Page 1

ISSUE 3

Adam Tihany

From pupil to master: reflecting on a life in design

Alex Kratena

On success, sustainability and life after Artesian

Pierre Koffmann

Marking 50 years behind the pass, why the kitchen is still home


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CONTENTS

Setting

SPECIALS

Entrée 015

Starters

Room for Thought

The Restaurant

SIPPING Cocktails 043

Santoro

Appetizers 019

Grace Santorini

Trends and concepts impacting the world of

Oratorio

global hotel F&B

Elma Arts Complex, Zichron Ya’akov Saltz

Asia

076

The Donovan Bar, London

Amanemu Hotel, Shima 044

The Fallen Garden

078

Hendricks Bar 046

Be Healthy

080

Be Bop Bar, Prague 048

Dolder Gran, Zurich Rofuto

050

SERVICE

Drinks Blakes Restaurant Bar

Park Regis, Birmingham

A Modern Classic Main Course The One Who Got Away

82

Blakes Hotel, London

024

Paper Daisy

Pioneering restaurant designer Adam

Halcyon House, Cabarita Beach

Tihany reflects upon a life in design

Ocean

86

Ginaissance 90 052

P(OUR)

96

Jameson’s New Family

98

056

Vila Vita Parc, Algarve Väkst Koffmann’s Kitchen

030

064

SP34, Copenhagen

Marking 50 years in the industry,

Restaurant Le Cinq Codet

chef Pierre Koffmann discusses hotel

Le Cinq Codet, Paris

restaurants, pig’s trotters and why

Giardino

retirement didn’t suit him

Palazzo Versace, Dubai

068

SIDES

072 Coffee Culture 106 DIY Cocktails 110 Events 114

Czech Please

036

Petit Fours

122

Renowned bartender Alex Kratena on success, innovation and life after Artesian

005


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Setting

“People like titles and statuettes but they don’t really mean anything. Just as the best restaurant in the world can be the café next door if you enjoy the food.” Pierre Koffmann on praise and subjectivity.


THE GOLDEN DRAM Distilling since 1898 in the town of ABERFELDY stands one of the last remaining PERTHSHIRE distilleries. The ABERFELDY DISTILLERY sources its water from the PITILIE BURN, prized locally for its purity and rich deposits of gold and minerals. The unique water source, combined with Scottish malted barley, creates adeliciously rich but easy drinking dram. Aberfeldy is famous for its particular honeyed notes - they come from the patient process of longer fermentation, which allows for more flavour development. We then distil in COPPER POT STILLS, HANDMADE by the same family for over a century, and age to perfection in oak casks.

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ENTRée

Room for Thought

I

t’s a miserable night in the French capital. Outside torrential

are other cocktail options in the room’s minibar, ripe for the

rain is blanketing the streets and, combined with the wind,

taking. Heavy crystal glasses lie in wait. Whether room service

the last of the late night stragglers meandering the 9th

or minibar, both are ultimately options that allow the guest

arrondissement have been driven inside.

freedom to eat or drink without stepping outside the door, if

It’s my third visit to Paris in as many weeks. I’m holed up

they so wish.

in my room at Le Grand Pigalle after a lengthy day involving

In many ways my own evening cut to the core of the in-

a train, another train, a misadventure on the metro and

room F&B experience: one decision driven by need, the other

eventually a drawn-out walk through backstreets, suitcase

by desire. What hotels are rapidly realising is that the room

in hand. Like many travellers – business or pleasure –

service and minibar models are becoming untenable when

eventually stepping into a hotel room on such an evening is

attached only to need. Had I arrived a few hours earlier,

an unrivalled bliss.

had the weather been better and had my knowledge of the

In my own case, the one pressing issue was that aside from

neighbourhood been more substantial, I likely would have

a woefully inadequate St Pancras sandwich hours earlier, I

made a different dining choice. But desire is a very different

was running on an empty stomach. The only convenience

guest motivation.

store offering a hot meal ‘nearby’ was neither very near nor

Take Blakes Hotel in London. We explore its new restaurant

very open. The thought of dusting myself off and propping

bar later in the issue, but when it comes to the rooms one

myself up at a dinner table downstairs with only minutes

will no longer find the staple selection of highly priced,

until service stopped was unappealing. So I did as so many

undersized alcohol supplies. Instead, if guests fancy an in-

do, I scanned the in-room menu for whatever seemed hearty,

room pre-dinner drink, a nightcap or even hair of the dog,

unfussy, relatively economical and called to reception. And

they can phone through an order. The bar will whisk up a

there, no more than 20 minutes later, was a pleasantly

cocktail of their choice and deliver it straight to the room. In

presented tray of relief.

this instance convenience needn’t trump choice or quality.

Now, fed and watered, I can’t help but think about the vital

Room service becomes a desirable option. At the Ace Hotel

role that room service played in both the experience of my

New Orleans, guests are presented with an in-room cocktail

day and, more specifically, my experience of the hotel. When

bar complete with cocktail shaker, cutting board, glassware,

we think of room service we often think about a hotel F&B

cocktail recipe guide and mini-sized bitters. The ‘minibar’

offer that is reaping ever diminishing returns. Some hotel

becomes a desirable option.

groups are deleting the service altogether whilst others are

Arguably the future of in-room hotel F&B now lies in how

scaling back, offering food and drink only during restaurant

hotels hope to motivate guests to use and experience their

opening hours.

services. Expecting that convenience will outbalance cost is

My own choice was arguably one of necessity. What wasn’t

perhaps no longer sustainable. But encouraging guests to

necessity however, was to sample the hand bottled, specially

order in or open up through the provision of creative concepts

mixed Negroni that had been left for me beside the bed. A

could reinvent the in-room model. And in that, there’s

handwritten brown manila tag lists the ingredients. There

certainly room for thought.

Harry McKinley | Editor

015


THE BRIGADE

Editorial

Advertising

Finance

Editor-in-Chief

Advertising Manager

Finance Director

Matt Turner

Rachel Chadwick

Amanda Giles

m.turner@mondiale.co.uk

r.chadwick@mondiale.co.uk

a.giles@mondiale.co.uk

Editor Harry McKinley

Marketing

h.mckinley@mondiale.co.uk

Group Credit Controller Lynette Levi l.levi@mondiale.co.uk

Editorial Intern

Brand Director

Group Financial Controller

Kris Thomas

Amy Wright

Sarah Miller

a.wright@mondiale.co.uk

s.miller@mondiale.co.uk

Contributors Design

Accounts Assistant Kerry Mountney k.mountney@mondiale.co.uk

Angus Winchester Dan F Stapleton Dominic Roskrow

Design

Emilee Jane Tombs

David Bell

Emily Elyse Miller

d.bell@mondiale.co.uk

Corporate

Juliet Kinsman Lauren Ho

Photographers

Production

Chairman

Dan Seaton

Damian Walsh

d.seaton@mondiale.co.uk

d.walsh@mondiale.co.uk

Addie Chinn

Website designed and developed by

Chris Tonnesen

93ft.com

Gili Shani Supper is printed by Buxton Press

Nico Shaerer Paulo Barata Richard Pereira Scott Gordon Bleicher Simon Watson Vasco Celio William Hereford

Supper Magazine, Strawberry Studios, Stockport, SK1 3AZ, UK Tel: +44 (0)161 476 5580 • www.suppermagazine.co.uk


SIX DECADES OF DESIGN Email: hospitality@welch.co.uk

Online: robertwelch.com

Telephone: +44 (0)1386 840880


The food organisation behind all great kitchens

KILNER SUPER CLUB.indd 1

17/06/2016 15:07


APPETISERS

Breaking out in Hives

With sustainability becoming a vital element in contemporary

the colonies provide bees with much needed safe spaces, and

hotel design, development and management, innovative new

keep hotel chef’s supplied with regular batches of the complex

methods to achieve a green reputation have emerged. From

flavour option, but also significantly aid the surrounding area,

recycled materials being utilised in the construction process, to

with the bees pollinating landscaped elements of hotels and

solar energy powering the guestrooms, hotels across the planet

keeping the views serene.

have taken steps to increase the efficiency of their developments,

Rooftop bees provide honey for two of Waldorf Astoria’s

whilst decreasing their effect on the wider environment.

most popular dishes, providing wild strawberries with a wonderfully thick dipping sauce, and the field and forest

In recent years, brands such as Fairmont, Firmdale and

mushroom chowder with subtle tones of natural flavour.

Waldorf Astoria have introduced beehives to the rooftops of

Waldorf’s Park Avenue New York property boasts a hive of

their hotels in an effort to simultaneously address the insect’s

300,000 bees alone and, since the ban on beekeeping in the city

rapidly decreasing global population, and provide guests with

was lifted, over 300 colonies have sprung up around the city.

organic, homegrown honey to accompany their respective food and beverage programmes.

Rooftop gardens have become commonplace in many independent developments and chains alike, but becoming

Fairmont in particular has become a leading chain in this

similarly popular are these expansive hives that not only

respect, with its Fairmont Bee Sustainable Platform spanning

benefit the dwindling species so integral to our ecosystem, but

22 properties in North America, Asia and Africa, and many

allow hotels to give something back to the space around them,

hiring staff specifically to maintain the hives. Not only do

and serve their own unique honey straight from hive to jar.

019


APPETISERS

Penne to the dollar

Over the course of five years, consumer reports have

With over one hundred million people now claiming that they are

highlighted that - despite its historic status as a staple of

actively working to eliminate gluten from their diets, a large dent

diets worldwide - pasta may be a failing dish. These worrying

has been hammered into both the popularity and profitability of

documents confirm that consumption has dropped by 8% in

pasta, a trend that now threatens to spread uncertainty into the

Australia, 13% in Europe, and a staggering 25% in Italy. With

potato and bread markets also.

quinoa, chickpeas, lentils, spelt, barley and chia becoming

However, a conflicting report from New York based research

more appealing as healthier and more nutritious alternatives to

firm Nielsen has provided a ray of light in these dark times,

carbs, and the emergence of vegetable spiralisers pandering to

suggesting that sales may have been up 2.9% this year, signaling

the increasingly large health-conscious market, the foodstuff

a resurgence of interest after a long period of decline. Google

could slowly be edging towards a slow, starchy demise.

searches of rigatoni and other short cut pastas have risen, and, according to the search engine giant, “It’s time for marketers to

A combination of the recent gluten free movement, lingering

020

refocus their attention on pasta.”

historical elements including the popularity of the Atkins and

The pasta market has been volatile to say the least, and, though

South Beach diets, the demonisation of carbs by those looking

a recession looked likely, perhaps a crash is avoidable. It is still

to shed a few pounds, and a collective shift towards protein rich

too early to tell if bread will recover quite so swiftly, but after

foods present in many new diets, could all prove to be pasta’s

years of uncertainty, worrying numbers and a sullied reputation,

death knell.

pasta may just be back with a vengeance.


5689 WWRD Sleeper Magazine advert 0616 AW.indd 1

07/06/2016 12:53


APPETISERS

Coravin

A

allows

strong results, with an average of only 3 professionals out

restaurants, bars, and wine drinkers at home,

new

device

has

been

created

that

of 15 currently being able to correctly identify the difference.

to serve a glass without ever breaking the seal.

Jancis Robinson comments: “I cannot fault Coravin technically and I can easily see its applications for

022

The Coravin wine extracting system operates by penetrating

restaurateurs who would like to offer particularly fine wines

a thin needle through the cork in order to extract the wine

by the glass,” whilst Anthony Rose of the Independent notes:

and propel it into a waiting glass. Subsequently, the cork

“It’s a Godsend for me and wine geeks everywhere.” The

automatically reseals itself, and the remaining wine in the

system is gathering pace in the food and beverage industry

bottle is perfectly preserved by the inert gas injected into it

and is available widely in the US whilst shipping to over 20

by the device.

countries worldwide.

Invented by Greg Lambrecht, a medical inventor whose

Significantly cheaper than an enomatic dispenser,

previous best-sellers included a spinal implant device, the

the current market standard, Lambrecht’s device is set

product could potentially provide a solution to the age-old

to revolutionise the wine industry with its innovative

problems of unnecessary alcohol waste and the swift dip

mechanism. With little interruption to, or altering of the

in quality of an opened aged wine, and will allow wine fans

wine’s development process, and coming with an easily

everywhere to sample without ever having to technically open

cleanable spout and needle, a nuclear engineer without a

the bottle. Developed over the space of 10 years and 4,000

single wine qualification may just have changed the face of

bottle tests, the Coravin system has produced consistently

the industry for years to come.


SERVICE

“You don’t have to spend a night at a hotel to enjoy its bar. It’s a way to communicate with design, to see what’s happening in the world.” Adam Tihany on the democracy of hotel F&B design.


SERVICE

The One Who Got Away One of the most prolific names in global F&B, Adam Tihany has been widely credited as a pioneer of restaurant design. From Four Seasons and Mandarin Oriental to One&Only and Westin, he has embarked on hotel projects that have defined the industry and bridged the gap between design and hospitality.

Words: Harry McKinley

A

few minutes after arrival and we’re

Nonetheless his stature and international

somewhere that was accepting students from

shifting tables to follow the sun. It’s

renown is likely to provide a focal point for

Israel in the 60s. But, imagine, there was no

a blazingly warm day in Paris and

conversation and, as such, he’s feeling a little

Internet. Research was a very different ball

the starched white tablecloths of

trepidation about the whole affair. As he readily

game from today.” In the end the only option

admits, he’s the ‘one who got away’.

he could find was Italy. Two faculties were

the terrace at La Réserve are playing host to glasses of chilled wine, iced teas and al fresco

taking on students and the contrast was stark:

lunches. It’s an apt spot to meet. The hotel

Israelis of his generation, he was often defined

one was architecture in Milan and the other

is, in many ways, much like Tihany: classic

by a desire to chase the bright lights of Europe

veterinary medicine in Bologna. “As I always

but characterful, expensive looking but not

and America where, it seemed, opportunities

say, the only thing I knew about architecture

ostentatiously so.

were plentiful and life was more cosmopolitan.

was that I didn’t want to be a veterinarian,” he

“I joined the military service in 1966 and in

says with a smile.

He’s in a bright mood. On a day like this, so

024

Tihany grew up in Jerusalem and, like many

are most people, but it’s clear from the way he

1967 the Six Days War broke out. So instead

immediately springs into conversation, having

of two years long, my military service became

success stories, there’s no pretense that he

cheerfully debated table arrangements with

three,” he explains. “By the time I was finished

was a protégé from birth, instead he admits

the waiters, that he’s an affable kind of guy.

the only thing I knew I wanted to do was to

the initial stages of his journey were as much a

Prime eating site secured, trademark spectacles

leave the country and go somewhere else.”

matter of circumstance as choice. He certainly

swapped for shades and we’re already in full

Of course, four decades ago, that was a far

didn’t disembark in Milan with a wealth of

flow. He has a school reunion coming up and

from straightforward goal. The world seemed

knowledge and a burning desire to design, nor

it’s dominating his thoughts. It’s been 50 years

a much larger place and resources were less

does he imbue his experience with a rose tinted

since he’s seen many of those attending and,

accessible. “My parents weren’t well off

hue. “I didn’t speak a word of Italian and I

by all accounts, they’re a successful bunch:

enough to send me to the United States or

didn’t know anything about architecture,” he

members of parliament, doctors, lawyers

to the UK, so I had to find a place that had

says. “I just happened to arrive in 1969, which

- a veritable checklist of lofty professions.

public universities and subsidised education,

was the height of the student movement and

Tihany’s candour is refreshing. Unlike many


Adam Tihany at the bar of The Grill by Thomas Keller on Seabourn Quest Photography: William Hereford


SERVICE

xxx

Oro at the Belmond Cipriani Hotel, Venice

the social revolution. So from one war, which

the world and that which inhabits it. “This was

international in between in terms of style,”

I understood, to another war I had no clue

the beginning of plastic furniture, of lighting

says Tihany. “So after that exhibition a couple

about, it was a pretty grim transition. This

design as we know it, it was the beginning

of American firms came to Milan looking to

was the time when all of the great architects

of everything,” he says. “Being a part of

import a designer and start an Italian design

were unemployed and they changed their focus

that time, of that movement leaves a hefty

studio.” Already one foot on the plane, he

to furniture design, packaging and graphics.

sediment and it will always stay with me.”

seized upon the opportunity and volunteered

Because the universities were dysfunctional I

immediately. Suddenly the idea of the Big

had to work and study the profession the old

dream remained. The skyscrapers, smoking

fashioned way, like an apprentice. Eating and

sidewalks and urban cacophony of New York

breathing it everyday you could say I became a

City were etched on his mind. It was the idea

but, after landing a large residential project,

designer by osmosis and training, rather than

of the place that continued to call to him, the

opened his own New York office in 1978. Back

by reading books.”

vision of a world far removed from the dusty,

in Paris, almost three decades later, he drops

wheat brown streets of Jerusalem and even the

another ice cube into a glass of rosé and, with a

progressive but Euro-centric Milan.

broad smile, leans back and notes, “and this is

What only becomes clear with the benefit of hindsight and the context of time is that

026

Throughout these years Tihany’s American

Apple was usurped by the real thing. Tihany worked for the firm for several years

Tihany had hit a swelling cultural wave that,

By 1973 he had completed his studies and

when it broke, would sweep across the global

was working at a Milanese studio tasked with

design industry. The likes of Umberto Eco,

designing part of a major new exhibition at

Tihany exudes the charisma of someone who

Aldo Rossi and Paolo Portoghesi were all

the Museum of Modern Art in New York City.

has spent his life in a person-driven industry.

professors at the time and Tihany notes that it

Curated by Emilio Ambasz, the Argentine

In many ways he’s also a salesman: selling his

was the craft and culture of design that proved

architect who would become known as an

ideas to clients and convincing them of their

most formative as opposed to the structured,

early proponent of ‘green architecture’, The

logic and appeal, then crucially having guests

formal education process. Riding on the crest

New Domestic Landscape was an introduction

sold on the final design experience. Yet in his

of revolution but battling a financial crisis,

to Italian design for the US. “It had a lot of

early days the greatest struggle was selling

designers were using constraints to fuel

resonance because, before that, the last big

himself to those who couldn’t figure out which

innovation, spurred by a new way of looking at

wave of design was Danish. There was nothing

box to put him in. People would ask if he was

where the adventure really begins.” A storyteller at heart, and arguably by craft,


SERVICE

a product designer, a furniture designer, an

embarking on projects throughout the world

but a very noisy flea.” The main restaurant,

architect or an interior designer. “All of the

and working with numerous hotel groups.

