HOTEL FOOD & DRINK
ARNAUD DONCKELE • PAVYLLON – HÔTEL HERMITAGE • THE MADRID EDITION
purity pearls
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CONTENTS ISSUE 28 082
STARTERS
087
The Twenty Two
038
Rhumbar
040
Indego By Vineet
042
London
The Mirage Las Vegas Grosvenor House Dubai
© Francisco Nogueira
© Brian Dandridge
030
MAIN COURSES 044
Carton House
050
Pavyllon
058
The Retreat at Elcot Park
064
Warabi
070
Madrid
Maynooth
Hôtel Hermitage Monaco Berkshire
W Melbourne
© Carlos Garralaga
The Madrid Edition
003
CONTENTS ISSUE 28 SERVICE
050
Chef’s Table
022
Tales of Provence
024
From Barcelona with Love
030
Raising the Bar
036
Acclaimed Slovenian chef Ana Roš shares a snapshot of her life in food. At Cheval Blanc St-Tropez, chef Arnaud Dockele’s three-Michelin-starred cuisine tells the story of the surrounding land and its people. Inspired by Spain’s modern artists and a passion for the Mediterranean, chef Rafa Zafra’s new restaurant is a love letter to Catalonia.
© Barry Murphy
024
102
Kimberly Grant, Global Head of Restaurants & Bars at Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts, discusses celebrity chefs and sustainable innovation.
DINING The Lancashire Larder
076
With culinary tourism on the rise, chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen’s Northcote restaurant is offering guests a deep dive into the region’s best produce.
SIPPING © Richard Haughton
REGULARS
004
A Portuguese Pilgrimage
087
A slew of new wine-anchored hospitality experiences is driving a renewed focus on boosting enotourism in Portugal.
DIRECTORY
Entrée
015
Drinks
105
Appetisers
019
Petits Fours
111
Signatures
082
Washing-Up
130
Cocktails
100
Head of the Table
119
Our annual tableware guide equips decisionmakers with key information from market-leading suppliers, assisting in the specification process for new hospitality projects worldwide.
FOR
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ENTRÉE
ON THE COVER Pléntitude, Cheval Blanc Paris © Richard Haughton
Movers and Makers
A
uthenticity is a buzzword that has been bandied about
alchemic approach to cooking, his uncompromising views on
so nonchalantly in recent years that a cynic might
local produce and his dedication to storytelling and sharing
now dismiss it as something of a hollow term. In the
emotional connections through his cuisine.
hospitality and travel sectors alike, it seems that barely a day
Another acclaimed chef channeling sentiment into his
goes by without the launch of some earnestly bona fide new
dishes is Rafa Zafra, whose new restaurant Amar Barcelona
venue or concept that has blossomed organically from the
serves as a gastonomic love letter to his native Catalonia.
bud of originality – or so those in head office would have us
Featured on page 30, he tells us all about how he hopes the
believe. Yet the fact remains that scoring high in the category
venture will help to spark a connection among diners to the
is an essential requirement for generating positive F&B
region’s culinary and cultural landscape.
experiences. So how do international hotel groups achieve
In the rolling countryside of the UK’s Ribble Valley region,
autheticity... authentically? It’s a subject that Kimberly Grant,
meanwhile, chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen’s eminent Northcote
Global Head of Restaurants & Bars at Four Seasons Hotels &
restaurant has launched a programme that weaves small-scale
Resorts, knows more about than most: head to page 36 to read
local producers into the fabric of its top-class gastronomic
more about her thoughts on creating dynamic, relevant and
experience (featured on page 76). In Portugal, a drive to boost
concepts that appeal to both guests and locals alike.
wine tourism at a national level is resulting in an array of
The truth is that it is now completely normal for diners to
boutique, educational experiences pinned to viniculture but
question where their food has come from and to want to know
spilling over into education, food and wellness; read our
the backstories of certain dishes, cocktails and ingredients, as
special feature on page 87 for more.
well as the chefs and mixologists who craft them. Authenticity
The appetite for authenticity isn’t limited to food and
is firmly established in the mainstream F&B narrative, and
drink, either: this issue, we share with you our annual Head
luckily, for every cookie-cutter concept, there are even more
of the Table guide, spotlighting the leading suppliers whose
spirited creatives working on genuinely imaginative projects
craftsmanship and design expertise are a bedrock of the entire
to redress the balance.
F&B scene. From bold startups to heritage brands honouring
Happily, we have plenty of them in this very issue. Leading our Service section is the esteemed French chef Arnaud Donckele, who hit the headlines earlier this year when his Parisian restaurant Plénitude won three Michelin stars less
decades (or sometimes centuries) of artisanal tradition, the resource provides key details about the best in the business. Think of this one as the creators issue: one for the dreamers, the doers, the movers and makers. Supper is served.
than a year after opening. The venue, which sits within the LVMH hotel Cheval Blanc Paris, focuses on the art of the sauce - an audacious concept that has captivated fine-dining lovers. But Donckele is no overnight success story. We caught up with him at his Cheval Blanc St-Tropez restaurant La Vague d’Or, which he has helmed since 2004, to talk about his
Shanna McGoldrick • Deputy Editor
015
THE BRIGADE
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Magazine.indd 1
27.06.2022 17:29
APPETISERS
O
ne of the most delicious aspects of
operators are in survival mode and will be for the
dining out is surely the escape it offers
foreseeable future,” she said at the time.
from the fiddly practicalities of feeding
At South Place Chop House, a sleek, classic
yourself; after all, no meal planning, cooking or
British restauraunt located within London’s
washing-up is required and the process simply
South Place Hotel, Head Chef Jake O’Riley says
necessitates turning up at a venue of your choice,
that implementing compulsory calorie labelling
with company you have selected, to order any
has been quite labour intensive, adding: “We
number of mouthwatering delicacies that are then
were stretched quite thin for a while during our
delivered at your whim. But restaurant-goers in
Covid recovery period, so the additional time and
the UK were served a rude awakening this April,
resources necessary for this have definitely been
when legislation mandating the disclosure of
felt throughout the business.”
calorie counts on menus came into force.
But what of the longer-term impact to
The ruling requires food outlets to list the
revenues? Will diners used to cheerily ordering
kilocalorie count of each non-prepacked food
sides of crispy chips and creamy mashed potato
item and soft drink at the point of choice for
feel compelled to tone things down in the face of
customers, along with information about daily
the irrrefutable calorific impact of those hitherto
Too Much of a Good Thing? In the UK, compulsory calorie labelling in restaurants leaves chefs wondering whether diners will skimp on dessert.
recommended calorie needs. It applies to any
hidden dollops of butter and oil, splashed across
restaurant employing more than 250 members
the menu in black and white?
of staff, making hotel F&B venues particularly vulnerable to the change.
At South Place Chop House, it’s business as usual so far. “We haven’t seen much impact and
Enabling diners to make informed decisions
I think that’s a testament to our menus,” says
about the calorific value of their food is part of
O’Riley. “We’ve always made sure to offer a good
the British government’s bid to tackle steadily
balance, with plenty of low-calorie options, and
rising national obesity rates, and according to
none of our dishes are so calorific that they’ll put
a Public Health England survey, 79% of people
guests off ordering. Thankfully, this means we
support the idea. Critics, on the other hand, have
haven’t seen a negative impact on sales either.”
pointed out that the move could prove stressful
Chris King, Director of Food at The Langham,
for eating disorder sufferers, while hospitality
also believes that the key will lie in offering
professionals have been left grappling with the
diners a range of dishes so that there’s something
practicalities of the roll-out and wondering if the
for everyone, but remains confident that the
move will lead to slimmed-down sales figures.
move won’t hamper appetites for luxury F&B
Trade body UK Hospitality requested a six
experiences. “If you’re here for The Langham
month delay to the move last year, with Chief
afternoon tea, you’re here for the full experience,
Executive Kate Nicholls citing concerns about
scones, clotted cream, the lot,” he says.
the financial hit for businesses needing to direct
Whether the move leads to a trimmer populace
resources towards analysing nutritional values
remains to be seen, but for now at least, chefs
and reprinting menus during a difficult time
and diners alike will need to get used to playing
for the sector as a whole. “The vast majority of
the numbers game.
019
APPETISERS
Green by Name, Green by Nature An architectural competition in Iceland seeks to use sustainable design and new hybrid typologies for the purposes of both food growth and dining.
020
Fresh and local produce can be hard to come by
A jury panel of regional and international
during Iceland’s snowy winters, so a greenhouse
architectural experts was tasked with choosing
capable of doubling as a dine-in restaurant
between the hundreds of entries, with the first
would appear to be a resourceful development
prize being awarded to Derin Kinacigil and Juan
on all fronts. Enter: the Iceland Greenhouse
Franco from the UK. The duo’s contemporary Hill
Restaurant Competition, a collaboration between
Farm project design (pictured) was lauded for
the architectural contest group Bee Breeders and
taking inspiration from the rural site’s sloping
Vogafjós Farm Resort, a family-owned farm and
volcanic landscape, and for blending in through
onsite eatery located near lake Mývatn towards
its use of site-specific and environmentally-
the north of the country.
friendly materials. The jury also praised the
The comeptition’s participants were tasked
building’s logical layout and its thoughtful green
with designing a greenhouse and restaurant
design elements, appointing it the winner of a
concept that could accommodate up to 100
separate Green Award.
guests, stipulating that standard amenities
The second prize was awarded to Hudson Parris
such as an appropriately-sized kitchen, storage
and Matthew Cox from the US, for a Vogafjos
facilities and washrooms must also be accounted
project that expands upon typical greenhouse
for. The owners also expressed interest in
elements to produce a new hybrid of indoor
designs that would allow customers to witness
farming and eating, while Simone Miraglia
food production processes first-hand, in addition
and Celeste Mangone from Italy took third
to the development of a space able to host larger
prize for their How We Do/What We Do project,
programmes and events, such as film screenings
incorporating a linear plan, local materials and
and yoga classes.
a practical construction method.
Simplicity has proven to be excellent
0043 - SUPPER IS SERVED.indd 1
3.06.2022 12:00
xxx
© Suzan Gabrijan
CHEF’S TABLE
Ana Roš The self-taught chef, who helms the kitchen at the two-Michelin starred Slovenian restaurant Hiša Franko, shares her favourite food memories.
When did you first fall in love with cooking?
Balkan band called Haustor. I fell in love with
very active imaginations, and that’s where most
I don’t really remember! As a student I just
their track Šal Od Svile – you need to speak
things happen.
cooked to feed myself and my roommates; the
Croatian or Serbian to understand it, but I’ve
serious cooking started in 2002.
listened to it a lot when cooking because it
Which new restaurant are you eager to try out?
makes me curious, and being curious when you
I recently dined at Koan, Kristian Baumann’s
cook is so important.
new project in Copenhagen, and was completely
What is your most memorable meal?
blown away by the quality of the food.
The most memorable meal of my life lasted for around 24 hours. It was on a journey
Which chefs have inspired you?
from Fianarantsoa to Manakara in Eastern
My biggest hero in the restaurant business has
Who is your favourite person to cook for?
Madagascar, on an 18th-century Swiss train
always been René Redzepi.
This is fun – my ex-husband Valter, because he really loves eating and he’s in love with my
that stopped at around 20 stations, each with their own food stalls. It was the best dining
Are you an easygoing or a demanding
cooking! Even though we haven’t been a couple
experience I’ve ever had; we ate so much that
restaurant customer?
for four years, sometimes when I’m cooking for
by the end we were filling our pockets with food!
I’m a difficult customer when it comes to the
the children I ask if he wants to join us, because
quality of ingredients, because when I eat
his praise is the best soundtrack.
What’s your favourite dish and who cooks it?
vegetables I’m looking for fresh, seasonal and
An amazing pizza by chef-pizzaiolo Simone
sustainable – that can be difficult to find. I’m
Which cookbooks can we find on your shelf?
Padoan, prepared in Italy.
not the sort of person to complain, but I don’t
Too many to name! There are some that mean
want to eat a dish that I believe has destroyed
a lot to me, that I’ve had since I first started
And something to drink with that?
what should be natural and beautiful. When fine
cooking. One was written by Joan Roca about
Red wine while eating, then a lovely Averna
dining I never complain but of course I have
the technique of sous-vide cooking. Another is
liqueur with ice and a slice of orange to finish.
my own personal criteria, because fine dining
Albert Adrià’s first pastry cookbook; I bought it
is very subjective.
in El Bulli back in 1999 when I wasn’t yet a chef,
It’s Sunday evening at home: who’s cooking
but the fun thing is that since then, Albert and
and what’s on the menu?
Where do you get the creative inspiration for
I have become friends. I don’t think he knows
It’s always me cooking, and I don’t often go
your dishes?
that his book was my inspiration whenever I
grocery shopping, so I never know what I’m
I’m inspired by nature: I spend a lot of time
had creativity blackouts; I liked to indulge in all
going to find in the fridge. It makes the meals
hiking or running outdoors and I observe what’s
his crazy techniques and flavour combinations!
very creative and diverse! That said, it’s often
going on in the environment around me. When
a pasta dish.
I see things growing together I imagine how
Which city is food heaven for you?
they might work in dishes. I’m also inspired by
Copenhagen,
What’s your go-to cooking soundtrack?
travel memories, from street food in Vietnam or
concentration of incredible dining spots. And
I always listen to music: my children understand
Japan to an incredible course at Central in Lima,
of course Bangkok; when I come home I never
whether I’m happy or sad, depending on my
Peru. I get flashbacks and then my imagination
know what to cook, because the flavours over
music. A friend recently introduced me to a
starts working. I think creative people have
there are so incredible.
because
there’s
such
a
023
SERVICE
Tales of Provence From Paris to Provence, Arnaud Donckele’s multi-Michelin-starred cuisine tells the story of the land that bore its ingredients and the people who cultivated them, in a Proustian quest to evoke memory and emotion. Words: Shanna McGoldrick • Photography: © Richard Haughton
A
s restaurant settings go, it would be difficult
Riviera institution), at the prodigious age of 27, after being
to conjure up a more serene tableau than
recommended by Alain Ducasse. By 2013, the restaurant had
La Vague d’Or. Planted in the heart of the
three Michelin stars, which it has retained ever since. This
chic LVMH-owned hotel Le Cheval Blanc
March, he confirmed his status as a culinary firebrand when
St-Tropez, Chef Arnaud Donckele’s shrine
his second venue Plénitude, a 26-cover restaurant within
to fine dining stretches languorously across
Cheval Blanc’s flagship Paris hotel, scored its own Michelin
a terrace shaded by lofty pine trees, their green needles
star hat-trick barely six months after opening, making him
drifting down onto the white tablecloths whose linen folds
the second chef in 30 years to accomplish such a feat.
puff up gently in the breeze. Waiters weave through the
His connection to the land also remains resolute. At
furniture that extends down to a slip of golden beach and
La Vague d’Or, he is famed for his hands-on method of
beyond it the Mediterranean Sea, shimmering with the same
working with local agriculturalists and growers to champion
magnetic luminescence that has been drawing artists to the
regional produce – an approach that, he says jokingly, he
French Riviera for centuries.
adopted “before it was fashionable”. He might hail from
It seems a long way from Donckele’s childhood
Normandy, but his unwavering commitment to exploring
surroundings in the agricultural heartlands of Normandy,
and experimenting with the district’s ingredients means
where he lived with his family on an entirely self-sufficient
that when he’s in the South he can often be found picking fig
farm in the village of Catenay until the age of 11. “Honestly,
leaves from the restaurant’s offsite vegetable garden, Jardin
my dream would have been to be a farmer,” he says of his
de la Piboule, or stepping off a fishing boat brandishing
early career aspirations. “It was fantastic.”
freshly-caught lobster. “I am an autodidact when it comes
Donckele, alas, was not in his family’s line of succession
to Provence,” he says. The restaurant’s cuisine is just as
for the farm – but agriculture’s loss was gastronomy’s
rooted in this sense of place, notably in the way that it
gain. Today, he is one of France’s most elite chefs, having
elevates local species such as leerfish, which are native to
utilised his early training in self-sufficiency to carve out an
Meditarranean waters, to the level of haute cuisine. “It is a
extraordinary career in the upper echelons of its culinary
true representation of the soul of the people here, and the
sector. He first took the reins at La Vague d’Or in 2004
environment,” he asserts.
(which at the time was part of Résidence de la Pinede, a
As such, dinner at La Vague d’Or might start with crispy,
026
SERVICE
At La Vague d’Or, Donckele is famous for his hands-on approach to working with local agriculturists to promote regional produce
melt-in-the-mouth courgette flowers pressed into delicate, parmesan-tinged wafers that act as a tribute to the homegrown artistic legend Cézanne. A potager dubbed ‘Calin de la Piboule’ features a composition of texturised and colourful vegetables served with flowery black olive velours, its sunbursts of sweet, vineripened tomatoes an homage to the region of Le Var. A dish of roasted John Dory with marine plankton sees violin and ball courgettes steamed with sea plankton, oyster steam, seared clams
“I compare sauce to a person’s soul... A sauce is uncopyable; it’s alive. You can’t cheat with a sauce – in fact, you have to give it everything, you have to be sincere.”
his food, Donckele says: “Something that kindles memory – what interests me is finding memories. All the planets have to be aligned for it to work.” This Proustian quest to evoke nostalgia and emotion is pushed even further at Plénitude, the Parisian restaurant he opened last September. “I called it Plénitude because I myself am more fulfilled than I was,” he reveals of the moniker, a French word that translates to something beween ‘satisfaction’ and ‘fulfilment’. “I’m more comfortable in my
and haliotis in lemon olive oil broth, creating
art than I was before; I had a bit of imposter
a symphony of flavours and consistencies
syndrome when I got my three stars, but now
that elicit the crossover between land and
I’m more comfortable in who I am. I’m in a
sea. A zitone pasta dish features silky parcels
place of personal fulfilment.”
delicately filled with full-bodied black truffle
The venue’s audacious concept is centred
and foie gras, while the desserts spotlight the
on its sauces, with Donckele styling himself
acidic sharpness or sun-soaked sweetness of
as a saucier-chef, almost in the manner of a
the province’s fruits, from fragrant elderberries
master perfumer. Although the menu changes
to tart rhubarb.
seasonally, the essential philosophy isn’t
This layered, deliberately alchemic approach
dissimilar to that of La Vague d’Or, demonstrating
has brought Donckele a success that he seems
a penchant for seafood, and a single-minded
to have spent years trying to make sense of.
dedication to composing local fruits, vegetables and other produce with poetic élan. But it is
“When I got three Michelin stars I understood that everything I had done, I had done to try
as old-fashioned.” What he and his team did
the sauces – elaborate, layered and complex –
to capture my father’s attention,” he says. It
have, he recalls, was a common drive to make
that take centre stage. “I compare sauce to a
seems like a demandingly high bar to set; did
guests happy; to stir emotions and create lasting
person’s soul,” says the chef, explaining that in
it work? “Yes, I think so!” he laughs. “Beyond
memories. “I think we really had an obsession
the modern world, which is increasingly visual,
what he could have imagined, even.”
with wanting to offer people something great,
society has a tendency to overlook what’s on
something sincere,” he says.
