Welcome to zagreb 2017 en

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Zagreb May 02-07 2017 Guide for visitors to Zagreb Prepared by:  selection of photos and text: students  editing and design: Gabrijela Čorković , prof.

Erasmus+ students exchange – May 02-07, 2017

Zagreb

History Zagreb, Croatia is a city with a rich history dating from Roman times to the present day.

The oldest settlement in the urban area of the city is Andautonia, a Roman settlement in the place of today's Ščitarjevo, which dates back to the first century AD. The first recorded appearance of the name Zagreb is dated to 1094, at which time the city existed as two different city centers: the smaller, eastern Kaptol, inhabited mainly by clergy and housing Zagreb Cathedral, and the larger, western Gradec, inhabited mainly by farmers and merchants. Gradec and Zagreb were united in 1851 by ban Josip Jelačić, who was credited for this, with the naming the main city square, Ban Jelačić Square in his honour.

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Erasmus+ students exchange – May 02-07, 2017

Manduševac Fountain The Manduševac Fountain was built above a natural spring that provided Zagreb with drinking water right up until the end of the 19th century.

Court records about the persecution of witches mention the spring as their main meeting point.

BAN JELAČIĆ SQUARE Ban Jelačić Square is the central square of the city of Zagreb, named after ban Josip Jelačić.

The official name is Trg bana Jelačića. It is colloquially referred to as Jelačić plac or simply Trg ("the square").

It is the center of the Zagreb Downtown pedestrian zone.

The square features a large statue of ban Josip Jelačić on a horse, created by Austrian sculptor Anton Dominik Fernkorn. The statue was originally installed on October 19, 1866 by Austrian authorities, despite protests from Zagreb councilmen. It was oriented towards the north, with his sword raised against Hungary, to commemorate his battle against Hungary in the Hungarian Revolution of 1848.

The statue was removed in 1947 as the new Communist government of Yugoslavia denounced Jelačić as a “servant of foreign interests”.

Antun Bauer, a curator of the Gliptoteka gallery, kept it in the gallery cellar. The square was renamed Trg Republike (Republic Square).

There is also a legend connecting the spring with the name of the city. Namely, one sunny day an old Croatian war leader was returning from battle tired and thirsty, and asked a beautiful girl Manda to scoop up some water from the spring for him.

The Croatian word for “to scoop up water” is “zagrabiti”.

So the spring got the name Manduševac, after the girl, and the town got the name Zagreb after the scoop of water.

Erasmus+ students exchange – May 02-07, 2017

THE CATHEDRAL

Virgin Mary with angels Blessed Virgin Mary And Four Angels Fountain is located on the square in front of the Zagreb Cathedral.

In 1873, after the cathedral had been reconstructed, a fountain designed by Hermann Bolle was built in front of the cathedral.

The Austrian sculptor Fernkorn was responsible for the gold-plated statues of the Virgin Mary and four angels, the latter symbolizing the Christian virtues of Faith, Hope, Innocence and Humility.

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Characterized by its soaring twin towers, the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary is one of Zagreb’s defining symbols.

A huge earthquake in 1880 did enormous damage to the cathedral, and it was reconstructed along Neo -Gothic lines, a style that was popular across Europe at that time.

Although it is a largely Neo-Gothic structure dating from the late 19th century, its origins are much older.

Local architect Herman Bolle was in charge of the project, although the blueprints were provided by Austrian designer Friedrich von Schmidt. Thus the cathedral took on its present-day shape with its slender 105-metre-high towers dominating the Zagreb skyline.

The expansion of the Ottoman Empire put Zagreb within range of enemy raids, and the cathedral was fortified by adding a turreted outer wall. Once the danger of invasion had passed, a single belltower was built in the 17th century.

Erasmus+ students exchange – May 02-07, 2017 Dolac Market Dolac is a farmers' market located in Gornji Grad.

Dolac is the most visited and the best known farmer's market in Zagreb, well known for its combination of traditional open market with stalls and a sheltered market below.

It is located only a few dozen meters away from the main city square, Ban Jelačić Square, in the middle between the oldest parts of Zagreb, Gradec and Kaptol.

Kumica Barica, a traditional Dolac seller

Tkalčićeva Street Undoubtedly Zagreb’s most colourful downtown street, Tkalčićeva (“Tkalča”) is built along the course of the former Medveščak creek, traditional boundary between the settlements of Kaptol and Gradec.

Most of Zagreb’s watermills were concentrated around the creek, and in

the 18th century it became the site of workshops producing cloth, soap, paper and liqueurs.

The creek was paved over at the end of the 19th century, creating a street that quickly became the animated centre of commercial activity and nightlife.

