WWB MAGAZINE JANUARY ISSUE 243

JANUARY 2015, ISSUE 243 £6.95 — WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK WOMENSWEAR BUYER

— WELL-SEASONED Comprehensive guide to autumn/winter 2015 —

— COUNTDOWN TO SCOOP Brands to watch at the premium womenswear show —

— ROCK CULTURE Directional fashion gains an edge for autumn —

— NEW YEAR, NEW START Retailers make business resolutions for 2015 —

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CONTENTS —

JANUARY 2015

REGULARS

FEATURES

FASHION

09 EDITOR’S COMMENT — 10 NEWS — 20 BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear — 24 TALKING POINT — 96 RETAIL FORUM The latest news from the industry — 99 ADVICE Experts answer your questions — 102 UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL With TV personality Ferne McCann — COVER: FAUX-FUR COAT BY URBANCODE —

26 REASONS TO BE CHEERFUL The new womenswear businesses emerging post-recession — 32 RETAIL RESOLUTIONS Retailers reveal their aspirations for this year — 34 Q&A With Baum & Pferdgarten founders Helle Hestehave and Rikke Baumgarten — 45 FIRST THINGS FIRST Bestseller’s new label launch — 89 THAT’S SHOWBUSINESS Exhibition organisers advise on the season ahead — 92 DIRECTIONAL HERITAGE James Lakeland’s new direction for the coming season — 95 SIGN OF THE TIMES The story behind retailers’ store names —

38 STYLE FILE — 42 FASHION RADAR — 49 AUTUMN/WINTER 2015 WWB’s guide to the season — 50 MODERN SEVENTIES The experts at Trendstop interpret key catwalk trends for a/w 15 — 52 SEASON’S PREVIEW Brand-by-brand guide to the season — 68 PINK ROCKER Directional womenswear takes on a rock edge this a/w 15 — 84 SCOOP INTERNATIONAL — 90 FIRST LOOK AT MODA WOMAN —

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COMMENT —

JANUARY 2015

Acting Editor Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — Contributors Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com — Sub editor Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — Editorial assistant Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com — Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — Sales manager Sam Chambers sam@ras-publishing.com — Subscriptions Laura Martindale laura.martindale@ite-exhibitions.com — Editorial director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — Portfolio director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie.parker@ite-exhibitions.com — Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com — Reprographics/printing ImageData Group 01482 652323

— WWB is published 9 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 — Copyright © 2014 WWB Magazine Limited.

All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

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RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLC company A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication WWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB.

FOLLOWING YEARS OF AUSTERITY AND NEGATIVITY, THERE’S NOTHING MORE INSPIRING THAN SEEING NEW GREEN SHOOTS OF BUSINESS CROPPING UP ALL OVER THE INDUSTRY. — It was the inspiration for our Reasons to be Cheerful feature, which proved to find a diverse range of businesses across the sector that are rising up in the wake of the recent recession. It’s encouraging to say the least to see a new generation rising, particularly following the ongoing reports of the business casualties sustained during the tough trading experienced across the UK since the recession of 2008.

It was similarly encouraging to speak to existing retailers in the interim between the busy festive period and the buying season. To hear budgets are being increased – and then to hear these increases were a reflection of a successful autumn 2014 – was the best start to the New Year that the industry could have wished for.

It certainly bodes well for the New Year as the first exhibitions of the season get under way. Of course, most retailers are still cautious, and there are some influences from the recession that have perhaps changed the way we operate as an industry forever. In-season buying is once again on the increase, and retailers are demanding more flexibility than

ever from suppliers, simply because it’s the only way to survive another season.

But it’s a change that is maybe essential to the industry’s ongoing survival, and simply a new way of working as the sector evolves into a new era.

However they are sold, there’s no denying that the collections for a/w 15 are focused, relevant and displaying a definite strength that has perhaps been missing in seasons gone by. This issue, we present a detailed preview of the season starting on p49, and incorporating essential trend advice, a brand-by-brand guide to autumn and our own exclusive take on contemporary fashion this a/w 15.

The season starts here.

Christina Williams, acting editor.

NEWS —

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TRANSITIONAL PIECES AND KNITWEAR TOP AUTUMN WISH LISTS Retailers focus on quality basics for a/w 15.

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LUISA CERANO

Womenswear retailers across the country are approaching the new buying season with concise wish lists and carefully planned budgets that reflect the performance of a/w 14, according to a straw poll carried out

by WWB. Following a mixed performance across the board this season – which saw sales slowed by unseasonably warm weather up until Halloween but strong sales over the festive period – retailers have adapted their buying strategies in a bid to maximise the potential of impending sales in the latter half of this year.

“For a/w 15, there will be more of a focus on brands that have the infrastructure to react and work closer with us in season to support stock levels,” says Joanne Wood, womenswear buyer at Leeds independent Accent. “I’m always on the lookout for new brands, but more transitional product – especially knitwear – and good-quality basics offering a good mark-up and limited distribution are on my wish list. I will also be holding back a higher percentage of budget than I did last autumn to react during the season.”

It’s an approach that will be shared by many retailers in the industry, including Richard Broadbent, owner of Cheshire womenswear retailer Broadbents. “We will be reducing our forward-order buy as we build upon our a/w 14 successes and are rigorous on our failures,” he says. “We may possibly reduce our outerwear spend, but

it’s a case of what will the weather do? As always, we will be looking out for innovative product and new brands, and we will be refreshing our knitwear offer for the new season.”

Despite plans to reserve some budget for in-season buying, however, retailers are maintaining or even increasing budgets overall for autumn 2015.

“I do want to find labels that will allow me to buy in-season so that I can try it out before topping up but, overall, my budget will increase,” says Alexandra Boardman, owner of Alexandra’s of Keswick, Cumbria.

“We have had a great a/w 14 – with sales up by 19.5 per cent compared with last winter – so, to some extent, I am looking at more of the same great offers from my existing suppliers, but I am also looking to find one more great brand. As an independent, it’s important to continuously look for new brands to keep the product mix fresh and, of the three new labels I took on this autumn, two have exceeded expectations.”

“I will be increasing my budget by around five per cent overall,” agrees Yvette Davies, owner of Thirty Three Boutique in Lymington, Hampshire. “I’m looking to take on more skirts, tailored trousers and tops. Hemlines on dresses and skirts are something I will be focusing on as I need styles that are suitable for my maturing but stylish clientele and, by that, I don’t mean frumpy – I am just amazed at how short some luxury, fashion house hemlines can be.

“ As an independent, it’s important to continuously look for new brands to keep the product mix fresh” Overall, after a slow start due to the warm autumn, things have picked up and I’m happy with the season just gone. I’m up year on year and feeling optimistic.”

Debbie Wilson, owner of womenswear independent Melange in Truro, Cornwall, agrees that independents who play to their strengths are well-placed for a prosperous year throughout the whole of 2015.

“Service, support and friendship to our customers are the aspects of retail that the internet cannot compete with,” she says.

“We have to get people back into the shops, to feel the quality, see and try the style and communicate with people who know their product inside out. I will be looking to continue as I have for the last 25 years at Melange by giving excellent customer service, even if my core business has changed dramatically from offering co-ordinated separates when I started out to focusing on good quality jeans, trousers and knitwear as I do today. Specifically for a/w 15, I will be looking for basic, quality items that create a backbone to the wardrobe.”

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NEWS —

JANUARY 2015

MYWARDOBE CEASES TRADING Online luxury fashion retailer My-Wardrobe. com has closed its virtual doors after eight years of trading. The news comes after weeks of substantial discounting on the site, which saw some lines retailing at up to 70 per cent off their normal retail price.

Although My-Wardrobe.com continued to accept returns until the middle of this month, the site had ceased trading by the start of this year. The message displayed on the site’s holding page redirects customers towards former competitor Net-a-porter. com, which has acquired some of the company’s assets, including its URL. Founded in 2006 by Sarah Curran and former husband Andrew Curran, My-Wardrobe.com launched as an online destination for luxury, branded womenswear and menswear. The site dropped its menswear offer in 2012 to concentrate on its women’s offer, but ran into difficulty following the resignation of Sarah Curran in July 2013 and Andrew Curran in April this year. The company was placed into administration last month, having been bought by financial backer Steven Tucker.

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NEW SIGNINGS AT MODA Moda Woman has announced further signings to its autumn addition as the industry makes its final countdown to the event.

The exhibition – which takes place at Birmingham’s NEC on 15-17 February – will welcome Ronen Chen after an absence of several seasons, as well as debutants Pola Mondi, Paul Brial and Ewa I Walla (pictured).

British talent, meanwhile, will be represented by new exhibitors Louise Ross, Indigo Ivy and Sophie’s Wild Woollens, who will exhibit alongside established and returning British labels James Lakeland, Lily & Me and Marble. Antonio d’Errico, Gabriela by Gabriela Sanchez, Elvi, Introstyle and Onelife, meanwhile, will show for the first time.

This season will see Moda Woman once again present its diverse brand portfolio within three distinct sectors: Moda Noir, which will focus on evening and occasionwear; Moda Woman, dedicated to core labels within the womenswear sector; and Moda White, which presents a directional selection of contemporary labels.

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ASOS TOPS PINTEREST Asos was the top retailer for shared content on Pinterest for the second Christmas season in a row. The retailer’s images are the most shared via the social network, which focuses on pinboard-style visual content shared or “pinned” on member’s personal pages. Last season saw Asos generate an average of 7,202 pins per week, five times that of retail giant Amazon, which generates an average of 1,620 pins and came in at second place. Third place, meanwhile, went to department store John Lewis.

— ZALANDO LAUNCHES STYLING SERVICE German online retailer Zalando will launch its first personal stylist service for both men and women over the next six months, as it looks to take its customer service offering to the next level. Although the exact launch date of the site has yet to be revealed, the service is expected to be up and running by summer 2015, and will target the retailer’s 14 million customers across Europe.

— ADMINISTRATION FOR JR TAYLOR Independent department store JR Taylor has been placed into administration by Howjow Investments. However, the store, located in Lytham St Annes, Lancashire, is actively seeking a buyer, and staff have been assured that it is “business as usual” until a new owner is found.

Hilary Cookson and Henry Shepherd – owners of independent retailer Maureen Cookson in Whalley, Lancashire – have acted as consultants for the store over the past five years, and described the business as “in great shape”.

“Over the past five years, the store has seen double-digit growth year-on-year and has a highly focused team,” says Cookson. “However, JR Taylor is an anomaly in the portfolio and so, having achieved a turnaround, the trust feels it is time to consolidate.”

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NEWS —

JANUARY 2015

EXPANSION FOR BARBERINI Barberini Fashion Showrooms has taken on three new French labels for a/w 15, increasing its offer of boutique labels by almost 50 per cent.

Nathalie Chaize (pictured), Morgan Kirch and Coats Factory by Morten Plesner will all be introduced to the UK via Barberini, and the agent-distributor is targeting independent boutiques in particular with its enhanced offer.

“We are delighted to add these gorgeous and sumptuous labels to our brand portfolio for autumn,” says Barberini’s managing director Paul Wendt. “They fit in perfectly with our exquisite portfolio, and each has its own point of difference and distinct signature, which will appeal to the UK market.”

Nathalie Chaize and Morgan Kirch each specialise in chic Parisian daywear and eveningwear, while outerwear label Coats Factory by Morten Plesner offers a range of feminine coats designed in Paris with strong Scandinavian influences.

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SCOOP UNVEILS NEW NAMES AND SINGLE VENUE US designers Nathalie and Alanna, Sweden’s J.Lindeberg and French label Paul & Joe Sister are among the first-time exhibitors at the forthcoming edition of London womenswear show Scoop, which takes place at the Saatchi Gallery, Chelsea, on 1-13 February.

Around 250 international collections will take part in this season’s event, with other newcomers including De’Hart, Mercy Delta and Rose Carmine.

Next month’s show will see all brands showing under one roof at the Saatchi Gallery, following the closure of the event’s second venue – Phillips, in Victoria – in autumn last year. Summer this year, meanwhile, will see the launch of a new concept for the four-year-old show, the details of which are set to be announced at the end of this month.

“We had hoped to have held one final event across both venues before a new concept for Scoop launches in the summer – something we’ve been planning for over a year,” says Scoop founder Karen Radley.

“However, we found out towards the end of last year that this wouldn’t be possible, so following special arrangements with the Saatchi Gallery we’ll be showcasing the full Scoop line-up at our original home in Chelsea.”

February will see brands showing over all four floors of the Saatchi Gallery, rather than the three floors used for previous events. Full details of the summer 2015 exhibition will be published in next month’s issue of WWB. To register to visit Scoop go to www.scoop-international.com.

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BFC ACCOLADE FOR EDWARD ENNINFUL Stylist to the industry Edward Enninful received the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator at the annual British Fashion Council Awards last month. Enninful – who is currently fashion & style director of W magazine – has shaped advertising campaigns for Gucci, Christian Dior, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Jil Sander, Calvin Klein, Giorgio Armani, Mulberry and Comme des Garçons during his extensive career.

“Edward’s creative energy and level of vision captures the mood of our times,” says Natalie Massenet MBE, chairman of the BFC. — UKTI TEAMS UP WITH SHANGPIN Industry body UKTI has entered into an agreement with online platform Shangpin.com to bring British business into the Far East.

The UK Trade & Investment body will provide support and expertise to British brands looking to establish a presence in China as part of the deal.

Shangpin.com has a unique position in China as the first full-price online retailer and B2B platform focusing on international fashion brands. The website recently reached 61 million people with a campaign for Topshop – which the organisation says will pave the way for other brands looking to enter the Chinese market.

