WWB MAGAZINE JULY ISSUE 239

JULY 2014, ISSUE 239 £6.95 — WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK WOMENSWEAR BUYER

— LEEDS ACCENT The premium indie celebrates its 30th anniversary —

— GOLD RUSH Exclusive interview with Diesel Black Gold’s Andreas Melbostad —

— COLOUR EXPLOSION Young fashion shows its vibrant and bold side —

— THE BUYER’S GUIDE WWB kicks off spring/summer 2015 in style —

Apt Collections Ltd 路 T 0207 580 3202

Tel: 0207 636 7130 Showing at Pure stand K50 and Moda stand I31

Tel: 0207 636 7130 Showing at Pure stand K50 and Moda stand I31

Tel: 0207 636 7130 Showing at Pure stand K50 and Moda stand I31

Spring/Summer 2015

Crea Concept UK Ltd 34/35 Eastcastle Street 1st Floor London W1W 8DW Tel: 020 7 436 0631 Email: Paulette@creaconcept.co.uk Jade@creaconcept.co.uk www.creaconcept.com

11 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

CONTENTS —

REGULARS

FEATURES

FASHION

13 EDITOR’S COMMENT — 14 NEWS — 20 BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear — 26 TALKING POINT — 96 RETAIL FORUM The latest news from the industry — 99 ADVICE Experts answer your questions — 102 UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL With Toby Mott —

32 Q&A With Diesel Black Gold creative director Andreas Melbostad — 44 SUPERSIZING ACCENT The Leeds indie is celebrating its 30th anniversary with expansion and growth plans — 90 COUNTDOWN TO SCOOP INTERNATIONAL The latest signings to this month’s show — 94 FIRST GLANCE AT MODA A sneak peek at next month’s exhibition —

36 STYLE FILE — 40 FASHION RADAR — 50 SPRING/SUMMER 2015 WWB’s guide to the season — 52 COLLECTION NEWS — 58 BRAND GUIDE — 74 TRUE COLOURS The key s/s 15 looks from contemporary and young fashion brands —

— FRONT COVER: HAUBER —

SPRING

SUMMER

2015

TO BOOK AN APPOINTMENT PLEASE CONTACT JOULES ON T: +44 (0) 1858 435261 E: TRADE@JOULES.COM

13 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

COMMENT —

Editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com — Contributors Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — Sub editor Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — Editorial assistant Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com — Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — Sales Sam Chambers sam@ras-publishing.com — Subscriptions Laura Martindale laura.martindale@ite-exhibitions.com — Production director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — Portfolio director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie.parker@ite-exhibitions.com — Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com — Reprographics/printing ImageData Group 01482 652323

— WWB is published 9 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 — Copyright © 2014 WWB Magazine Limited.

All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

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RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLC company A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication WWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB.

THE GOVERNMENT’S REJECTION OF CALLS FROM CAMPAIGNERS AND LOBBYISTS TO URGENTLY REVIEW THE BUSINESS RATE SYSTEM WILL HAVE FELT LIKE A KICK IN THE TEETH FOR SO MANY SMALL BUSINESSES THAT ARE STIFLED BY THE CURRENT TAXATION MODEL. — It’s so obvious that the current business rate system isn’t working and is completely detached from the realities of the market, and the continued inaction on this matter is truly baffling (see our news story on page 17). How the government can fail to take seriously the huge impact business rates are having on small businesses – often being the final straw that leads to their closure – is quite perturbing, and a short-sighted approach. Not to review the system until 2017 at the earliest – and even then there is a question mark over whether this will happen at all – will continue to put unnecessary strain on small businesses.

How many more campaigners, reports and ultimately shop closures will it take before the government realises the urgency of the matter?

On a more positive note, this issue we are kicking off the spring/summer 2015 buying season (yes, it really is that time of year again!). And for the last few weeks the WWB team has been immersed in collection reports, campaign imagery, trend reviews and photo shoots – which we have all summed up in our comprehensive Buyer’s Guide. And while I have to admit to being slightly disappointed at the continued lack of true innovation in the mainstream sector – a lot of the trends and looks are updates of trusted classics – there are nevertheless a lot of commercial styles around

and a real focus on quality and saleability.

Wishing you all a successful season, I am bowing out for a little while to go on maternity leave and handing over the reins to my colleague Christina Williams, who will be taking over as acting editor for the duration.

Don’t forget to update Christina on your news and views at christina@ras-publishing.com, and say hello if you bump into her and the team at the many shows this season.

Isabella Griffiths, editor

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NEWS —

FLEXIBILITY IS KEY CONCERN FOR RETAILERS Buyers are seeking versatility as they look ahead to s/s 15 buying.

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Womenswear retailers across the board are seeking increased flexibility as they compile their buying strategies for s/s 15. Low minimum orders, potential for in-season buying and unrestrictive conditions topped the list of must-haves in a straw poll of buyers carried out by WWB, as the industry prepares for the buying season.

“Although my budget for s/s 15 will increase overall, I have decreased my pre-season ordering in favour of having a larger budget to spend in-season,” says Alexandra Boardman, owner of Alexandra’s of Keswick, Cumbria. “For new brands in particular, flexibility is essential because I need time to gauge the brand’s performance in-store before committing to it further. I am very excited about a label that is due to arrive next month, but I will have had the stock in-store for just a week before I’m buying for spring. This particular brand, however, had a low minimum order and reassured me that I could replenish in-season, and that gave me the confidence to buy.”

Fellow retailer Kasia Cole agrees that labels have to be prepared for a changing business model, which will see more buyers who are unwilling to commit to large forward orders, particularly where new

brands are concerned. “We are not averse to trying out new labels but, as a buyer, I reserve the right to try a new product on our terms, and a high minimum order will put us off,” says the owner of Swish Boutique in Marlow, Buckinghamshire. “It’s not rocket science that once we get to know a brand and sell its product well, we will spend a lot with them.

But we have walked away from a great product many times because the minimum order was unrealistically high. It was never our loss.”

As retailers increasingly seek strong sell-through across the board, many are minimising risk margins by investing into previously proven labels. And those suppliers that have justified their shelf space are at the front of the queue when it comes to allocating that all-important forward-order budget. “I really only forward order with my three key brands,” says Theodora Johns, owner of The Laundry in Wells. “We get a lot of positive feedback in-store from customers regarding certain collections, so they are the ones that we want to buy into season after season.”

And the labels that maintain their signature style while reigniting each new collection with fresh ideas are the ones that

“We are not averse to trying out new labels but, as a buyer, I reserve the right to try new product on our terms, and a high minimum order will put us off”

are most in demand for s/s 15. “I have already ordered my s/s 15 collection by Seasalt,” says Boardman. “I am very excited about its bold, botanical prints – they look very fresh and vibrant. We are happy with the general mix in our store,” says Kasia Cole. “We will be reinvesting in the staples for spring and closely monitoring in-season so that we can purchase more stock as and when necessary.”

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NEWS —

BETTY BARCLAY APPOINTS NEW COUNTRY MANAGER Betty Barclay has appointed Marissa McMahon as country manager for the UK and Republic of Ireland, following the departure of Stacey Booth last month.

McMahon joins from Nicole Farhi, where she was head of wholesale and franchising.

“Betty Barclay is one of the leading players in the market, and I am really looking forward to the new challenges ahead and taking the business forward for the future,” she says. “It is an opportunity for me to work with a wider range of independent boutiques in this dynamic and accessible sector of the market.”

Contemporary German womenswear brand Betty Barclay has over 280 wholesale accounts in the UK and Ireland.

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ROSEMUNDE STRENGTHENS UK FOCUS WITH NEW DISTRIBUTOR Danish brand Rosemunde has appointed Egomark as new distributor for the UK, reinforcing its commitment to and focus on the UK market.

According to Rosemunde’s COO, Torben Olsen, Rosemunde is looking to expand heavily in the UK following a relaunch of the label last year. “Over the last few years, we have experienced an increase in international demand for products that bear the Rosemunde name, and we have always taken our export markets very seriously. In the UK, there is huge, untapped potential with many opportunities ahead.”

Egomark was established in 2001 and is one of the leading high-end fashion agencies in the UK, selling brands such as Patrizia Peppe, Jucca and Marithe Francois Girbaud. Rosemunde, meanwhile, has established itself as a Nordic lifestyle brand and is sold in more than 1,000 boutiques and department stores worldwide. The collection will make its debut at Scoop this month.

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ASOS RESUMES TRADING AFTER FIRE Fashion e-tailer Asos has resumed trading after a fire at its Barnsley distribution centre forced the company to suspend its operation temporarily. The fire broke out on the evening of Friday 20 June, with the site, which is said to hold around 70 per cent of Asos’ £159m worth of stock, having been evacuated immediately. Initial estimates indicate that around 20 per cent of merchandise held at the centre has been compromised by the fire, though no damage to technology, automation or structure of the building was identified. Initial investigations by South Yorkshire Police indicate that the incident was deliberate, with a criminal enquiry under way as WWB went to press.

— NEW RETAIL PARK PLANS FOR OXFORDSHIRE Plans have been confirmed for a new retail park in Oxfordshire on Acorn Way in Banbury. The £80m development will be built on a site alongside the M40, with work starting on the project in September this year. Clothing retailers M&S, Next and Primark have confirmed they will take units within the Banbury Park development. The move will create between 800 and 1,000 jobs in the area. The site – owned by LXB Retail Properties – was formerly the HQ of motorsport company Prodrive.

The retail park is expected to be fully operational by December next year.

— RETAIL INSOLVENCIES HIT FIVE-YEAR HIGH Almost 1,300 retailers were declared insolvent throughout 2013, according to new figures released today by accountancy firm Wilkins Kennedy. The number represents a 12 per cent increase on the previous year, and indicates that retail closures have hit a five-year high. Closures were, however, across the full spectrum of the retail industry, with a particularly high rate of closure within the independent convenience store sector.

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NEWS —

SALES GROWTH FOR DEPARTMENT STORES John Lewis sales rose by 4.6 per cent last week on a year-on-year basis against the same time last year, with fashion sales in particular seeing a boost of 5.5 per cent. Competitor Debenhams, meanwhile, also reported growth throughout its second quarter, indicating that department stores are holding their own as the UK economy struggles towards a recovery.

The news comes as Debenhams confirms plans to open Sports Direct and Costa Coffee concessions within its stores as part of a wider move to offer a more lifestyle-led shopping experience. The retailer’s overall strategy – as outlined in April – is to evolve away from a reliance on discount-led sales and to instead deliver more full-price sales throughout 2014 and beyond. For John Lewis, meanwhile, the overall increase of 4.6 per cent in sales on a year-on-year basis was bolstered primarily by online sales, which saw a rise of 21 per cent in direct comparison with last year.

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INDUSTRY TEAMS SIGN-UP TO CHALLENGE POVERTY Teams from across the fashion industry are once again signing up for the ninth annual Prima Solutions Adventure Challenge, supported by MWB and WWB. Taking place on 20th September in the scenic Exmoor national park in Somerset, the event will see teams take on the challenge of completing a marathon distance on foot, bike and canoe. Funds raised will support leading poverty-fighting charity Care International.

The latest team to sign up are an intrepid bunch from Superdry, back to defend their company’s title after an extraordinary win last year.

