Supper - Issue 10

Page 1


Martha Ortiz

The star chef breaking the caramel ceiling and bringing authentic Mexican cuisine to London

The Swan

Adnams puts its brewery centrestage in an ambitious revamp of its flagship hotel

Daniel Humm and Will Guidara

The dynamic duo behind the world’s best restaurant on a new mission to shake up Downtown LA

“Art is not a plaything, but a necessity” — Rebecca West

“Sun, Shade, Vision” by Kat Lanser © Kalisher

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3/5/18 12:38 PM




Entrée 011


The Innovation Game

• Victor

• George’s Bar

Appetisers 014

St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel, London

SIPPING Cocktails 046

Le Germain Hotel, Toronto

Trends and concepts impacting the world of

• Serge et le Phoque

global hotel F&B

The Mandrake, London • Benedict


082 084

Ovolo Woolloomooloo, Sydney 048

Wine and Design


Burgundy Nights 092 050

The Architecture of Glass Drinks

096 101


Max Brown Ku’damm, Berlin



Main Course • Bleu Blanc


Renaissance Downtown Hotel, Dubai A Match Made in the Kitchen


• RitzCoffier

Chef-restaurateur duo Daniel Humm and Will

Bürgenstock Hotels & Resort, Lucerne

Guidara discuss their new LA outpost

• Café Royal


Table 108 Hotelympia 109


Global Restaurant Investment Forum


Radisson Collection Royal Copenhagen • The Swan Breaking the Caramel Ceiling


Chef Martha Ortiz on the cultural influences

• Le Loti

shaping her first restaurant outside Mexico

La Reserve Geneve, Geneva

The Accidental Bartender


The Swan, Southwold 076

SIDES Hering Berlin 116


Proof & Company’s Zdenek Kastanek reveals

Petits Fours 121

how success rewards those who dream big

The Washing Up




Supper magazine DPS Mar2018_Drift Tea.indd 1

09/03/2018 18:29

Handmade porcelain & beautiful shapes for everyday, designed by Stefanie Hering


Trends and concepts impacting the world of global hotel F&B

“A picture on a phone cannot possibly capture the flavours.� Michel Roux, co-founder of The Waterside Inn, on asking customers not to take photos of their dishes.

E AT E RY Eatery

As a brand for sophisticated table culture, TAFELSTERN’s strengths lie in its constant endeavour to create products of perfect shape and decoration. Developing diverse stylistic collections, TAFELSTERN is a problem-solver and consultant for the hotel and restaurant business.

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23.02.18 10:44


The Innovation Game


nnovation is hard to master. There’s a delicate

hangout, and let the food come to you.

balance between reinventing the wheel – innovation

As a Xennial floating somewhere between tech-

for innovation’s sake – and coming up with concepts

savvy millennial and analogue-age Generation X, I was

so outlandish they alienate the target audience.

admittedly dubious. But as a lone diner, it meant being

True innovation is rare. For many, it comes from being

able to keep my chosen table without having to stand

able to identify day-to-day challenges or annoyances and creating something that, in some way, makes life a little easier.

in line. Having scanned a QR code on the tabletop, the dishes are delivered direct to the table, or to a designated pick-

On a recent trip to Hong Kong, I checked into the

up zone for take-out. For those who want to sample a

new Kerry Hotel on Kowloon Waterfront, and ventured

different cuisine to their dinner date, order more dishes

upon a concept that undoubtedly supports that belief.

through the course of their visit, or for those who just

Beneath the lobby lounge and vibrant destination bar,

can’t decide, the concept is ideal. And mercifully, there’s

Dockyard, the hotel’s all-day dining offer takes the form

no lengthy queues – a frustration of Asia’s traditional

of a bustling food court. Attracting passers-by strolling

food courts. Payment is also made through the App,

along the redeveloped Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade, it

meaning that diners can pack-up and go without delay.

brings together an array of quick-service Asian-style

That Dockyard was packed with locals on a Tuesday

eateries alongside a fully-serviced bar. Diners can

lunchtime is testament to its success. This half-way

choose from homemade ramen and fresh sushi from

house between hotel restaurant and local food court

Japanese eatery Yamaan, Korean dumplings from Dong

was designed by AvroKO, who say that the technological

San, or slow-cooked beef brisket noodles from Sister

innovation behind the venue has helped maximise

Wah. There are ten individual kitchens in total, serving

seating arrangements and flow, which might otherwise

a range of international and regional favourites.

be compromised.

But that’s not the interesting part. The entire

It’s a win-win situation for both operator – now

restaurant is run via an app. There’s no hanging around

with the ability to cater to a more guests with a wide

at the door waiting for the maître d’ to help find a vacant

variety of tastes – and diner. Because let’s face it, time is

table; or a delay in obtaining the menu while staff get

valuable, and any friction points that can be eradicated

distracted. Instead, diners are encouraged to download

through the use of technology are beneficial. Immersive

the user-friendly app where they can peruse the dishes

interfaces, artificial intelligence and robots serving you

on offer and place an order, without the need for human

dinner are all well and good, but for me, this is true

interaction, if so desired. Simply find your favourite


Catherine Martin | Managing Editor







Editor-in-Chief Matt Turner -

Design Manager David Bell -

Managing Editor Catherine Martin -

Production Dan Seaton -

Assistant Editor Richard Frost - Editorial Assistant Kristofer Thomas - Ben Thomas - Consulting Editor Heleri Rande -

Finance Finance Director Amanda Giles - Group Financial Controller Sarah Healey -

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Marketing Brand Director Amy Wright - Data & Circulation Co-ordinator Eliot Ramshead -

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Subscriptions Enquiries: Website: Designed and developed by Supper is printed by Buxton Press

Group Credit Controller Lynette Levi - Accounts Assistant Kerry Mountney -

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The Last Straw Tackling single-use plastics in hospitality: operators and suppliers look to greener alternatives in a bid to combat waste. Catalysed by talk of an impending environmental disaster, the

operators to adopt straw-free policies. Minor Hotel Group has

war on plastic has been declared. With increased pressure from

announced that its Anantara and Avani brands have ended the

green-thinking consumers, together with new government

use of plastic straws in their Asian properties, with a view to

regulations, it appears that plans are finally under way to

extending the scheme to Europe, Australasia and the Middle

combat the issue. For the F&B industry, the crusade begins

East by 2019. Likewise, The Modern Honolulu and Hilton

with finding alternatives to plastic drinking straws, or simply

Waikoloa Village in Hawaii have replaced plastic with paper,

phasing them out altogether.

while Akyra Sukhumvit Bangkok uses glass and stainless steel

Taking their lead from high-street chains such as Costa

Suppliers are also scrambling to eliminate plastic from their

are gradually beginning to remove plastic straws from

products. Teapigs, for example, uses renewable wood pulp

circulation, looking to greener alternatives such as glass,

to create a Natureflex material for its tea bags, in addition

reusable stainless steel, bamboo and wheat – the original

to cornstarch for the attached string and a vegetable-based

material used to produce them.

packaging ink. “There has been a lot of consumer interest

At the forefront of this movement, Marriott International

lately in the revelation that many teabags contain plastic,”

has confirmed that it will remove all plastic straws from over

notes Louise Cheadle, co-founder of Teapigs. “The food and

60 properties in the UK. “Our UK hotels used 300,000 straws

drink industry has a responsibility to move away from the use

last year,” comments Michel Miserez, Area Vice President

of unrecyclable plastic, to ensure that its production practices

for the UK & Ireland, Marriott International. “By removing

are sustainable in the long term.”

plastic straws from our hotels in the UK, we are making a

Changing the global mindset towards single-use plastics

small but significant step in reducing the volume of plastic

may once have seemed a mammoth task but, with the rise

that damages our environment and wildlife.”

of biodegradable or reusable alternatives, attitudes are

Since the 1950s, it is estimated that 8.3 billion tonnes of

shifting. Consumers are increasingly making informed

plastic have been produced, with some 97% still in existence

buying decisions based upon sustainability concerns, driving

today due to a lack of biodegradability. Forecasts also suggest

the hospitality industry to prove their eco-credentials and

that Britain alone uses 8.5 billion straws every year, with

accelerating the eradication of plastic straws – a move that

serious implications for marine life globally.

may not solve the crisis but at least demonstrates why the

Figures like these have prompted the powers that be to take steps to discourage the use of disposable plastics, prompting


water bottles throughout its F&B spaces.

Coffee, Wagamama, McDonald’s and Pizza Express, hotels

F&B industry should be seen as part of the solution rather than part of the problem.

High-quality glassware combining traditional Japanese craftmanship with cutting-edge design @toyo_sasaki_glass


Molecular Magic With lab-grown hamburgers already a reality, is it only a matter of time before synthetic food is more necessity than curious luxury? When the world decides to meaningfully address issues such

food production are simply not sustainable for a growing

as climate change and swelling populations, the sourcing

global population.”

and supply of food will undoubtedly be a key issue. Faced

Dr Mark Post of Maastricht University, the man behind

with scenarios of extreme weather conditions rendering soil

the 2013 burger, now believes that it is possible to produce

barren and subsequent food shortages, the powers that be

improved versions for around US$10 each, were the

will have to reassess established means of production.

technology involved scaled up to industrial levels. However,

Livestock farming alone represents approximately 18% of

if a viable alternative is widely available, would the populace

human-caused greenhouse gases, while 30% of total US land

accept it? There is already ethical pushback and aversion to

is used just to grow corn. Both will likely rise to unsustainable

the concept, and in the context of hotels – where guests at

levels if something doesn’t change, and with political turmoil

farm-to-table properties such as Alain Ducasse’s L’Andana

across the world affecting both food pricing and availability,

or the proudly organic Belle Monte Farm in St. Kitts expect

an alternative could be needed sooner than expected.

nothing but truly homegrown produce – paying customers

Back in 2013, Google co-founder Sergey Brin funded

may balk at the switch from a plate of freshly picked carrots

the €250,000 production of the world’s first lab-grown

to steak created in a petri dish. But are these synthetic

hamburger. The process saw individual meat fibres grown

solutions not simply a logical outcome of the push towards

from cow stem cells then bound together, coloured with

sustainable, grow-your-own food which properties of this

beetroot, and seasoned with a hint of saffron. Reception was

kind champion?

middling at best; however, in the years since, others have tried

Cultural lag dictates that social adoption often trails far

their hand at the process and reported much more promising

behind technological development, and so introducing the

results for a far lower financial outlay. Silicon Valley-based

process would need to be subtle. With this in mind, if the

Memphis Meats, for example, developed a synthetic meatball

glass of synthetic white with dinner is good enough for a

for around US$1,000 in 2016, then an entire meal of chicken

second pour, what’s the harm in trying the steak?

tenders and duck a l’orange just a year later.


“It’s hard for people to wrap their minds around how these

“Nearly all foods we consume are engineered to some

food technologies work, benefit us, and why they’re safe,”

extent, some by selective breeding, others by their harvest

Lee admits. “But we do believe that success with wine and

and preservation techniques,” says Alec Lee, CEO of AVA

spirits will help wider adoption and we’re certainly not alone.

Winery, a company in the process of creating synthetic ‘wine

We can collectively have a huge effect on how our foods are

without vines’. “Many of the more traditional methods of

made, the cost, and the environmental impact.”





Sharing Plates #foodporn is ubiquitous in today’s digital age, but is Instagram having a negative impact on restaurants? Instagram may have the power to make or break a hotel

Plus, regular Instagram users can’t help but note the

restaurant, but now chefs are questioning whether the

dominance of certain foods lately. Mermaid cakes, sushi

obsession with sharing food photos online is becoming

burgers, cronuts, freakshakes, unicorn cookies, rainbow

something of a problem.

bagels – all highly visual creations that are crying out for a

French chef Michel Roux recently made headlines by

This begs the question, are restaurants overlooking the

the triple Michelin-starred restaurant-with-rooms that he

classics in their rush to create something on-trend and

co-founded in the rural English village of Bray. Roux has

Instagrammable? Is the quality of what they’re producing

reportedly been so incensed about customers snapping away

falling because there’s too much focus on aesthetics. And

that he’s taken action, stating that “a picture on a phone

worse still, are they failing to cater for the millions of

cannot possibly capture the flavours”.

customers who aren’t on Instagram?

He’s not alone. James Lowe, Head Chef and owner of

It should also be noted that the time diners spend setting

Lyle’s in London, is all too aware of “places that have a

up their photos is time spent not eating. If this increases

great [Instagram] feed, but the food is rubbish” and dubs the

average table turnover times, it means restaurants can serve

practice “cooking for pictures”. And Merlin Labron-Johnson,

fewer diners during peak hours, which inevitably threatens

Executive Chef of the Michelin-starred Portland in London, is

customer satisfaction levels and bottom lines.

critical of the fact that “now a lot of chefs will create dishes for visual appeal above flavour because of Instagram”.


#nom, #Instafood or #foodporn hashtag.

putting up a ‘no photos, please’ sign at The Waterside Inn,

But Instagram does bring some benefits for restaurants. Chef Tom Kitchin, owner of the Michelin-starred restaurant

The rise of foodography is clearly influencing kitchens

The Kitchin in Edinburgh, freely admits that he’s inspired

worldwide. Dallas-based restaurant chain Chili’s is spending

by other chefs’ Instagram posts. And last year, Four Seasons

around US$750,000 per year on an egg wash to give its burger

Hotel Hong Kong’s Pastry Chef Nicolas Lambert revealed that

buns a photogenic glaze, and has also started serving fries in

he is constantly dreaming up new ideas now that he posts his

a cemera-ready stainless steel holder and stacking its ribs

dishes on Instagram, and has already created 280 different

for greater visual appeal. And Ovolo 1888 Darling Habour in

products. By way of comparison, he says, it’s normal to only

Sydney, billed as the world’s first Instagram hotel when it

change desserts twice a year in France.

opened in 2013, offers a “wide variety of mouth-watering

Michel Roux may not like it, but Instagram’s rise is no

shareable platters and dishes” that are presumably shareable

flash in the pan. Those working in the restaurant sector had

in more ways than one.

best wake up to the power of the picture.


Profiling leading figures with a fresh take on hotel F&B

“In New York we have an incredibly tightly knit network of chefs and restaurateurs, and coming here it seemed crazy to launch a restaurant without getting to know our contemporaries first.� Will Guidara, co-founder of Make It Nice, on the three-year gestation of NoMad LA.

A Match Made in the Kitchen Words: Kerstin Kuhn • Photography: © Benoit Linero

Chef-restaurateur duo Daniel Humm and Will Guidara – co-founders of hospitality group Make it Nice – talk about their new LA outpost in partnership with Sydell Group and their unbreakable bond that will last a lifetime.


“Through meeting Daniel and working with him, I realised that I was born to be in finedining. I just hadn’t met the right chef.”


here are few neighbourhoods in the US that

of the industry’s most dynamic duos: Daniel Humm and

have undergone a more rapid and extreme

Will Guidara. The chef-restaurateur team behind the

transformation than Downtown Los Angeles.

triple-Michelin-starred Eleven Madison Park, the casual

For decades, the area was the dark heart of LA:

Made Nice restaurant and the NoMad in Manhattan has

a wasteland of half-empty office blocks, abandoned

not just made its West Coast debut in Downtown LA, but

Art Deco landmarks and quiet, ghost-like streets. But

also its first foray outside the Big Apple.

over the past ten years, the area has changed into a

“It’s a great time to be here.” Humm agrees: “In many

Walt Disney Concert Hall, the Broad Museum and the

ways, launching in Downtown feels similar to when we

Museum of Contemporary Art, not to mention a string

launched the original NoMad in New York. At that time

of talented chefs and bartenders making their LA debuts,

the NoMad neighbourhood was an area where not much

Downtown LA has developed into a neighbourhood that

was happening, a bit of a dark triangle in Manhattan.

is electrifyingly cool.

So being in Downtown LA, it again feels like we’re

Hotels too have sprung up on every corner. From small boutique properties like Standard, Ace and Freehand

contributing to the transformation of an area and that’s pretty exciting.”

taking over historic buildings to skyscrapers operated by

The pair are in charge of five distinct dining and

big players such as Marriott and InterContinental, in the

drinking areas inside the hotel, which like its sister

past decade Downtown has undergone a building boom

property is owned and developed by Sydell Group.

not seen since the golden age of the 1920s.

The main restaurant is the 110-seat fine-dining

Perhaps no other establishment is more indicative

establishment Mezzanine, currently only open for

of how far Downtown has come than the new NoMad

dinner. Another restaurant, The Lobby, is a more

hotel. Opened at the end of January, the 241-key

informal, all-day venue. For drinking, there’s Coffee Bar,

property is much more than just the West Coast outpost

fitted out Venetian-style with antique mirrors, which

of the renowned New York original. Located in the

becomes a suave cocktail bar in the evening; the buzzing

former headquarters of The Bank of Italy, a 12-storey

Giannini Bar, named after Amadeo Giannini, the former

monument built in 1923, it has its own, unique LA vibe.

bank’s founder; and Rooftop, where poolside food and

Where the New York City NoMad leans French in design

drinks are served with sweeping views of the skyline. All

and inspiration, its LA sister skews Italian, a nod to

cocktails are the work of Leo Robitschek who is also the

the building’s roots. With interiors beautifully restored

Bar Director at NoMad in New York, which was named

by French architect Jacques Garcia, featuring elegant

the world’s third best bar in 2017.

coffered ceilings, Fortuny lamps, indoor potted palms

Humm and Guidara had been planning NoMad LA for

and walls of purple velvet and gold, it has a dazzling

more than three years in total. They readily admit that

neoclassical atmosphere that effortlessly recreates the

this involved an enormous amount of research into the

old Hollywood glamour.

local dining scene. “We really wanted to become part of

At the centre of the hotel is hospitality provided by Make It Nice, the restaurant and bar group run by one


“We’re really excited to be in LA,” says Guidara.

cultural epicentre. Thanks to hotspots such as the

the community here,” explains Guidara. “In New York we have an incredibly tightly knit network of chefs and



restaurateurs and, coming here, it seemed crazy to launch a

Humm and Guidara have taken their joint business ventures

restaurant without getting to know our contemporaries first.”

extremely seriously. The two first met in 2006 when, hired by

So for 18 months, in the run-up to the opening, the duo

hospitality trailblazer Danny Meyer, they were put in charge

ran a NoMad food truck to familiarise themselves with LA, its

of running his restaurant Eleven Madison Park in the heart of

neighbourhoods and restaurants by collaborating with some

New York City.

of the area’s most celebrated chefs. Roaming the streets, the

Swiss-born Humm had moved to the US just three years prior to take on a position at Campton Place Hotel in San

“In New York we have an incredibly tightly knit network of chefs and restaurateurs and, coming here, it seemed crazy to launch a restaurant without getting to know our contemporaries first.”

