ISSUE 7
Marcus Samuelsson
On bringing Red Rooster from Harlem to Shoreditch
Erik Lorincz
Why bartending is all in the details
Baranowitz + Kronenberg A design agency breaking the mould of hotel F&B
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CONTENTS
Setting
SPECIALS
Entrée 011
Starters
I’ll Have What They’re Having
Glorietta Trattoria
SIPPING Cocktails 043
Jamboree
Appetizers 015
iBis Style Manchester Portland Hotel
Trends and concepts impacting the world of
The Provocateur Bar
global hotel F&B
Provocateur, Berlin L.A. Thompson
Fear The Jungle
087
Gong, Shangri-La at The Shard, London
Anvil, Jackson 044
Cold Fashioned
088
Fine Food Bar, Austin Motel 046
The Five
090
Punch Room, The London Edition 048
Thompson Nashville Yuxi
050
SERVICE
Drinks Al Fresco 64 - A Chivas Bar
Hilton Jinan South Hotel
Serving Stories Main Course Under The Curtain
092
lebua, Bangkok
020
The Ned
Marcus Samuelsson discusses a new home
The Ned, London
for Red Rooster
Cafe Colonial
096
The Bold and The Beautiful 102 052
Memoirs of a Maison
108
056
Memmo Principe Real, Lisbon In the Details
024
Hermsos y Malditos
Head bartender at The Savoy’s American
Totem Madrid
Bar, Erik Lorincz discusses standards and
The Restaurant at Address
inspiration
Address Boulevard, Dubai The Galloping Major
A Fitting Pair
030
060
076
1477
hotel F&B: Alon Baranowitz and Irene
Hotel Camiral, Catalunya
080
Petits Fours 139 The Washing Up
Kronenberg Music to the Ears
Events 120 The Art of the Meal 132
Oddfellows on the Park, Manchester
Two of the most sought-after names in
SIDES
064
152
Barny Ingram, Gorgeous Group 036
An often-unconsidered afterthought, background music is getting its moment in
SPREAD
the limelight Turkish Delights
067
A taste of Anatolia at Ruya, Grosvenor House Hotel, Dubai
005
Setting
“It’s so important to have diverse narratives. We’re just people. We want to work and we want to show that we have worth.” Chef Marcus Samuelsson on diversity in the industry.
ENTRée
I’ll Have What They’re Having.
T
o say my Portuguese is rusty would be an understatement: a
competing with the well-bedded establishments around; which, of course,
combination of commonly known basic greetings and disparate
it is. It was never enough to create a soulless space intended only to provide
phrases gleaned from fado, bossa nova and Capitão Fausto. But in
sustenance, or to present a vision and taste of Lisbon as outsiders imagine
the lounges, restaurants and bars of Portugal’s hotels it’s practically
it. Instead it was vital to represent modern Lisbon as it is, particularly if the
a moot point, surrounded as I usually am by a chorus of international
venue is to appeal to those who have no need for a parody of their own city.
languages and English in varying accents. It somewhat typifies the
I recently sat down with Chef Marcus Samuelsson at Red Rooster at The
experience of travel - hotels, by nature, homes for those away from home.
Curtain, in London’s Shoreditch. He explained how the neighbourhood
I’m at Memmo Príncipe Real, part of a small family of three hotels under
was, for him, the biggest pull with regards to the partnership between
the Memmo name and a member of Design Hotels. From the terrace it
restaurant and hotel and why, as a diverse, creative community, it
seems to lie languidly atop Lisbon, located in an elevated neighbourhood
represents the Red Rooster customer. But the Shoreditch venue feels a
from which the city slopes down to the Tagus estuary. Sat with an early-
different beast when compared to the Harlem original, not just in look
evening cocktail, the view is compelling, particularly as the sun slips behind
and feel, but in spirit – a spirit created by guests who reflect the unique
the horizon and the cityscape below is blanketed in shades of indigo.
character of London, drawn in by an approach that equally embodies the
The restaurant and bar are busy and lively chatter ebbs through the air,
capital’s distinct sensibility. In many ways little mind is given to those
but as my ear involuntarily grasps for familiar intonations, surprisingly
sleeping just a few floors above, and the vast majority of those destined to
it finds only the rise and fall of Portuguese. I’m predominantly in the
chow down on the restaurant’s Obama short ribs will never see the inside
company of Lusophones, it would seem.
of a guestroom.
It gets me thinking about the new nature of hotel F&B, which ostensibly
So when it comes to urban hotel F&B, is the staying guest now irrelevant?
caters to the staying guest, but where the ‘local’ is now key – with city
Well, even the weary traveller no longer wishes to eat, drink and socialise
residents capable of filling a bar or restaurant and keeping those cheques
in a spot that feels designated for visitors, and I struggle to imagine a more
flowing, regardless of room occupancy rates.
off-putting adjective than ‘touristy’. Therefore, appealing to city residents
Even when it comes to staying guests, the contemporary urban traveller
has a role to play here too, acting as they do like one side of a Velcro strip
now has a voracious appetite for the native, seeking out neighbourhood
that savvy travellers will stick to in search of an authentic, local experience.
destinations that are part of the fabric of the city; destined to waft through
And so if the hotel guest is irrelevant, then it’s perhaps only when thinking
the cut-and-paste hotel restaurants of old, barely stopping to glance at
about how restaurant and bar concepts are developed. After all, create a
the menu.
space that is of sufficient quality and relevance, and it will provide a worthy
For Rodrigo Machaz, Memmo Príncipe Real’s GM, the goal for Café
and attractive destination for locals and hotel guests alike.
Colonial - the hotel’s restaurant and cocktail bar - was always to appeal to
The lesson? Whilst hotels may function as homes away from home,
a resident crowd. But in this hip corner of the city, where cool bars and cafes
and can capitalise on slick designs and concepts that are consistent from
jostle for room among design stores and increasingly pricey apartments, it
continent to continent and city to city, the F&B should feel at home already
took more than mere lip service to the notion of ‘neighbourhood’ to create
and embody an all-together more individual character. The other lesson
a sense of belonging: it was built into the venue’s DNA. Café Colonial was
of course, is that if I want to strike up a conversation at the hotel bar in
approached with the mind-set of a standalone. The same consideration
Lisbon, in this new world - where the local market is king - I better start
was given to design, menu and attitude as if it were opening by itself and
working on my Portuguese.
Harry McKinley | Editor
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THE BRIGADE
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Marketing
Harry McKinley h.mckinley@mondiale.co.uk
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Design
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APPETISERS
Back in Black
An inky black concoction has been appearing on the
a drink mixed for both good health and as a creative talking
shelves of health food stores and in the hands of
point.
fitness bloggers recently. An ominous shade of deep
“Brent loved the ‘black-blueish’ colour of the charcoal,
obsidian, seductive and mysterious in equal measure,
as it’s not something you see in nature very often,” she
the mix may initially appear off-putting to some,
adds. “He wanted to create something unique that added the
but contained within is a once-fringe health fad now
mystique of the unexpected colour. Similar in colour to the
making inroads into the wider public consciousness.
inky forbidden rice, guests want to try it because it looks so remarkable.”
Activated charcoal, long used by the rich and famous as a teeth
Following hot on the heels of an endlessly photographed
whitener, and by emergency rooms to treat poisoning and
unicorn craze, which saw chefs and mixologists creating
overdoses, has become a favourite for F&B experimentalists,
the most colourful creations their ingredients allowed, the
thanks in part to its wildly effective detoxification properties
popularity of charcoal could be seen as a reaction to this; a
as well as the striking aesthetic possibilities it offers.
return to more elegant and minimal serving ideals, complete
Helping to rid the body of toxins by means of absorption, the carbon structure binds to heavy metals, cholesterol,
with an added wellness kick to counteract the sugary pinks of its predecessors.
chemicals and all manner of other unwanted presences – a
Charcoal ice cream, burgers, macarons and toast - which
pressure wash for the gut, in essence. Meanwhile, the unique
looks burnt but isn’t - have all emerged as a result, with
shade it produces when mixed with spirits - somewhere
the black stuff boasting virtually no taste to intrude on the
between cosmic black hole and imposing onyx - creates a
experience.
drink with the power to turn heads, an essential trait in an
“The drink definitely encourages questions,” Roach
increasingly presentation-oriented and social media-driven
concludes. “It’s great to see the surprise on our guests’ faces
market.
when we describe the drink, and then their pleasure when
“Charcoal is a detox agent, and even said to aid with
we deliver one to their table. It’s definitely a head-turner.”
hangovers,” explains Jess Roach, Bar Manager at Hotel San
Encouraging interaction between guests and staff, and
Jose, an urban bungalow-style boutique hotel in Austin,
further, engagement between guests and their drinks,
Texas. Created together with Brent Fogerty of Cold Ones Pops,
ingredients like activated charcoal could potentially boost
Roach’s Activated Pop Shandy, which combines a charcoal
both immune system and follower count.
lemonade ice pop with Shiner Light Blonde or prosecco, offers
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APPETISERS
Break Smart, Not Fast.
Breakfast: is it still the most important meal of the day?
embraces local and concept driven breakfast menus, one
From England’s Full Monty to the Polish dish egg dish
that is also aligned with the hotel brand.”
Jajecznica; from the Middle Eastern shakshuka to the
Not content with serving guests limited, unimaginative
Japanese miso soup with rice and grilled fish, it is the food
breakfasts, Butler and Hyatt’s approach is one of variety,
that kicks us into gear, making the commute or a glance at
region and opportunity. By offering menus incorporating a
the full-to-the-brim daybreak inbox a touch less gruelling.
destination’s characteristics and traditional ingredients, as well as tapping guest preference for local sourcing – such as
On an empty morning stomach studies have shown that
bread from a 200-year-old family owned bakery at Andaz
mood and energy levels suffer, cognitive functions are
Amsterdam – Hyatt is able to provide guests with a hearty
dulled and, over the long term, skipping the meal puts us
start to the day as well as insights into national culture.
at greater risk of heart and metabolic defects.
and country you are staying in,” Butler continues. “It can tell
to make the most of their time in increasingly exotic
you about the hotel’s overall food and beverage philosophy,
destinations, the in-hotel version of the meal has somewhat
its approach to choosing its suppliers and the sources of
fallen behind in terms of perceived importance, relegated
its ingredients, and it can also help guests experience new
by the rise of ubiquitous brunching and trendy afternoon
flavours that ordinarily they may not have come across.”
tea programmes.
With a breakfast menu comprising national staples such
As a result, the continental spread - that vague and
as hearty bowls of pho, generous helpings of traditional
ambiguous buffet starring a little bit of everything - appeared
noodle dish Mì Quang, and spicy bò kho stew, Park Hyatt
in its place. Breakfast in the most basic sense, the spread is
Saigon allows guests to experience Vietnamese cuisine as
food for fuel, served because, in hotels, it must be.
the locals do, and reversely provides locals with premium
However, properties around the world are now placing
takes on their favourite dishes.
focus back on the meal, using it as a platform to channel
In this sense, hotels are uniquely positioned to reinstate
elements of the locale and brand philosophy through F&B.
the importance of the meal, offering outsiders a way into
“From a hotel food and beverage perspective it is our
unfamiliar cultures through a medium they are familiar
opportunity to differentiate the overall hotel dining
with. And so with a world of approaches and traditions to
experience from other local restaurants and other hotel
toy with, we may once again see breakfast return to its place
competitors,” explains Michael Butler, Hyatt’s director of
as the most important meal of the day.
F&B for the EAME region. “We have moved away from a prescriptive breakfast setup to a breakfast experience that
016
“A breakfast menu can tell you a lot about the hotel location
With schedules busier than ever, and guests looking
“I believe it demonstrates how a brand, and the hotel, cares about its guests,” Butler concludes.
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APPETISERS
Gourmet Getaway
According to a study conducted by Eventbrite, 78% of
the chain brands that dominate the market could learn from
millennials would rather spend money on a desirable
these more intimate and personal F&B options.
experience or event than buying a desirable product.
One successful model is that of tour company Exotic
Meanwhile, a report published by Skift and the Ontario
Voyages, a luxury tour brand that tailors journeys to suit
Culinary Tourism Alliance estimates that 39 million
its client’s preferences. The Taste of Vietnam package, for
U.S. leisure travellers choose a destination based on
example, takes in the best of Vietnamese cuisine with stops
the availability of culinary activities, while another 35
at Sofitel Legend Metropole and Park Hyatt Saigon Hotel, and
million seek out culinary activities after a destination
offsets luxury hotel F&B with tastings of authentic regional
is decided upon. The two sets of data are perhaps
dishes prepared by locals.
interlinked, especially within hotel F&B, wherein
“Most of our guests are really into learning about local
cuisine is taking on more experiential qualities.
food. A walking food tour or cooking class is definitely very popular,” explains Andrew Carroll, Global Head of Sales and
Building on a market of gourmet getaways comprised largely
Marketing at Exotic Voyages. “Culinary experiences can add
of wine tasting in vineyard hotels or properties with their
a lot of excitement to the trip. A stop at a restaurant can tell
own distillery, and bespoke trips that factor in a location’s
you a lot about the country’s people, their kindness, struggle
traditional cuisine, there are a range of boutique properties
and strong will.”
experimenting with food as an aspect of travel and experience.
Similarly, Intrepid Traveller’s ‘Real Food Adventures’ take
At Georgie Bass Café & Cookery, in conjunction with
guests on a journey through the cuisine heart of destinations
Flinders Hotel in Australia, a culinary course sees guests
including Italy, Mexico, India and Morocco, using hotel stops
preparing items from the menu throughout the day, giving
as jumping off points from which to explore the region’s
them an insight to the process behind the fare, whilst in
traditional dishes and way of life.
Scotland, Blackaddie Hotel’s ‘Chef for a Day’ package sees
By adopting these authentic elements into a standard F&B
guests walked through the property’s menu by head chef
programme, large hotel groups – those which perhaps lose
Ian McAndrew, who provides a detailed breakdown of how
touch with local cuisine in favour of carefully curated luxury
dishes are planned and served. Likewise, Swinton Park Hotel’s
menus – can draw in this new generation of travellers seeking
Swinton Cookery School, in England, offers guests a series of
something more connected with the location, its people and
half-day, full day or weekend courses housed in a converted
its traditions.
Georgian stable wing adjacent to the hotel.
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Summing up this convergence of authenticity, experience
Initiatives like these combine a hotel’s traditional offering
and F&B at Skift’s global forum, food app Reserve’s CEO
of accommodation and sustenance with the experiential
Greg Hong noted: “Dining will be the last form of live
dimension so appealing to the younger generation. And with
entertainment. As we start to digitise experiences, we are
some sources predicting that millennials will represent the
going to yearn for authentic experiences where we can break
number one consumer segment in the hotel industry by 2018,
bread together.”
SERVICE
“If you go back 10 years, not many people went to hotel bars. Everyone thought of them as something for residents; places where travellers are sleeping over their whisky by the fireplace.� Bartender Erik Lorincz on the shift of perception on hotel bars.
Image: Adrian Houston
SERVICE
Under The Curtain Marcus Samuelsson discusses a new home for Red Rooster, digging food and why diversity is the soul of a restaurant.
Words: Harry McKinley
T
here’s a strangeness to frequenting
where the bar is fashioned from planks of
though, was a grounding in an economical
restaurants out of hours. The
wood and what looks like scaffolding poles.
way of cooking. “There were no leftovers,” he
boisterous diners, background music
It’s a suitably egalitarian space that works
says. “We ate really well, without thinking of
and cacophony of the open kitchens
for the neighbourhood. After all, Shoreditch,
luxury. You could start with a roasted chicken
all on pause, and in their stay empty seats,
like Harlem, has seen its own reinvention this
and then you had chicken soup, and then broth
creaking floorboards and harsh, functional
generation; from shabby but cool to not so
and dumplings. It’s a smart way of dealing
lighting. We’re at Red Rooster at London’s The
shabby, or at least unless it’s intended to be.
with food. That’s something my grandmother
Curtain, a new Shoreditch venue that blends guestrooms, F&B and a private members club.
When Samuelsson arrives he embodies the
taught me. When I went to work in three
same character as the restaurant. His trousers
Michelin star kitchens, we didn’t cook like that.
are bright and patterned, and he carries
I started to think that when I became a chef, I
behind the restaurant and a globally recognised
himself with an ease that is neither overly
would bring these memories with me.”
chef who - now in his late 40s – has built an
confident nor overly meek.
Here to meet Marcus Samuelsson, the man
empire that includes a myriad of restaurants,
In many ways it’s understandable why
Having already worked odd jobs for years, at just 16 or 17 Samuelsson began to think his
frequent television appearances a half-dozen
his sartorial choices are so unique. He is a
passion for food could translate into a career.
bestselling books.
man that often defies characterisation by
He trained at Gothenburg’s Culinary Institute
dull conventional standards. He is a man of
and subsequently embarked on apprenticeships
multiple places and multiple cultures.
that would take him across Europe.
This isn’t the first Red Rooster, of course. The original, in New York’s Harlem, has long been regarded as Samuelsson’s flagship
Born in Ethiopia, where he admits the
But whilst Samuelsson’s success-story
and is a place where attitude, ambience and
struggle for food was “very real”, he was
would arguably begin when he arrived in
community spirit are arguably as important as
adopted as a child by a Swedish couple
America, the prod across the Atlantic was not
the cuisine: elevated American comfort food
in Gothenburg. As part of a middle class
through sheer circumstance or even unbridled
that reflects the diversity of the once-gritty,
Scandinavian family, he would go fishing for
ambition; it was a much more insidious
now less so neighbourhood.
mackerel and foraging for lingonberries. He’s
influence: racism.
Here in Shoreditch that brand of American
quick to point out, however, that whilst food
“As a black man, you always have a different
soul has been translated into an eclectic
was more plentiful than in Ethiopia, it didn’t
path. Not better, not worse, you’re just given
space where disparate art adorns the walls,
mean they, “came from money.”
different cards,” he says dispassionately. “At
clashing African fabrics line the seats and
What these dual experiences did offer him
that point I was always told that my ambitions
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CC’s deviled eggs Image: Jason Bailey
022
SERVICE
were too high and that no one would support
Harlem. Opened in 2010 it is now a mainstay of
separate to the rooms upstairs, filled with
a black chef’s restaurant, at least where I
the neighbourhood and, because presidents get
overnighters, Samuelsson does have his fingers
was in France. That was a very hard thing to
around, Obama has also been for supper.
in the more traditional hotel F&B pie. He was
understand or accept, because I was working
“Red Rooster comes from a magical place,”
responsible for developing the Kitchen & Table
next to the same guys and doing very well. But
he says, slipping into tones reserved for a
concept for Clarion Hotels, and the brand has
you can’t drive based on just one engine, or as
prized child. “It was an old bar in Harlem in
been rolled out across the Nordics since 2012.
though you want to prove something to other
the 30s. The kind of place where the maid was
people. That can be part of the story, but the
welcome and so was the local politician. That
the restaurants are a response to the all-
narrative still has to be that you want people
story of diversity is what we want to tell. I feel
day-dining needs of a large hotel group and a
to dig your food. I did think that I needed to be
like I’m more like the conductor, the cooks are
very different bird from the rooster. “Clarion
in an environment that was more diverse, but I
the musicians and the guests are the audience.
is a great hotel company that does a lot of
knew that if I pushed and pursued my cooking,
It’s something very deep.”
conferences and the audience puts a lot of trust
it would happen; and it did.”
With a focus on seasonal, sustainable dishes,
Then again story is something that can’t
in the rooms. In the F&B we wanted to create
be faked and so for this brand, that resonates
a brand that the audience would recognise in
immigrants where difference and diversity
on such a personal level with Samuelsson,
every place. It’s become very successful,” he
were par for the course and not a hurdle to
opening a second venue was never going to be
says. “Where Rooster is very standalone, the
achievement. He became an apprentice at
something to approach flippantly. The winds
Kitchen & Table restaurants are all-day. So
Aquavit, the Scandinavian restaurant created by
would have to be right.
as a chef in today’s environment you have to
That environment was New York, a city of
Håkan Swahn. By the time he was the ripe old
Asked ‘every week’ to open a Red Rooster
be able to drill down and decide what type of
age of 24, he was its executive chef and became
in a different city around the world, it was a
the youngest person ever to receive a three-star
friendship with Michael Achenbaum – the man
review from The New York Times. In the years
behind The Curtain, so to speak – that spurred
success? “One of my most successful years was
since he’s also been named best chef in New
the collaboration. London felt right.
when I was 19 years old and working in Japan. I
York by the James Beard Foundation and his
“It’s the only city in the world that matches
dialogue you want to have.” So to what does Samuelsson credit his
made zero money. I was the only black person
2006 tome, The Soul of a New Cuisine, picked
New York in terms of a certain energy and
in the kitchen. If you think about the 25 years
up the gong for Best International Cookbook.
diversity,” he says. “Being in the east of the
I’ve cooked, people come and go. It’s a lot of
city reminds me a lot of Harlem, because there
noise. But I’m deeply in love with my trade. I
something that validates his journey he seems
are storytellers, there are writers, there is a
know I’m not the youngest person anymore.
perplexed. Apparently for Samuelsson, awards
community that is changing rapidly. Four years
I’m not the only person of colour in the space,
are the not the obvious making of a good cook.
ago when we started this journey I knew, right
and have never been, but I dig food.”
