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issue 210 | FeBruary 2014 | ÂŁ6.95 |

From classic to contemporary the best of what Moda has to offer this season — cut From the same cloth Mwb speaks to private white v.c designer nick ashley

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R E T A I L 12

Online Insider


Retail Insider


Business talk

Advice, news and issues online The latest in-store news Essential advice from four key industry experts

G E N T 24

Product news Rounding up the key stories this month


In-season Spring in your step


Tuning up for the new season


Peacocks and pea coats

Picks from Pitti Uomo The finest street style from Florence


Spiewak relaunches for 110th anniversary Profiling the classic American brand


London Collections: Men Cream of the British crop

M O D A 42

Moda Lifestyle


Moda Tailoring


Moda Shirts & Trousers


Moda Accessories


Moda Urban Life


Moda Footwear




Moda Information

Casual and contemporary mainstream menswear A tailored approach to city dressing Dressing from top to bottom with the best in shirting and trousers Essential point of sale extras and add-ons The best in urban, sports, surf and denim Continuing its reign as the largest footwear show in the UK Contemporary and directional apparel and footwear The who, what and when from this month’s show

D E N I M 66


Product news


Rounding up the key stories this month




From hide to fashion ride


Bread & Butter


Berlin voices

Home run Profiling Derby independent Canopy What the Berlin show had to offer Interviews direct from German trade shows Seek and Premium

R E G U L A R S 7 8 20

Comment News Interview

76 79 82

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With…

Nick Ashley

Casely-Hayford Front cover:

Atelier Scotch 0031 681934373

We will be showing our new Autumn/ Winter 14 Collection, along with our updated Stock Service lines at:

MODA Gent Exhibition Sunday 16th - Tuesday 18th February 2014 NEC Birmingham - STAND MC41

Exclusive show offers for visitors to the above show. For more information contact Julie Oates E T 0113 240 2211




Victoria Jackson — depUt y


Tom Bottomley — contribUtors Isabella Griffiths Laura Turner Christina Williams — sUb


Amanda Batley — designers Michael Podger James Lindley Clive Holloway Richard Boyle — sales


Sharon Le Goff — sUb scriptions Caroline Mackinnon — head



Jamie Harden — prodUction


Gill Brabham — portfolio


Nick Cook — Marketing


Stephanie Parker — Managing


Colette Tebbutt —

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a buyer series fashion business publication Mwb is a fashion business publication produced by ras publishing ltd. other titles in the buyer series include wwb and cwb. ras publishing ltd is an ite group plc company.

our main news story in this issue of mwB looks at the buoyant start 2014 has got off to on the whole, following figures released by the office of national statistics, that showed the economy in the uk grew at its fastest annual rate since 2007 last year. — with retailers experiencing some tough months recently, especially those still continuing to battle against the weather in the south of england – some of which is still under flood water eight weeks on – the news comes with a cautious exhale of breath. the mood across shows such as pitti Uomo and seek in berlin was optimistic and, when i think back to how flat the same shows seemed this time last year, it was great to see the sombre mood had subsided, even perhaps if it was just for show purposes. of course, when a journalist asks how things are, i always hear the same “great”, “fantastic” and sometimes even the odd “never better”, but this season it seemed more, dare i say it, genuine. we spoke to independent retailer guy hudson this month (p8) whose opinion on media coverage influencing consumer spending power i couldn’t agree with more. positive press helps to instill confidence in shoppers and, with that, purse strings become a little looser. when all the news brings is doom and gloom, it’s no surprise that consumers batten down the hatches and retreat from spending. but if your product mix is right and you’re offering them something they want and can’t get down the road, you’re more than half way there. this leads me onto our february issue. if new names and fresh product are what you’re looking for, be sure to check out Moda, which takes place at birmingham’s nec later this month. with a raft of new names across apparel and footwear, including dr Martens, Marshall artist, weekend offender and anerkjendt, this is one of the strongest contemporary line-ups the show has had to date. the Mwb team will be out in force at the three-day event, on the hunt for the best-dressed man for the show's new initiative sunday best, where the most dapper dresser will be awarded with a made-to-measure gibson london suit. i'll look forward to seeing your sartorial choices at the show. Victoria Jackson editor




OPT IM ISM M A R K S STA RT TO 2 0 1 4 latest figures released by the office for national statistics (ons) have revealed that the uk’s economy grew at its fastest annual rate since 2007 last year with overall GDp having increased by 1.9 per cent in 2013, compared with 2012. the news has been welcomed as the onset of a new chapter in the economical recovery, after years of doom and gloom that have affected all corners of business. Many indies up and down the country indeed concur with the positive start to 2014, though most remain cautious about pronouncing a recuperation of the market just yet. guy hudson, owner of lynx in harrogate, north yorkshire, has seen a marked improvement in trade over the last few months, and attributes some of the change in consumer confidence to more positive reports in the media. “i’ve noticed that things are getting better since december,” he says. “the press is more positive, and it does then have a positive effect on the consumer; it influences them massively. it can encourage them to hold back on spending or make them feel more confident and willing to go out and spend. we’ve had such a long and severe dip in the marketplace that i think consumers are desperate for good news and to release the purse strings. we’ve had two positive months in terms of the media, and this is reflected in footfall and takings.” lewis tweedle, owner of lewis yates in billericay, essex, agrees. “things definitely improved over christmas and throughout last year,” he says. “i think people listen to the news, and if it sounds as though the economy is getting better, they’re willing to spend. customer confidence is definitely up, but i still think that, as a retailer, you’ve got to be offering them something they want, otherwise they won’t just spend anywhere.” the tentatively positive outlook by indies is also backed by the british independent retailers association’s sales monitor for the last quarter of 2013, which reveals the best average growth among indies since 2010. though just under half of independent retailers who took part in the survey found things tougher, the fine balance between the two produced a small amount of net growth of just over one per cent. the report also suggests that independents are feeling confident about the year ahead, with levels of confidence said to be at their highest since 2009. —

fresh from competing in the 2013 america’s cup, four-time gold medallist sir ben ainslie will front henri lloyd’s latest campaign inspired by the brand’s rich maritime heritage. craig prest, creative director for henri lloyd, says, “spring 2014 is all about investing further into strong nautical looks and the very best of british design. from seafaring stripes and colour blocking to indispensable seasonal staples, the collection is easy to wear and easy to style.” the label is keen to honour ainslie’s achievements, dubbing him a “true modern-day pioneer”. its campaign features shots by esteemed fashion photographer steve harries, and will be released alongside an exclusive behind-the-scenes video prior to the official collection launch this month. —

WESTFIELD TR IALS “CLICK AND COLLECT ” london shopping destination westfield is trialling “click and collect” for customers at its shepherd’s bush location. shoppers will be able to order from the likes of asos, topshop and house of fraser, and then pick up purchases from the collect+ @ westfield lounge. with fitting rooms available, customers are able to try on purchases in-store – a first in the Uk for online delivery service collect+. there are also set to be dedicated parking spaces available for click-and-collect customers. the service could be extended to the group’s other Uk shopping centres in stratford, birmingham and derby if found to be successful in shepherd’s bush. —





Asos has revealed strong trading figures in the runup to Christmas, with overall retail sales having soared by 38 per cent in the four months to 31 December. UK sales rose by 37 per cent to £133.7m, while EU retail sales increased by 69 per cent to £87.3m and US sales to £32.3m, a rise of 28 per cent. According to Asos, the e-tailer had 7.9 million active customers on 31 December, up by 41 per cent on the previous year. “We have enjoyed another strong Christmas and made a good start to the financial year, with retail sales growth for the four months to 31 December 2013 up 38 per cent to £335.7m,” says Asos CEO Nick Robertson. —

How Britain can double its exports by 2020 and bring manufacturing home is just one topic to be discussed at the third National Manufacturing Conference hosted by EEF, the organisation for UK manufacturing companies. Entitled Make it Britain, the conference takes place on Tuesday 4 March 2014 at the QE2 Centre, Westminster. The event will see senior industrialists and politicians question how to rebuild thriving supply chains and meet the Chancellor’s target doubling of exports to £1tn over the next six years. Keynote speakers at the conference, sponsored by asset finance provider Lombard, include secretary of state for business Rt Hon Dr Vince Cable MP and chief executive of GKN plc Nigel Stein. They will be joined by some of the UK’s most successful manufacturing exporters including Angus Thirwell, CEO and cofounder of Hotel Chocolat. —



Footwear label Anthony Miles, which launched in 2012, has appointed former Kurt Geiger men’s production manager Chris Margetts as its new creative manager. The brand will also expand its offer for autumn/winter 2014 with two new sole units. This will include a new wedge sole that takes the block of colour at the heel and blends it neatly into the midsection of the sole. Further updates have been added across the range, alongside the incorporation of new materials and techniques such as rubberised leather, which is designed to embody the brand’s minimal styling. —

SuperGroup, the parent company of lifestyle label Superdry, has assigned Hans Schmitt, managing director of international and wholesale at the company, to the board. Schmitt, currently responsible for the wholesale business in both the UK market and international Superdry concessions, franchises and retail stores, will join the board from May 2014. “Hans has brought extensive international experience to SuperGroup,” says chairman Peter Bamford. “His appointment to the board reflects his personal contribution to date and the significance of our international growth strategy. Schmitt adds, “After eight months in the role I am more than convinced than ever in the size of the opportunity for the Superdry brand, and feel I can play an important part in helping the team deliver it.” —

DENIM LABEL WÅVEN LAUNCHES FOR A/W 14 Autumn/winter 2014 will see the launch of contemporary denim label Wåven (pronounced woh-vuhn), across both the men’s and womenswear sector. The men’s range, which was showcased at Jacket Required earlier this month, comprises six styles of jeans across 19 washes, alongside 22 tops. The women’s line, meanwhile, offers 10 styles of jeans with 23 washes and 25 tops. Carrying inspiration from the luxury and contemporary denim market, Wåven is looking to target the trendconscious 16-35 year old. “We are so excited to announce the launch of Wåven at this season’s Jacket Required,” says Anika Islam, director, Wåven. “It is an honest brand alongside our focus on product design and creativity, our main priorities are fit, fabric and wash, and we want to keep true to this – a goal that our extensive combined experience in denim definitely supports.” For sales and more information contact Just Consultancies Ltd on 020 7739 7620. — MUSTO ANNOUNCES PARTNERSHIP WITH ABU DHABI OCEAN RACING Sailing clothing brand Musto has announced its partnership with Abu Dhabi Ocean Racing for the 2014-15 Volvo Ocean Race. The Volvo Ocean Race, which visits 10 cities in 10 countries, including the United Arab Emirates capital Abu Dhabi, and covers 39,379 nautical miles, is acclaimed as the world’s toughest ocean race. Musto will be the official supplier of sailing apparel and footwear for the next two editions of the Volvo Ocean Race. — NEW SEASON SEES MARKETING BOOST FOR LACOSTE Lifestyle label Lacoste has boosted its marketing budget for 2014, following its acquisition in November 2012 by Swiss retail group Maus Frères. The brand has unveiled a new marketing campaign, which sees the introduction of a new tag line, “Life is a beautiful sport”. Lacoste plans to increase its global marketing budget from five per cent to 10 per cent. Digital and film are expected to take 30 per cent, while print and billboard advertising will account for 40 per cent of the budget. Overall sales last year increased around five per cent from €1.8bn, with growth in 2014 expected to come from upgrading existing units rather than from new stores. — E.TAUTZ COLLABORATES WITH ROYAL SCHOOL OF NEEDLEWORK Menswear designer Patrick Grant, creative director of E.Tautz, joined forces with the students of the Royal School of Needlework (RSN) for the brand’s a/w 14 showcase at London Collections: Men earlier last month. The range features embellished, hand-embroidered garments created by the RSN students, who worked on key pieces such as shirts, a waistcoat and a contemporary twist on a biker jacket. —


in BrieF FURTHER WOLSEY PIONEERS RECRUITED British label Wolsey has welcomed on board a series of new ambassadors – the Wolsey Pioneers – in conjunction with the release of its Sportsman line. These include fashion designer Johan Lindeberg and pro golfers Tom Lewis, Robert Rock and James Heath, who will join current ambassador polar explorer Alex Hibbert. The Sportsman Line is a range of high-performance clothing and has been released for the autumn/winter 2014 buying season. —



gant has recruited steven kelly as head of wholesale for gant Uk and ireland. kelly will be responsible for all the brand’s wholesale operation, leading and directing the teams selling menswear, womenswear, childrenswear and homeware, as well as developing some of the label’s key licence businesses that it plans to increase focus on including footwear, underwear and accessories. “having reviewed our commercial structure and given the importance of developing our wholesale business, we have strengthened our wholesale team in order to deliver our plans over the next few years,” says fergus patterson, Md of gant Uk. kelly has extensive wholesale fashion experience, having worked previously at wolsey, Marc o’polo, dkny and fred perry. —

footwear label base london has appointed alan harrison as Uk sales manager. harrison rejoins the brand after a nine-year absence, during which he held roles at berghaus and grenson, to maintain and develop the brand’s position within the domestic Uk market. sales director Mark husted will continue to manage base london’s key accounts and concentrate his focus on the label’s rapidly expanding export business. “having alan back on board has allowed us to concentrate on growing our international business without neglecting our home market,” says husted. “he knows the business and the industry inside and out and has a great relationship with our network of sales agents. it allows me to ensure our international markets receive the attention they individually require to thrive.” —



streetwear label boxfresh has announced the appointment of alistair Mccombe as its new commercial director. having previously worked at nike, Mccombe his looking to maximise the brand’s 25th anniversary since launching. “for me, this year i will be putting the brand back on the map with the consumer,” says Mccombe. “we will excite our consumers again, so they need to be able to find us. “our strategy will focus on building great partnerships with our key Uk retailers, increasing our footprint in london, e-commerce and growing our international business, which is already extremely strong in germany,” he continues. “on top of all that, we intend to have some fun this year. there’s a lot to do, but also a lot to celebrate.” —

a larger venue for s/s 15 will support the continued growth of fashion trade exhibition panorama berlin, which saw an 11 per cent increase in visitor figures this season compared to s/s 14. the event, which attracted 40,081 visitors from 93 nations for a/w 14, also saw marked increase in collections shown, with figures rising from 360 to 400. the forthcoming s/s edition will, therefore, relocate from its current venue of the expocenter airport to a new Messe berlin location under the funkturm radio tower. advantages of the move, as well as providing more exhibition space across six halls, include space for fashion shows and easy access to public transport. —

