Supper - Issue 29

SERVICE

Chef’s Table 026

Acclaimed chef Raymond Blanc OBE shares a snapshot of his life in food.

Pic Perfect 028

With no fewer than ten Michelin stars to her name, Anne-Sophie Pic, the most decorated female chef in the world, has taken the success of her family dynasty to dizzying new heights.

Big Fish to Fry 034

Swedish chef Frida Ronge is using her NordicJapanese cuisine to champion sustainability and the future of food.

Food for Thought

Robert Juntke, Vice President Food & Beverage Europe, Middle East and Africa at Marriott International, discusses the buffet breakfast.

DINING

Grow Your Own Way

In Paris, palace hotels are looking closer to home when it comes to cultivating fresh produce for some of the world’s most revered restaurants.

The World’s 50 Best Restaurants

Hotel restaurants step into the spotlight at the awards ceremony celebrating the most exciting dining venues around the globe.

LILLET YOUR WAY

azores

Reminiscent of the dramatic landscapes and natural beauty of the Azores Islands of Portugal, the Folio Azores collection is comprised of tastefully organic stoneware. With graceful yet irregular shaped edges, Azores emulates the look of authentic, hand-thrown stoneware, designed specifically for casual dining and small bites.

JOIN THE

Mid-Century Modern

Sleek Canape Display For Cocktail Parties

A Place at the Pass

Here at Supper we are well versed in championing women in hospitality, and we have been lucky enough, over the years, to feature some of the most famous female faces from across the F&B sector – including chefs, bartenders and corporate gurus – on these pages. But it was a particular privilege to be able to interview Anne-Sophie Pic, an indomitable culinary legend by any standard and the mostdecorated female chef in the world to boot, for this issue. A self-taught gastronomic ace with an extensive portfolio of critically acclaimed restaurants in some of the most luxurious international hotels, her remarkable success is testament to a creative and technical talent, conviction and vision that have not only fuelled her rise to unprecedented heights in the industry, but also equipped her to overcome considerable personal and professional challenges en route. In our interview with her on page 28, she reflects on her trajectory to the top, the hotel collaboration she is currently launching in Mauritius, and the struggle and reward involved in carving out a place at the head of what can often be a male-dominated business. Pic is passionate about promoting the presence of women in the F&B industry, underlining the importance of balance and diversity when it comes to building her own teams and stressing the value of listening to women who contribute to the broader conversation. Another industry powerhouse doing just that – and proving beyond doubt that women have a place at the pass – is Frida Ronge, an award-winning Swedish chef on a mission to shape the way we think about sustainable eating via her distinct Nordic-Japanese cuisine and an eco-minded seaweed partnership. Turn to page 34 to read our second chef feature of this issue, in which the Marine Stewardship Council ambassador and Culinary Director of the restaurants Tak and Unn sheds light on her philanthropic work and her latest project, a rooftop restaurant at the newly opened Sommero in Oslo, where Japanese classics are given a strong (and sustainable) Norwegian twist.

Speaking of food supply chain sustainability – the topic is once again under the microscope in Paris, where the city’s fabled palace hotels are getting their hands dirty by investing in urban gardens that allow them to cultivate a healthy proportion of their kitchen produce within digging distance of the metropolis. Our report on page 82 explores the permaculture methods and chemical-free collaborations resulting in greener, wilder and more seasonally driven menus at some of the most prestigious dining venues across the French capital.

And as the Northern hemisphere’s 2022 summer season draws to a close, we look at the hottest new international openings, dancing you through Mykonos to Mallorca via the Maldives. Though early reports point to a positive bounce in tourist numbers – a welcome relief after the strained seasons of recent years – hotel F&B businesses continue to face economic uncertainty, with energy bills rising across the board, and particularly sharply in the UK (see our trend report on page 24). Data suggests that in times of financial crisis, women in the hospitality sector are more professionally vulnerable: with the most recent statistics available suggesting that female head chefs are very much in the minority in both the US and the UK, guarding against further inequality will be imperative in the coming months. As the trailblazing progress of culinary heavyweights like Anne-Sophie Pic, Frida Ronge and their contemporaries prove, women truly do deserve a place at the pass.

Thank you, as ever, for your support. Supper is served.

Shanna McGoldrick • Deputy Editor

ON THE COVER Fari Marina Village, Maldives © Georg Roske

ENTRÉE

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POWERED

The Art of Taking Tea

The rituals of afternoon tea are steeped in tradition, but diners at Bulgari Hotel London are in for a significantly more modern approach. This September, the hotel celebrated its 10th anniversary by calling on the acclaimed British-Nigerian multidisciplinary artist Yinka Ilori to transform its offering of dainty sandwiches and cakes into an immersive experience incorporating his provocative and playful sensibilities.

The Yinka Ilori X Bulgari Hotel London Afternoon Tea launched on 16 September to coincide with the opening of the artist’s first institutional show at the city’s Design Museum.

The installation centres on a series of sculptural tea stands featuring interlocking spheres that represent cultural variety, and also includes a vibrant takeover of the building’s façade and a limited edition run of 200 colourful linen napkins.

The joyful offering features pastries from award-winning Italian pastry chef and chocolatier-in-residence Gianluca Fusto too. The treats focus on autumnal combinations of Italian dried fruits with almond, pistachio, hazelnut and peanut, designed to reflect the geometry and vibrancy of the tea stands. Highlights include Pistacchio, a choux pastry filled with pistachio mousse, nougat and praline, and Mandorla, an orange biscuit, almond cream and orange compote.

“My designs for this collaboration celebrate London’s cultural mosaic and the joy of coming together over food,” explains Ilori. “The tea stands are based on the geometry of the sphere and the meeting of different cultures, and I hope people will gather at the hotel and enjoy a vibrant and colourful dining experience through the afternoon tea.”

Fresh Meat: Reimagining the Steak

Vegetarian, flexitarian and vegan diners all over the world have become used to being able to order plant-based versions of their favourite dishes without hassle, as replacement meat products have established themselves as everyday menu staples across F&B venues internationally. Now the European company Redefine Meat is propelling the trend even further, with the launch of what it claims is the world’s first plant-based 3D printed steak.

The product, which Redefine Meat says delivers the texture, flavour and appearance of a traditional beef steak, allegedly achieves what was previously considered technologically impossible for plant-based meat, by simulating a bleeding quality in a similar way to traditional beef and lamb cuts.

Sceptical? Diners in London can now test out the concept for themselves at Powerplant, the in-house vegan restaurant at the Camden branch

of Selina, a hotel chain built to meet the needs of millennial and Gen Z travellers. Head Chef Lukasz Dawidowicz has collaborated with Redefine Meat to create a series of new signature dishes that put the 3D printed synthetic meat product front and centre, with highlights including a juicy steak served with preserved lemon chimichurri, steamed summer greens, fresh peas, pomegranate demi-glace and sweet potato fries. Further dishes include roasted and charred aubergine with caramelised Redefine meatballs, and a grilled pita stuffed with Redefine’s kebab mince, mango amba, tahini sauce, chopped herb and Isle of Wight tomato salad.

Selina is currently working on introducing its Powerplant concept – and, consequently, the collaboration with Redefine Meat – into its properties across Europe and the US, and the hotel chain is clearly anticipating a boom in meat-like consumption. Time to fire up the printer?

Cardboard Footprint

Now that paper straws are the norm, Buen Vato is carving out a niche for the cardboard bottle. This July, the brand – which produces small-batch tequila in Amatitán Jalisco, Mexico – rolled out a revolutionary receptacle in the form of a bottle-shaped cardboard container made from 94% recycled materials.

The bottle, which recently launched in Sweden with other European territories to follow, boasts a lower carbon footprint than traditional bottles and is lighter to transport. It is part of Buen Vato’s parent company AliasSmith AB’s initiative to invest in sustainable manufacturing, transportation processes and CSR initiatives.

“The drinks industry needs a shake-up, and sustainability needs to be placed at the heart of this transformation,” says AliasSmith CEO Claes Puebla Smith. “The cardboard bottle is just the start, Buen Vato will constantly redesign the production, packaging and business model in order to reach perfect sustainability.”

Omar Corona, head of the pollution reduction programme at AliasSmith, adds: “It’s time for a change where conscious consumers buy the nice cardboard bottles and, if they wish to, pour their tequila into a crystal bottle at home,” adds. “Why continue polluting so much to enjoy a tequila?” We’ll drink to that.

Will the UK’s soaring energy bills drive independent restaurants to seek the shelter of hotel group partnerships?

Another month; another precarious moment for the UK hospitality industry. This time, it’s energy bills making the headlines, following record price surges across Europe that have left many bar and restaurant owners fearing for the survival of their businesses. As Russia’s war in Ukraine continues to squeeze the gas and electricity supply chain, British hospitality venues are facing dramatically soaring running costs – as highlighted by Michelin-starred chef and business owner Tom Kerridge, who revealed back in September that he was expecting the electricity tab at one of his restaurants to rise from £5k a month to an eye-watering £35k a month at the end of the year. “The numbers are so ridiculous and ludicrous that no wonder

CEO of HOSPA, the Hospitality Professionals Association, underlined “as a sector we need more targeted support”.

Rising costs are also a pressing issue in the hotel industry, but owner-chefs whose venues form part of major hotel groups might find themselves with a softer financial cushion than those running standalone restaurants. So will the changing energy landscape lead to more F&B entrepreneurs seeking to collaborate with hotel corporations whose wallets can better absorb rising overheads? “I think a lot of that will come down to the hotels, but if you find the right relationships, they work very well for both parties,” says Kerridge. “As always, these things have to work hand-in-hand, but there are huge

Keeping the Lights On

so many businesses are closing and talking of closing,” he said.

Since then, the British government has put together an energy relief scheme that will provide UK businesses with a discount on wholesale gas and electricity prices, running for an initial six month period for energy usage from 1 October 2022 to 31 March 2023. It’s a move that has been welcomed by F&B venues, but several organisations have pointed out that its temporary nature will still leave the sector vulnerable in the medium term. “Today’s announcement will give businesses some confidence to plan for immediate survival but we will not relent in our pursuit of a more comprehensive package to safeguard businesses and jobs,” said UKHospitality CEO Kate Nicholls, when the new package was announced. Michael Kill, CEO of Night Time Industries Association (NTIA), added that the measures were “unlikely to be enough to ensure businesses have the financial headroom to survive this winter,” while Jane Pendlebury,

benefits to be gained, not only for the operators but for the guest also.” However, he points out that although the move might be beneficial in relieving the pressure on F&B businesses in some ways, a hotel partnership is no guarantee of fiscal safety. “I think there are a different array of problems that they [restaurants within hotels] face,” he explains. “The finances themselves aren’t run by the restaurant directly, so although it may feel that there is an initial protection, there are other areas that need to work to make it financially secure.”

Pendlebury also believes that the spike in bills could lead to more hotel-restaurant partnerships.

“There’s no doubt this would encourage a sense of strength in numbers, whilst also reducing and sharing risk during uncertain financial times,” she points out. “I think the key here is to establish an arrangement that not only benefits both parties financially but also has long-term prospects for the credibility of both outlets.” Could this be hospitality’s lightbulb moment?

CHEF’S TABLE

Raymond Blanc OBE

The eminent French Chef-Patron of the Oxfordshire stalwart Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, A Belmond Hotel, shares his favourite food memories.

When did you first fall in love with cooking?

I fell in love with cooking as a child, when I was growing up in Besançon, in the FrancheComté region of France. My mum was my great inspiration and her values formed the foundations of my cooking and my career.

What is your most memorable meal?

Alain Ducasse gave me one of the most memorable meals of my life, at Le Louis XV at l’Hôtel de Paris in Monaco. One of the dishes was a thin tartlet of truffle, served with just a drop of oil and crudités – it was so clean and fresh, and it shows that the greatest chefs appreciate simplicity.

What’s your favourite dish and who cooks it?

My partner Natalia, who is also the nutritionist at the Raymond Blanc Cookery School, cooks the best slip sole, which is a small Dover sole. As I enter the house, I smell the deep, rich scents of a beurre noisette; immediately my stress vanishes because I know Natalia is pan-frying that fantastic slip sole. Many types of fish can be cooked this way. I love this dish so much I included the recipe in my latest book, Simply Raymond. Thank you Natalia!

And something to drink with that?

A good crisp Chablis, s’il vous plaît.

Restaurant dining or room service?

Restaurant dining – but room service is also a treat.

It’s Sunday evening at home: who’s cooking and what’s on the menu?

Sundays are not always a day of rest, but if I’m watching Arsenal play football or France play rugby then I like a snack of saucisse de Morteau – of all the sausages in the world, it’s my favourite – with a few slices of Comté cheese, some crunchy sourdough and a glass of vin jaune.

What’s your go-to cooking soundtrack?

In a professional kitchen the sound of cooking is the music. At home, give me The Rolling Stones or Beethoven.

Sweet or savoury?

Savoury - though I am partial to those great British desserts, the crumble and the sticky toffee pudding.

Which chefs have inspired you?

There are so many. I would love to have met Marie-Antoine (Antonin) Carême. Although he was born into poverty during the French Revolution, he went on to cook for Napoleon Bonaparte and Russian tsars. He also came to Britain to cook for the Prince Regent, later to become George IV. But Carême hated the English fog and thought London was sombre, so he returned to France.

How often do you dine out?

As often as possible when I’m not cooking for others who are dining out!

Are you an easygoing or a demanding restaurant customer?

I’m easygoing. I’d much rather compliment than complain.

Which cookbooks can we find on your shelf?

There are many books on many shelves. At the moment, I’m enjoying Essential, a cookbook for home cooks written by my gifted protégé, the chef Ollie Dabbous.

Where do you get the creative inspiration for your dishes?

I’m inspired by many things, including my vegetable garden and orchards at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, and my travels.

Healthy dishes or full-fat indulgence? Healthy indulgence.

Which city is food heaven for you?

Lyon is known as the belly of France and is indeed a gastronomic treat. However, I am fortunate enough to have a home near Nice, which is another food heaven. I like to escape to the South of France, enjoying long lunches at a table overlooking the Mediterranean. I also like to visit the local markets, where I gaze in amazement at the local vegetables and fruits, lovingly presented on the stalls.

Who is your favourite person to cook for?

Like any cook, I’m happiest when cooking for those I love.

Pic Perfect

With no fewer than ten Michelin stars to her name, Anne-Sophie Pic, the most-decorated female chef in the world, has taken the success of her family dynasty to dizzying new heights.

t’s often life events that guide you in making decisions,”

says French culinary legend Anne-Sophie Pic, nursing a cup of tea in the plush surroundings of her London restaurant La Dame de Pic. “That’s what makes you grow up. Unfortunately, they can be happy events or unhappy events, but that’s life.”

The specific life event she is referring to is the sudden death of her father, the acclaimed chef Jacques Pic, in 1992. Anne-Sophie, just 23 years old at the time, had returned to the family’s restaurant – the three-Michelin-starred Maison Pic in Valence, Southeast France – three months previously, with a view to beginning her culinary training with him.

In the aftermath of his death, Pic returned to working in a front-of-house position, but in 1995 the restaurant was dealt a blow when it lost its third Michelin star. Despite having no formal culinary training, she made the decision to take control of the kitchen. “At that point, I think I was probably in a very vulnerable place, because I’d just lost my father, my guide, the person I thought would teach me everything,” she recalls. “And at the same time, I had a fierce drive – that had always been there, really – to tell myself: ‘It’s possible – you have to go after your dreams.’”