the inside, in the same way that a sauce might
Perhaps he has also achieved more than he himself might once have imagined. Although
This collective pursuit of excellence resulted
not be considered as a thing of beauty at first
Donckele saw the great potential in La Vague
in a surprise third star, which put the hotel
glance. “And it is uncopyable,” he adds. “When
d’Or when he arrived at the restaurant 18 years
firmly on the map and, the chef says, changed
you make a dish and take a photo of it, it can
ago, its journey to international acclaim wasn’t
everything. “I didn’t believe it; we weren’t
be copied. A sauce is uncopyable; it’s alive. You
without its practical obstacles. “The setting
expecting it at all,” he asserts. “It took us two
can’t cheat with a sauce – in fact, you have to
was exceptional, but when we got two stars we
or three years to absorb it.” The subsequent
give it everything, you have to be sincere.” So
did it with six dishes on the menu, including
financial boost had a stabilising effect, and
invested has he become in the concept, that he
a bread dish,” he recollects of the adventure,
today the venue, which was moved under the
says: “I now consider myself more of a saucer
which saw the first star awarded in 2008 and
LVMH umbrella when the luxury conglomerate
than a cook.”
the second in 2010. “The dining room hadn’t
bought the hotel in 2016, is as comfortable as
It would be easy, listening to the talk of
been redone in 16 years; the kitchen in more
they come, its discreetly plush surroundings
planets, memories and souls, to categorise
than 20 years. By the time we got three stars, we
corresponding perfectly to the understated yet
Donckele as an idealist – but that would belie
had a bit more money behind us, but the dining
opulent aesthetic of the property as a whole.
the relentless dedication and conviction to that
room was still just as old, and the kitchen just
Asked what he is trying to express through
has led him to where he is today. “I don’t put my
027
SERVICE
The chef takes a layered, deliberately alchemic approach to exploiting flavours and textures
028
name to mid-range restaurants; that’s not really
faire.” He credits Bernard Arnaud, the CEO of
my thing,” he explains in a modestly matter-
LVMH, with supporting the artistic visions of
of-fact way. “I love gastronomic restaurants;
those who work for him, but also welcomes the
that’s something that pleases me enormously.
occasional constraints of modern business and
What makes me happy is encountering people
the creative challenges they can pose. “What is
who are passionate and engaging.”
interesting about hotels is that you never have
Quick to credit his team, Donckele clearly
carte blanche,” he conceeds. “At some point
values the concept of working as part of a
you’ll be required to create things according to
spirited collective, which might also go some
guests’ requests. It keeps things interesting.”
way to explaining why both of his restaurants
He credits his success to an inate perfectionism
are located in hotels. “I think that I’ve mastered
and deep-seated sense of responsibility towards
hotel cooking – that is to say, I’m able to have
his colleagues, business associates, family
an opinion on many things,” he reflects of
and guests, admitting: “My secret, I think, is
the 24/7 nature of life in the kitchen at Cheval
always having the impression that I’m not any
Blanc St-Tropez, where the teams work at all
good, and being afraid of disappointing people,
hours to provide guests with fresh baguettes,
because that’s a constant source of anxiety for
flaky croissants and gourmet salads throughout
me: I’m afraid of letting people down.”
the day, in addition to the elaborate tasting
Not to mention an intrinsic creative obsession
menus of La Vague d’Or that come to the fore
that so often comes with the territory. “I think
once the sun goes down. “I’m not only good
creativity is a muscle,” he says. “You just have
at gastronomic cuisine; I can get involved
to train it, you just have to be in that mindset.”
with the brasserie, I can get involved when
And how does he achieve that? “By thinking
it comes to room service, I have this savoir-
about nothing else!” comes the answer.
SERVICE
From Barcelona with Love Inspired by Spain’s trailblazing modernist artists and a passion for the Mediterranean, chef Rafa Zafra is dazzling diners at his new restaurant Amar in Barcelona’s historic El Palace hotel. Words: Renate Ruge • Photography: © Carlos Garralaga
Y
ou’re familiar with the work
restaurant Estimar, which he opened with his
of the great surrealist Catalan
partner Anna Gotanegra in 2016. The couple
artist, Joan Miró, right?” asks
met through a mutual passion for seafood;
Rafa Zafra, smoothing down his
Anna’s family has been in the fishing business
chef whites before taking a seat.
for five generations, sourcing the best from the
All is calm before service in his
Costa Brava’s Port of Roses.
new restaurant Amar Barcelona. He continues:
A bijoux, buzzy fish restaurant hidden in
“Miró wanted to portray nature as it would
an alleyway in the El Born district, Estimar
be depicted by a child – equipped with adult
garnered a cult-like following for its modern,
intelligence – in order to create with complete
simply-cooked seafood dishes, ranking number
freedom, expressing a playfulness in his art. He
one for two consecutive years on the Top 100+
inspired my approach to cook freely.”
European Gourmet Casual Restaurants by
We’re perched on stools at a long table in
OAD and winning two Repsol Suns. Repeating
the glass-fronted private dining room tucked
the successful formula, Zafra opened a sister
away by the entrance to Amar’s grand salon
restaurant in Madrid, and in 2020 he opened
in Barcelona’s grande dame El Palace. This
relaxed beachside eatery, Casa Jondal, in Ibiza.
corridor, which leads diners to the restaurant,
Zafra, the former Head Chef of El Bulli, also
is tiled in golden mother of pearl and lined with
spearheaded the Adrià brothers’ popular Heart
gold refrigerated glass boxes displaying fresh
Ibiza restaurant, and in 2008 became one of
fish hanging on hooks. It’s perhaps not what
the youngest Spanish cooks to be awarded a
you would expect to see at the entrance of a
Michelin star. Now, however, his focus has
hotel that was once The Ritz, but it’s delightfully
turned to Amar, which he runs in collaboration
surprising all the same. And that’s the point.
with his team, Gotanegra and Ricardo Acquista,
It’s a nod to the fish counters at Zafra’s other
channelling his passion for serving superb
successful outposts, such as his first Barcelona
Mediterranean produce.
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Amar’s elegant seafood dishes include Marenne Oléron oysters and spider crab salad
“We want to ignite love for the Mediterranean Sea and evoke an emotional connection to Barcelona’s rich culture and gastronomy.”
The Seville-born chef first realised he could cook at the
we’ll be ready for them. Barcelona has been through a tough
age of 16, describing how his love of eating prompted his
time, and it’s on us all to add our grain of salt to get things
mother to teach him, and recalling how working in the
back on track.”
kitchen of his grandmother’s inn after school shaped his
General Manager Friedrich von Schönburg pops his head
future. “My ethos is all about simple, honest cooking and
around the door to see if we would like a look in the kitchen,
treating ingredients with love and care; it comes from my
explaining as we go that he had been looking for the right
mother,” he says.
chef to suit the concept and space, ever since he joined El
His resumé includes stints at some of Spain’s top
Palace in 2020. Only Zafra matched his vision, and the two
restaurants, where he trained with Juan Mari Arzak, Quique
joke about how the chef originally turned the project down,
Dacosta and Dani García. Zafra was part of a creative
only later signing up in the spring of 2021, leading to the
culinary revolution, spending a good part of his career in
development of a great friendship.
the legendary El Bulli universe. “It was Albert and Ferran
We cross the resplendent dining room, which was designed
Adrià who showed me how to extract flavour, taking dishes
by Eva Pous and Elena Prats Rubies. The walls are painted
to a whole other level of sophistication,” he remembers. But
in a custom blended hue of midnight blue: by day, light
like his mentors, Zafra keeps looking forward, knowing that
floods the room, and come dusk, the drapes are drawn
the guest experience is king. “The happiness of our guests
so the salon becomes warm and inviting with cushioned
lies at the heart of everything we do,” he says.
banquettes. An original antique chandelier glitters at its
At Amar, which is Spanish for ‘to love’, this translates to
centre and gold cornicing creates a soft glow. Framed paper
delectable seafood dishes like the signature starter (and El
artworks by Catalan artist Ana Paúl add texture and an
Bulli tribute) of sublime langoustine carpaccio, a spider crab
inviting rectangular gold bar makes a glamorous statement.
salad served with zesty Romesco sauce and tarragon jelly,
“I’ve got the luxury of space here,” says Zafra, who
and a next-level seafood platter. Marenne Oléron oysters
has created an elevated food offering to suit the elegant
– Zafra’s homage to Albert Adrià – are prepared in various
surrounds. “Estimar is simply about the purity of ingredients
clever ways, including with bloody Mary and ponzu sauces.
with a maximum of three or four on the plate. At Amar,
The spider crab cannelloni with chicken broth and sea urchin
there’s much more freedom to create dishes with historical
is a standout main course, while a fruit dessert served over
references to El Palace’s past.” His classic sole meunière
ice on a golden stand resembles a painting.
and fillet steak Rossini are among his tributes to the historic
“We want to ignite love for the Mediterranean Sea and
location, which first opened as a hotel in 1919.
evoke an emotional connection to Barcelona’s rich culture
Reflecting that the team’s journey is only just beginning,
and gastronomy through this collaboration – a fusion of
Zafra says: “We’re still developing the menu and blending
my team’s passion for cooking and El Palace’s tradition of
two worlds, and while the creative fusion of past and present
hospitality in a hotel that has been part of the city for 103
is not an easy mix, we’ve got it right so far, but we’ll keep
years,” says Zafra. “We’ve become one big family. I opened
perfecting to achieve an innovative gastronomic experience
Estimar seven years ago and the locals have embraced,
where history and modernity evolve in parallel.”
supported and followed us ever since, so Amar is intended
Celebrating the flavours of Spain on the plate is also a
as a thank you, to give something back to Barcelona, a city
key focus area for him. “We’re so fortunate, ours is a rich
we love, and of course is the inspiration for the name.”
country,” Zafra says. “Nowhere in the world rivals our
He also believes that it was the perfect time to open,
offering – of seafood, meat, game and jamon, wine, vinegar,
thanks to El Palace’s rooftop space. “People like to eat al
olives, olive oil – all of it. When my international chef friends
fresco, by the beach on terraces and rooftops in summer,”
come here from Japan, Peru, or even France, they can’t
he says. “But when the season fades and they head indoors,
believe how incredible Spanish produce is.”
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Zafra’s star ingredient is la gamba – particularly the
we encourage a professional atmosphere, we have fun
intensely flavoured red shrimps from Dénia – which
and creating a new restaurant in itself has brought
he believes is best eaten solo, describing it as “a
people together like a family at Amar,” he says. Head
maiden of gastronomy”. He also loves flavourful sea
Chef Gonzalo Hernández nods in agreement.
urchins and frequently enhances dishes with caviar.
will be visiting his mentors, Ferran and Albert Adriá.
“Japan is so inspiring for the simplicity of its cuisine,”
“I really admire the chefs of San Sebastian,” he says,
he says. “There’s a purity and freshness I admire,
also citing the three-Michelin-starred Roca brothers
where just two ingredients are paired on a plate. It’s
from Girona’s El Celler de Can Roca as being among
wonderful. Mexico also has some of the best food in
his culinary heroes.
the world – after Spain, of course,” he laughs.
Amar’s resplendent dining room pays tribute to El Palace’s glamorous heritage
034
Tomorrow is Sunday and a rare day off, so Zafra
Travelling has expanded his culinary horizons.
With an elegant dining space, close-knit team and
Behind the scenes, the Amar team is preparing for
showstopping menu, Amar is on course for great
service with a quiet focus, although the atmosphere
things, but is Zafra reaching for the stars? It would
is amiable. Zafra talks about the team’s diligence and
be a mistake to assume that accolades are important
obsession with detail. “I am a perfectionist when it
to the chef. “I simply want diners to feel comfortable
comes to sauces and the cooking itself, but there’s
and enjoy eating here,” he says. “It’s about satisfying
also lots to consider in plating and presentation
guests, whether they pop in for a taster or are
outside of the kitchen,” he acknowledges. But he
celebrating the full menu.”
insists: “Everything starts with the food. There’s
As the restaurant fills up, diners greet the Maître
little point in a place that’s all about style, music and
d’ Pablo Wübbe and Zafra beams: “The greatest
atmosphere without great food.” Workplace wellbeing,
recognition for me is in the guests who love it so much
nonetheless, clearly forms an important part of his
they make their next reservation at the end of their
recipe for success, and his warmth emanates. “While
meal.” It appears several of them already have.
At Steelite, we believe that tableware should do more than serve your food – it should serve your vision. We design, craft and curate the very best in tableware for chefs and concepts across the globe.
W W W. S T E E L I T E .C O M ATLANTA • CHICAGO • HONG KONG • LONDON • LOS ANGELES • MADRID • NEW YORK • TORONTO • WASHINGTON, D.C. • YOUNGSTOWN, OHIO
Raising the Bar As Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts expands its F&B portfolio, the group’s new Global Head of Restaurants & Bars and Senior Vice President of Food & Beverage Kimberly Grant discusses the importance of creativity, creating opportunities and social media. Words: Shanna McGoldrick
PROFILE Kimberly Grant Global Head of Restaurants & Bars, Senior Vice President, Food & Beverage Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts Kimberly Grant’s extensive hospitality industry experience includes everything from front-of-house positions to a stint as COO. In her new role as Global Head of Restaurants & Bars at Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts, she is charged with leading the worldwide food and beverage operations, working across the group’s 550+ restaurant and bar outlets in properties across 47 countries. With more than 50 projects currently under development, she is constantly seeking out new trends and opportunities to strenghten the group’s culinary portfolio. Upcoming Openings: Four Seasons Resort Tamarindo (2022); Four Seasons Hotel and Private Residences Cartagena (2023); Four Seasons Resort and Residences Caye Chapel, Belize (2024); Hotel Danieli, Venice (2025)
036
Hospitality group Four Seasons Hotels &
companies to strive constantly for excellence.
Resorts is expanding its extensive F&B offering
“For many of our guests, their first experience
with renewed focus and investment. This
with Four Seasons is dining,” she reveals. “Our
year, the brand underlined its commitment to
job is to try to transform those first transactions
strengthening its presence in the domain by
into lifetime connections.”
appointing Kimberly Grant to the newly-created
Out-of-town travellers aren’t the only
position of Global Head of Restaurants & Bars
demographic seeking out compelling F&B
and Senior Vice President of Food & Beverage.
experiences. In many of Four Seasons’ urban
Grant also helms the Four Seasons Restaurant
locations, non-hotel guests and locals typically
& Bar Group, where she has been tasked with
make up a large portion of the covers –
pushing the envelope on innovative concepts,
sometimes accounting for as much as 60% or
elevating existing outlets, attracting top talent
70% of the tables. “We actually view ourselves as
and unifying the operations process across the
independent restaurants within the communities
brand’s portfolio worldwide.
that we serve,” says Grant, citing diners who say
THE F&B GATEWAY
they’re going to eat at Le George rather than at the Four Seasons when they’re in Paris. “We view
Four Seasons’ luxurious legacy has inspired a
it as flipping the script on the hotel restaurant.”
loyal following among well-travelled guests – but
She adds: “We just happen to be a restaurant
as Grant points out, it’s the F&B pillar that often
that is located within a hotel – we’re not a hotel
serves as the entry point for those discovering
restaurant. If we think of it from that perspective,
the brand for the first time. Its portfolio of more
then appealing to local consumers is mission
than 550 outlets runs the gamut from coffee
critical in every way.”
shops to Michelin-starred venues, and staying ahead of the curve is critical. “We’re mavericks
CREATING CELEBRITIES
in what we do – we always have been,” says
The Four Seasons portfolio currently holds
Grant, who believes that the core principles of the
28 Michelin stars globally, spread across 21
Four Seasons F&B policy are rooted in creativity,
restaurants in 16 hotels. The group’s emphasis on
innovation and open-mindedness. Guests are
culinary leadership has attracted an impressive
more discenring in the post-pandemic era, she
roster of pioneering, high-profile chefs and
believes, underscoring the need for hospitality
prestigious gastronomic talents; among them
© Christian Horan Photography
SERVICE
French star Anne-Sophie Pic and sushi master
well-documented staffing shortage issues.
pillar also takes a double-pronged approach to
Takashi Saito. But while big names certainly
An open-minded approach means that not
the issue. “The first is really about providing
have their place in the company’s kitchens,
all employment opportunities are dependent
guests with food and beverage with integrity,”
Grant is keen to highlight the internal pathways
on previous hotel industry experience either,
says Grant. Allowing for trend shifts, she believes
open to employees. “We have a track record
“because of our approach as independent
that the typical Four Seasons guest generally
for successfully developing our own celebrity
restaurateurs” she explains. “You can have
wants “food that is clean, in its purest form
chefs, in a way,” she says, citing Chef Simone
worked in all different types of formats and
possible,” driving a focus on locally-sourced,
Zanoni as an example. “The charismatic, very
venues, we can find a place for you to really
seasonal ingredients. The group is also working
creative craftswomen and men that we have in
thrive within our organisation.”
towards eliminating the use of environmentally
our restaurant and bar world – the ‘celebrities’
harmful materials and tackling food waste. It’s
so to speak – push the envelope for our brand
SUSTAINABLE REINVENTION
and creativity.”
Although the group’s growth means new
sure our menus and our offerings are streamlined,
Part of Four Seasons’ role, as she sees it, is
opening announcements are commonplace –
while also offering our guests choice and enough
to remain sufficiently relevant and dynamic
recent noteworthy projects include Nashville
variety to get them excited”.
to offer its staff sought-after venues that also
and Minneapolis – Four Seasons is no stranger
It all comes back to being part of the
encourage career development. The beauty of the
to renovations. “We spend a lot of time working
conversation. “We want to be on ‘the list’, so
company, she believes, lies in the multitude of
on innovating within our current properties,”
to speak,” says Grant, referring to the culinary
opportunities available to staff. “If you want to
explains Grant, adding that the life cycle of a
recommendations travellers make to friends and
travel the world or learn different techniques and
restaurant lease is shorter than it used to be. “Ten
family. This year, Four Seasons is on track to
cuisines, you can,” she says. “You can become
years is a long time for the same concept to be
serve around 20 million guests globally, with
an expert at Japanese cuisine, steak houses or
vibrant and relevant,” she says. “So whether we
most likely to evaluate their stay in some way
French bistro all within the same organisation;
evolve and innovate within the existing concept,
via social media. The brand measures the online
you don’t have to leave the security of a brand
or we reimagine something entirely new, we
output studiously: “We want to be a part of those
and a culture that really inspires you,” she says.
spend quite a bit of time doing that within our
conversations that are just natural and socially-
“I think that’s one of the best things that we
existing portfolio.”
ignited; that’s what success looks like for our
imperative, she says, that brands are “making
offer as a group; we come up with experiences
The challenge, of course, lies in striking the
concepts and our venues,” asserts Grant. “Word
for team members who are looking to make a
balance between relevance and sustainability.
of mouth is the most powerful asset that we
career out of this.”
Four Seasons operates various initiatives that
have.” But how does the group intend to drive
This variation, Grant believes, can also be an
support its larger overarching environmental,
it? The answer is clear: “One guest at a time, one
effective antidote to the hospitality industry’s
social and governance platform, but the F&B
experience at a time, one memory at a time.”