EVENT FOR YOUNG START-UP FASHION FASHION ENTREPRENEURS UKFT Rise, the network for ambitious under-35s in the fashion and textile industry, held its debut Startup Fashion networking event last month, giving budding fashion entrepreneurs the chance to meet and hear from some of the industry’s most influential figures. The event took place at RBS headquarters at 250 Bishopsgate on 28 January and brought together a highprofile line-up of speakers, including Patrick Grant, creative director of E.Tautz and presenter of the Great British Sewing Bee; Stylist magazine’s fashion director, Alexandra Fullerton; CEO of Karen Millen Mike Shearwood; Harrods head of PR Lauren Stevenson; and representatives from Ted Baker, Orla Kiely, Etsy and Olivia Rubin. Providing an insight into launching and running a successful fashion business, the half-day event offered advice and guidance in a range of key areas including routes to market through retail, wholesale and international, building a brand through marketing and PR, financing a business and production. — PAUL SMITH EXHIBITION EXTENDED The Design Museum’s latest fashion exhibition, “Hello, my name is Paul Smith”, which was due to end in March, has been extended until mid-June due to “significant public demand.” In addition, the museum’s shop has also seen record sales of exhibition merchandise, with the most popular purchase the exhibition catalogue, closely followed by the “Every day is a new beginning” button badge. The exhibition charts the designer’s beginnings from a 3m x 3m shop in Nottingham to the global operation of Paul Smith today. “Hello, my name is Paul Smith will now run until 22 June at the Design Museum London. — FORUM INTRODUCES MORE TEXTILE INSPIRATIONAL FABRICS Among the new exhibitors at next month’s fashion fabric show Textile Forum is military fabric specialist A W Hainsworth. It will join more than 50 fabric collections during the two-day event aimed at buyers of daywear, eveningwear, bridalwear, lingerie and accessories, for men, women and children. Other new exhibitors are Platinum Bridal Fabrics, Partap Fashion Fabrics and Zia Embroideries. Textile Forum takes place on 5-6 March at One Marylebone, Regent’s Park. As part of its plans to develop Textile Forum, a new website and registration system has launched. Visit


online insiDer advice, news and issues online.

advice: why retailers must prepare For times oF peak DemanD in 2014

Jim DaViDson is manager of marketing research at Bronto software and can be contacted at

it is vital for online retailers to exploit peak trading times, now more than ever, by analysing trends and discovering the most successful way to increase site traffic. email marketing has been proven to radically increase traffic, if utilised in the right way to suit your business. email marketing stats across peak christmas trading times, including black friday and cyber Monday, can account for up to 40% of a retailer’s annual revenue, but other national holidays and times of year are just as important to keep revenue consistent throughout the year. for example; valentine’s day, easter, and events such as the 2014 fifa world cup. of course, different times of year will apply more significantly to different retailers. planning is key. get a structure in place that you can follow throughout the year, re-introducing popular promotions through email marketing campaigns. if a time of peak trade is coming up, start your campaign early and beat your competitors to the sale. Messaging is always going to be one of the most important aspects in getting your campaign right – don’t confuse promotions, and keep the content fresh and exciting. contemplate building your narrative for the day with multiple emails, but keep the mix fresh with design and content differences. if you don’t have the resources to make the emails radically different – make noticeable design changes and alter the subject line. this is a great alternative solution when it’s difficult to create new campaigns. email traffic over the christmas period tends to be at its lowest in the early morning and peaking around 7am, lunchtime, 3pm and 5-6pm. consider though, the email inbox will be at its fullest at these times, so subject lines around peak times must be very informational in order to stand out from others – perhaps announcing big sales and last chance to buy offers. give your business its best chance at flourishing in 2014 with a solid email marketing strategy. —

weB watch Making its online debut for 2014, is a new style platform for the Uk, with a focus on new brands and cutting-edge premium designers. comprising a shop, magazine and online community, the site has partnered with e-commerce sites including farfetch, and ln-cc to present the best these stores have to offer. hiphunters also publishes a digital magazine monthly with sector news and local street style. a mix of pinterest and tumblr, visitors to the site can share content through its community platform. —


CARNABY STREET LAUNCHES INTERACTIVE SOCIAL MEDIA PLATFORM Carnaby Street, home to some of the biggest names in fashion retail, has launched a fully integrated social media website, The online concept features fashion, lifestyle and food and includes a micro-platform for brands and independent shoppers. Consumers can engage in real-time interactions with Carnaby’s shops and restaurants while browsing the latest news and events, promotions, prize draws and store information. Over 200 brands, including Diesel, Eleven Paris and Lyle & Scott, are integrated into the website, with both brands and shoppers encouraged to connect with Carnaby by using #Carnaby and sharing information and comments on products, launches, new collections and experiential events. “Visitors are engaging with Carnaby shops, bars and restaurants directly and sharing their opinions and experiences with other consumers in real time,” says Clare Harris, head of communications at property company Shaftesbury. “ is championing user-generated content, enabling our tenants to engage directly with shoppers, introducing potential customers to their latest products.” A spokesperson for denim specialist Replay, whose flagship store is on Carnaby Street, adds, “ allows us to engage and encourage new conversations and build relationships with customers online, even before they have visited the Replay store.” —


MODA MENSWEAR BIRMINGHAM HALL 20, STAND MC 30 16.02. ďšť 18.02.2014

North of England & Scotland Rob Davies mobile: 07787-793863 email:

Midlands, Norfolk, Suffolk & North Wales Simon Beard mobile: 07932-172944 email:

South of England, South Wales & Channel Islands Mike Pincombe mobile: 07710-213092 email:


ReTAIL INSIDeR The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry. —

VIEWPOINT KARL ROSheR is a menswear buyer at Coes, Ipswich, and is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain

JOHN LEW IS SPONSOR S GL A SGOW 2 0 1 4 COM M ON W EA LT H GA M ES John Lewis is the “official department store provider” of the Glasgow 2014 Commonwealth Games – a partnership that will see the retailer supply bedding and white goods for the Athletes’ Village. Additionally, Glasgow 2014 merchandise is available to buy on and, later in the year, dedicated Glasgow 2014 shops will open within the retailer’s Scottish stores in Glasgow, Edinburgh and Aberdeen. The department store’s sponsorship of the Glasgow Games builds on its support of London 2012, where John Lewis’ sales of London 2012 official merchandise across the country exceeded expectations by 25 per cent, while sales of its own-brand celebratory range, Celebration of Britain, were 44 per cent higher than expected. —

IN BRIeF RENEWED OPTIMISM AMID INDEPENDENTS Nearly two thirds of independent retailers are “confident” or “very confident” about business in 2014, according to the latest sales monitor from British Independent Retailers Association (bira). Additionally, more than half of small shops taking part in the survey saw their best average growth in the last quarter of 2013 since 2010, and just over a third of respondents are now trading online, with those that are doing this deriving, on average, an eighth of their turnover from this channel. —

AUSSIE TAILOR TARGETS UK MARKET Australian online bespoke tailor InStitchu has set its sights on the UK market, a move it has supported with the opening of a UK office in South London. InStitchu works by allowing men to design a bespoke shirt or suit online, complete with customised options. Following a quick turnaround, it is then home delivered. Aspirations for the UK arm of the business include pop-up shops and potentially a bricks-and-mortar store going forward. —

So another season is over. The madness of a Christmas rush and the clearing of our “mistakes” in the January sale are behind us. Like so many of you we greet the New year with buying, and for me it always starts with a trip to Bread & Butter. However, in recent seasons I have felt slightly underwhelmed by the offering at Bread & Butter for the UK market. It appears to be more relevant to streetwear and Central European fashion. The offering this year was smaller than in previous years, with fewer exhibitors and a more “spacious” feel. The show appeared to be dominated by Scandinavian brands, with some British and German suppliers completing the line-up. The footwear offering was dominated by the casual and fashion trainer brands, with New Balance leading the way with its usual bold colours and designs. Similar products were also shown from the likes of Reebok Classics and Diadora. As for clothing, British heritage brands were as popular as ever, with a lot of buzz around a busy Barbour stand. The brand’s staple quilt design remains strong and it added depth with new fabrication. Fashion wax jackets look certain to be strong next autumn, too, for those looking to move on from quilts. Similarly, Lyle & Scott did what it does best with great knitwear, micro-cable knits and textured pieces in rich traditional colours. The label has also increased jersey options to include heavy marl-effect sweaters to sit alongside simple block colours. Generally speaking, leather coats made a resurgence, too, but it remains to be seen whether it will translate to the shop floor in the UK. Will I return next season? Almost certainly but, without the other shows running alongside Bread & Butter, I would have to question this myself. One thing that probably won’t be around next season – beards. The trend for heavy beards appears to be over, and I for one won’t be sad to see them go.


SHOPPED: heROeS how’s business been, and are you confident going forward into spring/summer? On the whole, business has improved gradually since we opened in September 2012. September to December 2013 were our busiest months, with considerable growth, so we are confident and more than excited going forward into spring/summer. — What new brands are you bringing that you hope will be attractive to your customers? We have a couple of new brands coming in to increase our apparel such as Italian labels HamakiHo and Gaudi. They will complement the brands that MIChAeL DAVISON, CO-FOUNDER, we have had great success with in a/w 13 such as HEROES, RICHMOND, V-Neck, a beautiful Italian knitwear company, and SURREY Grand Tour – English style but made in Italy. We are still finding our feet, so are continuing to seek out smaller or less mainstream brands that have something interesting or innovative to offer without going down the overly quirky route. — how is your a/w 14 buying going, are you changing anything? We are planning on reducing the footwear to allow space and money for the additional clothing brands we have taken on. This was something we always knew would be a welcomed eventuality. — What have consistently been your best-performing brands and product types? Boots have been our bread and butter in terms of footwear, in particular Red Wing and Wolverine. They are both niche labels but, after the first six months, they took off. In terms of clothing, Holland Esquire has again performed valiantly in Richmond, and looks to continue that way. —



SELFRIDGES LON DON PREVIEWS FESTIVAL OF IMAGINATION Festival of Imagination is the latest campaign launched by Selfridges to encourage people to explore the power of their imagination with the aid of some inspirational personalities. A line-up of “imagineers”, including Lucy Hawking, the novelist and daughter of scientist Stephen Hawking, will give over 100 talks, lectures and discussions in Imaginariums in Selfridges stores in London, Manchester and Birmingham. Festival of Imagination runs until 2 March and follows on from the retailer’s successful 2013 campaign No Noise, which celebrated silence, meditation and the “less is more” approach. —


Partners and life-long friends Nick Snell and Robin Norton launched Sevenwolves in 2011, conceived from a long-term desire to evolve their original concept of Dogfish – the store they launched in Norwich 1992 and Cambridge 1994 – and to expand beyond its streetwear-inspired brand mix to appeal to the ever-evolving taste of its audience who were looking for a more premium lifestyle way of dressing. But the Dogfish ethos has been retained with a relaxed and welcoming store. It became more and more obvious that there was a need to create an alternative environment to support the expanding movement towards the contemporary market, and it was clear from the start that the Sevenwolves formula appealed to a much broader demographic than Dogfish – literally an average age of 20-60 and up. There are white walls and old heavy metal warehouse rails, dedicated branded corners and a piece of luxury in the shape of a B&B Italia sofa. The changing rooms are spacious and discreet, but the key asset is selling a broad spectrum of brands but keeping it connective, realistic and with a nod and a wink to the Dogfish roots. —

NOTTINGHAM’S SHOPPING SCENE MARKED FOR REVAMP Nottingham City Council has signed a conditional development agreement with shopping centre operator Intu for a £190m redevelopment of its two shopping centres over the coming years. Plans include the regeneration of Nottingham’s Intu Broadmarsh shopping centre, car park and surrounding public realm improvements, as well as the current work underway to remodel and refurbish the Intu Victoria Centre ahead of a wider development and extension of the shopping centre. —

CrĂŠation Gross GmbH & Co. KG // HoubirgstraĂ&#x;e 7 // 91217 Hersbruck // Phone +44 (0) 207 937 58 63 E-Mail: //


BUSINeSS TALK MWB highlights some of the key issues affecting independent retailers as they move into 2014, with essential advice from four key industry experts. —







To what extent a worker on long-term sick leave, who has been unable to take holiday due to sickness, is entitled to carry forward accrued but untaken holiday to a subsequent leave year has been hotly debated in courts throughout europe. The European Working Time Directive (the Directive) governs this area of law and was implemented in the UK by way of the Working Time Regulations 1998 (WTR). Workers in the UK are entitled to 28 days annual leave per year: • 20 days “ordinary” annual leave (regulation 13, WTR), a right guaranteed by the Directive. • 8 days “additional” annual leave (regulation 13A, WTR), a right under domestic legislation only. It is established law that ordinary annual leave can be carried over by workers on long-term sick leave, but not whether the “additional” eight days could be carried over. The Employment Appeal Tribunal (EAT) gave its view in Sood Enterprises v Healy. Mr Healy was on sick leave from July 2010 until June 2011. He had taken 11 days’ holiday out of his 28-day entitlement in 2010 and had accrued 14 days’ holiday in 2011, when his employment ended. He received no payment in lieu of accrued holiday on termination of his employment and brought unpaid holiday claims. The employment tribunal relied on the EAT decision in NHS Leeds v Larner, in which the EAT found that a worker who was signed off sick for the entire leave year was presumed not to have been well enough to exercise what the ECJ has described as the “right to enjoy a period of relaxation and leisure” and could carry over the full 28-day holiday entitlement to the next leave year. The EAT, however, held instead that regulation 13A of the WTR did not allow for the carrying over or payment in lieu of the additional eight days’ entitlement. Therefore it was only up to 20 days ordinary annual leave that could be carried forward. This decision is good news for employers as it goes some way to reducing the potentially high cost of accrued holiday pay for departing staff after long periods of sick leave. The Coalition has indicated that when the WTR are amended in line with recent ECJ decisions on holiday and sickness, its intention is to enshrine the principle in Sood in the amended legislation, and this judgment should go some way to push government in the right direction. — Joanna Chatterton is a partner in the Fashion Law Group at Fox Williams LLP, specialising in employment law. Email or call 020 7614 2617.

e-commerce was certainly on the up in 2013 and, with the trend only expected to grow further during 2014, how can businesses ensure they are making the most of the opportunities open to them? DON’T IGNORE THE HIGH STREET Online retail may be seen as a replacement for the high street but, in 2014, e-commerce sites will need bricks-and-mortar stores more than ever. As consumers switch to shopping across multiple channels and blend online with offline shopping, e-commerce companies should be looking to establish a high-street presence, so customers can see products up close and try before they buy. OFFER A PERSONALISED SERVICE It’s becoming more important to treat customers as individuals, however a recent study by customer experience expert SDL suggested that 36 per cent of European online retailers have not invested in in-house personalisation services for customers. Retailers should offer customers tailored recommendations and send them targeted messages about deals that may interest them or gently remind them about abandoned shopping carts to show they are noticed and valued. CREATE A MOBILE-FRIENDLy SITE Today’s shoppers want to make purchases on the go, and are using mobile devices to access the web. Data from SplitPixel predicts that there will be an 84 per cent increase in mobile devices’ share of website hits between 2013 and 2014 while, by next year, more than half of people will have used mobile devices to carry out online purchases. Where possible, make sure you factor mobile shopping in your e-commerce strategy to avoid alienating this growing customer base. KEEP yOUR WEBSITE UPDATED Keeping website content regularly updated can be time consuming, but it is important to the success of an e-commerce store. Not only will it increase your website’s searchability, but updating with high-quality, appropriate video, image-led and written content will single you out as a knowledgeable resource and keep consumers coming back. TARGET ExISTING CUSTOMERS Data gathered by yotpo shows that new visitors spend an average of two minutes and 31 seconds on a site, compared with five minutes and 31 seconds for returning visitors. Returning visitors also look at more pages per visit on average and are more likely to make purchases, meaning campaigns that target existing customers can pay off – so don’t forget them or assume their continued loyalty. — James Hardy is head of Europe for >>>