‘It’s possible’ proved to be an understatement: not only did Pic win back the restaurant’s third Michelin star, but today she has an astonishing 10 of them to her name, making her the most highly-decorated female chef in the world. The doyenne of French gastronomy, her prestigious dining portfolio still includes the Valence flagship, as well

as acclaimed venues such as La Dame de Pic in Paris, AnneSophie Pic at the Beau-Rivage Palace in Switzerland, and La Dame de Pic outposts at Four Seasons Hotel London at Ten Trinity Square and Raffles Singapore. The newest addition to the collection, La Dame de Pic - Le 1920, which recently opened at Four Seasons Hotel Megève in the French Alps, won its first Michelin star earlier this year. But she’s not stopping there: October finds her even further afield in Mauritius, where she is hosting a culinary pop-up experience, La Dame de Pic at Prime, at the luxurious One & Only Le Saint Géran.

Pic boasts a stellar culinary heritage: her greatgrandparents Eugene and Sophie founded Maison Pic in 1889 and her grandfather André was the first to win three stars for the establishment. Yet despite her genetic makeup – and a childhood spent living above the restaurant, dabbling in baking and patisserie during the school holidays and permanently immersed in the sounds, smells and rhythms of the kitchen – she never imagined she would find herself in this position. In fact, she initially sought to break away from the family legacy, undertaking studies and internships in business and marketing that took her overseas in her early twenties. Asked what her young self might make of her brilliant culinary success, she shakes her head modestly. “No, I don’t think I would have believed it,” she says, reflecting of the freedom of her early years. “I think I had a sort of carefree outlook that I thank my parents for giving me.”

It is an attitude that has come in handy throughout the course of her career. As a self-taught chef carving a

Words: Shanna McGoldrick • Portrait Photography: © Fabien Dubessay

Aurelie Lamour

© Jean-Francois Mallet

path through what is often a male-dominated industry, her success has been hard-won.

Having taken the reins at Maison Pic, she threw herself into gaining a complete understanding of her new universe, seeking the advice of mentors and contemporaries, and undertaking intense courses to master specific techniques.

“At the time it was really a disadvantage to be a self-taught woman,” she recalls of her baptism of fire. “My biggest worry was telling myself ‘Above all, you must not lose the second star’.” She didn’t, of course, going on to regain the third star in a coup reminiscent of the success of her father, who won back both second and third stars for the restaurant after they were lost in the aftermath of WWII. Her own reinstating of the all-important third was, she believes, the moment that signalled the start of her culinary journey. “It was the beginning for me; it was the start of something,” she reflects. “I no longer felt guilty about not being in the right place. I moved on to a new stage and it was completely liberating. From that moment, I started to really have fun.”

Today, Pic’s gastronomic style is driven by a fascination with both the alchemic qualities of her ingredients, and a keen interest in the intricate techniques that elevate them to new levels. She experiments with flavours and aromas, specialising in dishes that reveal themselves gradually through each bite. It’s an approach that might see her glaze Cornish turbot with pastis, or Hereford beef fillet with gin, dill seeds and coffee, as at her twoMichelin-starred venue La Dame de Pic in London. Alternatively, she might lacquer Arctic char with whisky, or stuff Berlingo pasta with absinthe green zebra tomato broth infused with meadowsweet and ground ivy – just two of her signature dishes at La Dame de Pic – Le 1920 in Megève. In the same venue, her millefeuille blanc dessert is served with leatherwood honey eucalyptus in a fine jelly and blackcurrant for a dash of contrasting tartness; it is the perfect example of how she unites sweet and bitter notes in a symphonic approach to haute cuisine that is both scientific and artistic.

“I really love nature and its ingredients, I find it extraordinary,” she elaborates. “For me, what gives food its taste is emotion: technique exists to serve the concept of flavour, and that has always been the case for me.”

This fascination with flavour means she is constantly experimenting with unorthodox possibilities in her cuisine. “It’s the invisible threads that pull on each ingredient, that marry up with each other, that reveal themselves in relation to each other; that’s the magic of flavour,” she says. “It must be a living thing.”

One of her latest undertakings is the development of Imprégnation Absolue, a globally inspired non-alcoholic drinks pairing menu that launched this September at La Dame de Pic in London. The concept is grounded in the theory of metamorphosis, using steeping, steaming, smoking or marinating to enhance aromas and create surprising flavours in both the dishes and drinks. As part of the dining

experience, guests are invited to observe the process of transformation before the dishes arrive, via tableside rituals such as the theatrical preparation of cocktails and tea, or the mixing of certain ingredients for the sauce.

She finds inspiration in meetings and encounters, she says, but also, inevitably, in her travels. She would, she hints, love to open a restaurant in Japan one day – a country she feels a great affection for – and perhaps launch a venue in New York. “These days we live in a world where we’re locavores – and personally I am, too – but I think it’s important to remain open to the world, because if not we run the risk of no longer knowing how to do new things,” she points out. “Locavorism can have a very positive effect, but also a negative effect if it’s a bit too extreme: it’s all about balance.”

The approach is demonstrated at her upcoming One & Only pop-up, where the exclusive one-off menu offers a locally inspired fine-dining experience that she refers to as being “straight off the shores” of Mauritius. “It is this landscape, and the aromatic complexity of the lush produce found on the island, that inspired me to curate a menu bursting with the textures and tastes reflecting the local terroir,” she reflects. The pop-up – which will run until March 2023 – will see Pic incorporate ingredients sourced from the island into her signature culinary style, resulting in elegant and tropical dishes such as grilled octopus and foie gras, bouillabaisse jelly served with heart of palm salad and lobster bisque served in a coconut infused with Chamarel rum. Regional ingredients such as coconut and hibiscus will feature throughout.

One thing is for certain: Pic is exceedingly well-versed in the art of the hotel restaurant. Her longstanding partnerships with groups such as Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts, Sandoz Foundation Hotels and Accor have given her a wide-ranging and comprehensive perspective on the myriad ways in which thoughtfully executed hotel-restaurant collaborations can be mutually beneficial for both parties. “I think that a hotel is, in some ways, the extension of a

“For me, what gives food its taste is emotion: technique exists to serve the concept of flavour.”

Pic’s

is driven by a fascination with flavour

restaurant,” she divulges. “I love hotels because they often have a magic, an atmosphere that’s just different.” She points out that dining venues can play a major part in the overall success of a hotel, saying: “I also think the energy of a hotel is often sustained by the restaurant. The restaurant can be the lungs of the hotel – it’s a real dynamic.”

Asked what she believes is the secret to her success, she is characteristically unassuming. “I think it’s actually a form of sincerity,” she eventually concludes. “That’s what you have to seek all the time in your work and in your relationships with others – because you can’t succeed alone.” She is quick to credit her international team of chefs, with whom she creates all the menus for each restaurant at the goup’s HQ in Valence. Though she spends a lot of her time in the southeast French region, she regularly visits her overseas restaurants and explores their environments, keen to seek out inspiration. “It is important that they all have their own identity,” she asserts.

She remains a fierce champion of promoting the presence of women in the profession, and feels strongly that having a balance of male and female chefs on her teams is beneficial for everyone – not least, the diner. “I think this symbiosis is important,” she states. The industry, she believes, has made progress since her debut, but she is at a loss to explain how the culinary world became so densely populated by men at the top. “The profession has become very masculine, which hasn’t always been the case,” she says. “But at one point it closed itself off –it’s hard to know why, but in any case it’s the reality. My grandfather, for example, considered Mère Brazier, who had three Michelin stars, as his equal – he didn’t think because she was a woman she was less technical.”

How does she manage the demands of her growing culinary empire? “My father’s advice to me was to never forget where you come from; stay humble and sincere, whatever you achieve,” she concludes. As recipes for success go, it’s one that has served her well.

“I love hotels because they often have a magic, an atmosphere that’s just different.”

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Big Fish to Fry

Award-winning Swedish chef Frida Ronge is using her unique blend of Nordic-Japanese cooking to champion local produce, sustainability and the way we think about seaweed.

Born and raised in Gothenburg, Sweden, Frida Ronge is about as un-Japanese as you can get. But a slow-burning fascination with the Asian nation’s cuisine has developed into a distinct style of fusion cooking, earning the dynamic 37-yearold a place among Sweden’s top chefs. “I love flavours from Japan and always feel good after eating Japanese food,” says Ronge passionately, speaking from the rooftop restaurant at Sommerro, a newly minted hotel that has just launched in Oslo. “I get inspired by eating out, meeting people, seeing pictures of food that looks good, scents and other chefs. David Chang, the founder of the Momofuku restaurant group, is a favourite, as is Josh Niland, the chef and restaurateur behind Saint Peter in Sydney. He is so humble in everything he does and the way he treats fish is the best I have ever seen.”

It was 16 years ago while working as a young chef at Sälens Högfjällshotell, a resort in Western Sweden, that Ronge - the daughter of a fisherman - began to question why she

was preparing sushi using vacuum-packed fish imported from Japan. Later, as Chef de Cuisine at Råkultur, a now-shuttered modern sushi joint in Stockholm, she found herself in a position to fuel her obsession with sustainability and took the initiative of sourcing fish from Nordic waters. A first for the city, the move was such a big hit that it kick-started her unique culinary style. The rest, as they say, is history.

Since then - after a few stints of working in Japan, where she honed her skills - Ronge has won numerous awards, including a silver medal at the Seven Sushi Samurai World Championships in 2009 and the White Guide Rising Star of the Year in 2013. She is the author of a handful of cookbooks and the driving force behind several sustainable eating initiatives. She also serves as an ambassador for various public health and sustainability causes such as the Hunger Project, a non-profit organisation that works to eliminate hunger and poverty, and the Marine Stewardship Council. Following the success of vRå, the Nordic-Japanese restaurant she opened in Gothenburg’s Clarion Hotel

Words: Lauren Ho • Photography: © Lars Petter Petterson (unless otherwise stated)

Post in 2012, she is now the Culinary Director at Stockholm’s acclaimed eateries Tak and Unn. The latter is an intimate and exclusive teppanyaki spot, while Tak is Ronge’s signature restaurant that has been turning heads since it opened in 2017, thanks to its bold Japanese flavours and its use of fresh, sustainable Nordic ingredients.

It’s been such a hit that Sommerro - part of Nordic Hotels & Resorts - has joined forces with Ronge to open a second Tak outpost on its rooftop. “I am proud to call myself Frida’s first fan,” says Petter Stordalen, owner of parent company Nordic Choice Hotels. “From the time I appointed her to helm vRå at the Clarion Post in Gothenburg, I could tell she wanted to create something extraordinary with completely free rein. At Tak Stockholm, she combines magic on a plate with an informal atmosphere, and I look forward to giving people a taste of Tak in Oslo.”

Ronge, with typical enthusiasm, adds: “Sommerro is a fantastic destination in itself and as the only rooftop restaurant in the city, Tak Oslo will be one of the new spots to be. I think our Nordic-Japanese concept will offer a new type of interesting food to Norway and I hope we reach as wide an audience here as we have in Stockholm.”

Occupying the former headquarters of Oslo Lysverker - the city’s original electrical company - Sommerro’s opening marks the rebirth of a 1930s functionalist and Art Deco landmark in Frogner, one of the capital’s oldest neighbourhoods, where elegant 18th-century buildings fill peaceful, leafy tree-lined streets. Against breathtaking city views, Tak can be found on the top two floors of the hotel in a new circular extension designed by LPO Architects and inspired by the curved

shapes common at the time. The main restaurant sits on level eight, with Izakaya, a casual bar accessible via a sweeping staircase, located on the floor below.

Here, alongside sake by the glass and Japanese inspired cocktails - like the Tak Negroni made with Roku gin, fermented pineapple Campari, vermouth and blood orange sake - Ronge serves up a tasty offering of Japanese comfort food snacks and street food. The menu is filled with crowd-pleasers including a selection of fresh sushi and sashimi made using Norwegian fish, a deep-fried pork katsu sando sandwich with cabbage and cheddar cheese, and a soba noodle salad with marinated wakame from the Norwegian archipelago of Lofoten. “The point here,” says Ronge, “is for people to drop by for a drink and if they want some food, they can order a selection of small bites to share.”

Upstairs, against floor-to-ceiling windows that frame city views and shed light onto elegant interiors by New York and London-based firm Grecodeco, Ronge has given her distinct culinary concept a native twist. As such, diners can expect dishes like Norwegian boknafisk sashimi, served with potato, horseradish, trout roe, dill, shiso and a drizzling of brown butter and soy sauce, as well as Norwegian scallop tartare with cucumber, jalapeño, sesame soy and yuzu dressing. There is fresh Nordic sashimi made using local fish like Arctic char and served with house-made pickled swede - sourced from a local farm - instead of ginger, and for dessert, brunost cheese-flavoured ice cream with a white miso, caramel and yuzu sauce. “I love to look into the history of food in each country I am visiting, and Norway has some really unique products like Törfisk and brunost - a local cheese -

“I’d like to encourage people to think in a new way, to cook great food involving new ingredients and produce with no waste.”

Ronge has partnered with Lofoten Seaweed to ensure the plants she uses at Tak Oslo are harvested sustainably

alongside the best fish in the world and great quality seaweed,” says Ronge.

Passionate about seaweed – both its health benefits and “the amazing umami flavours it adds to food” – Ronge, who also says she wants to inspire people to eat more of it, has partnered with Lofoten Seaweed, a local company that sustainably wild harvests seaweed from the Arctic waters of Lofoten. Not only does the organisation provide all of the seaweed used at Tak Oslo; she has also incorporated it into a vegan Nordic-Japanese furikake. Using handpicked wild seaweed from North Norway, mixed with sesame seeds and flavoured with plums and puffed rice, the Tak furikake is the perfect topping for anything from rice to salads, mashed potatoes, or in a sandwich. “I love to work with passionate people and it’s clear that Angelita and Tamara - the founders of Lofoten Seaweed - love the ocean, sustainability and nutrition, which is a perfect match with my vision,” says Frida. “We don’t know much about seaweed in Norway, but in Japan it’s a

base ingredient so I understand the power of it as a superfood.”

Lofoten Seaweed is just one of the many local producers that Ronge has gone out of her way to source. Her collaboration with Sommerro is a smart move that not only further boosts Oslo’s already thriving culinary scene, but sets a new standard for a city that is ready to shine on the world stage.

As for what’s next, Ronge wants to continue to champion sustainability and to learn more about the future of food. “I’d like to encourage people to think in a new way, to cook great food involving new ingredients and produce with no waste,” she says. She also plans on creating her own sustainable consumer sushi brand that will, of course, include Nordic seaweed. When we speak, she has just made it to the semi-finals of Kockarnas Kamp, a Swedish TV programme that sees the country’s top professional chefs compete against each other in tough culinary challenges. For now, it seems there’s no stopping this superstar chef on a mission.

PROFILE Robert Juntke Vice President of Food & Beverage Europe, Middle East & Africa Marriott International

As Vice President of Food & Beverage for Europe, the Middle East and Africa at Marriott International, Robert Juntke is responsible for overseeing the success of more than 3,000 venues across more than 1,000 hotels; a portfolio that includes some of the group’s most luxurious brands, such as The Ritz-Carlton, W Hotels and the Edition label. His journey into hospitality began early, with an apprenticeship in his native Germany and a job as a waiter, followed by the decision to enrol in hotel school. He completed a bachelor’s degree in hotel management before moving into brand operations and area operations, and has been in his current role since 2019.

