Supper 12

ISSUE 12

Hotel Pacai

A trio of venues by Nordic Food Republic take centrestage at a Baroque palace in the Baltics

Experimental Group

The group’s founders on building a versatile brand spanning cocktail bars, restaurants and hotels

Heinz Beck

The German-born chef discusses Italian cuisine and the future of his growing restaurant empire

“There are no rules, and those are the rules.”

— Jim Henson

“Expel” by Tamsen Hall © Kalisher

kalisher.com

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INSIDE SUPPER

Setting

SPECIALS

Entrée 013

Starters

Rising to New Heights

• Jin Bo Law Skybar

SIPPING Refreshing the Apéritif 104 044

• 1799

Appetisers 016

The Clifton, Virginia

Trends and concepts impacting the world of

• Akira Back

global hotel F&B

Bisha, Toronto • Kettners

046

Cocktails Drinks

122 126

048 050

Kettner’s Townhouse, London • L27 Rooftop Lounge

Turning Over a New Leaf 108 Full of Beans 113

The Dorsett City Hotel, London

052

EVENTS

The Westin, Nashville

SERVICE

• Rüya

054 GulfHost 132

Grosvenor House, London

EquipHotel 132 Experimental Entrepreneurs

024

Main Course

The childhood friends behind Experimental

• Hotel Pacai

Group discuss how they run cocktail bars,

Vilnius

restaurants and hotels around the world

• Laurent at Café Royal

056

Sleep + Eat

134

Table

136

062

Hotel Café Royal, London • Magic Hour Rooftop Bar & Lounge German Precision, Italian Passion

030

German-born chef Heinz Beck dissects his

• Le Royal

unique take on Italian cuisine and how his

Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa, Épernay

building of a global restaurant empire

068

Moxy Times Square, New York

• Brasserie Prince

SIDES

074 080

The Changing Face of Chafing Dishes 138 Petits Fours 143

The Balmoral, Edinburgh

The Washing Up The Ideas Man

162

036

Robbie Bargh, founder of Gorgeous Group, reveals how traditional approaches to interior design are no longer enough for today’s guest

SWEETS Beyond Foraging

088

Master of Ceremonies

092

Signature

098

003

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Setting

Trends and developments in the global F&B sector

“We want guests to interact with the suppliers in attendance to understand the ethos of the slow food movement and how they can achieve this at home.�

Karen Baxter, General Manager of Hotel Tresanton

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ENTRée

Rising To New Heights

T

here was a time when a hotel’s rooftop was packed

it the largest all-season rooftop bar in New York City. And

to the rafters with pipework, air ducts and back-up

Rockwell Group, working with operator Tao Group, has

generators; the only people who ventured up there

created distinct zones, each with its own bar, seating and

were the maintenance team when the water tanks

identity, meaning that parts of the venue can be neatly

were being serviced or the air conditioning conked out.

closed off to host multiple private events at any given time.

But with a continued rise in land prices and increased

Even more ingenious is the use of the space at all hours

pressure to squeeze revenue out of every last square foot,

of the day. When it’s not operating as a bar, Magic Hour

these formerly underutilised spaces are being transformed,

hosts early-morning yoga classes, again creating revenue

making the leap from back-of-house to front-of-house.

from an unlikely source.

Plant rooms are being relocated to the basement, freeing

And the leisure offer is reaching new heights in other

up prime real estate, and now it seems no urban hotel is

parts of the world too. In the UK, London has seen the

complete without a rooftop bar.

addition of a number of rooftop pools; both The Ned

Indoor smoking bans, developments in retractable roof

and White City House boast sky-high swimming, and

solutions and the emergence of design-led heating options

even in the cooler north-west, Eclectic Hotel Collection

have all had a role to play in the increasing popularity of

has installed an outdoor infinity pool at its most recent

the rooftop bar, as have the likes of pop-up igloos that

opening – King Street Townhouse.

can be installed quickly and easily to provide a temporary F&B offer.

Naturally, all come with an F&B menu, often featuring healthy tonics by day and more tantalising tipples by night.

This issue, we feature Magic Hour Rooftop Bar &

Jin Bo Law Skybar at Dorsett City London, and L27 Rooftop

Lounge at Moxy Times Square, which was crowned best

Lounge at The Westin Nashville also make an appearance

bar at AHEAD Americas earlier in the year. For developers

this issue, as does Experimental Group, which strongly

Lightstone, a rooftop offer was always on the agenda

believes that the B in F&B is the primary money-maker.

thanks to the hotel’s location almost beneath the Empire

The hospitality industry’s shift in focus from

State Building. The incredibly popular venue bills itself

guestrooms to public spaces has really taken root in the

as an urban amusement park and serves up the most

past 12 months, with operators reporting more and more

Instagram-friendly cocktails. However when it comes to

that F&B is driving profit rather than the traditional model

attracting repeat guests and making money, skyline views

of guestrooms. And architects are revealing that they’re

and creative cocktails are just a part of the equation.

now being asked to sacrifice room counts and floor space

Like most rooftop bars, Magic Hour has its own

to make way for bigger bars. At the end of the day, the

dedicated street entry to avoid revellers traipsing through

design and development of new hotels comes down to

the hotel lobby at all hours, but there’s so much more

what consumers want. And judging by the trends that

to the concept beyond this. There’s a state-of-the-art

are taking the sector by storm, rooftop bars are definitely

retractable roof that fully opens within minutes, making

rising to new heights.

Catherine Martin | Managing Editor

013

THE BRIGADE P O R T FO LI O @suppermag

Editorial

Design

Editor-in-Chief Matt Turner - m.turner@mondiale.co.uk

Design Manager David Bell - d.bell@mondiale.co.uk

Managing Editor Catherine Martin - c.martin@mondiale.co.uk

Production Dan Seaton - d.seaton@mondiale.co.uk

Assistant Editor Richard Frost - r.frost@mondiale.co.uk Editorial Assistant Kristofer Thomas - k.thomas@mondiale.co.uk Ben Thomas - b.thomas@mondiale.co.uk Consulting Editor Heleri Rande - heleri@hrande.com

Finance Finance Director Amanda Giles - a.giles@mondiale.co.uk Group Financial Controller Sarah Healey - s.healey@mondiale.co.uk

Advertising Advertising Manager Rachel Chadwick - r.chadwick@mondiale.co.uk Account Manager Visha Khan - v.khan@mondiale.co.uk

Group Credit Controller Lynette Levi - l.levi@mondiale.co.uk Accounts Assistant Kerry Mountney - k.mountney@mondiale.co.uk

Corporate

Marketing Chairman Damian Walsh - d.walsh@mondiale.co.uk Brand Director Amy Wright - a.wright@mondiale.co.uk Data & Circulation Co-ordinator Eliot Ramshead - e.ramshead@mondiale.co.uk Strawberry Studios, Watson Square Stockport, SK1 3AZ, UK Tel: +44 (0)161 476 8390 www.suppermagazine.co.uk

Subscriptions Enquiries: supper@mondiale.co.uk Website: Designed and developed by 93ft.com Supper is printed by Buxton Press

Visit Bauscher at the following trade shows: Alles für den Gast Salzburg, 10.11. – 14.11.2018, Hall 10, Stand 0610 Equip‘Hôtel Paris, 11.11. – 15.11.2018, Hall 7.1, Stand E.1

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18.09.18 16:17

APPETISERS

Market Forces Hotels are incorporating food markets into their F&B offering in order to provide the experiences that modern guests crave.

We’re constantly told that 21st century consumers value

slightly different take on the same idea. Its guest experience

experiences over material possessions, but what exactly does

programme includes an opportunity for hotel residents to

this mean for people working in the hotel F&B sphere? How

spend the day with an experienced chef, beginning with a

can they help guests immerse themselves in the local culture

bite to eat at a local breakfast hotspot before moving onto the

– and create that all-important Instagrammable moment –

food market itself. Once there, they will help the chef select

without coming across as gimmicky or inauthentic?

and buy seasonal ingredients, and learn how to prepare them

Food and drink has long offered travellers a window into another way of life, but surely today’s hotels do not have to

cooking class.

limit themselves to merely hosting accomplished restaurants

Over at The Amam, a spectacular beach resort in southern

or bars that offer an array of locally-inspired flavours within

Vietnam, the team has gone a step further by combining the

convenient reach of the guestrooms. In many parts of the

food market visit with elements of a homestay. Its new ‘From

world, the humble food market remains the go-to place for

My Family to Yours’ cultural food tour pairs guests with

gourmands to find the freshest and finest ingredients that

families from the neighbouring countryside for the day; first

a region has to offer – and this fact has not got unnoticed

they get to know their hosts over a traditional Vietnamese

by some of the most forward-thinking operators within the

breakfast of a filled baguette sandwich and coffee, before

hospitality sector.

buying fresh ingredients from a local market, herb garden

One property that has latched onto the potential of markets

and noodle-making house. They then head over to the

to offer authentic local experiences is Rome Cavalieri Waldorf

family’s house and help cook dishes such as grilled beef in

Astoria. The property now gives guests the chance to rub

betel leaf, Hue-style beef noodle soup and crispy Vietnamese

shoulders with the Romans by offering a private culinary tour

pancakes in the traditional way – without toning down any of

of the longstanding Mercato Trionfale food market with an

the spiciness or flavour intensity. In a lovely touch, after the

English-speaking guide; they can sample local delicacies such

group has dined together, the visitors are given a Vietnamese

as 30-year-aged balsamic vinegar, truffles and ice cream,

recipe book as a parting gift. The Amam’s founder and owner

before tucking into a pizza at the highly regarded Pizzarium

Pham Van Hien certainly has high hopes for the immersive

takeaway nearby. The tour also includes a trip to gourmet food

venture: “It is our hope that guests will not only return home

shop Paciotti where they can take their pick from more than

with an impressive repertoire of authentic dishes with which

200 varieties of cheese and 100 types of meat.

to impress their dinner guests, but with some new friends for

Shangri-La’s Far Eastern Plaza Hotel in Taipei has a

016

to the very highest standards during the course of a private

life from the other side of the globe.”

APPETISERS

Slow Food With chronic impatience driving a gratification generation, could slow food rehabilitate a society addicted to speed?

As the pace of life gathers velocity, a portion of society has

rate of acceleration, Agricola and its manifesto would seek

made the conscious decision to decelerate. Entertainment on

to educate the population in regards to the historical, socio-

demand, an aversion to anything other than instantaneous

economic and flavour touchstones of food, promote locality

gratification and the stripping away of experience by

and the celebration of local markets, and form seed banks

technology and efficiency are identified as symptoms of our

to preserve heirloom varieties and ecological systems, with

ongoing decline, but if the slow movement’s diagnosis of a

the intention of returning an element of experience to the

world passing by too fast to appreciate sounds bleak, then

creation and consumption of food.

worry not, because its followers claim to hold the antidote.

from terminal velocity, he will join hotelier Alex Polizzi and

damage this roadrunner form of living does to us,” explained

restaurateur Oliver Peyton at Cornwall’s Hotel Tersanton

Canadian journalist, speaker and educator Carl Honoré in

this winter for a dedicated slow food experience – Go Slow!

his 2005 TED Talk ‘In Praise of Slowness’ – now viewed

Comprising activities like forages for samphire, beech leaves,

over 2.5 million times and considered a decade ahead of the

mussels and wild garlic in the surrounding coast, a snail’s

curve, the movement only really breaking into mainstream

pace drawing session, and dinners of sustainable, ethical fare

consciousness post-2010 and the wellness trend. “We’re so

from both land and sea, the programme will look to provide

marinated in the culture of speed that we fail to notice the

guests with a respite from modern life’s relentless pace.

toll it takes on every aspect of our lives.”

“Our aim is to get everyone to decompress, to disconnect

A broad doctrine, the slow movement is intended more as an

for 48 hours, take contemplative walks, enjoy the fresh sea

application or approach to existing modes of being as opposed

air, and, most importantly, relax,” explains Karen Baxter,

to a strict set of commandments. As such, its teachings have

Hotel Tresanton’s General Manager. “We also want guests to

taken root in the mediums of music, journalism, education,

interact with the suppliers in attendance to understand the

urban planning, marketing, medicine, money, and, perhaps

ethos of the slow food movement and how they can achieve

most prominently, food.

this at home.”

Slow as a concept has been populised and spread by

13 long years after bringing the idea to mainstream

Honoré’s talk and book-length thesis of the same name,

consciousness, Honoré and the slow movement have found

however slow food specifically can be traced to 1986, when

their way into the receptive medium of hotels – establishments

Carlo Petrini formalised the Agricola company – now the

that for many already signify the act of taking a break – and

aptly named Slow Food Organisation – in response to the

although it might take a while, shifting gears to a slower pace

opening of a McDonald’s by Rome’s Spanish Steps.

could afford guests in even the most rapid of times a chance

Again somewhat ahead of its time considering today’s

018

As part of Honoré’s ongoing quest to encourage a step back

“In the headlong dash of daily life, we often lose sight of the

to appreciate more than just the evening service.

APPETISERS

Room With a Brew With interest in craft beer tourism on the rise, is the hotel industry next on the radar for innovative brewers?

According to the British Beer & Pub Association, 2017 beer

build a 99-key brewery hotel in Escondido, California. On

sales in the UK totalled 26.9 million brewer’s barrels or 44.1

top of a bar-style lobby and in-room Growler Swap delivery

million hectolitres. It comes as no surprise, then, that global

service, the property will offer guests access to specially

beer enterprises are exploring new ways to reach consumers

produced beers, as well as exclusive culinary experiences at

– notably in the hotel sector.

Stone Brewing World Bistro & Gardens.

Following the introduction of The DogHouse concept

Nevertheless, Brewdog and Stone Brewing are far from

last year with the announcement of a hotel in Columbus,

the only ones to combine beds and bottles, with The

Ohio, at the site of its American brewery, BrewDog recently

Swan in Suffolk renowned for its tours and tastings at the

revealed plans to build a second craft beer hotel, this time

neighbouring Adnams brewery and Copper House distillery.

in Aberdeenshire, Scotland. Scheduled to open in the first

The hotel’s signature restaurant The Still Room and main

half of 2019, The DogHouse will be built on a 3.25-acre site

bar The Tap Room also serve a wide variety of Adnams beers

adjacent to BrewDog’s current 1 million-hectolitre brewery,

and spirits.

with funding coming from the company’s Equity for Punks

Responding to craft beer trends, hotel operators have

initiative – a crowdfunding drive that has raised over £53

begun experimenting with brewmasters too; Shangri-La’s

million from 73,000 backers. The hotel’s 26 guestrooms will

Kerry Hotel Pudong in Shanghai, for example, has hired

feature beer taps and a built-in fridge in the shower, whilst

an in-house specialist for The Brew, its aptly named onsite

guests will be able to watch brewers at work with select

brewery designed and built around three-storey stainless

rooms overlooking a newly-completed brewhouse expansion,

steel production vats. Likewise, Grande Lakes Orlando, which

canning facility and packing hall.

comprises The Ritz-Carlton and JW Marriott Orlando, has

“The DogHouse is our gift to passionate craft beer fans

appointed local connoisseur Aaron Libera to lead Whisper

making the pilgrimage to our brewery in Aberdeenshire,” says

Creek Farm: The Brewery, which produces 28 gallons of beer

James Watt, co-founder of BrewDog. “The idea of opening a

per week for the resort.

beer hotel has always been high on our agenda and now we are

Though mass-produced lager is falling out of favour in

finally able to realise that dream, right here at our HQ. This

some markets, craft beer tourism continues to grow at pace,

will be the ultimate destination for craft beer fans seeking

with on-trend brews and innovative serves now becoming

hops with their holidays. This is a beer nirvana.”

the norm. The development of brewery hotels seems a natural

Likewise, San Diego-based Stone Brewing, the tenth largest brewer in the US, is investing an estimated US$26 million to

020

progression, and one that consumers seeking authentic hotel experiences will surely raise a glass to in the coming years.

Creating Hospitality

The Rock Natural Born Design

Villeroy & Boch S.Ă .r.l.

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SERVICE

Profiling leading figures with a fresh take on hotel F&B

“F&B in a hotel can take different shapes and forms, it does not need to be a restaurant, but it needs to make sense for the local environment.�

Pierre-Charles Cros, co-founder of Experimental Group

SERVICE

Experimental Entrepreneurs How have three childhood friends grown Experimental Group from one cocktail bar into a home for some of the world’s top bartenders, chefs and hoteliers?

Words: Heleri Rande • Photography: Courtesy of Experimental Group

W

hen childhood friends Romée de Goriainoff, PierreCharles Cros and Olivier Bon opened their first venture – Experimental Cocktail Club on Paris’ Rue Saint-Sauveur – little did they know how quickly

the business would grow into a hospitality empire. Now, 11 years later, Experimental Group has no fewer than 17 active venues in its portfolio, ranging from cocktail, wine and beach bars to restaurants and hotels. The group has gone international too; it already boasts sites in Paris, London, New York and Ibiza, with further openings in Verbier, Venice, Menorca and Lisbon on the horizon.

Such rapid growth begs an obvious question: what is it about these three young Frenchmen that ensures they are flourishing where so many others have failed? Part of the answer lies in their innate sense of hospitality; extremely relaxed and welcoming, the trio clearly practice what they preach. “The Experimental style of service is unique and known by our clients across the globe,” remarks Bon. “You simply have to cross the threshold of one of our properties and be greeted by our staff to understand that you are in a unique place.

This is because we have a certain style and way to serve clients, a savoir-faire that is inviting, relaxed and professional.”

It is an approach that resonates across different markets; the group’s debut restaurant Beef Club opened in Paris in 2012, its first beach club followed in Ibiza in 2013 and inaugural hotel project Grand Pigalle Hotel landed in Paris in 2015. “The great thing is that every time we’ve gone into a new category of hospitality, a big success has

“We like to have a personal relationship before it turns into a business relationship.

If we ask someone to work with us, it is because we really love what they do.”

Pierre-Charles Cros

followed that resonates around the world, helping to build the brand,”

“The younger guys want to overcomplicate cocktails, occasionally

says Goriainoff. Next up on the agenda is the Fabrizio Casiraghi-

doing more for their colleagues than for the customer,” he says. “It

designed Experimental Chalet in Verbier, the group’s reimagining of an

is important to remind them to put the client in the centre. You can’t

Alpine escape, featuring 39 guestrooms as well as a restaurant, cocktail

forget that sometimes people just want to have a simple cocktail.”

bar and club, spa, hammam and solarium. The new hotel, which is due

group sommeliers? Having introduced a completely new offering to

Farm Club, the late-night locale that has welcomed the likes of David

the New York wine scene when they launched Compagnie des Vins

Bowie and Diana Ross to its famous dance floor down the years.

Surnaturels in 2014, the founders are very careful to not pressure their

It seems as though the trio are reaping the rewards of their singular

staff, but instead let the experts do their job without interference. There

technique for identifying future business partners. “Over the years, we

are discussions and tastings, of course, but overall the management

have built a natural network of people who we like,” explains Cros. “And

style speaks to the founders’ shared character traits – relaxed and

we like to have a personal relationship before it turns into a business

flexible. “We have very passionate and dedicated sommeliers, it is hard

relationship. If we ask someone to work with us, it is because we really

to surprise them,” observes Goriainoff.

love what they do.” A recent example of this dynamic in action is the

Talking about the roles and responsibilities of the ownership group

group’s collaboration in Verbier with chef Gregory Marchand, the

and how each partner contributes to the team, there really are no clearly

owner of celebrated restaurant Frenchie on Paris’ Rue de Nil and its UK

defined lines. Cros and Goriainoff, who live in London, focus more on

counterpart in London’s Covent Garden. “We have known Greg for years,

business development and back of house, whilst Paris-based Bon looks

and are regular clients of his restaurants as well,” Goriainoff continues.

after local operations, design and the savoir-faire of the group. Where

In general, though, the founders do not subscribe to the widely held

they do draw the line is decision-making. “Every decision has to be

notion that hotel restaurants need to collaborate with celebrity chefs in

taken by the three of us,” confirms Goriainoff. “If an opportunity comes

order to be a success. Rather, the consensus seems to be that bringing in

up, we sit around the table, talk about the pros and cons, look at how

a celebrity can be more of a hindrance than anything else, although they

we would structure the deals, and consider whether it makes sense for

do concede that there is value in having chefs who are recognised within

the brand.” Furthermore, when the Frenchmen decided to bring their

their own circles. “We need more than a chef; we need a concept,”

concept to London in 2010 by opening Experimental Cocktail Club in

explains Goriainoff.

Chinatown, Xavier Padovani joined the group. The current London

The group currently has three hotels in operation, Grand Pigalle

portfolio includes the original outpost in Chinatown, Compagnie des

and Grands Boulevards in Paris and Henrietta in London, with a

Vins Surnaturels in Seven Dials, Joyeux Bordel in Shoreditch, Chess

different F&B offering at each. In Paris, chef Giovanni Passerini has

Club in Mayfair and Henrietta Hotel and Bistro in Covent Garden, which

created a more casual wine bar-style, sharing-menu concept for the

will see an additional 23 rooms open across the street from the current

Pigalle property and a full-scale restaurant at Grands Boulevards

location by the end of next year.

offering French-Italian country cooking. The story for Henrietta’s F&B,

A testament to the brand’s strong allure for F&B professionals, the

meanwhile, took a different turn at the beginning of this year with the

group enjoys a surprisingly low employee turnover, and its focus on

departure of chef Ollie Dabbous. The recently launched Henrietta Bistro

promoting from within means that many of its longstanding members

concept is headed by chef Sylvain Roucayrol, who joined from sister site

of staff have now made it into management-level roles – the majority of

Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels in Seven Dials, and the casual menu

whom are women. “It was not something we were consciously striving

takes inspiration from the Basque Country as well as Corsica and the

for, but we got the best talent and they happened to be women,” recalls

Catalan region. “The change was a disruption but we wanted to move

Goriainoff. This open-minded approach is also evident in how the

closer to our clientele,” explains Cros. “And we want to be the opposite

founders partner with designers. “We are proud of the different designs

of fine dining, a lively place,” adds Goriainoff.

for each of our projects and are involved in the process step by step,”

Given that the three visionaries started in the spirits business, it

026

What about their approach towards wine programme curators and

to open in December 2018, will also take over the holiday resort’s iconic

explains Bon. “The idea is to allow full creative autonomy to designers

comes as no surprise that each hotel has a strong bar programme,

like Dorothée Meilichzon and Fabrizio Casiraghi, while contributing our

although Goriainoff admits that the younger bartenders do sometimes

style of welcoming, non-ostentatious luxury comfort that makes you

need to be kept in check as their creative impulses can easily backfire.

want to stay even longer.”