British fashion brands have two advantages when it comes to the international fashion market. Firstly, the UK has a reputation for exciting, innovative designers, creating a global appetite for British fashion. Secondly, there is a strong infrastructure in Britain – both online and offline – to enable your wares to reach a worldwide market. The UK exports £3.9bn in clothing and footwear every year, and this number is growing all the time. If you are looking to grow and strengthen your fashion business, exporting to foreign markets could set you on the road to international success. Small clothing, footwear and accessories brands are well suited to online trading or e-commerce, allowing them to reach a worldwide customer base without having to pay large overheads and upfront costs. Choosing the right market for your goods is important, and it may be worth focusing on one country or a handful rather than spreading your resources too thinly, especially when you are new to exporting. Designers should consider the local culture when assessing the likely demand for their products. There has traditionally been a high demand in China for high-end fashion labels, but increasingly the trendy youth population is seeking unique, unbranded items to define their individuality. Establishing local partnerships can be key to gaining on-the-ground insight and, if you are not opting for a purely e-commerce model, choosing the right distributors may make or break your business in that country. you might like to start by creating an export plan and populate it with research on your target market, including language spoken, time zone, business etiquette, currency rate, inflation, transport links, levels of consumer spending and, most importantly, demand in that market for your product or service. An understanding of the necessary customs, finance and import/export regulations will also go a long way to facilitating distribution abroad, and help is at hand in the form of advisory bodies. UK Trade & Investment (UKTI) offers a range of services for UK exporters, including a flexible business tool called the Overseas Market Introduction Service (OMIS) and the Tradeshow Access Programme, which offers grants to enable firms to attend overseas trade fairs. The British Chambers of Commerce (BCC) also offers export training services. DHL, meanwhile, provides free support and guidance to small businesses looking to export. — Sue Perry-Whitehead, direct sales channel director, DHL

how do you value compensation to be paid to your agent on termination of the agency agreement? For some time, the position has been clear – compensation is the price that a notional third-party purchaser would pay for the agency if the agency had continued and was made available for sale on the open market. Usually, the amount in question is determined on the basis of expert evidence put forward by agent and principal. Indeed, this was the position in the latest reported court case concerning compensation. The experts in this case had agreed the direct costs of the agency. But there was a dispute as to the indirect costs to be deducted from the profits of the agency in order to ascertain the net income stream. The agent held a number of agencies with different principals. The agencies generated an aggregate annual commission of around £1m. Accordingly, the £60,000 annual commission that was achieved under the terminated agency agreement represented only a small proportion of the agent’s total commissions received each year. The agent’s expert claimed that the majority of the agent’s overheads should be regarded as fixed costs because they would continue to be required to support the agent’s other agencies, whether or not the agent still had the agency with the former principal. Unsurprisingly, the former principal’s expert disagreed. Instead, he proposed “absorption costing”, by which all overheads (including fixed costs) were to be apportioned to costs centres and income streams using pre-determined rates. The court preferred the evidence of the agent’s expert on fixed costs. However, what of the multiplier to be applied to the annual net income stream? The former principal argued that a multiplier of 2 times should be applied. In contrast the agent argued that a multiplier of 7 times should be applied. The judge, in a Solomonesque decision, determined that a multiplier of 4.5 times would be applied to the net income stream. While this was less than the amount the agent had sought, it is the case that it was still 250 per cent more than the principal had offered to pay and, with a certain degree of planning, the principal could possibly have avoided having to make a payment of this amount. To avoid paying compensation, the principal must provide in the agency agreement that on termination the agent will be entitled under the regulations to an indemnity and not compensation. If the payment of compensation or indemnity is to be avoided, then the principal must point to a material breach of the agency by the agent which justifies immediate termination. — Stephen Sidkin is a partner in Fox Williams LLP (,



NICK AShLey Private White V.C’s factory in Salford, Manchester, specialises in outerwear and has made for the likes of Burberry, Aquascutum, Nigel Cabourn and Baracuta. These days, though, private-label work is limited, as the focus is now on building the brand in its own right on an international scale – hence the debut at January’s Pitti Uomo. Tom Bottomley gets the lowdown from designer – and colourful character – Nick Ashley. — Tom Bottomley: how long have you been designing for Private White V.C now? Nick Ashley: I’ve been here three years and it’s taken that time to get to this stage where we’re showing at Pitti. It’s kind of like, “Welcome to the real world.” — TB: how did designing for the brand come about in the first place? NA: I had been using its factory for about 25 years. The factory has been called many things over the years, including four-letter words. Mike Stoll, whom I’ve been dealing with for many years, has been kicked around and treated rough for a long time and had finally had enough. He sold the business to James Eden, though he still works on the factory floor and handles the small private-label work under the original Cooper & Stollbrand name. James is the great grandson of Jack White (hence Private White V.C) who started the factory in 1919 after World War I. He’s put in a dynamic new energy, and a different approach towards business. He got me in to design the product and decided to do it vertically with an own label and selling it himself. The obvious thing with a vertically integrated set-up is to open your own stores, which we didn’t want to do because our strengths are designing and making.



— TB: But you still have the London shop? NA: We do have the shop on Lambs Conduit Street but, to be honest, we’re the most expensive product on the street because we’re the only ones who make in the UK. For some people we’re frighteningly expensive, and we probably need to relocate the brand to a location that fits the label better. There’s an awful lot of making up as we go along, and it’s difficult. We’re doing something that’s not really been done before because we’re an uber-luxury British factory. There’s only one place higher than us in terms of make, quality and price, and that’s Savile Row. Mayfair would certainly suit us. But we may just bypass the whole thing and go straight to Tokyo to open a shop. — TB: Why Tokyo? NA: It will have the footfall, and it will fly because the people there understand the product. They’ll save up for it and buy it because it enriches their soles. The Japanese understand a “high touch” product. We start with the sheep, we end up with the shop. It’s like an Italian restaurant – you go for fish in an Italian restaurant and start off with a live one in a tank. And we’re exactly the same with clothing – so we’re unique. It’s got to be expensive and exclusive, and we make no bones about it. It’s hard for British people to get a handle on that. In Britain we spend so much money on our houses and our kids’ education that we don’t have any disposable income left for spending on great things, unlike the Germans, Italians and Japanese – they’ve got their life structured in a different way. So we have to go with them, because they are the people that hanker after this type of product. — TB: What are your ambitions for the brand? NA: James is the last man standing. The factory in Manchester was there at the start of the industry, and when it’s gone, it’s gone. The whole of the Manchester ship canal – from Liverpool to Manchester – was built for the industry, but it’s all gone apart from this. I dream of getting a ship into Manchester, filling it with product and sailing it to China – and selling a whole load of clothes there. Then I can die a happy man. Out of the mill, out of the factory and even take the voyage – smoking Capstan Full Strength and drinking rum all the way! —

TB: How would you best describe your own background? NA: Well, my DNA is design and manufacturing. I was born into a family that had factories and workshops. When they were building up the Laura Ashley business, my parents put all their money into it, to the extent that we were brought up in tents – army style. My mother grew her own vegetables and we had a goat for milk. When they had spare change they rented a caravan, so we traded up trailer trash. School holidays were spent in the factory packing boxes, cleaning machines and so on. I really have done rags to riches. My parents’ business was started in 1953. My mother died in 1985. She died the same year the business went public and that was the end of it. They say the most important part of a brand is the emotion behind it and, when my mother died, the emotion had gone. Therefore, with Private White V.C, I quickly realised that it needed the emotion. These Manchester guys had to realise what they had, and before James came along they didn’t have a clue – they were used to being hammered to hell to produce cheaper product. They just had to realise they were operating a good factory, paying top wages for old skills and producing great product. It was a case of, “You’ve got to get into the luxury arena, boys.” Of course, it’s frightening when it’s not what you’re used to. TB: You were more used to designing for the luxury market during your time at Dunhill though, right? NA: You could say that, but I always designed premium stuff, including when I did my own label and I had my own shop in  Notting Hill.  I was at Dunhill for three years from around 2003 as head of casual menswear, Richard James was tailored clothes, Bill Amberg was leather goods and Tom Bolt was on watches. They called us the four musketeers and we had a blast. — TB: Where does your design inspiration come from? NA: My card says it all really – I’m a “people watcher”. I do my work walking around a show like Pitti when I go to get my lunch. That’s my research –

to see how people wear clothes. I’m an editor, I’m not designing; I’m re-designing and making it relevant to today’s people and how they live. — TB: What else drives you? NA: There’s a lot to do with socio-economic situations. We’ve got China coming up, but it’s an unsophisticated market at the moment so they’re going to walk straight past Private White V.C and buy Burberry. Burberry is an old brand, but it’s also made in China, so it is Chinese people buying Chinese goods, and that’s unsophisticated. But they will learn, and they will learn fast. Give them a couple of years and they’ll be buying our stuff. We have to position ourselves so that, in a few years time, we’re ready. — TB: What are the key pieces in the new a/w 14 collection? NA: I’d say the Twintrack jacket, so named because the zip can be fastened more tightly for summer and looser for winter to accommodate a chunky piece of knitwear. It comes in Brisbane Moss wax cotton. Also, the Jeepcoat in washable 3110, a military spec cotton drill, with raw state sheepskin, and a bomber jacket in Harris Tweed with sheepskin collar. It’s a hybrid mix of American military design, and hand-woven wool from the isle of Harris, so Anglo American mid-Atlantic chic if you want to put a fashion spin on it. — TB: Which are your best accounts in the UK? NA: We don’t have any at the moment; we sell through our own shop and online. We were at Pitti for wholesale reasons, of course, but were picking up more people from Scandinavia who really understand our stuff, and stockists from America. Germany is also a fantastic market for us. We had interest from the UK and wrote a few orders. Britain is a small place and, as I say, people spend all their money on houses and education. If you compare it even to Italy, there’s a vast difference. People dress beautifully, eat beautifully and have loads of sex. That’s their priority in life. Their economy is knackered, but they’re having a great time. Let’s all move to Italy! —

“I’ve been here three years and it’s taken that time to get to this stage where we’re showing at Pitti. It’s kind of like, ‘Welcome to the real world’”







fInnISH fIrST Born in Helsinki, Frenn is a label that MWB discovered at the recent edition of Seek, Berlin. Designed for the “urban working man”, the brand was the brainchild of Antti Laitinen and Jarkko Kallio, both of which have worked in the fashion and textile industry for a number of years. The label’s autumn/winter 2014 collection marries smart, clean lines with relaxed tailoring and luxe fabrics, including moleskin, bamboo, organic cottons and knitted merino wool. The manufacturing and production of the range is carried out throughout Europe including Estonia, with fabrics sourced from Italy, Portugal and Lithuania. “There’s nothing wrong with mass production when it’s done responsibly, with attention to quality,” says Laitinen. “The era of sweatshops are over; the future lies in a completely different direction. Dressing uniquely doesn’t necessarily mean one-off pieces.” With standalone stores in Finland and various stockists across Europe, the next market in the design duo’s sight is the UK, with a number of select doors planned for the new season. —


Product news


Peacocks and pea coats


Spiewak relaunches for 110th anniversary


London Collections: Men

Rounding up the key stories this month




Tuning up for the new season

The finest street style from Florence

Spring in your step Picks from Pitti Uomo

Profiling the classic American brand Cream of the British crop




Spotlighting style.

Inside menswear.

W E AR I NG T HE T RO U SE R S A/w 14 sees German trouser specialist MMX present dramatic colour and material mixes, with stylish cuts and slimline silhouettes featuring new interpretations of classic patterns and use of innovative finishes. Comprising three ranges: Casual, offering relaxed everyday looks; Collection, focusing on classic styles; and Style, reflecting urban trends, a/w 14 highlights include classic diamond patterns, washed wool fibres, leather piping on pocket openings, tweed flannel, cashmere and heavy cotton trousers. —

BARACUTA BLUE LABEL ESTABLISHED: 1937 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Baracuta is synonymous with the classic G9 Harrington jacket. — HISTORY: International distributor WP Lavori in Corso acquired the heritage brand in 2012, presenting its first collection together at Pitti Uomo for s/s 13. Baracuta offers the Ivory Label, which is its core collection, and designer range Blue Label by Jeff Griffin. In a bid to continue injecting innovation into Baracuta’s premium line, Blue Label, WP Lavori has called upon the skills of Jeff Griffin, appointing the designer creative director for a/w 14. Jeff Griffin’s own line, Griffin, was established in 1994 and he has since become renowned for creating ground-breaking garments and collaborating with key artists and brands worldwide, breaking down boundaries between urban and outdoor, fashion and art. With the partnership between Griffin and Baracuta cemented by a shared loved of British design and the championing of British manufacture and fabric production, the Blue Label a/w 14 line focuses on traditional themes commonly seen in British menswear. These themes have been reinterpreted, however, to create wearable yet contemporary and novel garments using fabrics from some of Britain’s finest mills including Harris Tweed from Scotland – one of Griffin’s favourite British mills – and Utexbel, one of the oldest military fabric producers in Europe. Key items include the Harris Tweed G9 utilitarian bomber-style jacket and the reversible camouflage G9, which plays on the classic Fraser tartan lining and offers two very different looks depending on which side the wearer chooses to use as the outer.

W I NT E R W E AR Established in 2005, Norwegian lifestyle brand Swims, which specialises in water-resistant products for men and women, has developed its a/w 14 offering to include new footwear styles and an outerwear collection. Swims’ winter footwear, which has previously consisted of a collection of waterproof and water-resistant boots for men and women, has, due to demand, developed to include winter footwear that can be worn in warmer regions. To accompany the footwear, the brand also has a new classic outerwear collection which, while highly technical and convenient for winter conditions, also incorporates fashion influences. —


on trend seasonal extras: ipad cases

DANISH DE LIGHTS key amid danish menswear label sand copenhagen’s a/w 14 offering is a variety of outerwear options, ranging from cashmere coats through to light down jackets, neo-dandy dinner jackets in printed velvet, and single or double breasted blazers. other highlights include waistcoats, tailormade flannel trousers, printed chinos and shirts through hand-knitted cardigans, jumpers and fine roll-necks. the brand’s a/w 14 colour palettes are shades of burgundy, Urban safari, which includes tones of tan and khaki, Monochrome, petrol blue and pop colours. —






1: CHAPMAN BAGS £37.50 01228 514514 2: SIMON CARTER price on request 020 8683 4475 3: ICON £10.42 020 3137 7217 4: CHERCHBI £120 07970 603278 5: GIBSON LONDON price on request 01405 782830

BranD to watch

chapMan bags

ESTABLISHED: 1984 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Bags created using quality materials, with designs inspired by the Lake District and an extensive archive of British countryside bags for game and fishing. — HISTORY: Founded by John Chapman over 20 years ago, the Made in Britain label is now looking to enter select independent retailers throughout the UK.

chapman has produced hand-crafted bags for travel, leisure, business and sporting activities for decades, and is one of the last remaining companies to make its bags exclusively in the uk. the company has, in fact, recently opened a new carlisle manufacturing facility, significantly enhancing its capacity and capabilities. this is the first phase of a programme that will see the brand invest in buildings, machinery, systems, skills and training supported by its shareholders, cumbria county council and the cumbria lep regional growth fund. taking inspiration from the lake district and its surrounding borders, the bags are designed to survive the rigours of life, using quality material such as solid brass hardware, naturally bonded layers of pure cotton drill and rubber, military grade 100 per cent cotton webbing and sam browne fastenings, all hand-crafted with double-stitched zips. its heritage status, meanwhile, is supported by an extensive archive of british countryside bags for game and fishing, and design blueprints that are still used to produce bags today. divided into collections for travel, city and country, highlights include weekend holdalls, laptop bags, totes, shopping bags, picnic bags and backpacks. the collection also includes wallets and wash bags.