Firebird Diner, is a collaboration with chef and

above,” he would say. “Give me a problem and

But the biggest difference between then and

restaurateur Michael Mina and is an elevated

I’ll design the solution.”

now, thinks Tihany, is the sheer popularity

take on classic Americana. From its windows

of food and drink. Eating out or grabbing a

one can take in an impressive view of the

years,” he says; now making light work of

drink at a bar has become the lubricant for

Downtown skyline. The juxtaposition between

a club sandwich. “Because people were very

modern social interaction. “F&B spaces are

American diner and the polished, monolithic

concerned about giving contracts to someone

really one of the main places that afford public

buildings of the Middle Eastern cityscape

they couldn’t give a very narrow definition to.

access,” Tihany says. “You don’t have to spend

just beyond the glass highlights another

But I completely refused to pigeonhole myself.

a night at a hotel to enjoy its bar. It’s a way

of Tihany’s dividers: the ability to balance

I didn’t want to succumb to the system. I

to communicate with design, to see what’s

authenticity and pastiche.

adopted a stubborn mentality and an attitude

happening in the world. It used to be that every

of ‘I am how I am, you take it for what it is’,

great architect always wanted to design a chair

or more to the point an overly misused word.

starving or not starving.”

and it’s a great tribute to the industry that now

For him there can be no ‘authentic’ French

it’s a restaurant. Which still has a lot of chairs

bistro in New York City. Authenticity is about

of course.”

the reality, not the looks. “Authentically Rome

“Needless to say, I was starving for

Had it backfired we’d call it hubris of course, or idealism. But the fire in Tihany’s belly kept the hunger at bay and life would subsequently

For Tihany the downside of a blossoming

For Tihany authenticity is an overused word,

is the obscure trattoria where the mother

deal him an Ace, setting him on a trajectory

trade is the glut of those hopping on board

painted the walls herself and where the brother

towards international recognition. The year

who don’t ultimately add value. Amateurs he

is bringing the food. You can’t duplicate that.

was 1980 and the setting was Studio 54. Tihany

calls them, rather bluntly. It sounds direct,

You can have a New York style trattoria, for

was approached by someone familiar with

harsh even, but it doesn’t come from a place

example, but don’t call it authentic. However, I try to avoid pastiche as much as possible. When I was designing the Mandarin Oriental in Las

“I was the first person to ever call themselves a restaurant designer, so I have to take credit for the lowsy invention”

Vegas the client wanted contemporary with only a whiff of Asian. I had to explain to them that the location, Las Vegas, was as important as their brand identity. Las Vegas is ground zero for ‘theme’. I wasn’t going to produce a replica of a Chinese temple, but I wanted to

his work and asked if he’d be interested in

of conceit or even judgment, but out of his

play up two words: Mandarin and Oriental.

designing a restaurant. Driven by a thirst to

deeply held conviction that design should first

When people hear those they don’t imagine

work and a desire to eat, he was definitive in

and foremost be good design. He categorises

a cold, cerebral, Armani-ish hotel. I had to

his response: “I’ll design anything.”

the pros and the not-so-pros by splitting

convince the brand to amp up their image

The restaurant, it transpired, was a New York

them into two camps: those who work in two

otherwise people wouldn’t get it. So that’s

offshoot of Paris’s La Coupole and would be the

dimensions and those who work in three. The

authentic, because that’s Las Vegas. When we

first grand café in the city. The 225-seat Park

third key dimension is depth. It’s not enough

worked on the King David Hotel, the question

Avenue spot would emulate the Art Deco style

to cut and paste the ideas of others, or even to

was always, what is the essence of Jerusalem?

of the original, with Tihany responsible for

merely deliver exactly what the client asks for,

Well, for someone who grew up there, it’s one

everything from the interior architecture and

there has to be substance and a point of view.

thing. For someone who visits, it’s another.

furniture, to the graphics, lighting and china.

“Let me use an analogy,” says Tihany. “I’m

Good design is about taking both of those

“The restaurant opened in a huge snowstorm

a portrait artist. I create a portrait of my client.

perspectives into account. You can deduce

in 1981 but still people flocked. Andy Warhol

It’s my point of view, but it’s still a portrait.

which buttons you need to push to make the

couldn’t get in and from that point onwards it

Take a hotel chef, it’s important that when

guest feel as though they are experiencing

was the hottest ticket in town.”

they walk into their space, they feel it’s like a

something local.”

Tihany was doing what he loved to do and

custom suit. As though somebody took their

For all of this talk of hotel F&B design, the

the success of the project encouraged him to go

measurements. Then from the guest side, the

interesting thing is that we’re having the

and have a sign printed. It read: Adam Tihany,

space should be level with the expectation

conversation while sat on an outdoor terrace.

Restaurant Designer. In one fell swoop he had

of what they’re going to get. You don’t want

Essentially the Paris streets, obscured by

defined himself and birthed a profession. “I

to walk into a place that screams formality

hedgerow, are our backdrop. Interior design is

was the first person to ever call themselves a

and elegance and get served a grilled cheese

playing little role in our current experience of

restaurant designer, so I have to take credit for

sandwich.”

the hotel or indeed of the meal we’re sharing.

the lowsy invention,” he says. Now of course, restaurant design is a

Tihany’s most recent hotel project was the

When we raise this with Tihany he’s pragmatic

Four Seasons DIFC in Dubai, for which he

in addressing the overall role that design plays

thriving, self-sustaining industry and Tihany

designed the interiors. He describes it in terms

in hotel F&B. “I can’t be presumptuous and

has progressed to global design stardom,

of the market as “a flea on a camel’s back,

say that a restaurant begins and ends with the

027


SERVICE

Per Se, New York City

design. People don’t go to restaurants because

reaction is to say, ‘Why do you want to screw

job’ he’s on the boards of the Design Museum

they’re hungry. If they’re hungry they can

up an architectural marvel? You’re going to

Holon in Tel Aviv and the Pratt Institute in New

open the fridge and make a sandwich,” he says.

kill the space. The developer looks and me and

York; and he is the creative director of both the

“We go to restaurants, number one, to be with

says, ‘Well what would you do?’ Of course I

Culinary Institute of America and Costa Cruises.

other people. So that experience is helped by

had no idea but he gave me until 9am the next

His studio, for which he remains fully hands

service, by the food and then by design. Even

morning.”

on, is in the process of renovating the Oberoi

now though, design is playing a role because you’re sitting in a comfortable chair.” This sense of perspective came when

Hotel in New Delhi and continues to work

brain for inspiration that wasn’t forthcoming.

on the design of the luxury Seabourn cruise

Defeated, at 2.30am he turns on the television

vessels, collaborating with chef Thomas Keller.

Tihany opened his own restaurant, Remi, in

only to find Mission Impossible playing. “Tom

1987. He describes the first five years of the

Cruise is hanging in the middle of a white room

the world and how it’s moving,” he says. “I’m

restaurant as the most formative of his career.

and I realise, there it is. We’re going to do a

waiting patiently for filament lamps to fade out.

Every designer that worked for him had to

skyscraper in the middle, all glass, put the wine

That and farm-to-table. Some trends really do

work at least once in the restaurant to gain

inside it and have girls fly up and down getting

swallow the whole mid-market. I don’t go for

an understanding of operations and it was

the wine, like wine angels. So I sketch it at

trends. Something trendy is already passé.”

here that he learnt that the front of house was

3.30am and I have a meeting with him at 9am.

only as good as the back of house. “A lot of

I’m describing it to and he’s looking at me like

the steady shuffle to collect belongings before

designers think of the restaurant - the front

I’ve lost my mind. He picks up his phone and

heading into the Paris sun, we return to the

of house - as a showroom,” he explains, “and

I’m thinking, OK, security is on its way. But he

school reunion. Is it really so worrisome? From

they don’t really understand what it takes to

connects to his assistant and says, ‘Sally, cancel

Milan to Studio 54 he has quite the tale to tell.

run a restaurant. It really is a marriage between

the bloody stairs.’ Those are the moments. You

But for Tihany his story is perhaps the other

the two spaces. It’s not just a flirt.”

either soar to the occasion or you get kicked out

way around. Having spent his younger years

of an office.”

dreaming of escape, rising he says, “Someone

His most formative project meanwhile was the Aureole Wine Tower in Las Vegas, which

028

A long night ensued as Tihany dredged his

“More importantly I’m always curious about

As the waiters clear the table and we begin

Listening to Tihany recount both his entry

very wise told me a long time ago, you’ll

was the result of an unlikely inspiration. “I will

into the F&B design industry and discuss some

never know where you’re going to unless

never forget the first day I was taken to see the

of his notable projects serves as a reminder of

you remember where you came from. That

space. There’s a 50ft by 50ft hole in the ground

the sheer breadth of his work. He has no plans

summarises it for me. Wherever you came

and we are entering it at mid-level. I’m shown

to retire of course, but he is at the stage where

from will always be relevant. Celebrate it and

where the stairs are going to be and my gut

he’s considering his legacy. Outside of his ‘day

pass it on.”


Creating Hospitality

Professional Glassware Selection Always up to the job

Villeroy & Boch S.à.r.l. Hotel & Restaurant 330, rue de Rollingergrund 2441 Luxembourg Tel.: + (352) 46 82 11 · Fax: + (352) 46 90 22 E-mail: info.hr@villeroy-boch.com www.villeroy-boch.com/hotel

VLH 16463 SUPPER_MAG_ 236x275cm_glassware.indd 1

23.05.16 15:56


SERVICE

Koffmann’s Kitchen Marking 50 years in the industry, we speak to celebrated chef Pierre Koffmann about hotel restaurants, pig’s trotters and why retirement didn’t suit him.

Words: Harry McKinley

O

ur first introduction to Pierre Koffman isn’t at a

Food has always been a part of Koffmann’s life from an

carefully arranged dinner table or coffee-ready

early age and he’s quick to recall how his mother would

bar. He’s chopping vegetables in preparation

overfeed him and also time spent with his grandparents:

for lunch service at his eponymously titled

farmers who had little interest in newfangled concepts. His

restaurant at The Berkeley Hotel, London. This year the 68-year chef old marks 50 years in the

grandmother would often cook over an open fire. “At the time, in the 50s, food was very important,” he

business, but unlike many of his peers he hasn’t migrated

says. “It was after the war and so there were few of the

to a comfortable job as the ‘face’ of a restaurant, enjoying

luxuries of today: cinema, or TV. Everything was about

long lunches from the guest side of the pass. No, the

time spent around the table and food. As soon as my

kitchen is still firmly his home.

grandparents had finished lunch they would say, ‘What do

Despite moving to London in 1970, Koffmann still has the easy, self-possesed demeanour of a Frenchman, not

you want to have for dinner?’” This relationship with food was merely a part of family

to mention the accent. Decades across the Channel and

life at the time, of course. It was only when Koffmann was

international repute haven’t pulled him too far from his

in his teens that the prospect of a career in the industry

upbringing in France’s sun kissed southwest.

presented itself. Even then it couldn’t be said it was a path

When we do sit, there’s little formality. He reclines into

he chased. He was ‘hopeless’ at school, he says, except for

a chair with a comfortable nonchalance. He embodies

sport. The headmaster would push and encourage him,

the spirit of someone relaxing on a beachside lounger in

assuming potential, but in the end – whether beaten down

Saint-Tropez, not a busy chef less than an hour from a

or recognizing that that potential lay outside of academia

fully booked lunch sitting. It’s the kind of energy that puts

– he gave up. “The headmaster used to say I could do

others at ease. Whether those who work in his kitchen feel

better. Always, that I could do better. But then eventually

the same is another thing, but certainly on first impressions

he simply said, ‘perhaps Pierre would do better somewhere

there’s a warmth amongst the staff at Koffmann’s, both

else’. And that was that,” Koffmann says, with a shrug.

front of house and back.

Although problematic at the time, it pushed him onto a

031


xxx

xxx

Soufflé aux Pistaches


SERVICE

journey with food. From a small town of 2,000 people where

they don’t really mean anything. Just as the best restaurant

opportunities were scant, and not quite knowing what to do

in the world can be the café next door if you enjoy the food,

next, he applied for cookery school. Although he’d retained

so a chef’s chef can be anyone.”

his love of food he made the decision because, ultimately,

He may not enjoy titles or sycophantic praise, but it’s

it was still a school. He didn’t feel ready to tackle the world

hard to argue that 50 years in the business hasn’t given

head-on as a teenager. He wasn’t ‘a man yet’.

Koffmann a distinct perspective on the evolution of the

After three years at the school Koffmann embarked on

restaurant trade. He’s seen London, in particular, develop

his regional studies, moving around France to learn the

from a city were the food was ‘just terrible’ in the 1970s

various cuisines and techniques. It was a different time,

– all ‘smoked salmon and roast beef’ - to a gastronomic

when regional food was truly regional and knowledge of

capital. He’s seen the world open up so that ingredients

different food cultures could only be gleaned by heading to

that would previously have been impossible or prohibitively

their source, absorbing the spirit of the place and learning

expensive to obtain, are now available year round. And he’s

from those around.

seen his own profession transformed from an unfashionable

It was not a love of food that took him to London, however, but a love of rugby. “I wanted to see the French

trade to a career that can turn chefs into celebrities. He’s also seen the peaks and troughs of the hotel restaurant. “When I came to England the only restaurants that had good reputations were in hotels,” he says, “The Connaught

“People like titles and statuettes but they don’t really mean anything. Just as the best restaurant in the world can be the café next door if you enjoy the food”

and The Savoy for example. But then hotel restaurants disappeared and the best chefs opened their own places. It was a big change. Now the hotels are hiring the top chefs to attract people. In some ways it’s a full circle.” Just like hotel restaurants, Koffmann has had his own blip, albeit a voluntary one. In 2003 he decided to bid au

against the English at Twickenham,” he says. “That was

revoir to the kitchen. Fed up, tired and with an insurance

the most interesting game, the only one to win - to beat

policy that would provide him a comfortable retirement, he

England. I’m sure it was the same for the Irish, the Scottish

packed up his knives and unpacked his fishing rod. “I went

and the Welsh.”

all over the world for a year,” he says. “Then I came back

That was 1970 and the plan, albeit a loose one, was to

to London and I was still in bed at 9 o’clock and waking at

move to London for six months. Plenty of time to take

9 o’clock. I would go for a cappuccino somewhere, think

in a game, continue working as a chef and then process

about where I could have lunch with some wine, go home

paperwork to move on to Australia, or perhaps the USA.

to have a little siesta and in the evening see my girlfriend

What he didn’t bank on was falling for the country he so

at the time. But I knew if I kept living that way in two years

desperately wanted to trounce on the field. “I came and I

time I’d be dead. The problem with me is I know nothing

enjoyed it,” he says. “46 years and I’m still here.”

and I don’t enjoy anything except cooking.”

Those 46 years have proved fruitful for Koffmann. First

Struggling with retirement and in an effort to fill his

head chef of the Roux brothers’ Waterside Inn in 1976, he

time with more than cappuccino and siestas, he took a

would meet his late first wife who was the restaurant’s

consultancy job. The money was excellent but he found the

manager. He subsequently opened his own restaurant, La

role dull. Along the way he met Claire, now his wife. “You

Tante Claire, which would go on to earn three Michelin

know women, they want to organise your life, so Claire

stars. During this period he also worked with the likes of

found a job for me. It was a popup restaurant on top of

Marco Pierre White, Marcus Wareing and Gordon Ramsay,

Selfridges. It was supposed to be for a week.”

all of whom went on to stellar careers in the kitchen. Yet he speaks of the time in an offhand manner. His

The restaurant went on to stay open for eight weeks during which Koffmann worked seven days a week from

accomplishments were not, as he says, ‘life changing’. As

morning until midnight. He lost 12 kilos and shifted 3,200

with most things work, Koffmann is unperturbed. When

of his signature pig’s trotters. “It was a bit like Frank

we bring up Michel Roux Jnr’s comment that Koffmann is

Sinatra coming back from the dead,” he jokes.

a ‘chef’s chef’ he bats it away. It’s a nice thing to say, but

When they finally announced that the popup was to close

invariably meaningless. “It’s lovely, but there is no exam

he was inundated with offers. Almost two-dozen people

to be a chef,” he says. “People like titles and statuettes but

offered to finance the opening of his own restaurant. In

033


SERVICE

Koffmann’s at The Berkeley, London

the end, he would head to The Berkeley. “That was in 2010 and was

People are very stupid. We always make the same mistakes. I think if

supposed to be for three years. It’s 2016 and I’m still there, so you can

I had to start again tomorrow I would make the same mistakes,” he

see I haven’t learnt anything.”

says, but then with a flicker of good humour, “I’m getting grumpy

Koffmann’s restaurant, the aptly titled Koffmann’s, is really a labour

the highlight of my life. It was nice, but not a highlight. When the

one condition for taking on the project was that he ‘just gets to cook’.

restaurant is full and I see the same people coming back, that’s what I

This caveat not only means that he gets to spend time in the kitchen

enjoy. So I don’t like to go too deep. It’s the simple things.”

but that he has the freedom and time to coach and nurture new talent.

Koffmann may love the kitchen, but at 68 even he is weighing up what

He believes that his prominence comes with an obligation to pass on

the next step in his life and career will be. Firstly, before retirement he

his knowledge to a younger generation and he’s particularly proud of

has to stop telling journalists he finds life at home boring. It annoys his

those he has mentored. “I had a beautiful young man, Ben Murphy,

wife. That being said he stands by his earlier thought that it’s important

who opened a restaurant a few months ago in Woodford and he’s very

to keep busy and find a purpose.

successful. That’s lovely for me.” Behind that joy, there is something else lurking, however. Over

“In March my wife and I spent a month in Australia for the Melbourne Food Festival. I had ten days of cooking and it was wonderful. So I’m

the years the industry has evolved and one gets the impression that

wondering if we should retire there. Perhaps have a large garden and sell

Koffmann doesn’t rate some of the changes. “Now the food is not the

what we grow at the Saturday market. Or maybe a food truck: something

most important thing. You’ve got to have food, service and ambience in

original, not a burger. But who knows when this be, eh?”

equal measure. That’s the recipe for success but it does mean the food

And so, with dreams of Down Under lingering in the air and talk of

can be a little lost,” he says. There’s also the issue of having a public

retirement quickly fading back into oblivion, Koffmann departs for the

profile, something Koffmann, ‘couldn’t care less about’. When pressed

start of lunch service. Donning his apron again and rallying his team,

on what has been his greatest lesson he turns despondent.

something tells us it may take more than the promise of regular sun and

“You think we learn something? I don’t think we learn anything.

034

aren’t I? Let me put it this way, even getting three Michelin stars wasn’t

of love. Not interested in paperwork, recruiting or bottom lines, his

a large garden to take Koffmann out of his kitchen.


SERVICE

Czech Please Renowned bartender Alex Kratena on success, innovation and life after Artesian

Words: Harry McKinley

E

ven on a weeknight the lobby bar at The London

It was an audacious move that sent tremors through the

Edition has a healthy buzz. The music is upbeat, the

industry and set tongues wagging. And whilst we’re keen

post-work crowd boisterous and the cocktails suitably

to delve deeper into the bar’s success, Kratena’s work there

pithy. We’re sharing a Negroni with Alex Kratena, the

and his views on the hotel bar scene, his departure is the

Czech Republic born, London-based bartender and global

elephant in the room that needs acknowledging before we

force in mixology.

can steer the conversation backwards. So, what happened?

He’s fresh off a plane from Oslo and is due on another

“My team, Simone and my business partners came to a

early flight in the morning, not that the crippling schedule

point where the whole thing started to slow us down,” says

shows. Snapback on, drink in hand, he’s full of energy,

Kratena, “and we wanted to go faster. In order for that to

waving to the occasional familiar face and openly excited to

happen we had to take ourselves out of it. Looking back I

talk about his new projects.

feel that there couldn’t have been a better time. We were

Before that of course, there’s the matter of his old project. Formerly head bartender at Artesian at The

Luck, in all truth, had little do with it. Kratena’s talent

Langham London, Kratena led the bar to international

had secured him a reputation that opened doors and which

recognition. His creative approach and flair for the

would eventually nurture a desire in him to tackle projects

theatrical brought a new dimension to the notion of

over which he had full control. It was his strength of vision

the hotel bar and saw him become a figurehead for the

that defined Artesian and saw him credited with reinventing

bartending industry at large.

the hotel bar.