Over the past eight years the event has attracted teams from the likes of M&S, Hugo Boss, Gucci and Michael Kors, as well as boutiques, suppliers and recruiters from across the fashion world, including teams from ITE Moda, publisher of WWB (pictured). Throughout that time, the event has raised over £410,000 to support Care’s work. For further information or to get involved, visit www.carechallenge.org.uk/ primasolutions or call the Care Challenge team on 020 7091 6111.

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BRITISH RETAILERS MISSING OUT ON £1BN ADVERTISING REVENUES British retailers that trade online are failing to maximise the potential revenue of their websites, according to new research. The findings – published by strategy consultant OC&C – indicate that just two of the country’s top 10 retailers sell media space to third parties on their websites. In the US, meanwhile, eight of the country’s leading online retailers use display ads and featured products to boost the revenue of their online operation. “Although the UK is one of the most advanced online retail markets in the world, British retailers are behind the curve when it comes to monetising shoppers as well as browsers on their website,” says Anita Balchandani, partner at OC&C. “This may be because e-retailers are concerned that advertising on their websites could potentially deflect consumers away from their site, or they may worry about the effects on consumer perceptions of their brand.”

— LIBERTY HOUSE BECOMES OCCASIONWEAR HUB A raft of occasionwear labels and agents will be showing their collections in one location during August, at Liberty House on London’s Great Marlborough Street. Organised by Jilly Barker from the International Fashion Federation, the venue will house brands and agencies, including Cocomo, representing Ariana, Bandolera, Lolitas, Sulu and Mila Brant; Joanna Edwards Agency showing Butterfly Jewellery, Carla Ruiz, Mashiah Arrive and Xenia; Marc Aurel UK; OAU Agency with Hongo, Gill Harvey, Mariella Rosati and Tricot Chic; Peter Robbins & Associates with Carmen Melero and Teresa Ripoll; Sally Dawes Agency selling Catherine Andre, Bleu Blanc Rouge and Eva & Claudi; Snoxells Millinery; and Veromia representing Dress Code, Dressed Up and Irresistible.

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NEWS —

GOVERNMENT REJECTS BUSINESS RATES REFORM

RAILWAY NEXT STOP FOR RETAIL EVOLUTION

The government has rejected calls from retailers and lobby groups to reform the business rates system.

Time-starved consumers will soon have the option to factor in clothes shopping to their daily commute, under new plans to roll out Click & Collect points across the country’s rail network.

Campaigners for reform – who described the current system as “not fit for purpose” – had urged the government to replace the rates with a sales tax, which would reflect revenue rather than properties in a report submitted to the government earlier this month.

However, the response from the Coalition, issued today, claimed that the “UK already has a sales tax in the form of VAT.” It went on to say that a sales tax would be “more administratively complex and have higher costs than the current system.”

Business rates will be worth an estimated £27bn to the Treasury this year; a cost to the private sector that critics claim is hampering businesses’ contribution to economic recovery.

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In stark contrast to other Click & Collect points – usually stationed within garages and convenience stores – the new Doddle stations will allow shoppers to try on their purchases on site, and return them immediately at the same point if they are unsuitable.

The scheme has been piloted with the country’s first Doddle point at Milton Keynes station, and will be rolled out to London Waterloo, Bromley South, Brighton, Chelmsford and London Cannon Street stations before the end of August.

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VIZ-A-VIZ GROWS PARTNERSHOP CONCEPT UK womenswear brand Viz-a-Viz is rolling out its PartnerShop concept from s/s 15, following a trial of the model earlier this year.

The concept is built on a close partnership between the brand and its stockists, “aligning interests and working together to maximise the potential,” as CEO Rinku Loomba says.

Designed to allow retailers to achieve greater profits without cash outlay, retailers only pay for the stock they sell, with unsold stock returned to the brand. Nationwide price matching on the Viz-a-Viz brand across all its stockists and e-tailers is also part of the offer, with the retailer’s margin also fixed, meaning that even if stock is sold at discount, the label will take the hit, not the retailer.

Support such as stock swaps, visual merchandising visits, local media marketing, web-ready images and copy, as well as fully branded POS and shop-fit material round-off the PartnerShop model.

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BESTSELLER ACQUIRES M&M DIRECT Danish fashion house Bestseller has acquired M&M Direct for an undisclosed sum. The company – whose fashion labels include Vero Moda, Only and Selected – bought the retailer in a deal that will be completed within eight weeks. “I believe that M&M Direct will continue to develop and become a leading company within its business and its markets,” says Bestseller founder Anders Holch Povlsen.

“Moreover, I trust that a closer collaboration will become beneficial for both our companies in the long-term. We have worked with M&M Direct for several years, and have come to know the people within the company as passionate and hardworking people who have achieved many positive results lately, and I look forward to working with them in the future.” M&M Direct is an online and mail-order retailer, specialising in end-of-line clearance fashion and sporting goods, with over 1.3 million active customers.

— BIRKENSTOCK RELOCATES LONDON FLAGSHIP STORE German footwear brand Birkenstock has opened a new flagship store on 24 Neal Street in London, introducing a more modern and brighter look that is said to reflect the label’s future aesthetic. The 600 sq ft shop features white walls covered with minimalist oak shelves and is designed to be contemporary and balanced by simple, handmade wood furniture, adding warmth and softness, but also acting as a reflection of the shoemaker’s craft. The rear of the store will be fitted with a feature wall and iPads, which will allow customers to browse and buy directly from the Birkenstock web shop.

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PEOPLE —

BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear —

BIRTHDAY BASH AT CLARENCE HOUSE

BOXPARK’S AWARD-WINNING APP Shoreditch pop-up mall Boxpark has won the UK App Design Award for Best Retail & Shopping App. Attracting over 160 entrants in its first year, the Awards were announced by design100 CEO and founder Mark Bergin as part of London Tech Week.

The Boxpark app for independent retailers allows consumers to buy from the pop-up stores via online or mobile, and RETAIL SUMMIT includes a feature called — Scan to Shop, which Cameron House Hotel in Loch allows customers to Lomond hosted the Retail Trust’s share their favourite imaugural Retail Enterprise Summit last month. The event, products. The Boxpark designed to inspire ideas for app can be retail, welcomed over 30 senior downloaded retail executives and five from iTunes. emerging entrepreneurs.

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A student from De Montfort University has bagged an all expenses paid placement with clothing giant Gap at its headquarters in New York. Catriona Pringle, 21, beat more than 100 students to the internship, and is now working in the company’s men’s sweater section during the eight-week stay.

Prince Charles opened the doors to Clarence House last month to celebrate the fifth anniversary of The Campaign For Wool. To demonstrate one of the key ecological messages around wool, a wool sweater and a synthetic lookalike were buried side-by-side in one of the Clarence House flowerbeds. The sweaters will be dug up four months later, during Wool Week in October, to demonstrate that the wool sweater will be well on its way to decomposing compared to the acrylic alternative – which will appear almost unchanged by four months in the ground.

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SUCCESS FOR MEET THE MANUFACTURER

USC opens with Gandy’s initiative Multi-branded retailer USC has opened its flagship London store in conjunction with flip-flop brand Gandy’s, having coincided with International Flip Flop Day. The label supplied 150 pairs of flip-flops, which could be claimed as prizes, in return for clues placed strategically around London attached to luggage tags directing shoppers back to the store.

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The first Meet the Manufacturer sourcing show and conference took place last month at London’s Old Truman Brewery, attracting almost 3,000 visitors. Attendees descended on the event, organised by Make it British, the campaign for UK manufacturing, to meet some of the UK’s top manufacturers, factories and craftspeople, and support the return of British-made fashion and textiles.

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IM AGE: BRYAN HUYNH

1 3 - 1 5

J U L Y

R e g i s t e r

2 0 1 4

n o w

scoop-international.com

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MODA PROMOTION —

THE HEART OF THE UK’S WOMENSWEAR AND ACCESSORIES SCENE AS MODA GETS SET TO RETURN TO THE NEC BIRMINGHAM ON 10-12 AUGUST, WWB RUNS THROUGH THE PRODUCTS, COLLECTIONS AND FEATURES NOT TO BE MISSED THIS SEASON. — Boomerang

M

oda Woman continues to grow and diversify this season as it welcomes a host of new and exciting labels.

It is the season for occasionwear, and Moda Noir is shaping up to be a key destination yet again for anyone looking to find the best new lines this summer, with Irresistible, Sonia Peña, Anoola and Carmen Melero among the international line-up this August.

Introducing its collection of layered bohemian and folk-inspired ensembles for the first time at Moda this season, newcomer Aurea Vita will join fellow debutant Natali Silhouette in Moda White, the area dedicated to contemporary and trend-led designs. These new brands will sit alongside the likes of Léo Guy, Latte, Paolo, Sahara and Boomerang’s latest collections.

Beyond Moda White, new labels Kiraku, Sublime Clothing and Lime Bay Clothing are among the knitwear specialists presenting their lightweight summer designs alongside fellow knitwear names Alice Collins and Tulchan. Meanwhile, firm favourites such as Pomodoro return with new-season styles suitable for every occasion from beach to city.

The surge in new labels is also reflected in neighbouring Moda Accessories and Moda Lingerie & Swimwear, as both

sectors get set to welcome a host of emerging names as well as returning names to the roster.

Jewellery specialist Natalie Inger is set to debut at her first ever trade show in Adorned at Moda this season. The area within Moda Accessories welcomes boutique brands offering a variety of product, and the brand will join other jewellery brands including Biziniti and Eliza Gracious.

Absolute Jewellery Accessories further enhances this season’s jewellery offer with its bold costume pieces, while NV Bags & Accessories joins the profusion of bag brands set to make an impact. Newcomers to the show will join industry heavyweights such as Zandra Rhodes, Casa di Stella and the newly rebranded FJ Collections (formerly Funk n Joolz).

In swimwear, the leading names joining this season include Michael Kors Swimwear presented by F1 Generations agency, which also brings fellow swim labels Coco Reef and Carmen Marc Valvo as part of its new offer this season. The range translates Kors’ underpinning design ethos into beachwear, showcasing undoubtable style and finesse across a colourful range of swimsuits, bikinis and tankinis. F1 Generations’ brands will accompany labels such as Maryan Mehlhorn, Lepel and Pain de Sucre in presenting the widest selection of swimwear collections in the UK this summer.

In lingerie, the offer remains steadfast,

Alpe

with Panache, Lise Charmel and Simone Pérèle among some of the labels heading up the billing, while Moda Boutique also benefits from fresh faces in the guise of Pure Chemistry and Elissa & Stef Underwear.

In women’s footwear, the product line is vast, with labels such as Ipanema, Reef and Rocket Dog leading the casual selection in Moda Footwear while, at the other end of the scale, Högl, Menbur and fresh face Alpe are among the leaders in heels. Also joining the footwear offer this season is newcomer Elia B, which will sport its latest range of flats from high-gloss slipper styles and suede moccasins to animal print ballet pumps.

Discover the ever-growing list of exhibitors at moda-uk.co.uk and start planning who you want to see.

23 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

MODA PROMOTION —

E-ZONE LIVE LINE-UP GROWS

Pomodoro

ESSENTIAL BUSINESS INSIGHTS

Irresistible

Ever wondered how to write the perfect product description for your online offer?

Maximise your profit through stock control strategies? Or how to get creative and generate new ideas in less than 3o minutes?

Look no further, as Moda’s comprehensive seminar programme returns with expert business advice tailored to independent retails. Leaders in their field such as fashion writer and broadcaster Jon Tromans, Kate Hills of Make It British, the Fashion Association of Britain and Tony Scott of Retail Spa are among this season’s speakers, so be sure to set time aside to listen in and glean information and practical advice that could help you to build on your business.