JOULES £54.20 01858 435255


BARBOUR £84.45 0800 009 988

GIBSON £46 01405 782813

1 LIKE NO OTHER £120 020 7268 0020

GUIDE LONDON £52 020 7481 1111

SKOPES £42 0113 240 2211

SPrIng In YoUr STeP The defining piece in any gent’s wardrobe, the single-breasted blazer returns in relaxed cuts, complete with rounded shoulders and in a plethora of neutrals and blues. —

BOOMERANG £72 020 7603 4500

GABICCI £65 01442 233700


Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale


tuninG up For the new season the best independents always head to pitti uomo because they know there will always be something there to get them enthused for the new season ahead. tom Bottomley is no different, and here are six picks that did the job at the music-inspired rock me pitti 85th edition. —  ALT E A best known for its quality ties and scarves, altea has in recent years expanded its offer to a full collection of jackets, trousers, shirts and knitwear. it’s italian in its styling and fit – slimmer silhouettes and shorter jacket lengths – but there’s no reason why the look won’t work here. as yet, there are very few Uk customers for this great old brand’s clothing line. but it is a fourth-generation family business, and it surely won’t be long before retailers who appreciate such things will catch on and buy into it. as you would imagine, with its speciality fantastic scarves, the knitwear stands out, too. and some of the wool jackets, with bang on-trend jacquard weaves featuring heavily, are spot on, as is a double-breasted tweed coat that would have made any 40s newspaper reporter – or 70s football manager for that matter – proud. prices are fairly high end, with jackets retailing between £400 and £500. —  TO DD SNYDE R + C HAM PI O N there is plenty of heritage-inspired sportswear around for a/w 14, but perhaps none quite as good as this. anthem retailer simon spiteri knows a thing or two about authenticity, and he’s got on board to handle the Uk sales for it. some would say it’s what champion should have done a long time ago – once not only the Us king of track and field wear, supplying all the college teams since god knows when (the brand was founded in 1919), but also the king of the streets in the 80s with its reverse-weave sweats and tees. it’s time to get back to those glory years and make us old fans not quite so reliant on good vintage finds. “aside from a great designer in his own right, and the man who re-invented J.crew, todd snyder is a long-term fan of the champion brand, and he’s gone through all the archives and old catalogues to come up with up the real deal. champion also invented the hoody,” says spiteri. time to reclaim it, then. —  PR I VAT E W HI T E V. C this was among the best collections at pitti. it has a certain class about it – outerwear you want to put on and not take off. yes it’s pricey, but yes it’s worth it. from a striped reefer with a shawl collar that looks like something out of on the waterfront with Marlon brando to a modern take on a four-pocket motorcycle-style jacket with leather collar and a clever “twin-track” double-zip front, which basically means you can expand the front to get a big jumper underneath in the winter, or zip off the panel in summer when bigger layers are no longer required. it was a first-time showing at pitti for the brand, which makes its outerwear at its own factory in salford, Manchester. once it was all about private label, now it’s all about building the brand, and it’s definitely got what it takes in spades. it’s all designed by one nick ashley, too (see interview on page 20). —


 WO R K E R S M ARQU E anyone remember a brand called hicky from the early noughties? good stuff it was; probably among the best of the vintage-inspired collections that started to spring up around that time. the man behind it was one david gilston, or Jack david gilston to be more accurate, though he always liked to use his middle name. enough of that, but this is his work once again – his first foray back in to creating a brand for a long time, and a debut at pitti. gilston got stitched up with poor production management, which put paid to hicky, though he also used to design for brands such as levi’s and edwin. he then went to the states and designed for the likes of hollister, and has designed “everything from staircases to suitcases,” since. but this small collection of handmade leather and canvas bags is all about his personal design passion once again – and all made in england. —  HANSE N there’s a new scandinavian brand in town, and it goes by the name of hansen – after the designer, ase helena who, along with her co-founder and ceo, per chrois, brought a touch of danish style to proceedings at pitti. “the danes are known for great furniture design,” says hansen. “but this range really captures the way we like to dress.” dressed down, almost casual suiting, with the type of waistcoats you can easily wear with jeans or chinos, gives a taste of what it’s about. and they like a hat or two. the brand isn’t actually that new – now in its eighth season (third time at pitti, but this was a much stronger location than before) – but there aren’t many brits on the case yet, so it might be a good time for buyers to dip their toes. oh, and 14oz in berlin is a stockist, and karl-heinz Müller (bread & butter’s boss who owns the shop) certainly knows a thing or two about brands. —  E AST HAR BO U R SU R PLU S what can one say other than this is proper kit. for the uninitiated, it’s a korean brand from Mr han taemin, who also happens to have a shop called san francisco Market, selling the likes of engineered garments and haversack, so you get the drift. taemin started off as a designer in florence, before opening his own store in seoul, and this was east harbour surplus’ third outing at pitti. so far there is just one Uk account, but surely something is set to change. prices are not scary either, as they can be with aforementioned brands. everything is made in italy, and though the looks are vintage-inspired, it has a more european flavour to it as opposed to american, reinterpreting great looks in modern fabrics and fits. vintage military influences are evident, but there are also some fine casual tailoring – including an interesting four-piece (waistcoat and shirt as well) in an old regimental stripe. outerwear is a strong point, too, and this collection apparently had a strong reaction from buyers across the board. —


PeaCoCKS anD Pea CoaTS In terms of setting the precedence for street-style trends for the season ahead, Pitti Uomo is the place to draw inspiration, admire and watch as the peacocks of the fortezza da Basso do what they do best. MWB was on hand to capture the sartorial choices of the gents of florence. —

“High meets low this season as beanies were teamed with slick tailored suits, with neon, unsurprisingly, making the most impact visually”


“Double-breasted styles returned to the spotlight in both suit jackets and heavyweight wool overcoats in a series of tone-on-tone tailoring as well as braver Prince of Wales checks”



T: 020 74 86 8916



SPIeWaK reLaUnCHeS for 110TH annIverSarY It’s one of those old american brands that has stood the test of time and supplied outerwear for the military, fire service and police force for decades. now in its 110th anniversary year, and under new Italian ownership for the lifestyle offer, it relaunched at Pitti with a limited-edition line under the original golden fleece label, writes Tom Bottomley. —

Under the name of golden fleece I Spiewak & Sons, a brand was born in new York in 1904. fast forward 110 years, and the “lifestyle” arm of the business is now Italian-owned by a company called g&g, while the uniforms business is still american-owned. A Pitti relaunch beckoned, with a standalone stand and limited-edition pieces using the original Golden Fleece branding. Kevin Stone, who is handling sales for the Golden Fleece line with Index-London, as well as sales for the main line Spiewak collection, says, “We’ve got the classic MA-1 jacket that is now

relaunched. They were so lucky that they found a 40-year old deadstock fabric in a warehouse in the US. It’s a heavyweight cotton that has been Tefloncoated. It’s an archive piece, but they’ve given it a modern sensibility. It’s got “onion bag” quilting inside.” The N3-B parka is another classic that’s been reinvented for the limited-edition Golden Fleece line, again in the deadstock fabric as well as in authentic “flight satin” fabric. Details include leather arrowheads to reinforce the pockets, and there’s a well-executed cotton drill US Navy deck

jacket, as well as a heavy melton wool pea coat that looks like the fit has been tweaked for the 21st century. It’s all made in the US. Giving the capsule collection a fashion edge, there’s also a nylon ripstop “woodland” camouflage parka and another MA-1 in the camo, too. Of course, while the limited-edition Golden Fleece line is the attention grabber, it’s the Spiewak main line that will be the real sales driver. And there’s some great new additions in the collection, aside from the aforementioned classics such as the N3-B – albeit without the extra special >>>



touches of the limited-edition collection. however, you do get the choice of having the hood trimmed with real cayote fur (as per the original), fake fur or even no fur at all. as one of the official manufacturers for the Us air force, spiewak first developed the n3-b parka circa 1950. “there are also a lot of technical pieces in the main line,” says stone. “and a great melton wool overshirt with a nylon pocket and reinforced sleeves that i think will be a good seller. there are some more commercial fashion pieces as well, of course, and a full womenswear offer.” around 30 accounts are sought in the Uk for the first season with the main line, whereas the golden fleece line will only sit in around 10 of the top-tier accounts. the golden fleece Ma-1 in the deadstock fabric will retail at £389, whereas the main line Ma-1 will be more like £206 retail – to give an indication of price structure. the man brought in as “creative director at large” to put together the golden fleece line is one Maurizio donadi, a man with an interesting past and who was on hand to give his account of things at bread & butter berlin. donadi is an italian who expanded the benetton retail chain in america and the caribbean throughout the 80s, when the brand was red hot, before settling in Miami and opening a vintage shop called outlander in 1992. that sealed his interest in great old pieces. he says, “it was kind of like the time of the relaunch of Miami, because before that it was quite a sleepy town. i had designers and brand people from the likes of levi’s, diesel and replay coming in the shop buying vintage levi’s jeans, leather jackets and so on. we went from being a second-hand shop to a collector’s store. we specialised in getting the best.” it wasn’t long before donadi got the call from

diesel to say they were “coming to america” and opening a small office in new york that they wanted him to run. he took the opportunity and became the brand’s head of retail for five years. then armani called, and he spent six and a half years there in a creative role to “travel the world and bring in new retail ideas and design inspiration.” nice work if you get it. following armani, donadi worked for ralph lauren’s top-end rrl line as senior vice president – overseeing the entire rll brand. “it was about producing the most beautiful clothes from american heritage,” he says. an opportunity came up to lead the premium division of levi’s – with levi’s vintage clothing and Made & crafted. this is all before setting up his own consultancy business in los angeles and landing the role of creative director for spiewak – something he’s certainly well primed for. “i’m not a designer,” he says. “i’m probably the last qualified person to work on design. but i can read the numbers, and i think i have a pretty good idea of what the aesthetic of a brand is.” on spiewak, he says, “i love the brand. it’s interesting and part of american history. it’s utilitarian and not fashion. it’s useful and functional. you have certain elements such as golden fleece that reflect the interest in the brand’s history. then you have the main spiewak section, which is about the future. what is intriguing in the way we have worked together with the spiewak team. it’s very much been about saying, ‘let’s look at tomorrow with knowledge of yesterday,’ instead of ‘let’s do another heritage brand and let’s do another replica.’ that’s just something that’s been done already. so we devoted an element of golden fleece to being close to heritage with a modern take on it. More

of a city fit than a war fit, for instance.” travelling is a big inspiration for donadi – not surprising considering the amount he’s done. so he looks at performance, practicality and functionality as key elements, as well as weight and warmth. “this is what we have looked at for spiewak,” he says. “we’re stating the obvious, ie ‘this is what we need today.’” it reflects back to the origins of the brand, which donadi says was started “to make the life of workmen easier.” protection from weather conditions was a key factor of course. “with respect for the past we need to look at the future,” says donadi. spiewak’s history is indeed equalling intriguing. it started with a journey from warsaw to brooklyn, new york, by one polish immigrant and entrepreneur by the name of isaac spiewak. in 1904 his handcrafted sheepskin vests sold to williamsburg waterfront dock workers. and that became the foundation of a family business. spiewak soon began creating the iconic military uniforms, and produced countless during world war i, and even more during world war ii. flight jackets were a speciality, as were pea coats for the navy. spiewak’s golden fleece logo was a dependable sight on outerwear. partnership with the armed forces was particularly prevalent during the korean war in the 50s – a time that brought about the classics such as the Ma-1 flying jacket, n3-b snorkel parka and shorter n2-b style. donadi has been given the opportunity to “look at the brand as a whole.” not only the apparel, but the packaging and the “experience” of the brand. “it’s something i’m very interested in,” he says. donadi specifically went out to find the deadstock fabric for the golden fleece limited-edition line. “we found it in a warehouse in la. there was a few thousand yards of this beautiful fabric. it’s limited-edition by default; it’s not really a marketing story.” when he talks about golden fleece, he talks of it as “more for the purists.” interestingly he also sees no reason why the higher end line can’t be developed and reach strong sales going forward, too. with more global interest in general in premium product – which obviously comes at a price – he may well have a point.

Showing at Moda Footwear Stand R11, NEC Birmingham, 16-18 February 2014


 COMMON Setting the scene with UV lights and a stark-white show space, Common unveiled a futuristic a/w 14 offer at this season’s London Collections: Men. Its range was inspired by Andrew Niccol’s 1997 sci-fi film, Gattaca. Featuring signature knitted collars, white shirts with zip detailing and a combination of metallic and matt fabrics, it married science fiction with Hollywood noir. Key pieces included a laser-red technical down jacket, flecked wool suits and detailed overcoats. Comprising reds and greens, the brand’s colour palette was borrowed, in part, from the work of German digital artist Gerhard Mantz.

LonDon CoLLeCTIonS: Men

one of the key events in the menswear buying calendar, the London showcase brought together the best in British design this season. —

 LO U DALTO N Taking inspiration from Dorothea Lange’s bleak, depression-era photographs, British designer Lou Dalton described her a/w 14 muse as a “raw young farm hand.” The brand’s latest collection was an intensely personal affair, informed by Dalton’s own working class roots. Fresh-faced models took to the runway in modern workwear with military touches. Mismatched silhouettes figured heavily, while chord, shearling, denim and Fair Isle knits were key. Comprising green-browns, faded blues and pinks shot with red, the colour palette was suitably understated. A green chord shirt and trouser combination, a belted pea coat and a camouflage-print shirt were among the collection’s stand-out pieces.


 O LI VE R SPE NC E R Oliver Spencer’s a/w 14 range was unveiled at the Sorting Office, a cavernous, atmospherically lit space wholly in keeping with his luxury urban aesthetic. Blur bassist Alex James took to the catwalk, while Specials drummer John Bradbury played a live set to accompany the show. The cross-generational collection was inspired by urban renewal and the mechanical, modular designs of leading Purist Le Corbusier. Reworked fabrications were one of many nods to his ground-breaking creations. Ultimately, traditional tailoring met the clean architectural lines of the Unite d’Habitation, creating a modern fit for a/w 14.



Baartmans and Siegel showcased its a/w 14 collection to the strains of orchestral music, while smoke and eerie blue light served to evoke the challenging arctic landscapes by which the brand was inspired. As ever, outerwear was key, and the show saw Baartmans and Siegel unveil its exclusive collaboration with Penfield. Developed for “life in the open”, the label’s three refined performance coats featured sharp tailoring, luxurious detailing, rubber hardware and a soft-shell outer layer. The design duo’s preoccupation with cold climates was reflected in a colour palette of tonal navy and classic blue. Down feather bomber jackets, streamlined windbreakers and enhanced parkas were inspired by its key themes – “focused pursuit” and “action”.

Christopher Raeburn showcased his arctic-inspired a/w 14 collection at The Victoria House, which echoed with the sounds of cracking ice, howling wind and boots on snow. The rising star’s offer had a political agenda, exploring issues of sustainability, shelter and protection. As ever, vintage militarywear had been thoughtfully recycled, while lightweight parkas were crafted from German military sleeping bags, and the heavy sheepskin of recycled Siberian officers coats was reminiscent of polar bear fur. Layers of padding, neoprene-like finishes and drawstring detailing reflected Raeburn’s preoccupation with endangered arctic landscapes. The bleak colour palette comprised greys, olive greens and storm blues, while heavy duty boots finished each look.