Upcoming Openings:

Bling Tiger, The Ritz-Carlton, Baku (2022); Hedwigs, 12|14 Stradom House, Autograph Collection, Krakow (2022); Sushisamba, W Edinburgh (2023)

Food for Thought

As Marriott International continues to strengthen its culinary offering, the group’s Vice President Food & Beverage Europe, Middle East & Africa Robert Juntke discusses regional trends, harnessing the power of tech and the future of the buffet.

Words: Shanna McGoldrick

Marriott International’s extensive portfolio includes some of the most recognisable luxury hotel brands in the business: from names like The Ritz-Carlton and St Regis to W Hotels, Bulgari and Edition, the group has perfected the art of creating upscale hotels with distinct personalities. It’s a philosophy that extends to its F&B offering, which spans casual breakfast joints and fine-dining venues, placing an emphasis on destination eateries that appeal to guests and locals alike. As Vice President of Food & Beverage for EMEA, Robert Juntke’s hospitality remit includes glittering rooftop bars in Dubai, beach clubs in Portugal and Michelin-starred venues across mainland Europe.

A GLOBAL APPROACH TO STAYING LOCAL

“F&B plays a major role for us; it accounts for a huge amount of our revenue shares,” explains Juntke. A large portion of Marriott’s offering, he says, is “locally-driven” which means balancing the expectations of residents in the surrounding community with the needs and desires of guests keen to enjoy regional cuisine. While the ratio of guests dining in-house is critical in resort properties and remote locations, he points out that it is also increasingly important in major cities, where choosing to eat at the hotel might not initially appear to be such a natural choice for guests. It is these locations, he says, where “we

need to make more effort to convince our guests to stay with us and dine with us”.

These efforts range from marketing and promoting F&B venues independently from the hotel itself, to building separate entrances for eateries to create boundaries between various facets of the hospitality experience. “I welcome every guest and we want to make sure that our solutions are tailored not just to the hotel guests, but to the locals too,” says Juntke.

When it comes to tapping into wider F&B trends, Juntke believes that retaining a sense of place and perspective is important – and working across a region as varied as EMEA means that there’s no shortage of inspiration. One of the biggest current trends across the board – and an area in which Marriott’s hotels are responding successfully – relates to culinary clarity, he believes. “We are very aware that our guests would like to know what they’re eating, what the supply chain is and where we source our products,” he says. “We transparently share this with our guests on site and make sure that they understand what they’re eating.”

Another trend he is focusing on involves maximising the opportunities outside of the traditional restaurant and bar set-up, using spaces to host pop-up concepts and innovative F&B activations that not only add excitement for guests but generate revenue. “A pop-up outlet in

underutilised space is something we can easily implement for a small cost and it delivers a great experience for our guests,” he points out.

THE MOST IMPORTANT MEAL OF THE DAY

If there’s one meal almost guaranteed to attract guests, it is, of course, breakfast – an area that Juntke and his team have prioritised fiercely so far this year. “Guests are super emotional about breakfast experiences at our hotels,” he divulges.

“We have driven that experience the last couple of months – very much – so that we really have a great offer in our hotels.” He says guest feedback suggests that around 70% of customers are excited about the group’s breakfast offerings, highlighting that the morning meal provides further opportunities to diversify, get creative and tie the culinary narrative to broader trends or local narratives.

One of the biggest adjustments Juntke’s team has made to the breakfast strategy has been to offer hotels more flexibility in the post-pandemic period. “We’ve been very buffet breakfastminded – in this region in particular – so we have introduced more flexibility to à la carte breakfasts, which are enjoyed by many of our guests,” he says, citing the example of a recent visit to an Autograph Collection hotel in Spain, where a Spanish breakfast for two is served on a long wooden tray, adapting the buffet concept

to bring it to the table, in effect. “Giving our hotels more flexibility in the style that they serve breakfast is critical,” he continues. “This enables the teams onsite to target the right clients and meet expectations. For example, brands like Edition exclusively serve an à la carte breakfast and are very successful with it.”

As for the future of the buffet breakfast, Juntke believes that logistical challenges and regional differences – not to mention personal preference and the element of unlimited choice – mean it may well be around for some time yet. “There are hotels that have huge volumes, and they probably need some kind of buffet offer,” he says. “The last thing guests want to do when they come for breakfast is wait, so a buffet can help in reducing waiting lines and waiting for meals.” He adds: “There are regions in Europe, the Middle East and Africa where breakfast buffets are expected – in particular in the Middle East.”

THE POWER OF TECH

Staying ahead in the modern F&B landscape means embracing evolving technology, and Juntke is keen to implement technical solutions throughout Marriott’s experiences. “There are a lot of innovative companies out there who offer amazing technology to improve dining experiences in our restaurants, and in the industry,” he says. “We monitor this carefully,

continually evaluating and making sure that we work with those innovative start-up companies to some extent to help us to drive our business.”

The group is not averse to developing its own solutions, having launched its More Cravings app in the UAE this March. The app, which pools 300 restaurants and lounges from participating Marriott Bonvoy hotels across the region and offers users dining suggestions as well as discounts and partner promotions, saw 33,000 downloads in its first three months. Though there are currently no plans to expand it internationally, Juntke believes that major F&B hubs with high numbers of Marriott destination restaurants – such as Vienna, Berlin and London – present an opportunity. “We want to introduce an amazing solution for some of those key F&B markets we have on the continent,” he hints.

For now, his focus remains on driving progress and business across EMEA, and establishing Marriott venues as dining destinations in their own right. “People like to come for breakfast when they stay with us, but the challenge is always with lunch and dinner,” he says. “So that continues to be our focus: to make sure that we offer the right concepts in the right locations, that our hotels keep the momentum and keep being creative, that we’re being innovative and have the right people on board so that we’re just the best in the market.”

BluHouse Rosewood

These days, Hong Kong’s Victoria Dockside development is a tribute to its thriving art and design scene – but when the site was founded in 1910, it was known as Holt’s Wharf, a major freight and logistics hub that helped to establish the region as a crucial global port city. So when Rosewood Hong Kong decided to open a new restaurant, design studio Afroditi naturally sought to weave the tale of its historic location through the narrative.

The name BluHouse is a reference to Blue Funnel Wharf, the Chinese translation of Holt’s Wharf, and the culinary concept also nods to the site’s international-looking origins, with a focus on everyday Italian fare.

BluHouse opened in June, with the casual eatery giving diners panoramic views of the Victoria Harbour skyline, while a more elevated offering, The Dining Room by BluHouse, followed weeks later. Both venues are overseen by Italian Chef de Cuisine Giovanni Galeota.

The main BluHouse eatery has been styled as a restaurant-café-deli, housing a La Gastronomia

counter that serves up refined Italian starters like octopus salad with Bella di Cerignola olives, and artisanal cold cuts. The La Rosticceria counter offers casual bites and hearty main courses such as fiori di zucca, a stuffed zucchini flower with smoked provola cheese, and pollo allo spiedo, a free-range yellow rotisserie chicken brined for six hours and roasted on an open flame. Braised veal osso buco prepared Milanese-style calls to mind Italy’s neighbourhood lunch spots, while a Pizza Al Taglio station serves up Roman-style pizzas by the slice.

The Dining Room by BluHouse walks the line between tradition and innovation, with signature plates served in two exclusive private dining rooms. The venue also lays claim to a wine cellar and a selection of Italian spirits that date back to the 1980s, which it uses to recreate popular aperitivo cocktails from 40 years ago with help from Urban Bar shakers and bitters bottles. Like the tale of its location, this revival of classic Italian libations serves as a reminder of Hong Kong’s storied and cosmopolitan fabric.

Carversteak Resorts World

LAS VEGAS

Words: Eleanor Howard

Photography: © Anthony Mair

In a city replete with steakhouses, it takes more than just top chops to draw in the discerning crowds that flock to Las Vegas for its swanky dining options. Enter Carversteak, a fresh take on the quintessential steakhouse experience, spread across 13,500ft2 of the newly constructed Resorts World Las Vegas complex.

In addition to the main dining room, private dining is available in The Knife Shop and Whiskey Room, two specially-designed intimate spaces with a selection of knives or whiskey bottles respectively lining the walls.

IN A BITE

Operator: Carver Road Hospitality

Interior Design: DesignAgency

Executive Chef: Daniel Ontiveros

Vice President, Beverage & Hospitality Culture: Francesco Lafranconi

Carver Road Hospitality enlisted the help of DesignAgency to develop the brand identity and put a new twist on the traditional steakhouse with an innovative blend of high-tech elements and classic glamour. The interiors are characterised by hallmarks of Art Deco and MidCentury Modern design, from parquet flooring to oak panelling and tufted banquettes, while the overarching colour palette draws inspiration from Nevada’s desert sand dunes. With lively paintings by Thomas Wachholz lining the walls, the lounge is anchored by a 70ft bar that features an LCD screen spanning its full length to display digital art or personalised content for private gatherings and live events, allowing the space to nimbly adapt to suit various occasions.

“The design is elegant and fun,” says Anwar Mekhayech, founding partner at DesignAgency. “We wanted to move the idea of a luxury steakhouse forward in an inviting and unexpected new direction. With so many unique elements, guests are able to explore and enjoy a different experience each time they visit.”

Executive Chef Daniel Ontiveros’ menu, featuring dry-aged American steaks from artisan producers and Japanese-certified wagyu steaks for which guests can choose their own knife, is paired with a dynamic beverage program from Francesco Lafranconi, Vice President of Beverage & Hospitality Culture at Carver Road Hospitality. Popular items include the baked Nevada, a reimagining of the traditional baked Alaska, with a charred pineapple compote, mixed berry sorbet and a coconut cake centre.

Zuma Waldorf Astoria

Ithaafushi

MALDIVES

Zuma has made its Indian Ocean debut with the launch of its first outpost in the Maldives. The restaurant brand, known for its contemporary adaptation of the traditional Japanese izakaya dining experience, opened its doors at the luxury Waldorf Astoria Maldives Ithaafushi this September, where it is one of 10 onsite dining venues.

Inspired by the beauty of its location on the South Malé Atoll, the interiors at the overwater eatery emphasise natural materials and local design techniques. The restaurant’s dramatic entrance combines elements of timber and granite, using lightplay to create an immersive optical illusion that leads diners into the main restaurant area. A dedicated lounge provides a quiet spot for savouring a signature cocktail or two as the sun goes down: the popular Lychee Rose Petal Martini and the Zuma Colada are both on the menu.

The Maldives venue follows the brand’s wellestablished ethos of offering a sushi counter, a main kitchen and a robata – a traditional

Japanese fishermen’s grill that uses binchotan charcoal made from burnt oak. Across the venue, diners are able to feast on the specialty dishes that have helped the chain to build its reputation internationally, with highlights on the menu including thinly-sliced seabass with yuzu, truffle oil and salmon roe, shiso ponzu butter and spicy beef tenderloin with sesame, red chilli and sweet soy.

“With its legacy of global culinary excellence, Zuma is the perfect addition to Waldorf Astoria Maldives’ fine selection of specialty dining venues,” comments Etienne Dalancon, General Manager at Waldorf Astoria Maldives Ithaafushi.

“This pristine setting surrounded by crystal blue waters, combined with Zuma’s legendary elevated izakaya concept, will provide a dream to the senses for luxury leisure seekers around the world.”

Founded in London in 2002 by Rainer Becker and Arjun Waney, Zuma is now present across 17 locations worldwide, including Dubai, New York and Miami.

The Wild Hotel by Interni MYKONOS

The Varveris family add to their empire with a new dining offer inspired by land and sea.

Wild by name, wild by nature, this 40-room hideaway perches on a windswept cliff overlooking a former fishing village in the south of Mykonos. So brave and foolhardy were its fishermen, they became locally known as ‘the wild ones’. Today, it is a tranquil spot reminiscent of simpler times, before the arrival of the jet-set and uber-luxury properties that have come to define the island in more recent years.

First opened in 2019, The Wild Hotel by Interni is owned by the Varveris family, whose founding father Nikos is a well-known entrepreneur and restaurateur on the island, having created Moda Bagno Interni, a showroom and distributorship for many leading design brands, over 30 years ago. Interni – a restaurant and bar designed by Paola Navone – followed in Mykonos Old Town in 1997, quickly establishing itself as a popular party spot, and its success has led to further restaurants, including The Grand by Interni on the rooftop of Grand Hyatt Athens and The Twenty Two in Belgrade’s Metropol Palace.

Now, Nikos’ sons Alexandros and Philip are taking the business forward with the opening of The Wild Hotel by Interni, designed in collaboration with architects Sofia and Matina Karava. “We were always captivated by people, hotels and good taste,” Alexandros explains. “A hotel in Mykonos was a natural next step for us; however, it took time to find the perfect place that could turn our dream into reality. We fell in love with this spot on sight.”

Given the brothers’ background in both design and gastronomy, it’s no surprise to find that The Wild is a beautifully appointed property with a strong F&B offer. Interiors see artisanal objects combine with handmade lamps and woven textiles for a decidedly rugged aesthetic, while the dining programme centres around Taverna, serving modern interpretations of traditional Greek recipes: aubergine, courgette and beetroot with yoghurt and dill; grilled octopus with fava beans; and pork gyros with tzatziki. As one would expect given the seafront location, perched above the Hills of Aphrodite,

Words: Matt Turner

seafood features heavily. Shrimp giouvetsi flavoured with ouzo, and, on Supper’s visit, freshly-caught red mullet simply grilled and served on a bed of greens.

Summer 2022 saw the launch of the latest addition to the hotel’s food offer. Raw is a dramatic multi-level vertical dining courtyard shaded by pine trees with mesmerising views over the hotel’s secluded beach. The cuisine here is more adventurous in outlook and international in its influence – a menu divided into ‘Land’ and ‘Sea’ roams from turf to surf with dishes such as roasted shrimp marinated with coffee and vanilla; tamarisk wild greens with spearmint, citrus and poppy seeds; Bloody Mary sea bream ceviche; beluga lentils with miso-marinated mushrooms; and grilled ribeye with aubergine purée, chimichurri sauce and grilled bok choy.

Washed down with signature cocktail The Wild – a heady mix of mezcal, mandarin purée, black salt and egg white – or a bottle of crisp Greek wine, looking out to the Aegean

over the twin hills of the Divounia peninsula (affectionately named ‘the breasts of Aphrodite’ by locals) it’s not hard to imagine what led the Varveris brothers to fall for this heavenly spot at first sight. The goddess of love and beauty would surely approve.

The hotel also offers food-loving guests the opportunity to immerse themselves in the island’s culinary culture with visits to local farms, bread-making lessons, intimate picnics and tours of the fish market. From next season, guests will also be able to take a traditional sailing boat out to nearby islands.

Concludes Alexandros: “The Wild Hotel is an expression of our family philosophy and embodies everything we love about this beautiful Cycladic island and its original ethos stemmed from the artists and free spirits who discovered it first. The hotel is like a living entity and a work-in-progress that will evolve with us over time as we collect new artwork and antiques, listen to our guests’ desires and get inspired by our own travels to dream up new experiences.”