Looking back to 2015 it seemed that everything was going

036

lucky and we just nailed it.”

“I never personally said that Artesian reinvented the hotel

swimmingly for Kratena, as Artesian scooped the top spot

bar,” he says, with trademark modesty. “But I did feel that

on the list of World’s 50 Best Bars for the fourth consecutive

that room was meant to be a different breed of animal. I felt

year. Just a few hours before the ceremony, however,

that the classic hotel bar with its strict door policy and dress

Kratena and his creative partner Simone Caporale had

code was outdated and boring. It was one of the last places

handed in their notice. Nine of the bar staff would follow.

someone would actually want to drink. The key to Artesian’s


SERVICE

Aquavit, Sherry, Grapefruit and Dill Pollen

success was the element of fun. It was exciting,

there was a sense of purpose and that it never

schedules has changed. If someone comes in

experiential and we understood that no matter

felt gimmicky. When I started at Artesian a

on a Tuesday morning and wants to crack open

what you do at the table, with the food or with

place like that would have been a novelty,

a bottle of champagne because they’ve just

the drinks, it’s about how you make people feel.

but today it’s what people expect. London in

finished the most important project of their

People would come in with £20 and for an hour

particular redefined what hotel bars could be

life, provide that for them.”

they would feel like a millionaire.”

and what they can be.” It would be easy of course to wrap Artesian

He’s devoid of much of the self-aggrandizing

up as part of a collective bar movement or as

surprisingly little in actual drinks talk. It could

chatter that can sometimes flow from

part of a vanguard of hotel bars that sprouted

be that he’s simply bored of talking about

bartenders of his stature. He takes his trade

because of shifting guest tastes. Something,

spirits, but he openly likes to think of the big

seriously, by which we mean he takes the

ultimately, set Artesian apart. It was for

picture. Even when discussing cocktails the

enjoyment of others seriously. One thing he’s

many ‘the best’. Kratena is grateful for the

thrust is more on inspiration than specifics:

particularly attuned to is the changing nature

recognition. As he says it ‘changed his life’.

how a drink was inspired by an Aesop handwash

of the customer. He notes that not only do they

However he’s also quick to admit that it’s an

or how he famously designed much of the

want great quality and to be entertained, but

idea he doesn’t really subscribe to. For him the

glassware used at Artesian. John Jenkins no less.

they also expect value. “These days it’s not

best is always subjective, but he does have one

The breakage bill was apparently painful.

only about the flamboyancy on the surface,

tip: consistency.

everything needs to have a solid foundation,”

038

For a bartender noted for his captivating

Kratena’s commitment to the guest is clear.

“For me it’s simple things like keeping

concoctions, Kratena gets bogged down

“Albert Adriá told me once, if you want to be creative you need three things: money,

he says. “Artesian was over the top. We

track of your regulars, which comes through

money and money,” he jokes. “Not that I agree

wouldn’t do standard bottles of champagne,

consistent training. Print out pictures and

with that. I think you can achieve beauty and

we would do magnums. We had the most

put them on the noticeboard. If one waitress

creativity through restraint.”

dramatic interior. It was like a movie scene,

knows someone is vegan, why should it be so

where everything is a little too much in ‘real

difficult for the whole team to know? Artesian

project, we’re curious to find out what Kratena

life’ but looks great on camera. That was our

was always consistent: open everyday 11 until

thinks of the machinations of the hotel F&B

philosophy, but the important thing was that

late. The whole preconception about time and

industry, now that he’s had some time apart

Before moving on to discuss Kratena’s latest


SERVICE

Olive & Fennel liqueur

from it to reflect. He takes a perceptibly larger

brewers – it aims to provide insight and

disseminate information to the industry

inspiration with a purpose: to help the industry

it’s unlikely he’d go back to a similar setup.

and support worthwhile causes, P(OUR) is

operate more sustainably and encourage those

“Where I think a lot of hotels are failing is

Kratena’s ‘love project’.

within it to work better and work smarter.

that they cannot make timely decisions and

“With all of the changes in the industry we

With his name attached to one behemoth of

hotel companies have no idea how to operate

need to be responsible so we can maintain

a project, the next question on everyone’s lips

F&B. The ones who do it well – Mandarin

it long term. We want to expand everyone’s

of course is when we can expect to see Kratena

Oriental, Sydell and Four Seasons for example

knowledge and unite the industry. Alcohol

back behind the bar. Well, your guess is as good

– outsource. You have to think about the

and cocktails are only a smart part. People

as his. Whilst the plan for a bar is absolutely on

changing role of the hotel bar. A great bar

can be mad about coffee or mad about water.

the agenda it all depends on finding the right

is not just an incredible revenue stream,

Sometimes we forget to communicate and

space. This could be now or in five years time.

it’s something that puts the hotel on the

so we hope to establish a platform that gives

After all, what’s the rush? The one thing he

map. What would the Regent in Singapore

everyone a space to share what they do.”

knows for certain is that it won’t be another

be without Manhattan Bar? What would The

This ultimately manifests itself in an online

Artesian.

Langham be without Artesian? What would The

platform through which all of the information

With the ice melting at the bottom of our

Connaught be without Agostino Perrone at the

P(OUR) collects is offered free of charge in the

glasses and time getting on, the conversation

bar? Just more luxury hotels. So the function of

form of videos and podcasts. For an industry

winds down. As we bid goodbye any thoughts

the bar has been elevated for a reason. You’re

often dominated by corporate interests and

that Kratena might be headed for an early

not selling a £25 drink, you’re selling the

brand secrecy, it’s a pioneering and egalitarian

night before an early flight are quickly dashed,

brand and, actually, you’re selling the rooms.”

move.

as he walks away and sidles in beside a

Luckily for Kratena, bureaucracy and a

040

A not-for-profit project that aims to

gulp of his drink before weighing in. For a start,

Another strand is the P(OUR) symposium,

recently arrived group of friends. We’re not

complicated distribution of decision making

which launched this year in tandem with

surprised. As he said earlier, “For me, a bar

powers – he prefers a holocracy these days –

Cocktails Spirits Paris. A series of presentations

is where all of the beautiful things happen.

are issues he doesn’t have to navigate, with the

and seminars featuring a broad spectrum of

My night would rarely be as exciting if I just

launch of his own endeavour: P(OUR).

industry innovators – from chefs to artisan

headed home.”


Specials

“People want to find their own hidden gems, they want to be part of the local environment.” Karim Nielsen, CEO of Brøchner Hotels, on the philosophy behind new restaurant Väkst at SP34 Copenhagen.


WGS_ToTheTable-Ad copy.pdf

4

11/3/15

2:37 PM


STARTERS xxx

The Restaurant Amanemu Hotel, Shima

As the name suggests, The Restaurant at Amanemu Hotel shirks

microclimates ensure local suppliers are able to provide the resort with

complication and channels a distinctly Japanese appreciation for

an array of fruit and vegetables, with the prefecture previously known

refinement, simplicity and directness.

as the ‘breadbasket of the Imperial Court’. Locally reared cattle supply

Located in the Ise-Shima National Park – three hours by train from

Matsusaka Wagyu, a region-specific variety noted for its fine marbling.

Kyoto and four from Tokyo - it’s open only to guests of the resort’s 24

Head bartender Shinichi Hagimori works with drinks supplier Yamajin

suites and four two-bedroom villas. Despite the captive audience, The

Co. Ltd on the beverage offer, which combines Japanese craft beers with

Restaurant demonstrates a commitment to quality and concept.

locally inspired cocktails.

The Kerry Hill Architects-led design makes full use of the surrounding

Tableware is a mix of Japanese and Western brands. Plates from

scenery with large-scale windows framing pearl rafts and greenery.

Yamaguchi Ceramics and glassware from Toyo Sasaki sit alongside cutlery

Banquette seating affords the dining area a structural flow whilst a low-

from Sambonet, while the restaurant’s wooden tables are by Cassina.

key colour palette and natural materials ensure a coherent relationship

Echoing the ethos of understatement, practical but style conscious uniforms

between the restaurant space and the national park in which it sits.

come from Japanese brand M’s Collection.

Executive Chef Masanobu Inaba (also of the Conrad Tokyo) and his team of 12 oversee a menu that utilises locally grown produce and translates it into traditional Japanese cuisine with a twist. The region’s varied

www.aman.com/resorts/amanemu

IN A BITE Covers: 54 • Interior Design: Kerry Hill Architects • Operator: Amanresorts International • Executive Chef: Masanobu Inaba • Head Bartender: Shinichi Hagimori • Tableware: Yamaguchi Ceramics • Glassware: Toyo Sasaki • Cutlery: Sambonet • Suppliers: Yamajin Co. Ltd • Uniforms: M’s Collection

043


STARTERS xxx

Santoro Grace Santorini

Opened following a full renovation of boutique hotel Grace Santorini,

With interiors from Fifth Element Interiors (London) and SMK Interiors

Santoro has been billed as an ‘iconic view restaurant’, benefitting as it

(Greece), the restaurant sticks close to classicism, with crisp white alcoves

does from its clifftop position and an unobstructed outlook across the

and sea-blue detailing. Guests can opt for either intimate covered seating

Aegan Sea and island coastline.

or dine al fresco beside the hotel’s picture-perfect infinity pool.

Led by executive chef Spyros Agious, the 50-cover restaurant features a

The tableware continues Santoro’s white colour story, with plates and

menu influenced by the flavours and produce of the Cycladic islands and

dishes from Schönwald, glassware from Spiegelau and cutlery from La

Greek village cooking. Already an internationally established name, Agious

Tavola.

has previously held roles at The White Barn Inn, Le Gavroche and Gordon

Greek fashion label Zeus + Dione worked with Grace Santorini on the

Ramsay at Claridge’s, while in Greece he nabbed the Young Talented Chef

creation of bespoke staff uniforms, using local craftsmanship and tapping

award for 2016.

artisans across the country. The result conveys a simplicity and elegance

The restaurant’s name is derived from the name of the island and the Latin word for gold, ‘oro’, in homage to Santorini’s spectacular golden

that manages to speak to the restaurant’s customer whilst retaining the unostentatious charm of the hotel and its surroundings.

sunset, and this propensity for tradition, storytelling and romance is echoed in the menu and design.

www.gracehotels.com/santorini

IN A BITE Covers: 50 • Architecture: Divercity Architects, MplusM Architects • Operating Company: Grace Hotels (Libra Group) • Interior Design: Fifth Element Interiors, SMK Interiors • Tableware: Schönwald • Glassware: Spiegelau • Cutlery: La Tavola • Uniforms: Zeus + Dione

044


„Skyline“ - The Original!

GERMANY

“Rough!“

“Konkret!“ & “Vaganza“

“Capiz“

Visit us: Equiphotel Paris hall 7.2 booth H056 6.-10.11.2016

N O V E LT I E S

2 0 1 6 “Classy“ & “Reef“

W W W. Z I E H E R . C O M


STARTERS xxx

Oratorio Elma Arts Complex, Zichron Ya’akov

40 miles along the coast from Tel Aviv sits Elma Arts Complex, a member

the ingredients for his Mediterranean menu within a 20-mile radius of the

of Design Hotels and one of the region’s most ambitious creative hubs. An

site, whilst sommelier David Warner champions local wines, some of which

imposing example of post-war Brutalism set on the rim of Mount Carmel

originated from wineries within toasting distance of the hotel.

Ridge, it overlooks vast sloping forests and out across the Mediterranean Sea.

The 190-cover space features a sprawling bar, whilst restaurant seating features a mix of individual and communal tables, and counters with views

A near-forgotten architectural gem, its architect Ya’akov Rechter won

onto the central atrium. Contemporary artworks from the complex’s

the Israel Prize of Architecture for the building in 1971. After years in

collection dot most walls, while another is given over to a display of the

the wilderness, philanthropist and art collector Lily Elstein has seen the

comprehensive wine selection.

complex returned to its original majesty and transformed into a 95-room

Service is relaxed and unfussy, with cured meats sitting flush to wooden

luxury hotel, gallery space and 450-seat concert hall close to prime wine

boards and tin bowls holding homemade bread. Classic, functional cutlery

country. The renovation was overseen by Amnon Rechter and Ranni Ziss,

comes from WMF, glassware from Schott Zwiesel, while serving dishes are

whilst Baranowitz + Kronenberg were responsible for the design of the

provided by Schönwald.

hotel’s restaurant, Oratorio. Capitalising on its location, Oratorio head chef Boaz Dror sources all of

www.elma-hotel.com/oratorio-restaurant | www.designhotels.com

IN A BITE Owner: Lily Elstein • Operator: MusicArt • Collection: Design Hotels • Covers: 190 • Interior Design: Baranowitz + Kronenberg • Cutlery: WMF Tableware: Schönwald • Glassware: Schott Zwiesel

046


Passion for fine dining and professional buffet equipment.

Visit us online on hepp.de


STARTERS xxx

Photography: Nico Schaerer

Saltz Dolder Grand, Zurich

The new all-day dining restaurant at the Dolder Grand in Zurich, Saltz

and olive oil – to Middle Eastern and Thai - with a Lebanese mezze and

features a sharp, impactful design from Rolf Sachs Studio. Drawing

red tofu curry – the menu leapfrogs from continent to continent, pulling

inspiration from the Swiss landscape, the 280m2, 102-cover restaurant

varied inspirations together in a thoughtfully curated array of world tastes.

combines neon lights depicting mountain peaks, salt, rock and soft felt to

Plates and serving dishes are predominantly all-white, from Wedgwood’s

create artworks and custom furniture, which are paired with classic chair

Connaught range. Riedel glassware and cutlery from Sola and Victorinox

designs from Eero Saarinen and Jean Prouvé. Searing red and blue accents

complete the neat tabletop, with Craster providing the setup for buffet

are offset with neutrals and wood features prominently throughout. A

service.

500kg rock is suspended by red climbing rope in a creative flourish befitting a hotel that holds one of Switzerland’s largest private art collections. Chef à la carte Patrick Hetz has drawn inspiration from the design in his menu, mixing Swiss and international elements in confident combinations

Creating a distinctive visual vocabulary for Saltz, branding agency Source Associates AG designed the menus and developed the illustrative elements that grace the restaurant’s matchboxes, napkins and contact cards, with Italian company Maurel providing uniforms.

that stand apart from current Zurich fare. From Japanese and Italian – such as yellowfin tuna sashimi with bloody dock and yuzu, and burrata with basil

www.saltz.ch

IN A BITE Operator: Dolder Hotel AG • Architecture: Küchel Architects • Interior Design: Rolf Sachs Studio • Covers: 102 indoor, 80 terrace, 46 bar • Tableware: Wedgwood, Rochini • Glassware: Riedel • Cutlery: Sola, Victorinox • Buffet: Craster • Menus and logos: Source Associates AG • Uniforms: Maurel

048


Dining Culture. Pleasure. Experience. Everything for the perfect sense experience.

WMF Professional | www.wmf-professional.de


STARTERS xxx

Rofuto Restaurant and Bar Park Regis Hotel, Birmingham

The latest venture from restaurateur Des McDonald, Rofuto sits atop

The restaurant’s interior, designed by Tibbatts Abel, transitions from

the recently opened Park Regis Hotel, some 141ft in the sky and with

industrial and light in the restaurant area to a warmer, lounge-like space

360-degree views of the surrounding city skyline.

at the bar. UK supplier Goodfellows provided the restaurant with its table

With a Japanese concept spearheaded by McDonald, the space combines

and barwares, with menu design from local agency iDC.

a 120-cover restaurant and 100-cover bar. The food menu riffs off modern

Speaking of the opening and Birmingham’s growing hospitality industry,

Japanese staples and is divided into six sections: sushi and sashimi,

McDonald said, “I am delighted to be opening my first modern Japanese

tempura, robata grill, mains, sides and desserts. The bar features a bespoke

restaurant, with my partners at Park Regis Birmingham. I love rooftop

cocktail menu and a varied sake offering unique to the city. Koshua aged

spaces, having opened four successful restaurants on the roof of Selfridges

sake from Shiraki Brewery in central Japan will be on offer, along with

in London. I fell in love with the unparalleled dramatic views from the

sake from Takashimizu Brewery in the country’s north. Rofuto’s wine

16th floor, Birmingham is a great, vibrant city and I’m excited to become

offer showcases unusual varieties such as Pecorino, Gewürtztraminer and

part of its dynamic and diverse dining scene.”

Pinot Blanc in the whites and had a particular focus on low alcohol, low tannin reds.

www.rofuto.co.uk

IN A BITE Operator: Park Regis in conjunction with Des McDonald Restaurants • Investment: £3 million • Covers: 120 restaurant, 100 bar • Head Chef: Pedro Miranda • Interior Design: Tibbatts Abel • Menu Design: iDC • Key Drinks Brands: Kirin Ichiban Beer, Suntory Whisky, Takashimizu Sake

050


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Tiger believes that the products that we offer to the customers should be: • technologically advanced • elegantly designed • competitively priced This philosophy is reflected in the company motto: “NO COMPROMISE IN QUALITY”.

Tiger uses the highest quality materials in the market today to meet or exceed all European and American food safety standards. Tiger’s vision for the future is to bring value through quality in a larger range of table top product to become a reliable partner for the best hotels worldwide.

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Adv_Supper-Magazine_Trim-236x275mm_3.indd 1

14/06/2016 10:59:25


Paper Daisy Halcyon House, Cabarita Beach

Words: Dan F. Stapleton

H

alcyon House is an unusual proposition on the

says. “We also want the restaurant to be a good reflection

brash, family-centric Gold Coast: a luxurious yet

of region – something that we can be proud to show to

understated hotel with just 20 rooms and few kid-

visitors.”

friendly amenities. Owned by two Brisbane-based

Spiro, Devlin and the hotel owners all agreed that Paper

sisters and their husbands, the property, which opened in

Daisy would only succeed – both financially and creatively

2015, is reflective of the Gold Coast’s emerging reputation

– if it magnified the best aspects of its location. With

as a holiday destination for sophisticated older Australians.

the furniture in place, Spiro reached out to high-profile

Its restaurant, Paper Daisy, has quickly become the social

Brooklyn-based illustrator Wayne Pate, who contributed

heart not just of the hotel, but also of the town of Cabarita

a selection of sophisticated yet whimsical prints themed

Beach and the surrounding residential areas, which have

around leisure. She complemented these contemporary

seen an influx of wealth in recent years.

works with antique seascapes that were collected from

Designer Anna Spiro has created a chic, breezy atmosphere at Halcyon House by favouring shades of cream and sky blue

Using Spiro’s aesthetic as a starting point, Devlin has

and using plenty of soft fabrics and light wood throughout

created a menu that he hopes will appeal to hotel guests

the property. Paper Daisy is very much in keeping with

and area residents alike. Unsurprisingly, fish and seafood

this aesthetic: the 90-seat dining room has a touch of the

feature prominently, as does produce from Halcyon House’s

Hamptons about it, thanks in part to the input of New York-

organic garden, including native bush foods, greens

based interior decorators John Derian and Madeline Weinrib.

and herbs. Devlin is treading a middle path between the

The floor plan is compact enough to create a sense of

conservative menus found in traditional hotel restaurants

intimacy, while several sets of double doors, which open

and the eccentric pairings that dominate fine dining in

onto a wrap-around verandah with scattered tables and

2016: his meals are both comforting and engaging, with a

glimpses of the beachfront, provide seamless indoor/

combination of familiar and unusual ingredients. A recent

outdoor flow. The hotel bar sits within the restaurant,

menu item, Australian clams (known as pippies) served

encouraging guests to linger.

with semolina pasta, lemon myrtle and native pepper, got

At the helm is head chef Ben Devlin, who most recently worked as chef de cuisine at the well-regarded Esquire in

the balance just right. “We want to offer our guests an experience that is

Brisbane and was previously part of René Redzepi’s team at

shaped by the area that we are in,” Devlin explains, “so it

Noma in Copenhagen. Devlin says he was attracted to the

makes a lot of sense for the menu to be very seafood and

role because of the lack of comparable dining experiences

vegetable driven, and for us to put a focus on the quality

in the vicinity of Cabarita Beach. “With Paper Daisy, we are

and sustainability of the ingredients that we use.”

hoping to do something that will be unique to our area,” he

052

across Australia.

