-edition graphics by such famed artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol and Erté, among others. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4; martinlawrence.com

MICHALOPOULOS

The off-kilter architectural renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4; michalopoulos.com

MODERNIST CUISINE

GALLERY

Photographer Nathan Myhrvold focuses on the science of cooking and cuttingedge culinary techniques. Large-scale, limited-edition prints of his incredible edibles are offered. 305 Royal St., 504.571.5157. Map 3, F4; modernistcuisinegallery.com

MOSS ANTIQUES

Fine art objects, jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories fill this gallery. The merchandise comes primarily from England and France. 411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. Map 3, F4; mossantiques.com

MYTH GALLERY

Part animal/part human, Betsy Youngquist’s stunning beaded creations will draw you into this shared space, which also showcases the whimsical sculpture of R. Scott Long. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312. Map 3, H4; myth-gallery.com

RODRIGUE STUDIO

Devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular Blue Dog series are available. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; georgerodrigue.com

STELLA JONES GALLERY

New Orleans’ preeminent exhibition space for African American artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. 201 St. Charles Ave. #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4; stellajonesgallery.com

TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY

Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; terranceosborne.com

VINTAGE 329

A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Retro sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4; vintage329.com

WINDSOR FINE ART

This fine art gallery features original works from the old masters and masters of the Belle Époque to the modern masters and the biggest names in post-war contemporary art. Internationally renowned contemporary artists and sculpture are also featured. 221 Royal St., 504. 586.0202. Map 3, F4; windsorfineart.com

WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES

Who needs Paris when there’s Wirthmore? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660. Map 1, D4; wirthmoreantiques.com

Books & Music

BALDWIN & CO.

In addition to books geared to a wide range of interests, this popular shop also houses a coffee bar and podcast studio. 1003 Elysian Fields Ave., 504.354.1741. Map 3, I3; baldwinandcobooks.com

CRESCENT CITY BOOKS

Louisiana’s sole member of the Antiquarian Bookseller’s Association. In addition to a large selection of vintage books, the shop offers maps, prints and a friendly, knowledgeable staff. 240 Chartres St., 504.524.4997. Map 3, E3; crescentcitybooks.com

FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS

For six months in 1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldier’s Pay.” First additions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. 624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940. Map 3, G4; faulknerhousebooks.com

LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY

There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; louisianamusicfactory.com

PEACHES RECORDS

For nearly five decades, this local chain has been promoting area musicians with a large selection of New Orleans music. 4318 Magazine St., 504.282.3322. Map 1, D4

Clothing

BILLY REID

Award-winning designer Reed’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his birth state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4; billyreid.com

KILLER POBOYS

CENTURY GIRL

A bright, glittery women’s clothing and accessories emporium that steps back in time with gorgeous retro fashions and beautiful costume jewelry. 2023 Magazine St., 504.875.3105. Map 1, D4;centurygirlvintage.com

DARK GARDEN

An offshoot of the acclaimed San Francisco corsetry and couture shop famed for its customized corsets and outof-the-norm bridal wear. 3528 Magazine St., 504.417.9751. Map 1, D4; darkgarden.com/nola

DIRTY COAST

504.462.2731

Skip the tacky Bourbon Street T-shirts. Catering to locals and in-the-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. 1320 Magazine St., 504.766.0752. Map 1, E4; 5415 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4; dirtycoast.com

TRASHY DIVA

Original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories. 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; trashydiva.com

UNITED

APPAREL LIQUIDATORS

A bargain hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items. From everyday casual wear to elegant designer wear, you’ll find it here at drastically reduced prices. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4; 3306 Magazine St., 504.354.2777. Map 1, D4; shopual.com

VICE & GRAFT

The inventory at this small shop is always new, thanks to a rotating collection of bygone finds by its owner. There’s a little something for everyone who delights in collectible vintage. 927 Royal St., 505.605.0500. Map 3, H4; viceandgraft.com

WEINSTEIN’S

Elegant European women’s wear, from casual to formal,

is the specialty at this store, which features the latest by leading designers. 4011 Magazine St., 504.895.6278. Map 1, D4; weinsteinsinc.com

Gifts & Collectibles

BUNGALOWS

This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and gift items.