IN A BITE

Owners: Varveris Family Architecture and Interior Design: Sofia and Matina Karava www.thewildhotel.com

© George Drakopoulos

© Christina Vlahoulis

Ace Hotel

TORONTO

A star chef signing and a wood-fired strategy has put the culinary offering at Ace Hotel’s Canadian debut on the map.

Words: Karen Burshtein

Ace Hotels – which began life at the turn of the millennium as an edgy disruptor focused on shaking up the hospitality scene in alternative US cities like Seattle and Portland, transforming existing buildings into nonchalantly creative hangouts – appears to be growing up before our eyes. At least, that’s the impression offered by the brand’s shiny new outpost in Toronto, which opened its doors this July.

The hotel – the group’s inaugural Canadian property – resides in a brand new building in the city’s historic garment district, now an artistic neighbourhood that is home to several of its most revered cultural institutions. The brainchild of celebrated Toronto firm Shim-Sutcliffe Architects, the sophisticated structure evokes a particularly Canadian spirit, with an aesthetic that nods frequently to the Toronto of old; its red brick skin and thick brick pillars an ode to the fabric of the city. The Douglas fir floors and huge oak windows also capture the metropolis’ mix of urban sobriety and woodsy-ness.

This all-Canadian philosophy also stretches to the hotel’s F&B, which encompasses a sociable venue called The Lobby and a wood-fired restaurant, Alder. Evangeline, a rooftop bar offering handcrafted cocktails, an elevated snack menu and regular DJs, is also set to open soon. There’s star power behind the stove in the form of chef Patrick Kriss, whose Alo Food Group is behind Toronto’s vaunted modern French restaurant Alo, as well as the critically acclaimed

© Ashley van der Laan (unless otherwise stated)

© William Jess Laird

Alder’s menu highlights include a halfgrilled chicken with harissa jus while The Lobby’s cocktail list includes the alcohol-free Good Vibes Only

local restaurants Aloette, Salon and Alobar Yorkville. Kriss, who was awarded the title of Outstanding Chef by Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants consecutively from 2017 to 2019, is a Toronto native whose career took off in New York, where he worked as a sous chef for culinary star Daniel Boulud at his restaurant Daniel, and latterly in Paris, where he worked in the kitchens of Régis Marcon and La Maison Troisgros. As ChefPartner at Ace Hotel Toronto he will oversee all menu options, working with Executive Chef Devin Murphy and Pastry Chef Victoria Ammendolia.

Things kick off in The Lobby, the hotel’s architectural jewel and a dramatic space featuring concrete cathedral ceilings, a statement porcelain bar and huge oak windows that invite both light and passers-by to peep in. It’s the ideal place for a craft cocktail and a spot of people watching – but art-lovers are also well catered for. Nearly 40 artists across a variety of disciplines, each with a connection to Toronto, contributed to the hotel’s art programme; The Lobby is home to two striking raw canvas pieces from Cairo-born, Toronto-based mixed media artist Nadia Gohar.

Kriss’ menu here is cultivated yet relaxed, heavy on bar-friendly snack foods such as East Coast oysters with wood-smoked cocktail sauce, horseradish and lemon, as well as grilled octopus, beef tartare, and a classic juicy burger made from ground chuck and brisket and topped with seared slices of Havarti cheese. The cocktails strike the same easy-drinking, elevated tone, with highlights including the classic Ace Martini (made here with a local gin), the curiously-

named A Driftwood Cocktail that throws together mezcal, aquavit, white port, chanterelle and cedar, and various lively non-alcoholic options such as the Good Vibes Only, a zingy combination of zero proof tequila, fermented pineapple, citrus and chilli.

While The Lobby’s design suggests adventure, Alder’s layout focuses on the grounded and the elemental, with a particular emphasis on all things wood. Alder – a word that refers to a genus of birch – is a restaurant with roots; the venue is sunk deep in the hotel, and trees are a key part of the narrative. The theme is set out by a striking artwork that leads diners down the rod-supported staircase to the venue; the three-storey installation, called Horizon Line and completed by A. Howard Sutcliffe (the architects are also artists), is an intriguing puzzle of treated and untreated plywood fragments that recalls the waves of Lake Ontario.

The space is divided into intimate little spots, with party banquettes spliced between the building’s structural frame. There are stacks of wood on prominent display, and the seating is angled to allow diners to watch the open kitchen in action. Light streams through the oversized windows, reflecting onto the custom-designed copper fixtures and making for a relaxed ambience.

The restaurant’s keystone is its wood-burning oven and grill which, Kriss explains, was a focal design point before he came on board – so he devised the food offering to match. “We were given a big grill with lots of wood, and we built a menu around it,” he recalls. “They put it on paper and we put it on a plate.”

At Alder, Kriss’ simple yet sophisticated dining experience draws on Mediterranean influences, with a focus on seasonal ingredients that are wood-grilled or wood-kissed in some way, transformed by the open flame and the smoke. “We wanted to keep the food simple and have it a little rustic yet a little elevated and elegant,” says the chef.

The service is personal – almost collaborative – with the team providing plenty of detail about each dish and how its ingredients unfold onto the palate. To start, there are the East Coast oysters again, plump and briny, as well as sharing plates of grilled San Marzano tomato with anchovy and balsamic, and roasted red pepper carpaccio with parsley, black olive and anchovy. There are also baked clams and a dish of big-eye tuna, served atop charred poblano and decorated with radishes shaved so thinly they’re transparent. Mains include black pepper ravioli with ricotta, zucchini and roasted garlic pesto, with a hint of pepper performing a little dance at the end of each bite. Juicy half grilled

chicken with harissa jus is given a kick with the addition of sweety drop pepper, and suckling pig comes served with grilled corn relish and watercress. Accompanying it all is a list of classically inspired cocktails like the Tyrian, featuring absinthe verte, browned yoghurt, pineapple and roasted coffee cream – as well as local craft beers. The eclectic selection of wines includes a house red and white specially blended and bottled by the Canadian winery Pearl Morissette.

For those with any space remaining, Alder’s gluten-free coconut cream pie is a must. Naturally, it has also had a brush with the grill: the rum-syrup-brushed macaroon cookie crust with coconut milk pastry cream comes topped with deliciously toasted coconut and caramelised white chocolate shavings. Kriss refers to it as “a wonderful palette cleanser” and it certainly packs a punch. Wood grilling, after all, is a feast for all the senses. Under Patrick Kriss’ culinary expertise, Ace Hotel Toronto is, too.

IN A BITE

Owner: Alterra, B-right, Finer Space Corporation, Prowinko, Zinc Developments

Operator: Ace Hotel

Architecture: Shim-Sutcliffe Architects

Interior Design: Atelier Ace, Shim-Sutcliffe Architects

F&B Consultant: Alo Food Group

Chef-Partner: Patrick Kriss

Executive Chef: Devin Murphy

Pastry Chef: Victoria Ammendolia

F&B Manager: Amy Mullett

Mixologist: Sam Wilson www.acehotel.com

© William Jess Laird

Fari Marina Village MALDIVES

In the Fari Islands, a collaborative social hub sees Patina and The RitzCarlton dish up everything from Lebanese classics to on-the-go burgers.

There was a palpable buzz surrounding the opening of Patina and The Ritz-Carlton when they opened in the Maldives. Set on Fari Islands, an archipelago in the North Malé atoll, the hotels form part of a glamorous new marina that will eventually comprise a trio of brands when they are joined by the upcoming Capella, due to open in 2025.

Spread over three idyllic palm tree-fringed islands, the 100-villa Ritz-Carlton was the final project from Kerry Hill – the architect behind some of Asia’s most iconic hotels from The Datai to Amankora – before his passing in 2018. A five-minute boat ride across the waters, meanwhile, is Patina – the work of Brazilian architect Marcio Kogan and his firm Studio MK27.

Fari Marina Village, the beating heart of all three resorts, is located on the same island as Patina. Not only is it home to world-class berthing facilities, fashion boutiques and an art gallery; it also has substantial culinary draw. Its collection of beachside restaurants runs the gamut from casual to refined, featuring an upscale venue from Michelin-starred chef Nick Bril, as well as crowd-pleasing burger and gelato trucks.

Two of the outlets here fall under The Ritz-Carlton’s remit, while the remaining six are managed by Patinawhich was recently given a further boost with the arrival of a new Culinary Director, chef John Bakker. With a global pedigree and a wealth of Maldivian experience thanks to a stint at the renowned Gili Lankanfushi, it’s clear Bakker is the type of all-rounder perfect for taking things to the next

level. At Patina, he hopes to develop something similar to the kitchen garden he created at Gili Lankanfushi, harnessing technological contraptions such as a biodigester to encourage plant growth in the infamously innutritious coral sand. “The real reason to have a garden is not necessarily to walk guests around and say we’re producing cucumbers here,” says Bakker. “People might not recognise it, but the Maldives actually has its own terroir. The food grown on the islands – with the salt, alkalinity and the sea air – changes the taste of things. The more we can implement this into the everyday, the more people will get a true taste of what the Maldivian experience actually is.”

As the garden won’t yield enough produce to facilitate all of Patina’s 12 outlets, Bakker says that once complete, its organic, homegrown fare will be used to best effect in Roots, a slow-food, plant-based restaurant. Roots, alongside the poolside eatery Veli Bar, Asian-focused Wok Society and Aegean kitchen Helios, are located separately from Fari Marina Village, but tied to the complex through a sense of unity crafted by Kogan and his team. “We wanted the restaurants to be seen as unique experiences,” says Pedro Ribeiro, Architect and Project Manager at Studio MK27. “At the same time, we wanted to keep an overall coherence among the whole island, so we tried to have different approaches by changing the materials, the colour palette and the layout - which is sometimes more intimate and at other times more connected to the views and the sea.”

Lauren Ho

Photography:

Georg Roske (unless

The vast range of dining experiences across the resort includes a plant-based restaurant, fine-dining Japanese-Nordic eatery and Asian food trailer

This connection to the surroundings is particularly striking in the eateries of Fari Marina Village. Here, with powdery white sand underfoot and palm trees swaying gently in the breeze, guests will find Brasa, a Patagonia-inspired restaurant that embraces openfire cooking with a focus on premium meat cuts. Its surroundings are subtly luxurious, with natural materials including wood and stone striking the balance between industrial and beachy. The tablescape too is intentionally understated, with drinkware from Zwiesel Glas – such as the elegant Belfesta glass –contributing to the aesthetic.

Farine, a private cheese and wine space, takes guests on a journey through global vineyards and fromageries, while at Kōen, a fine-dining JapaneseNordic dining room, premium ingredients take centre stage. There is also the Tuk Tuk Gelato, which serves free ice cream on tap, and Go-Go, a fun burger truck whose menu includes the indulgent Royal, made with a wagyu beef patty, seared foie gras, truffle and Comté cheese, served in a gold-leaf bun. The Ritz-Carlton’s Asian food trailer Tum Tum serves up steamed dumplings, juicy bao buns, aromatic soups and noodle

dishes from across the continent, while its Bedouininspired Lebanese-Indian restaurant Arabesque is set in a vibrant sunken dining room, decorated with hanging lanterns and rich fabrics.

The venues are all anchored by Fari Beach Club, which is centrally located among the hub of restaurants next to a chilled beachside pool lined with shady cabanas. The slick open-plan space is helmed by twoMichelin-starred chef and DJ Nick Bril, best known for fusing food and music. Bril says: “The philosophy behind Fari Beach Club is connected to the numerous elements I try to incorporate when creating a culinary moment. Usually the aromas, textures, flavours and colours that food offers amplifies our senses. But at Fari Beach Club, we use sound, architectural textures, and vibrations to create a multi-sensory experience.”

And so, against a soundtrack of curated beats, guests might begin the experience by sipping on creative cocktails – each of which is accompanied by its own song, playable through the digital menu – before indulging in dishes such as the fresh yellowtail tuna tartare topped with wasabi ponzu, or burrata and shiso from the crudo bar, followed by creative plates like

tiger prawn BBQ served with carrot, samphire, sea grass and coconut. All this in a meticulously designed space that, like the rest of the resort, is a mix of rustic elements and natural textures, alongside sharper design pieces.

This aesthetic flows fluidly throughout the entire resort, from the villas where a minimalist black floor lamp sits next to a rattan chair and an organically shaped wooden stool, to Kōen. Here, anchored by a long stone dining bar from where guests watch their meals being cooked, the interior aesthetic takes its cues from the restaurant’s Nordic-Japanese concept with a sleek, minimal foundation of natural stone and warm woods in neutral tones, accented with rustic bamboo bar stools. From behind the bar, Tony Lievaux, Patina’s Executive Sous Chef, chats passionately about the provenance of the ingredients used, while plating up elegantlooking dishes such as fresh king crab served with dashi butter and topped with caviar, cauliflower crunch and sharp pops of finger lime. “There are a lot of similarities between

Nordic and Japanese ingredients,” he says. “In fact, the Nordic countries are on the same Latitude as Japan.”

At Kōen, the food is presented on statement porcelain from Spanish company Pordamsa and the drinks served in Zwiesel Glas receptacles, while the fine linen napkins and crockery from Bali-based Kevala Ceramics can also be found in the other restaurants. “The design is key to the overall restaurant experience,” says Ribeiro. “It can’t be dissociated from the food, so it was important for us to give potential to the cuisine and the chef.”

The sentiment is echoed by Renata Furlanetto, who worked closely alongside Marcio Kogan on perfecting the resort’s architecture. “We wanted to create a new destination for the Maldives,” she concludes. “In every meeting we talked more about food, music and art, rather than just architecture. The brief was always open and inspiring and being able to design everything on the island, alongside various collaborators, was a rare opportunity.”

IN A BITE

Developer: Pontiac Land Group

Operator: Capella Hotel Group, Patina

Hotels & Resorts, Marriott International

Architecture: Kerry Hill Architects

Interior Design: Studio MK27

Culinary Director: John Bakker

F&B Manager: Hussain Ahusan

Head of Bars & Mixology: Jan Jurecka

Chief Sommelier: Jude Perera

Dinnerware: Kevala Ceramics

Glassware: Zwiesel Glas www.patinahotels.com www.ritzcarlton.com

© Felix Hug

Journey

150 years of Zwiesel Glas - Sounds like a great history.

Milestones in the 150-year history of Zwiesel Glas are represented in a linear relief pattern in the glass stems in this five-piece set. They connect together the past, present and future. Bordeaux, Burgundy, white wine, allround and sparkling wine glasses form an ensemble representing the historical highlights of Zwiesel Glas, and make every moment of pleasure tangible. This unique range emerged from a partnership with renowned designer Sebastian Herkner.

Zwiesel Glas x Sebastian Herkner

El Vicenç de la Mar

MALLORCA

A new boutique hotel on Mallorca’s rugged coast gives a local Michelin-starred chef the chance to spotlight the island’s cuisine.

At the North-Eastern tip of the Mallorcan coastline, where jagged cliffs fall away into azure waters and pastel villas dot the sun-baked scrubland of the surrounding hills, lies the resort village of Cala Sant Vicenç. Known for its turquoise coves and sunlit beaches, this village at the foot of the Serra de Tramuntana mountains has a glamorous past: in the Fifties, the jet-set flocked to the rugged and wind-whipped northern part of the island in search of the quintessential Balearic summer. But over the decades, the hedonists moved on to pastures new, and the resort slipped into life as a family-friendly holiday spot.