Visit us at Moda, Stand MC16

FEBRUARY 2014 | GENT | MODA | 39

MoDa aUTUMn/WInTer 2014 16-18 february, neC Birmingham —

gIBSon LonDon  STanD Mf39


Moda Lifestyle


Moda Urban Life


Moda footwear




Moda Information

Casual and contemporary mainstream menswear


Moda Tailoring


Moda Shirts & Trousers


Moda accessories

The best in urban, sports, surf and denim

A tailored approach to city dressing

Continuing its reign as the largest footwear show in the UK

Dressing from top to bottom with the best in shirting and trousers Essential point-of-sale extras and add-ons

Contemporary and directional apparel and footwear The who, what and when from this month’s show

  



 

        

Quality Luxury Heritage Made in Scotland

See us at Moda - Stand MD31 T: 01450 363100 E:


MoDa LIfeSTYLe for the more casual shopper, Moda gent offers a host of brands across forward and short order stock, including denim, knitwear and outerwear categories. —

fYnCH HaTTon  STanD Mf20

ragIng BULL  STanD Mf31

Brax  STanD Me20

CaMeL aCTIve  STanD Me10

CreW CLoTHIng  STanD Mg29

ragIng BULL With rugby legend and founder of Raging Bull Phil Vickery on hand to talk through the brand’s latest collection, buyers and rugby fans alike will be keen to see what a/w 14 has in store. Spilt into two themes, the collection includes Away Day Champion, which comprises button-down collar shirts layered with Fair Isle sweaters and coloured chinos, and Gentleman and Player, a style based on garments such as the herringbone jacket and quarter zip knitwear. fYnCH HaTTon The new season sees the expansion of a comprehensive trouser collection for Fynch Hatton, designed to complement the label’s shirting and knitwear offer. The cornerstone remains with good quality in the areas of knitwear and shirts. Besides the knitwear classics, structures and fancy plains promise to enhance the range and stimulate interest. Brax Great Britain is the inspiration behind a/w 14 at Brax, with autumnal hunting scenes influencing the use of waxed outdoor, tweed, flannel and twin-sided fabrics. Outerwear continues to strengthen, with highlights including the knitted jackets with quilted fronts and sleeves. Denim is one of the most central themes in this collection. The look is renewed above all by technical innovations including laser finish, laser prints, colour coatings and vintage. CreW CLoTHIng Making its Moda Gent debut, Crew Clothing is crafted to create a rugged and authentic, coast-meets-country look. A fresh colour palette features birch green, washed red, fig and ochre, while nauticalinspired designs include fisherman’s ribbed crew-neck jumpers, tweed blazers and a heritage polo, which features spray and sail appliques. —


DUKe  STanD Me31

faraH 1920  STanD Mf41

gLenBrae  STanD MC37

CaMeL aCTIve The new season is all about minimalism for German lifestyle label Camel Active. Treatments such as garment dying or garment washing create more subtle, worn-look effects. Key styles on the other hand, such as deliberately shorter jackets and longer parkas in robust cotton fabrics, feature pocket facings and applications. The use of material blends or leather trimmings underscores the brand’s core. faraH 1920 Drawing inspiration from folkloric craftsmanship of Balkan and South-American origin, Farah 1920 sees an emphasis towards smarter, warmer and more traditional fabrics including herringbone twill and wool Melton, which sit alongside a range of distinct Ikat weaves and tribal jacquards. DUKe Young fashion label Duke returns to Moda Gent with its broad offer of basic jeans, tops, belts, beanies and accessories. The brand’s sub-label, D555, is on hand to fly the flag for home-grown British design, with everything conceived and developed at the label’s HQ in Nottingham. Classics such as parkas and baseball jackets are key, while newness comes from the likes of drop-crotch joggers and innovative dying techniques. gLenBrae After successfully launching its range of lambswool and merino garments for s/s 14, Glenbrae is looking to drive its presence in the UK independent retail market further for the new season. New additions see a range of designs in finer merino, ideal for layering and wearing with tailored jackets, while the label’s core collection of knitwear continues to be offered in a rainbow palette including purples, blues, greens, reds and creams. —


MoDa TaILorIng Moda gent offers a raft of tailoring specialists this autumn/winter 2014, with a number of returning favourites alongside new names to discover. —

DIeLMar  STanD MC61

DIgeL  STanD MC30

gIBSon LonDon  STanD Mf39

SKoPeS  STanD MC41

DIgeL The trend for suits in Digel’s latest showcase remains figure-hugging silhouettes with modern, shortened jacket lengths and narrow trousers. Detail is key with contrasting decorative stitching, lapel pins and luxe linings. In terms of prints, the geometric micro and mini patterns are highlights, and can be seen on inside collars and pocket linings. DIeLMar Making its Moda Gent debut this season, premium label Dielmar returns to the golden age of the 60s with its autumn/winter 2014 offering. Inspired by the movie The Thomas Crown Affair, the collection mixes modern, innovative fabrics with the styling of the star of the movie, Steve McQueen. SKoPeS Tailoring specialist Skopes returns to the halls of Moda Gent, presenting a comprehensive collection of suits, overcoats, sports jackets and classic blazers. A key style in the collection is the navy Egan suit in navy, comprising a slim-tailored fit, slanted flap pockets, centre vent, contrast lining and slanted flap pockets. gIBSon LonDon As part of the show’s latest initiative, Sunday Best – a concept designed to find and award the best-dressed man at Moda Gent – British label Gibson London is offering the winner a bespoke tailormade suit. In terms of autumn/winter 2014, the brand is set to offer up and collection of petrol, blue and grey designs, with splashes of mustard, rust and lilac coming through in the finer details. —


BerTonI  STanD Mg23

reMUS UoMo  STanD Mf38

BenvenUTo  STanD Mg21

Magee  STanD MC21

reMUS UoMo Remus Uomo continues to offer sharp styling, fine detailing and exceptional quality this season. With a plethora of new fabrics, textures and colours, the brand offers a collection of both everyday causal and smarter-affair alternatives. BerTonI Another name making its debut at the show is Bertoni, which comes under the helm of London agency Double H. The Danish label puts its focus on wool for the new season, drawing inspiration from the richness of the Scottish Highlands to the grays of Northern Europe’s coastlines. Expect key, tailored lines in premium wool blends such as simple car coats with contrasting collars or in modern salt-and-pepper melange check. BenvenUTo Classic designs have been reinterpreted for autumn/winter 2014, and buyers can expect a host of new features from the German label at the forthcoming Moda Gent, including patch pockets, peaked lapels and contrast buttons. The collection also offers versatile blazers, coats and trousers in a range of materials. Its shirts are finished with woven ribbons, contrast seams and elegant buttons. Magee Recognising the growing need for casual wardrobe additions, Magee has taken its range of wool and poly-wool suits in urban colourations and interesting weaves and moved it out of the office and onto the more casual-dressed man. The brand’s range of Donegal tweeds, retro wool checks and robust country check suits, for example, bridge the gap between sartorial and relaxed dressing. —


MoDa SHIrTS & TroUSerS from top to bottom, this season welcomes the very best in the shirting and trouser sector to showcase what’s on offer this autumn/winter 2014. —

MeYer  STanD Me18

oLYMP  STanD MD18

BrUHL  STanD Mf18

HaTTrIC  STanD MD21

SeIDenSTICKer  STanD MC49

oLYMP Colour is a definite focus across German label Olymp’s casual and business shirting categories, with a palette comprising cognac reds, emerald tones, petrol blue, mustard and violet shades. Decorative detailing, however, is more discrete than in previous seasons, with subtle prints on collars and inside cuffs. BrUHL Aside from its signature range of comfort and classic trouser styles, Moda favourite Bruhl updates its corduroy segment in a range of trend-conscious colours with washed-out effects. Fabric qualities in this series include finely patterned herringbone and robust Donegal. MeYer Autumn/winter 2014 sees German label Meyer retain its slim silhouettes of last season, with highlights including the detailed jean and the modern pocket chinos – the Chicago style with diagonal front pocket and quilted back pocket is a hero piece. HaTTrIC Trouser specialist Hattric draws its inspiration from Dublin, with a colour palette inspired by the naturalness, rusticness and traditional influences of the Irish city. With an obvious turn to shades of green, including moss and cedar, subtle colours can also be found in cognac and rust. —


DoUBLe TWo  STanD MC19

eTerna  STanD Me11

CaSaMoDa  STanD MD21

SeIDenSTICKer One of the leading names in shirts, Seidensticker returns to Moda Gent this season with a collection comprising three segments: Splendesto offers a wide range of colours and prints, button-down double collars, smaller Kent collars without front pockets and AMF stitching; Schwarze Rose sees the use of floral, baroque and camouflage prints; and Uno City is a smarter alternative in cadet stripes and small repeat checks. DoUBLe TWo The new season heralds the introduction of a new improved shirt fit for British label Double Two, while its premium sub-line, Paradigm, continues to present its non-iron micro-twill fabrics, which are soft to the touch, breathable and durable. Sister brand to Double Two, Bar Harbour, meanwhile, will see the launch of its updated branding with a vintage typewriter print. eTerna Shirt specialist Eterna presents its new collection, which is structured to coincide with three delivery dates across July, August and September. Each drop will feature Comfort Fit, Modern Fit and Slim Fit styles, while more premium quality fabrics, decorative fabrics and shorter collar lengths characterise the look and feel of the entire collection. CaSaMoDa Casamoda turns its attention to improving the quality of its product this season and, alongside its signature intricate detailing and finishes, the brand welcomes fabrics such as denim, melange and thermal flannels, as well as printed cords and sporty minimal prints. —

     

See us at Moda Stand MC49 Brian Winterbourne UK and Ireland Sales Tel/Fax: 01572 723931 Mobile: 07889 305 479


MoDa aCCeSSorIeS finishing touches such as bags, ties, wallets and leather goods are perfect for point-of-sale purchases. Moda offers up some of the best in the sector. —

gIBSon LonDon  STanD Mf39

KnIgHTSBrIDge  STanDS Se18 & Me28

TrIBe  STanD MD68

BLaDen  STanD MC10

joCKeY  STanD MC16

KnIgHTSBrIDge Split between contemporary zone Select and the more mainstream Moda Gent, British accessory label Knightsbridge returns to the show with a strong collection of ties, scarves, bow ties and pocket squares. A key style for the new season is the City Slicker silk scarf, which features a rich autumnal colour palette and on-trend paisley print. gIBSon LonDon Tailoring label Gibson London presents its debut accessory collection for men, including bonded Tweed style holdalls designed for long weekends, with matching tablet holder and leather trim. Both feature gold tone hardware and are branded with a Gibson London leather plaque – all made in England, might we add, by Chapman Bags. TrIBe Established in 2013, Tribe is a quirky addition to Moda Gent’s accessory offer. Offering eco-friendly eyewear, watches and wallets, each product is handmade using the highest quality sustainably sourced wood, with each design featuring unique natural colours and markings. BLaDen Menswear label Bladen returns to the show with its mainline collection of tailored jackets, moleskin trousers and cloth backed waistcoats. Newness, however, comes with the introduction of a new range of ties and luggage to enhance the total collection, featuring quirky fox and bird embroidered motifs. joCKeY Leading men’s underwear label Jockey launches yet another versatile a/w collection, comprising its signature underwear and loungewear in its iconic masculine style. Themes in the new range include Colorado Highlands, Aspen Lodge and Ski Village, using a classic colour palette of navy, frost white and red, as well as injections of light blue and plum. —


Moda Urban liFE a new addition to the Moda exhibition, Urban life brings together the best in surf, sports, denim and urban menswear. —

lindbErgh  stand ME48

id dEniM  stand ME47

blEnd  stand MF69

M.o.d.  stand ME68

björn borg  stand ME60

lindbErgh Another Scandinavian label to hit Moda, Lindbergh’s a/w 14 collection is potentially its strongest to date. With the expansion of the label’s denim line, Blue, the brand is looking to further cement its presence in the UK market for the new season. Other lines include Black, a preppy and classically formal collection, and White, which is a clean, core range of staples across shirts, suits, jackets and knits. blEnd Danish label Blend presents its latest development for a/w 14 – Casual Friday – which is a slightly more grown-up line for the Blend man, offering six collections annually in an array of mix and match separates. Designed to take the wearer from work to the bar, the range centres around the art of layering and accessorising for a versatile wardrobe. id dEniM A new name to the halls of Moda, ID Denim is a Scandinavian lifestyle label spanning denim, causal and streetwear. Key pieces include heavyweight quilted jackets and gilets, graphic tees and on-trend Ikat prints. A sub-line of ID Denim is its Vintage category, catering for the slightly older consumer, with a variety of denim washes, fits and cuts. björn borg A key component for this season’s collection from Swedish label Björn Borg is the use of reflective material, found across sports apparel, bags and footwear. Other key elements are interpretations of traditional fashion statements such as camouflage, quilting and leopard print, all executed in Björn Borg’s signature full-impact way. Important colours for this season are shades of grey, black, tonal blues, burgundy, army green, pink and orange. —


garcia  stand ME66

shinE original  stand ME48

M.o.d Following its successful sell-through of its outerwear category last season, M.O.D has expanded its jacket and coat offer for a/w 14. Coated denims are key, while newness comes in the form of panels, where different panels are stitched together from different denims. After washing, it gives different effects on each panel. garcia Denim specialist Garcia continues its expansion into a complete lifestyle collection for a/w 14. The Italian label, currently distributed by Double H Agency, blends the signature European use of colour with more pared-down styling suitable for the UK market. The new line is a comprehensive offer, comprising jeans, hoodies, sweats, shirts, T-shirts and accessories. shinE original Designed for the 15-40 year old market, Shine Original caters for both father and son. Specialising in jeans, the a/w 14 collection draws inspiration from rock ’n’ roll and surf culture and, while the core of the collection focuses on denim, there are wardrobe additions in outerwear, sweatshirts and non-denim pants, with silhouettes remaining slim-fitted throughout. —


Garments that won’t hang about. The steamer that will.