With such detailed design and decoration in the dining


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Salted raw fish with sour cream

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room – and robust flavours and ingredients on the plate – it makes

and honeycomb, alongside in-vogue items like coconut and chia with

sense that Devlin has chosen plain uniforms and aprons from Sydney

honey, mint and strawberries. A condensed version of the dinner menu

company Fraser & Hughes and unobtrusive tableware, including Riedel

is offered at lunchtime, and there are additional light options such as

glasses, “to minimise distractions.” The plates and bowls, made by Gold

green fried rice with prawns and a chilli and ginger pickle salad.

Coast ceramicist Marloe Morgan, are sturdy and generously sized, but the tones are muted and the finishes are often matte.

While Halcyon House has positioned itself in the top tier of Australian luxury accommodation through its room pricing, Paper Daisy is

The Paper Daisy menu changes seasonally, which Devlin says is for

affordable enough to appeal to diners who may be staying in less swish

the benefit of both staff and guests. “I have always had a preference to

accommodation nearby. For hotel guests, the restaurant offers 24-hour

be as flexible as possible with menus, in the hope that you will always

room service, and breakfast is included in the room rate.

have the best dishes and the best produce, and that you will keep your staff constantly learning and growing,” he says. But there are key continuative dishes, such as the catch of the

Early reviews of the food at Paper Daisy have been glowing, and occupancy rates at the new hotel are high. But Devlin and his team know that in order for the restaurant to succeed in the long term, it will need

day grilled in paper bark and served with onion, seaweed and beach

to attract and retain diners who live in nearby towns. For this, Devlin

plants – a wonderful evocation of Halcyon House’s beachfront setting.

hopes to create an atmosphere that is both upscale and inviting.

“Being part of a hotel has shown me the importance of both variety and

“Relaxed formality is a good way to think of the style we are hoping

consistency,” says Devlin. “We have frequently changing parts of the

to give,” he says. “We want to be a business that is minding the finer

menu to keep long-staying or repeat guests feeling that there is a new

details of our guest experience, and providing something that is of the

reason to dine with us, as well as consistent dishes that give people a

absolute highest quality from every aspect. But it is also important to

favourite to come back for.”

us that people feel warm and welcome. It is very much in the DNA of

Although Paper Daisy is busiest in the evening, it also serves breakfast and lunch, and these menus each have a distinct focus. Breakfast taps

Halcyon House to be friendly, accommodating and deliver intuitive service. The restaurant should be a reflection of that.”

in to Australia’s growing interest in wellness, offering wholesome takes on classic fare such as whole wheat crumpets with ricotta, roast fruit

www. halcyonhouse.com.au

IN A BITE Covers: 90 • Interior Design: Anna Spiro • Architecture: Virginia Kerridge • Owners: Elisa Bickle, Siobhan Bickle • Tableware: Marloe Morgan Ceramics • Supplier: Delta Hospitality Supplies • Glassware: Riedel • Uniforms: Fraser & Hughes • Cooking Equipment: Pujadas • Cooking Units: Waldorf • Refrigeration: Skope

054


Ocean Vila Vita Parc, Algarve

Words: Harry McKinley

P

ortugal’s Algarve was once seen as something of a mixed bag. Areas like Praia de Rocha, in the southern section of Portimao, garnered a reputation for hard partying, karaoke bars and cafs with plastic seats. But in recent years the

region has undergone an image overhaul internationally, putting its best foot forward as the home to idyllic villages, world-class resorts and as the country’s culinary heart. The Algarve now holds roughly half of Portugal’s Michelin stars.

Vila Vita Parc is one resort appealing to an affluent and sophisticated demographic, with its eight restaurants, six bars and underground wine cellar. Comprised of 170 rooms and villas over a sprawling 22,000m2 clifftop site, it embodies both old Portugal and new. Its most prestigious restaurant, the two Michelin star Ocean – one of only three two star restaurants in the country - has recently undergone a complete refurbishment, with a slick new design intended to better reflect and showcase the work of executive chef Hans Neuner. “Now was the time for a deep change,” says Vila Vita Parc’s managing director Kurt Gillig. “In the past the restaurant didn’t reflect the evolution and style of Hans. So when you have a contemporary style, the cutlery, tabletop, ornaments and

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Photography: Vasco Celio

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Photography: Paulo Barata

the overall aesthetic have to reflect that to create a full

in its ability to draw in guests, not just to sleep but to

experience. It’s a mirror of the work the team is doing.”

eat, it’s understandable why a hefty dose of importance

Having worked in three Michelin Star restaurants and

is levied upon the diamond in its dining crown. Ocean’s

having visited more than 50 around the world, Gillig

refurbishment isn’t simply a facelift but a complete

understands the constant attention required to firstly

reimaging of the space. There’s talk that the aim is an ever-

obtain, and then retain, the accolade. Stars aren’t simply

elusive third star. Mention that, however, and one gets the

a recognition of the quality and scope of the restaurant,

impression there’s a fear of jinxing the whole thing if it’s said aloud. Regardless of intention, the new-look restaurant is a

“It’s important for the hotel business and for the region to have Ocean here. It’s why it’s fully booked everyday.”

remarkable feat of design. Contemporary, assertive and imbued with a distinct personality, its impact is immediate and lasting. As much a part of the ‘decoration’ as the precious African coral that nestles in shelving along the main wall, the view isn’t so much a backdrop as a focal

058

they’re an important asset in appealing to visitors and

point. Floor-to-ceiling windows showcase the ocean from

gaining exposure to a global audience. “Gaining a second

which the restaurant derives it name: a captivating slice of

star put us on the radar of an important culinary customer

horizon compelling guests to pull up a seat and stare. These

and that has an impact, not just on the restaurant, but on

can be fully opened to allow the sea breeze to billow in.

the property and the destination,” he says. “It’s important

Despite the complexity and detail of the interior design,

for the hotel business and for the region to have Ocean here.

no agency was used and the refurbishment was an in-house

It’s why it’s fully booked everyday.”

endeavour.

Of the resort’s business, approximately 40% is derived

A short gangway leads guests into the restaurant,

from its F&B operations. So with such a large stake invested

hanging crystals from Murano lining either side. From


‘Odeon’ cutlery. One of our exclusive modern cutlery designs.

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Photography: Vasco Celio

Italian glass specialist Barovier & Toso – one of the oldest

the grandiose to the subtle, feels considered and purposeful

family businesses in the world – they’re intended to reflect

– even if the purpose is simply to add an additional visual

the omnipresent blue of the sea and sky, and the golden

dimension.

sands of the Algarve itself.

This balance is ultimately a reflection of chef Hans

In the restaurant proper, seating is widely dispersed, with

Neuner’s culinary approach. His tasting menu features

a 30-cover capacity. A 300-year old piece of solid oak forms

the now almost essential array of foams, broths, gels and artfully carved vegetables. But no element is the awkward

We grow much of our produce on site so I have control over what is going into my dishes

guest at the party. Every component is there for a reason and fully at home. “My philosophy is to bring the product to the plate in the most genuine way possible,” says Neuner. Nonetheless in their presentation each dish provides the all-important Instagram moment.

060

the chef’s table, accommodating six guests and overlooking

The menu itself is a complex one. Seasonal and local,

the kitchen.

many of the ingredients come from the resort’s own farm.

The crafted wooden flooring and silk carpets are from

“We grow much of our produce on site so I have control

Fashion for Floors; custom-designed tables, chairs and

over what is going into my dishes,” says Neuner. “This year

banquettes from Boffi Fratelli and Baxter and Maxalto; and

we will add a few thousand square metres to our garden and

large bronze circular ceiling lamps that hover just overhead

increase the number and diversity of products.”

from Henke.

The emphasis is on a lighter, more modern interpretation

The overall impression is dramatic but thoughtfully so.

of Portuguese cuisine. Langoustine is teamed with cabbage,

There’s little theatrics for theatrics’ sake. Each detail, from

and beef with grapefruit. Specially created serving dishes –


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MAIN COURSE

Photography: Vasco Celio

from JL Coquet and Fürstenberg – add an artful element. Sticks holding

proved a pull for staying and non-staying guests alike, with a roughly 50 /

crispy morsels jut from white porcelain fashioned into coral shapes;

50 split. With the refurbishment complete and a bold stage to call his own,

bulbous spherical bowls hold precisely placed seafood; and intricately

chef Hans Neuner admits that it takes a combination of factors to create

styled combinations of meat and veg sit in vast expanses of space on

a successful restaurant and deliver an experience that will impress. “It’s

oversized plates. Cutlery from Sambonet is religiously whisked away and

a perfect balance of good company, good produce, good products and

replaced between each course.

setting. At Ocean we bring all of these together – the unique atmosphere

With the resort holding one of the largest private collections on the

of the dining room with the Atlantic Ocean as a backdrop, where the

Iberian peninsula, wine is also a key element of the Ocean experience. A

kitchen and dining area are seamlessly integrated. The good company, of

specially created wine room at the restaurant holds 560 carefully selected

course, is up to the customers,” he says with a laugh.

vintages. Handpicked and paired by sommelier Nelson Marreiros, they

So what of that third star? Time will tell if the new look and menu will

are available by the glass thanks to the revolutionary Coravin extraction

deliver but Gillig still, coyly, has his eye on the prize. “Design is fine, but

method. Guests can enjoy rare vintages, such as the 2001 Château Mouton

it’s important that the restaurant delivers an experience. With Michelin

Rothschild (Bordeaux) or the Casa Ferreirinha Barca Velha (Douro), in

Stars comes attention and with 1.6million visitors to the Algarve every year,

glassware from Zalto and decanters from Riedel – should they decide that

I wouldn’t be doing my job if I wasn’t interested in tapping that potential.”

‘by the glass’ just won’t cut it. Thanks to its creativity, cuisine and reputation Ocean has ultimately

www.restauranteocean.com

IN A BITE Covers: 30 • Operator: Vila Vita Hotels • Executive Chef: Hans Neuner • Tableware: JL Coquet, Fürstenberg • Glassware: Zalto, Riedel • Cutlery: Sambonet • Decorative Crystal: Barovier & Toso • Flooring and Carpets: Fashion for Floors • Tables and Chairs: Boffi Fratelli, Baxter and Maxalto • Lighting: Henke

062


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DIA_13785 T10 BF (236x275mm).indd 1

19/11/2015 14:13


Väkst SP34 Copenhagen

Words: Lauren Ho Photography: Chris Tonnesen

F

or all of its virtues as a destination – not least

right path. “We have Denmark’s largest port wine

the hoopla surrounding its swathe of Michelin

selection, so Copenhageners are coming here to use the

star restaurants – Copenhagen’s hotel offerings,

bar, which is a really small step in the right direction,”

in contrast, are curiously not up to scratch. Sure,

says Nielsen.

there is the usual sprinkling of bog-standard chains

successfully sustaining a restaurant – in a city not shy

grande dame, but individual, affordable boutique

of culinary offerings and where, it is still unusual to

accommodation is woefully lacking and, unlike in other

eat at a hotel restaurant – is a whole new ball game.

international cities, hanging out at a hotel for leisure is

So after a couple of attempts, one of which included a

virtually unheard of.

Spanish eatery, Nielsen wisely sought reinforcement

One game changer though, is on a mission to bring

from Cofoco, Copenhagen’s leading restaurant group.

the city’s hospitality landscape up to par with its global

“Cofoco has a really good development department,” he

counterparts. “We are very static in the Danish hotel

justifies. “They are very good at bringing people in and

industry,” says Karim Nielsen, CEO of Brøchner Hotels.

they never have empty restaurants.” For Cofoco, it is a

“But I am trying to change this.” Indeed, when Hotel

collaboration that has been a long time coming: “For a

SP34 opened its doors in 2014, it marked a significant

while now, we have been looking for a project to do in

shift for the industry. Located in the city’s thrumming

cooperation with Brøchner Hotels,” says Christian Lytje,

Latin Quarter, surrounded by colourful boutiques and

CEO of Cofoco. “When we got the chance, we didn’t

lively cafés, the 118-room property with its easy-going

hesitate for a moment. The experience Brøchner wishes

lobby bar and slick, design-led aesthetics, adopts the

to provide for its guests is very much in line with how

current trend for the modern traveller seeking a unique,

we think at Cofoco.”

local experience. “Our main objective is to create a place

064

Enticing revellers into a bar is one thing, but

and of course there is d’Angleterre, the city’s legendary

Widely credited with transforming the city’s local

both for locals and guests,” explains Nielsen. “People

dining scene, Cofoco’s modus operandi is to provide

want to find their own hidden gems, they want to be

high quality food at affordable prices in distinct,

part of the local environment.”

design-led venues. “10-15 years ago, the Danish dining

And while the lobby isn’t heaving with hipsters

scene did not really offer anything in the middle price

tapping away at the obligatory laptop just yet, the

range,” explains Lytje. “We decided ‘value for money’

buzzing bar is evidence enough that Nielsen is on the

had to be integrated in all of our projects.” Now with 14


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Dishes: Brรถste, Serax Glassware: Libbey (Duratuff) Cutlery: Kay Bojeson

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restaurants – that run the gamut from Italian to Peruvian

rich, creamy mussel sauce that accompanies the spaghetti-

– under its belt, the brand, riding on the success of its New

like strands of squid makes for a rounded balance,

Nordic restaurant Höst, decided a sister venue at Hotel SP34

emphasising Cofoco’s ethos to cater to everyone’s appetite.

would be the answer to tempt both locals and visitors alike.

“The reason I started at Cofoco, was because I wanted to

Called Väkst - the Danish word for ‘growth’ – the new

make food for everybody,” affirms Christensen, who comes

concept is based on summer garden party vibes and fresh,

from a Michelin star background. “Cofoco makes excellent

rustic Nordic dishes where vegetables take centre stage.

food accessible to everyone at a fair price.”

This is further underlined by the interior, where charming

Undoubtedly, not straying from its winning formula

outdoor string lights illuminate a space that, furnished

has once again proved fruitful, as judging by the constant

with an abundance of verdant pot plants, unexpectedly

flow of diners, it seems Väkst is another victory for the

features a greenhouse at its heart. “It was about designing

restaurant group. Whether this has impacted the hospitality

a restaurant that creates an atmosphere that compliments

landscape and the local mentality towards hotel restaurants

and enhances the experience of the food we serve,” explains

is still to be seen, but for now, the collaboration between

Lytje.

Brøchner Hotels and Cofoco was a shrewd move. “We are

In the kitchen, chef Jonas Christensen, who is also behind

working hard on it,” says Nielsen emphatically. “Although

the food at Höst, serves up a lighter, less challenging

we are a little bit alone on the scene because there are

menu than at its sister restaurant, but still with the same

no new hotels that are doing nice bars or restaurants.”

fresh, clean Nordic taste. With vegetables as the main

But with a number of new properties in the pipeline and

focus, expect meat dishes such as the pork cheeks to be the

with plans to continue driving the F&B arm of the brand,

sideshow to a substantial plate of greens. “For us, it’s the

Nielsen has at least kick started his one-man mission to up

vegetable that has to be the main and then the meat is like

Copenhagen’s hospitality game. Watch this space.

the side,” notes Christensen. “Vegetables are good for you. And then we use a kilo of butter,” he jokes. Certainly, the

www.hostvakst.dk/vakst

IN A BITE Covers: 90 • Executive Chef: Jonas Christensen • Head Bartender: Henriette Thorsen • Architect: Cofoco with Genbyg • Tableware: Bröste, Serax • Glassware: Libbey, Luigi Bormioli • Cutlery: Kay Bojeson

066


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14.06.16 09:26


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Restaurant Le Cinq Codet Hotel Le Cinq Codet, Paris

Words: Harry McKinley

O

n the corner of a quiet street in the 7th arrondissement sits Le Cinq Codet. From the outside it is attractive but unassuming; the Art Deco façade offering only a hint of the design-led hotel that occupies the building.

Of course the neighbourhood is known as one of the most prestigious in

the city, and indeed France. Government ministries, foreign embassies and art institutions are clustered within its quaint streets and the general pace is more languid than in the traffic-heavy, tourist-rich districts that lie within walking distance. Yet Le Cinq Codet is not a grand hotel, in the traditional sense. The ornate Baroque buildings of Les Invalides sitting at the top of the street only serve to emphasize its relative modernity and the comparative austerity of the exterior. An interior from Jean-Philippe Nuel (Agence Nuel), is equally contemporary, not just in style but in approach. Recognising that guests just don’t engage with spaces in as narrow or linear a way as they used to, multifunction is key. It’s something boutiques often do better than larger hotels. Limited space means the need to develop areas that can operate on multiple levels and cater to a range of needs. The restaurant at Le Cinq Codet is a prime example. It’s not simply a restaurant; it’s a bar, a lounge, a terrace, a place to grab breakfast, a place to grab coffee and a place to fire up a laptop and work through the day’s emails. For guests it is the public heart of the hotel: a social, work and relaxation space. “The F&B spaces have been designed as a global space of living,” says Jean-Philippe Nuel. “In the same room, several typologies of spaces answer to different but complementary F&B needs.” The 30-cover interior features classic seating areas for dinner, relaxed chairs by a nifty digital ‘fireplace’, bar stools and a breakfast room - or ‘show kitchen’ - with a central island from which the chef may liaise with guests during morning service. A central courtyard with outdoor tables and chairs, and cushioned communal seating holds another 30.