SERVICE

Restaurant Bachaumont in Paris

Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels in New York

Experimental Chalet, Verbier

027

SERVICE

Hotel des Grands Boulevards in Paris © Karel Balas

Scaling up any business is not without its challenges, however, and

of the likes of Airbnb and Deliveroo taking business from hotels and

both the staffing and operational fronts in order to better structure the

restaurants has not particularly shaken the group. On the contrary,

growing company. They have also been floating the idea of developing a

the founders believe that innovators such as these have disrupted

full training programme for staff. But what is striking to hear in today’s

the market in a good way and essentially cater to a different clientele

economic climate is just how passionate the founders are about making

anyway. “We bring an experience, that is what they don’t offer – a

F&B work within a hotel space, which perhaps reflects their conviction

human being looking after you,” says Cros.

that having rooms provides more scope to make projects financially

Coming from an F&B background and having started with just one

viable. “It is very difficult to make money in restaurants – we manage

cocktail bar has evidently given the trio a real edge over other hotels.

to do it, but we have never seen competition like this. You fight for every

Moreover, their decision to reinvest profits into the business presents

penny, but in hotels you have more synergy,” says Goriainoff. “It is

the founders with considerably more expansion opportunities. Naturally,

about an experience, we are the Experimental Club after all,” adds Cros.

the pros and cons of each new venue have to be properly debated

“F&B in a hotel can take different shapes and forms, it does not need to

internally, but so far their healthy approach to risk and reward has led

be a restaurant, but it needs to make sense for the local environment.”

them to roll out to a number of different locations and be successful at

The founders are also well aware that the primary money-maker in

every point. Goriainoff does not shy away from admitting that in the

the F&B sector is usually the B element, which gives the group a clear

future they might consider a more asset-light model, but it seems that

advantage in the hotel marketplace. “For cocktails, you can charge

they have not quite reached that point yet. “Under one roof, with an

because people are buying an experience more than anything, but

extended team, we have more resources – so we can express ourselves

spending £30 on a meal is too expensive,” reflects Goriainoff. Some of

in every direction,” says Cros. “That is our focus now.”

this comes down to pure economics, with the restaurant category having

Looking ahead to the future, it would appear that nothing can stop

become incredibly saturated in many western markets. “Eventually this

the ambitious entrepreneurs from taking on the rest of the world

is like a clean-up, some will go out of business, and others will suffer for

together – their ultimate dream is to have hotels in every city that they

many different reasons,” concludes Cros.

love. Clearly, Goriainoff, Cros and Bon do not lack ambition and are still

When conversation turns to the potential impact of rapid change in the hospitality market, meanwhile, the young hoteliers are much more

028

optimistic than some of their more senior corporate counterparts. Fear

the founders are fully aware of the need to implement changes on

full of ideas, so you certainly would not bet against their experimental approach to hospitality serving them well for many years to come.

SERVICE

German Precision, Italian Passion German-born chef Heinz Beck discusses his unique take on Italian cuisine and his building of a global restaurant empire.

Words: Richard Frost • Photography: © Nicolas di Santo

H

einz Beck is animated and full of energy, living proof that his healthconscious culinary style combining Italian cuisine with nutritional awareness really does pay dividends. Here in his new restaurant at Brown’s Hotel in London’s Mayfair, the 55-year-old frequently breaks into a friendly smile as

he discusses his lifelong passion for the kitchen, before leaning back contentedly as he reflects on a remarkable rise to the very top of the hospitality profession. Today he oversees a multi-faceted empire spanning almost a dozen Italian restaurants across Europe, the Middle East and Asia – including his triple-Michelin-starred flagship La Pergola in the Rome Cavalieri Waldorf Astoria – as well as a host of cookbooks and a range of sauces.

The common thread across Beck’s many different business interests is, of course, his distinct approach to food. “The basis of my cooking is to create a healthy way of producing modern Italian dishes,” he explains. “We are what we eat and I firmly believe that we can use nutrition to prevent disease.”

If truth be told, the milieu of an international chef isn’t always conducive to healthy living; Beck freely admits that much of his time is spent on the road, catching one plane after another, sleeping less than he should and abandoning all notion of a regular daily routine. Despite this, he states with pride that he hasn’t needed any medicines for the last six years (“not even an aspirin”) and he’s certain about the reason for this impressive run of health – knowing how to eat properly.

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“I don’t have any pills at home,” he says. “Two

areas after all. The beautiful restaurant, designed in

years ago, I took out the medicine box and looked at

tandem with Olga Polizzi of Brown’s owner Rocco

the expiry dates and they had all expired, so I threw

Forte Hotels, has undergone a significant revamp

them away. Now the box is completely empty.” Then

since its days as Hix Mayfair but retains the original

with a mischievous twinkle in his eye, he adds: “I’m a

1900s oak panelling, albeit complemented by specially

bad person to the pharmaceutical industry - they get

commissioned botanical wallpaper. Bespoke chandeliers

nothing out of me.”

from Chelini in Florence, ornamental bronze screens,

Beck is no stranger to working with academics

antiques from Martin Johnson and colossal heads from

and researchers on dietary matters and has written

Emily Young (an alternative to full-length statues)

extensively about the subject in titles like ‘Hypertension

further reinforce the sense of elegance.

and Nutrition’ and ‘Feed the Heart’, but he also puts

Clearly, this stylish venue is no mere afterthought for

what he’s learnt into practice across his restaurants.

Beck, but rather a carefully considered addition to his

Here at Brown’s, purportedly London’s oldest hotel, we

growing restaurant portfolio. It also provides further

find a restaurant boasting a very modern preoccupation

proof of the chef’s enduring affinity for hotels; besides

with light and healthy cuisine. An extensive salad and

La Pergola and Beck at Brown’s, there’s also St. George

appetiser menu includes a refreshing summer vegetable

Restaurant by Heinz Beck at The Ashbee Hotel in Sicily,

salad with avocado, mixed seeds and pistachio pesto;

Social by Heinz Beck at Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm

and pasta dishes such as linguine with salsify and

Jumeirah and the Michelin-starred Gusto by Heinz Beck

summer truffle. Fish options include grilled Dover sole

at Quinta do Lago in Portugal. We should probably also

with baby carrots, lemon and capers sauce, where the

include Beck’s restaurant Apsley’s at The Lanesborough

delicious star ingredient is boned at the table before

in nearby Belgravia, which opened in September 2009

being carefully transferred to the plate; meanwhile, the

and rapidly won a Michelin star before closing its doors

“The basis of my cooking is to create a healthy way of producing modern Italian dishes.”

relatively small meat section features roast veal with

when the hotel shut for a major refurbishment in 2013;

grilled aubergine, ricotta salad and passata; and the

the space has since become Eric Frechon’s Celeste

dessert menu boasts a delicate construction comprising

restaurant. Beck displays a tinge of regret about the loss

blackberries, lemon curd and basil ice cream. “We

of Apsley’s – “we did beautiful work there and it was

wanted to create something that’s light and easy to

very successful” – but also enough pragmatism to accept

digest because this is what the modern clientele’s

that the circumstances that first brought him to The

looking for,” says Beck. “It’s not only a London thing

Lanesborough had changed and it was time to move on.

either, I think the whole world is like this. People are seeking out healthy cooking more and more.”

A few dishes, notably the chef’s signature fagotelli alla

followed in the wake of Ora, a more explicitly fine-

carbonara and the grilled black cod with ‘nduja crust,

dining concept in the same space that gave London

have come over from La Pergola but most have been

diners a taste of La Pergola throughout November and

developed especially for Brown’s. “The dishes in Beck

December 2017. Beck also created a pop-up at Hotel

at Brown’s are more traditional than La Pergola, where

Metropole Monte-Carlo last summer after accepting an

the food is much more sophisticated and technical,”

invitation from renowned French chefs Joël Robuchon

says Beck. This reflects the fact that the commercial

and Christophe Cussac to bring his cuisine to Monaco.

proposition in London is very different to Rome; the

Special projects like these give Beck the chance to

restaurant at Brown’s is a “casual dining concept”, he

offer exciting new opportunities to his close-knit team.

explains, designed to attract regular customers rather

Alongside him today is Hero de Agostinos, for example,

than just the occasional anniversary or birthday crowd,

who first trained under Beck as an 18-year-old at La

whereas La Pergola is unapologetically “fine dining”

Pergola and was instrumental in ensuring that the pop-

and has long attracted one-off gourmet travellers from

ups in Monte Carlo and London were successful; he’s

around the globe.

now Executive Chef of Beck at Brown’s. “He gave me the

Beck’s idea of casual dining shouldn’t be taken too literally however – we’re in one of London’s wealthiest

032

The hotel restaurant count swells further when you take into account pop-ups. Beck at Brown’s actually

chance to develop my skills,” admits de Agostinos. “I’m a strong character but he’s supported me for 22 years,

Pan-fried veal sweetbeads with crunchy amaranth and beetroot cream from Beck at Brown’s

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Summer vegetable salad with avocado, mixed seeds and pistachio pesto from Beck at Brown’s

which is fantastic.” He’s not the only one either, as Beck is

at Rocco Forte Hotels, who helped make Beck at Brown’s

of staff who’ve worked with him for more than 20 years.

happen, the huge impression he’s made in Rome marks him

Not bad when you consider how often top talent generally

out as a special chef. “The amazing thing about Heinz is that

moves around in hospitality circles.

he’s a German guy who made his name in Italian cuisine

Beck has certainly come a long way since qualifying as

in Italy,” she says. “The barriers that he must have had to

a chef in Passau on the German-Austrian border in 1983.

overcome, can you imagine? Persuading Italian diners that

Stints in the highly regarded kitchens of Colombi Hotel

a German chef was going to teach them about Italian food.

in Freiburg, Residenz Heinz Winkler in Aschau, Tantris in

But now he has lots of local customers and he’s incredibly

Munich, Tristan in Mallorca and Grand Hotel Esplanade in

successful.” Forte’s clearly a fan of his food but she’s

Berlin broadened his repertoire, but it wasn’t until Rome

equally effusive about the man, describing him in glowing

came calling in the mid ‘90s that Beck really cemented

terms as “a lovely, calm, amazingly humble chef” who

his reputation in the upper echelons of gastronomy. La

“literally works all hours but somehow manages to keep his

Pergola opened in 1994 though its success was by no means

composure throughout”, and in truth it’s hard to imagine

a foregone conclusion; at the time, Beck didn’t speak any

anything flustering such an amiable and positive personality

Italian and he’d had precious little experience preparing

either inside or outside the kitchen.

Italian food. “I had to change my cooking style,” he says

Indeed, you get the sense that Beck really can do

matter of factly. “When I went to Italy, I didn’t have a lot of

anything he wants, whether that be launching more

Italian experiences.”

restaurants around the world or helping Rome’s only

Fortunately, Beck felt right at home with Italian cuisine

034

For Lydia Forte, the Group Director of Food & Beverage

only too happy to reel off the names of seven key members

triple-Michelin-starred restaurant to scale new heights.

from the very start. “Of course, it was a change but I

“I’m still developing every day,” he says, another smile

adapted by studying, by learning and by understanding.

breaking across his face. “I’m not normally one to look back

If I’d gone to another country, perhaps I would’ve learnt

over what I’ve done, I prefer to look to the future and what

a different way of producing my dishes. But for sure, my

I can do next.” This is a chef who’s clearly in a great place

sensibility about ingredients, techniques and taste would

right now, both physically and mentally, and you certainly

have been the same because this is what’s inside you. This

wouldn’t bet against him teaching the world how Italian

is your talent, your passion, your way of thinking.”

cuisine should be done for a good few years yet.

SERVICE

The Ideas Man With traditional approaches to interior design no longer enough to create the experiences that today’s guests seek, Robbie Bargh and Gorgeous Group have stepped in to provide some much-needed substance.

Words: Kristofer Thomas

R

obbie Bargh is in the business of ideas. Where

year – in which Bargh and Gorgeous Group have instilled

traditional interior design leans more towards a

a conceptual underpinning for designers EPR Architects,

reliance on aesthetics of the physical realm, Bargh’s

Russell Sage Studio and Tara Bernerd & Partners to build

work deals first and foremost in concepts. Since

upon. A heavy velvet curtain separates Fitz’s from the wider

founding Gorgeous Group at the turn of the millennium,

hotel, whilst a shimmering disco ball – hanging still for the

Bargh has been creating and telling stories for hotels,

lunch service – and a large, swirling vortex of fabric on the

bars and restaurants from Puerto Rico to Leeds, and for

ceiling mark the venue out as a radical departure from the

clients in the vein of heavyweights like Jumeirah, Waldorf

hotel’s overarching scheme.

Astoria and Hilton, as well as smaller, independent

“The owner was vocal about having something in this

venues. Operating out of London, the group’s services

space that wasn’t like a hotel,” Bargh explains, taking a

encompass the more intangible aspects of design – the

seat. “If you think about Bloomsbury last century, it had

feel of a space, the underlying narrative it is based upon,

this radical, bohemian crowd coming in, and so we wanted

and the “appetite” from which a menu will grow – as well

to create something that Fitzroy Doll – who built and

as the more traditional elements of music, uniforms and

designed the original Hotel Russell – would have if he were

equipment, underscoring everything with an emphasis on

around today.”

substance and depth of meaning that neatly merge together into one cohesive experience.

We meet in a quiet corner of Fitz’s Bar, the darkly

The resulting space, indebted to hedonism, indulgence, love triangles and literature, draws influence from both the former life of the building that it inhabits as well as

seductive drinking quarters serving the Kimpton Fitzroy

gathering places of modern lore such as Studio 54 and

London – formerly Principal London until purchased by

Sunset Boulevard. Some natural curiosity is thrown in too,

Convivio and brought into the IHG portfolio earlier this

with Bargh imagining a hypothetical collaboration between

037

“If you can make people feel special or different just by giving them a plate of food, that leaves a wonderful impression.”

the bar’s namesake Fitzroy Doll and another Fitz of

London, both of which the group helped bring to

sybaritic infamy in F. Scott Fitzgerald, the resulting

life. The latter, at the peak of its powers, was widely

culture clash providing notes of inspiration that

regarded as one of the world’s finest bars. “If you

have ultimately been incorporated into the wider

can make people feel special or different just by

composition. “It’s unashamedly more of an evening

giving them a plate of food, that leaves a wonderful

than a day bar, with the kinds of fabrics, music,

impression,” he adds.

lighting and style that we don’t see much anymore,”

Hotels are of particular interest to Bargh, and

he explains. “But you have to create somewhere that

arguably where the group’s work can take on its

people go to escape from the world.”

purest form. For guests, hotel bars and restaurants

Escapism, be it subtle or overt, plays a key role

short bursts of experience – a few fleeting nights, or

at large. If one of the stories that the group pieces

just the one drink – in which Gorgeous Group crafts

together – from reference books, films, memories,

a narrative that can have people returning as they

people and history, it’s an open playing field – can

would a favourite film. “Sometimes you can’t quite

for a moment take a guest somewhere other than the

put your finger on why it’s so great,” he says. “But

world they know, then it can be the equivalent of a

when you walk out or wake up the next day, it stays

good book to a compelled reader. Escapism is what

with you. A lot of the hotel brands are becoming very

Bargh found in the kaleidoscopic films of American

homogenised, so they rely on the narrative you get

choreographer Busby Barkley when growing up

from eating and drinking experiences to give them

in one of Manchester’s satellite council estates.

some depth and diversity.”

And escapism is the word Bargh uses to describe

038

are inherently temporary, unfolding like novellas;

in Bargh’s work, as does the function of narrative

Both here at Fitz’s and up north, where The Refuge

his first restaurant experience at age 17, recalled

plays host to another of the group’s concepts at The

with all the clarity of a momentous life event. The

Principal Manchester – this hotel’s sister property,

Beefeater within The Heaton Park Hotel may seem

also now under the IHG roof – the programme

a humble start now that we are sitting in Fitz’s,

creates vastly different experiences within the same

but in the context of Bargh’s line of work it makes

brand. Where Fitz’s is dark and intimate, The Refuge

perfect sense. There was a certain enchantment to

is expansive, vast with tall columns, arches and

people dressed in the royal rouge uniform serving

veined marble; the former headed up by a mixologist

food, just as there is a certain enchantment in The

previously of Soho’s exclusive Milk & Honey, the

Ritz-Carlton’s Global Luxury Beverage Program – a

latter overseen by DJs-turned-restaurateurs The

contemporary, cosmopolitan update to the brand’s

Unabombers. And even within the same hotel,

stuffy noughties menu – or Artesian at The Langham

seafood restaurant Neptune, with its peach and

SERVICE

The seductive Fitz’s Bar is based on a concept inspired by hedonism, indulgence, love triangles and literature

039

SERVICE

Orlando with local Bloomsbury Pastis at Fitz’s Bar Vesca Negroni at Fitz’s Bar

blood-orange palette, is a far cry from where we sit currently just a

to an Arab alchemist and American settlers; the classic mixtures of the

few doors down. He explains the process like this: “You have to create

following pages given the weight of substance before an ingredient is

a great culture which respects the bigger picture of the wider hotel,

even listed. Providing the “backbone, muscle and make-up” of these

and which also serves the audience. My job sometimes feels like that

spaces represents a new challenge every time, and in tune with the

of a circus master; conducting everything and bringing it all together.

conceptual nature of the work generates a social currency beyond

Hoteliers are waking up to the fact that they can’t just get the room

measurement; memories, a feeling, and the perennially valuable word

right between 7am and 7pm, and equally they can’t just come up with a

of mouth. “I’m very lucky in that this is not a job, it doesn’t feel like one

nice design – it’s got to have layers and substance. Its not just about the

anyway. We love what we do, and we’re very fortunate. We give people

basics anymore.”

things that can brighten their days and make them think, and if not then

Through Bargh’s eyes, hotel bars can be “the communal hangout, the therapy chair, or the creative space, there’s a whole catalogue of

at least take them on a journey.”

There is no university course or qualification for this line of work;

possibilities,” and each will be read and given a conceptual foundation

the business of ideas responds more to emotional resonance than test

from which to grow. As hospitality has shifted away from the purely

scores. As such, instinct and a trust in his own principals have proved

material offer in favour of more experiential approaches, Gorgeous

key tools. “I’ve learnt, perhaps the hard way, to follow my feelings,”

Group has found itself well-placed to incorporate the business of ideas

Bargh notes, because if the man behind the world of the bar doesn’t feel

into the changing hotel model. Not that great hospitality hasn’t always

at home in it, then how could anyone else?

operated on great ideas, but rather Bargh adds elements of fiction,

Before leaving he recounts a night in Fitz’s Bar a few days after it

obscure interpretation and other less tangible dimensions to the mix;

opened, when he’d dropped by to see the place in action. Sitting towards

aspects hoteliers may have been reluctant to adopt earlier for fear of the

the back, he watched as a large drag performer in full burlesque costume

gimmicky connotations. “You’re playing with budgets, ambitions and

took to the stage, passing the vase of peacock feathers placed on the bar

expectations, so you’ve got to be careful and get it right,” he explains.

and a few bemused patrons on the way. The eyes of the room all darted

Work with Sofitel at Hotel Rotary Geneva produced the classically

040

© Jason Bailey

about, caught off-guard by the impromptu curtain call, but when the

European L’Artisan, stocked wall-to-wall with art and bursts of pattern

song began, and was carried through the room in deep, rich bass tones,

against leather and wood, whilst a drinks concept at The Dorchester in

there was a lightning moment of wonder and joy in this black velvet

London sees the menu prefaced with a detailed history of distillation,

bottle. “It was perfect in a way,” he concludes. “It channeled everything

tracing the practice from its roots in China through the Roman empire

we wanted.”