For more information Tel: 020 8417 0660


Moda FootWEar as the Uk’s largest footwear exhibition, Moda Footwear continues to welcome a raft of established and emerging talent, spanning contemporary, comfort and casual labels. new names to the mix include iconic british label dr Martens, whilst brands such as sorel, base london and Fish n chips are returning favourites. —

sorEl  stand Q21

Fish n chips  stand W4

basE  stand W4

ikon  stand X5

Front  stand t5

lUis gonzalo  stand p34

lotUs  stand p25


caMpobEllo  stand s29

aiglE  stand V4

MUstang  stand V11

hEy dUdE  stand W5

bogs  stand o21

pod  stand X9

dr MartEns  stand y5

Xti  stand V19


sElEct contemporary and urban zone select welcomes a whole host of names to its latest edition, including some of the best names in british design, as well a plethora of international brands. —  W E E K E ND O F F E NDE R Casual culture and influential sub-cultures are the inspiration behind Weekend Offender’s a/w 14 offering. The two collections, Category A and Mainline, both feature parkas and crisp shirting, with textured knitwear also key. Technical fleece garments featuring contrast nylon pockets are prominent, as is a taped seam kagoule and the classic snorkel parka. Fabrics include paisley cotton shirting and a woven repeat W fabric for shirting and trims. Refreshed branding offers the new colours of navy and cream for labelling. Stand SE36 —

 PE T E R W E RT H Established in 1975, eponymous London label Peter Werth is known for its long-sleeved, knitted polo shirts, and this season is no different. Inspired by four decades of knitwear manufacturing – in Leicester and Nottingham – the a/w 14 collection features lambswool tipped, long-sleeved, knitted polo shirts in burgundy, canary yellow, navy and grey. Stand SE26 —


 J O U LE S Following its successful footwear debut at Moda last season, British label Joules has moved into contemporary zone Select for a/w 14. There are new additions to its wellington category, and accessories are also key, comprising scarves, leather wallets and tablet cases, while the new season welcomes the collaboration with another British favourite, Harris Tweed. Stand SE21 —

Guide London ushers in a/w 14 with a more relaxed collection, inspired by Teddy Boy and Mod styling. Notch lapel jackets, double-breasted military coats, high-collared polo shirts and dogtooth jacquard cardigans are among its key pieces. The brand’s focus has shifted from intricate details to fabric quality and structure; its sub-range features playful prints in bright colours, while its popular socks are available in new patterns and hues. It even plans to introduce a line of leather belts and wallets. Stand SE22 / SE20 — >>>


 BO O M E R ANG Swedish label Boomerang returns to Select for a/w 14 following a successful twelve months in the UK market. The new collection sees a continuation of the brand’s outdoors-inspired design ethos, where functionality and versatility are teamed with on-trend elements. Inspiration is taken from an urban sports look, with hi-tops, metallic padded outerwear and polo-necks featuring throughout. Stand SE06 —

 GABI C C I VI NTAGE Gabicci Vintage continues to take inspiration from its archive collections. Buyers can expect tapestry, Ikat-inspired jacquards and prints juxtaposed with sleek silhouettes of the 50s. Clean, crisp wool-blend jackets and fine knits contrast with soft lambswool, while neatly collared polos and cardigans work with parkas and bomber jackets. Smarter looks are shown in three-piece suits and city woven shirts – the iconic gold G badge appearing throughout. Stand SE26 —

 ANE R K J E NDT Young brand Anerkjendt continues to experiment with fashion and trends this season. Edgy, humorous and easy to wear, its a/w 14 collection has been designed with the theme “rock’n’roll meets baseball meets space and jungle” in mind. Buyers can expect a mixture of denims, nylons, natural fabrics and playful prints. Classic shapes are key, while street elements and sporty details lend each design a fashion-forward edge. Stand SE38 —

 PAR ADIGM A For a/w 14, footwear label Paradigma has developed a collection focused primarily on must-have wardrobe staples, with newness coming from the introduction of tracks and textures not seen from the brand before. With a wide range of contemporary designs, the collection is designed for an “active and modern man”, with Chelsea boots, brogues and tassel loafers being highlights of the new season. Stand SE05 —

 PANT HE R E LL A For a/w 14, sock brand Pantherella’s Business Classics collection for the well-heeled gent focuses on yarns and textures and includes a Vintage range, which sees the company return to its archives for traditional styling and colours that epitomise British Heritage. The Business Moderns range, meanwhile, takes inspiration from modern graphics including polka dots, stripes, checks, hounds tooth and geometric prints in merino wool yarns. Stand SE33 —


 M AR SHALL ART I ST An exciting new name to the Select line-up, Marshall Artist presents its a/w 14 collection, described as “an exploration into modern British tailoring”. The new season sees the brand offer an impressive array of technically advanced fabrications including compact cotton/polyamide, which when overdyed at a specific temperature shrinks to create a worn-in vintage look. Stand SE38 —

 BR I T I SH BE LT C O M PANY Handcrafted in England, leather goods label British Belt Company is part of Arnold Wills & Co Ltd – a family owned manufacturer located in Rutland, England’s smallest county no less. Carrying through a core collection of leather staples each season, the brand will present a range of belts, wallets, washbags and holdalls among other products, some including waxed canvas fabric from renowned wax manufacturer Halley Stevensons. Stand SE29 —


 BARBOU R This season, iconic brand Barbour unveils an expanded range of footwear, inspired by its own country heritage. Focusing on comfort, practicality and tradition, its Classic line features smart Derby brogues and a new, tartan trim Monty slipper. The Lifestyle collection is more casual, comprising relaxed brogues, leather chukka boots and desert boots in leather and wax combinations. Highlights from its Heritage range include the chocolate brown Hector chukka boot, and the Falstaff 2 brogue, complete with off-white cup soles. Stand SE03 —

Made in England, Peregrine’s a/w collection is influenced by folklore this season. Highlights include the introduction of new British canvas and tweed fabrics and contrasting and tactile textures. Collection colours remain rich and complementary for a/w 14, with key shades including warm khaki, gun metal and ochre. English-made knitwear, including Fair Isle and chevron knits, offer unique and bold attention to detail, with key knitwear pieces including a patchwork Aran jumper. Stand SE39 —

FEBRUARY 2014 | GENT | MODA | 62

MorE catWalks. MorE contEnt. MorE inspiration. Make sure you’ve registered for the event of the season as Moda prepares for even more live debates, fresh new brands, seminars to inspire and catwalks providing the best overview of this season’s hottest trends.

don’t Miss thE big liVE dEbatEs

tWo catWalk thEatrEs

Mon 17 Feb Hall 20 12:00 – Big Live Menswear Debate Hall 20 15:00 – Big Live Footwear Debate

Moda has two catwalk theatres, offering daily inspiration for every sector, and this season we’re bringing you closer to the action! —

Moda’s Big Live Debate returns this season bigger and better with the introduction of a brand new Footwear Debate. Moda’s very own portfolio director, Nick Cook, will lead the panel of experts, so join in with the discussions that could affect your business, or just take a seat and listen to your peers offering an insight to current hot topics from within your sector. The womenswear and lingerie sectors will also host debates in Hall 17 on the same day at 10.45 and 13.00 respectively. —

party at thE pUnchboWl Join us on Monday 17 February at the Punchbowl in nearby Lapworth – a perfect opportunity for brands and buyers to mix in a relaxed setting.

The Fashion Association of Britain (FAB) will once again host its Fab Lounge in Moda Woman. FAB will also lead a seminar on the latest tool to galvanise the high street and marry e-commerce with local retailers and produce, so make sure you’re in Hall 17 at 14:15 to find out more about —

Moda on thE MoVE Don’t forget to download the Moda Events app and stay ahead of the game of what to do and see at Moda. —

To reserve your tickets call 01484 846069 or email —

FrEE bUsinEss adVicE With more than 25 debates and seminars taking place across the duration of show, Moda offers you the perfect opportunity to hear expert advice on the latest innovations in retail and get the inside story of some of the biggest successes in independent fashion. See the Moda website or app for a full schedule.

schedule of events HALL 17

sunday 16 February

the importance of blogging: Jonny Ross, Jonny Ross Consultancy Sunday 16 February 12:00 Hall 17 14:15 Hall 20 17:00 Hall 17 Lingerie & Swimwear Retail Theatre

Blogging is key to any good digital strategy and how it links in with an organisation’s wider PR and communications plan. Jonny will give hints and tips on how to improve your Google rankings, as well as using Facebook and Twitter to build relationships and win new business.

getting the best from e-commerce and the web: David Abbott, director, Insight Best Practice (BP) Tuesday 18 February 11:00 Hall 17 13:00 Hall 17 Lingerie & Swimwear Retail Theatre

Are you losing out to online competition? Online sales are growing faster than highstreet sales, and nearly all customers who shop locally do some online research first. David will explore factors such as price relativity, price anchors and the power of zero to give you ideas to apply in your own businesses.

Marketing made simple! Simon Shepherd, Client Marketing Ltd Monday 17 February 12:15 Hall 17

Simon will discuss the marketing of your business in simple terms. He will give you an insight into how to write and deliver a marketing plan while addressing any fundamental questions you may wish to put to him, so get your thinking caps on!

10.00 11.15 12.45 13.30 15.00 16.00 18.00

Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk Fashion catwalk Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk Fashion catwalk Evening & occasionwear catwalk Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk Fashion catwalk & drinks

Monday 17 February 10.00 11.00 13.00 14.00 16.00 17.00

Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk Fashion catwalk Evening & occasionwear catwalk Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk Fashion catwalk Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk

tuesday 18 February 10.00 12.00 13.45 14.30

Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk Fashion catwalk Evening & occasionwear catwalk Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk


sunday 16 February

grow your business with help, funding and investment: Warren Knight, CEO, Gloople Tuesday 18 February 13:00 Hall 17

Only 50 per cent of new businesses survive year one, so make sure you’re one of them. Warren will take you through a step-by-step process from start-up to growth and getting investment, including all the pitfalls and challenges from any retail business.

getting your business mobile: Martin O’Toole, Managing director, Fist of Fury Sunday 16 February 14:00 Hall 17 Lingerie & Swimwear Retail Theatre 16:45 Hall 17

Returning to Moda for his second year, Martin will discuss changes in consumer behaviour – and the importance of mobile marketing as a result – in today’s marketplace.

getting sales with social media and online marketing: Warren Knight, CEO, Gloople Tuesday 18 February 10:00 Hall 17 Lingerie & Swimwear Retail Theatre

Warren will talk you through the four core areas behind any online success as well as the importance of creating great content and building online relationships to get sales.

10 steps to visual retail success: Eve Reid, director & founder, Metamorphosis Group Monday 17 February 11:45 Hall 17 (Retail Theatre) 15:00 Hall 17

In the current climate, making a good first impression has never been so important on the high street. Eve will help you discover the secret to maximising your sales through the art of visual merchandising in this dynamic and inspirational seminar.

10.00 Urban & contemporary catwalk 11.15 Tailoring & lifestyle catwalk 12.45 Footwear & accessories catwalk 13.30 Urban & contemporary catwalk 15.00 Tailoring & lifestyle catwalk 16.00 Footwear & accessories catwalk 18.00 Urban & contemporary catwalk & drinks

Monday 17 February 10.00 11.00 13.00 14.00 16.00 17.00

Tailoring & lifestyle catwalk Footwear & accessories catwalk Urban & contemporary catwalk Tailoring & lifestyle catwalk Footwear & accessories catwalk Urban & contemporary catwalk

tuesday 18 February 10.00 Urban & contemporary catwalk 12.00 Tailoring & lifestyle catwalk 13.45 Footwear & accessories catwalk


Moda U.K. - NEC Birmingham stand # MB28

For more details or to make an appointment please contact Stuart Pearce on 07867 503360






rEWriting history Featuring model of the moment and tattoo enthusiast Ricky Hall, contemporary fashion label Duck and Cover presents the campaign for its latest denim development – DAC DNM – for autumn/winter 2014. A brand new chapter to its 16-year history in menswear, the launch of the new denim sub-line sees the label take a more directional turn in terms of its washes, silhouettes and detailing. The collection features a series of cuts and styles such as the Rannu – a slim-skinny fit jean with regular rise, slim thigh and narrow hem; the Boxsir – a straight-fit jean with a regular rise and hem, with a silhouette remaining fairly parallel from the knee to hem; and the Tinnu, a slim-fit style with regular waist, slim thigh and slim hem, with the top half fitting close to the waist and hips and the jeans narrowing subtly towards the hem. The denim collective is supported by a complete clothing range. Distinguished from the main line by a wealth of denim-inspired detailing, the collection includes garment-dyed tees, sweatshirts, wadded bomber jackets and down-filled blousons. —


product news


bread & butter


berlin voices

Rounding up the key stories this month




From hide to fashion ride

Home run Profiling Derby independent Canopy

What the Berlin show had to offer Interviews direct from German trade shows Seek and Premium



prodUct nEWs

spotlighting style.

inside menswear.


NEUW ESTABLISHED: 2010 — HISTORY: Founded by Par Lundqvist, Rich Bell and Steve Little, Neuw was created from the trio’s innate love of vintage denims. — SIGNATURE STYLE: Each jean style includes a fob ring, vintage revision dart and repair stitch for a reinforced pocket. Neuw was a label that came to the attention of MWB at Gallery in Copenhagen in 2011. The label has since grown into a must-see denim name with five standalone stores in Australia and New Zealand. Created by three experts in the denim field, Swede Par Lundqvist and Australian friends Rich Bell and Steve Little took their knowledge and experience of having worked across the industry for a number of years and established their own denim offer. “We collect jeans, the best fits, fabrics and finishes from the last 100 years,” says Lundqvist. “By referencing the traditions of pattern making and tailoring, we re-cut the jeans and re-develop the fabric. Respect the heritage; embrace the future. We call it vintage revision.” Stocked in some of the world’s key retail stores, including Selfridges, Harvey Nichols and Berlin’s 14oz store, Neuw is now looking to enter doors in select menswear independents across the UK. Targeting the 20-35 year-old market, the brand is designed for the man who “moves with the trends, and has an interest in cuts and shapes while also understanding the importance of quality and fabrics.” New additions for a/w 14 include a mid-season collection called Black Rope, which will focus on music influences and punk styles in a simple palette of black. Potential stockists can expect to pay £50 wholesale for Neuw designs and, with the brand having a presence in markets including Belgium, Australia, the US, Hong Kong, South Africa, Canada, Norway and Germany, you’d certainly be in good company.

Marrying the streetwear style of Australia with the cool elements of inner-city London dressing, Two Square prides itself on being the “antithesis of uncool”. Offering a new, updated collection every four months, the brand is the brainchild of Jeremy Remeeus and Steve Atkinson, who collectively have worked at the likes of Diesel, Gas, Firetrap and Gio-Goi. The summer drop includes a strong sportswear influence and, while silhouettes are generous, they are also sleek and sharp in a palette of black, navy, heather grey and off-white. —

LO O K BU SYBO I Contemporary British streetwear label Busyboi was spotted at this month’s Jacket Required, showcasing a high-summer collection of T-shirts and vests. Created to offer its wearer a “strong sense of individuality”, the brand is inspired by the high-octane lifestyle of London, LA, New York, Tokyo and Berlin, drawing influence from a mixture of fashion, music and media in these global hot spots. The a/w 14 collection will see Busyboi welcome the addition of sweat pants and a classic varsity jacket style to its comprehensive range of tops. —


ON TREND seasonal extras: sunglasses

T W E NT Y F I VE YE AR S YOUNG This year marks a chapter in history for British streetwear label Boxfresh as it celebrates its 25th anniversary. To mark the occasion, the brand is hosting 25 events, ranging from parties to art exhibitions, as well as releasing its second “25” collection. Featuring slick graphics, exaggerated silhouettes and a subtle colour palette, the range signifies a new direction and approach for the label. Landing in stores in September, the capsule collection comprises 14 pieces of apparel and four footwear styles. The range will feature the Quarter graphic on T-shirts and sweats and has a label inside each product. A varsity, sports-influenced theme with a sophisticated twist runs throughout the collection, with oversized silhouettes and baseball collars key. —






1: MONOKEL £23 2: POLICE price on request 01923 249491 3: TRIWA £48 0046 8410249 4: QUAY £10 03932 88233 5: QUIKSILVER price on request 020 7392 4020

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

brand to Watch

ABANDON SHIP APPAREL scottish label abandon ship apparel was created in 2011 as a way to fill “the huge hole in the market for iconic graphic designs”, and the brand hasn’t looked back since. in three short years, the streetwear label has grown from a fledging t-shirt brand into a seasonal collection, comprising denims, sweats, hoodies and pullovers. Drawing inspiration from everyday objects such as food, art and music, the design duo admits that many ideas simply come after a beer or two. Designed for young style-conscious men, it’s no surprise the Abandon Ship Apparel was snapped up by the likes of Ark, Topman, Asos and Footasylum in its first two years since inception. With plans to expand into the US market, alongside a number of collaborations with artists and designers, the next 12 months are set to be a thriving time for the brand.