“Our hugely successful online launch of Topshop through ShangPin.com was a milestone in Chinese retail history,” says David Zhao, CEO of ShangPin. The UKTI, meanwhile, says it is the right time for British brands to capitalise on the increasing demand for UK exports. “The UK has a strong heritage for producing high-quality goods and services, creating huge demand for British brands across the globe,” says Dominic Jermey, CEO of UKTI. “We are therefore delighted to be partnering with ShangPin on this agreement and, in doing so, respond to the increasing demands of the discerning Chinese for British brands and, at the same time, supporting UK brands trade successfully on ShangPin’s e-marketplace.”

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HEART of FASHION MODA 15-17 February 2015 NEC Birmingham. Register online at moda-uk.co.uk

Woman

Lingerie & Swimwear

Accessories

Gent

Footwear

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NEWS —

JANUARY 2015

ONLINE SIZE CALCULATOR LAUNCHES

CLICK & COLLECT MOST POPULAR AT JOHN LEWIS

A new dress size calculator service has launched at Shopadresssize.com, allowing shoppers to find the perfect fit by entering chest, waist and hip measurements.

Click & Collect has overtaken home delivery for the first time at department store John Lewis, indicating that consumers are opting to take control of receiving their own parcels.

The site compares shoppers’ measurements with the size ranges given by the stores, aiming to provide female shoppers with the tools to make better purchasing decisions.

Shoppers can choose from thousands of items, with the individual’s recommended size provided for each item. The online site also features a comment form that will be used to provide stores with any customer feedback, with the long-term aim of improving sizing in the fashion sector.

Featuring all major online and high-street retailers, shoppers can pre-determine whether a garment will fit when ordering clothes from shops such as Topshop, Dorothy Perkins, New Look and Asos. The service also features independent stores such as MeeMee and Daisy Street, and will add new stores in the future.

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This Christmas period saw 56 per cent of online orders at the department delivered to stores for customers to collect at their own convenience, according to new figures.

Overall, John Lewis sales surged to £777m during the five weeks from 27 December, up 5.8 per cent on the same period last year. The growth was, however, entirely driven by online sales, suggesting that customers are as keen as ever to opt for the convenience of shopping via the internet.

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RETAILERS STRUGGLE WITH DELIVERY BACKLOG Retailers across the UK struggled to cope with fulfilling the overwhelming amount of orders placed online in the run up to Christmas.

Black Friday and Cyber Monday left some retailers and logistics partners with more orders than they were able to fulfil within the suggested delivery time frames.

Courier firm Yodel announced in December that it would no longer be picking up parcels from retailers as it worked to clear the backlog of deliveries – something the firm predicted would take 72 hours.

Online sales over the Black Friday and Cyber Monday weekend were estimated to be 50 per cent higher than expected, a figure that was mainly attributed to the competitive discounting seen by retailers across the spectrum.

Despite some retailers such as M&S forced to extend estimated delivery times, however, most fulfilled delivery in time for Christmas.

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INDUSTRY WELCOMES RATES REFORMS The Chancellor recently announced a full review of the business rates system as part of the Autumn Statement. Following a two-year campaign to reform the system – spearheaded by industry body the British Retail Consortium – George Osbourne pledged to have new proposals ready for a reformed system in time for next year’s Budget.

The Chancellor committed to a cap in business rates rises of two per cent, and also promised to extend business rates relief for small businesses. The current system of properties with a rateable value of up to £6,000 being exempt from business rates will continue, while those valued up to £12,000 will receive tapered relief. It is estimated that this will take 360,000 businesses out of the system, as well as reducing rates for a further 180,000 companies.

Businesses with a rateable value of up to £50,000 will receive an increased discount of £1,500 from the current £1,000.

The news was welcomed by the industry, which has long argued that the current system favours online businesses with no rateable premises.

— BBB CANCELLED This season’s edition of trade show Bread & Butter was eventually cancelled, following weeks of speculation and uncertainty.

Founder Karl-Heinz Müller attributed the cancellation to the reluctance of brands to commit, saying the exhibition had not been able to “motivate a sufficient number of exhibitors to participate this season.”

“I am convinced of the fact that our success concept cannot be continued by repeating the past,” says Müller. “Maybe something great has to end so that something new can arise. Our whole fashion industry is at a point of radical change. This is why challenges of the future have to be met with new solutions. For now, I would like to express my gratitude to all those who have supported and accompanied us in the last 14 years.

This is not the end. We will return.”

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F E B R U A R Y A U T U M N / W I N T E R

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Register online at scoop-international.com

#ScoopAW15

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PROMOTION —

JANUARY 2015

MUST SEE MODA 15-17 Februar y 2015, NEC Birmingham

With just over a month until Moda opens the doors on the new season, the line-up is ever strengthening as a host of new brands heads up the women’s product of fer this a/w.

R EG I S T E R FO R Y O U R F R E E T I C KE T AT

Big names and new faces

BE2B Hub

With newcomers across all the halls, you can explore the brand list today at Moda-uk.co.uk but, to give you a sneak peek, Brendella, InAvati and Gabriela by Gabriela Sanchez join womenswear alongside Moda exclusives Marble and Michaela Louisa. In neighbouring Accessories, Brand Native debuts, whilst footwear welcomes household name Helly Hansen joining fellow fashion-led leisure specialist Skechers as well as notable names like Sorel, Högl and Dr Martens. Sloggi, Ambra and Ysabel Mora join the star-studded line-up in Lingerie & Swimwear, alongside Michael Kors Swimwear, Empreinte and Maryan Mehlhorn.

Recognising the service needs of both e-commerce and bricks-and-mortar business, the BE2B Hub is a new area that will assemble the leading providers for merchandising, point of sale and in-store display systems alongside the latest technologies, software and service to allow you to continue enhancing your customer experiences. Whether you’re refreshing or refining your business, it has never been easier to find the tools and expertise you need at Moda. With the likes of online marketplaces Shopa and Downyourhighstreet. com, 360 photography specialist EME Digital, Abbotts Freight, stock management software from Top To Toe and e-commerce website company Superia Commerce ready to share their products and insights, the BE2B Hub is a must-visit this season.

PROMOTION —

M ODA - U K .C O .U K

Underpinning knowledge

History in the making

Network and socialise

At the heart of the new BE2B Hub will be this season’s business and e-commerce theatre.

Seminars to be anticipated include business coaching and funding advice from former Mulberry and Clarks operational manager Jim Jordan; a hot-seat with the Fashion Association of Britain as they give you an idea a minute; consumer insight reporting from research group INTO; and topics on marketing, social media, stock management and e-commerce insights from experts and Moda regulars such as Dennis Reid, Tony Scott, Martin O’Toole and Jonny Ross.

Moda is once again teaming up with De Montfort University to bring you an exclusive snapshot of tomorrow’s footwear design talent.

The long-standing competition, entitled History in the Making, continues to grow from strength to strength as it approaches its sixth year. The unique partnership enables students to expose their raw talent to top names in the industry, with previous participants going on to design positions at Dr Martens, Loake, Clarks and Vivienne Westwood to name but a few. View this year’s finalists at the History in the Making installation in Hall 20 in front of the catwalk.

A Moda tradition, all visitors and exhibitors are invited to toast to the end of day one with drinks in the Atrium on Sunday 15 February.

Meanwhile, tickets for this season’s Monday night party at The Beeches Bar and Grill are selling fast. The evening once again offers the opportunity to relax and reflect on the day’s business. As the UK’s leading fashion industry event, Moda is the perfect place to connect with other retailers, press and service providers.

Tickets cost £20pp and include food and a welcome drink. To book your tickets call Nicole Yates on +44 (0)1484 846069 or email nicole.yates@moda-uk.co.uk.

Mado presents another fabulous collection for Autumn 2015.

Wearable, commercial, affordable, effortless fashion to suit all women.

Don’t miss this exciting collection showing at Gilmoora House, 57 - 61 Mortimer Street, London W1W 8HS, for three weeks from 2 - 20 February, open all through Pure weekend 8 - 10 February. Also showing in the Manchester showroom from 22 February.

For appointments contact: Phil Day Partnership Ltd 3 Tariff Street, Manchester M1 2FF. Tel: 0161 228 0573 Mobile: 07968582690 Email: michelle@philday.net For Ireland: Trevor Lavery Agencies Unit 34, Mallusk Enterprise Park, Mallusk Park, Newtownabbey, Country Antrim, BT36 4GN. Tel: 02890-840222 Email: trevorlavery@btconnect.com

PROMOTION —

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MEASURE OF SUCCESS Alembika launches this season, bringing with it a revolutionary concept in clothes that fit and flatter.

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A

lembika is a brand new concept in dressing. Designed to flatter the body irrespective of size, Alembika enhances and perfects not the body you are dreaming of or wish you had, but the body you have right now!

The collection is designed by Hagar Alembik from Tel Aviv, who uses a variety of soft and supple jersey fabrics that drape on the body to fit, flatter and yet move fluidly. The collection includes individual pieces that can be purely worn alone with a simple basic to enhance the look, or matching separates that seamlessly flatter each other. Seamless is the buzz word here, as Alembika fits so easily that zips are not required to create these unique garments.

Dresses can be worn for any occasion, gracing the body and giving freedom yet beauty and confidence to the wearer to rival any contemporary dress company.

Colours for autumn 2015 are muted yet strong; subtle tones that lend richness to the jersey. This much-fêted design collection reached our shores for the first time for spring 2015 and, following that very successful season, the autumn 2015 range is a much-anticipated collection. Sizes range from 10 to 24.

Alembika will be showing for three weeks at Gilmoora House, 57-61 Mortimer Street, London W1W 8HS, on 2-20 February, and open all through Pure weekend on 8-10 February. Also showing in the Manchester showroom from 22 February.

For appointments contact: Phil Day Partnership Ltd 3 Tariff Street Manchester M1 2FF Tel: 0161 228 0573 Mobile: 07968 582690 Email: michelle@philday.net For Ireland: J V Collections Unit B 13 Dundonald Enterprise Park Dundonald BT16 1QT Tel: 02890 486300 Fax: 02890 486300 E-mail: jvcollections@btconnect.com

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PEOPLE —

JANUARY 2015

BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear —

LIFE THROUGH A LENS Manchester fashion label Bench celebrated the integral role of bloggers last month with an event designed to turn the camera on some of the industry’s most renowned commentators.

Bloggers Pause Magazine, Talk Casuals, Buckets & Spades and Snoochie Shy (pictured) were drawn and photographed wearing Bench as part of the LoveMyHood campaign, which focused specifically on the label’s signature hooded styles. The art was showcased at London’s Hoxton Basement, where the bloggers sipped Prosecco and danced to the sounds of DJ MatMan while viewing their portraits.

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— “The ScotEdge fund has awarded £852,000 in loans and grants to 26 new and emerging Scottish businesses at a glittering awards ceremony at the Royal Bank of Scotland headquarters in Edinburgh” —

THE LOVE OF DENIM High-street retailer USC hosted a brand takeover last month, when denim label Wrangler took over its flagship Oxford Street store. The brand showcased its Denim Performance range, treating shoppers to drinks and nibbles while demonstrating the collection’s features and advising on fit. The label also sent models out onto Oxford Street wearing Wrangler to promote the fit of the Performance line, which was first launched for a/w 13.

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THE FUTURE’S ORANGE

LIFETIME OF SMILES

Carol Smilie hosted last month’s Grand Scottish Ball, organised by industry charity the Retail Trust. The event honoured Vera Weisfeld (pictured centre with the Trust’s chief executive Richard Boland and Carol Smilie) for her contribution to the sector, which saw her establish high-street chain What everyone Wants in 1971 before going on to open independent stores in Glasgow.

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Underwear label Waxx is donating all of the profits from the sale of any of its orange designs to cancer charity Myeloma UK, following the diagnosis of its MD Jaqui Copley (pictured right with daughter Nicola) with the disease.

The project has already raised £2,500 but, with further fundraising plans this year, the brand has pledged to raise £25,000.

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Our Vision

Target the contemporary woman aged 30 - 50 with a clear fashion statement, a good fit and critically excellent value for money (average price lowered to £24).

Our Collections

Tramontana provides the perfect fashion repertoire whether it is for the office, casual, dinner or a party. Our collections are feminine, sexy, with trend setting ‘must haves’.

We have fascinating colour combinations, creative prints, innovative detail and we always use high quality materials.

All our price points command a 3.0 margin at retail.

Selling Dates: A/W 15

Monday 26th January - Wednesday 4th March 2015

Contact: Cicely Brown Tel: 020 7636 7111 Email: cicely@fosfashion.co.uk FOS Fashion Marketing Ltd, 4th Floor, Morley House, 320 Regent Street, London W1B 3BF

OPINION —

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TALKING POINT Key industry players give their views on the issues that affect womenswear.

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CHANGING STATUS

MAKING CONNECTIONS

Last year was the year I made my first foray into the pop-up phenomenon. I opened my first pop-up store during a/w 14, and I am delighted to say that it was a big success. The business model worked really well for me which, after nearly 10 years of traditional retailing, was a bit of a revelation.

This season will see us bring contemporary womenswear label Ronen Chen back to Moda Woman, following an absence of a few seasons. It’s an exciting time for the brand and, as we prepare for the exhibition, we are looking ahead to 2015 as a key year of development for this exciting Israeli label.

At the time of opening, I had already viewed the a/w 15 collections for the established brands that I carry, so I could concentrate on selling current season in the new store. It was great being able to place extra short orders from my key brands in the lead up to the opening, and I was also able to take on board some exciting new ones that specialise in short order stock.