Recent years, however, have seen a something of a rejuvenation: today Sant Vicenç’s balmy waters are dotted with the white sails of sleek catamarans, as well as the foamy explosions of kids jumping giddily from the rocks. This chic return to form was confirmed in May with the arrival of El Vicenç de la Mar, a Design Hotels member and sleek, 35-key boutique hotel that overlooks the dreamy Cala Molins Cove.

It’s a landscape Santi Taura knows well. The Michelin-starred chef grew up in Lloseta, a village of around 5,000 inhabitants in the centre of Mallorca, about 40 minutes from this part of the coast. His food is steeped in the flavours and traditions of the island and his career –since the launch of a debut restaurant in his grandmother’s house in Lloseta – has seen him pay tribute to its produce and to its culinary identity, which, like the languages spoken here, often combines Mallorcan, Catalan and Castilian Spanish influences.

Taura heads up the fine-dining venue El Llorenç and the Michelin-starred restaurant DINS Santi Taura at The Mallorca Ç Collection’s sister hotel El Llorenç Parc de la Mar in Palma, making him an obvious choice to oversee the culinary offering at El Vicenç. He has crafted the menus both for U Mayol, a casual lunchtime bistro situated on the ground floor of the hotel, and for the fine-dining rooftop eatery Restaurant El Vicenç, which comes into its own in the evening, offering expansive sea views.

Words: Shanna McGoldrick • Photography: Courtesy of El Vicenç de la Mar

The culinary offering across the resort pairs traditional croquettes and toasted bread with fresh anchovies and seasonal vegetables

Unsurprisingly, seafood is central to the menus at both restaurants. “Local products make up approximately 75% of our offer,” explains Taura. “Whenever I think of a new recipe, I always think of Mallorca first and the rich variety of products we have right here on the island, from seafood to salt, pork and special tomatoes. We even use honey from a local apiary.”

At U Mayol, this approach translates to an F&B programme that spans traditional cocktails and generous sharing plates, with a keen emphasis on the catch of the day. Here, sunkissed diners – most of them not long out of the water themselves – are presented with an ever-changing specials list showcasing freshlycaught fish, ranging from tuna or John Dory to red snapper and seabass, cooked over coals so that the charred, bubbled skin reveals flakiest tender meat underneath. Presented simply with silky potatoes and a sauce of the fish’s own juice, the dishes encapsulate the simple, hearty, but expertly executed ethos of U Mayol. Also

on the menu are a range of traditional starters, including acorn-fed Iberian ham Cortegana and toasted bread with deliciously briny anchovies. Sharing plates include Gillardeau natural oysters, squid served Andalusian style with tzatziki sauce, and hearty paellas, while Taura’s favourite dish is the prawn salad, which he explains is a typical dish for Mallorcans to enjoy when spending Sundays at the beach with their families.

A discreet and attentive team of waiters is also happy to guide diners through the dessert list, which takes diners on a nostalgic spin with its retro Mallorcan favourites. Highlights include the zingy lemon bomb with homemade tart citrus ice cream, and a classic Mallorcan bonbon, a sweet concoction of chocolate-coated vanilla ice cream. “When we think of U Mayol, we think of an informal seafood restaurant where you can come to eat and refresh yourself during a day at the beach, in a place with local products, elaborations and a well-cared-for environment,” concludes Taura.

The atmosphere at the Restaurant El Vicenç, meanwhile, is both more formal and intimate, with the secluded, candlelit tables facing out to sea. “We envisioned the Vicenç as an ideal place to end the day, with a classic menu, good product and the mixing of both local and international dishes,” elaborates Taura. “Accompanied, of course, by a good selection of wines and cocktails to enjoy while the night falls and the moon rises in Molins Cove.” The menu caters to the hotel’s well-heeled clientele with European-inspired dishes such as steak tartar (served with Mallorcan brown bread) and chateaubriand carpaccio, but still puts more traditionally Mediterranean cuisine in the spotlight. Starters and nibbles include classic cod croquettes and a Mallorcan soup called ‘manjar blanc’ of lobster, while the mains focus on festive dishes such as red mullet fillets with Ibicencan ‘bullit’ sauce and porc negre suckling pig, which the chef was keen to include as it is widely recognised as a national dish of celebration in Mallorca.

Taura’s established relationships with local suppliers ensure that the freshest produce is used his kitchens. “Many are small, specialised producers, which makes the dishes so special,” he says. He also relies on his Executive Chef, Jaume Comas, who controls the group’s restaurants on days when he himself is in the kitchen at DINS Santi Taura. “We have been together for 12 years and professionally we are the same person,” he asserts.

After years at the helm of his restaurants in Palma, how did Taura adapt his approach for El Vicenç? He says that while his venues in the capital deal in “a historical and cosmopolitan offering,” the new hotel’s location sets it apart from the bustle of urban life, requiring a different culinary programme. “At El Vicenç we are in a city located in one of the most historical and beautiful parts of the Balearic Islands,” he highlights. “By the cove, the focus of the noontime is the beach and family life, while at night, we complement the area with and idyllic and romantic offering.”

IN A BITE

Interior Design: Magnis Ehrland

Corporate Executive Chef: Jaume Comas, Group Santi Taura

Beverage Director: Joan Arboix

www.elvicenc.com

Operator: Mallorca Ç Collection

Architecture: Rafael Balaguer

Creator-Chef: Santi Taura, Group Santi Taura

Glassware: Schott Zwiesel

W Algarve PORTUGAL

W Hotels pays a sophisticated tribute to Portuguese history and culture with its vibrant new beachshide offering.

Jointly conceived by Divercity Architects and AB Concept, W Hotels’ first project in Portugal draws inspiration from the rugged portion of the southern coastline it overlooks and the region’s fascinating art, traditions and history, going as far back as the Moorish occupation of the Algarve, which lasted from the eighth to the 13th century. Overseen by Executive Chef Nuno Goncalves, who returned to Portugal after 13 years in London, where he worked at restaurants including Aqua Shard and The Wolseley, the W Algarve’s F&B offer is similarly rooted in its locale.

This local inspiration is evident from the off, thanks to a bold fish-scale installation that blankets the building, extending in the shape of a wave over the grand entrance to crash just behind the brand’s distinctive welcome W. A nod to the property’s seafront location and fishing traditions, it also serves the crucial function of keeping the corridors and public spaces cool – the sun shines at least 300 days of the year in the Algarve.

Once inside, guests are greeted with a feature wall bedecked in handmade Portuguese pottery by Vista Alegre, an almost 200-year-old porcelain craft company. At this point, they have the choice of turning left and entering the W Lounge or heading right and down to the hotel’s all day dining venue, the Market Kitchen. The asymmetrical wayfinding was inspired by the destination’s iconic curved Benagil caves and continues throughout the property. Other recurring design

Words: Elly Earls • Photography: Courtesy of W Algarve (unless otherwise stated)

W Algarve’s F&B focus is on healthy, Mediterranean-inspired food and drink made with authentic Portuguese ingredients

features include Portuguese tiles, pottery and crochet patterns as well as pebble and wave motifs.

It all comes from the imagination of interior designer Ed Ng, the co-founder of AB Concept, who is well-versed in both working with the W brand and creating restaurants and bars that can shift between day and night, marrying function and flair.

“AB Concept and the team of designers are experts in understanding F&B concepts,” says General Manager Cajetan Araujo. “They managed to strike the balance between flexibility and understanding operational needs, and strong visuals and aesthetics. The W Lounge showcase bar is a great example; it is functional inside and out but also showcases beverages and mixology in a way that highlights the design elements and combines with the concept of our mixology.”

The cocktail list is based around the concept of foraging and uses purely local ingredients, including sweet paprika, fig, Pasteis de Belem and seaweed. The greens, blues and turquoises of the design underline the botanical elements in the drinks, but Ng was also keen to bring in some historical inspiration. The

pendant-shaped lights are giant versions of Moorish earrings, while the circles that make up the waveshaped seating nooks hark back to the semi-precious stones and metal studs that are often inlaid in Moorish jewellery and clothing.

A level down, and leading out via a spacious terrace to the W’s enormous gardens, Market Kitchen is Ng’s interpretation of a modern marketplace. Traditional Portuguese elements include the azulejo tiled communal table, perfect for indulging in the sharing menu, the large windows reminiscent of the typical houses of Alfama, one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Lisbon, and the drawings on the floor representing Calçada Portuguesa patterned pavements.

Must-tries on the menu include the Ria Formosa oysters, the catch of the day from the fish market, and fresh sushi handmade before diners’ eyes by the resident sushi chef. There are hearty meat and seafood dishes grilled on a Parilla Grill from Kopa, as well as casual eats like oven-baked pizzas.

The vast scale of the site really becomes apparent from Market Kitchen’s sun-flooded terrace. The gardens in this area of the grounds are purposefully a

blank canvas so stages can be set up for outdoor events, but one permanent fixture is the W’s signature Wet Deck. Lounging on a bed or a cabana by the curved double level infinity pool, guests can order healthy quick bites including fresh oysters or ahi tuna poke bowls.

According to Araujo, the only hard part is choosing which cocktail to accompany them. Among the selection are the Japanese Smuggler, with Beefeater gin, sake, pea juice, cucumber, wasabi and sesame, or the Kacharita, with Don Julio Blanco, triple sec, citric, kombucha and agave. By night, the entertainment space has already become known for its Saturday Wet Deck Summer Series, hosting artists including Ravin, MoBlack and Chima Hiro.

W is no longer as focused on attracting partygoers as it previously might have been, however. Ng’s design approach was informed by the fact that the brand is looking to become more sophisticated. “W is undergoing a period of reinvention,” he says, wandering towards the sea, past beds of lavender and rosemary that give way to olive trees an eventually a clearing on the cliff edge. Discussions are underway about placing a seafood restaurant here – there is certainly no better spot for it. “It would have a 360-degree view and be made from lightweight sustainable materials,” he says.

Market Kitchen puts a modern twist on the classic marketplace, while Paper Moon specialises in adapted Italian recipes

© Brandon Barré ©

Brandon Barré

In the meantime, 40 years after its original opening in the heart of Milan’s fashion district, Paper Moon is the restaurant that the W Algarve has been most celebrated for. On the top floor with spectacular views of the grounds, the region, the ocean and the sunset, the sister to the original Milanese restaurant serves original Italian recipes, adapted using local and seasonal ingredients - the spaghetti vongole in particular is not to be missed - as well as local fish and seafood specialities.

Highlights include grilled market fish and crustaceans with Sicilian vegetable caponata; grilled monkfish with Jerusalem artichoke purée, baby fennel and tomato confit; and ricotta gnocchi with courgette cream and langoustine tartare. Any of these can be delightfully paired with a fresh Portuguese vinho verde, which the waiters are only too happy to recommend. “The idea was to showcase Paper Moon recipes and dishes to the audience here to absolute precision, allowing guests to taste what makes it so special,” Araujo says.

On the design front, elegant blacks, whites, greys and greens are combined in the palette of the soft furnishings to set off a bright white interior and exterior created with white timber and monochrome floors. “We wanted it to have a chic Mediterranean feel,” says Ng. Of course, there are local touches, too, such as the Portuguese tiles on the pizza oven and the framed black and white photos – all beach and ocean themed.

The adjacent Sea Sky terrace is the perfect place for a pre-dinner cocktail - there are five botanical specialities to choose from - or a post-pizza digestif. On Fridays and Saturdays throughout the summer, guests can also enjoy sunset sessions with international DJs.

Leaving behind the deep colours and intricate local patterns that swirl throughout this property and complement its menus will elicit the most Portuguese emotion there is from most guests. A feeling of ‘saudade’: a yearning for happiness that has passed. They will always have the memories.

IN A BITE

Operator: Marriott International

Architecture: Divercity Architects

Interior Design: AB Concept

Executive Chef: Nuno Goncalves

Grill: Kopa

Buffetware: Craster

Glassware: MyGlass Studio www.marriott.com

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100% Vanille La Galerie Hôtel Plaza Athénée

As Executive Chef at La Galerie at Paris’s Hôtel Plaza Athénée, award-winning pâtissier Angelo Musa has long wowed diners with his elegant teatime treats, of which the 100% Vanille is a firm favourite. “Vanilla has become my most beloved ingredient and features extensively in my work,” says Musa of his signature dessert, which forms part of a collection developed to showcase multiple facets of singular ingredients. “For 100% Vanille it takes the leading role, where only a deep understanding of the product can aim to reach my ambition: to be taken aback by the sophistication of a single fragrance showcasing all of its flavours, an ode to my pastry philosophy.”

The vanilla-almond sponge cake is encased in a vanilla-white chocolate mousse, topped with a crunchy vanilla-almond croustillant

and covered with vanilla crémeux. The base is dipped in a white chocolate and hazelnut glaze, while the top is sprinkled with grated vanilla beans.

“My main concern is paying homage to the product by respecting its taste and balance,” says Musa, who was offered his role at the Plaza Athénée after Alain Ducasse tasted the treat. “In this signature dessert, vanilla is the centrepiece, and to enhance the fragrance I use Bourbon vanilla beans from Madagascar; they are sought after for their deep aromas and rich flavours.”

Line Caught Pollack The Idle Rocks

Harbourside hideaway The Idle Rocks epitomises the charm of the British seaside: hugging the coastline of the Cornish town of St Mawes, the hotel is known for its culinary offering, with Executive Head Chef Dorian Janmaat putting sustainable local produce front and centre. It is an approach encapsulated by his signature, Line Caught Pollack, which sees the regional species paired with pickled mussels and a hearty brandade. “Pollack is quite a meaty fish and sometimes can be a little bland, so we decided to pair it with some beautiful, pickled Fowey mussels,” says Janmaat. “These mussels are big and succulent and pair perfectly with a sharp sauce vierge.”

The filleted and skinned pollack, which is caught locally on a single line, is roasted to perfection and enhanced by the acidity of mussels cooked in white wine, plunged into iced water and pickled again in the same cooking juices, along with banana shallots, garlic, verjus vinegar, olive oil and various fresh herbs – including Cornish saffron picked and dried on the nearby Roseland peninsula. The brandade features pollack trim poached in milk and served with seasoned mashed potato, and the sauce vierge, made from finely chopped plum tomatoes, salted anchovies and Kalamata olives, provides a jolt of tangy sweetness.

“I love the pure simplicity of this dish,” says Janmaat. “The ingredients combined have a great impact in terms of flavour and freshness.” And as the summer fades, the dish will evolve further. “Next up, we plan to incorporate some heritage beetroots and our own preserved lemon to ensure the dish evolves through the seasons.”

COFFEE AT ITS FINEST:

ICONIC HOPPER DESIGNED TO BE ADMIRED

Grow Your Own Way

Aware of a growing demand for transparent sustainable culinary narratives, the palace hotels of Paris are increasingly growing their own produce close to home.

Words: Nicola Leigh Stewart

It’s not just a garden, it’s about creating a better place,” says Chef Simone Zanoni. “The garden is part of a world we are creating at the Le George restaurant.” Italian-born Zanoni, who was raised by his grandmother on a farm whose fresh produce inspired his passion for cooking, is referring to the kitchen garden located in the greater Paris region by the Palace of Versailles that supplies his Michelinstarred restaurant Le George at Four Seasons Hotel George V. Zanoni has become something of a sustainability pioneer after launching the project back in 2018, but increasingly finds himself one of a growing number of Parisian palace chefs who are choosing to grow their own produce to supply their restaurants – some of the most revered in the French capital – with bona fide local produce.