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Specials

Exploring the concepts behind new hotel F&B venues

“I think that Eastern Europe is where the next wave of undiscovered culinary food culture revolutions could come from.�

Claus Meyer, instigator of the New Nordic Food Manifesto and co-founder of Noma

STARTERS

Photography: © Alexis Stavrides

Jin Bo Law Skybar Dorsett City London

Hong Kong-based hotel group Dorsett Hospitality International has

natural light from the floor-to-ceiling windows in the daytime, and a mix

brought a taste of Asia to central London with Jin Bo Law Skybar. The

of contemporary and Asian-style lighting at night.

new destination rooftop bar is located on the 14th floor of the 267-room

Head Bartender Davide Valvano, working together with F&B Manager

Dorsett City London near Tower Bridge and boasts an outdoor terrace with

Vladimir Kudojar, presides over a cocktail menu that carefully balances

spectacular views over landmarks such as The Gherkin, The Walkie-Talkie

sweet, savoury and sour flavours throughout. The Asian inspiration is writ

and The Shard.

large in concoctions such as Pickled Tink (soju, kummel, lime juice, pickled

Using the original McBains Cooper design, Dexter Moren Associates was

ginger, peach brandy, raspberry and ginger ale) and Spice to Mead You

responsible for replanning the hotel’s interior layout, and subsequently

(gin, quince liqueur, five-spiced honey mead, lemon, ice rock and Chinese

went about securing planning permission for the rooftop extension. The

cherry apple). Visitors can also choose from a range of wines, spirits,

interior design scheme, by Artichaut, is dominated by a beautiful latticed

liqueurs and an international beer selection that includes Hitachino Nest

golden pineapple design that sweeps over the bar – a tropical motif

White Ale, Flying Dog Easy IPA, Coopers Pale Ale and Lucky Buddha Beer.

recurring throughout the venue – while vibrant colours are also evident

Dorsett City London is the hotel group’s second property in the UK

in the yellow bar stools, green banquettes and red sofas. At the other end

following the opening of a Chinese-inspired 317-key hotel at Shepherd’s

of the colour spectrum, grey marble floors and deep-brown tables provide

Bush in 2014.

a welcome note of contrast, as does the stylish wallpaper showcasing a repeating pattern of exotic insect shapes. The space is brought to life by

www.jinbolaw.co.uk

IN A BITE Covers: 66 (seated), 150 (standing) • Owner: Far East Consortium • Operator: Dorsett Hospitality International • Architecture: Dexter Moren Associates • Interior Design: Artichaut • Main Contractor: Willmott Dixon • F&B Consultant: Gareth Evans • F&B Manager: Vladimir Kudojar • Head Bartender: Davide Valvanoger • Glassware: Chef & Sommelier, Arcoroc • Catering Equipment: Jura 044

www.pordamsa.com @pordamsadesignforchefs

STARTERS

Photography: © Read McKendree

1799 The Clifton, Virginia

Nestled out in 100 acres of Virginia countryside near Charlottesville,

From small plates of local corn soup and tempura broccoli to a Sunday

the intimate 20-key The Clifton was originally constructed in 1799 as a

brunch of oysters on the half shell, 1799 brings together influences close

colonial-style house for founding father Thomas Jefferson’s daughter and

to its historic home with elements from farther afield to give guests a taste

her husband – a heritage property with roots in America’s history. Named

of Virginia and beyond. The Copper Bar, meanwhile, offers a more casual

after the year of its establishment’s own founding in a nod to a past it holds

option, with Bousquet’s reimagined drinks menu featuring an extensive

dear, the hotel’s newly rejuvenated 1799 restaurant and adjoining Copper

wine programme and inventive seasonal libations. Be it decadent burgers,

Bar have been given both a fresh look and a revamped concept to boot.

indulgent deep-fried French toast, Atlantic halibut with white beans and

Headed up by Michelin-starred Executive Chef Matthew Bousquet –

ratatouille or milk-braised pork shoulder, 1799 gives classic regional fare

previously of New York’s Lespinasse and his own Mirepoix and Bistro M

a modern twist, just as its renovation sought to do in updating a piece of

ventures – and with a menu pairing French technique with local cuisine

Virginian history for a new era.

alongside ingredients drawn from the hotel’s vegetable and herb garden,

“On matters of style, swim with the current, on matters of principle,

the property’s F&B offering provides a European-cum-Appalachian take

stand like a rock,” Jefferson once said, perhaps not in reference to interior

on New American Cuisine. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are now served up

design or menu curation, but entirely applicable here. For this slice of

in three different settings: the sun-drenched Veranda, the sophisticated

American heritage, 1799 and Copper Bar are a new world indeed.

Library and the intimate Wine Cellar, meaning guests can choose from a variety of different tones and experiences.

www.the-clifton.com/1799

IN A BITE Covers: 246 • Owner: Westmount Capital Group • Operator: Scout Hotels & Resorts • Interior Design: Blackberry Farm Design • Executive Chef: Matthew Bousquet • Branding: Watermark Design

046

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STARTERS

Photography: © Maxime Brouillet

Akira Back Bisha, Toronto

Born in Seoul and raised in Colorado, Michelin-starred chef Akira Back has

– while the destination sushi bar is illuminated by gold-finished brass

gained a reputation for combining Korean, Japanese and western influences

volumes extending from floor to ceiling.

to create fusion cuisine of exceptional quality. Now he has opened his first

The food options, spanning everything from charcoal-grilled ribeye

Canadian restaurant with the launch of a 3,000ft2 space on the second floor

steak and eggplant miso to sushi and sashimi, include fan favourites such

of Bisha, the newly built boutique in Toronto’s Entertainment District.

as Back’s signature raw tuna pizza alongside several dishes unique to

Patrons enter the Studio Munge-designed restaurant by climbing an

Toronto. Menu items are served on custom dinnerware by Kevala Ceramics

opulent staircase decorated in gold leaf and topped by a six-tiered ceiling

and Legale, with some plates featuring artwork by Back’s mother. Cutlery

structure with glowing cove lighting. Once inside, they are greeted by a

is by Studio William and the steak knives are from Laguiole.

sleek 147-cover restaurant, with the dominant colours of gold and carbon

The drinks selection continues the Asian theme with enticing cocktails

black recurring across the floors, walls, tables, chairs and bar stools. This

incorporating ingredients such as shiitake-infused Belvedere vodka, sake

contrasts with the arched ceiling, featuring a handpainted mural showing

and Hibiki Japanese Harmony whisky, as well as an extensive wine, spirits

indigo petals with shimmering gold accents, and custom mobile fabricated

and beer selection. There are also a number of dessert wines that have been

by PCL Graphics that organically weaves its way through the space.

chosen to pair well with sweet treats like black sesame cheesecake, apple

The restaurant’s design cleverly signposts the chef’s Asian influences

harumaki and matcha mousse cake.

throughout. The walls, for example, are inspired by Shou Sugi Ban – a traditional Japanese art of preserving and finishing wood through fire

www.akirabacktoronto.com

IN A BITE Covers: 147 • Owner: ICONINK • Operator: Loews (hotel), Ink Entertainment (F&B) • Developer: Lifetime Developments • Architecture: Wallman Architects • Interior Design: Studio Munge • Art Consultant: GZ International • Executive Chef: Akira Back • Head Chef: Sung Won Hwang • Sushi Chef: Kihyun Kim • F&B Manager: Raffaele Posteraro • Dinnerware: Kevala Ceramics, Legale • Serveware: Korin • Cutlery: Studio William • Steak Knives: Laguiole

048

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STARTERS

Kettners Kettners Townhouse, London

Soho House started life in 1995 at 40 Greek Street in the heart of central

menu of brasserie classics, and a design overhaul inspired by the French

London, but the story of the property it has now opened just around the

bistros of old. Original Grade II-listed details have been restored, while

corner dates back much further. Established in 1867 by Auguste Kettner,

floral plasterwork and heritage mirrors line the walls, providing a fitting

Kettners was one of the city’s first French restaurants, frequented by

backdrop to the rosewood and mahogany antique furniture.

famous patrons such as Winston Churchill, Agatha Christie, Oscar Wilde

The upper floors have been converted into the guestrooms, accessed

and Margaret Thatcher. Rumour has it that King Edward VII even smuggled

via the original 18th century spiral staircase. Interiors are reminiscent of

in his mistress, the actress Lillie Langtry, via a tunnel to The Palace Theatre.

1920s French boudoirs, with Georgian timber floorboards and fireplaces,

Latterly, the restaurant was perhaps best known for its association with

traditional windows and vintage furnishings, while green velvet scalloped

Pizza Express, whose founder Peter Boizot bought it in 1980. Boizot ran it

headboards and deep button armchairs sit against handpainted Georgian-

as an unbranded pizzeria separate to his nationwide chain before selling up

inspired wallpaper and William Morris prints.

to Pizza Express in 2002. Then in 2008, a proposed relaunch got caught in

At night, with the curtains drawn and the lights lowered, the champagne

the teeth of the recession and it looked like the storied history of Kettners

bar feels truly decadent. And the Jacobean Suite, with its discreet private

might be drawing to a close. But now, Soho House Group has relaunched

entrance on Greek Street, remains just the sort of place where secret trysts

the property as Kettners Townhouse – a restaurant and champagne bar

might still occur to this day.

with 33 guestrooms.

The restaurant has effectively been returned to its Gallic roots, with a

www.kettnerstownhouse.com

IN A BITE Covers: 68 (restaurant), 34 (piano bar), 40 (champagne bar) • Owner: Soho House UK • Interior Design: IHDB • Executive Chef: Jackson Berg • Beverage Manager: Erdem Kayala • Tableware / Glassware / Cutlery: Soho Home • Menu and Uniform Design: Soho House UK

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MENU VEHICLES DESIGNED AND CRAFTED TO FIT ANY SPACE

WWW.ABC-PORTFOLIO.COM

STARTERS

Photography: © Lauren Rubinstein

L27 The Westin Nashville

Perched atop The Westin Nashville in the heart of the downtown district,

watchful eye of Head Chef Jake Strang, has been bolstered with the addition

L27 has undergone a major revamp overseen by interior design firm Pierce

of on-trend snacks such as mashed avocado with feta cheese, olive oil and

& Ward to create a flexible venue that satisfies customer needs throughout

warm pitta bread, and shareable plates like lobster rolls with tarragon

the day. Nashville’s highest rooftop lounge comprises a contemporary

mayo, fried leek and chips. And the drinks list features several new

indoor space and outdoor poolside terrace on the 27th floor, as well as

cocktails including Cucumber Lemon Julep (Square One Cucumber vodka,

a more intimate area suitable for private parties up above, all offering

raw sugar, lemon and mint) and Bee Sting (a jalapeno-infused reposado

spectacular views over the city.

tequila) alongside classics such as the negroni, daiquiri and margarita.

L27’s design highlights include a stylish wraparound bar, colourful

The understated dinnerware and glassware used at L27 comes courtesy

mosaic tile flooring, leather banquettes, velvet couches, round copper

of Steelite, with cutlery from Oneida. Meanwhile, the tables are decorated

tables, a glass-enclosed pool, chic cabanas, vintage wall coverings and Art

by Mackes Design Group and the table linen is by Mount Vernon Mills.

Deco chandeliers. As the sun goes down, soft ambient lighting is introduced

When The Westin Nashville first opened its doors in October 2016, the

to ease the transition from relaxed lounge to sophisticated bar-restaurant.

towering 453-key hotel proved that Tennessee’s capital city was very much

The venue also serves as an informal event space, hosting activities such as

open for business. By revamping L27, Marriott International is reaffirming

concerts and barbecues that help draw in the crowds throughout the week.

its desire to hit all the right notes in Music City.

Alongside the design changes, the F&B offering has been refreshed to encourage customers to prolong their visits. The food menu, under the

www.l27nashville.com

IN A BITE Owner: Castlerock Asset Management • Interior Design: Pierce & Ward • Head Chef: Jake Strang • Tableware: Steelite • Cutlery: Oneida • Glassware: Steelite • Table Decoration: Mackes Design Group • Table Linen: Mount Vernon Mills • Graphic Design: Honor Creative • Uniform Design: Top Hat NYC

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Photography: © Paul Winch-Furness

Rüya Grosvenor House, London

Following the success of Rüya in Dubai, the brand has now launched

flavours on show across the Anatolian peninsula, comprising signature

another establishment, with a high-profile opening in JW Marriott’s

cocktails such as Black Sea, made with rye whiskey, cognac, vermouth,

Grosvenor House in London. Inspired by second-generation restaurateur

raisins, cinnamon and bitters, as well as a selection of raki, the anise-

Umut Özkanca’s Istanbul heritage, Rüya London seeks to offer diners a

scented national spirit of Turkey.

true taste of Anatolia.

Designed by London-based multidisciplinary firm Conran + Partners,

Headed up by Executive Chef Colin Clague – formerly of Zuma London

the restaurant has 110 covers and features a private dining room and

and Caprice Holdings – the restaurant is the result of a collaboration with

lounge, whilst the chef’s table sits adjacent to an open kitchen finished

Doğus Restaurant Entertainment and Management Group, and serves

with custom-designed Turkish tiling. “Rüya’s enticing concept fuses a

signature dishes such as 24-hour slow-cooked short rib with chilli BBQ

vibrant restaurant and bar experience together with décor, menu and an

glaze and spiced Konya chickpea puree; grilled octopus with black eyed

ambiance taking inspiration from Anatolian roots,” says Özkanca. “We

beans and apple vinaigrette; and two cheese pide with slow-cooked egg.

have taken authentic traditions, which I retain a deep personal connection

“Umut’s father, Rasim Özkanca, has been an essential influence in the

to, and interpreted modern details for the sophisticated London audience.

menu creation,” notes Clague. “He has 50 years of experience in the

We are excited to provide memorable experiences for our guests and

restaurant business and he’s been invaluable. All the recipes are in his

welcome everyone to discover our fantastic concept in London.”

head, and I am thrilled to be creating and sharing these special dishes.”

Likewise, Rüya’s beverage programme traverses the full range of

www.ruyalondon.com

IN A BITE Covers: 110 • Owner: Umut Özkanca • Operator: Marriott International • Interior Design: Conran + Partners • Executive Chef: Colin Clague • Group Head Pastry Chef: Liz Stevenson-Hocks • General Manager: Martin Renshaw • Bar Manager: Francesco Medici • Head Sommelier: Lorenzo Abussi

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Culinary creation by Chef Davy Tissot - Photo: N. Villion

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Join us on a journey to imagine how the tables of tomorrow could be.

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24/08/2018 11:24:19

Hotel Pacai Vilnius

Words: Heleri Rande

S

et in the centre of Lithuania’s capital city, Hotel Pacai is the first Design Hotels-affiliated property in the Baltic region, boasting 104 guestrooms and a trio of eagerly awaited F&B spaces in a sensitively restored Baroque palace.

Four interconnected historic buildings have been transformed by local architect Saulius Mikštas of Forma while interiors have been designed by Lithuanian studio Yes Design, preserving many original features such as frescoes, statues and the impressive façade along the way. As for the hotel’s distinctive name, it pays homage to the Pacai family, which relinquished ownership in 1831, although the buildings have only belonged to the current proprietor since 2012.

The three F&B spaces – Lithuanian fine-dining restaurant Nineteen18, contemporary brasserie 14 Horses and lounge bar Sofija – are all entrusted to Nordic Food Republic and take inspiration from the location’s Baltic heritage, albeit with distinct Scandinavian overtones. With minimalist design aspects and crockery from the

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A selection of dishes from 14 Horses © Robertas Daskeviçius

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Nineteen18 © Giedrė Rozmanaitė

likes of Bent Brandt, the Danish influence cannot be missed in a move

spaghetti with hay foam and blackcurrant wood oil puts a very different

that clearly speaks to the collective strength of the operating team in

spin on an ingredient that has been at the heart of the region’s cuisine

which pioneering Danish food entrepreneur Claus Meyer of Noma fame

for centuries.

is a partner.

At Nineteen18, Head Chef Matas Paulinas is more than capable of fusing together different influences in his menus, having grown up

celebrating the 100th anniversary of its 1918 declaration of independence.

in the rougher neighbourhoods of Kaunas in Lithuania before criss-

“Lithuanian cuisine does not exist as of now, but we are very curious

crossing the map to learn his craft. From making sushi in Lithuania and

to find it,” asserts Paulinas. The hope is that what they are doing today

Monaco to opening hotel restaurants in Dubai – not to mention hopping

is effectively laying the groundwork for future generations, with the

over to Norway, running a food truck in Copenhagen and interning

ultimate dream being that the hotel will be able to celebrate the 100th

at Noma – this dynamic young character already has an impressive

anniversary of the development of a recognisably Lithuanian culinary

CV. He has spent the better part of this year researching his country’s

tradition in 2118.

remarkable diversity to understand the many differences that exist in

058

The restaurant’s name cleverly reflects the importance that the team places on the country’s storied history; Lithuania is currently

The menus at 14 Horses and Sofija Bar, meanwhile, are overseen by

terms of lifestyle and culture, although he freely admits that the process

chef Andrius Kubilius. Adhering to the same principals of seasonality and

has barely begun really. “Only when you understand the clear picture of

quality of ingredients as Nineteen18, the all-day brasserie offers comfort

the regions can you compare them and start telling the story through

food from the region, albeit with several usual suspects added to the

food,” he explains.

menu to keep less adventurous hotel guests happy too. Nevertheless,

On the opening menu, Paulinas and his team have tried to showcase

creative dishes such as wild forest mushroom broth, buckwheat risotto

all of their learnings so far. “The most inspiring thing is the ingredient

and Curonian Spit pike-perch in a fennel-watercress emulsion speak to

itself, the undiscovered flavours for example,” he explains. “As soon as

the chef’s wish to display exciting flavours in a local setting. “I really

you unlock a new flavour, that’s it – you get the goosebumps and all

want the guest to feel the happiness in the food,” reveals Kubilius. “So

these crazy ideas.” Rye bread, a staple in the region, is baked in maple

we use traditional products with a modern approach to them.” Housed

leaves in order to prevent the sides from burning, while the potato

in what used to be the stables belonging to the Pacai Palace, the venue’s

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© Robertas Daskevicius

name reflects the former owners’ wealth, as 14 horses was the amount

chefs working together with all the farmers.” The seeds for such thinking

required to show you were a noble family.

came from the culinary revolution that began in Denmark in the early

The adjacent Sofija Bar also owes its name to the history books.

2000s spearheaded by Claus Meyer, instigator of the New Nordic Food

The venue takes cues from Countess Sofija Tyzenhauzaite, who threw

Manifesto and co-founder of the ground-breaking Noma restaurant in

a number of legendary parties here and was famously close to both

Copenhagen. “First of all, we decided to explore whether it was possible

Russian Tsar Alexander I and French Emperor Napoleon. Effortlessly

to make a restaurant relying 100% on things grown in Scandinavia and

channelling the charisma of such illustrious historic figures, the

the Arctic,” recalls Meyer. “The other important thing we did was to ask

modern-day bar is the perfect place to sample some fine creations by

ourselves, what are the pillars for a food culture in 2003 to be admired

Head Bartender Mantas Pieža, accompanied by a selection of locally

worldwide? What do we want to be defined by in 100 years?”

inspired street-food snacks.

Thinking ahead to the future and how to better manage the supply

With such visionary leadership in place, Hotel Pacai’s F&B venues are clearly more than just the sum of their parts, benefitting hugely

chain for all three venues, as well as Vilnius’ many other restaurants,

from their association with a much broader culinary philosophy. There

the CEO of Nordic Food Republic Niels-Peter Pretzmann recently started

may just be a gastronomic storm brewing up in Lithuania’s perennially

another project with Danish investors called Farmers Circle. A 900-acre

underrated capital city. As Meyer puts it, “I think that Eastern Europe is

farm near the capital, the initiative already provides ingredients to many

where the next wave of undiscovered culinary food culture revolutions

local chefs and the long-term goal is to become as self-sufficient as

could come from.”

possible. “There is so much untouched nature in this region that should be utilised for farming purposes,” remarks Pretzmann. “I love to see

www.hotelpacai.com

IN A BITE Covers: 27 (Nineteen18), 60 (14 Horses), 40 (Sofija Bar) • Operator: Nordic Food Republic • Architecture: Forma • Interior Design: Yes Design Head Chefs: Matas Paulinas, Andrius Kubilius • Head Sommelier: Silvija Umaraitė • Head Bartender: Mantas Pieža • Dinnerware: Bent Brandt, K.H. Wurtz, Magdalena Kałuźna • Cutlery: Studio William, Mepra • Glassware and Barware: Riedel, Sangaida • Table Decoration and Table Linen: ForHoreca, Odos Gaminiai • Menu and Graphic Design: Old Rabbit Design Studio

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Laurent at Café Royal Hotel Café Royal, London

Words: Richard Frost • Photography: Courtesy of Hotel Café Royal

E

ver since French wine merchant Daniel Nicholas Thévenon first opened a restaurant under the Café Royal name in 1865, this well-located site on London’s Regent Street has been synonymous with quality food and drink. At one point, the

venue was reputed to have the greatest wine cellar in the world, and welcomed a veritable who’s who of celebrities from Rudyard Kipling, Arthur Conan Doyle and H.G. Wells to Winston Churchill, Muhammad Ali and Elizabeth Taylor. Café Royal closed its doors for the final time in 2008 but the name lives on thanks to The Set Hotels, which spared no expense transforming it into Hotel Café Royal, an impressive 160room property that launched in 2012.

Given this enviable history, it should perhaps come as no surprise that the hotel is very much putting F&B centrestage with the launch of a new restaurant by Laurent Tourondel. The French-born chef actually worked at Café Royal in his formative years but is now best known in the US, where he has a string of venues across New York as well as in The Ritz-Carlton properties in Charlotte and San Juan, and The Betsy South Beach in Miami. Surprisingly, he has never before had a restaurant in Europe.

The new 110-cover venue, Laurent at Café Royal, is certainly a significant statement of intent and it’s clear from the off that the partnership between the hotel, Tourondel and architect and designer Piero Lissoni of Lissoni Associati has gone out of its way to marry new and old. “I tried to maintain an open dialogue between myself, a contemporary architect, and the historic building and cultures of the city,” says Lissoni. “I endeavoured to avoid any conflict with the building’s history but have instead sought a dialogue.”