610 Chartres St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4; shopbungalows.com

DARK MATTER

Jars of preserved scorpions. Taxidermy mice, mummified birds and possum skulls. Eerie art and moody photography. More than 30 regional oddity artisans are represented in this macabre space. 822 Chartres St. Map 3, H5

FLEURTY GIRL

These popular boutiques are packed with Crescent City collectibles, NOLA-centric T-shirts and great gift items. 617 Chartres St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; fleurtygirl.net

FOREVER NEW ORLEANS

These shops overflow with cool keepsakes, from NOLA-themed T-shirts and tea towels to pottery and puzzles, along with a selection of local books. 308 Royal St., 504.525.0100. Map 3, F4; 606 Royal St., 504.510.4813. Map 3, G4; 700 Royal St., 504.586.3536. Map 3, G4; shopforeverneworleans.com

HEX OLD WORLD WITCHERY

A magical emporium offering everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. 1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5; hexwitch.com

NOLA BOARDS

Add a dash of Crescent City flavor to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese

boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. 4228 Magazine St., 504.256.0030. Map 1, D4; nolaboards.com

NOLA KIDS

This children’s boutique offers select apparel for boys and girls, from infant to youth, along with toys, books and great gift items. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4; shopnolakids.com

OMEN

This witchcraft shop offers psychic readings, along with candles, brooms and the city’s largest selection of tarot decks. Psychics are also available for private events. 1205 Decatur St., 504.322.7440. Map 3, I4; omensalem.com

PASSION LILIE/ BEATRIX BELL

This designer-owned boutique features handcrafted jewelry and fairtrade clothing, along with a curated collection of home accessories, bath and body goods and gift items. 831 Chartres St., 504.5070644. Map 3, H5; plbbcollective. myshopify.com

Hats, Shoes & Accessories

BELLA UMBRELLA

Cloudy skies? This shop helps keep a sunny disposition with cool rain gear, ranging from vintage parasols to its signature pagoda-style umbrellas. 2036 Magazine St., 504.302.1036. Map 1, D4; bellaumbrella.com

FLEUR DE PARIS

You’re guaranteed to turn heads when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats. Choose from original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4; fleurdeparis.shop

GOORIN BROS. HATS

The city’s newest hat shop dates to 1895, when milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s hip headwear is found nationwide.

709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; goorin.com

JON FLUEVOG

“Unique soles for unique souls.” This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4; fluevog.com

SHOE BE DO

Get a step ahead with cuttingedge women’s footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; shoebedousa.com

Jewelry

ART & EYES

The eyes have it at this chic eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; artandeyesneworleansla.com

MIGNON FAGET

Designer Faget has created extraordinary jewelry for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; mignonfaget.com

PORTER LYONS

Jewelry designer Ashley Lyons is a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations. 623 Royal St., 504.518.4945. Map 3, G4; porterlyons.com

WELLINGTON & CO.

This small space is largely devoted to antique and estate pieces, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco designs. Engagement and bridal jewelry are also featured, along with new designer lines. 505 Royal St., 504. 525.4855. Map 3, F4; wcjewelry.com

Malls/Major Retailers

CANAL PLACE

Some of world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores

include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton and Saks Fifth Avenue. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5; canalplacestyle.com

LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER

A favorite shopping stop of New Orleanians, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores. 301 Veterans Blvd., 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2; lakesideshopping.com

RIVERWALK OUTLETS

Located along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the nation’s first urban outlet center offers more than 70 shops, including Karl Lagerfeld Paris, Nordstrom Rack and Coach. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7; riverwalkneworleans.com

ATTRACTIONS

Attractions & Landmarks

ARMSTRONG PARK

Named for the late jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre greenspace is home to Congo Square, where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2

AUDUBON PARK

Walk, jog, golf or picnic among the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org

AUDUBON ZOO

Inhabited by more than 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the finest in the U.S. Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org

CITY PARK

Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 D2; neworleanscitypark.com

CRESCENT PARK

Looking for unique views of the city? Stroll along this 1.4mile riverfront promenade, which stretches from the French Quarter to the Bywater neighborhood. Map 3, J6; crescentparknola.org