With the likes of Esoerus, Top To Toe, 360 Resourcing and Retail Technology among the growing line-up for the launch of E-Zone Live this Moda, the area is shaping up to be a must visit for anyone looking to enhance their offer with the latest news and tools for e-commerce and retail technology.

E-Zone Live is a unique opportunity to speak to the teams behind the technology directly and discover what would work best for you and your retail offer. Whether you are a bricks-and-mortar store or looking to develop your online transactional website, don’t miss critical seminars set to update you on the latest technologies and services to enhance your in-store and online offer.

FASHION N INSPIRATIOs daily

lk trend Enjoy catwa shows for the d with dedicate oks in women's lo w e n hottest ing & fashion, evend lingerie n a r occasionwea r live at the & swimwea twalk Hall 17 ca theatre.

Panache

JOIN THE COMMUNITY Moda’s exclusive planning tool for your season is now live. Once you have registered to attend the event, you will receive your unique log-in details. From here you can explore and make contacts with all the brands you want to see, visitors you want to meet, schedule the seminars you’d like to listen in on and discover the discounts, competitions and offers available exclusively to you as a Moda visitor this season. Log-in at moda-uk.co.uk/community.

EAT, DRINK AND SOCIALISE The Moda team welcomes all visitors and exhibitors to join them for a drink on the Sunday night of the event to toast a successful first day of business. A show tradition, the drinks, which will take place outside the NEC following the show’s close at 6pm, are a great chance to socialise and catch-up with your peers.

Monday night offers another opportunity to mix and network, with a barbecue party at the Beeches Bar & Grill, which is a five-minute drive from the NEC complex. This more intimate affair is a ticketed event and will offer food, drink and live DJ sets in a relaxed environment. If you would like to book tickets to the Beeches party email Nicole.yates@moda-uk.co.uk or call +44 (0)1484 846069.

NV Bags & Accessories

Register now for your free ticket at moda-uk.co.uk

26 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

OPINION —

TALKING POINT Key industry players give their views on the issues that affect womenswear.

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EVEN HERITAGE BRANDS NEED TO ADDRESS TECHNOLOGY

INDEPENDENTS ALSO NEED MEDIA ATTENTION

One of the most exciting things about business today is dealing with continually advancing technology. However, for heritage fashion companies, it can prove a real challenge.

I never dreamed I would take issue with our nation’s fashion experts, but I fear I have no choice. Listen up all of you out there who are our Top 100 Most Influential People in The Fashion Industry – we have a big problem and need your help.

In some ways it was easier in the past. Dents used to export gloves as far afield as Australia by sailing ship. When steam power, and eventually air cargo came in, it was an easy decision to move forward. The dramatic advance of technology in recent years provides very different challenges. Here, one has to balance the great benefits of computerised technology in design, for instance, with specialised skills such as hand-cutting and hand-sewing that can’t be replicated by machine. This means increased investment as specialised programmes have to be developed that partner well with essential traditional manufacturing processes. English heritage brands have a huge reputation, not only across the UK, but also globally. But part of that popularity is the image of Old England, the love and care that goes into every product, the superb quality and workmanship. Equating that activity with a thoroughly modern business is another challenge.

We have recently moved into a state-of-the-art £4m head office in Warminster that is packed with a wealth of technical innovation (for instance, there are no light switches in the building).

This high technology is tremendously helpful in ensuring fast and accurate responses and delivery to customers. But, for heritage brands, putting product on screen does not do the same job as showing the product to a buyer, or a member of the public holding the actual product in a shop. How can you demonstrate the unique softness, subtle shading, outstanding fit and sheer beauty of a special product on a computer screen? The answer is you can’t. So while today we do have an online shop, nevertheless we still do a high proportion of our sales through personal contact with buyers and retailers. Our orders and communications though will generally be online; it really is a mix of new and old.

I see some companies embracing every latest change in technology without thinking it through properly. I prefer to ignore what others are doing and think instead about how it will work for us. Will it bring real benefit to our specific product or our customers?

For all our brands – Dents, Gaby jewellery and Corgi socks – we take pride in being thoroughly modern operations with the very latest equipment and technology. But, in every case, we ensure that while addressing the new, we don’t lose the key traditional values that have contributed to our success for centuries.

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So, here is the issue – independent retailers in the UK are not getting the media attention they deserve. In fact, they are getting no media attention at all. There seems to be an unabashed intransigence when it comes to recognising their existence, let alone singing their praises. The British public in general is still not fully aware of the independent boutiques and the role they play.

These retailers provide excellent customer service and wonderful individuality. They are artistic, creative, stylish and, more often than not, devote their heart and soul to their businesses. I believe there is a moral responsibility to embrace and give recognition to the fantastic job they do.

Over the last few years, the influence of fashion on TV has grown exponentially. Your average lady tunes in and loves the idea of getting free fashion advice on how to change the middle-aged uniform. TV has the power to shape our opinions. Surely there are many women who fall somewhere between buying premium designer brands and the under £60 high-street version.

Not that the high street or department stores don’t do a good job (they do, and brilliantly so), but it’s time to ring the changes here in the UK. It’s high time our well-known fashion TV presenters started featuring independent womenswear brands. Give the consumer more choice, explain the individuality the boutiques and privately owned stores offer. Come on ITV, BBC, MPs or whoever it takes, bring on some key independent retailers who are more than capable of articulating themselves to encourage viewers to shop locally.

I’m not saying that TV is the only medium, but what is fascinating is that global TV is now a central navigation point in a brand experience where people can engage and create their own version of the brand story.

In Italy, where I work several weeks each season, I often see independent brands featured on national as well as regional TV. Fashion experts devote entire programmes to independent womenswear brands where they highlight just how unique these collections can be. They also provide viewers with full details of regional stockists. People of the industry, please can you get behind this and let’s persuade the decision-makers.

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Deborah Moore, chief executive, Dents

Adele Black, creative director, Latte Clothing

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DÜSSELDORF HALLE 30 ·1.07 Partners in Fashion Ltd. · Chris and Monika Bartscht 16 a Newman Street · GB - London W1T 1PB Phone: +44-207-636 4207 · Fax: +44-207-436 2243 E-Mail: michele@partnersinfashion.co.uk

Our Vision Target the contemporary woman aged 30 - 50 with a clear fashion statement, a good fit and critically excellent value for money (average price ÂŁ26).

Our Retailers LOLA, Cirencester: 'I have stocked Tramontana from its first season in the UK in A/W 13. I have a mixed clientelle and it really does offer a broad and ageless look from quite classic pieces to very funky pieces and also romantic and very pretty pieces. The quality to price is exceptional.

It really is a very strong selling product. I find them a nice company to deal with aswell'.

Doloris Tanir, owner.

Adjacencies: Yaya, Viligallo, Isabel de Pedro.

NICHOLSONS, Holt: 'S/S 14 was our first season with Tramontana and we're delighted with it's performance. The look can only be described as different with an interesting use of fabrics. It's quirky and stylish at the same time and is bought by all ages. The value for money is very good and the 3.0 margin a bonus. It is already an important brand for us and we're looking forward to seeing S/S 15 which apparently is going to be exceptional'.

Jane Davidson, buyer.

Adjacencies: Masai, Sandwich, Great Plains KINGS ROAD FASHIONS, Woburn Sands: 'We're delighted with Tramontana's performance.

S/S 14 was our 2nd season and it already has built up a following. A cross section of ages buy it, which is a bonus really. It definitely has its own little niche and is a quality product. We find the price to quality exceptional and the margin of 3.0 is key. Very, very happy with Tramontana. It's our little secret'!

Jo Messenger, director.

Adjacencies: Runhold, Sandwich, Masai

Our Collections Tramontana provides the perfect fashion repertoire whether it is for the office, casual, dinner or a party. Our collections are feminine, sexy, with trend setting 'must haves'.

We have fascinating colour combinations, creative prints, innovative detail and we always use high quality materials.

Oh yes and a 3.0 margin!

Selling Dates: S/S 15 Monday 21st July - Fri 5th Sept 2014

Contact: Cicely Brown and Chris Foster-Orr Tel: 020 7636 7111 FOS Fashion Marketing Ltd, 4th Floor, Morley House, 320 Regent Street, London W1B 3BF

32 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

INTERVIEW —

Q&A

Andreas Melbostad Creative director, Diesel Black Gold — Andreas Melbostad’s first womenswear collection for Diesel Black Gold came in a/w 13, matching his signature urban style with a rock-chic aesthetic. Menswear followed for a/w 14, and this summer has seen the launch of Diesel Black Gold’s first global concept store on London’s Conduit Street – housing both the women’s and men’s collection.

Tom Bottomley gets the lowdown.

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33 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

Tom Bottomley: What’s special about the new store?

Andreas Melbostad: It’s the first store to be created for the new bigger vision for the brand. It also represents my first venture into men’s, in addition to the Diesel Black Gold women’s line. The new shop is around 2,800 sq ft over two floors. It’s quite a statement.

TB: How long has Diesel Black Gold been around?

AM: It launched in 2008, though I only joined the company just over two years ago. It has always been women’s and men’s but, prior to me, there was a design team working on both collections. I think we have given it a more distinctive handwriting. It’s still very much a brand in its infancy. Diesel is obviously a giant, and we are like the little start-up project within it – even though we have been around for a few years. How we are proceeding right now is very clear, so we now think we have set the ground work to start to build Diesel Black Gold.

TB: Was the initial idea to launch it as the most premium of Diesel’s offers?

AM: I think it’s evolved through different stages before becoming more clearly defined.

Our goal is to be what we call advanced, contemporary design. The core offer in the collections is still denim and leather – which is the strength of Diesel as a brand. But Diesel Black Gold very much stands on its own as a brand. The job for me is to expand on this, and bring all the other product classifications in.

For women that will incorporate soft dressing and accessories, and for men some tailoring.

It’s a big job. For now it’s not necessarily viewed as a premium project, but it’s definitely a higher tier within the Diesel offer.

TB: Why has London’s Conduit Street been chosen for the flagship shop?

AM: It’s a great central location and there’s a lot of stores surrounding us that complement what we do, and we like to sit next to. On the street there are labels such as Martin Margiela and Kenzo, so it feels correct for us.

INTERVIEW —

“Our goal is to be what we call advanced, contemporary design.

The core offer in the collections is still denim and leather – which is the strength of diesel as a brand”

It’s not a massive store, more of a boutique, and those are the kind of buildings you get in that area. It’s just a good fit for us. It’s a destination shopping area and there’s plenty of traffic and people walking through.

TB: Is it part of a global retail roll-out for Diesel Black Gold?

AM: Not quite, but we are talking about other locations as well. London came about as top of the list, but also the Conduit Street location was found very quickly. We’ve also talked about Milan and Paris, and possibly some others. It’s not defined yet, but we’re looking at it. London was important because it’s the first study of what a retail space should look like for Diesel Black Gold. It also encompasses architecture and creates the right environment to fit with the DNA of the brand and all that we are now doing from a design perspective. It’s like a first step for us. A very important step. It gives us the opportunity to create the window for the brand.

TB: So you don’t have any Diesel Black Gold shops anywhere else?