“But it’s not like it doesn’t mean anything,”
away, that this was where we needed to be.
he says. “You have this ambition and you
There’s some beautiful imperfection here. It
the scattered voices of staff arriving for the
really want to tell your stories through food
speaks to me.”
evening’s service begin to reverberate around
When asked if these kinds of accolades are
and to bring people together. It’s not easy. It
Shoreditch, of course, is not Harlem. And so
As our conversation draws to a close and
the room, it strikes us that Red Rooster is,
costs money and requires passion. And so even
whilst they both reflect diverse, evolving areas
for Samuelsson, a labour of love. That 1930s
though acknowledgment is important for the
with a vibrant core, there was never a question
Harlem bar that celebrated diversity and a
team, as it shows them that we’re going in the
of dropping the Harlem iteration of Red Rooster
sense of community is as necessary today as it
right direction, for me these acknowledgments
into the neighbourhood and expecting it to fly.
was then, and in some small way he is trying to
are not bus stops. There are plenty of
“The community creates something
keep that spirit alive.
restaurants with a lot of stars that closed, and
that is very different and yet the roots are
the majority of restaurants are unknown but
recognisable,” Samuelsson explains. “I knew the
upon the social elephant in the room when
very successful.”
attitude would be very different. There might
it comes to modern day London and the UK
be other types of restaurants where you can
at large. “I’ve been several different things.
living in the ‘10% wrong’ space, meaning that
cookie-cut, but not something so delicate.” But
I’ve been an immigrant several times and
however successful a service is, he’s always
what of the hotel above and around, how does
that drives you. It does make me think about
trying to analyse what could be done better and
Red Rooster sit within The Curtain? “The hurdle
Brexit,” he says, with a tinge of something
what wasn’t done right.
of hotels has shifted in general. Look at what
verging on melancholy. “Immigrants work
Soho House and Ace Hotel started. These are
very hard. Think about hospitality without
the curse of the perfectionist, but since his
work, play and eating places. That wasn’t part
immigrants. So whether it’s in Europe or
early days in Aquavit, Samuelsson has opened
of the conversation before. So we’re fortunate
in America, or anywhere, we still struggle
numerous restaurants, served as the guest chef
enough to not have to think too much about
with the issue of identities. It’s why it’s so
for the first state dinner of the Barack Obama
the other side of F&B at the hotel. We can focus
important to have diverse narratives - whether
presidency and fronted his own television
on Red Rooster and the chef at The Curtain can
they’re about spirituality, race or sexual
shows. By all accounts he is now a household
focus on coordinating the whole house.”
orientation. We’re just people. We want to work
Samuelsson describes himself as sometimes
One could say such constant unpicking is
name. And then, of course, there’s Red Rooster
While Red Rooster may be thought of as
Packing up our things, Samuelsson touches
and we want to show that we have worth.”
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SERVICE
In the Details Head bartender at The Savoy’s American Bar, Erik Lorincz discusses standards, inspiration and why he had to give up his hairdresser.
Words: Harry McKinley
T
here are a dozen or so famed hotels in the world that truly capture the imaginations of travellers and are synonymous with legacy and renown: the likes of The Ritz in Paris, Raffles in Singapore and The Plaza in New York. London’s The Savoy would also surely take a spot
towards the top. It’s perhaps why the hotel’s American Bar, on a Monday afternoon,
heaves with activity. In one nook a group of Americans talk loudly about their theatre plans for the coming evening and in another a solitary gent sips at a coffee and thumbs through The Times. A mother and her teenage son slip in, a few shopping bags in tow; she orders something from the cocktail menu, he has a coke. They’re undoubtedly from out of town. There really doesn’t seem to be any kind of singular customer. It’s a sign perhaps of the high esteem in which the bar is held, and certainly an indicator of its celebrity. Even for those who have never been, ‘drinks at The Savoy’ does sound rather grand. Our people watching exercise is cut short by the arrival of Erik Lorincz, American Bar’s head bartender and the man we’re here to meet. He slinks into a seat with the pace of someone who has just this moment finished one task and is already thinking about the next. Life at the top is undoubtedly busy, like the bar. In his white work suit and with slicked back hair he cuts a crisp figure – already giving the air of a man who likes things ‘just so’. We dive straight in and ask about Lorincz’s journey to The Savoy, and to bartending luminary. “Well, if I’m honest,” he says, and we hope he will be,
“the journey to the American Bar wasn’t as hard
In the end Lorincz realised that if there was a
as the journey from Bratislava to London.”
common thread through the American Bar’s past,
Although now living in the British capital, Lorincz hails from Slovenia. He was already leading a team and managing a bar there when he
it wasn’t about looking to the past at all, but was a sense of innovation and of pushing forward. “We want to make sure that there is consistency
decided to make the leap in 2004. But it wasn’t an
and that what the bar is about is recognisable. But
easy one. He arrived in London speaking almost
we realised we want to bring it to that line where
no English and got a job as a bar-back, collecting
there is still something new. It’s probably about
glasses and cleaning ashtrays in a nightclub. He
being elegant and creating an experience that
couldn’t hold a conversation and describes moving
speaks to today,” he says.
into a shared ex-council flat in Archway that
Today, of course, many guests expect more
wasn’t so much from the outside, but at least had
than just a well-made drink – they want a show.
a garden.
It posed something of a problem for the American
As his English improved and his confidence in
Bar, which has only four barstools and where
the Big Smoke increased he steadily moved from
the vast majority of guests receive table service.
his bar-back job to Sanderson Hotel, and on to
Lorincz’s solution for the bar’s last menu was
The Connaught. It’s quite a climb up the ladder by
to create bespoke coasters and vessels for every
anyone’s standards.
drink in each category. He likens it to a restaurant,
By this stage Lorincz was getting the
explaining that much of the action has to happen
opportunity to truly showcase his talents and,
on the table and it’s something that bartenders at
in 2010, won Bartender of the Year in the Diageo
venues like his shouldn’t forget.
World Class global final. The phone started to ring and one of those calling was The Savoy. “They were just about to finalise their
“Of course when people are sat at the bar they’re always more engaged, because they see everything,” he muses. “But in a restaurant you
“When people are sat at the bar they’re always more engaged, because they see everything.” reopening [after a £220 million, three-year
don’t see how the chef prepares a meal so a lot of
refurbishment] and asked if I would be interested
it is down to service and what is presented has to
in the position,” he says. “I think they were drawn
stand on its own. We have to deliver an experience
by the success that we had already created at The
that you don’t have to sit at the bar to appreciate.
Connaught Bar. It was well recognised and there
After all our cocktails are not cheap. They’re
was an attention to detail on the standards, as
probably some of the most expensive in the city.”
well as creativity and innovation. I noticed that the bar scene was moving from standalone cocktail bars to hotel bars. If you go
and wonder what a Sazerac 5000 must taste like,
back ten years, not many people went to hotel
at £5000 a pop. While the majority of cocktails sit
bars. Everyone thought of them as something for
at a much more palatable price point, it does pose
residents, places where travellers are sleeping
the question of what justifies such a hefty bill.
over their whisky by the fireplace. That whole
For Lorincz the experience is almost romantic – a
revolution started at The Connaught, with a young
foray into liquid history. Again, he’s not wrong.
team that totally changed the face of the bar.”
The cognac used for this particular Sazerac was
At the American Bar, Lorincz was overwhelmed. He describes digging into the history of The Connaught Bar for inspiration and coming up
bottled in 1858. Charles Dickens was still roaming the streets of London. “I always try to explain to the guest that the
short, while for The Savoy, every year was a
things that are expensive aren’t because we just
goldmine, rich with stories.
want to make a lot of money,” he says, “it’s
“That was a challenge,” he explains. “Because
because the main component is so rare and unique
you want to draw from the past, but when
that once the bottle is empty, we’ll never be able
there’s such a wealth of history and legacy,
to make it again.”
where do you start?”
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He’s not wrong. While sipping from our glass of still water we cast a glance down at the menu
As if in demonstration of his integrity as a
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barman, he recalls an occasion when he refused to serve a guest one
for the occasionally restrictive world of the hotel, where an emphasis
of these four figure fancies. Simply put, he didn’t think he’d like it.
on standards and repetition are the norm. He recalls trying to train a
He also recalls a night when he sold three to the same man, who
hairdresser to cut his hair how he likes it, but explains that every time he
presumably did.
went back, the hairdresser still had to ask. “After several years of that I
Lorincz clearly cares about his craft. He has a respect for the legacy
but also an analogy for his his approach to work, and indeed life. Further
it’s served. But that sense of connection to the work and to the industry
evidence that he does, indeed, like things ‘just so’.
doesn’t come quickly or easily and he riles against the new breed of bartender who expects success at the drop of an ice cube. “I have new starters sometimes who feel as though they don’t need to
“The bar has always been a place for fun and relaxation. We always want people to feel comfortable and at ease,” he says. “But at the same time there are people that need to understand that a hotel bar is not a
do certain tasks anymore, or work as a bar back,” he says, exasperated
pub. So if they want a beer it will be served in a glass, because that’s how
– understandably so for someone who started out in London cleaning
we do things here.” Standards.
ashtrays. “But I’ll ask them if they know what certain drinks are made of
For all of this talk of detail and precision, Lorincz doesn’t appear to
and where they’re from. If a guest asked the same thing and they don’t
be an uptight or restrained person. In fact he carries his meticulousness
have the answer, then they don’t understand what they’re doing. Once
with a dash of humour, joking for example about how he couldn’t sleep
you think you know everything, you don’t know anything.”
at night if he didn’t have the right kind of ice at home. He also speaks
It’s now that we segue into Lorincz’s well-documented love and
joyously about how he finds inspiration in everything – whether it’s
fascination for Japanese bartending, something that makes sense now we
creating glassware with John Jenkins or noticing how ‘cool it is’ that staff
have a better understanding of his exacting standards.
at a trattoria carry pepper grinders around in their back pockets. It’s an
“The bartenders there are so humble and so dedicated to what they
idea he brought to The Connaught, where waiters now carry coasters in
do,” he says, in some ways describing himself. “They are so focussed on
their aprons. “You have to be moved on a daily basis,” he says. “And you
the task and attention to detail. They are so synchronised it’s like they are
have to be awake, because inspiration is all around us.” Fitting closing
dancing a tango and there’s a lot of purity in watching how they work.”
words from a man who - to many emerging bartenders - is likely an
As such a detail-oriented person, Lorincz seems a better fit than some
028
just changed my hairdresser,” he says with a laugh. It’s an amusing story
of his bar, for the value of what he serves and for the manner in which
inspiration himself.
Image: Dan Perez
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A Fitting Pair Founders of the eponymous studio Baranowitz + Kronenberg, Alon Baranowitz and Irene Kronenberg are two of the most sought after names in contemporary F&B design. From Mr Porter and The Duchess at W Amsterdam to the market-defining Mendeli Street Hotel and The Butcher burger bars, they have developed a reputation for breaking the mould of hotel dining. Words: Noga Tarnopolsky
I
rene Baranowitz and Alon Kronenberg operate like two
began asking themselves: why two offices? Later that turned
pieces of a puzzle: unalike shapes, fitted together at the
into: why two homes? They’ve been together ever since.
proper angles to form a greater whole. A couple in life as
Today, they are among the world’s top designers of hotel
in work, they are a study in collaborative difference.
and F&B environments that blend urbanity with hospitality.
Long russet-blonde hair frames Irene Baranowitz’s face.
“Even as a couple,” Baranowitz says, “I held tight to my
She speaks as fast as a bullet train, her voice revealing
own autonomy. We are very different. Our strengths don’t
traces of her native Uruguay. She leaps in to answer
intersect. We both have strong personalities, even if in Alon
questions, working and developing her responses out loud,
it is less evident. It’s a dialogue of the brave - not easy, but
like filigree. She wears spiky jewelry.
we don’t give up.” Kronenberg completes the thought: “It’s
At her side, with steel grey hair and a trimmed beard gradually turning white, the tall, broad Alon Kronenberg,
not easy, but it’s inescapable.” “The hardest lesson, but most significant,” Baranowitz
initially appears unreactive. But as avid and intense as
says, “as a couple and in our professional partnership, was
she is, he mulls a question over before delivering a fully
to respect the strengths of each other and to understand
wrought response.
that if each of us is in our own fortress, that we can see
“We have a very good professional synergy,” Baranowitz, a graduate of Technion’s School of Design,
something the other cannot.” They have applied their particular vision and energy to
affirms. “Though with two well-developed egos, it is not
restaurants and hotels that are challenging because they
always simple.” They met in 1992 as colleagues working
come with fixed physical parameters, and, in some cases,
in the same building in a then-tatty neighborhood in
history that cannot be erased. In the manner of 3D editors,
South Tel Aviv. Kronenberg had recently returned to the
Baranowitz and Kronenberg seem to transform something
city with a degree from the Pratt Institute.
old and faded into an exuberant, re-imagined iteration of
From the beginning, the questions they posed revolved around shared spaces. Two years or so after meeting, they
the original thing. Of course there is something magical, like falling in love,
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Mendeli Street Hotel, Tel Aviv Image: Amit Geron and Omri Amsalem
“We are very different. Our strengths don’t intersect. We both have strong personalities”
fridge door. You’re sitting eating a burger and models walk by, and you don’t know where to, or why they’re not coming back. It contains two worlds, the world of day and the world of night.” They’ve already expanded the Butcher concept to Berlin at the Sir Savigny Hotel, and are opening another in Ibiza this summer.
in the process of enabling an old structure to express itself anew. “I dream and she makes me dream,” Kronenberg says. “A muse, you could say. I’m very curious and I love to learn. If I’m not sleeping, I have
tourism, but also turned it into a shining and inviting harbour for
something by my side that I’m learning from. I’m not a good manager.
international tourists drawn to the metropolis on the Mediterranean:
I’m obsessed with details. I’m looking through the microscope and she’s
business travellers and Europeans on beachy getaways.
on LCD screens.” Baranowitz interrupts: “Alon’s greatest strength is
The idea, Baranowitz says, was to transform the non-descript box into
ideas. He’s an inventor. I have ideas all the time, but I’m translating
a metaphor for Tel Aviv. For a boutique hotel in the first Hebrew-speaking
them into the here and now, figuring out how things work, how to make
city, they used the shapes of letters to create a sheath for the building
it happen, how to transform an idea into reality. I can take something
– latticework inspired by interlaced Moroccan balconies. “Lightness
disconnected to shape and translate it into the tangible.”
is central to the entire building’s design. Tel Aviv’s design speaks of
In Amsterdam, they turned the cold, marble lobby of the former Kas
freedom, and here we made a hotel in the city of freedom with motifs
Bank into The Butcher, a steel grey all-around bar, a “beefy post for the
taken from the Hebrew language and the Orient. In my mind, that’s the
patty lovers. A Mecca of sorts.” They developed a concept Baranowitz
essence of Tel Aviv: that it completely integrates being West and East.”
calls “hamburgeriada,” with an emphasis on the quality of the meat. Its motto: Bloody delicious burgers! A standalone attraction affixed to the W Hotel, it contains a secret:
032
In their home base of Tel Aviv, the team took a dilapidated hotel that was built in the 1970s with the aim of accommodating internal Israeli
The Mendeli Street Hotel is the first building in which Baranowitz and Kronenberg started out with an F&B concept and stretched it out to encompass the entire public space of the hotel. Mendeli has no lobby,
“The kitchen is very dominant,” Kronenberg says, “so it’s clear you’re
instead guests walk straight into a bar. Or, in Baranowitz’s words, “they
in for a burger. But we built a speakeasy into it that you enter through a
leave a city street and enter the city of Tel Aviv: dark, classy with drinks.”
As a brand for sophisticated table culture, TAFELSTERN’s strengths lie in its constant endeavour to create products of perfect shape and decoration. Developing diverse stylistic collections, TAFELSTERN is a problem-solver and consultant for the hotel and restaurant business.
www.tafelstern.com
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The Butcher, Sir Sevigny, Berlin
“It’s a concept that is sleek, cool and about being comfortable in one’s own skin.”
marvels. “They used to burn witches on Charles Bridge!” Again, the surrounding urban landscape was a starting point. “There are cities that reinvent themselves,” Baranowitz explains, “but Prague is not one of those. The roots there are so strong that it is case of revival,
Kronenberg says the “constructive intervention” they performed on the building was to create “a hotel directed at people who want to be
Having just returned from a first trip to the city, they’re
connected to what is happening in the city. They immediately know
contemplating three or four years of work. They are just beginning.
where they should be: away from the seashore, which is the coolest, but
“The restaurant? The Bar? We are still thinking,” she says, flicking
spitting distance to the sea. It’s the Grand Jeu of Tel Aviv.”
through pictures of the building: its carved wood adornments, grand
The hotel, in fact, offers guests the uncommon experience of being
staircase, astonishing ceramic tiles and molded glass walls, all of which
both in, and not in, the city. Its public spaces are public in the absolute
will be integrated into the final design. They have already contacted
sense: with an open façade at street level, Mendeli opens itself up to
the still extant firm that made the original tiles in 1905. Kronenberg
passersby dropping in for a lunch meeting or a drink. Only a small
suggests he’s about to intervene in the life of “a hypnotizing building”
desk tucked behind the accessible urbanity hints at the rooms above,
and he looks keen.
accessible only through a discreet lift and with a key. The idea of being seen and unseen is central to Mendeli’s ethos, thus
“We are in the process of absorbing information, trying to process data from outside before creating output. We need to understand the DNA of
the latticework inside and out. “It’s a concept that is sleek, cool and
the building, the street and the city. Once you’ve got the DNA - the life of
about being comfortable in one’s own skin,” Kronenberg says.
a building under its surface - you can assemble a viable concept.”
Their latest challenge is in a city they only recently stepped foot in:
Gutting an old structure so as to breathe new life into it is apt for
Prague, where they are charged with designing the entire interior of the
Prague, the city of the Golem, the mythic creature of folklore magically
once majestic Grand Hotel Europa.
formed from dust and mud. In fact, the Hebrew letters G-L-M – gelem -
It sits on Wenceslas Square, “the boulevard of history,” Kronenberg
034
not reinvention.”
mean raw material, that with which a new form begins.
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DRINKS
Music To The Ears Words: Lauren Ho
An often-unconsidered afterthought, background music is getting its moment in the limelight as brands recognise its value.
D
o you know your Paul Desmond from your Desmond Dekker? Chances are you probably don’t. If you do, then you could be just the person Rob Wood is looking to recruit. But not before
you pass a series of rigorous written tests and interviews - details of which are kept tightly under wraps for fear of revealing his ‘trade secret’. All we can disclose is that a CV is not a priority. No, this isn’t the application process for a job at the secret service. It is however, Wood’s sure-fire method of employing just the right person to join his team of gurus at Music Concierge, a company that, in short, delves deep into the psyche of a brand to hand pick the right tunes to help it perform better.
DRINKS
Wood, who describes himself as a ‘bit of a music
As a result, Music Concierge has a substantial
fanatic’ – the kid whose task at school was to provide
portfolio of upscale clients that includes retail, such
the mix tapes for parties – is the product of the club
as the British luxury goods brand Mulberry, and –
scene that exploded across the UK in the early 1990s.
perhaps unsurprisingly – an impressive line up of
Acknowledging he was in the right place at the right
hospitality companies such as London’s Connaught
time, his informal path into DJing kick-started his
and Rosewood properties, Como Hotels and Resorts,
career as a music journalist – most notably as the
The Upper House in Hong Kong and also restaurant
editor of cult magazine Jockey Slut – before he met a
groups such as The Ivy and Corbin and King in
certain James Lohan, better known as the founder of
London. Jaime Faus, general manager at the Pullman
the boutique hotel booking website, Mr & Mrs Smith.
in Jakarta, who worked with Wood at the group’s
Side-lining as a hotel reviewer for the company,
St Pancras property, says: “Music is essential. It’s
Wood started to notice an obvious lack of considered
a way of emotionally connecting with people. If the
music at the properties he was visiting, thus Music
music is great, people will enjoy themselves more,
Concierge was born. “A great hotel is about escapism
they will likely feel a synergy with the brand and
and appealing to the human senses,” he explains.
they will repeat visit.” James Luck, the commercial
“Sight, taste and touch - be it via the interior
director of Soundjack, another background music
decoration, the food or the quality of the linen - are
company, agrees: “Music, when selected carefully,
always thought of but, for me, it was clear that sound
can help create the right atmosphere for your brand.
was very much an afterthought, often left to the
It can appeal to your ideal customers, it provides
bar manager to put on some awful techno music at
a backdrop for the brand space and it encourages
breakfast or something.”
people to stay longer.”
