Another characteristically bold design choice manifests
sauces with chilli peppers at their heart. On the Pato al Mole
itself in the serving uniforms of the waiting staff. Ortiz’s
Negro, for example, the duck plays second fiddle to a rich,
conviction that “we need to look like Mexicans” meant that
unctuous sauce that combines smokiness and sweetness
there was never any prospect of giving the front-of-house
with every bite.
team generic uniforms, which she claims would have made
“When you try a mole, it’s like an ecstasy,” gushes Ortiz
her feel very sad. Instead, front-of-house staff are attired
before sighing slowly and deeply for dramatic effect. “You
in distinctive waistcoats, elegant jumpsuits and flowing
feel all of the power of the sweet and the sour and the salty
dresses designed by British label 1947 in shades of burnt
and the colour.”
orange, teal and powder blue, frequently accessorised with colourful floral headpieces. It’s all a far cry from the nondescript white-and-brown
When Ortiz talks about the cuisine she so passionately loves, she lingers over every word, emphasising and savouring each syllable to make you feel the same
aesthetic of the Cookbook Café that previously occupied
emotional connection as she does. Her favourite phrase, “I
the site before Ella Canta opened its doors in September
adore it”, comes up again and again when talk turns to food
2017. “I don’t think it’s changed,” she says of the new-look
and her already extravagant hand gestures are increasingly
space, “it’s reborn.”
mirrored by the rest of her body even as she sits. “Mexican food is a profound food, a beautiful food,” she
“Mexican food is a profound food, a beautiful food... it’s very sensual.”
says. “In my point of view, Mexican food is very sensual.” Although she acknowledges that Mexican cuisine is very “on trend” in London at the moment, with new taquerias and burrito bars springing up on a weekly basis, Ortiz believes that her native food is largely misunderstood
What quickly becomes clear upon visiting Ella Canta
overseas. The dishes on offer at Ella Canta are very much
is that this is a kitchen determined to serve up authentic
pitched at the top end of Mexican cuisine, as you’d expect
Mexican cuisine rather than a mere imitation toned down
given the Mayfair location just a stone’s throw from
for European palates.
Buckingham Palace and Hyde Park.
The flagship tasting menu celebrates Mexico’s natural
“I eat tacos, I eat tortas, I eat all the street food that
bounty with dishes such as Guacamole Nacionalista topped
Mexicans love,” she says. “But Mexican food can be very
with a crunchy gold grasshopper, a delicate Mexican tamal
sophisticated. I think it’s the best food in the world.”
and a rich black mole with duck. The à la carte menu
of Mexican culture that is about as far removed from the
Vampiro Ceviche, where the zingy seabass is offset by a
tequila slammer stereotype as you can get.
surprisingly sweet mango and sangrita sorbet served up
Before dinner, customers are encouraged to try one of
confidently on a sky-blue plate reminiscent of a seashell.
Ella Canta’s signature cocktails, entitled Mexico’s Gifts
The mains, meanwhile, take dishes that will be familiar
to the World, or one of its margaritas such as the punchy
to UK diners such as lamb shank, chicken breast and
Calavera built around Patron Silver Tequila and served
Aberdeen Angus beef fillet but marry them to loud Mexican
in a spectacular Day of the Dead-inspired open-topped
flavours such as chilli salsa, plantain purée, chipotle
skull that has proved a huge hit on Instagram. Beers are
mayonnaise and even aubergine ashes. Desserts continue
drawn from across Mexico while the wine list also has
the patriotic theme with dishes like Mexican churros, corn
a strong Latin American focus, with for example wines
and huitlachoche cake, and a mysterious offering entitled
from Hacienda La Lomita in northern Mexico’s Valle de
Maria, la Mexicana Llega a Londres (Maria the Mexican
Guadalupe. After dinner, guests are invited to switch to
Arrives in London) that turns out to be something akin to
the intimate bar area, slightly raised from the restaurant
an upmarket lime cheesecake.
floor to give the impression of having arrived at a new
Across many of the savoury options, the star of the show is the mole, the term used for a range of powerful Mexican
032
The drinks offering at Ella Canta also showcases a side
includes a variety of ceviche starters such as the blood-red
destination, to pick a nightcap from one of the many rare mezcals and tequilas on the carefully curated back bar.