Also buying into the trend is The Peninsula Paris, whose 350m2 rooftop aromatic garden supplies chef David Bizet’s illustrious Michelin-starred eatery L’Oiseau Blanc with around 20 types of herbs and select seasonal fruits and vegetables ranging from strawberries to peppers. “Having respect for our land and its bounty, using homegrown local and seasonal produce, has always been a passion of my

culinary work,” says Bizet. “We are very fortunate to have our own small oasis to grow fresh vegetables and herbs for use in L’Oiseau Blanc’s kitchen.” And since April, The Ritz Paris (which can’t claim palace status but whose enduring prestige makes it a favourite with local gourmands) has also been taking delivery of fresh produce from its own kitchen garden located 30km from the city centre, having set itself the goal of cultivating 70% of the fruits and vegetables it serves within the next three years. The crates of freshly harvested produce that have so far passed through the hotel’s doors have been destined for its all-day dining spot Bar Vendôme, where they are transformed into the venue’s signature business lunch dishes and detox juices.

Over at the two-Michelin-starred Restaurant Le Meurice Alain Ducasse, meanwhile, Amaury Bouhours is also championing the movement. When the culinary heavyweight took over as Executive Chef of the venue in 2020, he expressed a clear intention to revamp the menu and work more sustainably with local producers. And behind the scenes he had already set the wheels in motion – establishing a relationship with the artistic collective Parti Poétique, whose

At Restaurant Le Meurice Alain Ducasse, Amaury Bouhours is championing the growyour-own movement, using produce from the hotel’s own urban garden in his dishes

founder Olivier Darné had previously produced honey for Le Meurice on a patch of land in the multicultural and industrialised inner-city neighbourhood of Saint Denis, just 500m from the nearest metro station. That land is now Zone Sensible, a one-hectare urban garden and community project managed by Parti Poétique, which cultivates more than 200 different vegetables and supplies Bouhours’ kitchen. “Ecology is a vital subject for us now and as a palace hotel, and as a restaurant, we have a role to play in the future of food,” says Bouhours, explaining that when Darné approached him and Ducasse with the idea of collaborating on a garden, developing the relationship further felt like a natural progression.

With both Zanoni and Bouhours working in their respective kitchens, a team of specialised gardeners have been charged with overseeing each space, establishing procedures to grow the high-quality produce expected of a palace hotel. For Zanoni, this means taking a “more than organic approach” to growing his vegetables, which include different varieties of tomatoes, baby cucumbers, beetroot, cabbage, leeks, and herbs like mint and lemon basil. He uses no chemicals on the land – going above and beyond France’s regulations on the matter of organic food, which still permit the use of certain products. “It’s a challenge, but it’s possible,” he insists. Some of the all-natural methods he favours are less than conventional – like the practice of playing soundwaves to plants from the garden’s music box. Research has pointed to the possibility that plants responding to sound waves might promote growth, and Zanoni swears by the efficacy of the approach.

Over at Zone Sensible, Head Gardener Franck Ponthier has taken a permaculture approach to planting and welcomes animals into the garden to eat pests and unwanted vegetation. “Instead of putting chemicals in the soil, we put in two or three ducks,” explains Bouhours.

Although neither garden is particularly large, both proffer a surprisingly bountiful harvest for their respective restaurants. In spring and summer, Bouhours is able to source around

AMAURY BOUHOURS

stock the kitchen shelves in the colder months. “We have to be realistic. We’re not in the south of France,” agrees Zanoni, who recently lost a batch of lemon trees imported from Lake Garda due to inclement weather, and will now have to wait around another five years before finding out if he’ll get any fruit from those that survived. Predictably, climate change is another issue, with Bouhours citing the recent summer heatwaves as a difficult period – “It can burn the plants,” he explains – and the unexpected frost of spring 2021 as another. “We know the climate is changing from year to year and it makes things complicated,” he concludes.

20-25% of the seasonal fruit and vegetables used in the kitchens of Le Meurice from Zone Sensible, where the produce he grows seasonally includes blackcurrants, raspberries, rhubarb and courgettes, as well as a raft of plants and herbs such as verbena, thyme, rosemary, chocolate mint and purple basil. Zanoni gets an even bigger haul from his 0.2-hectare kitchen garden, which provides him with 30-40% of the vegetables that feature on his Mediterraneaninspired menus. “This isn’t a few plants on a rooftop,” he stresses. “This is a real situation and a considerable amount of vegetables.”

As for the difficulties of working with urban gardens, both chefs cite grey Parisian skies and the city’s cool climate as challenging. Bouhours admits that during the winter very few of his ingredients come from the garden, with the chef relying on his network of French producers to

These seasonal fluctuations in the volume and variety of produce naturally influence what arrives on the plate. At Le Meurice, the menu usually changes once a month but there is no set rhythm; Bouhours simply follows the natural cadence of the garden. Dishes are designed to showcase the season’s produce and highlight each flavour at its fullest – before summer, for example, a bounty of blackcurrants led to the fruit popping up across the menu and in digestive drinks. “For me, the garden is like my laboratory,” he says. “Its proximity to the hotel allows me to go and see what’s growing, to visit the team, taste things together and see what is working. The space allows me to think, to advance and to construct.”

Zanoni has a similar process; he and his team of Le George chefs head over to Versailles two or three times a week with no set idea of what they might return with for the lunch service. “We can’t always control what grows well so we adapt to the garden and let nature tell us what to put on the plate,” he explains. “This year we have a lot of courgettes, for example, so we needed to find a way to use them and not waste them. Whatever I have, I put on the menu, if I don’t have it, I don’t.” Getting the whole team involved also forms part of the chef’s commitment to sustainability, in educating the next generation on the importance of knowing where their food comes from. “The gardeners grow the produce but they don’t pick it – that’s the job of the chefs,” says Zanoni. “I want them

“The garden is like my laboratory. Its proximity to the hotel allows me to go and see what’s growing, to visit the team, taste things together and see what is working.”

to get their hands dirty, to understand that green beans aren’t straight and tomatoes aren’t perfectly round; that’s not nature.”

Back at the hotels and in the kitchen, both chefs are building on their work by implementing additional environmentally-friendly initiatives. From zero-waste policies at Le Meurice to oyster mushrooms grown from used coffee grounds at Le George, both hotels are leading the way in changing how Paris’ palace restaurants operate in terms of sustainability. “There was a time when we took the best and threw away the rest,” says Bouhours. “Now we try to optimise the product and use it to the maximum.” Zanoni’s commitment has earned Le George a Michelin Green Star – which recognises establishments that hold themselves accountable for their ethical and environmental standards – while Le Restaurant Le Meurice Alain Ducasse has received the highest award possible from Écotable, a French organisation that rates the country’s restaurants on their commitment to sustainability. Zanoni’s work has also caught the eye of those further up the corporate chain

at Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts, with the group now looking to its only Paris address as a model of sustainability in terms of practices that could potentially be rolled out to properties in additional locations.

The changes haven’t gone unnoticed by diners either, who are becoming increasingly curious about the story behind their food. Bouhours has wondered about organising garden visits for Le Meurice guests, although for the moment he prefers to concentrate on their experience within the hotel and restaurant itself. Zanoni, however, has created a client experience that begins with an early morning drive to the garden in an electric Porsche and finishes with a private cooking lesson and lunch back at the hotel. There are also plans to install a kitchen in the garden, in order to be able to move the full experience outdoors. Guests have been so enthusiastic that Zanoni’s calendar regularly fills up, forcing him to occasionally pause the programme. “We have very loyal clients who are interested in what we are doing,” he says. “They know this is going to be the future.”

“We can’t always control what grows well so we adapt to the garden and let nature tell us what to put on the plate.”

SIMONE ZANONI

Chef Simone Zanoni offers guest experiences at the gardens of Four Seasons Hotel George V

© Anne Emmanuelle Thion

The World’s 50 Best Restaurants

Hotel restaurants step into the spotlight at the awards ceremony celebrating the most exciting dining venues around the globe.

The global restaurant industry’s most talented professionals convened at London’s Old Billingsgate on 18 July, for the live awards ceremony of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2022, sponsored by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna and hosted by actor and gourmet Stanley Tucci. The ranking recognises the most cutting-edge teams and venues across the sector, with this year’s list spanning eateries from an impressive 24 countries across five continents. While the chefs and culinary teams mingled, Illy – the official coffee sponsor of the event – offered guests the chance to create their own unique 100% Arabica blend by mixing nine different ingredients to reach a personal balance of aromas and flavours.

Geranium in Copenhagen was crowned the World’s Best Restaurant for 2022, taking over top spot from the city’s legendary Noma, which was elevated to the Best of the Best hall of fame. Led by chef Rasmus Kofoed – who recently took the decision to remove meat from the menu –its mission is to create food that awakens the

senses, with William Drew, Director of Content for The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, calling it “an unforgettable dining experience.”

Hotel restaurants were also well represented in the rankings, with Diverxo at NH Collection Madrid Eurobuilding claiming the fourth spot on the list thanks to Dabiz Muñoz’s wildly creative, avant-garde approach to Asian-inspired cuisine. Italian properties scored highly, with chef Niko Romito’s Reale at a 16 th-century former monastery in the Abruzzo region taking 15th place, and St Hubertus in the San Cassiano Hotel Rosa Alpina coming in at 29 as a new entry. Slovenian foodie bolthole Hiša Franko took 34th place, while Jordnær in Copenhagen’s sleek Gentofte Hotel made its debut on the list at 38, and Schloss Schauenstein in Switzerland came in at number 40. The 100-51 ranking also featured several hotel venues, with Sézanne at Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo Marunouchi and Indian Accent at The Lodhi Hotel just some of the establishments honoured.

overleaf for the hotel restaurant countdown...

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© Francesco Fioramonti

STARRING VIRNA TOPPI

MICHELE PICCOLO ANDREA OFFREDI

A FILM BY CARLO GUTTADAURO

GENIUS MOVES THEWORLD

Canova

Noelani

The American Bar The Sta ord

There’s sorcery in the air at The Stafford’s historic venue The American Bar, where the new cocktail menu, The Alchemy of Equilibrium, weaves together the natural elements of water, earth, air and fire with the aim of highlighting the harmonious fifth element of quintessence.

Each is depicted by four aesthetically dramatic drinks. Representing water is Noelani, a vaporous and aquatic mixture created from Bayou Reserve rum made with sugarcane grown in the Mississippi River delta, gunpowder tea, pear, ginger, honey and citrus.

“This cocktail represents mist,” explains Director of Mixology Salvatore Megna, who dreamed up the menu

alongside Director of The American Bar Benoit Provost.

“The idea was to recreate the mystery of something visually beautiful that emerges from the mist.”

To concoct the drink, Megna shakes all the ingredients together to release their individual flavours before straining the liquid into a glass, adding ice and garnishing with a beguiling strip of gold leaf for a final dash of glamour. But despite its striking appearance, his main goal is that the drink remains tasty enough to elicit repeat orders. “My hope with this cocktail is to marry perfectly balanced ingredients that guests can enjoy and drink again and again, whilst representing the element associated with it,” he says.

A historic and emblematic signature of Palmer & Co, each Grands Terroirs cuvée expresses the quintessence of our Premier and Grand Cru vineyards of the Montagne de Reims in an exceptional vintage.

Aqua Vitae Terrazza 241 Hilton Lake Como

When Terrazza 241 – a breezy rooftop venue offering sweeping views of Italy’s third-largest lake – decided to launch a new Earth-inspired cocktail menu called Habitat, its team took inspiration from the natural world, referencing destinations as far-flung as Japan and Peru. But there’s one drink on the list that looks much closer to home.

Capped with a smoky dome, Aqua Vitae is a fruity libation that tells the tale of the humble grape. Each of its ingredients – Lillet-infused Sogno d’Amore, strawberry grapes, rosé champagne and four drops of grappa – are processed from the fruit. “The cocktail tells the story of the evolution of this product, from the moment it is harvested from the plant to the moment it is distilled, to the moment it evaporates in a smoke

bubble,” explains Head Bartender Ludmilla Samohin. “Grapes are the soul of this cocktail.”

The ingredients are shaken and double-strained, lending the Aqua Vitae a similar texture to a refined champagne cocktail. It is decorated with flowers and capped with a non-alcoholic bubble that contains fruity notes similar to those often present in wine.

“I want our guests to have an immersive experience and understand the soul of the drink,” says Samohin. “The strong taste of grappa and at the same time the delicate taste of champagne should be perceived in the glass.” She adds: “My favourite thing about the drink is the fact that there is a common thread connecting all the ingredients; they all have the same chemical composition.”

to Genius

Martin Miller’s Gin Winterful Gin

Inspired by botanicals commonly used in homemade mulled wine recipes in both England and Iceland, Winterful Gin pays homage to Martin Miller’s dual heritage, which sees its English distilled gin blended with the purest Icelandic spring water for its signature smooth taste and soft mouth feel. The winter edition is created from the brand’s signature twin-distilled Original blend, a delicate balance of citrus and juniper. Botanicals associated with England and Iceland’s winter tastes – namely cinnamon and mandarin orange peel – are then added via a third distillation. On the palate, the seasonal spirit offers warm and complex flavours of cinnamon with the added edge of mandarin peel, combined with the ever-present aromas of the brand’s Original Gin. To serve, Winterful Gin can be enjoyed with tonic, mandarin peel and a stick of cinnamon – or as a spicy winter drink with ginger beer, lime and grated nutmeg. www.martinmillersgin.com

Ceder’s Ceder’s Pink Rose Distilled Non-Alcoholic Spirit

Created in 2017 by husband-and-wife entrepreneurs Craig Hutchison and Maria Shelstrom, Ceder’s is a distilled nonalcoholic spirit containing no sugar or artificial flavours. The Ceder’s recipe was developed by distilling both classic gin botanicals such as juniper with more exotic botanicals like rooibos and buchu, sourced from the Cederberg Mountains of the Western Cape in South Africa – where the brand gets its name. Each of the 15 botanicals are individually distilled into a concentrate to capture their specific flavours. These meticulously harvested and distilled flavours are then blended together to create four distinct taste profiles: classic, crisp, wild and the latest addition, pink rose – a refreshing balance of classic gin botanicals with juniper at the forefront complemented by floral notes of rose and sweet hibiscus. To serve, mix one part Ceder’s with two parts tonic and garnish with fresh raspberries and mint. www.cedersdrinks.com

Consorzio di Tutela del Prosecco DOC Prosecco DOC

In line with its mission to enhance the cultural and artistic reputation of Italian heritage, the Consortium for the Protection of Prosecco DOC has produced two short films that showcase the Italian genius that permeates the territory, origins and production of Prosecco DOC. The first film, Lightness That Inspires, embraces a journey of love between two young people through an intoxicating and vibrant toast. From the sinuous profiles of Antonio Canova’s sculptures at the Gypsotheca in Possagno to the Miramare Castle in Trieste, the film is a eulogy to the country’s excellence met in the elegance of Prosecco DOC. This year, the Consortium marks the bicentennial of Antonio Canova’s death with Genius Moves the World, a film that transports viewers back to the second half of the 18th century to discover where the master sculptor moved, imagined, contemplated and shaped matter into masterpieces. Per the film, his grace reveals the beauty of emotion found in tasting a glass of Italian Prosecco bubbles; a journey between illusion and creation, where the hand that carves the marble is the same that works the vineyard.

www.prosecco.wine

CLICK HERE TO WATCH THE SHORT FILMS

Champagne Palmer & Co Grands Terroirs 2015

Drawing its roots from Champagne Palmer & Co’s iconic crus of the Montagne de Reims, Grands Terroirs is embedded in the foundations of the brand and embodies the quest for harmony and excellence initiated by its founders over 75 years ago. A historic and emblematic signature of Palmer & Co, each Grands Terroirs cuvée expresses the quintessence of the Premier and Grand Cru vineyards of the Montagne de Reims in an exceptional vintage. The 2015 harvest produced rich, complex and beautifully balanced wines – all precursors of a great vintage. On the nose, Grand Terroirs 2015 opens with notes of orange blossom and acacia, mixed with hints of yellow fruits, before evolving to reveal delicately spiced aromas of fried pineapple and tonka bean. The palate is characterised by freshness, with citrus fruits sublimating the notes of brioche and dried fruits. Its creamy texture stretches deliciously into a persistent finish. An intense, seductive and elegant vintage, Grands Terroirs 2015 can be enjoyed as an aperitif or suitably paired with a meal. www.champagne-palmer.fr/en

Down to Earth

Portuguese porcelain brand Costa Verde is taking things to the next level with an original new porcelain collection, Terra.

