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WHAT MAKES MARBLE SPECIAL DRIVING BUSINESS TO YOU We truly value our customers. That’s why we made the conscious decision not to sell on-line through our own website. You, our customers, are our main focus and our only outlet for each new collection. When we receive a sales enquiry from our website or social media, we will ALWAYS direct the customer to the nearest Marble stockist.

FREE POINT OF SALE To support each collection, we supply professionally designed Point of Sale materials free of charge to keep your in-store merchandising feeling fresh and new.

NATURAL FIBRES Most of today’s Marble collection is made from 100% cotton or a mix of natural fibres. We only use the most luxurious, breathable fabrics that are easy to care for and feel soft and gentle on your skin.

FREEDOM We have no set delivery programmes. We can also spread your deliveries throughout the season, keeping your stock fresh - and allowing you to spread the costs too.



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Moda Woman Preview – page 32

Front cover image ARGGIDO - 07512 550346 • 07

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I have to admit that, after months and months – years and years even – of consistent reports of booming online sales and steep growth for the ecommerce sector, this month’s report from etail analyst IMRG was an unexpected one. We have become so accustomed to hearing of the continued rise of online retail and its sheer never-ending potential, that it almost feels unfathomable that the ecommerce sector would ever become saturated and consumer demand for 24/7 shopping could somewhat dwindle. But IMRG warns that 2018 is going to be a tough year for online and multichannel players, with annual growth forecasts for this year hitting single digits at ‘just’ 9 per cent for the first time – against 12 per cent for 2017, which already underperformed on its forecast of 14 per cent. While the reasons for this slowdown are multiple and complex (you can read the full report on our website it does put the focus back onto bricks-and-mortar retail and offers a number of opportunities. I believe here is a chance for small, independent stores to shine and tap into consumers’ evident desire for a more personal and personalised shopping experience, in a great environment where from product mix through atmosphere to advice, knowledge and customer service, all boxes are ticked. And I’m not alone in this belief – industry insiders and commentators are predicting that 2018 will be a good year for small stores and independents with innovative concepts that can offer a serious alternative to the big brand names on the high street and online. But where does all this leave online retail? The market may be slowing down, but there’s no doubt that ecommerce has changed the retail landscape forever and, despite a slump, it will continue to evolve and develop, especially as mobile sales continue to surge, internet speeds are improving and the clickthrough experiences from social media and other sites are becoming ever more convenient, sleek and simple. Retailers of all sizes will have to continue to evolve, too, and invest in both their physical stores and the experience they offer, as well as their online presence. However, maybe 2018 will be the year that the balance between bricks and mortar and ecommerce will be somewhat restored.

Isabella Griffiths, Editor

Editor: Isabella Griffiths - Contributors: Laura Turner -; Christina Williams -; Victoria Jackson - Design & production: Michael Podger -; Clive Holloway -; James Lindley -; Richard Boyle - Sales manager: Sam Chambers - Sales executive: Michele Ali - Editorial director: Gill Brabham -; Portfolio director: Nick Cook -; Marketing director: Stephanie Parker - Reprographics & printing: ImageData Group 01482 652323


WWB is a fashion business publication produced by ITE Moda Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB. ITE Moda Ltd is an ITE Group PLC company WWB is published 6 times per year by ITE Moda Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2018 WWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither ITE Moda Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. • 09

New brand available from our showrooms and showing at Pure Exhibition Olympia Stand Nos C123 – C130 and C131, 11th Feb to 13th Feb 2018 Moda UK NEC Birmingham Hall 20 Stand Nos U41 and U51, 18th Feb to 20th Feb 2018

LONDON SHOWROOM: Godske Group UK. Showroom: Great Titchfield House, 14/18 Great Titchfield Street, London W1W 8BD. Tel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863 Email: DUBLIN SHOWROOM 2: Godske Group Ireland, Liam Lacey Ground Floor, 41A, Fashion City, Ballymount Road Upper, Dublin 24. D24DP92. Tel: 00 353 870966113 Email:

wwb news

News round-up Surge in mobile ecommerce sales continues The number of sales made via mobile jumped by 78 per cent in the last six months compared to the same period the previous year, according to ecommerce and digital agency Visualsoft. The data, pulled from over 1,600 UK retailers, also revealed total mobile sales revenue increased by 85 per cent year-on-year. The biggest boost to mobile sales was seen on Black Friday, when mobile revenue sales spiked to more than three times the average daily total for the entire six-month period. Visualsoft, which provides support to help retailers grow their businesses online, suggests the increase is indicative of the evolving ecommerce landscape, which retailers need to pay close attention to. “Mobile sales are booming as consumers increasingly look for the convenience and flexibility offered by shopping on-the-go,” says Tim Johnson, chief sales officer at Visualsoft. “However, if a potential customer visits a mobile site which is difficult to use, it’s unlikely that they will make a purchase. Retailers must therefore take steps to ensure they are developing fully optimised mobile sites to take advantage of this growth. “Harnessing the power of social media is also 2018 is set to be a tough one for etailers critical. Huge numbers of consumers use phones and multi-channel players alike, as the and tablets to browse apps such as Instagram, ecommerce sector is showing signs of a Facebook and Snapchat on a daily basis, so a maturing market, analyst IMRG warns. strong brand offering on these platforms with a Growth for the online retail market in simple and effective click-through journey can 2017 was 12.1 per cent year-on-year provide a massive boost to sales.” against a forecast of 14 per cent, with the annual forecast showing single digit growth of 9 per cent for the first time for BIRA NATIONAL CONFERENCE 2018. AND AWARDS 2018 UK online retail sales were up 12.1 per cent on average year-on-year in 2017, Tickets are now available for this year’s British according to the latest figures from the Independent Retailers Association (bira) IMRG Capgemini e-Retail Sales Index. National Conference and Awards on 10 May Compared to 2016’s YoY average of 15.9 2018 at the Jury’s Inn in Hinckley Island, per cent, and just under 2 percentage Leicestershire. Headlining the 2018 points lower than the Index’s 2017 forecast Conference is Levi Roots, who appeared on of 14 per cent, the fall in annual growth is Dragon’s Den in 2006. one of multiple indicators of a maturing Sharing his recipe for business success, market. According to IMRG, this is Roots will kick off the conference line-up of consistent with a three-year bounce speakers, who will focus on the future of retail. pattern of growth identified in the Index, The conference will include the return of with peaks starting in 2010 and repeating Breakout Sessions of Grow, Innovate and in 2013 and 2016. Challenge from the 2017 programme. Delegates can pick and choose from a range of sessions designed to create new ideas and help them face the future.


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BARBOUR LAUNCHES LIGHTWEIGHT WAXED COTTON GARMENTS British heritage brand Barbour has launched a new range of lightweight 4oz waxed cotton garments for s/s 18, designed especially for spring and early autumn. Created with a new special blend of waxes and oils, Barbour’s Lightweight 4oz waxed garments provide a high level of protection from wind and rain, yet weigh around 30 per cent less than Barbour’s traditional waxed cotton garments. The garments are made from American medium staple and pima cotton fibre spun into a very high-quality yarn to create a strong, pristine cotton fabric that is both lightweight and robust. The garments come with cotton linings, lightweight corduroy collars, zips and other trims to further reduce the weight.

WO M A N 18–20 February 2018 NEC Birmingham

Register for your ticket at

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LACOSTE AND PENTLAND FORM ALLIANCE Lifestyle label Lacoste and fashion, sports and outdoor specialist Pentland Group have announced a strategic alliance and capital sharing joint venture, owned 50-50 by both parties. Pentland will be in charge of creating and manufacturing Lacoste shoes, with Lacoste taking over distribution in key territories, while Pentland continues to distribute in the UK. Lacoste offers a complete range of products including apparel, leather goods, fragrances, footwear, eyewear, home wear, watches and underwear. In 2016, the brand generated a turnover of more than 2 billion euros.

A/W 18 edition of Scoop hailed a success

Australian swimwear brand Seafolly has appointed Paul Kotrba, former commercial head at DKNY, as its new CEO. The appointment is set to further develop the global growth potential of the 42-year-old brand. Originally from Vienna, Austria, Kotrba is an experienced global retail executive, with over 15 years spent in New York City at Donna Karan and DKNY during the period of ownership under LVMH. There he successfully built brand equity by leading the execution of the groups’ commercial growth strategy across the US, Europe, Middle East and Asia. Founded in 1975 by Peter and Yvonne Halas, the Seafolly brand has been led by Anthony Halas since 1998 when he became CEO. Halas subsequently grew the business across several international markets in Europe, North America and Asia. Seafolly is sold in over 2,700 doors in 41 countries through its own channels, leading retailers and major online sites. There are 33 Seafolly stores (22 in Australia, 7 in the US and 4 in Singapore). Seafolly also operates another premium swimwear and apparel resort brand, Miléa, and a chain of multi-brand swimwear stores under the Sunburn banner.

The a/w 18 edition of boutique trade show Scoop once again attracted a host of high-quality buyers from domestic and international independents and premium store groups. All attendees praised the curated edit of brands and buzzing atmosphere at the show. This season’s edition continued to deliver an exclusive and desirable mix of designer brands. In addition, partnerships with the likes of Villoid, the shopping platform co-founded by Alexa Chung, and independent retail portal Trouva, alongside a collaboration with Mercer 7 all added to the must-visit character of the show. Exhibitors commented on the calibre of visitors, and in particular an array of new stores and contacts made at the show. “We met many new retailers and have had a great response from all in attendance. There’s been a steady stream of interest from new independent boutiques, many of which have placed orders. Last year was very successful for us at Scoop and we are on track for this to be just as much of a success,” says Sabina Ebrahim, head of UK and European sales at Charli. Vanessa Green, co-founder of fashion agency from Middleton Green, mirrored the positive feedback: “Scoop is always a very strong show for us. We work with many retailers and stores anyway so are always busy at this event, but did see some new faces. It’s our fifth or sixth show and we are very happy with the results.”