037
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The Twenty Two LONDON
Words: Shanna McGoldrick Photography: © Philip Sinden
IN A BITE Owner: Navid Mirtorabi Interior Design: Natalia Miyar Atelier Executive Chef: Alan Christie Managing Director: Darius Namdar www.the22.london
038
L
ondon has welcomed a genteel new luxury
Full English to house-made granola with
hideaway in the form of the converted
poached pear, ricotta and London honey. Lunch
Edwardian manor The Twenty Two. Located
and dinner menus change seasonally, though
on Grosvenor Square, the venue houses 31
current highlights include Devonshire crab
bedrooms and suites, an all-day neighbourhood
salad, grilled langoustines and grass-fed ribeye,
restaurant and private members’ club.
polished off with desserts such as whipped
“My ambition for The Twenty Two was
lemon curd with vanilla custard.
to create a space where the creative and the
“I wanted to create a restaurant where the
curious, in London and globally, can come
menus flow harmoniously from breakfast to
together and feel welcome; a living room of sorts
lunch to dinner, made up of dishes that evoke a
where guests feel inspired and at home in their
subtle, comforting familiarity, some light and
surroundings,” says proprietor Navid Mirtorabi
fresh, some indulgent, but all executed to the
of the venture. Drawn to the Parisian feel of the
highest standards and with the best quality,
building’s exterior, he partnered with interior
seasonal ingredients,” says Christie.
designer Natalia Miyar Atelier to reinterpret 18th
Managing Director Darius Namdar, whose
century classical French design for the modern
career includes stints with Corbin & King and
guest through rich, playful textures and custom
at Chiltern Firehouse, adds: “Our vision is to
upholstered pieces.
instil a more playful side to Mayfair. We want
The restaurant, meanwhile, is spearheaded
everyone who passes through The Twenty Two
by Executive Chef Alan Christie and serves
to experience exceptional service, be greeted
British classics with a Mediterranean twist.
with a smile and, most importantly, feel
For breakfast, Christie has reimagined time-
welcome and accepted, whilst enjoying the best
honoured favourites, running the gamut from
hospitality London has to offer.”
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Rhumbar The Mirage LAS VEGAS
Words: Eleanor Howard Photography: © Bailey Made
IN A BITE Operator: MGM International Interior Design: Basile Studio www.mirage.com
040
T
he Mirage, a well-established fixture
alongside curving velvet banquettes and mod
on the Las Vegas Strip, has unveiled a
pink bucket seats with brass piping.
multi-million dollar transformation of
Extending the design concept outside, Basile
its cocktail bar into an ‘ultra lounge’, featuring
Studio furnished the adjacent terrace – accessed
a new design scheme, drinks programme and
via saloon-style swinging doors - with brass
nightly entertainment.
marquee lights and custom-designed umbrellas
Designed by South California-based Basile
complete with fringe detailing and hanging
Studio, the tropical oasis is reminiscent of
planters. The centrepiece however, is a Mid-
old Las Vegas, characterised by a palette of
Century-inspired pink scallop bloom bar clad
pink, ochre and brass, and complemented by
with starburst tiles. A retro TV built into the
verdant foliage and Seventies-inspired prints.
shelving plays vintage music videos on a loop,
Surrounded by breezeblock walls and softened
while a custom DJ booth fashioned from an
by pink velvet curtains, the space is anchored
old 1960s media console and a meticulously
by a 12m polished brass bar accented with pink
restored juke box allow for a soundtrack that
fluted tiles and gold bar stools. Other FF&E
transports guests to another time.
selections include a host stand fashioned from
For high-rollers, the lounge also boasts a
hot rolled steel that is powder-coated in a sweet
private entrance leading to a VIP section, where
shade of dusty rose, as well as handmade stained
bar bites, a refined cigar menu and signature
beechwood lamps and brass cocktail tables with
cocktails are on offer. The new beverage
Corian acrylic tops – all materials reflective of
programme, by MGM Resorts Executive Director
the era. Furniture, meanwhile, ranges from teak
of Beverage Julian Cox, completes the retro
booths topped with mustard-yellow cushions to
concept, featuring specialty cocktails such as
an eclectic mix of custom Mid-Century pieces
the Surfrider Mai Tai and 100 Foot Wave.
1.360.650.1111
woodstone-corp.com
STARTER
Indego by Vineet Grosvenor House DUBAI
E
ven old favourites can sometimes benefit
layers of rich texture and pattern that make up
from adopting a new look, and so it is in
the aesthetic, while the dining room has been
Dubai’s glamorous Marina district, where
transformed into an open kitchen, with its
the acclaimed chef Vineet Bhatia’s fine-dining restaurant Indego by Vineet recently underwent a complete refurbishment.
Words: Shanna McGoldrick Photography: © Natelee Cocks
042
Beloved signature elements such as the restaurant’s Nataraja sculptures remain in
LW Design, the global firm behind the
place, as do the traditional Indian jhuttis
restaurant’s original 2012 setup, was charged
framed as artwork on the walls. The timber
with revamping and elevating the space, located
jhalli screens that previously lined the space
at lobby level in Grosvenor House, a Luxury
have been repurposed and relacquered in the
Collection Hotel. The overhaul includes the
brand’s signature red tone. Traditional design
addition of a new feature bar and private dining
statements have been paired with contemporary
room, while the lines between the venue’s
furnishings such as lounging chairs and tri-
indoor and outdoor spaces have been blurred,
coloured banquettes, with a rich palette of
offering diners uninterrupted marina views.
emerald green and orange hues acting as a
Guests now enter the venue through a large
IN A BITE Operator: Marriott International Interior Design: LW Design Chef: Vineet Bhatia www.indegobyvineet.com
counter clad in bespoke feather tiles.
tribute to the vibrancy of modern India.
green lacquered door featuring a custom brass
The opulent interior also comes with a refined
knocker, while inside, the foliage-inspired
new menu from Bhatia, who was the first Indian
wallpaper, eccentric feathered lamps and
chef-patron to be awarded a Michelin star.
bespoke soft feather chandelier made by Four
From streetfood-inspired snacks to tandoor and
Seasons Ramesh Gallery all reference a bygone
griddle-cooked classics, the culinary offering
age of Indian royalty. A statement black-and-
focuses on polished, playful dishes that are
white chequered floor provides the basis for the
rooted in traditional Indian flavours.
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has
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designed to bring out the true appreciation of each wine». Chef Daniel Boulud
VILLENEUVE the new prestigious yet approachable collection by Chef & Sommelier.
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© Courtesy of The Madrid Edition
044
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The Madrid Edition MADRID The colour palette is as bold as the flavours on offer at The Edition’s new Spanish outpost, which places Latin American gastronomy at the heart of its culinary profile. Words: Agnish Ray • Photography: © Joe Thomas (unless otherwise stated)
ince Studio 54 closed its doors for the last time in
S
At Jerónimo, one dining area features dark, chocolatey oak
1980, its founder Ian Schrager has been a definitive
wall panels and richly contrasting mustard yellow leather
voice in developing the concept of the boutique hotel
seating; in another section, hot pink and scarlet rugs line
as a destination for hip crowds with a fondness for modern
the floors beneath tables made from wicker. At the end of
design and cutting-edge fashion, keeping the allure of his
the long, green central bar, an intimate area for eight diners
star-studded Manhattan venue alive through brands like
sits against a multi-hued blue backdrop with velvet seats
Edition and Public. Earlier this year – in what is thought to
to match.
be one of the final Edition hotels that Schrager will personally
Like the food on offer here, the colour choices are an
be involved in before turning his attention to Public – he
homage to Mexico: the pink is close to the architect Luis
brought a taste of New York glamour to the Spanish capital
Barragán’s signature shade and the blue, while attributed to
with The Madrid Edition, whose restaurants bridge cultures
Yves Klein by the designers, also calls to mind La Casa Azul,
on both sides of the Atlantic.
Frida Kahlo’s home in Mexico City.
Aesthetics are paramount here, and, as expected, upon
Jerónimo counts restaurants in Mexico City, New York
entry the design statements come thick and fast. The first is
and Los Angeles, but the Spanish location marks Olvera’s
the signature Edition spiral staircase: finished in shiny white
European debut. The menu pays tribute to the vibrant
Crema d’Orcia limestone, it is the work of British architect
flavours of his homeland: the aguachile is cool, fresh and
John Pawson, Schrager’s long-term collaborator who, along
bursting with flavour, the tiger prawns plump and succulent
with French designer François Champsaur, helped to create
in lime marinade and dusted with chiltepin chilli. The catch
the new property’s look and feel. The white theme continues
of the day, whether turbot or sea bass, is doused in red
into the monochromatic lobby bar, where an otherworldly
guajillo pepper, while the iberico pork in the cochinita pibil
Bianco Neve marble pool table designed by Emmanuel Levet
(barbequed pork) is rich with spicy xnipec and achiote.
Stenne stands surrounded by fluffy rugs, delicate Manila shawls and Jean-Michel Frank sofas.
For Olvera, dining table traditions while growing up in Mexico City were formative: he remembers vividly his
When it comes to the F&B spaces, though, the hotel goes
grandmother’s various plantain-based dishes and the
bold on colour. Two onsite restaurants take diners on a
octopus his mother would prepare as a birthday treat. His
voyage into Latin America, with Mexico’s Enrique Olvera
Madrid opening not only sees him contribute to the evolving
helming the flagship restaurant, Jerónimo, and Peru’s Diego
European conversation on Mexican cuisine, but it also
Muñoz overseeing the rooftop dining destination, Oroya.
affords him access to the continent’s own unique produce –
045
Jerónimo’s palette pays tribute to Mexico, while the interiors at Oroya play with textured foliage
including the fabled seafood from the northern
cage filled with more plants and coloured glass
coast of Spain. “The Carabinero prawns that we
panels that together resemble a greenhouse.
have access to in Madrid are sublime,” he says.
Out on the roof terrace, creepers wind their way
Despite the five-star setting, diners need
up the pergolas where diners tuck into Diego
not shy away from getting their hands messy
Muñoz led Lima’s fine-dining haven Astrid y
fish and sikil pak (a smoky pumpkin seed dip).
Gastón between 2012 and 2016, but most of his
With this touch of simplicity, Olvera champions
career has developed abroad, in countries like
the accessible and democratic function of the
Portugal, Denmark and the US. A key element of
small, ubiquitous tortilla, which he describes
the Schrager hotel empire, he handles the F&B
as “universal”. The corn taco’s presence on
at The Bodrum Edition in Turkey, as well as
the menu is also an homage to an ingredient
Public New York’s restaurant Popular.
under threat. According to Olvera, the diversity
His menu at Oroya honours the variety of
of Mexico’s corn varieties are at risk from
cultures, from Asian to African, that have found
the dominance of ultra-productive modified
a culinary home in Peru. The chef explains
grains. “It is increasingly rare to find black,
that his country’s natural diversity, which
green or red grains,” he says. “But there are
encompasses the Andes, the Amazon and the
as many varieties of corn grains as there are
coast, means its produce fits with the cuisines
microclimates in Mexico.”
of many different migrant communities.
Green plants in large terracotta pots populate the space, creating a lush, forest-like aesthetic.
046
Muñoz’s Peruvian plates.
here – soft tacos are used to scoop up the meat,
“Peruvian gastronomy is a conglomeration and celebration of all these cultures,” he explains.
There is a similarly fertile feeling upstairs at
The Japanese Nikkei population, resident
Oroya, whose indoor area is framed by a steel
in Peru since the turn of the 20th century, was
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047
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© Enrique Marco
048
instrumental in developing Peruvian ceviche,
The Madrid Edition is part of a wave of
which Muñoz serves as seabass sashimi with
international luxury brands that have set their
sweet potato emulsified into a leche de tigre
eyes on the Spanish capital in recent years, with
marinade. The Tusán community – Chinese
Four Seasons, Mandarin Oriental and Rosewood
Peruvians – are represented through dishes like
entering the market recently, and JW Marriott
glazed pork belly bao, and fragrant shrimp har
and Nobu on the way. While the three previous
gow dumplings bathed in a tangy parihuela, a
arrivals have provided homes in the capital for
potent Perivian seafood broth. The anticucho
some revered Spanish chefs – Málaga’s Dani
skewers are a popular street-food style of
García, Cantabria’s Jesús Sánchez and Valencia’s
grilled meat dating back to the Incas but whose
Quique Dacosta – it is notable that the city’s
flavours, Muñoz explains, developed among
new player has devoted its F&B to championing
African populations brought to Peru as slaves
the gastronomy of two major Latin American
under Spanish colonial rule.
countries and former Spanish colonies.
A highlight is the dessert of lucuma – a round,
Pawson says his design was inspired by the
Andean fruit – coated in chocolate and pistachio.
intense energy of Madrid, and that he sought to
Underneath a hard shell, the inside reveals a
create “an environment charged with its own
velvety blackberry, vanilla and rosemary sauce,
life and identity” adding that the city has “a
accompanied by light-as-air Chantilly cream.
particular energy and a strong sense of place”.
The beverage programme meanwhile sees
What the dining offer suggests is that Spain’s
mezcal and tequila take a leading role, featured
Peruvian and Mexican populations cannot be
most notably in a selection of margaritas,
absent from this identity, offering a gateway
including one that blends Cimarrón tequila with
into the flavours and traditions that make up an
habanero chilli.
integral part of this European nation’s history.
IN A BITE Operator: Marriott International Developer: Ian Schrager Company Interior Design: John Pawson, François Champsaur Head Chef: Enrique Olvera (Jeronimo), Diego Munoz (Oroya) F&B Manager: Jose Bernat Head Sommelier: Rocío Torres Serveware: Craster www.editionhotels.com/madrid
Intelligent Design Exceptional Experiences
Visit us at Craster.com
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Carton House MAYNOOTH Fairmont’s first Irish outpost draws in both guests and locals with its stellar F&B line-up showcasing the finest local produce the country has to offer. Words: Eleanor Howard • Photography: Courtesy of Accor
Q
ueen Victoria had her own bedroom
undergone an extensive renovation and
there; Grace Kelly and Prince Rainier
redesign led by McCauley Daye O’Connell
stayed for a holiday; and Peter Sellers
Architects. Recognising the historical charm
and Marianne Faithfull made it their home for
of the estate, the Irish architectural firm
years. With a history spanning more than eight
retained the bones of the house yet set about
centuries, Carton House has many tales to tell.
an extensive refurbishment to reactivate the
Situated in Maynooth, County Kildare, Carton
hotel’s lobby, guestrooms, conference rooms
House was once the ancestral home of the first
and historic Carriage House, merging heritage
Duke of Leinster, his wife Lady Emily and their
features with modern requirements. Touching
22 children. Set within 1,100 acres of sweeping
everything from structure to décor, the facelift
parkland, ancient woodlands and the meandering
spans details such as colourways, patterns and
River Rye, the 18th-century Palladian mansion
materiality, using historical references as a cue
was designed in 1739 by renowned architect
for the new look.
Richard Castle, before being remodelled by
Alongside the design refresh, the hotel has
Richard Morrison in 1817. Two centuries later,
completely overhauled its F&B programme to
the property was converted into a hotel, with
welcome a raft of new concepts, including a
a portion of the grounds transformed into two
fine-dining restaurant and an intimate whiskey
championship golf courses. More recently, the
library. The goal, according to Executive
sprawling estate found its way into the hands
Chef Gary Rogers, who oversees operations
of the Irish-American Mullen family, owners of
across the hotel, is to become the top F&B
the US-based Apple Vacations, who signed an
destination in Ireland. “Diners these days are
agreement with Accor to rebrand and manage
very knowledgeable about food, so we want to
the property as a Fairmont.
challenge them with something they may not
Seeking to retain its historic appeal whilst
have seen before and encourage them to try
attracting the next generation of discerning
something different,” he says. Also intrinsic to
travellers,
the overall F&B concept, as well as the wider
Carton
House
has
recently
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Alongside the design refresh, Carton House has welcomed a raft of new F&B concepts including a fine-dining experience and a kitchen-inspired rustic retreat
hotel, are sustainable practices; for example, the
enough to dine at the Chef’s Table have a front-row
hotel recently banned the use of overfished species –
seat to watch Head Chef Derek Kelly Jr and his team
including eel, wild sturgeon and bluefin tuna – in its
assemble a seasonal menu that offers a true taste of
kitchens, and now purchases from a local supplier that
Ireland using fresh locally-sourced ingredients, from
uses responsible fishing methods. There are also plans
pan fried Castletownbere scallops and Kilmore Quay
to introduce a vegetable garden onsite, with produce
Harbour cod to beech-smoked Jacob’s Ladder of beef
going directly into the kitchens. “We want to use
with a Carton House whiskey glaze. Recognising that
100% local ingredients, sourced as close to the hotel as
diners are increasingly interested in where their food
possible,” explains Rogers. “When people come here
comes from, each menu includes a list of suppliers,
to Carton House, it’s nice for them to enjoy products
from the Feighcullen poultry farm to McLoughlin’s
that have been reared or grown nearby, it adds to the
Butchers, both less than an hour away.
overall experience.”
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The House’s crowning jewel is undoubtedly The
Once a place of bustling activity, controlled chaos
Morrison Room, believed to be one of the grandest
and culinary skill, the old servants’ kitchens have
dining rooms in Ireland. Characterised by marble
been transformed into Kathleen’s Kitchen, a relaxed
columns and a carefully restored coffered ceiling
and rustic take on the tradition of culinary excellence.
with carved gold detailing, the space demands a
The overall concept is centred around the character
dining concept of equal grandeur, which is provided
of Kathleen, a fictional embodiment of the original
by Head Chef Charles Degrendele’s contemporary
housekeeper, who was a friend and confidant of Lady
craftsmanship on the plate through the use of old-
Emily. In a bid to keep the spirit of the kitchens alive,
school flavours, foraged elements and meticulous
MDO Architects opted to retain many of the original
cooking techniques. Originally from Marseille,
features, including the cast iron stoves, hanging
Degrendele spent the last two years working in
copper pots and ceramic tiles. Guests fortunate
Tokyo as Sous Chef at three-Michelin-starred French
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The Morrison Room’s everchanging eight-course tasting menu exudes strong French and Asian influences, using local and foraged ingredients
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restaurant Quintessence before turning his
and my time working in New Zealand, it’s about
talents to The Morrison Room.
Carton House and it’s about Thomas Clancy.”
The result is a constantly evolving eight-
In order to let the food take centre stage,
course tasting menu with strong French and
Degrendele was insistent on a pared back,
Asian influences, which draws on local and
minimalist table setting. “Previously it was
foraged ingredients to showcase some of
very French with all the tableware on display
Ireland’s artisan producers. Dishes currently
from the outset,” he explains. “For the new
on the eight-course tasting menu include
restaurant, we decided to keep it very simple, in
wood mushroom crisp canapés, citrus cured
line with the Japanese concept omakase, which
salmon paired with heirloom radish alongside
encourages diners to take ownership of their
cucumber and wasabi, and baked and pickled
own dining space.” Degrendele’s culinary style,
beetroot accompanied by St Tola goat’s curd and
which he describes as “artistic but simple”,
pine nuts. The star of the show, however, is
extends to the presentation. Anyone who
the estate honey panna cotta, which takes the
follows the chef on social media will be familiar
form of an intricate honeycomb, served with a
with the ‘cliff plate’, a dramatic visual display
meringue sorbet and a dusting of bee pollen.
used for dishes where a sauce is the star. “I put
Always looking to challenge both himself and
a lot of thought into each dish and how it is
his team, Degrendele replaced the sugar in the
presented,” says the chef. “Behind this plate is
Italian dessert with honey harvested by local
a ‘cliff’, the idea being that your eyes follow the
beekeeper Thomas Clancy from Carton House’s
drop of sauce as it roll down towards the food.”
very own beehives. “The panna cotta is the dish
The Head Chef also works with the hotel’s
I am most proud of because it encapsulates so
Director of F&B Thomas Lagrue to curate a
much,” reveals Degrendele. “It’s about myself
comprehensive wine pairing to complement
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each course’s flavour profile, featuring varieties
starting with The Duke’s Rest, an intimate space
from across Europe as well as a few sake options.
dedicated to wine tasting. The sommelier is
In contrast to the grandeur of the restaurants
on hand to lead guests through a three-wine
in the main hotel, the Fitzgerald family’s former
tasting, with the added bonus of a cheese and
carriage lodge has been reimagined as a relaxed
charcuterie board to complete the experience. As
retreat for hotel guests and golfers, blending
part of the property’s renovation and redesign,
the ambiance of a local tavern and the air of
the original library has been transformed into
a stylish social club with elevated gastro-pub
The Whiskey Library. Retaining the venue’s
fare on offer – the Korean chicken wings are
fundamental essence, the lounge is a place of
a treat. MDO Architects altered the interiors to
quiet reflection and intimacy, an ideal setting
reflect the centuries-long history of the estate,
for sampling a selection of the venue’s 120 pot
with a palette of deep blues inspired by the main
stills, malts and bourbons.
house’s 18th-century Chinese Boudoir where
A stay at Carton House is not complete
Queen Victoria stayed, and dark forest greens
without a nightcap at the Courtyard Bar.
echoing the mature trees outside. Anchoring
Situated at the heart of the property, the
the space is a large square central bar topped
setting itself is a dramatic interplay of light
with green marble, large leather bar stools and
and shadow that transforms the area with
solid brass lamps. Serving as the golf course’s
the seasons; sunlight streams in through a
unofficial 19th hole, the walls are adorned with
geometric skylight, bringing to life four potted
artwork reflective of the property’s recent
fig trees that frame the original courtyard walls.
history as a prominent golf venue.