AM: We have one in New York, on Green Street. But that was never opened with the intention of it being a permanent store. It just kind of lingered! It’s still there, and it’s been in existence for a few years, but the London shop is all about the direction we’re taking the brand. At some point I think we will revisit what the New York store looks like because of the way the brand has evolved. We need to bring it in line with what we’ve created with the London store – which is effectively a great showcase for the product, and also something that is unique to Diesel Black Gold, as opposed to Diesel. However, Diesel Black Gold does sit inside several key and important Diesel stores as well.

TB: What can we expect to see from the new s/s 15 women’s collection?

AM: For women we are trying to evolve beyond the denim and leather, though those elements are still very important in the women’s collection. It’s about expanding into the soft dressing area. We are finding a new playful way to do that – to put another standard look for us across. We will be

showing the women’s at the mail sorting room at the main sorting office in New York on 9 September – during New York Fashion Week. We’ve been showing the women’s in New York for around four years. For me, it works perfectly because I live in New York!

TB: How long have you been based there?

AM: I’ve been in New York for almost 14 years. I am Norwegian, but I also lived in London when I was a student at the Royal College of Art. I did a masters in womenswear design for two years, and I began my career with Nicole Farhi in London before moving to Paris to work with Alber Elbaz – when he first arrived in Paris, first for Guy Laroche and then for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.

TB: Who else have you worked for in the past?

AM: I’ve also worked for Nina Ricci, and then I met Calvin Klein and moved to New York, and I’ve been there ever since. I designed for Calvin Klein, then Donna Karen, and following that I was the creative director at Phi, a start-up high-end designer womenswear brand that was owned by the Dell family – as in Dell computers. I worked there for seven years, and I think that was the project that got Diesel owner Renzo Rosso’s attention. It’s what he looked at when he was searching for the way to evolve Diesel Black Gold, and I subsequently came on board. I was contacted a little over two years ago and everything happened very quickly. It works well because my creative research and design work is done in New York, in my apartment, then I go to Italy for the product development.

TB: What’s happening in terms of building the UK wholesale business?

AM: We’re only just starting with it. It’s about building very carefully, and we want to find the right partners. The women’s line launches in Selfridges this autumn, and we have some select international independents.

We feel we are ready to move forward. We’re hitting a comfort zone in terms of creating the right product that fits with Diesel Black Gold. The right quality and positioning is starting to happen as well. We’re getting quite confident and we’re ready to expand, for sure.

TB: In terms of product category expansion, is footwear something you’re looking at growing, too?

AM: Indeed, and we’re finding that people are really picking up the shoes in the London shop. The denim and the shoes are performing the best at the moment. So we will be expanding the footwear offer across women’s and men’s, and putting more emphasis on it. In terms of styling, everything is about having an irreverent rock attitude, but it is very much about the product and the quality.

Preview SS15 Pure, 3rd - 5th August – stand number Q158 Moda, 10th – 12th August – stand number U10 E sales@jacobsongroup.co.uk T 01706 212512

36 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

FASHION —

STYLE FILE The hottest brands not to miss this month —

▲ DAISY CHAIN Daisy Jewellery’s latest collection Sahara references travel, luxury and treasure. Necklaces, bracelets, rings and earrings are made from precious metals and embellished with gemstones. Faceted beads of citrine are threaded between gold nuggets, while cut smoky quartz is embedded in glowing rose gold, making for an eye-catching juxtaposition.

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▲

HOOKED ON COATS Brit designer Katherine Hooker is known for her luxe minimal style when it comes to outerwear, with crisp tailoring and razor-sharp cuts key. For a/w 14, the brand has created another timeless collection of coats and jackets, including double-breasted styles with broad lapels, variations on biker jackets and a capsule Essentials range, using only the finest tweeds and wools.

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STYLE FLASH

— Bernice Angelique has launched its latest collection of candy coloured handbags, with all pieces made from the finest ostrich skins and soft Italian suede linings.

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Laurence Dolige’s design principle is to reinvent the classics and modernise the basics, taking inspiration from menswear, the world of glamour and Parisian femininity, all with perfect cuts and enticing colour choices.

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▲ HAPPY UNDIES Quirky legwear brand Happy Socks has launched its first women’s and men’s underwear collection for a/w 14, following in the same bold and funky design footsteps as the main line. Expect to find vibrant brights and stand-out patterns that have become the signature of the brand.

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STYLE FLASH Prey of London’s s/s 15 — collection takes on the Rock ’n’ roll socialite Meg Mathews has teamed up theme of Geo Safari, with accessories label Wilby to and is inspired by design a new line of vegan, leather-free handbags, with a creepy crawlies and percentage of sales going the wild. Structured to PETA. patterns and intricate — appliqué techniques are key in the range, which features sheer kaftans, loose-fit tops and slinky styled draped dresses.

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Carry on Handbag label Larah England combines luxury with femininity and functionality, with styles that are timeless. Made from soft-washed tumbled leathers, the collection captures the essence of casual chic and features eye-catching detailing, from hand-plaited handles to ribbon bow plaques.

Each bag boasts a signature teapot printed lining, inspired by the English tradition of afternoon tea.

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paris . london . tokyo . nature rubber boots, hand-made in france. visit our workshops at www.aigle.com available from selected stockists uk and ireland – tel.: 01608 813 860 – uksales@aigle.com

S P R I N G

S U M M E R

2 0 1 5

Showing at: Pure Olympia: 3-5 Aug | Stand M65 Gilmoora House: 29 July - 1 Aug | 6-22 Aug 57-61 Mortimer Street, London, W1

For appointments, Pls call Howard Ross 07795-007528

|

howard@retailbrandconnection.co.uk

40 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

FASHION —

FASHION RADAR The hottest brands to look out for right now —

SARA C

RAGGED ROBIN

Designed and made in Britain, the print label uses sustainable fabrics and low impact technology.

The short-order brand is continuing its expansion drive with quirky designs that are individual and yet on-trend.

Established: 2013

Established: 2012

Signature style: Simple silhouettes and nature-inspired prints.

Signature style: Easy-to-wear jersey with original hand-printed designs made from quality fabrics.

Committed to sourcing sustainable fabrics, founder and designer Sara Cohen launched the ethical print brand, which is designed and manufactured in the UK, last year, taking inspiration from the wild beauty of England during trips around the country. Cohen’s inspiration is reflected in the eco-couture fashion label’s strong focus on individuality, with each print telling a different story.

Balancing style and sustainability, the ethos of Sara C revolves around reducing environmental impact. The brand keeps manufacturing in the UK and prints digitally to reduce water volume. Eco-friendly dyes are also used to keep the impact on the environment to a low. Wholesale prices range between £62 and £98.

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Conceived by Clare Serjeant, owner of award-winning independent boutique Fox + Feather in Bristol, Ragged Robin started as a collection of T-shirts sold in-store. After experiencing a strong response to the range, the brand launched into wholesale and has since found success in the UK and Europe, with further expansion anticipated within the next 12 months. Offering quirky, individual designs based on current demand and trends, in addition to its still popular classic T-shirts with flattering cuts, Ragged Robin has been a hit with fashionistas ever since its launch, and continues to deliver quirky designs season after season. The label’s broad appeal is also reflected in its diverse range of stockists, which range from concept stores to gift shops. Offering four lines per year, the bestselling shape is the brand’s classic roll-sleeve, loose-fit T-shirt. Wholesale prices range between £10 and £16.

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View the S/S 2015 collections in Manchester and Dublin showrooms by appointment.

Also at PURE - Elisa Cavaletti Stand J89. Leo Guy Stand J79 MODA - Elisa Cavaletti Stand I50. Leo Guy Stand J50

For appointments please contact: Joy Redfern - UK T: 07876 333397 E: joyredfern@me.com Bellina - Ireland T: 00353 1429 5440 E: sales@bellinacreations.ie

44 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

PROFILE —

SUPERSIZING ACCENT Accent in Leeds is 30 years old this year, and celebrations are being planned, with a big event scheduled for September. It’s also fitting that the huge shop refurbishment, including the new womenswear department, is now reaching completion, writes Tom Bottomley.

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Louise, Martin and Jack Schneider

T

his year sees Leeds mainstay independent Accent hit its 30th anniversary, with a refurbished shop that has been expanded in the city’s Queens Arcade beyond owner Martin Schneider’s belief. The new 2,000 sq ft womenswear department, with its all-important denim wall – some say the best in the country – launched last autumn to rousing acclaim and queues outside the shop on the opening night.

Previously housed in a unit opposite the men’s shop in the Arcade, womenswear and everything else has been brought under one roof, with the discovery of vast hidden floors and rooms in the old Victorian building that now sees Accent with, what Schneider estimates at, some 8,000 sq ft over three floors (not all for trading, of course). There’s also footwear, childrenswear, stock rooms, office space and a dedicated room for the website business that Martin’s wife, Louise, runs.

This September will see the mother of all parties to celebrate the 30th, and the completion of the whole building’s revamp. There will be raffles for product from some of the best brands Accent sells,

specially created 30th-anniversary product for sale, a fashion show, live music and no doubt plenty of drinks to make the whole thing go with a swing.

But how come it took Schneider so long to realise all the additional space he was potentially able to expand into in the building he’s been in for nearly 20 years? “We didn’t discover it until November 2012,” he says. “The rent and rates went up again in the Arcade and I said to my wife that we’d struggle with the women’s shop at those new costs, and she said, “Well let’s bring it into the men’s shop, we can put the women’s in the big stock room.” I said we couldn’t do that, because we need the stock to be on hand – we’re always going up and downstairs for sizes, especially on jeans.

“But I knew there was another room above our stockroom,” he continues. “I went up there 20 years ago, when we opened this shop. There used to be a steel ladder stapled to the wall. My nephew recently came to the shop and said, ‘Wow, I used to climb up into this place when you were doing the original fit-out.’ And I remember he did – he was only a little kid at the time and I remember shouting at

45 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

PROFILE —

him to get down because it was dangerous.”

Once Schneider remembered the additional room above, which he didn’t think there was still access to, he got the caretaker to take him up. When he got up there, he realised just how big it was.

Then he saw a hole in the wall that the caretaker said was to do with a recent fire evaluation of the building. Schneider crawled through, and there were another two rooms that had been sealed up for some 86 years. There was also an old lift shaft that Schneider suspected must be the one that went down to his stockroom. He got the plans from the landlord, and indeed it was. So he started to think about how to link it all together. “It was just massive – one room after another,” he says. “In one of the rooms there were shredded net curtains, and really old-fashioned wallpaper still on the walls. It looked like somebody had once lived there.” Thankfully, he doesn’t think it’s haunted, as that’s now his office.

In terms of a fashion business, Schneider says there’s no way he envisaged Accent would come this far when he started out. “When we started 30 years ago, in 1984, it was just a bit of fun, hand-to-mouth stuff. Money to go out with on a Saturday night. And it was like that for the first five years. We did Replay from day one, as well as Diesel, Liberto, Classic Nouveaux and Verte Vallee. We didn’t go into womenswear until 1992, when we had a shop in the Victoria Quarter, which we relocated to the old and original menswear shop in the Queens Arcade – opposite our current much bigger shop – in 1996.”

It’s an exciting time for the women’s department this autumn, which will see a new specialist shoe concession with 40-strong chain Daniel Footwear this autumn. Owner Daniel Buck is an old friend of Schneider. “He does all the big brands, including the likes of Prada and Gucci, though it’s unconfirmed which he can bring in here right now. But he also does his own brand of shoes, which are excellent and well-priced. I think it’s going to work really well for us.”