POLISH LABEL ACEPHALA ENTERS UK MARKET Polish womenswear brand Acephala is entering the UK market for s/s 18, looking to carve a niche alongside brands such as J.W. Anderson, Jacquemus, MSGM, Wendy Jim, EachXOther and Acne, to which it sports a similar vibe. The brand was established in 2014 by duo Monika Kedziora and Bartek Korzeniowski and has been presented across a number of international fashion weeks and design contests. The collection offers clothes that are elegant, yet with a touch of quirkiness and art. Social contexts are addressed with the collections, which retail between £70 and £600. The brand is already stocked in Wolf & Badger online, as well as operating a cool concept store in Warsaw, with UK plans including to open a pop-up in central London, as well as grow via wholesale in relevant boutiques.

GARDINERS APPOINTED OFFICIAL DISTRIBUTOR FOR HUSH PUPPIES Wolverine Worldwide has appointed Gardiners as the official distributor and licensed partner for Hush Puppies footwear for the UK and Ireland. The move aims to strengthen the market penetration and sales of the brand in the UK and accelerate the further growth of the label across its men’s, women’s and children’s footwear divisions. “We’re ecstatic that our successful commercial relationship with Hush Puppies has evolved to full distributorship. We’ve made investments so that retailers can experience the best possible service levels. We’ve strengthened the sales team, not only allowing for nationwide coverage, but also ensuring that each customer experiences a personalised trading relationship,” says Alex Souter, commercial director at Gardiners.


wwb people

Your views on the issues shaping the industry.

Embracing change is imperative

Talking Point

JAMES LAKELAND Owner of the eponymous brand. l The changes in fashion can be so fast that to keep up is a challenge in itself. In December, we had to close our flagship store in Marylebone after 10 years due to the rent escalating to an unaffordable level. I loved that shop and it was a positive 10 years, but as retailers we cannot operate under that that kind of financial pressure. What was interesting was the amount of customers who came to our closing down sale and the support was really wonderful. But I never give up, and we went on to sign for a pop-up store in Kensington High Street and we opened on 1st February. Pop ups allow retailers to see if the area will be commercially viable. I have noticed that more retailers are facing this difficulty with leases and rent increases. Get advice and communicate with your landlord – if the rents they are asking will not cover your costs, be upfront and share information and figures. I realised that I needed to move on and re-invent the look of the James Lakeland brand. This year will be our 25th anniversary. We have created a lot of collections, but I started to realise that one should not be scared of moving on. The way people dress for occasions, weddings, communions, bar mitzvahs, Ascot, Henley, the theatre, going to church, mosque or other religious centres has completely changed. And one has to embrace change. We took on an in-house photographer and a completely new styling team and we do photo shoots every month. We use the photos to show our clients our new collections and our new image, and we use these pictures across social media, such as Facebook and Instagram, and our blog on our website. Social media is imperative to getting your message across, and keeping people engaged with the content can also reap positive results. For 2018, we are excited at James Lakeland, as we have grown our business in Italy on the TV channel hse24, and we have also solidified accounts internationally in Hong Kong, Australia, Greece, Spain and Germany. Our partnerships with various retailers have strengthened and I believe in communicating with our customers, clients, manufacturers and staff. The conversation has to be flowing in the fashion business to get results.


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Being reactive is key to retail success

DIANE SYKES Owner of multi-brand agency Diane Sykes Fashion Marketing. l While the New Year throws up new beginnings and shiny new expectations, it is also a time of reflection when the previous year can be analysed and improvements implemented. In this industry, just when you think you have it all worked out, there is always someone or something that can throw a curve ball to upset the running or indeed mix things up a bit, which requires us all to think on our feet. I always assumed (wrongly it transpires) that the longer you are in business, the easier it should be. Retail fashion must surely be the exception to this rule. Of course it is easy to mourn the “good old days” when buying was almost formulaic, a science in fact. You bought (some without even a budget) and then after four or five months of selling at glorious full price, sale time arrived and your stock was cleared by magic. A 70 per cent sellthrough at full price was deemed as average. It’s not all doom and gloom though. It is a much more exciting industry than it was 10 years ago. It’s much more about action and reaction. Thinking on your feet is de rigueur and it’s definitely more ‘immediate’ in terms of social media. There is a buzz to be had from the way we now interact in cyberspace with our customers. Although planning your season is always key, reaction during the season is more important than ever. I recently had an account who had achieved a remarkable 88 per cent overall sell-through pre-sale. Her secret? Well, this is the thing – she had done nothing differently to previous years; she bought normally across her usual brands, stuck to her usual budgets and did her usual prep, ready for the stock to hit. But she found herself in a position where a lot of her brands had applied big cancellations to their offer. Not just one brand, but many. A frustrating and worrying period ensued, after all having a smaller stock offer was cause for concern. Naturally she was going to have to buy more in season (citing a great case for your suppliers to have good B2B sites) but furthermore, because she was forced to work with a much smaller offer, she made good use of her old stock. Stock that was perfectly fine but had been squirrelled away and forgotten was pulled out, dusted off and reticketed. The result was a clear stock room and her best season ever, with great margins to boot. The best bit? None of it was planned. Of course, this was a totally extreme situation and there is no way retailers could take that approach every season, but we can learn valuable lessons from this. Every once in a while, it’s good to pull your belt in and clear the decks. In a society where instant gratification is the norm, it is also a stark reminder to your customer that when it is gone, it’s gone!


OfficialMonCheriEurope @moncherieurope



wwb interview

MANDEEP SINGH Co-founder, Trouva

Following its partnership with Jacket Required and Scoop last month, WWB speaks to Mandeep Singh, co-founder of Trouva, about the idea behind the online platform for independent boutiques and what it has in store for the future.

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wwb interview Victoria Jackson: When was Trouva formed? Mandeep Singh: Trouva was launched in September 2015, and enables customers to scour a huge array of over 80,000 distinctive, design-led products from the best bricks-and-mortar independent stores. My co-founders and I saw how technology was converging the worlds of online and offline retail and, while Amazon and some major retailers were adapting to this rapidly changing environment, independent shops – the lifeblood of bricks-and-mortar retail – did not have the scale and technology. So we set about building our own technology platform to take the world’s best offline retailers online. In just over two years, we’ve built a technology platform which empowers hand-picked offline independent stores to not just compete with, but beat the retail multiples and ecommerce giants, led by my co-founder and CTO Alex Loizou. Amid an accelerating industry shift to digital and omnichannel, the platform also offers real-time ‘click and collect’, one-hour delivery (it has a record-breaking delivery time of just 22 minutes) and worldwide shipping. VJ: What was the idea behind the launch? MS: We wanted to merge the worlds of online and offline to really give bricks-and-mortar boutiques an opportunity to compete with bigger businesses, like Amazon and eBay, by providing the tech expertise, delivery capabilities and scalability they need to reach a new customer base. In two short years since launch, the business has seen a 1,509 per cent growth in revenue and has doubled profits for some of our top-performing boutiques, with many of them already having achieved over £100,000 of sales through the platform. VJ: Does the shopper have one basket and pay for everything through your website? MS: Yes, the shopper has one basket and we handle all logistics, from click and collect to same-day delivery and worldwide shipping. By doing this, we’re able to charge a single, flat rate for shipping to the UK and internationally, no matter how many boutiques you’re buying from, as well as free shipping for larger orders. VJ: Were you working in ecommerce prior to launching Trouva? MS: I was previously a retail strategy consultant at OC&C, advising the likes of Arcadia Group, DFS and Asda Walmart, amongst others. It was here where I first saw the impact that online was having on offline retail. I then went on to become an investor at BC Partners, one of Europe’s largest private equity funds, which owned businesses such as Foxtons, Gruppo Coin/OVS, Intelsat and PetSmart/ I started my first ‘business’, doing web design, as a teenager from my bedroom, and my co-founder Alex has been coding for over a decade. VJ: How many retailers do you have signed up currently? MS: We have over 400 boutiques in over 119 towns and cities in the UK. We’re extremely selective in picking boutiques which customers will love, so cannot accept the majority of shops who want to join the platform – quality is far more important than quantity.