Of course Wood isn’t exactly chartering new
Approaching the business by way of a tablet-based
territory here. Mega high street retailers such as
system and an app that allows the customer to select
Boots the chemist or McDonald’s have always
their desired track from the playlist, on demand,
used the services of background music suppliers,
Soundjack might have a slightly different method to
but as large corporate companies, Wood wanted
Music Concierge, but what remains the same is that
to move away from their ‘generic and poorly
both companies value the importance of sound within
conceived’ offerings to supply luxury companies a
a hotel and its F&B spaces.
brand-focused solution. “I wanted to come up with
So, assuming it’s not as simple as creating a mix
something from a real music-train spotter-passion
tape, how detailed is the exact process behind the
culture. The key thing for me was the understanding
scenes? Wood, for one, does not authorise new
of the brand.”
recruits to engage with a client for at least a year, if
DRINKS
not two. During this time, they are learning how
which contributes to better F&B revenue.” Adding to
to follow briefs, gaining playlist design experience
this, Luck says: “The right music is essential. It has
and navigating their way around Music Concierge’s
been proven to increase sales, with 44% of bars and
extensive library - where over 270 styles of music are
pubs believing so, and 67% saying that it encourages
maintained. Following this, both companies place a
repeat business.”
lot of emphasis on the initial consultancy phase, with
But what exactly is ‘right’? While it might seem
detailed client interviews, property assessments and
obvious that playing upbeat music might encourage
generally spending time at the venue, to evaluate any
people to eat faster – or vice versa – you can’t help
difficulties, while gaining a thorough understanding
but wonder why you would need a dedicated bunch
of the brand. “Once we have done all of this research,
of people to work this out. In reality, it is much
we will have a very good grasp of the property and
more nuanced, with Music Concierge sussing out the
work out how we can create an atmosphere that’s
room layout, gauging the quality of the speakers,
more engaging and therefore increase dwell time in
educating staff on the volume level and even going
that space,” Wood says.
as far as installing their own hardware system from
In fact, upping this ‘dwell time’ is one of the most
which they can remotely control an entire timetable
common briefs and a very simple tactic: the longer
of music that is specially selected according to the
guests hang out, the more inclined they are to eat
time of day, and also refreshed every three months.
and drink. And as everyone knows, focusing only
As Wood reasons: “Because everyone loves music,
on hotel room sales these days is rarely a winning
people think any member of staff can do it. I very
strategy anymore. “When music is poor or annoying,
much disagree with that. Just because we all eat food
it lets the whole experience down,” explains Faus.
doesn’t mean anyone can conceive a menu - that
“But where we have made it right – such as at the
should be left to a chef.”
Pullman St Pancras in London – it engages people,
As calculating as this whole business might seem, both Wood and Luck are keen to highlight that a curated selection of music can also go a long way to enhancing a customer’s personal experience and resulting memories. “Rather than focusing on how music might change the taste of a banana, I think what music really does is affect how you enjoy that moment, which is what is most important,” emphasises Wood.
Specials
“This is a place for conversation, a sense of community and a melting pot of Portuguese heritage.” Rodrigo Machaz, General Manager of Memmo Príncipe Real, on attracting a local audience at Café Colonial.
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Image: Read McKendree
Glorietta Trattoria Anvil Hotel, Jackson
Originally built in the 1950s, Anvil Hotel is a renovation of one of Jackson’s
sensibility. The relaxed attitude and quietly refined interior is reflected in
original motels. Located in the historic centre of the quintessential mountain
dishes intended to be shared ‘family style’ – from freshly made pastas to
town, the 48-key boutique draws discerning guests keen to tackle the ski
elevated cast iron comfort food.
slopes of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort – one of the leading ski resorts in the country – as well as the national parks located within easy reach.
An already-popular destination for drinking as well as dining, the trattoria features a cocktail programme developed by Proprietors LLC,
Designed by Brooklyn-based Studio Tack, Glorietta Trattoria is a
the group behind NYC’s Death & Co. Creative serves take inspiration from
reimagining of the traditional wood-fired Italian restaurant. With a
the kitchens and feature ingredients from rustic Italian cuisine, including
balanced mix of warm, naturally finished materials, the 85-cover space
warm spices, woody herbs and a variety of nuts and fruits. A carefully
features a large wood-burning grill, around which is arranged versatile
curated wine list, by Joel Gunderson of Portland’s Coopers Hall winery,
booths and banquette seating with tables.
also includes a diverse selection of Italian wines, categorised by region.
The menu - conceived by Executive Chef Troy Furuta – rotates seasonally and features a mix of nostalgic Italian dishes prepared with a contemporary
www.gloriettajackson.com
IN A BITE Covers: 85 restaurant, 40 terrace • Owner: Eagle Point Hotel Partners • Operator: Filament Hospitality • Interior Design: Studio Tack • Architecture: Jaime Farmer • Executive Chef: Troy Furuta • Head Bartender: Scott Keten • Beverage Programme: Proprietors LLC (cocktails), Joel Gunderson (wine)
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Jamboree Foodfest and Bar ibis Styles Manchester Portland Hotel
One of the most significant pivots of the industry has been the steady
Argentine beef and paired with Chimichurri.
redefining of the economy segment. Design and experience led concepts
The 191-cover restaurant sits adjacent to the main hotel, with a
now abound, as hotel groups seek to tap the millennial traveller high on
dedicated street-facing entrance, intended to emphasise the robustness
expectation but low on budget.
of the concept as a spot for in-guest dining as well as outside trade.
At the newly refurbished ibis Styles Manchester Portland Hotel,
Karelle Lamouche, SVP of Budget and Economy Brands at AccorHotels
whimsical interiors in the public spaces riff off the city’s reputation
UK, says: “Adding the fully-refurbished Portland Hotel to our ever
for unpredictable weather, with selfie-ready elevators - complete with
expanding portfolio of ibis Styles perfectly highlights the strength of our
decorative oversized umbrellas - and a staircase that allows guests to check
proposition and reinforces the brand as the benchmark in the economy
the ever-changing forecast.
segment. The restaurant interior has been brought to life through unique
Jamboree Foodfest and Bar, meanwhile, takes on a more escapist bent, channelling sunny getaways and laid back vibes. A burger-focussed menu
and creative storytelling as well as playful design features that provide our guests with a sense of fun.”
transports diners to far-flung climes: from the American influenced Maryland, made with soft-shell crab, to the Raging Bull, featuring
www.jamboreemcr.co.uk
IN A BITE Covers: 191 • Owner: Amaris Hospitality • Operator: AccorHotels UK • Architecture: Philip Watts Design • Tableware: Steelite • Cutlery: Amefa Glassware: Artis
044
Creating Hospitality
Professional Glassware Selection Always up to the job
Villeroy & Boch S.à.r.l. Hotel & Restaurant 330, rue de Rollingergrund 2441 Luxembourg Tel.: + (352) 46 82 11 · Fax: + (352) 46 90 22 E-mail: info.hr@villeroy-boch.com www.villeroy-boch.com/hotel
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The Provocateur Bar Provocateur, Berlin
Provocateur by name and provocative by nature, the bar at this new 58-
bar, while ambient low lighting casts enigmatic shadows across the parquet
key Berlin boutique is billed as ‘shamelessly sensual’. Inspired by the dark
flooring, bouncing off the reflective wall that marks the entryway.
corners and hidden places of Paris at midnight, the design is one of carnal refinement, intended to evoke the elegant excess of the 1920s.
Located in Berlin’s west-central Charlottenburg neighbourhood, The Provocateur Bar is managed by Nico Krznar who oversees a menu featuring
“Discovering spots in Paris made me realise Provocateur should be
liqueurs and infusions prepared in-house, as well as classics with a twist.
shocking and unexpected,” says Saar Zafrir, who headed-up the design of the
“It’s particularly exciting to be working closely with the restaurant,” says
hotel; part of Design Hotels. Constant travel between his base of Amsterdam,
Krznar, who aims to create a consistently alluring experience for hotel
his native Tel Aviv, and cities like London, Berlin and Paris is said to have
guests and diners filtering through from Golden Phoenix - the hotel’s
created his trademark: a combination of international allusions with a local
restaurant specialising in ‘otherworldly’ French-Chinese creations, headed
soul. “The bar constantly pushes your buttons. It whispers passion in every
by renowned chef Duc Ngo.
way, using soft and heavy textures, and is driven by the colours red and blue.” Flying Flames from lighting designer Ingo Maurer hang above the
www.provocateur-hotel.com
IN A BITE Covers: 40 • Interior Design: Saar Zafrir • Architecture: TSSB Architekten Ingenieure • Owner: Gekko Group (Micky Rosen and Ales Urseanu) and Liran Wizman • Head Bartender: Nico Krznar • Tableware: Rosenthal • Glassware: Schott Zwiesel • Cutlery: Mepra
046
TIGERHOTEL INTRODUCING T-COLLECTION... Scandinavian design is a design movement characterized by simplicity, minimalism and functionality that emerged in the five Nordic countries of Finland, Norway, Sweden, Iceland and Denmark. Scandinavian design tries to humanize by the use of natural materials such as wood, glasses, leather etc. and to democratize by the use of innovative techniques to make objects in series at reasonable prices because it believes that beautiful and functional everyday objects should also affordable. Inspired by this design idea, Tiger has launched series of products under T-Collection such as induction chafing dishes, rectangular carving station with its new heating lamps, juice dispenser and buffet display wooden trays and risers at competitive prices. Tiger proposes a whole new collection of buffet items to bring a nice touch of modernism and simplicity into your buffet scene.
www.tigerhotel.co.kr
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STARTERS xxx
L.A. Jackson Thompson Nashville
A city famed for its creative spirit and soulful music heritage, Nashville has
photographs of music icons. Blue glass entry doors open to reveal
been witnessing a period of explosive growth. Thompson Nashville, one of
flamingo-coloured floor tiles and a bar made of stamped concrete with a
its newest boutiques, sits in the hip The Gulch neighbourhood between the
contoured wooden top.
city’s Music row and Downtown. Formerly a district populated with empty
Dining areas throughout feature blue velvet banquettes that mix saw tooth
lots and still-to-be redeveloped buildings, it is now one of Nashville’s
detailing with patterned fabric, and stainless steel topped tables. Ceiling
most dynamic areas.
panels are custom upholstered and circular glass chandeliers hang overhead.
A destination to stay and play, Thompson Nashville has put an emphasis on
Drawing guests towards the expansive patio are characterful, oversized
original and inventive F&B spaces, including a 100-cover signature restaurant,
glass garage doors, whilst outside an illuminated 20ft olive tree provides
Marsh House, and 200-cover rooftop bar and restaurant, L.A. Jackson.
a focal point, set against the panoramic city views.
Designed by New York City-based Parts and Labor Design, L.A. Jackson features a richly detailed interior that draws upon the character of
The cocktail menu is concise and considered, and punchy serves are presented in glassware from Hospitality Glass.
Nashville whilst introducing unexpected flourishes. Guests are greeted to the 12th floor of the hotel by a wood panelled corridor featuring revealing
www.lajacksonbar.com
IN A BITE Covers: 200 • Interior Design: Parts and Labor Design • Architecture: Hastings Architecture and Associates • Operator: Our House Hospitality • Head Bartender: Mario Salas • Executive Chef: Nathan Duensing • Tableware: Steelite • Glassware: Hospitality Glass • Cutlery: Steelite
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JOHN JENKINS ESTABLISHED 1901
BY APPOINTMENT TO HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES SUPPLIER OF CRYSTAL GLASS JOHN JENKINS & SONS LTD T/A WILLIAM YEOWARD CRYSTAL HAMPSHIRE ENGLAND
a perfect cocktail…the perfect glass NYEWOOD, ROGATE, PETERSFIELD, HAMPSHIRE GU31 5HZ Tel: 01730 821811 Email: office@johnjenkins.co.uk NEW YORK SHOWROOM, 41 MADISON AVENUE, 13TH FLOOR, NEW YORK, NY 10010 Tel: 1-800-818-8484
www.johnjenkins.co.uk
STARTERS xxx
Yuxi Hilton Jinan South Hotel & Residences
With 420-keys (316 guestrooms and 104 residences), 40 floors and spread
an important economic centre for northern China that is increasingly driving
over 66,000m2, Hilton Jinan South Hotel & Residences is a substantial
leisure tourism and corporate travel.”
project and the first international hotel in Jinan South.
The hotel’s signature restaurant Yuxi is the highest in the city, sitting on
Intended to cater to the city’s booming MICE sector, the hotel features 10
the 39th and 40th floors. Featuring a traditional but refined interior, the
multi-function meeting rooms and a 1,050sqm grand ballroom, in addition
restaurant was designed in collaboration with Wilson Associates’ Blueplate
to a comprehensive F&B offer, with a primarily Chinese bent.
Studios, a niche studio specialising in F&B development and led by Design
“We are committed to strengthening our footprint within China,
Director Dennis Tan.
specifically in the locations where both our leisure and business guests are
Named after the ancient privy seal belonging to the emperor, Yuxi
travelling,” says Bruce McKenzie, SVP of Operations for Greater China and
showcases authentic dishes based upon Lu and Cantonese cuisine and in
Mongolia at Hilton Worldwide. “A milestone achievement in the growth
addition to a sizeable main dining area, features 11 private dining rooms.
and evolution of our portfolio, the opening of Hilton Jinan South Hotel & Residences brings our flagship brand to the capital city of Shandong Province,
ww3.hilton.com
IN A BITE Operator: Hilton Worldwide • Owner: Shandong Luneng Genfu Development Co. Ltd. • Interior Design: Blueplate Studios • Furniture: Gold Phoenix Furniture Int. Group • Carpet: Haima Carpet • Lighting: Kamtat Lighting
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The Ned London Words: Emilee Tombs
T
here aren’t many places in the world that elicit a
“It’s fair to say the Square Mile wasn’t on my radar as
genuine gasp upon walking through the door. But
a place to be,” says Jones. “But I fell in love with the
The Ned, Soho House’s newest London outpost,
building as soon as I saw it. Spaces like this don’t come
certainly does.
along very often.
Set in The City, an area of London home to - during
that have changed over the last 10 years. It used to be that
lawyers, and the types of professions that demand suit-
a wine bar was open until 8pm and that was it. Now there’s
and-tie wearing in the office, The Ned occupies the site
a good restaurant scene and a lot going on at the weekend.
of the former Midland Bank, one of Europe’s biggest and
The Barbican is around the corner, as is Guildhall Art
busiest banks during its operation from 1924. Designed
Gallery, Borough Market and Shoreditch House.”
by the architect Sir Edward (aka Ned) Lutyens, the Grade
It’s also a bold move, time-wise, to open another
I-listed building cost a staggering £200 million to renovate
members club, when the hotly anticipated The Curtain -
and is vast, with 252 bedrooms, a rooftop pool, gym, spa,
by those people behind New York’s ever-popular Hotel
hammam, late night bar and club. That’s all aside from
Gansevoort - also opened in the summer, and there are
the nine restaurants and bars that are also open to non-
rumours from The Arts Club’s people that a new spot will
members.
open further east at fellow financial district, Canary Wharf.
A partnership between London-based Soho House & Co
“The Ned is for everyone,” Jones asserts. “It is a lot more
and New York’s Sydell Group (NoMad, The Line and Freehand
accessible and nothing to do with any of the other clubs. I
hotels), its location is an interesting choice for Soho House
just wanted to open something for anyone who likes eating,
founder Nick Jones, who has previously said that the suited
drinking and having a good time.”
types that frequent this kind of neighbourhood are not those
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“The City area is on the move. There are a lot of things
the weekdays at least - a majority crowd of bankers and
In its new incarnation, the main public space of The Ned,
he wants on the members’ lists at his collection of Soho
which used to be the central banking hall, is breath-taking.
Houses around the world. Yet stepping over the marble
Channelling the glamour of the Art Deco era, the project’s
threshold into the cavernous space with its original stucco
three in-house designers - supported by the Soho House
walls and ceilings soaring overhead, and Art Deco design
design team, led by Marcus Barwell - created something akin
sympathetically remastered, it’s quite easy to see what
to a 1930s transatlantic ocean liner, or perhaps Macy’s food
tempted him here.
hall - a decadent place for socialising and a place to be seen.
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Cecconi’s
Malibu Kitchen
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Adam Greco, who has been with Soho House since 2013,
Californian-inspired health-conscious grab-and-go spot
worked on the overall concept, sourcing vintage curios from
with beautiful cut-glass screens by Lead & Light; and Kaia,
around the world. Alice Lund, Senior Designer at Soho House
a health-conscious Asian eaterie. In the main hall sits the
since June 2014, focused on the public spaces and enlisted
member’s only Lutyens Grill; Zobler’s Delicatessen, a riff
the skills of British wallpaper makers De Gournay to hand-
on 2017’s hottest food trend; Ceconni’s, a Venetian small
paint a mural that wraps around the walls of the reception
plates restaurant that has outposts around the world,
space on two levels. Lund was also responsible for the
including Mayfair, West Hollywood and Istanbul; and
delivery of the 300-plus bespoke joinery items, including
opposite, Millie’s Lounge, where the menu includes meats
the eight restaurants and nine leisure outlets. Rebecca
and fish sourced locally, as well as typical British fare, ales,
King, a New York based interior designer, took care of the
cocktails and a wine list that features all the great English
furniture and lighting design.
vineyards. Tableware from Heritage completes the Great
In the main hall, Lund has chosen to separate the nine restaurants using 92 protected verdite columns and rows of
British theme. At The Nickel Bar, a waistcoated bartender expertly
Grade I-listed walnut banking counters rather than walls,
mixes ‘Nedronis’. Millie’s restaurant curves around a
encircling a stage-cum-bandstand (the former reception of
marble-topped bar, and is comprised of casual low-lying
the bank) where a rotation of swing and soft jazz bands are
tables with grass green chesterfields and the pastel pink art
lined up throughout the week. It’s an arresting effect, not
deco booths. During the day it’s filled with light thanks to
just because it’s so enormous, but because there is nowhere
those big semi-circular windows, and sexily lit by antique
in London like it.
Arts & Crafts panel lamps by night. The menu features
The open plan concept elicits a lively, yet easy-going
plump oysters from Sussex and molten-in-the-middle
vibe. There are people milling from this bar to that,
scotch eggs, and some accomplished fish and steak-
lounging on plush velvet banquettes, listening to the band
and-chips. The dishes do a fine job of showcasing British
and chatting; having Tête à Têtes at Cecconi’s with plates of
produce, cocktails are simple and impressive, as are the
cicchetti; and people having lavish three-course dinners at
knowledgeable waiters.
Millie’s Lounge, all the while bobbing along to the sound of big band tunes. Given the location, it should be suit-filled, but as it’s
While The Ned is definitely a members’ club, the only sign of it in the part of the building that houses its F&B is the closed doors to Lutyens Grill and the Vault Bar,
a Soho House outpost, the crowd is a mix of creatives,
which resides behind an original, heavy bank vault door
Chelsea boys and girls, and suits too, all mingling happily.
at the bottom of a flight of stairs below the main hall.
It is already a popular spot for an aperitif or post-work
Sandwiched inbetween the entrance to both male and
drinks, as well as lingering business lunches. A skylight
female washrooms, it is tempting for non-members, almost
lets in plenty of afternoon sun during the day, in contrast
certain to be intrigued by its sparkle.
to the ambient gold, brass, moss green seating and Carrara
If searching ‘The Ned’ on social media, the most
marble. It’s gorgeous, sympathetic to its roots, and
Instagrammed shot found is of this door, despite it not
although likely to be busy, it doesn’t feel suffocating thanks
being opened to very many people. It is proof positive that
to the abundance of light and space.
Nick Jones, and his Soho House Group are still exceptionally
In the east wing of the main hall there’s Café Sou, a
good at making people want to join the club.
place by Little Paris Kitchen chef, Rachel Khoo serving French café style pastries and salads; Malibu Kitchen, a
www.thened.com
IN A BITE Covers: 1000+ • Executive Chef (production) - Zobler’s, Kaia, Cafe Sou: Ewart Wardhaugh • Executive Chef - Millie’s, Lutyens Grill, Nickel Bar: Luke Rayment • Executive Chef - Cecconi’s, Malibu Kitchen, Ned’s Club Upstairs, The Vault: Michele Nargi • Head Bartender: Dan Berger • Interior Design: In-house team – Adam Greco, Alice Lund, Rebecca King • Architecture: EPR • Owner / Operator: Soho House Group, Sydell Group • Tableware: Burleigh • Glassware: Soho Home
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Asian codfish in miso butter with shitaki pakchoi
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Café Colonial Memmo Príncipe Real, Lisbon
Words: Harry McKinley
I
n recent years Lisbon has been nicknamed the ‘hipster
also somewhat like the city at large: discreet at first but
capital of Europe’, the ‘new capital of cool’ and ‘Europe’s
increasingly revealing new layers of excitement.
trendiest city’. Whilst such monikers are often to be taken with a pinch of salt, when it comes to the largest
metropolis in Portugal, there’s more than a grain of truth. A low-rise and historic sprawl on the banks of the Tagus
A new build from architect Samuel Torres de Carvalho, it is stylistically enigmatic; a sleek four-floor structure that evokes the mid-century modern period with its angular silhouette and integration into the hill on which it perches.
Estuary, it combines sleepy coffee shop culture with a high-
Its striking façade is only revealed after passing through
octane bar scene. But it wears its modish credentials in a
an arched alleyway – the hotel located on a plot detached
rather quiet and unassuming way. Like the coolest person
from the main street and obscured by buildings of a more
in the room, it perhaps garnered its many admirers by not
traditional nature.
trying too hard. Príncipe Real is one of the city’s hottest neighbourhoods
The hotel’s restaurant and bar occupies most of the entry floor; the lobby curving into the dining area and lounge,
and it is here that many of the native bright young things
and a large terrace providing a spot for guests to absorb
and European visitors come to work, play and relax.
the arresting views. Here too the look is one of nostalgic
Adjacent to Barrio Alto, a district famed for its rowdy
modernity, with the interior overseen by Torres and João
nightlife, Príncipe Real is characterised by its classic
Correa Nunes. Pieces of furniture designed specially by
architecture, array of design and lifestyle-led stores, and
Torres live side by side with vintage finds. Contemporary
its numerous outdoor spaces – ideal for short coffees
paintings by Miguel Branco hang on the walls.
during long afternoons. It’s also the site of the latest
Whist this 41-key boutique is the first five-star in the
hotel from Memmo Unforgettable Hotels, now a trio of
neighbourhood, the restaurant and bar, Café Colonial, isn’t
properties that includes a hotel in Lisbon’s Alfama and
primarily intended to appeal to the influx of tourists to
another in the Algarve.