DESTREHAN PLANTATION

A 30-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter, and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily: M-Th, 9 am-4:30 pm; F-Su, 10 am-5:30 pm. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 985.764.9315; destrehanplantation.org

FRENCH MARKET

America’s oldest public market. Along with homegrown specialties, it also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1008 N. Peters St., 504.636.6400. Map 3, H5; frenchmarket.org

HARRAH’S CASINO

The city’s largest casino is located at the foot of Canal Stree. The mammoth pleasure palace features 115,000 square feet of gaming space and a number of great dining venues. 228 Poydras St., 800.427.7247. Map 3, E6; caesars.com/ harrahs-new-orleans

HOUMAS HOUSE HISTORIC ESTATE AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds. A museum charting the history of River Road is also featured. Daily tours, 9:30 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La, 225.473.9380; houmashouse.com

JACKSON SQUARE

The heart of the Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5

JAMNOLA

Part Crescent City cultural museum/part Pee-wee’s Playhouse, this innovative space takes visitors on a vibrant visual journey through local life, as envisioned by 20 area artists. Open Th-M. 2832 Royal St. Map 1, E3; jamnola.com

MARDI GRAS WORLD

It’s Carnival time all year long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-5:30 pm. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8; mardigrasworld.com

NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK

This pocket-sized park celebrates Bourbon Street’s musical legacy with statues of Allen Toussaint, Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offer cool libations, lite bites and live music. 311 Bourbon St., 504.888.7608.

Map 3, F4

OLD URSULINE CONVENT

Dating to 1727, this is the oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M, Th-Sa, 10 and 11 am and 1 pm. 1112 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4; stlouiscathedral.org

PRYTANIA THEATRES AT CANAL PLACE

This state-of-the-art cinema offers nine screens, along with a full bar and private screenings. 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.290.2658. Map 3, E5; prytaniacanalplace.com

SMOOTHIE KING CENTER

Cousin to the Superdome, the Center is home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, D8; smoothiekingcenter.com

ST. BERNARD PARISH

Founded by Canary Islanders in 1778, today St. Bernard Parish is a thriving, familyoriented community and popular fishing and birding destination. Attractions include Chalmette Battlefield,

the Los Isleños Museum & Village and St. Bernard State Park. visitstbernard.com

ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL

Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Jackson Square, 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4; stlouiscathedral.org

STUDIO BE

Brandan Odums’ giant graffitistyle murals explore Black life through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X, Muhammad Ali and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Su. 2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231. Map 1, E3; studiobenola.com

VUE ORLEANS

Along with the highest viewpoint in the city, this one-of-akind, 360-degree observatory provides a crash course in local history and culture through a variety of immersive exhibits and interactive experiences. Open daily. 2 Canal St., 504.285.3600. Map 3, E6; vueorleans.com

WHITNEY PLANTATION

Opened to the public for the first time in its 265-year history, this plantation explores slavery through moving first-person accounts. Tours are offered W-M, 10 am-3 pm. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300; whitneyplantation.org

WOLDENBERG PARK

This grassy riverfront promenade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium to Jackson Square, affords great views of the Mississippi. Map 3, F6; audubonnatureinstitue.org

Museums

BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM

This offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs. Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. 1531 St. Philip St., 504.657.6700. Map 3, I2; backstreetmuseum.org

CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER

The city’s premier modern art exhibit space features rotation exhibits and also plays host to performances. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6; cacno.org

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION

This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions, along with permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; hnoc.org

LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS

The Louisiana State Museum operates a number of French Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbytère; the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. Open Tu-Su. 504.568.6968. louisianastatemuseum.org

MUSEUM OF THE SOUTHERN JEWISH EXPERIENCE

Three galleries of interactive exhibits examine Jewish life in 13 Bible Belt states, while exploring the broader concept of the great American tapestry. Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. 818 Howard Ave., 504.384.2480. Map 3, B5; msje.org

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM

This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits, including the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries.” Open daily, 9 am-5 pm. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6; nationalww2museum.org

NEW ORLEANS AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM

This repository of African American art, culture and history is located in the Faubourg Tremé, America’s oldest Black neighborhood. Rotating exhibits are featured. Neighborhood tours are also offered. Open Th-