Schneider buys the menswear with his son Jack, who’s now also in the business after deciding university wasn’t for him, though

he has always employed a separate womenswear buyer – Joanne Wood – who has been doing the job for the past six years. Accent is best known for its denim offer, with brands such as Replay, Armani Jeans, Nudie, True Religion, Citizens of Humanity, 7 For All Mankind, Paige Premium Denim and Maison Scotch among the roll-call that keeps the customers coming back for more.

“Denim for women’s, like on the men’s, is a massive part of the business,” says Wood. “We carry over 110 styles of denim in every shape, fit and trend. We also do an exceptionally large amount of outerwear, for autumn/winter particularly, with all the premium brands such as Belstaff, Matchless, Canada Goose, and we’ve got Parajumpers coming in for this autumn, too.

“On ladieswear, we work very closely with a lot of local designers, mainly on occasionwear,” she continues, “There’s a brand from Huddersfield called Kevan Jon, which is now an established local designer. We also work with a husband-and-wife duo from Huddersfield with a brand called Jolaby. There are a lot of textile companies in the area, and working with local designers gives us a point of difference from the likes of Harvey Nichols and Flannels.

There’s a brand called Me & Thee, which is very Yorkshire sounding!”

Wood says the party in celebration of the new womenswear area last autumn was a major success. “It was absolutely packed – people were literally shoe-horned in,” she says. Raffle prizes included a Belstaff Roadmaster A6 jacket, Hugo Boss perfume and bag set, complete Tommy Hilfiger outfit and Religion dress. This September customers can expect more of the same, only this time on an even grander scale. It seems Accent likes being 30, and Schneider and his family and staff can tip their hats to an old Victorian arcade that has given them the greatest gift of all – a lot more space to make them bigger, better and stronger. Here’s to another 30 years.

S/S 2015 Yumi International Ltd 48 Mortimer Street London W1W 7RN Email: sales@yumi.uk.com

General Enquiries 01392 876390 l Customer Service 0800 294 3373 JosephRibkoff.com

Official sponsor onsor of

Group

Spring/Summer 2015

Size range: 8-30 GODSKE KIRSTEN KROG DESIGN JORLI HABELLA ROBELL FRANDSEN OUTERWEAR TIA I’CONA Q NEEL QUÉ REFA THAT’S ME BY JAGRO — PRE COLLECTIONS: for delivery Dec/Jan 2015 Showing: London Showroom 01 July - 01 August 2014 Dublin Showroom 01 July to 01 August 2014 MAIN COLLECTIONS: for delivery February - April 2015 Gallery Dusseldorf from 24 July - 29 July 2014 Fashion House 1, 2nd Floor, Room 247 - 251 CIFF Copenhagen from 3 August - 6 August 2014 Bella Centre stand B3 - 241 Pure Exhibition Olympia from 3 August - 5 August 2014 Stand J118 London Showroom from 1 August - 15 September 2014 Showroom also open Sunday 3rd August 2014 - Weekend of Pure Moda Woman, NEC Birmingham from 10 August - 12 August 2014 Hall 18 - stand no J27, J28 & I28 Dublin Showroom, Fashion City from 01 August - 15 September 2014 with a Special Event on Sunday 17 August - 19 August 2014.

— LONDON SHOWROOM Godske Group UK. Showroom: 65 Margaret Street, London W1W 8SP Tel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863 Email: pug@godske.com DUBLIN SHOWROOM Godske Group Ireland, Unit 5, Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24 Tel: 00353 1 4295042 Fax: 00353 1 4295043

50 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

BRAND GUIDE —

SPRING/ SUMMER 2015 THE SEASON STARTS HERE

51 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

BRAND GUIDE —

COLLECTION NEWS 

TREND WATCH 

TRUE COLOURS 

Page 54 The key labels and new launches of the season.

Page 58 WWB’s brand-by-brand guide, with the looks, colours and silhouettes dominating the season.

Page 74 Directional and young fashion favours the bold this season, with prints and colour pops galore.

KAPALUA

52 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

COLLECTION NEWS —

COLLECTION NEWS The product news and market launches not to miss for spring/summer 2015.

— BARBERINI FASHION EXPANDS PORTFOLIO London agency Barberini Fashion has taken on St Erasmus jewellery (pictured) and Sabina Savage scarves for s/s 15, adding to its existing contemporary womenswear and accessory line-up, which includes the likes of Frau Blau, Loulou Et Tu, Caia of Sweden and Stephanie Browne. St Erasmus jewellery is a British luxury line designed by Pieter Erasmus, offering handmade accessories using Swarovski crystals, precious stones and finest quality materials. Sabina Savage is a luxury British accessories range of scarves, featuring stunning imperial and Victorian era inspired print designs on silk, wool and cashmere.

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BELLENISA MAKES UK DEBUT Italian womenswear brand Bellenisa is making its first foray into the UK market and will be sold as part of the Peruzzi and Steilmann UK umbrella of brands. The label has been successfully trading in Ireland under the Peruzzi stable, where it is serving 80 accounts. Labelled as the “older sister” to Peruzzi, the brand is aimed at the 45-plus customer who values quality, fit and affordability. Signature looks of the range include knitwear such as mock twin sets, intrinsically detailed tops and dresses that flatter up to size 20. There are 75 pieces in each collection, offering two to three colour options per style, with wholesale prices ranging between £18 and £44. Lisa Williams, sales manager at Steilmann UK, will be handling all UK sales.

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SPORTALM APPOINTS PARKERS AGENCY Contemporary Austrian brand Sportalm has appointed fashion agency Parkers as its UK representative from s/s 15, re-entering the UK market after a three-year absence. Offering a co-ordinates collection at the medium to upper end of the market, the label is hoping to open around 25 accounts in the UK in the first season. Key styles include jackets with co-ordinating trousers and matching tops, with average wholesale prices for jackets pitched at ¤80-¤120, dresses ¤65-¤110 and knitwear between ¤45 and ¤80.

The brand sits alongside the likes of Marc Cain, Luisa Cerano, Basler, Max Mara and Airfield.

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53 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

COLLECTION NEWS —

CAROL C COLLECTIONS ADDS PARKHURST Fashion agency Carol C Collections has expanded its portfolio for s/s 15 with the addition of Canadian knitwear label Parkhurst. Designed and produced mainly in Canada, the collection offers commercial price points and innovative designs based around vibrant colours. The range is aimed at women aged 35-plus, and includes a wide selection of sweaters made with quality yarns, as well as jumpers and cardigans, alongside dresses and tunic tops. The brand will make its official UK launch at Moda Woman next month.

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CREA CONCEPT LAUNCHES STANDALONE JERSEY LINE French brand Crea Concept is launching Sandy Bay for s/s 15, a standalone capsule collection of jersey pieces. The range comes off the back of the success of jersey pieces within the main line, however Sandy Bay prices will be pitched 25 per cent lower than Crea Concept, making them more commercial and opening up the range to potential new buyers. Around 40 different styles are available in the collection, with a slightly more casual look than Crea Concept, with dresses, tops, trousers and some relaxed outerwear among the key styles. The brand will be initially offered to existing Crea Concept customers, with the label currently selling to 140 accounts across the UK and Ireland. However, the company hopes to add another 10-15 new stockists to its distribution network.

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NASSC GROUP BRINGS TWO NEW LABELS TO MARKET Turkish fashion group NassC is launching two new fashion labels for s/s 15 – day and occasionwear brand Izabella and plus-size range Gracie B. The collections are being introduced following the company’s decision to discontinue its NassC label from s/s 15, with both lines set to cover the gap but with a new-and-improved style and more modern handwriting. Both brands will be represented in the UK by Tate Fashions, which acts as the main agent and distributor, with sub agents across the country.

Produced in Turkey but designed in Ireland, the Izabella collection responds to retailers’ demand for a more youthful look in the 40-plus marketplace, covering daywear, special occasion and mother of the bride, with styles designed to be multi-functional and worn again. Wholesale prices are commercial, with an average price of £45 for dresses. Meanwhile, sister brand Gracie B will complement the Izabella collection (which offers sizes 8-20) with a size range of 14-26. The collection is a concise range of day and occasionwear pieces, with similar price points as the sister brand.

—

BRAX OPENS PERMANENT LONDON SHOWROOM German trouser specialist Brax has opened a new permanent Central London showroom. The 40 sq m premises in Morley House, Regent Street, will house both the womenswear and menswear range and will be open year-round, responding to customer demand as well as reiterating the brand’s commitment to the UK market.

Anne-Lydia Halewood will continue to handle UK womenswear sales, while Sarah Pinnock has been appointed as new menswear agent for the South of the UK, and will also be based at the showroom.

— PARTNERS IN FASHION TAKE ON RABE London agency Partners in Fashion has added German labels Rabe and sister brand Thomas Rabe to its stable of brands, which also include the likes of Kirsten, Michele, Schneiders, Frank Walder and Monari. The agency will be handling all sales for the labels in mainland UK from s/s 15.

— MIKAELLA LAUNCHES TO THE UK Spanish brand Mikaella is launching to the UK for s/s 15 through Associated Fashion Agencies. The label offers a co-ordinated collection of daywear classics and weekendwear, with outfits designed to work together. The signature style is elegant and modern with comfort in mind.

Key pieces include dresses, blouses, jackets and trousers in clean cuts.

— NEW AGENCY FOR SIGNATURE Fashion agency Marion Kitchen Associates has been appointed as new representative for Danish brand Signature, part of the BTX Group, from s/s 15. The agency already represents the group’s brands Brandtex and plus-size range Ciso, with Signature complementing the product portfolio. Marion Kitchen Associates will cover the North of England with Brandtex and Ciso, and the North of England and the Midlands with Signature.

—

10. - 12.8.2014 Moda NEC, Birmingham Hall 18 - H21 BRH International Fashions Ltd. Ground Floor 12-14 Mortimer Street London W1T 3JJ Great Britain Fon: +44 20 75 80 62 44 Brhinternational@gmail.com

WWW.ATELIER-GARDEUR.DE

. High Quality produced in Europe . Large stock programme . Comfortable fashion . Sizes 34 - 56 Double TWO are looking for a well-connected Agent to sell their range of ladies’ blouses in the Republic of Ireland.

Please apply in writing or email: Geoff Phipps, Brand Director, Double TWO Ltd., PO Box 1, Thornes Lane Wharf, Wakefield, West Yorkshire, WF1 5RQ. Email: geoff.phipps@wsg.co.uk

!&! "#& !)'& ''&' $!& ($%

58 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

TREND WATCH —

TREND:

BLUE LAGOON

Shades of blue in all guises dominate for s/s 15, from turquoise through aqua to navy and midnight blue, often combined or used on prints for a more subtle – but still impactful – take on the colour spectrum.

—

SANDWICH  At Sandwich, patterns are combined with accent colours and subtle tonal details to provide a relaxed and understated look that is nevertheless elegant and on-trend.

—

G DESIGN  Ankle-length skinny jeans and cool biker shapes are contrasted with casual and sporty jogging styles at G Design this season. Detailing plays a major role, with leather patches, top stitching, zippers and rivet details key.

—

PAUSE CAFÉ  Trendy smart looks, allying elegance and modernity, take centre stage at Pause Café for s/s 15.

Dresses, tunics and tops in eye-catching prints are among the highlight pieces in the range.

—

THOMAS RATH  At Thomas Rath classic elegance meets sporty, casual flair. Cigarette pants, jogging styles, denim and chinos dominate, while the colour scheme is made up of black and white alongside subtle pastels such as soft blue, peach and rose.