Influenced by the enduring legacy of location,
Carton House’s extensive dining outlets are complemented by a robust bar and lounge offer
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Carton House succeeds in offering diners a true taste of Ireland.
IN A BITE Owner: The Mullen Family Operator: Accor Architecture and Interior Design: McCauley Daye O’Connell Architects F&B Consultant: Nicholas Du Gall Executive Chef: Gary Rogers Head Chefs: Charles Degrendele (The Morrison Room), Derek Kelly Jr (Kathleen’s Kitchen), Stephen Herron (The Carriage House) F&B Director: Thomas Lagrue Head Bartender: Mathieu Chretin Dinnerware: William Edwards Buffetware: Craster www.cartonhouse.com
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Pavyllon Hôtel Hermitage MONACO Chef Yannick Alléno breathes a breezy informality into the fine-dining scene on Monaco’s glitzy coastline. Words: Kristofer Thomas • Photography: © Monte-Carlo Société des Bains de Mer
W
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ith its reputation for being a
place in the wealth league while simultaneously
millionaire’s playground, Monaco
evolving to meet the changing values of luxury.
is one of the most reliable trend
The landmark multi-million redevelopment
barometers when it comes to the upper
of Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo in 2019, for
echelons of luxury. Synonymous with opulence,
example, saw the property adopt the sleeker
elegance, giga-yachts and high-rollers, the
metropolitan aesthetic that has come to define
principality’s main stretch of Monte Carlo is
the market’s aspirational inclination over
the most expensive city in the world: though
the last decade. Before that, the group’s first
just 0.28km2 in size, this sliver of glamorous
non-European project in Abu Dhabi ventured
Mediterranean coastline weighs in at the high
into ultra-luxe territory, translating Monaco’s
end of the scale, with the price of a single square
legacy for a new audience in the process.
foot averaging out at a cool €40,000. In short, if
Now, this wave of evolution has reached
it’s good enough for the special administrative
Monte Carlo’s F&B scene. Joining longstanding
region’s VIPs, consider it gospel for the rest of
favourites like Le Grill at Hôtel de Paris Monte-
the world’s rich and famous.
Carlo – helmed by veteran chef Franck Cerutti,
In recent years, this reputation has been
who has worked in the hotel’s kitchens for
challenged by the emergence of hedonistic
over 20 years – 2022 saw the city gain the
contenders in the Middle East and Asia. But
Lebanese restaurant Em Sherif and Pavyllon
shrewd management of key hospitality assets
at the Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo. While
via the government’s controlling stake in Société
the former offers a further nod to the influx
des Bains de Mer – group owner of Monaco’s
of Middle Eastern money, the latter marks the
legacy hotels, restaurants and entertainment
latest opening from the acclaimed chef Yannick
complexes – has seen Monte Carlo retain its
Alléno, who currently holds six Michelin stars.
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Pavyllon translates a modern French cuisine for the breezily glamorous Monégasque coast
This second Pavyllon outpost follows in
styling, the terrace and interior areas express
the footsteps of the Parisian original (which
quiet confidence in their lite-luxury leanings,
debuted in 2019 and went on to gain three
and, more importantly, fully allow the food to
Michelin stars), and eschews the stuffier formal
shine. “We have the same approach – Yannick on
tendencies of fine dining for an altogether
the plate, me with space,” explains Minassian.
lighter and breezier experience. Taking its cues
“We complement each other naturally, and for
from its coastal setting, the Monte Carlo venue
this project we worked hand-in-hand.”
translates the culinary offer onto a sun-soaked
This close collaboration – guided by an
terrace at the rear of the hotel. Retaining a
overarching Mediterranean influence – has
focus on modern French cuisine – particularly
resulted in an elegant aesthetic: the signature
the distinctive sauces and extractions that have
bar is made of metallic wood, the kitchen’s
elevated Alléno to 21st century F&B royalty – the
geometric tiles are offset with smoked mirrors,
restaurant also sees the return of its Parisian
and velvet and suede seats are complemented
predecessor’s counter concept, which provides
by a selection of cerused oak panels. This
up to 30 diners with front-row seats to observe
considered level of detail carries through to the
the culinary process.
tableware, with glazed porcelain plates by Jaune
The restaurant’s space was also curated, like the Paris venue, by the interior designer Chahan
060
de Chrome, matte steel cutlery by Mepra and decorative pieces by Sarah-Linda Forrer.
Minassian: it features a palette of cool teal and
This combination of rich depth and cheerful
soothing white shades, along with sophisticated
detail corresponds perfectly to the cuisine itself,
textures such as pale wood and hints of gold
with a set tasting menu providing a whistlestop
and brass. Deliberately restrained amidst the
tour of Pavyllon’s heart and soul. Highlights
grandeur of Hôtel Hermitage’s Belle Époque
include the distinctive texture of Iberian ham
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jelly and Basque cockles, followed by the sweet
Creator of exceptional moments for lovers of
tang of courgette and tomatoes served with
elegance, the connoisseurs’ hotel is happy to
grapes soused in cumin and coriander, then a
add an exciting culinary experience for both
classic soufflé with a steamed cheese twist and
Monégasques and our international visitors.”
smoked eel sauce, and finally veal medallion
So while yachts and champagne will always
with a parmesan crust. This savoury feast is
have a home in Monte Carlo, the principality
finished with a dessert of crispy feuilletine,
is evolving. The tendency for cities with such
almond ice cream and candied strawberries
eye-watering levels of wealth to stay rooted in
with elderflower syrup. The wider menu boasts
the trappings of historic luxury can often see
luxury staples of duck royale foie gras and
them become outdated once new money begins
caviar, as well as a surprisingly broad selection
to seek out the latest thrills, but in the Riviera’s
of pastas, but what sets these more traditional
crown jewel the concerted move towards a
dishes apart is the fact that they are presented
newer and innovative objective is palpable. The
through a lens of accessible luxury. This isn’t
presence of Pavyllon and its fresh twist on fine
so much casual fare as it is cooler, fresher and
dining is perhaps the most concise shorthand
more aligned with the newly-minted younger
for this process on show today.
audience set to define Monaco’s style and direction for a generation to come.
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“I am delighted to open Pavyllon at Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo,” says Alléno of the
As Louis Starck, Managing Director of Hôtel
project. “There is a real place for this cuisine
Hermitage Monte-Carlo, notes: “Our palace is
with the taste of the Riviera in the Principality,
continuing its reinvention while capitalising
in a stylish and informal atmosphere, and
on its exceptional heritage and its status as
I would like the residents of Monaco to take
an emblematic venue close to Place du Casino.
ownership of this restaurant.”
IN A BITE Operator: Hôtel Hermitage MonteCarlo, Monte-Carlo Société des Bains de Mer Interior Design: Chahan Minassian Executive Chef: Yannick Alléno www.montecarlosbm.com
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02/06/2022 08:54
The Retreat at Elcot Park BERKSHIRE The Signet Collection arrives in Berkshire for its second outpost, bringing fresh pan-Asian flair and modern European pizazz to a historical country pile. Words: Ianthe Butt • Photography: © Jake Eastham (unless otherwise stated)
G
ood things come to those who wait, goes the old
to different drums, the spine running through them is a
adage – and the expression certainly rings true at
top-notch food and beverage offering,” says Culinary and
The Retreat at Elcot Park. Hector Ross, founder of
Operations Director Ronnie Kimbugwe. At 1772 – named
the heritage-focused hospitality brand The Signet Collection,
after the date when ground was first broken here – which is
which made its roaring debut with The Mitre Hampton Court
overseen by the classically European-trained chef Andrew
in late 2020, first visited the Grade II listed, 18th-century
Watts, oysters and plates of harissa hummus topped with
building in rural Berkshire six years ago, while taking his
candied olives are served to laptop-tappers at jauntily-
son to a swimming class. Then a three-star property, the
striped stools at a gleaming 5m brass bar, decorated with a
building was unloved but had masses of potential, laying
fluted, lapis lazuli-coloured leather frontage.
claim to stretching Wessex Downs views and a rich history as
While there’s some menu crossover with The Mitre’s
the former home of the Romantic poet Percy Bysshe Shelley’s
café and wine bar Coppernose – such as the popular
family. “I fell in love with what it could be,” says Ross,
chicken Milanese with truffle crème fraîche, confit duck
who wrote to the owner’s representatives for five years with
and watermelon salad – new arrivals include Hampshire
no response. Eventually, though, his perseverance paid off:
watercress and spinach soup, as well as asparagus and lambs
during lockdown he finally reached the owner – who hadn’t
lettuce salads drizzled with whipped seaweed butter. Other
seen any of his letters – and soon enough, the deal was done.
Mitre classics have been given a 2.0 twist; the popcorn teriyaki
Now, the historic house has been given a playful 21st-
cauliflower sauce has a lighter glaze, the crab bruschetta has
century personality reboot by London-based interior design
been pimped up with samphire and sundried tomatoes, and
practice Taylor & Turner. As well as 55 dashing bedrooms,
the chocolate-centred bombolini are given a jammy whoosh
the property features two restaurants in the form of the
thanks to a vibrant pink raspberry sugar coating. Kimbugwe
36-cover Yü for pan-Asian fine dining, and the modern
wants every dish to act as a talking point. “My weapon is food
European all-day brasserie 1772. There are also three private
and drink,” he says. “I want people to feel something; food
dining rooms, including The St James Library, which is set to
is so much more than just fuel.” This ethos is underlined by
woo whisky aficionados with a 72-strong collection curated
conversation-sparking tableware, which includes dip-dye
in partnership with the heritge British wine and spirits
Grayshott jugs, tactile stone Typhoon plates and vibrantly-
merchant Berry Bros & Rudd.
coloured, hand-illustrated bespoke William Edwards pieces
“While The Mitre and The Retreat at Elcot Park dance
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inspired by the surrounding nature.
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© Astrid Templier
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Seafood is in the spotlight at all-day brasserie 1772, where Kimbugwe focuses on lesserknown, sustainable catches
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Indoor tables and an outdoor terrace look
From the burrata salad’s Isle of Wight
out towards the rural North Wessex Downs,
tomatoes to the Hertfordshire strawberries
and a 20m alfresco pool and Whispering Angel
that decorate the Elcot Mess, dishes here are
Bar are scheduled to open this summer. Given
rooted in British ingredients. On Sundays, the
the unpredictable English weather, Taylor &
venue serves a roster of roasts, featuring the
Turner’s colourful interiors – bottle green and
likes of Lincolnshire pork belly with apple
sapphire curved velvet banquettes beneath
sauce, maple glazed root vegetables and
sputnik chandelier lighting – deliver what
thyme and garlic roast potatoes. As for drinks,
Kimbugwe refers to as a “room full of smiles,
Whispering Angel, Bollinger and crémant loom
even if it’s dreary outside”.
large, alongside seasonal rhubarb martinis and
Seafood is a strong focus at 1772, with
Seedlip and elderflower mocktails, with darker
the menus driven by recommendations
spirits coming to the fore in the chillier months.
from trusted suppliers such as Kingfisher of
A third, adjoining dining spot also opened in
Brixham. Sustainability also remains front
June in the form of jungle-esque conservatory
of mind, with Kimbugwe planning to serve
The Orangery: it serves the same menu, offering
Megrim Sole meunière sprinkled with umami-
180 covers in total across the two venues.
popping dehydrated shrimps and lilliput capers.
Given the lack of Asian fine-dining
“Megrim sole isn’t commonly listed on menus,
restaurants in the local area, Kimbugwe was
as the public don’t know what it is, but for
keen to “offer something different” hence the
every Dover Sole that’s caught, they catch far
decision to provide pan-Asian cuisine at The
more Megrims,” he says. Ever the trendsetter,
Retreat’s second restaurant, Yü. The entrance,
Kimbugwe is of the attitude that “if you make
a dark navy blue corridor dominated by a
it delicious, then they’ll know”.
painting of a sari-clad woman, is designed to
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“make guests feel as though they are walking
Junmai Ginjo sparkling sake. Takeaway sushi
into Asia”, says the chef. There’s a measured
platters will, Kimbugwe hopes, “be a treat for
poetry to the intimate space, which is dressed
locals” while a bakery and wine shop are also
with fringed benches, woven antique fans, brass
open to the public in The Courtyard, a central
lighting and swaying paper lanterns. Head
space that houses a hair and nail salon, as well
Chef George Neil – described by Kimbugwe
as a monthly farmers’ market.
as “an Asian maestro” – has some 35 years’
The bedrooms are equally playful, designed
experience including time at Nobu and Zuma
as they are around a colour palette of apple
under his belt, which he demonstrates through
greens, lemon yellows, aquamarines and blush
dishes like edamame sprinkled with togarashi,
pinks. Taylor & Turner’s first hotel project is
delicate sushi platters, yellowtail sashimi with
full of verve, with the décor providing a sense
truffle ponzu dressing, squid dusted in shichimi
of escapism and fun. One suite features Watts of
salt with sweet chili, and vegetable gyoza served
Westminster’s pineapple-print wallpaper, while
atop goldfish-adorned jade green charger plates
another comes with handpainted wisteria on the
with slender crimson chopsticks.
bathroom walls and a kids’ room with glee-
Yü’s seven- or nine-course tasting menus
While it seems unlikely that guests will ever
Japan, Korea and China among other countries,
go hungry during a stay at The Retreat at Elcot
woven with Great British ingredients”, says
Park, communal honesty pantries offer up fresh
Kimbugwe. This approach is evidenced by dishes
fruit, homemade pork scratchings and West
such as asparagus and wild garlic maki rolls,
Berkshire Brewery beers, just in case a stopgap
Kennet Valley Vietnamese Muntjac curry, and
between feasting sessions is required.
strawberry mochi, accompanied by Akashi-Tai
068
inducing orange sherbet curtained bunk beds.
are “omakase in style, but take influences from
IN A BITE Owner: Hector Ross Operator: The Signet Collection Interior Design: Taylor & Turner Culinary Director: Ronnie Kimbugwe Head Chef: George Neil (Yü) F&B Manager: Vincent Freulon www.retreatelcotpark.com
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Warabi W Melbourne A Kappo dining experience in the heart of Melbourne blends Japanese technique with Australian attitude. Words: Shanna McGoldrick • Photography: Courtesy of Marriott International (unless otherwise stated)
I
t’s not often that diners are asked to inhale the scent of the meat they’re about to consume, but on a chilly autumnal night in Melbourne, Head Chef Jun Oya is holding out a
hunk of premium wagyu for his guests to inspect. Then he deftly gets to work with his knives, slicing and dicing while the couples seated at his kitchen station return to their sake, the sound of chatter mingling with the sizzle of the beef. Such is the reciprocal approach at Warabi, the sleek Japanese restaurant that opened its doors at W Melbourne in December 2021. The fourth addition to the hotel’s culinary offering, the spacious yet intimate 37-seat venue provides a fine-dining omakase experience that follows the dining principles of Kappo, a concept that translates directly to ‘cut and cook’, celebrating craftsmanship and precise preparation techniques. At Warabi, the ever-evolving nine-course menu revolves around umami-centric dishes prepared expertly and mesmerisingly in front of the diners, with each course delivered by the chefs, along with a succinct explanation of what’s on the plate and where the ingredients originated. “Genuine Japanese cuisine is expressed through Kappo and sushi, a Japanese technique that is simple and allows you to taste the deliciousness of the dashi and seafood ingredients according to the season,” explains Oya, who hails from Japan’s Shiga Prefecture on the island of Honshu.
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Warabi’s ever-changing menu is a spin through a diverse range of Japanese cooking techniques and flavour profiles
The space, with its high ceilings and sharp lines, combines
end, the sushi and sashimi courses feature snapper, bluefin
the neat minimalism of Japanese design with the energy
tuna and ora king salmon sourced from New Zealand, as well
and attitude of the W brand. Spearheaded by Tokyo-based
as gurnard and imperador caught locally in regional Victoria.
restaurant operator and consultancy Wa Creations – and
The kingfish and tuna belly come from Japan. The sashimi,
marking the company’s first project outside of Asia – the
served with soy sauce delicately flavoured with milled white
concept is imbued with Japanese cultural references, but
sesame seeds, is melt-in-the-mouth tender, while first-
local influences are woven through the narrative.
harvest nori and ginger root grown in New South Wales add
The Australian architecture and interior design studio
a crisp bite to the sushi morsels.
Hachem led the way with the decor, anchoring the
Tempting as it would be to devour nine courses of
restaurant’s central wraparound counter with a backlit onyx
masterfully-prepared raw fish, Warabi’s menu spins through
marble artwork that serves as a dramatic backdrop for the
a diverse range of culinary techniques and flavour profiles.
chefs as they prepare the dishes. In tune with its location
There is grilled toothfish sourced from the Australian
in the heart of Melbourne (just a stone’s throw from the
Antarctic – where it lives deep enough in the water to make it
city’s famous graffiti-filled laneways), a passageway clad in
extra fatty – marinated for at least three days and chargrilled
Victorian bluestone tiles leads to a private dining room that
on a high heat, before being served up with a yamamoto red
seats up to eight, boasting an original work by the Melbourne
berry on the side for tang. Marbled Tasmanian beef is deep
tattoo artist Timothy Dywelska. “We wanted to maintain
fried, katsu-style, around a knot of foie gras, and presented
some traditional Japanese aspects whilst incorporating the W
with a fresh wasabi leaf and red miso sauce made using
vibe in areas such as the fit-out, tableware and soundtrack,”
Japanese hot mustard for an extra kick, while udon noodles
explains Luke Clayton, Founder of Wa Creations.
come decorated with grated karasuni salted raw fish and
It’s an approach that the culinary team, led by Oya, have
salmon caviar from the nearby Yarra Valley. The homemade
also adopted to an extent. Though the dishes are intensley
dashi stock appears multiple times, both in jelly form, where
Japanese in flavour and texture, less traditional ingredients
it accompanies a shio-koji marinated scallop, and as the base
such as caviar, black truffle and foie gras appear throughout,
for a silky-smooth soup, in which sits a sea eel omelette.
adding an international touch to noodle dishes, omelettes
Dessert is a trio of mini treats with savoury elements,
and katsu beef.
spanning black sesame milky tofu, matcha tart and hojicha
Oya’s approach to sustainability and seasonality also means
ice cream. Earthy undertones feature heavily from beginning
that several of the ingredients are sourced from Australia
to end, with rich and meaty flavours deepening the essence
and New Zealand. “In Japan, we have four distinct seasons,
of almost every dish on the menu.
and the ingredients change with each season,” he says. “In
The culinary vision for Warabi was, according to Claton,
Melbourne, many of the seasonal ingredients we want to use
“to introduce a twist to the Japanese counter experience”.
are sometimes hard to procure, so we try to mix local and
He elaborates: “The majority are typically sushi only and we
imported ingredients according to the season to create dishes
wanted to introduce our contemporary take on the Kappo
that are familiar to the climate, land and culture.” To that
concept. Naturally we serve amazing sashimi and sushi, but
073
MAIN COURSE
© Lucas Allen
074
we also wanted many cooked dishes that are
of the Japanese saying ‘Nihonshu wa ryori
relatively simple in appearance yet complex
wo erabanai’, which loosely translates to a
in taste. We want the ingredients to speak for
directive for the drink to complement the food.
themselves and strive for each dish to be full
The offering also extends to bold and punchy
of umami.”
cocktails, and a comprehensive selection of
Chef Jun adds: “I want people to taste our
small-production wines and craft beers from
dashi stock, the true umami flavor and aroma
Australia. Colourful and vibrant, the menu takes
of each ingredient, and the cooking and
inspiration from the splashy hues that emerge
seasoning methods that bring out the best of
during the change of seasons between summer
the ingredients.”
and autumn in both Melbourne and Japan.