Upon entering the first-floor restaurant, guests are immediately

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presented with expansive views across the kitchen where they can watch

restaurant serves popovers (crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside)

a team led by Head Chef Gabriel Belmonte preparing meat, fish and

at the beginning of lunches and dinners. “The popover is always one of

vegetables on a traditional parrilla grill. Immediately on the left is a cosy

my signature dishes given that it is present across my restaurants,” says

sushi bar, while the kitchen sits between the two main dining spaces,

Tourondel. “It is my own version of a Yorkshire pudding. It is made with

both of which feature a restrained colour palette of dark brown, grey and

two different types of cheese – Cheddar and Gouda – and we serve it

bronze. The first is a self-contained room with a towering backbar at

with warm butter in place of bread at the start of the meal.”

one end and a private dining table at the other; it’s proving popular with

to the mix; diners can try lighter sashimi, sushi and raw fish dishes

light flooding in from Regent Street. The second, which welcomes

like Kamchatka king crab nigiri poached in lime butter with British

plenty of dinner guests, overlooks the hotel’s new ground-floor lobby,

wasabi and golden Oscietra caviar. The dessert menu continues the

with seating around the outside and a 17-foot Murano glass chandelier

innovative theme with creations such as a rich milk chocolate peanut

weighing more than 350 kilogrammes by Vistosi in the centre. This

butter croquant with melt-in-the-mouth banana ice cream, and coconut

chandelier is a key part of the overall design vision for Lissoni, who

meringue and wild strawberries with orange butter and passion fruit.

explains that the “minimalist yet opulent piece will give a sense of space

Each menu item is presented on stylish dinnerware by Goodfellows,

and glamour that marries the building’s gilded past with its patrons’

which worked closely with Tourondel to achieve the desired effect.

contemporary lifestyles”.

Earthy tones of cream, charcoal and green were chosen to complement

The parrilla grill exerts a strong influence over the lunch and dinner menus, with diners able to choose from umami-rich steaks and

064

The new sushi bar, meanwhile, adds a completely different element

breakfast and lunch guests in particular, helped no doubt by the natural

the dishes and interiors, including a combination of matte and glossy finishes alongside oak wooden boards with brass accent trims.

spatchcocked poussin ‘diablo’ (a real favourite of the chef, served with a

The food is supported by an extensive wine list overseen by Head

vinegar-based sauce, juicy cherry peppers and tarragon leaves), as well

Sommelier Sam Heathcote which, inspired by Café Royal’s oenological

as seafood dishes such as king prawns, Dover sole and swordfish, and

history, has a particular emphasis on French producers. And the bar,

vegetarian items like cauliflower couscous with za’atar-roasted carrots,

headed up by Bar Manager Robert Judd, offers a range of classic cocktails

charred aubergine purée, currants, almonds and harissa yoghurt. And in

as well as beer and sake options that pair well with Tourondel’s cuisine.

an interesting move inspired by Tourondel’s New York experiences, the

As an all-day dining concept, Laurent at Café Royal aims to attract

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Spicy & Crispy Shrimp Sushi

regular customers with an approach that is equal parts relaxed and

However, Hotel Café Royal has no plans to rest on its laurels and is

refined. The kitchen is given all of the tools necessary in order to deliver

instead pressing ahead with another exciting F&B project. Pastry chef

a consistently excellent dining experience, not least because it works

Albert Adrià, who helped turn Catalonia’s El Bulli into the world’s

independently from the rest of the hotel, with staff not expected to

best restaurant in a legendary partnership with his brother Ferran and

participate in conference and banqueting or room service. This also

restaurateur Juli Soler, has chosen the hotel to host his first permanent

creates a unique selling point, since gastronomes know that the only

site outside Spain. Cakes & Bubbles will replace European café Papillon

way to experience Tourondel’s cuisine for themselves is by booking into

with a concept built around selling desserts such as cheesecake,

the restaurant proper.

fruitcake and pastries, alongside sparkling wines from the Champagne

The total cost of developing Laurent at Café Royal and the lobby space – along with a new first-floor bar called Ziggy’s that pays homage to

region and beyond.

Due to open in November 2018, the new venture will further

former Café Royal patron David Bowie – was £5m, but the hotel is in no

strengthen a hotel F&B offering that already includes Laurent at

doubt that this is money well spent given the overwhelmingly positive

Café Royal, Ziggy’s, the Green Bar and the Oscar Wilde Lounge – a

feedback received from guests so far. For his part, Tourondel is delighted

plush afternoon tea destination named after the Irish playwright who

with the look and feel of the first European venue to bear his name.

regularly dined here. Each venue offers a unique experience to guests;

“The project has exceeded my expectations,” he reveals. “The design,

taken together, they ensure Café Royal’s reputation for quality food and

outstanding kitchen and front-of-house teams along with ownership

drink will live on for many years to come.

have worked together to transform the space into a fantastic and unique dining destination.”

www.hotelcaferoyal.com

IN A BITE Covers: 110 • Owner: The Set Hotels • Architecture / Interior Design: Lissoni Associati • Executive Chef: Laurent Tourondel • Head Chef: Gabriel Belmonte • F&B Manager: Kerry O’Connor • Head Bartender: Robert Judd • Head Sommelier: Sam Heathcote • Restaurant General Manager: Dinos Tagkalos • Dinnerware / Serveware: Goodfellows • Cutlery: Goodfellows, William Edwards, Merlin Buffet Systems, W. Wright, Heritage, Sambonet, La Tavola • Glassware: Luigi Bormioli, La Porcellana, Ce-Ces, John Jenkins, Urban Bar, Ascot Wholesale • Graphic Design / Branding: Zoo Communications • Uniform Design: HEMYCA

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Magic Hour Rooftop Bar & Lounge Moxy Times Square, New York

Words: Catherine Martin • Photography: © Warren Jagger

R

ooftop bars are ten-a-penny in New York these

business very well, we realise that distribution is critical,”

days with each new addition to the skyline bidding

explains Mitchell Hochberg, President of Lightstone.

to outdo its competitors through the promise of

“Getting people to come to a hotel is very competitive,

spectacular views and creative cocktails.

especially in the lifestyle space, so we felt we needed a

There’s one newcomer however that has undoubtedly

captured the attention of the market, not only for its size,

partner that had the ability to attract guests.”

Lightstone had already partnered with Marriott

but for its playful concept. Located on the 18th floor of

International on a number of its other developments, and

Moxy Times Square – the first of five Moxy hotels planned

following initial discussions, set about bringing Moxy to

for New York City – Magic Hour Rooftop Bar & Lounge is

the city. At the time, the brand portfolio didn’t reach far

designed to disrupt, provoke and entertain, and has already

beyond its inaugural property at Milan Malpensa Airport,

made waves having scooped an AHEAD award earlier this

and although the concept was a good fit for Lightstone,

year, beating off stiff competition from popular nightspots

the consensus was that some components required further

across the Americas.

development. “It had the small rooms that were cleverly

The hotel itself opened in September 2017 and comes

designed, but it didn’t have the food and beverage and

from Lightstone, a privately held real estate firm with a

other amenities we were looking for,” continues Hochberg.

portfolio of 3,800 keys. Having spent many years evaluating

“So we said to them, if you let us work with the brand and

the New York market, the company identified a need for

develop it for a more urban environment, we think it could

affordable, micro-format lifestyle hotels with smartly

be very appealing.”

designed guestrooms coupled with socially activated public spaces, but didn’t want to go it alone. “Knowing the

And so they did. In bringing Moxy Times Square to life, Lightstone assembled a team of collaborators based on their

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areas of expertise: Stonehill Taylor relocated the entrance and added a

Shawn Sullivan, Partner, Rockwell Group. “It was a unique opportunity

double-height atrium for an enhanced sense of arrival; Yabu Pushelberg

to design an array of spaces suitable for both the guests and the

designed the 612 guestrooms and second-floor public spaces; Tao Group

thousands of people walking by outside, anyone coming or going from

created the F&B programme; and Rockwell Group was brought in to

a show and people who work in the area. We really feel like it’s a unique

design the restaurant and bar spaces.

experience that didn’t exist before in the neighbourhood.”

The F&B offer includes Legasea, a 185-seat seafood brasserie helmed

an experience in itself and typical of Rockwell’s theatrical aesthetic.

spot; and Magic Hour Rooftop Bar & Lounge, the hotel’s crowning

“We developed a labyrinth-inspired arrival experience that’s dark and

glory. All are operated by Tao Group, which is behind some of the most

mysterious,” Sullivan continues. “Guests enter through an overscaled

successful food, beverage and nightlife entertainment venues in the US,

wrought-iron entry gate with neon signage and then continue through

including Marquee and Lavo.

a tent-like fabric tunnel animated by colourful marquee light bulbs with

At Moxy Times Square, Tao Group opted to establish an entirely new

a hypnotic black-and-white swirl at the end. From there, they enter a

concept, seeking to capitalise on the energy of its location and create a

small stage door, behind which is a ticketing area with mirror screens

true destination bar. Spanning 10,000ft2, Magic Hour is New York City’s

and vanity lights, evoking a backstage dressing room. A dedicated

largest all-season hotel rooftop bar; almost within touching distance of

elevator then takes them to a dark lobby with a giant custom funhouse

the Empire State Building, it offers monumental views of the skyline,

mirror.”

and the interiors – billed as an ‘urban amusement park’ – are equally eye-catching.

“The hotel is located in a lively area between Times Square and

070

With its own separate street entrance, the journey to the rooftop is

by Executive Chef Jason Hall; Egghead, a street-side all-day breakfast

Inside, the bar is split into five unique environments, each catering to a different clientele. “We worked with Tao Group and Lightstone to create a series of fun and coherent spaces, not just a sequence of

Madison Square Garden, so we wanted to create a destination that

formalised rituals,” confirms Sullivan. “Ultimately, we conceived the

responds to the rhythm and flow of the neighbourhood,” explains

rooftop as a modern reinterpretation of classic amusement parks. Magic

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Hour features multiple bars and seating areas, each with a distinct vibe

designed by Tao Group, that, instead of windmills, has statuettes of

and design sensibility. It really feels like a place of discovery.”

animals in flirty poses, one blindfolded, another pole-dancing.

The two outdoor spaces, covered by a retractable roof in the cooler

The menu is equally wondrous with modern takes on fairground

months, are markedly different. On the east side, overlooking the Empire

classics such as Lobster Rolls, Disco Waffle Fries and Ice Cream

State Building, Rockwell Group has opted for an elegant garden-party

Sandwiches, along with a list of decadent cocktails. And Tao has pulled

setting, with plush armchairs and festoon lighting. The west meanwhile,

out all the stops with its sharing cocktails, which include High Octane –

is overtly carnival-esque, featuring an antique rotating carousel and

a heady concoction of Don Julio Blanco Tequila, Caramelised Pineapple

blown glass balloon pendants floating above the bar. Those who explore

and Jalapeno Syrup served in a fanciful fuel pump; and the US$250 Disco

further are rewarded with the Elephant Room, a cosy lounge designed in

Ball For All – a potent Absolut Elyx Bajan Punch that arrives at the table

an urban-industrial style, with wire mesh panels riveted to the ceiling

in a glittering cocktail ball.

and walls alongside materials such as wood, metal and leather.

Being Moxy – a brand that doesn’t like to take itself too seriously

Perhaps the cheekiest addition to the menu is the option to book one of the $99 Crashpads. It was decided that the hotel’s smallest rooms

– there are unexpected moments that have been a huge hit on social

were too miniscule to sell as standard, so they appear on Magic Hour’s

media. The gallery-like entrance hall features whimsical topiary

menu for those who have had a few too many rounds on the carousel.

animals in suggestive positions, and tucked into a corner is the hotel’s most Instagrammed feature. Foreplay is a miniature putt-putt course

www.magichourny.com

IN A BITE Owner: Lightstone • Operator: Marriott International (hotel), Tao Group (F&B) • Architecture: Stonehill Taylor • Interior Design: Rockwell Group (F&B), Yabu Pushelberg (guestrooms and public spaces) • Main Contractor: C&A Seneca Construction • Executive Chef: Jason Hall • Director of F&B: Evan Puchalsky Beverage Manager: Nikki McCutcheon • Dinnerware: Robert Gordon, Serrax • Glassware: Serrax • Buffetware: Steelite • Menu Design: Gregory Homs

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Silent Brass

Photograph: Jens Bรถsenberg

Le Royal Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa, Épernay

Words: Caroline Morrish • Photography: © Mr Tripper

L

e Royal, at the recently refurbished Royal Champagne

saying: “We wanted to create a building that has a respect for

Hotel & Spa, takes the concept of the champagne dinner

local materials and which embraces nature.” As such, locally

to the next level. Nestled amongst the historic vineyards

quarried quartz stone has been used in construction of the

of Épernay, the stunning destination is defined by the

modernist, amphitheatre-style structure, which has sweeping

sparkling wine, which flows and fizzes through every aspect of the

glazed façades, with the huge windows making the most of the

operation from design to food and drink.

beautiful panorama across the vineyards below. The grapevines

Set between the villages of Champillon and Hautvillers

subtle plant motifs woven throughout the scheme and a colour

overlooking the vineyards of Moët & Chandon, the hotel’s

palette that moves through various champagne tones from rosé

prestigious and picturesque setting was what first attracted

to gold. Natural materials such as oak and stone have been used

Boston-based operator Champagne Hospitality Group to the

to add softness and warmth to what is otherwise a very sharp and

project. With champagne house Leclerc Briant and luxury resort

minimalist look.

Le Barthelemey in St. Barts already in its portfolio, the group

Le Royal is the hotel’s signature restaurant, headed up by

acquired the venue in 2014 and decided that a new, wholly

Michelin-starred chef Jean-Denis Rieubland. Set in the older wing

contemporary approach was needed in order to make the most of

of the building, the 50-cover dining room brings together the

the property’s potential. Reims-based architect Giovanni Pace was

heritage of the site with luxurious, contemporary stylings. The

brought on-board to undertake a total renovation of the site. The

lofty, gold-leaf ceiling is illuminated by 36 spherical blown amber

large-scale works have taken four years to complete, with a vast

glass lights, while the walls are illustrated with classic paintings

100,000ft2 extension added to the original 19th century post-house

of the women in Napoleon’s life (as the French leader is said to

building that is home to a new Biologique Recherche spa, two

have stopped off at the original coaching house in the late 1800s),

restaurants, event spaces and 49 guestrooms.

all of which gives the space an art-gallery feel. Stepping into the

The architect took the location as inspiration for the design,

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themselves are also referenced in the design inside the hotel, with

(the birthplace of Dom Pérignon and champagne itself), and

pristine stainless steel kitchen, there is a chef’s table, which has

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a handful of seats available for reservation only. Here, guests can enjoy

berries, courgettes, tomatoes, root vegetables and seasonal greens,

a specially curated menu that changes with each service, and watch the

which all go to the hotel’s kitchen. A man of many talents, he also keeps

team working with military precision to prepare dishes.

bee hives that supply the hotel with its own fragrant signature honey,

When developing the food offering, understanding the produce

guests are offered the chance to visit the allotment to chat to him and

met with local wine producers, visiting their cellars to get a rounded

see first-hand where the restaurant’s food comes from.

understanding of the viticulture and heritage. “The menu is my personal

The cooking at Le Royal is light and refined and the menu concise,

interpretation of the champagne terroir,” he explains. “I have tried to

offering a handful of options from ‘ocean side’ and ‘terroir’. Rieubland

highlight the products of the region, and honour the produce, whilst

describes his dishes as “preserving French know-how whilst infusing

infusing it with a sunny freshness.” This has meant not only putting

the food with a contemporary touch”, and guests can expect classic

the best champagnes onto the drinks menu, but also working closely

French cuisine that is unflinchingly seasonal but infused with

with regional producers to source the most interesting ingredients,

interesting world flavours and creative twists. Standout choices include

such as goat’s cheese from the nearby Forest of Argonne, lamb from

the turbot with seaweed butter, artichokes, carrots and chervil and veal

the Pyrenees and fresh fish from Brittany. The chef makes a point of

sweetbread with chorizo, fricassée of girolles, caramelised pearl onions

establishing first-person relationships with all of his suppliers, so what

and sherry. These delicious creations are served on dinnerware by

you find on your plate is produced by someone who is a friend of the

Maison Fragile, accompanied by cutlery from Christofle, glassware from

hotel. “We work with passionate people and have a strong dialogue with

Zalto and stylish table decorations by LSA.

them, as well as a shared pride in what we create,” says the chef.

This commitment to using the freshest local ingredients has been

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and chickens that provide eggs all year round. In the spirit of inclusion,

of the region was the starting point for the menu. Rieubland first

Le Bellevue is the more relaxed sister restaurant to Le Royal. Looking down over the Marne Valley, light floods in through expansive windows

taken even further, with the chef establishing his own kitchen garden.

and reflects off more than a thousand crystal pendants that decorate

Ten minutes from the hotel in the tiny town of Avenay-Val-d’Or, the

the ceiling. On a sunny day, this gives the room an effervescent quality,

20-acre patch is run by Arthur, the son of a local winegrower, who takes

which is amplified by the warm wine-colour scheme on the walls. The

a biodynamic approach to his growing. He cultivates a variety of herbs,

restaurant opens out onto a large, impressive terrace, which is the

The oldest Wine House in Champagne: Aÿ 1584

SUPPER_GOSSET GBN PIANO_10032018.indd 1

15/03/2018 11:12

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perfect spot to sit and enjoy the view with an afternoon apéritif served

house) to smaller names. Tutored tastings are offered in the Salon Fines

from Le Bellevue Bar. The drinks menu is the work of mixologist Aude

Bulles, which is fitted out with elevated tables and affords views straight

Clément, who has created a cocktail list that brings together French

down into the champagne cellar bellow. Guests are invited to spend an

classics and drinks with a more global influence, such as the Creole

hour or two exploring the hotel’s best bottles with sommelier Daniel

Punch with pineapple and guava and the Italian-influenced Blow

Pires, as well as touring the cellars. The property also prides itself on

Coffee with gin, ristretto coffee and vanilla liqueur. But it is, of course,

its links with the surrounding vineyards and arranges bespoke tours at

champagne that has top billing, with the signature French 75 bringing

a range of champagne houses in the region. “We always try and include

together a delicious mix of gin, St. Germain liqueur, lemon, Cointreau

both one larger house, and a smaller producer that guests may not know

and champagne. Meanwhile, the food seeks to showcase the “richness

in our visit,” explains Pires. There is even the option to take part in

of the soil” and is a little more (down to) earthy than at Le Royal. The

harvesting the grapes at the group’s Leclerc Briant vineyard, enjoy lunch

simple menu of pasta, meat and vegetables includes the likes of Reims

with the winemakers, and taste the pure pressed juice as well as the

ham with vinegar-soaked chantarelles and lamb’s lettuce, featuring

finished champagne.

vegetables from Arthur’s garden, naturally. Everything is still executed

It is clear that the Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa not only celebrates

in an elegant fashion, but there is a touch of light-heartedness here

sparkling wine, but goes to great lengths to share its enthusiasm and

and there, especially in ‘ice cream corner’ where the signature Le Royal

passion for the subject. The end result is that however guests choose to

ice with champagne sorbet, raspberries, hibiscus and rose biscuit is

spend their stay, they are sure to leave feeling as enamoured with the

something of a showstopper.

bubbly stuff as their hosts.

More than 200 types of champagne are available at the hotel, from large well-known brands such as Gosset (the region’s oldest champagne

www.royalchampagne.com

IN A BITE Covers: 50 (Le Royal), 60 (Le Bellevue) • Owner: Champagne Hospitality Group • Architecture: Giovanni Pace • Interior Design: Sybille de Margerie Head Chef: Jean-Denis Rieubland • F&B Manager: Grégory Charlier (Le Royal), Florent Chauveau (Le Bellevue) • Head Sommelier: Daniel Pires • Dinnerware: Maison Fragile x Nicolas Ouchenir • Cutlery: Christofle • Glassware: Zalto • Table Decoration: LSA • Table Linen: Quagliotti • Menu Design: Carré Basset

078

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Rum baba bouchon with Chantilly cream

Boiled egg with soldiers

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Brasserie Prince by Alain Roux The Balmoral, Edinburgh

Words: Richard Frost • Photography: Courtesy of Rocco Forte Hotels

B

rasserie Prince unites two of the world’s top hospitality

the time had come to replace the hotel’s other venues – the

dynasties in a common goal: to bring the classic

Celtic-inspired Hadrian’s Brasserie and contemporary cocktail

French brasserie into the 21st century. On one side is

destination The Balmoral Bar – with something new.

the Roux family, who have consistently raised the bar

“This was the final piece of the puzzle,” she says. “We had

at celebrated venues like The Waterside Inn in Bray and Le

redone Palm Court, reopened Scotch, refreshed Number One

Gavroche in London (the former being the only restaurant

and revamped the suites and rooms, so this was the last space

outside France to retain three Michelin stars for more than

that felt the same as when we started. The old brasserie wasn’t

30 years). On the other is the Forte family, who rose to

very well conceived and, while we were keen to stick with the

prominence leading Forte Group before losing control of the

brasserie direction, we wanted to do it right.”

hotel and restaurant giant in a £4 billion takeover by Granada

From the beginning, Forte’s first choice to run this new

in 1996; the dynasty subsequently bounced back by launching a

brasserie was Alain Roux, Chef-Patron of The Waterside Inn,

new luxury hotel company, snapping up The Balmoral in 1997

and his father Michel, a culinary legend whose passion for

and steadily growing the portfolio ever since.

food remains as strong as ever at the age of 77. The reason

The Balmoral, now one of 11 Rocco Forte Hotels sites

was partly personal – The Waterside Inn is where she goes to

across Europe and the Middle East, occupies a special place

celebrate special occasions – and partly professional, since she

in Scottish hearts. Formerly the North British Station Hotel,

has long admired the way they have grown the family business

the property’s iconic clock tower looms large over the city’s

and revolutionised the UK restaurant scene. For Roux père et

main train station, and its guests have included everyone from

fils, meanwhile, the chance to revive classic French brasserie

Sophia Loren and Sir Paul McCartney to Harold Wilson and the

fare proved impossible to resist.