—

59 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

TREND WATCH —

JOULES 

RONEN CHEN  Ronen Chen offers relaxed and understated style with a sophisticated twist.

Ethnic and tie-dye prints take centre stage, while flowing silhouettes and a colour scheme of navy, white, coral, gold and peach rounds off the collection.

—

KUDIBAL  A mix of patterns, subtle colours and relaxed silhouettes runs through the Kudibal collection this season, oozing the brand’s typical Scandinavian chic.

Silks and satins are once again at the core of the range, bringing a luxurious feel to summer dressing.

—

Key shapes at Joules include embellished shift dresses, notch-neck blouses, printed and embroidered shell tops and blazers. Conversational prints sit alongside solids for an injection of colour, while lightweight fabrics and textures form the backdrop.

—

ADINI  Soft and fluid dressing is at the core of Adini’s range this season, with printed maxis, soft tunics and cotton shift dresses key.

Aqua, kiwi, sorbet pink and straw dominate the colour scheme.

—

LUISA CERANO  An understated colour scheme of blues, blacks, beiges, creams and pastel pink forms the basis for the Luisa Cerano collection this season, with loosely tailored silhouettes creating an elegant and yet understated feel.

—

ANA NONZA

BRANDTEX

BETTY BARCLAY

Ana Nonza is a quirky but easy-to-wear range of separates and dresses. The range features a selection of light and fluid fabrics from Indonesia, such as chiffon viscose, silk, rayon, cottons, lace and some linens, mixing plain colours with an abundance of prints.

—

The s/s 15 line is dominated by patterns; dots, flowers, stripes, animal prints and graphic patterns feature on everything from jackets and trousers to T-shirts and dresses. A wealth of colour, ranging from yellow, tangerine, red and pink to a sea of blue nuances, complements the range.

—

Key trends at Betty Barclay this season include sportive influences, technical qualities and structured fabrics, coming through in stripe details, jogging and cargo pants, and mesh and rip shirts. Feminine styles in soft, flowing qualities with pleatings and ruffles are key.

—

60 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

TREND WATCH —

TREND:

WHITE WASH

Always a staple of s/s collections, white takes centre stage this season as a crisp head-to-toe look. Surface interest, however, is of importance, with a combination of different textures and playful arrangements of contrasting fabrics key.

—

HAUBER  Hauber offers a sports-luxe collection with ageless appeal. Volume, fluid silhouettes and embellishment detailing are key characteristics of the range. Statement necklines take the place of scarves, while lounge pants are a key new shape, which sits well with the brand’s more fluid silhouettes.

—

RENE LEZARD  At Rene Lezard, white and eggshell bring light into the season. An important key piece in the collection is the two-in-one dress, while stretch jacquard trousers in subtle bottle green add an elegantly sporty note.

Artistic floral prints or little heart prints on light dresses and blouses round-off the range.

—

MYRINE 

MARC CAIN  Head-to-toe white is among the key looks at Marc Cain this season, making for a sporty and yet dressy feel. Other trends include bold prints, particularly on floaty skirts, while brighter colour pops also feature.

—

Belgian brand Myrine creates timeless designs in quality fabrics with a softened colour palette in wearable yet innovative shapes. Lace, cottons and linens are combined with subtle prints, while natural patterned creams and white are merged with blues and sage greens.

—

61 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

TREND WATCH —

MARC AUREL 

JAMES LAKELAND  James Lakeland has injected new ideas into its s/s 15 collection, with an emphasis on quirky, modern and wearable styles. The casual element has increased, and dresses and occasionwear have taken into account the demands of the clientele. The colour scheme ranges from black and white to hot pinks and electric blues.

—

Subtlety is a key theme at Marc Aurel this season, with white dominating, only intercepted by hues of metallic, nudes, beiges, greys creams and the occasional navy or black backdrop. Silhouettes are relaxed as always, giving the brand a casual-luxe feel.

—

MICHELE 

LEO GUY  The signature look at Leo Guy is a combination of fabrics with plentiful detailing, embroidery and embellishments. Pullovers, twin sets, T-shirts and blouses are among the key items for s/s 15, featuring subtle colours among stand-out prints.

—

At Michele, high-tech mixtures, often combined with cotton, fuse business and sportswear into a new hybrid look. Cotton and denims show more refined finishes, while digital prints appear 3D and multifaceted.

—

FRANDSEN

FRANK SAUL

GODSKE CLASSIC

Outerwear specialist Frandsen offers jackets and coats that reference and interpret key trends the season. Techno silks with intricate detailing form the basis for many styles this season, with key pieces including raincoats, trench coats and sporty wind and waterproof jackets.

—

An open-back cardigan is one of the predicted bestsellers at knitwear specialist Frank Saul this season. Soft printed knitted tops and printed leopard tops also feature heavily. Jewel shades take centre stage across the colour palette.

—

Godske Classic returns with separates for day and evening. Easy fit and flattering shapes are key characteristics, with tops, jackets and dresses among the signature styles. Lime, taupe and cerise lead the colour charts in the range.

—

62 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

TREND WATCH —

TREND:

MONOCHROME

Black-and-white combos are still going strong, seemingly bridging the seasons, and s/s 15 is no exception. Monochrome prints dominate, while clashing textures add a new dimension to the look.

—

ATELIER GARDEUR 

GELCO  Blacks, whites, greys and natural hues dominate at Gelco this season, accentuated by the occasional splash of pink or tangerine. The silhouettes are elegant and yet relaxed, with smart-casual jackets, slim-fit trousers and flattering dresses key.

—

LATTE  Latte is known for its vintage-inspired tops, statement shirts and unusual knits. The new collection focuses mainly on transitional contemporary and quirky styling, with a colour palette that includes aqua, mint and coral; dark navy and white; beige and white, vintage metallic as well as monochrome stories.

—

This season graphic patterns set the tone at Atelier Gardeur; black is the new summer colour making for innovative looks in combination with white.

Sporty styles with casually relaxed lines form a big part of the collection, while denim continues to be a strong player and features in all its facets.

—

63 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

TREND WATCH —

STEILMANN  Casual, feminine and elegant elements set the tone at Steilmann this season. Smart dresses sit alongside lacy, soft jersey tops and diamante-encrusted denims, while the colour palette stretches from monochrome stories through nudes, yellows and pastels.

—

PASSPORT  Transparency is a central theme at Passport, coming through in the form of laser cuts, cut-outs, and sheer materials such as lace, mesh and chiffons. Blousons replace biker jackets this season, while scuba skirts and dresses with mesh and lace details combine elegant and sporty elements.

—

B YOUNG  A strong sports-inspired direction runs through B Young’s collection, with two-piece jogging suits at its core. Look out for features such as athletic stripes, zippers and casual indigo styles.

—

DRANELLA  Crossover blouses and wrap dresses are highlights at Dranella this season, while bermuda shorts offer versatility across formal and casual dressing.

Sleeveless blazers, meanwhile, give an updated option for summer suiting and occasionwear.

—

KAPALUA  Lightness, feminine nonchalance, sporty details and seductive transparency sum up the range at Kapalua. The silhouettes are natural and relaxed, perfectly translated with soft oversized tops such as shirts, sweaters and blouses.

—

ISABEL DE PEDRO

JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN

LAUREN VIDAL

This season Isabel de Pedro is adding unusual new knitwear designs while also exploring new fabrics with rich textures and recovering demi couture patterns. White, gold, orange, blue, fuchsia and green are key colours.

—

Lightweight, luxurious blended cashmere comes from Johnstons of Elgin, which is opting for an effortless, versatile and adaptable style this season. Brights and pastels are the main colour direction for s/s 15.

—

The signature look at Lauren Vidal is sophisticated and elegant, with immaculate tailoring, unstructured knits and elegant dresses taking centre stage. Powder colours bring softness and lightness to the collection, along with romantic laces in a variety of colours.

—

65 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

TREND WATCH —

TREND:

TANGO’ED

Shades of orange, tangerine, coral and peach add a welcome colour splash to an otherwise rather neutral summer season, whether used as block colours against prints or subtle accents within crisp-white styles.

—

BANDOLERA  At Bandolera, the focus is on harmonious colour stories, mainly centred around peach and coral, blues and turquoise, monochrome and natural shades, and with that the brand is reflecting all the key trends of the season.

Easy-to-wear tops, elegant and yet understated dresses as well as printed trousers are among the highlights.

—

SAHARA  Asymmetric tunics and relaxed jersey separates are once again the signature look at Sahara.

Sophisticated, organic neutrals sit alongside modern citrus and coral highlights.

—

SCHNEIDERS  At Schneiders you will find understated tailoring across both its daywear and outerwear pieces.

Casual blazer styles, long knitted cardigans and quilted techno jackets with jersey lining are among the key styles.

—

FABER 

MARBLE  Chic, feminine, wearable and adaptable co-ordinates are the Marble signature. The s/s 15 range features fashion knitwear and tops in various prints, jeans and key wardrobe essentials.

—

Faber continues to offer a versatile mix of knits, wearable jersey tops and smart-casual blousons and blazers, with all key trend colour stories referenced in the collection. Look out for printed tops teamed with collarless blazers, as well as elegant summer cardigans, which are among the highlights.

—

67 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

TREND WATCH —

TREND:

PRINTS

After a couple of summer seasons dominated by ditsy florals and watercolour prints, more bold and graphic versions are coming to the fore, often mixing contrasting graphics in one outfit.

—

EUGEN KLEIN  Eugen Klein offers a complete co-ordinated collection of modern classics, sporty daywear, smart and unstructured suiting and stand-out solo pieces. Key styles in this range are dresses with 3/4-length sleeves teamed with matching jackets, creating outfits that can be dressed up for occasions or worn separately as daywear.

—

JOSEPH RIBKOFF  From polka dots and stripes through florals and paisley prints to bold colour-block abstracts, Joseph Ribkoff is offering a versatile mix of prints and treatments in the collection. Feminine and figure-flattering silhouettes across dresses and separates give plenty of options for day and occasionwear dressing.

—

IMITZ  Offering a bolder take on understated petals, Imitz is integrating bold florals into its mix of styles, which also feature Aztec-inspired knits and monochrome styles. The look is casual and wearable, presenting a diverse combination of classic and trend-led pieces.

—

FRANSA  Fransa is offering a new take on animal prints, injecting some subtle colour options into classic leopard graphics, making for a new and somewhat more understated interpretation.

—

FRANK LYMAN  Prints once again dominate at Frank Lyman, and are on-trend and eye-catching. Whether exotic abstract graphics or bold floral blooms – or even combined together – they make for an interesting mix of visual effects.

—

68 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

TREND WATCH —

TREND:

AU NATUREL

While neutrals have always had a strong place in summer collections, this season the combination of beige and white with subtle creams is really coming through.

It’s an elegant take on a popular colour scheme, but it works across both formal and sophisticated dressing, as well as casual and more relaxed looks.

—

RABE  Fine knitwear sets the tone at Rabe, with highlights including cotton-mix styles in coarse weaves or as multi gauge with a glossy yarn. A two-colour mini jacquard, lace prints and a ribbon yarn decorated with gems sum up the characteristics of the range.

—

CINQUE  The look at Cinque is dominated by a sports luxe theme, with a minimalist colour palette of beiges, whites, creams, greys and light blue. Silhouettes are softly tailored for a cool, relaxed and slick look, while textures are kept to clean surfaces and high quality fabrics such as silks and satins.