The chef has based his menu around the
Striking the right balance between two such
concept of mottainai, a Japanese word that
distinct cultures is never easy, but Warabi walks
conveys a sense of regret over waste. “We always
the line assertively. In a city with a food scene
respect all nature and its produce,” he explains.
as notoriously exigent as Melbourne’s, how did
“We are deeply grateful for the abundant gifts
Wa Creations adapt its strategy for its debut
of nature and promote sustainability in order
Australian concept? “The approach is always the
to pass on the bounty of the sea to the future.”
same regardless of the location,” says Clayton.
Accompanying the ceremonial style of the
“We require the following key ingredients:
cuisine is a diverse drinks list that highlights
access to a variety of fresh produce, chefs of a
different sake brewing styles originating from
high calibre, a knowledgeable service team, a
various regions of Japan. Sommelier and Venue
well thought-out beverage list and a luxurious
Manager Rosie Kim has curated both a sake
fit-out that heightens the guest experience. We
and wine offering that follows the principles
believe we have all of these at Warabi.”
IN A BITE Owner: Wa Creations Operator: W Melbourne Interior Design: Hachem F&B Consultant: Wa Creations Head Chef: Jun Oya F&B Manager: Rosie Kim Mixologist: Jean-Sebastien Labelle www.warabimelbourne.com
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13/06/2022 10:18:47
DINING
The Lancashire Larder With culinary tourism on the rise, Northcote enhances its offer with new menus and experiences that focus on the finest Lancashire produce. Words: Catherine Martin • Photography: Courtesy of Northcote
B
uilding loyalty and keeping guests coming back
in 1996, when Nigel Haworth was at the helm, Northcote has
for more is the holy grail for hotel operators. So
retained its star status every year since - that’s 26 years.
how then, in an increasingly competitive market
Not only does the accolade result in the 60-cover restaurant
in which shiny new openings typically garner the
being booked-up for both lunch and dinner service, it helps
most attention, can a long-established property
put heads in beds too. Over the years this has resulted in
maintain its appeal? For Nothcote – a hotel and
continued expansion. Built in the late 1800s as a private
Michelin-starred restaurant nestled in Lancashire’s Ribble
residence, Northcote opened as a hotel in 1979 with just
Valley – the answer lies in its culinary offer.
four guestrooms. When Bancroft came on board in 1983, he
“Having been established for nearly 40 years, Northcote
set about creating what he describes as “an oasis of food
has been able to create a multi-generation following that
and wine excellence with a genuine service and outstanding
keeps returning as we constantly improve and create new
hospitality”. Having begun his career as a kitchen porter,
reasons to visit,” explains Managing Director Craig Bancroft.
Bancroft’s CV includes stints in housekeeping as well as a
“However, the main reason for people to visit is our food;
chef position at Hôtel Plaza Athénée in Paris, roles that have
we pride ourselves on Northcote’s kitchen and in particular,
surely contributed to his ability to understand every aspect of
Lisa Goodwin-Allen, whose profile has grown over the last
running a hotel. At Northcote, he has spearheaded numerous
few years.”
developments, including a new state-of-the-art kitchen and
Indeed, the hotel’s Executive Chef – who has made TV
the phased addition of guestrooms bringing the total to 26.
appearances on Great British Menu and Masterchef – is
In 2019, the hotel entered a new era as it joined the Stafford
undoubtedly a draw. Lancashire-born Goodwin-Allen joined
Collection, a move that would bring fresh investment and
the brigade in 2001 at the tender age of 20, and has spent the
allow for further expansion. The acquisition has also served
past two decades rising through the ranks. At 23 she became
to bolster Northcote’s profile, with a raft of international
one of the youngest to take a Head Chef role in a Michelin-
guests at sister property The Stafford in London being
starred kitchen, and in 2017, was promoted to her current
introduced to Goodwin-Allen’s cuisine through her guiding
position of Executive Chef, giving her the opportunity to
role at the hotel’s F&B venues. Here, she has been working
focus on the development of new dishes as well as mentor
with The Stafford’s Executive Chef, Jozef Rogulski, to develop
younger members of the team. The Michelin star itself
new menus for The Game Bird, sharing her Michelin-starred
has major appeal too, so much so that the hotel boasts a
experience along the way.
99% eat-in rate for overnight guests. And perhaps more
Knowledge-sharing and collaboration has been
impressive is that, having first been recognised by Michelin
fundamental to Northcote’s success, both back- and front-
DINING
New dishes on the Spring Gourmet Menu include duck served with heirloom beetroot, aged balsamic and bee pollen, as well as roasted veal sweetbread with wild garlic
of-house. Guests can hone their skills at the hotel’s own cookery school, picking up tips and trade secrets from Head Tutor Bruno Birkbeck, who has been part of the Northcote family for over 20 years. The full-day courses take place in a special training kitchen kitted out with individual prep and cooking stations as well as overhead cameras, with the animated Birkbeck teaching everything from butchering a chicken to making silky-smooth sauces. With the school occupying a glass-fronted room overlooking the pass, pupils are also granted rare access to the inner workings of a Michelin-starred kitchen, taking in the sights and sounds of a service as they cook-up their own dishes. The professionals in the kitchen benefit
“We invest in our staff taking trips out to see growers because they have a greater respect for ingredients when they see them in the raw... We want to carry that story through the food to the customer.” LISA GOODWIN-ALLEN
the ever-hands-on Bancroft recounts tales of peeling sprouts into the early hours after being inundated with orders. The latest string to Northcote’s bow is its Artisan Foodie Adventure, a half- or fullday tour taking in the makers from across Lancashire. Though the hotel already has plenty to offer its guests, Bancroft wanted to introduce new experiences that would showcase the entire region. “The staycation market has evolved greatly over the last few years and guests are looking for experiential breaks,” he explains. “The Ribble Valley, particularly in the Forest of Bowland, has a fabulous reputation so we wanted to offer a stay that would connect the food-lover followers of Northcote to the location.”
from knowledge-sharing too, with Goodwin-
The tours are operated by Bowland & Bay, a
Allen particularly passionate about passing on
relatively new outfit established by Katie Wilson,
the skills and techniques she has mastered.
who spent 30 years in the food and drink trade
“It’s so important, not only for individuals in
before returning to her homeland to champion
the kitchen, but for the next generation of the
independent artisans. With an impeccable
hospitality industry,” she explains, pointing out
knowledge of the region and well-established
that the hotel offers an apprenticeship scheme
relationships with the locals, Wilson takes
for aspiring chefs. “I like to spend time cooking
Hartnett, Simon Rogan and Tom Kerridge have
guests out on the country roads, stopping off
with these young people to enthuse them; if I
participated in recent years, as well as James
at butchers, bakers and ice cream-makers to
can give them one tip that helps them on their
Martin, Monica Galetti and Claude Bosi, with
sample their delights and hear stories from the
career path, then I’ll know I’ve done my job.”
the headliners taking over the Northcote kitchen
producers themselves. “It’s in my nature to go
The programme has been hugely successful
on a nightly basis to create exclusive dishes for
out exploring, so I wanted to create something
for the hotel, with roles primarily filled by those
the lucky ticket-holders. Now in its 22nd year,
that gets people out into the countryside and
rising through the ranks rather than through
the event has established itself as a highlight of
connecting with locals,” says Wilson of the
external recruitment. A tour of the kitchen
the culinary calendar, so much so that the 2022
venture, adding that no two tours are alike. “The
reveals the fresh-faced youngsters, many of
edition saw more than 10,000 people apply for
quality of what’s happening here in terms of
them teenagers, honing their skills as they
the 750 available covers. It is once again Craig
food and drink is fantastic; the artisans we visit
move from section to section. Then there’s
Bancroft who can take credit for the venture,
are so passionate about the authenticity of their
Danny Young, who joined Northcote in 2010 at
having launched it in 2001 together with
product and people love hearing their stories.”
the age of 16, and has since worked his way
Nigel Haworth. And Bancroft has been savvy
On Supper’s tour, we sampled liquorice and
up to the position of Head Chef. This journey
in running the event in January, bringing in
blackcurrant-flavoured ice cream at Wallings
is testament to the people-first approach at
revenue during what is typically a slow month
Ice Cream Farm in Cockerham; heard how the
Northcote, which brings a family feel to the
for hospitality.
Beaume family, proprietors of The Cartford Inn
kitchen and development opportunities for
And the innovations don’t stop there.
in Little Eccleston, expanded their business to
Northcote has developed its own gin with
include an on-site deli stocking local produce;
Perhaps one of the greatest opportunities
craft distillery Lytham Gin, making use of
and chatted to third-generation cheesemaker
Northcote offers its chefs – aside from working
Lancashire burdock root and marsh samphire
Graham Kirkham of Mrs Kirkham’s, the
with Goodwin-Allen – is the chance to learn
from the Ribble estuary. The hotel weathered
very last farmhouse producer of raw-milk
from other greats through Obsession, the annual
the pandemic-induced lockdowns better than
Lancashire cheese. The family-run Pebby’s
gastronomic festival in which guest chefs host
most too, introducing the Gourmet Box for at-
Artisan Bakers were also on the agenda, as well
a two-week long celebration of food. Angela
home dining, which proved hugely successful;
as Goosnargh Gin in Beacon Fell and the award-
those within.
079
DINING
080
winning Hamlets Butchers in Garstang. To support these small
the Lancashire larder, as she likes to call it – in her dishes.
independent businesses, Wilson purchases something from
The new five-course Spring Gourmet Menu features halibut,
every stop, whether it be alcohol miniatures for the group to
duck and roasted veal sweetbread, accompanied by seasonal
take home, or speciality pies and pastries to tuck-in to along
ingredients such as asparagus, wild garlic, tarragon and sorrel,
the way.
all delivering on flavour and served with artistic flair. And
Back at Northcote, local produce is at the heart of the cuisine
while each course is a work of art, Goodwin-Allen is conscious
and Goodwin-Allen is passionate about sourcing from trusted
not to overload the senses; with a less-is-more approach, she
suppliers from across the region. “I’m a Lancashire lass
allows each and every ingredient to shine.
through and through and I think that we’re so lucky to have so
Eager to expand her skills and repertoire, Goodwin-Allen
many different things grown and produced around here,” she
develops a new Gourmet Menu four times per year while
explains. “Northcote has always been about supporting local,
the lunch menu is refreshed on a monthly basis. And if that
so I’ve grown up with it.” The chef is proactive in educating
doesn’t keep diners coming back, Northcote has yet more
her brigade on provenance too, believing that the dedication
to come. Revealed on Supper’s visit, the hotel is expanding
of the producer carries through to what is eventually served
with a new restaurant set to be built on site. Described as
on the plate. “We invest in our staff taking trips out to see
a sympathetic and environmentally-conscious newbuild on
growers because they have a greater respect for ingredients
the front lawn, the venture will enable Goodwin-Allen to
when they see them in the raw,” she confirms. “When there’s
focus on development, progressing her cuisine to another
just a sack of carrots that arrives at the back of the kitchen
level. “The design will showcase Lisa’s incredible cuisine and
there’s no love, they don’t see how much care and attention
give her a bespoke platform from which to deliver her unique
the farmer has put in. We want to carry that story through the
dining experience,” says Bancroft. With one eye on the dining
food to the customer.”
experience and another on ensuring there’s reason to return,
Spanning coast to countryside, across rivers, valleys, forest
he concludes: “This new restaurant will mean Northcote has a
and moorland, Lancashire is rich in produce and Goodwin-
choice of two dining experiences, giving guests more reasons
Allen is sure to make the most of the region’s bounty – or
to stay longer and enjoy Lancashire and the Ribble Valley.”
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SIGNATURE
Duck Raviolo Da Terra Town Hall Hotel LONDON
At Da Terra, the two-Michelin-starred restaurant set
Using the bird in its entirety is also important to the
within London’s Town Hall Hotel, the menu is guided
chef – hence a bill-to-tail approach to cooking the aged
by the concept of where we come from – so it was only
Peking ducks, which are sourced from Swaledale in the
natural that Chef-Owner Rafael Cagali would nod to his
Yorkshire Dales. The raviolo sits on a bed of watercress
partially-Italian heritage with the venue’s enduringly
purée and crispy duck skin crumble, and is served
popular Duck Raviolo. “Making pasta has always been
alongside a meticulously neat portion of sliced duck ham
quite therapeutic for me,” explains the chef.
that is made by curing the breast of the bird and drying
In fact, his signature dish features three different
it in muslin for around two weeks. A whey sauce is then
pasta doughs made from a classic, a chlorophyll and
whipped up using the byproduct of the restaurant’s in-
a charcoal mixture. Each dough is thinly sliced and
house butter-making process, before being caramelised,
measured, rolled together to create an eye-catchingly
dashed with cream and frothed. A jot of verjus and a
precise striped pattern, and filled with a duck ragù.
smatter of watercress leaves provide the finishing touch.
“Colour is a very important visual aspect of the dishes I
“People absolutely love the combination of flavours,”
make at Da Terra, so putting in the extra work with the
concludes Cagali of the dish’s winning formula. “If they
colours in the raviolo is worth it for me,” says Cagali.
are happy, I want to keep making it for them.” © Rebecca Dickson
SIGNATURE
Calamari with Pesto Genovese Varoulko Santorini Grace Hotel SANTORINI
Greek culinary luminary Lefteris Lazarou knows a
To make the dish, calamari fished from sparkling-
thing or two about exceptional seafood - the chef has
blue Greek waters is rinsed and its body finely sliced
been cooking up pescatarian delicacies in his Michelin-
into strips that are lightly fried in olive oil then briefly
starred Varoulko Seaside restaurant in Athens since
flambéd in ouzo until the alcohol evaporates. The meat
1987. Recently he brought his brand of ultra-fresh
is then seasoned and fried again in fresh pesto, before
coastal flavours to Santorini, serving up his beloved
being delicately placed on a bed of crispy golden-
Hellenic dishes at the island’s clifftop Grace Hotel.
brown potatoes, which are harvested on the isle of
One of these time-honoured offerings is Calamari with Pesto Genovese, which Lazarou first created back
Naxos. To finish, generous shavings of Graviera cheese from Crete bring a buttery, nutty contrast.
in 1994. “This dish is very personal to me,” says the
“I feel that this dish is an emblem of my creativity
chef. “The inspiration behind it comes from a story my
in the kitchen,” says Lazarou, who has adhered to
father told me about cooking squid, which was that in
his original recipe for almost 30 years, resisting the
order to kill it in preparation for eating, you must first
urge to tinker too much. “It is one of the reasons that
quench it with the Greek aperitif, ouzo.”
guests visit Varoulko time and time again.”
© Tryfon Georgopoulos – Hotel Art Photography
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SIPPING: SPECIAL FEATURE A PORTUGUESE PILGRIMAGE
A Portuguese Pilgrimage A slew of wine-anchored hospitality experiences is driving a renewed focus on boosting enotourism in Portugal.
P
ortugal’s sunkissed vineyards have been attracting domestic and international oenophiles alike for years, but a shift in thinking over the past decade has boosted the nation’s desire to use its cultural legacy in winemaking to drive tourism
in a more purposeful way. In 2021, as the country weathered the Covid-19 pandemic, its commitment to the cause was substantiated when The World Tourism Organization (UNWTO), Visit Portugal and the city of Reguengos de Monsaraz jointly hosted the fifth edition of the UNWTO Global Conference on Wine Tourism in collaboration with the Government of Portugal, placing the nation’s vinicultural history – and the subject of enotourism – firmly on the map. At the conference, the Minister of State, Economy & Digital Transition, Pedro Siza Vieira, announced plans to position Portugal as “one of the top destinations in wine tourism,” referring to the sector as a national strategic asset. He cited the Portugal’s ability to attract tourists with high purchasing power as an advantage that would permit the development of multiple winethemed attractions in various geographical regions and throughout the year, contributing to what he referred to as “territorial cohesion”. If the quality of the innovative, recently-launched enotourism experiences is anything to go by, the vision is certainly coming to life. A host of new concepts exploring the geographical diversity of the Portuguese mainland and its archipelagos has arisen in the last few years to satisfy an international thirst for oenological adventures – often accompanied by creative gastronomic and educational activities, ranging from luxury restaurants to engaging museums. In this special report, we explore three such projects, taking in a restorative winemaking effort in the volcanic territory of the Azores, an interactive cultural complex in Porto and a decadent winethemed hotel and spa in Lisbon.
087
SIPPING: SPECIAL FEATURE A PORTUGUESE PILGRIMAGE
Volcanic Viniculture The harsh conditions of the Azores pose serious challenges for winemaking, but a local producer is reviving a centuriesold viniculture system – with exciting results. Words: Elly Earls Photography: © Francisco Nogueira
I
f it’s not raining, there’s a hurricane. If there
it on your nose and know it comes from the
isn’t a hurricane, there’s a disease,” laughs
Azores,” Rocha says. “You can’t replicate it.”
Filipe Rocha, the co-owner of the Azores Wine
Pico has a long wine-producing history.
Company (AWC), which has been cultivating
In 2004, an area of almost 1,000 hectares of
wine on Pico Island in the Azores since 2014,
the island was designated a UNESCO World
despite the fact that it is one of the toughest
Heritage Site to protect the centuries-old
places to do so on the planet. “People who work
viniculture system that was largely decimated
in Douro on the Portuguese mainland think it’s
by phylloxera, a disease that swept through
difficult there until they come here; then it
Europe’s vineyards in the mid 1800s. Small
seems easy,” he grins.
rectangular plots of each vineyard are flanked by
But the challenges inherent in winemaking
currais (walls made from volcanic rock), which
on a volcanic island in the middle of the
have the twin benefits of protecting the vines
Atlantic Ocean are also the reason the results
from the wind and sea salt and maintaining a
are so impressive. Sometimes, Rocha and his
stable temperature for them throughout the day.
colleagues smile when other winemakers claim
It’s a system that provided a lifeline for
that their vineyards are close to the ocean.
islanders when nothing else would grow
“Theirs are 1km away; ours are 50m,” he
due to the rough volcanic terrain. Pico, the
shrugs. Consequently, the AWC team has to
highest mountain in Portugal, last erupted in
hand-build stone walls to protect their vines
1720. However, it is only in the last few years
from being battered by the strong ocean winds,
that Azorean wine, and the unique methods
but the taste of the salinity – or maresia, as the
behind its production, have really started to
Portuguese call the sea air – in every mouthful
gain recognition on the world stage, thanks to
of the local wines speaks for itself. “You put
producers like the AWC. When Rocha and his
089
090
SIPPING: SPECIAL FEATURE A PORTUGUESE PILGRIMAGE
a
e
partners António Maçanita and Paulo Machado
water the vines. The interior cloister recalls the
white wine in Portugal last year, in the face of
set up their company, only 130 hectares of Pico’s
island’s monasteries and connects every area
tough competition.
vineyards had been restored. With 30 people
of the facility - the accommodation, the tasting
working every day for three years, they managed
room, the restaurant and the winery.