Today people of all ages come to Tkalča for its small boutiques, traditional shops, restaurants and cafes.

Marija Jurić Zagorka (1873 – 1957) was a Croatian journalist, novelist and dramatist.

She was the first female journalist and among the most read writers in Croatia.

Erasmus+ students exchange – May 02-07, 2017

Bloody Bridge This alley connecting Tkalčićeva with Radićeva is called “Bloody Bridge” (Krvavi most in Croatian) because it was the location of a bridge that connected Gradec and Kaptol and a spot perfectly set for their frequent squabbles.

The bridge itself was torn down in 1899.

The Stone Gate The eastern gate to medieval Gradec Town, now a shrine.

According to legend, a great fire in 1731 destroyed every part of the wooden gate except for the painting of the Virgin and Child by an unknown 17th century artist.

People believe that the painting possesses magical powers and come regularly to pray before it and leave flowers.

On the western façade of the Stone Gate you'll see a statue of Dora, the heroine of an 18th-century historical novel who lived with her father next to the Stone Gate.

Public Gas Lighting Both the Upper Town and Kaptol have retained the gas streetlights that date back to the beginning of the 19th century.

Every day at sunset two lamp lighters (the so-called “nažigači”) light more than 200 gas lanterns in the streets.

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Erasmus+ students exchange – May 02-07, 2017

ST MARK’S SQUARE St Mark’s Church The Romanesque window found in its south facade is the best evidence that the church must have been built as early as the 13th century as is also the semicircular groundplan of St. Mary's chapel (later altered).

In the second half of the 14th century the church was radically reconstructed. It was then turned into a late Gothic church of the threenave type.

The Parliament (Sabor) The Croatian Parliament has been a democratic, multiparty legislature since 1990.

According to the 1990 Constitution, the Croatian Parliament may have a minimum of 100 and a maximum of 160 members, who are elected directly by secret ballot based on universal suffrage for a term of four years. Currently the Croatian Parliament has 151 members who were elected on 4 December 2011.

Erasmus+ students exchange – May 02-07, 2017 The Funicular Its 66-metre track makes it one of the shortest public-transport funiculars in the world.

The funicular was built in 1890 and has been in operation since April 23, 1893. Initially it had steam engines, which were substituted with electrical in 1934.

Having in mind that it kept its original shape, constructional and most of the technical properties, it was given legal protection as a monument of culture.

The Lotrščak Tower The Lotrščak Tower (Croatian: Kula Lotrščak) is a fortified tower which dates to the 13th century.

It was built to guard the southern gate of the Gradec town wall. The name is derived from Latin campana latrunculorum ('thieves' bell'), referring to a bell hung in the tower in 1646 to signal the closing of the town gates.

In the 19th century a fourth floor and windows were added to the Lotrščak Tower and a cannon was placed on the top, called the Grič cannon. The cannon is fired every day at noon.

Museum of Broken Relationships The Museum of Broken Relationships is a museum dedicated to failed love relationships. Its exhibits are personal objects left over from former lovers which are accompanied by brief descriptions. At first a traveling collection of donated items, the museum has since found a permanent location in Zagreb. In 2011, the Museum received the Kenneth Hudson Award for the most innovative museum in Europe.

The museum was founded by two Zagreb-based artists, who, after their four-year love relationship came to an end in 2003, joked about setting up a museum to house the left-over personal items. Three years later, they started asking their friends to donate objects left behind from their breakups, and the collection was born.

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Erasmus+ students exchange – May 02-07, 2017

The First Fountain

ZRINJEVAC PARK In a city that has more than its fair share of green squares, Zrinjevac is arguably the best loved of them all.

In the late 19th century it was transformed from a meadow where cattle markets took place into an elegant promenade with plane trees imported from Trieste, a wrought iron bandstand, fountains and busts of notable figures.

The square gets its name from Nikola Šubić Zrinski (1508–1566), a famed Croatian Ban. The southern part of Zrinjevac sports busts of significant Croatian people. In the middle of the park is a music pavilion built in 1891.

The Meteorological Post Since 1884 weather conditions have been recorded on the meteorological pole here.

It was a present to the city of Zagreb by Adolf Holzer, a physician. You can stand next to the marble post and check the temperature and air pressure and coordinate your watch with a 24-hour dial.

In the 19th century numerous wealthy citizens donated valuable public facilities to the city, among them the nearby bandstand.

The first fountain in Zagreb was built shortly after the opening of the Zagreb waterworks in 1878.

It was designed by architect Herman Bolle and serves as a place to find refreshment during hot summer days.