Of course stock is only half the story, but I was fortunate in that I managed to find the perfect unit. It was just two miles from my original shop in Esher, Surrey, and was therefore easily accessible to the established client base that I have built up over the past 10 years.

It was also in a unique location in Bridge Road, Hampton Court, where around 90 per cent of the shops are independent – so rare these days.

Since opening, business has been amazing. I have gained many new customers in addition to my old ones, and footfall has been really strong. When the store closed, it gave me a chance to reflect on my traditional retail model; the unusually mild weather we saw right up to Halloween would have made for a tough start to the season with fixed overheads and, believe me, I have done this for long enough to know how worrying that can be. Opening for the selling months of November and December was key, and I achieved turnover and margin beyond my predicted targets.

I shall be continuing to work with this model going forward, and will be opening my spring pop-up from April to June this year.

This gives me some time off and also some valuable travel time to go buying further afield and return with unique product for my customers. It’s a win-win situation.

For me, the days of fixed overheads, high rents and rates are over. I love running my store but, after 10 years, I feel I would like more time for myself. So this will be the best of both worlds – and my customers appear to love it, too.

—

We first started working with Ronen Chen last year, and we have since identified exciting new business opportunities for the brand.

The UK and Ireland are very important markets with a small but loyal customer base, and this year will see us increase that presence with a highly targeted plan to bring the right retail partners on board.

It’s a strategy of cautious expansion, and one that has seen us approach certain retailers in the lead up to Moda Woman next month. We are looking to raise awareness of the brand ahead of the exhibition, although the collection is certainly set to speak for itself. It’s a stunning range that represents a lot more perceived value following the reduction of pricing since last autumn and, conversely, the improvement in the quality of the brand’s materials.

Specifically, we will be presenting two collections for autumn – Limited by Ronen Chen and our core Ronen Chen offer. Limited is a capsule collection of 20 styles, all of which represent the essence of Ronen Chen’s unique design style – sculpted, geometric and minimalist. They are dramatic and very designed, quantities are limited and price points are higher. These are, as such, the catwalk designs. They are currently represented in only one concept store in Israel, which opened last October, and will launch internationally in a/w 15.

Ronen Chen, meanwhile, is the prêt a porter interpretation of Ronen Chen’s signature design. The design style will be very clean and simple in the sophisticated sense and, while the collection will contain a few repeat bodies, we have been very careful to minimise the presence of past styles. Rather than repeat himself, Ronen Chen has used the inspiration of the Limited Collection to create an exciting collection which is at once faithful to his signature and simultaneously brings a fresh and fashionable breath of newness.

The collection will consist of around 125 styles, broken down into seven mini collections.

Returning to Moda will be an exciting time for us, and heralds a new period of expansion for an established label. As 2015 gets under way, we are feeling very positive that, by working in co-operation with our customers and clients, we will all benefit.

—

Janine O’Keefe, owner, O’Keefe Fashion, Esher, Surrey

Howard Ross, founder, Retail Brand Connection

1ST FLOOR, SHELANA HOUSE, 31 EASTCASTLE STREET LONDON W1W 8DN TEL: 0207 636 5677 info@eugenklein.co.uk

26 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

REPORT —

JANUARY 2015

POCKET LONDON

REASONS TO BE CHEERFUL A new wave of optimism is sweeping through certain womenswear circles, with fresh labels emerging, new design directions and a keen focus on growing wholesale businesses. So 2015 could finally see a new rising following the recession years, as Tom Bottomley discovers from some key players.

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N

ot so long ago the thought of starting up a new women’s label would have been as daunting as it was inevitably going to be tough. Getting buyers to look at something completely new when they seemed to be playing it safe with known and trusted brands that sell, regardless of a recession, is never going to be easy.

But fashion should be all about the new and exciting, the fresh and attention grabbing. And a new breed of labels are leading the way to entice buyers to have a go with something different once again.

A feel-good factor seems to be creeping back. Edward Page, co-founder of Pocket London – whose business partner Louise Thompson is a star of the TV show Made in Chelsea, says, “People are looking to express themselves more than they have in the recent past, in terms of crazy prints and so on. Even on the high street, prints and more eccentric fashion is definitely coming into focus. The likes of Moschino, Kenzo and Jeremy Scott are designing completely whacky things, and people are really starting to take notice. But whereas a Kenzo sweatshirt might be £300, we want to give customers something as unique, but for a price that’s affordable.” Pocket London’s sweats sell for £70, with bomber jackets at £150.

Page and Thompson started Pocket London while at Edinburgh University in 2012, where Page was doing philosophy and Thompson geography. Initially it was jeans with a contrasting pocket, but now streetwear is much more their thing, especially having met and started to work with Maya Finkelstein Amrani, a graphic designer

who does prints by hand. Pocket London’s a/w 15 collection is called Time Traveller, dipping back into the 90s for certain design references. “We’re launching with a new UK website called Shopper in January, which has just had a £200m investment,” says Page.

“We’re also looking to do a pop-up shop in Soho in the spring to really highlight our new design direction. I think 2015 will be a year that defines us and what we’re doing going forward.”

While Thompson’s Made in Chelsea connection has certainly helped them in terms of getting the Pocket London name “out there”, there are new initiatives emerging to help up-and-coming new talent get going in the business. Jim Duffy, CEO of Entrepreneurial Spark, the UK’s largest free start-up business incubator, says, “As with any entrepreneur, fashion entrepreneurs need to get their pitch on point to impress retailers and investors.

They need to have a clear and concise pitch that gets the message across quickly, and they need to ensure the product price is correct.

But you don’t have to go it alone. Having trusted mentors and other entrepreneurs to talk through ideas which can help you spot problems early and discover new possibilities.”

Elizabeth Cawthray, who debuted her knitwear label Needle in a/w 13, is one who has learnt the hard way when it comes to getting the price of her products right. It has meant a decision to move production to China, from Italy, but Cawthray is now feeling the benefits. “It has made us a lot more commercial,” she says. “And because of that we have now been picked up by Anthropologie for s/s 15, and we are currently working on an exclusive line of cashmere

27 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

REPORT —

JANUARY 2015

IN FOCUS

with the retailer for a/w 15. I was finding it hard to get buyers to pay the price, and those that did wanted a minimum 2.8 mark-up.

I couldn’t make a profitable business out of producing in Italy and getting the mark-up right to entice buyers.” So one simple switch, and a move to a boutique factory in China where Cawthray gets great samples and lower minimums than the factory she was working with in Italy, means 2015 is looking very promising to grow the business.

Luxury women’s bag and leather accessories label Loxley England is another newcomer with an optimism for the New Year.

A preview launch will take place this spring during London Fashion Week, with a full collection launching for a/w 15. Creative director Tess Andrews, who started Loxley with her brother James, says, “We believe there is sufficient space in the market for a new, high-quality English leather goods brand serving that discerning segment who demand quality at a reasonable price. We noticed that there are a whole range of American brands selling inside our price range that are really popular, and who each have their own niche within the market, such as Michael Kors, Kate Spade and Coach. We believe we can have a role to play in this space as well by relying on our English heritage and design.”

One accessories brand, which is much further down the line when it comes to market presence, but is now making a much more concerted effort to grow its wholesale side, is belt specialist Elliot Rhodes. “We celebrated our 10th anniversary in 2014, but it’s only really in the past two years that moves have been made to go into wholesale,” says founder and managing director Justin Rhodes.

“We’ve gone about things the other way around. We opened a retail shop first – on Long Acre in Covent Garden – in 2004, because we set out to change people’s perceptions of our product area – belts. We are very niche in what we do.” Rhodes originally needed to put together a different vision of the product, to make people understand that it didn’t just have to be about black and brown, or about a logo. “It’s a product that needs to be treated with the same kind of respect and passion as any other article of clothing,” he says. “We figured we could educate people and make them passionate about something that they thought was dead boring. That’s the position we started from, and I couldn’t do that any other way than a retail environment.”

Elliot Rhodes has two other London shops, one on Duke of York Square in Chelsea that opened in 2008, and another in St Christopher’s Place that opened in 2011. But, as he points out, opening stores is a very expensive business. “We would love to open more stores, but we have to be realistic,” he says. “We need to build our brand and make it stronger. There is only a certain speed we can open stores, and one every three years is only going to get our message out there to a certain point.” So with that, a bigger wholesale push is on the cards for a/w 15, and Rhodes has brought in a new sales director, Eliot Young – formerly of Thomas Pink and Paul Smith prior to that, to lead the charge. “We’re making a major commitment to get greater brand visibility this year, and wholesale will be key to that,” he says. Rhodes’ attitude, however, sums up a new mood and appetite to drive business forward in 2015. A refreshing change from the doom and gloom that’s been hanging in the air for too long.

LOXLEY LONDON New bag and leather goods label Loxley London was set up in early 2014 by brother-and-sister team James and Tess Andrews. James focuses on general business operations including the management of the supply chain and finances, while Tess is the creative director with experience in designing and making collections sold at London markets. Affordable luxury is the name of the game, with an English take on design using full-grain leathers and colours such as oxblood and racing green. Tess Andrews says, “The idea for Loxley originated from the desire to find the perfect smart and practical bag that looked chic and understated but was also able to accommodate a busy mobile lifestyle. Hence the first product designed was a sleek, high-quality, glossy full-grain leather rucksack.” A limited-edition Liberty London range of bags is launching this spring, fully lined in classic Liberty Tana Lawn fabric, chosen to complement the union of tradition and modernity which is key to Loxley’s appeal. Liberty, Harrods and Fenwick are indeed targeted for wholesale for a/w 15, though there is also a desire to be stocked in “some of the UK’s beautiful independent stores,” says Andrews. >>>

28 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

REPORT —

JANUARY 2015

NEEDLE Started by UK-based entrepreneur Elizabeth Cawthray with a debut collection for a/w 13, Needle is fast-gaining fans with its classic meets contemporary designs in cashmere, merino, silk and cotton. Cawthray started out in the business as an intern at LK Bennett, before going on to work as a full-time knitwear product developer for the brand. But her penchant to want to do her own thing was the driving force to launch Needle. After a precarious start, with production in Italy meaning prices were proving an issue for buyers, Cawthray has made the important move to switch production to China for a/w 15, instantly making the prices more appealing to shops such as Anthropologie – stocking it for the first time this spring, with plans for an exclusive cashmere line for a/w 15. Needle strives to offer luxurious but wearable, fun and everyday knitwear for women of all ages. Attention to detail is the key. While production is now coming out of a boutique factory in China, which can do smaller minimum runs than the factory previously used in Italy, all the knitwear is designed in-house in the UK ensuring both the fit and the yarns are of the highest standard and quality. The new price drop will be sure to entice a whole new swathe of buyers to take a look at Needle for a/w 15.

POCKET LONDON Starting out with eye-catching jeans with a contrast pocket in 2012 by two friends who met at Edinburgh University, Pocket London is taking a more streetwear-influenced route, with prints a key focus thanks to working with graphic designer and illustrator Maya Finkelstein Amrani. Co-founder Louise Thompson is one of the stars of hit TV show Made in Chelsea, which certainly helps to raise the brand’s profile and it grows and builds on its cult following.

Thompson’s business partner Edward Page is, however, keen for the label not get pigeon-holed as a Made in Chelsea focused brand. Sales have been growing from www.pocket-london.com, but s/s 15 was the first collection they looked to sell to other retailers.

From February, it will be sold on Japanese website Laso, which Page says “is a bit like the Net-a-Porter of Japan.” UK buyers would do well to keep an eye out for this one. New UK fashion website Shopper, launching in January, has picked up on it, and Page says there are plans to do their own pop-up shop in the spring, hopefully in Soho, to raise the profile up a notch. He says, “We want to be an affordable, comfortable and fun streetwear label for those who appreciate a mix of art and design, as well as something a bit different.”

Showing at SCOOP International 1-3 February 2015 Rachel Wiles – Country manager: england@bittekairand.com 07463 645670 Michele McMath: michele@ebagencyireland.com 07760 421185 Showroom: 33 Newman Street, London, W1T 1PY

Pure Stand J112 Moda, NEC Stand G10

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PEOPLE —

32 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — JANUARY 2015

RETAIL RESOLUTIONS As the new year gets under way, Christina Williams asks retailers all over the country what they are hoping to achieve this year.

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We are starting a joyful New Year by expanding our successful Louche womenswear label in-store and online. Louche Luxe is an exciting premium range of occasionwear for summer 2015, and the collection will also be available for our very valued wholesale customers. This year has seen our store numbers grow with six new openings, and we are looking to expand once again in 2015, bringing more Joy to UK city centres.

Here’s to a happy and prosperous New Year!

LOUISE DIXON, senior womenswear designer, Joy, nationwide

Our New Year’s resolution for Scarecrow Boutique is to open our second shop in London either in January or February. As we run a boutique in a village-type area – Crouch End, North London – and many of our customers are local people, we are looking to open our second boutique in a location that has tourists as well. This way, we can target the international market in-store as well as promoting our online store internationally.

ADRIANA GREEN (left) and SUSANA COOP, owners, Scarecrow Boutique, London N8

We feel positive about the general economic outlook, however our plans will be prudent and tightly targeted. Firstly, to boost our growing online business, we will be investing in more flexible, customer-friendly software with a clean, contemporary look and enhanced functionality – which will both simplify and speed up browsing and transactions. To boost our “bricks and mortar” presence, meanwhile, our 2015 New Year resolution for inventory purchasing will be “ little and often”; reductions in long lead forward order products and cherry picking from the best short order brands of both clothes and accessories.

This will ensure that we receive the right product at the right time.

We also want more brand exclusivity, and will be putting a lot of time and effort into tracking down brands and suppliers with products not widely available.

MEL ROLLINSON, owner, Woodie & Morris, Haslemere, Surrey

In these challenging times it’s essential to ensure that when buying new stock, we can be confident most of it will sell.

But that can lead to a conservative, dull collection. As well as bread-andbutter lines, it’s good to add a bit of spice – especially as independents should offer something different to high-street stores.

So my New Year’s resolution is to add more “wild-card” items – something to catch the eye and inspire. They need to be wearable, not too wacky, but certainly a talking point.

Some of my best sales have been wild cards.

HILARY HOYLE, Arches, Lymm, Cheshire

As the weather is so unpredictable, my New Year’s resolution is to do more in-season buying. It’s easy to get complacent after a good season and be tempted into doing larger forward orders but, whereas in autumn 2013 we sold the majority of coats and knitwear early, 2014 was so warm we have an excess of stock.

ROSE HORSFIELD, managing director, Pookie, Silkstone and Harrogate, Yorkshire

As the New Year begins, we turn our intentions to the launch of our new Epos system at Coes. Having traded for over 85 years and been successfully paper based for that time, the challenges of Epos seem a scary proposition for both the management team and staff. How will it change our selling, buying, restocking and reporting going forward? So our New Year’s resolution is to be brave! Embrace the up and downs that the next few months of change is going to bring. Be strong when it comes to difficult decisions such as reducing stock holding and, most of all, remember that this will improve the way we work, make us more profitable and we will be a 21st-century retailer!

FIONA COE, womenswear buyer, Coes, Suffolk and Essex

34 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

INTERVIEW —

JANUARY 2015

Q&A

Helle Hestehave and Rikke Baumgarten Co-founders of Baum & Pferdgarten — AS DANISH LABEL BAUM & PFERDGARTEN ADJUSTS TO A NEW, INTERNATIONAL PLATFORM WITH THE LAUNCH OF ITS PRE-COLLECTIONS, CHRISTINA WILLIAMS CATCHES UP WITH ITS FOUNDERS TO FIND OUT THE STORY BEHIND THE BRAND. —

35 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

INTERVIEW —

JANUARY 2015

Christina Williams: What has prompted the launch of your first pre-collections this year?

Helle Hestehave: Until now we have done high summer and winter party collections – which come out as post-collections in line with the Scandinavian custom. But as we have reached a stage where our potential growth is primarily outside of Scandinavia, we need to adapt to the international market and this is part of that process. One obvious consideration is the fact that these pre-collections will have a much longer full-price life in the stores than a post-collection.

CW: What presence does the brand currently have?

Rikke Baumgarten: In Scandinavia we have become a household name, and we now feel as if we have the platform to become a relevant and significant player in other European markets. We are selectively distributed in premium and contemporary boutiques, online stores and department stores covering the whole of the UK, and we have a notable presence in key European markets and Japan, but we are also looking to build on this. We have grown on so many levels – including turnover, staff members and the size of the range, and the collections are getting bigger.

CW: What is the brand all about?

RB: The creative manifest of Baum & Pferdgarten is to differ from the masses both in design and in process. Our two creative directors want to have an uncompromising approach to quality and aesthetics – and they like to approach their designs with a touch of irony and humour. Since our very first collection, we have done the so-called Artist’s Robe, which is a short A-shaped dress with high neckline, long sleeves and lots of floating fabric around the body. For the past couple of seasons, we have experimented with this signature silhouette in stiff or heavy fabrics to give it a new and more sculptural feel – and also transformed it into

“ We have grown on so many levels – including turnover, staff members and the size of the range, and the collections are getting bigger”

a coat. Furthermore, we are known for our ambition to balance between harmony and quirky playfulness. And last but not least we have become more and more known for our print stories – every season our retailers and end consumers expect new directional print from us – and we try to deliver.

CW: Who is your target consumer?

RB: Women who appreciate design and don’t mind standing out in a crowd – most of our design is slightly eccentric and colourful so if you wish to blend in, we might not be ideal. Still we try to give women an opportunity to express themselves individually by offering a combination of a classic styles and avant-garde pieces which can be mixed accordingly to suit individual taste or occasion.

CW: What influences your respective styles?

RB: Both Helle and I studied at the Royal Danish School of Design, and neither of us have ever worked for another designer or in another fashion company since we graduated. In her early years, Helle was hugely inspired by the androgynous and sculptural look of Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto, while I was drawn to the extravagant drama of designers such as Vivienne Westwood. Through the years, however, Helle and I have developed and become slightly less polarised, and our heroes have changed.

CW: Who would you say are your competitors?

HH: We are competing with a lot of the other good Scandinavian brands such as

By Malene Birger, Designers Remix, Rodebjerg, Carin Wester and so on. But of course we are also competing with international brands with a similar price positioning.

CW: Why do you think Danish fashion – and Scandinavian style in general – has become so sought-after in the UK market?

HH: For several reasons. Firstly, we deliver a designed and very high-quality product for a reasonable price. Secondly, our lifestyle has become increasingly attractive outside of

Scandinavia where more and more people start to appreciate the value of easy living in the Scandinavian way – which is all about a healthy, comfortable, and active lifestyle.

We bike, live close to nature, eat healthily, appreciate beautiful things – but we also want them to be functional and comfortable – and this has been our tradition for decades.

Last but not least, we are on a wave right now, where the best restaurant in the world is located in Copenhagen, our TV series are extremely popular in many countries around the world and, on top of that, we can then sell our design and fashion to complete the Danish dream.

CW: How are you connecting with buyers this season and beyond?

HH: We will be exhibiting at Who’s Next in Paris, Scoop in London, Premium in Berlin and during Copenhagen Fashion Week – and of course we have our own showrooms.

We always try to support our retail partners to the best of our ability, and offering outstanding service is a key focus of ours.

CW: How do you work with independent retailers?

HH: Retailers get access to all of our imagery, look books and runway films to support them – particularly those who sell our collections online. We also work hard to promote the brand through close and personal collaborations with carefully selected bloggers and online influencers and then we try to communicate our brand as elaborated and nuanced as we can on our website, Facebook page and Instagram account. Furthermore, we use a lot of resources on the biannual runway show during Copenhagen Fashion Week as we get a lovely film and some priceless imagery that we can use for the rest of the season in numerous ways.

CW: So do you have any plans to replicate your standalone retail model in the UK? HH: No plans – yet – but huge dreams...

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FASHION —

38 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — JANUARY 2015

STYLE FILE The hottest brands not to miss this month —

ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES

Newly launched Danish jewellery label Endless unveils a new collection for spring, focusing on mix-and-match designs for an array of wearing opportunities.

The brand has supplemented its core offer with its Jennifer Lopez collection, which is designed in conjunction with the singer and features 62 gold and silver charms interspersed with colourful stones to represent the glamour of the American star.

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GOOD GOLLY, MISS MILLY

Now in its third year of trading, accessories brand Miss Milly is expanding its offer with the introduction of a new cotton scarf range later this year. The collection is designed to complement the brand’s core offer of contemporary jewellery – which fuses contemporary silver styles with fresh pastel shades such as mint green and dusky pink – with a fresh collection of floaty summer styles entitled Light & Bright.

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BEYOND HERITAGE

Belgian label Myrine strengthens its global presence this year from the platform of several international trade exhibitions such as Panorama in Berlin.

Founded in 2010, the brand is epitomised by femininity and characterised by floating, ethereal silhouettes across its fresh, spring collection.

Footwear label Emu diversifies beyond its sheepskin heritage this season with its most diverse autumn collection to date. Ever Natural 365 aims to offer footwear styles that transcend all occasions, designed around the Australian label’s pillars of being natural, innovative, comfortable, enduring and boundless. The latest collection comprises 16 styles including Snowy and Nomad targeting the après-ski and outdoor consumer respectively.

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British scarf label Klements diversifies beyond its signature printed scarves this season with the launch of its first capsule range.

Comprising loose dresses and tunics, the collection is designed, printed and made in London from fine silk.

Past and present

British footwear label Ravel celebrates 50 years this year with the launch of one of its most diverse collections to date. Presenting practical everyday styling with stand-out glamour, the brand explores vibrant jewel shades, soft metallic and high-shine patents across its extensive range of boot and shoe silhouettes.

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WHO’S NEXT PARIS 23rd - 26th January 2015 Hall 3 Stand R31 CIFF COPENHAGEN: 29th January - 1 February 2015 Stand C5 - 002 PURE LONDON: 8th - 10th February 2015 Stand N80 LONDON SHOWROOM: 11th - 27th February 2015 MANCHESTER SHOWROOM: 2nd - 6th March 2015 GLASGOW SHOWROOM: 9th -13th March 2015 CONTACT: Email: jeremy@cates.co.uk Mobile: 07770 934 363 www.twodanes.dk/retail

FASHION —

42 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — JANUARY 2015

FASHION RADAR The hottest brands to look out for right now —

MIOPO

RAOUL

Having launched to the UK last year, Miopo specialises in luxury jersey, leather and silk separates and accessories.

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As the US boutique brand teeters on the edge of international expansion, Raoul is a label to watch this year.

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Established: 2013

Established: 2002

Designed and made in Portugal, Miopo arrived in the UK last year offering a collection of womenswear crafted from luxury raw materials. Silk, mesh silk and cotton are the textural signatures of the brand, brought to life in a variety of dress, skirt, shorts and top silhouettes.

Founded with a social conscience at its very core, Miopo is committed to its ethical standards and operates a business model whereby disadvantaged people’s lives are enhanced through the sale of the brand. A proportion of Miopo’s profits are donated to Stichting Beetje Beter, a Cambodian charity that works with the families who live and work on the rubbish dump of Phnom Penh, seeking reusable rubbish to sell on for food. As well as money, the brand also donates T-shirts to the families in line with the purchase of each of its selected product lines. Wholesale prices range from £10 to £132.

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Epitomised by its sleek take on contemporary and affordable luxury womenswear, Raoul is stepping up its international presence throughout 2015 and beyond. Stocked in Harrods, Liberty, Harvey Nichols and My Wardrobe in the UK, Raoul unveils a refined aesthetic for spring with its collection of impeccably cut separates.

The key focus this season is surrealism, as the brand explores the juxtaposition of ideas and surprising elements. Rose gold highlights are another style hallmark of the collection, both in the form of trims and accessories and within the brand’s screen-printed silks. Raoul also maintains its tailoring signatures throughout the collection while relaxing the structure through the use of fluid fabrics.

This year will see the launch of more Raoul flagship stores throughout Europe in the world’s fashion capitals. Wholesale prices range from £51.

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45 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

PROFILE —

JANUARY 2015

FIRST THINGS FIRST Following the recent expansion of its UK team, Danish group Bestseller is well-placed to conquer more of the British market, starting with the launch of its latest label First & I. As the group celebrates 40 years in the trade, Christina Williams caught up with head of the UK, US and Canada division Allan Vad Nielsen to find out why each of its brands have proven to be such bestsellers throughout Europe and beyond.

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W

hen the Povlsen family selected the name Bestseller for their fledgling fashion company four decades ago, they had no idea it would be so prophetic. The Danish family had aspirations simply to manufacture fashion for men, women and children in an ethical way, and even laid out ten basic operating principles to ensure that the business was constantly reminded of its core ethics.

Basic morals, however, netted results and, 40 years on, the clothing company that pledged to always be “honest, hard-working, loyal, co-operative and – above all – the best” operates in 70 markets, selling 18 brands that generate a net turnover of 2.7bn Euros.

It’s a brand portfolio that recently welcomed newest addition First & I, the young women’s label arriving on the UK fashion scene this year. Targeting the urban but girly consumer, the group maintains the brand has its own distinct point of difference despite being the 18th addition to the stable – something to which Bestseller has always attributed its ongoing success.

“We are lucky to have a wealth of brands that allows us to cover most areas within the market, but we will never neglect how much this market is changing, and that new demands need to be met,” says Allan Vad Nielsen, head of Bestseller Group UK, US & Canada.

“Although all of our brands sit under the Bestseller umbrella, they

are unique in their own right, and our portfolio is ever-growing with new labels to meet new demands that don’t sit in with the demographic of any of our existing brands.”

First & I specifically has one of the most distinct points of difference to date, in that it is the group’s first brand to respond to the perceived rise in authority of the fashion blogger and social media commentator. Put simply, First & I aims to offer “catwalk to closet” inspiration with the added dimension of allowing the wearer to interpret the look in her own way, the implication being that she will interpret the look for her own personal blog or social media page.

“In the past year, there has been a huge shift into the world of bloggers and social media, encouraging people to express their individual style,” says Vad Nielsen. “This is where we saw the need for a new brand – we see the First & I girl as being edgy in a girly way, urban but flirtatious and serious but in a playful manner – she’s no longer a follower, but an individual who expresses herself through her style.

The closest parallel within the Bestseller stable is Vila; First & I’s official parent brand and the team which was predominately responsible for creating the latest offer. Vad Nielsen is quick to maintain, however, that First & I differentiates itself through its >>>

46 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

PROFILE —

JANUARY 2015

“ WE ARE LUCKY TO HAVE A WEALTH OF BRANDS THAT ALLOWS US TO COVER MOST AREAS WITHIN THE MARKET, BUT WE WILL NEVER NEGLECT HOW MUCH THIS MARKET IS CHANGING, AND THAT NEW DEMANDS NEED TO BE MET”

ability to deliver the next level of fast fashion through a quicker turnaround, smaller collections and – perhaps most crucially – at Bestseller’s best price point yet.

Initial response to the collection has been positive, with high-street retailers Asos, New Look, Bank and Ark committing to retailing the brand online and in-store from January onwards. The focus now, though, is to bring some of the smaller players on board as brand partners – smaller, but just as significant, according to Vad Nielsen.

“We value our independents as much as we do our larger retailers, supporting all of our accounts through every avenue that we can,” he says. “Aside from the strong relationships our sales teams see as a vital part of their roles, we have key support systems through our visual marketing and marketing teams, and we strive to have great relationships with our retailers.”

Following a recent restructure, the UK team has in fact increased by 30 per cent, a move which the group hopes will be instrumental in taking the Bestseller labels to the next level across the globe. As has always been the case, each brand will continue to have its own designers, sales teams and marketing strategy, but resources for each label have been increased in line with projected growth.

“We know that we cannot sit still for one minute in such a competitive industry,” says Vad Nielsen. “Our brand portfolio has grown considerably and our new sub labels are allowing us to gain market share, but it’s important that we work in partnership with all of our customers to help them to achieve their potential.”

It’s demonstrative of the company’s ongoing commitment to its original ethics, one of which was to always be co-operative. With over 15,000 retail partners worldwide, it’s a working relationship that continues to be integral to Bestseller’s success, despite its own

standalone retail model, which comprises 3,000 stores worldwide.

The biggest development over the next few seasons, however, will take place within the brand’s ecommerce channels. Retailing via both Bestseller.com and individual domains for Vero Moda, Selected Femme, Junarose and so on, the collections have a substantial online presence, but operate from the group’s Danish headquarters.

“As our UK business grows, we are hoping to bring these elements to the UK,” says Vad Nielsen. “We recognise the importance of communicating with our customers through online channels and social media, so our online platforms are a huge area of growth for us. We do of course work very closely with the brands in Denmark to ensure that the Bestseller experience and identity is consistent, but it’s also key to have the input of local knowledge to ensure that we are catering for our individual markets, and it’s exciting to see the prospect of additional expansion that can come from the UK.” Regardless of territory, Bestseller is set to maintain its core principles throughout each stage of its growth strategy and, despite 40 years in the trade, the group is all too aware that a brand can never become complacent. “We are still relatively young in the UK market and we are learning every day,” says Vad Nielsen. “We will only ever continue to achieve our level of expected sales if we remain flexible and adapt to the market on all levels from entry to premium.”

—

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JANUARY 2015

SEASON’S PREVIEW AUTUMN/WINTER 2015

MODERN SEVENTIES The experts at Trendstop provide an exclusive look at the key influences of the season — TREND WATCH Brand-by-brand guide to a/w 15 — PINK ROCKER Contemporary fashion takes a rock chick direction >>>

TRENDS —

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MODERN SEVENTIES Leading fashion forecasting agency Trendstop presents its exclusive a/w 15 suggestions for Modern Seventies – its key fashion trend for 2015. The Modern Seventies trend direction is set to influence womenswear fashion throughout the year, offering a clean and contemporary take on the 70s aesthetic with elegant lines and natural materials. Influenced by designers such as Celine, Fendi and Missoni, styles are minimal and structured.

—

ANNA SUI

OSCAR DE LA RENTA BAND OF OUTSIDERS

APPAREL: HOMESTEAD BLOUSE An ideal style for the daywear wardrobe, we see new-season blouses refreshed with a range of 70s-inspired prints, from tiles and geos to miniature florals. Loose-fit silhouettes allow for layered stylings with full or three-quarter-length sleeves, as delicate sheers can be used to introduce a luxe feel.

KAREN WALKER

APPAREL: NOUVEAU RETRO KNIT Warm winter knits reveal a Modern Seventies influence in a wide range of shapes that include sweaters, dresses and cosy shirting.

Earthy shades of chocolate, caramel and mustard are key, as seen across both fine-gauge and brushed textures, while tonal prints stand out in the form of oversized chevrons or geometric placements.

PRADA

RODARTE

ANGELO MARANI

MISSONI

TRENDS —

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JASON WU

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

APPAREL: VOLUMINOUS TAILORED TROUSER

ALEXANDER WANG

Cosy and comfortable, the season’s must-have trouser style makes a statement with tailored silhouettes in voluminous proportions. Executed in winter-conscious textures such as wool blends and suiting fabrics, we see how androgynous designs create refined looks for the office in a formal palette of muted tones.

KAREN WALKER

RALPH LAUREN

MICHAEL KORS

ACCESSORIES: MICRO SATCHEL

KAREN WALKER

Satchel bags are updated with micro proportions for winter, creating a compact yet chic must-have accessory.

Sturdy leathers make for structured styles in square or rectangular shapes, finished with buckled straps and worn cross-body. While classic designs look smart in neutral colourways, a contemporary appeal can be injected with tonal blocking or coloured reptile skin materials.

MARC BY MARC JACOBS

FOOTWEAR: WINTER LOAFER The loafer is revisited with a range of contemporary design approaches for a/w, creating a fresh twist on the classic style. Bootie hybrids are key, with retro colourblocking or material mixes, while more conventional designs look new with foil textures.

Ladylike heeled loafers catch the eye with fluoro-pop panels.

MICHAEL VAN DER HAM

DAKS

EUDON CHOI

Trendstop helps retailers translate seasonal key trends appropriately for their target audience. Discover Trendstop’s new buying guides to help you pinpoint the bestsellers of the season – simply head to Trendstop.com and click on Trend Reports.

To gain further insight on the Modern Seventies trend, WWB readers can join one of Trendstop’s complimentary Modern Seventies Online Briefings, which will take place every second Thursday of the month in 2015 – book your place at www.trendof2015.eventbrite.com.

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BRAND GUIDE —

JANUARY 2015

THE LOOK:

FLUID STRUCTURE

MES SOEURS ET MOI p Belgian label Mes Soeurs et Moi unveils a collection designed around soft, loose shapes in luxurious fabrics for winter.

Large, wrap-around cardigans designed to be worn as outerwear are key, while finer weaves add a fluid structure to the collection for draping and layering.

MARC AUREL p Marc Aurel launches its Catch the Style collection this season, comprising original, casual and fashionable designs for autumn. Colours are classically muted, with cream, coffee shades and subtle metallic sheens dominating the palette, while loose, unstructured styles make for a flattering fit.

MAC u Trouser specialist Mac presents four essential silhouettes for autumn including cropped, slim and voluminously-tailored styles. Classic colours including black, navy, wool white, grey and cognac emphasise the understated glamorous look, while luxurious materials lend themselves to the soft, unstructured aesthetic.

BRAND GUIDE —

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LUISA CERANO t Influenced by natural and casual styling, the autumn collection by Luisa Cerano is epitomised by casual luxury.

Subtle shades of cool neutrals, paste beige and flannel grey are the colour signatures, while bronze and metallic accents complete the look.

ATELIER GARDEUR p Soft & Smart is the focus for Atelier Gardeur this season as the German label experiments with culotte silhouettes, flowing fabrics and relaxed tailoring. Swinging midi skirts are also key, while taupes and greys add an earthy element to the new silhouettes.

B YOUNG p B Young incorporates the voluminous tailoring trend into its latest offer with the addition of loose-fit trousers in a fluid structure. Inspired by raw nature and city life, the range features shades of wood rose with grey base hues, while the brand’s signature menswear elements prevail to keep the feminine styling clean and contemporary.

CREA CONCEPT u Crea Concept focuses on texture for the new season, selecting its bestselling jersey and uniquely textured knits as the key materials for its latest designs.

Dresses are key, and the brand also introduces an expanded range of outerwear in its signature Crea styling.

OUT OF XILE t Easy-to-wear clothing with flattering lines is the hallmark of Out of Xile, and the British label continues with its laid-back approach to tailoring for the autumn season. Comprising eight stories, influences within the latest collection are eclectic, ranging from a night at the opera to Downton Abbey.

THOMAS RATH p New silhouettes and sportier styles add a new dimension to Thomas Rath this season as the trouser specialist unveils a range of wide-leg and culotte shapes.

The overall look alludes to bohemian flair, while exquisite materials enhance the drape of each style. >>>

MARIE & BELLA

LONDON SHOWROOM: Godske Group UK. Showroom: 65 Margaret Street, London W1W 8SP Tel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863 Email: pug@godske.com DUBLIN SHOWROOM: Godske Group Ireland, Unit 5, Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24 Tel: 00353 1 4295042 Fax: 00353 1 4295043

Autumn/Winter 2015 SIZE RANGE: 8-30 GODSKE • KIRSTEN KROG DESIGN • JORLI • HABELLA • ROBELL • FRANDSEN OUTERWEAR • TIA • I’CONA • Q NEEL • QUÉ • REFA • THAT’S ME BY JAGRO —

BEST SELLERS SPRING /SUMMER 2015 N.O.S.

We will be showing at the following exhibitions: THE GALLERY - DUSSELDORF 28th January to 2nd February 2015 - Fashion House 1 - 2nd Floor, Room 247 – 251 CIFF - COPENHAGEN 29th January to 1st February 2015 - Bella Centre Stand B3 – 241 PURE EXHIBITION - OLYMPIA 8th February to 10th February 2015 – Stand H124 & J129 London Showroom also open Sunday 8th February 2015 – Weekend of Pure MODA UK - NEC BIRMINGHAM 15th February to 17th February 2015 - Hall 18 - Stand I30 - J30 – J31 DUBLIN SHOWROOM Fashion City - with a Special Event on Sun 22nd to Tues 24th February 2015

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BRAND GUIDE —

JANUARY 2015

THE LOOK:

HIGH NECKS

BITTE KAI RAND u Danish label Bitte Kai Rand maintains its pure, timeless and clean aesthetic for the new season with a range of silhouettes designed to enhance a woman’s figure while providing freedom of movement. Playing with contrast, monochrome is key, while twists in cuts and tailoring keep the look contemporary.

TONI p Toni launches its new knitwear collection for autumn, designed to both complement the brand’s core range of trousers while also offering standalone pieces. High necks feature throughout the collection, adding cosy elements to relaxed glamour.

MARC AUREL u Comprising original, casual and incredibly fashionable designs, Marc Aurel’s Catch the Style collection focuses on shape and silhouette.

Colours, meanwhile, take a back seat as muted tones of cream and coffee let the brand’s new cuts and styles do the talking.

COATS FACTORY p New to the UK, Coats Factory

by Plesner offers a range of Parisian-designed outerwear with strong Scandinavian style roots thanks to the founder’s heritage. Clean architectural styling is brought to life with volcanic shades of pastel greys and navy blues within the brand’s debut collection for the UK.

BENCH p Designed with the urban explorer in mind, the key influences for the latest Bench offer are concealed functionality, comfort and freedom of movement with no compromise to style. Relaxed shapes are key, while layering always features strongly throughout the collection.

>>>

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JANUARY 2015

THE LOOK:

COOL PRINTS

CAMEO p Bold detailing and a truly unique aesthetic have been the style signatures of Cameo since its launch in 2010, and the philosophy of the brand lends itself to the autumnal print trend.

The Australian label teams its prints with feminine yet contemporary shapes for a directional a/w 15 look.

DOUBLE TWO u Shirt specialist Double Two unveils a range of new prints for autumn including floral and check designs.

The full-colour check design incorporates elements of pink, bluebell, brown and jade and is available in a semi-tailored fit.

FRANSA u Abstract is a key design theme for Fransa this autumn as the brand blurs floral, animal and graphic prints across its latest range. For silhouettes meanwhile, the new kimono shape emerges as a collection favourite, while culottes also feature throughout the range.

GEORGEDE p Combining its Parisian heritage, which stretches back over four decades with a new contemporary style direction for the new season, Georgede breaks new ground this autumn with its latest offer of softly tailored womenswear, comprising new prints, colours and fabrics.

BRAND GUIDE —

ADINI t Adini takes its signature look of prints and textures across natural fabrics and adds an uncomplicated aesthetic for a/w 15. Colours are inspired by a glorious autumn, with hues of forest green, midnight blue, rich rosewood, smoky blue and spicy paprika all featuring within the palette.

GELCO u Gelco delivers a diverse range for a/w 15, made up of two collections, each of which comprises three distinct stories.

Prints are key across the range, which sees base neutrals enhanced by jewel shades of opal, jade and frozen berry.

JOULES p Long-celebrated for its vibrant prints, Joules once again delivers with its range of exquisite designs that sum up all that is quintessentially English.

Florals are key, while hidden-away trims and details add a subtle signature to the latest range from the British label.

DRANELLA u Cool prints across easy, relaxed silhouettes are a key focus for Dranella this season as the Danish label adapts its signature style for autumn. Light materials are given a seasonal overhaul with muted shades while big checks form a collection hallmark for the new season.

RUBY ROCKS u Vintage prints are the inspiration for the autumn collection by Ruby Rocks as reinvented animal prints, paisleys and rose and poppy designs come to the forefront of the collection. The colour palette, meanwhile, takes its inspiration from Moroccan culture and the vibrant setting of North African street markets.

>>>

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BRAND GUIDE —

JANUARY 2015

THE LOOK:

LACE

DEA KUDIBAL u Danish label Dea Kudibal travels to the landscapes of Peru for autumn inspiration, returning with a texturallydiverse collection in a vibrant palette of orange, lemon, indigo and pink as well as classic black. Jacquard, embroidery and lace add textural depth to the range, which is entitled The Traveller.

OLVI p Handmade stretch lace is a style signature for Olvi – the Dutch brand that combines lace with forgiving linings for flattering yet glamorous styles. This season sees the brand offer its signature designs in 65 solid colours for autumn.

GODSKE u Danish label Godske maintains its commitment to deliver exceptional fit and consistent quality across its 12 labels for a/w 15. Specifically, Godske’s eponymous brand incorporates a super-soft velvet with co-ordinating lace story in shades of black, soft rose, red and burgundy.