Rocha claims the restaurant is not focused on achieving a Michelin star, but 25-year-old
to double that, building 900km of traditional
Wine tasting experiences, which take place
chef José Diogo Costa, who has worked at Gaa
currais. Now, there are 1,000 hectares, which is
daily between 2pm and 7pm, heavily feature the
and Gaggan in Bangkok, brings a delicate fine-
still less than 10% of what used to exist.
three main grapes planted by the AWC; Pico’s
dining touch inspired by his extensive travels
Last summer, the AWC also completed the
three indigenous varietals of Arinto dos Açores,
to the strong Azorean flavours that characterise
construction of its winery, which includes six
Verdelho and Terrantez do Pico, which was all
his dishes. The clarified and caramelised Rainha
apartments, a restaurant and a wine tasting
but extinct until the company committed to
do Pico butter with water bread is shockingly
room. The idea of the project – neither a
reviving it. While the varietals flight goes deep
moreish, while the beef tenderloin, which
hotel nor a winery exactly – is to replicate
into the differences and similarities between
comes with yacón, broccoli and toasted corn
the traditional Azorean way of enjoying wine.
the three grapes, the Portugal versus Spain
flour, melts away almost instantly in the mouth.
Historically, each vineyard on the island had
programme pits the local wines against their
Combined with the wines, the culinary offering
an adega – somewhere wine was not only
Spanish island counterparts.
provides a true taste of the island’s history.
produced, but imbibed with friends and family,
Guests will learn about why Azoreans always
Rocha, Maçanita and Machado wanted to
usually accompanied by a delicious, locally-
say the best wine comes from “where you can
create a venue that would be a landmark in
caught meal. There would often be a bed for
hear the crabs sing” (these vineyards receive
the Azorean wine business, marking a new
those who didn’t make it home.
more sunlight because they’re out of the shadow
beginning for an industry that feels like it
Designed by a duo of architectural firms -
of the mountain) and how trial and error has
has been stalled for over a century. Currently
SAMI from Portugal and DRDH from the UK
resulted in unusual production techniques, such
operating at only 20% capacity, it is both a
- the AWC’s winery with rooms is their nod
as horizontally positioned tanks. “We realised
winery for the future, when more vineyards
to that tradition. Its simple square, stone-
that the best wines came from the tanks that
have been restored, and one that draws on the
clad design continues the patterns of the
were laid down,” Rocha confirms.
co-operative spirit that has always typified
vineyards’ enclosures, with the apartment’s
For the full adega experience, guests only
wine production on Pico; smaller producers are
terraces bordering the vineyard itself. The
need to cross the cloisters to the restaurant,
welcome to use the AWC’s facilities if needed.
lower section of the building, which is closer
where they can pick from a tapas menu and
It has been a labour of love up to this point, but
to the sea, is almost invisible from the street,
wines by the glass, or the full tasting menu,
one that has already produced one of the best
while its overall shape echoes the old vineyard
paired with the best Azorean wines. These
wines in Portugal. The AWC team are not alone
water tanks, with a naturally sloping roof that
include the AWC’s internationally acclaimed
in their excitement at imagining what the next
harvests around 1,500m3 of water per year to
Vinha dos Utras 2019, which was voted the best
few years will bring.
091
A Whole New World An interactive wine-themed complex in the lively city of Porto provides a jumping-off point for discovering the region’s gastronomic, historic and cultural legacy. Words: Eleanor Howard
A
Willy Wonka-esque chocolate factory and a rosé
At the heart of the WoW project lies a deep respect and
palace that Wes Anderson would be proud are just a
appreciation for Porto – which is emerging from decades
few of the interactive installations on offer at Porto’s
spent in the shadow of its neighbours Lisbon and the Algarve
newest cultural experience, World of Wine (WoW).
created the cultural district to turn visitors into ambassadors
government (denoting it an economically significant
for the city, its culture, food, wines and ports,” says Bridge.
attraction), WoW occupies a series of centuries-old port wine
“We believe that the best way to do this is by drawing our
cellars and warehouses on the bank of the Douro River in
visitors into a new world, helping to contextualise the city
Vila Nova de Gaia, a historically significant location peppered
they are visiting, and the culture of its people. By creating
with traditional port wine houses. The 55,000m2 cultural hub
lasting experiences, we hope that WoW visitors will return
features seven interactive museums and 12 F&B experiences,
home and talk about their time in Porto, and what they have
as well as events and exhibition spaces, retail outlets and a
learnt in an authentic way, thus encouraging more people to
new wine school, all paying homage to the industries and
visit the city and discover what it has to offer.”
traditions of the region.
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– and a desire to see tourism prosper here. “Ultimately, we
Deemed a Project of National Interest by the Portuguese
The complex’s interactive experiences highlight the
Five years and €105 million in the making, WoW was first
region’s attributes, from port to cork, educating visitors in
launched in 2020, with various activations introduced since
the process. In 2021, WoW debuted The Wine School, which
then. It is the brainchild of the family-run holding company
guides visitors in developing and using wine expertise
Fladgate Partnership, which also owns well-known port
acquired elsewhere in the district by helping them test their
brands such as Taylor’s and Croft. Additionally, the group is
own palates through vinicultural workshops and training
the driving force behind several Portuguese hotels including
programmes designed for grape lovers, curious connoisseurs
The Yeatman and Infante Sagres in Porto, and The Vintage
and professionals. There are dedicated events for hospitality
House Hotel in the Douro Valley.
professionals too, such as thematic tastings with producers
“There is a clear evolutionary line between Fladgate’s past
and professors exploring niche topics like wine faults. The
experience in Portugal’s hospitality industry and the WoW
school can also tweak existing workshops or create bespoke
project,” says Adrian Bridge, CEO of Fladgate Partnership.
courses for those working in the hospitality industry.
“With its decanter-shaped pool and grape-based spa
Elsewhere, The Wine Experience and Porto Region Across
treatments, the opening of the landmark luxury hotel The
the Ages programmes provide a theoretical understanding
Yeatman was a defining moment for the destination, which
of Portuguese wine production from root and vine to grape
had clearly been transformed from a business hub to a
and glass. Bridge’s very own collection of historical drinking
sought-after leisure getaway. A decade later, our aim is to
vessels tell the story of humanity through the evolution of
keep travellers engaged with the city, having introduced one
beakers, bowls and chalices, while the Planet Cork exhibition
of the biggest cultural attractions in Portugal.”
offers visitors insight into an underplayed but innovative
SIPPING: SPECIAL FEATURE A PORTUGUESE PILGRIMAGE
© Paulo Carvalho © Numo 093
SIPPING: SPECIAL FEATURE A PORTUGUESE PILGRIMAGE
© Numo
094
industry, with Portugal being the world’s
spearheaded by Pedro Martins Araújo, WoW’s
largest producer of cork.
very own Willy Wonka. In true Fladgate fashion,
Though Porto’s most famous export is its
the interactive museum includes a wine and
eponymous fortified wine, the drink isn’t
chocolate workshop demonstrating how to pair
the sole focus here. According to Bridge, “to
the two flavour profiles, as well as offering
truly experience a city and its culture is to
opportunities to personalise bars of chocolate
experience its food”, so WoW’s robust F&B line-
and learn about the 5,000-year-old farming
up showcases gastronomic delights from the
and production methods that transform cacao
region. Highlights include Golden Catch, which
into chocolate.
serves fresh fish from the Portuguese coastline,
So, are gastronomic and experience-led
and steakhouse 1828, whose name is a nod to
initiatives such as WoW the future of tourism
the many adversities overcome by the city
in Portugal? “I certainly think so,” says Bridge.
and its people. The Angel’s Share bar, named
“After being stuck inside for so long during
after the small amount of wine that evaporates
the pandemic, people are desperate to have
from oak barrels during maturation, stocks an
a new type of experience when they travel.
extensive selection of wines by the glass and
Fly-and-flop holidays will always be popular
offers several signature wine cocktails.
but experiential travel has recently seen a
WoW wouldn’t be complete without a nod
huge boost and I believe it will continue to
to Portugal’s love of sweets, and the complex
for the foreseeable future. People are looking
houses its very own chocolate factory that
for something different from their holidays,
produces the Fladgate Partnership’s Vinte
a chance to broaden their minds and learn
The factory forms Vinte chocolate brand.
and at WoW we hope to provide this with our
part of The Chocolate Experience, which is
interactive and educational experiences.”
SAY CI AO
TO DRY
cuci el o_vermout h www. cuci el o. com #cuci el odry #i l t empovol a #dri nka ware
An Architectural Vintage Reborn A 300-year-old palacete in Lisbon proves to be the perfect setting for an upscale wine hotel, with grape-themed culinary and wellbeing experiences to match. Words: Renee Perenchio
n oenophile’s delight opened its doors this March at
A
The new owners chose not to evict the Instituto when
the intersection of Lisbon’s vibrant Chiado, Barrio
laying out the plans to transform the building into a 61-
Alto and Príncipe Real neighbourhoods. Hotel Palácio
key hotel, instead creating a new Instituto do Vinho do
Ludovice and Federico Restaurant & Bar, its centrepiece to
Porto storefront and tasting room just off the lobby. This
a variety of wine-inspired experiences, have brought new
partnership purposefully draws attention to the building’s
life to a 300-year-old palacete originally designed and
former role in housing the internationally-recognised public
inhabited by João Frederico Ludovice, architect to Portugal’s
body that has regulated the quality and distribution of one
King João V in the 18th century. This historic townhouse –
of Portugal’s most important biproducts since 1933. Guests
which was also home to offices inhabited by the Instituto
today can partake in sommelier-led wine tastings at the
do Vinho do Porto, the country’s government-run authority
hotel bar featuring a curated list of three, five, or seven
on the production of Port and Douro wines since 1945 –
Portuguese wines, all of which can be purchased in the
was carefully reinvented by renowned Portuguese architect
Instituto’s adjacent shop. With more than 300 grape varietals,
Miguel Câncio Martins, whose previous projects include the
Portugal’s oenological diversity is proudly championed by
Opium in London, Buddha Bar in Paris and Portugal’s Quinta
Federico, which stocks rare varieties such as Tinta Negra
da Comporta wellness resort. The result is an opulent yet
from Madeira and Alicante Bouschet from the Algarve.
approachable celebration of wine as a pillar of Portuguese culture and a tribute to its former, and current, residents.
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The importance of the beverage flows through to both the hotel’s own Caudalie Vinothérapie Boutique Spa and the all-
Given the rich history of the setting, Câncio Martins was
day restaurant and bar, Federico. “Wine is an intrinsic part of
adamant about preserving much of what Ludovice himself
the menu,” states Head Chef Ricardo Simões. “We’ve created
once hand-picked for his private residence when he arrived
many wine-inspired dishes, which are colourful takes on
to Lisbon in the early 1700s as the King’s commissioned
traditional Portuguese cuisine punctuated with French
architect. More than 300 original 18th-century blue and white
classics. For pairings that boost every flavour, our sommelier
ceramic tiles and fresco paintings were artfully restored, as
is available to educate and guide guests with recommended
well as a majestic staircase, bowed and sloped from centuries
wines from our expansive collection.”
of use. Vaulted ceilings and the original Hebraic inscriptions
Stand-out dishes include Chef Simões’ version of cod
were retained in Ludovice’s personal chapel, but material
with coriander and chickpeas, and chanfana, a Coimbran
artefacts were not the only things to be salvaged; the most
interpretation of a traditional Portuguese goat stew
significant element that carries through from the building’s
accompanied by truffled mashed potatoes and turnip
past is the hotel’s partnership and cohabitation with the
greens. The French influence is unmistakable in the soufflé
Instituto do Vinho do Porto.
with chèvre cheese and pumpkin, and the mouthwatering
SIPPING: SPECIAL FEATURE A PORTUGUESE PILGRIMAGE
© Nelson Garrido
© Nelson Garrido
© Bárbara Tomaz
© Nelson Garrido
097
SIPPING: SPECIAL FEATURE A PORTUGUESE PILGRIMAGE
© Antoine Duhamel
chocolate fondant with mint ice cream. Breakfast
the rooms’ elegant bespoke furniture and rich,
is a decadent buffet of national delicacies and
tweed upholstered seating is complemented
house-baked pastries.
by original handpainted tiles and intricately
Federico’s eye-catching bar sits within an
098
restored millwork.
ancient vault under an arched ceiling of restored
To round out the wine-centric experience, the
terracotta bricks in front of a sleek wine wall.
hotel partnered with the French-born skincare
Cosy and inviting, it flows into the very open,
brand Caudalie to bring Lisbon its first outpost
atrium-style dining room that Câncio Martins,
of the popular and luxurious boutique spa.
together with interior designer Jacques Chahine,
Inspired by the lush vineyards of Bordeaux,
has transformed from an open-air courtyard
the facility offers body treatments and facials
into a lush, vertical garden. The result is an
following signature vinotherapy processes
airy, epicurean centre that benefits from natural
and ingredients, such as a contouring crushed
light that changes throughout the day. The
cabernet scrub and a Vinosource-Hydra facial,
surrounding five-storey walls are anchored by
which includes a gentle massage using fresh
plush banquettes and marble-topped tables,
grapes and essential oils. The spa stands on
with bookshelves lining the central seating area.
its own, with street-front access next to the
The 61 rooms and suites at Palácio Ludovice,
hotel’s lobby, but for robe-wearing guests, a
each with its own individual decor, were
hidden connection provides a route back to
carefully designed to bring back elements of the
the cushy, palatial guestrooms. These grape-
18th century, seducing guests with grandeur and
infused treatments truly bring home the goal
refined finishes. Whether offering a bird’s eye
of ensuring this precious Portuguese product
view of the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara
infuses every part of the hotel guests’ minds,
or overlooking Federico’s botanical interiors,
bodies and palates.
BIN 389 AFFECTIONATELY KNOWN AS ‘BABY GRANGE’. MATURED IN THE BARRELS THAT HELD THE PREVIOUS VINTAGE OF GRANGE.
MEET EXTRAORDINARY
COCKTAIL
Hibiscus Guajillo Silverleaf Pan Pacific LONDON
At Silverleaf, Pan Pacific London’s atmospheric
The drink is made up of a combination of Bruxo
cocktail bar created by Tom Dixon’s Design
X Mezcal and Silverleaf Verdant Vermouth, a
Research Studio, the drinks are inspired by the
bespoke beverage featuring red-vein sorrel,
concept of naturalism. The menu is divided into
which the bar’s mixology team created in
elemental flavour profiles – each represented
collaboration with the French vermouth brand
by a unique symbol – with the drinks assigned
Baldoria. Ancho chilli-infused Tapatio 110 and
a geometric colour scheme that gives every
a dash of house-made hibiscus cacao cordial
ingredient its own hue. This visual twist on the
complete the process, while a chilli served on
ordering process draws attention to the various
the side allows the drinker to control the amount
facets of the cocktails, which champion just two
of heat. “The drinking experience is a sangrita
to three core ingredients.
inspired complex warming beverage,” explains Bar Manager Liam Broom. “There’s a crisp acidity
mix of spicy berry reds, rich browns and playful
from the red sorrel in the Silverleaf Verdant,
pinks. It is an entirely appropriate composition
a lingering warmth from the chillies, a bright
for a punchy, mezcal-forward cocktail that
fruitiness from the hibiscus and an underlying
comes with a splashy kick of acidic vermouth.
earthiness from the cacao nibs.”
© Lateef Okunnu
Hibiscus Guajillo’s colour profile is a heady
COCKTAIL
Mary Pickford Polo Lounge The Beverly Hills Hotel LOS ANGELES
When The Beverly Hills Hotel first opened its
This year the hotel celebrates its 110 th
doors in 1912, the Californian enclave was far
anniversary, and a series of special libations
from the ritzy city it would eventually become.
served in its epochal Polo Lounge pay tribute
But as Hollywood’s rich and talented began to
to the figures that shaped its history. Mary
drift into the community, a glittering metropolis
Pickford, of course, features among them; her
grew up around the property.
namesake concoction is a classic prohibition-
Leading the way was Canadian-American
era cocktail that blends equal parts of Bacardi
actress and producer, Mary Pickford. In 1919,
Superior Rum and fresh pineapple juice with
she and her husband Douglas Fairbanks moved
dashes of grenadine and Luxardo maraschino
to Beverly Hills after purchasing a hunting lodge
liqueur. The ingredients are shaken and strained,
that became known as ‘Pickfair’. It kickstarted
poured into a coupe glass and garnished with
a trend that would see stars such as Charlie
flared orange peel. “I love the rum,” says the
Chaplin and Gloria Swanson set up home in the
hotel’s Director of F&B, Kaitlyn Demasi. “It’s
area, transforming the bean fields surrounding
an underrated spirit today, but back in the
The Beverly Hills Hotel into prime real estate.
prohibition era it was very popular.”