Because of its swelling and organic shape, the fountain is popularly known as “The Mushroom”.

Erasmus+ students exchange – May 02-07, 2017

Mercury Margaretska 3

Venus Ban Jelačić Square 3

Earth

The Grounded Sun

Varšavska 9

The Šun sits in Zagreb—Bogovic eva Štreet

Z AGREB’S SOLAR SYSTEM

Mars Tkalčićeva 21

It has been known that Zagreb has a Sun. Actually, a Grounded Sun, sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. It changed a few locations over the years but it has been situated in Bogovićeva street since 1994.

The Grounded Sun has been a source of inspiration for many artists.

Among them is a designer Davor Preis, who made an installation called Nine Views in 2004 – he placed nine models of planets all over Zagreb, which, along with the Kožarić’s Sun form a model of the Solar System.

The planets’ sizes and distances from the Grounded Sun are in the same scale as the Grounded Sun itself.

Neptune Kozari Way

Uranus Siget 9

Jupiter Voćarska 71

Saturn Račićeva 1

Pluto Bologna Alley

Erasmus+ students exchange – May 02-07, 2017 Zagreb Central Station Zagreb Central Station is the principal railway station in Zagreb and the largest in Croatia. It is located on King Tomislav Square in the centre of Zagreb.

The construction of the building started in 1890 and was officially opened in 1892. The project was overseen by Hungarian architect Ferenc Pfaff.

King Tomislav King Tomislav was a ruler of Croatia in the Middle Ages.

He reigned from 910 until 928, first as Duke of Dalmatian Croatia in 910–925, and then became first King of the Croatian Kingdom in 925–928.

Tomislav is celebrated as the founder of the first united Croatian state. In the Croatian capital of Zagreb, there is a square dedicated to Tomislav. A monument in Zagreb by sculptor Robert Frangeš Mihanović was raised in his honor.

The Botanical Gardens Every spring since the late 19th century the gardens have opened their gates to the public. Pride of the gardens is the collection of 10,000 or more plant species, ranging from exotic imports to indigenous Croatian plants.

The gardens are open until sundown and entrance is free of charge, but there are strict rules governing behaviour. It is forbidden to walk on the grass, shout, ride a bicycle or pick flowers.

The greenery, the wonderful scents and a general sense of peace constitute a true oasis in the centre of the city.

The gardens are located on Mihanovićeva, named after the author of Croatia’s national anthem, Antun Mihanović.

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Erasmus+ students exchange – May 02-07, 2017

The Well of Life Placed in front of the National Theatre in 1912, the Well of Life is one of Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović’s most popular works.

Dating from Meštrovic ’s youthful, playful period, it is a sensual piece of work that many believe to be among his best. It basically consists of a circular pool surrounded by a bronze frieze of intertwined nude figures.

From children to loving couples and old people, the figures appear to be reaching over the lip of the fountain to scoop up the water, suggesting a universal theme of human zest for life and interdependence.

Statue of St George killing the dragon The theme of St George killing the dragon has been a popular motif since medieval times, symbolizing the struggle between good and evil and the victory of Christianity over paganism.

This particular portrayal of the saint was produced by Austrian sculptor Anton Fernkorn. The original made its way to a nobleman’s palace in Vienna in 1853, although a zinc cast was brought to Zagreb. This bronze copy was placed at its current location in 1908, since when the virtuous knight has been on display killing the dragon for just over a century.

Statue of Antun Gustav Matoš Visitors can soak in the view of central Zagreb in the company of poet Antun Gustav Matoš (1873-1914), whose statue sits on a bench beside Strossmayer Promenade.

Although not born in Zagreb, Matos grew to become one of the city’s greatest enthusiasts, writing frank and outspoken newspaper columns that extolled the bohemian life of the city. He also wrote some of the best-loved poems in the Croatian language. Matoš packed a lot into his relatively short life, and is remembered as something of an archetypal rebel and dreamer.

Ivan Kožarić’s sculpture of Matoš was placed on the promenade in 1978.

Erasmus+ students exchange – May 02-07, 2017 Croatian National Theatre The Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb is a theatre, opera and ballet house owned and operated by the Ministry of Culture.

The theatre evolved out of the first city theatre built in 1836 housed in the present-day Old City Hall. In 1895 it moved to the new purpose-built building on Marshal Tito Square. AustroHungarian emperor Franz Joseph I was at the unveiling of this new building. The building itself was the project of famed Viennese architects Ferdinand Fellner and Herman Helmer, whose firm had built several theatres in Vienna.

The theatre has also seen many international artists.

Cibona Tower The tower was built in 1987 for the Universiade that was held in Zagreb that year.