Ever since it was founded in 1992, Costa Verde has prioritised the strong allegiance it shares with Portuguese porcelain distributors; a strategy that has helped the brand to achieve and maintain such rapid and widespread success. Today, the company remains rooted firmly in the Portuguese market, with a production unit located in the district of Aveiro – yet more than 30 years of steady growth have also seen it benefit from myriad partnerships that have emerged from marketplaces around the world. A consistent appetite for research, as well as for the creation and development of new products, means that Costa Verde now enjoys a presence across more than 50 locations globally, making 70% of its revenue from the international market. But though its business focus is unwavering, the brand remains dedicated to producing innovative, proactive and flexible hospitality solutions in the form of products and services that show respect for both its internal and external environment.

It is for this reason that its new porcelain collection Terra is one of its most meaningful yet. The series, which is set to be unveiled at the end of this year in Portugal before hitting the brand’s international markets in 2023, is the result of a creative collaboration with the San Francisco-based engineer and sculptural designer Pere Gifre. His work across the fields of scenography, interior and industrial sculptural design and architectural elements allows him

to enrich his creations with various specialised techniques and processes. These include VFX engineering, which uses computer systems to transform the physical processes of nature into sculpture, light structures or other forms, regardless of scale, material or difficulty. An influential name in the horeca sector, Gifre is currently collaborating with more than 200 Michelin restaurants worldwide on tabletop designs. “We met Pere Gifre more than 10 years ago in Frankfurt, during the Ambiente trade show, and after a short presentation by his staff we immediately thought that Costa Verde should develop a project with him in the future,” explains Marketing Director Paulo Pinto Santos. “Last year Costa Verde decided to move forward with this partnership, and here we are now, with Terra.” He adds: “The combination of all this potential and production capabilities, all together, has led to an astonishing and incredible result.”

Terra focuses on the fundamental, symbolising the start of a new era for Costa Verde. Comprising plates, bowls, podiums and a creamer, the line’s signature feature is its organic shapes, with each strikingly imperfect profile lending the products an earth-carved appearance and allowing them a compelling, elemental aesthetic that is further enhanced by its elegant white colourway. Described as ‘a collection aiming to awaken the senses’, the series offers a tactile experience that seeks to connect diners with nature, thanks to its various

textures – which range from coarse to silky satin – and gradients – which range from flat to steep. Each piece has been crafted with the goal of being refreshing and distinct.

Terra is a disruptive shape that will support Costa Verde in elevating the brand. According to the company, it also posed a major challenge in terms of technique: during the product development phase the team had the opportunity of testing out different ways of producing porcelain, new techniques and new skills, in order to create Terra. An upscale collection, Costa Verde is confident that Terra will be a success and take the brand and its further collections to a different level.

Developed with the close input of the twoMichelin-starred chefs Dieter Koschina and Henrique Sá Pessoa, Terra has been designed to appeal to the luxury and fine-dining markets on both a practical and aesthetic level. Manufactured by the brand’s expert porcelain craftspeople, the collection is a fitting tribute to Costa Verde’s motto, All Senses Matter, and in bringing the art of sculpture to the table, the brand hopes the new series will help revolutionise design standards across the horeca market. Encompassing the Costa Verde principles of innovation, proactiveness and flexibility – all the while showing respect for the organisation’s internal and external environment – Terra is sure to make its mark on the sector.

PETITS FOURS

Goodfellow & Goodfellow Lactarius Mushroom Glass

London-based Goodfellow & Goodfellow’s ongoing development includes a focus on bar solutions, including innovative cocktail service, bar equipment and snack service ideas. The Lactarius Mushroom Glass is dramatic, inspiring and designed to meet the diverse creative needs of mixologists. It demonstrates the brand’s comprehensive approach to every area of F&B service. Goodfellow & Goodfellow now provides bespoke cocktail service solutions as part of the Design & Fulfilment service it offers to F&B operators and professionals globally. www.goodf.co.uk

1. LSA International Dapple

Luxury glassware brand LSA International’s Dapple collection focuses on poetic drinkware and decorative pieces with fluid textures inspired by the effect of dappled light hitting the earth, the water or the woodlands. The series, which comes in a range of colours that call to mind the natural world, spans products including bowls, carafes, tumblers, vases and wine glasses. Expertly mouth-blown from coloured glass, which produces pieces with fine rims and walls, each object in the collection has an undulating surface that refracts light, creating a romantic and striking statement for a variety of tableware settings.

2. Pordamsa Duna

Specialist Spanish tableware company Pordamsa has launched Duna, a new collection hand-modelled in white porcelain. Inspired by the sinuous shapes created by desert dunes, the organic and high resistance designs offer a multitude of plating possibilities, elevating the gastronomic experience by referencing the soft texture of sand. The collection is also available in a matte finish. Founded in 1975, trend-setting porcelain and glass manufacturer Pordamsa creates exceptional articles that currently accompany the creations of the most renowned international chefs and provide solutions for the most demanding hotel design projects.

3. Costa Nova Âmbar

Portuguese brand Costa Nova is known for its fine stoneware collections that represent the utmost in ceramic craftsmanship, and its Âmbar collection is no different.

Striking and original, the series encapsulates artisanal beauty and creativity, while simultaneously providing the high performance that modern chefs demand.

“Ambar is a tribute to the circular shapes and soft contours of nature,” explains the collection’s designer, Carsten Gollnick, of the Potsdam-based studio Carsten Gollnick Design. “My first inspiration was stone and ring shapes as found in nature. Amber always has a transparent outer body and inclusions and precious round objects inside. In my design process, I developed a language of forms in which sensual, circular outer contours and edges, concentric and irregular, are arranged in conjunction with each other. This results in exciting relief surfaces that go beyond the familiar.”

The Âmbar collection is crafted from Ecogres, a raw material comprised of 100% recycled stoneware, making it both an aesthetic and sustainable statement, and an ideal canvas for environmentally conscious food narratives.

Costa Nova, which is produced by the leading stoneware manufacturer Grestel, specialises in Portuguese-made fine stoneware products that are durable and timeless.

Photo Franck Hamel

DESIGN

1. Monno Modular

Combining traditional ceramic production methods with intricate and precise detail, the Modular collection from Monno is a superb example of the design edict form follows function. Designed by Monno’s Creative Director Billy Lloyd, Modular is an adaptable range of stackable bone china tableware pieces – including bowls, plates and more – that can be used in a variety of combinations to meet the needs of numerous horeca requirements. Stylish and elegant, each item is crafted with finesse and developed with the understanding that a collection’s versatility at the table is a key element in achieving the optimal contemporary dining experience.

2. Chef & Sommelier Sublym

Slender lines, long, seamless and slender legs and ultra-clear crystal glass characterise the Sublym collection from Chef & Sommelier. With a silhouette designed to serve all types of wine, the gentle curve of the glass types and the carafe that make up the complete collection also feature a slim rim designed to enhance the tasting experience, without sacrificing the solidity of the glasses, which is essential for professional use. All Sublym items are made with Chef & Sommelier’s high-performance lead-free crystal glass material, Krysta – a material known for its lasting brilliance, effective shock resistance and transparency.

3. Playground Silento

This neutral bowl from Playground’s refined Silento collection is crafted from high-quality stoneware that plays with an exciting contrast between surface textures, ranging from matte to slightly rough. A shiny swirl also adorns the plate mirror and attracts attention, thanks to a distinct white glaze. The bowl’s neutral hue means it can be easily integrated into a wide variety of tablescapes, introducing an element of calm to culinary presentations, while its regular shape and handcrafted glaze also enable the piece to harmonise seamlessly with a variety of dishes. The bowl also comes in various sizes, with 24cm, 26cm and 28cm diameters available.

4. Amefa Buffet

Amefa is a bona-fide cutlery specialist, having been setting tables all over the world since 1931. Today the heritage hospitality brand, which remains a family-owned business with subsidiaries all over the world, offers a wide range of cutlery and kitchen products with designs to suit every style, from traditional to contemporary. Its elegant Buffet series comprises an extensive collection of useful serving parts with a black PVD coating and mirror finish that lends the collection a dramatic, eye-catching aesthetic certain to intrigue guests. The series is made of high-quality 18/10 stainless steel and is dishwasher safe, making it a stylish and practical choice.

1. Nude Ilo Collection

The Nude Ilo candle holder comprises a clear crystalline dome, enriched with a hand-engraved ripple pattern, resting atop a light-reflective copper base. The collection includes three sizes of candle holders ranging from statement pillar to dainty tealight, and each piece can be used both indoors and outdoors, making the elegant series equally suitable for balmy summer evenings and cosy winter nights. The combination of Nude’s handcrafted crystalline rippled glass with the silky-looking copper plate allows the candlelight to twinkle and reflect in its setting, resulting in a playful and romantic optic effect that adds charm to a variety of settings.

eu.nudeglass.com

2. Huls Gallery Singapore

Texture Series by Hataman Touen

Hataman Touen has been producing refined tableware from Imari in Japan’s Saga Prefecture since 1926: the company uses the techniques constructed for Nabeshima ware, which was dedicated to the shogunate for its fine quality. Its Texture series is made for professionals, designed to complement chefs’ work and ensure an elegant presentation. The bowls and plates come in different sizes and finishes, with a matte white achieved by sandblasting over the glaze, while the popular round bowl has a soft silhouette with a rim that highlights the dish it holds. This beautiful selection promises to elevate culinary arts to the next level.

3. Steelite International Folio Azores

Inspired by the natural landscapes of the Portuguese Azores islands, the latest Folio Azores collection by Steelite embraces an artisanal approach to casual dining. Manufactured in Portugal, the series features a combination of reactive hand-applied glazes and irregular shaped edges that work to emulate the look and feel and hand-thrown stoneware, offering a striking contrast of smooth curves and contours. The collection is available in four contemporary colour schemes, each named after and inspired by the harmonious scenery of their namesake islands: Costa (white coast), Mar (blue sea), Ocaso (pink sunset) and Caldeira (black volcano). Pieces range from plates and oval plates to deep bowls, flared footed bowls and snack dishes, making Azores ideal for both intimate dining experiences and larger, convivial tabletop settings. Steelite International is a leading designer, marketer, manufacturer and supplier of award-winning tableware, lighting and buffet solutions for the global hospitality industry. Its core brands include Steelite Distinction & Performance, William Edwards, D.W. Haber, Hollowick, Creations, Folio, Hall China and Aspen Drinkware.

Serax

Inku by Sergio Herman for Serax

Ever since its first tableware launch, the Belgian design behemoth Serax has enjoyed a reputation as a trendsetter, working with Michelin-starred chefs such as Albert Adrià, the Roca brothers, Alain Ducasse and JeanGeorges Vongerichten. Now, the company has joined forces with the top chef Sergio Herman on a contemporary tabletop collection that balances the beauty of the natural world with the elegance of modern fine dining.

Dubbed Inku, the daring new series was inspired by Herman’s culinary trips to Japan. Aiming to translate Japanese simplicity for the dynamic atmosphere and the glamour of a fully-fledged restaurant, the chef created the range with his brasserie Le Pristine, in which he combines elements of the region of Zeeland with Italian culinary flair, in mind.

Sophisticated and almost feminine, Inku’s design codes include clear references to nature, with its shapes and lines nodding to abstract structures and Japanese blossoms. The radial typography that is often associated with Japan’s landmark Mount Fuji also features

in the collection. A layer of glaze creates small imperfections that fit completely into the wabisabi feeling that the chef wanted to convey with the project, ensuring that no two plates are exactly the same.

“With the Inku tableware, we can not only decorate the plate nicely but complete tables with blossoms in ceramics,” says Herman, who has held three Michelin stars since 2005. “I don’t just view it as our task to inspire people from a culinary perspective, but I also want to create that with table decoration.”

The collection spans everything from side plates and bowls to serving dishes, and is available in the colourways of shell white, matte black and grey-green. Table and cooking accessories will further complete the collection during the course of this year. In addition to the existing plate collection, the series also includes a professional coffee and tea set and a line of fine glassware running the gamut from wine glasses and champagne glasses to water and cocktail glasses.

1. Zieher Glow

Glow by Zieher is a flexible system that creates unmatched buffet arrangements. The filigree construction not only allows food and beverages to be presented on the displays, but the inner side also creates enough space to effectively present food in the right light. Zieher buffet systems have been experimenting with innovative lighting concepts for several years, and in Glow, the approach is firmly integrated for the first time. All elements can be used lying horizontally or upright, and can be flexibly combined with two connecting boards made of bent sheet metal. The brand prioritises innovative design in the tabletop and in the buffet section.

2. John Jenkins Atlantic

John Jenkins specialises in supplying the hospitality industry with handmade crystal and glass for the table and bar. Founded in London in 1901, the brand’s products can be found in luxury hotels and restaurants around the UK, as well as internationally in cities across Asia, the Middle East and the Americas. Responding to a demand for more specialised glasses, the group’s William Yeoward Crystal brand has supplied hotel chains including Rosewood, Mandarin Oriental and Four Seasons. Collections such as Atlantic (pictured) and Bella have proven to be particularly popular in high-end dining

3. Harrison Ovens Professional Charcoal Oven Range

Handmade in a modest workshop on the coast of Kent, Harrison Ovens enjoys a stellar reputation in the professional culinary world. Ever since the launch of the Harrison ‘S’ in 2015, the brand’s robust charcoal ovens have become the most aspirational appliances on the professional market, and are today synonymous with marrying innovation and high performance with refined controllability and iconic design. For years the brand has been charged with manufacturing charcoal ovens for Michelin-starred restaurants and pioneering chefs including Richard Corrigan, Jason Atherton and Yotam Ottolenghi. Rather than focusing on very high, intense heat, Harrison Ovens use strategic engineering to find ways of channelling the heat into ingredients to create exceptional flavour and moisture retention. This considered air flow and insulation enables the ovens to minimise their impact on the professional kitchen environment, helping to keep it a pleasant place to work for staff, and ensuring that the machines are economical on fuel consumption. The Harrison Professional Range includes the innovative Icon model, which enables chefs to cook at two different temperatures from one sole charcoal source.