Francisco. There he quickly made a name for himself, gaining recognition for his creative style of refined, contemporary French cuisine, which also caught the eye of Meyer. Guidara meanwhile had worked with Meyer’s Union Square hospitality group, hoping to one day run Shake Shack. “I had no desire to work in a fine-dining restaurant,” he recalls. “But joining Eleven Madison Park changed everything. Through meeting Daniel and working with him, I realised

two learned all about the city; most importantly that nobody

that I was born to be in fine-dining. I just hadn’t met the

knew who they were. “Someone actually came to the food

right chef.”

truck and said, ‘hey this is really good, you guys should think

brothers in arms, they fought to make Eleven Madison Park

Guidara laughs.

their own. In 2011, after running it for five years, the pair

“These experiences are so humbling and positive,” Humm adds. “It made us understand that we have to really prove ourselves here and we have to bring our A-game. We are taking this very seriously.” As they have their careers; during the past 12 years,


The two men found in each other a kindred spirit and, as

about opening a restaurant!’, which was a real eye-opener,”

acquired the restaurant from Meyer. “That was probably the biggest turning point for us,” Humm says. Over the years, the pair have turned Eleven Madison Park from a French-American brasserie serving 400 people-anight to a fine-dining destination, seating just 80 during a


service. The restaurant has undergone a series of reinventions

so we were able to bring a great core team with us.” Guidara

to find its identity, a journey indicative of the duo’s own

adds that 30 team members from New York moved to LA for

personal growth. Humm and Guidara centred the focus on

the NoMad opening, helping the duo train the remaining

its location, its sense of place, with favourite New York food

staff. “A lot of hands went up when we asked who wanted to

traditions getting an inventive overhaul. For a time dishes

move,” he laughs. “It’s an easy time to be here.”

were accompanied by local history lessons from the team,

What makes it easy too, he insists, is the relationship

while another phase saw tableside theatrics entice guests.

with Sydell Group, which works because everyone brings

Last year, that journey of reinventions culminated in a

their own strengths to the table. “It’s great because of the

six-month closure for a complete refurbishment, which

collaboration but also the absolute autonomy,” Guidara

just so happened to coincide with Eleven Madison Park’s

explains. “Our relationship with Sydell in many ways is the

most pivotal moment: ranking top in the World’s 50 Best

same as our relationship with each other. Nothing happens

Restaurants. “Being named the best restaurant in the world

unless everyone agrees and even though that’s really hard at

at a time when we were closed was really weird,” Humm

times, it forces you to reconsider, and so you end up making

admits. “But,” he adds earnestly, “in that moment, it felt like

the best decision for the project as a whole rather than just

everything had come together. We hadn’t ever designed the

one specific area.”

restaurant so the refurbishment made it fully ours. As a chef I

With all dining and drinking areas in public spaces serving

have only really found myself in the last two years and today

food that caters for a variety of occasions and an award-

Eleven Madison Park is better than it has ever been before.

wining bar programme to match, NoMad LA has quickly

I have found my own language and I know exactly what my

become a destination for both locals and travellers. “Our

food is. And that is an amazing feeling.”

ethos is to fully embrace whatever it is that we’re doing,”

In LA, that amazing feeling has now captured Downtown.

says Guidara. “With NoMad, we love the idea of this grand

But, Humm insists, openings are no walk in the park. “We

hotel where the restaurant and the hotel are one. There’s

are bringing our culture to Los Angeles and that’s always a

a sophistication, comfort and luxury but coupled with

challenge,” he says. “But we’re very lucky that we have a lot

contemporariness and casualness, making it an experience

of amazing people who have worked with us for a long time,

you would be happy to have every day.”



For Humm, developing the menu for the main restaurant

the milk-and-honey ice cream sandwich, which reinvents the

here in California are very different to New York, and from

famous NoMad dessert.

an ingredient point of view, it’s just been amazing to be able

NoMad LA has quickly emulated the success of its New

to cook with such wonderful fresh produce,” he enthuses.

York sister, with Humm and Guidara taking their winning

Together with Executive Chef Chris Flint, who worked at

formula and tweaking it in just the right way to make it

NoMad New York and Eleven Madison Park, he’s created a

relevant in a city 2,500 miles west. Later this year, the team

menu for local tastes, one that is authentic to LA through

will be going through the same process again, when the

his own unique lens. While certain dishes have come over

new NoMad Las Vegas opens its doors. This ambitious hotel

from New York – such as the iconic roast chicken for two

will feature 292 guestrooms and suites, a private swimming

with black truffle and brioche stuffing – the menu leans

pool, a casino, and a restaurant and bar by the duo. Guidara

towards lighter, produce-driven fare like beets roasted with

hopes that after the LA opening, Las Vegas will be less of a

mandarin, endive and coriander; or black cod seared with red

challenge. “The strategy of Vegas being so close to LA and so

kale, pears and horseradish. “Sea urchin is a big thing here so

many of our top people being out here was very intentional,”

we’ve created a dish with little crepes, sauces and toppings

he says. “After LA, our team will be very well-equipped to

that diners can eat with their hands,” Humm adds. “LA is all

handle the Vegas opening.”

about Mexican food; people know how to eat like that here.” Downstairs, The Lobby is an all-day restaurant and bar


from upstairs, with apple, celery and black truffle; another is

Mezzanine has been a process of discovery. “The seasons

Twelve years ago, Humm and Guidara found in each other a soulmate in the fast-moving world of hospitality. And just

nestled beneath the building’s original blue-and-gold

like Downtown LA’s transformation, the two have succeeded

Italianate ceiling. “We made the decision that the whole

in realising their lofty ambitions by working closely

downstairs lobby area would be more casual and we had

together, forming an enduring bond that will last a lifetime.

fun creating a menu with some riffs of some of our more

“We’ve grown up together,” says Guidara. “We went from

upmarket dishes,” Humm explains. A case-in-point is the

acquaintances to best friends and now we’re brothers. We

chicken Milanese, a more casual take on the roasted chicken

know we’re together forever.”

Raio Collection

Designed by Industry Professionals Manufactured in Europe T: +01 973 366 8300 • E:

Breaking the Caramel Ceiling Chef Martha Ortiz discusses her cultural influences, choosing InterContinental Park Lane London for her first restaurant outside Mexico, and inspiring women to pursue careers in F&B.

Words: Richard Frost • Photography: Courtesy of InterContinental London Park Lane


ou can tell a lot about a person from how they break the ice with someone new. Some chefs suffer from tunnel vision, so

focused on achieving culinary excellence

The restaurant we’re currently sitting in, by interior design practice David Collins Studio and its Creative Director Simon Rawlings, brings Ortiz’s broad range of cultural influences to life with

that they can talk about little else. Martha Ortiz is

warm colours and geometric shapes that celebrate

different. After sweeping into Ella Canta, her new

the architecture of Ricardo Legoretta, the striking

restaurant at InterContinental London Park Lane,

ceramics of Gustavo Perez and the textures of

the first thing she wants to chat about is not food

Ernesto Alva. Drawing together the whole space is a

or drink but rather her admiration for Mexican film

handcarved wall-to-ceiling walnut screen, inspired

director Guillermo del Toro. She is tickled by his

by the work of Mexican furniture designer Eugenio

recent answer to a journalist’s question about how

Escudero, whose organic form runs the full length

he balances exploring the darker side of human

of the restaurant partitioning off different sections

nature with being a joyful and loving person – “I’m

while still being permeable enough to give a sense of

Mexican” – and jokes that she uses the same answer

openness; when I ask Ortiz to pick the design element

at every opportunity.

that she’s most proud of, it comes as no surprise

It’s not just film directors that inspire Ortiz, however, as her freewheeling conversation is full of anecdotes about famous novelists, poets, artists, scholars, opera singers, politicians, architects and designers from her native Mexico who have all played a part in shaping who she is today. “Food is fantastic but I think it needs to eat other things, cultural things, poetry, architecture, beauty,” she says. “I’m not a chef that goes to the market just to buy the products, in my country I feel all this inspiration.”

when she singles this out.


Another characteristically bold design choice manifests

sauces with chilli peppers at their heart. On the Pato al Mole

itself in the serving uniforms of the waiting staff. Ortiz’s

Negro, for example, the duck plays second fiddle to a rich,

conviction that “we need to look like Mexicans” meant that

unctuous sauce that combines smokiness and sweetness

there was never any prospect of giving the front-of-house

with every bite.

team generic uniforms, which she claims would have made

“When you try a mole, it’s like an ecstasy,” gushes Ortiz

her feel very sad. Instead, front-of-house staff are attired

before sighing slowly and deeply for dramatic effect. “You

in distinctive waistcoats, elegant jumpsuits and flowing

feel all of the power of the sweet and the sour and the salty

dresses designed by British label 1947 in shades of burnt

and the colour.”

orange, teal and powder blue, frequently accessorised with colourful floral headpieces. It’s all a far cry from the nondescript white-and-brown

When Ortiz talks about the cuisine she so passionately loves, she lingers over every word, emphasising and savouring each syllable to make you feel the same

aesthetic of the Cookbook Café that previously occupied

emotional connection as she does. Her favourite phrase, “I

the site before Ella Canta opened its doors in September

adore it”, comes up again and again when talk turns to food

2017. “I don’t think it’s changed,” she says of the new-look

and her already extravagant hand gestures are increasingly

space, “it’s reborn.”

mirrored by the rest of her body even as she sits. “Mexican food is a profound food, a beautiful food,” she

“Mexican food is a profound food, a beautiful food... it’s very sensual.”

says. “In my point of view, Mexican food is very sensual.” Although she acknowledges that Mexican cuisine is very “on trend” in London at the moment, with new taquerias and burrito bars springing up on a weekly basis, Ortiz believes that her native food is largely misunderstood

What quickly becomes clear upon visiting Ella Canta

overseas. The dishes on offer at Ella Canta are very much

is that this is a kitchen determined to serve up authentic

pitched at the top end of Mexican cuisine, as you’d expect

Mexican cuisine rather than a mere imitation toned down

given the Mayfair location just a stone’s throw from

for European palates.

Buckingham Palace and Hyde Park.

The flagship tasting menu celebrates Mexico’s natural

“I eat tacos, I eat tortas, I eat all the street food that

bounty with dishes such as Guacamole Nacionalista topped

Mexicans love,” she says. “But Mexican food can be very

with a crunchy gold grasshopper, a delicate Mexican tamal

sophisticated. I think it’s the best food in the world.”

and a rich black mole with duck. The à la carte menu

of Mexican culture that is about as far removed from the

Vampiro Ceviche, where the zingy seabass is offset by a

tequila slammer stereotype as you can get.

surprisingly sweet mango and sangrita sorbet served up

Before dinner, customers are encouraged to try one of

confidently on a sky-blue plate reminiscent of a seashell.

Ella Canta’s signature cocktails, entitled Mexico’s Gifts

The mains, meanwhile, take dishes that will be familiar

to the World, or one of its margaritas such as the punchy

to UK diners such as lamb shank, chicken breast and

Calavera built around Patron Silver Tequila and served

Aberdeen Angus beef fillet but marry them to loud Mexican

in a spectacular Day of the Dead-inspired open-topped

flavours such as chilli salsa, plantain purée, chipotle

skull that has proved a huge hit on Instagram. Beers are

mayonnaise and even aubergine ashes. Desserts continue

drawn from across Mexico while the wine list also has

the patriotic theme with dishes like Mexican churros, corn

a strong Latin American focus, with for example wines

and huitlachoche cake, and a mysterious offering entitled

from Hacienda La Lomita in northern Mexico’s Valle de

Maria, la Mexicana Llega a Londres (Maria the Mexican

Guadalupe. After dinner, guests are invited to switch to

Arrives in London) that turns out to be something akin to

the intimate bar area, slightly raised from the restaurant

an upmarket lime cheesecake.

floor to give the impression of having arrived at a new

Across many of the savoury options, the star of the show is the mole, the term used for a range of powerful Mexican


The drinks offering at Ella Canta also showcases a side

includes a variety of ceviche starters such as the blood-red

destination, to pick a nightcap from one of the many rare mezcals and tequilas on the carefully curated back bar.



food however.“My mother always put me cooking – at the beginning, I hated it,” she recalls. “She put me to work chopping the onion, peeling the potatoes, washing the chicken because we were going to have another dinner.” The turning point came when Ortiz watched Como Agua Para Chocolate (Like Water for Chocolate), a 1992 magical realist film based on the novel of the same name by Mexican author Laura Esquivel who she now counts as a close personal friend. “I saw this female character,” remembers Ortiz. “Her name was Tita and she was a rebel It comes as something of a surprise to find a little slice of Mexico within the environs of the 447-room

and when she cooks and she cries, everybody cries. “The way that woman can see food. I said, ‘I want to be

InterContinental London Park Lane, which describes itself

like Tita, I want to be a rebel’. And I thought kitchens are a

as “the epitome of modern luxury”. The five-star hotel,

space of freedom for women, so I decided to become a chef

designed by Sir Frederick Gibberd and opened on the site of

in that moment.”

the Queen’s former childhood residence in 1975, was bought

Ortiz opened her first restaurant, a standalone in

by Middle Eastern private investment group Constellation

Mexico City called Águila y Sol, in 2003 when she was in

Hotels for US$457 million in March 2013.

her mid-twenties. The fine-dining establishment, replete

“The people from Constellation went to Mexico and saw

with Mexican Aztec signs, jade flooring and golden walls,

the work of different chefs,” explains Ortiz, “and they

was critically acclaimed and rapidly made Ortiz’s name

chose me because I think I have one ingredient that is

as a chef, but was forced to close after just five years – an experience that clearly still hurts. “The restaurant was so successful, so beautiful, that they

“I feel a big mission in my life – I’m a feminist, I love to educate women, I love to inspire women and I love to be inspired by women.”

[the government] shut it down,” she says. “They told me that I needed one more parking space. Of course not. I was very successful, I was a woman, I was very young, and I think they were not comfortable with that together. “Once a man came to my restaurant and said, ‘it’s a lot of success for a young woman in Mexico, be careful’. And

important for London, and that is imagination. When I was

I didn’t understand. Three months later, I have this letter

a little girl, my parents took me to London and to Europe. I

that they’re going to shut down this restaurant.

really adore London, I have this attachment. I love this city. And I love that they have a Queen, a woman. “When I came here, I saw that you have all this history

cried. And this extraordinary friend came into my house and

with great women, this beautiful city with this kind of order

told me, ‘why are you crying Martha?’, and I said, ‘I lost

that can be so traditional and so modern. You can see it as a

everything’. And she responded to me in that moment, ‘you

contradiction but I see it as the perfect recipe.”

don’t lose anything, you have it in your heart so let’s start

Food has played a major part in Ortiz’s life since


“And I suffered a lot because really it was my life, more than my business it was my life. I remember that I cried and

over again’.”

childhood, when her mother tasked her with helping to

Ortiz did indeed start over again, opening Dulce Patria

prepare the family’s regular dinner parties. Her father,

in the Las Alcobas boutique hotel in Mexico City in 2010.

a renowned surgeon who completed the first kidney

The fine-dining restaurant has gone on to win countless

transplant in Mexico, and her mother, a famous artist,

awards as much for its avant-garde interior design as for

often invited the great and the good of Mexican society

its food, and was recently named Latin America’s 48th best

into their home, which Ortiz credits with opening her eyes

restaurant. Ortiz likes to refer to her restaurants as women

to culture and the arts. She was less keen on preparing the

and says that Dulce Patria has a “different personality” to




Ella Canta with striking gold, pink and black colours in a more

finding time to balance her commitments at Ella Canta and

sensual, intimate space.

Dulce Patria on opposite sides of the world with penning eight

One area that Ortiz is particularly passionate about is women’s

latest culinary trends, and appearing as a judge on reality TV

sense of equality among all of his children – boys and girls –

series Top Chef México.

while they grew up in Mexico. “I’m a very proud Mexican and

Ortiz has no plans to slow down, and is currently in the process

a very proud woman,” she says. “We need to be 50/50 in the

of building a new standalone restaurant in the La Roma district

kitchen and in the world… I will never pay less to a woman than

of Mexico City that is scheduled to open in January 2019. The

a man, I will give her the same opportunities. And to tell you the

new venue is as yet unnamed – she jokes that she has around ten

truth, when I buy products in Mexico, if they come from a woman

names already – but the theme is clear.

producer I’ll buy them first. “I feel a big mission in my life – I’m a feminist, I love to

“It’s not a restaurant, it’s a theatre with flavours and I’m going to write the plays,” she says. “You will buy your ticket, you

educate women, I love to inspire women and I love to be inspired

will have your play with the flavours. It’s another way of seeing

by women.”

cuisine. It’s going to be something very strange and beautiful.”

There can be little doubt that Ortiz has already inspired


cookbooks on regional cuisine, contributing her thoughts on the

rights, and she is full of praise for her father for encouraging a

For a woman with such a broad range of influences, it seems

countless women to break what she calls the “caramel ceiling”,

only fitting that Ortiz’s next act will draw on another cultural

the glass ceiling preventing women from entering and getting

reference point – her long-held passion for opera. This is a chef

ahead in the traditionally male-dominated F&B world. She is

whose star is clearly on the rise, with no sign of the curtain falling

a breath of fresh air in Mexico’s macho chef culture, somehow

anytime soon.

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The Accidental Bartender Zdenek Kastanek, co-founder and General Manager of Proof & Company, reflects on his remarkable journey from a quiet Czech town to the top of the drinks profession.

Words: Daven Wu • Photography: Courtesy of Proof & Company (unless otherwise stated)


o say that Zdenek Kastanek – cocktail

When he was six or seven, his father’s job took him

competition veteran and self-proclaimed

to Germany. “During the holidays, I would visit him

spirits evangelist – has led a peripatetic life is

at work,” Kastanek remembers. “I have such vivid

to slightly understate things. By any standard,

memories of blinged-up spaces and cigar rooms. Very

it has been the kind of life that has a thoroughly

early on, I decided I wanted to be a chef. You have to

cinematic hue to it – one streaked with accidental

remember I was growing up in a country that had just

friendships, unexpected career opportunities and a

emerged from 40 years of communism. There was no

few liberal dashes of serendipity.

ready-to-eat food to buy. Everything was homemade,

As the co-founder, General Manager and frontman of Proof & Company, an independent Asia-based

so eating out was quite glamorous.” Running around his father’s hospitality world,

spirits business, his career to date presents a

Kastanek sensed that far bigger opportunities were

compelling case that the first step towards achieving

now within touching distance. Being a chef, he saw,

great things is to think big.

was one way to broaden his horizons.