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Visually the restaurant draws from the same inspiration as the rest of

diners. “Our patio is popular for its intimacy and discretion and the

the hotel. It’s undeniably of the present, but notes of Art Deco linger

restaurant is a perfect place for informal business,” says Pawlik. “So we

throughout in the use of angular lines; in the curve of the chairs; and in

try to attract outside customers from both the 7th district and also other

the motifs that adorn carpets and cushions.

parts of the capital. We organise many business meals, cocktail parties,

“The premises itself really informed the look and feel,” says Nuel. “The hotel was a rehabilitation project in a building full of technical

seminars and press conferences. We also offer evening cocktails and workshops every first Thursday of the month.”

constraints. We had to separate the public areas into two parts, which

The new concise, one page dinner menu from executive chef Ricardo

is why the lobby is completely separated from the F&B spaces. So we

Lucio keeps it relatively straightforward. A selection of pastas, sandwiches

particularly worked on the patio as a natural link between the lobby

and salads sit alongside hotel staples such as a burger and cheeseboard.

and the F&B area. Visually we thought about the building - industrial

A catch of the day is one nod towards seasonality, while for slightly more

Thirties - but also its surroundings: the secluded, residential and

substantial dining there’s steak, foie gras and Baltic wild smoked salmon.

exclusive 7th arrondissement. These two characteristics guided

Petrossian caviar comes with a glass of Grey Goose vodka.

the design, which was directly inspired by loft spaces and then the combination of art and industrial.” Although less than two years old, the hotel has seen a steady ramping up of its F&B offer, with the introduction of a new seasonal menu and a

While the menu makes use of artisan producers and features a few rare products, dinner is ultimately a relaxed occasion. Tables are simply set with stiff white napkins, Rosenthal glassware and Sambonet cutlery. Like many large cities, hotel F&B in Paris is increasingly diversifying

focus on attracting a diverse audience of non-staying guest. “Breakfast

and the boutique sector is an especially creative one. From the avant

represents 20% of the turnover of the space,” says Elodie Pawlik,

garde to the traditional, there’s a wealth of options available to both

commercial manager at the hotel. “But the general restaurant and bar

locals and travellers. Through its combination of design, location and

is 80%. The F&B offer is very important to Le Cinq Codet and we’ve

product, Le Cinq Codet manages to maintain an offer than appeals,

partnered with some big names in gastronomy, such as Griffon, Le

and with its seasonal menu is now able to continue to provide a sense

Bourdonnec, Petrossian and Ladurée.”

of ‘newness’ and sustain the momentum generated from its much-

Not relying on guests to simply come to them, the hotel is taking

vaunted launch.

steps to pull customers through the doors by developing events and an overall persona that appeals as much to corporate clients as casual

www.le5codet.com

IN A BITE Covers: 30 inside, 30 outside • Interior Design: Agence Nuel • Executive Chef: Ricardo Lucio • Head Bartender: Carl Barre • Glassware: Rosenthal • Cutlery: Sambonet

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maldonsalt.co.uk

Supper Magazine.indd 1

16/06/2016 09:24


Giardino Palazzo Versace, Dubai

Words: Juliet Kinsman

I

n 1942, Don Loper created the now-iconic Martinique Banana Leaf wallpaper for the Beverly Hills Hotel and at this 215-room hotel and its two wings of condos, the House of Versace channels the same tropical aesthetic. In many ways Giardino is the restaurant

equivalent of Jennifer Lopez’s iconic plunging dress from the brand. The Italian fashion label is rarely associated with minimalism or

restraint when it comes to colour, pattern or personality. And when it comes to destinations that display an appetite for ‘more is more’ interiors and conventional gold-plated interpretations of luxury, Dubai is front and centre. But for those whose tastes veer towards simple, low-key and humble the bold jade-and-white wallcovering - the same as the shirts and ties worn by the servers – of the maximalist Giardino may prove surprisingly appealing. Dubai Creek, where the hotel is situated, is an area of an everdeveloping city that is primarily still under construction. It’s yet to flourish into the picturesque, leafy, saltwater-side neighbourhood it is forecasted to become, with Palazzo Versace’s own landscaped enclave at the centre of what’s labelled the Dubai Culture Village – with plans for a mixed-use district of Arabic architecture and traditional-style souks. The huge 16th-century-inspired ‘palazzo’ is a many-floored behemoth amid dual carriageways. Walk into the hotel’s soothing main lobby though and it’s a refined display of craftsmanship. Above, three tons of Czech crystals sparkle from a chandelier, and below, a million and a half mosaic tiles were hand-placed to create the magnificent signature Medusa flooring. Handcrafted mosaics

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MAIN COURSE

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MAIN COURSE

throughout the hotel are designed in conjunction with the renowned

be described in similar terms. Executive chef Fabrice Lasnon prioritises

Italian mosaic company Fantini Mosaici.

freshness and flavour and, despite the staggering array, also a

Amid a forest of buildings and cranes, Giardino at Palazzo Versace is a

simplicity of execution. The menu features a mix of Italian, Levant and

sanctuary of fresh potted plants and frond-emblazoned interiors; what

international favourites. From glassware to plates and cutlery, tableware

Dubai lacks at the moment is green spaces, and it is just what diners

is a collaboration between Versace and Rosenthal.

may crave. As the Italian name suggests, the ground-floor restaurant is

It is becoming more and more popular for hotel restaurants to claim

themed around a garden. It’s an uplifting scene full of style and easy-

their concept is based on a food market-style layout, but hosting a

on-the-eye tableaux. Planters and dinky palm trees allow the space to

substantial buffet, as in the case of the Friday brunch, isn’t a new

be versatile and adjustable, depending on the size of bookings that filter

idea. What makes it imaginative and relevant is displaying the fresh

through. For most of the year, bar three months when it’s simply too hot

ingredients artistically and enticingly, and offering interactive cooked-

and humid, the front windows are folded back entirely so that the space

to-order experiences. Diners enjoy having their chosen dishes prepped

feels airy and Giardino spills out to the family-friendly pool area.

and served in front of them, with what used to be behind the scenes now

House of Versace has matched placemats and candleholders to the

part of the theatre of eating out. Lunch is an à la carte choice of Italian

bold fabric wall panels. The latter interior-design feature is especially

classics – burrata, heirloom tomatoes, Mediterranean sea bass, fregola

welcome during the boisterous brunches. Brunch on Fridays in Dubai is

pasta – but for dinner, the action is brought to the foreground. Sushi

an institution and the ex-pat community often indulges in long over the

and sashimi are conjured in front of guests, with Arabic grills and Asian

top, all day lunches. DJs spin dance music tracks and the atmosphere

night market delights such as Pecking duck whipped up to order.

is spirited. Thankfully interiors here absorb some of the sounds of that

As Donatella Versace says: “I think glamour all the time. I wake up in

conviviality without detracting from the atmosphere. Attempt to spend

the morning, and I’m already thinking glamour.” No doubt the designer

time at other five-star rendezvous when a brunch is in full swing and,

would want to provide a thrill to the eye morning, noon and night and

however upscale the address, it can be deafening.

Giardino is Versace all over. Quite literally.

Since Versace as a brand is often associated with flamboyance, indulgence and ostentation, it seems fitting that the food here could

www.palazzoversace.ae

IN A BITE Developer: Enshaa Group – joint venture • Covers: 222 indoors, 72 outdoors • Executive Chef: Fabrice Lasnon • Interior Design: Donatella Versace • Tableware: Rosenthal meets Versace • Uniforms: House of Versace

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SIPPING

“As mixology has become more established, credible, creative and widespread, so the number of signature cocktails has increased.� Angus Winchester on the modern cocktails set to stand the test of time.


COCKTAILS

Asia The Donovan Bar Brown’s Hotel, London

The work of Damian Kwiatkowski and Riccardo Vecchio, Asia is part of the recently unveiled ‘Around the World’ cocktail menu, featuring seven cocktails for seven continents. The menu is presented via individual scented cards, intended to draw the guest to their desired cocktail through their ‘instinctive senses’. Asia is served in one of three different coloured traditional Chinese cups - all of which hold dried flowers in their lids – and the colour of the cup will be determined by the bartender according to what qualities radiate from the drinker. The black cup will be served to those who exude power; yellow will be given to cheerful guests; or red for those who give emanate energy and passion. Star of Bombay Gin is shaken with Antolia cherry bitters, a touch of violet liqueur and a dash of homemade oolong tea syrup. This mix is stirred with grapefruit zest. www.roccofortehotels.com


DOUBLE AGED F O R E X T R A S M O OT H N E S S

The quality of the article should be its greatest achievement. JOHN DEWAR; FOUNDER OF DEWAR’S & SONS, ESTD. 1846.

A crafted blend made of over 40 grain and malt whiskies and winning more than 500 awards. The smooth and heather honeyed taste of Dewar’s is iconic.

Enjoy Responsibly ©DEWAR’S, WHITE LABEL, ITS TRADE DRESS, TRUE SCOTCH, THE CELTIC DEVICE AND THE JOHN DEWAR SIGNATURE ARE TRADEMARKS.


COCKTAILS

The Fallen Garden Hendricks Bar Four Seasons Dubai at Jumeirah Beach

A reimagined take on the classic British club, Hendricks Bar fuses European and Middle Eastern influences in a rich and dramatic space. With a focus on gin cocktails and speciality whiskies, a ‘gin and tonic’ trolley circles the cigar bar, featuring classic staples and a range of homemade infusions. Devised by Bar Manager Marco Corallo, the signature Fallen Garden features Tanqueray No. TEN, homemade rose liqueur, clarified pink grapefruit juice, homemade lavender bitters and yuzu. The blend is shaken, double strained, served over a single block of ice and garnished with dried rosebuds. www.fourseasons.com/dubaijb


SPIRIT ENHANCER


COCKTAILS

Be Healthy Be Bop Bar Radisson Blu Alcron, Prague

Located off Prague’s popular Wenceslas Square, the Art Deco Be Bop Bar forms part of the lobby of the Radisson Blu Alcron and has become a signature spot for creative mixology in the city. From the golf-centric ‘Be on the Green’ to the quintessentially Czech ‘Be Bohemian’ – made with local herbal liqueur Bechervoka – the cocktail menu flits between wit, theatricality and classicism. The ‘Be Healthy’ strikes a balance between all three, conveying its medicinal theme through tongue in cheek presentation. Made with bourbon, Campari, honey and cranberry juice, it comes with a syringe of sweet cherry juice to complete. www.radissonblu.com


FIT FOR A KING

HONOURED WITH A ROYAL WARRANT The distillery at Brackla was founded in 1812 by Captain William Fraser. As its calibre gained acclaim in Glasgow, Edinburgh and London, King William IV, having developed a taste for fine liquor, granted Brackla whisky a Royal Warrant in 1833 – the first time a whisky had been so honoured. ENJOY OUR SINGLE MALT RESPONSIBLY. ROYAL BRACKLA AND ITS TRADE DRESS ARE TRADEMARKS.


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DRINKS

Restaurant Bar Blakes Hotel, London

Words: Harry McKinley

B

lakes is where a stylised version of the East meets West London. Credited as one of the first boutique hotels in the world, it is synonymous with designer and hotelier Anouska Hempel, a celebrity clientele and its eclectic design.

With 44 rooms, and a private mews house with its own separate

entrance, the hotel sits somewhere in the middle of the boutique category - neither particularly large or particularly small. Nonetheless, for its scale its F&B offer has always punched above its weight. A popular Kensington and Chelsea hangout spot, its bar and restaurant have long provided a base for local creative types, well-heeled ‘yummy mummies’ and familiar-faced businessmen to eat, drink and mingle. Following a refurbishment, the hotel’s F&B spaces have been completely reimagined with a lower lounge bar and club, and a new restaurant and cocktail bar on entry level, expanded into the space previously occupied by suite 007. As with the other F&B spaces, the design of the restaurant bar was undertaken by Hempel herself. Staying true to expectation the interior is rich but refined. Dark walls provide a base for gold detailing, high stools congregate around a marble bar and Asian detailing presents itself in plant pots holding tall stretches of splayed green leaves that jostle for attention. Zalto glasses hang in open display and a shelved back bar is suspended just above the preparation counter. The restaurant as a whole can hold 60-covers but the bar by itself is a

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much more intimate space, with room for just

little bit, to make it more relaxed. We don’t expect

eight people on stools, a corner booth and a few

anyone to feel as though they have to dress in a

standard Biedermeier tables hugging the wall.

£5000 suit to walk into Blakes anymore.”

Windows look out onto the outdoor patio with its black-framed gazebo. “We’re able to contain the size and volume so

Another F&B evolution is the relationship between the restaurant bar and the rooms. The alcohol minibar has been ‘deleted’, with rooms

quality can be managed, from the welcome and

now only holding a stock of water and soft

service to the drinks,” says Daniele Pampagnin,

drinks. If guests fancy a tipple they simply ring

director of operations.

down to the bar and a cocktail will be hurried

At the moment the hotel’s business is split

their way, with the same preparation time as if

roughly down the middle between beds and F&B,

they were perched facing the barman. “It’s about

and yet when it comes to the restaurant bar

telling one story throughout the hotel,” says

its audience is almost entirely outside guests.

Pampagnin. “After calling, the guest will receive

“Perhaps 95%,” says Pampagnin. “We’ve got

their drink within five or ten minutes - same

hotel guests of course, but Blakes has always

speed and service. We can do it because it’s a

been a lifestyle destination. I think we have the

fairly small hotel, but it heightens that element

balance right. Sometimes a massive hotel won’t

of bespoke and personal attention to the guest.”

concentrate on F&B because it’s driven by room

The cocktail menu, devised by bar manager

revenue, but for the guest the offer is just a

Giuliano Bini, is equally narrative driven. Each

room. Then there are hotels driven by F&B, but

mix comes with own tale and the menu is

if I’m a hotel guest I don’t want to step into

Anouska Hempel inspired with its plethora of

somewhere that is too busy and too crowded.

Asian ingredients and flavours. The Chai Tea

Here, thanks to the garden, the bar and the roof

Martini was created by Bini for a glamorous

terrace, we have a perfect equilibrium between

Indian wedding and immediately made it onto

the amount of hotel guests you can have in the

the menu during development. It features saffron

house and people from outside.”

gin, Junmai Daiginjo Akashi Tea, chai tea and

With such a predominant proportion of

rice syrup; apple and lemon juice; egg white and

guests non-staying, part of the logic of the new

Peychaud’s Bitters. The Direct, meanwhile, was

restaurant bar is not just a shift in design but a

fashioned in honour of Pampagnin and features

shift in ambience. The space is intended to be

Campari in ode to his Italian heritage, along

welcoming and a little less formal in approach

with Monkey 47 Sloe Gin, Chartreuse Green,

than may have been expected from the hotel. For

maraschino and Fernet-Branca. “We couldn’t

Pampagnin this means people feeling free to make

very well call it the Director of Operations, so we

themselves at home. “No one is going to ask you

settled on The Direct,” says Bini.

to leave if you want to come in jeans,” he says.

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“Blakes has always been seen as dark, sexy and

www.blakeshotels.com

quite mysterious. I think we’re trying to change a

www.designhotels.com


DRINKS

IN A BITE Covers: 60 • Head Bartender: Giuliano Bini • Head Chef: Peter Del Campo • Interior Design: Anouska Hempel • Owner: Navid Mirtorabi • Operator: Blakes Management • Tableware: Wonky Ware • Glassware: Zalto • Suppliers: Passione Vino

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A Modern Classic


DRINKS

We explore what it takes to design a cocktail that will stand the test of time and highlight seven modern classics destined for longevity.

Words: Angus Winchester

O

ne of the best parts of my career is creating training modules and presentations to roll out at bar shows and bartender education sessions around the world. I’m generally given a free hand, or am trusted to come

up with interesting and educational topics. I want to help inspire bartenders to be creative and raise their standards, or to teach them valid practical lessons. I’ve found the key to this is to research heavily, to choose wisely and to have a structure that creates a flow and a credible dialogue. I never intend my words to be slavishly followed and am pleased when attendees form arguments or raise points that I hadn’t considered. I love it when a discussion creates ripples throughout the world of bartending, or at very least the attendees. I bring this up because I recently gave a talk entitled The Seven Wonders of the Modern Cocktail World, in which I attempted to show that in the time I have been involved with the world of cocktails and bartending there have been only seven drinks that have been created and are destined to be (or already are) cocktails that all bartenders will need to know in the future. Inevitably, it ruffled some feathers and started some rather intense conversations.


My theory was this: 90 years ago the list of ‘must know’ or ‘classic’ cocktails was very different to 40 years ago, and in turn is different to now. At the turn of the 20th century, drinks like Clover Clubs, Cobblers, Sazeracs and Silver Fizzes were the bartenders’ staples. Skip forward 50 years and Mojitos, Margaritas, Mai Tais and Bloody Mary’s were on everyone’s lips. Yet which drinks have been created in the last 25 years that will stand the test of time (I chose the beginning of my bartending career as a realistic start date) and be added to the roll-call of Espresso Martini

great cocktails? As mixology has become more established, credible, creative and widespread, so the number of signature cocktails has increased, and surely there are many great new cocktails out there. Or are there? The key - other than being a dedicated and well-travelled bartender who has drunk a fair amount of new cocktails - was a series of criteria I used to decide what made for a Modern Classic. Firstly the drink had to have a practical side: it must use ingredients that are relatively common globally or can be substituted fairly easily. Although you might love your new drink that uses Australian finger Limes, I fear you may find it hard for other bartenders around the globe to recreate it. Secondly, it must also work with any decent brand within a category and not be based on just one, utilising the specific flavour notes that exist in singular product. You might be keen to

“As mixology has become more established, credible, creative and widespread, so the number of signature cocktails has increased” harmonize with the delicate hints of peach in Nolet’s Gin, but if a bar doesn’t stock Nolet’s and the drink doesn’t work without it, then it won’t be adopted widely. Thirdly, of a practical nature, it must have a name that is easy to say and ‘call’ in a bar, and is amusing or memorable. There are very few classic cocktails that have more than four words in their name, and remember, brevity is the soul of wit. Try to stay away from the modern mixological malady of puns, as well as any part of the human body that is normally covered with underwear. If in doubt, think about shouting it in a bar when the music suddenly cuts out, or getting your grandfather to order it for you. Fourthly, it must taste great, often meaning that the exact proportions can be varied successfully to accommodate a range of palates. This generally means that stirred drinks are out. We, as alcoholics with bartending problems, may adore ‘see throughs’ but your average punter struggles with them, whereas any drink with ‘citrus and sweetener’ can be modified and tinkered with to suit most tastes.

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Fifthly (and this one may cause some furrowed brows)


DRINKS

Basil Smash

modern classics can also come to pass due to innovation

Thus, with those ideas in mind, I give you the Seven

– either in new or irregular combinations of flavour

Wonders of the World:

combinations and ingredients or in new techniques being used to create those flavours. Salvatore Calabrese’s Breakfast Martini with marmalade as a key ingredient, or Dick Bradsell’s espresso-based beauty show this perfectly, yet still conform to rule one. Sixthly, it must be popular, by which I mean not just drinkers must love it but other bartenders must love it and

The The The The The The The

Bramble Cosmopolitan Tommy’s Margarita Penicillin Green Basil Smash Espresso Martini Breakfast Martini

- although they did not create it - are willing to showcase it, and thus it starts to show up around the world on

I chose seven because I honestly believe that there are

cocktail menus. Too many drinks have been lost by

fewer than 10 drinks that have been invented in the last 25

bartenders keeping recipes secret, and it is a feather in any

years that will stand the test of time and fulfil my outlined

bartender’s cap when colleagues in other bars like a drink

criteria.

so much they drop their pride and ask for the recipe. This leads to the final criterion I used to select the

One of the downsides of modern bartending is new bartenders desperately clinging to the idea that totally new

drinks: they must inspire bartenders to copy or tweak

drinks are the key to guest satisfaction. I have sampled

the recipe in much the same way that the great classics

thousands of ‘new’ drinks that, tasty though they may be,

have done with twisted Negronis, Manhattans and Old

are relatively forgettable and, according to the ‘market’,

Fashioneds.

are unworthy of the title Modern Classic.