Lisbon, hip or otherwise. Instead General Manager Rodrigo
As is true of the other hotels in the family, Memmo Príncipe Real prides itself on fitting in with its surroundings and the attitude of the local neighbourhood. But it’s
Machaz has his sights set firmly on the resident crowd. “Café Colonial is our first restaurant targeting the locals,” he says. “The food, service, atmosphere and pricing
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were considered to attract the local community and to be part of the
plates from Costa Nova. In the afternoons light meals and bar snacks are
neighbourhood day by day. Hotel guests are always welcome, but we
available, whilst in the evening the restaurant opens for main service
want to make sure that they get in touch with the people of the area and
along with the signature cocktail bar.
don’t just have dinner in one of touristic restaurants of the city.” It’s little surprise therefore, that whilst the hotel is regularly at full
During the opening of the hotel, the team collaborated with Luís Domingos, owner of drinks company Black Pepper & Basil, on the
occupancy, locals make up 90% of the trade at the 55-cover restaurant,
development of the cocktail menu. As in the restaurant, there is a local
which in turn already represents around 35% of Memmo Príncipe Real’s
sensibility. Mixes like Port Tonic and the Amarguinha Sour – made
revenues. It’s a percentage Machaz, and Executive Assistant Manager
with a Portuguese almond liquer – provide a suitably regional twist
Eduardo Consiglieri Pedroso hope to grow, as the venue cements itself as
on international favourites. The hotel partners with Diageo and stocks
a destination restaurant and important lifestyle spot.
multiple brands from the company’s portfolio, with a spiky cooper
Tapping the local set requires a particularly sensitive approach to cuisine and at Café Colonial dishes are intended to reflect Portugal’s
Absolut Elyx pineapple adorning the bar. For most city hotels, and certainly design-led boutiques, creating
influence around the world, whilst still offering an original take on the
a destination restaurant and bar that succeeds in being just that, is
region’s favourites. It is a thoughtfully conceived menu, from Chef Vasco
perhaps the holy grail of contemporary hotel F&B. At Café Colonial it is
Lello, that not once veers into cliché territory.
so far mission achieved, and the restaurant is on an upward trajectory.
“This is a place for conversation, a sense of community and melting
But it’s still early days for this new hotel in an increasingly lauded
pot of Portuguese heritage,” Machaz continues. “In many ways it’s a
portion of Lisbon, and Machaz has plans. Capitalising on the dramatic
Portuguese journey around the world, with influences from Brazil, Africa
skyline vista, the terrace will soon play host to DJs and a sundown happy
and Asia, combined in contemporary dishes that linger in the memory.
hour. On the currently unutilised roof there’s scope for private cocktail
This is a very different concept from the other restaurants in the area.”
events and room for 60 guests.
A starter of fried chicken wings with peri peri sauce, okra and peanut
Memmo Príncipe Real is a member of Design Hotels, and this year the
is infused with the spirit of Angola, a former Portuguese colony. On the
group’s Arena conference will be held in the city. The hotel is set to host
mains menu, meagre with Bulhão Pato rice, razor clams and cockles
attendees for the welcome cocktail and there’s little doubt that many
represents one of the country’s most enduring and popular flavour
will be taking notes. After all, it’s only fair that the city that captured the
profiles. For dessert there are tastes of Brazil, in the Quindim with
attention of Europe’s ‘coolest’ should share some of its secrets.
passion fruit ice cream and lime; and São Tomé, in a decadent chocolate creation with banana and caramel praline. The dishes are confident and
www.memmohotels.com/principereal
speak to the broad culinary legacy of a former empire, but also to the forward-looking character of today’s Portugal. Throughout the day the restaurant evolves. Mornings are exclusively for guests, who can choose between light and flavoursome à la carte options, or set themselves up for the day at a breakfast bar well-stocked with cereals, cold meats and crowd-pleasing Pasteis de Nata; served on
IN A BITE Covers: 55 • Owner / Operator: Memmo Unforgettable Hotels • Interior Design: Samuel Torres de Carvalho, João Correa Nunes • Architecture: Samuel Torres de Carvalho • Executive Chef: Chef Vasco Lello • Head Bartender: Diogo Simões • Tableware: Costa Nova • Glassware: Nachtmann, Spiegelau Cutlery: Cutipol • Menu Design: José Carlos Mendes • Uniform Design: Juliana Cavalcanti • Suppliers: Diageo
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Hermosos & Malditos Tótem Madrid
Words: Emilee Tombs
A
city of contrasts, Madrid surprises at almost every turn.
came up with the name Hermosos y Malditos, or ‘The Beautiful and the
Ritzy Salamanca is all museums, apartment blocks and wide,
Damned’, and decided to create a thread through the design, based on
attractive boulevards lined with grand trees and designer
the book and its characters.
stores. The La Latina barrio is made up of meandering
A lot of the time all of the different areas are first created for the
and contemporary food markets, packed to bursting at the weekend.
hotel with functionality and service in mind. We wanted to create
In the smaller establishments, where you can enjoy half a dozen sardines fresh off the grill alongside a local beer, little care is given to
multifunctional spaces that were entirely for the customer,” he smiles. “Here, we are sat in the lobby, and yet we are also sat in the bar. A lot
décor. Here, it’s straight function over form. Yet, in Salamanca, where
of hotels don’t seem to have a soul these days, you know? If you are a
home-grown and international designer fashion stores and restaurants
guest, maybe you also want the hotel to have a great bar, and not just
are fitted with minimalist interiors by big name architects and interior
somewhere with a lot of luggage and typical hotel functions. We tried to
designers, the scene is somewhat blander. There seems little room for
create a different ambience, a different world, but all in the same place.”
experimentation or creativity. It’s for this reason that Hermosos y Malditos, inside Tótem Hotel,
The ambience in the bar, as Chauvin claims, is both chic and homely. Damned, as the bar is known, represents the heady spirit of Fitzgerald’s
has made such an impact. It’s design and concept is a fresh and exciting
party-loving protagonists, with a large back bar fanned by parlour
turn against a sea of white, grey and concrete on these well-manicured
palms, hand-painted wallpaper and a collection of plush midnight
streets. Translating to English as ‘The Beautiful and the Damned’, the
blue velvet sofas or powder pink rattan armchairs to curl up on with a
concept is based on the 1922 F. Scott Fitzgerald book of the same name:
devilish drinking partner after dinner.
the author’s second novel that tells a tale of socialites and café society in turn-of-the-century New York. The theme is the brainchild of Better, a platform for content, brands
Beautiful applies to the main restaurant, a light and airy space decked out with mid-century style furniture in blond wood and banquets in stone beige, punctuated with foliage and bespoke bronze laser-cut
and communication. Specialising in gastronomy and hospitality, it
panelling, as well as collections of vintage curios. The idea is to come
partnered with Palma-based hotel conception, launch and operation
for dinner or brunch - on Sundays it is particularly busy - and saunter
group Marugal for the project.
next door for cocktails to end or, as is often the case for night owl
“The street that [Tótem] is on is named ‘Hermosilla’, which in Spanish, is a variation of the word ‘beautiful’,” says Marugal’s Food and Beverage General Manager Karim Chauvin. “Along with Better, we
060
“I think it’s very important these days for a hotel to have a concept.
cobbled streets that hide tucked away tapas eateries, leafy rooftop bars
Madrileños, start the night. “The point is to make people feel comfortable and at home here,” says Chauvin, a Lyon native whose main experience is in the drinks business,
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Mackerel skewers, mussels Image: Rafa Suñén
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as a former general manager at champagne brand Ruinart in Spain. He
overly fussy cooking, but neither is it lacking in style and awareness of
also owned his own restaurant in Madrid, Café Oliver, which was highly
what a contemporary diner might want to eat.
successful, and so he knows how he wants the F&B side to function within a hotel. Besides the chefs and mixologists, there are a lot of people involved in
A starter of lentils with foie gras is more interesting and complex in flavour than may be anticipated, and a main of house-made truffle and Parmesan pasta rivals any other fine dining Italian restaurant. Brunch
the creation of this broth. Design of the two F&B spaces is the combined
is also well-executed. A menu of various styles of eggs is designed to
work of Corium Casa, a Barcelona-based studio run by Nori Furlan and
transport guests to different places from the novel and reference the life
Paco Llonch; Alejandra Ansón and Miguel Bonet, who previously ran
of F. Scott Fitzgerald: La Riviera, East Eggs, Long Island and Alabama, as
Better’s pop-up chef event The Table By at Tótem’s sister hotel URSO;
well as a nod to his great love, Zelda.
and Marugal, which manages Tótem, as well as sister hotel URSO and five other properties throughout Spain and France. At Tótem local work is celebrated, most notably in the form of
Of course, the food needs to be accomplished to stand up to Madrid’s lauded culinary scene, which chefs such as David Muñoz have helped to bring into the spotlight in recent years. Seating up to 70 diners,
carpentry and tableware in the restaurant, and in the fabrics, wallpaper
the restaurant has a warm, welcoming atmosphere and every detail is
and furniture in the bar. By night the bar is full, not just with hotel
considered, with tableware specially designed by Spanish firm Vajillas de
guests but locals, and Chauvin attributes this both to the skill of his
Ultramar.
barmen and the homely atmosphere. The menu at Hermosos is the work of executive chefs Rodolfo de
In the bar, mixologist Fran Camino serves either from a long list of classic and contemporary cocktails, or creates bespoke serves based
Bernardi and Nacho Tirado, and focuses on Mediterranean dishes with a
on guests’ tastes. The atmosphere is buzzy and dynamic, a mix of
health-conscious bent. Rodolfo de Bernadi was formerly a key member
older moneyed types and hip young things, many of whom are already
of the team at The Table By, supporting each of the chefs who visited
regulars at this new neighbourhood spot.
the restaurant during its second season as a pop-up, while Nacho Tirado previously worked at La Tasquita de Enfrente and Le Cabrera. This is not
www.hermososymalditosmadrid.com
IN A BITE Covers: 80 Executive Chefs: Rodolfo de Bernardi, Nacho Tirado Head Bartender: Fran Camino Interior Design: Corium Casa Architecture: Gerardo Mingo (Future Group) Operator: Marugal Tableware: Vajillas de Ultramar, Vista Alegre, Serax Glassware: Klimer (supplier) Cutlery: Acme Table Decoration, Menu Design: Better
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The Restaurant at Address Address Boulevard, Dubai Words: Harry McKinley
D
owntown Dubai is undeniably a marvel
living spaces, as they seek to present a home from
Khalifa – a soaring architectural spear that
home that feels genuinely, comfortably and familiarly
stands as testament to the city’s ambition
homely. But at Address Boulevard, subtle influences
and rapid development – to the vast Dubai Mall,
give way to spaces specifically themed around a
the project encompasses residential, retail, civic
kitchen, lounge, living room, study, dressing room
and hospitality spaces on a scale rarely seen. As the
and collection room; with a library, games room and
flagship mega-development of Emaar Properties, it’s
music room thrown in for good measure.
also a slice of the city punctuated with Address hotels
The sweeping but subdivided space was developed
and residences, each catering to a different segment
by Imagination and designed by Carlos Virgile of
of Dubai’s plentiful tourist market.
Virgile and Partners. As well as completing F&B
Address Dubai Mall, for example, lures
projects for the likes of Andaz Delhi and Crowne
predominantly GCC shoppers thanks to its promise
Plaza Belgrade, Virgile and Partners has worked
of world class retail on the doorstep; while Address
extensively on top-tier retail projects, including
Downtown was the first hotel from the Address
Harrods’ Luxury Rooms and the beauty hall of
Hotels + Resorts brand, and appealed to an
Harvey Nichols in London. Indeed, at The Restaurant
international audience keen to take advantage of the
at Address, there is clearly a deft hand at play when
many gourmet dining experiences and remarkable
it comes to the meeting of hospitality and almost
views across the dancing fountains. It’s an audience
commercial perfection. Much like in a department
sure to flock back when the hotel reopens following
store, guests are sold a diet of immaculately curated
the fire of December 2015.
objects, bespoke furniture and carefully chosen
The newest kid on the block is the 72-storey Address
lighting. Each room is restful and relatable, but with
Boulevard, which features 196 five-star hotel rooms
just enough sense of aspiration to warrant the visit. It
and 523 serviced residences. Standing over Sheikh
is a home, but without the domesticity.
Mohammed Bin Rashid Boulevard, it is the sixth tallest
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Hotels have long drawn inspiration from everyday
of modern urban planning. From the Burj
The main formal dining area of The Restaurant at
building in an expanding metropolis that frequently
Address is composed of living room, study, dining
redefines what tall means in architectural terms. But
room and collection room – a gallery type space for
while the building – splendid though it is – is not
the display of objects and art. Whilst each has its
exactly an oddity in a city of skyscrapers, the F&B is a
own character, a cohesive aesthetic runs throughout:
much more original proposition: a 24-hour restaurant
sophisticated grey and ivory walls offset with sharp
intended to evoke a bourgeois Parisian apartment.
accents of blue, yellow and red in the furnishings.
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La Casserole
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xxx The clean, modern lines of the interior are echoed in the tableware, with
with the towers of Boulevard Plaza looming alongside, the terrace is a
plates by Bernardaud and Revol. Cutlery is by Guy Degrenne, completing
connecting element that leads into the restaurant space, as well as the
a line-up of tabletop brands known for their minimal and progressive
bar and ‘library’.
design sensibility. As is de rigueur for the region, the restaurant also
The nature of the region’s climate, as well as its culture, means that
features a discreet private dining room, secreted behind a library wall
GCC nationals are invariably known as night owls. Many retail outlets
that parts to allow entry.
are open until midnight, and Cafes, restaurants and sheesha joints often
On the design, Virgile says, “The concept had to create a perfect fit
still buzz well into the wee hours. With this in mind, perhaps the most
to match the exclusive lifestyle of guests. The idea was to reimagine the
novel aspect of Address Boulevard’s F&B offer is in its approach to all-
predictable hotel eating and socialising experience as a lived-in concept;
day-dining. With an, ‘eat what you want, when you want’ ethos, the
a place that feels real, like a luxury residential setting where the ‘owners’
restaurant is open 24-hours.
live, enjoy their surroundings and invite their friends to share the place.” From more formal dining – albeit with an easy air – to relaxed, the
The decision to develop a model that works around the clock not only fits within the framework of a home-style concept, but takes
kitchen and its pantry provide a fast and informal area for breakfast, or
into account the character of the local market, as well as the modern
for socialising over coffee.
traveller. No longer relegated to room service or bar snacks, late
Overseen by Executive Chef Enrique Gonzales, the menu at The
arrivals, business travellers and those with a tendency to get peckish
Restaurant at Address is a polished mix of Mediterranean classics
at 3am, can still be delivered an elevated dining experience. As General
with the occasional Middle Eastern staple – think smooth burrata
Manager Pascal Dupuis says, “The Restaurant at Address is a focal point
with tomatoes, or hummus with an appetising well of feta and olives.
of the hotel. It redefines the concept of all-day-dining in a carefully
The wine list, meanwhile, continues the focus on European vintages,
curated space and marks a first. It will appeal to guests who value the
featuring the likes of Gosset Champagne and reds from the historic
true nature of ‘make yourself at home’. The specially crafted menu
Italian wine house Cossetti.
represents a shift in culinary thinking and provides the visitor with a
During the months when Dubai’s sweltering desert heat has given way
novel culinary experience in one of the city’s most exciting restaurants.”
to balmy warmth and calm, clear nights, diners can take advantage of Address Boulevard’s terrace. With views across to the Burj Khalifa and
www.theaddress.com
IN A BITE Covers: 231 restaurant, 128 bar Developer: Emaar Properties Operator: Emaar Hospitality Group Interior Design: Imagination (Concept), Carlos Virgile (Design) Architecture: Dilionardo Tableware: Bernerdaud, Revol Glassware: LSA International, Mario Cioni Cutlery: Guy Degrenne, Studio William
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OyaChef Earl Grey, apple and jasmine
Levrek Seabass sashimi with mustard, apple and shaved radish
Turkish Delights A new vision for an historic cuisine, RĂźya at Grosvenor House Hotel, Dubai, explores the quality, diversity and vibrancy of Anatolia. As well as taking guests on a rich gastronomic journey, the intricate interior from Conran and Partners takes classic references and places them in a new context: a vision of Turkey for the international eye. Simit Turkish bagel
The first of a new bijou brand from d.ream, RĂźya is an original Anatolian concept launched in Dubai, but soon to be translated for markets with a taste for soulful food and bold experiences.
Firin Pancar Roasted baby beetroot, goats cheese and corn bread
Simit Turkish bagel
Photography: Hyku D Photography Chef: Colin Clague Location: Rüya, Grosvenor House Dubai Venue Design: Conran and Partners Operator: d.ream (Doğuş Restaurant Entertainment and Management)
Homemade Pastirma Cured beef, pickled baby vegetables and grilled sour dough
Whole grilled seabream Spiced herb rub, lemon dressing and Havucsalatasi
Keskek Barley risotto with pulled lamb and spices
Bรถrek Filo wrapped feta cheese with carrots, zucchini and walnuts
Two cheese pide From the black sea Slow cooked egg
Midye Dolma Mussels filled with rice, breadcrumbs and herbs
Gavurdagi Tomato salad with shallots, pomegranate and spiced walnuts
Dry Martini with olive
At times playful and mischievous, at others dark and rocky. Brintons Skulduggery is a melting pot of urban graphical styles, each telling its own story. Add a new level of colouration and design to your hotel projects using Brintonsยน patented High Definition 32-colour Weave technology.
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02/06/2017 16:43
The Galloping Major Oddfellows on the Park, Manchester
Words: Harry McKinley
T
here are some that would debate Manchester’s status as England’s second city. It isn’t, after all, the second most populous by metro area. Greater Manchester, however, is a very different story. It’s somewhat fitting that the addition of that one word
changes the picture, because there is little debate that Manchester is just that: great. Recent years have seen the city’s hotel scene flourish, with the likes of the The Gotham, King Street Townhouse and The Principal all opening to much fanfare. Set to arrive in the near future is The Zetter Group, which is well on its way to refurbishing the historic London Road Fire Station. Such hospitality development is a sign of Manchester’s rapidly growing reputation internationally. Far from a backwater to consistently be compared to it’s much bigger, much more popular big brother, London, it is gradually being recognised as a dynamic destination in its own right. It may have recently made global headlines due to the devastating terrorist attack on the arena, but it also made just as many thanks to the show of spirit, resolve and community that was demonstrated in the aftermath. As well as its beating urban heart, Manchester also features a charming array of leafy, residential pockets, defined by high streets that hold some
xxxof the best bars, restaurants and cafes in the country. Venturing out can hold as many rewards for visitors as the concrete centre.
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Panna Cotta
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Sitting in a vast park in Cheadle, a suburban village 30
the kitchen, the hotel nabbed rising star Ian Moss. Having
minutes drive from the city centre and even less to the
previously worked at the likes of Petrus with Marcus
airport, Oddfellows in the Park is the latest hotel to open in
Wareing, The Ledbury with Brett Graham, The Goring and
the city, but one that offers an entirely different experience
Northcote, Moss is a dab hand at fine dining. Here he is
from other fresh additions.
being given the opportunity to flex his culinary muscles in a
A renovated Victorian mansion, the property is steeped in history. But its heritage has been combined with whimsical
“It’s the first place I’ve been allowed to just to do my
modernity to create a destination that feels at once
own thing,” he says. “I get to do what I want and I’m
luxurious and playful. As General Manager Paul Cookson
able to play around.” And play he does. In the park grows
says: “We do things differently here.”
wild garlic and nettles, and Moss regularly forages for
Oddfellows on the Park has the distinction of being the first member of Design Hotels in the UK outside of London,
ingredients to use in the restaurant’s dishes. The importance Moss puts on local and seasonal
and, as that suggests, design is important. Overseen by
ingredients is reflected in a menu that evolves year round,
Manchester studio SpaceInvader, the interiors retain many
depending on what is fresh and available. It’s a confident
period features that give the building its sense of grandeur,
menu that bestows the virtue of clear, robust flavours. Moss
but also subverts them with contemporary flourishes. An
has little time for what he describes as ‘the fiddly bits’.
ornate wooden staircase in the main entry hall is flanked
“I don’t want to overcomplicate things. If you take away
by great transparent panes, while in The Galloping Major
from the raw ingredient, you lose what it’s supposed to be.
– the hotel’s signature restaurant – a decorative original
I think things like gels and foams work for other people, but
fireplace plays host to curving Riedel decanters. For a hotel
not for me,” he says.
in the middle of park, the restaurant is, of course, key, and The Galloping Major has high ambitions. To oversee the development of the menus and head up
078
menu that is ‘all his’.
For such a young and seemingly reserved chef, his dishes represent a maturity and composure, and his skill is evident throughout. A star dish of suckling pig with
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langoustine showcases his butcher skills – “I do a lot of
ingredients of a dish, Iulianella is passionate about the
my own butchery. It makes me smile. It’s a bit weird, but
ingredients of the dining experience. He insisted on
it does.” – while a deconstructed doughnut rhubarb and
glassware from Riedel and worked closely with Heritage
custard shows that, for all of his puritanism, he certainly
Collection’s Martin McDonagh to get just the right brushed
has a hand for innovation.
silverware for the tables.