VJ: What do you think has been the key to your success? MS: It is not so much about success, but solving a problem. When we founded Trouva, technological innovation was disrupting the high street at a fast pace. Our mission is to equip independent boutique owners with the latest technology to enable them to have a competitive edge in the digital world. We’ve been able to innovate by working with independent bricks-and-mortar stores, for example, doing deliveries in less than an hour, even in 2015, or offering real-time click and collect. VJ: How does womenswear perform on Trouva? What percentage of the platform does it constitute? MS: We are a destination designed to give discerning shoppers a unique, nationwide edit of the best independent shops. Homeware is currently our largest and most popular category, with women’s fashion accessories coming in a close second. Women’s accessories and clothing represent approximately 30 per cent of our product range on Trouva. We work with hundreds of fantastic womenswear independents, including Our Daily Edit in Brighton, Maze in Bristol and The Wearer in Islington, London. These boutiques are spaces where customers can discover beautiful pieces to finish off any look, including one-of-a-kind womenswear, accessories and jewellery. VJ: You have partnered with Scoop and Jacket Required this season. What was the reason behind these collaborations? MS: Scoop is the UK’s leading boutique trade show, offering independents the chance to uncover a diverse and premium range of international brands. It seemed an obvious choice to partner with Scoop given the popularity of women’s accessories and clothing on Trouva. Their emphasis on curating the best brands echoes our own mission of uniting the most forward-thinking independent boutiques on one platform. Jacket Required offers boutiques the chance to uncover a diverse and premium range of international brands. The carefully curated selection of brands also reflects Trouva’s own mission of bringing together the best independent stores, run by independent buyers and curators, in the world. VJ: What do you look for in an independent retailer when considering it for Trouva? MS: As mentioned, we only accept a minority of stores that apply to join our community, as we have to believe that they are truly amazing independents, with a very strong vision and identity, and run by expert curators/buyers. Stores must have a bricks-andmortar location, with regular opening hours and probably have a loyal local following. VJ: And finally, what plans do you have moving forward? Would you open Trouva on an international scale? MS: Certainly. We want Trouva to become the global destination for the best independent shops in the greatest cities in the world. Whether we’re talking about Berlin, Montmartre in Paris or Shoreditch in London, our mission is to unite the world’s greatest independents in one community and global platform. • 19

ALL GODSKE BRANDS SHOWING AT THE FOLLOWING VENUES CIFF Copenhagen – Bella Centre – B3 – 241, 31st Jan to 2nd Feb 2018 Pure Exhibition Olympia, Stand Nos C123 – C130 and C131, 11th Feb to 13th Feb 2018 London Showroom also open Sat 10th Feb and Sun 11th Feb 2018 - WEEKEND OF PURE Moda UK – NEC Birmingham Hall 20 – Stand Nos U41 and U51, 18th Feb to 20th Feb 2018 Dublin Showroom Weekend, 25th Feb to 27th Feb 2018

LONDON SHOWROOM: Godske Group UK. Showroom: Great Titchfield House, 14/18 Great Titchfield Street, London W1W 8BD. Tel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863 Email:

DUBLIN SHOWROOM 1: Godske Group Ireland, Niall Scanlan, Unit 5, Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24. Tel: 00353 1 4295042 Fax: 00353 1 4295043

wwb profile

Known as the UK’s leading golfwear brand, Glenmuir is diversifying its offer with ranges that aim to attract a new fashion and lifestyle customer, in addition to its existing sporting clientele. For a/w 18, the brand has launched a focused capsule collection of contemporary knitwear classics in luxury fibres which are set to achieve just that. Isabella Griffiths speaks to MD Mikhel Ruia to get the low-down.

Tee off for GLENMUIR When you hear the name Glenmuir, you’d be forgiven for instantly thinking of golf, not fashion. Established in 1891 in the small village of Kirkfieldbank, near Lanark, Scotland by local businessman Andrew MacDougall, Glenmuir has become the UK’s leading premium golfwear brand, distributed in over 30 countries worldwide and worn on the world’s leading courses. Glenmuir is not only favoured by high-profile golfers around the globe, but also by celebrities and is a key sponsor of the Ryder Cup and other prominent golfing events. In 2002, Glenmuir was acquired by the Ruia Group, a familyowned textiles firm which operates a number of businesses under its umbrella, including hospitality textiles brand Richard Haworth and hosiery chain The Sock Shop, and is now run by the thirdgeneration of the Ruia family, with Mikhel Ruia at the helm of Glenmuir as managing director. It’s under his leadership that Glenmuir is embarking on the next stage in its 127-year history, with ambitions to expand into the fashion and lifestyle sectors that will see the brand building on its heritage and impeccable craftsmanship, taking this to a wider target audience. “It’s a natural evolution for us to be expanding into the lifestyle and fashion sector. As a leading golfwear brand, we pride ourselves on our craftsmanship, the quality of our products and the heritage and tradition we represent. Over the last few years, we realised that a lot of our golfing customers also use our styles – in particular knitwear – outside of the golf course, as part of their general lifestyle. Our styles are of the highest quality and very wearable and comfortable, and our branding has always been

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subtle, which I think has been driving this development. It’s evident that there is a niche and a demand for our products outside of the golf sector,” says Ruia. With two collections a year, the split between womenswear and menswear is exactly 50/50, with the range encompassing shirts, trousers, outerwear, polo shirts and knitwear, with the latter the main expertise and focus of the fashion push. For a/w 18, Glenmuir has launched a capsule collection of knitwear classics crafted from luxury fabrics and with a clean, contemporary look that will appeal to golfers and non-golfers alike. Glenmuir’s signature Touch of Cashmere fabric is at the core of the range, combining fine cashmere and combed cotton to create an affordable and durable alternative to traditional cashmere, while still offering its touch and feel, and features across key menswear styles such as the Munro, a cable zip-neck sweater with Glenmuir tartan. Another highlight of the range is the Graham, a crew neck birds-eye stitch sweater with shoulder and elbow panels, knitted from 100 per cent British lambswool, which is also resilient, shrink resistant and machine washable. For women, collection highlights include the Maya and Leona styles, functional sweaters made from 100 per cent extra fine Italian merino – an active smart fibre that reacts to climatic changes and keeps the wearer warm when the weather turns cold and cool in warmer temperatures. The capsule collection signifies Glenmuir’s lifestyle ambitions and is the first of many more planned fashion-led ranges in the future – though Ruia is keen to stress that any such developments will always stay true to Glenmuir’s roots and heritage. “We very much see ourselves as a

wwb profile

premium lifestyle sports brand – we will never be a fashion brand, that’s not our pursuit. But peoples’ lifestyles are changing, the synergies between day and casualwear are increasing. You only have to look at the athleisure trend and how commonplace sportswear has become as part of peoples’ general day-to-day outfits – they don’t just wear them to the gym. People want clothes that are versatile and that keep up with their diverse lifestyles, and our knitwear most certainly does,” says Ruia. With retail prices ranging from £79 to £160, Glenmuir appears to have a commercial balance between high quality and affordability. Wholesale is the main route to market, and currently Glenmuir has over 2000 stockists in the UK and 2,000 stockists overseas, mainly sportswear independents and famous golfing resorts such as Gleneagles, Trump Turnberry, Old Course St. Andrews, Royal Lytham, Royal St. George’s, K Club, Le Golf National Paris, Royal Melbourne and House of Bruar. This, however, is changing, with fashion independents increasingly taking note of Glenmuir’s lifestyle offer, and this is something the brand is looking to build on. “We are starting to see real momentum with fashion and lifestyle stores that are picking up on our brand. There is no real risk for retailers to trial us, as we offer a comprehensive stock service where retailers can buy as little or as much from us as they like, and we are able to top this up on demand, which eliminates a lot of the hesitation some boutique owners may have towards a new brand. Those stores who have trialled us have had great success and we’ve had

very positive feedback, which encourages us in our pursuit,” says Ruia. Glenmuir is evidently on a growth path – in the UK alone it saw an 8 per cent rise in turnover last year – and its expansion potential spans not only fashion indies, but also online. With the brand’s e-commerce website currently constituting just 5 per cent of the business, Ruia feels that investment in Glenmuir’s online channel offers further potential for future growth and expansion. 127 years after it was established in Lanark, Glenmuir clearly knows a thing or two about longevity and continuity. Ruia believes that a mixture of staying true to its legacy while also embracing change is key to the lasting success of the brand – as well as focusing on the product, first and foremost. “It’s important to stay authentic to your heritage, but also to keep innovating. It’s easy to be stuck in the past, but Glenmuir has always kept on developing and evolving, and I believe this has been key to why the brand is still around, while many other brands have faltered. We have always embraced technical advances and have incorporated them into our ranges. Our heritage is real, not a fabricated one like those of many socalled ‘heritage brands’ – we are truly a Scottish brand, made in Scotland and with genuine history and roots,” says Ruia. “Looking ahead, we will continue in this vein. It’s not easy to grow in a highly competitive market, but we will continue to focus on our products, keep moving upmarket in terms of quality, but still give value, and I believe the rest will evolve organically,” he adds. • 23

wwb collection news

fashion news

The new launches, brand developments and products not to miss for a/w 18. Nature inspires Capri Clothing’s a/w range Capri Clothing is building on recent international expansion, particularly across European markets, for a/w 18, with a collection that takes inspiration from nature and forest walks. Textural prints combined with cosmopolitan shapes dominate in the collection, with motifs taking inspiration from falling autumn leaves, acorns and natural markings. There is a fresh new colour palette focused on burnt orange, mustard and red hues, while cooling blues and neutral shades also feature. Textural fabrics form the basis for many key styles, while new dresses and skirt shapes, for instance, on printed cord, inject newness and innovation. Other highlights include V-neck tunics and luxurious dresses with pockets, and a line of new jewellery adds special detail to seasonal outfits.

By Basics of Denmark is making its debut at Moda this February with a premium collection using bamboo, and tumble dry Merino wool in 72 vibrant colours across the two collections. Showing spring 18 short order (delivery five weeks from order) and a/w 18, both available on stand X24. There is no minimum order requirement and in-season repeats are available.