ESTABLISHED: 2011 — HISTORY: An idea between friends Richard Davies and Duncan Sweeny over drinks one evening turned into reality months later and Abandon Ship Apparel was born. — SIGNATURE STYLE: Bold graphic prints and custom-fit garments. —




home run Drawing inspiration from east-coast american street culture, baseball jerseys now dominate the fast-fashion trends among the youth menswear market. traditional logo placements are fused with intricate prints, while slimmer silhouettes offer an alternative to oversized cuts. —

BOXFRESH £16 020 8371 7554

DUCK DA SYSTEM £27.50 07510 222222



Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

MAJESTIC £14 020 7428 1800


FroM hidE to Fashion ridE

derby independent canopy took a different fashion route four years ago with its men’s and women’s shops, after 17 years’ specialising in leather goods and luggage. it’s a move owner james hurdis and his wife, louisa, are happy they took as they’re finding an increasing customer base in need of a good independent with fashion-led product, as tom bottomley discovers. —


the leather goods connection stems from canopy owner james hurdis’ father, john hurdis, once having a small factory in derbyshire making product before cheaper imports took their toll. the first canopy shop opened in 1993 on sadler gate situated in derby’s cathedral Quarter, originally selling traditional luggage, leather goods and footwear. But four years ago, Hurdis and his wife, Louisa, decided to take the leap and make fashion the focus in the men’s and women’s stores (both on Sadler Gate) in Derby, still backed up with a strong accessories and footwear offer. “When Limeys stopped trading on the same street as us a few years ago, we felt it left a void that we could in some part fill,” says Hurdis. “The problem with only selling accessories was that sales to a particular customer are less frequent. When you add fashion into the mix, it gives the same customer a reason to come back on a much more frequent basis. I am so pleased we did what we did. It hasn’t been easy, but dealing with something you love every day makes the hard work seem more bearable.” For the men’s store, Hurdis was heavily influenced with its direction by buying trips to Milan. He’d developed a particular fondness for a shop called Eral 55, which he’d make a beeline for on every trip. “I loved the way the store never seemed to change too dramatically, but always made me feel like a kid in a sweet shop,” he says. “Obviously I realised that Derby was never going be to like Milan, but it was more about the feel of the place. You get guys of all ages in there chatting away to the staff, and it felt like a club of sorts.” Louisa used to be a store manager and womenswear buyer for Limeys, once a Derby fashion institution. And it was apparently her experience there that was a deciding factor in their change of direction. He buys the menswear, and she buys the womenswear. “It works fine,” says Hurdis. “We don’t get too involved in what each other is buying, other than the odd ‘what do you think of this or that?’ There is healthy competition there, though. For years, the business was definitely aimed more at the female market, so the womenswear store had a head start when we changed things around. However, the men’s shop is starting to catch up.”

Bestselling brands at the moment are Edwin, Hartford, Norse Projects, Universal Works and Barbour. “They’re probably the ones with the broadest appeal,” says Hurdis. But he thinks it’s important that the bestselling labels don’t start to dictate the flavour and direction of the store. “With this in mind, we would look to try and push the average ticket price up, always bearing in mind that we’re in Derby, not London.” So what’s Derby like in general these days for an independent retailer? “Sadler Gate was once a high-footfall area, but this has changed significantly over the last 10 years,” says Hurdis. “However, a store like ours is very much a destination, so we’re not over-reliant on passing trade. I do think, though, that even in Derby there seems to be a growing desire to shop with independents, so we will start to see the empty units being filled and more people in the streets. When Westfield opened in the city around six years ago, and the recession started to bite, we started to find units being vacated around us. But that has helped to drive rents down, making it a more viable proposition for independents.” Average wages in Derby are pretty good, thanks in no small part to Rolls Royce Aero Engines (the city’s largest employer). Hurdis notes that as a company they seem to go from strength to strength, which is great for the local economy. “Derby is pretty good for independent shops and I think it is improving,” he says. “We are also starting to see new independent restaurants opening and old pubs having new life breathed into them. Derby is a small city but has some great villages and towns within a 20-minute drive of the centre. We’re also getting a growing number of customers from neighbouring Nottingham, where independent retail isn’t so good.” He realises the need to keep enticing and surprising their customers. “It’s important to keep bringing in new things, but if not a brand, maybe a new product category. Good examples are the Laboratory Perfumes and Royall Fragrances we got in before Christmas, both of which I was talked into trying. I have to say it’s opened my eyes to a whole new category of products.” As for competition, he says there are plenty of fashion retailers doing their own thing but, while he thinks it’s prudent to keep an eye on the competition, he also believes retailers often get too concerned with what their competitors are up to. “There is so much good product out there, there’s no need to be doing the same as one of

your neighbours,” he says. Straight thinking, and very true indeed. Purdis says he only looks forward to getting stuff in the store that he likes personally. “I just hope that my passion for the product rubs off on the customers so that we sell them well.” So far that has been the case. He believes it’s a massive help if the buyer works on the shop floor as well, because he sees getting to speak to his customers on a one-to-one basis and really getting to know them as a huge advantage. He also believes that it’s important that the buying has a direction, as he says an independent “can’t be all things to all people.” At Pitti he placed an order with Italian brand Barena in the Touch area. “Great jackets, beautiful fabrics, good fits and easy to wear,” he says. “I think it’s important to always push the store in a certain direction. The labels that are most interesting are often more expensive. We have customers who have a genuine passion for their clothes, and it’s important to keep finding new things to keep them coming back. I also always wear the brands we sell. That is important.” The target market for the shop is broad in terms of age. What Hurdis’ customers do all have in common is that they’re looking for a certain quality, something different, at a price that isn’t ridiculous, and something the high street doesn’t offer. He says, “We have young guys coming in buying Norse Projects tees, and older guys maybe coming in to replace their Tricker’s because their old ones have given up after 15 years’ service.” Leather goods is also something that Hurdis wants to get back into as a sideline. They have dabbled fairly recently with small quantities of English handmade small leather goods, under the Canopy brand name, and that’s something they’d love to do more of in the near future. “We will look to do it again, when I can find the right source. We just want to do it very slowly in our own store and gauge customers reaction but, who knows, maybe in the future we would look to wholesale it. The last time we had some leather goods made, a guy called Peter Smith handmade them for us. He had a workshop on the platform at Haltwhistle train station. Unfortunately, he moved to France so it came to an end.” Hurdis’ dad still helps out in the store, so maybe with his expertise in leather goods he’s the man to find the new source. Funny how things come full circle.


brEad & bUttEr While the majority of talk among the halls of templehof airport focused on the impending spring/summer 2015 consumer edition of bread & butter, MWb was on the hunt for new labels, developments and product for autumn/winter 2014. here’s what the team discovered across denim, street and young contemporary menswear. —

 C ANDY F O R R I C HM E N A brand new label to Bread & Butter despite being established for over seven years, Candy for Richmen is looking to break into the UK market under the helm of fashion agency Agent C for autumn/winter 2014. Offering a series of unisex designs such as vest, tees and hoodies, it’s this brand’s eye for photography prints that make it one to watch. —

 F O R BE S & LEW I S Showcasing its quintessentially British style, Forbes & Lewis made its debut at last month’s Berlin show with a range of accessory staples. Covering weekend bags, holdalls and the odd briefcase, the collection welcomed the introduction of neon on its leather straps and handles, refreshing its hero piece – the leather backpack. —

 HU M O R Danish label Humor returned to the halls of Bread & Butter with its signature denim and contemporary menswear range. Typically for autumn/winter, outerwear was key, with heavyweight utilitarian parkas featuring contrast colour panels and contrast stitching. Also key was the houndstooth-print long sleeved shirt, while denim highlights included the drop crotch with white buttons, contrast yellow and white hem and pocket stitching. —


 HYM N Launching at Bread & Butter this season, young menswear label Hymn comes from the same family stable as successful womenswear brand Louche. Marrying durability and functionality with clean, commercially quirky designs, the collection comprised chinos, knitwear, outerwear, T-shirts and accessories. Highlights included knitted jumpers with whale and lobster graphics, tartan linings and teal fisherman jumpers. —

 NE NA & PASADE NA Launched in Melbourne, Australia, in 2010, Nena & Pasadena returned to the show with a plethora of signature T-shirt prints. Founded by Tim Arandt, Ryan Griggs and Paul Edwards, the brand has experienced great success in its native market, and is currently growing quite the following here in the UK. Highlights include the use of a risqué black and white photograph and denim pieces such as the cut-off waistcoat. —

 O I LL Another brand debut at the show, streetwear label Oill stems from Copenhagen and offers a mix of unisex apparel, accessories and footwear styles. Targeting the 15-30 age group, the brand creates four annual collections and is exported to 17 different markets in Europe and Asia. Oill stays close to its core values of a streetwear label this season with sports-inspired silhouettes, UV-components, graphic prints and a classic monochrome colour palette. —

 T HE C U C KO O S NE ST The Cuckoos Nest is a development from the team at contemporary fashion brand Cuckoos Nest, with a more premium direction in terms of design and logo. Comprising hoodies, sweats, tracksuit bottoms, shirts, jackets and tees, prints are key and include peacock feathers, oil-effect and abstract bird illustrations. —


bErlin VoicEs seek and premium have different appeals as exhibitions, with seek the edgier of the two. but premium is perhaps most likely to throw up a surprise in a hidden corner. tom bottomley went along to get the chat from both shows. —


rUssEll pickEtt salEs dirEctor, by Way oF natUral sElEction What’s changed with the brand? We’re moving away from our association with denim, though not forgetting that it’s where our roots are as we still make very good jeans. But we’re now offering a more clean and contemporary fashion collection. We’ve cleaned up our jeans and taken off the Natural Selection Denim branding. It’s going down more of an APC route – slightly more grown-up. It’s the first time we’ve shown it and it’s a lot sharper using cleaner fabrics. “Clean” has become the new “heritage” in terms of an industry buzzword, so it gets overused a lot. you’ve shown in seek previously, so why now show at premium? Yes, we really like Seek – we’ve shown there for a couple of seasons and it’s a well-curated show, but we’ve supported our German distributor this time at Premium as it’s more of a “local” show for him, and he had two or three other brands there. He feels that for the German market he gets more of a premium buyer as opposed to Seek. It’s not really for us, or how we’re moving forward though to be honest. For instance, we’re showing at Man in New York this season. It is more of a step in the right direction, and more of the environment where we see the brand fitting. —

rhys daViEs salEs dirEctor, EVisU Why are you showing the main line and high-end japanese range in premium, and Evisu genes in seek? Evisu Genes is more streetwear-focused, and we felt we hadn’t really put a definition between the brands and on the segmentation of where our distribution is going and the feeling of the collections. The main line is a much more denimfocused and contemporary collection, featuring a wool peacoat with leather sleeves and a Crombie-style coat with a raw denim collar. And there are a lot of internal details such as denim linings, camouflage and pops of colour. Was this season the first time you’ve shown at premium? Yes, and it was very good. There is a much more focused customer coming in who understands the product instantly. They can see the difference between the main line and the handmade in Japan collection, which is our cherry on the cake. That has the white patch with red Buddha logo – and No.2 on it. Each jean has either handpainted or applique back pockets. There are limited production runs on it, and everything about it is hand-crafted in the Japanese factory. It’s therefore limited distribution. The jeans retail for £500-plus, whereas the main line is £200-plus. The Evisu Genes line goes for £130-£190. It keeps the distribution channels clear, and the branding is different on all of them. —

Marc hickling dirEctor, Marc alEXandEr agEnciEs ltd. shoWing circlE oF gEntlEMEn how long has the brand been established in the Uk? Around two years. It’s a Dutch brand and it has its own twist. We’ve been specific to where we’ve placed it – only working with the best independents such as Jules B, Jonathan Trumball and Hatters. We tend to work with tailoring specialists. In fact we’re now in around 60 of the most premium independents. We’ve so far held off with the department stores because we want to grow the label through the independent channel first. so is this a turning point for you? I’d say so, because the collection has now grown up a bit, and the customers we’re working with have had fantastic sell-throughs. We also offer a good stock replenishment system. Shirts retail at £129£149. A lot of the fabrics are exclusive to Circle of Gentlemen. Blazers are a strong category for us, too – shorter in fit but traditional in tailoring. They range from £299 to around £450. We sit alongside Canali and Zegna in a lot of stores. Everything is half-canvassed and, though the end customer doesn’t necessarily recognise that, they understand the fit and the quality when they wear it. —

FEliX staEUdingEr oWnEr and distribUtor, MEnil What is your brand ethos? We are from Dusseldorf, but we make outerwear in East London under Menil, which was my grandfather’s name. He travelled around selling yarns and textiles during the 50s and 60s. We’re doing duffle coats, reefers and quilted jackets in lots of colours. We also have a shawl-neck duffle style, and we do one in a camouflage fabric, which breaks with tradition. We’re producing classics, but in a more modern fit and with modern details. We’re also using contrast colours, which give a traditional piece such as a duffle a younger appeal. how long has the brand been established? It’s our second year, so this is our fourth season. We cater for men, women and kids. Our label on the outerwear says, “Handcrafted in East London.” We want to bring European-made products to the final consumer for the best possible price. Our duffle coats retail for €390. We also make belts in Cornwall and linen scarves at an old weaver in France. Our goal is to find good manufacturers and develop with them a product that fits our brand. In 10 years we would like to have a complete collection – all made in Europe. We are also currently seeking UK distribution. —



GorDon lawrie account manaGer, BarBour

stuart Graham sales manaGer, a numBer oF names, showinG new laBel tsptr what’s the new label all about? it’s from the guys who have trainerspotter and had the heritage research line. the abbreviated name stands for the five principles of modernist design, as quoted by famous architect louis sullivan – truth, symmetry, pleasure, taste and recognition. there’s a peanuts collaboration, based around the 60s comic strip featuring charlie brown and snoopy. there are also references to the student protests in america in the 60s, when the vietnam war was really kicking in. some of the graphics incorporate the classic vietnam film apocalypse now with Marlon brando. any key pieces? there’s a t-shirt featuring charlie brown with a surfboard and the caption, “charlie don’t surf”, which is a well-known quote from the film. in terms of product it’s that heritage sports look, with goodquality heavyweight tees and sweats. there’s also a coach jacket featuring a charlie brown graphic with a cord collar and quilted lining. —