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Spiced Gin Atta Boy, Darnley’s View Gin


DRINKS

The Ginaissance Gin is thriving, but as more and more producers enter the market, there’s confusion as to what gin should and can be. So where is the category heading and what does this mean for hotel bars? Words: Dominic Roskrow

W

hen is a gin not a gin? Alas it doesn’t

concoctions ranging from relatively well produced Disney

command a slick, ready-made comedy

style gins, to the more outlandish representatives, which

punchline. There are plenty that think it

are the spirits equivalent of garish Japanese animé. They’re

strikes at the heart of a dilemma for the gin

all gin, the judges were told, but not necessarily as you

category. As more and more distillers enter the market, there is a growing body of people who feel that the category

know it. So what to make of it all? Is this growing wave of widely

needs to be more clearly defined. It presents a challenge

flavoured gins a good thing or a bad thing? The good news

because, on the one hand, gin lovers welcome the plethora

for gin is that it’s making waves. It’s innovative, exciting,

of quality craft gins that are creating diversity and regional

experimental and just a little bit out of control. The bad

characteristics to rival that of single malt whisky. On the

news for gin is that it’s making waves. It’s innovative,

other, there are fears that the gin category is losing its

exciting, experimental and just a little bit out of control.

identity in a tsunami of new releases that are not gin at all, but flavoured vodka and pimped up grain neutral spirits. The issue started to raise its head a couple of years ago,

Fast forward to 2016, and the issue of when is a gin not a gin is as potent as ever. Gins are springing up on a weekly basis, made by a slew of new distilleries across

when bemused and befuddled spirits competition judges

the world. They’re bringing a range of styles and flavours

were confronted by scores of gin samples that stretched

that is seemingly endless, all of which is potentially good

their taste buds to the limit. In broad terms, the spirits

for the gin category, but there is a caveat. Some producers

divided into two distinctive camps. In the blue corner were

are playing footloose and fancy free with the rules, and

the gin equivalents of the dinner jacket and black tie crowd:

are giving cause for concern as they produce spirits drinks

clean, crisp, classical, sharp and sassy - the ice and a slice

that have been dismissed as flavoured vodkas and spirit

brigade with juniper to the fore.In the red corner were a

infusions, and not gin at all.

motley crew of cartoon characters, bright and colourful

Patrick Zuidam, who produces a premium gin among a


DRINKS

huge array of other spirit and liqueur products at his Dutch

beneficial but only if they are there to guide and are made

distillery - and is a judge on various international awards

with the consumer in mind,“ she says. “They shouldn’t

panels - is clearly fed up. “It’s getting ridiculous,” he says.

hamper creativity or innovation.”

“Judging in international gin competitions is becoming a

Carl Reevey, of Bruichladdich, which makes The Botanist

difficult task. I think that some producers go overboard in

Gin, agrees. “Gin is being repositioned as a premium drink

their creativity or in looking for their niche in the market

not least because it is relatively expensive to make,” he

and they create drinks that have very little relevance to

says. “Let’s face it, vodka is boring. Lots of folk now drink

gins. A lot of gins lack balance, harmony, and the taste of

gin, and mostly with tonic, ice and a slice. That sounds a

juniper.

bit dull, but it seems to be true. Then there are loads of

“An award winning gin is about balance, harmony, crisp

aspirational gin drinks, from cocktails through foraged

clear distillation, clean stills and learning how to distil

serves to the glorious Martini. It’s all very interesting and

before bottling products. There is a level of frustration that

sometimes exciting, but these are still minority sports. It’s

comes from judging poorly made products marketed as

a bit like cricket: great fun if you know what you are doing.”

gins.” So how did this chasm between classical gin and modern

Does all of this lead to the conclusion that with its broad array of flavours, gin can offer the drinker the same sort of

gin come about? It stems from the loose definitions of gin

regional flavour diversity that single malt whisky offers?

within the European Union, and from the different rules

The industry is split.

governing gin production in different territories.

Gillrays Steakhouse & Bar is housed within the London

In Europe there are three definitions of gin.

Marriott Hotel County Hall and has offered more than 100

Standard Gin requires that the gin must be made with

gins in the past, but that number now stands at 40, with the

a base spirit distilled to 96% ABV. There is a requirement

emphasis on high quality. Head bar tender Sam Luis Mitchell says that we are witnessing a modern day craze for gin. “Anyone and

“Anyone and everyone is drinking gin now... the more choice, the more people are willing to try them”

everyone is drinking gin now,” he says. “A few months ago a gin distiller told me there was a new gin on the market every week. I would say the more choice, the more people are willing to try them. With gin such as Tarquin’s making a robust London dry then a juniper heavy navy strength, or Cotswolds using lavender and black peppercorn, and

for a predominantly juniper-flavoured taste but you can

Half Hitch using hay, tea and bergamot, there are lots of

add any botanicals you want and they can be infused - not

different ‘flavours’. I find when I do gin tasting guests

redistilled in to the mix. So they are effectively added. This

always say they never knew there were so many different

is a very loose definition.

flavours of gin.

To use this term Distilled Gin at least some of the

botanical. The rest is up to the distiller. Going back to the

though you may still add other botanicals and flavourings,

18th century when one in three houses were making gin,

as well as colourings.

they were putting all sorts in it so I think it’s good to have

Finally London Dry Gin is based on a 96% base spirit and all the botanicals must be distilled in a proper still. According to gin expert David T Smith of Summer Fruit

flexibility as a nod to the past, plus it brings creativity and innovation to the end product.” At London’s Mandarin Oriental, bar manager Sebastian

Cup, this is where the problem lies. “These definitions are

Löffler doesn’t see comparisons with single malt whisky as

not fit for purpose,” he says. “They talk about a flavour

valid, but is still excited by the category.

predominantly based on juniper, but what does that mean?

“The regulations outside of Plymouth Gin and the style

You and I might take it to mean 90% or 95% of the flavour,

of London Dry are pretty lax. Gin can be, and is, made all

but clearly others do not and there lies the problem. Where

over the world. In fact, some of the most popular gins are

is the line? And how do you police it? It’s very subjective.

made outside the United Kingdom. About 10 to 15 years ago

Even a more established and mainstream gin such as

when vodka was at its peak, the same happened with that

Beefeater has a distinctive citrusy taste.”

category; an abundance of flavours, variations and styles.

The industry is split as to whether a tightening of

But today that market has more or less gone. I don’t see

definitions would be a good thing or not. It’s a bit like the

the gin market ever reaching the levels of the single malt

current handball rule in football: the subjective nature of

industry, at least not in reference to flavour profiles or

interpretation is undesirable, but the alternatives could be a

geographical appellations.

whole lot worse. Emma Hooper, brand manager at Darnley’s View Gin, sums up the issue well. “We think some rules could be

092

“Gin is just neutral spirit with juniper as the main

botanicals have been included in the pot still distillation,

“I don’t necessarily see the loose definitions as a bad thing, as mentioned above, it gives an opportunity for distillers to create different styles across the globe within


The Botanist Gin, Bruichladdich


DRINKS

Darnley’s Delight, Darnley’s View Gin

the category. I believe that it is the ‘reasonableness’ of the

drinks now,” he says. “Theatre is a must when making

distiller as well as the merchant to inform the guest what

cocktails or serving a gin and tonic. In Gillray’s we have a

they are choosing. If it is not a gin per se, it should not be

cocktail called Two Penny Whist and we use Langleys No8,

listed or sold as such.”

Kamm & Sons and Carpano Antica Formula. We smoke it

What both bar managers agree on is that while the

produces a strong smell of juniper in the room and a visual

serve it with, as well as the ‘theatre’ of bespoke service.

effect of the smoke coming out of the bottle. The idea was

“This is very important,” says Löffler. “You cannot make a

to make the room smell like an old gin distillery if the drink

good gin and tonic with bad ingredients, but you can make

was ordered.”

a bad G&T with good ingredients. Ice is important in any

So is the gin craze here to stay, and will it thrive despite

drink that requires it because it helps maintain temperature

the potential hurdles? The consensus from those on the

and dilution. The mixer is equally important, as when it

front line is that it will go from strength to strength and, in

comes to tonic in particular, there is an abundance of not-

the long term, a range of quality gins will survive and thrive.

so-great options. In our bar, we use only Fever-Tree. For me, this is a very good tonic that really helps bring out the botanicals of most gins. “As for the garnish, this is very personal. Wedge, peel,

Desmond Payn, master distiller for Beefeater Gin - part of Pernod Ricard - sums it up. “Experimentation and innovation continue to be the cornerstone of everything we do,” he says. “The global

citrus, herb, it all depends on the gin. I like the garnishes to

‘Ginaissance’ continues to excite the category and its effect

bring out more of the botanicals or to contrast them, this

on sales will be long lasting, with an underlying interest in

is when the garnish works the best – when it adds to the

new, high end gins. With recent performances in mind we

drink.”

seen no reason to predict anything other than continued

Mitchell agrees. “People are expecting more from their

094

with juniper, coriander seeds and pour on the table. This

quality of the gin is paramount, so are the ingredients you

positive growth over the next 12 months.”


A new dining experience

nudeglass nudeglass.com

simple is beautiful


P(OUR) Symposium 19 – 20 June, Paris

Photography: Addie Chinn

E

stablished this year by leading figures of the bartending

founder of The Coffeewoman, an interdisciplinary project

world Alex Kratena, Ryan Chetiyawardana, Jim Meehan,

blending digital and real life conversations to advance the

Simone Caporale, Monica Berg, Joerg Meyer and Xavier

role of female coffee professionals worldwide. She spoke on

Padovan, P(OUR) is a not-for-profit foundation devoted

the importance of sourcing, selection and sustainability.

to exploring new ideas, sharing information and exchanging inspiration.

Bar operator, educator and author of The PDT Cocktail Book, Jim Meehan also delivered a rousing address on ‘serving

An annual symposium brings together bartenders, baristas,

ourselves and each other’, in which he focused on the need

sommeliers, brewers, winemakers, distillers and drinks

for bartenders to adopt a healthy mental approach to an

manufacturers, as well as people of other disciplines, to

industry that can sometimes prove detrimental to those who

discuss the past, present and future of drink.

work within it.

The inaugural symposium was this year organized by Liquid Liquid and held in conjunction with Cocktails Spirits Paris.

Day two saw Ben Reade and Sashana Souza Zanella of the Edinburgh food studio take to the stage. On the agenda:

Across two days industry professionals descended on

entrepreneurship, working collaboratively and the way in

Maison Rouge for a series of talks and discussions highlighting

which we interact with food and the culture that surrounds

innovations in the food and drinks industry. Between

it. “It’s important to understand the processes of food and

presentations, pioneering product and produce brands – from

drink,” said Reade. “Not just the end result but the stages

coffee and tea to beer and spirits - introduced their wares,

of how it’s made. It helps to form a much deeper connection

offering samples to an eager crowd.

with what’s on the plate or in the glass.”

Opening proceedings, illustrator Alec Doherty spoke on

Speaking on the Power of Intention, Corrado Bogni, head

the importance of inventive product design, talking through

concierge of The Connaught hotel pulled from his years of

his work with London-based artisan brewers Partizan. “For

experience, telling a few stories of how he’s had to go ‘above

a long time art and branding was used to sell a substandard

and beyond’ to deliver for a guest. The moral ultimately being

product,” he said, “but with the rise of artisan labels and craft

that commitment and enthusiasm are as important for an

beers, packaging can still be used as a thoughtful medium to

established name as for a beginner.

say something authentic about the brand.”

Further speakers on day two included chef Douglas

Following a poignant tribute to Dick Bradsell, bartender

McMaster, who spoke on the ‘waste free’ movement and

Nick Strangeway discussed the cocktail revolution and the

how to operate with sustainability at the heart; and founder

evolution of the industry. Scrawling the words in black marker

of Crucial Detail, Martin Kastner who discussed his product

pen across waiting flip boards so there could be no mistake,

innovations in the field of fine dining.

he pushed home the notion that ‘modern bartenders are

Closing out the symposium, award-winning bartender

boring’. Too bogged down in the industry and insular, he

Monica Berg announced that proceeds from the event would

suggested that modern bartenders, “find something other

be used to support communities in the Amazon, helping them

than bartending to be interested in and talk about. Having a

to use local ingredients to develop marketable and sustainable

broad variety of interests and references will aid in creativity.”

products.

Other key speakers on day one included Tracy Ging, who currently leads the Volcafe Genuine Origin project and is co-

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www.pourdrink.org


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DRINKS

A New Family Jameson

Jameson has unveiled a new structure to its family of Irish whiskeys, including introducing a new super-premium series and revitalising the brand identity. Made up of a range of heritage whiskeys, the Makers Series and the Deconstructed Series, the portfolio is intended to showcase the brand’s heritage whilst positioning it as a modern, youthful label. Speaking at the global unveiling at Jameson’s distillery in Midleton, Co. Cork, Global Brand Director Dan Lunberg said, “What has driven that success of Jameson is the brand’s approachability. Its personality is open and inviting and its taste very accessible: smooth and versatile. It has a price point which is in the premium end but, again, accessible. A few years ago we could see that we were getting to a tipping point. We have a group of loyal consumers, but the more we talked to them the more we realised they wanted to know more about Jameson and were curious to try new things and experiment. So we decided to offer a range that gives them the story of the past. Let’s have the makers tell their stories.” The Maker’s Series is composed of three distinct whiskeys, each celebrating the people behind Jameson and their crafts. The Distiller’s Safe celebrates the role of Jameson’s Head Distiller, Brian Nation, and is a showcase of the original copper pot still distillate. The Cooper’s Croze highlights the role of Jameson’s Head Cooper, Ger Buckley, and explores the influence that maturation in casks has on whiskey. Finally the Blender’s Dog celebrates the role of Jameson Head Blender, Billy Leighton and is a tribute to the fine art of blending. “If you take the Jameson consumer base, it’s probably people that haven’t been whiskey drinkers but have found a way in and begun to appreciate the category,” says Leighton. “Jameson is a very good entry point to appreciate Irish whiskey. But as well as wanting to know how it’s made, customers want to know a bit more about the craft and even the personalities behind it. That’s what the Maker’s Series was created to showcase.” As for the best way to use Blender’s Dog, Leighton suggests adopting a purist’s approach and opting simply for a splash of water. Speaking of Jameson’s continued popularity with bartenders, Lunberg notes, “Bartenders adopted a brand in Jameson. We were lucky enough that they decided we were a friend. Now is our opportunity to return the favour by giving them products that they can do interesting things with. So if you take something like Black Barrel, it’s designed to be a strong cocktail whiskey. It has a flavour profile that allows bartenders to make the kind of cocktails they want. In the end we’re always trying to build something that will last and that will be as timeless as we can make it. We have a incredible brand that carries so much equity and so many stories, and we’re now trying to take that brand and put those ideas in a very different world, which is super-premium whisky.”

www.jamesonwhiskey.com

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DRINKS

Photography courtesy of Hennessy

Arik Levy

Hennessy 8 Artist and industrial designer Arik Levy has once again teamed with Hennessy on a limited edition case and bottle design to mark 250-years of the brand. Having previously designed the Hennessy X.O. Methusalem in 2012, he this time turns his hand to the commemorative Hennessy 8 cognac, devising a 60kg carafe and real oak case. Fashioned from hand-blown Baccarat crystal, the eight rings of the bottle represent eight generations of master blenders and are inspired by the tasting flacons of old. A copper silk ribbon is applied by hand and sealed with an H. The surrounding oak case, with copper inlay, uses many

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of the raw materials associated with cognac making and each of the 25 wooden layers corresponds to 10 years of Henessy’s history. Taking three years to develop, Levy’s design is available internationally in limited quantities. The blend itself is an equally complicated creation, featuring a fusion of eight eau-de-vie, seven of which were created by seventh generation master blender Yann Fillioux and one by Renaud Fillioux, his nephew to whom he handed the master blender baton this year. www.henessy.com


Ron_Barcelo_Supper_final.indd 1

04/04/2016 13:05


DRINKS

Crown Jewel Beefeater

A favourite with bartenders, the previously discontinued Beefeater Crown Jewel has been revived for the on-trade market. With an intense aromatic palate and unequalled strength (50% ABV), it is produced in small batches and available in limited quantities. In addition to Beefeater’s nine classic botanicals it features the addition of grapefruit for a crisp note of citrus. To promote the spirit’s popular place within mixology, Beefeater have unveiled a series of signature cocktails from leading bartenders, such as the Sceptre Martini from Alessandro Palazzi of the Dukes Bar, at Dukes Hotel London, and Sebastian Hamilton-Mudge, Beefeater Global Brand Ambassador. Crown Jewel is already available to guests at the likes of Claridge’s and W London. Beefeater’s Master Distiller Desmond Payne comments: “Launched before the super premium gin boom, Beefeater Crown Jewel was ahead of its time. It is hugely popular within circles of gin connoisseurs for good reason: the velvety smooth gin shows superior, refined spirit notes with a delicate citrus aroma and – most significantly – a higher ABV of 50% that helps flavours hold together. These attributes won Beefeater Crown Jewel legions of fans before its discontinuation and we hope to once again excite gin enthusiasts with the limited edition relaunch.” www.beefeaterdistillery.com

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DRINKS

Verdejo

Marqués de Cáceres Marqués de Cáceres Verdejo comes from the winery’s own vineyards in Rueda, Spain. The 2015 vintage reveals the distinctive character of a magnificent terroir of moderate yields and leaves a mark with a very personal style. A charming bouquet of mineral notes, herbs, and citrus fruits leads on to deliciously balanced and vibrant flavours of green apples, grapefruit and passionfruit in the mouth to finish, with good length and a refreshing aftertaste. Serve at 6-8°C. www.marquesdecaceres.com

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“There is a slightly subversive and assertive quality in serving an unbranded spirit. It is a statement of confidence in your choices.� Joe Doucet on the subversive nature of glass decanters.


Fairmont Olympic Hotel, Seattle Photography: Hubert Kang

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Coffee Culture From boutique brands like The Ace to vast global players such as the Fairmont Group, hotels throughout the world are impassioned by coffee. We look at the brands leading the charge when it comes to a cup of Joe.

Words: Emilee Jane Tombs

I

n 2014 a hospitality study by UCC Coffee UK & Ireland found that over

inspired experiences, H.C. Valentine is committed to finding farmers

a third of customers were unhappy with the coffee provided to them

who honour sustainable growing practices in order to produce the finest

by their hotel. The study showed that the UK customer specifically,

taste characteristics for their growing regions.

had become much more discerning when it came to their morning

The brand works with organizations such as World Coffee Research

brew, and that 30% of those surveyed said that a poor hotel coffee

to protect and grow the supply chain of high-quality Arabica coffees

offering would deter them from staying at the hotel again. It was a

through collaborative agricultural research and development, which

study that would have global implications and be used internationally

is something that has become increasingly important to consumers.

as a sign of sea change in the sector. Perhaps this reflects that the coffee offer has historically been seen as a by-product of the room rate, but fast-forward to 2016 and it’s clear that - much like the quality of food - consumers care more about their caffeine fix than ever before.

“It is exciting to partner with Fairmont,” H.C. Valentine’s product development manager David Strahl said when the partnership was first announced. “It seemed like a natural fit for us to offer our coffees on a large-scale level that has never been done before, and we are honoured to share a

Guests today are interested in provenance. They not only want to

unique proprietary coffee blend, featuring specialty-grade beans that

know where the beans used to make their espresso come from, but also

are sight-roasted by origin in small batches, and then blended to develop

how they arrived, where they were roasted and what type of machine

deeply complex and intense flavour profiles, with Fairmont guests.”

has been employed to brew them. This is something that has resonated

Since 2014 many more hotel brands have joined the throng, going

with hotels both major and boutique; they’ve become granular and

ever further to provide the perfect cup to their customers and even

there’s a coffee revolution afoot.

non-guests, as in the case of fashionable boutiques Ace. The hipster

One of the first companies to react to the survey results was Fairmont,

bolthole of choice has built separate cafes into many of their sites,

who announced its one-of-a-kind artisanal partnership with H.C.

partnering individually with local roasters in order to give a more

Valentine Coffee Company, an award-winning micro-roasting company

authentic, localised coffee experience.

based in Birmingham, Alabama.