Queen Mother. Its F&B options are similarly varied, ranging

“We’re trying to bring back authentic, simple food,”

from Jeff Bland’s Michelin-starred fine-dining restaurant

explains Michel. “This isn’t about fine dining,” agrees Alain.

Number One and afternoon-tea lounge Palm Court to signature

“It’s about good ingredients cooked properly to create tasty

whisky bar Scotch and café-bar The Gallery. But Rocco Forte

food like our parents, grandparents and great-grandparents

Hotels’ Group Director of Food & Beverage Lydia Forte felt

used to eat. What’s strange is that so many of the dishes we

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used to have in the ‘70s and ‘80s have disappeared from restaurants.

of the renowned studio bearing his name, in collaboration with Olga

Back then, you could get a proper classic boeuf bourguignon, blanquette

Polizzi, Rocco Forte Hotels’ Deputy Chairman and Director of Design.

de veau, canard à l’orange or sole meunière in every café, bistro and

This isn’t the first time they have worked together either, with the pair

brasserie, but you just can’t find them anymore.”

having originally teamed up for Villa Kennedy in Frankfurt – Brudnizki’s

All of these feature on Brasserie Prince’s expansive menu, which has

Bar into Brasserie Prince represented a completely different type of

wasn’t involved in the choice of dishes, though on a couple of occasions

challenge however.

I said ‘don’t forget to include that’,” recalls Michel. “I love rabbit, for

“The brief I gave Martin and Olga was that we wanted to unite the

example, and coq au vin.” The result is a seasonally changing menu that

two spaces, restaurant and bar, so that there was a flow between them,”

expertly combines French classics such as a picture-perfect scallops à

recounts Forte. “The motivation was partly that The Balmoral was doing

la Parisienne and rum baba bouchon with quality local produce as in

so many breakfast covers, the old restaurant just couldn’t fit them in;

the delicious Isle of Skye langoustines with cocktail sauce and Scottish

but also that a true brasserie always has its own bar.” The solution is a

rib of beef – served pink, of course. Overseeing the new kitchen, which

much larger venue split into four distinct spaces – lobby, bar, library

offers all-day dining and serves breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days

lounge and restaurant – with 210 covers in total providing plenty of

a week, is personable Head Chef Phil Hickman who was previously Sous

room for the breakfast crowd, although the full dining menu is only

Chef at The Waterside Inn. On this evidence, Hickman is clearly a man

served in the restaurant for now.

well-versed in the Roux culinary philosophy.

Of course, a good brasserie is as much about ambience as

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first ever hotel project. Turning Hadrian’s Brasserie and The Balmoral

been devised by Alain, albeit with input from his father. “I personally

“The addition of the bar and library lounge helps to create a sense of journey and builds up anticipation before entering the main restaurant

alimentation, and at Brasserie Prince nothing has been left to chance in

floor,” explains Brudnizki. “When people go to a restaurant, they don’t

ensuring that the atmosphere lives up to expectations. The £3 million

want to feel rushed, so having a place where you can relax with a drink

renovation project has been designed by Martin Brudnizki, founder

and some nibbles is perfect.” This idea of a journey extends to how

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Michel Roux (left) and Sir Rocco Forte in Brasserie Prince’s library lounge

customers arrive – either via the lobby, a transitional room between the

life as the North British Station Hotel and landscapes, all finished in oil,

hotel reception and the main L-shaped space, or via a dedicated external

pen, ink, and pencil,” he explains.

entrance opening directly onto Edinburgh’s famed main shopping thoroughfare, Princes Street.

Once inside, the different spaces are brought together by a fresh

With Brasserie Prince, Rocco Forte Hotels has evidently chosen its partners wisely to create a new venue with a real sense of identity; a classic French brasserie fit for modern sensibilities that cleverly

colour palette of green, blue and blush pink, which complements

incorporates the very best Scotland has to offer. Make no mistake, this

the timber-panelled walls. Antique mirrors and brass detailing add a

is a totally different proposition to The Waterside Inn, and one that

sophisticated touch, while the mix of banquettes, armchairs, sofas, bar

will doubtless attract a much broader clientele; Brasserie Prince may

stools and dining chairs ensures that seating can be found for every

not accumulate Michelin stars for fun but then it’s not supposed to.

occasion. Forte also asked for “focal points and theatrical moments in

“It’s meant to be a brasserie, it’s meant to be affordable, it’s meant to

the space” and Brudnizki has duly obliged with a retro wraparound bar

be bustling,” concludes Forte. “We want lots of people in here all the

that animates the restaurant and library lounge at either end, as well

time, whether that’s for breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks or drinks.”

as a raised seafood and charcuterie counter, which enables patrons

Given how busy the brasserie has been so far, with hotel residents and

to watch chefs at work up close. And Brudnizki’s first Scottish project

non-guests alike responding enthusiastically since day one, it looks very

draws plenty of inspiration from its setting, a fact most evident in

much like mission accomplished.

the beautiful works of art adorning the walls. “A large selection is by Scottish artists and depicts local scenes, sketches of the hotel’s original

www.roccofortehotels.com

IN A BITE Covers: 210 • Owner: Rocco Forte Hotels • Group Director of F&B: Lydia Forte • Interior Design: Martin Brudnizki Design Studio, Olga Polizzi • Signature Chef: Alain Roux (with input from Michel Roux) • Head Chef: Phil Hickman • Restaurant Manager: Maxime Walkowiak

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SWEETS

Trends and insight into the global foodservice sector

“Chefs now more than ever really need to understand all financial implications when it comes to C&B because with the correct menu planning you can make a lot of money.�

James Knight-Pacheco, Executive Chef of Six Senses Zighy Bay

Beyond Foraging Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania are quietly developing a culinary identity that draws inspiration from the New Nordic Food Movement, but with a distinct Baltic twist.

Words: Heleri Rande

T

he culinary awakening in the post-Soviet Baltic states of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania has been gathering pace for nearly a decade, with predominantly independent restaurants leading the way. But with tourism – and more notably experiential food tourism – on the rise,

hotel restaurants have started to follow suit. The worldwide success of the New Nordic Food Movement has had a notable influence on the trio due to their proximity to the Nordic countries, but there is much more to the current gastronomic revolution than just gathering food from the wild.

In Estonia, on the magical island of Muhu, Pädaste comprises a luxury hotel, restaurant and spa. Dating back to the 15th century, the manor house was

restored and brought back to life by hotelier and restaurateur Martin Breuer in the late 1990s. Many of the region’s leading chefs started in the kitchen of its signature restaurant Alexander, named after Alexander von Buxhoeveden, a former owner of the property.

The focus has always been on rediscovering and reinvigorating the Nordic islands’ cuisine by following five core principles – the coastline terroir of the Baltics, biodiversity of the island, imperfections of nature, local heritage craftsmanship and preservation. This philosophy proved enticing enough for current Chef de Cuisine Stefan Berwanger to make the move from Frankfurt to this tiny island. “The nature here is inspiration enough,” he remarks, “everything we do needs to have relevance and meaning.”

By getting to know the local small farmers and herders on the island, the chef is able to provide an honest food experience. Together with his team and a horticulturist, they pick ingredients from the lavish kitchen garden and improvise a daily three-course menu and nine-course degustation menu from March to October. Dishes such as kohuke, or Estonian cured cheese covered in chocolate and served with dried ants from the garden, and Muhu ostrich tartare are bound to surprise and delight in both their distinctiveness and authenticity. Coupled with the mesmerising silence of the island, it is no wonder that Pädaste gets a high number of repeat guests.

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Scallop and freshwater bream at Hedon Spa & Hotel’s restaurant Raimond in Estonia

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A dish being unveiled at Pädaste on the Estonian island of Muhu

Kannas at Annas Hotel in Latvia

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Vegetable Market at Stage 22 in Grand Hotel Kempinski Riga

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In Pärnu, a 90-minute drive from the capital Tallinn, is a

names from the Old World. The venison tartare served with

stunning seaside property, Hedon Spa & Hotel. The popular

pickled chanterelles and prunes marinated in calvados, and

spa is housed on the premises of restored mudbaths dating

the hay custard dessert with quince and pineapple speak of

back to 1838, whilst the hotel rooms and two restaurants

the resourcefulness of Kristovskis’ cooking. “The rule for

can be found in the adjacent new building. “Here we are all

me is to start with classic flavours and then push and know

about carrying traditions forward, combining the old and

when to stop,” he explains. “I have a list of ideas, I’m just

the new,” explains Sari Sopanen, General Manager.

waiting for the right time.” And so is everyone else who has

Overlooking the sea and sharing a vast terrace in the summer are the two hotel restaurants, Raimond and Akord.

tasted his dishes.

The latest addition to the Latvian hotel dining scene

The former takes its name from a famous local composer

comes from Riga. Right in the centre of the capital, across

and serves up a more refined menu, whilst the latter lets

from the Latvian National Opera House and on the border

the guest create dishes from a cleverly thought-out food

of the Old Town, is Grand Hotel Kempinski Riga. The 141-

card. “As a hotel restaurant, we need to have different

room hotel – designed by Alex Kravetz, founder of the

dining options,” notes Head Chef Marko Lumera. “We were

eponymous UK-based design studio – opened in November

one of the first in the region to have two concepts.”

2017, and the signature rooftop restaurant and bar Stage 22

In the beginning, the culinary ambition was to be

followed in June 2018. The 120-cover restaurant occupies

decidedly Nordic and follow the example of neighbours in

a corner of the top floor and boasts breathtaking views

the north and west, but due to the volatility of getting the

over the capital, which is a real draw for the locals; the

necessary local ingredients on scale, the direction changed

name reflects its proximity to the opera house and the

somewhat. “We now use more foreign suppliers but we are

accompanying number signifies the address.

in no way letting go of the local touch,” explains Lumera.

“For example, I use Norwegian scallops but make the sauce with Estonian craft rhubarb sparkling wine Nudist.”

In addition to a full vegan menu, which is becoming increasingly popular, the kitchen also makes sure that both starters and mains provide a balanced offering from fisherman, farmer, hunter and gardener. Summers are typically booked up well in advance, but there is nothing more satisfying than watching the salty waves wash up

“The rule for me is to start with classic flavours and then push and know when to stop. I have a list of ideas, I’m just waiting for the right time.”

Chef Dzintars Kristovskis of Kannas in Latvia

against the large glass windows on a brisk winter’s day and tasting the results of a variety of pickling, drying and smoking techniques on Lumera’s seasonal menu.

Buried deep in the Latvian forests surrounded by spruces,

Stage 22’s bar menu includes 22 cocktails, of which half

lindens, oak trees, ponds and lakes – and close to the Gauja

are signatures and the other half classics. Interestingly, the

National Park – lies Annas Hotel. With only ten rooms, the

first alcoholic cocktail in the Soviet Union was purportedly

manor house-turned-hotel and spa dates back to the 18th

served in the very same building when it carried the Hotel

century and attracts event crowds as well as foodies keen to

Riga name. The food menu, overseen by Head Chef Edgars

try the constantly changing menu of its restaurant Kannas,

Balodis, has shareable items such as seafood platters,

headed by chef Dzintars Kristovskis.

as well as starters and mains with Nordic influence.

The self-taught chef was discovered by the owners via

Establishing relationships with local farmers for a large city

Instagram and, with less than a year heading the kitchen,

centre hotel is a challenge – bigger operations require a

has already made a big impact on the Baltic food scene.

level of certainty that sets limits to the ingredients that can

“There was no pantry at all when I arrived, no possibility

be used, but that is not holding the team back. The slow-

to make anything so we had to import a lot,” he recounts

cooked Latvian farm sturgeon fillet is a nod to the local

of the rough start. “But now we are planting and I have

whilst the creative dessert Vegetable Market includes items

started a full root cellar. I am collecting things for unknown

from the local market such as beetroot sponge, candied

purposes.” He currently sources lamb, game, dairy and

carrots and sorrel and yoghurt cream.

poultry locally, spends time in the central market in Riga,

Separating out the cuisine of the Baltic states from their

is establishing relationships with nearby farmers and bakes

northern and western neighbours is not an easy task – even

his own bread. But he is not a believer in going all local.

less so for hotel restaurants, where guest expectations

“I was a bit brainwashed by this 100% local movement,”

frequently still define the menu direction. However, the

he reflects. “There is some truth to it, but you have to

fact that this region has accumulated so many different

acknowledge the limits.”

influences throughout history provides each chef with an

This idea of local versus foreign is well reflected on both his menu and the wine list, the latter carrying some big

opportunity to define his or her own path, and be far more than just a simple forager.

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Master of Ceremonies Many hotels are ramping up their conference and banqueting offer, but what does this mean for those tasked with delivering successful functions day after day?

Words: Richard Frost

T

he conference and banqueting (C&B) element of a hotel’s offering might not grab the limelight in the same way as a signature restaurant by a celebrity chef or a rooftop cocktail bar by a master mixologist, yet there are signs that the global hospitality sector is

finally waking up to its true potential.

The latest Lodging Food & Beverage Outlook report by North American

hospitality procurement services giant Avendra shows just how many hotels are splashing the cash on this traditionally undervalued part of the business. It surveyed the purchasing intentions of more than 900 leaders in hotel F&B, of whom 90% were hotel general managers or directors of F&B, and found that 61% plan to invest more resources in event catering over the next few years – more than twice the next most popular answer.

Could it be that the decision-makers within hotel F&B have simply been crunching a few numbers? At the 2018 Hotel Data Conference in Nashville, delegates were given a first look at new STR research based on a survey of 960 hotels across the US spanning the luxury, upper-upscale, upscale and upper-midscale markets. It discovered that these hotels generated revenues per available square foot (RevPAS) of

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USD$0.81 from their catering and banquets spaces in the 12 months ending June 2018, up by 2.9% on the previous year. Veronica Andrews – Director of Digital Data Solutions at STR and a member of the American

focus on F&B from owners and asset managers, and that potentially has

“Chefs now more than ever really need to understand all financial implications when it comes to C&B because with the correct menu planning you can make a lot of money.”

revenue teams looking more in-depth at what is negotiated,” she says.

James Knight-Pacheco, Executive Chef of Six Senses Zighy Bay

Hotel & Lodging Association’s F&B committee – presented the data alongside Hyatt Hotels’ Corporate Director of Events Melissa Milione, and is predicting that the recent growth trend seen in catering and banquets will continue over the next 12 months. “There is an increased

James Knight-Pacheco is someone with first-hand experience of how the market has evolved. The 36-year-old was born in Venezuela and has worked in C&B across the UK and the Middle East, from small boutique boltholes to large corporate hotels, gaining experience from the likes

robust supply chains in place across areas such as food sourcing and

of Raymond Blanc, Gordon Ramsay, Michael Caines and Jason Atherton

tableware to maintain a consistent level of service to clients.

along the way; he is now Executive Chef of Six Senses Zighy Bay on

Another key characteristic of employees that will undoubtedly be

Oman’s Musandam Peninsula. “C&B is a huge business sector, especially

tested to the limit is flexibility. It’s long been common practice for

in the Middle East as there are so many opportunities around weddings,

hotels to offer standardised menus to prospective clients showing what

expos, forums and so on,” he says. “I definitely think the growth of the

food and drink they can provide, but an increasing number of attendees

sector has been a positive development, with more and more operators

now have specific dietary requirements like an intolerance to gluten or

seeing what C&B can do for them financially.”

dairy – or they want healthy options and bespoke menus that reflect

Of course, C&B as a concept actually covers a whole range of different

their personal beliefs or brand ethos. One hotel that has clearly seen

functions, and this is amply demonstrated by Knight-Pacheco’s own

the way the wind is blowing is Park Plaza London Riverbank, which

experiences. As well as overseeing large banquets at established hotels,

recently bolstered its MICE offering with the launch of Brain Food, a

the chef has also worked in more unusual settings – like serving a six-

£15-per-head menu designed to improve focus and productivity; instead

course taster menu to 75 guests on a superyacht on the River Thames,

of confectionery and patisseries, delegates receive dishes made from

or cooking the passing-out dinner for hundreds of officers and cadets at

avocado, cucumber, coconut water, flaxseed, goji berries and Greek

the Royal Military Academy Sandhurst in Surrey, both of which were a

yoghurt. Of course, any moves to overhaul the set menu must always

success despite the huge logistical challenges involved.

be balanced against practical considerations too since, for example, a

This just serves to underline the point that C&B functions can be

cold pasta salad may work fine for a DDR buffet lunch setup whereas

either formal (awards dinners, annual general meetings or state

a hot pasta dish may be unsuitable for a banquet in which the kitchen

banquets to name but three) or informal (like birthdays, graduation

pass is some distance away from the furthest covers. Similarly, an

parties or wedding anniversaries), and take place in a host of

artisanal cheeseboard might be perfect for sharing at informal wedding

environments from meeting rooms and break-out spaces to canteens

anniversaries but a waste of money in formal settings like an annual

and ballrooms. Some of the most common setups see hotels provide Day

general meeting, where something like individual slices of Bakewell tart

Delegate Rate (DDR) conference-goers with a light breakfast followed by

might be both less expensive and better received.

a mid-morning snack and hot beverages, buffet lunch and lastly a mid-

In fact, it’s vital that staff in every department possess strong

afternoon snack and hot beverages; while banquet attendees receive

financial acumen nowadays – including those in the kitchen. Knight-

sit-down meals comprising appetisers, fish courses, mains and sweets

Pacheco, for example, is involved in costing out menus naturally but

followed by the obligatory toasts and coffee. Increasingly, however,

he must also ensure that the operation hits its financial targets, which

informality is the order of the day, with DDR clients keen to prevent

means being aware of aspects such as per-head pricing and payroll

delegates enduring long queues at the buffet counter or awkwardly

costs. “This is a part of the job that they do not mention when you are in

juggling a plate of canapés with their drinks, and banquet guests

college or when you are a commis chef, so it is really interesting to learn

wanting anything but silver service. Boundaries are blurring together

and understand,” says the chef, who has done his bit to educate young

too and hotels are seeing a growing number of requests for live stations

talent by demonstrating and tutoring at Ashburton Cookery School and

– carveries, stir-fry stands and sushi bars – or pop-up streetfood stalls

Exeter College. “Chefs now more than ever really need to understand all

across the board.

financial implications when it comes to C&B because with the correct

The fact that today’s hotels are attracting more business from the different strands of C&B inevitably puts additional pressure on those

menu planning you can make a lot of money.”

The ability to build an effective team capable of delivering menus that

tasked with delivery, from the banquet manager and executive chef

are logistically and financially viable is a skill in itself of course. While

down to the busboys and kitchen porters, at every stage of the process.

larger hotels generally have a core team dedicated to C&B it invariably

The most important quality that an effective C&B team needs to

won’t be big enough to cater for the most demanding functions, while

display from the outset is exceptional forward-planning. Senior

smaller properties may employ precious few specialists in the first place.

management must work together with the sales, operations and kitchen

“Manning is usually a big issue when catering for C&B because you

teams to understand how many functions their properties are capable

will need to pull staff out from various other operations and, if you do

of delivering effectively before taking deposits, ensuring that there are

not have enough, usually agency staff are called in,” explains Knight-

095

Pacheco. “The challenge with agency staff is that you are super-limited

reducing the size of buffet plates by just 10% discouraged guests from

on the amount of time to train them to your standards but, if they aren’t

overfilling, leading to an impressive 20% reduction in food waste.

there, the function won’t go as smoothly as you’d like.” Retaining a core

kitchen teams must make some time after the function ends to jointly

help to inspire the casuals, while interspersing criticism with genuine

review how closely the original plan matched the reality on the ground

words of encouragement throughout long shifts can help to motivate

– rather than immediately switching focus to whatever else is looming

staff with markedly different interests and priorities to all perform to

large in the diary. “It’s basically a debrief of what went well and what

the best of their abilities.

didn’t,” explains Knight-Pacheco. “The truth is, we all need to be on the

It’s also essential that leaders within a C&B team show the courage

ball in order to execute the event as well as possible. There are always

to try something new during the pressure-cooker environment of a

things that happen in any event, whether small or big, that we never

function rather than falling back on the tried-and-tested methods

planned for – so each review is a great learning opportunity to improve

of previous years; nowhere is this more evident than in the matter of

as a team.”

food waste, something of a dirty secret within the sector and one that

096

Last but not least, senior representatives of the sales, operations and

group of experienced staff is crucial here as the example they set will

The fact is that the skills required in catering for C&B are very

has wiped out many a healthy profit margin in the past. One area that

different to those needed for other common hotel F&B activities like

hotels have historically neglected is the necessity for operations staff

running headline-grabbing signature restaurants or cocktail bars.

to confirm final numbers from the client immediately before the event

However, hoteliers that overlook the value of this dynamic market do

– including last-minute drop-outs – and relay this information to the

so at their peril, as evidence is pointing to the fact that it will grow

kitchen to reduce the rate of overproduction. This is one of a number of

significantly in the coming years. “C&B does have a lot of hidden

recommendations in a report by the charity Wrap, entitled Wasting Less

pressures,” admits Knight-Pacheco. “For example, in a restaurant

Food from Banquets, Meetings and Events, which also suggests making

you can have 100 covers spread over two or three hours whereas in

several changes in the kitchen such as supplying individually wrapped

banqueting all 100 covers come in at the same time and they have to go

muffins and biscuits at meetings that can be used again if not required.

out within 45 minutes so it’s a very different operation. In saying that,

Meanwhile, a study by non-profit foundation GreeNudge found that

there is serious profit to be made if it’s executed at the right level.”

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SIGNATURE

Roast Vendée Pigeon Popinjays The Murray, Hong Kong

Inspired by his mother’s recipe for a crowd-pleaser at a traditional family gathering, French chef Didier Quennouelle has created a Roast Vendée Pigeon dish for the rooftop restaurant Popinjays at The Murray in Hong Kong.