In this case, the dream first took shape in his

When he turned 14, Kastanek’s father arranged

hometown Nové Mesto, a bijou bolthole in the

a summer apprenticeship in a restaurant at home,

highlands of the Czech Republic where his father was

after which he enrolled in a hospitality and boarding

a professional maître d’. As Kastanek puts it: “I grew

school in Brno, the second largest city in the Czech

up in the world of hospitality.”

Republic. He took extra culinary classes to qualify as


a chef and joined the International Bartenders

partner and lead bartender at 28 HongKong

Association where he entered competitions and

Street, a small speakeasy on the edge of

got his first real taste of bartending.

Singapore’s Chinatown. “He wanted to bring

Within a week of graduating he moved

the bar to world standards,” Kastanek says,

to Prague, where he worked in a bar and

“and at the same time, to launch an Asian-

performed synchronised flare bartending

based company that focused on the education

shows three times-a-night. “I was twirling

and supply chain for modern cocktail bars

and juggling bottles like Tom Cruise in the

around the world.”

movie Cocktail!” he says. A little over a year

in early 2013, as part of the opening team for

packed his bags and bought a one-way ticket

Proof; tagline – Advocates for Extraordinary

to Sydney, which he’d always wanted to visit.

Spirits. This was also when, as Kastanek

As a landlocked central European, the dream of

tells it, everything leading up to this point

studying by the beach was an irresistible siren

(including meeting his wife by a hotel pool

call. “I told my mother I’d be back in about

in Puerto Rico during a break in a bartending

four months. I was away four years.”

competition) had been a dress rehearsal. Now,

Under a great domed sky the colour of crushed sapphires, the young émigré enrolled in English-language classes while working as

halfway around the world from Nové Mesto is when the fun really began. On paper at least, Proof’s business

a bar back at the Bayswater Brasserie, clearing

model is simple. From the beginning, the

rubbish, cleaning and polishing ashtrays. “My

idea has always been to stake a position

goal was to be able to speak to the customers.

at the intersection of a curated portfolio

So I got myself an English education. But I

of independent brands, a crack team of

read books on bartending instead. There was

experienced bartenders and educators, a

absolutely no reason to read Hemingway.”

customer-focused mindset, and the Asian

Ever ambitious, he joined Diageo’s alchemy programme in Townsville where he deepened

region’s leading hospitality clients. “Though there are now other outfits that

his knowledge about spirits – “I was so

do what we do, in 2013 there was no-one like

green, I didn’t even know there were different

us,” says Kastanek. “We began by listing all

types of vermouth” – and ratcheted up his

the things that we as bar owners wanted. And

bartending skills.

top of the list was a change in the supply chain.

The dream of a being a chef had by now,

The first thing we offered was a ‘no minimum

it seems, been sidelined. Bartending felt a

orders’ term. Even if a client orders one bottle,

little edgier and more seductive, although

we will deliver.”

Kastanek admits that in those days it was not

The company also eschews a cut-off time,

considered a ‘cool’ profession. But even there,

an industry standard in which supply orders

a sea-change was in the air as bars in London,

must be placed before, say, 2pm for a delivery

New York, Paris and Berlin began taking

the next day. “if you have an emergency in

centrestage. He got wind of a gig as junior

the early evening of business, and you need

bartender at London’s laureled Quo Vadis. And

new stock, we’ll deliver that same day,” he

just like that, he was off again. He arrived in

explains. “And we can do this because we have

Soho and stayed four years.

our own drivers and warehouse.”

By the time he left Quo Vadis – which,

Even more revolutionary is the complete

during his stint, was named the UK’s Best

absence of contracts, a practice Proof has had

Cocktail Bar in 2009 – he’d been promoted

in place since day one. And it’s all based on

to Bar & Beverage Manager and established

the somewhat quaint notions of trust and the

himself as an industry player to watch. Bacardi

gentleman’s agreement. “A client just needs

came calling, and tapped him for an intensive

to tell us how many bottles it will need based

six-month project to train 900 bartenders

on its annual plan, and we’ll quote our best

from Chennai to Goa in 40 hotel properties

price. Then we shake hands on it,” Kastanek

operated by Taj, Oberoi and Four Seasons.

says. “All our client relationships are based on

In the midst of this project an offer came through from Michael Callaghan, a founding


This is how he ended up in South-East Asia,

later, in 2005, his feet started itching. He

friendships. Why do we need a piece of paper?” It’s a business approach that may at first




seem naïve but, in reality, is firmly rooted

closely with the spirits makers. We’re not the

in canny human psychology. The hospitality

cheapest suppliers in the market, but we sell at

experienced bartenders and beverage

world is a small one: reputations are hard to

a fair price in an open market.”

professionals provide turnkey services in

come by, and the smell of a bad egg spreads

Although other players have since entered

Meanwhile, a creative team comprising

concept and menu development, bar design,

quickly. What’s more, Kastanek and his

the fray, they’re all playing catch-up –

staff training and education and spirits

partners are betting on goodwill. “We want to

Proof remains the one to beat. From offices

curation – services that are particularly useful

be the first suppliers that clients come to when

in Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai and

for inexperienced operators.

they’re updating their cocktails list.”

Beijing, the company manages the exclusive

Nor is there a sales team – just relationship managers who are the company’s boots on the street, armed only with a list of set prices.

At the risk of mixing business metaphors,

distribution of not just craft spirits, but also

the proof is in the pudding. In a very short

cocktails ingredients, bar tools and glassware.

time, the company has established an enviable

Its value-added services are noteworthy too.

reputation for having one of the best creative

The centrepiece of Proof’s business model,

Each client is assigned a dedicated concierge

teams in the cocktail and spirits business.

however, is its expansive portfolio of 700-800

who handles everything from fixing a broken

Its clients include the Manhattan Bar, Lo &

craft spirits, each picked with the intention of

dishwasher and budgeting, to events and

Behold group, and an impressive array of

cementing Proof as a reliable one-stop shop

business development. And remarkably, it’s a

five-star hotels including properties by Four

for bars. “We either mass import, or we work

complimentary service.

Seasons, Marriott, and Mandarin Oriental. It



Photography: Courtesy of 28 HongKong Street

has also worked with Singapore’s Atlas bar,

stealing a march on the competition though.

to be getting sharper with each passing year.

the Art Deco masterpiece now helmed by Head

For Kastanek, the opportunities are boundless.

Nevertheless, these are clearly busy times

Bartender Roman Foltán, formerly of London’s

Just one drink is enough to change the game. “I

for him. New projects are in the works in

award-winning Artesian at The Langham. It

remember a time when gin was for old ladies,

Hong Kong, where he spends two weeks in

is here that Proof has stocked the shelves of a

Campari was ridiculed and no one knew what

every month, and across the South China

tower with what is thought to be the world’s

vermouth was. And today, everyone is obsessed

Sea in Singapore, where he spends the other

largest collection of gin.

with the Negroni. Tesco stocks pre-bottled

two weeks. Last January, an outpost of Proof

mixes. I mean, in my hometown of 18,000, you

opened its doors in China while next in the

can now get a Negroni. Imagine that!”

pipeline is Australia.

Elsewhere, five of the venues ranked in the World’s 100 Best Bars in 2016 were Proof projects. 28 HongKong Street, the catalyst

That all of this has happened to a boy from

for Kastanek’s arrival in Singapore, was

Urquell is particularly gratified that bartending

a small central European town who spoke no

ranked 25th in last year’s The World’s 50 Best

is now increasingly regarded as a viable career

English is not lost on Kastanek. “Bartending

Bars list. Even more astonishing is that such

option, especially in Asia – a turn in fortune

was not cool when I started out, even though

success has been achieved almost entirely by

he attributes to the rise of the celebrity chef in

I’ve always thought it is. But I guess that’s

word of mouth. After seven years in business,

popular culture.

because I grew up in that world. It is now

28 HongKong Street – where Kastanek still

And over the past three years, he has been

considered an art. You need to be educated

maintains a regular bartending residency

fine-tuning a fully integrated, online learning

to become good at it, but you can actually

– still has no social media presence and its

platform. Named Jerry, after Jerry Thomas, the

consciously make a career out of it. You don’t

website has just two email addresses. Proof,

author of the classic 1862 bartending book, it

have to stumble on it by accident.”

itself, has no website and only recently created

provides the F&B industry with a professional

an Instagram account. “It’s nuts of course,”

development tool for beverage courses on

dreams about life as a globetrotting chef, but

Kastanek says, with a distinct trace of glee

everything from cocktails to coffee.

he became instead an accidental bartender,

in his voice. “But we want to stay behind the scenes and let the client shine.” This is not the same thing as being shy about


The Honorary Ambassador for Pilsner

That’s the thing about Kastanek. He’s

Kastenak may have left Nové Mesto with big

and a very good one at that. Proof, if any were

always marched to the beat of his own drum,

needed, that the road to success can be full of

relying on his wits and instincts, which seem



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Exploring the concepts behind new hotel F&B venues

“The brief was for a redesign of the hotel that respects the building’s heritage whilst updating it with a fresh contemporary edge that reflects the core values of the Adnams brand.” Christopher Ash, co-founder of Project Orange on the refurbishment of The Swan, owned by Adnams


Photography: © Lisa Petrole

Victor Le Germain Hotel, Toronto Mercer

Victor at Le Germain Hotel Toronto Mercer has been revamped and enlarged in order to make the space feel like a true hotel restaurant.

The space also features a custom-designed statement chandelier made up of meandering brass tubing strung with white globes suspended above

Canadian studio DesignAgency was tasked with creating a hospitality

diners’ heads. “Each section of Victor is defined by its own illumination

environment that is approachable, universal and versatile to appeal to

theme all connected by one meandering custom lighting concept,” says

guests as well as daytime business visitors, corporate event-goers and

Anwar Mekhayech, DesignAgency’s partner and co-founder. Describing

groups connected to the nearby Toronto International Film Festival

the fixture as the element of the project’s design that he is most proud of,

Lightbox Theatre.

he adds that the lighting forms “swoop and scatter over the dining tables

The design team’s concept is built around creating a modern American tavern. Victor now comprises a dining area with blue leather banquettes

below and make the space feel more intimate while giving character and a sense of visual interest from any seat”.

and table seating as well as a chef’s table for eight in a side alcove; an

The reopening of Victor is the latest in a series of changes to the property

intimate bar-lounge incorporating LED-backlit shelves filled with vintage

that collectively elevate the F&B offering. Mekhayech concludes: “By

china, crystal, bronze and gilt chargers; and a coffee-and-breakfast café

moving the hotel reception and adding the café component with a new

with a communal harvest table and a fluted bar.

bar and bigger dining room, Victor really embraces and pronounces itself

Soft, rich colours and materials that mellow with age such as leather

as a hotel restaurant.”

and wood have been used throughout the restaurant to establish a refined but comfortable atmosphere.

IN A BITE Covers: 116 • Owner: Le Germain Hotels • Interior Design: DesignAgency • Executive Chef: Lanny McLeod • Beverage Manager: Kasia Koziara • Tableware: Churchill • Glassware: Riedel • Cutlery: Corby Hall Oslo • Catering Equipment: WMF; Le Creuset • Table Decoration: The Delicate Flower • Menu and Uniform Design: Bustle Clothing 046

Photo: Jan Ras

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Photography: © Ben Carpenter

George’s Bar St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel, London

Following the redesign of the bar at The Gilbert Scott, Marcus Wareing has

by Wareing and Eames, the menu offers cocktails including Bee Keeper, a

now launched George’s Bar, which sees the restaurant collective’s culinary

mix of lavender-infused Bombay Sapphire gin, sloe gin, lemon, hibiscus,

experience applied to drinks-making.

elderflower and honey from Wareing’s own Melfort Farm.

The former entrance hall has been transformed by interior design firm

Rotating monthly, each signature cocktail links back to elements of the

David Collins Studio, which has reinterpreted the space as an intimate,

space’s heritage, with exclusive drinks that celebrate the launch of the

19th-century bar, drawing out elements from European grand cafés and

restaurant’s 100-year menu by mirroring servings and flavours from the

Sir George Gilbert Scott’s original architecture.

original run. Further mixtures inspired by Wareing’s creations from the

George’s Bar is named after the Victorian architect who designed the

kitchen below sit alongside cuvées from Gosset – the oldest wine house in

building in an homage that establishes heritage as a key theme from the

Champagne – as well as selected craft beers, homemade tonic infusions

off. “Due to the building’s Grade I-listed status, respecting the room’s

and other spirit offerings.

history was never a question, but simply a given,” says Bar Manager Dav

Simon Rawlings, Creative Director of David Collins Studio, says: “I hope

Eames. “As part of the building’s restoration, English Heritage highlighted

with George’s that guests feel cocooned and enveloped in the world he

seven areas of particular historical importance, which were to be returned

created; bustling with colour, pattern, reflection and intimate cosiness.

to their original 19th-century splendour and the hotel’s original entrance

It’s a room like no other, and one to enjoy time after time.”

hall, now George’s Bar, was one of them.” Featuring references to the original palette alongside a drinks list curated

IN A BITE Covers: 120 • Owner / Operator: Marcus Wareing Restaurants • Interior Design: David Collins Studio • Signature Chef: Marcus Wareing



Photography: © Per-Anders Jorgensen

Serge et le Phoque The Mandrake, London

Launched during London Fashion Week, Serge et le Phoque has quickly established itself as a favoured destination for the capital’s beau monde.

The à la carte evening menu offers a variety of small plates and larger dishes for sharing. Purple sprouting broccoli and cavolo nero are enhanced

Set within The Mandrake, the debut property of entrepreneur Rami

with black sesame, aubergine is roasted in miso, scallops are served as a

Fustok, the restaurant’s minimalist interiors provide an unassuming

carpaccio with yuzu and lychee. Sharing dishes are executed with precision

backdrop to the see-and-be-seen clientele, impeccably dressed staff, and

and flair: charcoal-grilled octopus, roast chicken breast with pomme

elegantly plated food. This is a venue where the lighting, music, acoustics,

purée and, the pièce de résistance, a classic côte de boeuf served with

service and even fragrance (a heady mix of fig by perfume designer Azzi

guindilla peppers and frites. The accompanying wine list has been selected

Glasser) have all been carefully orchestrated to create an ambience that

by sommelier Bert Blaize who spent months meeting winemakers across

feels almost effortlessly cool.

Europe with a focus on sustainability and terroir.

The duo behind the project – chef/restaurater Frédéric Peneau, formerly

In contrast to the austere dining room, the private dining room is

of Le Chateaubriand in Paris, and interior designer Charles Pelletier –

lacquered and lit in vivid red hues, and the adjacent bar is unmistakeably

launched the original Serge et le Phoque restaurant in Hong Kong’s Wan

louche with its dark velvet furnishings and eccentric collection of objets

Chai market in 2014 and a Michelin star quickly followed. Here at The

d’art. Finally, the hotel next door is home to Jurema, a guests-only

Mandrake, the new luxury hotel in the heart of London’s West End, the

courtyard cabana bar created by landscape architect Bureau Bas Smets.

cuisine is similarly focused on seasonal ingredients that fuse modern French techniques with subtle Asian influences.

IN A BITE Covers: 76 • Owner/Operator: Pistache Hospitality Group; Frederami • Interior Design: Charles Pelletier • Executive Chef: Frédéric Peneau • Head Sommelier: Bert Blaize • Tableware: Gien; Montgolfier • Glassware: Spiegelau • Cutlery: Arthur Price; Perceval • Table Decoration: June in March


The Artisan premium aluminum casting chafer The comfort of home served by professionals Come and visit our booth (#4C5-01 @Singapore Expo).

Adv_Supper-Magazine_Trim-105x210mm.indd 1

16/03/2018 16:53:40


Benedict Max Brown Ku’Damm, Berlin

It’s all about the breakfast at Benedict, the restaurant at Max Brown

Benedict has proven a huge hit with Berliners as well as hotel guests,

Ku’Damm in Berlin. Hotelier Liran Wizman of EHPC has brought in the

who might just as readily stop off for a frühstück on their way back from

operators of its successful Tel Aviv namesake to offer a range of dishes

an all-night club excursion as on their way to the office. If you don’t have

typically associated with early morning, but here served up 24-hours-a-

a reservation, you can expect to perch on a stool sipping an espresso in the

day, seven-days-a-week.

takeway bakerei while waiting for a table to become free. Later at night,

Of course, the familiar eggs-bacon-and-hollandaise combination

guests can delve into an extensive and inventive cocktail menu that proved

features prominently, but the menu also looks further afield with fare such

to be a big hit with the BarConvent crowd on the evidence of Supper’s visit

as Tower of Babylon – a traditional Iraqi dish of fried eggplant and grilled

during the mixology fair.

tomato on a potato fritter, with tahini-amba sauce. Befitting its Israeli

Interiors, by Tel Aviv-based designer Alona Eliasi, combine black marble

roots, there’s a TLV breakfast offering tuna salad, tahini and sour cream

flooring, wild jungle wallpaper, oriental rugs, and 1950s jewel-toned

alongside eggs and bread, or the North African casserole of tomatoes,

furniture with satin pillows, beneath a hammered tin ceiling illuminated

onions, peppers and eggs known as shakshuka. For a more East European

with Hollywood-style light bulbs while an eye-catching yellow neon

angle, there’s syrniki – cottage cheese pancakes with smoked salmon,

sign strategically positioned above the bar bids guests ‘Guten Morgen’ –

red onion, cornichon relish, and golden salmon eggs. And naturally, a

whatever the time of day or night.

restaurant billing itself as the purveyor of “Berlin’s best breakfast”also serves up authentic German dishes such as the ham hock-based Eisbein.

IN A BITE Owner: Liran Wizman • Operator: Europe Hotels Private Collection • Interior Design: Alona Eliasi


Bleu Blanc Renaissance Downtown Hotel, Dubai

Words: Heleri Rande • Photography: Courtsey of Renaissance Downtown Hotel


illed with yoga studios, food markets, artisan coffee

from New York, with whom Myers has collaborated on all

shops, stylish rooftop bars and even the UAE’s first

of his projects. A similar pattern follows for the menu and

water homes, Business Bay is arguably the hippest

uniform, designed by LA-based studio Folklor.

area in Dubai.