Godske Group launches new label Gomaye Danish fashion house Godske Group is launching a new label for a/w 18, Gomaye. The brand is inspired by international trends but has a distinct Nordic touch, aimed at women with a cool yet feminine attitude. The brand will be pitched as a more commercial collection alongside brands such as By Malene Birger, Heartmade, Ganni, Stine Goya, Day and Tiger of Sweden. Gomaye’s a/w 18 collection reflects the easy-going yet fashionable Scandinavian lifestyle. The mood of the collection is rooted in casual city life and the colour scheme mirrors that with warm yellow and orange shades, earthy browns and greens, reds and classic blacks key. High-quality fabrics such as silk, rich velour, delicate lace and comfortable wool form the foundations of the range. Furthermore, the collection features selected styles made from recycled polyester and eco-friendly wool with minimum of water usage in production. From long dresses to high-waisted, plaid trousers for office wear, Gomaye offers effortless, contemporary fashion. • 25

wwb fashion

Style FILE Premium British knitwear brand GENEVIEVE SWEENEY strives to keep traditional methods alive through innovative creative work. The designer is inspired by heritage techniques and uses a network of practitioners across the UK to produce her unique pieces. Her signature style of colour blocking, clean lines and unusual yarn blends marries contemporary styling with artisan finishes.


British ethical brand IN-GRID was founded by husband and wife team Adam and Katie Barclay just over a year ago. The brand specialises in white shirts, and has also expanded into dresses and bridalwear, applying its ethical design principles. The mantra of in-grid is simple and based on sustainable, long-lasting styles – the antidote to the throwaway, fast-fashion culture – all handmade in England.

Italian bag brand CAMPOMAGGI is making its UK debut for a/w 18 with handcrafted pieces created from the finest leathers in Tuscany. Each bag is made to last and be of timeless beauty, with the leather getting better with age. Campomaggi already has some selected boutique stockists in the UK and is looking to expand further this season.

Danish brand AMOV APPAREL was founded in 2015, striving to become a pioneer of change in the fashion industry. Amov combines organic, responsible and sustainable materials, a new recycling system and ambitious ‘giving back’ principles. The styling is minimalist, timeless and made to last, with high-quality fabrics at the core. The brand even provides repair kits for free, as a way to counteract throwaway fashion. 26 •

If you love statement jewellery, then look no further than Swedish brand CAROLINE SVEDBOM. All pieces are traditionally handmade using Swarovski crystals, semi-precious stones, pearls, cabochons and glass stones. The metal base is nickel-free raw brass that is soldered in parts and plated in gold or rhodium.

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Rebecca Rhoades

fashion radar Rebecca Rhoades is an independent London-based designer with a passion for creating beautiful pieces that flatter figures no matter what shape or size. Working from a state-of-the-art Wimbledon studio – and with UK-based production – the RR brand has seen steady growth since its inception in 2014 thanks to its modern and quirky occasionwear, which has gained fans across the age groups. With over 16 years’ experience working within the fashion industry, and as a Leeds College of Art and Design graduate, Rhoades’ creative talents have seen her move through a multitude of different areas in the industry, including costume design, corporate wear, bespoke and ready-to-wear fashion. Rhoades’ collections combine charming jersey draping, exquisite tailored pieces and immaculate attention to detail, with each style made to compliment any woman’s figure. Each print is individually designed in-house, which makes these garments one of a kind, while quirky pattern cutting and the fabric as the main element are key to the design. Brand adjacencies include the likes of AQAQ , Alice McCall, Cameo and Finders Keepers, with wholesale prices ranging between £28 and £85. The Rebecca Rhoades’ brand has grown throughout the UK and is currently stocked in 85 boutiques, with further expansion on the cards for the coming seasons.

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For customer services, please contact;

Premier Fashions

82 Mitchell Street, Glasgow UK G1 3 NA Tel : 0141 204 0699 email

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18 to 20 February NEC Birmingham

This season’s edition of national trade show Moda will once again bring together contemporary womenswear brands from across the globe with leading names in accessories, footwear and more. Rounded off by a host of topical seminars, presentations and a series of brand new retailer workshops, this is certainly one event not to miss. WWB brings you the low-down of what’s on offer at the show.

Moda Woman l Page 32 Moda Footwear l Page 42 Moda Accessories l Page 46 Moda What’s On l Page 50 • 31

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The a/w 18 edition of Moda Woman brings together leading contemporary womenswear labels from across the globe. WWB sums up some of the key brands not to miss at this month’s edition.

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New Zealand label FOIL offers a range of ‘throw on and go’ pieces which are versatile and fashionable. The a/w 18 collection features pops of bright colour, pastel tones, stripes and monochromes alongside soft neutrals. Chic winter styles and chunky knits are among the key pieces, while vibrant prints add further interest to the range. Stand S40



Marie Méro’s a/w 18 collection is all about warm winter tones with a spot of frozen colours, such as ice blue and glacier green. Cream, pale pink and soft greys take the lead, while flaming red is among the accent shades. The range features sporty and elegant styles, emphasising detailing such as pearls and studs, collars or decorative zips, which give each garment a unique edge. Stand S57


THE SHIRT COMPANY Moda newcomer The Shirt Company produces luxury women’s shirts and blouses. Each collection explores the purity of the white shirt in addition to classic trans-seasonal hues. The range is manufactured entirely from fine Italian shirting fabric. Each seasonal range showcases intricately designed blouses accented with pin tucks, frills, ruffles and pleats. Stand Q58 32 • • 00

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VLTs by Valentinas returns to Moda after a successful debut last season. Specialising in shirts and blouses made in Tuscany from the finest materials, each piece is a statement and offers eye-catching design details, in addition to impeccable fit and quality. Moda White, Stand W54 u


‘Sparkling space’ is the main theme in one of Faber’s seasonal groups, with silver, metal, anthracite, off-white and lilac dominating the colour palette. Eye-catching yarn twists are among the key design elements, while zigzag patterns also feature. Casually cut styles give a sporty edge that is enhanced by modern colour blocking and creatively placed motifs. Supersoft cashmere blends are among the highlights. Stand Q60


MICHAELA LOUISA Michaela Louisa once again delivers a versatile mix of elegant day-to-evening, event and occasionwear styles. Key trends have been referenced in the range, which has been updated with a modern signature. New textures and silhouettes have been introduced, while jewel tones and soft pastels sit alongside bold shades of blues, reds and greens. Stand T31



Carefully selected fabrics that emphasise colour and texture are the cornerstone of Fee G’s daywear pieces. Rich wool jacquards and embroidery embrace feminine silhouettes. Soft tailoring is seen in separates and dresses, while new silhouettes include sequin coats in contemporary shapes. Moda White, Stand X39 • 33

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Clean lines, classic shapes and colour blocks are Peruzzi’s signature for a/w 18. Trousers have developed this season, with more jean shapes, encompassing the perfect stretch and flattering fabrics. Complimenting tops and sweaters are also taking centre stage, with chiffon tops with gathered necklines and luxurious knits among the predicted best-sellers. Dresses remain a staple of the Peruzzi collection. Stand X49


Naya combines modern silhouettes with luxurious fabrics, referencing key trends across cleverly coordinated pieces. The range is designed for everyday wear, but always offers a twist, remaining true to its signature style, which ranges from lounge staple pieces to statement furs and rich-textured separates. Key colours include deep burgundy tones, rich moss and classic black. Moda White, Stand X50



South African label Habits specialises in a clever ‘Travel Range’ – all items roll up in a ball, are machine washable, don’t need any ironing and skim the body beautifully as they are cut to flatter all figures. A versatile colour scheme of black alongside red, navy, smoke, cobalt and hot pink rounds off the range. Moda White, Stand X28


HENRY ARROWAY Elegance in technical fabrics is the ethos of outerwear specialist Henry Arroway. Premium quality garments adapt to all environmental factors, while style always remains at the forefront. On-trend high-performance outerwear, including jackets, coats and parkas are once again the key pieces for this season. Stand W52

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Trouser specialist Up! Pants offers a blend of fashion, function and fit. The pull-on pants offer a slimming effect thanks to the built-in, trademarked ‘thincredible fit’ technology control panel. Fresh colour palettes are coupled with distinctive prints and textures, creating a versatile range of trouser styles and cuts. Look out for new leg opening details such as step hems, which are key for a/w 18. Moda White, Stand V59

Statement separates once again dominate at Bianca, with each delivery group divided into on-trend colour themes, such as vivid reds, greys, midnight blooms and navy. Trousers with go-faster stripes, tie-front blouses, leather jackets, block stripe jumpers and fluted sleeve tops are among the hero pieces, while knitwear is also once again among the predicted best-sellers. Stand Q50


L’ARGENTINA L’Argentina’s roots go back to the heritage of polo, and while the brand has developed significantly since its early days 30 years ago, it still has a smart-casual signature. Blazers and shirts are a popular staple of the brand, which always offers on-trend colour options and eye-catching details. Moda White, Stand V41



Danish outerwear specialist Frandsen combines functionality and style. The brand uses a wide spectrum of high-quality fabrics and fibres, as well as technical fabrics with breathable and water-repellant properties. Jackets and coats dominate the collection, with this season’s styles offering a chic and on-trend play of textures and materials. Stand U41 / U51 • 35

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Focusing on its Italian roots and dolce vita glamour, Latte’s collection for a/w 18 is its most diverse, colourful and artistic yet. Must haves include cardigan sweaters, drape shirts, long skirts, reversible coats and the brand’s signature tunics and knits. Colour is a central theme, with capsules including ‘Rockin’ The Red Berries’ and ‘Cinnamon Spice & Sparkle’. Moda White, Stand W49


MARBLE For a/w 18, Marble is introducing more natural fibres, which feel soft, comfortable, breathable and gentle on the skin. In this vein, the colour palette is also natural, with subtle neutral colours balanced with the more vibrant shades that Marble is also known for. All items are designed to be mixed and matched effortlessly, with timeless yet trend-led and contemporary styles key. Stand R40



Inspired by travels to three cultural destinations – Patagonia, Oslo and Budapest – Sahara’s a/w 18 collection focuses on a play of textures. Key fabrics and tones include tapestry, printed velvet and washed tencel in willow, damson, forest and moonstone for a layered, eclectic aesthetic. Signature bubble silhouettes, relaxed and statement draped shapes, as well as an expanded knitwear and outerwear offering in luxurious mixed yarns sum up this season’s style direction. Moda White, Stand V51

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525 America is known for high-quality cotton sweaters in modern shapes, textures and colours, with innovation always at the forefront. Designs span the spectrum from classic to cutting-edge. 525 America persists in pushing the definition of knitwear, which has earned the brand a celebrity following across the globe. Stand R79

My feet’s favourite shoes.