The pigeon breast, sourced from the Vendée region of western France, is roasted with duck fat, garlic, thyme, bay leaves and juniper berries, and presented alongside savoy cabbage rolls stuffed with Kalamata olives, blackberries and black anchovies. It is served with beetroot, a jus and a mildly tart blackberry sauce on white plates by Haviland & Co. Quennouelle – who was Executive Sous Chef in the late Joël Robuchon’s restaurant at Hôtel Metropole MonteCarlo prior to joining The Murray – has adapted the classic French dish to the local market by incorporating a distinctive sweet-and-sour dynamic into the flavour profile.

Popinjays launched at Niccolo Hotel’s flagship property in July and takes its name from the cockatoos in the nearby Garden Road, Hong Kong Park and Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens. Its modern European-inspired menu frequently exhibits a distinct Gallic influence in dishes such as foie gras terrine, roast Challans chicken and citrus meringue.

Set within a purpose-built glass pavilion atop the 25-storey Murray Building, the Foster + Partners-designed restaurant can cater for up to 114 guests. www.niccolohotels.com

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SIGNATURE

Aubergine Agnolotti Blakes Restaurant Blakes London Billing itself as the world’s first luxury boutique

confited in extra virgin olive oil and Mediterranean

hotel, Blakes London in affluent South Kensington

herbs. The meal is served on fine bona china by

has been entertaining A-list celebrities, film stars

Heritage Collection, designed especially for Blakes.

and musicians since opening in 1978. Now, the

Other classic Mediterranean dishes to have been

eponymous onsite restaurant hopes to impress its

introduced by Head Chefs Peter del Campo and

guests with a new all-day dining menu of classic

Mariano Russo include swordfish carpaccio with

Mediterranean dishes, which cater to vegetarians

mâche salad and lemon; and hand-dived scallops

and vegans as much as carnivores.

with capers and saffron. The restaurant has also

One of the signature items is the aubergine

brought back several favourites of Blakes London’s

agnolotti, a healthy vegetarian dish inspired by

founder, celebrated designer Anouska Hempel, such

a type of filled pasta originating in the Piedmont

as black cod with courgette flower and miso; and

region of north-west Italy. The homemade fresh

seared tuna loin with ponzu, green-tea noodles and

pasta parcels contain a purée of aubergine roasted

dark miso.

over charcoals for an intensely smoky flavour, accompanied by juicy heritage cherry tomatoes

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SIPPING

Trends and insight into the global drinks trade

“Consumers are increasingly demanding five main health benefits from their teas, namely antioxidants,detox and purifying, immune-boosting, calming and energising.�

Arleen Ouzounian, founder of Nazani Tea

Jackalope Hotel Photography: Š Sharyn Cairns

SERVICE SIPPING

Refreshing the Apéritif Hotels are seeking to restore wine’s reputation as a superb apéritif amid the inexorable rise of pre-dinner cocktails.

Words: Nina Caplan

W

e live in a golden era for pre-prandial cocktails, seemingly with a local gin for every day of the week no matter which country you’re in, and mixologists blending craziness with creativity in an ever-growing number of bars. Which is wonderful – unless

you’re a hotel in a region that prides itself on its wines. This is particularly true for wines that work best as apéritifs. After all, if guests can’t be persuaded to sample an English sparkling wine or a cava early in the evening, they are less likely to switch to one over dinner, and if they leave the hotel without trying the local specialties at all then what a waste of a unique selling point.

According to Adam Smith, General Manager of Ockenden Manor in southeast England, there are two main types of drinker who swerve straight round the local offering. One automatically asks for a glass of prosecco, the other drinks nothing but champagne. So the hotel, which has a lengthy menu of English sparkling wines (Sussex alone now has around 40 vineyards), offers four English fizzes by the glass – and no prosecco. “The prosecco brigade will try something else if offered,” says Smith, “and usually they like it.”

The champagne-lovers are less flexible, but are given subtle encouragement via price point. The English wines are around £14 a glass, but the hotel has replaced its entry-level champagne with a grande réserve, which is £18.

What about the Champagne region itself – surely they have it easy in this regard? Well, yes, says Florent Chauveau, Bar & Restaurant Director of the

105

newly refurbished Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa: people are unlikely

look very good. This is something mentioned by everyone except the

to walk in here, with the views over Moët & Chandon vines, and request

Champenois, who long ago figured out how to make paying more feel

a glass of prosecco. In fact, he says, it is almost too easy. “When we

like an advantage rather than a duty. In Barcelona, where the range of

reopened in July, we sold 60 bottles in five days,” he recalls. “It was hot,

gins is even more befuddling than the eye-wateringly large measures,

the terrace was very appealing.” It is, he says, common for two people

luring people towards local wines may be a question of appealing to

eating lunch to share a bottle as an apéritif then another over their meal.

their pockets as much as their palates. Cava can be fantastic but is little

But he takes very seriously the mission of a premium hotel in one

known internationally outside a few big brands; however, it is great

of the world’s most famous wine regions to help guests discover new

value, which offers hotels the opportunity to convince on flavour by

things. It has an extensive list of smaller houses – the so-called grower

appealing on price.

champagnes, which make wine from their own vines – and this changes

In Mercer Barcelona, a property in the city’s ancient Gothic Quarter,

monthly. “It’s not like Paris or London here,” says Chauveau, who is

the casual bar and rooftop pool bar offer local wines at exceptional

himself Parisian and has worked in premium London hotels. “People

prices and this, the staff say, works as an entry point. In London, price

are keen to try something new, and they will then try something else.”

is something that Anne McHale MW, curating the wine list for The Coral Room in The Bloomsbury Hotel, has taken very seriously. “Our house English sparkling, Ridgeview Bloomsbury Cuvée, is £12.50, just below the price of a glass of champagne, which helps to encourage

“The prosecco brigade will try something else if offered, and usually they like it.”

guests towards it,” she says. “Likewise, in our rotating selection by the

Adam Smith, General Manager of Ockenden Manor

possibility of removing prosecco from the by-the-glass list.

glass, we always aim to have an entry-level English sparkling at about £8 or £9, so similar to our prosecco.” It too is in discussions about the McHale also flags up the importance of staff training: if a guest asks about the local product and staff can’t answer, chances are they will return to the known, safe option. “We operate a regular training

The property does have a small cocktail list, including a beautiful bellini

programme on our English wines, so that staff understand the quality

made with fresh peach juice, but “we don’t want to expand it – putting

of the wines and know how to communicate to guests why they are

fine champagne into cocktails is a waste, you can’t taste it.” Instead, he

special and will be a really enjoyable alternative to the usual sparkling,”

recommends a series of glasses of champagne: “Non-dosé (without the

says McHale. In New Zealand, Nik Mavromatis of Greystone Wines and

usual small measure of sugary liqueur, so very dry) for the apéro, then

Giles James, Sales Manager for Elephant Hill winery, give a different

rosé or brut with the meal.”

spin on this issue. The country is so renowned for sauvignon blanc

The hotel also offers guests electric bikes to cycle through those

irritation of the Aussies – and both men are happy to reel off hotels with

product, nothing will. This form of visual persuasion works elsewhere,

terrific local wine lists, from Sherwood in Queenstown (“a funky organic

too. At Jackalope, a vineyard hotel on Australia’s Mornington Peninsula,

programme and unique wine list”) and QT Museum Wellington to M

bedrooms look out over the vines, so guests wake thirsty and stay

Social Auckland and The Martinborough Hotel in one of North Island’s

that way. Willow Creek Vineyard is part of the property, and diners or

key wine regions. But, they say, New Zealand has a wine-promotion

drinkers in the Cellar Door restaurant can see into the winery beyond a

issue. “Most people, locals and tourists, go for local wines,” says

glass wall, and watch next year’s vintage being made while they sip this

Mavromatis. “What we lack in New Zealand is the appreciation of good

one. “We are situated on a private vineyard, so wine is an integral part of

sommeliers in many places.”

the Jackalope experience,” says Food & Beverage Director Josef Murray.

This is presumably less of a problem in a small, family-run property

“A 1,200-bottle cellar takes pride of place at the hotel’s entrance, wine

like Hotel & Restaurant Jörg Müller on an island off Germany’s west

tasting is available and we use estate wine as a welcome gift for guests

coast, close to the Danish border. It can’t offer tours to vineyards, as

– from arrival drinks to bottles on ice in the room, so guests are usually

almost every other property mentioned here does. “There is only one

given a glass of local wine before they’ve unpacked their bags.”

vineyard on the island,” says Müller, who is both chef-patron and

Additionally, it offers private tastings in the barrel hall, which must

wine buyer. “The next wine-growing area is 500 kilometres south.”

be hard on the winemaker at busy times but is a great way to entice

But Müller is passionate about the country’s wines and, crucially, able

drinkers to go local. In a more subtle move, the hotel – which also has

to explain the difference between dry riesling and off-dry or sweet:

a fine-dining restaurant, Doot Doot Doot – only stocks wines coming

Germany’s great apéritif wine has caused nearly as much confusion as

from vineyards that are 11 hectares or smaller, since that is the size

pleasure down the years, in no small part due to the complex labelling

of the Willow Creek estate. “By featuring our contemporaries from

system and many differences in style. “We also have several wines from

both home and abroad – boutique producers often focusing on single-

smaller, less famous wineries under our own label, JM Classics,” says

vineyard offerings – we give context to our position as a producer in the

Müller, who is living proof that a sense of humour in the F&B industry

wine world,” explains Murray.

may be at least as useful as formal training. “We always ask people: do

And it won’t hurt that under those circumstances, the price of the local product, with no freight costs and no currency exchange, will

106

that it outsells Australian white wine in Australia – to the everlasting

rolling vineyards, and if this doesn’t make a guest want to try the local

you know why they drink rosé in the south of France?” He chuckles: “Because there is no riesling!”

SIPPING

Mercer Barcelona

Ockenden Manor

107

SIPPING

Turning Over a New Leaf

Words: Ben Thomas

As health-conscious consumers show renewed interest in the UK’s national drink, how is the tea market evolving?

B

ritain’s love affair with tea began in the mid-17th century,

shortly before the East India Company monopolised the market and began to transport leaves back to home shores from China, India and the subcontinent. Originally considered a luxury item,

the aromatic beverage quickly turned into a drink that transcended traditional class boundaries, replacing ale and gin as the drink of the masses. While the nation’s relationship with tea has remained strong ever since, what is actually being sipped is changing, and the classic builder’s tea is losing popularity to green, herbal and fruit flavoured varieties driven largely by wellness trends and the out-of-home market.

“Wellness has dramatically influenced the development of the tea industry, as well as its consumption in recent years,” says Domenico Gradia, Tea Sommelier and Tutor at UK Tea Academy. “There is an increasing recognition of the health benefits of tea around the world, led by various health studies that highlight the high concentration of antioxidants and amino acids in green tea, and the anti-ageing properties of white tea, which is now used as an ingredient for cosmetics.”

With the consumer mindset towards tea rapidly shifting, particularly amongst the younger generation, the demand for loose-leaf, herbal and even cold-brews is at an all-time high. Many are thinking twice before picking up a caffeinated tea bag, and convenience and homogeneity are no longer determining factors when making purchasing decisions, meaning luxury tea brands must expand their offerings.

SIPPING

“Tea is no longer an obligation, it’s a pleasure. People are drinking it out of choice, with a focus on wellness, image and improving the quality of what they consume.”

Marco Geraghty, Director of Insight at National Tea Day

Zig Zag Tea, for example, puts its inspiration down to the Chinese practice of Cha Dao, or ‘the way of tea’ – which is as much about the

temperature of the water, the tea-to-water ratio and the steeping time.”

With tea aficionados demanding they be part of the journey from seed

ritual as the drink itself, championing ethically sourced whole-leaf

to cup, an all-encompassing offer is vital. Today’s age of awareness

infusions with one eye on sustainability. The brand’s Lavender, Rose &

means buying habits are increasingly centred on authenticity and

Chamomile blend from its Plant Collection takes cues from nature and

provenance, and with that being said, tea brands are looking to take a

is entirely caffeine-free, while its Yunnan Green tea is sourced directly

similar approach to the one that helped coffee grow in leaps and bounds,

from China’s Yunnan province and strips the classic back with no added

transporting their consumers to the origin of each leaf – whether that

ingredients. Likewise, Nazani Tea is working to resurrect ancient blends

be China’s Wu Dong Mountain or Armenia’s Lori region.

such as Kykeon and Wild Mountain Mint, collaborating closely with

Collaborating with Global Tea Curator Bernadine Tay to replace

farmers, foragers and an ethnobotanist to ensure its herbal teas are on a

its original signature collection, British fine china and porcelain

par with the finest black tea suppliers.

manufacturer Wedgwood has concentrated its efforts on enriching the

“Consumers are increasingly demanding five main health benefits

flavours of classics such as Maharajah Darjeeling, Jasmine Mao Feng and

from their teas, namely antioxidants, detox and purifying, immune-

Ceylon Uva – a medium-bodied, smooth black tea grown at an altitude

boosting, calming and energising,” explains Arleen Ouzounian, founder

of 1,200 metres in the Uva region in Sri Lanka, providing its customers

of Nazani Tea. “Camellia sinensis cannot provide all these health

with more choice when it comes to food pairings.

benefits alone, so consumers are turning to both herbal blends and pure

“Taste is much more complex than the experience of basic flavours

herbal teas. As science advances and more research goes into specific

on the tongue as it encompasses our senses to a larger degree,” explains

herbs, medically approved health benefits will gain recognition and be

Tay, who also runs her own brand, Quinteassential. “The signature tea

increasingly demanded.”

blends have been specially curated to complement the ergonomics and

For hotels too, speciality teas are increasingly just as important to the breakfast menu as coffee. Gina Daubaraite, Coffee Quality Control Manager at The Ned in London, notes that natural infusions are thriving

style of Wedgwood’s teaware, elevating the experience of the teadrinking ritual.”

Jing Tea, on the other hand, makes use of a low-impact process that

at the five-star hotel, especially during cold periods of the year when tea

instantly dries its ingredients within a vacuum to maintain supreme

sales can rise by as much as 10%. “Rather than ordering coffee, people

taste clarity. Each combination is developed by Head of Tea Tom Price,

sometimes feel they are getting too caffeinated and choose tea as the

who spent two-years sourcing and selecting ingredients for the brand’s

healthier alternative. So instead of having a sip of coffee, consumers

signature blends, which include Green Apple & Hibiscus, an infusion

want to sit down with a teapot and enjoy the process.”

of green apple, hibiscus petals and spicy lemongrass, and Pineapple

Aside from the impact of wellness trends, the recent success of the tea industry is in part due to the growth of the out-of-home market. With Mintel reporting that 36% of consumers eat on the move every week, and

& Osmanthus, a fragrant mixture featuring delicate, floral notes from whole heads of chamomile and osmanthus.

“Tea is no longer an obligation, it’s a pleasure,” concludes Marco

14% now claim to do so every day, it comes as no surprise that out-of-

Geraghty, Director of Insight at National Tea Day. “People are drinking

home tea sales in the UK reached £283 million in 2017, and are estimated

it out of choice, with a focus on wellness, image and improving the

to top £313 million in 2018, according to Allegra World Coffee Portal.

quality of what they consume.”

“This is a huge growth market,” observes Dan Rook, founder of

Though tea drinkers may only be sipping one or two premium cups

Chash The Fine Tea Company, which takes its name from Chashitsu, or

over the course of a morning, rather than the traditional five or six

‘tearoom’ in Japanese. “Mintel also found that consumers now expect all

mugs, the industry is far from in decline. Indeed, the recent rise in tea

drink options to be of equal quality. For us, that means the presentation

sales suggests that many consumers are now trading up to better quality

of the tea, the integrity of the leaf, the freshness of the leaf, the

brews in a trend that shows no sign of stopping anytime soon.

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SIPPING

Full of Beans Words: Richard Frost

Everyone thinks they’re a barista now, but is there any coffee-making equipment around that can help hotels win back the custom of casual drinkers and connoisseurs alike?

113

SIPPING

T

he average customer today possesses a passion for

with finely ground beans into espressos and by extension

coffee and barista-like levels of knowledge that

EBBs at the touch of a button.

would have been unthinkable a generation ago.

Where once consumers might have happily drunk

nothing but instant, now they regularly consume espresso-

in 1895 and now employs around 3,000 staff; the family-

based beverages (EBBs) like cappuccinos and lattes at

owned business grew revenues to €2 billion in 2017 helped

Starbucks, Costa and Caffè Nero, and can summarise

by expansion in France, Germany, the UK and the US.

the relative merits of single-origins versus blends or

Marco Lavazza, Vice Chairman, says: “The hotel market is

light roasts versus dark ones faster than it takes to grind

extremely important to Lavazza because it’s a way to let the

some beans. Many are also experimenting at home with

customer understand our world.” In London, for instance,

AeroPresses, moka pots and cold-brew kits, exhaustively

it supplies coffee machines to the likes of Ham Yard Hotel,

researching how to recreate that memorable coffee or

The Draycott Hotel and The Franklin. The affable Italian is

develop drinks perfectly tailored to their palate. It’s all part

quick to point out that every country is different though,

of the so-called Third Wave Coffee movement, which can

with most of his countrymen sipping espressos, Britons

be broadly defined as a drive towards appreciating coffee

and Americans preferring EBBs, and Australians opting for

as an artisanal foodstuff across all stages of production and

iced drinks to counteract the summer heat. Helped no doubt

consumption (like say wine or cheese), rather than a mere

by this global outlook, the pioneering company lays claim

commodity.

to creating the world’s first single-dose capsule coffee

This new reality poses plenty of challenges for those working in hotel restaurants and bars, which are expected to provide coffee at various touchpoints throughout the

machine in 1989, and has been at the forefront of the sector ever since.

“Capsule coffee machines offer a simple and standardised

day – breakfasts, coffee breaks, afternoon teas, post-meals

high-quality coffee,” he explains. “They’re easy to use

and late-night cocktails. Some properties have opted to

and easy to clean. It’s perfect for hotel chains because they

partner with the biggest players in the market (witness

don’t have to train anybody, which is especially helpful

the Starbucks outlets in Village Hotels), while others have

if they have a high staff turnover.” The devices look

teamed up with smaller specialty coffee companies (the

impressive out on the countertop too, as evidenced by the

Stumptown Coffee Roasters’ cafés at several Ace Hotels

sleek LB4700. It uses Lavazza Blue capsules, each of which

spring to mind), and plenty more look after coffee provision

is graded in terms of intensity and offers its own distinct

themselves. But regardless of which business arrangement

flavour profile, and there is scope to change the dose size

may work best for a specific site, how exactly can F&B

according to personal preference.

professionals ensure that hotels consistently offer a standard of coffee that satisfies such discerning customers?

Fortunately, coffee companies large and small are

114

A perennial champion of this technology in hotel settings is coffee giant Lavazza, which was established in Turin

Top chef Shaun Rankin, of the Ormer Mayfair restaurant inside Flemings Mayfair, is a longstanding fan of Lavazza’s capsule system. “Working with Lavazza and their capsule

stepping into the breach by incorporating the latest

system allows me to keep the coffee really consistent,”

technology into brewing equipment that extracts the

he says. “I don’t have to worry about burnt beans,

maximum out of every coffee bean with minimum effort.

overgrinding or dirty machines. Right from the start of

And nowhere is this more apparent than in the competitive

the meal to the end when you’re given your espresso, it’s

business of single-serve coffee machines, which convert

important that we don’t disappoint and that we maintain a

individual (often brand-specific) capsules or pods filled

high level of consistency.”