DaViD keyte owner anD DesiGner, uniVersal works how many times have you shown at seek? this is our fourth time. we weren’t getting a lot of german business, and obviously you come to berlin hoping to get some german customers. we were picking up customers from other parts of the world who travel, but not much business in germany. last time we had a bit of interest, but this season we’ve been inundated with people wanting to buy the collection. seek is like the quirky young upstart of premium – it’s part of it, but it’s definitely very different. Maybe it used to be too quirky for the german market, but perhaps now it’s not. there are a lot of german stores coming in and liking what they’re seeing. where are you taking your design route? we always try to use as many british fabrics as we can. we buy a lot of fabric from yorkshire, lancashire and scotland, and we make things in the Uk where we can. we’ve always been a mix of fashion and streetwear. it’s very casual, but we still have a slightly smarter edge to us – and we’ve moved it in that direction i think. there’s only so much you do with menswear without it starting to look jokey. classic works, but classic changes all the time. what was classic 20 years ago is a very different shape now. silhouettes change. —

which part of the Barbour offer was at seek? the men’s heritage collection, as well as department b – which is a capsule line within men’s heritage. it’s in its third season, and is influenced by an old customisation room we used to have at south shields. it’s based around a military look, and is more of a premium collection to sit where we used to have the to ki to line for beacon heritage. there’s also a hunting lodge theme for a/w 14. and we’re in our third and final season of our collaboration with patrick grant from norton & sons, then we will have something new for s/s 15. how does it differ from Barbour international? we feel we have two strong stories. at bread & butter we have our barbour international stand. barbour international was started in 1936 supplying international product and motorcycle gear. they are both now clearly defined offers, and we wouldn’t carry the heritage line in our barbour international stores. —

marco cairns DesiGner, DuFFer oF st GeorGe Japan how does this brand differ to the Duffer line that sells in JD sports? this is more like the original duffer of st george collections. i’ve been designing it for Japan for the last 10 years, and the idea is to now bring it back to europe. it is a proper menswear collection, aimed at an older audience. there’s more attention to detail and the price points are higher. whereas the Jd line is more the sportswear side, this is more jerseys and wovens, and there are stronger outerwear pieces such as the deck jacket. are there any archive pieces you’re reintroducing? we’ve introduced a small archive range, featuring pieces we were doing around 15 years ago – using the original label and old artwork. people have been asking for it. it’s only the second season we’ve been available in the Uk again. what has been the reaction? i was nervous about it at first, in terms of how people were going to react – obviously with the Jd thing. but it’s generally been positive. it’s got a different handwriting, and people are coming back to it. —


collectiVe the people, the places, the products.

little black book the Doll’s house, lonDon n1

remember the millennium? i found myself thinking about that auspicious date this new year’s eve. Despite the doomsday soothsayers, the world didn’t collapse at midnight. the much-vaunted millennium Bug failed to materialise to the relief of all, especially those it contractors who had been charging £5,000 a day in late 1999 to make our systems future-proof. they were the late 20th-century equivalents of plumbers looking at faulty boilers. there was much sucking in of air, prodding and poking, jargon designed to exclude mere mortals, and dire forecasts designed to make those mere mortals pay through the nose for something the equivalent of a tap washer. “two sugars and have you got any biscuits?” common to both is the sense of anxiety, of not wanting things to go wrong, to be on top of the issue. now we have a new anxiety – social Media inadequacy disorder, or sMid for short. we are bombarded continually by commentators explaining that conventional means of communications – such as talking – are dead, and that the under 30s only respond to whatsapp, blogs and twitter. Unless stimulated by social media, they drift into a catatonic state. you see them on buses and the tube. blank faces, lifeless eyes, slumped, just waiting for their devices to bleep to reactivate them. an entire industry has grown up feeding off our collective sMid. the other day i was asked by a blogger, “how many twitter followers do you have?” when i replied, proudly, “one thousand”, i was given the kind of withering look normally reserved for people who strangle cats for fun. My somewhat old-fashioned view that good retail is as necessary as good online – at least for my business – does not exclude social media. i’m not that stupid. i know i need it, even if i don’t like it much. last summer i suffered a particularly bad sMid attack when it became clear that i didn’t know the difference between pinterest and tumblr. enough was enough – i recruited Jess, my marketing manager. bright, young and thankfully free of sMid, she soon had all the social media under control. now we are all connected and engaged. but much of this is common sense, and i’m glad that we did it in house. Jess has managed to maintain the “flavour” of the brand on all the different platforms, and there is plainly a rising awareness of the brand on google and this must play a part. i no longer feel inadequate. Maybe i should tweet that. or post it on facebook. or maybe just have a nice cup of tea. simon carter is the ceo of the eponymous brand and retail stores. —

© Paul Rowland

siMon says

there’s nothing like a time limit to lend an air of exclusivity to a venue and, due for demolition in a year’s time, london’s new club, the Doll’s house, fits the bill when it comes to must-visit, “get it while it’s still standing” after-hours socialising. — occupying a somewhat faceless office block on the eastern side of hoxton square, the doll’s house turns a shabby building into an atmospheric backdrop for those wanting an after-hours drink in the parlour, a culinary experience in the dining room or time out on the venue’s rooftop terrace. free membership is available via the club’s online form. —

plan B

Declan wise director, afends

having grown up and lived my entire life in Byron Bay (a small town with a great lifestyle in australia), i could not see myself chained to a city – even though i love city life. — My plan b would be shaping surfboards; it feels so good to be able to create a piece of art that you can have so much fun on. the ultimate goal would be to live somewhere tropical like indo [bali] with good food and great surf. i’d be focused on clean eating, happiness and being energetic. in the off-season, my plan b would to be based in europe as it’s got more culture and good-looking people than anywhere else on the planet. although plan b sounds amazing, plan a is proving very successful, and being based out of byron bay makes plenty of time for work, health, happiness and a great life. —



closEt conFidEntial paUl bUckland coUntry ManagEr, VolcoM My wardrobe must-have? i’d have to say my Electric “sunnies” have been a favourite of mine for years. They are good quality but hardwearing, which is perfect for me as you’re most active when outside in the sun, and so I appreciate their sports edge. “Sunnies” are a must-have for holidays and travelling, so it’s good to have a pair that serve me well but some I’m not super precious over. There is no point in spending lots of money on something like sunglasses and not wearing them. — My Wesc skate pack ticks two boxes for me – travel friendly and skate friendly. It’s easy to get in and out of, which is good for a man who travels frequently. I also skate a lot, so this pack can carry my laptop and work documents, but I can still carry a board on the back. — With the travelling comes plenty of walking to and from trade shows, airports and train stations. So it’s important to have a good pair of shoes, and that’s why I wear my Volcom Sub Zero boots 90 per cent of the time when I am on the road. They are so comfortable and warm but aren’t heavy, so I’m not dragging my feet around. There is nothing worse than shoes that rub. I normally only take one pair on a trip, and these lend themselves well to day and evening events. — next up is my Volcom grant taylor shirt. Being on the road a lot means I have become a pro at packing light, and am often looking for versatile items that can be used repeatedly. This item works well over a T-shirt as a shirt or jacket, so I can get multiple wears on one trip. — i have always been a beanie wearer, whether it is cold or not. When it comes to beanies, I wear many labels and colours, but I keep coming back to my Urban Outfitters’ own-brand one because I like the colour and the chunky knit material, which holds up well in the rain.

Lee Jeans @LeeJeans Great fit and great style are synonymous. #thesaurusday Stuart Flatt @stuartflatt People who leave the cross thread in the rear of a new blazer or suit. Really? Nathan Rous @NathanRous Not sure the quiet carriage on this train was prepared for the noisiest opening of a muffin ever. Sorry.... David Walker-Smith @DavidEWS @LBQblog: today marks the beginning of a new era for @FenwickBondSt - their logo is turning white! For good! Katy Lubin @katylubin Bravo Santander for sponsoring @JohnSmedley apprenticeship scheme. Wonderful British brand that will now be able to boost local workforce Daniel Rhone @danielrhone It looks like it's Argyle everywhere at Moncleur this evening #MFW Lizzie Singleton @DebsPR_Lizzie All my wardrobe consists of is leather shorts/skirts/trousers, grey t-shirts & jumpers & odd pair of jeans. I'm like a female @SimonCowell David Watts @David_M_Watts Reviewing SS14 Couture collections and someone must explain to Designers that very expensive fabrics does not alone Haute Couture make?

SOCIETY thE partiEs and EVEnts FroM in and aroUnd thE MEnsWEar indUstry.

 As part of the London Collections: Men three-day event last month, British label Ben Sherman welcomed guests including singer Eliza Doolittle (pictured), Olympian Louis Smith and Made in Chelsea star turned designer Oliver Proudlock to an exclusive presentation of its autumn/winter 2014 Plectrum line, introduced with a short film by design duo Agi & Sam.

 Menswear designer Patrick Grant (pictured) gave the audience at the recent UKFT Rise StartUp Fashion Event an insight into his journey from purchasing the struggling Savile Row tailor Norton & Sons to reviving the business as fashion’s go-to bespoke suit service and launching ready-to-wear range E.Tautz.

 Trade exhibition Premium welcomed more than 350 buyers, industry insiders and press to announce the winners of the Premium Young Designers Award 2014, with the Menswear Designer of the Year Award presented to London label Na Di Studio (pictured centre).


thE bottoMlEy linE MWb deputy editor tom bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

© Paul Mowatt


it’s a FaMily aFFair Well-known industry face Mark McCann and his wife, Hannah, and brother-in-law Charlie Warren – along with his wife Shelly – are backing outerwear brand Greatcoat, which we’re thinking will do everything it says on the tin, or cloth for that matter. The project is supported with more family members getting involved, including cousins of the clan to support sales and communications. There are some good-looking pieces, classics reinvented if you will. “We have combined our skill sets in putting together a premium offer of men’s outerwear,” says McCann. “We felt passionate enough to utilise our social time – that we already spend together – working on design, trims, details, sourcing and production. Our experience, and 80 years in the fashion industry combined, has got this labour of love up and running. We are all committed to our day jobs with continued zest and appetite for success, but we are also pursuing this project to ensure Greatcoat has the opportunity to succeed.” Spoken like a true professional. Launching at Jacket Required, McCann adds that they are using “the very best of British manufacturing,” as well as the finest Italian fabrics, with classic and technical detailing thrown into the mix.

“pitbUll” daVids says Fashion is his passion Former footie pro Edgar Davids, who ex-Ajax manager Louis van Gaal once nicknamed The Pitbull for his tenacious style of play despite being only 5ft 7in, is now up and running with his second love – fashion. His Monta Heritage line launched at Pitti, and it’s likely he’s got a few mates with a lot of spare cash who will now be getting togged up by the Surinamese-born Dutch professional, who was capped 74 times by the Netherlands. His dreadlocked hair and protective goggles made


him one of the most recognised players of his generation, and he’s now hoping his style will be picked up on by many others (not necessarily the dreads and goggles you understand). Monta Soccer, Davids’ “street football” gear, has been around for a while, but this is pure fashion and there’s something different about it. Davids has travelled a lot in his time at the likes of Milan, Juventus – where manager Marcello Lippi once described him as “my one man engine room” – Barcelona, Tottenham, Crystal Palace – albeit short-lived – and even as player-manager of Conference Premier side Barnet (bet the fans wore dreadlock wigs while he was there, but will they be sporting Montage Heritage for a/w 14?). So he likes to be stylish but comfortable, with a bit of luxury thrown in, of course, despite the Barnet phase. He even underwent a part-time fashion design course at St Martins. And he’s nailed the “sneaker suit”, if ever there was such a thing. A “whistle” (and not the ref’s) that looks right with a pair of trainers, in a flecked wool that seriously looks the part. He loves a bit of leather, too, though these days it’s not because of his favourite footie boots but because of his favourite flying jacket.

thE look that kEEps on giVing The beard, the fishing jacket, the boots with the white wedge soles, or brogues, of course, the tattoos – even on the neck (once the preserve of bank robbers, now the favoured look of bank clerks) is a look that dangerously seems to be taking over the world. Berlin was particularly inflicted with such tribesmen for the last bout of shows, but when will it end? It’s a trend that’s rapidly turning into a disaster, especially looking around the waiting lounge at Berlin airport. Even the geeks are going for the neck tats these days, and they won’t be able to grow a beard long enough to cover them up should they one day realise their error of judgement in the name of supposed coolness. In my youthful days, it was only the skinhead nutters – and those bound for young offenders units – who dared to ink their necks, faces, ears, eyes and inside lips. Call me old fashioned, but I think we’ve got an ink epidemic. We need a new trend please, maybe we can we start with a razor?


agEnts WantEd


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last orDers with... casely–hayForD after a triumphant start to the new season following their autumn/winter 2014 debut at london collections: men, father-and-son design duo Joe and charlie casely-hayford talk to mwB’s Victoria Jackson about fine-tuning their working relationship and the dream of dressing president obama. —

Place of birth: JC-H: Kent CC-H: London Live now: London D/O/B: JC-H: 24/05/56 CC-H: 24/05/86 Twitter: @CaselyHayfordUK Website:

First of all, congratulations on a great start to the season. where did you start in terms of inspiration for the a/w 14 collection? Jc-h: we have been overwhelmed by the reaction to our first show. the casely-hayford dna brings together our main influences – an interest in social issues and the energy of british subcultures, with a new spirit in tailoring that draws on traditional methods and techniques. My background combines designing commissioned stage outfits and dressing the highest members of the british establishment during my time as creative director of gieves & hawkes. charlie, you joined forces with your father in 2008 to establish casely-hayford. was it a path you had always thought about going down? cc-h: yes. we discussed working together while my father was at gieves & hawkes. i studied at st Martins and went on to study fine art in florence. i was in the middle of a history of art course at the courtauld institute when we joined forces. we launched our first collection while i was still at university. i didn’t get much kip around that time. Joe, you have had a successful career as both a menswear and womenswear designer, but who have you enjoyed designing for the most? Jc-h: i enjoy designing for both men and women. with menswear, i’m constantly aware of the formal sartorial rules and traditions that create interesting parameters to work within. womenswear, meanwhile, begins with a blank canvas, which presents infinite possibilities. Do you both have equal roles in terms of designing each collection? Jc-h: we work closely and enjoy an ongoing dialogue which, as you might gather, is approached from opposite ends of the generation spectrum. this does present some “interesting” exchanges, but we tend to find that our strongest ideas are often the result of the deepest discussions. Most

importantly, we share the same core vision and ideals. we even share the same birthday. cc-h: it’s in the finer details that we bring different things to the table. it’s always an interesting process as an exchange between father and son, where i try to convey how i have perceived something for the first time and why it’s relevant, and my father may have experienced or seen it several times over in his career. Most of the time it’s about context, and we often go back and forth. i guess it’s a form of education that works both ways. Do you draw inspiration from anyone or any time in particular in terms of your personal style? Jc-h: i’m classic in my style, and my wardrobe works around the same pieces. i find changing proportions with time moves my look forward. for example, during the winter i wore an oversized chesterfield coat, a cashmere crew neck, 1968 levi’s and triple-welted U-tip brogues – all the same styles i would have worn differently five years ago. cc-h: i wear a uniform and probably always will. i like the sense of stability when working in something as transient as fashion. My style is kind of a sartorial skinhead. i don’t know how else to describe it. i wear a suit and t-shirt every day with cropped trousers, red socks and 12-hole army boots with a white pocket square. i like not having to think in the morning.

Quick-Fire Questions — Dream client? JC-H: President Obama. — What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever received? CC-H: Life is what you make it; don’t wait around for things to happen. — Theme tune to your life? JC-H: A little bit of Miles Davis mixed with some Poulenc piano and Madlib. — Film that made in impact on your life? CC-H: Withnail and I. — Labels in your closet? CC-H: Comme des Garçons and Nike Air Jordan sweats.