The 12km-long waterfront promenade offers unparalleled

views up and down the Dubai Water Canal, which links the

farmhouse-inspired concept that took the chef and his

Arabian Gulf with the Creek in Old Dubai. Nestled along

kitchen team to the southern borders of France and into

the winding canal sits Renaissance Downtown Hotel, part

Spain to explore local ingredients, try the best asadores,

of Marriott International’s lifestyle brand. Opened in 2017,

and experience the richness of the surroundings. “I wanted

the 25-storey converted office building comprises 298

to create the feeling of home in the south of France,” he

guestrooms, the luxurious Six Senses Spa Dubai and dining

says. “Cooking over live fire is a way of relaxing and it

concepts by two star chefs.

brings everyone together.”

One of those is LA-based David Myers, also known as the

The eye-catching azure doors at street level are a visual

Gypsy Chef, under whose direction three unique concepts

representation of the French Riviera coastline colours,

have been born: Bleu Blanc, Basta and Poppy. Myers

while the lavender wall and the smell of fresh bread excite

exudes a sense of familiarity and warmth with everyone

the senses upon entering. The 146-cover restaurant space

he meets – he might be a celebrity in the kitchen, but he’s

is masterfully divided, with the bar, sommelier’s island,

most certainly left his ego at the door – and it’s clear that

wood-fired grill and semi-private dining area all getting

the chef’s spirit translates through every touchpoint from

attention and speaking to the synergies achieved between

design and service to music, lighting and of course food.

Myers and Craig. “We were creating a movie here, all details

“We wanted to keep it simple, there are no tweezers in this

had to be looked after,” says Myers.

restaurant,” he states half-jokingly. The level of detail on display at Bleu Blanc, Basta and


It’s still early days of course but Bleu Blanc has already gained plenty of plaudits since opening; a French

Even more imperative than the physical details of the restaurant, like the mismatched cutlery handpicked from a

Poppy is testament to the input of both Myers and Claire

vintage store in East London, is the focus on staff training

Craig from WA Interiors, along with their respective teams,

and motivation. Myers has established a strong leadership

who had the vision to create three distinctive concepts that

team here with Executive Chef Alex Szkaradkiewicz

each tell a story of their own. The beverage programme

and General Manager Juan Van Huyssteen at the helm.

has been developed by mixologist extraordinaire Sam Ross

“Character is the most important aspect of recruitment, I





need to know whether they actually care,” explains Myers. “And from

Myers’ third concept at Renaissance Downtown Hotel, Poppy, is

our side, we need to treat them well and be able to offer our staff a

tucked away between the two restaurants. The wooden shutters, large

growth plan.”

comfy chairs and waist-level bar island, with guests invited to mix

Complementing Bleu Blanc’s offer is Basta, an amalgamation of

their own drinks with the bartender, again creates an accessible and

three Italian staples – pasta from Rome, bistecca from Florence and

welcoming atmosphere. The dimly lit speakeasy, where music is played

pizza from Napoli. Myers travelled around Italy together with Head

from vinyl turntables, has been inspired by cocktail bars in Tokyo, and

Chef Nicola Fontolan, and the menu was literally written between train

the glass and barware is predominantly of the handmade Japanese

rides around the three cities. As a result, handmade pasta dishes, pizzas

variety. “Think of it as a South-East Asia meets the Middle East vibe,”

straight from a wood-burning oven and steaks from an open wood-fired

explains Myers, whose other restaurants are all located in Asia, the

grill make up the seasonally-driven menu; the carefully curated dishes

region from which he draws much of his inspiration. “When I first

are served on plates by East Fork, Jono Pandolfi USA and Kinto Japan.

visited Tokyo, I fell in love with the place,” admits Myers, “I am certain

Meanwhile, the open-plan kitchen in the 135-seat restaurant conveys the theatricality of Italian cooking, and the use of bricks, wood and

that I came from Japan in some other life.” Of course, new hotel F&B concepts are launched in Dubai all the time,

touches of marble add sleekness to the ambience. “I wanted to create a

but there can be no doubt that securing the services of Myers is a real

buzzy atmosphere,” says Myers. “But it should still have familiarity and

coup for Renaissance Downtown Hotel; the initial buzz around Bleu

feel like someone’s home in Rome.”

Blanc, Basta and Poppy speaks volumes. The Gypsy Chef has gained

The most eye-catching element of this restaurant’s décor is the huge

a well-deserved reputation for pushing boundaries, rewarding team

handpainted artwork of screen icon Sophia Loren in her pomp on the

members and honing new skills through his seemingly endless travelling

back wall, undoubtedly the most Instagrammable shot in the entire

in recent years, and it’ll be fascinating to see how his latest foray takes

hotel. “We will also add a projector above to play old Italian flicks,”

root in the UAE.

explains Myers, just in case the mural of the grande dame of Italian cinema is not la dolce vita enough.

IN A BITE Covers: 146 (Bleu Blanc), 135 (Basta) • Owner: RDK • Operator: Marriott International • Architecture and Interior Design: WA International • Signature Chef: David Myers • Executive Chef: Alex Szkaradkiewicz • Tableware: Haand; Sheldon • Glassware: Schott Sweisel; William Yeoward; Match Pewter; Riedel • Barware: Koriko; Yukiwa; Cocktail Kingdom • Cutlery: Laguiole Rossignol • Catering Equipment: Sheldon; Match Pewter; Mauviel 1830 • Menu and Uniform Design: Folklor


RitzCoffier Palace Hotel, Bürgenstock Hotels & Resort Lake Lucerne

Words: Renate Ruge • Photography: © Severin Nowacki (unless otherwise stated)


t the end of a winding road that snakes up the

Hotel. As the name implies, it combines the spirit of the

peaks high in the Swiss Alps, some 500 metres

classic Gallic cooking of Escoffier with the hospitality

above Lake Lucerne, sits Bürgenstock Hotels &

of Ritz, to the tune of Signature Chef Marc Haeberlin of

Resort. It may seem a remote spot, but hospitality

Alsace’s triple-Michelin-starred Auberge de l’Ill. Chef de

has a history here.

the resort’s Culinary Director Michael Wehrle, who brings

revamp overseen by Swiss hotelier Bruno Schöpfer, the

23 years of experience with Michelin-starred restaurants

four-hotel complex has entered a new era, offering a host

and international luxury hotels.

of facilities alongside world-class dining. The resort is an architectural collage of heritage buildings

The restaurant, with its high-ceilinged salon, is designed in the style of a 19th century French kitchen. At its heart is

and new structures that together house 382 guestrooms,

an original 1873 fireplace from the Grand Hotel National,

a state-of-the-art medical centre, private residences, a

while over 100 classic copper pots – used by Escoffier and

10,000m2 spa, and no less than 12 bars and restaurants

the resort’s chefs between 1873 and 1940 – decorate the

serving traditional Swiss dishes and regional Alpine cuisine

walls and ceiling. The interiors are the work of MKV Design,

as well as Middle Eastern and Asian options.

headed up by Maria Vafiadis, who set out to recreate the

Bürgenstock was once a favourite of Sophia Loren and Audrey Hepburn, and has played host to an array of political leaders, dignitaries, artists and entertainers over the years.


Cuisine Bertrand Charles runs the kitchen, working under

Reopening in late 2017 after a nine-year, CHF550m

atmosphere of an old kitchen using historic artefacts found across the resort during the restoration. The experience evokes the feeling of dining in a cosy

It was also the meeting place of legendary Swiss hotelier

nook in a grand palace, as Charles explains: “It’s almost

César Ritz and Auguste Escoffier, considered one of the

like a secret room at the back of the house. Once guests

world’s first celebrity chefs, who worked here together in

step inside, they feel like they are in a turn-of-the-century

the late 1800s. Bürgenstock has paid homage to the duo

kitchen. It’s full of history. The design is well-balanced

with RitzCoffier, a fine-dining restaurant in the Palace

without taking the guest’s attention away from the plates.”




Photography: © Robert Miller

So what do each of the individual chefs bring to the

an operational challenge at times, it has helped shape the

held three Michelin stars for 50 years,” says Charles of his

menu. The mountain is a plentiful source of fruit, herbs and

relationship with Haeberlin. “The concept at RitzCoffier is

produce; berries grow on a fertile patch at the foot of the

to offer the classic recipes of Marc Haeberlin while adding a

mountain and a kitchen garden provides basil, tarragon,

touch of modernity to the plating.”

parsley and chives. The resort is encircled by farms for the

He continues: “We work based on three pillars – classic

quick delivery of organic produce and when it comes to

cuisine à la Escoffier, signed by Marc Haeberlin, using

sourcing, quality is paramount: “Milk, cheese, butter, eggs

Swiss produce. RitzCoffier is Switzerland-meets-France on

come from a farm 500 metres away,” says Charles. “Our

a plate; traditional French cuisine in an historical Swiss-

arctic char, pike and perch is fished from Lake Lucerne; we

listed monument. An experience found nowhere else in

find the best vegetables at markets in Zürich; our organic

central Switzerland.”

free-range chicken comes from the Gruyère region; veal

At the table, crisp white linens are dressed with

and cheese are both from Switzerland; and for wild coastal

Bernardaud porcelain, glassware from Riedel, and napkins

fish we look to France and Brittany and source smoked

rolled in gold twig-like rings. Cutlery comes courtesy of

salmon in Iceland.”

British manufacturer Studio William and accompanies

Since the restaurant’s opening, the best-selling dish

silverware from the original resort. Serving dishes and

has been the delectably tender beef cheek bourgeoise – à

catering equipment from Zieher complete the setting.

la Escoffier, of course. He explains: “When people go to a

For many diners, it’s the Alpine views that are a feast


for the eyes, and while the mountaintop location has been

table? “It’s an honour to be able to work with a chef who’s

restaurant they should be able to choose something they


Proud to supply the Bürgenstock Resort with Mulberry Cutlery.


would never cook at home and this beef dish involves a great amount of work – marinated 72-hours ahead, before being cooked for 24-hours.” Traditional recipe dishes such as foie gras Haeberlin also fall into the must-try category. Served with brioche and port wine jelly, it looks and tastes regal, and the recipe is a well-kept secret. “Only two people in this world know the secret to this dish,” says Charles, “Haeberlin and Roellinger. The terrine has a specific mix of spices and is delivered here by Marc from Alsace. It’s the same foie gras he serves at Auberge de l’Ill.” Other menu mainstays include confit Swiss lake char; Breton lobster cooked under the grill; and baked supreme chicken smoked on Bürgenstock pine cone and hay, though the menu changes every three months, adjusting to the season. Finally, Switzerland certainly meets France on a plate in the dessert of Haeberlin poached peach with Champagne sabayon and pistachio ice cream – a signature dish. “It can be found in all of his restaurants around the world,” explains Charles. “We don’t have the recipe – Haeberlin is the only owner. It’s totally signature.” While the resort’s F&B venues are undoubtedly off to a flying start, Charles and the culinary team aren’t resting on their laurels: “As we are still relatively new, our offer and work at RitzCoffier is an ongoing evolution as we test, adjust and take things to the next level.”

IN A BITE Covers: 89 • Owner: Bürgenstock Selection • Investor: Katara Hospitality • Operator: Bürgenstock Hotels • Interior Design: MKV Design • Signature Chef: Marc Haeberlin • Chef de Cuisine: Bertrand Charles • Tableware: Bernardaud; Zieher • Glassware: Riedel • Cutlery: Studio William


2018 WWW.ZIEHER.COM FHA Singapore booth 4D2-01 24.-27.04.2018 NRA Chicago, US booth 7627 19.-22.05.2018

Café Royal Radisson Collection Hotel, Royal Copenhagen

Words: Ben Thomas • Photography: © Lisa Löwenborg (unless otherwise stated)


he the Royal Hotel first opened its doors

approach and style,” comment Peter Bundgaard Rützou

in Copenhagen back in 1960, it was it was

and Signe Bindslev Henriksen, co-founders of Space

lauded as the world’s first design hotel.

Copenhagen. “This hotel is not only his architectural

The property broke the mould for its

legacy, but the place of origin for some of his most famed

concept, which saw Danish architect Arne Jacobsen design

furniture pieces. Our personal vision was to pay tribute to

everything from the exterior down to the cutlery.

his iconic work, while modernising the original design.”

Over the years, the hotel has undergone a number of

the duo dug deep into its archives to better understand

rebrand and full-scale refurbishment that have returned it

the spirit and intent of the original scheme. “Our research

to its rightful place.

was incredibly thorough, as we wanted to ensure that our

The project is the work of Danish studio Space


In order to re-establish the hotel as a design destination,

updates, not to mention name changes, but it is the latest

designs were always mindful of the building’s history and

Copenhagen, enlisted to transformed the 259 guestrooms,

Jacobsen’s vision,” Henriksen continues. “The marble

the lobby and meeting spaces, as well as the original Café

flooring and original lithographs, for example, were

Royal restaurant. “Jacobsen’s work in this building was

restored and reframed to be used in select areas of the

truly legendary and we have long been inspired by his

public spaces.”


Arroz de gambas de Palamos



When considering how to modernise the interior spaces, Rützou and Henriksen studied the demands of today’s traveller, analysing the change in consumer behaviours over the last six decades. The studio went on to curate a multifunctional space with a less formal atmosphere, installing soft furnishings with organic shapes as counterparts to the classics that have been retained. At the heart of the public spaces is Café Royal, accessed via a new off-street entrance on Vesterbrogade – a bustling shopping district that houses City Hall Square and Tivoli Gardens. Though the floor-to-ceiling windows are ideal for people-watching, attention is directed towards the interior, and Jacobsen’s legacy. Brian Gleeson, General Manager at Radisson Collection Hotel, Royal Copenhagen, explains: “This is a design-led restaurant, completely focused on the guest experience. The style is casual, friendly and relaxed. We aim to be that corner in the heart of the city where you can get a drink and something to eat, whilst at the same time receive a slice of the unique history that is in every inch of this building.” Familiar designs including the famed Egg and Swan chairs, are dotted throughout, revitalised with upholstery from Kvadrat and Raf Simons, while Stellar Works’ Ren seating reinforces multifunctionality. The reordered layout also sees lesser-known pieces, notably the Mayor sofa and Giraffe dining table, combine with soft lounge furniture and dining-style Drop seats. Completing the offer, Space Copenhagen’s Loafer chair – a collaboration with Fritz Hansen – continues the Scandinavian aesthetic. Looking across to the open kitchen and bar, both of which feature sweeping curves and brass palettes that adjust as the evening draws in, the entire floor blends together as one fluid venue that adapts to a variety of demands. “The decision to open the restaurant and bar to the lobby enabled us to build on the original design of the hotel, which has always housed the restaurant on the ground floor,” Rützou notes. “Our new design creates a more open and inviting space with an intuitive flow and function. The



Photography: © Rickard L. Eriksson

bespoke transparent wall structures, designed to secure

charcoal of a Josper Grill. Also on the menu is Royal Tartar,

divisions between areas, also preserve the intimacy within

a concoction of Danish steak and quail egg; moules frites,

each space.”

with mussels sourced from coastal fishing town Limfjorden;

Throughout the day, a Jacobsen-inspired afternoon tea is served on Royal Copenhagen porcelain and accompanied

and slow-cooked duck confit served with potato purée and a forest berry jus.

by Danish sides and cakes. Meanwhile, the tea selection

Executive Chef Christian Paradisi concludes: “The

gathers global flavours including spiced black tea from

surroundings and history are unique to Café Royal. My

Nilgiri in India and organic green tea from China.

passion lies in creating excellent food experiences, and

The cocktail menu further references Scandinavian greats

will be reflected in everything we serve from small dishes

from silversmith Georg Jensen to furniture designer Hans

shared in the bar to steaks on the Josper grill and cakes

J. Wegner. Smokey Negroni is served beneath a bell jar and

inspired by Arne Jacobsen himself.”

fuses Campari, Ransom Old Tom Gin and Carpano Antica

Even as the meal comes to an end, diners are left with a

Formula; Pisco Brûlée, a mix of pisco, infusion manzana

reminder of Jacobsen’s work. The bill arrives on a miniature

and egg white, is a tribute to Poul Henningsen whose PH5

Series 7 chair coupled with a sketch of the man himself;

and Artichoke lamp feature throughout; and Jacobsen

the final exchange a reminder that even the most intricate

himself is heralded in the form of a Tea Sour – blending

details have been considered to remain true to the famed

Mezcal, tea syrup and lemon juice.

architect’s legacy. A legacy that will undoubtedly live on for

Elsewhere, the cuisine primarily encompasses seafood

years to come.

and meat dishes, with highlights including dry-aged ribeye steaks and whole roasted dorado – grilled over the hot

IN A BITE Covers: 200 • Owner: Wenaasgruppen • Operator: Radisson Hotel Group • Architecture and Interior Design: Space Copenhagen • Executive Chef: Christian Paradisi • Head Bartender: Mate Csatlos


Performance at 360°, oven to table

A new look in oven dishes: gastronorm sizes, designed with Michelin star chef Vito Mollica.

Vetrerie Riunite SpA - VIDIVI Vetri delle Venezie - -



The Swan Southwold

Words: Richard Frost • Photography: Courtesy of The Swan


t’s hard to imagine a destination where F&B is

modern-day Adnams sells its products around the

more integral to the offering than The Swan,

world. This includes beers such as Ghost Ship and

the flagship hotel of one of the UK’s largest

Southwold Bitter made in its brewery; spirits such

independent breweries, Adnams.

as East Coast Vodka, Copper House Dry Gin and

Based in the sleepy Suffolk town of Southwold

Single Malt Whisky made in its distillery; but also

about two hours north east of London, The Swan

a bewildering array of other F&B products that

is at the very heart of the local community not

carry the Adnams name, from sloe gin, limoncello

least because of its central position overlooking

and prosecco to tomato ketchup, crisps and even

the quaint market place. The earliest record of

Christmas puddings. Adnams is evidently moving

brewing at the site was back in 1345, though

with the times, and The Swan is doing the same.

it wasn’t until 1872 that Adnams bought the

“The brief was for a redesign of the hotel that

hotel along with the brewery and since then,

respects the building’s heritage whilst updating it

the fate of The Swan and the business has been

with a fresh contemporary edge that reflects the

intertwined. So much so, in fact, that when The

core values of the Adnams brand and embodies

Swan closed for a refurbishment in early 2017,

the quintessence of Southwold and the Suffolk

the £70m-turnover company warned investors

coast,” explains Christopher Ash, co-founder

that the temporary closure would have a material

of London-based interior design firm Project

impact on its annual results.