FRANK LYMAN t Canadian label Frank Lyman incorporates lace overlays into its diverse autumn collection, which is designed around figure-skimming silhouettes designed to enhance and flatter.

ROSEMUNDE u Hand-embroidered vintage lace is a textural highlight of Rosemunde’s autumn collection, which is designed around a mystical theme. Ivory, copper stone, pearl grey and vintage blue make up the fairytale colour palette for the Danish brand, which will also launch its first footwear collection for the new season.

>>>

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BRAND GUIDE —

JANUARY 2015

THE LOOK:

SLIM TROUSERS

NATHALIE CHAIZE p Having been established in France for over 25 years, Nathalie Chaize arrives in the UK this season with a range of day and evening wear targeting contemporary woman. Refined casual style is key and simple silhouettes are given a unique direction with the brand’s signature French flair.

MAC u Mac opts for more voluminous styles as well as its classic cuts this autumn. Colours, meanwhile, remain understated, with hues of white, grey and cognac characterising the seasonal palette.

SOFT B u Soft B evolves its identity for a/w 15 with a sharper and more co-ordinated aesthetic. Tops in varying lengths complement slim trouser silhouettes, while knitwear is also a key focus. Each piece is designed with co-ordination in mind as well as standing alone, offering a range of combination options.

MICHELE u Shades of grey and a palette of frosty pastels deliver a clean look for winter as Michele focuses on its colour concept to underline the quality and value of its fabric selection. Black remains important as a base colour, brought to life through a variety of textures.

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JANUARY 2015

RELISH t Ultra-luxurious rock chick is the key inspiration for Relish this season as the brand unveils its latest range of fluid form dresses, skinny trousers and wraparound coats. Colours of the earth are illuminated with gold and silver highlights in true rock-chick style, while romantic shapes keep the collection feminine.

REFA q Specialising in jersey separates and co-ordinates, Refa returns for a/w 15 with an updated collection of easywear autumn classics. Design in line with the brand’s commitment to optimum fit, each style is cut to flatter while offering longevity thanks to the label’s classic styling.

THOMAS RATH p Slim silhouettes are enhanced by discreet military details this season as trouser specialist Thomas Rath transforms each of its styles into a design object through the use of carefully selected materials. Colours, meanwhile, are suitably autumnal, with shades of aubergine, petrol, grey and olive dominating the palette.

INTOWN u Intown presents Intown Jeans, Intown Outerwear and The Collection for a/w 15, comprising ranges in denim, coats and co-ordinating separates respectively. The brand’s jeans specifically are upgraded with new and smarter details across the label’s range of cuts.

FRANSA p Casual suit pants are a key shape for Fransa this season, taking their place alongside the label’s newer culotte silhouette. Trousers are designed to be worn with kimonos or the brand’s newly launched coatigans, which bridge the gap between knits and outerwear for autumn. >>>

BRAND GUIDE —

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THE LOOK:

TACTILE TEXTURES

CRUSH p Indulgent and luxurious, the style hallmark for outerwear label Crush is textural depth. Faux fur prevails across the collection, which comprises over 50 styles across both the day and eveningwear sectors.

JAYLEY p Specialising in outerwear and accessories including wraps, ponchos and scarves, Jayley is designed with textural diversity at its core including cashmere, fur and chiffon. The brand focuses on eclectic luxury for a/w 15 as it repositions itself to target premium accounts across the country.

MARBLE u Combining cool neutrals with flashes of jewel shades, Marble’s latest offer celebrates autumn with a tactile collection of seasonal pieces.

Soft-to-the-touch sweaters are key, while perfectly fitting denim remains a focus for the label with skinny, straight and boot-cut silhouettes in a variety of new shades.

FEVER LONDON q This season sees Fever London combine natural fabrics with modern textures including cotton, silk, wool and cashmere. Styling is vintage-inspired, with 20s Art Deco styling, quirky checks and feminine winter florals taking centre stage.

EVA & CLAUDI p Celebrating the elemental powers of nature in dramatic Iceland, Eva & Claudi presents a diverse collection inspired by frozen landscapes, volcanoes, the wilderness of the mountains and the spectacular Northern Lights. Cosy knits are key, brought to life in contrasting colourways.

>>>

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JANUARY 2015

THE LOOK:

OUTERWEAR

RINO & PELLE u Since its inception in 1987, Dutch label Rino & Pelle has specialised in high-quality leather outerwear at accessible price points. The brand has established an international presence and, this season, will offer a range of texturally diverse designs within its women’s offer.

LATTE u Dramatic capes and shaped jackets in intense colours are key styles for Latte this season as the brand adds an element of statement to its outerwear offer. Merino, viscose and cashmere are the textural signatures, while the overall design is modern and contemporary.

CHRISTINA FELIX t Designed around the philosophy of taking pleasure in dressing well, the Christina Felix collection comprises coats and skirts in contemporary and chic styling. Crafted in Portugal, the brand is committed to maintaining quality through the range and focuses on enhanced fit for flattering designs.

NOMADS p Prints are key across Nomads’ outerwear and core collection this season as the label introduces a diverse range of styles for the new season. The brand maintains its commitment to ethical production with its Fair Trade policy, which ensures workers are paid a fair wage to work in good working environments.

YUMI t For a/w 15 Yumi stays true to its roots with a contemporary collection with a quirky edge. Lots of fresh new shapes and fabrics have been introduced for the new season across both daywear and outerwear including prints, crystal embellishment and decorated necklines.

Black jumpsuit with embellished waist, Traffic People, price on request, 01245 280878; rings, stylist’s own

PINK ROCKER Directional womenswear takes on a rock edge with pink and metallic highlights this a/w 15. —

Pink faux-fur jacket, Urbancode, £75, website@urbancode.co.uk; tea dress, Pretty Vacant, £18, 01273 670455; socks and shoes, stylist’s own

Leather panel playsuit, £29, and black jacket, £57, Silvian Heach, 020 3432 6385

Black top, Traffic People, price on request, 01245 280878; skirt, Quilt, ÂŁ109, 07815 784316

Top with cut-out detail, Prey of London, £25, 020 3095 9724; clutch, Quilt, £170, 07815 784316; tights and boots, stylist’s own

Jacket, Traffic People, price on request, 01245 280878; skirt, Prey of London, £35, 020 3095 9724; ring and tights, stylist’s own

Print top, £20, and trousers, £25, Prey of London, 020 309 59724; boots, stylist’s own

Sequin playsuit, Prey of London, £30, 020 3095 9724; socks and boots, stylist’s own

Pink coat, Silvian Heach, ÂŁ64, 020 3432 6385

Pink top, Traffic People, price on request, 01245 280878; high-waist floral pant, price on request, Freya, 01536 760282; boots, Palladium, £43.20, 07585 300402; socks, stylist’s own

Knit top, £15.20, and skirt, £15.20, Lipsy, 0033 37774588; boots, Palladium, £43.20, 07585 300402; headphones, stylist’s own

Dress, Emily & Fin, £25, 020 7812 9992; boots, Rocket Dog, £32.50, 020 7380 8340

Photography: Darren Black, www.darrenblackphotography.com Model: Callie, Sapphires Model Management, www.sapphiresmodel.com Styling: Fran Lee, Production Element, www.productionelement.com Hair & make-up: Evan Huang using MAC on face and Fudge on hair, www.evanhuang.co.uk —

Pink jacket, Quilt, £550, 07815 784316; pink trousers, Traffic People, price on request, 01245 280878; boots, Palladium £43.20, 07585 300402

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale.

PREVIEW —

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SCOOP INTERNATIONAL Premium and directional womenswear show Scoop returns to the capital on 1-3 February , showcasing a carefully curated selection of brands across the ready-to-wear, footwear and accessories sectors.

—

HUDSON

ARCHE

MAJO LAB

BEAUMONT ORGANIC

Now in its ninth season, Scoop International is a firmly established date on the womenswear calendar for premium and directional fashion. Showcasing carefully selected womenswear against the unique backdrop of modern art, sculpture and installations, the exhibition is a truly unique experience, celebrating the synergy between fashion and art.

Brands arrive from all over the world to exhibit at Scoop, ranging from small and exquisite artisan labels to the industry’s must-have designer names with an international presence. French label Agnelle, for example, hails from the west-central commune of Saint Junien, where three generations of the same family have been handcrafting gloves in a 50-step process since 1937. Fellow French label Arche applies a similar artisan approach to its craft, bringing contemporary footwear and accessories to life with age-old techniques and in a myriad of colours because, in line with the brand’s philosophy, not everything has to go with black or brown.

For British label Beaumont Organic, organic cotton is the exclusive choice for luxurious fashion produced with a conscience. Predominantly made in Portugal, the brand moved some of its production to the UK last year

AGNELLE

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JANUARY 2015

• Scoop International takes place on 1-3 February at London’s Saatchi Gallery, Chelsea SW3 • Buyers can register online for complimentary tickets at www.scoop-international.com • There is a complimentary shuttle service between the two venues available throughout the three-day event

DE’HART

DES PETITS HAUTS

GOAT

MADELEINE THOMPSON

and unveils a collection of woven tartans, modern denims and soft organic basics for autumn. Easy-to-wear knits are key for French label Des Petits Hauts, with oversized cardigans, knitted dresses and jumpers undergoing a seasonal makeover with an earthy, warm colour palette and a hint of sparkle.

Italian label De’Hart adds textural depth to its contemporary styles for a/w 15, while British cashmere label Goat sticks to sharp silhouettes which let its tactile luxury do the talking. For British footwear label Hudson, meanwhile, autumn is all about pushing the boundaries of good design by taking a sideways look at timeless and traditional styles in women’s footwear and fusing then with a hint of British eccentricity.

British designer Madeleine Thompson unveils a new collection of luxurious knitwear, designed around the brand’s philosophy of elegance with ease. It’s all about the accessories for Italian label Majo Lab, meanwhile, as the brand presents a new collection of fine leather handbags in contemporary designs.

>>>

PREVIEW —

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SEVEN BOOT LANE

OTTOD’AME

RAILS

Hailing from the cosmopolitan city of Paris, Marie Sixtine brings with it a distinct, bohemian-chic style with a focus on detail and embellishment, spanning the luxurious additions of lurex, silk, leather overlays and gem buttons.

A new direction is the order of the day for footwear label Melissa, which introduces new architectural silhouettes for the new season in a range of unexpected colours and statement materials.

Italian label Ottod’ame brings femininity to the heart of contemporary womenswear with its fluid structures in luxurious, draping materials. Translating as eight women, the brand aims to celebrate every element of the woman with its soft shades brought to life with modern cuts.

US label Rails creates a new intersection in fashion, blending the comfort of Southern California with a contemporary and sleek sophistication. Relaxed, but always refined, the collection draws on influences from international travel to metropolitan living. Rails is dedicated first and foremost to the quality of the garment – the form, the fit and the feel – so that looking good means feeling good in everything you wear. British label Religion maintains its rock edge for the new season with its latest offer of contemporary womenswear, which is once again dedicated to the pursuit of individual style and the synergy between music and fashion.

TADA & TOY

RELIGION

PREVIEW —

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MELISSA

SARGOSSA

MARIE SIXTINE

TRANSIT PAR-SUCH

Footwear label Sargossa returns to Scoop following its successful debut last season with its latest collection of innovative footwear, which combines maximum comfort with stiletto-style heels. Each design is hand-lasted in line with the brand’s ongoing commitment to style without any compromise on quality and standards in craftsmanship.

Fellow footwear label Seven Boot Lane maintains similar standards in craftsmanship quality. The family run company is based in Somerset, and offers hand-lasted women’s footwear designed to transcend the seasons.

Newly launched London accessories label Tada & Toy arrives at Scoop with an intricate range of delicate jewellery styles, designed to both stand alone and be layered within the collection for a distinct and personalised aesthetic. Effortlessly flowing from day to night, each style is statement in its own understated way.

Manufactured entirely in Italy, Transit Par-Such focuses on original materials for the new season, utilising the skills of its highly trained artisans to produce each style as a standalone work of art. The low-tech collection is understated in design while being luxurious in its manufacture.

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JANUARY 2015

THAT’S SHOWBUSINESS

As the show season gets under way, Christina Williams caught up with some of the industry’s key exhibition organisers to get the inside story on making the most of trade events.

— SEEK HELP TO CONNECT With over 1,800 brands and 12,000 visitors at CIFF, we understand that connecting with the right person can sometimes be overwhelming.

That’s why we have the global relations department that is constantly working on new initiatives and services to make networking and business at CIFF as easy as possible. Two seasons ago we introduced 15 information desks, staffed with a dedicated team of guest managers who were on hand at all times to help both guests and brands with any questions, queries, tips or guidance.

Johanna Leitch, global relations manager, CIFF JOIN THE CLUB Buyers should be aware of the Retail Expert Club, which will be situated in Hall 3 this season. Six renowned specialists in French retail will be on hand to offer their expertise on brand strategies and overcoming industry challenges as part of either an individual meeting or a group workshop. Buyers can also take advantage of our complimentary personal shopping service to help to guide them around the event.

Camille Descollonges, sales manager, Who’s Next DO YOUR RESEARCH The Designer Showrooms at London Fashion Week showcases over 170 incredible emerging and established brands; some of which show exclusively in London. With such a wide variety of choice, and new names added each season, it’s always a good idea to do a bit of research online beforehand, and once you’re on site familiarise yourself with the floor plan – while each of the areas are zoned, Somerset House can be tricky to navigate if it’s your first time. If you are looking to make appointments, require PR contact details for the shows or would like someone to take you on a tour of the Designer Showrooms, we have a very helpful team on site to support your needs. Lastly, if you are planning a trip to the Designer Showrooms it’s good to know that Friday and Saturday are incredibly busy.