In London’s Shoreditch the Bulldog Edition at the Ace is located

“Our goal is to deliver a premium experience with a personalised

between the lobby and the restaurant and has become a popular drop-

touch. Offering an exclusive micro-roasting brew ensures that promise

in spot for East London’s creative set, who turn up daily to work from

is honoured in each batch of fresh coffee brewed on-property,” says

corner tables - a steady flow of flat whites from venerated East End

Brett Patterson, vice president of food & beverage at Fairmont.

roaster Square Mile Coffee gracing their makeshift desks.

“H.C. Valentine Coffee Company is the right choice for our hotels

“Our hotels are very much orientated to the community,” says

because it provides guests with a quality artisanal coffee experience

Khuong Phan, food and beverage specialist for the brand. “As often

that will enhance their stay.”

as possible we like to partner with local artisans to offer our guests

Aligning with Fairmont’s emphasis on sustainability and locally

thoughtful and localised experiences.”

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Parcafé at The Dorchester, London

Square Mile, founded by World Barista Champion

“[Sparrow] were able to design a custom blend

serves East London roaster Alchemy’s speciality

James Hoffmann and World Cup Tasters

that matched well with many of our menu

blends on a state of the art La Marzocco FB/80.

Champion Anette Moldvaer, makes sense at the

items, including our dry-aged steak. That was

“The world’s top luxury hotels set a new

Ace, not only because of their proximity to the

a sign that they took their craft seriously and

standard in everything they do,” says Rosanna

hotel, but because a partnership of this kind

further solidified our reason for partnering

Fishbourne, area director of communications

allows the Ace to provide professional-level

with them.”

for Dorchester Collection, “and there is a

barista training courtesy of the relationship between the two brands. “The Square Mile team provide us with much more than just an extremely high-quality

108

Some hotels even encourage field trips to the

certain level of expectation from guests and

roasting sites in order to fully involve the staff

neighbourhood clients. The Dorchester’s

in the process and encourage them to become

employees are not simply staff, they are

coffee aficionados themselves.

craftsman in their fields, and as such we take

product,” says Phan, “their team provides our

“We are currently looking to get our

care to have them trained by some of the

baristas a great deal of care and training and it’s

teams out to the West Loop roastery,” says

capital’s finest baristas. Parcafé is in the enviable

been great collaborating with them.”

Schwimmer, “we want them to see how the

position of offering visitors the coffee making

In the US the Ace group of hotels works with

custom blends are created and we ensure that

precision expected from a specialist coffee shop,

Stumptown Coffee Roasters, who they say bring

our staff are involved in monthly training

combined with the excellent hospitality ethic

near-obsessive detail to the process of making

that covers everything from making the

for which The Dorchester is renowned.”

coffee, which is something that their customers

perfect espresso, servicing the equipment and

are increasingly seeking out.

speciality brewing techniques.”

With coffee at it most popular and with so many speciality vendors popping up it’s

In Chicago the James Hotel has chosen to

This movement isn’t limited to the boutique

important that hotels align themselves with

work with Sparrow, an independent roaster

hotel groups; increasingly large chains around

a quality product that is distinctive and not

that only provides coffee to a small coterie of

the world are realising that their customers

available everywhere. Partnership such as

forward-thinking restaurants in the city.

want more from their morning shot, and are

this enhances a guest’s experience, caters

“We were looking for a coffee that offered

taking measures to ensure their needs are met.

to a growing customer interest in product

more than just your morning jolt,” says Jacob

In 2014 London’s Dorchester completed

and provenance, and allows the hotel to say

Schwimmer, food and beverage director

substantial renovation works that included

something about its own identity and brand

at The James Hotel Chicago.

the addition of a standalone café, Parcafé, that

through the brands it associates with.


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DRINKS

Rethinking the Minibar:

DIY Cocktails The hotel minibar: that lurking presence testing the balance between cravings, cost and convenience. Like a siren song it lures guests towards vices difficult to resist. Since the minibar’s creation in 1974 at the Hong Kong Hilton, this song has been hypnotising weary travelers into paying $12 for a can of nuts under the pretense of ‘ease.’ For the modern traveler, however, the siren song is increasingly falling on deaf ears. Minibars were envisioned as a convenience for guests but if that is no longer enough to drive sales, then what will keep this long-standing concept relevant?

Words: Emily Elyse Miller

A

new wave of in-room innovators are reimagining the possibilities and adapting to the changing minibar mindset. By anticipating the needs, personality and feelings of guests they’re winning the market in this detail-obsessed space

through nostalgic, creative and comforting experiences. Darren Pound, the Chief Experience Officer at The Camby

in Scottsdale, Arizona is exploring new ways to further this customisation by creating bespoke minibar personalities. “We’re looking into providing guests with a fully stocked fridge full of snacks that would be included in the cost of our premium rooms,” he says. “Guests will choose between a selection of minibar ‘personas’, each with a set menu that perfectly suits their diet, personality, or mood.”

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Le Grand Pigalle, Paris

xxx 111


Ace Hotel, New Orleans Photography: Simon Watson


DRINKS

“Arguably guests want to be charmed and feel as though they’ve stumbled upon a lesser-known discovery”

Grand Pigalle Paris The Grand Pigalle hotel in the 9th-arrondissement of Paris provides bottled cocktails ready and waiting for guests with hand-written labels reminiscent of Alice in Wonderland. One of the hotel’s founders, Pierre-Charles Cros, tells us, “We wanted to extend our concept of ‘bed & beverage’ to the rooms by offering home-made cocktails in every minibar. It was a quite a challenge creating pre-made cocktails. We worked on specific recipes and

Ace Hotel New Orleans

developed delicious bottled cocktails that allow our guests to start

Can the entire personality of a room be defined by the minibar?

or end the evening in their room.” The concept was created by

By thinking of this concept as an opportunity, a stale space can be

a trio of hotel owners who also launched Experimental Cocktail

brought to life. The pay-per-what-you-use cocktail menu in the

Club, one of the most lauded cocktail groups in Paris. The

new Ace Hotel New Orleans does just that, with 90% of guests

carefully designed bottles are only available to hotel guests.

purchasing items from the minibar – a colourful Smeg fridge across 245 rooms. “All of our minibars have robust offerings, including many local and regional products. The minibar at Ace New Orleans’ is

Arguably guests want to be charmed and feel as though they’ve stumbled upon a lesser-known discovery. It is perhaps why there’s a 50% minibar usage rate across the hotel’s 37 rooms. The exclusivity of the bottled Negroni (Campari, red Vermouth,

the only one in the group set up like an in-room cocktail bar,

gin Citadelle ) and Le Meilleur (Cognac Pierre Ferrand, fino cherry

complete with a cocktail shaker, cutting board, glassware, cocktail

Valdespino, Verjus, sugar syrup) is Instagram fuel and an enticing

recipe guide and even mini-sized bitters,” says Olivier Rassinoux,

purchase for cocktail lovers.

the brand’s global F&B director. “The most popular is the Sazerac, a true New Orleans original. All of the recipes in the mixing guide

Four Seasons Singapore

are classics.”

Loyalty is engendered by properties that demonstrate attention

The concept is designed to embrace the local drinking culture

to detail. The DIY Singapore Sling and Martini cocktail kits at

and playfully encourage guests to join in. As Rassinoux says, “New

the 250-room Four Seasons Singapore are a thoughtful amenity

Orleans celebrates the cocktail like no other city in the world, and

helping to achieve a 60% rate of usage from guests. “We wanted

in homage of that spirit we wanted to offer an amenity that would

to create a differentiated experience for our guests when they

allow guests to become their own craft bartenders. An added

check-in at our hotel in the evening. With these DIY kits, they

bonus: you can leave the hotel with your drink in hand — as

have the opportunity to unwind and have some fun. At the

long as it’s in a plastic cup — since New Orleans allows alcoholic

same time, our guests will learn about the innovative cocktail

beverages to be consumed on its sidewalks.” The fridge includes

program we have at our bar, One-Ninety,” says director of F&B

East Imperial Burma Tonic (created to replicate flavour profiles

and culinary operations, Mr. Giovanni Speciale. “Guests love

from the 19th century; this is what people were mixing with gin

the innovative amenities, especially since it incorporates local

and lime to prevent scurvy back in the day), Big Easy Bucha (a

elements and gives them a hands-on experience.”

locally produced kombucha), a variety of local micro brew beers, a selection of bourbons in different sizes, and whole fresh lemons

Hotel Saint. Cecilia

and limes, putting the process of mixology back into the hands of

Hotel Saint Cecilia in Austin, Texas uses local and exclusive

the guest.

options in their minibar to perk interest. Bar manager, Nan Sireno tells us, “We have offered the Bloody Mary bar as in-room option since the original opening team conceptualised it in 2009. It has evolved over the past couple years into a more expansive offering, with locally sourced produce and quail eggs that we pickle inhouse. A full Bloody Mary and Mimosa bar are now also offered as part of our special monthly Soul Sunday Brunches. The concept is meant to quench the soul after a late night out or to relish the day before going back to reality.” A popular amenity attracting notable guests during the South by Southwest festival, a tray for two to four guests is $75 and equals 4-6 generous pours of vodka and plenty of accoutrements.

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EVENT CALENDAR

114

Tales of the Cocktail

41 Madison

Annual Hotel Conference

20th – 24th July 2016

27th – 30th September 2016

12th - 13th October 2016

New Orleans

New York

Manchester

To The Table MEA

The Restaurant Show

EquipHotel

6th – 8th September 2016

3rd – 5th October 2016

6th – 10th November 2016

Abu Dhabi

London

Paris

The Hotel Show

To The Table Asia

HX

17th – 19th September 2016

5th – 7th October 2016

13th – 15th November 2016

Dubai

Taipei

New York

Design Junction

Bar Convent Berlin

Sleep

22nd - 25th September 2016

11th – 12th October 2016

22nd - 23rd November 2016

London

Berlin

London


41Mad Supper Mag Sept 040416_Layout 1 4/4/16 12:36 PM Page 1

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SIDES

Photography: Richard Pereira

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NRA 2016

To The Table MEA

Chicago 21-24 May 2016

Abu Dhabi 6-8 September 2016

NRA 2016 saw members of the foodservice sector convene in Chicago

To The Table MEA, the premier food and beverage decision makers

to experience the latest products and industry.

forum, will return this September for another year of high quality

Restaurant owners, product exhibitors and decision makers met

product exhibitions, meetings, panels and receptions. Taking place at

to network, view the latest gastronomy innovations and learn of

Jumeirah at Etihad Towers, the event will see high profile decision

the changing nature of the business. Highlights included displays of

makers from across the industry converge on the luxury hotel for two

technological advancements, including a quick and efficient sushi cutter

days of networking, buying and selling.

and roller from Suzumo International; an automated, robotic fry cook

This year, the forum will feature discussions on subjects including

designed and manufactured by Middleby, Pitco and Rethink Robotics;

innovation in restaurant design, which elements come together to form

and a vending machine style salad dispenser from Casabots, that allows

the best restaurants in the MEA market, and the value of human and

guests to customise their salads with minimal effort.

capital relationships in F&B success.

Also on show were a series of forward thinking food and drink

Oliver Jackson, Executive Chef at Jumeirah at Etihad Towers, Abu

products, such as Pappami’s flavoured edible plates and cutlery, Ariake

Dhabi, will give a demonstration and tour of Pearls by Michael Caines,

USA’s grown up ramen range, organic healthy ice cream from Brio! Ice

the host venue’s restaurant.

Cream, and edible bugs as marketing tools from Terminix. Speakers and

Speakers include: James Wierzelewski, Corporate Vice President

panel guests including Restaurant: Impossible’s Chef Robert Irvine and

Food & Beverage Operations, Rotana; Stuart Nielsen, Vice President

Bar Rescue’s Jon Taffer gave insight into the broadcast dimension of

Food & Beverage MEAI, FRHI Hotels & Resorts; Naim Maadad, CEO,

the industry, whilst The Fast Casual Industry Council Meeting brought

Gates Hospitality; and Stefan Breg, Director of Food & Beverage EMEA,

together key executives serving up the most disruptive and profitable

Starwood Hotels & Resorts.

concepts in the growing fast casual segment.

Suppliers will be given the opportunity to showcase their products to

This year’s show was attended by representatives from all 50 of the

some of the most important buyers in the industry and given the chance

top 50 restaurants in the world, 98 of the top 100 restaurant brands,

to network over a series of carefully curated events. This year, Supper

and was ultimately the most attended show in the event’s history.

continues its partnership with the event as global media partner.

show.restaurant.org

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Studio 16 lobby space design Photography: Studio Jean-Philippe Nuel

EquipHotel 6 – 10 November, Paris

A

t a June press conference in Paris the organising team and panel of

as the centre of a new welcome format, taking over from the reception desk

experts and influencers laid out the plan for this year’s EquipHotel,

as guests’ first point of contact.

the leading France-based trade show for HORECA professionals.

Designer Sylvie Amar, responsible for Studio 16’s Glass Gallery, took a

With 46million tourist visitors to Paris, of which 42% are

product perspective, highlighting how glassware designers should begin

international, exhibition director Corinne Menegaux was quick to emphasise

thinking about their products as more than something to drink from, and

the importance of the hospitality sector to the city and highlight the growing

as important tools for bartenders.

number of international exhibitors expected at the EquipHotel event in 2016. This year, the event has been staged in such a way as to create a clear purchase pathway, facilitating an organised flow of visitors and making it easier for buyers to purchase during the show. Also discussed was Studio 16. For the first time, a team of experts (architects, designers and establishment owners) have taken over more than 3,000m2 of space, split vertically across multiple levels, to create a unique establishment, offering insight into new trends and their applications, as

Overall Studio 16 will showcase concepts for outdoor, lobby, room and F&B spaces. The press conference also served to highlight several key hotel projects in the city, with attendees visiting recently opened boutique Le Grand Pigalle; Mama Shelter, the Philippe Starck hotel championing egalitarian design; and Maison Souquet, a 5-star renovation project in the Pigalle district. Last year’s EquipHotel was attended by 111,000 trade visitors, with this year expected to exceed this amount.

well as showcasing how these are levers for revenue development. Billed as an ‘experience as well as a concept’, Studio 16 features the likes

www.equiphotel.com

of Jean-Philippe Nuel, who has developed an innovative lobby concept. Speaking at the conference, Nuel explained how the hotel bar could be used

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Supper readers can use the below code for free entry to the event: IUK01


OUR TABLETOP IS OVER THE TOP

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Photography: Gili Shani

Bar Convent Berlin

Ambiente

Berlin 11-12 October 2016

Frankfurt 10-14 February, 2017

Held for the first time in 2007, Bar Convent Berlin has grown from 16

At a London press conference Ambiente, the global consumer goods

exhibitors to approximately 280, and will welcome around 10,000 trade

platform, has announced elements of its 2017 programme, including

visitors to this year’s event. Taking place from 11-12 October and located

the news that Great Britain will be named Ambiente partner country.

at Station Berlin, BCB will feature lectures, tastings, master-classes

Taking place from 10 – 14 February 2017, the show focuses on

and podium discussions with opinion leaders from across the global

tableware, kitchenware, household goods, drinks and dinnerware, as

bar and beverage scene.

well as furnishings.

At this year’s event, the United Kingdom will be named the country of

UK exhibitor products will be showcased in an extensive ‘partner

honour, and visitors from the UK will be able to enjoy a range of spirits

country presentation’ curated and designed by Scottish designer Janice

and craft beers alongside a special supporting programme. Overall 10%

Kirkpatrick, co-founder of Graven, a design studio specialising in visual

of the exhibitors will originate from the UK, and will feature alongside

and environmental brands.

a comprehensive selection of international brands and drinks-led

In addition to the presentation, there will once again be a café in the

organisations.

style of the partner country and, on the Monday of the fair, a traditional

This year’s programme includes prominent names such Beam

theme day. The Great Britain Day is being organised by UK exhibitors

Suntory, Bitburger, Borco-Marken-Import Matthiesen, Campari

and will itself feature a variety of events and presentations designed

Deutschland, Diageo Germany, Diversa Spezialitäten, Pernod Ricard

to showcase the nation.

Deutschland, Schweppes Deutschland,

Mast-Jägermeister, MBG

“I am excited to design the Ambiente UK partner exhibition, after

International Premium Brands, Ratsherrn, SAB Miller as well as

designing ‘Self-Service’ in 1998”, comments Kirkpatrick. Asked about

Schwarze and Schlichte Markenvertrie

her concept for the partner country presentation, she notes, “Glasgow

This tenth edition of Bar Convent Berlin will add an extra hall of

in Scotland, in the UK and in Europe – in all its dimensions – is the

exhibitors, highlighting the expansion of the festival, and demonstrating

perspective through which I work. Globalisation makes ‘local’ valuable

the growth of the international drinks industry at large.

because it is unique. I will search for exceptional micro-local and national products and ingredients to create the 2017 exhibition.”

www.barconvent.com

At Ambiente 2016, 4,367 exhibitors from 96 countries took part and presented their work to 137,000 visitors. www.ambiente.messefrankfurt.com

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By HoffmasterÂŽ

Elegant, Vibrant so Incredibly Soft and Disposable!

www.hoffmaster.com


PETITS FOURS

Camp Nude

Nude has revealed its new glassware range Camp, designed by New York City-based Joe Doucet. Understated in approach, the range sees the renowned designer and artist instill a sense of character and originality into matching bottom heavy refined glasses and an expertly cut, hipflask inspired, decanter. “I was contacted by Nude’s creative director Gaye Cevikel and given a list of typologies to consider creating designs for. I gravitated to a decanter set as it’s something rather antiquated that needs some thought to make its way back into a contemporary setting,” says Doucet. “I wanted to create a decanter collection that was an obvious update on the classically ornate decanters of the 18th and 19th centuries. Unlike wine, one doesn’t need to decant whiskies or scotches other than to make a statement and Camp is irreverent and contemporary.” With the eventual contents imagined as an emulation of the warmth of a campfire, both the decanter and glasses rest upon integrated brass X coasters, reminiscent of burning logs. Speaking on the combination of practical function and form, Doucet says, “Firstly, one has to hold and pour from the decanter which limits width and depth.

Secondly, one should not spill when doing so and that informs the neck angle and length. But lastly, the overall impression of the collection is just as important. One should delight in both the use and display of the decanter and glasses.” With a clear and simple aesthetic, the Camp range rejects obstructive branding and opts instead for tasteful mystery, offering the user an elegant option from which to serve drinks. As Doucet says, “Brands and branding have come to dominate decisions about which spirits to drink and serve. A decanter is a clear rejection of that, as one has to appreciate the quality of the spirit rather than associate it with a price-point. There is a slightly subversive and assertive quality in serving an unbranded spirit. It is a statement of confidence in your choices and I believe that somewhat elevates the experience, versus pouring from a labeled bottle.” Initially presented at Salone 16, Camp sits alongside Alba as new Nude collections from Doucet and both series continue the brand’s commitment to timeless simplicity. www.nudeglass.com

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Mythical Creatures by Kit Kemp, Firmdale Hotels


PETITS FOURS

Bespoke

Wedgwood Since the 18th century, and a commission from Catherine the Great of Russia to design and produce a 994 piece banqueting set, WWRD (Waterford, Wedgewood, Royal Doulton) has been a leader in the hospitality industry. Specialising in the development of bespoke tableware designs, Wedgwood products continue to grace the most exclusive dining tables in the world, including those of 5-star hotels and Michelin starred restaurants. The British brand has developed an esteemed list of clients on its home soil, including The Savoy, The Langham and Firmdale Hotels, plus a slew of international names such as St Regis Abu Dhabi and the Hotel Gstaad Palace. “Queen Catherine wanted something unique and, to this day, many high end hotels and restaurants have the same requirement,” comments Tim Harper, head of hospitality at the company. Outlining Wedgwood’s creative process, Tim explains that development can take between four to six months and always starts with a brief from the customer. “Perhaps the main dining room is being refurbished or the old china is looking tired. It may even be a brand new hotel. Either way, we discuss ideas often, and our main designer will be a part of those initial meetings. If you look at London as an example - which probably has the highest density of 5 Star hotels anywhere in the world - most establishments want something different from those around them. Take Park Lane: The Dorchester wants something different to the Intercontinental, Grosvenor House something apart from Four Seasons. Hotels spend millions on creating their differing ambiences and that includes the china.”

