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         

August/September 2013


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# REGULARS 05: Comment 06: News 08: NCWA 12: Open for business Legal and business advice plus industry opinion 14: Retail Therapy Store profiles and retail news 16: Brands to Watch Editor’s pick of brands




18: Industry measure Bestselling children’s labels 20: Simply gorgeous ilovegorgeous designer Sophie Worthington discusses the brand’s developments and plans 22: The looks of s/s 14 Fashion trends from this season’s leading UK and overseas shows 24: Get your kicks An overview of footwear spotted at the s/s 14 edition of Bubble London

40: Laura loves The coolest products for kids

26: The changing face of the high street A round-up of the recent Bira conference

42: Style guide Shirts

28: True colours S/s 14 fashion shoot

62: Talking point: Coleen Rooney

38: Moda Footwear The key looks to watch out for at this season’s show



47: News 54: Product focus: craftwear CWB’s pick of craftwear garments 55: The role of school uniform in today’s society Key findings from the Schoolwear Association Survey 2013 56: Retail focus: Family values CWB takes a look at two family businesses offering schoolwear to discover the people behind the stores

ď€˜ď€ťď€¸ď€ˇď€˝ď€€ď€Źď€¸ď€żď€Žď€ťď€‘ ď€Žď€¸ď€ˇď€€ď€šď€˛ď€ˇď€´ď€€ď€Şď€ˇď€­ď€€ď €ď€ąď€˛ď€˝ď€Žď€€ď€źď€˝ď€ťď€˛ď€šď€Žď€€ď€­ď€ťď€Žď€źď€źď€ƒ ď€Łď€Şď€Źď€ąď€Žď€ľď€€ď€Łď€˛ď€ľď€Žď ‚ď€ƒď€€ď€‡ď€‰ď€‡ď€€ď€Žď€?ď€Šď€Œď€€ď€Žď€‡ď€‡ď€Ž ď€¤ď€˛ď€ľď€żď€Žď€ťď€€ď€źď€ąď€¸ď€Žď€źď€ƒď€€ď€“ď€ˇď€°ď€žď€ľď€žď€źď€ƒď€€ď€‡ď€Žď€?ď€Œď€Œď€€ď€Œď€‡ď€?ď€?ď€?

26 & 27 January 2014 Business Design Centre, London A great mix of children’s products A unique buying experience

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Photography: Sonya Hurtado,

For more information visit

August/September 2013


)5$ $2*. According to a recent report by the British Retail Consortium, UK retail sales rose by 1.4 per cent on a like-for-like basis from June 2012, with clothing and footwear – helped by a warmer June than last year – being the best-performing categories. The impact that weather can have on a retailer’s performance is no secret, so it’s been a pleasant change to see a season corresponding better with the stock in stores.

         

Sticking with the topic of summer, this issue we round-up the key looks of s/s 14 in our fashion trends review on page 22. We also take a look at the new season’s footwear collections as seen at Bubble London on page 24, and bring the s/s 14 season alive in pictures in our seasonal fashion shoot, True colours, on page 28, shot by new photographer to the magazine Sonya Hurtado. In our interview Simply Gorgeous on page 20 we speak to Sophie Worthington, designer of UK girlswear label ilovegorgeous, to discover more about the brand’s recent developments, including the opening of a second London standalone store and the introduction of a mobile app.

In schoolwear, we take a look at some of the options available to retailers looking for school craftwear garments in our product focus on page 54. We have insights into two established, family run schoolwear businesses in our retail focus on page 56, and we review the findings of the recent Schoolwear Association Survey 2013, which uncovers the opinions of both parents and teachers across the UK regarding school uniform and associated issues of discipline, behaviour, quality and safety. Next issue is our dedicated schoolwear edition, which includes an exclusive preview of what will be in store at the forthcoming Schoolwear Show on 13-15 October 2013 at Cranmore Park, Solihull. Until then, stay updated on the event’s announcements, exhibitor news and visitor information via the new Schoolwear Show website,, and

Laura Turner Editor

For footwear retailers, we have a run-down of what will be on offer at this season’s edition of Moda Footwear on page 38. The show, taking place on 11-13 August at Birmingham’s NEC, is a must for any stockist of children’s shoes, with the exhibition offering the largest gathering of children’s footwear brands in the UK.

Editor Laura Turner Contributors Isabella Griffiths Christina Williams Victoria Jackson Sub editor Amanda Batley Designers Michael Podger Clive Holloway James Lindley Richard Boyle Sales manager Helen Hodson Subscriptions Lydia Bennett Head of childrenswear Lindsay Hoyes Production director Gill Brabham Marketing director Stephanie Parker Managing director Colette Tebbutt Reprographics/printing Image Data Group Ltd 01482 652323

CWB is published 6 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright© 2013 CWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved.Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

CWB is a joint venture between RAS Publishing and the National Childrenswear Association.

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication CWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include WWB and MWB. RAS Publishing is an ITE Group company.


August/September 2013

*2'6  


  Offering the UK’s largest gathering of children’s footwear, this season’s edition of Moda Footwear on 11-13 August at Birmingham’s NEC will include new signings such as Bambi, Joules, Nokian Footwear, O’Neill and Pippo. Key returns meanwhile, include Lelli Kelly, XTI Kids, Froddo, Ricosta, Primigi and Pediped.

Tu at Sainsbury’s, which is now the seventh largest clothing brand by volume in the UK, will relaunch this September with contemporary branding and refreshed collections. The relaunch is the biggest investment in the Tu brand since it launched in 2004, and includes investment in a 30-strong design team. A/w 13 will showcase Tu’s enhanced design credentials which, for childrenswear, include knitwear, outerwear and an extensive mix of dress-up items. The range also introduces new fabrications such as marl yarns and a new Made in Britain girlswear collection. More inspired merchandising, easier to navigate store layouts and a new logo are also planned.

To extend the buying experience, all visitors to Moda Footwear can make use of the show’s business seminar programme, which this season includes Email Marketing on a Budget; Ten Steps to Visual Retail Success and Retail Surgeries: Bespoke Advice For You. For the full schedule and seminar times visit

  Lelli Kelly, the Italian footwear brand for girls, is celebrating 21 years in business with the launch of its first clothing line for s/s 14. The capsule girlswear line for 2-9 years offers a number of key looks opposed to a complete collection. In terms of footwear, the brand has also launched an extensive school shoe range exclusive to the UK market. The shoes feature a choice of three straps, three options in terms of lasts, and the new addition of three width fittings.

  Bubble London, which took place in June at the Business Design Centre in Islington, closed the doors on another successful season for s/s 14.

  Girlswear label Angel’s Face is extending its collection to include a new footwear range. The shoes are designed to complement the brand’s existing fashion line, which includes the core product of pettiskirt tutus, as well as dresses, T-shirts, tops, lace-trim leggings and babygros. Featuring leather uppers and inners and a rubber non-slip sole, the ballet-style shoes are available in a choice of five metallic shades – lavender, pink, navy, gold and silver – have colour-match, removable satin ankle ribbons and come in Euro sizes 28-38. For added gift appeal, the shoes are presented in a luxurious, branded shoe box.

Showcasing 250 collections, the show offered the best in children’s apparel, accessories, gifts and lifestyle products, attracting buyers from across the globe. Brands such as Frugi, Melissa, Rachel Riley, Indikidual, ilovegorgeous and Name It all reported an increase in overseas opportunities, with buyers from emerging markets in particular taking an interest. As well as orders from across Europe, brands forged commitments in countries such as Malaysia, South Africa, Hong Kong and Russia. The event also saw several newcomers make a big impact this season, with over 80 brands attending for the first time including Castell, Piupiuchick, Rockahula Kids and Long Wave Apparel. The best of the fledgling labels featured in the inaugural Bubble Rising Star competition, meanwhile, with Portuguese label Milk & Rock (since rebranded Wolf & Rita) crowned the first winner of the award. The next edition of Bubble London takes place on 26-27 January 2014. For further information visit the show’s new-look website,

  New UK specialist maternity and babywear agent and distributer Babyagency, which represents Babylonia (pictured), Boob, Koeka and Shnuggle, has opened a West London showroom. Launched in 2012, the agency is owned by former independent retailer Liz Pilgrim, whose shop Baby E, in Ealing, was destroyed in the 2011 London riots. “The riots made me re-evaluate my business and the direction I wanted to take it,” says Pilgrim. “Retail is definitely under my skin, and I’m enjoying the challenge of bringing brands and retailers together. My experience as a retail buyer will be invaluable, especially for newer independents, as I understand the challenges from both sides.”

August/September 2013


  The organisers of Fashion SVP, the near-shore fashion sourcing event, and the UK Fashion & Textile Association (UKFT), are taking a combined approach to highlight the role of British fashion and garment manufacture.

  British girlswear label Candy Queen Store has made its US debut at glitzy sweet emporium Sugar Factory’s flagship store in the Paris Las Vegas Hotel and Casino. Sugar Factory, which offers bejewelled and custom handle lollipops and candy inspired fashion and gifts, also has stores at Las Vegas’ MGM Grand, The Mirage and in New York City.

UKFT and the IDEX group will be working co-operatively in the run-up to the event, at London’s Olympia on 22-24 September 2013, on show features and promotion. “UKFT is delighted to be able to lend its support to a show that connects retailers, wholesalers and sourcing companies with textile, garment and fabric manufacturers,” says John Miln, CEO of UKFT. Buzz Carter, event director of Fashion SVP, adds, “The welcomed support and endorsement of UKFT marks an important step in the show’s development, especially as more UK producers join the event this year to display their capabilities.”

Sugar Factory will stock Candy Queen Store’s collection – for 3-10 years – which comprises T-shirts with interchangeable confectionary inspired icons.

   The spring/summer 2014 edition of Independent Kids on 7-8 July at Cranmore Park, Solihull, offered visitors more than 100 collections including newcomers Blue Seven, French Connection, Mud Pie, Mini Mino, Pom Pom and Mafana Kids. Mayoral, Frugi, Lilly & Sid and Kite were among the key returns. It also included the unveiling of a new showroom refreshment area, which proved to be a hit with buyers as an area to both network and relax. Independent Kids a/w 14 takes place on 16-17 February 2014 at Cranmore Park, Solihull.

“I am so excited Sugar Factory has decided to take our label,” says brand creator and designer Mel Buchanan. “I think our brands mesh together perfectly and this could be a massive opportunity.”

  Apparel size and fit expert Alvanon has launched a global Professional Development Programme to deliver fashion size and fit efficiencies to company wide product design, development and sourcing teams. The advanced one-day course, delivered by Alvanon’s consultancy, AlvaInsight, comprises four focused modules, providing the key tools needed to improve garment development efficiency, increase speed to market and achieve greater accuracy in product fit. Additional modules currently in development include a Best Practices Series focused on special apparel categories including childrenswear. The programme costs $5,000 and can be customised to a client’s specific training needs.

 

 

 

New British brand Skribbies is due to showcase its customisable children’s footwear range as part of retail enterprise scheme PopUp Britain. The scheme supports retail entrepreneurs by providing access to sought-after high-street spaces via pop-up shops, so small businesses can trial physical retail without the long-term financial commitment. Skribbies is available over a two-week period on 1-13 August 2013 at 387 Kings Road in Chelsea.

New dribble bib brand Neckerchew, which launched to market six months ago, is 40 per cent ahead of its sales forecast, following high demand from independents and major retailers for its product. In the first five months of trading to 30 June, the company turned over more than £50,000 and, among its accounts, secured a deal with John Lewis in 32 stores around the country.

The brand, which launched in June, has also been selected as a finalist in the Start-Up Britain Awards, and is a winner of the Shell Live Wire Grand Idea awarded to start-up businesses with the most creative business ideas.

           

The Neckerchew is a dribble bib made of three layers of highly absorbent jersey with a textured triangle-shaped teether at the base developed in a specialised silicon to sooth tender gums. Manufactured in the UK, the initial product range includes 10 designs, which are all fully reversible.