Caroline Rush, CEO, British Fashion Council

FACTOR IN NEW FACES This season seen an influx of new exhibitors at Moda Woman and, for buyers, the result is a range of fresh, new collections that can reinvigorate an in-store offer. When time is limited, it can be all too easy to overlook new brands as buyers catch up with established suppliers, but missing out visits to debutantes within Moda Woman, Moda White and Moda Noir can mean missing out on exciting new collections.

Sarah Moody, event director, Moda Woman TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE SHUTTLE This season will see Gallery unite the leading 200 international brands and showrooms in one map with 80 free of charge shuttle cars to transport guests around the event. The shuttle service also goes to CIFF, CIFF Raven and Revolver Øksnehallen. Just download the DRIVR app for free and Gallery will pick you up within minutes.

Christian Gregersen, CEO, Gallery USE THE CATWALK There’s so much to be said for seeing and visualising fashion at the start of the season – which is why our catwalk shows at Moda Lingerie & Swimwear are such an integral element of the event.

Seeing all of the new autumn trends brought to life is not only inspiring, but also a practical way for retailers to see what works and to imagine the showcased styles being merchandised back in-store.

Penny Robinson, event director, Moda Lingerie & Swimwear BE OPEN TO INSPIRATION Visitors to our show must have an open mind because, while they may have a list of brands they are focused on connecting with, they are sure to see something new that will inspire and excite. The HUB is a show for cult and credible brands and, as well as the platform for international brands to launch in Asia, it’s also the top destination in the region to find not-yet-discovered talents. Visitors to The HUB should really make the best out of their two days in Hong Kong.

Brian Chan, Visitor Experience, The HUB

PACE YOURSELF AND PLAN YOUR DAY Budgeting is a minefield, with a huge selection of edgy fashion to choose from at LondonEdge, so we’d recommend that you pace yourself and check out all the stands before placing your orders. This avoids any rushed decisions, resulting in well-informed purchases which lend themselves perfectly to in-store merchandising. Also make sure you pre-register via the website so that you can arrive with your barcode and gain speedy entry, take advantage of discounted hotel rates and get yourself a ticket for the Sunday night party.

Carole Hunter, MD, LondonEdge TAKE ADVANTAGE OF CLEAR NAVIGATION Chic Shanghai is the largest show in Asia so, while the event is a shopping paradise, buyers do need to be aware of the layout of the show in order to successfully navigate their way around. This season, the event is divided into lifestyle areas including Insignature for prestigious Chinese brands, Urban View for casual and sportswear, New Look for womenswear, Secret Stars for Fashion Accessories, Impulses for Young Designers and Future Link for fashion technology systems. Being aware of these zones can help buyers to locate the product sectors they are looking to buy into.

Bianka Toepper, managing partner of Jandali, European representative of Chic Shanghai DON’T UNDERESTIMATE THE RELEVANCE OF CONTEXT Moda Footwear is unique in that it takes place within the wider context of the UK’s largest fashion exhibition. Time and time again, buyers have praised the proximity of complementary sectors to the show, which enables them to see overall trends in womenswear across apparel, footwear and accessories during one visit.

At a time when so many purchases are made online, the true strength and point of difference for the independent lies in the ability to create, merchandise and sell an overall look in store; that’s why we always advise buyers to walk the halls and get an overall feel for the season before they commit to their autumn buying.

Sean O’Connor, event director, Moda Footwear

PREVIEW —

90 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — JANUARY 2015

MODA Brands will flock to Birmingham’s NEC once more for this season’s Moda, which takes place on 15-17 February. Rebecca Jackson looks at some of the new signings and returning favourites.

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POLA MONDI BY MERLA

EWA I WALLA

ONELIFE

Channelling its ethos as a brand designed for modern and active women, Pola Mondi by Merla boasts quality designs, precise finish and detailed work, and uses unique fabrics

by Italian and French textile manufacturers.

Currently, the brand is working on growing a loyal following, and so far its collections have proved popular. The range fuses classic shapes, strong colours and luxurious fabrics to create designs that are made to last and transition from season to season. Attention to detail can be found on the hemlines of garments, as seen through the contrasting colours on pockets and sleeves on dresses. Statement jewellery provides an extra dimension to outfits.

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Ewa I Walla’s collection, entitled Land of Dreams, exhibits new clothing elements such as rough surface zippers, which are featured along with the brand’s signature monogrammed red detailing. As well as floral wool in shades of grey, attention to detail is presented through the brand’s desire to tell a story via its pieces.

The range itself features seasonal patterns, popular and tailored feminine blazers with defining cuts, while cool and harmonious colours work together to emphasise the dream-like theme. Colours have adopted vintage tones, using the faded appearance to work with the theme. It’s a collection that takes full advantage of colours, manipulating grey, blue, cream, black and pink into garments.

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As always, Onelife’s ethos – “real clothes for real women” – is channelled through its latest collection. Focusing its womenswear on stylish yet timeless garments, the brand aims to cater for women of all ages and sizes. Featuring light hems and breathable fabrics, most pieces can be worn either individually or layered to add extra dimension. The a/w 15 collection is split into four categories. The first features a new line of “play” clothes that makes up most of the loungewear pieces and sees over-dyed spots and stripes made from viscose jersey. Most of the items are also reversible. The second is a basics range of vests, T-shirts and leggings, available in range of seasonal colours. Thirdly, a progression of Onelife’s bestselling styles has evolved to feature the on-trend colours of deep reds, charcoals and ecrus. Finally, there is a new lightweight knitwear range, designed for both day and eveningwear, and comprising skirts, trousers and tops. All styles are available in three colours – ecru, oxide grey and black.

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PREVIEW —

91 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — JANUARY 2015

JAMES LAKELAND

MARBLE

ELVI

A/w 15 sees James Lakeland using bold prints and quality fabrics. Staple items still make up the collection, while the strong Italian tailoring for which the brand is renowned will continue to evolve for the next range.

The emphasis is still very much on producing classic shapes for the modern woman, and the latest line uses a strong colour palette of chocolate browns, deep greys, shades of red and classic black. These colours make up the label’s animal print range, which is predicted to be popular, with animal print trousers set to feature.

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Presenting plenty of garments fit for layering, as well as soft sweaters and added sparkle, Marble’s a/w 15 collection incorporates the brand’s focus on practicality, style and quality.

Aiming to produce chic, feminine and timeless pieces, the range features cool neutrals and splashes of bold colours to reflect the season.

Shades of green are complemented by navy and camel, while turquoise works with charcoal and silver to create a striking comparison. Pink features across the collection, and is presented in two tones – baby pink mixed with charcoal and silver, and darker, rosy shades teamed with black and ivory, while hues of purple add a bright touch. The brand’s staple jeans have been updated to feature new colours, while carrying the classic shapes such as skinny, straight and boot cut. The new collection is available in UK sizes 10-20.

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A/w 15 sees an adaptation of classic shapes feature across Elvi’s collection. The focus is on easy-to-wear pieces in stylish fabrics, which the brand claims provides its customer with the feel-good factor. In the upcoming range, delicate pleating and asymmetric hemlines are combined with PVC and stud trims to give the line an on-trend feel. Highlights, meanwhile, come from bright colours mixed with a palette of neutral tones, as well as an extensive range of materials, spanning soft furs, linen and delicate chiffon.

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PROFILE —

JANUARY 2015

DIRECTIONAL HERITAGE Two decades on from its inception, womenswear label James Lakeland is taking its designs in a whole new direction, establishing a firm retail presence in Italy and targeting a brand new consumer demographic.

Christina Williams caught up with the designer himself to discover how his plans will take the label to the next level without ever leaving his current customer behind.

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W

hen James Lakeland opened its first concessions in Milan and Rome last autumn, there was a certain sense of completion and achievement. With a firm commitment to Italian manufacture and an affinity with the country that stretches over three generations of the Lakeland family, being retailed in its finest capitals of fashion was the final seal of approval for the British brand.

“The Italians certainly know their fashion,” says James Lakeland, speaking from Florence during one of his many trips to Italy to oversee the production of his collections. “Opening the concessions in Milan and Rome was a great achievement for us and, following the initial performance of the brand, we are delighted they will remain open for the foreseeable future.”

The retail expansion into Italy is just one key development for James Lakeland, a brand that is teetering on the edge of a key period of change and growth. Since its inception in 1993, James Lakeland has been committed to bringing designer fashion into the “wearable” realm, offering distinct yet accessible designs to women without any compromise on quality. It was always going to be a tall order but, as 22 years of successful retail shows, it’s an achievement that Lakeland has certainly met.

“I felt there was a massive gap in the market when I first launched the label,” says Lakeland. “There was designer fashion – which was all too often unwearable – and there was the cheaper, mass-produced fashion. My father and grandfather had both owned a factory in Italy, so I had a vision to create high-quality

womenswear, made in Italy in an accessible range of sizes with a very distinct look.”

Today, a thriving wholesale business, which spans 100 UK stockists, 40 Irish stockists, four standalone stores and 20 concessions is testament to the validity of that vision. It’s a model that is set to undergo a seismic change, however, and as Lakeland explains, it’s a development that will draw a very fine balance between taking the brand into a new direction without alienating its core – and very loyal – consumer. “The very essence of our new direction is that it is effectively an expansion,” he says. “We have overhauled some aspects of our design to create a range that is a lot more edgy and directional and, in that respect, we are targeting a new consumer demographic.

She’s younger and very contemporary, and our new collections will reflect that.”

The autumn offer from James Lakeland has even been expanded to include a size 6, in line with the new demographic targeted by the label. Similarly, the brand is looking to take on new retail partners in line with its evolving identity, which has developed beyond its current business model. It’s a development, however, that has been carefully planned in order to grow without ever leaving behind the heritage which has made James Lakeland so successful.

“Our classic James Lakeland signatures are still very much there,” says Lakeland. “We are a distinctive brand and we want to maintain that, and our newer, contemporary designs will sit alongside the creations for which we have become so well known.”

Coats and jackets, for example, are still a key focus for James

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PROFILE —

JANUARY 2015

“ OPENING THE CONCESSIONS IN MILAN AND ROME WAS A GREAT ACHIEVEMENT FOR US AND, FOLLOWING THE INITIAL PERFORMANCE OF THE BRAND, WE ARE DELIGHTED THEY WILL REMAIN OPEN FOR THE FORESEEABLE FUTURE”

Lakeland this autumn, in line with the label’s ever-strengthening presence in the outerwear sector. “Outerwear is a real signature for us,” says Lakeland. “Our designs are frequently picked up by fashion editors on a consumer level, and we have an extremely loyal following when it comes to our coats. Puffa styles are popular, while luxurious fabrics such as cashmere are a style signature for us as well.”

With such a substantial offer of outerwear, eveningwear and the brand’s core daywear offer, the James Lakeland range becomes more diverse with every season that passes. It’s a diversification, however, that can be double-edged, as each retail partner selects only key elements of the range that best reflect their consumer.

“The feedback we are getting time and time again – from a consumer level – is that customers want to see the entire range, but simply can’t access it in the stores that are geographically near to them,” says Lakeland, whose four standalone stores are all in the south-east of England. “Our wholesale arm is actually under-subscribed because we have such a diverse offer.”

It’s a phenomenon that has led to another tier of development for the James Lakeland label – a franchise business model, which is due to be introduced later this year. “Our strength has always been in retail,” says Lakeland. “Our new franchise model will help retailers to increase their presence, while allowing consumers to access our entire collections. We’ve always strived to support our retail partners – from supplying them with nice imagery for their websites or referencing them on our blog – and this is the next stage in the process.”

It’s an expansion that demands more resources and, in line with its planned growth this year, the James Lakeland team has made five new appointments across its design, retail and social-media divisions. “We know we need to engage with customers on a digital level,” says Lakeland. “We have a very strong following on Facebook and Twitter, with over 5,500 followers, but this year will see us focus on this area of our business to reflect our ongoing development elsewhere.”

From its digital presence to its new franchise business model, which will span the UK and potentially even Europe, the James Lakeland name is set to become more prominent than ever throughout 2015 and beyond. But however global the brand becomes, Lakeland is determined to always maintain his commitment to the core values he first had in mind over two decades ago. “Creating accessible and high-quality designer fashion for a diverse range of women was always my intention, and it will continue to be at the heart of all we do,” says Lakeland. “It is what made the brand so successful in the first place, and I hope it will continue to do so for seasons to come.”

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RETAIL —

95 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — JANUARY 2015

SIGN OF THE TIMES

Rebecca Jackson uncovers the stories behind the names of some of the UK’s best-loved retailers, discovering that even the most obscure store name tells a tale.

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ROOM 7 ROUNDHAY, LEEDS

ARKANGEL & FELON EDINBURGH The name Arkangel & Felon stands out from the typical offering of boutique names -- and that’s exactly what owner Sarah Cosgrove wanted. Starting out simply as Arkangel, the shop went on to adopt the second half of its name after Cosgrove yearned for something more memorable. The unusual pairing of an angel and a felon was chosen to create a direct contrast – a name that reflects the unique style choices and vibe in-store. “Clothes are hand-picked,” says Cosgrove.

“Customers come to my shop when they are looking for something different from the usual stuff you find on the high street.”