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The new GIGA X8

Coffee pleasure – freshly ground, not capsuled 32 speciality coffees can be selected via the 4.3" ­touchscreen colour display 2 precision ceramic disc grinders with Automatic Grinder Adjustment (A.G.A.®) for consistently even grinding Speed function: Hot water bypass for perfect speciality coffees in record time plus added user convenience www.jura.com

Ideal areas of use: Hotel restaurants, bars, breakfast rooms, private function areas, hospitality venues Recommended maximum daily output: 200 cups JURA – If you love coffee

Another company innovating in the field of single-serve

and mellower taste – while the undiluted concentrate it

by properties such as Dormy House and Foxhill Manor in

produces can be stored for up to two weeks in a refrigerated

the Cotswolds. The Aguila 220 takes Nespresso’s Grand

airtight container, according to Peter Van Tyle of cold-brew

Cru capsules, each of which again boast their own unique

coffee specialist Madesco.

characteristics; it can serve shots of coffee in a range of

Madesco has developed a commercial cold-brew coffee

sizes (ristretto, espresso or lungo), as well as cappuccinos,

system that is targeted specifically at restaurants. The kit

lattes and so on with the addition of milk. The compact

includes a five-gallon brewer along with two plus-sized

device also takes up minimal counter space, coming in shy

filters that are reusable and lined, which greatly reduces

of 70 centimetres in every direction.

the chances of grounds finding their way through. And for

A particularly noteworthy feature is the machine’s two

higher-volume requirements, its Big Daddy filter offers

distinct energy-saving modes. The standard mode kicks in

25% greater capacity than the standard Senior Grande

after 30 minutes of non-use and can be quickly exited by

filter, giving users the option to produce larger batches or

pressing any button, while the maximum energy-saving

brew a stronger concentrate.

mode is triggered after four hours of non-use. This makes

However, the fact remains that not every hotel restaurant

it ideally suited to hotel restaurants that only open at lunch

or bar has the capacity to prepare beverages several hours

and dinner, for example, where periods of peak demand at

in advance, and not every customer prefers the unique

the end of mealtimes are counterbalanced by large periods

properties of cold-brew coffee. Similarly, many venues

of inactivity.

want to offer the espressos and EBBs that consumers know

Of course, there are myriad other ways to brew coffee

and love, but they may not like the idea of being tied to a

besides the espresso method, which involves forcing hot

specific brand of capsule or pod – and harbour concerns

water through finely ground coffee beans under pressure.

about the potential environmental costs – so would rather

It can also be made by steeping grounds in hot water using

benefit from the greater flexibility and theatre inherent in

a cafetière before pressing down on the plunger to separate

grinding coffee beans onsite. The good news is that there

out the liquid, or by pouring hot water over the grounds

are now a multitude of dependable bean-to-cup coffee

and allowing gravity to pull the liquid through drip by drip.

machines on the market that have effectively automated the

At Coffee Convent Berlin 2018 – a dedicated exhibition

key processes involved in making that dream a reality.

area within renowned trade show Bar Convent Berlin –

The Jura Giga X3 is a prime example of this particular

organisers have predicted that cold-brew coffee and nitro

type of device; its large 1kg bean container features an

cold-brew coffee will be the year’s top trends; Lavazza,

aroma preservation cover to retain that fresh smell for

Röststätte Berlin, Fortezza, Melitta, Philosoffee and

longer, while the electrically adjustable ceramic disc grinder

Berliner Kaffeerösterei are all planning to showcase drinks

enables the user to accommodate a broad range of business

made using the cold-brew method.

needs. Interestingly, the machine allows up to 31 speciality

For the uninitiated, cold-brew coffee is made by steeping

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appealing for customers and chefs looking for a sweeter

coffee machines is Nespresso, whose Aguila 220 is used

coffees and the start screen itself to be individually

grounds in cold water for anywhere between 12 and 24

programmed to suit the user; for instance, the most popular

hours (its cousin nitro is simply cold-brew coffee infused

products can be renamed and rearranged on the display

with nitrogen to produce a creamy head not unlike a pint

for ease of access. There are also 12 ‘barista recipes’,

of Guinness). The cold-brew method creates a drink that

ranging from flavoured latte macchiato and Irish coffee to

is less bitter and acidic than hot brews – making it more

marocchino and pepresso, and the device will guide staff

SIPPING

Jura Giga X3 WMF 1500 S+

Lavazza LB4723 Nespresso Aguila 220

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SIPPING

Schaerer Barista Photography: © Conné van d’Grachten

through each step of the process via easy-to-follow text

users to remotely view current sales figures across peak

instructions and pictures.

and off-peak times, as well as maintenance alerts and

Jura has also included a suite of integrated maintenance

supply warnings, to enable them to plan more effectively.

programmes: rinsing the coffee system, rinsing the milk

Furthermore, promotions can be sent directly from a

system, cleaning the milk system, changing the filter,

central location to the display of any machine – perfect

cleaning the machine and descaling. Pressing a button

for drumming up demand in underperforming sites – and

brings up a list of maintenance programmes and, when the

analytics reports can be quickly drawn up to help inform

bar turns completely red, the machine prompts users to

future decisions.

perform the necessary task.

The Giga X3 has a recommended maximum daily output of 120 cups. This may not be enough for larger venues,

the key requirement is first and foremost to have a coffee

which could be better suited to something designed for

machine that looks and sounds the part. The Schaerer

higher volumes like the WMF 1500 S+, which can handle up

Barista certainly ticks the boxes from a design perspective,

to 180 cups a day. Among the key features of this particular

with a stainless steel exterior and white glossy elements

bean-to-cup machine are a Dynamic Coffee Assist function

inspired by classic Italian machines. Importantly, it also

that automatically monitors and adjusts factors such as

generates the familiar sounds accompanying traditional

coffee quantity and grinding degree to ensure consistency.

steps such as knocking out the portafilter (the portable

Similarly, the Milk Excellence Sensor measures the flow and

filter that holds the grounds) and frothing the milk, thus

temperature of the milk using ultrasonic technology and

helping to project an aura of real expertise.

automatically changes the settings accordingly.

A huge plus point of this device is that it is Internet

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Not all establishments have the time or inclination to monitor detailed datasets, however, and for many hotels

Meanwhile, the machine’s ability to produce milk foam at the touch of a button is a real boon when preparing EBBs

of Things-compatible, giving it direct access to WMF

– the Supersteam steam wand can conjure up foam in up

CoffeeConnect. This invaluable digital platform enables

to three different consistencies and temperatures, leaving

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SIPPING

Slayer Espresso at The Ritz-Carlton Orlando, Grande Lakes

the user free to focus on creating stylish works of latte art.

Pineapple and Pearls in Washington D.C. and The Ritz-

There is also a manual steam nozzle that can be used for

Carlton Orlando, Grande Lakes. Alissa Perez, Director

traditional frothing. “The espresso machine chimes with

of Public Relations at the 582-room luxury resort, says:

the zeitgeist in the industry at the moment,” says Inga

“We pride ourselves in being the top 1% of the hospitality

Schäper, Head of Marketing and Coffee Competence Centre

industry. We felt that Slayer best represented this idea, not

at Schaerer. “It helps restaurateurs to celebrate barista-style

only with its sleek and refined look, but also by allowing

coffee culture – in terms of appearance, technology and

our baristas to craft quality espresso. The best part of the

skills. At the same time, they can count on exceptionally

machine is its ability to allow the barista to be in control of

easy operation and maximum process reliability.”

the product. This is exemplified through our baristas being

However, if the establishment already has an experienced

steam control. As a result, the espresso products yielded are

credentials, a high-end coffee machine like the Slayer

personalised to the guests’ preference.”

Espresso may be just the ticket. On the design side, it

In the end, the decision on what drinks to provide in

offers a remarkable level of individuality with clients

a hotel boils down to one simple point: what does the

able to match colours, materials and branding, including

customer want? It may be that a single-serve coffee

everything from leather sides and glass panels to exotic

machine can satisfy guest demands for a consistent

wood handles and backlit logos. Slayer’s flagship product

breakfast beverage, or that a high-end coffee machine

also incorporates patented flow-rate control and flavour-

with unparalleled customisation is the only way to keep

profiling processes, putting every variable in the barista’s

connoisseurs happy after an extravagant tasting menu. The

hands to help them create a bespoke coffee with the right

one point beyond doubt, however, is that in a world where

characteristics to satisfy any customer.

millions of consumers can instantly tell a macchiato from

Its users include several top names in the world of gastronomy, not least double-Michelin-starred restaurant

120

able to manage the flow of the espresso extraction and

workforce and really wants to push its coffee-making

a mocha, having a substandard coffee offering is no longer an option.

WMF Professional Coffee Machines.

“Made in Germany” since 1927.

Coffee excellence meets technological sophistication – the WMF 1500 S+ With a 10-inch touch display, the new WMF 1500 S+ offers all information at a glance – including nutritional information, promotional offers and usage videos. Designed for a recommended daily capacity of 180 cups, the internal values also impress across the board. The revolutionary Dynamic Coffee Assist permanently guarantees the highest quality of all espresso-based coffee specialities. The integrated Milk Excellence Sensor raises milk management by the WMF 1500 S+ to a new quality level, while convenience and maximum ease of use is further enhanced by an automatically height adjustable spout and a new Choc Mixer.

The WMF CoffeeConnect digital solution allows you to fully leverage sustainable business models to increase the efficiency of your coffee enterprise. www.wmf-coffeemachines.com

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03.09.18 13:45

COCKTAILS

The Oppenheimer The American Bar The Stafford London

C

oinciding with a major refurbishment by Rosendale Design, The

up for 56.8 million Swiss francs (US$58.3 million) in May 2016. The American

American Bar at The Stafford London has launched a new cocktail

Bar celebrates this landmark deal by combining Beluga vodka, Italicus, St.

list entitled A Journey Through St James’s, highlighting some lesser-

Germain, lemongrass syrup and ice, and shaking vigorously before pouring

known stories about the historic property and its immediate surroundings. Bar

the resulting vivid-blue drink into a diamond-shaped glass served on a

Manager Benoit Provost and his team spent around two months researching

revolving black light stand.

suitable tales, inventing cocktails and then refining the concepts for each of the 12 drinks on the menu.

The Oppenheimer is a particularly striking creation that plays on the hotel’s proximity to Christie’s, the iconic auction house. Christie’s famously

“We wanted the light to shine through the glass and offer the reflections and sparkle you would have seen from the original Oppenheimer Blue diamond,” explains Provost. “The stand also has a spinning function to match the turntables that would be used to showcase the diamonds at auction.”

broke the record for the most expensive jewel ever sold at auction when the Oppenheimer Blue, a spectacular Fancy Vivid Blue diamond, was snapped

www.thestaffordlondon.com

COCKTAILS

Big Apple Juniper & Kin QO Amsterdam

T

he new 21-floor QO Amsterdam proudly calls itself one of Europe’s most sustainable hotels, and the Tank-designed rooftop bar Juniper & Kin fits neatly

into this vision with cocktails made largely from local liquors and ingredients grown in the onsite greenhouse.

High-quality Dutch spirits are combined with fresh mint, basil, rosemary, strawberries and tomatoes, picked by bar staff on a daily basis, to create the innovative drinks menu.

One of the signature cocktails is Big Apple, which has a strong Dutch connection in the form of Rooster & Wolf Fine Brandy and A. van Wees’ liqueur Zilverwater, mixed with Angostura bitters and homemade apple shrub. It’s topped with a garnish of dehydrated apple slices, whole blueberries and sprigs of mint, resulting in a heady concoction that is both refreshing and easy to drink.

Juniper & Kin’s distinctive ethos is also incorporated through creative cocktails like Honeycomb (Sir Edmond Gin with sea buckthorn juice and honey syrup) and Jenever Mint Julep (Zuidam Zeer Oude Genever 5 Year Old with Fernet-Branca and Antica Formula). After customers disappear, moreover, the bar’s leftovers are recycled to produce soaps, candles and even beard oil, while eggshells are sprinkled over the greenhouse’s soil to help grow the next crop of ingredients. www.juniperandkin.nl

Photography: © TodaysBrew

000

the art of generosity

BE curious

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DRINKS

Celebris Extra Brut 2007 Vintage Champagne Gosset A beautifully complex and structured cuvée, the 2007 vintage is the latest addition to Champagne Gosset’s Celebris Extra Brut collection. Made from 57% chardonnay and 43% pinot noir grapes, the blend has a dosage of just 3 grams per litre to maintain the balance between freshness, fruit and vinosity without masking the wine’s personality and colour.

The 2007 vintage is pale yellow in colour with a continuous fine mousse. On the nose, it offers smoky and hazelnut notes that give way to minty, even slightly spicy, overtones upon warming slightly in the glass. Tasting reveals an appealing crispness carried through to the middle palate with notes of brioche, before the delightful sharpness of chardonnay reappears on the finish with a hint of pink grapefruit.

Served at the recommended temperature of 10°C, this high-quality champagne enlivens the palate as an aperitif, but also pairs well with subtly spicy dishes and sweet and savoury combinations. “Good vintage years ending in a ‘7 have been few and far between since 1947,” says Cellar Master Odilon de Varine. “Celebris 2007 benefits from ten years’ ageing in the cellar, giving the vintage a fair maturity and fine balance.” www.champagne-gosset.com

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DRINKS

Millésime 1990 Cognac Frapin

Cognac Frapin Millésime 1990 is an exceptional brandy with a voluptuous aromatic richness and a remarkably long finish. Made from ugni blanc grapes originating from Frapin’s Les Gabloteaux vineyard, which features the calcareous clay soils and friable sub-soils characteristic of the famed Grande Champagne appellation, its special personality reflects the unique set of circumstances that came together to produce the vintage.

In 1990, bud burst was followed by a hot and dry summer, and all of the conditions were met for grapes to achieve a good level of maturity. Harvesting in early October produced grapes with a potential alcohol approaching 10.3% and, following distillation on the lees, the fine and aromatic eaux de vie was transferred to casks stored in dry cellars in the attic.

The resulting cognac is bright yelloworange in colour and possesses delicate floral aromas dominated by jasmine, albeit with apricot, mango and orange nuances and an underscore of subtle woody notes.

In the mouth, it presents apricot and fig notes, ably complemented by delicious hints of liquorice and toasted nuts. For Cellar Master Patrice Piveteau, this 100% Grande Champagne cognac is “a true embodiment of the Frapin style”.

wwww.cognac-frapin.com

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DRINKS

Blanc de Blancs Perrier-Jouët

Maison Perrier-Jouët, founded by Pierre-Nicolas Perrier and Adèle Jouët in 1811, has long been renowned for its floral and intricate champagnes showcasing the true essence of the chardonnay grape in all its glory. Building on this treasured heritage, Cellar Master Hervé Deschamps has personally selected a blend of floral chardonnays from the region’s finest vineyards to create Perrier-Jouët Blanc de Blancs.

This classy cuvée displays a luminescent pale golden colour tinged with green in the glass, and boasts lively aromas of elderberry, acacia and honeysuckle upfront, accompanied by welcome hints of citrus fruit in the background. On the palate, it perfectly illustrates the vivacious freshness of chardonnay, a grape whose unique characteristics can all too often be subdued when blended with pinot noir and pinot meunier to produce champagne. Its immense energy and vitality, allied with a distinct mineral intensity on the finish, make for a highly drinkable wine that is ideally suited to serving as an apéritif.

With a dosage of 8 grams per litre and ABV of 12%, the new cuvée represents the second Blanc de Blancs creation by Deschamps, following in the footsteps of the highly regarded Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs.

www.perrier-jouet.com

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EVENTS Key events in the global hotel F&B calendar

Bar Convent Berlin

HX

Sleep + Eat

8-10 October 2018

11-12 November 2018

20-21 November 2018

Berlin

New York

London

To The Table Asia

EquipHotel

Table

9-11 October 2018

11-15 November 2018

13-15 January 2019

Kuala Lumpur

Paris

London

Forty-One Madison

AHEAD MEA

Ambiente

9-12 October 2018

14 November 2018

8-12 February 2019

New York

Dubai

Frankfurt

GulfHost

AHEAD Europe

ProWein

30 October - 1 November 2018

19 November 2018

17-19 March 2019

Dubai

London

Düsseldorf

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EVENTS NEWS Previews of key events in the global hotel F&B calendar

Photography: © Dubai World Trade Centre

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Photography: © EquipHotel – Collectif Stéphane Laure

GulfHost

EquipHotel

30 October - 1 November 2018 Dubai

11-15 November 2018 Paris

Following its 2017 launch, GulfHost is set to return to Dubai

EquipHotel, the trade show for the hotel and restaurant

World Trade Centre with dedicated zones for the horeca, café

business, has outlined plans to strengthen its catering hub

and bar, and gelato and bakery markets added to its headline

with Bernardaud, Cup & Cino, Cafés Richard, Lavazza France,

sectors of front of house, back of house and tableware.

Bragard and Castalie among the exhibitors already confirmed.

The event also includes the GulfHost Restaurant

The hub will incorporate L’Espace T by Transgourmet – a

Development Programme, in which more than 60 speakers

lively stage bringing together more than 90 exhibitors and

will discuss topics such as business modelling, financing and

250 brands – as well as a hotel business area, a corporate

brand development, and the GulfHost Meetings Programme

foodservice zone and a produce and farmers market, providing

connecting buyers with suppliers. In excess of 25,000 buyers

ample opportunity for buyers and sellers to meet.

are expected to visit the hospitality equipment expo, which

Other features include the Wine & Spirits Centre by Hobart

will showcase 2,500 brands. Last year saw the likes of Cimbali,

and EuroCave, offerings tastings, demonstrations and

RAK Porcelain, Ali and The Middleby Corporation exhibiting,

masterclasses, and daily cooking show Le Village Rungis.

with representatives from Hilton Worldwide, InterContinental

Meanwhile, the Studio18 dining area by Marc Hertrich and

Hotels & Resorts and Marriott International in attendance.

Nicolas Adnet of Studio MHNA will draw inspiration from the

GulfHost will run alongside three complementary trade

layout of a theatre, with gourmet restaurant Resto des Chefs

events; The Speciality Food Festival focuses on gourmet and

representing a stage, the VIP area on one side inspired by a

fine food, Seafex Middle East concentrates on seafood and

dressing room, and the show kitchen and bar on the other

Yummex Middle East specialises in confectionery and snacks.

simulating a backstage area.

www.gulfhost.ae

www.equiphotel.com

EVENTS

Sleep + Eat 20-21 November 2018 London

Sleep + Eat has revealed the identities of the three design firms that will

of the 1980s, pairing the power of nostalgia with cutting-edge technology.

create the inaugural Eat Sets, concept installations showcasing new ideas

Another new addition will be the Eat conference, where the sector’s

in the restaurant and bar world, when the event moves to Olympia London

leading lights will share insights into topics such as innovation and

in November 2018. The Eat Sets form a key component of Sleep’s rebrand

technology in restaurant design, and the potential of the beverage market

to become Sleep + Eat, reflecting the growing importance of F&B across

to drive hotel bottom lines. Among those taking part will be Livit’s CEO

the hospitality sector.

Benjamin Calleja, Baranowitz + Kronenberg’s co-founders Alon Baranowitz

The first Eat Set will be a restaurant designed by Echo Architecture that

and Irene Kronenberg, and Double Decker’s co-founder Melita Skamnaki,

tackles the concept of multisensory dining. It aims to transport visitors

with the programme curated by Supper’s Consulting Editor Heleri Rande.

to the Cornish seaside, combining clever physical design with intelligent

The show has also named the four design firms that will partner with

lighting, soundscapes and aromas to produce individual experiences that

brands to create the Sleep Set concept rooms; HBA London will work

change throughout the day. The second Eat Set, by 3Stories, promises to

with the Natural History Museum, Denton Corker Marshall will tackle

turn the traditional British café on its head and bring the concept into

West Ham United, Yasmine Mahmoudieh will pair with Penguin Modern

a new age of digital sociability; a café-style menu board will display

Classics, and AB Concept will collaborate with Maison Pierre Hermé Paris.

constantly updated and unfiltered communications throughout the event.

In addition, there will be a multidisciplinary exhibition space at Sleep + Eat,

Meanwhile, the final Eat Set explores the link between club culture,

bringing together designers, architects, hoteliers, developers, investors,

interior design and technology. A reaction to the demise of many UK clubs,

restaurateurs, consultants, contractors and more.

Shalini Misra’s nightclub installation will provide a place to party by drawing inspiration from the bright colours, bold patterns and pop music

134

www.sleepandeatevent.com

THINK DIFFERENTLY Clever Solutions For Many Occasions

BRAIN FOOD BOX

www.frilich.de

EVENTS

Table 13-15 January 2019 London

T

able, the dedicated luxury tableware show for F&B, will return

William, Alessi, Nick Munro and Goodfellows were among those taking

in January 2019 following its well-received debut in 2018. The

part in 2018, showcasing their latest collections and innovations to buyers

fast-growing event is moving into the main halls of Olympia

from the likes of AccorHotels, Rocco Forte Hotels and purchasing firm

London this time around, having previously been staged in the

Benjamin West.

historic exhibition centre’s Pillar Hall.

At Olympia London, Table will once again bring together an array of

Organisers are planning to build on the success of the first Table Talks

leading representatives from the top tableware brands and designers

programme, in which high-profile figures from the F&B sector discuss

with key purchasers and specifiers in the F&B world. The eagerly awaited

key industry trends across a series of panels and presentations. The 2018

showpiece will also be co-located with Top Drawer, the international

edition saw designers Afroditi Krassa, Tim Mutton of Blacksheep and

lifestyle event for creative retailers, delivering an additional complementary

Tina Norden of Conran + Partners explore the tribal nature of hospitality,

audience of 15,000 trade buyers, including many drawn from across the

while Professor Charles Spence of the University of Oxford, Jozef Youssef

interior and hospitality industries.

of Kitchen Theory and chef Neil Rankin of Temper London reflected on

Both Table and Top Drawer are part of Clarion Events’ retail portfolio.

how experience is the new cultural currency and Studio Appetit’s Ido Garini

The London-headquartered event organiser is also behind the likes of

challenged listeners to consider new ways of dining.

Pulse, Coffee Fest, Home & Gift Buyers’ Festival, Seattle Gift Show and

There will also be an exhibition presenting a carefully curated selection

Scotland’s Speciality Food Show.

of contemporary products across sectors such as tableware, flatware, chinaware, glassware, banqueting, barware and accessories. Studio

136

www.tablelondon.com

SIDES

Showcasing the products and services bringing F&B venues to life

“Using appropriate buffetware relieves pressure on the kitchen and delivers a better experience for guests by ensuring they can enjoy hot food throughout the day.�

138

SIDES

The Changing Face of Chafing Dishes New developments in buffetware can help hotel kitchens around the world deliver a better service to guests.