It is 92 meters tall, and it has 25 levels above ground. There is a radio mast on the roof, which increases the height of the tower to 105 meters. In 2007 Cibona Tower was ranked 3rd by height (2nd when you include the antenna) in Croatia.

The tower is a part of the complex that comprises lower business objects, a 5,400seat basketball hall (BC Cibona), and an art installation.

The Technical Museum Housed in an innovative wooden pavilion dating from the 1950, the museum displays a host of notable scientific and technological achievements. Exhibits range from horse-drawn trams to space capsules, and visitors can even visit a replica mine-shaft or take part in experiments devised by the great Nikola Tesla.

The main hall of the museum is taken up with a fascination display of vintage road vehicles and old airplanes. Croatia was a home to important innovators: along with Tesla, we can also mention Faust Vrančić and Ruđer Bošković, and you can learn something about all of them in the Technical Museum.

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Erasmus+ students exchange – May 02-07, 2017

JARUN LAKE Southwest of the city centre lies the man-made Lake Jarun, Zagreb’s veryown riviera.

Consisting of a big and a small lake connected by a channel, Jarun was created by the digging of gravel from the backwaters of the Sava after the catastrophic flood of 1964. Jarun was developed into a recreation era in time for the World Student Games, which were held in Zagreb in 1987.

Rowing facilities, sports grounds and cycling tracks were added, making Jarun the largest sports and recreational centre in the city. During the day Jarun can be teeming with people, whether they are simply out for a walk or engaged in more serious athletic training.

The lakeside pebble beaches fill with bathers during the summer. In the evening, cafes and clubs along the lakefront attract people looking for a fun night out.

Erasmus+ students exchange – May 02-07, 2017

THE SAVA RIVER With a length of 940 km, the river Sava is one of the three longest rivers in Croatia, rising in Slovenia and flowing southeast to join the Danube in Belgrade.

The river has always played an important role in the development of Zagreb. The city originally developed on the left bank of the Sava, but after World War II it spread to its right bank with the creation of the new parts of the city known as Novi Zagreb.

In the past the river guarded the city from enemies but also posed a threat to when its waters rose and led to flooding. After the great flood of 1964, the flow of the Sava was tamed by building canals and earthen banks on either side of the river, which now serve as foot- and cycle-paths.

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Erasmus+ students exchange – May 02-07, 2017

The Museum of Contemporary Art This is the biggest and most modern museum in the country.

The museum traces its origins from the City Gallery of Contemporary Art which was established in 1954. The gallery was located at the Kulmer Palace in the Upper Town area and also housed the Center for Photography, Film and Television and a museum library.

Due to lack of space the museum never had a permanent display. The new museum finally opened on 11 December 2009, after six years and 450 million HRK (around 84 million US$). The building has a total area of 14,600 m2 and the building also houses a library, a multimedia hall, a bookstore, cafe and a restaurant.

Statue of Većeslav Holjevac Većeslav Holjevac was a Croatian and Yugoslav soldier and communist politician.

In 1952 he was named mayor of Zagreb, a post he held until 1963. As such, he is credited with many important construction projects that modernised the city, most notably the creation of Novi Zagreb. He also successfully lobbied for establishment of Zagreb trade fair.

A major thoroughfare of Zagreb, Većeslav Holjevac Avenue is named after him.

National and University Library National and University Library in Zagreb is the national library of Croatia and central library of the University of Zagreb.

The national library was founded in 1607. Its primary mission is the development of the national literary corpus. It has around 2.5 million books.

The Library is currently located in a standalone building in the center of Trnje on the Hrvatske bratske zajednice street, where it moved in 1995. The building is the work of renowned Croatian architects and its construction took six years (1978-1984).

Erasmus+ students exchange – May 02-07, 2017 Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall The Hall opened in 1973.

Vatroslav Lisinski (1819–1854) was the composer of the first ever Croatian opera, Love and Malice.

16th Meridian Monument Zagreb lies on the 16th meridian east.

The meridian 16 east of Greenwich is a line of longitude that extends from the North Pole across the Arctic Ocean, Europe, Africa, the Atlantic Ocean, the Southern Ocean, and Antarctica to the South Pole.

Statue of August Šenoa August Šenoa (1838–1881) was a Croatian novelist, critic, editor, poet, and dramatist.

He was a transitional figure, who helped bring Croatian literature from Romanticism to Realism and introduced the historical novel to Croatia.

He was born in Vlaška Street and for that is commemorated by the streetcorner sculpture of him leaning against an advertising pillar which is inscribed with one of Šenoa’s poems, eulogizing the beautiful and proud city which he loved.