Once the basic concept is agreed upon, the designers and technicians begin the work of interpreting the design, usually based on a dinner plate, cup and saucer, on to all of the other items in the range. The latest technology has sped this process up to the point where prototypes can be produced in days rather than weeks. After approval by the customer, fired proofs are produced and signed-off, followed by manufacturing and final delivery. There are obviously many factors to take into account in the process, from interior design and colourways to the requirements of the head chef, which may differ greatly from the initial ideas. “Our product is the blank canvas for the chef’s art and many of them don’t want too much decoration interfering with the way the food is displayed,” says Harper. “We’ve been known to complete the process from initial meeting to delivery in 3 months, but this is rare and relies on getting it right first time with no alterations from both sides,” Thereafter, WWRD carry an agreed par-stock of product and decals, enabling it to keep the establishment regularly serviced depending on their requirements. With an illustrious brand story, afternoon tea at The Savoy is only a recent chapter in a lineage that stretches back to Catherine the Great’s Frog Service - on permanent display in St. Petersburg’s Summer Palace – and which will continue with each new commission and collaboration. www.wedgwood.com

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PETITS FOURS

Genesis by Affinity Villeroy & Boch

The Genesis by Affinity range from Villeroy & Boch insists that colour is the new white and focuses on bringing vibrancy to the table. The multifunctional series of pots, cups, plates and platters takes inspiration from the latest interior design trends, offering original colour schemes and providing distinctive dining options for a wide range of F&B environments. Robustly made and dedicated to bringing expressive tones of red, blue and yellow to the restaurant space, Genesis provides a functional alternative to minimalism. www.pro.villeroy-boch.com

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PETITS FOURS

Deluxe Chafer

Refreshment Barrels

Manufactured to an exceptional standard in polished, heavy gauge 18/10 stainless steel Elia International’s chafing dishes are available in stainless, brass or chrome finish. Durable and designed with practicality and function in mind, the deluxe range of chafing dishes is intended to bring a heightened elegance to buffet service and professional food presentation. Elia International has been supplying the on-trade sector for 25 years, with a sharp focus on product development.

With a capacity of five or eight litres, Frilich’s Refreshment Barrels are available either as a complete presentation solution or are customisable depending on need. Bases come in a variety of options – from wood in white or ‘natural’ to black and stainless steel – and all include a cooling pack. Additionally an infusion tube that can be placed inside the jar provides an opportunity to provide multiple flavoured beverages.

Elia International

Frilich

www.frilich.de www.elia.co.uk

Sequence

Multi-Chef Induction

Featuring 40 pieces, Sequence is a modular buffet concept intended to provide an alternative to rigid square serving options. The system is available in various dimensions and material combinations, such as wood, porcelain, stainless steel, fabric, Corian and plastic. Trapezoid serving dishes can be combined with ‘frames’ to ensure symmetry, with these frames also providing a presentation platform for food products. From ice buckets to lined breadbaskets, versatility and innovation is at the core of Sequence.

An alternative to fuel burners, Rosetto assert that the precise warming technology of the Multi-Chef Induction Set heats food ‘better and faster’. The set also allows chefs and serving staff to control temperatures over time to preserve food quality, reducing waste and ensuring a more consistent quality. Sets feature patented magnetic systems to hold chafers in place and, by eliminating the need for canned fuel, lower costs for the user and can heat continuously for nine hours.

www.hepp.de

www.rosseto.com

Hepp

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Rosetto


WIDE BEVERAGE MENU BUILT-IN RELIABILITY BI-DIRECTIONAL WIFI CONTROL

LaCimbali S30 is the new superautomatic machine created to offer up to 24 different recipes. The grouphead design guarantees maximum reliability and consistent beverage quality, while the new milk circuit delivers hot and cold frothed milk directly to the cup. LaCimbali S30, the perfect way to satisfy every taste.

SUPPER_ADV_S30_236x275.indd 1

16/06/16 18:02


Domino Tiger

This year marks the 20th anniversary of the inception of Tiger, the South Korean manufacturer of high quality buffetware. Since its launch in 1996, Tiger has provided the hospitality industry with innovative designs and reliable service, becoming a key brand for the hotel F&B industry. Having emerged as a subsidiary of Daijin Enterprise Co. after chairman and founder M Y Chang saw an opportunity in the hospitality business, Tiger has grown from a small workshop in South Korea, to a 20,000m2 factory in Tianjin, China, and eventually to a design centre in Italy. Over the past two decades, Tiger has expanded under the direction of Chang, and more recently his son, to ensure a consistently personal and familiar design voice. Tiger believes that its products should be technologically advanced, elegantly designed and competitively priced, an attitude that has helped elevate it to its current position within the

130

industry - one that sees its urns, dispensers, roll-top dishes, hollowware and trolleys present in dining spaces the world over. With distributors in North America, Europe and Asia, Tiger’s presence in the hospitality industry has now spread to over 50 countries and thousands of properties including developments by Hilton Hotels & Resorts, Jumeirah, Marriott and IHG. Korean engineers now work with Italian designers and Chinese manufacturers to achieve a truly global product, instilled with the same values outlined in the brand’s longstanding motto, one that states simply ‘no compromise in quality.’ Tiger’s latest range of banqueting equipment, titled Domino, is a selection of eco-friendly, induction-heated buffet components. By switching to an induction-heated system, the same level of heat is achieved as that of traditional products, but with 70% less electricity used. The Domino stackable carving station is

designed with a minimalist and modern sensibility, and incorporates a juice collecting carving board, and stackable base for easy storage. Notable for being the first dishwasher-proof carving station in the industry, the product brings together sleek design, optimal functionality and effortless storage and maintenance. The Domino range embodies Tiger’s approach to both aesthetics and performance, with a sustainable approach to contemporary buffetware and dining room products, and a design appropriate for a wide variety of environments and design schemes. Now 20 years into production, and with a legacy of reliability and innovation, Tiger continues to create products without compromising quality, and with an increasing demand for their products and designs throughout the hospitality industry. www.tigerhotel.co.kr


PETITS FOURS

131


PETITS FOURS

Roro

Olympic

When German architect Walter Gropius lost a bet to Philip Rosenthal he was tasked with designing a sty for Rosenthal’s pet pig Roro. Whilst the sty was never built, generations later Gropius’s illustrations have been translated by designer Ewelina Wisniowska into a motif for the aptly titled Roro range. Variations of the pig illustration adorn multiple pieces, from plates and bowls to a teapot, which are designed to complement components from the Tac range.

Matt white and glossy black, glossy white and matt black - the new Olympic series of glasses from Stölzle Lausitz creates inspiring accents in bars and restaurants. As a counterpoint to matte or glossy outer surfaces, the brand brings gold, silver and bronze together for an element of drama. Olympic features tumblers, cocktail glasses and champagne saucers – designed to reflect the latest interior and lifestyle trends.

Rosenthal

Stölzle Lausitz

www.stoelzle-lausitz.com www.rosenthal.de

Glass-Bead Blasting

Roots, Matrix

There are currently more ways and means of surface-finishing cutlery than ever before. WMF Professional is meeting this sustained desire for out-ofthe-ordinary flatware with a new, more delicate form of finishing: glassbead blasting. Glass-bead blasted cutlery has a silky matt character, combined with a totally homogeneous surface. Every cutlery collection from WMF Professional can be reinterpreted with this process and it also works on stainless steel hollowware, such as sugar bowls, trays and bread dishes.

Opposing in form and shape but utlimately complementary, the Roots and Matrix ranges add up to a harmonic overall composition. The bowls of the Roots series reflect natural forms, whilst Matrix is geometrically constructed, using hexagons and conveying a cleaness of style. Produced using traditional sand casting, the pieces funtion both as practical serving dishes and also as decorative tabletop objects. Glass platters from the Fakir series can be placed atop to offer a variety of further serving options.

www.wmf.com

www.zieher.com

WMF Professional

132

Zieher


Restaurant What do you see when you go to Sleep? Sleep 2016 presents and explores the most exciting products, technologies and ideas for the evolving values of hotel guests. The Hotel 22-23 November 2016 Design Event The Business Design Centre, London Comprising the exhibition, conference and installations including the ‘Science of Tribes’ Sleep Set competition, Sleep invites you to look again at hotel design. Register now at www.thesleepevent.com using code SLP2

The Hotel Design Event

22-23 November 2016 The Business Design Centre, London


HOTEL & RESTAURANT BUSINESS PLACE 06-10 November 2016 / Paris / France

1,600 exhibitors (37 countries) / 30 activity sectors / 111,000 profesionals (133 countries)

Get your free access badge on www.equiphotel.com CODE IUK01 From July 2016 In partnership with Organised by

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PETITS FOURS

Ice Ball Veen

With the Veen Ice Ball, Veen reveals an innovative new method for introducing ice to whisky. Inspired by the ancient Japanese craft of hand-cutting ice and based on Nordic ice proficiency, the ice ball minimises spirit dilution and provides an optimal temperature for both flavours and aromas to flourish. The strikingly designed, cubic Veen Ice Ball produces a slow-melting sphere of ice to offer whisky lovers a visually appealing and long-lasting frozen accompaniment to their drink. Of course, applying water changes a whisky’s flavour profile on a molecular level. Not any water – or ice – is ideal. Mineralised waters and ice taint the whisky with their own characteristics. VEEN Velvet and VEEN Effervescent offer smoothness, low mineral content and allow the drinker to detect even the subtlest of nuances in the spirit, without adding any characteristics of their own. www.veenwaters.com

135


PETITS FOURS

Photography: Scott Gordon Bleicher

Gunmetal Black

W1 Coupe

Featuring a mix of barspoons, stirrers, jiggers and strainers, Cocktail Kingdom unveil a collection of practical, attractive barware in gunmetal black. As a well-known manufacturer and distributor, Cocktail Kingdom has developed a reputation for developing pieces with a style-conscious sensibility. The collection in gunmetal black has been developed in collaboration with leading industry names, from Nico de Soto to Don Lee, whilst items such as the Leopold Jigger are inspired by vintage barware of the 1930s.

Zalto’s W1 Coupe is mouth blown and ideal for water, soft drinks and spirits. With a 370ml capacity, it is formed from Zalto’s signature ultrafine glass, balancing tactility and fragility with practicality and function. Founded in 2006 and having developed a profile as an industry leader, Zalto glassware is produced without the addition of lead oxide and is resistant to clouding. The company’s understated water glasses and tumblers are a natural accompaniment to superior stemware.

Cocktail Kingdom

Zalto

www.zaltoglas.at

www.cocktailkingdom.com

Tilia Obsidian

Shine

As part of the brand’s 10-year anniversary, Studio William has released the limited edition Tilia Obsidian finish. The simple, clean flowing forms and angular notes of the series provide a durable, versatile option for tabletop, while the new finish provides a point of difference from more typical polished cutlery. Tilia Obsidian is made using the finest quality 18/10 Stainless Steel and coated in a hardwearing gunmetal grey PVD Titanium.

The stainless steel bowls of the Shine series are double walled and therefore have an isolating effect. This helps to avoid generating condensed water, even at elevated temperatures. Cold food stays cold and warm food stays warm for longer. The inside of the bowls come in three variations: fine brushed stainless steel and two food-safe coatings in ivory and taupe. Shine is also available in three different sizes, with diameters of 16cm, 20cm and 24cm.

www.studiowilliam.com

www.zieher.com

Studio William

136

Zieher


PETITS FOURS

Urkiola

Georg Jensen A strikingly modern collection of Art Deco inspired tableware, the Urkiola collection from Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola brings together minimalist design with scratch resistant, durable materials. Comprising five pitchers, three bowls, two vases, two candleholders and a tray, this stainless steel range comes in an elegant, warm rose gold, with a striped ribbing texture. Drawing inspiration from the brand’s history and legacy, the Urkiola series aims to bring strict, simple lines to Georg Jensen’s diverse product portfolio. www.georgjensen.com

138


INTERNATIONAL BAR AND BEVERAGE TRADE SHOW

SAVE THE DATE! 11 & 12 OCTOBER 2016 STATION BERLIN WWW.BARCONVENT.COM

Organised by

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twitter.com/BarConventBER


PETITS FOURS

Rocks

Yayoi

Bonna’s practice of hand painting continues with new colour options in the brand’s Rocks series. With the same edge chip and warranty advantages of the ivory white collections, Rocks was developed to bring a warmth to Bonna’s offer and reflect the growing trend for more ‘personality rich’ tableware in the HORECA sector. With a mottled visual, the Rocks collection features ‘underglaze hand painting’ to create depth of field between the solid ‘rock hard’ body and brilliant glaze.

Designed by Ana Roquero, Yayoi invites service with a focus on healthy eating and creativity. Four plates can be arranged freeform to inspire menus based on eating smaller quantities but with more varied dishes. The Yayoi dining set helps chefs plan a complete meal by valuing the volume and capacity of different foods - carbohydrates, fruits, vegetables, and protein. Cookplay is supplied exclusively in the UK by Continental Chef Supplies.

www.bonna.com.tr

www.cookplay.eu | www.chefs.net

RW2

Shabby Chic

RW2 cutlery has soft concave detailing on each handle and the design is an updated version of Robert Welch’s Alveston cutlery, first released in 1962. Spoons and forks are made using the highest quality 18/10 stainless steel. Knife blades are made from specially hardened stainless steel to provide the finest possible cutting edge. The collection is available in both Satin and Mirror finish and is dishwasher safe.

Schönwald asserts that the gastronomic landscape is reinventing itself: instead of perfection, the focus has now shifted to authenticity. With this ethos in mind, the Shabby Chic range has been developed to provide an alternative to sharp, ultra-minimal tabletop styles. Available in eight different variations in shades of blue, grey or stonelook - both with and without ornamentation - Shabby Chic unfold its unique charm in combination with coarse linen, accessories in gleaming matte silver or rustic woods.

Bonna

Robert Welch

www.robertwelch.com

Cookplay

Schönwald

www.schoenwald.com

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ADVERTISING INDEX

41 Madison

115

Narumi 004

Aberfeldy 014

Nude 095

AHC 145

Perrier Jouet

Bar Convent

Robert Welch

017

Bartech 109

Ron Barcelo

101

Beluga Vodka

Rosseto 103

139

006 & 007

Bonna 055

Royal Brackla

Cimbali 129

Sleep 133

Craigellachie 061

Stolze 039

David Mellor

Studio William

148

Dewars 077

Tanqueray No. Ten

063

Dick 140

The London Number One

EquipHotel 134

Tiger Company

051

Hendrick’s 042

To The Table Asia

137

HEPP 047

To The Table Europe

122

Hoffmaster 121

Vero Water

012

Hotel Show Dubai

126

Victorinox 067

HX

143

Villeroy & Boch

059

081

008 & 009

029

Kilner 018

Walco 117

Maldon Salts

071

Wedgwood 021

Marques de Caceres

035

WMF 049

MCIC 119 Merchant’s Heart

142

010 & 011

079

Zieher

045


Steak and sizzle, we bring it all to the table.

REGISTER NOW for the largest hospitality show in North America. NOVEMBER 13-15, 2016 JACOB K. JAVITS CONVENTION CENTER NEW YORK CITY Join us in the hospitality capital of the world for inspiration, innovation, and information. Just walking the show floor you’ll find eye-catching demos, inventive exhibits, lively conversations —or even your next best offering.

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THE WASHING UP

They say third time’s a charm, and for issue three of Supper we spoke to three behemoths of the industry who have all benefitted from charmed careers. Adam Tihany, Pierre Koffmann and Alex Kratena are figureheads of their respective crafts: one design, one food and one drink. Individually they represent three distinct disciplines and yet each extoll the virtues of collaboration. It’s an ethos on which the global hotel F&B industry is built. At Supper we welcome collaborative opportunities and are actively seeking to work with hotel F&B outlets, chefs, bartenders, suppliers, creative agencies and food stylists. For further details, please contact us. I’d like to thank all of those involved in our third issue and, as always, we appreciate your feedback. Should you have any questions or suggestions feel free to drop me an email at h.mckinley@mondiale.co.uk. Until our next Supper.

Harry McKinley | Editor

144


AHC ANNUAL HOTEL CONFERENCE 12 & 13 OCTOBER 2016 H I LT O N M A N C H E S T E R D E A N S G AT E

Performing in Transient Times To register for the UK’s leading hotel conference, please visit

www.theahc.co.uk

Running for the 13th year and attracting over 800 delegates, The AHC is the leading event for the UK hotel industry.

Supper Editor, Harry McKinley will moderate “Maligned to Refined: The face of hotel F&B is changing, whether you are creating your own concept or franchising a wellknown brand, this session will make sure you don’t get left behind in the bar and restaurant revolution”. This session will take place on Wednesday 13th Oct at 12.30pm.

Join independent hoteliers, owners, operators and managers as well as investors, developers, designers, architects, consultants and tourism leaders for a day and a half of unrivalled practical knowledge designed to add real value to your business operations.

An exclusive discounted independent hotelier rate is available. Please contact Rowan Scahill on rowan.scahill@theahc.co.uk for further details.

• AHC Connect – Podium Bar and Meeting Areas – zones that tie in with the new and improved dedicated social media platform: AHC Connect. Delegates and sponsors can take a break, grab a bite to eat, meet up with peers and catch up with emails throughout the 2 days.

We look forward to welcoming you to The AHC

Learn. Network. Be Inspired.

• The Programme – New for 2016 are a series of operational workshops on Technology, Digital and Revenue and Distribution. Traditional panel sessions, interviews and presentations covering F&B, Asset Management, Finance and Sales and Marketing also feature. • AHC Social – an ambient zone with food and drinks served all day • AHC Innovate – a zone that brings together technology, integrated guest services and emerging design in architecture and use of space that will shape the hotels of our future

@AnnualHotelConf #AHC2016

Join The Annual Hotel Conference Group

The Annual Hotel Conference


CUTLERY

METICULOUS SENSORY FORMS INSPIRED BY NATURE

Contact our sales team for your Free Samples

BALSA MIRROR CUTLERY

T +44 01386 800 000 | SALES@STUDIOWILLIAM.COM | WWW.STUDIOWILLIAM.COM

Profile for Mondiale Media

Supper - Issue 03  

Supper is a quarterly publication from the people behind leading international hotel design magazine Sleeper, covering the global hotel F&B...

Supper - Issue 03  

Supper is a quarterly publication from the people behind leading international hotel design magazine Sleeper, covering the global hotel F&B...

Profile for mondiale