Words: Richard Frost

C WNK’s induction chafing dish range

hafing dishes, which keep food warm while

chafing dish features a food pan, which should be

out on display at a buffet, are a quietly

of sufficient volume to accommodate an array of

vital part of the hotel kitchen’s armoury.

common menu items without needing constant

These oft-overlooked pieces of equipment

refills; an opaque or transparent lid for this pan,

are commonplace at countless breakfast buffets

which helps retains heat, and can be of the lift-

around the world, ensuring that staple menu items

off, roll-top or hinged varieties; and a water pan

like sausages, bacon rashers, mushrooms and baked

underneath, which holds the hot water keeping

beans are kept at a constant temperature regardless

everything warm. The dish must be made from

of when exactly the guest is ready to eat. But the

material that conducts heat well (stainless steel or

growth and diversification of the conference and

copper are common choices) and increasingly it will

banqueting market means that increasingly they are

be offered in a range of designs as well as different

also being called into action when presenting buffet

finishes like matte, satin and polish, ensuring that

lunches at corporate events, or light bites at informal

individual products can be adapted to fit in with the

celebrations, where unconventional setups like live

rest of the hotel’s decor.

stations and barbecues are becoming more and more

There are several ways to heat a chafing dish, an

popular. Despite the rising demand, many kitchens

area in which technology has really transformed the

are still trying to make do with unsuitable and out-

market in recent years. The conventional approach

dated buffetware, rather than taking advantage of

is to light chafing fuel underneath the water pan,

new developments in the market that would make

which still comes in handy when operating buffets

their lives easier and service more productive.

in locations without access to electricity sources, but

Before hotels can bring about any meaningful

can present challenges with regards to supervising

change, however, they first need to understand the

inexperienced staff, procuring fuel on a regular basis

full range of options open to them. A traditional

and disposing of used canisters. Nowadays, many

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SIDES

Above: Hepp’s Chafing Dish Induction Plus GN 1/1 range Right: Tiger’s Artisan collection

kitchens prefer electric or induction chafing dishes, which are more

proves useful for buyers looking to maintain a consistent aesthetic

terms of making temperature adjustments. Some units even boast handy

across a hotel’s F&B operations. Meanwhile, the clever condensation-

remote controls, durable hydraulic-motion capabilities and eco-friendly

recirculation system reduces energy use, and importantly lays the

water-recycling systems. Plenty of variety then, but the key is to avoid

foundations for food to retain its freshness for longer.

getting blinded by special features, and instead focus on identifying the

Not to be outdone, Hong Kong-headquartered silverware and

right attributes for the different types of environment in which they will

tableware supplier WNK has used its considerable experience (the

actually be used.

company was founded in 1955) to produce an induction chafing dish

Founded in 1996, buffetware and trolley manufacturer Tiger has

range that promises “both caterer and user a better experience in

a long track record of fusing Italian design with South Korean and

buffet service”. These dishes, compatible with burners, electric heaters

Chinese production expertise to create equipment that fulfils specific

and induction cookers, have reliability at their core, with a stable

needs in the hospitality sector. Its new Artisan collection, besides being

and durable hinge design that allows the lid to be placed in different

compatible with fuel, electric and induction heat, is notable for its

stationary positions to minimise heat loss.

ceramic-coated food pan, which instantly makes the contents look more homely and appetising.

This range is particularly well-suited to buffets where there are lots

Waiting staff can also easily tighten or loosen the brake tension on the lid by adjusting the screws on either side of the hinge, ensuring that the chafing dish remains stable and operates smoothly year in, year out.

of young children present, as the stay-cool handle ensures their delicate

And its innovative water-return system, built into the edge of the lid,

hands will not get burnt if they open the lid themselves. Moreover, the

prevents drips from falling onto the food, which can quickly ruin subtle

lid’s inconspicuous air vents make this product a good match for drier

flavours and textures.

foodstuffs like pasta and root vegetables that go soft when left in steam for prolonged periods of time.

German tableware specialist Hepp, founded by brothers Carl and Otto

140

Dishes are available in either Excellent or Arte designs, a choice that

sophisticated pieces of kit with no open flames and more flexibility in

Once a hotel’s F&B team manages to source the right chafing dishes for their needs, they should quickly notice positive results in a range of different settings. Using appropriate buffetware relieves pressure on

Hepp in 1863, also has a new range that is perfect for the hotel trade.

the kitchen – enabling chefs to focus on preparing the menu properly

The Chafing Dish Induction Plus GN 1/1 can be operated with fuel paste,

without worrying about how it will deteriorate on display – and delivers

hot plates or induction and is ready-made for frequent use as all of the

a better experience for guests by ensuring they can enjoy hot food

key materials, including the insert and removable lid, are easy-to-clean

throughout the day. Hotels simply cannot afford to ignore this unsung

and dishwasher-safe.

hero of the kitchen any longer.

HOTEL & RESTAURANT BUSINESS PLACE

CATERING / DESIGN / WELL-BEING / TECHNOLOGY / SERVICE

CATERING EQUIPHOTEL TRADE SHOW

II-I5 NOV 2OI8 Paris - France

Order your free badge equiphotel.com code : EPE030

For further information: EquipHotel trade show - Oytun Saritayli +33 (0)1 47 56 51 19 - oytun.saritayli@reedexpo.fr

Official partners

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11/07/2018 09:38

PETITS FOURS

Envisio Bonna

Inspired by the blending of technological trends and traditional design styles, Envisio is the latest family of products from Turkish tableware manufacturer Bonna. Created for busy dining environments to help chefs deliver vibrant food presentations, the porcelain collection has been devised to create optimal balance between durability and lightness, and brings a new identity and authenticity to the table using a customisable design offer. www.bonna.com.tr

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PETITS FOURS

Caractère Revol

Noé Duchaufour-Lawrance is a storyteller; a creator of furniture pieces such as the Borghese and Ottoman sofas, and restaurant spaces including Sketch of London. The designer was chosen by Revol to produce a collection for its 250th anniversary. Drawing inspiration from the daily life of the workshop, DuchaufourLawrance has created Caractère – a collection that delves into this meticulous world. The thickness of the outer line and the rhythm provided by the height of the porcelain’s edges are the result of thorough research and bring a touch of elegance to the dining table, while a delicate lip gives the collection a lightness that adds poetry to the finished article. Duchaufour-Lawrance has designed a collection that channels two centuries of craftsmanship, combining art with the technical orchestration of the industry set in the heart of the Drôme Valley, and French gastronomy. www.revol1768.com

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PETITS FOURS

Cielo

Demi Lune

Designed by Hering Berlin founder Stefanie Hering, and crafted from bisque porcelain, the Cielo series is punctuated by hand-perforated holes and features a visually striking light transmissive pattern that sets it apart. The result of a playful experimentation with the raw material, finely polished models such as the coupe plate exhibit an artistic aesthetic while also being exceptionally functional in high-flow kitchens and hotel restaurants.

Demi Lune by Tina Frey Designs introduces modern and graphic serving pieces to restaurant tabletops using versatile plates and bowls in various sizes and colours to create buffet displays. Comprising charcuterie platters and cheese plates amongst other pieces, the range is handmade in resin to allow for added functionality and durability in comparison to traditional porcelain, ceramic and glass, and is suitable for both indoor and outdoor settings.

www.heringberlin.com

www.tinafreydesigns.com

Nuages

Twist

Pordamsa’s Nuages thermal bowl is crafted from pure white porcelain, and is available in both gloss and matte textures, making it suitable for a range of different aesthetics. The brand offers a variety of porcelain dish sets and individual pieces across its wider Nuages collection, including an appetiser plate, presentation platter and tray in larger and rectangular models, which allow culinary creations to stand out amidst new forms and displays.

Part of its Signature collection, Twist from Sola comprises a range of cutlery options from steak knives and demitasse spoons to sauce ladles, as well as more conventional tableware and dessert pieces. Crafted from 18/10 stainless steel, the series undergoes a process of double hot forging – in which the Dutch manufacturer twists the handles on both sides – to achieve its versatile and contemporary design.

Hering Berlin

Pordamsa

Tina Frey Designs

Sola

www.sola-cutlery.com www.pordamsa.com

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Ardan

Waterford Marking the third design in its classically styled Ardan collection, Waterford’s Tonn range comprises sets of long stem wine, flute and iced beverage crystalware including a pitcher and a carafe. Complementing the items are cleancut vases, bowls and a crystal tray, each of which is designed for ease of use and versatility. The range joins the existing Enis and Mara designs, and evokes the spirit of Waterford’s 235-year heritage. www.waterford.co.uk

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PETITS FOURS

Purple Titanium Dibbern

Dibbern’s Purple Titanium collection features a range of cups, small bowls and accessories in Goldfever and Platinum.

Designed by the German manufacturer’s in-house studio, the series comes in an opalescent colour that shimmers between copper and purple, and follows the governing rule for all aspects of Dibbern’s design – that form and function are one, a principle established by Bauhaus. www.dibbern.de

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Twister

Stem Zero

Combining metallic surfaces with the grooved profile of the Twister glass series, Stölzle Lausitz’s tumblers create striking light and colour effects.

The German manufacturer fashions a black or white tumbler exterior, while the inside of the glass is painted with metal tones. The pieces can also be used as a form of decoration, with the metallic-coloured coating permanently applied to ensure it can comfortably cope with even the most intensive use.

Nude has introduced Stem Zero, a range of stemware made using ion shielding technology. Comprising 11 glasses, each designed to enhance different wines, the series features champagne flutes, sensuously shaped aromatic models and full-bodied versions with larger bowls. There are distinct glasses for red wine with generous bowls, sweeping brims and tapered crystal edges to fully capture elegant aromas and amplify hightone perfumes.

www.stoelzle-lausitz.com

www.nudeglass.com

Various

Gaia

The latest additions to Urban Bar’s range of professional glassware and barware include a Premium Gin Balloon glass, Calabrese Martini glass, Tattoo Julep cup and a vintage-style Nick and Nora glass, as well as a stainless steel Scallop cocktail pick featuring a decorative seashell head that adds elegance to Old Fashioned tumblers and glasses. Echoing the brand’s commitment to both quality and functionality, the new lines provide sophistication to a selection of serves.

Characterised by a uniquely shaped wine glass, and produced using one-piece construction with laser treatment to the rim, Rona’s Gaia collection features lightweight, angular and defined glasses with tapered bowls and long slender stems that accentuate a contemporary style. Crafted from barium crystalline, the Slovakian glassmaker’s latest stemware range also comprises a champagne flute and saucer, which are available in 200ml and 250ml versions respectively.

Stölzle Lausitz

Urban Bar

www.urbanbar.com

Nude

Rona

www.rona.sk

148

PETITS FOURS

Playground

Baguette Vintage

The Playground series by Tafelstern comprises bowls in an expansive selection of shades, shapes and patterns, including the Nara model – a piece of stoneware that provides an alternative to classic profiles using characteristic relief patterning. Crafted from fine Noble China, the coupe plates, pourers and bowls create fine contrasts with slender platters and can be combined with the brand’s Eatery series, while other colourways are also offered for variant styles.

The Baguette Vintage range by Robert Welch combines classic shapes and heritage connotations with a distinctive vintage finish that adds a matte look to the 3.5mm cutlery pieces. Crafted from 18/10 stainless steel with a combination of finishing agents, the series makes use of a pebble-smooth surface that is soft to grip in the hand, while the thickness of the handle gently tapers towards the tip to ensure that the weight is centrally balanced.

www.tafelstern.com

www.robertwelch.com

Karma

Algo

Designed for the Coup Fine-Dining porcelain series, the Karma range from Seltmann Weiden adds functionality and ornamental value to the brand’s structured tableware series. Versatile and aesthetically refined, Coup Fine-Dining can create statements within banquet, buffet, table or event settings – with a flat organic form that evokes sophistication, and a minimalist elegance that acts as a perfect surface on which to present vibrant dishes.

Inspired by African basketry, Algo by Villeroy & Boch transfers patterns traditionally handwoven from grasses and colourful ribbons onto porcelain with a minimal twist.

The result is a finely detailed design featuring small lines in clear geometric forms, which produce a dynamic effect on the surface of the round plates. The series is available in two colours against a white background, including a soft beige brown that harmonises with its pared-back design.

Tafelstern

Seltmann Weiden

www.seltmann-weiden.com

Robert Welch

Villeroy & Boch

www.villeroy-boch.co.uk

149

Bar Culture

LSA International Designed by Monika Lubkowska-Jonas, Bar Culture from LSA International features refined, mouth-blown barware and accessories.

Characterised by fine rims, weighty bases and contemporary shapes, each item in the new collection demonstrates the original design and craftsmanship for which the London-based brand is known. Within the 14-piece series are a balloon and brandy glass, complemented by an ice bucket, serving bowl and ashtray. www.lsa-international.com

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PETITS FOURS

151

Foam

Dudson Introducing the latest addition to its fine china range, Foam by Dudson is inspired by the patterns of air bubbles produced in culinary forms. The series features a subtle white-on-white textured finish, and combines the delicate qualities of fine bone china with the strength of vitrified tableware. Available on a range of items to cover full service, the collection is industrial dishwasher and microwave safe, enabling it to meet the demands of a professional kitchen. www.dudson.com

152

PETITS FOURS

High Tea Stand

Siena

Responding to the current trend of high-tea offerings, multi-faceted design firm Absolute Lifestyle has launched a contemporary interpretation of the high-tea stand with the aim of enhancing the overall customer experience.

Manufactured in electroplated stainless steel with wooden tray inserts, the series joins the brand’s AL Dining collection, which champions a misÊ en place approach to table settings, and can be used across an array of restaurant and bar environments.

The second member of its Signature collection, Siena from Sola comprises an impressively broad range of cutlery options, including everything from steak knives and sauce ladles to more traditional tableware and dessert pieces. Manufactured in sustainable 18/10 stainless steel, the series features a forged design with a striking distribution of material, narrowing from 8mm thick at the back of the handle to 4.5mm towards the neck area.

www.alhkg.com

www.sola-cutlery.com

Vector Multi-Cook Oven

T-Collection

Alto Shaam has introduced the Vector Multi-Cook Oven, which uses structured air technology to control temperature, fan speed and cooking time in each individual chamber, as well as providing even and efficient heat distribution with minimal food degradation. Available in countertop or full-size models, the ovens are fully programmable with user-friendly controls, while the independent chambers allow for four different items to be cooked simultaneously with zero flavour transfer.

The T-Collection Induction Chafing Dish by Tiger features a full-view glass lid and is available in square and round models, the former boasting a capacity of 6.5 litres and the latter 5.5 litres. The dish also comes with a three-colour accent band, an insulated handle and an adjustable stop-motion hinge, while its stackable stand makes for convenient storage.

Absolute Lifestyle

Alto Shaam

www.alto-shaam.com

Sola

Tiger

www.tigerhotel.co.kr

153

Robert Gordon Potter’s Collection Steelite International

Created with chefs in mind, Robert Gordon Potter’s Collection comprises an assortment of embossed plates, platters, bowls and accessories in three unique colours: Pier, Storm and Shell.

Blending heritage with innovation, each colour features a distinct finish, with Pier encompassing a neutral taupe, Storm using an intense deep blue and Shell featuring a satin, creamy-white finish with flecks of dark brown throughout. www.steelite.com

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PETITS FOURS

Rock

Tom Dixon Tom Dixon’s Rock collection features weighty sculptural and functional artefacts, each of which make use of green forest marble.

Featuring grooved chopping boards, serving platters, a playful set of stackable and reconfigurable candleholders, and a threekilo dumbbell, the series is designed to furnish kitchen counters and banqueting tables, and displays the natural and unique solid materiality that the British designer has long been associated with. www.tomdixon.net

155

Tamari Plate S Korai

Part of Korai’s Living Collection, the Tamari Plate series is manufactured in porcelain and comes in two sizes and four colours: white, pale blue, grey and Gunjo blue.

Made by Fujimaki Ceramics in Japan’s Arita region, the birthplace of the country’s famed porcelain industry, the plates have been designed to be held in the hand and can be combined with a bamboo basket for decorative table settings. www.koraikogei.com

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PETITS FOURS

G.E.T.

Fino

The G.E.T. range from Frilich comprises tabletop and buffet presentation elements, and is crafted from melamine – a lightweight alternative to porcelain. Available in various shapes, colours, structures and designs, the tableware series is dishwasher safe and shatter resistant, and can be used at temperatures as low as -28°C. Alternative materials are also offered, including titan-coated porcelain for a metal look, or Bugambilia, a cold conductive and resin-coated aluminium.

Combining traditional Japanese craftsmanship with cutting-edge design, the Fino series by Toyo Sasaki comprises a stackable glass that makes use of platinum hard strong tempered glass across its overall surface to achieve maximum durability. With an elegant and light-in-the-hand design, the glass features a thin and smooth top, as well as a large but simple mouth design, and is intended for use across a variety of modern dining scenes.

www.frilich.de

www.toyo.sasaki.co.jp

Pulsar

Atlantic

Designed by Grace Liu und Jian Ping Li, Zieher’s Pulsar plate is suitable for appetisers, intermediate courses and desserts. Made from porcelain in a soft composition, and available glazed in glossy white or matte black, the plates are accompanied by cloches inspired by the design of the Nostalgic glasses from the brand’s Vision series. The mouth-blown cloches come in two sizes, with a small version spanning the inner circle and a larger model covering the first of the plates’ waves.

Developed in collaboration with bar and mixology professionals, the latest additions to John Jenkins’ Atlantic collection include a martini glass, goblet and tasting coupe featuring deep spiral optic designs. Blending 1920s glassware design with a contemporary aesthetic, the Atlantic family has grown to comprise 80 specialist glasses, jugs, carafes, mixers, bitters bottles and stirrers, providing mixologists with a selection of tools to create classic cocktails and bespoke martinis.

www.zieher.com

www.johnjenkins.co.uk

Frilich

Zieher

Toyo Sasaki

John Jenkins

157

Chef n’ Table

Venus

Created in collaboration with Michelin-starred chef Vito Mollica, the Chef n’ Table range from Vidivi Vetri delle Venezie is based on the standard Gastronorm measures, meaning that it is perfectly suited to the dimensions of professional ovens without leaving any wasted space. Optimising the concept of oven-to-table dining, the dishes’ deep base can be used either on their own or with a lid, which itself doubles as a shallow platter for serving directly to the table.

Safran Paris’ Venus stand collection comes in three sizes from 3358cm, and brings a touch of style to buffet, afternoon tea and in-room dining settings. The range is available in several finishes, including white, black, brass, brushed brass and bright or brushed silver, to suit a variety of different restaurant environments, while the stands have been carefully designed to harmonise with dishes, plates, cups and salad bowls.

www.vetrerieriunite.it

www.safranparis.com

Vidivi Vetri delle Venezie

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Safran Paris

PETITS FOURS

Mescana

Dimensional Cut Paper Print

The Mescana collection by Hepp features 17 cutlery items, including a fish knife and fork, butter knife and a sauce spoon. Manufactured in highly polished 18/10 stainless steel and silver-plated versions, these elegant items feature a narrow and long design that seamlessly complements both rustic porcelain and large modern plates, while their grooves are combined with softly rounded edges to allow for a balanced and smooth grip in the hand.

Designed and manufactured by Kalisher’s Studio Artists – who provide art creation, curation, and manufacturing services for the likes of Hilton International, Renaissance and Hyatt, the Dimensional Cut Paper Print brings sculptural qualities to a traditionally framed print. Inspired by the crosscut articulations of fringe fashion, the paper prints are strategically sliced in order to create a unique, patterned depth for a variety of interior settings.

www.hepp.de

www.kalisher.com

Bradford Alan

Senior Grande

Creating menu designs, packaging and decorative volumes for hospitality projects, All Book Covers’ service takes into consideration the existing identity of spaces and schemes to generate relevant and visually compelling ephemera in a variety of styles. Having previously collaborated with Jean-Georges Steakhouse, Art Basel and Continental, All Book Covers offers stylish options including blind deboss on urethane, three-colour embroidery and gloss UV silk screens.

Rethinking the art of producing cold-brew coffee, Madesco has designed a restaurant grade two-ply reusable filter that efficiently and affordably extracts every delicious drop from the beans. Tailored specifically for the cold-brew method, this cost-effective system restricts the filter width to ensure that the coffee stays less than three inches from the surrounding water. The result is a more robust infusion with a smooth flavour, which is less bitter and acidic than its hot-brew counterpart.

www.abc-portfolio.com

www.madescolabs.com

Hepp

All Book Covers

Kalisher

Madesco

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Reimagining The Guest Experience.

HX: The Conference & Marketplace

brings you the latest trends and insights in the hospitality and dining industry.

REGISTER TODAY AT:

www.thehotelexperience.com

Stand-Alone 2-Day Conference On floor educational sessions 300+ Exhibitors showcasing the latest products & services Network with over 7,000 hospitality professionals

NOVEMBER 11-12, 2018 | NEW YORK CITY

JACOB K. JAVITS CONVENTION CENTER

PRESENTED & PRODUCED BY:

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ADVERTISING INDEX

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THE WASHING UP

Photography: © Kailley Lindman

DIY Mixology

Plenty of people secretly fancy themselves as master mixologists, able to rustle up a quality mojito or negroni at the drop of a hat. What to do then if you suddenly find yourself craving a cocktail on your travels but lack ready access to the ingredients needed to produce an elixir worthy of the world’s best bars, or the inclination to leave the comfort of your own room?

Well The Godfrey Hotel Chicago, a 221-key luxury hotel in the downtown

The Godfrey invites guests to make their own margarita without even setting foot in the bar.

River North neighbourhood, has the answer. Its new DIY Mixology service allows guests to order signature drinks from rooftop bar I|0 Godfrey straight to their door via room service, albeit with a clever little twist. Working on the basis that nothing quite matches a freshly made cocktail, each drink involves a touch of creative endeavour from the patron; rather than giving them a finished cocktail, they are instead given the raw materials and necessary barware, along with easy-to-follow instructions explaining how to bring it all together into something special.

Guests who take advantage of the $18-per-drink service can choose from two elegant cocktails, Chef’s Margarita or Cold Brew Manhattan. Should they develop a taste for I|O Godfrey’s concoctions, they can then head up to the bar to sample the full Kitchen Cocktails range, all created by mixologytrained chefs in the kitchen. For those who have already had their fill of Chef’s Margarita, the wider I|O Godfrey menu also encompasses the likes of Strawberry Mojito, Rainbow Sangria, Mezcal Cider and Godfrey Toddy.

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DELIGHT

YOUR GUESTS

As a brand for sophisticated table culture, TAFELSTERN’s strengths lie in its constant endeavour to create products of perfect shape and decoration. Developing diverse stylistic collections, TAFELSTERN is a problem-solver and consultant for the hotel and restaurant business.

www.tafelstern.com

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