—

KIRSTEN 

OLSEN  A splash of coral breaks up a neutral and understated colour palette at Olsen, which is otherwise dominated by whites, beiges, greys and creams. Textures, however, play a key part, with different materials juxtaposed against each other.

—

Key pieces at Kirsten for s/s 15 are blazers, blouson styles and embossed jackets, many of which feature laser cuts, lace insets and patches. The colour scheme is dominated by sophisticated neutrals such as camels, stone and taupe, as well as black and white, pale pink, pale blue, peppermint, fuchsia and coral.

—

69 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

TREND WATCH —

LECOMTE  Lecomte’s knitwear range includes a versatile mix of styles, such as fine and thick knits, often with crochet work or metallic features. Semi-transparent net looks are particularly eye-catching and are accompanied by matching tops made of flowing materials.

—

ISCHIKO  At Ischiko the two main starting points for the season are colour and texture.

High-tech waffle-knit and lustrous viscose are mixed with light jersey and voluminous cotton knitwear, while soft flowing fishnet looks also feature. The colour palette is gentle, with naturals and pastels key.

—

ANGELS NEVER DIE  Feminine creams and whites teamed with powder and petrol blues, pinks and easy-to-wear highlight colours sum up the look at Angels Never Die. Dresses, tunics and tops are combined with edgy jackets to provide an individual look.

—

PURE BY LUCIA  Key looks at Pure by Lucia combine chiffon jumpers with a sequined jersey top and coated denim, or focus on oversized boxy cardigans over sheer tops, twin-sets made of Lurex yarn and silk-chiffon tops in powdery tones. Transparency and layering set the main style direction.

—

B-YU  Cotton and linen-mix twin sets are among the predicted bestsellers at B-Yu, sitting alongside Lurex soft tweed tunics. Gold, white, cream and beige, as well as pale blue, lemon and navy, are among the main colour stories.

—

NICE CONNECTION

SATHIA

SARAH LAWRENCE

A central theme at Nice Connection is cashmere-mixed knitwear with pearl and lurex trims. Linen and cotton mix sweaters and cardigans with co-ordinating T-shirts also feature, with the colour palette comprising pale blue, pink, lemon, gold, cream, beige and white.

—

Printed images on key styles create interest at Sathia, with tunics, shirts, dresses and suits among the predicted bestsellers. The look is classic but modern with feminine silhouettes that flatter a variety of customers.

—

Sarah Lawrence offers a relaxed look that is suitable for either leisure or work. The collection comprises a full range of styles including jackets, blazers, overcoats, shirts, blouses, tops, T-shirts, pants, skirts, as well as a denim line.

—

SPRING/SUMMER 2015

PREMIUM INTERNATIONAL FASHION TRADE SHOW

PREMIUM ORDER MUNICH

jul 8–10

aug 9–12

STATION-Berlin

MOC Munich

W W W. P R E M I U M E X H I B I T I O N S . CO M

Floral bomber jacket: Traffic People, 01245 280878 Blue Dress: Uzma Bozai, 020 7580 3456 Ring: Melissa Curry, 0035 387282795

Top: Bielle, 020 7831 9163 Tribal print shorts: Ruby Rocks, 07973 718301 Shoes: Melissa, 020 7377 2570 Necklace: Kat & Bee, 07958 123344

Pale yellow cut-out top: Neon Rose, 0161 835 2064 Floral skirt: Yumi, 020 8961 2299 Shoes: Melissa, 020 7377 2570 Socks: Stylist’s own

Geometric print top and matching shorts: Pyrus, 020 8985 1486 Shoes: Melissa, 020 7377 2570

Bomber jacket, trousers and bandeau top with peplum: Traffic People, 01245 280878 Shoes: Melissa, 020 7377 2570

White shirt: Uzma Bozai, 020 7580 3456 Floral skirt: Yumi, 020 8961 2299 Bracelet: Melissa Curry, 0035 387282795

Yellow cardigan: Yumi, 020 8961 2299 Top underneath: Neon Rose, 0161 835 2064 Floral print jeans: JQ Jeans, 020 7702 0203 Shoes: Melissa, 020 7377 2570

Bomber jacket: Ruby Rocks, 07973 718301 Floral leggings: Sylvian Heach, 020 3432 6385 Ring: Melissa Curry, 0035 387282795

Peter Pan collar dress: Traffic People, 01245 280878

Floral dress: Yumi, 020 8961 2299 Flower in hair: Stylist’s own

Stripe multiprint top: Traffic People, 01245 280878 Multiprint dress: Silvian Heach, 020 3432 6385 Shoes: Melissa, 020 7377 2570 Bracelet: Hipanema, 07802 292221

Multiprint dress: Ruby Rocks, 07973 718301 Shoes: 020 7377 2570 Floral headpiece and socks: Stylist’s own

Pink playsuit: Neon Rose, 0161 835 2064 Blue print biker jacket: Sylvian Heach, 020 3432 6385 Necklace: Melissa Curry, 0035 387282795

Photographs: Darren Black, www.darrenblackphotography.com Model: Andrea at Zone Models, www.zone-models.com Styling: Fran Lee, Production Element, www.productionelement.com Hair & make-up: Charlotte Yeomans, www.charlotteyeomans.com

90 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

SCOOP —

SCOOP INTERNATIONAL 13-15 JULY 2014, SAATCHI GALLERY, LONDON SW3 AND PHILLIPS, LONDON SW1

As the industry prepares for the sector’s premium trade show this month, WWB takes a look ahead at the latest brands to launch s/s 15 at the event.

— 

FINLAY & CO Crafting each piece from a single piece of wood, eyewear label Finlay & Co specialises in handmade wooden sunglasses.

The British brand unveils a new collection for s/s 15 at Scoop, comprising a range of new styles – each one unique due to the material’s natural variations.

—



AIMO RICHLY Newly signed to Scoop, Italian knitwear label Aimo Richly arrives at the show with a collection that plays with contrasts.

Quintessentially British floral motifs juxtapose with fresh geometrics across a range of silhouettes inspired by the concept of women who borrow knits from their partners.

— 

LUCA MICHELE London fashion label Luca Michele was founded by Italian-born brothers and marries directional style with traditional and premium standards of manufacture.

—

91 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

SCOOP —



NUE 19.04 Inspired by art, music and travel, French fashion label Nue 19.04 brings together a collection of contrasts for the new season. Silk satin and extra-fine cottons contrast with denim within a range of contemporary designs for s/s 15 and beyond.

—





MY SUNDAY MORNING

NEUE

Recently signed to Scoop, French label My Sunday Morning focuses on boho chic and French flair with its latest range of lavish yet delicate designs, inspired by “the light of a Sunday morning and happiness”.

—

Neue creates easy-to-wear, skilfully straightforward clothing, using materials selected to be natural and comfortable, resulting in wearable and clean pieces designed not to date.

—

www.uniquecollectionsltd.com Manchester Showroom T: 0044 161 8365200 | E: sales@uniquecollectionsltd.com London Showroom T: 0044 208 6164558 | E: london@uniquecollectiosltd.com

THE ESSENTIAL RESOURCE FOR THE WOMENSWEAR INDUSTRY. —

wwb-online.co.uk NEWS • RETAIL • BRANDS • OPINION • FEATURES • PRODUCT • EVENTS • BLOG

Make wwb-online.co.uk your daily source of essential fashion industry information – it’s only a click away.

— To advertise on wwb-online.co.uk call Sam on 01484 846069 or email sam@ras-publishing.com

94 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

MODA —

FIRST GLANCE AT MODA Next month will see the UK’s most comprehensive fashion exhibition return to Birmingham’s NEC on 10-12 August, bringing together brands across the full spectrum of the fashion sector. WWB looks ahead.

— LOOK Z Newly launched last year, London label Look Z makes its Moda debut with its s/s 15 Paradise collection. Inspired by animal skin and designed in striking Brazilian silhouettes, the collection is 100 per cent European-made from fine Italian fabrics that are chlorine and UV resistant up to UPF 50.

—

CPM CPM remains true to its style hallmarks of relaxed fashion while introducing three new themes across its latest offer – Glam, Rebel at Heart and Sound of Romance.

Alluding to sparkling luxury, the casual street look and romantic sports luxe respectively, the collection sits within the casual sector while incorporating subtle elements of decadence through intricate detailing.

—

RAVEL Soft mellow tones of almond and cream complemented by summer shades of apricot and peach are within footwear label Ravel’s latest collection for s/s 15. Texturally, the brand’s palette is diverse, with summer raffia finishes, metallic shimmers and Aztec-inspired embellishments featuring across the label’s wide portfolio of styles from flats to platform mules.

—

LÉO GUY Parisian label Léo Guy presents its most comprehensive range to date for s/s 15, comprising both structured and loose silhouettes. Colourful embroideries scattered with beads are prevalent throughout the collection, alongside delicate lace and light, romantic feminine fabrics.

—

95 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

MASAI Exhibiting exclusively at Moda for the UK this season, Danish label Masai presents a range of inspiring silhouettes alongside its core classics. Oversize tops, tunics and dresses are teamed with trousers or fitted tube skirts to achieve the brand’s signature look of flowing, feminine shapes that never lack structure.

—

DOLCIS Subtle tones and a neutral colour palette see footwear label Dolcis offer the most flexible of complements to womenswear this season. Multi-strap sandals and vintage silhouettes are key, while intricate lace, bows and stitching add detailing across the s/s 15 collection.

Sports-luxe styling also prevails, designed in line with wider womenswear trends of modern tailoring and a clean-cut aesthetic.

—

MODA —

POMODORO

LA NATURELLE Based on the Côte d’Azur, with concept stores all over France, La Naturelle brings French flair to the comfort of natural fibres. Specialising in natural linens and cottons, the brand is focusing on its international expansion this season with its latest range of styles in a wearable colour palette of five summer shades.

—

Pomodoro unveils a range inspired by the elements of nature with the introduction of five key lines for s/s 15.

Honfleur and True Blue incorporate elements of the sea with their nautical styles and moody blue colour palette respectively, while Enchanted Garden takes influence from spring florals. Desert Island focuses on outdoor Caribbean culture, while Rainforest (pictured) explores the tropics with its technicolour florals.

— CLEO Cleo introduces a new long-line bra silhouette for s/s 15, designed to be super-flattering as well as providing essential structure under this season’s key womenswear styles. Available up to a J cup, Cleo brings electrifying youth and energy to lingerie design without any compromise to fit or shape.

—

96 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

RETAIL DIARY Now, more than ever, it’s essential that an independent shop such as Valentines retains its niche and status as a destination store.

We are flanked by heavyweights such as McEwans and House of Bruar, so evolving and adapting to ensure that customers choose us over competitors keeps us on our toes.

Although Valentines has been trading for 89 years, Halina (my sister) bought the business 13 years ago, and together we have spent much time and effort in repositioning the business profile and lowering the average age of the Valentines customer. Thirteen years ago, the average age was 55-plus, but we now have customers in their 20s. This is largely thanks to the contemporary image of heritage brands such as Dubarry and Barbour and the broad appeal of lifestyle labels including Joules and Seasalt. We still focus heavily on traditional heritage brands such as Magee and Schneiders, but it’s very much been a case of injecting something new into the mix. We carry out most of our buying at Pure and Moda, which is great for finding new brands and gaining an overview of the sector. It has been a process of lowering the age demographic without alienating our core, loyal customer who has been shopping with us for years. As a Scottish retailer, wool has always been a feature for us in both menswear and womenswear and this will remain the case. We are well aware that we need to pay attention to the next generation and so we have been developing our presence on Facebook and are gradually transferring our 2000-strong mailing database to email.