Su, 11 am-4 pm. 1417-1418 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.218.8254. Map 3, I2; noaam.org

NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MUSEUM

The world’s largest and most comprehensive collection of jazz-related artifacts offers rotating exhibits and live performances. Open Tu-Su, 9 am-4pm. 400 Esplanade Ave (in the Old U.S. Mint), 504.568.6993. Map 3, I5; nolajazzmuseum.org

NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART

One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free sculpture garden. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-5 pm. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; noma.org

NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM

This former apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-5 pm. 514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4; pharmacymuseum.org

OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART

This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; ogdenmuseum.org

SAZERAC HOUSE

Explore the evolution of the city’s cocktail culture through a variety of exhibits, while sipping samples along the way. Free. Open Tu-Su, 11 am-6 pm. 101 Magazine St., 504.910.0100. Map 3, E5; sazerachouse.com

ENTERTAINMENT

Cruises & Tours

AIRBOAT ADVENTURES

Dive into Louisiana swamplands on guided, high-speed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Hotel pickup available for an additional fee.

504.689.2005. airboat adventures.com

CITY SIGHTSEEING

This informative doubledecker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again— at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; citysightseeing neworleans.com

CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER

Daily 2.5-hour brunch and Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and twohour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; creolequeen.com

DRINK

+ LEARN

Cocktail historian Elizabeth Pierce leads these fun and informative two-hour tippling tours through the French Quarter. 504.578.8280. drinkandlearn.com

GATORS AND GHOSTS

This tour group offers a variety of excursions, from swamp explorations to city, plantation and haunted outings. Hotel pickups and drop-offs are available. 888.481.8188. gatorsand ghosts.com

GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS

Gray Line provides a wide array of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, City, Steamboat, River Cruises—and all possible combinations. Call for tour info and reservations. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; graylineneworleans.com

HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS

Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. hauntedhistorytours.com

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ

The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Departs from Toulouse Street and the Mississippi River. 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; steamboatnatchez.com

NIGHTLIFE

Cocktails

ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75

Fine libations and classic cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.54533. Map 3, F4; arnauds.com

AVENUE PUB

The New Orleans go-to for craft beers, offering the city’s largest available selection of locally produced brews. 1732 St Charles Ave., 504.586.9243. Map 1, D3; theavenuepub.com

BAR MARILOU

With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisianaccented space is perfect for sipping an aperitif while nibbling on sophisticated bar bites, such as crisped potato stacks topped with caviar. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711. Map 3, C5; barmarilou.com

CAROUSEL BAR

Located in the Hotel Monteleone, this bar is an authentic revolving carousel . 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4; hotelmonteleone.com

CHANDELIER BAR

The Four Seasons’ aptly named lobby lounge is anchored by a dramatic 15,000-crystal centerpiece and award-winning bartender Hadi Ktiri. 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; fourseasons.com/neworleans

HOT TIN

Named after a Tennessee Williams play (the playwright once stayed here), this chic space on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel offers creative cocktails, wine by the glass and amazing views. 2031 St.

Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D3; hottinbar.com

LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP

This historic cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5; lafittesblacksmithshop.com

MARTINE’S LOUNGE

Tucked in a strip mall in nearby Metairie, this no-frills, no-attitude cocktail/wine bar is an ideal alternative to Bourbon Street’s hustle and jive. Great daily happy hour. 2347 Metairie Rd., Metairie, 504.831.8637.

Map 1, C2

PAL’S LOUNGE

Friendly bartenders, strong pours and rotating food pop-ups make this casual, Mid-City neighborhood spot a local favorite. 949 Rendon St., 504.488.7257. Map 1, D2.

PAT O’BRIEN’S

Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; patobriens.com

THE PEACOCK ROOM

It’s worth stepping into the Hotel Fontenot just to see this incredibly pretty space. While there, you might as well order a few craft cocktails. 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.571.1818. Map 3, E5; hotelfontenot.com

THE PENTHOUSE CLUB

This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and most popular along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4; penthouseclub neworleans.com

PEYCHAUD’S

Classic cocktails—Sazeracs, French 75s, Ramos Gin Fizzes— in a classic French Quarter setting, where the inventor of Peychaud’s bitters once lived.