LEGeRO has what feet love. Lightweight. Extremely comfortable. Breathable. GORE-TEX®.

Marcus Baker M.S.S.F. • Tel. +44 (0) 7775 995547 •

MODA Stands. Q78 CAPES GILETS FURS CASHMERE SILK &DEVORE DRESSES PONCHO COATS WOMENSWEAR ACCESSORIES Exquisite ranges, original designs and the very finest of fabrics

+ 44 (0)1782 642534

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Canada’s leading name for designer faux fur outerwear and accessories is launching its latest collection at Moda. The finest microfibre yarns form the basis for trendy jackets, gilets and more, featuring custom lining and embossed buttons. The ethical brand redefines ‘modern vintage’ with a high-end, luxury feel. Stand R80


JORLI Jorli is all about feminine, on-trend looks with a quirky touch and younger signature. Luxurious materials with refined finishes and details give each style an exclusive feel. The range is predominantly based on statement separates which can be combined to create individual outfits. Stand U41 / U51



At Thought, simple silhouettes form the backdrop for artist-inspired prints this season. Natural, sustainable fabrics once again are at the core of the ethical brand, with colour palettes bursting with vivid shades and combinations. A play of textures is the central feature this season, inspired by every corner of the globe and its skilled artisans. Stand R71



Popular Danish brand B Young will also be showcasing its latest range at Moda, with its relaxed and yet ultrafeminine Scandinavian signature running once more through the a/w 18 range. Expect to see a vast selection of trend-led and stylish separates that can be combined for individual looks for any occasion. Stand V31 • 39

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Madness is an ethical label which has sustainability across its whole supply chain at its core. The collection offers a range of easy-towear and combine pieces, including shirts, blouses, tops, knitwear and outerwear styles, with vibrant colours such as hues of blue, purples and pink dominating for a/w 18. Stand Q68



Emreco’s a/w 18 collection sees a return of smart-chic, with a real influence of power dressing impacting the range. Soft pinstriped suedette dresses and jackets give a neat and elegant touch, with straight-legged trousers and supple knitwear complimenting them. Quilted jackets and gilets play a big part too, while colour block knits make a return in a variety of different styles and colours to suit everyone. Smart jacquard coats in vibrant prints add a further dimension to the collection. Stand R50


PICADILLY There’s a sense of opulence at Picadilly this season, with high-end looks a key focus. The collection also introduces a line of transitional pieces, Denim Days, which blend minimalist designs with abstract patterns. Nonchalant lighter garments include satin looks, embroidery and lace overlays, while mid to heavyweight pieces are crafted from luxurious velvet, faux suede and knitted pointe. Stand Q61



Canadian lifestyle brand Conrad C is all about impeccable fit balanced with comfort and style. The brand’s design team references the latest trends using fine fabrics, which culminate in a versatile and wearable collection that encompasses relaxed casual styles. Smart daywear separates and outerwear can be combined to create individual looks. Stand R80

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Spanish brand Scorzzo presents a stylish line of key autumn/winter trends at Moda, with a collection built around jersey pieces, as well as cardigans and knit dresses made from blends of alpaca, wool, viscose, cotton. Stand U31


FRANSA Relaxed and understated chic defines the signature style at Fransa. Femininity is key across all pieces, with the brand aimed at women who want to be well dressed and have an appreciation for fashion and quality. Colour and prints are the cornerstones of the a/w 18 collection, with bold blooms and tactile knits leading the way. Stand V31 q


Prints and colour define the aesthetic at Amsterdam label Smashed Lemon. New shapes and styles are presented in the a/w 18 collection, with dresses, knits, trouser suits, skirts and coats among the hero pieces, all available in a warm winter colour palette. Stand S40



Look out for unique tapestry fabrics mixed with the highest quality plain stretch crepes at James Lakeland this season. The ethos of the collection is urban glamour which the brand has never embraced before, resulting in a contemporary and highly stylish collection which is as versatile and on-trend as it is wearable. Moda White, Stand V39 • 41

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footwear KATY PERRY FOOTWEAR Stand G40 Designed by the ultimate Californian girl herself, Katy Perry Footwear is an exciting addition to the Moda line up this season. The range bears all the quirky style of the muchloved pop icon, together with the commercial appeal of on-trend shapes and a seasonal colour palette. Katy Perry Footwear arrives at Moda Footwear as part of the Global Brands Group.

Step up to a/w 18 with an unrivalled offer of quality women’s shoes. Moda Footwear brings inspiring new names on board alongside its core staples, covering all bases from heels to sneakers.

PAULA URBAN Stand B28 Paula Urban is inspired by the wanderlust of the young woman who wants to travel the world, but grounded by centuries of Spanish shoe-making tradition. The result is a directional range of styles with the unique artisan appeal of a company based in the shoe-making region of Levante. BIBI LOU Stand I4 Making its debut this season, BiBi Lou arrives from Valencia, bringing with it all the spirit of young, Spanish culture, Bibi Lou is a boutique shoe brand with a wide appeal. The autumn collection features on-trend silhouettes, including loafers, low-rise boots, block heels and sneakers, all designed to present an urban edge on fun, flirty and feminine footwear. MODA IN PELLE Stand G20 Footwear favourite Moda in Pelle makes a statement this autumn with a vibrant new colour palette designed to make shoes the focal point of the season. The brand stays true to its roots with high heels, urban boots and on-trend silhouettes, updated by new touch-me textures.



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EMU AUSTRALIA Stand H35 Sheepskin specialist Emu Australia has diversified its footwear offer in recent seasons, and its comprehensive range will be showcased for the first time at Moda Footwear this month. The brand is proudly committed to using selected raw materials from its local environment to create stylish shoes and boots with a wide appeal across the consumer demographic. ALPE Stand H11 Increasingly a favourite amongst womenswear retailers, Alpe makes a welcome return to Moda Footwear from the central Spanish province of Toledo. Look out for sumptuous textures in deep seasonal shades, each selected to echo wider womenswear trends and perfectly complement a cohesive a/w 18 offer. BENSIMON Stand D16 Bensimon is a brand new arrival this season, offering a styleled alternative to the classic sneaker. The French label defines itself as the most authentic, simple and affordable luxury shoe in the world, and will present a texturally diverse collection of shoes at its debut exhibition this month. l EMU AUSTRALIA




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footwear SUPERGA Stand H19 Achieve the ultimate in understated chic with Superga’s latest offer of easy-wearing sneakers. The Italian label unveils a range of uppers from on-trend metallics in rose gold to muted pastels and dove grey, designed for everyday wear from the office to beyond.


GANT Stand J37 Global lifestyle label Gant showcases its footwear offer for the very first time at this season’s Moda. Discover the brand’s authentic American heritage underpinned by a forward-thinking approach to distribution, which puts independent retailers at the heart of its operation. RAVEL Stand E29 Nail day-to-night styling with Ravel’s latest range of boots and shoes. Texture is the focus, brought to life with a celestial-inspired colour palette of crater grey, nebular blue and mirror metallics. Ankle boots in the form of lace-up, sock-fit and chunky platform shapes dominate the collection. EL NATURALISTA Stand G30 Tap into the power of the mindful consumer with the latest collection by El Naturalista. The Spanish brand combines traditional Spanish shoemaking with social and environmental values in line with its core concepts; people, planet and product. El Naturalista presents on-trend styles this season, ticking all the boxes of fashion and function.



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Sumptuous tones of petrol blue and deep berries make a statement of essential extras this season. Take a look ahead at the accessories brands not to miss at this season’s Moda.