As an independent retailer, the majority of time can be taken up managing the day-to-day challenges, with little time left for investigating new possibilities.

Speaking to fellow retailers is always helpful.

As a member of Bira and FAB, in the near future I plan to look at the preferential credit card processing deal they offer through HSBC; it’s such an obvious benefit.

We have used the legal helpline on a number of occasions and it’s an invaluable member service which easily pays the membership fee.

— David Agnew is managing director of family business Valentines of Crieff and a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB) www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk.

FORUM —

RETAIL FORUM

The latest news from the industry —

DONNA IDA RELAUNCHES WEBSITE

REGENT STREET GETS OWN SHOPPING APP Regent Street has become the first shopping street in Europe to pioneer a new mobile phone app that delivers exclusive, personalised content to shoppers about what’s on offer during their visit.

The app uses Bluetooth technology to communicate with beacons in each store. As shoppers walk past, they receive alerts direct to their mobile phone about a range of things, from information about new products and upcoming events to exclusive offers only available to those shopping on the street that day. Beacon technology is a new innovation that has only previously been trialled by a handful of individual retailers; this is the first time the technology has been employed across an entire shopping street. The app is free to download from the App Store.

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Denim destination Donna Ida has relaunched its website www.donnaida.com to improve customer experience with new functionality and a new chic, minimalistic look.

The e-commerce platform, which launched in 2008, has been redesigned to include a scrolling homepage to highlight the week’s key trends, supported by three feature blocks for fashion inspiration. Functions such as easy social media sharing, comparison tools and wish-list functions also feature, while an improved Denim Clinic mirrors the bricks-and-mortar boutique experience, with owner Donna Ida Thornton having introduced videos for each body shape with cut and brand suggestions.

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97 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

FORUM —

IF YOU WEREN’T IN RETAIL, WHAT WOULD HAVE BEEN YOUR CHOSEN CAREER?

CAMBRIDGE BOUTIQUE CELEBRATES TOUR DE FRANCE Womenswear indie Boudoir Femme celebrated the Tour de France with a special event outside its Cambridge store earlier this month, with a team of intrepid cyclists doing 100 miles on a special turbo trainer sponsored by Primo cycles.

The distance is equivalent to the distance of the third stage of the Tour de France, which passed through the city as part of his year’s extravaganza. The event, called the Cycle Challenge 100, raised money for Tom’s Trust, a local charity caring for children with brain tumours.

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ELIZABETH STOCKLEY “I have always loved the idea of being an interior Owner, Zig Zag, designer, as I feel I work Shrewsbury particularly well with colours. I enjoy seeking out and placing interesting objects and homeware that help make a room, a table setting – or a shop!”

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POLLYANNA SHUTS SHOP Barnsley womenswear boutique Pollyanna has closed its doors after almost 50 years in business, but retail icon and store owner Rita Britton has other plans.

“The closure of Pollyanna came off the back of having a stroke six weeks ago,” says Britton. “I was in hospital for a while and thought about what I was doing with my life. It has put a lot of things into focus. I’ve been working seven days a week, and I need to give myself more time. I enjoy designing and manufacturing and I’m going into that side of things. I’m not retiring altogether – there’s life in the old dog yet!”

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MY FAVOURITE SHOP...

ROBERTA

by Joy Redfern, owner, Joy Redfern Agency

SARAH COSGROVE Co-founder, Arkangel & Felon, Edinburgh

LAUREN FERGUSON “I’d have been an Owner/buyer, Sisters interior designer. I love home décor and have Boutique, Falkirk renovated lots of properties. Everyone tells me it’s what I should be doing if I wasn’t in fashion.”

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Roberta Bournemouth and Christchurch Owners: Keith and Roberta Williams Established: The first shop opened in 1983, second in 1989 and third in 1995.

Brand mix: Marc Cain, Armani Jeans, Moschino, Versace, Maison Scotch, Ingenue, Vilagallo, Frank Lyman, Forever Unique “One of my favourite shops is Roberta of Bournemouth. Labels include the two lovely brands that I am fortunate to represent, Elisa Cavaletti and Leo Guy, all beautifully presented inside the shop’s super-chic interiors. Keith and Roberta are known for their focus on customer service, are always welcoming and offer a wide range of exciting – in some cases unique – fashion and accessory collections to customers old and new. I couldn’t imagine anyone leaving the stores without a purchase and a smile.”

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“I originally trained at theatre school and still have a yearning to be involved in anything theatrical. I’d also secretly love to be an acrobat. Before I had the shop I was styling fashion and editorial ad shoots in London, with some trips overseas. I loved the unstructured nature of the business and short projects.”

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MELISSA WHEELER Co-owner, Ambience of Colchester

“Having been brought up by a mother who has worked in fashion all her life, I would still want to be immersed in the crazy world of the ‘rag trade’. I may have opted for a fashion editor or writing career, but my heart would always be in the retailing camp as it’s in my blood.”

99 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

EXPERTS —

ADVICE Industry experts answer your retail questions —

FRANCHISING & ONLINE SALES: NEGOTIATING THE MINEFIELD

HOW TO MANAGE CUSTOMER EXPECTATIONS IN-STORE

Franchising is an increasingly popular way for fashion brands to dip their toes into the water of a new territory. Recently, there have been a flurry of brands (including some big hitters) that have announced aggressive international expansion plans via new franchise stores.

For small fashion retailers, the challenge is trying to compete with the larger players when it comes to stock availability and customer service. This, teamed with high customer expectations, has put shop and boutique owners under pressure to up the ante and improve their service offering.

However, bricks and mortar is one thing, online quite another. One issue faced by many brands expanding into new territories is what to do concerning their online offering. Do you give the franchise partner control over the online offering on the basis that it is best suited to know what works with consumers in that territory? Or do you retain control over your brand’s online presence on a global basis, with a “one size fits all” approach?

The most significant risk you face when franchising your brand is that you will lose control over your image. While brand consistency is the key to successful franchising, its importance in the online channel cannot be overstated. The risk for a brand of sending mixed messages in different territories is an overall loss of focus.

Many brands approach the issue of online sales by keeping open the possibility of letting a franchise partner operate its own website, but only under the watchful eye of the brand. Brands will also often issue each franchise partner with online sales guidelines – the brand’s manual as to what is expected of online operations.

In addition, brands must ensure that they have considered the ownership of the domain name of the franchise partner’s website, and what is to happen to it on termination of the franchise agreement.

The last thing a brand wants is for an ex-franchise partner to have ownership of a domain name incorporating the brand’s trading name.

Finally, there is the issue of how far the brand can prevent a franchise partner from selling (actively or “passively”) into another country via its website. For example, can a brand stop its franchise partner from selling a piece to a consumer outside the franchise partner’s territory? In the EEA, such issues are subject to EU competition law restraints. In non-EEA territories, national competition laws will come into play and must be considered carefully so that the brand can control sales by a franchise partner outside its territory as far as possible.

Ultimately, big rewards can await the brand that decides to work with franchise partners to expand its reach. However, it is vital that the brand considers how it wants to deal with online sales in the new territory.

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Emma Roake is a senior associate at Fox Williams LLP www.fashionlaw.co.uk, www.foxwilliams.com

The latest wave of consumers – Generation X – is extremely tech savvy and relies on it to enable a seamless experience, whether online or in-store.

With the retail experience more about the customer than ever before, retailers are looking to applications that will help them further personalise the shopping experience. Although, often for smaller retailers, the purse strings are tight and the latest technological developments are all but a dream.

However, this could become a thing of the past with the latest cloud systems. Cloud technology has grown in prominence over the last few years, and areas such as security and reliability are no longer a concern due to low capital and maintenance costs and the service offering having significantly improved.

Modern cloud POS models such as PowaPOS now come as an integrated package, inclusive of all operations required by a small business, with the functionality to accept card payments via Chip and PIN or contactless, connection to tablet POS (Mpos), Bluetooth barcode and QR code scanners, as well as the capability to record customer history and connect to a transactional website for improved product availability.

This level of service will turn the tables for SMEs and catapult them ahead of the competition, with software updates and applications downloadable at the click of a button.

If additional services such as Bluetooth beaconing and electronic shelf edge labelling are integrated, a retailer will have a hardware platform capable of developing targeted customer campaigns to build loyalty and drive sales.

When selecting an appropriate business system, shop owners should look for an all-in-one solution and ensure there are no hidden costs, opting for a platform with the capability to connect to other technologies such as Mpos, if and when they wish to utilise them.

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David Russell is director of sales at Secure Retail, a provider of payments technology, and can be contacted through fieldworksmarketing.com.

100 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

DIRECTORY —

GARMENT STANDS

WANTED

HEADWEAR

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102 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2014

UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL —

TOBY MOTT His slogan tees kicked off his fashion career and, years later, they still have a cult following. Artist and designer Toby Mott shares what inspires his work.

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You became a fashion designer by fluke after an illustrious career as a punk, artist, interior designer and music video producer. Are you more comfortable with being part of the fashion industry now?

I am a polymath within the creative arts, embracing both art and fashion. I welcome being part of the fashion industry – after all, creativity and commerce have always been linked. Being an artist has allowed me to work in various visual fields from fashion, graphics, film, music video to album cover design. These are all one and the same for me; I see it all as my art.

Why do you think your label has been so popular?

My brand still maintains its following because it incorporates a fun, irreverent energy in the somewhat serious world of fashion. With a mixture of ironic, deadpan designs, I am able to reflect the zeitgeist. This means my designs stay fresh and relevant.

What fuels the slogans and straplines that you use?

I am influenced by the world around me, and intrigued by our throwaway celebrity culture. As for my best ideas, they usually come to me when I am travelling in the back of a limo, driving through the city at the break of dawn, where I am at one and apart from the world as night turns into day.

Your recent Punk Art Archive exhibitions have inspired your latest collection. What is at the heart of the range?

I am using distressed metallic foils, reflecting the luxury and poverty of everyday life. We have moved into salvage cotton sweatshirts and new, organic plant-based fashion fabrics, too, along with offering our bestselling baseball and T-shirt designs. More cropped tees and sweats are available, as well as punk flag designs, and essay prints that emulate the thoughts of today’s generation.

You are showing the collection at Scoop International for the first time – do you want to grow the range further in fashion boutiques?

In a word, yes. The demand has been so great I thought it would be easier to showcase my collection in one go at Scoop, allowing me to reach a wider audience. My brand has always been popular with the small on-trend boutiques and this is an excellent platform to reach them.

What are your plans for the brand going forward?

We will offer outerwear, denim, swimwear and childrenswear, as well as limited-edition designs and collaborating with diverse brands. Watch this space.

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INSIDER: — Who is your style icon?

Sid Vicious – he was distinctly English and subversive and he shone like a star with a short burst of energy in his short tragic life. He is my nihilistic anti-hero.

— Which fashion designer do you admire?

Vivienne Westwood – she is singularly unique with her idiosyncratic style, exemplifying her unique take on Britishness.

— What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever been given?

Three come to mind: “If it can go wrong, it will go wrong”; “Toby, don’t forget, it’s a race to the bottom”; and “If you don’t supply the market, someone else will”.

— What’s the one (fashion) item you can’t live without?

My Turnbull & Asser shirts from Jermyn Street and my gold Rolex watch.

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Tel: 0207 636 7130 Showing at Pure stand K50 and Moda stand I31