For a fine dining restaurant, The Galloping Major aims
His other passion is wine, and indeed Oddfellows on
for relaxed. There are no white tablecloths - the unspoken
the Park holds a 180-variety collection that is more than
symbol of pomp - and service is friendly. On this side of
comprehensive for a 22-key hotel. It took him three months
the pass responsibility falls to Carlo Iulianella, the hotel’s
to build and features vegan and organic wines alongside
operations manager and F&B director. “People might think
well-known houses. A partnership with Pernod Ricard sees
it’s fine dining,” he says, “But we still need to keep the
varying vintages of Perrier-Jouët and G.H. Mumm line one
quirkiness of Oddfellows. We’re not stiff and ultimately this is
wall of the hotel’s wine cellar.
an F&B focused hotel. If we don’t get it right, we’ve failed.” Part of getting it right means flexibility, and Iulianella
While the hotel and its restaurant continue to find their feet and assert their presence in an increasingly buoyant
credits the nimbleness of the culture at Oddfellows for
region, Iulianella and Moss have taken to borrowing the
what the restaurant has already become. Those white
hotel’s bikes and cycling around the immense park with
tablecloths for example: “We originally had them, but
bite-size samples of The Galloping Major’s dishes. And
we quickly decided to get rid of all of that. That’s the
so as if to fulfil a preordained mission, visitors and local
great thing about this brand - if an idea is good we can
residents alike now have reason to celebrate those odd
implement it immediately, and if something isn’t working
fellows on the park.
we can change it.” In the way in which Moss is passionate about the
www.oddfellowsonhtepark.com
IN A BITE Covers: 40 • Operator: Oddfellows Management Company • Interior Design: SpaceInvader • Head Chef: Ian Moss • Tableware: Heritage Collection Glassware: Riedel, LSA International • Cutlery: Heritage Collection
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1477 Hotel Camiral, PGA Catalunya Resort
Words: Harry McKinley
W
hen it comes to F&B, hotels within five-star
– some in cool white metal, while others are reminiscent
golf resorts can sometimes have a reputation.
of lobster pots. It’s large – 120-covers inside, 100 on the
They might conjure images of stuffy dining
terrace and with a private dining room for 48 – but broken
halls bedecked with pictures of the green, or
up by pillars, screens and a carefully considered seating
perhaps an audience of diners in checked trousers and polo shirts combined with blazers. Hotel Camiral goes some way to exploding these
For Director of Operations, Rafael González, defying expectation is an important element of the offer. “For a
stereotypes. It may lie within PGA Catalunya, a world-class
restaurant to be successful it needs to be made specially
resort for those who like to putt, and where villas sell for
with the target customer in mind. We are in a golf resort
tens of millions, but it is far from a hotel defined by the
in Catalunya, but in terms of concept we want to give the
sport going on around.
guest more than they are expecting.”
With a design-led sensibility and a wealth of leisure
The menu takes from the best of European cuisine and
facilities it is equally a refined spot for guests wishing to
infuses it with staunchly Catalan influences. It’s just
take in the sights of nearby Gerona, or simply languish by
what one would hope from Chef Ramón Simarro. Born
the pool and enjoy some of the reliable Catalan sun. With
in Barcelona, he has made a name for himself working
this in mind the 149-key hotel delivers a restaurant that
at the likes of the three Michelin-starred El Racó de Can
wouldn’t be out of place in a swish urban locale; good
Fabes, Alkimia in Barcelona and the world-renowned
looking, sophisticated and with a thoroughly modern vibe.
Zuma in London.
1477 was designed by Lázaro Rosa-Violán, and is an
082
arrangement, guests are still afforded a sense of intimacy.
Here, he has left behind the more global of his
elegant space in which quiet details are more important
influences and focuses on flavourful dishes that celebrate
than grand gestures. Floral patterned pillows rest on plush
the ingredients. “Each dish is designed around one key
tan leather banquettes and bold lampshades catch the eye
ingredient, whether that’s ultra fresh langoustines or
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Arroz de gambas de Palamos
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succulent prime aged beef,” he says, “and of course
Our Lounge Bar provides a large selection of tapas, platters
presented with creative flair.” His own favourite is the
to share, salads and sandwiches, and guests can eat any
creamy rice with Palamós prawns, a modern take on a
time from 10:30am to 10:30pm. Then there’s the in-room
traditional dish that represents the overall ethos of the
dining menu which is, of course, available 24 hours and
menu. Other highlights include duck royale with foie gras
focuses on the likes of pasta, pizzas, salads and steak.
and seared tuna. While the restaurant wouldn’t be described as overly formal, both the tabletop presentation and service style
The Clubhouse is our second all-day-dinning offer. Being more informal, guests can have breakfast, lunch or dinner from our golfers’ a la carte menu.”
are smart. Waiters and waitresses waft through the room
The hotel is only the first step in a three-year
with decanters in hand, bowing to release the contents –
development plan for the resort, one that seeks to
chosen from a wine list that focuses, understandably, on
broaden its appeal and tap new sectors. In addition to
Spanish wines.
new sports facilities, an equestrian centre and a man-
For a resort hotel, F&B is notoriously important and at
made recreational lake, a vineyard is being planted which
Hotel Camiral it represents roughly 50% of revenue. Along
won’t yield its first vintage for several years to come. It’s
with 1477, a lounge bar, pool bar and clubhouse keep guests
indicative of the investment in the project, not just in
suitably fed and watered. During the day the terrace plays
financial terms but in time and planning. Hotel Camiral
host to a DJ spinning the kind of laid back Latin tunes that
represents the starting light on a long-term plan for the
conjure images of Rio de Janeiro or Havana. The striped
resort. But while the vines may not pay off for some time to
loungers and azure pool complete the reverie.
come, thankfully the restaurant already delivers.
“Being a resort hotel we have to receive guests at any time of the day,” says González. “So the offer reflects that.
www.hotelcamiral.com
IN A BITE Covers: 120 inside, 100 terrace, 48 private dining • Interior Design: Lázaro Rosa-Violán • Architecture: Lagula Arquitectes (Manel Morante Mediavilla) Glassware: LSA International, Luigi Bormioli • Cutlery: WMF • Buffet: Pordamsa, Le Creuset, Rosenthal, Elinium
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“On a busy shelf in a bar, having the immediacy of stand out design is key and can be the single most powerful piece of marketing a start-up brand like ours has.� Ben Branson, founder of Seedlip, on the importance of packaging.
AF_An.Hotelware_Matrix_236x275.pdf
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hotelware@vistaalegre.com vistaalegre.com
Vista Alegre USA 41 Madison Ave – 9th floor New York, NY 10010 Ph: +1 (888) 653-0108
COCKTAILS xxx
Director’s Cut Gōng, Shangri-La Hotel at The Shard, London
Influenced by legendary filmmakers, Gōng Bar’s Director’s Cut menu channels figures including Martin Scorsese, Steven Spielberg and Alfred Hitchcock through 16 unique cocktails. Spanning five themed categories – Adventure/ Fantasy; Romance/Science Fiction; Thriller/Drama; Crime/Action and Animation/Superhero, the menu mirrors the creativity and craft required to produce a film, and each has its own method of invention from the brewing of pineapple and coriander with cold coffee, to infusing a New Zealand sauvignon blanc with pine needles and honey. The menu stars Fear The Jungle, inspired by Spielberg’s Jurassic Park, featuring BarSol Quebranta Pisco, banana, pineapple skin sherbet, lime and Xocolatl Mole Bitters; as well as A Cat With No Name, created with Blake Edward’s Breakfast At Tiffany’s in mind, which combines Beefeater 24 Gin, yuzu and umeshu cordial, lavender and China Lung green tea, and is served stirred in an afternoon tea cup, just as Holly Golightly would have insisted upon. Each genre included within the menu is distinguished by its flavour profile, with Romance exploring drinks with fruit notes, flora and spices, whilst Thriller boasts a punchier taste, where sweet meets sour. The Superhero section, meanwhile, features herbal and non-alcoholic drinks, to ensure all audiences are catered for. www.gong-shangri-la.com
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Cold Fashioned Fine Food Bar, Austin Motel, Austin
Served as part of Austin Motel’s year-long Fine Foods concept, the Cold Fashioned puts a cool twist on the classic Old Fashioned mixture. Comprising a sparse combination of rye, citrus simple and bitters, this house speciality freezes the traditional mix for a refreshing kick. Served alongside other Austin Motel signatures including The Green Belt, which marries gin with lime, Chartreuse, Luxardo, chlorophyll and lime zest ‘pond scum’; and the Continental Breakfast, a vodka based serve that combines a house-made Bloody Mary mix with accoutrements. Also appearing on the Fine Foods menu are a selection of punches including the provocative Ann Richard’s Revenge, a fruity mixture involving rum, apricot syrup, pineapple juice and lime juice; The Dean, featuring vodka, cranberry, cherry syrup and lemon lime soda; and That Sangria Wine, boasting a distinctive mix of red wine, orange, cherry and various fruits. www.austinmotel.com
Image: Jackie Lee Young
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COCKTAILS
The Five Punch Room, The London Edition
Created by Bar Manager Davide Segat, Punch Room’s The Five is a menu that draws on each of the five distinct ingredients traditionally used to create punch: spirit, tea, citrus, sugar and spice. Comprising the drinks most prominent in their category, along with an added ‘curious and curiouser’ section for those feeling experimental, the menu features 30 new punches, a daily changing punch, and a new take on The London Edition’s house punch.
Tea with LBV Port, pineapple cordial, lemon sherbet and nutmeg. Elsewhere, the citrus section of the menu features a selection of sharp, palette-stimulating drinks, whilst punches with natural and unrefined sugars at their core make up the Sugar section. Spiced punches boast aromatic depths. Punch Room, nestled within The London Edition, is inspired by the grand traditions of Great Britain, and draws from aristocratic
Spirit-focused mixes, including Bolleponge: a combination of
English country manors and private London clubs in equal measure.
aqua vitae, rose tea, citrus juice, sugar and mace; and Arrack Punch,
Punch bowls are designed to be served to one, two, four, six or
which brings together Batavia Arrack van Oosten, Havana 7 Rum,
eight people.
citrus juice, chai tea and honey essence, are joined by more delicate tea blends such as Cold Ruby Punch, which marries Emerald Green
www.editionhotels.com/london
Alfresco 64 - A Chivas Bar lebua at State Tower / Tower Club at lebua, Bangkok
Words: Lauren Ho
W
hen CEO Deepak Ohri set his sights on
have set the trend. We believe when creating a destination,
creating the world’s highest open-air
you are competing with the best in the world, not just with
restaurant atop a neglected section of
what’s in your city.”
Bangkok’s State Tower skyscraper, many
the worldwide movement for rock-star mixologists, to
years later, Ohri’s vision has evolved into lebua Hotels
spearheading champagne by creating a bar dedicated to
& Resorts, a hospitality brand that includes a prized
the decadent drink, lebua has always been ahead of the
collection of destination restaurants and bars, along with an
curve. It’s no surprise then that its latest venture is just
international portfolio of properties, proving that F&B can
as exacting, with the launch of the world’s highest open
play the starring role within the hotel industry.
air whisky bar that aims to dispel the spirit’s conventional
In Bangkok specifically, the two all-suite hotels - lebua
reputation. “We want to break boundaries with this bar
at State Tower and Tower Club at lebua – are topped by The
and make whisky fashionable,” affirms Yadav. “We would
Dome, the group’s flagship offer of sky high drinking and
like to attract a younger crowd who are keen to experience
dining venues that, to name just two highlights, includes
something fun and vibrant, and appreciate that whisky
the world’s highest open-air restaurant, as well as a bar
doesn’t have to be such a serious drink.”
that sits dramatically on a specially designed precipice suspended 820ft above the city. “We have created a hotel out of food and beverage,”
092
Certainly, from being the first in Bangkok to zero in on
dismissed the idea, certain it would not succeed. 13
In fact, it was the success of the champagne bar – a joint venture with drinks producer Pernod Ricard – that spurred both companies to team up again for Alfresco
says Ohri. “We are the trendsetters in this sector.” Nishant
64 - A Chivas Bar. “We have a longstanding relationship
Yadav agrees. General manager of F&B at The Dome, he
with Pernod Ricard, but a business relationship always
has been around since the early days and is confident that
develops by testing the waters first,” explains Ohri. “We
the group is at the forefront of Bangkok’s drinking and
tested ours with the champagne bar, which did very well.
dining scene. “We were clear from the very beginning that
That was two years ago.” Quentin Job, Managing Director at
we wanted to do things that were unheard of in this city,”
Pernod Ricard Thailand agrees: “We were looking for a high
he says. “Over the years, we have come up with ideas that
level of quality and we knew from our previous work with
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DRINKS
lebua that they are at the very top of the pyramid. Pernod Ricard is very
with a wide bowl to enhance the aromas, and a metal chilling base that
serious about making a big impact and we’re in one of the best places in
cools the spirit without diluting it. “I was searching for something really
the world to deliver that.”
special,” explains Yadav. “The Peugeot glass is a fascinating product and
Located in a previously vacant space on the northern side of The Dome, the bar has been specially constructed with steel reinforcements to create an elevated platform that makes the most of the endless
we are the first to bring it into the country. Normann Copenhagen are also not in Asia, so they were very excited to be a part of this concept.” On the menu is a series of gentle whisky-based cocktails, such as
cityscape vistas over the meandering Chao Phraya River. Briefed by Ohri
Cloud 64, a concoction spiked with maraschino liqueur, pomegranate,
to create something ‘unconventional and very luxury’, local firm DWP –
honey, lime and soda - poured tableside over dry ice for added drama. Of
which is behind the design of all of The Dome’s venues – was inspired
course, all of the signature Chivas Regal blends – as well as a number of
by the glitzy world of luxury yachts. The result is sleek, sensuous curves,
premium whisky brands – are on offer, but for the true connoisseur, the
lacquered rosewood floors, stainless steel accents, recessed leather
company has, for the first time in 230 years, produced a limited edition
banquettes and soft concealed lighting in the ‘cabin’. Outside, the deck
blend for one specific client.
resembles a ship’s bow, which comes to a head with a glass-fronted
The creation of Colin Scott - the brand’s custodian master blender
nose. “We didn’t want this to look like a regular whisky bar,” explains
- and his team, the Chivas Regal lebua blend uses whisky that was
Yadav. “We wanted to stay away from dark rooms with traditional
distilled over 30 years ago. A limited edition, there are only 96 bottles
leather sofas and create something fun and vibrant”.
available, and with a price tag of USD$7,000 a bottle, it is best enjoyed
The bar’s nonconformity extends to its glassware, meticulously sourced by Yadav to include a custom-designed collection by Danish
the old fashioned way: in the bar’s private Heritage Tasting room, surrounded by a display of rare whiskies, a cigar in hand.
brand Normann Copenhagen and Peugeot’s Les Impitoyables Whisky Tasting Set, a smart device that includes an intelligently designed glass
www.lebua.com/alfresco-64
IN A BITE Covers: 50 Operator: Lebua Hotels and Resorts Head Bartender: Renu Sinpho Executive Chef: Emiliano Bernasconi Interior Design: Design Worldwide Partnership Tableware: Royal Tableware Thailand Glassware: Peugeot, Schott Zwiesel, Normann Copenhagen Cutlery: Broggi
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Serving Stories Words: Angus Winchester
From tall tales for tall drinks to short stories for short serves, when it comes to cocktails narrative can be key, even if fiction is often more popular than fact.
M
any years ago when I was a young bartender trying to make a mark in NYC and the Internet was still very new, I stumbled upon a website called Cocktail Time. It offered very slow loading but beautiful images and text about so called classic
cocktails. It featured drinks I had heard of, and many I hadn’t, with not only recipes but stories about their creation or the famous bars in which they were invented and when. It spurred a lightbulb moment as I realised that alcoholic drinks were not just fancy ways of getting drunk, but were rooted in times and places, and linked with people. I learnt that by memorising these stories I could actually ‘sell’ drinks to people and give them a deeper understanding of their genesis and mythology. My career took off, as I became known as both a good bartender and a walking encyclopedia. I have never looked back.
DRINKS
Recipe Seelbach Cocktail 1 oz. bourbon ½ oz. Cointreau 7 dashes Angostura Bitters 7 dashes Peychaud’s Bitters Champagne Stir spirits and bitters briefly over ice. Strain into a chilled flute. Top with champagne. Garnish with a lemon twist.
A few years later and I am sitting at the bar at Bayswater
been part of a
Brasserie - an influential Sydney cocktail bar, now defunct -
good bartender’s
sipping on a Cecil Baker (Tanqueray Gin, green apple liqueur,
repertoire. But as
Green Chartreuse and passionfruit) when I spy written at
with many facets
the end of the menu description, ‘who the hell is Cecil Baker
of hospitality, the art
anyway?’ So I ask Len the bartender. “It’s the name Robert
is changing with the
de Niro uses to check into hotels,” he says. I am intrigued. I
times and adapting as both
mention I used to serve Robert de Niro in NYC and he smiles.
audience and industry become
As I continue to sip I hear a young lady at the other end of
more sophisticated.
the bar - also with a Cecil Baker - make the same enquiry. “It’s
Whereas nowadays it seems
the name of the guy who played Brad Pitt’s bottom double in
that puns are the most popular
the film Troy,” Len replies confidently. She complains slightly
names for cocktails, in the past many
about film star vanity and bottom ogling and goes off to join
drinks were created to honour guests,
her friends.
the famous, significant events or created
Looking at the barman with a combination of confusion and
in significant bars by significant bartenders.
bemusement he explains how they wanted to create a cocktail
Newfangled mixes were dedicated to hot plays
named after someone but couldn’t agree on anyone. So they
or popular actors. New train lines or the election
made up the name and, in order to garnish the drink, if asked
of a popular politician were immortalised in cocktail
the bartender must make up a fantastic but believable story
form. From the Mary Pickford and the 20th Century
about who Cecil Baker is or was. I smiled and sipped.
to the Ward 8, the bartender and the guest were far less
I recall this story for two reasons. Firstly because the use of
cynical than today (drinks thus named these days often
storytelling is proven to engage an audience far better than facts
seem like a PR stunt or gimmick) and arguably felt the thrill of
and figures, and secondly to show that storytelling has always
community much more. While by no means all drinks followed
www.pordamsa.com instagram gallery: @pordamsadesignforchefs
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Recipe Cecil Baker 2 measures Tanqueray No. TEN Gin ½ measure Green Chartreuse ½ measure pomme verte liqueur ½ passionfruit A dash of passionfruit syrup Stir together like an Old Fashioned in a crushed ice filled tumbler then swizzle. Garnish with a rosemary stalk and two short straws.
this notion, most of the so-called ‘major’ classics have
and shortly after the Seelbach cocktail was born.
a story associated with them. It clothes the drink in rich
He promoted it, guests adored it and drinks writers
vestments of history and affords it added importance.
unquestioningly accepted it. When he confessed in 2016
Yet as the drinks and hospitality industry has
many guffawed at their own gullibility, but the drink
evolved a greater interest has been found in research
has entered into bar lore and is deeply drinkable and
and study, and over the last few years so many of the
still widely known, despite this mendacity.
older bartenders’ treasured stories have been proved to
Bartenders have always been the tellers of tall tales
be false. Winston Churchill’s mother was not involved
and most have more than a hint of self-aggrandisement
with the creation of the Manhattan as she was heavily
about them, and it’s in this vein that storytelling has
pregnant 3000 miles away. The Vesper - James Bond’s
entered the new millennium with the modern gaggle.
singular martini - was not invented at Dukes Hotel in
In a perfect storm of creativity and next generation
London and it’s unlikely that ‘Professor’ Jerry Thomas
marketing, cocktail and bartender competitions have
invented the Martinez for a miner as change for a gold
become the new cradle of mixology and mythology. When presenting their drinks to the judges they weave
Bartenders have always been the tellers of tall tales and most have more than a hint of self-aggrandisement about them
stories about the ingredients and their inspiration in order to deepen or create a connection and make the end product more memorable. They tell stories detailing how ideas were sparked, how the drink represents their personality or nationality, and of
nugget. Nonetheless these stories served an important
course how it links with the brands they are using.
purpose and created gravitas around classic cocktails
It’s compelling and beguiling.
that modern marketing cannot hold a candle to.
Brands, of course, have always been storytellers. From
A recent furore in the mixology world saw a famous
made up fans (you didn’t really think that there was
American bartender admit that he totally made up the
a surfer called Harvey who drank vodka, orange juice
recipe and story for the Seelbach Cocktail, named after
and Galliano did you?) to the modern trend of naming
The Seelbach Hotel – today The Seelbach Hilton.
the stills used to distill a spirit, brands and marketing
Working for the venerable Kentucky stalwart in 1995 he was annoyed to find it had no signature cocktail and
departments have perpetuated stories that benefit them, whilst creating new tales for newer brands.
so invented one, then claiming he had found the recipe
Yet despite the half-truths and barefaced lies, the
in old records. He subsequently concocted an elaborate
art and pleasure of storytelling is part and parcel of
origin story involving a couple from New Orleans who
the allure of drinks and an important element for
had supposedly honeymooned at the hotel in 1912. The
drinkers and those that serve them. From the ancient
man ordered a Manhattan, the woman a champagne
to the modern, a lesson taught to me by one of my first
cocktail. The ungainly bartender spilt the bubbly into
mentors still rings true: a good drink is a good drink
the Manhattan, set the result of his mistake aside, and
but a great drink is a good drink with a good story. Now
made the drinks anew. But it got the barman thinking
who the hell was Cecil Baker?
The Bold and the Beautiful Words: Holly Motion
While the spirit is what will end up in the glass, when it comes to the fiercely competitive hotel back bar, it is often the bottle that reigns.
I
f a bar is a stage, then the bottles are the props and the bartender the narrator. He or she can weave in the history, provenance and story of a product. Some have hundreds to draw upon, others slightly less so. In a hotel, the bar back is often the focal point. Guests can cast their eyes
from left to right and see bottles of different shapes, colours and styles. Some will be recongisable, others alien. Many will opt for something familiar, but some will ask about a spirit that stands apart from the rest – a totem of glass more eye-catching than the others. That’s the brand (and design agency’s) work done, now it’s up to the bartender to draw the consumer in and weave a tale that matches the bottle. “Every high-end bar must balance their own story with the stories of the products they serve,” London-based brand strategist Yael Weisberg
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says. “The back bar often acts as the shop
Miller says it comes down to two things:
fictional. “It’s about observing the truths behind
window, enticing customers to ‘trade up’ and
standout and attraction. “You want people
the brand: the people, provenance, heritage,
treat themselves. If a product is incongruous
firstly to notice it, and then you want them
process and their ethos, then singling out the
with the bar’s identity, it creates a dissonance
to want it,” he says. “In many ways it’s not
most unique thing about what that brand is and
that is often read as an unidentifiable
dissimilar to poster design, firstly you need to
bringing that story to life, in an appealing way
awkwardness by customers.”
catch someone’s attention, but then it needs
that connects to its consumers.”
Luxury hotel bars, she says, have an even more delicate task at hand, with multiple layers of storytelling, identity and customer
to intrigue them enough to come in closer and explore the details.” It sounds easy enough, but there is a long list
important, but it has to be genuine.” Creative
experience in play. “The bar may or may
of brands that have failed to strike the balance
Directors Matthew Bolger (M) and Emelie
not have its own identity, separate from the
and that stand out for all the wrong reasons.
Lidström (E) were tasked with creating
hotel itself, and the clientele is more likely to
As consumers become more interested in the
a range of experimental super premium
be international. Whether it is a small batch
backstory and origin of a product, and drink
whiskies inspired by the masters and
start-up or a mega-brand, successful brands
less but better, it is more important than ever
apprentices working side by side at the new
are those that manage to stand out whilst also
they know they are spending money on more
Irish Distillers Midleton micro distillery. The
fitting in - elaborating on universal visual
than just a pretty bottle.
brand name derives from the Shakespeare
cues that communicate craft or luxury - which
passage: “Though this be madness, yet there
allows their brand stories to be more easily
Unique story
is method in ’t”, and the bottle design plays
understood on a visual level by a wider range
Beyond that, in an ever-more crowded
on juxtaposition.
of guests.”
marketplace of quality spirits, the brand story
When it comes to contemporary bottle
Lidström says there were plenty of
can be the difference between success and
interesting details behind the brand for her
design, few have more accolades or accounts
failure. “There are so many brands out there
and Bolger to go on. “If there is nothing to
than design agency Stranger & Stranger. From
now, and more and more being released every
say you can’t create convincing design,” she
containers for Boukman Rhum to Martini, Jack
month,” Miller says. “So, without a unique
says. “With Method and Madness the master
Daniels to The Kraken Rum, the often times
story, point of view and personality, it’s near
and the apprentice collaboration, and the
gothic, distinctive bottles and intricate labels
impossible to gain cut-through.”
experimental process in the distillery, is very
tell a story from a distance. In his own words, Design Director Rowan
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For M&E, creators of Irish Distillers’ Method and Madness, storytelling is “hugely
Although it does happen, Miller says it is rare that ‘storytelling’ is about making up something
inspiring and gave us so much material for the design of the bottle.”
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The pair might have had a lot to draw from
and focused. “From the soft shoulder and base
something that a bartender is proud to
but they still had to create an entirely new
curves of the bottle to the clean illustrations,
recommend. “We also wanted tangible glass
proposition for an exceedingly established
the ambition was for Seedlip’s labels to be
details to feature in the bottle so it’s nice to
company. “Irish Distillers wanted the design
memorable and desirable.”
hold and pour from,” Bolger says. “It needed
of this new brand to be a departure from traditional Irish whiskey bottle design.” A big ask, but Lidström says it allowed the
neck length and with a closure that you feel
Back bars are busy and competitive arenas for
excited to open every time.”
pair to have a great deal of freedom in the
brands and the hotel bar is often more limited
Ultimately, if the bottle isn’t functional,
creative process. “We wanted to push the
on space, so getting in is a job in itself. Making
then you’ll have a harder task of getting the
boundaries of whiskey design, while retaining
sure a bartender is a convert is nothing short of
bartender on side. “Functionality is extremely
a sense of respect and appreciation of its
a necessity.
important,” Miller says. “Things we often
heritage and craft,” she adds. Seedlip, the world’s ‘first non-alcoholic
“Back bars are prime real estate for brands,”
consider are: where will the bottle will be
Seedlip’s Branson says. “Therefore, considering
placed in the bar? Will the bottle need to fit in a
spirit’ had an entirely different creative: to
the standout both on the shelf and then in the
speed rail? Does it pour smoothly and does the
introduce a new category and, with it, a very
hand of a bartender are key considerations.”
bottle fit well in the bartender’s hand?
different story to tell. Founder Ben Branson
Depending on the bar, the task can be made
“For example, for a bottle that the bartender
says he considered every element of the bottle
that much harder. Branson continues: “Bars are
will likely use as a core mixing spirit, we will
and label when creating the brand; from the
often dark and bartenders are busy, so making
have to consider the diameter of the bottle so it
cap to the quality of glass, the paper stock to
the bottle easy to open, to pour and to pick -
fits in the speed rail, and also the length of the
visibility on a dark back bar, as well as feel in
either from the well or the shelf - do all add up
neck so it is easier for them to constantly grab
the hand. “On a busy shelf in a bar, having the
to making bottles easy to use again and again.”
and quickly pour.”
immediacy of standout design is key and can
Stranger & Stranger’s Miller picks up the
It’s no longer enough to just look good,
be the single most powerful piece of marketing
point: “Bartenders are very influential people
you now have to be good, do good and
a start-up brand like ours has.”
when it comes to recommending spirits, and
tell a cracking story. That’s after you’ve
Branson says it was important to him that
having them fall in love with a bottle will
managed to convince the increasingly
Seedlip labels championed the ingredients and
inevitably filter down to the consumer.”
educated, international consumer to ask
told the first distilled non-alcoholic spirit’s story. He wanted the design to be simple, clear
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to be the right size for the hand to grip, a nice Back bars
When it came to designing Method and Madness, M&E say they wanted to design
after your product in the most crowded prop department of all.
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Memoir of a Maison Few regions sparkle in the minds of wine drinkers quite like Champagne, but what role does history and provenance play in France’s fizzing export and why is uncorking a corking past important for hotel bartenders?
Words: Nina Caplan
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T
he Spanish King had many titles but Henry IV cared
through a Champagne cellar could be rather like setting off
only for two. His response to the sonorous list with
fireworks in an enclosed space and, until the 18th century,
which Spain’s Ambassador introduced his master
visitors were advised to wear iron masks to protect their
was simple: “I am the Sire of Aÿ and Gonesse”. This
faces from exploding bottles.
was understating the case – he was also King of France and
Still, Champagne holds two winning cards. The first is
Navarre. But Gonesse was renowned for the finest wheat
that the product itself can be wonderful: carefully blended
and Aÿ for the best grapes, and so what he was really saying
and, allowed that vital second fermentation, those damply
was, “I am the ruler of good bread and wine.” Or so at least
acidic grapes bloom into euphoria. Their flavours range
the story goes.
from citrus to toast, the bubbles from elegant thin streams
This is not by any means the first such statement to
to brash plumpness. The wines work, almost without
cling to Champagne but it may, in its clear designation of
exception, with food. The second card may be even more
the region’s wine as the finest in the kingdom, be the most
crucial, and that is the power of story.
loved. After all, Champagne is arguably the earliest, and still
In 496, Clovis, first king of all the Franks, was baptised at
the best, example of the power of story to lift a marketable
Reims. The occasion was celebrated, naturally enough, with
commodity far above its rivals.
the local wine. And so what would become the two most
On the face of it, France’s most northern wine region is
powerful institutions in the Western world – royalty and
not a promising location for the drink that would come to
Christianity – made Champagne their drink of choice and,
be indelibly associated with celebration – one for which
for over 1200 years, France’s kings would be crowned in
even habitual consumers of cheap plonk will happily spend
the region’s chief city. The divine right of France’s kings to
big bucks when the happy occasion demands. The vineyards
rule was toasted in the thin, pinkish local wine. And it was,
of Champagne are flat, frequently wet and rather too close
appropriately enough, the combined forces of monarchy
to England, the land that, until recently, gourmandise
and Christianity that turned that glamorous beverage into a
supposedly forgot. The grapes don’t invariably ripen fully
wine truly fit for princes and popes.
and the chilly northern temperatures tend to shut down
Charles II of England, newly restored to his throne in
the yeast before it has finished its job, with the result that
1649, brought Champagne back from his French exile and
a secondary fermentation can occur in the bottle when that
made it popular with the thirstiest nation on the planet; for
yeast reawakens in spring.
him and for his courtiers, the tendency for half a case to
In an era before sturdy glass manufacture, walking
explode was collateral damage, and may even have added to
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The product itself can be wonderful: carefully blended and, allowed that vital second fermentation, those damply acidic grapes bloom into euphoria.
the excitement of the wine’s arrival. Certainly, it made it rather more expensive, as did the method. It was, famously, the monk Dom Pérignon who perfected the art of blending different parcels to enhance one fine wine, and who also made those irrepressible bubbles an asset rather than a fault. These twin glories – glamour and expense – ensured Champagne’s success. Even now, few if any sparkling wines can compete with Champagne for cachet. A proposal, a wedding, an anniversary or even the closing of an important deal all require Champagne. Napoleon famously adored it. His nemesis, the Russians, tried it as the Napoleonic Wars were ending and became hooked. At Maison Louis Roederer in Reims, there is a chart tracking sales in Russia in the second half of the 19th century, when the house was so beloved of the Tsars that Alexander II commissioned an entirely new cuvée, in a clear bottle to foil assassination attempts: Cristal. In the 1870s, according to Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, Roederer Executive Vice-President and Chief Winemaker, Champagne was known in Russia, simply, as Roederer. When I was researching my book on wine and its stories, The Wandering Vine (to be published by Bloomsbury in March 2018), I visited almost a dozen Champagne houses and every one of them had a narrative they nurtured like a promising child and passed on to retailers and bartenders to help differentiate their product. Möet & Chandon owns the chapel where Dom Pérignon is buried, and created the Champagne brand named for him; it has chosen to accessorise this hallowed history with funky, modern collaborations with the likes of Jeff Koons, David Lynch and Björk, perhaps to remind drinkers that Champagne itself was a funky new product in Dom Pérignon’s time. Taittinger, a large player (or grande marque) that is still familyowned, also blends old and young as carefully as it blends different parcels of grapes: it has chosen to name its Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne after the powerful medieval rulers of the region, and the old-fashioned pot-bellied bottle accentuates this link with the past, as does its emphasis on ageing the wine for a decade in cellars that once belonged to the medieval Abbey of Saint-Nicaise. Here, once again, is Champagne’s profitable link between the rulers and the Church. However, Taittinger’s collection of specially designed bottles, by artists including Roy Lichtenstein and Robert Rauschenberg, is as startlingly contemporary as anyone could wish for, and the daughter of the house, Vitalie Taittinger, is not just the company’s artistic director but the face of its marketing and publicity. “I love to tell the story of Veuve Clicquot when selling champagne,” says Samuel Chazen, Food and Beverage Manager at
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“All consumers, whether amateurs or connoisseurs, are looking for authenticity and for a sense of origin”
The Plaza Hotel in New York, which has a renowned Champagne bar. He will tell drinkers about Madame Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin, the 19th-century veuve (widow) Clicquot herself, whose invention of bold marketing strategies and clever production techniques made the house “the huge international presence that it is today. We love to share this experience with our guests, as Madame Clicquot was a pioneer in a largely male-dominated industry.” Smaller producers tend to emphasise the homegrown, family nature of their product, and the many generations of careful husbandry that have put them where they are today – and these, too, are stories that a canny bartender can use, particularly as these brands will be less familiar to their clientele than the grandes marques. Champagne Pierre Peters has a wonderful photo of the house’s namesake, grandfather of the current incumbent, serving his product to potential buyers at a wine fair. It is 1932 and Pierre is 12 years old. Eric Rodez is the ninth generation to make Champagne Rodez in Ambonnay, but prefers to lay the emphasis on the future: his son works with him, and his passionate adherence to biodynamism, a form of natural winemaking that follows the cycles of the moon, is a way of turning his back on the pesticide-heavy methods of the recent past. What value do these stories hold for potential customers? “All consumers, whether amateurs or connoisseurs, are looking for authenticity and for a sense of origin,” says Bertrand Verduzier, Export Director of Gosset Champagne. It would be hard, he points out, to claim to be an artisanal maker of a truly ‘craft’ product without a distinguished heritage. History, technique and style all come together in a Champagne’s brand story - this is how the consumer distinguishes those worth coveting. Gosset itself, as the oldest winery in Champagne – it was founded in Aÿ in 1584, five years before Henry IV ascended to France’s throne – is in a strong position in this regard, and accentuates that through an 18th-century bottle and an emphasis, in the winery and in its marketing, on the importance of terroir, “to express minerality, purity and depth in the wines,” as Verduzier puts it. This, the house can reasonably say, has been the focus for over 400 years – although those wines would not, before Dom Pérignon, have fizzed, and Gosset is careful to distinguish itself from Ruinart, founded in 1729, which holds the claim to being the oldest Champagne house. Even a great story, it seems, must be distinguished from another great story, and in Champagne, where narratives seem to cluster like grapes on a vine, it is finding the right one that makes all the difference.
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GLOBAL DRINKS FORUM 2017 „The Professional Conference for the Future of the Drinks Business“ Future Trends, Brand Creation and Development, Digital Marketing, Global Distribution and Sustainability Global Drinks Forum offers a wide range of seminars and presentations, which have been cra ed to address the key issues and interests of our attendees – the drinks industry. SPEAKERS INCLUDE Mark Meek, CEO, The IWSR Nick Blacknell, Global Marketing Director, Havana Club Ivan Bell, Group Managing Director & Greg Dillon, Brand Strategy, Stranger & Stranger Adrian D. Parker, Vice President, Marketing, Patrón Spirits Company Iain Griffiths & Kelsey Ramage, Trash Tiki Jacob Briars, Bacardi – Chairman, Global Drinks Forum 2017 FULL SPEAKER PROGRAMME TO BE ANNOUNCED SOON www.globaldrinksforum.com
Organised by:
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Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto
A social event, tradition and cuisine experience rolled into one, aperitivo culture is a daily staple of Italian life which has made its way into global F&B culture. Best enjoyed in the evening sunlight, it is the custom of pairing spirits with snacks, pre-dinner, and works to take the edge off a long, hard day and prepare the body for a larger evening meal. Associated mostly with Turin, the history of aperitivo culture has been traced back to 1786 and the infusion of Moscato white wine with herbs and spices, considered a perfect opening act for the heartier helping to come. Spreading throughout southern Italy, and then to Rome, Florence and Milan, it has become a favourite for tourists and locals alike. “As the etymology of the word teaches us, aperitivo means ‘to open’” explains, Giuseppe Gallo, Director of Italspirits. “And this is what it means to me: a social moment to spend with friends and family, a drink to be enjoyed before dinner, to stimulate the appetite, during one of the most popular Italian traditions.” Drawing inspiration from aperitivo culture, Italspirits’ Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto is a liqueur mixed to celebrate the ritual, and features a fresh, floral and aromatic citrus flavour. Channelling the largely forgotten Rosolio spirit, every detail down to the design of the bottle has been created to embody the best of Italy. Based upon the famous Rosolio family recipe, it is mixed using 100% Italian fruits, herbs and spices, and brewed at a historic distillery dating back to 1906. Featuring a mixture of bergamot from Calabria; cedro from Sicilia; Roman camomile from Tuscany;
and lavender, gentian, yellow roses and Melissa balm from Piemonte, flavours combine to generate the casual ambience of an aperitivo drink through authentic Italian culture and history. “I find that Italicus works particularly well with white spirits and sparkling wines such as Champagne or Prosecco, or mixers such as tonic, in which the bubbles enhance the delicate bergamot essential oils,” Gallo says. “It has a unique flavour profile and signals the rebirth of a forgotten category.” To mark the drink ’s launch, Italspirits partnered with Sanderson Hotel, London, for a series of aperitivo evenings on its alfresco terrace. Serving up a menu of light bites and snacks alongside Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto cocktails including The Italicus Spritz – a floral, Mediterranean take on the traditional G&T – and the Berners & Co, which combines Belvedere Vodka and London Essence Grapefruit & Rosemary Tonic, the series introduced guests to the resurgent ritual and ushered in the lighter evenings with typical Italian style. “People today, as it has always been, drink together, as a sharing experience,” Gallo concludes. “The difference from a few years ago is that people have developed a more complex and personal taste, making them very interesting guests for creative bartenders. With Italicus we provide full, transparent information about our distillery, partners and recipe to make our brand relevant to modern consumers’ needs.” www.rosolioitalicus.com
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Tonic Syrup Bon Vivant
Created in collaboration with Giuseppe Gallo, Bon Vivant Tonic Syrup allows bartenders to experiment with the fundamental flavour of tonic water. Inspired by the original formula of the Dutch West India Company, it can be used as a base for homemade tonic waters or added to cocktails for an elegant bitterness. Made using natural quinine from cinchona bark sourced from the Congo, and lemons from California and Argentina, the citrus oils provide a crisp flavour profile while the quinine rounds off the syrup with a bitter finish. Transparent with a light golden hue, it is less sweet than pre-made tonic waters and the natural flavourings allow the taste of the spirit it is paired with to excel. Working particularly well with gins that have a strong juniper note, the amount can also be adjusted to accommodate and enhance spirits including amaro, vermouth and Italicus. As a cocktail ingredient it can be used in sour classics such as an Aviation, or instead of sugar in a White lady. Giuseppe Gallo, Director of Italspirits, comments: “We are very excited to be launching Bon Vivant Tonic Syrup to the on-trade, especially at a time when we have seen a trend for lowerABV cocktails gain traction, as well as a more considered approach to alcoholfree offerings. We have designed Bon Vivant Tonic Syrup in the hope that bartenders will be able to offer a more unique, authentic tonic water option, as well as opening up new flavour profile opportunities in mixed drinks.�
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Blond
Virtuous Vodka Virtuous by name, Virtuous Vodka’s 100% organic spirit is made using a base spirit of Swedish rye with no added sugars or aromas for a natural, genuine taste. Suitable for mixing in long drinks and cocktails, Virtuous Vodka Blond is column distilled once and unfiltered for a smooth and balanced result. Available in 700ml bottles, it offers a sweet, peppery scent reminiscent of freshly baked bread and light notes of fruit. With a fresh, sweet bitterness and a touch of spice, the blond mix features a short and delicate aftertaste. Three additional flavour options – raspberry, bitter lemon and ginger – are again created using only highquality natural ingredients, meaning they have a defined shelf life. Raspberry matures with time for a complex flavour with less acidity, whilst lemon jux taposes sweet undertones with zest from the peel, and ginger carries a warm kick. “As a company we believe in three things: true flavours, sustainable business and braveness, and that’s how we produce our vodkas,” explains founder Claes Stenmark. “We’re excited to have launched at a time when venues and customers alike are looking for something authentic and honest, something we always strive to be. We only say yes to the real deal and no to stuff created in laboratories. Most importantly our vodka is made to taste, not to last.” www.virtuousspirits.com
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“Art can inspire, relax, arouse curiosity and leave guests smiling.� Sandra De Souza, Art Consultant at Wilson Associates, discusses the importance of decorative elements.
JW, NM
HM, RP, TN
CG
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Supper at Rüya 9th April 2017 Dubai
The Hosts
The Venue
The Theme
Supper, in partnership with Conran and
Rüya at Grosvenor House Hotel, Dubai.
Novel Ideas
Partners, and d.ream.
The Guests
The Menu
Alejandro Helbling
Naim Maadad
Starters
Vice President Group services / MD Venu
CEO
Home made Pastirma – cured beef, baby pickled
Hotels, Jumeirah Group
Gates Hospitality
vegetables, sour dough
Amy Wright
Robert Polacek
and shaved radish
Brand Director
Chief Creative Officer
Borek – Filo wrapped feta cheese with carrots,
Supper
Puccini Group
zucchini and walnuts
Christian Gradnitzer
Sergio Lopez
Senior Director of F&B Operations, EMEA,
Co-founder and Managing Director
Hilton Worldwide
Bull & Roo
Claudia Nemes Shetty
Tim Stanhope
cooked egg and shaved truffle
Operations Manager
Corporate Director of F&B
Sujuk duram – Traditional homemade beef
Rüya
Emaar Hospitality Group
sausage, compressed cucumber, spring onion
David Singleton
Tina Norden
Vice President, Hospitality
Director
Mains
Al Tayer Group
Conran and Partners
Whole grilled sea bream – with Anatolian spiced
Harry McKinley
Umut Ozkanca
Keskek – barley risotto with pulled lamb and
Editor
Partner
spices
Supper
Rüya
Rangers valley grain fed rib eye – Turkish coffee,
Jean Luc Fourrier
James Wierzelewski
Bosphorus seafood güveç – with tomato and
Senior Director, Asset Management
Corporate Vice President Food and
fennel pilav
Majid Al Futtaim Properties
Beverage Operations, Rotana Hotel
Levrek – seabass sashimi with mustard, apple
Kuymak – Soft polenta with Turkish cheeses, wild mushrooms & truffle butter Mids Two cheese pide from The Black Sea – with slow
& chili
rub, lemon dressing and havuc salatasi
isot rub and crispy Zaatar potatoes
Management
Desserts Stanboul – white chocolate & yogurt cream, lemon lokum, strawberry & basil sorbet Firin sütlaç – traditional Anatolian rice pudding, raspberries and rose ice cream
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The Chat
Tina Norden: Conran and Partners are total
No one wants to queue up with 600 people at a
HM: Is it more important, therefore, to deliver
newbies to the Middle East. This is the first
buffet to have breakfast anymore. So we’ve taken
creativity or is it more important to deliver
restaurant in the region for us. Umut Özkanca
that element away and created an experience.
consistency?
and I had been talking about somewhere
We don’t just do the hotel restaurant, we do
that would showcase Anatolian cuisine in a
something that fits every occasion.
contemporary way. Rüya is developed for the
Alejando Helbling: You have to be very different. You cannot be everything to everyone. We also
international market. We’re not planning to open
SL: I believe you need to specialise in what you
have to be much more freestanding in our
one in Instanbul. It’s meant to be an Anatolian
are good at. If you’re a hotelier, you’re good at
approach to service. But I don’t think that an
concept for the rest of the world.
hotels. But if you’re a restaurateur that’s what
F&B director can have their heart in five different
you do.
restaurants in a hotel. Hotels have the capability,
Harry Mckinley: A restaurant concept born in
but we have to have the passion.
Dubai is a rare thing, so does this region need to
TS: But it’s not that hotels can’t run restaurants.
do more to encourage original ideas?
There are limitations on what you can do in a
Jean Luc Fourrier: Can hotels lead F&B again?
hotel.
Yes, they can. But hotels need to change the
Sergio Lopez: When we did Tom & Serg four
culture and think more about partnerships and
years ago, there was really nothing like it. It was
Naim Maadad: I think what we’re missing is
a risk, but if you don’t take risks you will always
authenticity. There’s so much copying but we
be average. Does this region need more? I don’t
want uniqueness. People are coming to cities
NM: F&B will not change until the morning
think it needs more, I think it needs better. You
like Dubai, going to ‘lifestyles’ and eating while
meetings are changed. Nobody talks about food
want quality of food, quality of design, quality of
they’re there. I want to change that and for
and beverage.
people and you also want quality of price.
people to go to eat, and then enjoy a lifestyle. Food has to be the hero.
HM: Hotels are sometimes a bit risk averse.
collaboration.
HM: It also often feels that we’re bogged down in the notion of picture perfect design above all
It’s easier to do something tried and tested,
David Singleton: You simply cannot copy DNA.
else. Is too much emphasis put on style and not
especially when there are important deliverables
Provenance, integrity and originality are crucial.
enough on substance?
need to be considered. Should hotels be taking
NM: And what works in London, for example,
Robert Polacek: I think the difficulty is, in the
more risks in their F&B concepts?
doesn’t work here. In the last six months we’ve
region, they’ve built all of these buildings and
seen seven brands that have come out of London
brought in as many chains as possible and now
close.
people are grasping for authenticity. There are
like all-day-dining and a great breakfast that
James Wierzelewski: I don’t know if it’s about risk. It takes a lot of research and it takes a lot
people that have lived here now for a long time
of planning and strategy. On the hotel side, you
TN: Do you think that’s because people assume
have owners that want something, but you have
that if something works somewhere elsewhere
to translate that into, is it right for the footprint?
they can plonk it here, exactly as it is?
Is it right for the demographics of the hotel? How
and they’ve grown tired of Western chains. HM: So where are the truly homegrown concepts? Why does it seem that no one is developing a
people are eating and the experience is changing
NM: People don’t want to take the time to digest
in urban environments.
what the market needs.
Tim Stanhope: I think what we’ve tried to do at
DS: Brand principles will often not let you
cusine and surround it with a stylish, modern
Emaar is create experiences. The typical hotel
change a concept.
concept and it’s a very appealing proposition.
concept that reflects the region’s identity? JLF: It’s all about how it’s packaged. Take a local
model is all-day-dining and maybe a signature
It’s a bit like Rüya, taking Turkish cuisine and
restaurant. But we’ve figured out that it’s
Christian Gradnitzer: Brands are not built
packaging it in a way that makes people think
probably better to leave the signature restaurant
within six weeks. So people need to ask, what is
again.
to an independent. What we’ve done at Address
the soul of an F&B brand? We’re in the business
Boulevard is create an all-day dining concept.
of people after all.
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Global Restaurant Investment Forum 10th – 12th April 2017 Dubai
Breaking The Mould The host city, Dubai, provides the perfect setting for an event of this kind, with a considerable breadth of food and beverage offerings across an ever-growing market; retail restaurant concepts are licensed or franchised from all over the world, while many homegrown concepts have managed to crack through and gain traction in recent years. Hotel food and beverage plays a central role on city’s dining scene, with hotels among the few venues able to serve alcohol due
Global trends, the latest innovation and viewpoints of both restaurant operators and investors made for an action packed threeday event at the Global Restaurant Investment Forum 2017 at Fairmont The Palm Dubai.
to the UAE’s complex licencing laws. This monopoly-like position in the market results in a flourishing hotel F&B industry and a much wider range of innovation than is arguably seen in other major cities around the world. A network of restaurant ownership and operating deals has emerged, not dissimilar to that seen in hotels – with the asset, operation and brand being separated. Companies presenting were developing joint ventures with hotels, licensing their concepts and sometimes operating as well as just providing concept development
Words: James Hacon
services. Sometimes these deals were with the flag, other times with the asset owner. In addition, the region is also seeing leasehold opportunities and the roll out of concepts developed by the global hotel brands also.
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Global Perspective Attended by hundreds of food and beverage professionals from tens of countries around the world, the diversity of attendee leant considerable scope to the dialogue on opportunities and issues affecting the restaurant industry – not least due to the differing developments of economies being traded in. But clear global trends and ‘take aways’ did emerge:
• Delivery Dilemma
• Crazy Levels of Competition
Undoubtedly the biggest consumer trend affecting
As discussed by Supper Editor Harry McKinley on the
our industry, the issue of delivery and the
Demystifying Restaurant Development panel, there
proliferation of services such as Deliveroo and
are very few markets where the competition in the
UberEATs raises significant debate. For a retail
bar and restaurant space isn’t fierce. Brand and site
restaurant operator, it gives an opportunity to gain
growth is explosive across most of North America,
incremental revenue in addition to their general
Europe and the Middle East. Expect a five year
operation. For a hotel food operator, the same
return on investment, not the three many brands
opportunity exists if close to residential areas, but
have come to expect, and make sure you cut through
alongside this is the increased competition against
the noise by building a multi-faceted lifestyle brand
in-house restaurants and the room service division.
to drive greater awareness and loyalty. Expect to be
If partnering with a major player be mindful of
further squeezed on your share of the F&B dollar in
exclusivity clauses, many operators are now trading
your hotel guest’s pocket, and drive standards to
with multiple delivery companies, albeit at higher
encourage non-residents through the door.
rates of commission.
Robert Polacek, Chief Creative Officer, Puccini Group; Naim Maadad, Chief Executive, Gates Hospitality; Toufıc Akl, Partner, Operations, Hodema Consulting Services; Dr Nnaeto Orazulike, Founder & Group Managing Director, Genesis Group Nigeria; Harry McKinley, Editor, Supper
• Know When to Walk Away
• Instabragging Rights
When launching multiple F&B venues, it’s almost
With even the French fine dining establishments
inevitable there will be failures from time to time.
allowing photography at the table now, the
Closing a site is the hardest decision to make, but
floodgates are very much open. Customers are no
it must be made, and quickly, for the sake of the
longer just keyboard critics, they’re photographers
overall business and brand. Hotels benefit from
too. Make sure your proposition stands-out from
scale and the lack of a need to invest in standalone
the crowd, but don’t over complicate things. When
F&B space, with owners, operators and investors
posting your own content, share a story, not just
preferring to make a commercial decision above a
another food photo. It was the consensus that,
sentimental one.
where possible, hotels should have different social accounts and marketing team members looking
• Poles Apart
after food and beverage outlets, as they represent
When it comes to the latest food trends, it’s a mixed
a very different proposition from the hotel at large.
bag; sweet and decadent is in - but so is healthy and sugar-free. It’s all about the occasion. Plant-bias continues to rise, with veganism and vegetarianism becoming increasingly popular, as well as chefs experimenting more with creative vegetable dishes.
Perhaps the greatest piece of advice for hotels came from Amir Nahai, the CEO for global F&B at Accor Hotels, who revealed that a key part of the company’s strategy was to look at secular trends, rather than cyclical ones. Given the breadth of customers and the generalist nature of most mainstream hotel brands, this seems particularly wise. James Hacon is a brand, development and growth strategist currently working as Director of Thai Leisure Group, alongside other select investors and operators. www.restaurant-invest.com
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Image1: Harry McKinley, Editor, Supper; Robbie Bargh, Founder and Director, Gorgeous Group; Martin Jones, VP of F&B, Europe, Luxury Brands, AccorHotels Image2: Adam Tihany Images: Richard Pereira
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To The Table Europe 25th – 27th April 2017 Lisbon
H
aving established itself a leading international forum
don’t want to walk into a place that screams elegance and get
for restaurant and bar decision makers, To The Table
served a grilled cheese sandwich.”
hosted its first dedicated European event at The Ritz-
Tackling trends and innovation in restaurant development,
Carlton Penha Longa, Portugal, in April 2017.
Amir Nahai, CEO Global F&B for AccorHotels, engaged
Gathering senior buyers and top-tier suppliers from
attendees by explaining that “awesome is everywhere”, and
the region, the forum was built around a combination of a
that it is important for hotel groups to compete with the
tightly managed one-to-one meeting programme, a series of
ingenuity and ability to react displayed on the high street. “But
networking events and a seminar series featuring influential
we don’t seek to be trendy, we seek to be essential,” he said.
figures from the F&B sector.
On the subject of creating and retaining a unique
In attendance were buyers from global hotel groups such as
restaurant brand, Robbie Bargh, Founder and Director of
Hilton Worldwide, Marriott International, Hyatt Worldwide
Gorgeous Group, explained that, “a restaurant’s story must
and AccorHotels; with the likes of Pernod Ricard, Robert Welch
be imbedded in its DNA.” Whilst Martin Jones, VP of F&B,
Designs and Studio William showcasing recent collections.
Europe for Luxury Brands at AccorHotels - also on the panel -
“To The Table Europe is a well organised networking event
explained that developing brands that have something to say
with high calibre hotel group F&B and procurement decision
to their respective markets is, “more important than global
makers, with whom you can meet efficiently in one place to
brand standards.”
develop meaningful business relationships,” says Chris Ward, EMEA Hotel Business Director for Arc France.
“Overall, To The Table is very beneficial for making new supply chain connections as well as seeing what is new from
Chaired by Supper Editor Harry McKinley, seminars delved
existing vendors,” says Ciaran Hickey, Director of Culinary,
into the pressing issues facing the industry and offered insight
EMEA, Hilton Worldwide. “The seminars at To The Table
into how organisations can adapt or strengthen their practices
Europe were hugely enjoyable and I left with some great
in an increasingly evolving market.
insights from senior leaders. As a networking opportunity it
Preeminent hospitality designer Adam Tihany, of Tihany
was also invaluable.”
Design, charted his experiences as a pioneer of the industry, exploring some of the key projects of his decades long career
To The Table MEA will run from 14th -16th November 2017 at
and sharing his most important lessons.
Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah, Al Bandar Hotel, Muscat.
“I’m a portrait artist. I create a portrait of my client. It’s my point of view, but it’s still a portrait. For a hotel chef, it’s
To The Table Europe 2018 will run from 16th – 18th April at
important that when they walk into their space, they feel it’s
Corinthia Grand Hotel, Budapest.
like a custom suit. Then from the guest side, the space should be level with the expectation of what they’re going to get. You
www.tothetableeurope.com
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SIDES
P(OUR) 5th – 6th April Paris
“L
ack of inclusiveness is deeply rooted in the drinks industry,”
feminine shape,” she vexed. “The gender pay gap in this industry is
says Alex Kratena, “but if you want to go fast, go alone. If you
the biggest of all sectors after IT, and women are often invited to the
want to go far, go together.”
party, but not to dance.”
These were the opening words of the P(OUR) symposium,
This year speakers also included Sula Richardson and Clara Rubin -
which this year centred on the theme of gender, and explored how
of Women in Wine LDN - who posed the question, is wine gendered?
the industry can expand equality and embrace change.
Roger Antonsen, Associate Professor of Computer Science at the
The second year for the symposium, it was held in partnership with
University of Oslo and Visiting Scholar at UC Berkeley, California,
Cocktails Spirits Paris, which in 2017 celebrated its 10th year and its last
challenged the audience to see the world differently and explained
as Maison Rouge - its home for the past decade. In 2018 the event will
how mathematics and philosophy can intersect when it comes to
be moving to a bigger venue, capable of hosting a growing audience.
creative thinking.
Now a registered charity in the UK, P(OUR) was established in
On day two of proceedings, Audra Mulkern, among others, took to
2016 by Alex Kratena, Ryan Chetiyawardana, Jim Meehan, Simone
the stage. Founder of The Female Farmer Project, she works to shine
Caporale, Monica Berg, Joerg Meyer and Xavier Padovani.
a spotlight on the hard-working people growing a food system that is
For the drinks and bartending community, its goal is the exploration
sustainable and equitable for all; while Amanda Kludt, editor-in-chief
of new ideas, the sharing of information and the exchange of inspiration.
of Eater, discussed the issue of motherhood in the beverage industry.
Food journalist, trends hunter, lecturer and curator, Maria
Closing the seminars for 2017, trans activist Jeanette John Solstad
Canabal opened the symposium. In 2015 she was billed one of the
Remø had a decisive message: respect diversity.
most influential women in gastronomy and is the president of Parabere Forum; an annual event that gathers thought leaders in
P(OUR) depends solely on the generosity and support of the industry, giving
the field of food.
back to the community and ensuring that its content and message are free
In her rousing presentation Canabal discussed the continuing
and available for all.
disparity in how men and women are viewed in the professional sphere. “We are wired to see talent differently when it comes in a
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www.pourdrink.org/donate/
SIDES
Global Drinks Forum 9th October 2017 Berlin
O
ffering a day of seminars and insightful industry discussion, the
Elsewhere, Mark Meek, CEO, IWSR, will present his take on a series of
Global Drinks Forum this year returns to Ellington Hotel Berlin.
global trends currently driving the industry, and with sustainability a
Created in 2016 to address the key issues and interests of its
prominent theme within this year’s programme, Griffiths and Ramage
drinks business attendees, in 2017 the conference will explore
will talk the audience through their positive environmental practices,
topics including future trends, brand creation and development, as well as
offering advice on how brands can generate a positive community impact.
global distribution and sustainability.
Welcoming distributors, operators, agencies, managers and tenders
Speakers confirmed for the event represent both the commercial and
alike, the forum aims to offer a truly international perspective. During
creative dimensions of the market, including Nick Blacknell, Global
the 2016 event, delegates participated in bespoke presentations including
Marketing Director, Havana Club; Ivan Bell, Group Managing Director,
Mintel’s ‘If health is the new religion, what next for the alcohol industry?’
Stranger & Stranger; Adrian D. Parker, Vice President, Marketing, Patrón
and Fever Tree’s ‘The onward march of everyday luxury.’
Spirits Company; and Iain Griffiths and Kelsey Ramage of Trash Tiki, the waste-free pop up concept. Blacknell will discuss working with unfashionable categories, exploring how to breathe life into new and old brands alike, whilst Bell and Greg
The 2017 conference is also a prelude to Bar Convent Berlin, the international bar and beverage trade show. Also organised by Reed Exhibions, it runs 10th to 11th of October at Station Berlin and, for the first time, will occupy all ten halls of the venue.
Dillon, Brand Strategy, Stranger & Stranger, are set to investigate the psychology of packaging design.
www.globaldrinksforum.com
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Host 20th - 24th October 2017 Milan
H
ost, taking place at Fiera Milano, will this year celebrate its 40th
continuing a 24-edition long collaboration that brings together producers,
edition while highlighting the latest trends and developments
distributors and manufacturers under one roof.
across the F&B industry.
Further, EXIHS (Excellent Italian Hospitality Services) will return to the
Supporting vertical specialisation in the hotel, restaurant and
event with a new concept space highlighting handmade Italian products
café sectors, and showcasing everything from service equipment to
at Arredo and Tavola, the event’s furniture macro. Set within a cube
furnishing and tableware, this year’s event is set to welcome 1,400 brands
incorporating stone, wood, steel, recycled waste and water, the space seeks to
and 150,000 visitors.
highlight key materials from Italy’s manufacturing past, present and future.
With hospitality professionals increasingly expected to provide
“This is a strong concept, a breakaway, which, for the first time in 40
hybridised spaces with a wide-ranging product offering, Host will this year
editions, will be bringing an artistic-design performance to Host, with
highlight the merging of previously disparate worlds and the importance
no further commercial motive,” explains Dante O. Benini, co-creator and
of adapting to change.
designer of the EXIHS space for the third consecutive year. “The aim is
Organised into three areas: food service equipment with bread, pizza
to help bring foreign visitors to Italy, and to Host in particular, allowing
and pasta; coffee and tea, with vending machines, bars, gelato and pastry;
them to learn more about the Italian culture that permeates our leading
and furniture and table accessories, confirmed exhibitors include Alessi,
role in the hospitality industry.”
Villeroy & Boch, Sambonet Paderno, Tognana, Zweisel Kristallglas,
Offering a vantage point from which to observe the most prevalent
Franke and Wmf Group, among others. The three major target markets
industry developments, as well as an international networking opportunity
for this edition are the US, Canada and the Middle East, with specific
with influential decision makers, Host continues to be one of the sector’s
activities and installations planned throughout the show to attract
key platforms for buyers and suppliers.
visitors representing these regions. Host 2017 will also welcome back Sic, the International Coffee Exhibition,
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www.host.fieramilano.it
EVENT CALENDAR
131
Tales of the Cocktail
Bar Convent Berlin
Int’l Wine and Spirits Fair
18th – 23rd July 2017
10th – 11th October 2017
9th - 11th November 2017
New Orleans
Berlin
Hong Kong
Sauce
41 Madison
To The Table MEA
11th September 2017
17th – 20th October 2017
14th – 16th November 2017
Tartu
New York
Muscat
The Hotel Show
Host
Sleep
18th – 20th September 2017
20th – 24th October 2017
22nd - 23rd November 2017
Dubai
Milan
London
Global Drinks Forum
HX
Ambiente
9th October 2017
12th – 14th November 2017
9th - 13th February 2018
Berlin
New York
Frankfurt
Weslodge Saloon, JW Marriott Marquis, Dubai, Navigate Design
xxx
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The Art of the Meal When it comes to the hotel F&B experience, ambience is key. It is why what is on the walls can be as important as what is on the plate.
Words: Kristofer Thomas
A
top a wing of The Beaumont, London, sits Antony Gormley’s Room, a towering sculpture that comments as much on the concept of inhabitation as it does the hotel’s visual identity. A colossal sculpture-cum-suite, Room,
in the words of Gormley, “contrasts a visible exterior of a body, formed from large rectangular masses, with an inner experience,” succinctly conveying the dual role that art plays in hotel design - one that combines striking form and vital function. Where once the art that hung from hotel walls was sourced enmasse from production lines churning out indiscriminate pieces, the practice has now transitioned into a highly curated and carefully considered one, working at once to define spaces in terms of design and aesthetics, whilst subconsciously communicating specific messages to guests. Such is the current demand for expert artistic curation that Stockholm’s newly opened At Six has appointed Sune Nordgren, former director of Norway’s National Museum of Art, to guide the flow of sculpture, image and installation throughout the property. Meanwhile, historic establishments such as Claridge’s have recruited dedicated resident artists to contribute unique, property-specific work to their collections. “Art can inspire, relax, arouse curiosity and leave guests smiling,” explains Sandra De Souza, Art Consultant at Wilson
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AC Hotel Minneapolis, Kalisher
Associates. Ken Lam, Principal at Navigate
architecture, and pushes the restaurant’s story
conventions - features an art programme that
Design, agrees, noting: “While lighting and
forward,” describes David Winton, President
incorporates immediately recognisable visual
materials help create a sense of ambience, the
of Kalisher, an art curation firm specialising
elements drawn from the surrounding city,
right selection of artwork fills the emotional
in hospitality projects. “Every successful
with canvas prints baring local landmarks, red
gaps that finishes cannot.”
restaurant has a story and our job is to tell that
neon accents and distinctive casino typography.
Grand lobby pieces now welcome guests with
story visually, through art. This is always true in
Elsewhere, the firm’s work within the South
ambitious fixtures and sculptures that define
luxury hotels where the hotel has one story and
Shore Harbour Resort in Texas sees a collection
the arrival experience, whilst guestrooms
the restaurant another.”
characterised by black and white photography of
house paintings that depict ideas related to the
Much like the font of the menu, the pattern
marina scenes alongside bespoke compass-style
of the carpet, or the silhouette of the glassware,
xxx clocks, reflecting the area’s fishing ties. Lastly,
Restaurants, however, are a different
art too can channel a restaurant’s identity
Renaissance Atlanta Airport Gateway Hotel
landscape. Here art must balance decorative
and values through visual means. For a space
and its Hickory & Hazel restaurant contains a
and narrative elements whilst remaining
serving up classic fare with no frills, figurative
programme guided by monochrome minimalism,
unobtrusive, so as not to detract from the overall
art - straightforward and realistic - could work
so as to condense the hotel’s wider Rottet Studio
dining experience. Further, with the medium
best, whereas a dining room that prides itself on
design scheme into accompanying artistic
being so inherently subjective, restaurant art
experimentation and molecular gastronomy may
details, as well as represent the no-nonsense
must also work to appeal to a wider spectrum
opt for something more abstract. Movement and
traditional southern fare the restaurant serves.
of guests, each with their own tastes and
era play a role too, corresponding with location,
“Within restaurants, we have limited space in
preferences, as opposed to the lone sleeper.
the legacy of the building and the audience the
which to make a huge impact,” Winton continues.
restaurant seeks to entice.
“We love that challenge and look at the spaces
property’s history and location.
In this context there are perhaps two prominent
134
roles of art within hotel restaurants: to enhance,
Three projects within the Kalisher portfolio
from every perspective. Restaurants, more than
complement or determine a design scheme,
highlight the parity between setting and the
any other space, are three-dimensional and
and to affect the guest emotionally whilst not
aesthetic approach that each destination
funnel every customer through some very small
drawing attention away from the menu.
requires. Four Points by Sheraton Las Vegas
and specific spaces. This means we can impress
“It’s all about creating that moment of joy that
East Flamingo, for example - a property
every guest with a visual story.”
complements the interior design and interior
targeted towards business travellers and small
However, far from simply complementing
Europe 2018 Supper ad.qxp_Layout 1 30/05/2017 20:56 Page 2
& 6 3 0 1 & â
16–18 April 2018 Corinthia Grand Hotel, Budapest
S
uppliers of restaurant/bar/banqueting equipment and menu items who do business with Europe’s group-level hotel and restaurant decision makers, find TO THE TABLE EUROPE to be the most productive and valuable event in the industry calendar. l Meet exclusively the most senior group-level heads of food & beverage for all European properties, in one 5-Star venue.
l Dedicated, pre-selected appointment schedule for each supplier, with your own private meetings and display area. l No stand build, no exhibition, just high-level 30-minute strategic meetings with Europe's top F&B industry leaders. l Three evenings of top class networking dinner functions, with fantastic F&B, to cement your new relationships. Efficient, targeted, and extremely cost effective!
www.tothetableforums.com For details on all TO THE TABLE events, please see:
Or contact Justin Wall: justin@tothetableforums.com
SIDES
existing schemes and visually representing a hotel’s values, target audience and character, restaurant art can also be curated to speak to guests on a more intimate level, contributing something intangible and emotion-driven to the dining experience. At London’s Claridge’s, artist David Downton has been the property’s resident artist since 2011, producing exclusive work linked to the hotel’s illustrious guests, who sit for sparse ink watercolour portraits, hung on the walls on completion. At The Fumoir cocktail bar – with its dark, confessional atmosphere and original Lalique glass Downton’s work both depicts and considers the space. “I wanted the drawings to be of the moment and at the same time evoke an era when glamour went with gravitas and the world looked better in black and white.” Likewise, a collection of exclusively British artwork within Flemings Mayfair’s Ormer Mayfair restaurant and the accompanying Manetta’s Bar speaks of the hotel’s quintessentially English roots. Providing artists such as Emma Haggas, Fi Katzler and Kate Boxer with a renowned, if unconventional, platform from which to exhibit, the collection was specifically created as part of a £15 million refurbishment project, and highlights Flemings’ longstanding collaborations with local Mayfair galleries. As a result, guests can enjoy a drink in the property’s luxurious 1930s-inspired bar in the company of work that expresses ideas linked directly to one of London’s oldest hotels. Farther afield, Waldorf Astoria Beijing’s Zijin Mansion restaurant takes a similar approach. Here Chinese artist Li Xubai’s ink on paper work ‘Clear Spring Water in the Mountain’ hangs above diners contemporary abstract visuals through the traditional Chinese brush-and-ink medium, commenting on the hotel’s marrying of history and modernity. “The art narrative is essential for a restaurant because it reinforces the story being told to guests, and helps evoke a strong sense of identity,” adds de Souza. “The wrong art selection can disorient and confuse, while the right art selection will infuse additional personality and enhance a diner’s relationship with the space.” Though curators may find themselves more restricted by the demands of hotel restaurant design - as opposed to the more flexible canvas of an entire hotel - the introduction of carefully considered art has helped produce unique F&B experiences around the globe. David Burke Fabrik, Archer Hotel, NYC, Kalisher
Much like food, art is universal and when handled adeptly, speaks in a language we can all understand.
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“Be noticed”
— Jesse Kalisher
"Portrait of Ethiopian Woman at Market" © Jesse Kalisher
kalisher.com
2017-07-Kalisher-Supper-Be-Noticed-Ad.indd 2
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Where Hospitality is redefined.
Dubai World Trade Centre 18 - 20 September 2017 The Hotel Show Dubai is the Middle East’s most prestigious hospitality event; it is where hoteliers come to do business. If you are a GM, owner / operator, procurement professional, interior designer, executive housekeeper, architect, chef or head of F&B, The Hotel Show Dubai is the perfect platform to meet the international suppliers you need. You will be joining a pool of 50,000 decision-makers and buyers from hotels, resorts and restaurants worldwide in discovering the very latest products and trends across the interiors, lighting and design, technology, security and catering sectors at more than 500 exhibitor stands, brought together from 85 countries. Global hospitality leaders will also be on hand to deliver hard facts and strategic insights in the “GM Leadership Forum“ series of interactive discussions, while the entire event will be studded with entertaining and educational live features like “The Middle East Housekeepers League of Champions” and “The Runway” for the region’s most influential Executive Housekeepers; “The Great Taste Theatre” for leading chefs and F&B directors, and “The Tec Innovation Zone” for IT and Engineering Directors.
REGISTER TODAY FOR FREE ENTRY www.thehotelshow.com/register
JOIN YOUR PEERS
PETITS FOURS
Parrot Nude
Designed by Swiss designer Tomas Kral - and following his Blow lamp for Nude in 2014 - Parrot is the brand’s playful carafe and glass set. Combining hand-blown glass with hand-painted decoration, the collection channels abstraction and simplicity for an unconventional vessel range reminiscent of the silhouette of a parrot. Functional and aesthetic, the decorative collection seeks to put a smile on guests’ faces. “I wanted to create something that would remind people of something they can’t quite put their finger on, whilst being modern,” Kral explains. “From a technical viewpoint it’s a combination of hand-blown glass and handdecoration which gives a certain value to the product.” Comprising shot glasses and beakers, the collection is available in translucent shades of grey and blue, as well as a more traditional clear glass version. All are adorned with simple linear design motifs, and suitable for a range of environments. www.nudeglass.com
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PETITS FOURS
1924
Aero Wine Measures
Libbey
Urban Bar
Offering guests Jazz-Age flair combined with refined sophistication, the design of Libbey’s 1924 collection is based on Richard Zijlstra’s Glassology food pairing concept, and allows drinkers to balance an ornate spoon on the rim of the coupe. Drawing inspiration from Royal Leerdam designer A.D. Copier’s original 1924 design, the range also comprises a gin and tonic glass, and wine glass, both with thin, distinctive stems, embossed footplates and elegant rims for enhanced flavours.
Reimagining the classic wine measure, Urban Bar’s Aero Wine Measures substitute the traditional tubular shape for a design featuring a narrowed waist and high polished finish. The curved profile creates an ergonomic grip and the easier pour typical of similar shaped jigger measures. Available in 125ml, 175ml and 250ml versions, the vessels are made from premium-grade Japanese steel and offer a high level of corrosion resistance. www.urbanbar.com
www.libbey.com
5050 Boston Cocktail Shaker Alessi
Designed by Ettore Sottsass, the 5050 Boston Cocktail Shaker was originally released in 1979. Comprised of two parts that fit within one another, the shaker set includes a large metal tumbler in 18/10 stainless steel, rendered flexible by a strain hardening operation, and a smaller tumbler in thick glass. The metal component can also be used as a handy mixing glass and is accompanied by a mixing spoon. www.alessi.com
140
Finewell Bitters Bottles with Dasher tops Cocktail Kingdom
Drawing inspiration from CEO Greg Boehm’s private collection, Cocktail Kingdom’s Gothic Style Finewell Bitters Bottles feature dasher tops with a silver-plated finish over 18/8 stainless steel bases. Designed by David Wondrich, the bottles offer a thicker cork for a closer, more comfortable fit, and come in lead-free, hand-washed crystal. Available in absinthe, bitters and house bitters configurations, pieces are 10.2cm high with a 5.7cm diameter. www.cocktailkingdom.com
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Bølling Tray Table Brdr. Krüger
Brdr. Krüger’s update of the classic Bølling Tray Table features a slightly wider and lower version, allowing users to combine both the 1963 original with this reissue. Originally designed by architect Hans Bølling, the piece can be used as a serving trolley or side table, and rests on a wooden H-frame that can be folded flat without the use of tools for easy storage. The two reversible trays, made of high-pressure laminate plates, can be reversed for colour variation, whilst new wood options, including beech black and smoked oak, complement additional colour updates such as storm blue and white, dusty lavender and moss green. Crafted at Brdr. Krüger’s workshop in Denmark, the wider update piece measures 60cm by 52cm, whilst the classic measures 50cm by 55cm. The two can be combined for a nested group of tables, allowing for a more versatile and adaptable set, suitable for a variety of dining room schemes and demanding F&B environments. www.brdr-kruger.com
142
PETITS FOURS
Pape’s Salt Oyster
Tapas Duo Set
Rosenthal
LSA International
Pape’s Salt Oyster combines Sylt Sea Salt with Rosenthal porcelain, resulting in the first German sea salt product from Alexandro Pape - chef de cuisine at Hotel and Restaurant Fährhaus Sylt. Offering a full-flavoured yet pleasantly mild salt note and crunchy texture, the product is entirely natural and arrives at the table in a Rosenthal porcelain oyster with a fine relief structure and mother-of-pearl glaze.
Marrying form and function, LSA International’s Tapas Duo Set is a practical, mixed material serving set comprising a stemmed ash wood tray, natural leather handle and two enamelled bowls for tapas dips, crudités or dessert sweets. Measuring 28cm by 19.5cm, the set offers a neat serving solution and inviting aesthetics. The enamel is dishwasher safe, whilst the wood can be effectively cleaned with a soft brush or damp cloth.
www.rosenthal.co.uk
www.lsa-international.com
Oslo
Metallic Placemat
Figgjo’s Oslo cup, designed by Kristin Hærnes Ihlen, is available in three different designs: Tulip, Split and Open. Tulip is designed to suit coffees with lower acidity, with the cone shape enhancing earthy aromas, whilst Split is more appropriate for intense fruity flavours, and works to amplify aromatics with its wide rim. Open, meanwhile, features a classic U-shape and can adapt to a wide variety of flavours and scents.
Fully handmade in the Netherlands, DutchDeluxes’ placemats are constructed from 100% leather and finished with an all-over dyed coating. Easy to rinse and clean, the mats are available in a range of solid primary colours, as well as a series of refined metallic tones including steel and bronze. Measuring 48 by 34cm the collection brings an element of elegant simplicity to the table.
www.figgjo.com
www.dutchdeluxes.com
Figgjo
DutchDeluxes
143
Champagne Stand Heritage Collection
Constructed from high-grade polished stainless steel, and featuring a hand-blown glass insert, Heritage Collection’s Champagne Stand was specifically designed with a heavy base for added stability. Available in either silver-plate or stainless steel, the product was first launched on one of the Cunard luxury cruise liners. Based in the UK, Heritage Collection has manufactured luxury tableware for over 30 years. Specialists in the bespoke creation of afternoon tea items in silver and steel, its designs can be found in The Ritz London, The Dorchester and The Lanesborough, amongst others. www.heritagesilverware.com
144
PETITS FOURS
Playground
Bernadotte
Porcelain specialist Schönwald’s Playground range combines the brand’s existing tableware collections with materials including ceramic, wood, leather, marble, slate, glass and metal. A response to the popular ‘shabby chic’ interiors trend, the range offers a distinctive textural aesthetic across several buffet and service products. By combining rustic influences with more typically graceful elements and materials, Schönwald channels new trends through timeless ideas.
Georg Jensen’s reissue of its classic Bernadotte bar collection sees a subtle updating of the sterling silver set, originally created by Sigvard Bernadotte over 50 years ago. Designed at the height the Art Deco era, its four pieces – a shaker, tray, beaker and ice bucket – feature a harlequin motif and hand-engraved lines. Working from original sketches, the faithful reimagining of Bernadotte’s creations are available as a set or individual components.
www.schoenwald.com
www.georgjensen.com
Oil Decanter
Rocket Cocktail Shaker
Made from hand-tarnished brass, the contents of Gentner’s Oil Decanter appears to move freely from container to spout without the two being visibly connected. Designed by Christopher Gentner and handcrafted in Chicago, the Oil Decanter is also available in darkened brass for more seductive interiors. Offering minimal presence whilst remaining a bold statement, the piece can be adapted to suit a variety of dining room environments.
Smith & Robinson’s silver-plated rocket cocktail shaker set includes a lemon squeezer, flask, four cups, four spoons, a bottle opener and corkscrew, all with luxurious gilded interiors. Measuring 23cm tall, the cocktail shaker boasts a distinctive rocket-shaped silhouette and is precision crafted for a distinguished finish and table presence. Origin Germany, circa 1930, and exhibited by Smith & Robinson at the LAPADA Fair, Berkeley Square, London.
www.gentnerdesign.com
www.smithandrobinson.com
Schönwald
Gentner
Georg Jensen
Smith & Robinson
145
Maincounter at the Restaurant Hiltl in Zurich (www.hiltl.ch)
Endless possibilities of professional food presentation As a leading system provider, we offer the right individual concept for any requirements and customer needs - Made in Switzerland. Perfectly tailored to any specific site, room and framework conditions. www.beergrill.com ¡ info@beergrill.com ¡ +41 (0)56 618 78 00
PETITS FOURS
Modular Line
Concrete Statement Plates
A comprehensive range of mobile buffet equipment, La Tavola’s Modular Line can be configured in a variety of arrangements to meet the changing needs of F&B service. Combining a sleek, contemporary design with robust materials and a patented mobile frame system, the range comprises nesting tables, bridges, carts, tops and sides in 12 standard finishes and with an extensive series of customisation options.
Tafelstern’s Concrete Statement Plates feature a design at odds with the current popularity of nature-inspired collections, working to ideally showcase a chef’s finest creations. The concrete look is available in three subtly different 28cm flat plate designs: bright and dark in a porous finish and bright in a fair faced finish. Packed in sixes, each item is stain and scratch resistant, and dishwasher safe.
www.la-tavola.it
www.tafelstern.com
Fino
Wonderlust
Toyo-Sasaki
Wedgewood
Featuring the brand’s signature delicate finish, Toyo-Sasaki’s thin rimmed and stackable Fino glass and tumbler range has been mechanically toughened to ensure longevity. Available in short and tall versions, holding 13oz and 13.5oz respectively, Fino is designed with an eye-catching line and distinctive concave-style silhouette.
An eclectic mix of patterns and colours make up Wedgewood’s Wonderlust collection, which takes cues from culture and art in the spirit of the historic ‘Grand Tour’. Combining exotic florals with rococo patterns across items including teacups, saucers, mugs, plates and bowls, the range is further accompanied by a selection of unique Wonderlust tea flavours.
www.toyo.sasaki.co.jp
www.wedgwood.co.uk
La Tavola
Tafelstern
147
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PETITS FOURS
Stella Vogue
Villeroy & Boch Featuring a white-on-white design finished with subtle matte gold highlights, Villeroy & Boch’s Stella Vogue collection creates a graceful and elegant atmosphere with its premium bone porcelain. Comprising 14 dishwasher safe plates, the collection is most suited to high dining occasions and offers a refined platform for ambitious gourmet ideas. Be it a large banquet or sophisticated buffet, Stella Vogue’s white relief décor blends effectively with the plate’s delicate, round shape, and lends charm and elegance to a variety of table presentations. Combined with the pure white Stella Hotel version, or with the brand’s Blossom Hotel and Modern Grace ranges, the collection can also be adapted to suit smaller, more intimate settings including high tea or Café Gourmand. www.pro.villeroy-boch.com
149
ADVERTISING INDEX
41 Madison
153
Pordamsa 099
Bar Convent Berlin
148
Portmeirion - Royal Worcester
Beer Grill
146
Robert Welch
Bodegas Marqués de Cáceres
013
Sauce Forum 2017
151
Bonna 091
Seltmann Weiden
029
Brintons 075
Service Ideas Inc
141
006 & 007
Castle Wines
101
Stölzle 039
Cognac Frapin - Champagne Gosset
111
Table 063
Craster 081
Tafelstern 033
Figgjo 004
Tiger 047
Fonderia Finco
079
To The table - Europe
135 107
Global Drinks Forum
113
To The table - MEA
Heritage Collection
051
VEEN 117
Hotel Show Dubai
138
Villeroy & Boch
045
Vista Alegre
086
Jacobs Douwe Egberts
008 & 009 049
Vollrath 105
Kalisher 137
Wedgwood 017
156
WNK 095
LSA 089
Zieher 035
John Jenkins
La Tavola
NIKKO Company
150
014
042
SAUCE FORUM 2017 THE NEXT COURSE: HOW TO SERVE THE FUTURE 11TH SEPTEMBER 2017 ESTONIAN NATIONAL MUSEUM TARTU, ESTONIA
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THE WASHING UP
be questioned, these are not luxury brands with luxury brand budgets. It stands to reason, therefore, that the hoteliers who are often deep in bed with the big brand owners of the beer, spirit and wine world, need to shift also if they are to emotionally engage with the millennial audience of today. For the luxury hotel sector this is a fine line to tread: developing food and drink concepts that capture the imagination and custom of a generation that resonates with independent craft brands, whilst at the same time ensuring they do not alienate the integral in-guest with a penchant - and budget - for luxury brands under the helm of conglomerates such as LVMH. But a few luxury hoteliers, with the help from specialised hospitality consultants, are raising the bar to meet the demands of an increasingly varied audience, successfully redefining what hotel food and drink can be.
The Changing Face of Luxury Hotel Bars Words: Barny Ingram, Bar Consultant, Gorgeous Group
O
ver the last century, the best of the world’s
The Langham, home to the aforementioned Artesian and
luxury hotel bars have found themselves nestled
Michel Roux Jr’s Roux at The Landau, is not only set to open
comfortably among the finest, most revered
The Wigmore - a modern British tavern pouring its own
drinking institutions of our time. From The
collaborative saison, brewed with Bermondsey’s Brew By
Savoy’s classic American Bar to The Langham’s highly
Numbers, cask ales and wine on tap - but it does so in the
conceptual Artesian, the PR machine is constantly in full
space that was previously the hotel’s spa, with prime position
throttle and seldom a year goes by that one won’t find these
on London’s Regent Street.
gold-tinted drinking establishments among the top of the
Similarly, the launch of The Principal London (formerly
world’s best lists – Artesian holding the World’s Best Bar
Hotel Russell) this autumn will see Burr & Co open in the
crown for four consecutive years until 2016.
heart of Bloomsbury. It will be a complete reimagining of
But as we enter what is possibly the most progressive
the smaller coffee shop found at The George, Edinburgh,
era for drink development of all time, luxury hotel drinking
becoming an all day eating and drinking café bar. London’s
need not be all about the £18 theatrical cocktail serve if the
Caravan Coffee is at the heart of the offer during the day: 16
concept stories created are to appeal to the wider target
taps behind the bar will serve rotational craft beers, wines
audience of today.
and nitro cold brew coffee, taking their millennial guests well
The drinking trends of the millennial generation continue to
into the evening, seven days a week. Other F&B within The
evolve toward independent craft brands across all categories
Principal London includes a Palm Court for a luxury gin and
and, whereas the ‘golden era of the cocktail’ at the turn of
tonic experience, and Fitz, a cocktail bar that will put a twist
the 20th Century saw many of today’s classics created behind
on timeless classic cocktails and place them in a glamorous
the bar, today’s movement is driven directly by the breweries,
late night party den.
roasteries and craft distilleries.
This is seriously intelligent concept development for the
Often found tucked within the graffiti ridden railway
hotel sector that shows how even the most luxury of hotel
arches of our inner cities, these urban production facilities
brands can effectively capture the heart and minds of a truly
emotionally engage the consumer through social media,
diverse audience, changing the face and perception of what
trading directly from source via their tap and tasting rooms
luxury hotel F&B can be in a way that the rest of the sector
at weekends and sending the fruits of their labour out to the
would do very well to follow.
local bars through small independent distributors during the week. Whilst the quality of many of these products can seldom
152
www.gorgeousgroup.com
41Mad Supper Mag 061517 F2_Layout 1 6/15/17 1:10 PM Page 1
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