Orange. “We prepared an initial concept pitch that

During Supper’s visit, however, it quickly

related the stories of future imagined visitors to

becomes apparent that Adnams is playing the

the renovated Swan, describing in both words and

long game here, seizing what it viewed as “a

imagery what they would see, touch, experience

once-in-a-generation opportunity” to transform

and how the culture and products of Adnams

the hotel and create a gateway to the brand. The

would permeate this experience.”



It was clear from the outset that F&B had

such as these are the sole reason that they’ve

daily, is The Swan’s signature restaurant. The

to sit at the core of the project. “Food and

come to Southwold in the first place. Adnams

54-seat space is dominated by a spectacular

beverage is very important to The Swan, both

has cleverly recognised the value of this

centrepiece copper bar that positively glows in

for our local customers and our overnight

growing market by offering experiential

the soft light of the room, an effect amplified

guests,” says General Manager Craig Ripley.

packages such as A Taste of Adnams, which

by the extensive use of glass in the back bar,

“The Swan is all about relaxation and

combines accommodation, a tour and the

and bespoke feature bottle lights that run the

switching off, and food and drink play a key

optional Make Your Own Gin Experience

length of the restaurant. The largely modern

part in that. Plus ‘drink’ is what Adnams is

upgrade at a discounted price.

British fare created by Head Chef Ross Bott,

in the business of, so we pride ourselves on

Adnams’ presence can also be felt inside

formerly of One Canada Square, champions

the walls of the hotel. “Our concept placed

local produce and wastes no opportunity to

themes of brewing and distilling, Suffolk and

showcase the Adnams’ brand with thoughfully

realise this vision – it occupies the same site

the seaside at its core,” explains Ash. “We

presented dishes such as 56-day aged ribeye,

as Adnams’ brewery and distillery. Guests

were also mindful to respect the heritage of

Adnams Blackshore Stout shallot, bone marrow

staying at the hotel are encouraged to book

The Swan and therefore proposed designs

crème fraiche; Adnams Copper House Gin-

onto brewery or distillery tours next door

that mixed the old with the new, retaining

cured salmon served with beetroot gel, and

followed by tutored tastings. More unusual is

and celebrating much of the original antique

squid ink cracker; and Adnams Ghost Ship

the Adnams Make Your Own Gin Experience, in

furniture and art and combining these with

mussels. Plates by G&G Goodfellows reflect

which guests are paired with a gin maker and

new quirky bespoke pieces.”

the elegance of the space and let the food do

delivering a great drinks experience.” The Swan has an ace up its sleeve to help

guided through the process of selecting around

This approach manifests itself most clearly

six to 12 botanicals from a choice of more than

in The Swan’s two restaurants, named The Still

Utopia bring a reassuringly classic feel to the

30, then taken through the distillation process

Room and The Tap Room to reflect Adnams’

contemporary styling.

to create a 70cl bottle of gin to take home.

brewing and distilling traditions.

For many guests, immersive experiences


The Still Room, open for lunch and dinner

the talking, while the glassware and cutlery by

The bustling Tap Room, meanwhile, has a more informal and pub-like atmosphere with

Atlas, 3.5mm

Finest Quality

silverware and tableware since 1955 e:


six Adnams’ beers on cask and more on keg,

for civil ceremonies, while the intimate Juniper

coffee and tea drinkers who are able to watch

alongside an extensive food menu served daily.

Room seats eight just off The Still Room.

the world go by from its large bay windows.

It’s effectively split into three distinct sections

The Swan’s general manager is in no doubt

Doubtless many customers will then be

partitioned by internal walls and windows but

that the revamp has helped the property to

inspired to move onto one of the other five

brought together by the deep-blue-and-white

up its focus on F&B. “Previously The Swan

Adnams’ pubs that lie within a 15-minute

colour scheme and wooden flooring, as well as

was very much focused on being a hotel and

walk, creating a halo effect that benefits all.

the quirky bric-a-brac, seafaring and brewing

delivering a hotel experience”, says Ripley.

paraphernalia artfully placed in every available

“The old restaurant really just serviced the

us to question every detail and ensure that it

nook and cranny.

hotel guests. Our ambition for the new Swan

is a true representation of the Adnams brand,”

F&B offer is to appeal as much to passing trade

concludes Ripley. “Just as the Adnams brand

as to our hotel guests.”

is fun, friendly and innovative, we hope those

The Swan also has a drawing room catering to the effervescent afternoon tea market. Ash picks this out as his favourite space in the

The early signs are promising if Supper’s

“Undertaking a thorough refurb has enabled

values come through in The Swan too, through

hotel, hailing its “transformation from dowdy

visit is anything to go by. Even in midweek,

our staff and atmosphere, in the interior

lounge to a bright, fresh and quirky room that

both The Still Room and The Tap Room are

design and in our food and drink menus.”

is both modern and traditional, formal yet

doing a good trade with the latter in particular

utterly relaxed”. And there are two private

proving popular among locals thanks to its

dining rooms; the daylight-filled Reading

extensive real ale offering, while the drawing

Room seats 20 on the first floor and is licensed

room is also pulling in a steady stream of

On this evidence, the Adnams brand is in safe hands.

IN A BITE Covers: 54 (The Still Room), 50 (The Tap Room), 20 (The Reading Room), 8 (The Juniper Room) • Owner/Operator: Adnams • Architect and Interior Design: Project Orange • Executive Chef: Ross Bott • Head Bartender: Callum Palmer • Tableware: G&G Goodfellows • Glassware and Cutlery: Utopia • Menu Design: Adnams • Uniform: Uniform Studio



Supper Advert.indd 1

01/03/2018 11:31:59



Le Loti La Réserve, Geneva

Words: Lauren Ho • Photography: Courtesy of Le Loti


t’s often referred to as the luxury hotel

Frank Xu, recently become the first Chinese

brand with a small portfolio and a

restaurant in Switzerland to win a Michelin

big reputation. Owned by low-profile

star – a real validation of the group’s decision

businessman Michel Reybier, La Réserve

to elevate Chinese cuisine into the realms of

currently operates five properties: four in France and its flagship in Geneva. Its Paris

haute gastronomy. At the same time, the hotel’s modern French

hotel – opened three years ago – follows the

restaurant Le Loti is making waves thanks

same discreet and personalised formula that

to the appointment of chef Virginie Basselot.

has not only won the brand its fiercely loyal

Another smart move from the group since

following, but also thrust it into the upper

Basselot, who hails from Normandy, comes

echelons of the city’s most venerable hotels

with a rock-solid pedigree, most notably as

alongside the likes of The Ritz and Crillon –

only the second female chef to pick up the

albeit on a much more intimate scale.

prestigious Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF)

And, as the saying goes, nothing succeeds

award – a prestigious accolade that commends

like success. So now with an even bigger

the best artisans in each trade. Over and above

reputation to uphold, the group has turned

that, Basselot has been named Chef of the Year

its attention to Geneva, where its original

by the Swiss Gault et Millau; she has worked

property has long been a firm favourite of the

with Dominique Bouchet at Hôtel de Crillon;

well-heeled traveller, as much for its lakeside

under Guy Martin at Le Grand Véfour; as Sous

location as for its excellent restaurants.

Chef at Eric Frechon’s Le Bristol restaurant;

In fact, these restaurants are serving to further cement the property’s gravitational pull. For starters, Cantonese dining room Tsé Fung has, under the helm of Head Chef

and more recently, won a Michelin star at Paris’ Saint James hotel. So far, so splendid; especially if Le Loti’s online reviews – where more than one diner is



predicting a Michelin star – are anything to go

reflect Basselot’s honest and simple tastes,

the chichi side of African lodges. As such,

by. Basselot though remains modest insisting

solid classical foundations and propensity to

flamboyant royal purple and gold hues surface

that, in true La Réserve style, satisfying the

stay firmly within tradition while introducing

through demure velvets and animal-themed

guest and retaining their loyalty is ultimately

modern and creative tweaks.

artwork. “Guests are expecting to be surprised

what’s most important to her. “We have to

Unembellished and cleanly presented, each

by the design of a restaurant,” says Basselot.

seduce them, surprise them and work on

plate is a considered architectural sensation,

“For me, an intimate interior is the ideal

keeping their loyalty first,” she says, “stars

further highlighting the chef’s efficiency and

setting to enjoy a meal.”

will maybe come later.”

flare. Served on classic handmade crockery by

Hotel Manager Loïc Frésard says the hotel’s

With a professional background like

Limoges-based porcelain house Bernardaud,

Basselot’s, there are certainly high

devoted clientele has warmly welcomed

each dish has been personally chosen by

expectations of the chef as she settles into life

Basselot. But then again, it’s hardly a surprise,

Basselot, who feels strongly that the right

near the French-Swiss border. But, backed by

considering the exquisitely executed dishes

crockery influences the final result. “The

a brand as highly regarded as La Réserve, it’s

coming from her kitchen. “I cook what I like to

crockery is a part of the complete dish,” she

also the perfect recipe for success. And it seems

eat,” Basselot says simply.

says. “These days, diners give real importance

the respect for each other is mutual: “I really

to the visual appearance. They like to take

like the spirit and values of the La Réserve

flavours using fresh, seasonal produce to

pictures of the dishes, so it’s becoming a real

brand,” she says. “My cooking is inspired by

create precise, picture-perfect dishes rooted

part of the overall experience.”

everything around me… when I discovered the

Essentially that translates as clean, unfussy

in tradition but flecked with subtle global

Meanwhile, details such as the serviette

property in Geneva, I was seduced by the place

accents. Concoctions such as sea bass and

rings have been designed by French table

and the environment with the amazing view

oyster tartar served with lemon cream and

accessory company Blue Leaves to add a

over the lake and the mountains.”

caviar, or her signature cod perfectly cooked

personal touch and harmonise with the Jacques

and dressed with creamy lemon butter sauce,

Garcia-designed décor, which draws from

IN A BITE Covers: 90 • Owner: Michel Reybier • Operator: La Réserve • Interior Design: Jacques Garcia • Chef: Virginie Basselot • Tableware: Bernardaud


Creating Hospitality

Cutlery: Piemont CMS

Copper Glow    Unbox your ambitions

Villeroy & Boch S.à.r.l. Hospitality 330, rue de Rollingergrund 2441 Luxembourg Tel.: + (352) 46 82 11 · Fax: + (352) 46 90 22 E-mail:


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Trends and insight into the global drinks trade

“We make wine traditionally. That means guests can participate in every step of the winemaking process, from selecting and harvesting the grapes to stomping them with their feet!� Ana and Paulo Barradas Rebelo, owners of Torre de Palma Wine Hotel, on guest experience.


Atole Punch Punch Room The London Edition

Building on the success of its popular punch menu The Five, Punch Room at The London Edition has now launched The Five: Volume II. Whereas the first menu showcased the five main ingredients of punch (spirits, water and tea, citrus, sugar and spice), Volume II celebrates the drink’s rich history with five themed chapters alongside a few Punch Room classics. The Naval section, for instance, highlights punch’s role fuelling sailors in far-flung corners of the world, while the Coffee House section recognises the drink’s appeal in London’s old taverns. Atole Punch sits within the Caribbean chapter, which draws inspiration from the famous Barbadian rhyme ‘One of Sour, Two of Sweet, Three of Strong, Four of Weak’ that is said to describe the perfect punch recipe. The exotic cocktail is made from Van Oosten Arrack, Chichicapa Mezcal, Elyx Vodka, green tea, manzanilla sherry, lemon, milk, coriander, corn syrup, sumac and annatto seeds. Created by Bar Manager Anny Shannon, formerly of Calooh Callay, and Head Bartender Eric Van Oers, previously of The Blind Pig, the punch menu is presented to patrons in the form of a book bound in British racing green linen with original colour illustrations from six artists. It also includes a humorous foreword on Punch Room’s hospitality from Will McBean of London-based bar Bad Sports.


l a dya ndbut l e r . c om

Alibi Ovolo Woolloomooloo, Sydney

Words: Renate Ruge • Photography: Courtesy of Ovolo Hotels


t’s difficult to stand out from the crowd amongst

curve in this regard, particularly Down Under where

trendy new bars and some of the best restaurants

there’s increased appetite for clean lifestyle options.

in town, but Ovolo Hotels has embarked upon

“We have listened to the market and know that

a new concept that will undoubtedly make an

healthy eating is a priority, so we made the decision

impact in an otherwise crowded stretch of Sydney

to partner with Matthew to develop a new plant-

waterfront. Alibi, a newly launched venue at Ovolo

based concept not yet seen in an Australian hotel

Woolloomooloo, is billed as Australia’s first bar

restaurant,” he says.

offering a 100% plant-based menu. The hotel itself opened in 2016 in an old wool store on Finger Wharf, a redeveloped leisure

several American cities, a raw and vegan culinary

destination with apartments, retail, fine-dining and

academy retreat in Thailand, and more than

a marina. While the property was doing a good trade,

ten cookbooks. “Australia is seen as a leader in

Ovolo Hotels’ founder and CEO Girish Jhunjhnuwala

wellbeing and lifestyle and Ovolo came to me with

felt that the F&B offer was in need of a lift.

the opportunity at the right time,” he says. “The

As a result, the bar and kitchen has taken a

food and beverage scene is so vibrant here – great

healthy turn with a new emphasis on wellbeing.

produce, chefs, sunshine. I’m enjoying exploring the

Spearheaded by renowned American chef Matthew

amazing and diverse produce available.”

Kenney, the concept has been developed in response


It is Kenney’s first venture in Australia, having already built an empire that includes restaurants in

Found on the ground floor of the hotel, Alibi’s

to increasing pressure for hotels to go green while

bar snakes through the centre of the venue. Punters

maintaining luxurious levels of service and style.

are served top-class drinks below soaring ceilings

Jhunjhnuwala believes his group to be ahead of the

while enormous fans beat out breezes under exposed





beams, revealing the building’s 100-year-old history. Below, miniature

aquafaba (chickpea water) in lieu of egg white in cocktails. And

trees in pots are slung with fairy lights, while pastel-pink coloured

much like the recent trend in restaurant menus, all of the cocktails

chairs, love seats and crimson armchairs are surrounded by bold

at Alibi are given a name before being presented as a detailed list of

artworks of plants and fruits.

ingredients. ‘Stranded’ blends gin botanicals with orange blossom and

Sydneysiders will affirm that Alibi blends the very best of their city in

aloe vera. It only contains one shot of alcohol (Star of Bombay gin)

one delicious and healthy mix: a wonderful view, relaxed vibe and top

and is pre-batched before being served at the table in a test tube, from

tipples – added to which, Sydney’s Harbour Bridge and Opera House

which guests pour the liquid into a coupette glass with edible flowers

are both just a ten-minute walk away through Royal Botanic Gardens.

and orange bergamot peel, producing a fruity and fragrant sip.

The healthy restaurant concept is reflected in the bar menu, with

The oriental ‘Mr Miyagi’, by contrast, is served in an iron teapot

mouthwatering eats such as kimchi dumplings with sesame and ginger

with a jasmine jet stream; cleverly concealed in the pot is Grey Goose

foam, kale pesto with almond ricotta, and an especially tasty hibiscus

infused with Buddha’s Tears tea, blue Curaçao and aloe vera. The

strawberry cheesecake with lime curd just some of the highlights,

result is light and aromatic, its subtle tea flavour marrying perfectly

overseen by Group Executive Chef Kasper Christensen, who also has

with orange notes. The vermouth-driven drink is backed up with Bison

Noma’s Sydney pop-up on his resumé.

Grass vodka and a pinot grigio reduction, cinnamon, star anise and

A comprehensive drinks list includes cocktails designed to match

clove. Fresh green apples are added to the mix and poached until they

the plant-based menu; Bar Manager David Green is responsible for

fall apart, then frozen into ice cubes. A homemade lime and apple

whisking up the stellar concoctions. He’s the inventor of a cocktail

smoke fills the glass and completes the show; lifting the lid reveals

repertoire dreamed up with a unique experience in mind that is

sweet and aromatic scents while every sip displays the perfect marriage

likely to include healthy ingredients such as beetroot and aloe vera

of vermouth and spiced wine reduction.

with sprigs of fresh herbs. It might well come in a hollowed-out

Kenney, who continues to pioneer plant-based cuisine via his

pineapple: “The drinks take inspiration from key elements of molecular

restaurants and entrepreneurial pursuits around the globe, is confident

gastronomy,” he says. “They look visually appealing while tasting good

that Alibi will be well-received by both Sydney locals and visitors.

and still being approachable.”

“Some venues don’t have all the components – they might have great

Meanwhile, the wine list by former sommelier of the year and wine book author Chris Morrison, features a selection of smaller Australian

food but not atmosphere, for example,” he says of the competition. “But I think Alibi has everything.”

producers alongside offerings from more well-known wineries. Carrying on the theme, the bar uses vegan ingredients such as

IN A BITE Covers: 60 • Owner: Hind Group • Operator: Ovolo Hotels • Interior Design: Hassell • Group Executive Chef: Kasper Christensen • Executive Producer: Matthew Kenney • Bar Manager: David Green • Wine Sommelier: Chris Morrison


Wine and Design The new crop of design-led hotels making waves within the wine tourism industry.

Words: Lauren Ho


ver since Beringer Vineyards, one of the original wineries in Napa Valley, became the first to offer public tours in the 1930s, wine tourism has been on the rise. So much so, that 2016 saw 3.5 million visitors spend a whopping US$1.9 billion in the region alone.

In fact, with direct-to-consumer sales now accounting for 60% of an

American winery’s revenue – according to a report recently published by Silicon Valley Bank – it’s hardly surprising that the industry is continuously upping its game. Case-in-point: V. Sattui, one of Napa Valley’s most visited wineries for its legendary deli, vast picnic grounds and old-world Italian charm, has recently introduced a dedicated concierge service to provide guests with a tailored itinerary, while Michelin star chef Stefano Masanti is on call full-time for weddings and special events. South Africa’s Spier winery, meanwhile, offers no fewer than four restaurants, downloadable VoiceMap walks, guided Segway tours, a craft market, an artisan studio, a spa and a hotel. And while a vineyard with a hotel is not exactly new, a crop of smaller, more intimate wineries are shaking things up in their own way with distinct design-led offerings that focus on the destination, providing a refreshing alternative to traditional winery escapes.