Sounds like a celebration
zwiesel-glas.com
DRINKS
The Horse’s Spirit Company Horse With No Name
Penfolds Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 2019
The Horse’s Spirit Company was conceived to blend the centuries-old distilling expertise of its home region into the traditional production of American whiskey. The bourbon, made with yellow dent Texas corn, soft red winter wheat, six-row distiller’s malt and a proprietary yeast strain that was captured from a Texas pecan, is spiced with a Red Savina habanero distillate produced in the Black Forest using traditional and artisanal methods of flavour extraction. In order to capture the pepper’s exotic essence, the habaneros are thoroughly milled and then macerated in molasses-based neutral alcohol for ten days. The result is carefully distilled in a 100-litre still, diluted with natural spring water from the Black Forest, and finally left to mellow in earthenware tanks for several months. Horse With No Name combines the fragrant oak aroma of the bourbon, with its floral accompaniments of vanilla and coconut, and the fruity sweetness of habanero heat. www.horsewithnoname.com
First made in 1960 by the legendary Max Schubert, Bin 389 helped forge Penfolds’ reputation with red wine drinkers by combining the structure of cabernet sauvignon with the richness of shiraz. Exemplifying the judicious balance of fruit and oak, Bin 389 highlights the generous mid-palate Penfolds in known for. Since the mid-1990s, Bin 389 has drawn fruit from around South Australia, including Barossa Valley, Coonawarra, Padthaway, McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek, Wrattonbully, Clare Valley and Robe. Exacting specifications of ripeness, classic Penfolds winemaking methods and strict post-maturation classification have ensured the style has remained consistent. Vineyard management practices and a rigorous grading system have also contributed to higher quality fruit. The overall winemaking practices have not changed: the classical heading down in open fermenters, partial barrel fermentation and maturation in new and seasoned American oak remain key techniques. www.penfolds.com
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DRINKS
Cucielo Dry Vermouth di Torino Cucielo has expanded its collection with the launch of a Dry Vermouth di Torino that has been crafted to capture the essence of golden hour and Italian aperitivo culture. Cucielo Dry (18% ABV, 50cl) aims to perfect the martini, with crisp notes of fresh Sicilian citrus complemented by a light herbal bitterness throughout. With its unique ‘ricetta originale’, Cucielo Dry’s all natural botanical formula includes pontica and gentle artemisia, Aloe Ferox, bitter and sweet orange peel from Calabria, elderflower, dried Sicilian lemon peel and cardamom amongst a number of other natural, secret ingredients. This versatile, natural vermouth also has enough character to work simply mixed with premium tonic or on its own, served chilled over ice, with a garnish of orange wedge. Distribution will be focused on existing and new premium on-trade accounts as well as specialist off-trade and e-commerce. Dry is the third expression from the brand which was founded by Artisan Spirits CEO Andy Holmes, with the aim of bringing vermouth to a new generation of drinkers. It follows the launch of Rosso and Bianco which both arrived in 2018, and in 2021 were awarded double gold at the prestigious San Francisco World Spirits Competition. www.cucielo.com
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2
Y NT
W
RA AR
ARS
DRINKS
Jameson 18 Years Jameson has unveiled a higher ABV liquid and sustainable packaging revamp for its iconic Jameson 18 Years. The celebrated whiskey will now be presented in new, lightweight packaging with the original box redesigned as fully recyclable cardboard complete with foil accents. The redesign aligns with Irish Distillers’ and Pernod Ricard’s broader sustainability commitments by focusing on minimising waste at every step and applying a circular mindset across the business. Alongside the packaging update, Master Distiller Kevin O’Gorman and his team have introduced a significant change to the 18 Years liquid. “To truly allow the complexity of this whiskey to shine, we have increased the ABV from 40% to 46% and removed the need for chill filtration,” says O’Gorman. “This modification helps to concentrate the signature flavours found in Jameson 18 Years balancing Jameson’s characteristic smoothness with the depth of the whiskey in its natural state.” www.jamesonwhiskey.com
Martin Miller’s Gin StART Art Fair x Martin Miller’s Gin Martin Miller’s Gin was believed to be the first super premium gin on the market when it launched back in 1999, triggering today’s gin renaissance. Martin Miller and friends challenged the convention of traditional gin production by separately distilling the finest botanicals in England and blending the result with the world’s purest water from Iceland, thus conferring a dual heritage on the brand. Today, Martin Miller’s Gin is billed as the world’s most awarded gin brand since 2004. Its inspirational story of transformation ‘from madness to genius’ means it has always held a close affinity with the artistic process and emerging art talent. The brand recently announced a new partnership with StART Art Fair, which will take place at London’s Saatchi Gallery this October. As Official Sponsor, Martin Miller’s Gin will have its own branded lounge on site, serving a selection of surreal serves created by Global Brand Bartender Danil Nevsky and inspired by the origins of this first super premium gin. The show will also see the launch of the StART Martin Miller’s Gin Emerging Art Prize 2022 in celebration of the brand’s commitment to supporting young and emerging art talent with the support of StART’s expertise. www.martinmillersgin.com
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SPECIFIER
PETITS FOURS
Craster Link The new Link table from Craster is a beguilingly sleek and mutable events table. Created with full F&B services, seated presentations and hospitality lingering points in mind, the range is designed to complement Craster’s Line system, enabling the construction of a seamless aesthetic across and between spaces. Link features a slender, rounded leg profile with a central folding mechanism for simple storage, and an intuitive set-up that provides three different height options. The system is available in a range of sizes and comes with hygiene-conscious HPL or toughened glass tops, making this flexible, wipe-clean solution a stylish and practical choice for events spaces. www.craster.com
PETITS FOURS
Steelite International Spanish Steps
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Hospitality behemoth Steelite International has added another string to its bow with the launch of a new showroom in Madrid. The worldleading manufacturer and supplier of awardwinning tabletop, buffet and ambient lighting solutions already operates several showrooms globally, but is bolstering its European presence with its new real estate in the Spanish capital. Located in Barrio de Salamanca, the 480m2 venue provides hoteliers and restaurateurs the space to hone tabletop and buffet concepts that meet their design visions. It also acts as an experience centre, with ample room for hospitality clients to demonstrate, explore and assess different tabletop layouts before specifying solutions. “Pre-Covid, Spain was one of the world’s fastest-growing hotel markets,” says Kimberly Matienzo, Vice President of Global Marketing at Steelite International. “Today it is rebounding quickly, with the country’s projects set to reach 88% of pre-pandemic tourism levels in 2022. With Spain being the world’s second most-visited country globally, we knew it was
the ideal location to invest in a world-class showroom and experience centre to serve operators and end-users of hotels, restaurants, and other hospitality sectors.” The space houses the full portfolio of Steelite International’s products available to the EU market, including luxury hospitality brands such as William Edwards, Robert Gordon, Rene Ozorio, Robert Welch and more. “Everything we do in the new showroom will add value to operators,” continues Matienzo. “Our goal is to help them achieve their vision, whether specifying for a new venue or a refresh.” The move represents the latest big step forward for Steelite International, a British heritage brand that was first established in 1983 in Staffordshire, UK. Today, it provides more than 140 countries with innovative solutions in china, metal, glass, wood, melamine and buffet, and runs offices in both the UK and the US. It also boasts 12 showrooms across the US, as well as additional sites in the UK, Germany, Hong Kong, Canada and Australia. www.steelite.com
PETITS FOURS
Mogogo Modular – Pro Bar Mogogo’s flagship collection, the Modular System, allows users to employ the same components in a combination of ways in order to create different product configurations. The Modular Banquet Stations line is composed of the brand’s Classic and Creative range, alongside a large variety of complementary accessories. As with all of Mogogo’s banquet stations, the Pro Bar station has been meticulously designed to strike the right tone between high functionality, durability and mobility. It features a stainless steel working surface, an ice bin and a speed rail, and represents a natural symbiosis between high design standards and practical F&B requirements. Mogogo’s design voice is anchored in the simple and optimistic aim of making a positive impact, and creating beautiful F&B furniture capable of blending seamlessly with any interior design vision. www.mogogo-buffet.com
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YOUR INVITATION CODE on equiphotel.com
Code : EPISUPPER
SOURCING. NETWORKING. INSPIRATION. EMOTION. FOODSERVICE
DESIGN WELL-BEING TECHNOLOGY & SERVICES
cdf220300158_ap_236x275_eh22_food.indd 1
17/06/2022 15:38
PETITS FOURS
Franke Coffee Systems Franke Digital Coffee Machine Explorer With its virtual showroom platform, the Digital Coffee Machine Explorer, Franke provides businesses of all sizes and various customer segments with the means to identify comprehensive solutions. At the same time, it differentiates itself from standard digital platforms by adopting a personal approach that emphasises human interconnection and rapport. The engaging platform encompasses the brand’s product portfolio, spanning models such as the A300, the A1000, the Specialty Beverage Station, the S700 and more. Visitors can explore Franke’s full range of professional fully automatic coffee machines, as well as Franke Coffee Technologies and a broad selection of modular add-on units. Audio and video content tells the individual story of each machine, in addition to documenting customer testimonials, attesting to the both the reliability of real-world performance and the importance of premium coffee indulgence. www.coffee.franke.com
Modbar Pour-Over Modbar, the one-of-a-kind under-counter coffee brewing system, produces a stylish and space-saving coffee equipment range that includes the Modbar Pour-Over. The design-forward, user-friendly brewing device allows baristas to brew hands-free when preparing filter coffee. Making coffee more efficiently and consistently, the Pour-Over enables drinks professionals to spend more time doing what they do best; interacting with customers. It permits full control of the temperature of the water, the speed at which it goes into the coffee grounds, the way the water flows, and the quantitiy of coffee made. Users can adjust the flow rate to suit a specific brewing method and extraction preference, and have the option of selecting one of 25 pre-programmed recipes or manually brewing with the flexible brewing wand. The Pour-Over comes with two different dispensing water tips offering both a single hole and a spray nozzle, and the chrome over-the-counter tap lab-mount design leaves a minimalist footprint. The model can also be easily customised to fit a variety of spaces and interiors. www.modbar.com
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EXHIBITORS
.
BRANDS
.
VISITORS
MESSEGELÄNDE BERLIN l INTERNATIONAL BAR AND BEVERAGE TRADE SHOW
500 1400 16 000
10 – 12 OCTOBER 22
SAVE THE DATE GET YOUR TICKET NOW! BARCONVENT.COM/TICKET
HEAD OF THE TABLE Supper's annual tableware guide equips decision-makers with key information from marketleading suppliers, assisting in the specification process for new hospitality projects worldwide.
Amefa Amefa has been setting tables all over the world ever since it was founded back in 1931, and the brand’s heritage is rooted in the hospitality industry. The family-owned business prides itself on its young and dynamic team, as well as its mission to be a valued, reliable partner that provides all the benefits of a global company as well as the speed, flexibility and personal touch of a local outfit. Through leading brands such as Amefa, Couzon, Medard de Noblat and Richardson Sheffield, the company is able to offer clients a wide range of flatware and kitchen products, spanning designs that suit every style and occasion. The Amefa Group currently has seven subsidiaries globally, spread throughout the US, the Netherlands, Germany, France, the UK, Poland and Hong Kong. Through these international touchpoints, it is able to export to different countries worldwide, meeting the needs of both the hospitality and retail sector.
IN A BITE Products: Flatware and cutlery, steak knives, kitchen knives Clients: Hilton Worldwide, Marriott International Trade Shows: Ambiente, Host Milano, NRA Contact: Benoit Desoutter Group Food Service Director benoit.desoutter@amefa.com www.amefa.com
Arc The Arc Group creates everyday innovative and sustainable glass solutions for a range of eating and drinking experiences. Through its various brands, which include Arcoroc and Chef & Sommelier, the group is present across the mass distribution, horeca, wine merchant and collective catering markets. Committed to corporate social responsibility, Arc Group invested €5.7 million in Research & Development in 2021 and reduced its CO2 emissions by 24.4% per ton of glass produced from 2010 to 2021. The group is also actively contributing to the transition to a new circular economy model by offering cutting edge and sustainable glass containers as alternatives to singleuse plastic. With production sites in France, the US, China and the UAE, the group produces more than 4.1 million items every day. Arc employs 7,800 people and generated sales of €740 million in 2021, fulfilling its mission to provide innovative glass for a better world.
IN A BITE Collections: Cabernet, Islande, Granity Projects: Cameron House, Loch Lomond; Zoku, Copenhagen; Apex Temple Court Hotel, London Trade Shows: Host Milano, Internorga, Sirha Contact: Chris Ward EMEA Hotel Business Director chris.ward@arc-intl.com www.arcoroc.com www.chefsommelier.com
Asianera Asianera is a fine bone china design house and manufacturer located in northern China. Internationally known for its distinctive East-meets-West design ethos, the brand's constantly evolving porcelain designs offer unique interpretations of influences from Asian culture and nature. Asianera specialises in fine hand-painting, which lends each of its pieces a distinctive artistry and elegance. Founded in 1995 with the belief that distinctive, high-quality china could be designed and produced in China – which originally invented and defined porcelain beauty centuries ago – Asianera focuses on developing and honing an individual aesthetic and product line that reflects an Asian vernacular within a contemporary context. 27 years later, its reputation has taken the brand far and wide, and its designs, as a result, are similarly influenced by a variety of cultures, without straying too far from its distinctive style of artistry.
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IN A BITE Products: Tableware, living accessories, giftware Projects: Raffles, Singapore; Four Seasons Cotai Strip, Macau; Mandarin Oriental, Riyadh Trade Shows: Ambiente, To The Table, Hotelex Contact: Grace Liu Managing Director graceliu@asianera.biz www.asianera.biz
HEAD OF THE TABLE
BHS As a manufacturer and supplier of professional, functional, inspiring tableware, BHS Tabletop always puts the culinary experience at the forefront. The heritage company originally began trading as the porcelain manufacturer C.M. Hutschenreuther back in 1814, becoming BHS Tabletop in 1998. Since then, it has been expanding on its leading position by means of smart, cautious management, strategic alliances and quick responses to market changes. It fully understands the requirements of a wide variety of target groups and offers tableware solutions tailored precisely to their needs. Its digital services have been designed to save time for its clients and simplify processes such as reordering. Timelessly functional, trend-conscious and featuring an unusual mix of materials, the BHS brands Bauscher, Schönwald and Playground produce stylish concepts and collections, each of which is designed for a wide variety of industries.
IN A BITE Collections: Purity, Bauscher, Vibes, Schönwald Projects: A-Rosa, Sena; Marriott Marquis, San Francisco; Choice Hotels, Norway Trade Shows: Internorga, NRA Contact: Regional Managers marketing@bhs-tabletop.de www.BHS-tabletop.com
Bonna Bonna was founded in 2014 as the first horeca brand from the Turkish heritage company Kar Porselen. Its focus is on offering a diverse range of creative solutions for businesses across the hospitality sector, and today the brand exports its products to more then 90 countries across six continents – principally to Europe, Russia and Latin America. Thanks to its extensive technical infrastructure, Bonna is able to provide personalised solutions for varying specifications, partnerships and projects, all while continuing to strive to inspire the tastes and trends of tomorrow. It has developed pioneering collections made up of avant-garde pieces, and works to produce the best designs for the expert presentations. Bonna is dedicated to integrating new generation technological systems into its facilities and production processes, and the brand continues to increase its investments in this area.
IN A BITE Collections: Prints, Gloire, East Projects: Conrad Maldives; JW Marriott Bengaluru Prestige Golfshire Resort & Spa, Bengaluru; Hilton Dead Sea Resort & Spa, Jordan Valley Trade Shows: Ambiente, Host Milano, Hostech by Tusid Contact: Yasemin Yılmaz Export Sales Manager yasemin.yilmaz@bonna.com.tr www.bonna.com.tr/en/
Bugatti Bugatti designs and manufactures contemporary cutlery collections, table and kitchenware, thermal bottles and small but highly innovative kitchen appliances with a smart soul. In creating objects that boast originality and a sophisticated sense of style but still deliver on essential functionalities, the company combines aesthetic research and technology with a distinguished Italian touch that sets it apart, expressing a forward-facing philosophy that naturally embodies authentic traditions. Founded in Lumezzane in the province of Brescia, Lombardy, in 1923 by the Bugatti family and fuelled by the courageous ideal of innovation, the heritage brand elevates the simplest and most fundamental rituals of everyday life through its charming product lines. Today Bugatti is present in more than 100 countries worldwide, and its products are stocked in renowned department stores globally.
IN A BITE Collections: Ares, Riviera, Vidal Projects: Grand Hyatt, Kuwait; Morpheus Hotel, Macau Trade Shows: Ambiente, Homi, Maison & Objet Contact: Primo Prandelli Export Manager primo.prandelli@casabugatti.it www.casabugatti.it
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Corby Hall Corby Hall, a family-owned business based in Randolph, New Jersey, in the US, has supplied the international hospitality industry with high-quality flatware, holloware and bright-white porcelain dinnerware for the past 40 years. The brand offers designs ranging from the traditional to the contemporary at extremely competitive price points, and has the ability to supply any F&B outlet associated with a full service foodservice operation. One of the very first companies to introduce 18/10 stainless steel flatware and holloware to the US foodservice market, its proprietary patterns run the gamut from the modern to the traditional, with available finishes including mirrored or satin polishes, in addition to silver plate. Corby Hall's global distribution network, coupled with its production facilities in Europe and Asia, allows for seamless service when it comes to opening orders as well as re-supply.
IN A BITE Products: Flatware, dinnerware, holloware Projects: Hyatt Grande Reserve, Río Grande; Atlantis The Royal, Dubai; The Breakers Palm Beach, Palm Beach Trade Shows: To the Table, NRA Contact: Mark Riley National Sales Manager mark@corbyhall.com www.corbyhall.com
Costa Nova An enduring love of life, family, friends and good food forms the basis of the driving force behind the Portuguese brand Costa Nova, which creates fine stoneware collections that combine quality and design with the utmost in ceramic craftsmanship. The company produces innovative and sustainable stoneware pieces, each made from natural resources in Portugal, and its collections in Ecogres – a new raw material made of 100% recycled stoneware – epitomise the brand’s sustainable and forward-looking ethos. Costa Nova is produced by Grestel, a world-leading stoneware manufacturer that lays claim to more than 20 years of experience of working for the hospitality industry. Benefiting from that vast knowledge, as well as an extensive portfolio of products, Costa Nova is able to offer exceptional customer service to its professional clients who are based all over the world.
IN A BITE Products: Tableware, flatware, glassware Projects: Four Seasons Hotel Ritz, Lisbon; Pestana CR7, Madrid; Six Senses, Douro Valley Trade Shows: Ambiente, Host Milano, Maison & Objet Contact: Pablo Ferreira Hospitality Sales Manager pabloferreira@grestel.pt www.costanovaprofessional.com
Costa Verde Founded in 1992 as one of the more contemporary companies in the sector, Costa Verde's strong ties with Portuguese porcelain distributors quickly turned the brand into a success story. Today, the company is not only rooted firmly in the Portuguese market, but – following more than 30 years of steady growth – also benefits from myriad partnerships that have emerged from marketplaces around the world. The company's constant research, creation and drive for the development of new products means that Costa Verde enjoys a presence across more than 50 locations globally, to the extent that 70% of its revenue now comes from the international market. When it comes to manufacturing, though, the brand remains true to its roots: its production unit is located in the district of Aveiro, in Portugal, with a covered area of 35,000m2 and an available area of more than 65,000m2.
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IN A BITE Products: Porcelain, stoneware Clients: Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino, Las Vegas Trade Shows: Ambiente, Host Milano, NRA Contact: Paulo Pinto Santos Marketing Director ppsantos@costa-verde.com www.costa-verde.com
HEAD OF THE TABLE
Fine2Dine Fine2Dine, a brand of Fine Dining & Living based in Geel, Belgium, was established in 2016 to focus on the hospitality industry, and today its products are available in more than 40 countries worldwide. Fine2Dine stands for trend-based highquality and robust tableware in its purest form for the creative professional. Using on-trend colours and durable materials, the company responds to the latest innovations in the market, offering hotels and restaurants all over the world the opportunity to be creative and easily mix and match their solutions. The idea is also to inspire chefs: Fine2Dine wants to catch their attention and inspire thoughts on dish presentation since, without their creativity, ingredients are nothing more than unexplored ideas. Fine Dining & Living plays its part in this mission by bringing together fine, contemporary and well-thought out tableware, home and decoration brands.
IN A BITE Collections: Brush, Revive Projects: Marriott Warsaw; Grand Hotel du Cap-Ferrat, a Four Seasons Hotel, Nice Trade Shows: Ambiente, Equiphotel, Maison&Objet Contact: Julie Mincke Sales Manager Hospitality julie.mincke@finedl.eu www.fine2dine.com
Front of the House Established in 2002, FOH is a global award-winning foodservice and hospitality brand, encompassing Front of the House and room360˚ by FOH. Based in Miami with worldwide shipping options, the brand counts years of experience in research, design and development, and large amounts of technology investments, all of which have positioned it as a leader in the industry. Each piece created by Front of the House is carefully thought out, from the materials to the processes and techniques used, allowing the brand to remain true to its dedication to aesthetics without sacrificing function and durability for commercial grade use. Each season, FOH introduces hundreds of new products, surpassing market and industry trends, to provide chic, multi-functional and well-priced collections that express its values. FOH manages its business like a family, and sees building lasting, service-driven relationships with its customers as the secret to its success.
IN A BITE Projects: Hilton West Palm Beach, Palm Beach; Hard Rock Hotels; Moxy Hotels Trade Shows: Independent Hotel Show, NRA, To the Table Contact: Alex Guillaume Sales Manager EMEA and APAC alexg@foh.cc www.frontofthehouse.com
Goodfellow & Goodfellow Founded and still run to this day by husband-and-wife team Paul and Valda Goodfellow, this creative design and distribution company provides design-focused solutions for hotels, restaurants and contract caterers. The hospitality-led distributors give those working in the industry access to a variety of ideas and guidance via its website, while its London showroom displays ranges from the world's finest ceramics and glassware brands, including Hering Berlin and Narumi. Catering to a variety of cuisines and beverages, Goodfellows often collaborates with Michelin-starred chefs, leading restaurateurs, hoteliers and designers to supply branded tableware, kitchen equipment and chef apparel to establishments around the UK, Europe and the Middle East. Working in a consultative manner, the company delivers everything from individual pieces to complete hotel F&B concepts, while also working with craft producers to design its own bespoke tableware ranges.
IN A BITE Collections: Studio Mattes, Narumi, Costa Nova Projects: The Carlton Tower Jumeriah, London; Pan Pacific, London Contact: Valda Goodfellow Managing Director valda.goodfellow@goodf.co.uk www.goodf.co.uk
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John Jenkins John Jenkins is one of the UK's leading designers and suppliers of crystal and glass for the high-end hospitality industry. Founded in 1901, its aim is to design and supply stylish glassware, which is practical in service and complements both wine and table. The company keeps in stock a large range of both handmade and machine-made glassware, including wine glasses, cocktail glasses and tumblers, which are available for immediate delivery. Its in-house design department also creates exclusive patterns of handmade glassware to the specific requirement of many of their hospitality clients, which includes luxury hotels, fine-dining restaurants and world-class bars. The brand also has showrooms in New York and the US market is served by its distribution centre in New Jersey. Each pattern within its glassware portfolio benefits from the latest advances in glass making technology, which have enhanced the clarity, durability and scratch-resistance of the glass.
IN A BITE Collections: Starr, Gala, Atlantic Projects: The Ritz, London; The Connaught, London; The Savoy, London Trade Shows: Ambiente, Maison & Objet Contact: office@johnjenkins.co.uk www.johnjenkins.co.uk
LSA International Janusz Lubkowski co-founded LSA International back in the 1960s, and through shared experience and inherited values, Monika Lubkowska-Jonas continues to develop her father’s vision to this day. For more than 50 years, the Londonbased design studio has specialised in creating stylish and contemporary collections of glassware across the bar, table and decoration sectors, with new collections unveiled each season. All of LSA International’s products are made using skilled craft techniques and carefully selected materials to ensure an unrivalled, high-quality finish. LSA International is conscious of its responsibility to reduce its impact on the environment, working ethically and transparently to explore sustainable practices: one example is the studio's use of discarded waste material, which is repurposed in its recycled glass collections, transforming bottles and jars into useful products.
IN A BITE Collections: Mia, Gio, Dine Projects: Heckfield Place, Hampshire; Claridges, London; The Berkeley, London Contact: Jo Sanders UK Sales Director jo.sanders@lsa-international.com www.lsa-international.com
Monno Design Monno was established in Dhaka, Bangladesh, in 1984 by the industrialist and philanthropist Harunar Rashid Khan Monno. The company designs and manufactures premium bone china and porcelain tableware suited to both the retail and horeca sectors, and companies work with Monno to develop their own tableware designs, or customise a collection from the brand’s private label portfolio. Though the headquarters remain in Dhaka, Monno also counts a design studio in London, which serves as a hub for its internal design projects. It is here that its high-end tableware collections are carefully designed and thoroughly prototyped. Monno also devises and implements collaborations with other reputable designers and iconic brands. Its factories are vertically integrated, meaning the brand controls every aspect of the process, from clay production through to tableware manufacture and custom gift box fabrication.
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IN A BITE Collections: Modular, Ripple, Aperture Trade Shows: Ambiente, The Inspired Home Show Contact: Billy Lloyd Creative Director billy@monnouk.com www.monno.com
HEAD OF THE TABLE
MyGlass Studio MyGlassStudio designs bespoke dinnerware, table accessories, serveware and room amenity presentations for the food service industry. With three libraries of 1,800 shapes, 170 colours and 200 patterns, the brand is able to meet its customers' needs precisely, providing personal and exclusive solutions for each concept. Its designs incorporate materials such as metal, brass, leather, wood, stone and marble. As a boutique factory, it continually innovates to help the luxury hospitality market achieve its primary goal of delivering memorable experiences for guests. In the past 17 years the brand has implemented numerous hotel opening projects, gaining procurement contracts with major hotel chains. MyGlassStudio’s newest collection is Magnetic Dome – a dome plate cover magnetically connected to an elegant leather handle with a neodymium magnet. The collection comes in a variety of colours, but can also be tweaked to suit different interiors.
IN A BITE Products: Bespoke dinnerware, tableware and serveware Projects: Fairmont Ambassador, Seoul; Heimat by Peter Find, Hong Kong; Four Seasons Hotel and Private Residences, New Orleans Trade Shows: Ambiente, FHA, Maison & Objet Contact: Margarita Paschali Sales & Marketing margarita@myglassstudio.com www.myglassstudio.com
Nude Glass The conviction that simplicity is pure and essential forms Nude Glass' guiding principle. With a belief that less is more and that form is best when it meets function, the glassware brand refines everything to its essence, making the final object both simple to understand and easy to use: a concept that is embodied by its crystalline glass. Nude's portfolio of glassware is designed by leading international talents, and the brand regularly develops dynamic collaborations with a wide roster of artists and designers. The company prides itself on being brave, non-conformist and individual, with its products delivering an unparalleled level of quality and imagination. Established in 1935 by Ataturk, the Şişecam Group has become a world leader in glass manufacture and design. Nude came about in 2014, as Şişecam's first contemporary design brand, and benefits from more than 85 years of tradition, wisdom and expertise to embody its philosophy.
IN A BITE Products: Glassware Trade Shows: Ambiente, Design Shanghai, Host Milano Contact: Mert Zengin Foreign Sales Manager mzengin@sisecam.com www.international.nudeglass.com
Orrefors Orrefors has been producing timeless and elegant glassware since 1898, and the company has contributed significatly to making Swedish design world famous. Orrefors is known globally for its timeless aesthetic and high-level functionality, sustainability and durability. Designers, glassblowers and painters play their part in this skilled work every day, and each glass from Orrefors represents an individual, sophisticated piece of craftsmanship. Since the 1980s, renowned designers such as Erika Lagerbielke, Martti Rytkönen, Lena Bergström and Ingegerd Råman have helped to propel Orrefors' design heritage into the future. The company’s goal is to continue to create enduring and graceful drinkware to suit every occasion and destination – be it an upscale hotel bar or atmospheric restaurant – championing the same level of excellence it has demonstrated for almost the last 125 years.
IN A BITE Collections: Intermezzo, Street, More Projects: Four Seasons Hotel, New York; The Drayton Hotel, Savannah; The Millbrook Inn, New York Trade Shows: Atlanta Market, PPAI Expo, The New York Tabletop Show Contact: Emon Maasho CEO, North America emon@orrefors.us www.orrefors.us
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Pordamsa Pordamsa is a trend-setting Spanish porcelain and glass manufacturer known for distinctive and artistic designs that adapt to an ever-changing global marketplace. Originally founded in 1975, Pordamsa specialises in creating exceptional tableware pieces, and its traditional manufacturing process ensures that no two objects are the same. At Pordamsa, the team is fascinated by the possibility of being able to bring an idea to life with their own hands, and the origin of each piece is born from nature, organic shapes and the imaginations of the designers. The results are extraordinary, timeless pieces that conform to the needs of each gastronomic proposal. Currently, Pordamsa designs accompany the culinary creations of some of the world's most renowned chefs and offer beautiful, creative solutions to the most demanding hotel design projects, both aesthetically and functionally.
IN A BITE Products: Porcelain tableware, glassware, cutlery Projects: Nobu, Los Cabos; Jun Siyam, Maldives; Steigenberger Parkhotel, Dusseldorf Trade Shows: Ambiente, Host Milano, Sirha Contact: Gerard Crous Sales Manager gcrous@pordamsa.org www.pordamsa.com
Porland Porland was established in 1976 as a Turkish brand with 100% domestic capital. As one of the country's leading porcelain brands, the company prides itself on its exacting attention to fine details and its superior technology, from design to production processes. Porland not only offers porcelain products but also all kinds of household collections across the realms of tableware, kitchenware, home decoration, textile and bathroom; its wide range serves professional and consumer user bases. The company collaborates with more than 200 domestic and international suppliers by importing beside porcelain from more than 20 different countries. Its contemporary perspective, focus on technology, diversity and strong structure has put the company on course to become a worldwide brand with a work force of more than 1,600. Its innovative point of view, striking designs and producing power make it a stand-out name in the tableware sector.
IN A BITE Products: Porcelain tableware Projects: Fairmont Nile City Hotel, Cairo; Iberostar, The Caribbean; Hilton Tel Aviv Trade Shows: Ambiente, Host Milano, NRA Contact: Elif Keskin Gürbüz Regional Sales Manager ekeskin@porland.com.tr www.porland.com
Rona Rona, a glassworks that employs more than 1,200 people in the Slovak Republic in the heart of the EU, was first established more than 100 years ago in 1892, in a region historically renowned for glass production. The brand introduced various technological improvements that proved significant for the development of the glass industry as a whole, and became the first glassworks to launch the production of pressed glass back in 1893. In 1956, it became the first factory in the world to implement and refine the commercial production of handmade stemware using the pulled stem process, and also introduced the commercial production of machine made 'blow-blow' technology pulled stemware in 2001. This most progressive one-piece glass technology, together with the introduction of the laser treatment of the glass rims, gave Rona the expertise to bring the production of the glassware to a completely new level.
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IN A BITE Collections: Rona 2serve, Five Star Rona Projects: InterContinental Hotels, USA; JW Marriott QuFu, China; Hard Rock Hotel, Madrid Trade Shows: Ambiente, Host Milano, NRA Contact: Lubor Maly General Sales Manager maly@rona.sk www.rona.glass
HEAD OF THE TABLE
Serax Belgian brand Serax creates contemporary homeware, based on collaborations with renowned national and international designers and craftworkers. Founded in 1986 by brothers Axel and Serge Van Den Bossche, the brand's collections enhance hospitality spaces, providing a welcoming ambience for guests, adding character to interiors and helping to create memorable dining table moments. Ever since its first tableware launch in 2009, in collaboration with the artist and ceramist Roos Van De Velde, Serax has established itself as a trendsetter for Michelin-starred chefs like Albert Adrià, the Roca brothers, Alain Ducasse and Jean-Georges Vongerichten, lifting the total dining experience to a higher level. Manufactured by skilled workers in different regions of the world, each Serax collection is unique in its design and materiality, without losing sight of the brand's core philosophies: accessibility, quality and functionality.
IN A BITE Products: Tableware, furniture, lighting Projects: Six Senses, Ibiza; W Melbourne; Raffles and Fairmont, Doha Trade Shows: Host Milano, Internorga, Sihra Contact: Sophie Baldewyns International Key Account Manager, Hospitality sophie.b@serax.com www.serax.com
Steelite Steelite International is a leading designer, marketer, manufacturer and supplier of award-winning tableware, lighting, and buffet solutions for the global hospitality industry. Steelite's core brands include Steelite Distinction & Performance, William Edwards, D.W. Haber, Hollowick, Creations, Folio, Varick, Homer Laughlin, Hall China and Aspen Drinkware. Additionally, Steelite distributes prominent brands such as Mogogo, Five Star Rona, Bormioli Rocco, Rene Ozorio, Robert Welch, Royal Porcelain, Robert Gordon Pottery, WNK, Anfora, Delfin and Strahl. Dual headquarters in New Castle, Pennsylvania, and Stoke-onTrent, UK, as well as a 46,500m2 manufacturing facility and 12 showrooms worldwide enable Steelite to seamlessly service more than 140 countries, as it has been doing for more than 50 years. Steelite is committed to providing the best in functionality and design and the company remains dedicated to minimising the effect on the environment.
IN A BITE Collections: D.W. Haber, Robert Gordon Forager, Steelite Craft Projects: The Westin, London; W Hotel, Toronto; Porter House MGallery, Sydney Trade Shows: Ambiente, Host Milano, NRA www.steelite.com
Stölzle Lausitz Stölzle Lausitz produces high-class drinking glasses and belongs to one of the leading producers of premium, lead-free crystal glass. Founded in 1889, the company was taken over in 1996 by Stölzle Oberglas, a company that has also been associated with glass production for more than 200 years. In 2005, the company broke away and became independent under the name Stölzle Lausitz. The business is based in Weißwasser in Germany, a glassmaking town steeped in tradition that formed Europe's glassmaking centre in the 19th and 20th centuries. Today, Stölzle Lausitz exports around 40 million glasses every year, with 400 employees producing, decorating and packing a variety of stem glasses, tumblers, decanters carafes and gift items. The manufacturer is also one of only a handful to have mastered the production of machine-pulled and melted stems, resulting in more durable pieces that mimic the features and elegance of mouthblown glasses.
IN A BITE Collections: Starlight, Quatrophil, Power Projects: Hilton Abu Dhabi Yas Island; Bandra Kurla Complex, Mumbai; Pan Pacific, London Trade Shows: Ambiente, Hotelex, IHA Contact: Jan Zschiesche Head of Export jzscgiesche@stoelzle-lausitz.de www.stoelzle-lausitz.com
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HEAD OF THE TABLE
Tablo Tablo is a Hong Kong-based company with solid Italian roots. Founded in 2017, its portfolio comprises nine Italian heritage brands, while its eight-person team has amassed a wealth of F&B industry expertise. Tablo aims to provide ad hoc solutions for every kind of dining concept, offering a 360-degree service to its clients, starting with quotations and interior consultations for table settings, kitchens and barware. The brand has a large network of distributors and importers across the APAC region, and has worked with hotel brands including Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts, Rosewood, Hyatt, The Ritz-Carlton and more. Tablo is the preferred supplier of fine-dining restaurants across Asia, and has collaborated with the Otto e Mezzo Bombana chain across the region, as well as with Opera Bombana Beijing, Estro by Jia Group in Hong Kong, Grissini at Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, and many more. Tablo is the home of Italian lifestyle solutions in Asia.
IN A BITE Products: Tableware, drinkware, homeware Projects: Andaz Shenzhen Bay, Shenzhen; Rosewood Hong Kong Trade Shows: Host Milano, Hotelex Shangai, Hofex Hong Kong Contact: Alessandra Zappaterra info@tablo.hk www.tablo.hk
William Edwards A passion for shape, design and traditional British craftsmanship drive every piece of William Edwards chinaware. Established in 1993 by William Edwards, a graduate of the Royal College of Art London, William Edwards Professional specialises in the design and manufacture of fine bone china for both luxury hospitality and retail clients worldwide. Its mission has always been to champion the craftsmanship and traditional skills found in Stoke-on-Trent, the heartland of England’s ceramics industry since the late 1700s. Since 1995, William Edwards Professional has been based at the historic Anderton Works in the centre of the Potteries. William Edwards and his team are well known for their skill in decorating fine ceramics for establishments across the UK and around the world; this includes tableware collection collaborations with Michelin-starred chefs such as Brett Graham and Tom Kerridge. All items from William Edwards contain a bone ash content of 47%.
IN A BITE Collections: Diamond, Sultans Garden, Bespoke Projects: The Other House, London; Pan Pacific, London Trade Shows: Ambiente, Host Milano, NRA Contact: Ilaria Giacomazzi International Sales Manager Ilaria@williamedwards.co.uk www.williamedwards.co.uk
Zwiesel Glas Zwiesel is dedicated to the most discerning guests and finest hosts the world over. The glassmaking company, which celebrates its 150th anniversary in 2022, has always been driven by a desire to create extraordinary pieces, and its long history of dedication to quality is demonstrated by the acoustic sound made by the clink of every Zwiesel glass. The company also ensures that its resources are used responsibly, constantly checking the origin and quality of the raw materials it uses, and incorporating resource-saving production processes into its manufacturing operations. It also works with Tritan crystal glass, whose properties make the glassware particularly longlasting. The brand's success has not gone unnoticed by the industry: Zwiesel Glas has recently won several coveted awards, being named World Market Leader Champion 2022 in the Crystal Glass for High-End Hotels and Catering, and seeing its Glamorous range win the iF Design Award 2021.
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IN A BITE Products: Glassware Projects: Lusail Towers, Doha; Kempinski, Tel Aviv; The RitzCarlton, Amman Trade Shows: Internorga, ProWein Contact: Felix Gittermann Head of Sales International felix.gittermann@zwieselkristallglas.com www.zwiesel-glas.com
ADVERTISING INDEX ISSUE 28
Aerts
063
Martin Miller’s Gin
086
Amefa
014
Meiko
075
Arc International
043
Monno Design
110
Asianera
081
My Glass Studio
069
Nude
021
Bar Convent Berlin
117
Beech Ovens
061
Penfolds
099
BHS
002
Pordamsa
067
Bonna
132
Porland
018
Corby Hall
085
Rona
029
Costa Nova
017
Serax
005
Craster
049
Steelite
035
Cucielo
095
Stolzle
039
Drinique
101
Tablo
104
Equip Hotel
115
Thrill International
107
Franke
012-013
To The Table Asia
118
Front of House
010-011
To The Table Europe
113
Goodfellows
109
To The Table MEA
John Jenkins
057
Urban Bar
La Marzocco Modbar
088
William Edwards
LSA International
055
Woodstone
041
Zwiesel Kristallglas
103
Malfy
006-007
083 131 008-009
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WASHING-UP
An Animated Affair
A miniature culinary star is being beamed in to sprinkle family-friendly fun over the menus at Regent Porto Montenegro.
A pocket-sized prodigy is on track to invigorate
traditional bouillabaisse and a sweet-sounding
the gastronomic offering at Regent Porto
caramel crème brûlée.
Montenegro this summer, with the help of a
“We are thrilled that Le Petit Chef accepted
little animated magic. Le Petit Chef, a 6cm-tall
our invitation to join Regent Porto Montenegro’s
cartoon cook, is taking over the kitchen at the
culinary team this summer!” says Zivkovic of the
luxurious Adriatic resort to oversee the launch
new initiative. “To be the only country between
of a charming new dining concept.
Turkey and Germany to welcome Le Petit Chef
Working alongside the hotel’s Executive
is a true honour and I cannot wait to learn
Chef Marko Zivkovic, Le Petit Chef has curated
more about his travels, gastronomic skills and
a series of menus, each featuring five courses.
incredible character that brings the future of
They will be brought to life via a 3D story
dining extravaganza to Montenegro.”
projected onto the dining table as part of a two-
The accomplished animated chef, a creation
hour-long visual and culinary show. With a
of Belgium’s Skullmapping Studios, has manned
dedication to spotlighting local produce and the
the stoves in 33 countries since he was first
flavours of Montenegro, the menus – which are
created in 2015, but the tenure at Regent Porto
divided into the categories of classic, premium,
Montenegro marks his debut appearance in the
vegetarian and kids – promise to cater to all
Balkan nation. He will be in residence from 9
tastes. Highlights include hearty bisque soup, a
June to 30 September: blink and you’ll miss him.
© Le Petit Chef
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