727 Toulouse St. Map 3, G4; maisondeville.com

SAZERAC BAR

Thirties elegance and classic quaffs inside the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 7130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; therooseveltneworleans.com

THE WILL & THE WAY

Tucked between Bourbon and Royal, this not-so-hidden gem offers a low-key vibe, well-crafted cocktails and an elevated, easy-to-digest bar bites menu. 719 Toulouse St. thewillandthe way.com

Live Entertainment

BLUE NILE

This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. 532 Frenchmen St. Map, J5; bluenilelive.com

D.B.A.

A Frenchmen Street must-do featuring 20 draught beers, fine tequilas and single malts and live music nightly. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5; dbaneworleans.com

THE FILLMORE

Harrah’s Casino ups the city’s live-music ante with this 22,000-sq.-ft. offshoot of the legendary San Francisco venue, which features top-tier national touring acts. 6 Canal St., 504.881.1555. Map 3, E6; fillmorenola.com

HOUSE OF BLUES

The New Orleans branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, mixing big-name tours with homegrown favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; hob.com

THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE

This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. A rotating roster of top-tier local talent

is featured; retro burlesque on Fridays. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map 3, F4; sonesta.com

MAPLE LEAF

A tin roof and a sweaty dance floor make for a quintessential N’awlins experience fueled by funk from Crescent City greats. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3; mapleleafbar.com

MUSIC BOX VILLAGE

Make your own kind of music at this whimsical wonderland, where ramshackle huts double as instruments. The one-of-akind open-air venue also hosts live performances. 4557 N. Rampart St., Map 1, E3; musicboxvillage.com

PRESERVATION HALL

Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this beloved nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4; preservationhall.com

SNUG HARBOR

An intimate mainstay of Frenchmen Street’s music row. Two sets nightly. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4; snugjazz.com

THE SPOTTED CAT

This tiny club has a casual, laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) . 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5; spottedcatmusicclub.com

TIPITINA’S

The legendary Tips offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; tipitinas.com

TOULOUSE THEATRE

This French Quarter music venue takes its name from a former performance space in the same location. Local acts share billing with visiting headliners. 615 Toulouse St., 504.571.9771. Map 3, G5; toulousetheatre.com

NEW ORLEANS

MAP 1:

NEW ORLEANS METRO & JEFFERSON PARISH

MAP 2: SOUTH LOUISIANA

MAP 3: CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT & FRENCH QUARTER

AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4

AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5

AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4

AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4

BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4

LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3

BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5

BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5

BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5

BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4

CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6

CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4

CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F3

CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7

DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3

CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4

DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3

DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5

DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4

EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5

EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7

FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4

FS Four Seasons, 2 Canal St., 434-5100 E6

FR The Frenchmen, 417 Frenchmen St., 688-2900 J5

HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4

HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 B8

HR Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6

HH Higgins Hotel & Conference Center, 1000 Magazine St., 528-1941 B6

HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4

HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7

HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7

SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4

FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5

HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3

HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3

HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5

HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4

HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3

HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5

HF Hotel Fontenot, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6

LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4

MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4

PP Hotel Peter & Paul, 2317 Burgundy St., 365-5200 K5

PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5

SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4

SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3

HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4

HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7

HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3

IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4

IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5

JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4

JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2

LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5

LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5

LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6

LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4

LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6

MZ Maison de la Luz, 546 Carondelet St., 814.7720 C5

MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3

MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4

MW Marriott Warehouse Arts District, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 577-1520 C7

ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4

90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4

NO NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4

OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 F3

OR Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 D7

OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4

OE One11 Hotel, 111 Iberville St., 699.8100 E6

PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5

PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4

PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6

PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4

QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5

RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6

PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4

RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6

RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4

RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3

RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5

RF Royal Frenchmen, 700 Frenchmen St., 619-9660 J4

RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4

RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4

SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5

ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5

SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7

VH Virgin Hotels New Orleans, 550 Baronne St., 833-791-7700 C4

WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4

WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5

WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5

WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6

WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 D4

WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

PARTING SHOT

Art in the Open Detail of sculptor Isidore Konti’s circa-1919 Gumbel Memorial Fountain in Audubon Park (p. 32), one of many public artworks populating the city’s numerous greenspaces.