MILAN FASHION BAGS Stand V77 The seasonal colour palette can be seen in its entirety across the Milan Fashion Bags collection. Muted pastels, dusky tones and deep shades of oxblood all feature within the extensive collection, across a range of silhouettes including on-trend rucksacks and roomy totes. PINEAPPLE ISLAND Stand Z34 Pineapple Island is brand new to Moda Accessories and a fresh new addition of bohemian-style jewellery inspired by global travels. Always handmade by true artisans all over the world, the collection is a refreshing take on ethical jewellery. ZSISKA Stand Y58 ZSISKA achieves its distinctive look through the combination of resin and 24k gold leaf, crafted into designs with the unique flair of its Amsterdam-born designer. The brand is based in Thailand and inspired by the diversity of cultures, art and nature inspired by its natural surroundings. ADELE MARIE Stand Y50 Renowned accessories label Adele Marie has become a regular name at Moda Accessories and a favourite amongst womenswear retailers and department store buyers alike. The latest offer encapsulates all of the signature style of a brand founded by the 46 •

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original Harvey Nichols buyer Adele Vanderkar, and offers up a few surprises in the shape of intriguing bead combinations and multi-chain designs. ZOHARA Stand Y39 Following its successful debut at last season’s Moda Accessories, Zohara Handbags makes a welcome return from Northern Ireland. The brand is inspired by the rugged beauty of its local surroundings and the dramatic Northern Ireland coast, defined by elegant timeless styles and finished off with chic metal hardware. KUSAN Stand Y69 Brand new to Moda Accessories, KuSan brings all the spirit of snowboard and ski life to the urban culture of the city. The London label produces all of its hats, scarves and purses ethically in Nepal from 100 per cent wool with a fleece lining, adding a social conscience element to a brand defined by winter style. ACCESSORIES BY PARK LANE Stand Z53 Mixed metal finishes have become a key look for Accessories by Park Lane, and this season sees the brand present a statement range in rose gold and silver colourways. Having increased its focus on appealing packaging, the brand harbours a wide appeal across the gift demographic and fashion consumer alike. • 47

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DENTS Stand P59 A flagship brand for many department stores and retailers, Dents is the iconic British leather label with a Royal Warrant for the manufacture of gloves. Retailers can once again tap into a royally impressive collection as the label returns to Moda Accessories with a range of fine leather gloves and bags and other accessories in the deep berry shades of the season. DANTE Stand T38 Dante takes strong steps towards the new season with a chunkier identity than has been seen with previous collections. Ontrend mixed metals prevail, while bold floral silhouettes also lend their influence to the brand’s latest range of shapes. ELIZA GRACIOUS Stand Y21 Boutique jewellery label Eliza Gracious designs a collection season after season that nails all of the key accessories trends. This time around, look out for intricate beadwork, dulled metal, ice blues and tassels, all presented in the signature style of a designled jewellery label. GABY Stand Y49 Gaby evolves for the new season with a sleek collection of jewellery in rose gold finishes and mixed resin charms. The brand is renowned for echoing wider trends in the womenswear industry, offering a wealth of potential for styling, merchandising and add-on sales in store. 48 •

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what’s on

Go beyond the product this season with Moda’s vibrant catwalk and seminar programme. See the trends, get the advice and be part of something bigger this a/w 18.

Face-to-face with success


Need cash flow advice? Want to turn web traffic into sales? Or maybe you need insider tips about competing against the high-street giants. Find out all the answers and more at Moda’s brand new, retail-focused workshops. Launching this February, the workshops will allow visitors to book onto smaller, more low-key sessions where they can ask the questions they have always wanted to ask in a laid back environment. Sunday’s workshops will be hosted by the experts from bira’s fashion division the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB). The sessions will harness all of the expertise of Britain’s industry body for independent retail with the added bonus of a fashion-specific focus. If you are pondering how to improve your cash flow or need advice on bringing more customers through the door without breaking the bank, this is the session for you. On Monday, the workshop space will be hosted by ecommerce expert and managing director of Statement agency, Dan Conboy. If you’re curious about the power of bloggers and social media influencers but don’t quite know where to start with bringing them on board, this workshop could be the springboard you need to improving your multi-channel best practice, and ultimately increasing your sales. All retailers know how important it is to get the numbers right, and Rachel Peterman is an expert when it comes to owning your cash flow. Your workshop with the founder of retail consultancy Carousel & Co will leave you full of confidence when it comes to maximising your sales and ready to take on the high-street giants throughout 2018 and beyond.

SUNDAY 10.00 – 10.30 Moda Woman catwalk 10.30 – 11.00 MWB brunch 11.15 – 11.45 Moda Gent catwalk 11.45 – 12.15 The rise of lifestyle concept stores (David Skaith – Winston’s of York) 12.30 – 13.00 Moda Directions catwalk 13.00 – 13.30 MWB Panel – The New Dandy (Lee Wardell - Verb Fashion; Carl Thompson - Hawkins & Shepherd; Karen Johal - Marc Darcy) 13.45 – 14.15 Moda Woman catwalk 14.15 – 14.45 The strength of independent retail (Julie Holden - bira) 15.00 – 15.30 Moda Gent catwalk 15.30 – 16.00 How to build an Instagram community that buys (Sam Burgess – Social Mouth) 16.15 – 16.45 Products that can help and prevent foot conditions whilst increasing your sales (Ronnie Irani - ex-England cricketer and co-inventor of OrthoSole) 17.00 – 17.30 Moda Directions catwalk 18.00 – 18.30 Moda Woman Catwalk and celebratory drinks

Book onto your workshop at Places are free, but limited.

MONDAY 10.00 – 10.30 Moda Directions catwalk 10.30 – 11.00 Global Fashion Outlook (Pia Ostermann – Euromonitor) 11.15 – 11.45 Moda Gent catwalk 11.45 – 12.15 How to unlock the power of micro-influencers to grow your business (Dan Conboy) 12.30 – 13.00 Moda Woman catwalk 13.45 – 14.15 Moda Directions catwalk 14.15 – 14.45 Q&A with Emily Stott - Trade secrets of a stylist (hosted by Isabella Griffiths – WWB) 15.00 – 15.30 Moda Gent catwalk 15.30 – 16.00 The future of retail technology (Ian Tomlinson – RetailStore) 17.00 – 17.30 Moda Woman catwalk TUESDAY 10.30 – 11.00 Moda Directions catwalk 11.45 – 12.15 Five ways to increase sales this year – without breaking the bank (Rachel Peterman – Carousel & Co.) 12.30 – 13.00 Moda Gent catwalk 13.00 –13.30 A/W18 trends (Louise Stuart Trainor – trends consultant) 13.45 – 14.15 Moda Woman catwalk 14.15 – 14.45 Need2bSeen – Show the world your business! (Tracy Ann Okezie) 15.00 – 15.30 Improve your email marketing. increasing open rates and clicks (Jon Tromans) • 49

ALL GODSKE BRANDS SHOWING AT THE FOLLOWING VENUES The Gallery Dusseldorf Fashion House 2, 2nd Floor - Room 2C - 202, 23rd Jan to 30th Jan 2018 CIFF Copenhagen Bella Centre – B3 – 241, 31st Jan to 2nd Feb 2018 Pure Exhibition Olympia Stand Nos C123 – C130 and C131, 11th Feb to 13th Feb 2018 London Showroom also open Sat 10th Feb and Sun 11th Feb 2018 WEEKEND OF PURE Moda UK NEC Birmingham Hall 20 Stand Nos U41 and U51, 18th Feb to 20th Feb 2018 Dublin Showroom Weekend, 25th Feb to 27th Feb 2018

LONDON SHOWROOM: Godske Group UK. Showroom: Great Titchfield House, 14/18 Great Titchfield Street, London W1W 8BD. Tel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863 Email: DUBLIN SHOWROOM 1: Godske Group Ireland, Niall Scanlan, Unit 5, Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24. Tel: 00353 1 4295042 Fax: 00353 1 4295043

Weekend escape What better way to celebrate the autumn season and awaken the senses than with rich jewel tones, luxe finishes and tactile fabrications?

Photographer: Richard Boyle Stylist: Victoria Jackson Make-up artist: Lauren Rippin Model: Gabriella

Poloneck – John Smedley £54.30 01629 530456 Shift dress – Thought £27.95 020 7607 1173

Blazer – Arggido £55 07512 550346 Trousers – Arggido £27 07512 550346 Ring – stylist’s own

Dress – Carla Ruiz £184 07512 550346 Shoes – stylist’s own

Dress – Luisa Cerano price on request +49 7022 705140 Jacket – Çiğdem Akın £54 07512 550346

Jacket – Latte £75 0141 204 0699 Jumper – Latte £47 0141 204 0699 Skirt – Latte £65 0141 204 0699

Dress – NU Denmark £30 020 7702 0203 Jacket – Cristina Gavioli £54 020 3432 6385

Velvet trousers – Cristina Gavioli £42 020 3432 6385 Jumper – Caroline Cashmere £90 020 8675 6522 Ring – stylist’s own


S TA N D V 5 9 D AV I D S M I T H M +44 (0) 776 761 4124 T +44 (0) 207 288 8704

w w w. u p p a n t s . c o m

GINA BACCONI 100 Years of British Fashion | | TEL: 020 8438 2000

wwb evening & occasionwear


elegance Evening and occasionwear goes full on chic and sophisticated for a/w 18, with classic shades and flattering silhouettes mixing with tactile fabrics for ultimate glamour. WWB takes a look at the key labels and this season’s style direction.  >>> • 65

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01 Carla Ruiz Carla Ruiz is moving away from the traditional eventwear looks and instead introduces wardrobe-friendly dresses that will take the wearer to all events and offers maximum versatility. Soft colours mix with textured fabrics, referencing key modern trends.

02 Loré Inspired by high-fashion trends, Loré has once again designed an elaborate range of evening dresses featuring an abundance of fabrics and texture combinations, including elegant lace, two-tone velour and novelty satin. Glamorous looks define the design aesthetic, with structural yet fluid and well-fitted silhouettes the main focus. Versatility is key, with each style designed to suit different occasions.