              

           



August/September 2013

*)'3; &/+0% .0:;+-7:87;1:8;"49;70: *-7,91-+;)0,+4:18:-4;3889%,-7,91 EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S COMMENT: The recent comments by the chairman of one of the high street’s largest retailers and the chief executive of one of the UK’s largest supermarket chains on the disadvantages faced by bricks-and-mortar shops compared with online retailers are to be welcomed. For once, it doesn’t look like the small retailer blaming all and sundry for poor sales figures in an ever-diminishing independent sector. The intervention of some of the largest players, with the media coverage that they can engender, must push the issue of business rates further up the government’s agenda. Based on rental values, business rates have increased by some 13 per cent in three years, while online retailers are largely exempt from this taxation. Let us not forget either the employment that is provided by the nation’s shopkeepers, as well as the ancillary businesses, including the tearooms and coffee shops, supported by them.

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BABY BOUTIQUE This month saw Baby Boutique celebrate its first anniversary as an independent retailer of childrenswear and accessories. The store, in Loughborough, Leicestershire, specialises in clothes and accessories for the 0-6 age group, retailing brands including Little Darlings, Sarah Louise and Tutto Piccolo. “The first year has exceeded our expectations,� says Natalie Hallam, who owns the store with mother Vicky Clarke. “We’ve had a good cross-section of consumers, from dads to grandmas, and have even established some overseas customers because Loughborough has a university with such an established group of international students. Their families come to visit and discover Baby Boutique, so we are reaching far and wide.�

The recent heatwave has come as a blessing for those seeking to clear summer stock. After a couple of dismal summers, which gave little incentive to consumers to change their wardrobes, it has been refreshing to hear that lightweight clothes are back in demand. Sitting on a sweltering bus in London, I was amused by the sight of winter coats in one of the UK’s top retailers and not for the first time wondered how much business is really done in merchandise that may not be worn for another couple of months at least. The nation’s schoolwear sector is looking forward to the Back to School period – in Scotland and Northern Ireland, where the school holidays end in mid-August, schoolwear retailers will already have some idea of how business has been. News that more schools are to be given the power to decide their own term times and holiday periods will complicate the situation, although it may give suppliers more time to make deliveries and retailers may enjoy sales over a longer period. I was pleased to see so many of you at Bubble London in June. Although it was obvious that the poor weather had dampened expectations, it was reassuring to hear from exhibitors who’d had a good show, including those who had not exhibited recently. The constant addition of new exhibitors means that there is always something new to see at Bubble, and changes to the “mix� of visitor, including those from overseas, means there are always new customers for exhibitors to attract. It was particularly heartening to meet new retailers and those who are planning to open a childrenswear shop in the near future. There have not been as many of you around lately, so I view your arrival as a promising development. NCWA also tries to widen its appeal to members, and I am delighted that we can once again offer discounted insurance premiums. If you are a member and would like details, contact Michelle Payne at the NCWA office, 3 Queen Square, London WC1N 3AR, tel: 020 7843 9488; fax: 020 7843 9478; email:; or visit

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BABSKI BABY Established last year, online retailer specialises in accessories for the 0-2 age bracket. The website retails a portfolio of labels including Beauty & The Bib, Inch Blue, Merry Berries and Millymook & Dozer across the shoe, hat and bib product sectors for babies. Less than a year on from its inception, the retailer has set its sights on national and international expansion, and has joined forces with a digital marketing agency to boost its online presence. “We have a number of brands we are targeting for the new season,� says managing director Nick Whitehead. “Our ultimate goal is to be the largest online boutique for 0-2 year-olds.�

NCWA Council: Chairman SHARON BEARDSWORTH Emile et Rose Manufacturer Vice Chairman DAVID HULL Agent Imm Past Chairman DAVID BURGESS David Luke Ltd Manufacturer Treasurer COLIN WILSON


Council Members: NUALA MCKENNA Nuala McKenna Agencies Agent. DIANE SHAW Agent. SARAH TAYLOR Agent. RAY WILLIAMS Agent. HANNAH MCHALICK Oh Baby London Manufacturer. MALCOLM TRAVIS Travis Designs Manufacturer. RACHEL RILEY Rachel Riley Manufacturer. JANETTE REED Cotswold Kids Retailer. VIRGINIA ROSS Pollyanna Retailer. President: KEN SCATES Marketing and sourcing consultant Vice Presidents: LESLEY FALLON Retail consultant JACKIE COOK Retail consultant Executive Director: ELIZABETH FOX

• Membership is open to everyone involved in the British childrenswear industry. • Associate membership, open to non-British organisations, is now available. Read our blog and follow us on Twitter

• Membership costs from £85.

August/September 2013


  Menswear label Douglas & Grahame presents a range for little gentlemen this summer with the launch of its s/s 14 collection by 1880 Club. Targeting the younger generation of gents with a range of formal clothing, the brand unveils a selection of formal two-piece suits in mix-and-match options in fresh shades of silver, blue and beige alongside more traditional black, navy and charcoal.

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Bursts of colour, meanwhile, are provided by the brand’s shirt collection, which is available in shades of purple, turquoise, red and lemon for the new summer season.

Childrenswear label Mafana Kids has illustrated its current collection with its first ever photo shoot, designed to show children living life in the brand’s key styles. Depicting pieces from both the boys’ and girls’ s/s 13 collections, the campaign includes newly introduced lines such as the boys’ navy gingham shirts.

Established in 2008, Mafana Kids works alongside communities in Madagascar to help improve their living conditions through providing regular work at fair reward.

Shade Me’s Baby Sun Shade has had a strong start to 2013, following its launch last year as a universal sun shade for most prams, buggies and strollers. The product, which was designed to offer parents value for money because it can be used across a range of travel systems as babies grow into toddlers, has also been awarded several accolades since its launch. After winning Gold in the Practical Parenting Awards’ New Product to Market last year, Shade Me was once again recognised for its innovation with its recent Bronze award in the Best Travel Invention category of the Loved By Parents Awards.

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Childrenswear label Pigeon expands its offer for autumn with the launch of a new acorn print across its range of rompers, reversible bonnets, bibs and blankets. Designed to celebrate the arrival of autumn, the new print is inspired by Scandinavian-style design, and is available across the brand’s signature Soil Association certified organic cotton children’s clothing. Established in 2004, Pigeon is an Oxfordshire company offering a baby range for newborn to three years and a collection targeting older children aged two to eight years. Previously Organics for Kids, the brand is committed to manufacturing from organic cotton, and currently has a presence in over 400 stockists nationwide.

“We have expanded our boys’ range in response to feedback from our retailers, which indicated that choice for boys’ clothes is much more limited,” says Emma Gamage, general manager at Mafana Kids.

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Hat label Merry Berries will expand its collection for s/s 14 with the addition of cardigans designed to co-ordinate with the label’s signature range of berry themed hats. Since its inception in 1989, Merry Berries has built upon its first design of a strawberry themed hat for babies with the introduction of further berry and fruit designs, each of which is hand-loomed and crocheted from 100 per cent cotton and finished with flat seams, sewn by hand.

An NCWA members-only, full-day seminar covering the safety of children’s clothing will take place on 19 September at the NCWA offices in London.

The collection now features 30 designs including raspberries, blackberries, apples, lemons, watermelons and pineapples, and the range of cardigans will be unveiled later this year for spring delivery in 2014.

              

BS EN14682: Cords and Drawstrings on Children’s Clothing and BS 7907: Code of Practice for the Design and Manufacture of Children’s Clothing to Promote Mechanical Safety, were both revised in 2007. BS EN14682 is, however, being revised again by the European Standards Working Group on Safety of Childrenswear, for which NCWA provides the secretariat. Places at the seminar, which includes question and answer sessions as well as demonstrations of garments that follow the Standards and those that do not, are limited. For a booking form or further information email

             

            


August/September 2013


5:1;"94  6&*266        

DISTRIBUTORS GAIN A NEW POWER Slowly but surely English court judgments are turning to favour distributors. The latest case to do so featured Manchester United branded fragrances and toiletries that were supplied by a UK supplier (which held the licence from Manchester United) to a Singaporean distributor. The distributorship agreement between supplier and distributor was for significant parts of the Middle East, Asia, Africa and Australasia. Before entering into the agreement and while it was performed, the supplier made various representations to the distributor. Although the distributor relied on these representations, some of them were untrue. Equally unsatisfactory were the actions of the supplier in that the supplier: 1. Made delays in the supply of the products 2. Withdrew some products after the distributor had started to market them 3. Failed to respond as it should have to the distributor’s enquiries 4. Tried to take back certain rights granted to the distributor 5. Provided false information to the distributor as to the price at which the products were marketed in Singapore. As a result, the distributor decided it could no longer accept the supplier’s actions. A serious (repudiatory) breach of the distributorship agreement by the supplier bringing the agreement to an end was alleged by the distributor. The distributor claimed damages. The supplier and the distributor had prepared the distributorship agreement. Consisting of just eight clauses, it could best be described as a short document. It was effectively

“term-lite” – in length not covering much more paper than the size of a large envelope. The court decided that the various breaches were not particularly serious with one exception. This was because the court considered that a duty of good faith and fair dealing was to be taken as implied into the distributorship agreement. Effective communication and co-operation between supplier and distributor was part of this duty in their performance of the agreement. By entering into the distributorship agreement in the first place the parties were bound to work together. So as far as the court was concerned, good faith and fair dealing are determined: (i) by the relational nature of the agreement; and (ii) by the standards of conduct to which, on an objective basis, the parties must have been expected to comply without their being stated. The court gave judgment for the distributor in its claim against the supplier for breach of an implied duty of good faith in the provision of information. As a result, the distributor was able to claim damages for wasted expenditure and for misrepresentation. The significant failures of the supplier to communicate and be honest about its own contractual and production positions enabled the distributor to overcome the fact that the distributorship agreement was silent on these issues. In the future it will possibly be the case that distributorship and other relational agreements will contain declarations that the supplier and distributor will deal with each other in good faith. But, until then, distributors can be expected to rely on this recent judgment when dealing with alleged failures by their suppliers in situations where the distributorship agreements do not expressly set out obligations on their suppliers. More particularly, savvy suppliers and distributors should engage in prevention rather than cure and state in their distributorship agreement the issues that are important to them so as to reduce uncertainty and the likelihood of future litigation. If they do not, they will most likely waste management time and incur legal fees.

     

COMBATING IN-STORE FRAUD IS CRUCIAL FOR RETAIL BUSINESSES For many customers, Chip and Pin and handheld point of sale (PoS) terminals have improved the shopping experience, but there are issues retailers need to be aware of around in-store payment technology. These are real concerns, evidenced by the impact that lax data security processes can have on retailers of any size, however pressure on retailers to respond comes at a time when they are having to look harder than ever at every investment. The retailer must ensure payment devices are secured, and also accommodate correct installation and security around the placement of the payment terminal position at the PoS environment. This is due to increased threats. Indeed, records show it only takes around 30 seconds to remove a card device and replace it with an identical one fitted with electronic skimmers. The threats are real and the requirement to mitigate them under the Payment Card Industry Data Security Standards (PCI: DSS) is critical if retailers want to avoid fines and a loss of customer confidence if data is stolen. Any security breach of payment card data has far-reaching consequences such as regulatory notification requirements and loss of reputation. Securing the PoS environment reduces the risk of theft, and replacement with an authorised terminal can prevent both data capture and the addition of skimming equipment while ensuring unattended PoS equipment and cabling cannot be removed or tampered with. By registering device key characteristics such as serial numbers, manufacturer and store location, retailers can ensure they are PCI compliant and reduce the risk of PoS theft and security breaches.

August/September 2013



 

 

 

 

   

 

 

How has the spring/summer 2014 buying season fared for you? — Really well – we’ve discovered some fabulous new British brands, which we will be adding to our range next year. We select the shows we attend by the number of brands we are interested in, or would like to look at, or to see new ranges from the labels we currently stock. We found the shows to be quieter in comparison to last year, but that was great for us as it meant we were able to take in more of what we saw and spend longer talking to the people behind the brands.

How has the spring/summer 2014 buying season fared for you? — We’ve increased our ranges within our current brands, taken on a number of new brands and increased our sizing options.

How has the s/s 14 buying season fared for you compared to past seasons? — I have found a lot more exciting suppliers this year, so our s/s 14 offering will be chock-a-block full of new brands.

How did you find the trade shows? — At KyNa Boutique we only stock organic clothing, so we look for the shows that have the widest range of organic products. This season we attended both Bubble London and Independent Kids.

Which was your favourite s/s 14 collection? — I think my favourite new brand is Milk & Rock (since rebranded to Wolf & Rita). Its clothing range is breathtaking, and a few items reminded me of an Ernst Haeckel print, which my husband fell in love with.

Which were your favourite s/s 14 collections? — Brit Chic Signature, Michiko and Me, Milliemanu and Lucas Frank as they stood out and addressed the needs of our customers. Michiko and Me and Milliemanu also stood out for their use of Liberty prints, which we are fans of. We loved Rachel Riley’s new swimwear range, too.

Which were your favourite collections? — There are lots of collections I’m looking forward to, but I fell in love with the Indikidual range as soon as I saw it and I am already excited about its arrival. Often we find great collections, but they are too heavily weighted towards girls, and there are brands we simply can’t stock for this reason. As a mum of three boys, it’s important to me to find an even collection of boys’, girls’ and unisex clothing.

Is there any product sector you struggled to find a wide enough offering in this season – boyswear for instance? — No, not for my shop. Ruff & Huddle does an awesome boys’ range now.

What feedback are you getting from your customers in terms of what they want you to stock? — Our customers have been asking us for clothing that is pan-seasonal, designed and made in Britain, and for styles that last as their children grow – for example, dresses that can become tunics and tops. Boyswear that is more formal and perfect for family events and occasions has also been requested as has unisex babywear. Longer lengths for taller children is something that is starting to become a common demand, too. What plans do you have in the pipeline? — We are very excited to be adding Marmalade & Mash to our collection for a/w 13, and will be extending our clothing age range up to 10 years. We’re also planning to introduce shoes as part of our offer from 2014.

Have you seen any recent changes in customer buying habits? — Our average orders have more than doubled in the last 12 months. I’d like to think it’s because we are giving our customers what they want – great quality clothing that’s designed well and lasts long enough to be passed down to siblings – but I also hope it’s a sign that the economy is improving. What plans do you have for your business? — We will continue to grow our existing brands and take on at least two new labels each season. We will also be increasing our age range from s/s 14.

What plans are in the pipeline for your business? — We'll be hitting our third birthday next April and the business is growing year by year. I want to expand the Look section of the website, which features wall art, and get lots of new exclusive posters. My long-term plans, however, are to open a cafe/bricks-and-mortar shop, where customers can come for a great coffee and create a piece of art with their child, a bit like Moomah in SoHo, New York, which is a child-friendly café with a craft work area. I was very inspired by that place. I’d really like to create a nurturing community for families, while also supporting independent designers and artists, by having a shop attached. I just need to find the investment and the plum spot.

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August/September 2013


/2.3&( -*/.,  

 

MY FUNNY BUNNY Eastgate Shopping Centre, Basildon, Essex My Funny Bunny is a new children’s clothing, gift, toy and accessories boutique, which opened for business in April 2012. Owner Monica Strydom has selected independent British designers for her store including Inch Blue, Pettisserie Pettiskirts, Stardust and The Little Green Sheep among others. Having small premises means Strydom has had to be clever with space and seek creative means to merchandise stock and catch customers’ attention. Fun and bright is the theme, with ample shelving and clothes lines on the walls to maximise display space. To encourage customer loyalty, Strydom produces newsletters with freebie and discount incentives – a promotion she continues in-store, whereby offers apply if a customer spends a certain amount. While the business already has an effective website, frequently updated with new stock, plans for growth include expanding the online presence further to become the main source of sales and, in particular, encourage worldwide sales.

August/September 2013



BEBE BONITO 12 The Arcade, Eltham High Street, London SE9 Opened in November 2011 by Terri Dean and Lisa Baker, Bebe Bonito covers children’s clothing, shoes, accessories and a baby offering of clothing, gifts and layette products. The boutique’s look is “shabby chic with a modern twist”, with product merchandised by colour across collections. Current brands stocked include Alves, Rochy, Room Seven, Paz Rodriguez, Little Duckling, Miranda, Granlei, Coccode, Home & Kids and DOT Delicate Baby.

MAISIE AND FRANK Station Approach, Hayes, Kent Sarah Garrard opened her children’s boutique Maisie and Frank in December 2012. The store’s product range extends from childrenswear, footwear and accessories to toys, jewellery, books, party goods and greetings cards. Brands meanwhile, include No Added Sugar, Pom Pom, Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, Little Joule, Abella, Kissy Kissy, Powell Craft, Early Days and Le Toy Van. A former florist, Gerrard has a keen interest in visual merchandising, demonstrated by her frequently changing themed window displays.  

HEI MOOSE While Annika Winstanley was on maternity leave, she began bringing over babywear from her native Finland – not realising it would turn into a newfound business. Winstanley launched Hei Moose in October 2011, offering Nordic-only brands for baby through to six years. In addition to well-known favourites such as Småfolk, Maxomarra and Villervalla, the store has exclusively introduced a number of labels to the UK including JNY Colourful Kids, Kram Barnklader and PaaPii Design.


  In celebration of the Royal Baby, London independent children’s retailer Trotters Childrenswear & Accessories has published its first ever book to record special new baby moments. Hand-illustrated and presented in its own gift box, Our Baby’s Book allows parents to fill the pages with photos and memories from the first years of a baby’s life.

  Independent baby gift and baby shower retailer has been voted Best Independent Retailer 2013 in the Loved By Parents Awards via, one of the UK’s most popular parenting sites. GooGooGifts, which launched a year ago, specialises in new baby gifts such as baby clothes bouquets handmade in the UK.

 EMPLOYEE THEFT ON THE RISE



           

          

             For more retail news visit


August/September 2013


      



Established in 2012, Australian girlswear label Dimity Bourke is available for two to eight years and centres on vibrant colours, glamorous bohemian style and luxurious fabrics. The collection comprises three ranges totalling 177 pieces: ready to wear, offering signature prints in cotton silk inspired by vintage saris; 100 per cent cotton jersey loungewear; and sleepwear in 100 per cent printed jersey, also finished in the brand’s distinctive prints. Wholesale prices £11-£27.

Manufactured in the UK, Edinburgh kidswear label Talking Threads launched in January offering colourful, comfortable, label-free clothing. Highlights include T-shirts featuring the brand’s own in-house illustrations, cuff ankle trousers – designed to be worn with boots and wellingtons – cardigans, printed leggings and sweaters. Initially available for two to 11 years, the brand is expanding its age range to include infant sizes as of this month. Wholesale prices £8.50-£26.




Established in 2010, US label Little Goodall offers a collection for 12 months to eight years as well as a line of coordinating pieces for women. With around 20 pieces per range, the brand’s focus is on whimsical animal-themed children’s coats that are high quality and creative, yet classically designed. Jackets and hats are also available as are dresses and playwear, newly introduced for s/s 14. Wholesale prices $12-$100.

UK children’s clothing and accessories label Skullduggery launched this year, offering a collection built around a core of bright colours designed to suit both boys and girls. There are two ranges available: Baby, for newborn to 12 months, including babygros, tracksuits, knitted booties, mittens and bobble hats; and Kids, for two to 6 years, consisting of T-shirts, leggings, sweatshirts, mittens, bobble hats and sunglasses. Wholesale prices £10-£20.

Brand new to market having launched in June, UK girlswear label Lucy Peach Slice provides easy-to-wear, classic designs with a modern twist. Catering for two to 12 years, the brand’s offer comprises dresses, skirts, trousers and T-shirts, with highlights including fabric designed from digitally printed personal photographs and T-shirts with handwritten messages. Wholesale prices £12-£30.


August/September 2013







August/September 2013


'"$  #$" #   01 Molo Kids 02 Mayoral

03 Ralph Lauren

03 Ricosta

02 Primigi

01 Lelli Kelly

Bestselling footwear brands

Bestselling boyswear brands

01 Molo Kids 02 Mayoral

03 Frugi

Molo Kids



Bestselling brands overall

01 Frugi

02 Kissy Kissy

03 Emile et Rose

Bestselling babywear brands

Bestselling girlswear brands 



August/September 2013


ď€?ď€?ď€?ď€–ď€˜ď€šď€?ď€?  

     In 2006, friends Lucy Enfield and Sophie Worthington had the realisation that the only way to dress their children as they truly wanted was to launch a clothing brand themselves. Both mothers had backgrounds in fashion – Enfield trained at the West London College of Fashion before taking up an apprenticeship with Sarah Spencer in New York, while Worthington’s first job was working for fashion designer and socialite Nona Summers – the duo launched UK girlswear label ilovegorgeous. Six months after the debut collection launch, the brand could count Kate Moss and Claudia Schiffer as customers, and Selfridges had opted for an exclusive. A Classic collection comprising vintage-inspired bridesmaid dresses was added to the mainline offering, followed by the opening of a London flagship store in December 2008 and an e-commerce site in February 2009. This year sees further developments for the business, including the opening of a second London boutique – with further stores and concessions in the pipeline – as well as the launch of a mobile app. Laura Turner spoke to brand designer Sophie Worthington to find out more.


LAURA TURNER: What’s the history behind ilovegorgeous? SOPHIE WORTHINGTON: Our first collection materialised in the summer of 2006. Co-designer Lucy Enfield and I travelled to India with the intention of creating a small capsule collection of girlswear using beautiful hand-blocked prints and soft cotton voiles. We initially sold the range via our network of friends, schools and home sales. It was so enthusiastically received that we decided to create a second line to see if our vision had legs. Very soon after, we acquired a wholesale agent and had the collection snapped up by Selfridges, as well as a handful of beautiful boutique shops, and ilovegorgeous was born.

LT: How many standalone stores does the brand have? SW: We have two standalone shops; the Notting Hill store has been open for five years and is well-known in the area with a very loyal clientele. We opened the Primrose Hill shop in June on Regent’s Park Road and have had a positive response from customers and locals.

In December 2008, ilovegorgeous opened its first flagship shop on Ledbury Road in London’s Notting Hill, with e-commerce site following not long after, introducing us to an international audience. ilovegorgeous opened a new standalone shop in Primrose Hill in June this year and our wholesale has also grown, with eight agents now representing the brand from the UK to the US and Europe.

LT: What is the “lookâ€? of the stores? SW: Eclectic and bohemian... a voyage of discovery with beautiful handcrafted window displays and hidden decorative touches. Window displays have included flocks of tiny papier-mâchĂŠ birds and butterflies, a curtain

LT: Do you have plans to open further standalone stores? SW: We have lots of exciting upcoming plans for ilovegorgeous, including opening more shops. We are looking into key areas now and will look to where we have already seen pockets of success.

August/September 2013



LT: Who is the target retailer for your wholesale? SW: For us, the key to a successful partnership is getting the brand profiling and store location right – these are our main focuses when considering retailers for wholesale. LT: How many wholesale accounts does the brand have? SW: There are around 200 accounts, of which quite a few are in the UK. The number of international stockists continues to grow at a healthy rate. LT: Are there any new territories you are targeting for wholesale? SW: We are a UK brand, so we are keen to go from strength to strength in the UK. There is a lot of interest from new international markets, so we are investigating those options in order to get it right and place the brand into the right markets.

   

of flowers, glitter-dipped shoes, vintage birdcages dipped in a rainbow of colours and a doll crafted from seashells. We like them to be an Aladdin’s cave of visual surprises. LT: How would you describe ilovegorgeous’ mainline collection? SW: ilovegorgeous was born out of a fascination with fabric, colour, trim, silhouette and a hint of sparkle, and these influences continue to feature within the collections. We love reworking classic pieces into something fashionable, fresh and fun and, as a result, we have become a go-to shopping destination for fashion-savvy childrenswear buyers. ilovegorgeous was initially famed for its partywear, but we soon started designing a more rounded offering that now includes dresses, knitwear, separates and accessories available from 2-3 years up to 12-13 years. Key pieces include the bold playsuits, iconic knits and chiffon print party dresses. There is an adorable babywear collection for 0-3 months up to 18-24 months and we also design a Classic collection, a successful range of bridesmaids’ and celebration dresses.

LT: What led to the launch of the Classic collection, and what does it comprise? SW: The fashion editors at Brides magazine picked up on one of the dresses from our a/w 07 range and featured it online and in the magazine as a recommendation. It planted the seed of creating a specific classic range using a soft palette and, luxurious fabrics. We loved the idea of creating beautiful, timeless pieces. Since we launched the Classic collection, it has grown in popularity with a dedicated area in our shops and online. Artist Sam Taylor-Johnson and husband, actor Aaron Taylor-Johnson, dressed their bridesmaids in ilovegorgeous for their wedding in 2012. We plan to grow the range via our wholesale market, with Barneys in NYC one of the department stores planning to add our Classic line to their 2014 ilovegorgeous buy. LT: Have you considered launching boyswear? SW: Often considered – not yet realised! LT: Who is the customer profile of ilovegorgeous? SW: We have a strong following of fashion-savvy parents who appreciate the unique design and attention to detail that ilovegorgeous offers. We are lucky enough to count among our customer base fashion leaders such as Stella McCartney, Kate Moss, Sienna Miller, Claudia Schiffer, Stella Tennant, Sam Taylor-Johnson, Elle Macpherson, Victoria Beckham and Thandie Newton.

LT: You launched an e-commerce website in February 2009. What has it contributed to the business? SW: E-commerce has raised the profile of the brand immensely, especially in terms of the international coverage. It has made ilovegorgeous more accessible worldwide and been a great platform for the imagery of the label – this is where the beautiful atmospheric images have come into their own. We are stocked overseas, but customers can buy directly from us, too. A high percentage of our sales come via e-commerce, and quite often shoppers have looked online before heading into our shops. There is a wholesale website, too, making browsing and ordering collections easy and efficient for buyers. We are very much aware of our multichannel offering, of which we have plans to design a beautiful online site. The key focus is to make our online offering as desirable and user-friendly as possible. Another key focus is getting the most efficient despatch and fulfilment times. LT: Can you tell me more about the mobile app you are launching? SW: A great number of our web users come to us via a mobile device, so we wanted to make the mobile shopping process as easy as possible. The new app will simplify our site and incorporate the kind of technology that makes mobile shopping so easy and successful. It also gives us a great platform to show the personality of ilovegorgeous via video content, social media and flip books. LT: Are there any other plans in the pipeline for ilovegorgeous? SW: Our main focus is to increase brand awareness and continue to grow, including conquering our home market and increasing our international presence. There are also lots of exciting marketing and PR plans in the pipeline for our brand.


August/September 2013


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ACID TEST Neon remains popular for childrenswear this season, seen as subtle flashes though to bold block colour. While this versatile and summery colour palette works harmoniously with casual everyday wear, it also proved popular as an accent on more formal pieces.

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TAKE A DIP Ombre or dip-dyed clothing was seen throughout s/s 14 collections, appearing across a range of garments and fabrics, including cotton, denim and knitwear. Choose from gradual, subtle fading or more defined, stark contrasts.

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FLORAL STANCE The ever-present floral trend included an ultra-feminine take this season, where floral prints were small and ditsy or delicate and classic. To remain in keeping with the vintage look, colours focused on muted, washed-out pastel shades.

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August/September 2013


MINTY COOL Flavour of the month in terms of colour this season was a fresh shade of mint green. Versatile and unisex, it works effortlessly across both boys’ and girls’ ranges, as well as on babywear through to teen lines.

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GET SHORTY This season, a key look for the summer staple that is shorts was the bloomer style for girls. This pretty yet practical garment ranged from casual plain jersey through to more formal cuts, complete with pleating and sash tie belts.

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PLAY DATE This casual and fun look is all about comfort and contemporary detailing. Think bold and quirky prints and detailing across harem pants, T-shirts and hoodies. In terms of colour, base shades of black, grey and white were key, highlighted with colour pops.

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HAWAIIAN KITSCH One of the beauties of childrenswear is being able to have fun with colour and design, and this retro look does just that with its vintage-inspired Hawaiian and tropical prints and kitsch icons. Garments paying homage to the look included sundresses and tie-waist shirts.

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August/September 2013

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 !!$%ď€ƒ Launched for s/s 14, Skribbies offers a new take on customised kids’ shoes. Thanks to the footwear’s special surface, children can use the brand’s stickers and wipe-off “magic pensâ€? to chop and change the look of the footwear. Wristbands, which have a loop to hold a magic pen, double as an eraser to wipe off drawings. The launch collection of hi-top, Velcro-strap trainers are available in pink/red, neon/black and blue/navy, and in junior size 10 to adult size three.


 % As well as a casual day trainer, the Hi-Tec Zuuk Junior is also suitable for light running and exercise. It benefits from a breathable mesh upper, a super lightweight EVA outsole for underfoot cushioning and comfort, and an Ortholite sockliner, also for increased cushioning, as well as offering anti-odour and anti-microbial properties. A ghilly and toggle lacing system eliminates the hassle of shoe laces as well as providing a secure fit.

The next edition of Bubble London takes place on 26-27 January 2014 at the Business Design Centre, Islington. For more s/s 14 Bubble London coverage visit

Making its debut at this season’s Bubble, and with launches planned in the US and Dubai, is high-fashion children’s footwear line Anasai. A couture offering made from high-quality leathers and with an eye for detail, the brand is also sensitive to the biomechanics of children’s growing feet. Design features include foam insoles, breathable materials and a frame built for supporting and promoting healthy foot development. A wide range of styles are available for boys and girls, with moccasins, sandals, pumps and Mary Janes featuring for s/s 14.

August/September 2013

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Originally known for its all-leather baby shoes, Australian footwear brand Old Soles has added layers and depth to its range, catering for the growing demand for design for toddlers and kids. Brand designer Vicki Lever produces collections that are fashion-inspired while keeping the health of growing feet a priority. Key styles include hi-tops that run from baby to the full rubber soles for bigger kids, zebra-printed leather sandals for girls, and crisscross sandals for boys.

Poco Nido offers both forward and short order on its cotton and suede infant “mini shoes”, which use water-based, non-toxic inks. The a/w 13 collection, now available short order, includes five new designs – dragons, hare & tortoise, fawns, bears and cross-stitch roses. In response to customer feedback, sizes have been increased up to 18-24 months and, from this month, a longer leg option is available on wellingtons. Over the next six months, the brand is looking to offer vulcanised, printed pumps for older kids.

$""% Making its UK launch at Bubble was the colourful Spanish range of kids’ sandals, Menorquinas by Castell. Manufactured in Menorca, Menorquinas were initially rustic sandals made from recycled tyres and in a single colour leather. Over time, these sustainable shoes have been refreshed with lighter rubber soles, a wide choice of bright colours and multiple skins. Magique is the exclusive distributor for the Castell range in the UK.

 $% Brand new to the UK market from Amsterdam is infant footwear brand Donsje, offering shoes and boots for children aged newborn to two years. Each handmade pair of shoes is designed for the healthy development of young feet. Leather soles are roughened and non-slip, while wide Velcro-fastened side openings allow the shoes to be easily put on and taken off. Styles are produced in lightweight, soft nubuck and suede and can be customised to order by mixing and matching soles, uppers, stitching and laces in a spectrum of colours.

"! !$%%"% The s/s 14 collection from Livie & Luca is all about the magic of exploration with designs including stars, bunnies, zebras, compasses and maps of the world. Materials this season are designed to capture the essence of summer and include shimmery light fabric, distressed denim, stamped suede, pretty lace and a touch of glitter.



August/September 2013


.0:;%0-1,1;"-%: 9";70:;0,0;874::7   

What is the role of the high street in today’s changing retail landscape? Can it survive against the rise of e-commerce, decreased consumer spend, out-of-town centres and the many other factors that are turning high streets up and down the country into deserted spaces? Can it evolve, find a new raison d’etre and become a central part of every town again? These were the burning questions at a recent High Street Conference organised by the British Independent Retailer Association (Bira). A series of talks by key industry speakers shed light on different aspects of today’s trading conditions and the effects on independent retailers from a cross section of industries. Topics discussed ranged from successfully establishing e-commerce alongside bricks and mortar through social networking to local town initiatives and more. The event kicked off with a presentation on Creating Demand for your Retail Brand by fashion indie Deryane Tadd, owner of St Albans store The Dressing Room. Tadd, who is one of the country’s leading fashion independents, gave an insight into how, in only eight years since launching, she has turned her store into a recognised brand, both on the high street and online. “Know your customer,” she said. “I have a very clear vision of who my customer is, and I have created a shopping experience that is directly tailored to her needs.” Tadd revealed that constant in-store and online initiatives and marketing activity keep her at the forefront of customers’ minds, as well as consumer and trade fashion press, and that this is a vital part of the continued development and success of the store. “Whatever you do, talk about it,” she said. “Tell your customers, tell trade press, chat to bloggers and people on social media. Just generally keep your voice heard and don’t let people forget you.” Having taken her store online in 2008, with a major relaunch in 2010, Tadd said that e-commerce had been a key factor in the growth of The Dressing Room and that she had invested a lot of time, energy and budget in getting it right. “However, I do believe it has strengthened my business,” she said. “I am certain that I would not have seen the growth in-store if I did not have a website.

Taking the multichannel route is certainly not the easy or cheap option. Remember, you are promoting your business to the world with your website.” Finally, Tadd closed with an optimistic view on the future of both her store and independent retailers. “It’s not easy being an independent retailer right now – it is hard work,” she said. “However, we are in a better situation than multiples because we can action change and we can evolve with the needs of our customers. Independent retailers are what make our UK high street so interesting.” Tadd’s presentation was followed by social commerce expert and Gloople founder Warren Knight, who offered a practical workshop on Demystifying Offline to Online Retailing. Knight advocated the art of “storytelling” by engaging with customers through Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and other social channels, creating a continuous dialogue that will help understand customers and ultimately drive traffic back to stores. “Technology has changed everything, except for what we do in human nature,” he began. “Technology has allowed us to share and talk in real time to tens of thousands of people at the push of a button. Think back 20 years ago, we had to make a call 1-1 or send a fax 1-1,” he said, encouraging the audience to take advantage of the technological advances.

your content to match their audience; Context – promote your business by adding value around the brand and not as a hard sell; and Confidence - build trust with your followers to get them to be brand advocates.” Dr Jonathan Reynolds, academic director at the Oxford Institute of Retail Management, meanwhile, offered an insightful overview of the changing face of the high street, and the complex structural change that has shaped it over the years. Reynolds cited a multitude of factors that have been contributing to the evolution of the high street, including the recession, changing consumer attitudes to spending and saving (more people still spend less and save more than pre-recession). Others included store format changes – for example, many supermarkets are now

Knight highlighted the importance of translating a store’s bricks-and-mortar personality to an online presence, too, building social interactions into the core of the customer user experience, enthusiastically making the case for social and e-commerce. “The UK is on top internationally when it comes to e-commerce, with 12 per cent of GDP generated by online sales, this puts us above the likes of Korea, China and the US,” he said. “Around £13bn is lost at the moment because businesses aren’t online. If you’re not going online, you’re losing money.” Knight shared his top five tips for successful social commerce, which were summed up by the five Cs: “Coverage – get your business present on all of the relevant social networks; Collection – always add more followers; Curation – allow your followers to customise

Deryane Tadd

August/September 2013



WHAT THE PANEL SAID launching smaller convenience branches and pop-up stores aimed at specific consumer and convenience needs – the accelerating rise in e-commerce and the ever-closing gap between real and virtual shopping experiences as contributing factors. However, Reynolds did not paint a depressing image, but rather explained that change is something natural and should be embraced by retailers of all sizes. “Embrace change,” he said. “Recognise and celebrate the strength of local independent retailing as an economic multiplier and a social multiplier. Collaborate to level the playing field. Innovation is everywhere, not just the monopoly of big firms. Technology is both a challenge and opportunity and the barriers to entry are low online. The future lies in the survival of the most adaptable – embrace the change.” “Local initiatives” that can improve business in town centres was the topic of Beth Ward’s talk. Ward, MD of Tippey Marketing & Events, is an authority on town-centre management in her role as town team special advisor for Yorkshire, Humber and the North East as well as a former Halifax town centre manager and executive director of Marketing Halifax. Ward shared her vast experience of boosting the footfall of Halifax high street by advocating that retailers need to work collectively, not as individuals. “This is not the time to think just about your shop and see others as competitors,” she said. “You need to work together. Treat your town centre as a destination. Get involved. It’s easy to criticise all the town teams, town-centre managers, Portas Pilots and so on. But how can you

Warren Knight

Kate Hardcastle

criticise something when you’re not involved yourself?” Ward cited examples of initiatives that have been successfully implemented in Halifax and subsequently boosted footfall across the town, including the Fiver-Fest. “We worked out that if every adult in the district would spend just £5 a week in their local shops, it would generate a total of £40m that would go directly back into the local economy,” she said. “It really helped make people aware of how much difference they can actually make. We developed the Fiver-Fest from there, encouraging local shops to have something on offer that people could buy for a fiver. It was a huge success.” Meanwhile, “queen of customer service” Kate Hardcastle, founder of the award-winning business transformation organisation Insight With Passion, offered an impassioned view on why customer service must be at the centre of retailing, both online and offline, and gave examples of successes and failures from local businesses across the globe. “Smile”, was her opening statement, something she believes is at the core of human interaction – and ultimately retail. “Humans want to deal with humans, so a smile makes all the difference,” she said. “Service must be paramount. You need to captivate with exceptional service. You need to be experts in retail and in your sector. Accentuate the positives, your retail store’s best features and embrace social interaction. The experience in your store needs to be fun, exciting, new and bold.” Hardcastle believes the high street will not disappear, but evolve – in fact, that “it has to evolve”, and the “evolution of the high street will be one of social interaction.”

Beth Ward

Jonathan Reynolds

The day was concluded with a panel discussion about The Great British High Street and what lies ahead for towns and local retailers across the UK. Panellists included Jonathan Hopson, CEO of Newbury department store Camp Hopson; Dr Jonathan Reynolds, from the Oxford Institute of Retail Management; Michael Weedon, Bira’s deputy CEO and communications director; and Chris Wade, CEO of Action for Market Towns. The discussion kicked off with the question, “Was the Portas Pilot a big waste of time?” The panel was undecided on the issue, with Jonathan Reynolds stating, “We academics are often accused of our reports gathering dust on shelves. What she [Mary] has managed to achieve is more attention for the cause than any academic report has had in years. However, she hasn’t had the tools to do the job properly.” This was mirrored by Michael Weedon. He said, “It’s got us on TV to talk about retail and it has been in the public eye ever since. It was important as a tool, but she could never have achieved what needs to be done, because she has no legislative power. I wouldn’t say it was a waste of money, because there wasn’t much money to waste in the first place, it was a drop in the ocean. We actually took the view that it was a mistake to bring money into this [Portas Pilots], because it turned it into a game of ‘how can we spend £100,000’ – and it’s not enough to do anything properly anyway.” Chris Wade also concurred, “We need to ask, which shelf is Mary’s report now gathering dust on? The report itself was good, but the big issues like business rates, parking, town-centre planning and out-of-town centres have not been acted upon and the government isn’t fulfilling its part of the bargain.” Jonathan Hopson concluded that only time will tell what impact – if any – the Portas Pilots will make. “The jury is still out on that. It’s not made a lot of impact on our business. The TV programmes themselves are probably also of more interest to retailers like us than to actual consumers. It has created a certain degree of awareness, but not much more.” Asked what the real, actual issues are that retailers are faced with at the moment, Hopson didn’t have to think long and hard. “Competition with out-of-town centres, the internet and attracting the right calibre of staff,” he said. This was reiterated by retailers in the audience. One retailer said, “Parking in towns is a real challenge,” while another member of the audience summed it up, “Rates, rents and parking are crippling us retailers. The government’s role hasn’t been mentioned. It can create the infrastructure and give us the tools to help develop our towns, but they are ignoring the real issues.” Jonathan Reynolds agreed, “Most local governments don’t get how important retail is to the local economy, which is why many are so inactive.” Concluding, Michael Weedon pointed out another key issue, “The crux of the matter is that people are getting poorer all the time, and this has had a huge effect on us all. People simply have less money to spend.”

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All prices are wholesale unless stated otherwise


August/September 2013



                

FLORSHEIM Boys’ footwear brand Florsheim offers a collection of smart and casual shoes, with highlights for s/s 14 including canvas with an espadrille edge, chukka boots with bright colour pops and occasion shoes for more formal requirements.




Ricosta focuses on functional and durable design for s/s 14 with a diverse range of footwear for children manufactured from materials featuring a waterproof, breathable membrane. The German label incorporates the latest technical innovations into its shoes without compromising on style that appeals to young minds.

Joules makes its Moda Footwear debut this season, bringing with it a range of children’s, men’s and women’s styles designed around its instantly recognisable identity as a lifestyle brand inspired by outdoor living. Wellingtons are key for the summer season, alongside casual pumps and brightly coloured loafers.

Primigi focuses on lightness for s/s 14, presenting a range of ultra-lightweight soles and uppers that promote maximum agility in the most active of children. Starting from children’s very first steps to footwear for juniors, the latest range comprises sandals, trainers and ballet flats in powdery pastel shades, neon details and summer bright tones of coral, turquoise and yellow.

August/September 2013


PEDIPED             

Pediped has three footwear lines each designed to meet the specific needs of a child’s walking stage – crawling, toddling and active – focusing on comfortable fit and healthy foot development. Grip ’n’ Go for active toddlers features the brand’s G2 Technology, complete with soft rubber sole, rounded edges mimicking the shape of a child’s foot, heel stability and a soft toe box to allow toes to grip the floor.




Embellished with sequins and multicultural decorations, Lelli Kelly builds on its instantly recognisable identity for s/s 14 with the introduction of new summer styles designed to capture the imagination of little girls. From the decorated Dolly in canvas and practical trainers through to the brand’s ballerinas and party shoes, each style features non-slip soles for practicality as well as style.

Froddo offers footwear across several lines adjusted to age and the anatomy of the child’s foot. The environmentally friendly s/s 14 collection is produced in vegetable leather, which is ecologically hypoallergenic and Chrome VI free. Extra flexible soles with anti-shock airbags, which soften the impact while walking and running, are also key.

Ipanema is set to show an eye-catching kids’ collection of sandals and flip-flops for s/s 14. For girls, feminine glamour is shown through metallic finishes, classic pastel tones and bold prints featuring butterflies, hearts, bows, and glitter. The classic flip-flop shape is present for boys, with bold colours, contrasting straps and graphic prints key.




Children’s footwear label Pippo relaunches its trainer line at this season’s Moda Footwear, revealing an all-new line of contemporary designs and vibrant colours. The new range offers a point of difference to the brand’s more classic offer of Mary Jane sandals and back-to-school shoes, which are also presented in a diverse range of colours and styles for the new season.

Surf label O’Neill makes its debut at Moda Footwear this season, presenting its Cali series for kids as part of its wider s/s 14 footwear offer. Featuring funky hi-tops, beach-inspired espadrilles and street-ready skate pumps, the collection focuses on eye-catching prints of toucans and hearts in line with its playful nature, tie-dye effects and rainbow colouring.

Launched in 2010, Chipmunks is an infant footwear label aiming to combine the fun and fashionable aesthetics of children’s fashion with styles designed to accommodate little feet while letting them grow without restrictions or pressures. This season sees the brand launch a range of mini-me classics including waterproof performance boots, Wellingtons and slippers.


August/September 2013


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Neon pink bracelet with charm £10.75 07958 492853

Long sleeve babygro and trouser set From $16 to $27 0016 465903767

Little Woollies jumper £28 07904 106883




Crochet animal booties £10 01270 625708

Ditsy bow hair clips £2.08 07855 755082

Customisable rubber belt with interchangeable buckle and waterproof marker £12.50 07890 822183


UK launch Moda, Stand U41 Contact: 01460 258040


August/September 2013


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BENCH £10, 020 7836 9312 —


 

OH BABY LONDON £16.50, 020 7247 9298 —

WOLF IN SHEEP’S CLOTHING From £18.40, 01842 819464 —

 

 

MARGARITE KIDS ¤27.60, 0034 951137547 —

LITTLE JOULE From £12.50, 01858 435258 —

Eskimo EPOS is the intuitive multi-channel, stock control retail solution suitable for single or multi-store organisations in most retail sectors including Clothing, Toys, Gifts. • Eskimo is an in-house developed retail solution • 10 years experience • UK wide customer base Call Gary Dyett on 01202 477111 Email: @EskimoEPOS


   


For trade enquiries and for the new SS14 brochure, call 0844 811 2322

August/September 2013


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47: News 54: Product focus: craftwear CWB’s pick of craftwear garments 55: The role of school uniform in today’s society Key findings from the Schoolwear Association Survey 2013

56: Retail Focus: Family values CWB takes a look at two family businesses offering schoolwear to discover the people behind the stores


August/September 2013


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Rachel Pettiford, founder of school sock brand Little Grippers, has been nominated in the Mumpreneur Awards 2013, a national business awards scheme for mums who run their own enterprises. Little Grippers launched earlier this year, offering school socks with 100 per cent natural and hypoallergenic “stay on technology� that help the socks remain in place.

ď€?ď€?ď€œď€Ľď€¨ď€™ď€› ď€&#x; GForce by Gymphlex has extended its range of customisable sportswear to include garments created specifically for dance. The range, which included skirts and vest tops, was developed in partnership with Go Dance Studios, an established dance school in Sleaford, Lincolnshire, servicing the Lincolnshire area.

Pettiford finds out this month whether she has made the finals, which take place in Birmingham on 28 September 2013. Little Grippers has also received a Gold accolade for its school socks in review website Bizziebaby’s 2013 Awards.

Go Dance approached GForce with a view to creating performance kit for its A-Squad cheer dance team. The said garments have now been rolled out as part of the GForce stock range of templates, available for customers to adapt to suit their own image requirements.

 ď€&#x;ď€&#x;ď€&#x; The Schoolwear Show on 13-15 October 2013 will bring further interest to visitors via new signings, a broader product range and enhanced services. Ten additional exhibitors will provide goods spanning footwear, socks, EPOS systems and stationery, while a new ground floor coffee shop will be available exclusively for Schoolwear Association members’ use. Additionally, new show website,, went live this month, providing a one-stop reference for all exhibitor news and visitor information. Displaying a fresh image, the site includes a new powered-up exhibitor search feature, a quick product search facility and added links to Facebook and Twitter (#SchoolwearShow) from the main pages and exhibitor profile pages.

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New footwear brand Anasai has a school shoe line that offers a unique, school-specific option. In order to make the footwear part of formal school attire, the shoes are able to be embossed, embroidered or printed with a school name and logo. Providing for children’s overall footwear requirements, the focus of Anasai’s offer is comfort – with the entire school footwear collection equipped with Impression Foam insoles – as well as style, price and paying special attention to promoting healthy foot growth and development. Anasai made its UK debut at children’s fashion trade show Bubble London in June, and has launches planned in the US and Dubai.

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The average cost of putting a child through state school in the UK is now £22,596 – that’s £1,614 per child, per school year, according to a new study by insurance provider Aviva. The Aviva Family Finances report revealed the annual bill for sending a child to state school has risen by 11 per cent in the last five years, although uniform is at the bottom end of the overall scale of costs. Basic school costs per child, per year, revealed an average expenditure of £558 for out-of-school care, £379 for transport, £369 for school dinners and £63 for text books. In comparison, school uniform costs £108 per child, per year, alongside £78 for school shoes and £59 for sports kit.

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This season, 1880 CLUB is continuing to build on its reputation by creating and presenting their most comprehensive range of Schoolwear yet. By ensuring every piece is built for the classroom, yet durable enough for the playground, the 2013 Schoolwear Collection is made for the long-term. Tel: 02893 327777 Email: Another quality brand from Douglas and Grahame

Proud to be hosting the Schoolwear Show at Cranmore Park for the 15th successive year, AIS is the largest non-food buying group in the UK. Members include Department Stores, Garden Centres and INTERSPORT sportswear stores; more than 70 members sell specialist schoolwear. Patrons of The Schoolwear Association







Blue Max Banner is the largest independent supplier of schoolwear in the UK. Come and view our biggest ever collection and pick up a copy of our brand new 2014 brochure. Tel: 0845 23 00 888 Email:

The UK’s No. 1 multi-brand distributor of promotional clothing, schoolwear, corporate wear and workwear. With over 45 market leading brands, massive stocks, great value and huge choice.

ď€Šď€Şď€—ď€¤ď€šď€€ď€Œď€“ High quality school knitwear: stock and bespoke soft-handle TPA 100% Acrylic, Wool-Acrylic, Wool-Nylon and our NEW COTTON-ACRYLIC blend. Quick and reliable deliveries. UK and off-shore manufacture. Tel: 01900 829 229 Email:

Caribee offers a wide selection of backpacks, schoolbags and accessories. Caribee have a reputation for great quality, stylish and practical backpacks that offer excellent value for money. Tel: 0131 554 5555 Email:







A brand quality, co-ordinated Teamwear range from stock, without the brand. We offer you continuity of supply with a variety of established styles, with no minimum order. Tel: 01619272565 Email:

The Chantry brand was established in 1951 to manufacture and distribute specialised knitwear and is now one of Britain’s leading Schoolwear Suppliers. Stock comes in a wide selection of colours, trims and bespoke embroidery options enabling uniforms to be custom made for schools. Tel: 02893 327777 Email: Another quality brand from Douglas and Grahame

Cartasport: UK made, skortz, skirts, ath. briefs, gym knickers, lycra shorts, special design football socks. Cricket & rugby clothing. Masita: Tracksuits, rain jackets, football jerseys/shorts, polo & T-shirts, Bags. Tel: 01535 600342 Fax: 01535 611489 Email: Web:







Specialist manufacturer, supplier, printer & embroiderer of school knitwear, sweatshirts and accessories. Tel: 01903 244863 Fax: 01903 700577 Email:

Cybertill provides EPoS and ecommerce systems to schoolwear retailers. Cybertill is web-based and allows retailers to manage their stock and business more efficiently from any location. Tel: 0800 030 4432 Email:

David Luke are a leading supplier of School Uniform and Sportswear to Retailers throughout the UK. With a focus on products with Eco credentials that make a difference environmentally through the supply chain; we’re #totalecool ! Tel: 0161 272 7474 Email:







Bespoke manufacturers of shirts, blouses, dresses, skirts, kilts, tunics and smocks. Made to the highest standards in the UK and offshore. Tel: 01226 738390 Fax: 01226 289140 Email:

Epos Now provide industry leading EPoS systems, EPoS software & accessories to over 2000 fashion and retail customers both in the UK and overseas. Tel: 0800 0 337 336 Email:





Eskimo EPOS is the multi-channel till and stock control solution with integrated e-Commerce for the Schoolwear Industry. Retailers across the UK are benefiting from the many Schoolwear specific features that come as standard with the Eskimo EPOS System. Tel: 01202 477111 Email:

  

Large stock range and specialist manufacturers of school clothing. We can develop your designs and supply the ready to wear garments complete with logo’s embroidery / print. New ranges for 2014. Contact: Ian Beach Tel: 0116 288 1105 Email:

This year sees Falcon stocking yet more colourways in the ever popular co-ordinated range, added to this range is a 1/4 zip sports top and a panelled weatherproof jacket. Look out for our new concept in a reversible rugby/games top. Tel: 01274 306440 Fax: 01274 390937 Email:

We can provide financial support to children whose parents work in the UK fashion and textile industry, where there is a particular case of need. Anna Pangbourne, Director Tel: 020 7170 4117 Email: Charity registration no: 257136







Gardiners offer a complete footwear range from wellingtons to school shoes including plimsolls and trainers backed up with a comprehensive range of accessories and bags. Tel: 01452 727300 Email:

As one of the most respected multisport manufacturers Gymphlex will be boasting the latest additions to our School Sportswear Solution and GFORCE range. Also available for immediate orders will be our GFORCE Plus stock brand. Tel: 0116 2556326 Email:

Established in 1919, Halbro is a leading sportswear innovator; A British owned European manufacturer, delivering the best lead times. Halbro design and produce high performance multisport school sportswear. Tel: 01204 696476 Email:







Helix offers a choice of 3 of the World’s most recognised educational brands. Oxford is traditional academic school equipment, Helix is technical school and Maped offer fashionable and innovative school products. Helix Trading Ltd, Building 92, The Pensnett Estate, Kingswinford, West Midlands DY6 7FP Tel: 01384 286860 Email:

Kwik Tapes complete label printing solution means that you can now produce a wide variety of labels, from iron-on and sew-in clothing labels to shoe labels, trophy labels and even ribbon printing. Please contact John or James Tel: 0121 689 2211

Little Grippers is a revolutionary new brand of School and Sports Socks that Do Not fall down! Our Stay On Technology is Hypoallergenic, Machine Washable, Breathable, and Dermatologists Approved. Tel: +44 (0)115 937 4303 Email:

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Lollipop’s extensive range of quality hair accessories for school enable stockists to gain valuable additional sales. Cotton mix, velvet and ginghams plus many styles of quality basics, all in 12 colours. Colour brochure available or order from our trade website where products can be seen in fine detail. Primrose Marketing Ltd Tel: 01494 447000 Fax: 01494 447052 Email:

The Preferred choice for Knitwear and Socks. Magicfit offer the largest range of School Socks, Tights and Sports Socks as well as their unique and often imitated Magicfit School Knitwear in plain colours or with special trim. Magicfit, the preferred choice. Tel: 0116 2779789 / 2773857 Fax: 0116 2784395 Email:

Marathon specialise in schoolbags, sportsbags & chiropractic backpacks, with almost 25 years of experience providing high quality products that are comfortable and practical. Marathon - Better in the long run. Tel: 01932 359 188 Fax: 01932 359 189 Email:







Textile manufacturers Marton Mills offer a wide range of compositions and designs when choosing school wear fabric. Tel: 0113 2843364 Email:

The National Weaving Company; High Quality Woven Name Tapes and labels. Identification labels for schoolwear and sportswear. Iron on and self adhesive labels also available. Proudly Manufacturing in the UK for over 20 years! National Weaving Ltd, Redstone Mill, Redstone Road, Narberth, Pembrokeshire SA67 7ES Tel: 01834 861446 Fax: 01834 861757





OPRO offer the ultimate self-fit mouthguard range available with great margins achievable. OPRO360 rugby body protection and headguards. Mueller Sports supports and medical accessories. Tel: 01442 430690 ext.1042 Email:

  

Orion specialise in team & leisure wear.. Our high quality, short delivery times and value for money pricing alongside outstanding customer service all stand us apart from the competition. Our in-house design team can produce bespoke logos, themes and even design kit from scratch to your exact requirements. Tel: 0191 266 7651

TomTag, invented by Orkid Ideas, is a colourful daily checklist that helps kids remember what to take to and from school. Clip it to any school bag then just check, pack and go! Email: Tel: 01904 213 123

Suppliers of Schoolwear, and in particular knitwear, plain or bespoke with special stripes. Speedy personalised embroidery, quick delivery, small minimums, and excellent customer care. Tel: 0161 477 7791 Email:







School socks and tights in every colour and design and always in stock, for the best quality and service. New online ordering at Tel: 0116 2861616 Email:

Quality footwear since 1976. With a reputation for quality leather school shoes at competitive prices, Pod footwear will be previewing their infants', boys'/men's (up to size UK17) & girls' Back to School 2014 collection. Tel: 01234 240 440 Email:

Ubiquitous nametapes for schoolwer shops, no administration, fulfilment direct, modern iron – on nametapes save hours of pre term sewing in. Tel: 01460 258040 Email:







Supplying quality fabrics to the public and commercial sectors since 1964. With the acquisition of Wittrex International, a specialist in development and manufacture of school wear fabrics we have become one of the premier UK stockists. Tel: 0044 161 727 4470 Email:

Ram Promotions Ltd has been specialising in textile printing since 1993 supplying trade only. In the last year we have started a promotional merchandise department We can now offer our clients a One Stop Shop when it comes to promotional merchandise. Tel: 01277 366 164 Email: Twitter: rampromotions


 





RHINO caters for all sports, including rugby, football, hockey, lacrosse, netball, basketball and volleyball. Our range includes playing kit, tracksuits, rain jackets, polo shirts, t-shirts, shorts, hooded tops, base layers, bags, headwear and socks. Tel: 02920 225614 Email:

Russell’s schoolwear brand Jerzees Schoolgear has been a leading, quality player in the market for many years and prides itself in “Ticking all the Boxes” particularly when it comes to Lifetime Value and Stock Availability. Tel: 07793 801675 Email:







With our UK based in-house Bespoke Manufacturing we can offer you a quick turnaround, consistency in colours, styles & quality designed to your specification or adapting our stock designs. Tel: 01274 668045 Email:

STABILO have developed a range of ergonomic products that have a different version for left and right handers. From starter pencils to a ballpoint pen with integrated touch-screen stylus, the range focuses on comfort and efficiency to help children when they are both learning and improving their handwriting. Tel: 01753605656 Email:

We offer a full range of sports equipment, clothing and accessories. The Precision Training range of textiles includes a wide range of football socks and our best selling shadow stripe short. The range also includes tracksuits, rainwear, team wear and our exclusive range of ladies polo shirts and skorts. Unit 17, Easter Park, Lenton Lane, Nottingham, NG7 2PX Tel: 0115 900 2342

Meet the SA team. Hear our plans for 2014. See what we are doing for the industry. Tell us how we can serve you better.

Target Dry’s collection for 2014 includes the new Carter boys’ and Charlotte girls’ coats. Perfect for casual and schoolwear, with the usual Target Dry high quality and excellent value. Stand contacts Ian Ambler and Colin Adams. Tel: 028 90 790588 Fax: 028 90 792164 Email:







TheMagicTouch Toner based image transfer process enables the decoration and personalisation of a vast range of printable items including garments, textiles and so much more using professional heat pressing equipment, Colour Laser Printers and Copiers and coated Image Transfer Papers. David Pearce, National Sales Manager Tel: 01582 671444 Email:

Specifically designed for the school wear retailer, Top to Toe is a clear, well structured, stock management and Epos system. The system provides full size and colour tracking, size/colour matrix throughout, instant look ups, EPOS tills, automated web linkage, customer records, analysis by school, supplier and much, much, more. Tel: 0845 130 3535 Email:

Toughees leather school shoes have been manufactured since 1954. High quality, great value school shoes for boys and girls with in-stock availability, excellent margins and no minimum orders. Toughees school shoes... go the distance! Tel: 01202 707 461 Email:


 




 Trutex will be unveiling several new products including an innovative shirt and blouse designed specifically for the junior market. The company will also be launching 2 new designs for the AKOA made to order range, as well as several additional stock styles and colourways. Find out more – speak to: Mehmet Abdullah Email: Tel: 07557 019818

William Turner & Son look forward to welcoming you on to Stand 2 where our full range of UNICOL schoolwear accessories will be on display including ties, bags, winterwear, craftwear and much more. Tel: 0161 480 8582 Email:

William Lamb is a privately owned business that has grown since 1887 to become a leading footwear distributor. We will be showing: Buckle My Shoe, our premium leather school shoe brand. Goody 2 Shoes, our budget range. Licenced school shoes, including Hello Kitty, Peppa Pig, Minnie Mouse, Spiderman and many others. Tel: 01924 836954 Email:

 






Full “Stock Supported” ranges are available from Winterbottom Schoolwear including School Blazers, Shirts & Blouses, Girls Pinafores, Skirts and Trousers, Boys Shorts and Trousers, Knitwear, Sweatshirts, Polo Shirts and Outerwear. Plus Specials Made to Order. Cultural Uniform new for 2013. Tel: 01254 390700

Wren Schoolwear is an independent manufacturer of school dresses, blouses, tunics and skirts using long established British fabrics made to customers own individual requirements. Contact: Keith Farrer Tel: 01206 841222 Fax: 01206 841118 Email:

Schoolwear suppliers. Range includes school skirts, pinafores, girls trousers and bootleg, boys trousers, shorts, t-shirts & polo’s, sweatshirts & knitwear, gingham dresses & accessories, hair accessories, leotards, rugby jerseys & football shirts, socks & tights, plimsolls, swimwear, bags & belts, ties, blazers & jackets, aprons & outerwear. Stock all year round. Tel: 01708 739 390 Email:

          

New for 2014 – available from stock NOW. Come and see our extensive range of school bags at the Schoolwear Show.

For more information contact

Jacquie Sandison Brand Agility Ltd, 35 West Bowling Green St, Edinburgh EH6 5NX Tel: 0131 554 5555 Fax: 0131 555 2426


August/September 2013


("$2(% )/3.'23/  WILLIAM TURNER & SON A key product from William Turner & Son’s craftwear range is its Unicol craft apron. Made from 100 per cent heavy cotton drill, it is available in two sizes – Standard (28in x 24in) and Youths (28in x 24in). There are four colour options to choose from – navy and white stripe, navy, unbleached, and white – and every apron is presented in an individual hanger bag.

DAVID LUKE David Luke’s splash-proof paint overall is made from tough, woven nylon fabric with a breathable PU inner coating. It has a vent in the back across the shoulders for maximum comfort and a front Velcro fastening to make the garment simple for a child to put on by themselves. Large stock holdings are available in four main colours – royal, red, bottle and navy – with maroon and purple also available. Sizes range from 3-4 years up to 13 years.

LARKWOOD Larkwood’s water-resistant painting smock features a Velcro back fastening, long sleeves with elasticated cuffs and two patch pockets on the front to hold spare paintbrushes. Available in navy and in two sizes – S/M and M/L – the smock protects clothing while offering flexibility to move around.

BLUE MAX BANNER Blue Max Banner’s multi-purpose, unisex apron is made from hardwearing cotton drill fabric and comes in a choice of white, navy or unbleached cotton. It has a patch pocket to the front, which is divided into two separate compartments and a herringbone tape strap and ties. Bespoke designs are available via Blue Max Banner’s Made to Order department in Nottingham. Minimum quantities apply.

INNOVATION The PVC painting apron from Innovation is made from 100 per cent PVC and features long sleeves with elasticated cuffs. Available in the colour options of red with a royal-blue trim or royal blue with a red trim, sizes for the garment are 3-4 years (24in), 5-6 years (26in), 7-8 years (28in) and 9-10 years (30in).


August/September 2013


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.0:;49+:;9";8%099+ 1,"94;,1; 79-#8;89%,:7# ď€™ď€­ď€˜ď€€ď ď€ľď …ď€šď€ľď †ď ‚ď€€ď ƒď€¸ď€ľď€€ď€şď€ľď ˆď€€ď€śď€šď€˝ď€´ď€šď€˝ď€ˇď ‚ď€€ď€śď ď€žď€źď€€ď ƒď€¸ď€ľď€€ď€Šď€łď€¸ď€žď€žď€ťď †ď€ľď€ąď ď€€ď€—ď ‚ď ‚ď€žď€łď€šď€ąď ƒď€šď€žď€˝ď€€ď€Šď „ď ď …ď€ľď ˆ ď€?ď€‹ď€Œď€Žď€‡ď€€ď †ď€¸ď€šď€łď€¸ď€€ď ď€ľď …ď€ľď€ąď€ťď ‚ď€€ď€żď€ąď ď€ľď€˝ď ƒď ‚ď Œď€€ď€ąď€˝ď€´ď€€ď ƒď€ľď€ąď€łď€¸ď€ľď ď ‚ď Œď€€ď€žď€żď€šď€˝ď€šď€žď€˝ď ‚ď€€ď€žď€˝ď€€ď ‚ď€łď€¸ď€žď€žď€ťď€€ď „ď€˝ď€šď€śď€žď  ď€ąď ‚ď€€ď †ď€ľď€ťď€ťď€€ď€ąď ‚ď€€ď †ď€šď€´ď€ľď ď€‡ď€€ď ‚ď€žď€łď€šď€ąď€ťď€€ď€šď ‚ď ‚ď „ď€ľď ‚ď€€ď€ťď€šď€˝ď€şď€ľď€´ď€€ď †ď€šď ƒď€¸ď€€ď ‚ď€łď€¸ď€žď€žď€ťď †ď€ľď€ąď  A recent survey by the Schoolwear Association (SA) saw the trade body take a detailed look at the opinions of parents and teachers across the UK regarding school uniform and associated issues of discipline, behaviour, quality and safety. The poll, conducted for the SA by online researcher OnePoll, highlighted the fact that parents and teachers are in agreement that uniform can improve behaviour in the classroom, and that school-specific uniform is better quality than its non-branded counterpart. It also underlined the fact that most parents believe a child in a badged uniform goes to a better school than a child in a non-badged uniform. In terms of discipline and behaviour, the views of parents and teachers surveyed were unanimous with regard to the role uniform plays. Seventy nine per cent of parents believe school uniform helps maintain discipline in schools – just nine per cent of parents disagreed – while more than 83 per cent of teachers stated they would prefer their students to be in school-specific uniform. This is a preference probably strengthened by the fact that a third of teachers confirmed non-uniform days bring out bad behaviour in their students and the fact that, according to those teachers surveyed, children in school-specific uniform tend to be the best behaved, with only seven per cent of the most badly behaved pupils being in school-specific uniform.

“I agree that uniform can create a sense of identity, but it takes more than clothes,� says former teacher and independent child and educational psychologist Teresa Bliss. “A true sense of identity is fostered by significant others who give clear signals about an individual’s value and worth. Uniform is a badge of belonging but, without the social and emotional input to support it, this uniform per se, is valueless.� In the same vein, while school uniform can help limit peer pressure and go towards creating a sense of identity among school pupils – with 67 per cent of parents stating school uniform makes their children feel all-equal – it is, of course, one single element of a bigger picture. “I know the arguments that school uniform makes children feel more equal but children find all sorts of ways, just as adults do, to impose a hierarchy,� says Bliss. “As a director of the Anti-Bullying Quality Mark-UK (, I am very conscious of the fact that bullying happens at all social levels and in all kinds of schools. In fact, children from wealthier parents have greater access to modern technology and are more likely to be subjected to cyber bullying, for instance.�

“A uniform that is specific to a school creates a sense of belonging, looks smart and makes the child feel ready to work hard,� says Matthew Easter, SA chairman. “It can even help bullying, by putting children on an equal footing regarding what they wear to school.�

Ninety-five per cent of parents stated that the quality and longevity of a uniform is paramount, especially as on average children spend nearly two hours in their uniform after school has finished for the day. With this in mind, 55 per cent of families go through between three to five garments of uniform, per child, per year, and over a third of parents would replace their child’s damaged uniform straight away.

While uniform can certainly be recognised as part of the solution in helping improve behaviour in schools and in creating a sense of unity amid pupils, there are, of course, other supporting factors that need to be present.

With quality and longevity around the top of the priority list for parents, it is therefore no surprise that 75 per cent of parents agree a specialist school-specific uniform is better quality than a non-branded counterpart.

Two-thirds of parents asked agreed they would buy branded school uniform with a badge for their children and that a child wearing a uniform with a badge looks smarter than a child in a non-badged uniform. In terms of what parents are willing to pay for a uniform, over 33 per cent said they would be prepared to pay up to ÂŁ70 more than the average cost of a secondary school uniform for their children. For parents of primary school children, the expected cost of uniform is much higher than the real price, with 47 per cent of parents revealing they would be prepared to pay up to ÂŁ60 more than the actual average cost of just ÂŁ38. With regard to the role school uniform plays in school loyalty and safety, over a third of parents feel one of the benefits of school-specific uniform is the ability to recognise which school a child is from, with one parent adding it can help to spot truants. On the flip-side, Bliss refers back to the base role of parents and schools in establishing good behaviour in the first place, and in helping to avoid children seeing school uniform as “a convenient battle ground.â€? “Good discipline comes from a positive inclusive ethos, where school staff offer exemplary role models,â€? she says. “And of course discipline is likely to be even better when children have good, consistent discipline at home.â€? Together with the aforementioned positive supporting factors, school uniform is undoubtedly a powerful tool in helping to improve behavior in today’s schools, as Easter confirms. “Behaviour is a huge issue in schools, and this survey shows a proper uniform is part of the solution, with 83 per cent of teachers preferring their class to wear it,â€? he says.


August/September 2013



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  

  CWB takes a look at the career of independent retailer and industry figurehead David Coe, who recently received Honorary Membership to the British Independent Retail Association, an accolade bestowed on those members recognised to have gone above and beyond their call of duty for retail.

Although being born into a family business is far from unusual, being born inside the four walls of a family business is slightly more of a rarity. But, for Ipswich retailer David Coe, being born above his father’s shop, Coes, in 1938 provided him with an introduction into an industry that he has not only flourished in, but become an integral part of.

and showing out-of-the-ordinary support for their industry.

“I was born just above the shop and slept in the cellar during the early part of the war,” says Coe. “I was only four and already folding handkerchiefs on the shop floor. I left school at 16 with five O Levels and started National Service in 1956. But within weeks my father sadly passed away, so at 18 I was given compassionate leave and subsequently thrust into running the family business.”

With over 80 years of experience in supplying schoolwear to schools and colleges, Coes offers everything from blazers, skirts and trousers to footwear and accessories. As well as stocking school-specific uniform from suppliers such as Blue Max Banner, Charles Kirk, David Luke, Pex, Trutex and William Turner, Coes also has a general schoolwear offer as well as a wide choice of sports kit for both boys and girls that includes everything from sweatshirts and tracksuits to mouth guards and socks. Most school-specific items of uniform are available through the retailer’s website, alternatively customers can visit the retailer’s Ipswich branch.

Fast forward 56 years and it’s fair to say Coe’s knowledge and experience of retail is second to none, having being awarded Honorary Membership at the recent British Independent Retail Association Conference – the highest accolade the industry body has for its members for going beyond the call of duty

Not one to shy away from social engagements, Coe has become a leading figure in his home town over the years. He has undertaken roles including chairman of the local school governing body, chairman of the local sports club, vice chairman of the local building society and treasurer of the historical

churches association – all, we must remember, while running a thriving business and being a father of four. Over the 85 years since it was established by Coe’s father, William David Coe, the shop has grown from a small town-centre menswear hub on Ipswich’s Norwich Road to a multiple independent retailer of menswear, womenswear, schoolwear, sportswear, gifts and accessories and men’s formal hire with stores across East Anglia. Having acquired Goddard’s of King’s Lynn and, at the age of 60 during his first year of retirement, purchasing Golding of Newmarket, Coe can still be found working the shop floor. William Coe, David’s son and fellow director of Coes, sums up the general feeling. “Dad has been an inspiration, not only to me, but to many people in the industry – within our business and the trade in general.”

August/September 2013



  Gill Phipps, owner of established Solihull schoolwear shop Early Years, offers a retailer’s perspective during the busy Back to School period. Every year, around the longest day, Gill Phipps’ father, the founder of Early Years, would go to his GP with an illness. Each time it was a different ailment, but the doctor spotted the annual pattern and realised it must be stress-related. Indeed, it was. The month of June was when the family’s schoolwear store began bracing itself for the Back to School onslaught as parents rushed to clothe their children ahead of the new term. Today, Gill Phipps runs Early Years, having taken over the business from her father, and she is now in the midst of another frantic summer. “It is the same every year,” she says. “At this stage in August, it is packed. We have to close the doors so the assistants can move around and serve people. Parents always say that next summer they’re not going to leave it until the last minute, but they always do.” According to Phipps, there are three main reasons why parents leave school-uniform shopping to the last minute: the arrival of the holidays, which means school demands drop off the radar; parents delaying the uniform shopping expedition until closer to the start of the school year to see if their child’s size changes; and hard-pressed families who want to put off the expense. From experience, however, Phipps has seen that all of these approaches are false economy, often ending up costing parents more time and money. “It makes sense to buy early to avoid the rush and ensure there aren’t any last-minute problems,” she says. “It will also remove the stress of having to fight your way through the queues and crowded shops. Also, if there are any special requirements, it means there is time for them to be resolved, avoiding extra expense or stress.” As an independent retailer, Early Years specialises in coping not only with parents’ last-minute demands at Back to School time, but also in retaining stock all year round so that parents can replace items of uniform that are lost, damaged, or grown out of. It’s what sets independent retailers apart from chain stores and supermarkets, who pile it high close to Back to School time, but aim to clear the shelves by the time the pressure is really on and move on to their next promotion. “We always have, as far as we possibly can, all the garments the children need for all of the 68 schools that we serve,” says Phipps.

“Schools who want to change uniform late in the academic year always say it doesn’t matter if the uniform isn’t ready for day one, but it does matter a lot to the children and that’s what keeps me focused.” Part of the culture at Early Years is to provide a level of personal service that chain stores can’t match because ultimately, customer service is the bedrock of the business. As well as retaining stock, another specialist service is embroidery, which the store’s team is able to do in-house. This service allows the retailer to give customers quick turnarounds and fulfil special orders, accommodating all school uniform needs under one roof.

understood by the 20 or so extra staff that we take on every year to help us with the busy period.”

When it comes to coping with the wildest peaks of demand, organisation is ultimately the key.

Having strong links with her manufacturers through the Schoolwear Association, whose members between them clothe millions of school children and of which Phipps is an active member, is also a key element of what helps the business run smoothly. For last minute and special orders – for instance particularly large or tall children – Phipps is able to order directly from her suppliers and receive the uniform in a matter of days.

“We have systems that we’ve developed over the years that enable us to find the right size, the right uniform and the right badge for any child at a moment’s notice,” she says. “We've also developed a system that is easily

“The shapes and sizes of children are always changing,” she says. “We have a lot of overweight children and also smaller children, and uniform is only uniform if everyone is able to wear it and it is of a high quality standard.”


August/September 2013



*3$26; * $2/6

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0: 4 Funky Flavours 0031 495498330 A: Anasai 0091 9820024988 : Angulus 07855 509069 B: Bench 020 7836 9312 : Blue Max Banner 0845 230 0888 : Bóboli 01772 603912 : Bonnie Baby/Bonnie Kids 01273 227779 : Brit Chic Signature 01834 826213 : Bulle de BB 0033 442469212 C: Castell 07887 750276 : Chipmunks 01925 212212 : Corby Tindersticks 07834 270320 : Cofucu Baby 0081 9092474308 D: David Luke 0161 272 7474 : Dimity Bourke 0061 280956462 : Donsje 07958 492853 E: Emile et Rose 01509 881300 F: Florsheim 01953 851190 : Froddo 01727 760101 : Frugi 01326 572828 : Fun & Fun 0039 815108436 G: Grubbies 07909 017664 : Gymphlex 01507 523243 I: I Love Gorgeous 01748 822055 : Immink 01328 853458 : Indikidual 07882 178873 : Infoband 01264 782665 : Innovation 020 8887 8778 : Ipanema 01992 701832 J: Jammies 0016 465903767 : Jewel Rocks London 07958 492853 : Joules 01854 435229 : Juliet & The Band 07887 843523 K: Kissy Kissy 01442 248099 : Kite 01202 733222 : Knot 0035 1934960477 L: Larkwood 0800 252 248 : Lelli Kelly 0039 05834311 : Lilly + Sid 07985 162337 : Little Goodall 0012 143162133 : Little Grippers 07803 613987 : Little Joule 01858 435261 : Little Titans 07786 071667 : Livie & Luca 07834 225558 : Loud Apparel 020 72412456 : Lucy Peach Slice 07443 455472 M: Margarite Kids 0034 951137547 : Mayoral 01277 227427 : Merry Berries 01494 447000 : Michiko and Me 020 8123 0595 : Micumacu 0034938757336 : Milk and Rock (now Wolf & Rita) 0035 1936010990 : Milliemanu 020 8878 7863 : Mini A Ture 020 7348 7316 : Miss Hall 01249 819744 : Molo Kids 07718 987756 : Mud Pie 01270 625708 O: Oh Baby London 020 7247 9298 : Oilily 0031 725127552 : Old Soles 07834 225558 : O’Neill 01273 687788 P: Pediped 07703 856072 : Pigeon 01865 379230 : Pippo 0191 246 1474 : Piupiuchick 0035 1913497102 : Poco Nido 07941 089702 : Price & Buckland 0115 964 0827 : Primigi 0039 0755028239 : Project Jelly 07961 986806 Q: Question Everything 07815 145459 R: Rachel Riley 020 735 7007 : Ralph Lauren 020 7535 4600 : Ricosta 0116 259 7427 : Ruby & Freddies 07904 106883 : Rockahula 07855 755082 S: Skimp 07890 822183 : Skribbies 020 3287 2944 : Skullduggery 07811 158931 : Sunuva 020 7286 3939 T: Talking Threads 07546 714507 : Tootsa MacGinty 07977 239817 : Trutex 01200 421205 W: Wolf in Sheep’s Clothing 01842 819464 Z: Zuuk 01702 541741



August/September 2013






     

           

   


  

   

   


 



School Scho Sc hoo ho o l Ties Tie ies s & Accessories A ccessorie ies s

       

Schoolwear Scho Sc hoo ho o lwea wear r Accessories Acc A cce esso ssorie sso rie ies s www .unicol-schoolwear Tel: T el: 0161 480 8582 sales@william-turner

 

Soft leather shoes designed to give total comfort for little growing feet +44 (0)1495 311123

TIE & SCARF COMPANY    SCHOOL TIES  

  

        


 

   

 % $!$%!%$% %!$  % "$$%""%$"$%  • Soft Leather Shoes • Handmade in England • No Minimum Order


Tel: 01509 817600




August/September 2013


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)';0*1+.110% .0:;:88:17,-+;,1:;79;-:178;-1;8094998;,1;70:; ;;&4:+-1 NORTH EAST




Showrooms will be held in Leeds, Manchester and London for further info contact Bib Sohel Tel 07850 754 853 email DESIGUAL, FORE!! AXEL AND HUDSON, LEMMI, BEBE BY MINIHAHA, DARCY BROWN, SUGARLOAF KIDS, MINI VANILLA, MINI ZZZ A diverse selection of highly desirable brands for UK independents and stores from baby to 16yrs. European distributor for Fore!! Axel and Hudson.

Bizspace Business Centre, Unit 203, 4-6 Wadsworth Road, Perivale, Middlesex UB6 7JJ Tel: 020 8567 2384 Mobile: 07971 190446 Fax: 0800 007 3359 Email: PRIMIGI SHOES, FALKE & BURLINGTON SOCKS AND TIGHTS, GIESSWEIN HOME SHOES Covering the whole of the UK with London based showroom and offices.


ď€?ď€&#x; Weldon Agencies, Carr House Business Centre, Carr House Lane, Bretherton, Lancashire, PR26 9AR Tel: 01772 603912 Email: NO NO, S & D LE CHIC, DEUX PAR DEUX, ABSORBA / CONFETTI, BOBOLI, POM POM, FUN + FUN, FOQUE Established for over 25 years, two generations, covering all areas of the UK. Representing leading brands from Europe and Canada, catering for boys and girls 0 to 16 years. Styling from contemporary to traditional.


ď€&#x; The Old Barn, Shurnhold Farm Business Park, Bath Road, Melksham, Wiltshire SN12 8DF Tel: 01225 700699 Mobile: 07785 290154 Email: Web: MIM-PI, PAGLIE



ď€&#x;ď€?ď€?ď€&#x; 5 Evelyn Grove, Ealing, London, W5 3QG Tel: 0208 992 0552 Mobile: 07860 230918 Fax: 020 8993 6568 Email: Web: ABELLA, CATYA (IT), CO CO AND LITTLE DARLINGS Manufacturers’ and Distributors’ Agent - Northern and Southern Home Counties, including London Postal districts. NCWA and APSA member.

Unit H7 & H7a, Capital House, 2 Michael Road, London SW6 2AD Tel: 0207 348 7316 Email: Web: MINI A TURE, TOFFEE MOON, LILLE BARN, AYA NAYA SoLoBi represents modern high quality children’s brands with a playful attitude and sharp attention to detail. Offers very good and transparent service.

ď€˜ď€¨ď€›ď€&#x;ď€&#x;ď€?ď€&#x; 19 Addison Grove, Chiswick, W4 1 EP Tel: 078 5550 9069 Fax: 02081816458 Email: ANGULUS AND BOBUX SHOES, CLOTHES FROM CHRISTINA ROHDE, MILIBE, VER DE TERRE, FUB CHILDREN’S WEAR An agency representing classic, stylish and contemporary Danish children’s clothing and shoe brands. Plus the best baby shoes from New Zealand.

)';0*1+ .110% MIDLANDS




40 Bedford Street, Belfast BT2 7FF Tel: 0044 28 90236330 Fax: 0044 28 90236330 Email: FRENCH CONNECTION, EMILE-ET-ROSE, KANZ, LILLY & SID, HATLEY, LOFFF, STEIFF, STARDUST, FIRST COMMUNION, FIRST OCCASIONS CHRISTENING WEAR High quality children’s fashions for babies, boys and girls up to 14 years - specialising in occasionwear. Showrooms in Belfast, Dublin, Cork & Limerick.

Unit 1, First Floor, Paragon Works, Wilsthorpe Road, Long Eaton, Nottingham NG10 3JW. Tel: 07967 560633 Email: Web: OILILY CHILDRENSWEAR & BAGS, ROOM SEVEN BEDDING AND BAGS Van Huizen Agencies is a young, fresh and vibrant agency, for the more discerning retailer requiring beautiful and unique collections.

1 Brickwood Place, Burton on the Wolds, Leicestershire LE12 5AW. Tel: 01509 881110 Mobile: 07860 481376 Fax: 01509 880135 Email: Web: PETER RABBIT, PADDINGTON BEAR, COSAN BABY, COUDÉMAIL, ELLE EST OÙ LA MER? APR Agencies was started in 1991, working with a team of fellow agents from showrooms in the Midlands and Covent Garden by appointment only. Selling to all department stores and boutiques throughout the UK and Ireland.



August/September 2013


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LAURA TURNER: What made you want to design a childrenswear and nursery collection? COLEEN ROONEY: Designing for children and nursery is an exciting new challenge for me. I’ve created clothing pieces that appeal to both children and mums, with pretty yet practical pieces for girls and trendy, hardwearing items for boys. For nursery items, I wanted to create something with a signature style, which can work across all the new items that parents need. After designing a womenswear collection for Littlewoods for a few years, it was great to try my hand at something new. I have really enjoyed working with Littlewoods over the years and we are always looking for ideas to expand the Coleen brand. Therefore, with me being a mummy, we thought a childrenswear and nursery range would be great. It’s also something I have had first-hand experience buying and using. LT: How long has the collaboration been planned? CR: The collaboration with kidswear has been happening for a while, however the nursery range has happened fairly quickly. Part of that was probably due to me being pregnant at the time; I now have a newborn baby here that is using all the products! LT: How do you see this collection expanding? CR: I like to take one step at a time, but we do have to work so far in advance, so we are already working on the next kidswear collection. Also, we have a few more nursery items in mind to add to the line that is being launched. It’s very exciting. LT: How did designing childrenswear differ from designing your fashion and jewellery collections for CR: The working method wasn’t that different, although it was different when it came to health and safety and so on; there's so much to think about regarding buttons and fastenings with childrenswear. LT: How would you describe the collection? CR: It caters for babies from newborn to two years and kids aged three to 10 years. The collection is a higher-end-style product, using premium fabrics, and it hopefully has designer edge. The boys’ range is influenced by my oldest child, Kai. It is informal and cool with its graphics, although there are some smart pieces, too. The girls’ line is frilly and delicate with a palette of candy tones and pretty ditsy prints. There is also a collection of bright vintage florals and quirky graphics. LT: What are your favourite pieces in the collection? CR: For boys, I love the navy blazer, it looks so smart and on-trend. The boys’ skinny denim jeans are lovely, too. There are so many pretty outfits for the girls! The cream and pink jacket is gorgeous, I would wear this myself. I also love the rabbit design on the jersey tunic. LT: Did your son Kai have any design input into the collection? CR: He’s a bit too young. I have certain styles that I like to dress him in so this was reflected in my designs. Also, having a child changes your outlook on practicality and colours, as they do like to play and can get messy. LT: Has becoming a mum changed your own fashion style? CR: Not really when it comes clothes, but it has to with footwear. Day-to-day I have always dressed casually, however I am wearing more flats since becoming a mummy.

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