North of Melbourne in a remote slice of Victorian countryside, Mitchelton Estate has after 48 years finally launched its hotel. This is thanks to its new proprietors, businessman Gerry Ryan and his son Andrew, who took the plunge to complete the original owner’s masterplan to transform the venue into an international tourist destination. “Knowing there was a hotel in the initial plans planted the seed,” says Andrew Ryan. “But it was always clear to us that there is a gap in the region for a hotel of this level and sophistication.” Indeed, a no-brainer for the Ryans who not only took the opportunity to boost the estate’s current offer, but – in looking to draw the discerning Melbourne crowd – went one step further by tasking local firm Hecker Guthrie for the design. “I have always appreciated the way Hecker Guthrie focuses on simplicity, materials and textures,” remarks Ryan. The result is a slick, low-slung addition that slots seamlessly among the estate’s existing 1960s Robin Boyd-designed buildings, which includes the iconic 55-metre watchtower. Inside, the design takes its cues from the landscape, wielding a contemporary palette of dark greys, bottle greens and mushroom browns that is revealed through natural materials like rough-hewn timber, linen curtains and wool rugs. These are tempered with sleek marble surfaces, polished plaster walls, oversized modern furnishings, and equestrian-themed photography by local artist Trevor Main. “I hope visitors to Mitchelton Estate gain a sense of discovery from the experience and leave with a better understanding and appreciation of the wines that we produce,” says Ryan. In Napa Valley, the 68-room Las Alcobas – part of Marriott International’s Luxury Collection – is spread over three acres and includes a grand 1905 Georgian-style pile; it has a similar design outlook with a casual, easy aesthetic courtesy of Yabu Pushelberg. Briefed by owner Samuel Leizorek to create a “home that will leave guests with a lasting impression”, the designers outfitted the spaces with Above & Opposite: Las Alcobas in the heart of the Napa Valley features 68 guestrooms overlooking the vineyard • Previous Page: Mitchelton Estate has been transformed into an international tourist destination

clean, modern finishes in natural tones, organic materials such as oak, stone sinks and marble, and custom furniture. Also featuring a saltwater pool, a 3,500ft2 spa and a number of guestrooms with private fire pits and alfresco tubs, Las Alcobas is noteworthy not just for being the first luxury resort to debut in Napa Valley in close to a decade, but more importantly for being the only hotel directly overlooking a vineyard. And just for good measure, it’s one of the area’s oldest and most coveted vineyards too. Another property making waves is Sacromonte Landscape Hotel, set within the wild sierras of Maldonado in Uruguay just north of the resort city of Punta del Este. Alongside wine tasting, nature and wildlife come to the fore here, with activities including wildlife viewing via infrared binoculars, hiking, and guided flora and fauna tours where guests receive a coffee-table book on the region’s vegetation. To make the most of the setting, Brazilian and Uruguayan



studio MAPA Architects has gently inserted 13 cabins – or

bird watching, stargazing, hot-air ballooning and horse

‘shelters’ – into the property’s 100 acres of grasslands

riding among others. Of course, wine and food complete the

and vineyards. “MAPA went far beyond just designing the

package, with a chef’s workshop that is paired with behind-

shelters,” says Edmond Borit, the hotel’s founder. “They

the-scenes winemaking. “We make wine traditionally,” say

realised the value of the scenery and created a masterplan

the duo. “That means guests can participate in every step

to boost it.” As such, the cabins are clad with one-way

of the wine-making process, from selecting and harvesting

mirrors that reflect the landscape and create an effective

the grapes to stomping them with their feet.”

camouflage while also providing 180-degree views of the

No longer a pastime aimed at mainly male consumers

surrounding valleys and hills. “I didn’t want to build a

already in the know, one thing is clear: the wine tourism

château or copy another place’s architecture like Tuscany,”

market is positively booming. The catalyst? The millennial,

says Borit. “It was important we had our own identity.”

that well-read and well-travelled, upwardly mobile

In the heart of Portugal’s Alentejo, meanwhile, Torre

figure whose spending patterns have brought seismic

de Palma Wine hotel is set on the hotel’s 14th-century

changes throughout the hospitality industry. In some

vineyard within the remains of a house that dates back

quarters, the old guard has responded by introducing

to 1338. “It was the passion for the history, gastronomy,

theme park wineries, but the smart money is on those

wine and a sky full of stars that led us to embark on this

smaller, independent vineyards that are tapping into the

project,” say owners and first-time hoteliers Ana and Paulo

surrounding destination and landscape in a much more

Barradas Rebelo. Certainly, their enthusiasm for the region

considered fashion. As Ana and Paulo say: “More often than

is apparent in all aspects of the hotel, from the interiors

not, we are seeing people wanting to escape the crowds,

by designer Rosarinho Gabriel that are scattered with local

looking for unique experiences, so wine tourism is the

knick-knacks to the activities on offer which include guided

perfect answer.”


Burgundy Nights With Burgundy’s wine culture becoming an increasingly exclusive treat, how can the region’s hoteliers keep guests engaged while honouring tradition and legacy?

Words: Nina Caplan


s prices of Burgundy wines climb and the

for the Eucharist and, probably, for the long hours between

billionaires move in like sharks sensing blood, the

masses. Both are great stories to hook potential visitors,

region’s hotels are facing a dilemma. On the one

but only one fits well with stratospheric pricing. So how can

hand, the interest of Francois Pinault of luxury

Burgundian hoteliers, particularly at the higher end, make

conglomerate Kering, and Bernard Arnault of LVMH – who now own neighbouring vineyards for which both paid eye-

There seem to be two answers to this question. One is to

watering prices – has probably broadened the appeal of this

alert people to the aspects of Burgundy they don’t know;

beautiful swathe of France beyond lovers of fine wine; on

the other is to give them access to those they want to know

the other hand, it is a symptom of the dizzying rise in the

better. In northern Burgundy, the Château de Resle can

price of those very bottles – and buying land at over €13

organise wine-tasting in Chablis – which most visitors

million an acre, as Pinault is believed to have done with

will have heard of – but also in Saint-Bris-le-Vineaux or

Clos de Tart, is hardly likely to halt that rapid ascent.

Irancy, two villages that are making excellent if underrated

The trouble is that Burgundy has always been famous for


their unique selling point actually sell?

wines. In Burgundy, famous for chardonnay and pinot

its ‘peasant’ style: small domaines run by the same family

noir, Saint Bris has the distinction of being the only place

for generations, and wines that taste – in the best possible

to make wine from sauvignon blanc, while the pinot in

sense – of the farmyard. The outlook and practice here is

Irancy is often blended with a barely-known grape called

entirely different from Bordeaux, where fairytale châteaux

césar. Some visitors might be interested in this sort of

overlook enormous estates and the prestige (and price) of

detail, others might just like to try some wines they can’t

the wines has been carefully structured since at least the

find at home. Either way, the easeful welcome in these

Bordeaux classification of 1855. Bordeaux’s fame began

wineries, to say nothing of the wine pricing structure, has

with royalty: Eleanor of Aquitaine brought the region’s

little in common with the politely but firmly closed doors

jewel to England upon her marriage to King Henry II.

of the great wineries of the Côte d’Or. As Diana Seysses

Burgundy is historically associated with the church, and the

of Domaine Dujac says, they used to sell to people who

monks who tended these plots for centuries making wine

drove up to the gate, but now “we can’t make enough wine





for people who have an allocation, much less the general

Guide; the chef Alexandre Dumaine was a huge star, and

public.” A nice predicament to have, but clearly less than

everyone from Rita Hayworth to Charlie Chaplin stopped

helpful for hotels whose guests are expecting to visit

here en route to the south to eat his food. The place

legendary vineyards.

declined after he retired in 1964 – an early indication of

There are exceptions, such as Château de Meursault, or

the drawback of a celebrated chef – but was revived in the

Bouchard Père et Fils in Beaune. These domaines have a

1980s by Loiseau whose place within the vanguard of a new

proper tourist operation: tours and a shop. But wine-lovers

breed of chef-patrons was assured by his celebrity status

who want to sit in a cellar and taste with the person who

and lines of eponymous products. Then came disaster: in

made the wines will have more luck up north or down

2003, the rumour that he was to lose his third star impelled

south where the wines of the Côte Chalonnaise or the

Loiseau to take his own life.

Maconnais, while often perfectly decent, are also far less

His widow held onto the hotel; she still owns it. These

coveted than those in between. There are plenty of smaller,

days it has two Michelin stars and a brand-new spa,

unpretentious hotels here like the Val d’Or in a former

and far from being a relic of the region’s glory days, it

coach-house in Mercurey, the most important village (that

is demonstrating how Burgundy can turn its wonderful,

is, the one making the best wine) in the Côte Chalonnaise.

inaccessible wines to best advantage. Between reception and

Or, wine-lovers can visit the Côte d’Or but resign

restaurant sit four elegant Enomatic machines, enclosed

themselves to bypassing the famous names. This is the

in bespoke cabinets. Inside are 32 open wines, kept fresh by infusions of nitrogen, allowing diners or hotel guests to

“Drinking by the glass you respond to the different flavours and aromas, it’s an intellectual experience as well as a gastronomic one.” Eric Goettelmann, Loiseau des Vignes

sample by the glass. The surrounding room is a celebration of Burgundy’s vinous glory, the walls decorated with panels showing the Côte d’Or’s different soils, the bar by the open fireplace stocked with international spirits plus the digéstif of a Burgundy-lover’s dreams: 1992 marc (the spirit made from distilling pulped wine grapes) from the most legendary vineyard of all, Domaine de la Romanée Conti. In 2007, when Madame Loiseau opened her Beaune

other lesser-known aspect of the region: smaller wineries,

restaurant Loiseau des Vignes attached to the Le Cep

many of which have rooms including some very luxurious

hotel (which she doesn’t own), her Director of Wine Eric

ones. In Santenay, one of the first villages of the Côte de

Goettelmann suggested a wall of Enomatics to showcase in

Beaune (the northern half of the Côte d’Or, above the Côte

every sense the best of the area’s wines. “It really changes

de Nuits), the Prosper Maufoux château has three beautiful

everything,” says Goettelmann, who has worked for the

bedrooms; in Beaune, the other side of the road from the

Loiseau family since 2000 and now oversees all of their

medieval walls of the city, Les Jardins de Loïs is a gorgeous

venues, which include a Paris restaurant and a wine bar and

four-bedroom chambres d’hôtes whose genial owner

restaurant in Dijon. “Drinking by the glass, you respond

Philippe Dufouleur takes guests down to the cellar for a

to the different flavours and aromas. It’s an intellectual

tasting of his high-quality and excellently priced wines.

experience as well as a gastronomic one.”

Places like this are dotted around the region and they,

It’s also an unparalleled way to explore a region like

along with the bigger hotels, can always point guests in

Burgundy, if the hotel has the kind of allocations that this

the direction of the nearest wine shop for the purchase of

one does. When Loiseau des Vignes opened, Goettelmann

bigger names – those with any wine available, that is.

put Domaine de la Romanée Conti 2002 in the machines. It

But there is another way to experience the wines of

sold out in two days, to wine lovers happy to pay €45 for

Burgundy, and it is one particularly suited to hoteliers:

a small glass of something they would never otherwise get

wine by the glass. This has been the solution for one of

to drink at all. Goettelmann is not narrow in outlook, and

Burgundy’s most interesting hotels, a place that has been

Relais Bernard Loiseau is a rare top-end French restaurant

exemplary of Burgundy’s hospitality problems and the

whose sommeliers are well-versed in the world outside

means of addressing them for nearly 100 years: Relais

France. To sit in the centre of this exceptional region,

Bernard Loiseau in Saulieu. In the 1930s, when everyone

sipping great Burgundy lovingly paired with wonderful

drove from Paris to the coast, this was one of the first

dishes, is an experience of terroir that few other parts of the

places to gain three stars from the newly-minted Michelin

world can match.


The Architecture of Glass As wine connoisseurs look for new ways to enjoy their favourite tipple, glassware design is increasingly going beyond aesthetics to shape perceptions of taste.

Words: Ben Thomas • Photography: Courtesy of Riedel


n 1959, Professor Claus J. Riedel created the world’s first grape-varietalspecific glass, the Riedel Burgundy Grand Cru. It remains a watershed moment for the glassware industry; much-needed recognition that the bouquet, taste, balance and finish of wine are affected by the shape of the glass.

Collaborating with experienced tasters and wine producers, Riedel famously

held samplings and test workshops designed to develop a glass shape that enhanced the taste and aroma of specific grape varieties and discovered that wine consumed from these glasses – created solely to augment flavour and aroma – showed more depth and greater balance. The groundwork was laid and functional wine tools were born, each crafted according to the Bauhaus design principle: form follows function. “Wine lovers often critique wine by its colour, bouquet and taste, but the glass – which is the instrument used to convey the wine’s message – was not considered,” explains Maximilian J. Riedel, 11th generation CEO and President.

“Riedel was the first to recognise that one wine displayed completely different characteristics when served in different glasses; there were such stark differences that even experienced connoisseurs were led to believe that they were tasting different wines.”



“A glass should be to a wine as a speaker is to music – it should present every subtle element and nuance, every detail, in the best way possible.” Steve McGraw, Riedel UK

Today, the family-owned Austrian brand continues to operate under the same design principles. Maximilian – along with his father George – regularly venture out to vineyards, wineries and cellars to find producers and tasters with knowledge of specific grape varieties, before tasking their in-house technicians with engineering new glassware shapes. Steve McGraw, Managing Director of Riedel UK, explains: “When we design a glass, it always involves a sensory workshop with the aim of presenting the beverage to our senses; smell, taste, touch, and sight – in a way that enhances the experience. A glass should be to wine as a speaker is to music – it should present every subtle element and nuance, every detail, in the best way possible.” Delving into the science of glassware design, it is important to consider functionality ahead of aesthetics. Stemware consists of three parts: base, stem and bowl. The width of the base and the height of the stem form the glass design, also known as the architecture. The shape of the bowl, on the other hand, influences the experience of a wine, including how the aroma hits the nose and how taste is perceived. Grape-varietal-specific stemware features finely tuned glass bowls with variable shapes, sizes and rim diameters, which convey a wine’s unique characteristics to the human senses. Size primarily controls how much air is in contact with the wine, while the shape determines how the liquid flows to the opening, and the rim’s diameter affects the speed of the flow and how it lands on the palate. These variables also affect how much oxygen can reach the wine and in turn how much it can breathe, as well as the space available for the nose. The direction that a wine enters the mouth has a part to play too, defining which tastebuds the liquid is directed to first. Optimal design can enhance fruitier notes and yet, with many glasses, bitter or acidic components are often over-accentuated. “Big wines must have big glasses, you cannot imprison them,” stresses Riedel. Red wine, for example, benefits from a wide bowl as the shape allows for its fruity structure to breathe. The exposure to oxygen mellows strong flavours and heightens bolder essences, providing the chance to indulge in aromas for maximum immersion. Taste may be subjective, but scientists at The Institute of Biomaterials & Bioengineering at Tokyo Medical & Dental University recently set out to bring some academic rigour to the process of understanding how glassware affects appreciation of wine. Using sniff-cam, an imaging device that maps the distribution of ethanol vaporising from various shapes, Professor Kohji Mitsubayashi trialled three types of glass – wine, straight and cocktail. The same volume of wine was poured into each glass, and examined at a temperature of 13 degrees Celsius. The study revealed a ring-shaped



vapour pattern on the edges of the wine glass which,

grape with which to be used – including Old World Pinot

Mitsubayashi explains, allows consumers to appreciate

Noir, Oaked Chardonnay and the Champagne Wine Glass

the aroma without the smell of ethanol interfering – an

– to cater for growing variations in the market. Likewise,

interference that is noticeably more prominent in straight

the Dog decanter was presented in February with a concave

and cocktail glasses. This groundbreaking research suggests

profile that assists with the decanting process, helping to

that shape does in fact matter, and has only served to

oxygenate the wine and improve the flavour profile.

reinforce Riedel’s view. Expressing its stance on champagne flutes, the

By considering its products as wine tools, or vessels that unlock the characteristics of the accompanying grape

company notes that traditionally narrow glasses are one-

variety, Riedel is remaining true to its core beliefs. The

dimensional, and floor the drinker’s ability to appreciate

260-year-old glassmaker has shown time and again that

aromas and taste profiles. As a result, the Veritas series

the architecture of a wine glass plays a key role in engaging

was born, a champagne wine glass featuring a larger rim

different senses in the experience of drinking. As Riedel

diameter that enables scent to be released in a manner that

concludes: “Grape variety is a key factor that determines

is impossible with a slim flute.

the style of wine and the relationship between the fruit,

Responding to consumer behaviours is nothing new to

alcohol, acidity and tannins. With this understanding,

Riedel, and its latest works are a signifier of the desire

Riedel continues to investigate the complex role that the

for customers of all experience levels to enhance their

size and the shape of a glass can play, discovering that the

understanding of wine. In 2017, the brand presented its first

flow dynamic, shape of the glass and size of the rim dictates

decorative grape-varietal range, Fatto a Mano. The series

how and where the wine is delivered and how our palate

was launched in six bowl shapes, each named after the

then perceives it.”



Frapin 1270 Cognac Frapin With versatility at its core, Frapin 1270 is the latest creation by historic drinks producer Cognac Frapin. The Frapin family traces its roots in south-west France back to 1270, where it started out as a winegrower before moving into distillation. This new cognac is designed to provide a snapshot of the family’s 593-acre single-estate vineyard at the heart of Cognac’s most exclusive region, Grande Champagne. Frapin 1270 is distilled over the fine lees and subject to extended ageing in ground-level humid cellars, which ensures greater evaporation of alcohol than water resulting in a rounder and fruitier taste. The whole process from vineyard to bottle is controlled on the Frapin estate by Cellar Master Patrice Piveteau. The finished product is ideally suited to spur-of-the-moment aperitifs served over ice, as a long drink when mixed with tonic or sparkling water, or as a base for cognac cocktails. It comes in a slimline bottle that requires minimal space on the back bar and features an elegant, understated label in keeping with the brand’s distinguished heritage. A beautiful golden hue, Frapin 1270 displays vine and lime blossom with a hint of vanilla on the nose. And the carefully managed production process guarantees a pleasing fruitiness touched with freshness on the palate.



Black Southern Comfort Boldly combining a robust new whiskey profile with creator MW Heron’s iconic fruits and spices, Southern Comfort Black aims to appeal to a new generation of spirits drinkers seeking provenance and authenticity. At 40% ABV, the spirit has a slightly higher alcohol content than the 35% ABV Southern Comfort Original. Its creator is Drew Mayville, Master Blender at New Orleans-based drinks giant Sazerac, which bought the Southern Comfort brand from the producer of Jack Daniel’s in a US$543m deal in March 2016. Southern Comfort Black has launched into the UK under the strapline ‘for those who want their smooth Southern Comfort BOLD’. Dan Bolton, Managing Director of Hi-Spirits, which is responsible for the brand in the UK market, says that it “puts whiskey right back at the heart of the brand’s proposition”. He adds: “The new ‘Spirit of New Orleans’ positioning launched last year has brought Southern Comfort back to its roots, and while Southern Comfort Original has a strong customer following who enjoy it in a broad range of drinks, Southern Comfort Black will specifically appeal to those looking for a bold whiskey profile, whether they enjoy it straight, on the rocks, or in whiskey-forward cocktails and mixed drinks.”


The Kelly Hoppen by Brintons collection brings the designer¹s unparalleled eye for trend-leading design to the commercial carpet sector. Consisting of 13 geometric and organic designs in on-trend colourways, the collection reflects the designer¹s award-winning design style and pared back aesthetic. Kelly Hoppen took inspiration from diverse influences ranging from geometric shapes to elements found in everyday surroundings such as cracks in a pavement and splashes of paint.

Suitable for a wide variety of hospitality applications including hotels, casinos, cruise ships and airports, each Kelly Hoppen by Brintons design can be customised and is woven to order in a full range of specifications. Whichever direction is chosen, Brintons’ highly skilled design team will help to adapt the concept to ensure it matches the creative brief perfectly while complying with all the practical requirements.

W W W. B R I N TO N S . N E T

KH Advert - Supper Mar 2018.indd 1

14/03/2018 17:18



Tributo 2018

Grand Blanc de Noirs

Havana Club

Champagne Gosset

Havana Club has unveiled the first prestige Cuban rum to be finished in smoky whisky casks. The 40% ABV expression, Havana Club Tributo 2018, has a limited release of 2,500 bottles globally. Showing oloroso sherry, toffee and cinnamon on the nose, it initially boasts a soft and rich taste that evolves through fruit cake, dark chocolate and winter spice before ending with a dry, structured and exceptionally long finish overlaid with slightly bitter notes of smoke, seaweed and iodine. The new rum is the third instalment in Havana Club’s Tributo collection, a series of annual releases that pay tribute to the different elements of the spirit’s production process.

The first Gosset to be made exclusively from Pinot Noir grapes, Grand Blanc de Noirs has undergone nine years of cellar ageing and exhibits a nose of white fruit, a hint of patisserie and touches of white peach and baked apple. The cuvée’s palate is supple and balanced, revealing notes of honey, beeswax and confit citron, followed by a fresh, lively finish with a salty and iodine tang. Featuring a gold-flecked appearance and fine mousse, the wine is a tribute to the Pinot Noir used in other Gosset products, and balances the intensity of aromas and finesse to allow its fruity structure to express light and freshness.

Let us serve you with a personal service inspired by perfection

Experts in providing customised design solutions for a variety of food service environments. BANQUETING | IN ROOM DINING | RESTAURANT | LUXURY CASUAL | AFTERNOON TEA

Makers of fine bone china since 1750 ROYAL CROWN DERBY

194 OSMASTON ROAD, DERBY, DE23 8JZ, ENGLAND Customer Service/Sales: +44(0) 1332 268 901 Fax: +44 (0) 1332 712 863 Email:

EVENTS Key events in the global hotel F&B calendar

Forty-One Madison

Boutique + Lifestyle Hotel Summit

The Hotel Show

10-13 April

21-22 May

16-18 September

New York



To The Table Europe

Bar Convent Brooklyn

Bar Convent Berlin

16-18 April

12-13 June

8-10 October





Imbibe Live

To The Table Asia

24-27 April

2-3 July

9-11 October



Kuala Lumpur


Tales of the Cocktail

Forty-One Madison

19-22 May

17-22 July

9-12 October


New Orleans

New York


Table 14-16 January 2018 London The inaugural Table event took place at Olympia’s historic Pillar Hall in

Professor Charles Spence of the University of Oxford and Jozef Youssef of

January, connecting luxury tableware suppliers and industry professionals

Kitchen Theory explained how experience is the new cultural currency,

with senior-level buyers in an ambitious new addition to the hospitality

and Studio Appetit’s Ido Garini charted the choppy waters of change,

events calendar.

challenging the audience to think about new ways of dining. Simon

Table 2018 featured a carefully curated selection of exhibitors including Wedgwood, Dartington Crystal, Figgjo, Mepra, Royal Worcester, William

Rawlings of David Collins Studio, and British product designer Nick Munro were also among the speakers.

Edwards England and Italesse, while Alessi presented recently developed

The event received a warm reception from senior figures within the

ranges, Goodfellows displayed collections from new designers, and

sector. Lydia Forte said that “it is great to finally have something like this

Studio William demonstrated how craft and originality can work together

in London”, while Ido Garini welcomed the opportunity to participate in

across its varied product offering. Exhibitors were able to showcase their

“an event that caters so well to the area I work in and also to be in the

collections and latest innovations to buyers from the likes of AccorHotels,

company of such an impressive line-up of peers as part of Table Talk”.

Rocco Forte Hotels and purchasing firm Benjamin West across the threeday trade-only event. Meanwhile, the Table Talk seminar programme featured leading figures from the F&B sector discussing everything from designing for millennials to the future of food across a series of panels and presentations. Designers Afroditi Krassa, Tina Norden of Conran + Partners, and Tim Mutton of Blacksheep highlighted the tribal nature of hospitality,

Table was presented alongside the established lifestyle show Top Drawer, which brings together brands in the worlds of home, gift, fashion and culture with retailers and contract buyers globally. Besides Table and Top Drawer, Clarion Events’ retail portfolio also includes Pulse, Home & Gift, Scotland’s Trade Fair, the Internet Retail Expo and the Internet Retail Conference. Following Table’s launch in 2018, plans are already afoot for the next course in January 2019.

encouraging operators to think less about demographics and more about the character of concepts. Elsewhere, chef Neil Rankin of Temper London,



Hotelympia 5-8 March 2018 London The last ever Hotelympia in its current guise took place at ExCeL London

the live signing of a Diversity in Hospitality, Tourism & Leisure charter,

in March ahead of the hospitality and foodservice event’s comprehensive

which seeks to accelerate the process of gender inclusivity in the industry.

rebrand for 2020, with a host of new stages and immersive features proving popular with delegates this time around.

Following this year’s event, Hotelympia has rebranded as the Hotel, Restaurant & Catering show (HRC) in a move that marks a return to its

Among the key additions for 2018 were The Foodservice Show, The

original 1935 identity and drops the reference to its previous home Olympia.

Professional Kitchen Show, The Hospitality Tech Show, and The Interiors

HRC will also switch from running across four days in 2018 to three days

& Tableware Show, all of which served to spell out Hotelympia’s offer

in 2020. The comprehensive rebrand is designed to bring greater clarity

to industry professionals. New feature stages Hospitality Futures, The

for would-be attendees and further reinforce the event’s relevance to the

Launch Pad and Café Commerce also added a clear point of difference, with

entire hospitality and foodservice sector. Organiser Fresh Montgomery has

seminars covering everything from Brexit and breaking the class ceiling to

already reported record exhibitor reservations for HRC as it continues to

the rise of delivery and dining in the digital age.

evolve and refine the show’s offer, which includes introducing a hosted

Elsewhere, Hotelympia partnered with SquareMeal on The Ultimate

buyer scheme. The event is scheduled to take place from 2-4 March 2020.

Dining Experience, which examined the hospitality needs of today’s

Ross Carter, Fresh Montgomery Portfolio Director, says: “Without doubt

consumers. Working with design, project management and development

the changes we sought to implement to the 2018 show have paid off for

company LXA, this thought-provoking experiential feature brought to life

our exhibitors, who were able to connect with more quality delegates than

the results of UK-wide research exploring diner preferences across areas

ever before. We as organisers have been delighted with the response to

such as lighting, music, menus, artwork and front-of-house uniforms.

plans to further focus the show offer, and this is reflected in the wave of

Moreover, a whole day was dedicated to inspirational female figures

stand reservations.”

in hospitality as the show marked International Women’s Day with a programme of progressive discourse and mentoring sessions. This included


Global Restaurant Investment Forum 12-14 March 2018 Dubai


The fifth edition of the Global Restaurant

F&B pioneers

food hall across Europe and the US, sharing the

Investment Forum (GRIF) powered by Michelin

The three-day event featured an impressive

lessons learned from the first Time Out Market,

brought together more than 320 investors,

array of high-profile F&B speakers. Hakkasan

which opened in Lisbon in 2014.

owners, franchisors and senior hospitality

Group CEO Nick McCabe talked about how the

professionals in the opulent surroundings of

company spent a full year conducting market

Hotel F&B under the microscope

Palazzo Versace Dubai to discuss issues such as

research to understand consumer perceptions

The hotel sector was well-represented on panels

investment, the casual dining crunch and how to

of the brand, which revealed that customers

such as ‘Putting Gastronomy into your DNA’,

develop strong F&B concepts.

expected good food and service as standard at

a fascinating session that featured Maarten

This year’s showpiece organised by Bench

its restaurants, but what they valued most was

Markus, NH Hotel Group Managing Director for

Events witnessed the introduction of an

the overall experience. Fast-forward to today

Northern Europe, and Chris Naylor, Executive

international members’ network for the

and the phrase that best defines the brand is

Chef of the Michelin-starred Restaurant Vermeer

restaurant investment industry, GRIF Society,

“cinematic energy”, he explained, before adding

at NH Collection Amsterdam Barbizon Place.

with a series of events planned in London,

that “we think about Hakkasan as being about all

NH Hotel Group has no fewer than 13 Michelin

Dubai, Nairobi and Riyadh over the coming

five senses, not just taste”.

stars and Markus admitted that “sometimes it’s

months. The Dubai Restaurant Industry Think

Elsewhere, hospitality entrepreneur Robin

hard to control the chefs and their expenses” but

Tank was also launched at GRIF. Incubated under

Rowland talked candidly about how private

pointed out that if the group didn’t splash out on

the GRIF Society initiative, it is conceived as

equity helped him grow YO! Sushi from three

creating Michelin-starred restaurants, it would

an independent members’ forum to represent,

restaurants to almost 100 despite the occasional

have to spend much more on marketing and PR

support, educate and promote industry players

bump along the road, while Time Out Market

to achieve a similar effect.

and shape the agenda in the years ahead.

CEO Didier Souillat discussed the revival of the

There was also plenty of food for thought


in the ‘Business Models for Hotel F&B’ panel,

in evidence than in the GRIF Deal Den, where

Downtown Hotel’s extensive F&B offering before

which explored partnership models between

ambitious entrepreneurs pitched their concepts

returning to Palazzo Versace for a live gig at Q’s

hotels, investors and operators. Christian

to a panel of dealmakers. Among the hopefuls

Bar and Lounge. The exclusive trip included a

Gradnitzer, Hilton’s Senior Director of F&B

getting the thumbs-up for their pitches were

sneak-peak of the eagerly anticipated Morimoto

Operations EMEA, stressed that different hotels

Ajay Kenth, Managing Director of street food

Dubai restaurant, from Japanese Iron Chef

have different requirements and there is no such

restaurant Zindiya, and ChatFood co-founder

Masahara Morimoto, which spans two floors and

thing as a one-size-fits-all approach, although

and CEO Benjamin Mouflard whose software

boasts four terraces, a bar, live teppanyaki and

as a rule “it takes commitment, time, money and

uses AI technology to help customers place

sushi counters.

effort to create your own concepts”. And Ryan

orders via Facebook Messenger and WhatsApp.

Hattingh, Partner of F&B consultancy Atelier

Pizza company Freedom Pizza also joined in

EPJ, argued in favour of specialising, declaring:

the deal-making by revealing that it would enter

Summing up the key takeaways from GRIF

“Let hoteliers run hotels, I wouldn’t know where

into a new joint venture with gourmet shawarma

2018 in his closing remarks, Think Hospitality

to start – but I run good restaurants.”

supplier Wild Peeta. And Ento Capital announced

Managing Director James Hacon noted that

Other highlights included Ashley Palmer-

a total of five deals for its F&B Private Equity

parts of the restaurant sector in places such

Watts, Chef Director of Dinner by Heston

Fund, including Peach Retail, Delice and Louis

as the UAE, the US and the UK have endured a

Blumenthal, in conversation with Red Pie

Restaurant & Café.

“tough time” of late, with many operators hit

Consulting Principal Peter Moody in the week

Closing remarks

by a range of factors including higher prices

that the fine-dining brand announced its Middle

GRIF on tour

for raw ingredients, rising staff costs and lower

East debut; Dinner will launch in Dubai’s Royal

Away from Palazzo Versace, delegates were

consumer spending. But he also saw reasons for

Atlantis Resort & Residences on Palm Jumeirah

given a taste of Dubai’s vibrant F&B scene on

optimism and challenged the industry to up its

in late 2019. The original Dinner opened in

the GRIF Culinary Tour, which took in Masti,

game by embracing technology, strategically

London in 2011 and quickly secured two Michelin

Sean Connolly at Dubai Opera, BB Social, Larte

developing brands, communicating better with

stars before expanding to Melbourne in 2015

and Molecule. Along the way they learned about

frontline staff and focusing more on customers.

but Palmer-Watts promised that there would

Dubai’s distinctive licensing laws – Masti for

“It’s time for innovators and smaller brands to

be no watering down of the concept in Dubai,

example is one of the city’s only licensed units

shine,” he concluded.

explaining that “we want to hit the same level

that isn’t part of a hotel – and the unique

Next year, GRIF swaps Dubai for Amsterdam.

at every location”.

challenges of running a brasserie in the cutting-

The forum’s sixth edition will run from 25-27

edge Dubai Opera building.

February 2019 at the Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky

Doing deals

In addition, Supper Consulting Editor Heleri

Plenty of business was done in Dubai over the

Rande hosted the GRIF Nightlife Tour, which

course of the forum and nowhere was this more

showed guests around Iris Dubai and Renaissance

in partnership with NH Hotel Group.



To The Table Europe

NRA Show

16-18 April 2018 Budapest

19-22 May 2018 Chicago

To The Table Europe – the decision-makers forum for the bar and

Approximately 66,000 foodservice professionals from around the world

restaurant industry – has announced its line-up for the forthcoming

are expected to descend on Chicago’s McCormick Place convention

event in Hungary.

centre for NRA Show 2018.

Taking place at Corinthia Grand Hotel Budapest, the forum brings

The four-day event, which bills itself as the international foodservice

together chefs, buyers and F&B directors from leading hospitality

marketplace, will bring the industry together to share innovations and

groups, with a host of supplier companies ranging from glass and

insights that are redefining the modern F&B space. Star chefs will

tableware to bar equipment. The packed programme comprises chef

pass on cooking techniques, recipes and secrets while discussing their

demonstrations, networking functions and one-to-one meetings, as

journeys to the top of the profession at the World Culinary Showcase,

well as a series of seminar sessions chaired by Supper’s Consulting

and drinks professionals will be able to pick up plenty of new tips and

Editor Heleri Rande.

tricks from the packed programme of bar stage demonstrations and

Erik Nissen Johansen, founder and Creative Director of Stylt Trampoli,

specialty features. There will also be two days of hands-on interactive

will discuss storytelling in F&B design, while a panel of professionals

workshops in the Foodamental Studio pavilion, as well as a new day-

tell all on restaurant ratings looking at TripAdvisor, Michelin stars and

long tasting open-house of products selected as Food & Beverage

every top-ten list in between. A seminar entitled ‘Redefining Luxury for

Innovation Award winners.

the Future of Restaurant Design’ will look at how restaurants and bars

On the show floor, attendees can participate in more than 50 free

can evolve their offer to appeal to a new generation of guests, and ask

educational sessions covering subjects from workforce development

what the future holds for luxury dining. Attendees will also hear from

and business operations to food, nutrition and beverages. Moreover,

Guy Heksch, Vice President of Pure Grey, part of Marriott International;

breakthrough products and emerging technologies will be displayed

René van Camp, Head of Restaurants & Bars Europe for InterContinental

in areas such as the Startup Alley, Tech Pavilion, Kitchen Innovations

Hotels Group; Jason Holley, Director of Universal Design Studio; and

Showroom, Innovation Hub, American Food Fair, Organic and Natural

Tim Mutton, founder and CEO of Blacksheep.

Pavilion, and Bellavita Italian Pavilion There will be additional

Confirmed buyers in attendance include representatives of AccorHotels, Blue Moon Hotels Procurement, Century Hotels Group, Hakkasan, Hyatt International, InterContinental Hotels Group, Marriott


networking opportunities on offer at the official after-party Restaurants Rock, the Young Professionals Party and the NRA Show Block Party. The NRA Show is open to all professionals involved in the restaurant,

International, Melia Hotels International, and Think Food Concepts.

foodservice and hospitality industries.


41Mad Supper Magazine LATE SPRING_Layout 1 3/1/18 12:48 PM Page 1




FUTURE SHOW DATES APRIL 2 – 5, 2019 OCTOBER 1– 4, 2019

America’s Permanent Address for Your Tabletop Needs Visit Us Daily – By Appointment BARWARE | CUTLERY | DINNERWARE | FLATWARE | SERVEWARE

41 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10010 • 212.686.1203 • • A Rudin Building



Showcasing the products and services that bring F&B venues to life

“It is craftsmanship for the 21st century, through all stages of production, with respect from the moment it’s sketched until the moment someone uses it.” Stefanie Hering, founder and CEO of Hering Berlin, on her approach to designing for the table.



White Gold Creating each porcelain object with respect, Hering Berlin has carved a place in the tableware market through expressive shapes and experiential designs.

Words: Kristofer Thomas • Photography: Courtesy of Hering Berlin


hen Stefanie Hering, founder and CEO

now permanent showroom, from which Hering

of porcelain manufacturer Hering

has exhibited her work since November 2017 while

Berlin, relocated to the German capital

hosting open-house visual art, craft and music events

in 1992, she sought a community of

alongside. Perhaps it’s unusual for a luxury tableware

open-minded people and a city quite literally without

brand to explore the medium’s relationship with

borders. “I’m a very receptive thinker, and I felt I

hypnotic techno, but this approach hints at a wider

needed to work in that kind of society,” she explains.

theme that characterises the work Hering Berlin

“Back then Berlin was the place to be, and it felt as if

produces. Part-way through our conversation, she

you could create anything you wanted.”

raises the concept of ‘gesamtkunstwerk’, a German

Twenty-six years on, we are sitting in her office

phrase conveying the idea that everything ties into

drinking tea served in a cup from the brand’s

a total work of art, the designs, shapes, events and

expansive Pulse collection and discussing the

ideas all extending from the same core. The porcelain

driving forces behind her studio’s success. “We are

cups we drink from may give guests something

functional but highly emotional,” she offers. “It is

physical to touch, but the experiences surrounding it

craftsmanship for the 21st century, through all stages

are of equal importance.

of production, with respect from the moment it’s sketched until the moment someone uses it.” A few doors down from the Potsdamer Straße office is the brand’s former pop-up gallery and

“I think the emotional aspect is particularly important, because the minute you touch people in that experiential way you can have them asking why they’d ever want to use anything else,” she notes.


“It’s not just making an object, it’s a language and a world; it has to be precise and beautiful in every detail. The guest has given their time and money to be there. It’s their evening, and we want to do that justice.”

Cutting her teeth as a trained porcelain craftswoman before pursuing

includes some 260 Michelin-starred chefs and hotels across the globe.

a master’s degree and studying design, Hering was drawn to the

The hotel market is of particular interest for the range of environments

material for its expressive natural qualities. Working predominantly

and scenarios that it produces, wherein, Hering interprets, her studio

with bisque porcelain – unglazed and with distinctive textures –

provides solutions as opposed to designs. “Here there is a dramaturgy

she admires its resilience and sustainability as well as the aesthetic

to create on the table,” she adds. From her perspective, hotel chefs

opportunities that it affords. She embarked on her “one-woman-

must consider narrative flow and spectacle, how the experience

show” in 1992 and now counts luxury restaurants, private connoisseurs

builds from plating to service and finally the dish itself. Tableware is

and leading hotels including One & Only Bahrain, W Hotel, Seoul and

an essential catalyst throughout, which all links back to the idea of

Hamburg’s The Fontenay among her clients. “All in all, it’s been 35

gesamtkunstwerk. “It’s not just making an object,” she says, “it’s a

years of passion,” she muses. “For me, the focus has always been on the

language and a world; it has to be precise and beautiful in every detail.

material and how it works. It’s necessary that there is a respect for it

The guest has given their time and money to be there. It’s their evening,

and the craft involved.”

and we want to do that justice.”

Since the beginning, respect has been the central philosophy around

All this feeds back into a key tenet of her work and portfolio: dialogue.

which Hering Berlin orbits, in the context of both design and approach.

Be that travelling to other countries to experience new dining cultures,

From the all-white Pulse collection to the light transmissive pattern

or fielding calls from clients requesting consultancy on which kind of

of Cielo, the white canvas against which designs are added often takes

vessel would best suit a specific tone, the dialogues at the heart of the

centrestage. “I do not want to cover it,” Hering explains. “I want to

collections see them absorb ideas from disparate sources. “They are

show the beauty of the earth.” Likewise, having grown up eating the

chefs, and they know exactly what to do, but I’m a designer as well as

fresh produce from her grandfather’s farm, she appreciates the work

an entrepreneur and I also know the same,” Hering explains. “It’s in the

that goes into making good food, and translates this into tableware that

dialogue between us that something new emerges.”

both reflects and respects the skill involved. Where the additions to the canvas may seem deliberately simple and

However, for all this inspiration, she often sees a universal element to her work, adding: “My shapes are sophisticated and international,

pointed – just a few dots of gold grace each piece in the Orbit collection

we can create trays for sushi or plates for chicken but the chefs will use

– the shapes and profiles of the tableware are the product of both

them differently from region to region. It’s fascinating to see.”

practical and cultural research. The cups we drink from have no handles,

Rather than launching new ranges every season or muddying the

an interpretation of eastern drinking culture, while saucers in the Pulse

portfolio with filler, the method so far has been to build new solutions

range feature a slightly thinner and taller base so that when the cups are

and ideas into the existing dozen core ranges. Working this way, Hering

placed down they collectively resemble a flower in blossom. Elsewhere,

Berlin has been able to create a wide variety of style-defining shapes,

the Granat collection’s carafe rises to the sky as a cresting wave, while

profiles and silhouettes within consistent languages, playing to the

Silent Iron takes an innovative approach that sees refined painting

market while exploring the possibilities of each collection, contributing

techniques applied to iconic shapes.

further to the emotive aspect of the designs.

Each object is the result of a method that eschews moulds in favour

In the gallery below – spacious and white, with the porcelain lined

of hand-shaped creation and physical connection to the material, to

up as individual objects on a table through the middle – Hering’s work

experience how it holds, functions and feels on the table and in use.

is laid out like artwork as opposed to traditional tableware sets and

“It should be immediately clear through the design that every object is

scenarios. I notice this, and comment on it as I leave. “We don’t sell

made entirely by hand to create the emotional effect,” she states. “This

dishes,” she concludes with a smile. “We sell beauty and concepts.”

is real, mindful luxury.” This respect extends to those she creates for; her list of clients





MEA 2017 Supper ad.qxp_Layout 1 01/09/2017 16:10 Page 2


uppliers of restaurant/bar/banqueting equipment and menu items who do business with Asia’s group-level hotel and restaurant decision makers, find TO THE TABLE Asia to be the most productive and valuable event in the industry calendar. Meet exclusively the most senior group-level heads of restaurants and bars for all properties across the Asia Pacific region. l Dedicated, pre-selected appointment schedule for each supplier, with your own private meetings and display area. l No stand-build, no exhibition, just highlevel 30-minute strategic meetings with Asia’s top F&B industry leaders. l Three evenings of top class networking dinner functions, with fantastic F&B, to cement your new relationships.

9–11 October 2018 Grand Hyatt, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Efficient, targeted, extremely cost effective! For details on all TO THE TABLE events, please see:

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Bon Bon Boxes Tina Frey

Following the launch of Tina Frey Design’s resin lidded boxes, the studio has expanded the available colours to encompass a series of vibrant multi-purpose storage boxes. Ranging from smaller containers for sugar cubes to larger furniture-sized versions, the collection is available in coffee- or side-table models with lids that open. Inspired by candy, colours include red, blue, yellow, pink and green.


Equinoxe Revol

Inspired by Asian aesthetics and named after the astronomic phenomenon, Equinoxe is a subtle constellation of plates offered in colourways of pepper, cirrus blue, cast-iron and cumulus white. Bearing a fine line engraved into enamel that traces their circumference, the plates reinvent and modernise the style of dim sum, and feature a cloche that can be used as a grill to emanate the aroma of dishes.





Referencing an oyster’s white pearl, Chic’s Perla series offers a combination of premium materials and contemporary design. Crafted from a formulation of SiloxiHT, the lightweight dinnerware blends quality ingredients to allow for a thinner, more translucent model. Boasting a glossy and organic round shape, the collection is specifically designed to be highly durable and hardwearing in response to feedback gathered from chefs and catering staff across Europe.

Combining traditional Japanese craftsmanship with cutting-edge design, Toyo Sasaki’s Fino range comprises a stackable glass that uses platinum tempered material across its surface to achieve maximum durability. With an elegant and light-in-the-hand design, the glass features a thin and smooth top, as well as a large but simple mouth design, and is intended for use across a variety of drinks from water and juice, to anything on the rocks.

Gamme Togo


Designed by Alain and Dominique Vavro, WNK’s Gamme Togo range is crafted from 18/10 stainless steel and evokes a playful and timeless demeanor. Featuring energetic and flowing curves, the tableware harmonises aesthetically with cuisines that are equally eclectic and vibrant. Available in a high-quality mirror-polished finish, the cutlery is contemporary and pared-down, and features elongated handles to provide comfort and ease of use.

Presented at Ambiente in Frankfurt, Bonna’s organic Vago series is designed to blend the different elements of casual dining together. Created specifically for the Horeca industry, the porcelain tableware forms part of the brand’s ivory white collection, and is presented with personalisation details. The foundation stone of the brand’s customised design strategy, Vago’s minimal aesthetic effectivley complements vibrant interior decors.

Aerts NV


Toyo Sasaki





Tafelstern The Eatery series by Tafelstern comprises bowls in an expansive selection of shades, shapes and patterns, including Gaiwan and Ramen models that provide alternatives to classic plates. Featuring a minimal design, the coupe plates, pourers and bowls in cream white create fine contrasts with the slender platters. Crafted from fine Noble China, all Eatery pieces can be combined with the brand’s Delight series, while bright and vibrant colourways are also offered for variant styles.


At each stage of service BEFORE

Intuitive preparation thanks to a unique touchscreen


Ease of use Measure management Optimal productivity


Preservation of open bottles Easy automatic cleaning Turnover monitoring

Taurus Hepp

Taurus is a steak cutlery set comprising a fork with pointed tines to ensure firm hold, and a sharp-bladed knife made from stainless steel. Dark wood-effect handles evoke rusticity, while the slightly curved shape of the knife provides an additional touch of elegance. To meet the demands of professional caterers, the cutlery handles are made from a combination of synthetic wood and plastic, which ensures that they are dishwasher safe.




Kelly Hoppen Brintons

Kelly Hoppen’s debut collection with Brintons showcases bold contemporary woven carpets for the contract market, introducing an aesthetic that eschews traditional swirl and block patterns. Inspired by a range of diverse influences, from graphic shapes to everyday surroundings, the collection comprises 13 geometric and organic designs in colourways that reflect the designer’s East–meets–West style and vibrant aesthetic.




Drift Tea

The latest addition to John Jenkins’ Atlantic collection of specialist bar glasses, the six-inch Luxury Tasting Glass is entirely handmade and cut in crystal glass. Responding to the revival of old and rare bottlings of both cognac and whisky, the glass features a tall waisted shape that concentrates the bouquet. The glass also uses cut facets around the base to attract light and sparkle, heightening the colours that valuable spirits acquire during their maturing process.

Crafted from 18/10 stainless steel and hand polished to a light-reflecting mirror finish, Robert Welch’s Drift Tea collection features a sinuous cake stand as its centrepiece. Designed to give a sense of fluid movement, the stand presents a different shape from each angle and maximises both its ease of use in service and versatility across F&B spaces. The collection also includes two sizes of teapots, jugs and sugar pots, in addition to two sizes of tray.


Canopy by Hilton, Washington DC

Designed for the Coup Fine-Dining porcelain series, the Karma range from Seltmann Weiden adds functionality and ornamental value to the brand’s structured tableware series. Versatile and aesthetically refined, Coup Fine-Dining can create statements within banquet, buffet, table or event settings – with a flat organic form that evokes sophistication, and a minimalist elegance that acts as a perfect surface on which to present vibrant dishes.

To convey interior design firm Krause Sawyer’s concept for the USA’s first Canopy hotel, Kalisher collaborated with in-house curators and global fine artists to create a 3D wall concept spread across the dining area and surrounding banquette seating. To hone in on the local concept, a 25x8foot photograph was printed on reclaimed pine boards and paired with sculptural wirework as a nod to the historic fishing industry of Washington DC that forms part of The Wharf’s revitalisation.

John Jenkins

Seltmann Weiden

Robert Welch




LSA International With glassware defined by modern, steeped silhouettes and thick stems, LSA International’s Mixologist collection features a contemporary interpretation of the balloon glass – mouth-blown and generously shaped with a large bowl – as well as reimagined versions of classic glasses such as the martini, the highball and the tumbler. The range also comprises two cocktail jugs, stirrers and an ice bucket, plus wooden tools fitted with leather toggles and an ash wood cocktail table.




Copper Glow

Villeroy & Boch Crafted from dark copper in deep red hues, Villeroy & Boch’s Copper Glow series cultivates a sophisticated aesthetic while allowing for harmonious combinations with other tableware. The Copper Glow dÊcor is applied by hand over the rim using sweeping brushstrokes, resulting in a fine swirl effect that emphasises a distinct character and adds resistance to impact.





With a compact footprint that allows it to fit within smaller operations, the Bistro 4343 stone hearth oven has the capacity to produce pizzas, appetisers and entrees in an open-flame cooking environment. Featuring a painted black steel stand and a stainless wrapped oven chamber, as well as a three-inch-thick monolithic hearth and dome, the Bistro 4343 is available in gas-fired and wood-fired versions, or a combination of both, and is built from proprietary ceramic to withstand high temperatures.

Crafted from high-density bamboo panels, heavy duty casters and a vinyl-covered handle for easy and comfortable navigation, Mogogo’s Roll’n line of modern service carts are functional solutions for a variety of hospitality operations, from small to large dining settings. The elegant Cheese Plate & Wine Cart comes with a stainless steel rail, a cheese tray, leather towel hanger and a wine bottle holder, and evokes a quintessentially French aperitif experience.

Wp 1/1 Pro


Combining the advantages of the Beer hotplate with a supporting IR radiator, the new Wp 1/1 Pro uses a high-class tempered glass presentation surface and even heat distribution to keep dishes and beverages warm, as well as maintaining optimum food quality and illuminating presented products. Due to its compact design, the flexible system can be suitably deployed at buffets and seamlessly joined to multiple units.

La Cimbali’s Elective series features a compact design that comes together with a new Inverter motor, ensuring optimal use in small spaces. Its natural pairing is with the M100i machine, as part of the integrated Barista Drive System, but thanks to the built-in Bluetooth system it can also communicate with the LaCimbali M100, M39TE and M34 machines. The 4.3-inch touchscreen display allows for pre-programming and the adjustment of customisable Elective grinding settings.

Wood Stone

Beer Grill


La Cimbali




Inspired by elements of the natural landscape, Steelite’s Scape range offers muted colours of melamine reflecting the growing desire to merge indoor and outdoor dining experiences. Featuring ceramic components available in pure white and cool grey, as well as clear and smoked glass to add depth, the series takes an innovative multi-material approach to tableware and creates unique food presentation opportunities and multi-plating solutions.

Characterised by simplicity and modern lines, and produced using blowblow technology with laser treatment to the rims, Rona’s Mode Collection features wine glasses with square tapered bowls and long slender stems that accentuate a contemporary style. The Slovakian glassmaker has also launched a barware trio – specifically a highball, tumbler and shot glass – that channels modern design influences and is crafted from highquality crystalline glass.

Mix & Co


In collaboration with mixologist Flavio Angiolillo – the owner of Milanese clubs Mag, Backdoor 43 and 1930 – Vividi’s Mix & Co collection comprises a mixing glass and tumbler, and combines ergonomics with vintage design aesthetics. The mixing glass can be used for the preparation of several cocktails at once, mixed and cooled with ice as per the stir and strain technique, meeting the needs of bartenders while highlighting technical characteristics and glass quality.

Corby Hall’s Monaco series brings together a selection of well-balanced and premium forged 18/10 stainless-steel flatware, available in mirror or satin finishes. Among the standout features of the range, bump-outs on the knife help keep the blade elevated from the table to ensure maximum longevity. Forming part of the brand’s Continental collection, Monaco blends traditional and contemporary designs to introduce sophistication and simplicity to modern table arrangements.





Corby Hall




Comprising square and round casting chafers, Tiger’s new Artisan collection offers the comfort of home served by professionals. Crafted from ceramic-coated stainless steel and tempered glass, the 4.5-litre capacity chafers are available in sqaure or round models, and feature an inductive bottom and range of handle finishes from residential-style wooden tones to minimal blacks. An intuitive parked position further enhances convenience in buffet environments.

Using high-quality shell imitations arranged on a fibreglass base, Zieher’s Luxor series features shimmering displays in golden shades, while the polished sealing with Polyresin emphasises the pattern and pearlescent shine of the gold-coloured discs. Available in heights of 8, 16 and 24cm, the buffet cuboids are compatible with other Zieher systems, while a larger 38x38cm bearing surface can be used directly for presentation purposes or as a basis for buffet platters.

Bowls of Plenty


Responding to the Danish Hygge movement and the increasing importance of photogenic cuisine, Royal Doulton has launched its Bowls of Plenty collection, featuring contemporary shapes designed without a lip to enhance the framing of dishes. The ceramic tableware is hand dipped with rich translucent glazes including brown, black and beige, creating a visual, tactile and practical setting where texture and flavours stimulate a sensory experience.

Combining metallic surfaces with the grooved profile of the Twister glass series, Stölzle Lausitz’s new tumblers create striking light and colour effects. The German manufacturer fashions a black or white tumbler exterior, while the inside of the glass is painted with metal tones. The pieces can also be used as a form of decoration, with the metalliccoloured coating permanently applied to ensure maximum durability following intensive use.


Royal Doulton


Stölzle Lausitz


Where Hospitality is Redefined.

16 - 18 September 2018 Dubai World Trade Centre Meet your buyers at the region’s premier exhibition for the hospitality industry To book a stand please contact: or call +971 4 445 3627


THS 236x275 DUBAI ADVERT MARCH 2018.indd 1

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Absolut Elyx


Rona 053

Beer Grill


Royal Crown Derby


Bonna 020

Stรถlzle 049

Brintons 103

Studio William

Champagne Gosset


Tafelstern 010

Cognac Frapin


The Hotel Show Dubai

Corby Hall


Tiger 051

Earthborn Studios


Tina Frey


EuroCave 125

To The Table Asia 2018



To The Table MEA 2019


Toyo Sasaki Glass


Forty-One Madison Gruppo Cimbali Hering Berlin John Jenkins




006 & 007

Vetrerie Riunite



Villeroy & Boch


Kalisher 002

Walco 100


Wedgwood 139

LSA 075

WMF 044

Mogogo 113

WNK 073

Revol 047

Wood Stone Corporation

Lady & Butler

Robert Welch

004 & 005


Zieher 063



I’d Buy That for a Dollar

It sounds like the sort of place RoboCop would go after a hard day cleaning up the streets, but Robo Bar is very much a reality and wowing guests at Hard Rock Hotel & Casino Biloxi in Mississippi. Thankfully this robotic bar system has been designed by Makr Shakr rather than RoboCop’s nemesis OCP so it has no aspirations towards global domination; it merely wants to mix a few cocktails. Quite a few in fact. Robo Bar has two robotic arms that can make 120 drinks per hour, knows billions

Robotic bartender shakes things up in Mississippi.

of drink combinations and offers 140 ingredients for guests to choose from. Once you’ve ordered your Old Fashioned via a custom app, you can then sit back and enjoy the rise of the machines. The robotic arms are intended to mimic the actions of a real bartender, from shaking a cocktail and slicing a lemon to muddling a Cuba Libre. For added panache, all of the robot’s movements are modelled on the gestures of Italian dancer and choreographer Marco Pelle from New York Theatre Ballet. Mike Barlow, Senior Vice President of Operations for the resort’s owner Twin River Management Group, first encountered the technology in 2017 and wasted no time in bringing it to the Gulf Coast. “When we saw this in action in Vegas, we knew instantly this would be something our Biloxi patrons would enjoy,” he says. It’s surely only a matter of time before RoboCop swings by for a couple of B-52s with ED-209.


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The oldest Wine House in Champagne: Aÿ 1584


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