1. Corby Hall Bolero 18/10

Corby Hall, a family-owned business based in New Jersey, US, has supplied the international hospitality industry with high quality flatware, holloware and bright white porcelain dinnerware for the past 40 years. With designs ranging from traditional to contemporary at extremely competitive price points, Corby Hall has the ability to supply all F&B outlets associated with a full service foodservice operation. Its Bolero collection includes 13 pieces revolving around knives, steak knives, forks and spoons, each made of 18/10 forged premium stainless steel. The elegant series comes with either a mirror finish or a silver plate finish for added design flexibility.

www.corbyhall.com

2. Rona Linea Umana

Representing 125 years of glassmaking skill, leading Slovakian glass manufacturer Rona’s collaboration with the award-winning Italian sommelier Maurizio Dante Fillipi has resulted in a collection that ticks all the boxes when it comes to balancing functionality and sophisticated elegance. Fabricated using the brand’s pulled-stem technology, the ultra-light pieces feature a distinctive flared edge and smooth interior, which has been designed specifically to encourage the release of the drink’s aromas. The Linea range encompasses four wine glasses and two water glasses, each featuring the same soft and generous lines.

www.rona.glass

3. Narumi Rydges

Narumi’s new collection Rydges brings the rhythms of natural landscapes to the table. “This is one of the designs that resulted from our several years of work on the theme of ‘Respect for Nature’,” says its designer. “It visualises the undulations of the earth, created by sedimentation and orogenic movement, and the dynamic stripes that appear as the Antelope Canyon is eroded by wind and rain. While designing, I imagined what it would be like if the earth were cut out and made into a plate.” The collection encompasses several sizes of plates and bowls, and the depth and width of each item is carefully considered to enhance the beauty of the food.

www.narumi.co.jp

4. Bonna Ground

With its new collection Ground, produced from recycled waste mud, Turkish porcelain behemoth Bonna (the horeca brand of Karl Porselen) presents its respect for the earth and its repetitive refrains that have surrounded humanity with compassion since the beginning of time. The aim of the simple, pared-down 10-piece series is to give back what has been taken from the soil. The collection consists of two different colours, the outer surface of which is a raw body, while the inner surface is grey and transparent. Even the boxes used in the packaging of the collection are made of recyclable materials, underlining Ground’s sustainable ethos.

1. MyGlass Studio Mid-Century Modern

The Mid-Century Modern Canape Display collection by MyGlass Studio juxtaposes sleek lines with organic shapes: an aesthetic rooted in functionality, clean lines and simplicity. Designed to display one-bite appetisers, the collection comprises tiered serving platters, serving bowls with stands, footed boards and tasting plates and bowls. Tiered canape serving platters of different shapes can be incorporated with anti-slip rubber coated metal buffet risers for a contemporary buffet food display. Rather than simply acting as a surface to present the food, the Mid-Century Modern Canape Display collection provides a visually appealing culinary backdrop.

www.myglassstudio.com

2. Fine2Dine Blue Faded Dune

Fine2Dine’s new collection Dune combines intense sand-coloured hues with a deep ocean blue reactive glaze, creating the impression of a soft gust of wind crossing the dunes. Made using durable porcelain and created with the most joyful of gatherings in mind, the collection’s elegantly rounded borders contrast with its strong, robust shapes. The fact that the reactive glaze creates small imperfections so that all items look slightly different, but fit beautifully together, means no two Dune items are exactly the same. This high-quality porcelain tableware range promises to provide an eye-catching and creative dining experience.

www.fine2dine.com

3. Mogogo Roll’n Service Cart

Service carts have been a key feature on the hospitality scene for decades, functioning as small-scale food carts used by restaurants and hotels to deliver or display food with style, while presenting chosen concepts to guests. Back in fashion, these days they are enjoying a resurgence in the food service industry. Mogogo’s version, the Roll’n Service Cart collection, is built on the core elements of elegance, function and durability and features high density bamboo panels, heavy duty casters, and a slick vinyl covered handle for easier and more comfortable navigation, ensuring that the cart is both a stylish and practical choice for F&B settings. Thanks to its extensive combination of add-ons and accessories, the Roll’n Service can be converted into a cheese serving cart, a cocktail cart, and various other iterations. Now available with the options of a stainless handle and heavy-duty bumper, it can be used as a companion to Mogogo’s full product range or as a standalone serving cart for table-side service, room service delivery, display or any other occasion requiring a cart. Roll in style at any location.

www.mogogo-buffet.com

1. Craster Fare

The name of Craster’s new Fare Trolleys range derives from the Old English word fær, meaning ‘to journey’, so naturally the concept of mobility lies at the heart of the series. Crafted to ensure durability, the configurable distribution and display systems are capable of operating within F&B and catering scenarios from morning to night. Engineered to support dynamic environments thanks to their modular design, the trolleys feature a sturdy metal frame with high-quality natural timber or hard-wearing laminate shelves. The connecting bridges have been designed around a gastronorm footprint, allowing for an agile setup that can be scaled to large or intimate configurations.

2. Franke Coffee Systems Optical Cup Recognition

Franke Coffee System’s fully automatic coffee machines accurately match coffee beverage output to the correct cup size, boosting profits by stamping out waste.

The Optical Cup Recognition Technology identifies in-cup volume in real time, going beyond standard cup recognition solutions. User-friendly graphics on the coffee machine’s touchscreen create an easy-to-follow dialogue for guests, improving the overall customer experience and waiting time and reducing waste during beverage production. The technology can also detect whether disposable cups, heat-resistant glasses or containers made of ceramic, porcelain or aluminium are being used.

3. Modbar Modbar

Offering a premium coffee experience without compromising on interior design, Modbar’s innovative concept lends a cohesive and impactful aesthetic to a range of interior spaces. Modbar is a user-friendly, under-counter coffee machine system that mirrors elements of a traditional espresso machine without creating bulk and dominating the aesthetic of a space. The solution is both customisable and configurable to the needs of each location and client, and aims to transform coffee offerings and customer experiences in coffee shops, cafés, restaurants and other consumer settings, offering delicious espresso and coffee beverages in a sleek and minimal way. The stainless steel Espresso, Steam, and Pour-Over taps on the countertop models feature a chrome brass finish that can be completed with a galvanic treatment that creates a luminous shine, or a powder treatment that results in a matte look. The taps themselves can be finished in any hue from the RAL or Pantone colour matching systems, while additional elements such as the portafilter and tap handle can be completed with a maple or walnut wood finish option.

Easy Buffet VisionsFlair meets Function

Renarte

Putting on a Show

Renarte Hospitality Supplies has ramped up its physical presence globally, with the refurbishment of its international showrooms. The established OSE company, which is based in the Middle East and North America, has overhauled its client-facing spaces in Doha, Dubai and Toronto this year.

In Canada, Renarte has welcomed a new showroom in the city of Mississauga, which borders Toronto. In Dubai, the company’s new showroom spans more than 300m2, displaying products from its growing portfolio of brands, spanning tabletop items, tableware, porcelain, glassware, flatware, catering equipment, bar and stewarding equipment and much more. “Dubai being our first location also acts as a bridge to showcase our portfolio for neighbouring GCC countries,” explains Renarte Founder and CEO Ranjan Salis. “The decision to expand was purely strategic, as our portfolio across our multiple locations now boasts more than 40 internationally acclaimed brands –including Steelite International, Degrenne and Revol – and we had to make space for the

brands that have joined us this year, such as Bugatti Flatware and Drinique, among others.” Renarte has also moved its Doha venue closer to the city centre in anticipation of the FIFA World Cup kicking off in Qatar in November. The 150m2 space accommodates new additions to its banqueting range portfolio. “With more international brands looking to foray into the Middle East, it’s best to be prepared for our client’s expectations,” explains Salis. Renarte’s Middle Eastern moves come amidst increasing industry activity in the region, with brands such as Warner Brothers Hotel making their debut in the Gulf this year, and headliners such as Accor’s Ennismore introducing the Hyde and SLS brands to the region last year, with an SO Hotel & Residences and Mama Shelter in the pipeline. “Our aim has always been to provide the best products to our clients and our showrooms are crucial to that vision,” affirms Salis.

www.renarte.ca

1. Julius Meinl Coffee

Iconic Hopper

Julius Meinl’s dedication to quality has been a family trademark for five generations – and it’s a philosophy that extends to the Austrian company’s range of innovative coffee machines. The new Julius Meinl Iconic Hopper produces coffee as high-quality as its aesthetic. Its distinct design calls to mind the recognisable curves of the brand’s fez motif, which is also featured on its own-brand cups, jugs and water glasses. The machine features quality precision technology exclusively designed to ensure that the pressure of coffee beans entering the grinder is accurately controlled, delivering the perfect cup of coffee, every time.

2. Frilich Pure Nature ‘Barrel’

The new Pure Nature Barrel beverage dispenser from Frilich features a textured design that not only offers a visually striking beverage presentation, but also provides easy handling for users. The beverage dispenser comes with a capacity of either five or eight litres, and is made of unbreakable, dishwasher-safe and BPA-free plastic. The screw-on lid of the Barrel is fitted with a handle for safe and easy transport from the prep kitchen to the buffet platform. For effective decoration, Frilich recommends the Pure Nature Wooden Platform Set – a series of wooden discs coated with non-slip varnish, which have been designed to give the Barrel stability.

3. FOH Drinkwise

Billed as being both safe and strong, Drinkwise is impact-resistant commercialgrade drinkware, manufactured with a proprietary co-polyester plastic blend. Besides being BPA-free (bisphenol A), Drinkwise is free of estrogenic, androgenic activity, bisphenol-S, and other bisphenol compounds in polycarbonate items. The collection is designed to withstand commercialgrade industrial washing and capable of resisting up to 248°F heat with no risk of leeching, all while maintaining its glass-like clarity. With chic shapes and a non-toxic design, Drinkwise provides a lightweight, unbreakable, and re-useable addition to any bar.

4. Stölzle Lausitz Swing and Twist

Inspired by the exuberance and glamour of the 1920s, German glass manufacturer Stölzle Lausitz’s new release Swing and Twist provides a modern interpretation of the classic champagne saucer. Featuring a distinct cubic shape, the goblet gently merges with the high, filigree-pulled stem, contrasting charmingly with the voluminous opulence of the bowls. The result is that both the large Swing and the smaller Twist glass exude elegance. Made from lead-free crystal glass, the champagne saucers feature a gracefully thin rim, and are versatile enough to be used for drinking champagne, sparkling wine or showstopping cocktails.

Olivier Passot Revol Porcelain

Olivier Passot, CEO of the luxury French heritage brand Revol Porcelain, has helmed the family-owned tableware business for more than two decades. He sits down with Supper to talk about the challenges and opportunities involved in running a heritage brand, the evolution of the luxury tableware sector, and the company’s recent UK expansion.

Revol has been in business since 1768: how does it feel to have more than 250 years of heritage behind the company?

We consider these 254 years of history as an incredible opportunity – this exceptional history is an incomparable legacy for our family factory. It forges an unbreakable bond with our home territory and the families of our employees, allows us to rely on unique know-how that has been transmitted and strengthened from generation to generation, and increases our creativity and desire to innovate constantly.

What are the opportunities and challenges involved in running a successful heritage brand in today’s luxury hospitality sector?

Being a heritage brand should not mean wait-and-see and conservatism. There’s a risk of capitalising solely on its history and the mastery of its know-how; in my opinion, this heritage must be used to push the boundaries of creativity, design and excellence.

How has the luxury hospitality sector evolved during your 22year tenure as CEO? Incredibly. And l’art de la table has accompanied this evolution with enthusiasm – going from basic and functional products to commanding an essential presence in chefs’ creative processes and the style and image of a restaurant or hotel. In 20 years, we have gone from basic white decorations and evolved into gigantic collections to an area where the products are carefully designed, working in new colour palettes, textures and functionalities. The collections are shorter, more playful, encouraging operators to mix them together and write their own story. In summary, I consider that we have experienced a real revolution in the arts of the table during this period.

What are chefs and operators looking for to create the very best dining experiences?

Chefs and operators have their own sensitivity and expectations, and it’s probably impossible to summarise them in a single answer! But one common point between them is a strong desire to be different from one another, to express personality and their own history thanks to their cuisine but also thanks to the dishes they will choose to present it to their guests. This quest for difference is precisely what fascinates and stimulates me.

What can we expect next from Revol?

A lot! We will continue to animate the market with exciting new launches, especially in tableware and buffetware. We will also continue to develop our pioneering role as the leading manufacturer of 100% recycled ceramic paste tableware with other new products to come. Finally, we have just opened a distribution subsidiary in the UK, Revol 1768 Ltd, and carry a stock of more than 400 references locally near Liverpool. A showroom is also set to open its doors in London in October. This is a very exciting time for us in this great country. www.revol1768.com

ADVERTISING INDEX ISSUE 29

Aerts 016

Amefa 048 Arc International 045

BHS 025

Bonna 131 Champagne Palmer 093 Chef Works 047

Corby Hall 051 Costa Nova 088 Costa Verde 010-011

Cosy & Trendy 113

Craster 073 Equiphotel 127

Eternum SA 077

FHA 125

Franke 033

Frilich 119

Front of House 012-013

Goodfellows 039 Harrison Ovens 079

Hotel & Resort Innovation Expo 128

Huls 115

HX 126

Impulse Enterprises 087

John Jenkins 002 Julius Meinl 081

Kopa 075

La Marzocco Modbar 111 Lafont 069

Lillet 006-007

LSA International 005 Martin Miller’s Gin 095 Mogogo 117

Monno Design 020 My Glass Studio 014-015 Narumi 119

Nude 132 Orrefors Kosta Boda 102 Pordamsa 057

Prosecco DOC 091

Renarte 107

Revol 105

Rona 109

Sola 096

Steelite 008-009 Stolzle 023

To The Table Asia 099

To The Table MEA 123 Urban Bar 043 Zieher 019

Zwiesel Kristallglas 063

A Virtual Voyage

Patrón Tequila is betting on digital drinks with its entry into the metaverse. The premium tequila brand made its virtual debut in August with a cocktail-themed extravaganza dubbed Summer Made Sensational: A Patrón Pop-Up Series. Set in a 3D browser-based platform called Decentraland, the pop-up gave US-based fans of the agave-based spirit brand the chance to take a trip through a colourful, tequila-tinged world.

the Metaverse Festival. Those who successfully completed all three challenges were entered into a draw for a chance to win the grand prize: an all-expenses-paid real-life trip to Punta Mita in Mexico, and a rare mythic wearable for use within the metaverse.

Patrón takes fans on a tequila-tinged spin through the metaverse.

The activation centred on a bar takeover and adventure inspired by three of the brand’s signature cocktails: the Patrón Perfect Paloma, the Patrón Silver and Soda and the Patrón Añejo Highball. Players (aged 21 and older) were charged with locating the ingredients needed to make each drink in three cocktail-themed quests, each taking place in one of a trio of virtual locations; the Jazz Club, Flamingos or

The virtual experience was in many ways a natural progression for the brand, following its venture into Web 3.0 back in January 2022 via its first-ever NFT, Patrón Chairman’s Reserve.

“At Patrón, we celebrate creative communities like the metaverse that bring people together in a digital world,” comments President and Global Chief Marketing Officer Kathy Parker. “With this new venture, we hope to spark curiosity, creativity and connection this summer while offering our tequila fans a new way to experience the mastery behind our brand.”

© Patrón Tequila

SOME LOOK FRAGILE BUT ARE TOUGHER THAN ANY OTHER…