03 John Charles Lace and sheer fabrics remain a core ingredient at John Charles, whose a/w 18 collection remains true to its USP of ultimate elegance. New silhouettes sit alongside timeless classics, with the colour scheme remaining sophisticated and chic, mostly centred around dusky hues and pastels, neutrals and metallics.

04 Fee G The grandeur and excesses of the Baroque period provide the inspiration for Fee G’s a/w 18 collection. Luxurious fabrics and three-dimensional embellishments are used within the collection, giving rich depths. Scribble prints, rich golden jacquards and pearl beading provide a feast of pattern and colour, with a luxe feeling in both day and evening separates.

05 Cameron Blake by Mon Cheri The a/w 18 range is a classic, refined collection of special occasion gowns and ladies’ dress and trouser suits that lends itself to the notion that maturity should not compromise one’s panache. Flattering, graceful silhouettes are created through the use of illusion necklines and sleeves, thick shoulder straps and softly shaped skirts.


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Showing at Moda Noir stand V11

06 Tia Tia’s USP is based on feminine elegance balanced with current trends. Glamorous fabrics mix with feminine details and cuts, which culminate in stylish outfits for day and night. Exclusive looks that accentuate femininity are at the core, with fashionable looks for weddings, receptions or a cocktail party.

05 03 Showing at Moda Woman stand U41/U51

Showing at Moda White stand X39


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Moda, NEC Stand T11

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03 City Goddess 01 Fely Campo Fely Campo’s collection features dress and coat, and dress and jacket combinations, plus 20 new in season ¾ sleeve stand-alone dresses for end of April delivery. For the first time, Fely Campo is producing a small collection of daywear ‘with a difference’, using mainly suiting fabrics from menswear suppliers, expanding the collection into formal businesswear.

Pure opulence is the theme at City Goddess this season, with unexpected details and luxe materials taking centre stage. Sheer panelling, silk, lace, sequins and lurex form the basis for eyecatching dresses that are designed to enhance the female figure. Bardot, square and plunge necklines allow additional features, while clever and stylish design details make each dress unique.

02 Gina Bacconi Modern styling and a mixed colour palette of reds, black and metalics, along with tones of greys, neutrals with pops of yellow sum up the style direction at Gina Bacconi. Luxurious, tactile fabrics are sure to bring a breath of fresh air to every occasion, from lush velvets in pastel and jewel tones to intricate, delicate laces. Light chiffons digitally printed in soft watercolour florals are also key, while hand-beaded gowns and embellished tulle dresses also stand out.



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04 Michaela Louisa Michaela Louisa unveils a trend-led collection with new qualities and textures that create a chic and elegant modern image while remaining timelessly elegant with broad appeal. Vibrant jewel tones take centre stage, highlighting the sophisticated and luxurious feel of the collection, with sumptuous fabrics such as lace and jacquards forming the basis for eye-catching dresses and jackets. Floor-length gowns are also among the highlights, while jumpsuits add a contemporary twist.

05 Dress Code by Veromia The a/w 18 collection at Dress Code combines elegance and vintage glamour. Luxurious fabrics take centre stage, while tiny tassel details and pearl trims add little special touches. Tactile lace, lurex prints and textured jacquard are the core ingredients of the collection.

06 Zeila Ultimate glamour describes Zeila’s latest range, which covers sophisticated occasionwear styles, modern MOB outfits, cocktailwear and more, all with a distinctly elegant and contemporary signature. Dresses once again are the core category, but for a/w 18 they are complemented with an array of cropped jackets, coats, shrugs and fur stoles, which add texture and form to the range of chic outfits.

Showing at Moda Woman stand T31


Showing at Moda Noir stand V19


Showing at Moda Noir stand T6

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wwb evening & occasionwear

01 Mascara From show-stopping red carpet gowns through eye-catching prom dresses to sophisticated mother-of-the-bride styles, Mascara once again creates effortless statement pieces that are flattering yet functional. This season’s choice of fabrics includes chiffon, jersey, silk and lace that drape to create ultra-feminine silhouettes. Pastels and vibrant tones make up the rich palette of colours.

02 Miss Etern The new a/w collection at Miss Etern sees a focus on elegant winter brights, with red and royal blue featuring on coats and jackets, plus dresses and suits that can be worn again to different events. An assortment of tweeds and woven materials provide the backdrop to the day into occasion collection, which takes its inspiration from Hollywood chic of the 1920s.

03 Crystal Breeze Colours are once again at the centre of Crystal Breeze, whether that’s strong and vibrant shades or pale and metallics, which are mixed to great effect. The latest range focuses on body-sculpting silhouettes with daring low backs, side cut outs and thigh-high slashes. All over glitter or delicately beaded vintage lace add a special detail, while fabrics include stretch jersey, satin crepe, satin and soft tulle.

04 Teresa Ripol A/w 18 at Teresa Ripol brings an injection of new ¾ sleeve standalone dresses, plus a small collection of light wool dress and jacket outfits. Taking inspiration from the 1950s, St Tropez and the French Riviera, this collection features glamour and sophistication, with rich berry colours and vibrant jewel shades all adding an air of understated affluence.

Showing at Moda Noir stand T11

02 01

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wwb interview

Louise Deverell-Smith is a former fashion professional who gave up her career in wholesale for the likes of Diesel and G-Star to set up an innovative matchmaking platform, which links flexible employers with talented parents who are looking to ditch the traditional 9 to 5. With a new and expanding fashion division led by industry head Katie Mene, the Daisy Chain is rapidly expanding and is looking to between their work and home life, and so the Daisy Chain was add more candidates – and born. I wanted to create a platform that puts employers willing to especially companies – to its consider flexible working in touch with some of the best talent out there, so businesses can keep experienced, highly capable parents in roster. Isabella Griffiths gets their industries. the low-down.

Isabella Griffiths: What is your background and when and why did you set up the Daisy Chain? Louise Deverell-Smith: I’m a fashion graduate and have worked in retail at Selfridges and wholesale for G-Star and Diesel. I began working in recruitment when I fell pregnant with my first child and realised that my current wholesale role wasn’t going to work for me – mainly the travel and entertainment – once I became a mum. Eight years and another two children later, I found that it wasn’t only me, but many of my candidates whose circumstances were changing. People wanted roles that could enhance the balance

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IG: What is the concept of the Daisy Chain and what differentiates you from other, more traditional recruitment agencies? LD-S: The Daisy Chain is a matchmaker, not a recruiter. We introduce forward-thinking employers to talented, driven parents keen to find roles that fit around their childcare responsibilities. For businesses, it’s about having a flexible approach to hiring, thinking outside the nine to five box in order to find that extra special someone to enhance their workforce. IG: How does the Daisy Chain system work? LD-S: Simply put, we match parents looking for flexible work opportunities with employers keen to find exceptional and experienced talent. Parents tell us what they want – position, sector, salary and location – and our system matches them to relevant employers. Those who receive mutual ‘likes’ are matched and this hopefully sparks the beginning of a lasting relationship.

wwb interview

IG: Which industries does the Daisy Chain cover already? LD-S: Everything from fashion and retail to property, finance, law, digital and marketing. We like to make sure we cover a breadth of sectors in order to help get as many parents as possible back, or into, employment and enjoying the work/life balance that is so often a little elusive. IG: You have recently expanded to include a fashion division. Which companies are already on-board, and what are your plans for this arm of the business? LD-S: We work with brands including Jojo Maman Bebe, McArthurGlen, London Personal, Mih Jeans and Jigsaw. And we’re keen to continue to grow our portfolio even more. Katie Mene, who heads up this division, has over 20 years of experience in the retail and wholesale market, and is the driving force behind this arm of the business. As a working mum herself, she’s keen to help other talented parents connect with brands willing to offer flexible working opportunities, be it on a freelance, part-time or full-time basis. IG: What are the benefits for employers registering with the Daisy Chain? LD-S: Parents are valuable to businesses; they are driven, bring a wealth of experience, knowledge and transferable skills – not to mention loyalty. If an employer is willing to think about flexible options and can design a role that will fit around existing childcare commitments, then they open themselves up to some excellent candidates who will benefit their existing workforce. We have found that the Daisy Chain attracts parents who have been pushed out of the economy by companies unable to consider alternatives to the staid nine to five, five days a week working model. As such, they don’t want to use a traditional recruiter, which means we have a rich pool of talent that won’t be found elsewhere. What are the benefits for candidates registering with the Daisy Chain? LD-S: The Daisy Chain is powered by parents. It’s about being totally clear and upfront about your needs in order to find roles that fit you and work around your childcare. Hopefully candidates will view this as a refreshing approach, because it is parents who are in complete control of who sees their profile and what message they want to put across to a potential employer. There’s no recruiter, no ‘middle man’ getting in the way and pushing roles that aren’t of interest. IG: How many candidates have you currently got signed up, and what is the portfolio and calibre of candidates? LD-S: We’re a young company with currently over 1,500 candidates on our books – a number that is growing daily. I’ve been blown