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Before the store opened its doors in 1981, owner Carol Bradbury wanted to call her shop Crème de la Crème. However, thanks to a last-minute name change (a change she doesn’t mind telling WWB she is glad to have made), the Leeds store is now known as Room 7. “Our first premises was in bay horse yard in Leeds city centre,” says Bradbury. “It was called Unit 7, and was a tiny room that developed into the name Room 7. We like how the name won’t date; it’s a strong name and adds mystery as to what the business actually is.”

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STICK & RIBBON NOTTINGHAM Inspired by the tools used during in-store consultations (a stick and a ribbon), Stick & Ribbon is well-known for helping customers achieve the correct fit to suit body shape.

With the name chosen to reflect the one-on-one consultation service provided in-store, the shop has become synonymous with the fitting process. “The Stick & Ribbon team is trained in style and colour analysis,” says owner Sally Longden. “The team is trained to offer guidelines on hemlines and clothing shapes to create the illusion of perfect body proportions.”

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POOKIE SILKSTONE, BARNSLEY “I get asked regularly where the shop name comes from and I am always very proud to say it’s because of my family,” says owner of Pookie, Rose Horsfield. Nicknamed Pookie by her family, Horsfield gave the store the same name, echoing the distinct family feel of the boutique. The award-winning Silkstone location was built by her father and brother. Following success at the Silkstone store, Horsfield opened a Pookie shop in Harrogate in 2012. The store was renovated by family members once again and boasts handmade fixtures and fittings, with wood sourced from Horsfield’s family farm in Silkstone.

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FORUM —

JANUARY 2015

RETAIL DIARY Having taken part in St Albans Fashion Week once again in October, we are amazed with the way in which the community continues to support the retailers in this district.

What’s nice is that all the stores get involved, from John Lewis all the way down to a boutique of our size. Though The Dressing Room took part in St Albans Fashion Week last time, 2014 was the first year in which we ran pop-up shops at the event. As far as selecting the merchandise was concerned, the schedule made this pretty easy, since each day had a theme or style for which we selected our products accordingly. Following the luxury wedding show on the Wednesday, we promoted our Butter by Nadia multi-way dresses in addition to our popular accessories. It’s the “original multi-way dress”, which uses a patented fabric – we’ve carried it for five years now.

We sell them well as occasionwear and bridesmaid dresses, as they are so versatile.

Olivia Burton watches have been a massive hit with our customers, too. We were the first UK stockist for Olivia Burton watches after we followed up an email they sent to us. They are now relatively well known, and are one of our top-performing brands. One of the interesting things about pop-up shops at events such as St Albans Fashion Week is the impact and value of our presence there.

Admittedly, the visitors are not necessarily in a shopping frame of mind, so it’s less about the turnover and the sales than it is about the exposure -- which happens to be fantastic. We meet new customers and develop new relationships. I genuinely believe that by putting your name out there and working hard you can make a difference to your businesses profile. It’s hard work but it pays off. During one week we took part in three fashion shows, two pop-up shops and held an in-store event to finish it all off on the Saturday. But the result was fun and ultimately translated into sales; the week ended at +67 per cent on the previous year.

— Deryane Tadd is the owner of award-winning boutique The Dressing Room in St Albans, and is a member of The Fashion Association of Britain (FAB) www.fashion associationofbritain.co.uk

RETAIL FORUM The latest news from the industry —

HAWICK KNITWEAR RUNS WINDOW DESIGN COMPETITION

EVENING OF INDULGENCE AT BOUDOIR FEMME Customers came together last month to celebrate an Evening of Indulgence at Boudoir Femme.

On the night, the Cambridge retailer launched its winter gift collections and the exclusive new brands Yawn and Cheek Frills. Guests were greeted with cocktails, and enjoyed macaroon treats from the pop-up in-store patisserie Fiona Patissiere. Also on offer was a prize draw with the chance to win a set of Yawn pyjamas. Guests left with goody bags, which included gifts from Cheek Frills, Fiona Patissiere and fragrances by Ruth Mastenbroek.

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UK retailers were recently invited to dress their shop windows with Hawick Knitwear products and enter them into the brand’s annual shop window competition. Despite unusually warm weather for the a/w season, a wide variety of merchandising style was received. Arthur Rennie, brand director of Hawick Knitwear, says, “The number of entrants and quality of styling was very high and made the judging quite difficult. I’d like to thank all participants and hope the effort of entering was rewarded with increased sales.” First prize of £1,000 worth of Hawick Knitwear products went to Bridport based shop Smith & Smith (pictured).

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97 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

FORUM —

JANUARY 2015

EXPANSION FOR THE WHITE RIBBON BOUTIQUE Plans are in place to expand the White Ribbon Boutique based in Norwich.

What’s the key to good in-store service?

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“Due to the unprecedented success and overwhelming support of the Northwich people, White Ribbon Boutique has decided to expand its operation by opening a new shop during 2015,” says director Sheila Torres-Fernandez. “We’re starting to look at suitable premises now the Christmas trade is over. It truly has been a fantastic start to a small independent retailer, especially given these austere times. Possibly the success is trading with affordable price points, offer a welcoming, fun atmosphere where customer service is foremost in our delivery.”

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“The whole Stick & Ribbon team is trained in style and colour analysis.

Knowing three basic body proportions enables us to advise the customer and helps us to help her to choose the right garments.

SALLY LONGDEN The team is trained to offer Owner, Stick & Ribbon, guidelines on hemlines and Nottingham clothing shapes to create the illusion of perfect body proportions.”

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TULCHAN LAUNCHES POP-UP STORE

“We help transform a woman’s outlook on clothes shopping by encouraging her to try different clothes away from her normal comfort zone – but items that will suit her body shape – all in a relaxed and fun environment. Giving a JANE FRIEND personal and completely Owner, At the Attic, Chipping honest opinion helps a Campden, Gloucestershire lot, too.”

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British womenswear brand Tulchan launched its first pop-up store for the Christmas season.

Based in Stratford upon Avon, the store was launched in less than three weeks from the initial concept. Michele Needham, MD of Tulchan, says, “At Tulchan we are excited to open a store in Stratford-upon-Avon, as a 30-year-old brand we’re not simply relying on our heritage. We are constantly striving to develop our brand and provide better services and products that our savvy mature female fashion shopper will love.”

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MY LAST PURCHASE AnnaMaria Quinn is the owner of Katwalk Casa in Royal Wootton Bassett, Wiltshire.

“My last purchase was a pair of Garcia jeans from our shop. No surprise there, as I love wearing jeans and have so many. These beautifully detailed jeans by Garcia are a black skinny fit, with destroyed spots and finished with studs on the front pockets. As they have a slight stretch, they’re easy to wear and a good fit.” Garcia was established in the heart of Italy in 1977. Contemporary designs fuse with intricate craftsmanship to form the brand’s distinctive denim range, and styles adopt a Mediterranean look, rich fabrics and iconic features such as the brand’s logo patch on the rear pocket of its jeans for a sophisticated touch.

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“At Anna we strive to meet every customer’s need. The staff are knowledgeable and attentive. The Anna girls give one-to-one personal styling advice and encourage clients to experiment – which in turn builds good customer relationships. This is only ANNA PARK Owner, Anna, Primrose achieved in-store, and our Hill, London NW1 clients consistently return for this personal approach.”

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“For me, good in-store service is all about personality and engaging with the customer – welcoming them, talking and listening to them, being helpful and polite and making sure they feel CLAIRE PATERSON assisted. First impressions count. It is important to Owner, Those Were be knowledgeable about The Days, Stockbridge, your stock and be able to Edinburgh talk confidently with the customer about it.”

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EXPERTS —

99 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — JANUARY 2015

ADVICE Industry experts answer your retail questions.

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HIGH-IMPACT INTERVIEWS — FROM THE OTHER SIDE OF THE DESK

HOW A DISTINCT BRAND DNA ALLOWS LABELS TO SURVIVE THE TEST OF TIME

People get very nervous in interviews – often including the interviewer. Ineffective interviewers can lead to making the wrong decision, and getting someone completely wrong for the role, who could be more of a hindrance than a help. Ultimately they will leave (by choice or by force) and you’ll have to start over again. But here is how to interview with impact, and make the right decision...

Before the eruption of vertical retailing and the explosion of the luxury market, most brands that sat in between these categories were calling the shots.

Avoid asking, “What would you do if...?” Get real-life answers, not hypothetical ones. Also, it’s not all about what people did in their last job – they could have skills and abilities that they have developed through other activities or interests. Avoid being ambiguous – asking about a project someone worked on in a team could lead to them talking about the project, when you’re interested in their team-working skills. Signpost to the interviewee what to focus on – “I’d like to look at your team-working skills, can you tell me about a project you’ve worked on with a team?’

Keep in mind CBI – Competency Based Interview = Circumstances, Behaviour, Impact = Completely Brilliant Interviews.

They had expansive marketing budgets to do so, because they had the turnover. Since the first major crash in 2008/9 and with revenues cut, brands in this arena had to cut costs. With the further expansion of the luxury market and the entry level sector boom, this led to consumers simultaneously downscaling for economic reasons and up-scaling for status (think Prada handbag with Uniqlo T-shirt) and all of a sudden the mid-zoned brands started diminishing. With increasing competition from adjacent labels that are getting their stories, price points and the “glamour” status right, there are few options to play with.

Throughout my career, I have worked with fashion houses and labels to establish their brand DNA. If your product is good and has visible values, culture, heritage and a great story behind it, your brand will resonate and survive the tough times and remain relevant through the changing landscape of fashion – a brand with integrity. To ascertain the essence of your brand DNA, exploring the construction methods once used and blending elements of current trends ensures you bring your brand into the now, and allows your label to become relevant in the market. Manifesting your brand’s history and culture into products created provides distinction from your competitors.

Ask yourself what triggered the conception of the brand, who is the targeted audience and what is your brand’s appeal in the market. By considering all components of the foundations of a brand, you will have achieved Brand DNA Synthesis – where all the elements of Brand DNA come together to create something new and providing scope for innovation. This would be documented visually and textually into a Product DNA Bible for the entire brand to utilise across all lines, packaging and products.

By understanding your brand’s culture, heritage, story and values, this allows consumers to connect with your brand and develop loyalty to your products over competitors. By having a stable DNA at the root of your brand, this guides the evolution of your products without straying from the uniqueness of what your label has to offer, ensuring a strong audience base that continues to buy into your offerings, providing longevity and survival through turbulent times.

Tara Daynes is a freelance HR consultant who is fully qualified in HR and employment law, and is a training specialist with 20 years’ experience. taradaynes@gmail.com

Jenni Arksey is the founder of Goose Design, a London apparel trend and design agency. www.goose.london

Forget old-school questions such as, “Where do you see yourself in five years’ time?” or “What are your strengths and weaknesses?”

These questions are not helpful as they don’t give you the information you need to decide if someone can do the job.

The most effective interview technique is the Competency Based Interview (CBI). Firstly, identify what skills, behaviours, qualities and so on someone needs in order to be able to do the job well. In retail this will frequently be communication skills, team-working, customer service etc. Ask questions to find out not only if someone has those skills, but also real examples of when they have been demonstrated.

Start with a general open question (so that “yes” and “no” are not answers) about the competency you’re exploring, and ask more specific questions to get the details you need. Ask questions structured around a) circumstances – what the situation was; b) behaviour – what they did or said; and c) impact – what the outcome was. For example: • “Tell me about a time when you dealt with a difficult customer” • “What did you do/say?”

• “How did the customer respond?”

• “What happened in the end?”

DIRECTORY —

100 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — JANUARY 2015

GARMENT STANDS

HEADWEAR

STEAMERS AND IRONS

To advertise please call Sam on

01484 846069

HAT BOXES

or email sam@ras-publishing.com

RETAIL SYSTEMS WANTED

DISPLAYS

To advertise please call Sam on

01484 846069

or email sam@ras-publishing.com

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UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL —

JANUARY 2015

FERNE McCANN

Reality TV star Ferne McCann makes the leap from The Only Way Is Essex to fashion with the launch of her own collection this season.

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What inspired you to licence your name?

Seeing how successful the Kardashians have been and how they have marketed themselves as a brand has inspired me. I want to share with others my ideas and personal style.

What can we expect from your upcoming fashion brand?

Clean, classic items. Loose tailoring with a sophisticated, sexy twist. I am really into boxy-fit, boyfriend-style clothes with a glamorous twist. My favourite pieces in my wardrobe are timeless items that I have had for years and still love to wear.

How involved with the process will you be?

Very. I won’t sign off anything until I am 100 per cent happy with the garment. I am not going to put my name to anything unless I have been fully involved and happy with the final outcome. I am looking forward to designing, sourcing the fabrics and wearing my designs. Fashion is one of my favourite hobbies so I am very excited about the future.

What sort of women do you want to target?

Fashionistas who lead busy lifestyles and enjoy versatility. A girl who can go from the office to drinks with the girls and dress up or down to suit her needs and mood. Multi-purpose is a big part of my label that I aim to focus on.

What is your personal style?

Relaxed glam. I love boxy-fit tops with a wide-leg trouser, or a slouchy boyfriend T-shirt tucked into a jean and dressed up with a pointy, sexy heel. I really like to see structure in my clothes.

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INSIDER

— Who is your style icon?

I love to see what Pixie Lott is wearing – she is always really fun and dresses for her age.

— Which fashion business do you admire?

I love Topshop – I think every girl in the UK does! It’s cool, on trend and affordable.

— What’s the best piece of advice you have been given during your career?

Simply believe in your business idea and have absolute passion and love for what you do. If you don’t believe in yourself, no one else will.

— What’s the one fashion item you can’t live without?

A pair of pointy courts; I love my black patent Jimmy Choos. But any pointy shoe makes my legs look slim. I feel very sexy in them. They look great with a jean, a dress and any outfit.