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Erasmus+ students exchange – May 02-07, 2017

MAKSIMIR PARK Main attraction in the eastern part of the city is Maksimir Park, a leafy oasis of greenery first opened as a public promenade by Bishop Maksimilijan Vrhovac in 1794.

It was Vrhovac who arranged for the existing oak woods and meadows to be transformed into gardens in the French style. The resulting park was named Maksimir (“mir” being Croatian for peace) in honour of its founder.

Occupying one corner of the park, Zagreb Zoo has grown considerably since the early 20th century, when it opened to the public with a modest collection of three foxes and three owls. Today it is home to 275 animal species, and occupies a 7-hectare area of beautifully laid-out flowerbeds and shrubs.

Opposite the Park you can visit Maksimir Stadium, home to FC Dinamo Zagreb.

Erasmus+ students exchange – May 02-07, 2017

MEDVEDNICA MOUNTAIN Zagreb is one of the few cities lucky enough to have a mountain right on its doorstep. Protected as a nature reserve, Mount Medvednica shelters Zagreb from cold northern winds.

The mountain gets its name from the bears (medvjedi) who used to roam its wooded slopes, although none of the beasts remain on the mountain today. The 1,035-metre summit of Medvednica, known as Sljeme, is a popular destination for local hikers. Trails lead from Zagreb’s suburbs right to the top, where mountain lodges serve hearty portions of grah (traditional bean stew) to those eager to restore their strength. The ski tracks on the northern slopes of Sljeme regularly host World Cup skiing events, with both men’s and women’s downhill events taking place in January.

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Erasmus+ students exchange – May 02-07, 2017

SNOW QUEEN TROPHY Snow Queen Trophy is the name of a men’s and women’s slalom race held in Zagreb as part of the Alpine Skiing World Cup. It has been held on the Medvednica mountaintop Sljeme since 2005. The race is held on the Red Run on Medvednica starting at 985 meters and ending at 785 meters. It is the only race in the World Cup that is held in a capital city.

The race was originally called the “Golden Bear”, but later the name was changed in honor of JANICA KOSTELIĆ whose victories in the sport helped gain the race for the city of Zagreb.

Women's race winners 2005 – Tanja Poutiainen, FIN 2006 – Marlies Schild, AUT 2007 – Marlies Schild, AUT 2008 – Tanja Poutiainen, FIN 2009 – Maria Riesch, GER 2010 – Sandrine Aubert, FRA 2011 – Marlies Schild, AUT 2012 – Marlies Schild, AUT 2013 – Mikaela Shiffrin, USA

Men's race winners 2008 – Mario Matt, AUT 2009 – Jean-Baptiste Grange, FRA 2010 – Giuliano Razzoli, ITA 2011 – Andre Myhrer, SWE 2012 – Marcel Hirscher, AUT 2013 – Marcel Hirscher, AUT

Erasmus+ students exchange – May 02-07, 2017

MEDVEDGRAD CASTLE Medvedgrad, a medieval fortified town located on the south slopes of Medvednica mountain. For defensive purposes it was built on a hill, Mali Plazur, that is a spur of the main ridge of the mountain that overlooks the city.

Below the main tower of the castle is Oltar Domovine (Altar of the homeland) which is dedicated to the fallen Croatian soldiers in the Croatian War of Independence.

The fortress was constructed after the Mongol invasion of 1242 when the city of Zagreb was destroyed and burned to the ground. It was built by Philippe, bishop of Zagreb, between 1249 and 1254; later it was owned by bans of Slavonia. After an earthquake in 1590, the fortress was heavily damaged and abandoned. It remained in ruins until recently when it was partly restored and now offers a panoramic view of the city from an altitude of over 500 meters.

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Erasmus+ students exchange – May 02-07, 2017 Arcades:

Franjo Tuđman’s grave:

MIROGOJ CEMETARY Zagreb’s main cemetery, Mirogoj, crowns a low hill just outside the city centre.

Built by Hermann Bollé in 1876 on a plot of land owned by the linguist Ljudevit Gaj, it is a wonderful example of a grand civic graveyard, featuring monumental arcades, domed gatehouses and pavilion chapels.

Opened in 1876 with the funeral of fencing instructor Miroslav Singer, Mirogoj is the last resting place of many eminent Croats, their beautifully sculpted grave memorials giving the whole place the appearance of a park-like outdoor art gallery. Mirogoj accommodates people of all religions, which is why Catholic, Orthodox and Muslim symbols can be seen on many of the gravestones.

Dražen Petrović’s grave:

WELCOME TO ZAGREB

AND CROATIA !!!