away by the talent we have at all levels and across sectors as diverse as property and fashion. IG: Do you feel flexible working is the future of employment? LD-S: Yes, without a doubt. Developments in technology have had a huge impact on the way we all work and nine-to-five – for most – is not a necessity. I often work before the kids are up then drop them off at school before heading to yoga and working for the rest of the day. If needed, I’ll log back into work once the kids are in bed and asleep. I personally prefer it this way – I am happier and more productive because of it. And I know that I am not alone. IG: What are the benefits for employers to allow flexible working conditions, especially parents? Does it help retain talent? LD-S: Absolutely. Employers able to offer flexibility attract and retain the best possible, most experienced talent. It fosters loyalty, better performance and promotes a happier workforce. The benefits are well established and research has shown that it can improve employee engagement and motivation. To me, it makes business sense to offer flexible working as standard, but we have a way to go before that approach is widely adopted. IG: What are your criteria for employers seeking to register with the Daisy Chain? LD-S: We want to showcase employers who embrace the flexibility a parent needs. It’s simple really, employers just need to prove they have roles that would work around childcare in order to join the Daisy Chain and connect with some of the most driven candidates available. IG: How are you finding attitudes among employers towards flexible working? Are some industries more receptive than others? LD-S: Attitudes to flexible working are not down to different sectors, but the decision makers within individual companies. For some there is a nervousness around flexibility – a lack of trust or control – that is stopping them from embracing a modern and hugely beneficial approach to hiring. Yet in reality, currently all employees can ask for flexibility after six months of employment anyway. We are finding that it is those open to an upfront and honest discussion, those willing to try implementing flexible roles, who are reaping huge rewards. IG: What are your future plans for the Daisy Chain? LD-S: As the conversation around flexible working continues, I hope the Daisy Chain can go some way to persuading a growing number of businesses to create roles that break from tradition in order to attract and retain talented parents in order to build a truly flexible, motivated and happy workforce. For more information visit • 75

wwb review

PICK OF JACKET REQUIRED Last month saw premium trade show Jacket Required showcase a womenswear edit for the second time, gathering the cream of authentic, heritage and independent labels around. WWB was there and picks the highlights.


Didriksons The outerwear brand once again impressed with its high-quality, highperformance parkas and jackets that withstand any weather condition in style. Fur trim hoods were key, on-trend features this season.


Spanx It may be mainly known for its slimming underwear, but Spanx has recently expanded to include a range of tops, leggings and jeggings, all with the same figure-enhancing properties, of course.


Kappa Kappa’s sneakers and accessories stayed true to its sportswear roots, though the womenswear collection was distinctly stylish and ticked off fashion and function. u

Ducktail Raincoats The Lithuanian label made its JR debut with top-notch unisex raincoats and some exclusive womenswear styles made from breathable but waterproof fabrics. 76 •

wwb review


Wrangler Wrangler’s collection had a distinct 70s and 80s vibe this season, with retro washes and styles dominating the best-seller list. q

Frye This season’s footwear collection by Frye had a distinct Coachella vibe, with cool and edgy ankle boots reflecting this theme, while leather sneakers and slip-ons ticked off the athleisure trend.


Schott Schott’s display of 90 years of its iconic Perfecto jacket was literally head turning, and the array of colours and details reiterated why the brand is such a cult label.


Armor Lux The French maritime inspired brand’s latest collection was a hit with buyers, thanks to its high-end mix of iconic Breton stripe tops, peacoats and wear-anywhere sweaters. q

Native Youth Having shown womenswear for the first time at Jacket Required, Native Youth’s range full of cool and understated pieces proved very popular. • 77

wwb e-tail clinic — essential ecommerce advice

The expert view: How live video will impact on retail experiences of the future


ANDRÉ HORDAGODA Co-founder of GoInStore l

With retail and ecommerce forever evolving, the following trends will make a big impact on the future of retail as we know it:

ALC EDINBURGH l ALC is a denim haven based in Edinburgh, founded in 2012 by Adele Louise Crombie. Its expertly curated jeans collections cover all the big names in denim, from Current Elliot, Denham The Jeanmaker and DL1961 to Dr Denim, Frame, Joe’s Jeans and Paige, alongside complementary ready-to-wear collections such as Needle, Maison Labiche, Rains, Rosemunde, Parka and more. Its bricks-and-mortar store and online counterpart attract a diverse client base, with the website emanating the friendly feel of the store online. You can shop denim by cuts/styles or brands, and an integrated ‘Shop Instagram’ feature cleverly corresponds social media with the shopping platform and drives traffic to both.

GROWTH OF LIVE VIDEO SOLVES THE OMNICHANNEL CHALLENGE By 2021, live video will account for 82 per cent of the world’s internet traffic – an important factor to consider for companies engaging with consumers. Online customer interactions with sales staff via live video will solve the challenge retailers have with high-traffic websites that yield much lower conversion rates than in-store visits. Importantly, it will also bridge the gap between the online and offline experience. People still like to buy from people. Enabling online customers to buy from people via their phone or laptop, at their chosen time and place creates a massive opportunity for retailers to help address the challenges of time-pressed consumers, enabling them to find what they need faster and more conveniently. LIVE VIDEO CREATES NEW CUSTOMER-FACING ROLES Live video is adding a new dimension to the way brands engage with their customers. Sales staff roles will extend into providing more of a visual and audio experience for online and in-store customers than simply carrying out a transaction, ultimately helping to improve customer experience and drive increased customer loyalty.

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STORES ARE BECOMING LIFESTYLE DESTINATIONS The bricks and mortar of retailing continues to change; shops and shopping malls will become lifestyle destinations. Customers will continue to research and make their purchase decisions online and still visit the store to immerse themselves in the brand experience. Live online product and brand demonstrations will be broadcast through shopping centres, stores and websites simultaneously, which will provide localised and personalised content and experiences for shoppers within shopping locations and in the comfort of their homes. LIVE VIDEO + AUGMENTED REALITY (AR) = BETTER CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE Live video featuring augmented reality will soon become the norm. While the live video element still provides the human interaction, AR will provide product and brand information overlaid on the live video stream. For example, a sales person can show pricing and graphical measurements alongside the physical product in the live video. This extra information provides support to the sales person and, importantly, helps the customer in making a purchase decision.


Styled by Steam

The ultimate spring buying destination. London Bridal Week will showcase the latest collections from an incredible line-up of occasionwear, childrenswear, prom and bridesmaid brands. Co-located with luxury buying event, White Gallery, retailers will be able to shop from a variety of styles and price points – all under one roof. The line-up of leading occasionwear designers includes Eliza and Ethan, Gino Cerruti, L’Atelier, Loré Prom, Mascara, Rachel Allan and Ronald Joyce, plus many more. The Bridal Retail Success Academy will run alongside the event, providing retailers with expert advice on how to run a successful business. Visit the event website to find out more about our exciting educational programme. Register at to receive the latest show news, collection updates and exclusive offers.

co-located with:

wwb Subscription To subscribe to wwb simply call us on: +44 (0)1484 846069 or visit EU £55 (includes p&p) Outside EU £94 (includes p&p)

wwb people

The last word with...

Hayley Menzies Founder of the eponymous label. What is your background and what prompted you to launch your brand? I studied at London College of Fashion 22 years ago. I’ve always made and designed clothes for as long as I can remember. Launching my own label was therefore a natural progression. You started out at Portobello market – how did this help launch your label? It helped enormously. I love the face-to-face with customers – they give valuable feedback and inspire me. I still have customers from back in my market days. Does London/Notting Hill/Portobello still influence your brand? Portobello is hugely inspiring – especially the Golbourne Road end with all its vintage stores and the market. And the people with their rock ’n’ roll approach to life – that’s my kind of customer, that’s my girl!

“I’m in my fifth season of knitwear now, which has become the main focus of my collections. I’d say it’s taken a couple of seasons to ease into this newness.”

What is the signature style of your brand? I’m in my fifth season of knitwear now, which has become the main focus of my collections. I’d say it’s taken a couple of seasons to ease into this newness. My confidence as a designer is growing and that’s definitely apparent. My signature pieces are my jaquard cardi-coats which have a wonderful impact on the girl (or guy!) wearing them. They feel like they’ve discovered something exciting and new – they feel confident and effortlessly chic. They strut!

What have been your personal and your business milestones since you launched your label? We launched in Liberty at the end of last month and currently have a window display there. That’s most certainly a big tick on the business bucket list and a big milestone for the brand. From a personal perspective, I would say that learning to manage people effectively has been a learning curve. I always strive to inspire my team and get the most out of them.

What inspires your work and your collections? My visual campaigns are inspired by iconic shots from the 60s, 70s and 80s. We recreate iconic images of muses such as Donna Jordan, Pat Cleveland or Jane Birkin – but I style the collection a super modern way. I hope that we capture the spirit and the energy though – that to me is important.

What are your plans for the brand going forward? I’m introducing more ready-to-wear, especially dresses. I actually made samples years ago and am finally using them, so that’s very exciting and something I very much enjoy working on. Watch this space!

Do you have a signature piece? The long cardi-coats, especially the Carousel Cardigan in red and grey. I personally love it, and so do my customers.

What is your personal style? I would say my style is feminine, elegant, eclectic, bohemian but modern. Do you have a dream (celebrity) customer? I just love Kate Moss. Always have, always will. No one compares in my eyes.

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UK Customer Services T: 0141 204 0699 E:




AUTUMN & WINTER 2018 Please call your local sales agent or email, to book an appointment: South East Helen Groom: 07986 434346 Wales, Midlands & North West Nick Sturmey: 07976 700312 South West Joanna Sturmey: 07792 280617 North East Susan Hardcastle: 07718 037262 Scotland Richard Kaye: 07825 187574 Ireland Jimmy Burns: 07740 794461 891 Great West Road, Isleworth, Middlesex TW7 5PD UK. Call: 020 8560 2323 Email: