MWB Magazine

Issue 193 July 2012 ÂŁ6.95 mwb-online.co.uk

Young ones Key styles from the young, directional names in menswear BID for freedom The UK’s key Business Improvement Districts, and how they are bringing city centres back to life Kicking off in style The highlights from London Collections: Men + Flip/ Timothy Everest/ Concrete Studios/ Crombie

An essential guide to the news, trends, products and styles of spring/summer 2013

A SUMMER TO REMEMBER

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Contents

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36 Retail p13 BID for freedom The key Business Improvement Districts across the UK p18 Opinion How is your tailoring offer performing this season? p19 Retail news The latest in-store news

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Gent In-season ideas The key trends to top up on this summer and where to find them p27 Ones to watch The MWB pick of the brands to watch this month Denim & street p29 p60 Picks of Pitti In-season ideas The highlights of last month’s The key trends to top up on Pitti Uomo this summer and where to p34 The great Crombie comeback find them British label Crombie returns p61Ones to watch to the style radar The MWB pick of the brands p36 London calling for menswear to watch this month p62 with a meaning Building on foundations The launch of London The future of Concrete Collections: Men Studios p64 The young and the stylish MWB’s seasonal young and Brand Guide directional photoshoot p42 p82 Brand news On the Flip side News, developments and The launch of action sports innovations for the new show Flip p85 season Stitch pickings p46 Trend highlights Previewing London show The trends of s/s 13 Stitch p26

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85 Hurdling the Olympics The brands to catch at Jacket Required

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Regulars p05 Comment p06 News p22 Interview/Timothy Everest p88 People p90 The Bottomley Line p94 Q&A/Carl Easton Front cover: Polo shirt, Farah Cardigan, Selected Homme Shorts, Supremebeing

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Update

Comment From St James’s Palace with HRH The Prince of Wales to Pitti Uomo in Florence, June was filled with the very best of the menswear industry, including the launch of the UK’s first dedicated men’s fashion week and the initial collection drops of s/s 13.

Editor Victoria Jackson/ victoria@ras-publishing.com Deputy editor Tom Bottomley/ tom.bottomley@btinternet.com Contributors Isabella Griffiths/ isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner/ laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams/ christina@ras-publishing.com Online editor Suzanna Bain/ suzanna@ras-publishing.com Fashion writer Natalie Dawson/ natalie@ras-publishing.com Sub editor Amanda Batley/ amanda@ras-publishing.com Editorial assistant Carey Whitwam/ carey.whitwam@ite-exhibitions.com Designers Clive Holloway/ clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley/ james@ras-publishing.com Michael Podger/ michael@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle/ richard@ras-publishing.com Sales manager Lauren Cooley/ lauren@ras-publishing.com Subscriptions Louise Adu/ louise@ras-publishing.com Production director Gill Brabham/ gill@ras-publishing.com Commercial director Nick Cook/ nick@ras-publishing.com Marketing director Stephanie Parker/ stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk Managing director Colette Tebbutt/ colette@ras-publishing.com

Last month, I had the honour of being invited to St James’s Palace to celebrate the launch of London Collections: Men, a development of Men’s Day at London Fashion Week. The evening brought together some of the finest names in menswear including Christopher Bailey, Tom Ford, Tommy Hilfiger, Richard James, Christopher Kane, Harold Tillman, Tinie Tempah (seemingly the man of the moment) and, of course, HRH The Prince of Wales.

It was fantastic to be among so much creativity and skill under one ornate roof. And, along with Prince Charles’ touching speech on his love for a well-fitting suit and his achievement of securing the number one Best Dressed Male accolade in GQ magazine, the evening succeeded in giving us all a much-needed reminder of how talented and well-regarded the British menswear industry is.

The following days were filled with shows across London, from the Hospital Club in Covent Garden to the Old Sorting Office off Tottenham Court Road, where the likes of Oliver Spencer and Topman sent a mix of models and “everyday” men down the huge expanse of catwalk. The event pulled in big names, with the likes of David Gandy and Dermot O’Leary making an appearance, while our very own Sherlock Holmes, Benedict Cumberbatch, walked the Spencer Hart show in nothing but a black robe and cigar.

It was interesting to read the day after the St James’s Palace reception that research conducted

by American Express found male spending rose by 4 per cent over 2011 compared to the previous year, with men spending 24 per cent more per transaction than women. This followed Burberry’s announcement earlier in June that the group has

experienced a 26 per cent increase in menswear sales, leading to a direct focus on the menswear sector going forward. British men, it seems, are staking a place in the fashion spending arena.

Flying out to Florence the following week to attend the 82nd edition of Pitti Uomo, it was clear to see positivity in evidence from the word go.

From speaking to retailers around the show, things seem to be, albeit slowly, improving and, while visitor numbers for the Italian market predictably dropped by 12 per cent, UK visitor numbers at Pitti Uomo actually increased on last season.

In this issue, we bring you our highlights from Florence (page 29), as well as our comprehensive guide to the new season, looking at the news, developments and trends of s/s 13 (page 41).

As always, don’t forget to share your views and opinions by emailing, leaving a comment on our Facebook page or tweeting @mwbmagazine.

Victoria Jackson Editor

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MWB is published 11 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232

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Copyright © 2012 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

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News 01

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Online clothing returns cost retailers millions Retailers are spending millions on clothing returns, but multichannelling could help, new research suggests. Although consumers are bearing the cost of returning 13.6 million items, totalling £29.24m, the majority is being paid for by retailers – at a cost of £61.52m.

The high figures, which total £90.76m, are partly due to an increase in fashion orders placed remotely, experts say.

“Returns are a particular problem in fashion, where consumers are used to ordering multiple items in a range of sizes, colours or cuts

in the knowledge they can easily send them back,” says Neil Saunders of Conlumino, which conducted the research for Webloyalty. “While many retailers do build in some cost of returns, there is the danger that, as remote channels continue to grow, the cost of servicing the consumer also grows.

This situation would inevitably erode profitability,” he continues. “The ideal situation for retailers is to minimise the volumes of returns while growing sales. To do this, they may need to revisit how the returns process fits into their multichannel strategy.”

Guy Chiswick, MD of Webloyalty UK, says the fact that customers are increasingly using the bedroom to try on clothes should be seen as an opportunity to grow digital sales channels. “Traditional stores have long recognised that giving styling advice in the fitting room can contribute to customer loyalty and sales growth – and the multichannel retail environment is well-positioned to bring this styling advice into the consumer’s home,” he says.

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Community launch for Moda Trade fashion exhibition Moda has introduced a new interactive feature with the launch of its online community.

Coupled with the announcement of the show’s seminar programme for its August edition, drawing together some of the trade’s leading experts, the development aims to bring the industry together beyond the exhibition aisles.

Moda Community, which can be found at

moda-uk.co.uk/community, enables exhibitors, visitors, press, speakers, visitors and organisers to interact with each other directly, as well as creating a personal profile for themselves. The website also features a diary and appointment booking system that can be used ahead of the event, as well as exclusive content supplied by seminar speakers.

This season sees Clare Rayner return to Moda, following her successful debut at last season’s show. Rayner will discuss how to develop an upward cycle of customer engagement, including how positioning, PR and marketing are fundamental to customer attraction.

Also appearing at the event is Warren Knight, founder of Gloople, the UK’s first fully integrated social sharing e-commerce platform.

Knight will help retailers understand the benefits of using Google and social networks such as Twitter, Facebook and LinkedIn. Meanwhile, Ray Buckler and Nick Pratt of Sitemakers will be on hand to discuss smartphones and tablets, and how to make the technology work best for retail businesses.

For full details of this season’s seminar programme or to register for the show, taking place on 12-14 August at Birmingham’s NEC, visit moda-uk.co.uk.

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International expansion for Chester Barrie Savile Row tailoring label Chester Barrie has signed a partnership with Italian retailer Gruppo Coin to open three shop-in-shop concepts across Italy.

The brand will take space in stores in Verona, Mestre and Milan’s Piazza V Giornate, while each concession will offer a mix of classic Chester Barrie clothing as well as product lines developed specifically for the Italian market.

“We are delighted to be able to offer Chester Barrie in Italy,” says George Orris, international brand director for Chester Barrie.

“It is a nation that understands tailoring and appreciates the finer points of good dressing. We know the brand meets the Italian gentleman’s usual high standards.”

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Rogue Agency and Bodega Distribution merger

My-wardrobe.com extends global reach

Northern menswear agents Rogue Agency and Bodega Distribution have merged to create a co-operative, trading under the Rogue Agency name.

Representing 20 brands, including Onepiece, Beck & Hersey, Fruit of the Loom, SMK and Deadly Sins, Rogue Agency co-owners Rob Hilditch and Richard Dean, as well as Bodega Distribution founders Nico Spirou and Chris Dodd, will operate as one entity going forward.

With plans to renovate its current premises, Rogue Agency will showcase each of its divisions, including steetwear, denim, fast fashion and its Club 50 VIP area, over four floors.

Following the success of the Agency’s new initiative, Club 50 – a buying concept that sells Love Denim exclusively to 50 key independents across the UK such as Accent and Sarah Coggles – plans to open a second showroom in London remain firmly in the pipeline.

My-wardrobe.com has announced the launch of its French, German and Dutch specific websites, which the etailer hopes will create a tailored “local” online shopping experience.

The launch of the sites follows the introduction of the Norwegian, Danish and Swedish sites earlier this year as part of the brand’s global expansion.

“We are delighted to launch our French, German and Dutch websites, to be able to offer our international shoppers a truly local experience,” says Sarah Curran, founder of My-wardrobe.com “We see enormous potential in these markets, but our focus is on putting the customer at the heart of what we do with translation, local currency and competitive shipping options.”

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Pretty Green eyes international expansion Pretty Green, the clothing label founded by Liam Gallagher, is set to open its first international store in Japan at the end of this month.

The shop will be located in the popular Aoyama shopping district of Tokyo, and will sit next to the likes of British counterparts Paul Smith, Stella McCartney and Anya Hindmarch.

“This is a huge statement for us, and reflects the way the brand is growing and becoming sought-after,” says Nigel Grant, brand director for Pretty Green. “Japan has a vibrant fashion industry, and Tokyo a strong retail market. We see it as a natural progression to have a presence there.”

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American labels Tommy Hilfiger and Blauer collaboration The Tommy Hilfiger Group has announced its first partnership with American outerwear specialist Blauer, for autumn/winter 2012.

The collaboration will see the launch of a limited-edition outerwear range, including two styles each for men and women. Combining Tommy Hilfiger’s classic American styling with Blauer’s durability, the collection embodies high-end, premium performance. The line will be sold in selected Tommy Hilfiger stores across Europe, the US and Japan as well as www.tommy.com from 14 September.

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News 08

Increase in international visitors to Pitti Uomo Menswear trade show Pitti Uomo saw an eight per cent rise in international buyers for the s/s 13 edition, with 7,500 out of 18,000 visitors attending from overseas.

The 82nd edition of the event, which ran on 19-22 June, saw an increase in UK buyers, while Germany remained at the top of the list of foreign countries in terms of attendance.

Japanese visitor numbers were up, meanwhile, as were American, Russian and Turkish.

Predictably, Italian, Spanish and Greek attendance figures were down on last season.

“This is a difficult time for Italy, particularly for consumer spending,” says Raffaelo Napoleone, CEO of show organiser Pitti Immagine. “Fashion distribution is changing rapidly and will continue to do so. I am not worried; I am a realist, and believe it is healthy to have a few shake-ups now and then. I continue to be convinced of our country’s fortitude, our ability to react, and I believe we will come out of this with a very different set-up than in the past.”

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Barbour and Vans launch capsule collection

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Ben Sherman strengthens its premium position Ben Sherman is looking to strengthen its positioning in the international premium market, following a successful reaction at the recent Pitti Uomo, where the brand unveiled its new EC1 collection.

Since the introduction of the brand’s Plectrum range in 2011, the British menswear label has reasserted its market position within the menswear sector. In the last 12 months, standalone stores have opened in north, east and south London, Toronto, Canada, and South Africa, as well as partnerships with premium retailers across the world.

“It’s an exciting time for the brand, and exhibiting at Pitti Uomo marks another significant step in our journey, as well as what we hope will be the beginning of a long-standing relationship with the Italian show,” says Pan Phillipou, CEO of Ben Sherman. “The Italian market is of great significance to Ben Sherman, and we are working closely with our partner, Interjeans, to increase our presence there.

“Pitti Uomo is undeniably the most premium menswear show in the world, and therefore attracts the best buyers in the world,” he continues. “It will form an integral part of our European expansion strategy, with a particular focus on the Italian market.”

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Footwear label Vans and British heritage brand Barbour will launch a capsule footwear collection for a/w 12. The Barbour by Vans range will be available in stores from 1 October as part of Vans’ Californian line of premium footwear. Vans’ classic vulcanisation process has been used in conjunction with Barbour’s signature waxing technique, creating a tough, durable design. Touches of tartan plaid, corduroy, leather detailing and army green complete the outdoor styling of the collection. The line will be available at select Vans California accounts worldwide and select Barbour stores in the UK.

Diamond Jubilee sparks surge in online sales The latest IMRG Capgemini e-retail sales index figures revealed that British shoppers spent an estimated £6bn online in May, equating to 13 per cent growth on the same time last year.

This performance marks a return to growth in-line with the last 12 months, and matches the 13 per cent growth estimated for the full year. The upsurge is attributed to the Jubilee weekend as well as the improved weather during May.

Almost 40 per cent of rejected loan applications overturned A report by Professor Russel Griggs on behalf of the British Bankers Association (BBA) has shown that the banks’ new appeals process has overturned 39.5 per cent of rejected lending decisions in its first year of operation. The process, which is available to businesses with a group turnover of up to £25m was launched in April 2011 as an initiative of the BBA’s Banking Taskforce initiatives.

According to the report, there have been 2,177 appeals, and almost 40 per cent of these have seen business owners being given the growth funding their required.

Care Challenge raises £31,000 for poverty The recent seventh Prima Solutions Adventure Challenge, supported by MWB and sister title WWB, raised £31,000 for poverty relief charity Care International. Teams from the likes of Timberland, Hugo Boss, Rampant Sporting and Supergroup took part, with the latter scooping the award for top fundraiser, having brought in over £10,000. Timberland has raised over £67,000 for Care since the challenge was launched in 2008 and was presented with an honorary award.

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H&M teams up with Maison Martin Margiela French fashion house Maison Martin Margiela is the latest name to collaborate with Swedish high-street group H&M. The partnership is thought to include menswear, womenswear and accessories, and will launch on 15 November across H&M stores and online.

“Maison Martin Margiela is one of the most influential fashion houses of the past three decades,” says Margareta van den Bosch, creative advisor at H&M. “I am so excited about the collaboration.”

Retailers fall prey to violence A recent survey by the British Retail Consortium has found that at least 35,000 retail staff have suffered physical or verbal attacks over the past year, while retail robberies have risen by 20 per cent in direct comparison with the previous year. The organisation is now working with Union of Shop, Distributive and Allied Workers to promote best practice advice for personal safety in work through its Freedom from Fear campaign.

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BIDs

Report

BID for freedom Since the scheme was introduced by the government in 2004, 130 Business Improvement Districts (BIDs) have been successfully launched and are currently in operation. MWB speaks to some of the country’s key districts to discover how businesses are bringing city centres back to life once again.

Liverpool Ed Oliver, chair of City Central BID Victoria Jackson: How did the Liverpool BID come about?

Ed Oliver: In the early 2000s, Land Securities [owner of two local shopping centres] approached Liverpool City Council, asking if the creation of a Business Improvement District could be explored in the retail area of Liverpool city centre in order to minimise the impact of the massive Liverpool One shopping centre, which was soon to be developed.

The fear was, if existing businesses did nothing to improve their trading environment, there would be a real danger that Liverpool One would take significant trade from the city centre area. The aim was that, over the three-year period of the initial city centre BID, the area would have raised its standards and customer branding sufficiently to both compete effectively with and draw benefits from the new development.

VJ: How did you encourage local businesses to get involved?

EO: There are around 630 businesses included in the BID, with just over 400 of those being in the retail sector. In-depth consultations with businesses and other stakeholders on the draft business plans took place to broaden the support and ownership of the document ahead of the publication of the final plan. The City Central BID scheme undertook a number of pilot activities, including major marketing campaigns over Christmas 2004.

Following this, the business plan and voting information was sent out in January 2005, highlighting the advantages and tangible benefits of establishing a Liverpool city centre BID. In addition, the team spoke to every potential BID member on a number of occasions to discuss the proposed BID business plan and what it would mean for them. Ongoing communication with BID members continues, with monthly newsletters, emails and face-to-face visits providing up-to-date news and opportunities for members to get involved with events and promotions in conjunction with local and regional media.

VJ: What have been your key achievements to date?

EO: We’ve established Thursday late-night shopping hours throughout the year, which is maintaining momentum. Other achievements include minimising the disruption caused by the repaving of major city-centre shopping areas through liaison with Liverpool City Council, contractors and businesses, co-founding the UK’s first privately paid

for police station in the St Johns Shopping Centre – the first in the city centre for six years – and also establishing new partnerships with Liverpool Echo newspaper. This has led to creating a double-page “what’s on” advert every month, with opportunities for members to provide competitions, listings and promotions to 280,000 readers. We also recently received a Green Apple Environment Award for the Big Go and Grow eco school project we ran in conjunction with Land Securities, Liverpool City Council and Arrive, encouraging local schools to grow their own produce and showcase it at a market organised for them in Williamson Square.

VJ: What challenges have you overcome?

EO: We are working with enforcement partners to minimise the impact “poor quality” buskers have on BID businesses. A voluntary code of practice was established for street entertainers wishing to use the city centre, including identifying designated “performance” spots. Following negative feedback from shoppers and businesses alike, we also created a chugger (charity muggers) policy to minimise the annoyance people feel when approached by chuggers. In liaison with charity-led membership body PFRA, a policy was created, limiting the number of charity collectors in the BID area on given days.

Ed Oliver (left) with Ged Gibbons, chief executive of Liverpool City Central BID

• A BID is a partnership between a local authority and the local business community to develop projects and services that will benefit the trading environment within the boundary of a clearly defined commercial area.

• Introduced by the government in 2004, the BID scheme has now been successfully implemented by 130 cities and towns, working together as communities to improve trading within a specific area.

• Established as a not-for-profit scheme, BIDs receive funding from local businesses to be reinvested directly back into the economy.

• For further information visit www.ukbids.org

>>>

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Report Beeston, Nottinghamshire Charlie Fogg, chair of the Beeston BID Victoria Jackson: When was the Beeston BID established?

Charlie Fogg: The Beeston BID was established in January 2011, following the opening of a large Tesco store and the impending construction of NET Phase Two, which is an extension of the tramline from VJ: How did you encourage local businesses to get Nottingham city centre. Both of these factors could potentially detract people from the High Road, and involved in the Beeston BID? businesses felt something needed to be done.

CF: By listening to them and finding out what they want to see through face-to-face meetings, structured VJ: What events and initiatives have the BID consultation events, surveys, forums and so on.

There has, however, been a mixed response to the committee organised?

CF: We are increasing the size and scale of events all BID. Many national retailers don’t tend to get the time, attracting bigger crowds to the area. These involved as most things have to go through head office (although, surprisingly, Tesco is very include a Christmas lights switch-on, Chinese New proactive). It is the small businesses that usually get Year celebrations, Summer Play Day and, more involved. In the year-and-a-half that we have been recently, the Diamond Jubilee. Now that we are established, attitudes are changing; we are involved, businesses are increasingly taking advantage of the extra footfall and doing additional noticeably increasing footfall and getting the things to get people in their businesses. The concept Beeston name out there. Many of the older businesses don’t see how we can make a difference of B2B loyalty cards has also been successful – and are unwilling to get involved – they see it as an businesses offer discounts to fellow companies with extra tax and a waste of money. the aim of keeping business local.

Bath Simon Pullen, chair of the Bath BID Victoria Jackson: When was the Bath BID established?

Simon Pullen: The BID was established on 1 April 2011 and will run for five years to 31 March 2016.

I’m the general manager of the Southgate Bath shopping area, which is an £81m development that opened in September 2010. There are currently 617 businesses involved and, over the last year, a tremendous amount of work has taken place. This has included regular deep-cleaning projects in the city and the implementation of a Nightwatch radio system for the evening economy. A successful event and retail campaign strategy has seen the growth of the Bath in Fashion idea as well as the Christmas lights switch-on annual event and the seasonal retail campaigns. We have also been working on tenders for waste management, lighting and utilities, and these will be rolled out to the businesses in 2012/2013.

VJ: How did you encourage businesses to get involved in the BID? SP: The businesses were sent a proposal and received a visit from BID ambassadors to talk about the proposed Bath BID in detail. They were then required to vote through a ballot system in October 2010 as to whether they wanted the BID to go ahead.

The companies voted for the BID to be formed, and the key focus areas were identified by the businesses as Managing, Promoting and Saving. Around 80 per cent of companies understood the importance of the BID from the beginning, and were very supportive. The remaining businesses have growth in their enthusiasm as the BID has developed and provided a proven service to all its levy payers.

VJ: What challenges have you faced?

SP: Bath is a fantastic city, with stunning architecture, many independent shops as well as a wide range of high-street retail stores, being a draw to the international and domestic tourist as well as regional residents. It is an area popular to do business, being close to major cities and, as it is not a business park, just off the motorway, it has a different appeal to prospective employees and clients. With all of the above, there is a challenge to maintain the cleanliness of the city for its businesses to thrive. In the tough economic climate, it is important for the city to promote itself as a stylish, interesting place to visit and do business in order to ensure that the city, as a whole, prospers into the future.

VJ: Do you have any events planned for the rest of the year?

SP: A food event is planned for October. The annual Christmas lights switch-on can attract an audience of around 4,000 as it takes place at the start of the Christmas shopping period in Bath (Thursday 15 November). We are fortunate that past local Bath celebrities have agreed to enter the spirit and switch on the lights, including Nicolas Cage, The Duchess of Cornwall and John Cleese. >>>

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Ipswich Paul Clements, executive director of Ipswich Central Victoria Jackson: When was the BID for Ipswich established?

Paul Clements: We launched Ipswich Central [the BID scheme for Ipswich] in 2007, and have introduced more than £3.3m of investment to the heart of the town. In total, 650 businesses are involved in Ipswich Central. We have retailers such as Coes, for example, who aren’t in the boundaries of the district but have still signed up to be Friends of the BID, paying a volunteer levy to benefit from a number of the BID benefits.

The Street Rangers

VJ: Having recently entered your second term in April, what are your plans for the next five years?

PC: During the time of the previous BID term, a new waterfront underwent a revamp, the Education Quarter with the new University Campus Suffolk and Suffolk New College have been established, and the Office Village now provides modern, high-quality accommodation. The BID has created a strong brand for the town centre, and uses all marketing platforms, including social media, to widely promote the area. Something that is in the development stages is a smartphone app, utilising

GPS which, when used in the BID boundaries, will notify visitors of changing events, promotions and offers in the area in which the smartphone user is.

In recent months, the BID, together with Ipswich Borough Council, has jointly funded an Inward Investment Surveyor to target missing businesses, and identify the potential for further retail development. Viyella, White Stuff, Cotswold Outdoor and Office are just some of the names added, and the new BID will commit to similar funding for the next five years.

VJ: Which initiatives have been the most successful?

PC: While we have received positive feedback on most of the changes and developments we’ve implemented, becoming the first and only BID accredited by the Police has been a great achievement, as has the launch of the our Street Ranger team. The Street Ranger team (pictured), who to date have walked 22,700 miles, are there to provide a reassuring presence for stakeholders, and having this in place has reduced crime and anti-social behaviour. The responsibilities of the team will be extended, and some experimental Sunday working will be introduced.

Worcester Nicki Williams, chair of the Worcester BID Victoria Jackson: How many local businesses are involved in the Worcester BID? Nicki Williams: We have 558 different businesses involved in the BID, which is one of the larger ones in the country. We have a good mix of multiples and independents including the retail, leisure and professional sectors. Sixty six per cent of the businesses involved are retailers. The BID formally began as a business in April 2010 after a period of consultation and a ballot in the previous October – a result of a review of tourism and city-centre management activity by parent company Visit Worcester in 2006.

Aimee Lewis and Laura Woodyatt of independent retailer Halo

VJ: And how were these businesses encouraged to get involved?

NW: For the ballot, we met a huge number of them face-to-face – this is by far the best way to get feedback and ideas on the projects that they want to see a BID deliver. We also ran consultation events and surveys to determine the projects. Now that the BID is up-and-running after a successful ballot result, we utilise our Street Rangers, which patrol the BID area, to inform businesses of the projects and schemes that we run through their business visit schedule. However, we also utilise social media, email, websites and newsletters to encourage participation from businesses often using case studies from other companies who have benefited from a BID initiative. In terms of challenges we’ve faced, when times are tough and with the economy in the state it is, it has meant that businesses want to reduce their overheads, including BID levies! As time has progressed, we have delivered more and more projects, so I like to think we have turned around previous sceptics. Businesses who have bought into the BID have benefited, and we want

more to get involved. Generally, though, the projects we have delivered have been well-received.

VJ: What projects and events have the committee organised for the BID? NW: We have run a Chocolate Weekend, which went extremely well for large and small businesses, particularly retailers. Footfall and spend figures from those businesses that took part were excellent. We also ran our Uniquely Worcester campaign/event, which will return this autumn and promotes and celebrates independents. They give Worcester its unique character and benefit all businesses. We are also running The Big Busk, a day of busking on 14 July, which we are running for the first time, a series of street entertainment in the run-up to Christmas, and a Customer Service Awards evening to celebrate the businesses that have received a Customer Service Assessment (mystery shop) and received excellent feedback.

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Opinion

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Opinion/ Tailoring Tailoring and smart-casual looks seem to be back on the agenda big time for UK indies looking to smarten up their act, and their customers. The brands are pushing it, so how are the retailers backing it?

Terry Threadingham, owner, Lizard, Richmond Tailoring per-se is not really for me. It’s not my business. I’ve tried suits before, including the Hugo line from Hugo Boss and PS from Paul Smith, but it’s never really worked for me. You need to have a large selection and choice of colours and sizes. The smart-casual look, on the other hand, is more for my customers who are predominantly in the 30-50 age bracket, with a lot in their 40s who suit the casual blazer with jeans, chinos or cords look, and who feel confident dressing like that. They like to mix-and-match, so I buy that way. Formal shirting and ties are not for me, though.

For a/w 12, I’ve gone for the tweed look in terms of blazers, and Gibson London are doing a very nice line. PS Jeans from Paul Smith also have some great jackets in checks and herringbones, and I’ve even got cord blazers coming in soon from Nicole Farhi.

It’s too early to say what I’ll be going for for s/s 13. All I know is I’ll be cutting back on everything! This season has been disastrous.

Summer is not a good season – it’s too short. As soon as it starts, everyone is on Sale, so I won’t be taking any risks. I’ll be buying the essentials and more in-season. It needs to be commercial. I’ll stick to my guns on the smart-casual front. That’s what I know, and what I do best – and my customers in Richmond are attuned to that.

For more industry opinions visit mwb-online.co.uk

Mark Taylor, co-owner, Pockets, Shrewsbury, Hanley, Worcester, Newcastle-Under-Lyme, Nantwich (photographed with co-owner Paul Platt, right) We’re taking a more sartorial route and looking at deconstructed jackets in particular. It’s a carry-on from what we started this summer. It’s a bit of a cleaner and more mature look. Sharper dressing and accessories are becoming increasingly important to give a jacket and shirt a point of difference. It’s all in the detail to finish off an outfit.

We found a nice English cufflinks company at Pitti Uomo called Babette Wasserman from London. She studied at Central St Martins and does a women’s line of jewellery. She also now does an amazing line of cufflinks, so we’re having a go with those to freshen things up. We’ve also bought some great pocket squares from Penrose London.

There’s plenty of colour around, that’s for sure, and our guys are just getting into it. Obviously, you’ve got to be a bit careful in the UK, but a more colourful pair of chinos brightens up a navy linen blazer and makes it more flamboyant.

We have had a good tailoring season due to weddings and formal occasions such as the races.

One thing that every man needs is a good suit, so if you’re the groom, or have been fortunate to be invited to a function, you’ve probably saved up for a special one – say from Paul Smith, Hugo Boss or Canali – which is a great investment. And then, of course, comes the shirt and tie and, now more than ever, even the smallest accessories make the difference, such as pockets squares, a tie clip and a great pair of cuff links.

It’s not only suits that are performing, but the deconstructed linen/cotton jackets have worked really well, especially from Hackett and Paul Smith, teaming them with a slim-fit chino or denims, and a shirt and tie for a more formal occasion – or maybe a floral shirt or crisp linen shirt for a more relaxed look. Thankfully, guys seem to want to make more of an effort at the moment.

Philip Browne, owner, Philip Browne, Norwich We moved the business to a bigger premises last September. It’s 4,500 sq ft over three floors and has its own English gentlemen’s suit department on the first floor. We’re 25 years old as a business, and I now feel that we’re mature enough – along with our customer base that has been shopping with us since their 20s and are now in their 40s – to offer tailoring on a separate dedicated floor. I’ve always sold suits, but it’s great to now be able to offer a stunning tailoring room with some very sharp suits.

It’s an area of the market I really enjoy, and I do very well with Savile Row’s William Hunt. I love putting on a suit – even just to go down the boozer to meet my mates.

We were selling Helmut Lang suits in the 90s, and I’d love to see a full-blown revival. We’ve also sold Vivienne Westwood suits since then, and still sell them well now. We’ve just bought suits from Crombie for s/s 13, I love their product, and the coats they do are amazing – I always wanted one as a kid. And we’re looking at Tiger of Sweden. It takes a lot of customer loyalty to hand over £500-£1,000 for a suit, but I’ve built up that trust with my customers.

Also, from a retail point of view, if you’re getting married or being a best man, it’s a compulsory purchase, so it’s good to be known as the shop to come to for that. I’m not saying tailoring is the way forward, it just feels right for my business right now.

It’s how we’ve developed, and I’m really getting back into suits in a big way. We’ve also been selling a lot of Harris Tweed jackets, and both those and the Crombie coats work brilliantly with a pair of Levi’s Vintage Clothing or RRL jeans and Tricker’s brogues. It’s an easy look that’s instantly stylish.

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mwb-online.co.uk

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Retail news 01

Salford University celebrates new talent Salford University welcomed 29 of its fashion design students last month to showcase their final collections in front of more than 300 clothing industry guests, family and friends.

It was the first event of its kind to be held at the university’s MediaCityUK building, where the collections on show ranged from tailoring and eveningwear to sportswear and military styling.

Five awards, judged by a panel of industry professionals, were presented on the night, with the accolade for Best Collection, sponsored by Matalan, awarded to menswear designer Dhaval Joshi.

“All the collections showed real forward thinking in design, and I’m thrilled that the phenomenal hard work by the students and our team has come together so well,” says Bashir Aswat, Salford University’s fashion programme leader.

“We managed to create an intimate setting in a dynamic, modern venue, and we are extremely happy with the success of the show.”

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Westfield Stratford City welcomes New Era store Lifestyle label New Era opened its 13th store, in East London’s Westfield Stratford City, last month.

The 1,800 sq ft shop, which launched on 9 June, houses men’s, women’s and children’s headwear, apparel and accessories. In addition to its core offer, the store offers exclusive, limited-edition products including London-themed designs and fabrics.

“We have completely re-energised our design concepts for our company shops,” says Cal Lawson, director of retail operations. “Our updated store concept allows for fully integrated merchandising of apparel, headwear and accessories, leading the consumer through a clean, modern and consistent retail environment.”

Jamal Edwards of online youth broadcaster SBTV was on hand to officially open the store, while cap trickster Mark Calape provided live entertainment. New Era stores are also located in Birmingham and London’s Soho.

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Utter Nutter co-owners Sanjay Yagnik, left, and Kashif Qazi

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New premises for Utter Nutter Denim specialist Utter Nutter celebrated the opening of its new store in Romford last month with a party hosted by Italian denim label Diesel.

As one of the first retailers in the UK to stock Diesel denim, the brand collaborated with the store for the celebrations, which welcomed a host of customers, friends and names from the denim industry.

Measuring 1,000 sq ft, the store boasts an impressive 14-metre denim wall, featuring names such as Diesel, G Star, Nudie, Edwin and new label Last & True. Holding over 3,000 pairs of denim at any one time, the store is among one of the biggest premium commercial denim specialists in the UK.

The Diamond Jubilee gave us something to celebrate There were plenty of choruses of God Save the Queen in our shop in the lead up to the Diamond Jubilee weekend last month.

As it got near, the whole fuss about the celebrations seemed to lift our customers. The week before the holiday turned out to be 26 per cent up. We had a cracking time on Saturday 2 June, when we finished an incredible 87 per cent up on the previous year. It looked like people were saying at long last, “Oh, sod it, let’s go out, buy something new and enjoy ourselves.” A lot of our customers were having house parties over the bank holiday, and we did well with smarter polo shirts, chinos and even shorts, as the weather was good on the Saturday. There was a real feeling of positivity around.

We trade seven days a week and only close for religious holidays such as Christmas and Easter because that’s what our larger competitors do and we have to fight for our share. The Bank Holiday Monday, when we were open from 11am until 4pm, was good, too, but it did quiet down on the Tuesday.

The lift that the holiday provided was much needed because trade has been challenging this season. We were 20 per cent down in April and four per cent in May. Every week is a roller coaster with no consistent pattern to trading. I have worked at Hugh Harris for 20 years, and today’s trading reminds me of the patterns we saw during the last deep recession in the late 80s and early 90s. We ended up some days with only myself and MD Paul Martin working in the shop because we had to save costs. We used to rely on getting that one good spender in to make our day worthwhile.

There still is money around, but people don’t want to be seen to be spending in the current climate. We can count on two hands the number of lads who come in and drop £600 or £700 at a time.

It used to be common but, now, customers are more likely to come in three or four times a month and spend £100. We are also noticing more than before that sales improve at the end of the month when people get paid. The big difference between now and then is that we are better at monitoring things these days because of computerised stock control systems. We are much more on the ball.

We are now looking forward to another lift in business around the next Bank Holiday on 27 August. We should have most of the new autumn merchandise in by then, so we don’t want it to be a sunny and hot weekend, thank you very much.

Lee Simpson is director/buyer of Hugh Harris in Woking and is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB).

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July12

Moda

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Promotion/ Moda

The biggest date on this season 12-14 August 2012 NEC Birmingham The UK’s most essential fashion trade show is gearing up for its biggest summer so far, with its unbeatable line-up boosted by brand-new launches and international names taking part in the show for the first time.

Moda Gent

NEW!

This August will see the launch of FLIP, a new trade show running alongside Moda Gent for urban, streetwear and action sports lifestyle brands. A key destination for both specialist board sport and activewear stores, FLIP is also the essential show for fashion retailers looking for the latest urban and active lifestyle apparel. Clothing brands Quiksilver, Roxy, Animal, Kenny Random, Chirpse, Rock & Revival, Timezone, Kangol and HoodLamb, footwear labels Amazonas and Gumbies, underwear brands Puma and Stonemen, and accessories labels Sativa, Obag, Arrogance Accessories and O clock are among the brands confirmed. Look out for spectacular live shows celebrating a decade of the Animal Bike Tour and featuring some of the world’s best bike riders.

This summer will see Moda Gent’s biggest show so far as a host of new arrivals join the unbeatable line-up including established shirt label Poggianti, which will showcase its latest spring/summer 2013 collection made from the finest Italian fabrics, and British brand Brook Taverner, which will present limited-edition tweed jackets alongside its latest range. Other names to look out for this season include Irish label Vedoneire and Swedish brand Boomerang. With a modern take on tailoring, cult labels Farah and Gibson London make a welcome return this season alongside favourites Maddox Street London, Joules, Florentino, Camel Active, Remus Uomo and Roy Robson.

 

Quiksilver Photograph: Morgan Maassen

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July12

Moda

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the fashion calendar Want to keep pace with retail’s digital revolution?

Don’t miss Moda’s free seminars

Moda Footwear New labels joining the Moda Footwear line-up this season include Panama Jack, with a collection of footwear handmade in its native Spain, and Swiss lifestyle brand Mistral, which debuts three distinctive footwear lines for spring/summer 2013, including the Mistral Authentics range, which is characterised by its lived-in look and nautical colours. Also adding to the line-up of newcomers this season are Israeli label CoupleOf and British outdoor lifestyle brand Brakeburn. Mustang returns following its hugely successful debut in February alongside returning favourites Rocket Dog, Iron Fist, Rockport, Geox and Fly London.

Smartphones and tablets: How to use your new shop window effectively Ray Buckler, head of business development, and Nick Pratt, MD, Sitemakers The consumers’ new shopping accessory is now a smartphone or tablet. This seminar is relevant for retailers who want to learn how to keep pace with the revolution of the internet, and how they can use the latest mobile technology to interact and engage with customers.

How to use Google and social media to increase your online sales Rockport

Warren Knight, founder, Gloople Warren Knight of Gloople, the social sharing e-commerce platform, will help retailers understand the benefits of using Google and different social networks such as Twitter, Facebook, Google+, YouTube and LinkedIn. Social media is here to stay, and this topic will help visitors to integrate social media into their retail business.

Other topics on this season’s programme include: • How to build an exceptional sales and customer service plan Dennis Reid, chairman, Retail Performance Specialists (RPS) • How to develop an upward cycle of customer engagement Clare Rayner, The Retail Champion • How to bring the shop floor to life with retail theatre Kate Hardcastle, founding partner of Insight With Passion (IWP)

Moda’s Sunday Social With Sunday 12 August marking the opening of the UK’s biggest fashion event and the closing of the London Olympics, Moda will be celebrating Britain’s most momentous summer season with a party not to be missed! Once the show closes at 6pm, head straight to the event area outside, where we will be getting this one-off party started with a drinks reception and loads of fun including, Bar and Pimms Tent, BBQ and hog roast, live music, DJ sets and more.

To register for your complimentary ticket to the show visit Showcasing contemporary menswear and footwear brands, Select is the area to find key collections for the modern man’s wardrobe. Select’s expanded area returns with a raft of new names including the footwear collection from leading menswear label Jack & Jones and Swiss menswear brand Jay/K, which will showcase a vibrant range of denims, shorts and trousers in bright and bold colourways. Also look out for debuts from Palladium, Jekyll & Hyde, Mohawk, Mish Mash and Andy Richardson.

Returning to Select this season will be labels including Wrangler Footwear, Original Penguin, Gabicci Vintage, 1…Like No Other and Guide London.

moda-uk.co.uk Jay/K

mwb

July12

Timothy Everest

Interview

Bespoke tailor and designer with a difference, Timothy Everest has been embarking on a series of collaborations including outerwear pieces with John Boultbee at January’s Pitti and with Hancock in June. But surely the most unexpected of all was his partnership with Superdry, which launched during London Collections: Men last month. Tom Bottomley gets the details.

Timothy Everest

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Timothy Everest

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Tom Bottomley: Superdry might be considered a strange link up for you, how did the collaboration come about?

Timothy Everest: It’s very strange – like all our projects. We were introduced around 18 months ago at Bread & Butter Berlin. They said they wanted to create more of a lifestyle brand. I couldn’t see how we could work together because we were poles apart. Six months later, they took the old Austin Reed building on Regent Street and seemed very keen to get into tailoring. A meeting was set up in London. There had been an article in the Financial Times that had a picture of an Austin Reed poster from the 20s, which was rather fabulous. It featured a gentleman wearing a three-piece suit, but the colours were all wrong – bright orange, yellow and brown. It got me thinking that maybe we could work together and create more of a punk approach to tailoring. We could be more playful and have fun with it. We’re also creating some amazing accessories in bright colours.

TB: Was it your initial intention to launch it during London Collections: Men? TE: Not at all. We started talking properly about it in September last year. We started working on the collection in January this year, and presented in June. The process has been extremely fast. We were asked to do something for London Collections: Men, so we created a presentation and concept in a library setting with models in the Regent Street shop, which is such a lovely building. It was delivered very well. In fact, what they did in that top-floor area gives an idea of what they’re going to do with the Superdry + Timothy Everest (SDTE) product in-store in the future. It still works with the rest of the shop.

of the existing products. Rather than it just being a poncey and pretentious tailoring offer sitting in the corner.

TB: Tell me more about this punk-rock approach?

TE: We had models dressed as different characters.

For example, we had “Shoreditch guy”, the “preppy guy”, and the “LA rock ’n’ roll guy”, with the coolest tattoos. It’s appealing to different people, but the common link is the product is similar. It’s more about how you style it within that collection.

TB: And there are four different stories within the collection?

TB: Is it going to be rolled out?

TE: Yes, it was just a case of plundering all things TE: It will go into their key flagships. They need the British. So we’ve got Super Spy, which is loosely space where they can service the customer, because based on James Bond and 60s US TV series putting a tailored jacket on someone is a little The Man From Uncle. The concept is that we have different than just buying a T-shirt, but I think they jackets and trousers that match – you can wear them want to use that approach to service right through as suits, but they’re not sold as suits, aside from the the store. So we’re going to try and look at Super Spy one, which is a great grey sharkskin old-fashioned retail in the nicest way – even if you’re number. We also have the San Franciscan, which buying a T-shirt and a pair of jeans. features a couple of tweeds and is based on the early 70s west-coast detective TV shows such as The TB: What are your views on Superdry in general?

Rockford Files, with a bit of Steve McQueen in TE: Well, it is a huge business, but not one that the Bullitt from 1968 thrown in. Then there is Country fashion press would necessarily normally look at.

Rebel, which is the original character I showed It put £100m on its turnover last year alone, and them, influenced by a young Mick Jagger and the added another 60 shops. What a lot of people don’t David Bailey photograph of him when he’s wearing see, but I travel a lot, are the label’s moves into a shrunken tweed jacket and a tight penny collar South America, Asia and the Middle East. It’s one of shirt. A lot of people think the 60s was all crushed the biggest success stories – not only as a British velvet and bad teeth – like Austin Powers. It wasn’t. brand but as an international brand, so I thought it People were using traditional things in a cooler way. was an interesting opportunity if we could have this So this is more about the lost rock star in the “road crash” between the two of us. Could people be country. The last character is Bank Robber, which is pleasantly surprised? I think people came to see it Michael Caine meets Gordon Gekko. That’s why we with a pre-conceived idea of what this older tailor had the guy polishing the shotguns at the and this fashion brand were doing. But, I feel, presentation. On one button of each jacket sleeve certainly from reading the press, that we’ve pulled we’ve got a logo inspired by the cuff link shown on it off. the poster of Get Carter, where Caine is holding the gun. The idea is to create a story. It makes it very TB: Is it going to be wholesaled? easy for everyone to understand.

TE: It wasn’t going to be, but I believe it now will be.

They really like it, and I see a natural extension to it TB: What about branding? that we can work on.

TE: Of course, one of the things they’ve been successful with is branding, but this is much more TB: How is it going to be priced? grown-up, in the sense that it’s almost putting all the TE: Extremely competitively. Jackets, for example, branding on the inside. If you want to show it off, start at £175 retail and trousers at £75. They want to you can turn the collar up, but it’s actually a little bit show people that you can get a good product for more sophisticated. fantastic value for money. A lot of young kids would like to buy this sort of product, but they don’t have TB: How will it be taken forward now? deep pockets, and it has to cut with the price points TE: We will play on the word “tailored”. We have

already prototyped a playful version of a Jermyn Street shirt. It could even end up with a tailored T-shirt or a jean, to give them a different area within their business, because as their business is growing, it needs new product and areas, and this could be a separate area in that business – something that could be broken out as a concession. We need to be at a premium end for them.

TB: Are collaborations the way forward for you in terms of getting your name out there?

TE: I think the business models we were trying to follow, probably for too long, were trying to be the next Paul Smith. But that was a different time, and a different era in which he built his business – a phenomenal business. I think a lot of people of my generation saw it as first you develop a retail business, then a wholesale business but, actually, the whole collaborative thing has become interesting.

We’ve always had a different approach. We set our base in Spitalfields years ago when it was a really duff area. Then we got into British tailoring, which was dying, and now we’ve stuck our neck out on Superdry. So we have a culture of a point of difference. We’re tailors who design rather than designers who’ve discovered tailoring. We’re not trying to be fashionable. We’re tailors who have a point of view, so maybe the collaborative side of our business is a much more interesting business model.

We’ll still have Timothy Everest bespoke tailoring, and now we have a bespoke casualwear line, but maybe our ready-to-wear, which would normally be what we would try to grow, will be collaborative. We have this idea over the next three years, with some partners, to create retail and e-tail spaces. Rather than be reactive to collaborations, we’re going to be more selective and work with the ones that work well for us. •

D I E M A R K E D E R V E R B U N D E N H E I T.

FOR CONTACT:

NIGEL PINNOCK (for London and the South of England) Morley House (Suite G . 03) 320 Regent Street, London Phone 0 044 2073230478 Mobile 0 044 7968344969 MICHAEL BENNETT (for Midlands, Nor th of England and Scotland) Suite 3 Wilmslow House / Grove Way / Water Lane UK - Wilmslow SK9 5AG Cheshire Phone 0 044 1625540666 Mobile 0 044 7973211655

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mwb-online.co.uk

01 Gent p26

Product: Sporting hero/ p27 Brands: Ones to watch/ p29 Review: Pitti Uomo/ p34 Profile: Crombie/ p36 Review: London Collections: Men/

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In-season

Gent Hilditch & Key, retail price £79.95, 020 7930 5336

Simon Carter, £48, 020 8683 4475

Nicole Farhi, £27, 020 7036 7500

Sporting hero Classic polos and tailored shorts create a smart sportswear option this season.

Hackett, price on request, 020 7939 6800

Ltd, £39.58, 020 8438 4913

Robert Graham, £24, 020 7603 4500

Nicole Farhi, £52, 020 7036 7500

Eden Park, £40, 01732 852281

Pod, £12.20, 01234 240440 Blue Marlin, price on request, 0012 128682590

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July12

Gent

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Ones to watch Barbour Barbour launches its first full collection of men’s footwear for a/w 12.

Contact: 0800 009 988

Heritage label Barbour is releasing its debut full footwear range for a/w 12 with a broad line-up of 22 styles.

From sturdy brogues in leather to canvas sneakers in the brand’s signature wax cotton, each shoe is designed to be high quality and hardwearing, with performance or weatherproof elements utilised across the board.

Traditional styles take on modern updates, such as the Bavian brogue, a tan wing cap style given a modern twist via Barbour waxed fabric. Key designs include the Ilkley brogue, also in tan, which is designed to be worn at more formal occasions.

Less structured looks include suede chukka boots and leather deck shoes, plus active footwear such as the Gore-tex® nubuck game boot and the

Lysander neoprene wellington boot.

The most casual style in the range is the Valiant sneaker. Made from wax fabric, the Valiant is boxed with a sachet of refinishing wax – just like all Barbour jackets. Cord details and tartan linings provide a link to Barbour’s famous outerwear, while key colours include navy, brown and olive.

The launch of the full footwear line follows the successful collaboration with Northampton shoemaker Grenson, which continues as a separate project into a/w 12. The new range will be sold alongside Barbour clothing as well as in speciality shoe stores. A capsule collection of ladies’ footwear is planned for s/s 13. Wholesale prices range from £21.98 to £116.96.

John Smedley The knitwear brand offers a range of spring classics and new summer staples for s/s 13.

Contact: 01629 530416

John Smedley’s fashion collections for men and women are undergoing a transformation.

For s/s 13, the word “sport” will be added to the brand’s iconic John Smedley logo, motivated by new-found athletic influences and a genteel Ivy League styling. Collar and rib details as well as cable texture subtly fuse together, creating a preppy mood accompanied by bold colours combinations and stripes.

The Classics range, meanwhile, showcases the best of the label’s heritage, incorporating both timeless styles and new additions. Extra-fine Merino and Sea Island cotton are the key fabrics, while the colour palette includes a broad spectrum of 25 tones including rosebud and eggshell. Wholesale prices range from £5.90 for accessories to £144 for sweaters.

Chester Barrie Chester Barrie takes inspiration from 30s style this season.

Contact: 020 7439 6079

For more brands to watch visit mwb-online.co.uk

Suit label Chester Barrie’s s/s 13 collection is inspired by the fashion of the 30s, producing a refined and sharp tailoring line.

New this season is a wide arched peak lapel with a single-button fastening that is rooted in an Art Deco aesthetic. Other details include a pleated patch pocket with scooped edge, and deep turn-ups on trouser styles.

S/s 13 brings with it a new shirt collar shape – the tab penny – which is a modern interpretation of a 30s classic. The colour palette, meanwhile, runs from rich chocolate brown to pale grey, duck egg and deep blue. Solid colours are bold and strong, but contrast cloths, such as pinstripe and birdseye, add texture.

In turn, the tailoring is complemented by boldly hued shirts in stripe patterns of coral and raspberry, which sit alongside stripes of yellow or red on backgrounds of crisp white. Wholesale prices range from £45 to £65 for shirts and £260 to £350 for suits.

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Pitti Uomo

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Review

Firenze furnace of fashion Pitti sizzled in 100 degrees, but the looks were super cool – and driving the trends for colour, sharp dressing and a flamboyancy not seen in menswear for quite some time. Tom Bottomley selects his six of the best super-fresh collections.

Riding High This is purist kit for sure and only for those who have a select band of savvy customers who know their stuff and are prepared to spend on quality. On the surface, to your average Joe at least, it looks like a collection of vintage-look tees and sweats with quite a heavy price tag. But Riding High’s sweat products are made on special loopwheel knitting machines of which there are only a small amount left in Japan today.

The loopwheel machines were originally developed for making luxury underwear, so premium quality is the name of the game – producing a rich texture like a hand-knitted garment. The more you wash, the better it feels and, importantly, the right fit and volume is retained. Riding High clearly takes its inspiration from great vintage pieces, and there are a couple of fine workwear-inspired pieces as well as more modern takes on jersey knits. It’s been going 10 years in Japan, and will make its second showing at Jacket Required this month for those who didn’t make the trip out to Florence.

Customello A new entry from Korea and a first-time showing at Pitti, already apparently creating a bit of a stir with some opinion-leading UK buyers, and being bought

by My-Wardrobe. Timothy Everest has also apparently been doing some consulting on this one.

He sure gets around. The concept for the s/s 13 collection is “time traveller”. Fair enough, just don’t expect Dr Who-style kit. It’s got a vintage feel to it, but definitely with a modern take. A key eye-catching piece is a leather fronted jacket with a knitted shawl collar and canvas sleeves that zip off.

All the leather comes from Italy, and it’s very soft.

There is also floral print (big news for s/s 13) mixed linen jackets, jacquard camouflage shorts, chambray shirting and just a general easiness to the collection with nice little details you discover the more you look. This could be a one to watch, and priced around the YMC kind of mark. Good accessories including paisley ties, hats and button-on braces, too.

Series Another little find from Korea with some really good pieces and UK-friendly price points, though the capsule Re-Code line, with some more unique pieces, sits higher. Interestingly, there is no distribution in Europe as yet, so maybe a good time to get on board if you’re looking for something fresh and want to get in early. It’s funny to hear the themes of the new season, with Series it’s “chimney sweeper” and “gardener”, but if you weed out the spiel and look at the product it’s definitely got something. There are some great shirts, unrefined linen, a field jacket and a mountain parka, and it all has an organic feel to it – hence the bag that reads “earth laughs in flower”. Quirky without trying to be too clever. There is also interesting footwear courtesy of a collaboration with another Korean company called Cocomods. Worth investigating.

>>>

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July12

Pitti Uomo

30

Frye The boat shoe still remains the top-selling style for spring/summer, and Frye does some good pop colours. But the new shoe catching key buyers’ eyes at Pitti was a new woven version in navy or very light tan. Apparently every single fashion and directional account from Italy that visited the stand picked this shoe up ahead of everything else. I did the same!

The other key selling point with Frye is that it utilises traditional footwear manufacturing in the US, much the same way as some of the old guard of the UK footwear industry do. Except Frye can make in its factory in Arkansas and keep the prices more competitive. The Scotch grain leather boots stood out, as did the two-tone saddle shoes, and there were some fine brogues. The leathers really are fantastic and the history of the brand and the craftsmanship gives it real credence, too. After all, the first pair of Frye boots were benchcrafted in 1863, and there’s not many American brands still around that can boast that.

YMC Included in this because I didn’t get a proper look at it during the London Collections: Men show.

There weren’t any stepladders at the back! But it did create a bit of a buzz among the buyers and seeing it first hand at Pitti you can see why. There is plenty of colour, checks, stripes, hooded Harringtons, subtle Hawaiian-style shirting, three-button blazers – just well put together and an instant summer wardrobe if ever there was one. Commercial but clever with it.

Easy pieces to wear, plus some highlights for the brave, such as the leopard print parka and matching cap. It also must be said that YMC’s footwear seems to keep getting stronger. Its collaboration with Festival Original shoes – a mesh lace-up or slip-on that originated in the late 50s, available in navy or red, are on the money. Not only do they look rather cool, they’ll keep your feet cool with it. There is also a Clarks Originals collaboration which has a certain edge to it.

Gitman Bros Prints and colour may have hit this summer, but for spring/summer 2013 they’re going to be positively raging. And, when it comes to shirts, ties and shorts, Gitman Bros from New York has it properly covered.

There are still what they call “the remakes from 1979”, so six or seven plaids and some Oxford solids and stripes, but the big colour explosion is the talking point. There are a number of prints they developed in Japan, including seersucker and Aloha-inspired prints. The floral and striped walk shorts are also eye-catching. Not sure they’ll work on a wet weekend in Wigan, but in terms of holiday wear, and for those now looking for a bit more than a chino short, they’re certainly worth a look (though you may want to keep your sunglasses on). There are also some Mexican blanket shirts, and the printed Senorita shirt is a favourite. A nautical theme is also prevalent with some really nice stripes, an anchor print and sailor’s pin-up girl shirt for those holiday disco nights!

For further information and to make an appointment call Cord Agencies on +44 (0) 1732 852281

www.uk.eden-park.com

Facebook/EdenParkUK

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July12

Pitti Uomo

32

Review

The people of Pitti Tom Bottomley gets the lowdown on the mood and emerging trends from some key faces at one of the hottest shows on earth.

Andrea Cannelloni, vice president and general manager, Napapijri

Alexia Hentsch, co-owner, Hentsch Man

Alistair Porteous, UK and Scandinavia agent, Mackintosh

“Our branding is not as in your face as it has been in the past. We’ve introduced a more understated look, including a blazer. Colour is the big driver for us.

“We are an energetic and vibrant brand, so colour is very important. It’s also more about the detail and what you discover when you’re wearing the garments. Camouflage is a key trend that is coming back, and we’ve done a technical jacket and swim shorts in camo, as well as a bag, which we are well-known for. Shorts in bright coloured washed cotton, meanwhile, are important for us for s/s 13, and we’ve added yellow, red, turquoise and purple into the mix.

“Before joining Napapijri three years ago, I was creative director for Boss Orange for 10 years.

That was a sporty line, too, and I want to integrate my experience and apply it to Napapijri to make it more international and appealing for everybody.

And I think we are now taking the right direction.

We are a lifestyle brand, after all.”

“This has been the best Pitti Uomo we’ve showed at.

It is definitely the busiest we’ve seen and the one where we’ve written the most orders.

“This is our fourth Pitti Uomo, and we’re finally getting some traction. People know where to find us, and they come specifically to see us for re-orders, along with new customers who’ve heard good things. I think they are more confident in Hentsch Man now, and it feels good.

“We’ve added prints and more stand-out pieces. I personally stay clear of saying “Hawaiian”, as I feel it’s overly trended, but prints are definitely big for next season. This entire hall is decked out with prints! People are wearing them, and they are on everybody’s stand. I think we’ve got our staples down to how we want them so, this season, we specifically wanted to push the brand in a more fashion direction.”

“We’re working with Lora Piana Italian fabrics, which you wouldn’t ordinarily expect from us. But it would be good to work with some key mills and fabric producers closer to home – maybe in the UK. “We’re delighted with the response we’ve had. We’re showing a lot of colour for next spring/summer, and it’s attracted people to come and look at us for the first time. They seem pleased at the way we’ve developed the brand.

“I’ve been slightly surprised at the attendance from UK buyers. We’ve seen the key stores. I thought that, with the economy the way it is, perhaps people might miss out on this round of shows and consolidate their budgets. But, clearly they are looking to find something that might be missing from their businesses, taking stock of some new suppliers to complement their selections.

“It’s my 26th time coming out to Florence for Pitti Uomo and, I must say, it hasn’t disappointed. It’s as hot as hell, and trying to sell raincoats does tickle me. But we had a record year last year with Mackintosh, and it looks like we could be up 15-20 per cent again this year, perhaps influenced by the renaissance of heritage brands.”

w w w. j o h n s m e d l e y. c o m

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July12

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Crombie

Profile

The great Crombie comeback Prepare yourselves for the return of a truly iconic brand. Crombie is back on the style radar and looks sharper than ever. Tom Bottomley gets the new plans from head of wholesale Gordon Ritchie.

Crombie must be one of the last great British heritage labels to need to be “rediscovered”, shall we say. It had never gone away, though it might have been slightly forgotten about. But, what a history, what a brand and what a product.

Head of wholesale Gordon Ritchie, himself from Aberdeen where the company was founded in 1805, joined Crombie last September. He has been given the task of getting the label back “out there” to the finest stores and onto the backs of the style elite – a place where the brand has most certainly belonged over the years, having provided coats for the likes of Cary Grant, King George VI, the Duke of Windsor, John F Kennedy, Sir Winston Churchill, The Beatles, Clark Gable – the list goes on. “When I first joined the company, I was simply given one task – to get the brand into the top stores in the world,” says Ritchie.

In fact, since taking on the role, Ritchie has visited the best stores around the globe, and it’s testament to the brand’s worldwide recognition that, for a/w 12, it is going into 17 countries. Shops include Barneys in New York, Wako in Japan and NK in Sweden. But Ritchie is keen to point out that they are not just working with department stores and classic menswear accounts. “We’re also finding that designer stores are buying into the label,” he says. “We’re working with The Shop in Korea, as well as Dover Street Market here. And we’re working with shops selling a lot of heritage product, presenting the coat in a more casual way to be worn with jeans and Tricker’s brogues. These stores are buying the scarves and pocket squares as well.”

Philip Browne in Norwich is one such retailer who is a fan, and is “honoured” to be chosen to sell the brand. “When I was a Suedehead in 1969, I aspired to own a Crombie,” says Browne. “It’s an iconic product, so I’m proud to have been picked as a stockist.”

Crombie started out as a textile producer in 1805. In the late 1800s, it started to produce ready-to-wear. The company is, of course, best known for coats, and it currently represents 80 per cent of the brand’s business. “It is our core product and what we’re best known for,” says Ritchie. “And that’s been reflected in the first season properly back into wholesale for a/w 12.”

Crombie hasn’t actually wholesaled for at least 15 years. It’s only been available in the UK in the brand’s stores in London, Manchester and

Edinburgh. “We trialled it in Harrods for a/w 10, and had amazing success,” says Ritchie. “The sell-through was over 90 per cent.” For a/w 11, the brand went into Brown Thomas and Liberty. “Three weeks after Brown Thomas’ first delivery, they came back and doubled their order,” says Ritchie. The signs were there that the timing for wholesale again was ripe.

Crombie is presenting some great tailoring, too. You can feel the quality of the cloth, for which it is globally recognised. And silk scarves – the perfect accessory to wear with a Crombie coat – are proving successful. “It’s a classic look,” says Ritchie. “The silk scarf and Crombie coat with velvet collar and a flash of the red lining is signature Crombie detailing.”

The coats are made from Scottish Melton wool and have a half canvas lining – the original horse hair and felt pressed together, no glueing or fusing.

“It’s almost like the original technical fabric,” says Ritchie. The combination of the Scottish Melton wool and canvas lining renders them windproof.

When I wear my Crombie, I don’t feel the cold.”

Crombie is certainly making some products in the UK for a/w 12. Indeed, the brand has always retained some manufacturing here, but Ritchie says it’s something they want to do more of. “For the wholesale launch, we have increased the pieces that are made here,” he says. “The classic core coats are made here, for sure.” And they are not just in plain colours; there are tweeds and district checks (which goes back to a time when the English moved into Scotland and started buying the land – they weren’t allowed to adopt or create a new tartan for their area, so they created their own checks instead) as well as a selection of different coloured velvet collars, with the more luxurious accounts being encouraged to have exclusive colours in order to offer a point of difference.

Also in the collection is a sharp short double-breasted number that’s got more than a hint of Michael Caine in The Italian Job about it. The fits have been tweaked; they are more fitted across the shoulder and in the body – a modern fit of an old classic, if you like. Crombie has also recreated its Great Coat. Indeed, this is the brand that made the

Cary Grant

King George VI

first – a military coat that we’ve seen replicated and copied for the big designer names and the catwalks of Milan many times over the years. It has been so well received that there has been a waiting list, though Paul Weller didn’t have to wait long for his.

A classic Crombie coat retails at £795, but it’s an investment piece that will last a lifetime. For wholesale, a 2.8 mark-up is being offered. The brand is mainly using the best British fabrics, though Ritchie has introduced some beautiful Italian fabrics that have a quality and fine handle about them.

“We always aim to use the best quality fabrics and the highest quality manufacturing,” he says.

There is no big shouting from Crombie, though. Make no mistake, this is an understated relaunch, a quiet reintroduction to the “right people”. There is no gung-ho attitude to suddenly want to supply every retailer under the sun. It’s the best, and the best only that Crombie wants to be sold by and associated with. And that’s the way it should be for a truly great brand, and a product you want to walk out of the shop in. •

4QSJOH 4VNNFS

GRA AY CLOTHING LTD. | phone 07980 241025 | 4 Wendle Wendle Court | 131/137 Wandsworth Wandsworth Road | London | sgray@hotmail.co.uk | www.stones.eu

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July12

London Collections: Men

36

Review

London calling for menswear with a meaning Giving menswear its own London Fashion Week – London Collections: Men being the official title – was a bold move, especially given the organisation required at short notice, with designers needing to prepare their collections so much earlier, even pre-Pitti. But, it seems, the results were an overriding success, and expectations were exceeded. Tom Bottomley went along to some handpicked shows and recounts the highlights.

Hackett You’ve got to appreciate Jeremy Hackett’s background in vintage clothing and own sense of style and theatre to know he’s the man to cut a dash through the decades and re-invent the classiest of looks. When it comes to dapper, he does it with distinction. For s/s 13, he’s revisited the Great Gatsby – the iconic F Scott Fitzgerald novel – for inspiration, with a remake of the film, starring Leonardo DiCaprio and Tobey Maguire due out later this year. Clever thinking from Hackett, as there is nothing like a good box office smash to inspire trends. Focusing on lightweight fabrics, Hackett’s signature tailoring epitomises 20s Hollywood style, with three-piece suiting cut from wools, linens, silks and cottons. Lapels are wider to complement the double-pleated wide-leg trousers.

Other Hackett looks included Riviera chic, which it is so good at re-creating, both in styling and colour. Models dressed as typical English gents drew the show to a dramatic close. Donning bowler hats and brollies, so long regarded as old hat, they sprang out to the tune of Ian Dury’s Sweet Gene Vincent. Now that’s genius, and so very British – classic with an edge.

Oliver Spencer Being a major force in putting menswear back into focus by taking part in the Men’s Day at Fashion Week on the past two occasions, it would be a dishonour to not include Spencer in the roll-call of the best the Brits have got to offer right now.

After all, Spencer is the king of the casualised suit, the don of street tailoring, if you like. It’s all so very wearable, as we’ve noted before, as have many a good buyer. But that’s not to say it doesn’t touch on the flamboyant in places and, for s/s 13, Spencer has injected more colour than ever before. Bang on-trend, of course.

Red suede double-buckle shoes are not for your average Joe, but some of the bomber jackets, outerwear pieces and suits with workwear details played around with are for anyone who likes good honest kit with a sprinkle of panache and a touch of true grit.

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Rake Still early doors but quite the flavour of the month is Rake, created and owned by Clive Darby, previously of Richard James and Kilgour fame. It was a great venue for a show, too, at the new Little House on Queen Street in Mayfair, a cocktail bar and lounge recently acquired by the Soho House group, hence the quirky name (it’s not quite as vast as its usual building acquisitions). Split into two lines – Mainline and Lounge – Rake again proved that tailoring can be ultra wearable and worn in a more casual way, and his pieces are also designed to be able to mix up with each other and work – to a point, anyhow.

The suede shirts looked great, though you wouldn’t want to spill your posh cocktail down one, and checked jackets and tailored shorts stood out.

Tailored jackets worn with baggy trousers could be a key trend, and there is a very cool shiny ice blue reefer. The lounge collection is sophisticated yet laid-back. In fact, it’s quite rock ’n’ roll for eveningwear, and is styled in such a way as to recount the morning after with bow-tie loosely hanging round the neck, hair ruffled and six o’clock shadow prominent. Fabrics are second-to-none, and British Fashion Council chairman Harold Tillman was overheard telling Mr Darby on departure, “That was real quality.” He was right on the pearl button.

Spencer Hart The show with the most pizzazz – at the old Selfridges hotel – with champagne and a high celeb count to go with it, and not just in the audience, but partaking in the show, too.

Dermot O’Leary was being interviewed in the front row before the show started, with male supermodel David Gandy in a sharp suit propping him up and making all the ladies swoon. Kicking off with a troupe of jazz dancers, designer Hart was clearly pulling out all the stops. Sharp tailoring was the order of the day, with traditional Savile Row know-how mixed with cultural references and style inspiration from the likes of the Rat Pack, Miles Davis, David Bowie and the 60s Black Panthers, as well as the British jazz-funk scene of the late 70s and early 80s. It was all about shape and texture, with eveningwear unstuffy and caddish. A mood epitomised by actor Benedict Cumberbatch (aka Sherlock Holmes) rounding up proceedings, coming out in a black robe with a “babe” on his arm, smoking a cigar with a devilish look in his eyes. Good fun, and good kit, too.

London Collections: Men

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July12

Spring/summer 2013

41

Preview

Spring/summer 2013 Your essential guide to the new season



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Brand news

Update

Brand news With the buying season now well under way, MWB takes a look at the key developments, innovations and trends to emerge from the menswear industry for spring/summer 2013.

Eterna >> Blurring the boundaries between business and premium segments, shirt specialist Eterna presents a new luxe two-ply fabric used in its three key shirt categories – City Dandy, a tried-and-tested entry-level range of classic designs; Riva del Garda, epitomising retro Italian romance; and Club of Oxford, which takes on a more maritime look. New features in the smart-casual segment include a summer peach fabric, characterised with a soft-to-the-touch feel. In terms of accessories, meanwhile, bow ties and ties made from Eterna shirt fabrics make their debut this season, complementing the current range of silk ties, which will decrease in width from 8cm to 7.5cm.

Atelier Gardeur

>

<< Joules

Due to the success of its Traveller range, introduced for a/w 12, trouser specialist Atelier Gardeur is developing the line further for the new season, incorporating Coolmax® outer fabric for comfort and moisture management. The cotton fabric is easy-care and boasts concealed safe pockets, proving extra protection for valuables. The topic of sustainability remains a key focus for the brand and, after its initial launch in 2007, Fairtrade denim has now become its bestselling trouser option. This has further developed into the Hybriddenim by Gardeur line for s/s 13, offering trousers produced using partially recycled raw materials with a resource-saving finish.

Brook Taverner With a move towards a more relaxed look, the s/s 13 collection from Brook Taverner puts the focus on comfort and function. Lightweight washed cotton and military stripes, for example, are teamed with linen and cotton casual shirts and cool, breathable trousers. Summer suits feature in pure linen, while occasion suits are available in Italian mohair and wool fabrics.

Created for all eventualities, the Brook Taverner jacket collection features reversible blousons, lightweight quilted jackets, Harrington jackets in seasonal colours, gilets and quilted body warmers.

Following its successful a/w 12 collection, Joules has continued to put a strong focus on its menswear offer, presenting a quintessentially British range for s/s 13.

The first story, themed around the heritage of Joules, celebrates British sports, with polos and rugby shirts embellished with gold buttons, striped grosgrains and club crests found throughout, as well as the introduction of the Foxton jacket, a quilted car coat with coloured woven checked lining.

The second story presents classically tailored styles, featuring colour blocking chinos, bold Breton tees and traditional fisherman’s jackets. The final range is a nod to a British take on a Gatsby summer, with pastel shorts, tailored polos and the brand’s statement Eldridge checked blazer creating the core of the collection.

43

<< b.d.c23

>

Trouser label b.d.c23, part of the Bruhl stable, is being offered to the UK and Irish market for the first time, following a series of successful seasons in its domestic German market.

The collection, featuring chino and five-pocket shapes made from cotton and denim fabrics in intensive colours and washes, has been designed to serve the younger shopper – the man who likes to experiment with fashion.

Colour is key to the range, with orange, green, purple and yellow adding playful elements to the s/s 13 offer.

Creation Gross >>

Olymp

Since creating a dual-brand offer in 2003 with the launch of Carl Gross and younger line CG-Club of Gents (pictured), parent company Creation Gross has been focusing on making the brands as separate and defined as single entities, this season more than ever. With a clear brand orientation, brand positioning and values have been redefined for both collections, highlighted in new styling, design and marketing. Carl Gross offers classics with a twist – discreet and up-to-date but still remaining fashion-conscious, while G-Club of Gents places a strong focus on the younger man, full of colour and contrast.

German shirt specialist Olymp welcomes a new addition to its Level Five range for s/s 13 – the polo shirt in cotton/elastane in a modern basic or colour blocking style. Also new to the Olymp Level Five line is the brand’s city/business collection, a range of blue shades complete with new collar shapes, while white shirts with trims in multi-coloured stripes and contrasting buttons add essential fashion elements to the range. In terms of colour, neon is a surprisingly successful addition, with pink, orange and yellow-green providing accents on piping and trims. The label’s casual offer, meanwhile, features linen throughout for comfort and style, sitting next to the new colour-intensive Hawaiian print and the introduction of a new crepe cotton fabric, which is cross-dyed and washed for a lighter feel.

Skopes

<< Brax With two new fabric developments for s/s 13, German label Brax remains at the forefront of innovative menswear. High White Evolution is an intricate dyeing process that achieves authentic effects, previously only attained through wear and many washes. The combination of fine cotton threads with elastane makes for optimum durability.

Blue Planet, meanwhile, highlights the brand’s focus on sustainability with a new denim programme, which reduces water consumption in manufacturing.

Laser and ozone treatments achieve authentic denim effects and reduce the use of water and chemical additives.

For s/s 13, Skopes offers an extended collection of forward-order suits, sports jackets, trousers and outerwear, as well as its wide range of stock service continuity lines. Following the success of the brand’s Castile and Toledo linen mix-and-match jackets and trouser styles, Skopes has introduced a variety of new colour options as well as natural herringbone and navy/coral chalk stripe designs, both with built-in pocket squares and contrast buttons. The Albany range, meanwhile, features stretch-waist, peached cotton chinos and shorts in French navy, stone, khaki, denim blue and coral, designed to be teamed with the collection’s lightweight summer check sports jackets or the cotton/nylon four-pocket gilet.

July12

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Brand news

44

Update Benvenuto >>

Barruti

Following the success of its newly revised a/w 12 collection, Barruti continues in the same vein with its s/s 13 range. Featuring two new product lines, the brand combines formal design with sports elements. Modern Classic presents a more natural and rounded suit model, with the familiar two-button side slit model welcoming new billet pockets and trouser turn-ups with side AMF seams. Smart Casual, meanwhile, focuses on the slim silhouette with 38cm bottom-hem chinos and slim-fit jackets.

Top stitching with heavier threads gives the chino a more sports-inspired look, while detail comes in the form of contrasting buttons and buttonholes.

>

The new season sees 200-year-old heritage brand Peregrine launch its first capsule collection of woven cotton and Merino wool garments for the menswear market. The British label will offer a range of classics inspired by the 70s English gentleman with a series of slim-fit silhouettes in a bright colour palette. Woven cotton, lightweight waxed cagoule and Breton-stripe jumpers come in muted tones, highlighted by flashes of orange and yellow. Continuing with its production in the UK, the brand is keen to keep its heritage as a central theme running throughout, mixing traditional British styling with innovative design.

>

Peregrine

>

Returning to a smarter, more modern sense of dressing this season, Benvenuto presents a series of sharp suits in both its Black Label (pictured) and Purple Label divisions. Benvenuto Black Label welcomes Aero, a super light, breathable suit with a mohair exterior complete with fine stripes.

The innovation of Ewoolution – a mix of hybrid blends in wool, viscose and polyester – has been exclusively developed for and by Benvenuto to create a fabric with low crease tendency, soft touch and sportive look. Purple Label, meanwhile, offers a smart, slim silhouette in a cleaner, cotton satin.

Digel >>

Magee

Digel combines the sports jacket with casual cotton trousers to create a city/casual hybrid for the new season, with the idea is that suit wearers should be able to effortlessly match a suit sports jacket with jeans or summery chinos. Soft suit models remain key, designed with rounded, natural shoulders and sleeves with inside reversed seam and AMF stitching.

The emphasis is placed on lightness when wearing the garments, with quarter and half linings used throughout. In addition to pure wool and wool/silk blends, cottons are mixed with Lycra, adding further comfort for the wearer.

In addition to Magee’s signature classic suit, jacket and trouser collection, the new season sees the launch of the brand’s first foray into the casualwear market. The range of unstructured jackets and lightweight coats has been designed to offer more variations and combinations of looks than ever before. Quilted body warmers, washed casual shirts and trend-fit chinos and shorts complete the collection, while added gravitas comes in the form of mother-of-pearl buttons, pure oxford cotton lining, printed floral lining and an exclusive summer stripe sleeve lining in viscose.

WWW.BDC23.COM

MICHAEL SPRIGGS AGENCIES PHONE: 0116 23 62 304 MIKE@SPRIGGSMENSWEAR.CO.UK

MODA MENSWEAR, I.M.C. GROUP SHOW A.I.S., SOLIHULL BIRMINGHAM 19.08. – 20.08.2012 31.07. – 02.08.2012 12.08. –14.08.2012 TRADE SHOWS NATIONWIDE

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July12

Trends

Spring/summer 2013 trends

SELECTED HOMME

ROY ROBSON

Relaxed formal

BARRUTI

BENVENUTO PURPLE LABEL

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BENVENUTO BLACK LABEL

July12

Trends

JOULES

Smart tailoring and unstructured silhouettes make for a formal/casual hybrid this season as suits and city-style blazers are teamed with polo shirts and loose-fit chinos. Featured in linen and washed cotton, lightweight semi-structured jackets create the core of this trend, with the likes of Digel, Bugatti and Roy Robson presenting a series of soft tailored options for spring/summer 2013. With natural, rounded shoulders, the suit sports jacket comes in both plain and print models, replacing straight pocket flats with slanted versions. Breathable, twisted yarns allow for comfort, while contrasting colours, including taupe, pastel blue and brown, provide mix-and-match variations as seen at Selected Homme and Brook Taverner.

BUGATTI

SMITH-WYKES

BROOK TAVERNER

DIGEL

SKOPES

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July12

Trends

Spring/summer 2013 trends

GARDEUR

GAUDI JEANS

ADENIM

A return to denim

BRAX

MEYER

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Trends

BRUHL

GARCIA JEANS

ALBERTO

Following season after season of chinos dominating trouser categories, spring/summer 2013 sees the welcome return of denim. Straight cuts are key, with light cotton-linen mixes and surface structure offering cooler alternatives for summer, while new washes range from dark dye to bleached variations, white denims and light selvedge jeans with a vintage appearance. In terms of innovations, German denim specialist ADenim presents its first roof-destroyed denim â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a texture resembling jeans that have been laid flat on a roof, open to the elements of sun, wind and rain. Sustainability remains a key focus for the denim sector this season, with Fairtrade denims such as the Hybridenim (produced using partially recycled raw materials with a resource-saving finish) from Gardeur becoming one of the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bestselling lines.

B.D.C23

MAC

      

SPRING / SUMMER 2013

MODEFABRIEK Amsterdam 22.07. - 23.07.2012 Modefabriek BV, Rai Amsterdam, Europaplein, NL 1078 GZ CPD FASHION WEEK Düsseldorf 28.07. - 30.07.2012 Showroom CG - Club of Gents CARL GROSS, Halle 29, Rheinmetall Allee HOT I 17.07. - 18.07.2012 Fashion Mall Salzburg, Showroom CG - Club of Gents CARL GROSS, Hans Kitzler, Top 72, 4. OG FASHION PREMIÈRE 05.08. - 07.08.2012 Fashion Mall Salzburg, Showroom CG - Club of Gents CARL GROSS, Hans Kitzler, Top 72, 4. OG HOT II 20.07. - 21.07.2012 Fashion Mall Salzburg, Showroom CG - Club of Gents CARL GROSS, Hans Kitzler, Top 72, 4. OG CIFF Copenhagen 09.08. - 12.08.2012 Bella Center, Center Boulevard 5, DK 2300 Copenhagen S, Showroom Degn B6-11, Phone +45 24 27 35 45 MODA MENSWEAR, NEC Birmingham 12.08. - 14.08.2012 Hall 20, Booth MA 18 CPM Moskau 05.09. - 08.09.2012 Expocentre Fairgrounds, Hall Forum, Contact: EastExpert, Phone +7 495 504 66 93

Contact: Fashion Innovation Ltd. // George Remmler // 29 Roland Gardens, Flat3 // London SW7 3PF // Phone/Fax: +44 (0) 20-79 37 58 63 // Mobile: +44 (0)-79 51 55 08 90 // e-mail: g.remmler@carlgross.com

www.carlgross.com

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July12

Trends

Spring/summer 2013 trends

TIMEZONE

JUPITER

Form and function

STONES

BUGATTI

CRAGHOPPERS

Outerwear, while shorter in length and lighter in weight than past seasons, remains a key product category in the UK market for spring/summer 2013. At the very core of this trend is form and function, with ultra-cotton, lightweight, soft-washed surfaces, mildly bleached cottons and linen mixes offering practical and versatile jacket models. This season, outerwear specialist Jupiter introduces an innovative UltraMicro fabric â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a lightweight material with a smoothly sanded surface to create a high-tactile touch. German apparel label Stones, meanwhile, offers a series of unlined jackets featuring functional top, side and internal pockets. Drawing inspiration from the Sahara, Camel Active showcases a collection characterised by workwear and tailoring influences, including multi-pockets, belts, hoods with garment-dyed fabric and a wind-stopper function.

CAMEL ACTIVE

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Long Island Feeling collection spring | summer 2013

Threadweave Agencies. Christian Lawlor.

41 Haddington Rd. Ballsbridge. Dublin 4. Phone +353 1 66 84 475

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Trends

Spring/summer 2013 trends

JOULES

CLOSED

Playing the field

BOOMERANG

ANDY RICHARDSON

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Trends

HATTRIC

FYNCH HATTON

CASAMODA

Commonly a trend for the younger-focused labels, sports-inspired collections are one of the strongest emerging trends for spring/summer 2013. From boating in the English countryside seen at Joules to American college days spotted at new label Andy Richardson, casualwear draws inspiration from a range of sporting activities, offering a smooth transition from winter to spring. Classic polos and tees are updated in pastel shades as seen at the likes of Gurteen, Hattric and Ruckfield, which returns with a simpler aesthetic this season. Detailing comes from coordinating Kent and button-down collars, trims, stitching and embossed logos, while fabrics include chambray and Oxford, providing a more luxe alternative to everyday sportswear.

CAMEL ACTIVE

GURTEEN

RUCKFIELD

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Trends

Spring/summer 2013 trends

PURE SHIRTS

OLYMP

JUPITER SHIRTS

ETERNA

Pink and purple

MATINIQUE

JACQUES BRITT

Offering an alternative to the classic city styles of white, grey and blue, shirting labels look towards shades of pink and purple this season, including berry, rose, magenta and candy found at the likes of Jacques Britt and Olymp. While block colours feature throughout the spring/summer 2013 offer, highlights and flashes of pink shades can be found in piping, buttonholes and trims, as seen at Jupiter Shirts, with a fine purple check and inside collar detailing. Fabrics, meanwhile, are fine-threaded, giving the appearance of linen, and details such as thicker contrast lockstitch, contrast ribbons on buttonholes and cuffs, elbow patches and contrast-coloured yarn give this trend added gravitas.

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02 Denim & street p60

Product: Track & field/ p61 Brands: Ones to watch/ p62 Profile: Concrete Studios/ p64 Shoot: The young and the stylish/ p82 Preview: Flip/ p85 Preview: Stitch/ p86 Preview: Jacket Required/

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In-season

Denim

Franklin & Marshall, £49, 020 7488 1380 Puma Macht's mi Qualität, price on request, 01924 425537 Wesc, £65, 020 7287 9548

Track & field Sportswear takes on an urban edge this season after years of preppy undertones, while accessories and footwear have a more luxe appeal. MWB picks some of our best pieces, available to get in-store now.

Bench, £22, 07788 713075 Breo, £17.78, 01382 772581

Wesc, £52, 020 7287 9548

Ignite, £25, 01872 575163

Fallen, £ 29.70, 01726 861742 Alpinestars, £13.98, 0039 04235286 Freddy, price on request, 020 7836 5291

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Ones to watch Denim Demon Jeans Denim Demon Jeans sees in a/w 12 with a collection of winter staples.

Contact: 020 3411 7342

For a/w 12 the brand offers a strong selection of jackets, from waxed cotton styles to parkas, with cold weather lining and traditional prints such as cross stitch patterns on jumpers.

The denim range is broad, with tapered, regular and straight cuts available across a range of styles. Special features include leather patches that will darken with wear, peek-a-boo selvedge on pockets, colour-contrast stitching and reindeer horn buttons across chinos. Lumberjack checks on flannel shirts, meanwhile, inject colour into the collection, which ends on a small range of leather goods and hardwearing boots.

Denim Demon Jeans was founded in 2008 by a family whose roots are in Jämtland, a county 700 km north of Stockholm in Sweden, home to the indigenous Sámi people. Because of this

connection, every item in the Denim Demon Jeans range draws its inspiration from the Sámi culture and the people who withstand the harsh conditions in this region while undertaking activities such as reindeer herding.

It could be a button with embossed reindeer antlers, the three colours of South Sámi region, handmade horn features or a simple red bar tack, but each piece is designed with the Sámi in mind.

Styles are therefore quality tested to be as durable and hardwearing as possible.

Denim Demon Jeans is available in more than 100 stores worldwide with stockists in the UK including Number Six, London. Prices range from £50 for T-shirts to £230 for jackets.

Superdry + Timothy Everest The urban clothing brand and British tailor join forces.

Contact: 01242 588074

Designed as a separates range to mix-and-match with Superdry’s existing well-known casual pieces, the Superdry + Timothy Everest capsule collection offers slim-fit suits and a number of standalone suit jackets.

The launch range has been devised with four key characters in mind – Super Spy, Bank Robber, San Franciscan and Country Rebel. Super Spy features sleek silhouettes with peak lapels and sateen fabrics, while Bank Robber comprises double-breasted styles in charcoal pinstripes and navy herringbone fabrics.

Available solely as suit jackets, San Franciscan has a casual silhouette and black quilted shoulder patches, and Country Rebel is a relaxed singlebreasted suit jacket that can be dressed up or down.

Available in stores from autumn, retail prices range from £75 for trousers to £175 for jackets.

Am Golhar Knitwear designer Am Golhar launches a/w 12 range.

Contact: 07931 977722

For more brands to watch visit mwb-online.co.uk

Layering is key to Am Golhar’s a/w 12 collection, featuring casual, contemporary apparel and accessories for men.

Inspiration comes from the military with epaulettes and shoulder/elbow patches, while a soft cashmere cape in mélange grey/khaki is warm, practical and adds military dash.

Naval-style slash-neck sweaters in navy or charcoal are given a twist with optional snood collar piece, and block colours are given a camouflage twist using a mélange finish. Attention is also focused on leisure this season, with ribbed, cable or trellis-style jogging pants looking equally strong with a tailored jacket or baggy crewneck sweaters.

Texture-wise, chunky cable knits jostle with micro knits in a palette of black and grey with highlights of navy and cardinal red. Wholesale prices range from £44 to £255.

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Concrete Studio

Profile

Concrete Studio building on foundations There is a lot going on at brand agency Concrete Studio, it seems. As well as the growing distribution side, a new-found push for its Natural Selection denim label is imminent, along with a new T-shirt line – under the name of SNCL – which is being launched for a/w 12. Tom Bottomley gets the lowdown from Concrete Studio sales director Russell Pickett.

When it was launched in 2009, Natural Selection seemed to have immediate success, selling to Selfridges in its first season – something quite unheard of. So it must have had something right.

The problem was such early and quick success was perhaps unsustainable for a young brand new to the premium denim market. A very small fish in a very big pond, definitely punching above its weight. That’s enough of the clichés. However, it’s now much more focused, and brand owner and creator Concrete Studio has shown it at Capsule and Bread & Butter Berlin, and will be presenting it at Jacket Required in London this month.

“I think the problem with Natural Selection is that it’s been a whirlwind three years, and it’s never really identified its aesthetic,” says Concrete Studio sales director Russell Pickett. He believes they began to be dictated to by the “heritage look” but, in the last six months, he says they’ve “reset the brand DNA” and now know exactly what Natural Selection should be. “We’ve looked at our competitors and we’ve looked at what we do well,” says Pickett. “What we want to be is a British contemporary premium denim brand with emphasis on quality and service.

A lot of independents up and down the country have wanted Natural Selection to go from having a retail price architecture of £150-£200 to compromising on the quality of the fabrics and retailing at £100-£110. It did start to happen, but we decided we couldn’t do it.” Pickett says they don’t want to try and compete with the Diesels, G-Stars and Replays of this world. It’s not their area of expertise, or their aesthetic as a showroom, nor is it the way forward. “There is no opportunity,” he says.

“We need to be much more higher end.”

Also from Concrete Studio is a new collection to take note of. It’s called SNCL, which stands for Smile Now Cry Later, and is initially a T-shirt line, with designs coming from well-known contemporary artist and graphic designer Paul Riley, who is generally referred to as Riley. “He’s a well-respected artist who’s worked with the likes of Louis Vuitton. He’s also designed posters for the likes of Hed Kandi (who call themselves ‘the most stylish name in house music’),” says Pickett. Riley has already had a T-shirt range under his own name that has sold into the likes of Dover Street Market, Harrods and Harvey Nichols, according to Pickett, with prices very premium – tees retail at £90.

“He’s now come in as part of our ‘creative collective’,” says Pickett. “In-house, we call ourselves the Guardians of the Standard (GOTS) – effectively a group of individual talents forged together under

Natural Selection

one roof.” According to Pickett, Concrete Studio’s founder and owner, John Park, is influenced by the Genius Group from the late 70s and early 80s that gave us the likes of Claudio Buziol, Renzo Rosso, Adriano Goldschmeid – forces behind the emergence of brands such as Replay and Diesel, and now, of course, huge global successes. “They set the benchmark for being creatives who did what they wanted – and it grew from there,” says Pickett.

The plan for SNCL is to evolve it quickly from a T-shirt label into a contemporary urban brand that reflects Riley’s creativity outside of T-shirts. “We wanted something more accessible,” says Pickett. The tees will retail for around £48.

A new e-commerce website for SNCL will also launch “very soon”. For s/s 13, Riley has been given more creative freedom to come up with a full collection for SNCL, consisting of chinos, shorts, jackets, sweats and shirts. “He’s very particular with fabrics,” says Pickett. “Only the tees are graphic-driven. Riley is, essentially, a graphic designer, but he’s also done fashion design courses at Central St Martins college.”

The long-term plan is for Concrete Studio to have three or four of its own brands, so this is indeed early days. The foundations are being laid, and time will tell if they’ve got the structure right. •

SNCL

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THE YOUNG AND THE STYLISH MWB shoots the key looks for spring/summer 2013.

Opposite: Jacket, Weekend Offender, £33, 01332 342068 Shorts, Original Penguin, £25, 020 7580 9167 T-shirt, Original Penguin, £15.50, 020 7580 9167

Jacket, Bench, £18, 07788 713075

Jacket, Farah 1920, £48, 020 7580 9167

Chinos, Dr Denim, £22.50, 020 7739 9988

Shorts, Volcom, £24, 0845 486 5266

Shirt, Guide London, £26, 020 7481 1111

T-shirt, Volcom, £14.90, 0845 486 5266

Shoes, Rivieras, £20, 020 3358 0030

Opposite: Jacket, Supremebeing, £50, 01223 873359 Chinos, Dr Denim, £22.50, 020 7739 9988 Shirt, Boxfresh, £22, 020 8371 7554

Polo shirt, Le Breve, £14, 0191 461 1343

T-shirt, Original Penguin, £15.50, 020 7580 9167

Jeans, MQT Denim, £26, 020 7436 6753

Shorts, Original Penguin, £25, 020 7580 9167 Shoes, Base London, £28.92, 020 8532 0000

fruitoftheloom.eu/retail

BORN IN THE USA

T-shirt, Fruit of the Loom, £5.83, 01952 682900 Shorts, Gabicci, £22, 01442 233700

Opposite: Shirt, Farah, £20, 020 7580 9167 Shorts, Farah, £20, 020 7580 9167 Trainers, K-Swiss, £31.95, 01458 449300

T-shirt, Fruit of the Loom, £4.83, 01952 682900

Cardigan, Selected Homme, £12.50, 020 3205 0312

Chinos, Barbour, £33.35, 0800 009 988

Shorts, Supremebeing, £22, 01223 873359

Shoes, Rivieras, £20, 020 3358 0030

Polo shirt, Farah, £16, 020 7580 9167

Sunglasses, Jeepers Peepers, £6, 020 7724 7238

Jacket, Luke, £48, 01869 366580

Jumper, Selected Homme, £13, 020 3205 0312

Chinos, Dr Denim, £22.50, 020 7739 9988

Shorts, Supremebeing, £22, 01223 873359

T-shirt, Fruit of the Loom, £5.36, 01952 682900

Shoes, Fish N Chips, £15.57, 020 8532 0000

Opposite Jacket, Boxfresh, £28, 020 8371 7554 Chinos, Dr Denim, £22.50, 020 7739 9988 T-shirt, Eco Boutique, price on request, 07801 102570

T-shirt, Farah 1920, £14, 020 7580 9167

Polo shirt, Gabicci, £22, 01442 233700

Chinos, Dr Denim, £22.50, 020 7739 9988

Trousers, Volcom, £21, 0845 486 5266

Shoes, Rivieras, £20, 020 3358 0030 Rucksack, Herschel Supply Co, £22, 020 7739 9988

Opposite: Polo shirt, Original penguin, £23, 020 7580 9167 Shorts, Original Penguin, £17.50, 020 7580 9167 Sunglasses, Jeepers Peepers, £6, 020 7724 7238 Trainers, K-Swiss, £31.95, 01458 449300

T-shirt, Duck & Cover, £12, 020 8453 1668 Chinos, Dr Denim, £22.50, 020 7739 9988

Contacts

Barbour 0800 009 988 www.barbour.com Base London 020 8532 0000 www.baselondon.com Bench 07788 713075 www.bench.co.uk Boxfresh 020 8371 7554 www.boxfresh.co.uk Converse 020 8731 3500 www.converse.com Dr Denim 020 7739 9988 www.drdenimjeans.com Duck & Cover 020 8453 1668 www.duckandcover.co.uk Eco Boutique 07801 102570 www.ecoboutiqueshop.co.uk Farah 020 7580 9167 www.farah.co.uk Farah 1920 020 7580 9167 www.farah.co.uk Fish n Chips 0208 532 0000 www.baselondon.com Fruit of the Loom 01952 682900 www.fruitoftheloom.com Gabicci www.gabicci.com Guide London 020 7481 1111 www.guideclothing.co.uk Herschel Supply Co 020 7739 9988 www.herschelsupply.com Jeepers Peepers 020 7724 7238 www.jeeperspeepers.co.uk K-Swiss 01458 449300 www.kswiss.com Le Breve 0191 461 1343 www.lebrevejeans.co.uk MQT Jeans www.mqtdenim.com Original Penguin 020 7580 9167 www.originalpenguin.com Rivieras www.rivieras-shoes.com Selected Homme 020 3205 0312 www.selected.com All clothes and shoes worn throughout Sunglasses, £6, Jeepers Peepers, 020 7724 7238

Supremebeing 01223 873359 www.supremebeing.com

Rucksack on shoulder, £22, rucksack held, £32, Herschel Supply Co, 020 7739 9988 Duffle bag, Converse, price on request, 020 8731 3500

Volcom 0845 486 5266 www.volcom.com

Credits:

Weekend Offender www.weekendoffender.com

Photographer: Darren Black www.darrenblackphotography.com Assistant: Maciek Groman www.maciek.co Grooming: Victoria Bond www.victoriabond.co.uk assisted by Jennifer Peffer Model: James at Sapphires Model Management www.sapphiresmodel.com Styling: Natalie Dawson

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Preview

© Timo Jarvinen and Morgan Maassen

On the Flip side Quiksilver

The UK’s new national trade show for urban, street, board and action sports lifestyle brands, Flip opens its doors for the first time this August. Attracting some of the biggest names in the street, sports and surf industry, the first edition will be held at the NEC Birmingham on 12-14 August.

MWB takes a look at some of the key players exhibiting for spring/summer 2013.

Quiksilver is the latest big name to sign up to Flip. Since its launch in 1969, the Australian surf label has gone on to pioneer and develop some of the key innovations in action sportswear, resulting in being the first brand to use two snaps and a Velcro closure to ensure board shorts stay on in the heaviest conditions. Quiksilver was also the first surf company to adapt the style and feel of beach sports to technical outwear suitable for alpine sports, first skiing and then snowboarding. The s/s 13 collection, set to be showcased next month at Flip, is packed full of colour and clashing fabrics.

Based around three lines – Lifestyle, Casual and Premium – the central look is unstructured with soft, lightweight fabrics and signature graphic prints. The Premium collection, for example, remains timeless, drawing inspiration from surfing icons such as Jamie Mitchell and Peter Mel. A true hallmark of the range, navy stripes will stand as the key print of s/s 13, while mini motifs make a comeback on shirts, alongside Hawaiian-print linings, reminding buyers why Quiksilver is one of the world’s leading names in surf, skate and action sportswear.

© Timo Jarvinen and Morgan Maassen

Quiksilver >>

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Chirpse >> The overarching theme of the Chirpse collection (urban slang to mean flirt with a member of the opposite sex) is a combination of street style and music, stemming from the brand’s origins on the London club scene. The debut range features 13 T-shirt designs and four flat-peak cap designs, with fit and silhouette a key consideration.

Customisation is a main focus, with the label capitalising on the increased popularity of the custom style market, including a customisation pack containing safety pins, allowing the wearer to roll sleeves, adjust hems and fit the garment perfectly to their body.

Animal One of the biggest names in the active sportswear sector, Animal will showcase both its men’s and women’s spring/summer 2013 specialist and fashion collections at next month’s Flip. From tees to hoodies, walk shorts to shirts and denim to chinos, the new range features a total wardrobe offer. Animal’s High Summer line consists of authentic graphics and slogans throughout, while new fabric and refined fits have been introduced alongside the new iconic board short collection.

The womenswear collection, meanwhile, concentrates on the brand’s heritage with graphic motifs and vibrant prints in reds, oranges and yellows. Swim and beachwear will sit alongside the mainline range, designed to coordinate effortlessly.

<< Puma The spring/summer 2013 bodywear collection from Puma showcases a brighter, more vivid offer than seen in previous seasons. Buyers can expect cobalt teamed with aqua blue and pink with light grey, along with flashes of bright green and orange. Print is key, with the low-tech vintage-stencilled surf motif becoming one of the collection’s stand-out styles.

Camouflage prints, meanwhile, feature throughout, with the brand developing its own camo print to incorporate the Puma cat motif.

Timezone

<< O clock

Street and sportswear label Timezone draws inspiration for its spring/summer 2013 footwear collection from the vibrant city of Miami. Chukka boots play a key role in the menswear line with contrast-coloured lacing and soles, while unlined lace boots and casual Derbies complement the brand’s main apparel offer. Sneakers and sporty slip-ons round-up the collection with natural tones dominating throughout from off-white and sand to beige and camel alongside cool mint and pale blue.

Designed and manufactured in Italy, O clock presents its spring/summer 2013 collection at Flip next month with a raft of colour-pop silicone watches.

Both durable and hypoallergenic, the watches are presented in three sizes – small, medium and large – to accommodate almost any wrist size. Available as a whole, or as a timepiece and strap sold separately, the collection is designed to be versatile, allowing the wearer to customise the watch to suit any outfit or occasion.

<< Stonemen Making its first foray into the UK market, Stonemen is showcasing its range of underwear at Flip this season. The label, originating from Australia, offers a year-round collection, adding to the existing line each season. Launching in 2008, the brand currently only sells in Australia through its retail and online arm, but has plans to expand into the UK and European markets for spring/summer 2013. In terms of the collection, the signature cut of Stonemen remains classic, updated each season with new prints inspired by the earthy, rural landscape of its native homeland.

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Stitch

Preview

Stitch pickings Stitch is back at London’s Business Design Centre on 15-16 July, and it seems it’s a show that’s constantly evolving. MWB highlights three of the best brands showing this time around.

Firetrap Just when you thought Firetrap was dead in the water, along comes retail group Sports Direct to save a popular UK fashion brand that’s been around for a while and shouldn’t have had its day yet. Sports Direct is apparently committed to investing in Firetrap and preserving the brand’s heritage and DNA. The s/s 13 collection is split into three sub lines – Core, Denim and Rock ’n’ Roll.

Past collections have never had a Core range, which is specifically focused on entry-level classic products in all categories.

However, this season, and based on past bestsellers and sales feedback, Firetrap is focusing on a range that fulfils sales requirements for classic, commercial and competitively priced product. From a design perspective, having two more fashion-forward and directional ranges alongside the Core range is predicted to add more validity and kudos to the image of the Core product.

Onitsuka Tiger

Bench

Since Onitsuka Tiger began in 1949, the brand has gone on to become an iconic global sports-fashion label with a unique Japanese sports heritage. It was in 2000 that Asics quietly resurrected the Onitsuka Tiger brand with original models of Onitsuka shoes and Onitsuka clothing, updated in today’s flavourful colours. For its s/s 13 collection, which is being showcased at Stitch, the label fuses direct remakes of its back catalogue with “a fresh representation of the forward looking face of modern metropolitan Japan, reflecting the innovative and original spirit of the brand.” In other words, Tiger classics in different colours.

The Bench men’s collection for s/s 13 takes its inspiration from a nostalgic look of the 90s. The reference is underpinned by two themes; SOS – Style of the Suburbs, which is a return to authentic streetwear influenced by urban tribes and music culture; and The Passenger, which is influenced by a relaxed approach to urban life where road trips and summer festivals provide the backdrop to a more refined look reminiscent of the post-WWII movement, Beat Generation, and Jack Kerouac (author of On the Road, the book that epitomised the Beat Generation). The focus is very much on lightweight fabrics, with shorts and shirts being key areas to drive the seasonality of the collection. Mesh-lined windbreaker jackets and boxy blouson styles continue this thinking throughout outerwear, while crew-neck sweats and printed hoodies offer a fresh take on old favourites. Setting the Bench mark for the streets.

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Jacket Required

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Preview

Hurdling the Olympics The much earlier dates of the Jacket Required show at Victoria House in London’s Bloomsbury – now set for 13-14 July instead of early August – are bound to benefit the buyers who will be avoiding the chaos to the Capital that the Olympics will bring. It offers the brands a chance for order books to be filled up earlier, too. Tom Bottomley selects a few labels with their pens at the ready, as well as some new additions and surprises.

Millican > Swapping their nine-to-nine jobs in the city for the Lake District, family time and personal adventures, co-founders and partners Jorrit and Nicky set out to rediscover their passions and beliefs. Making the move reignited their love for travel and the outdoors. In 2008, driven by these passions and with the help of friends, they founded travel and outdoor bag company Millican from their base in Keswick, also known as the Adventure Capital of England.

Each bag in Millican’s tight collection is based on a proven utility classic with modern functionality for the contemporary traveller and pioneering sustainable innovation, using organic canvas, recycled polyester, vegetable tanned leather and Lakeland wool. Millican has named its bags after local friends in the Lake District – Dave the Rucksack, Harry the Gladstone Bag and Mark the Field Bag are some examples. Millican also continues to partner with British clothing brand Universal Works, creating a second instalment of their collaborative range of travel bags. Sharing Millican’s passion for clean lines, simple details and functionality, Universal Works brings their speciality of well-cut and craftsman-made menswear to Millican’s organic canvas bags. Both lines will be shown at Jacket Required.

< Denham Focused on balancing an intense commitment to progressive design against an equally obsessive respect for jeans craft tradition, the Denham ethos is “worship tradition, destroy convention.” It aims to stick to its ethics of honest craftsmanship combined with experimentation and invention not only in the jeans it creates, but in every garment in the line, too.

The theme for s/s 13 takes subtle cues from the world of Japan’s contemporary music festival, Fuji Rocks, and the influence of contemporary military detailing. After Denham’s launch in 2009, the first own-retail location adjacent to its HQ was established in Amsterdam’s Nine Streets neighbourhood – directly in the brand’s back yard. The Denham House in Tokyo represented a pilgrimage to the home of artisan denim craft, and was complemented this year with a retail space in Osaka. The location in London reconnects Denham to Britain’s tailoring heritage, which exerts a steady influence on their approach to detail. Last month, Denham presented its first dedicated women’s store in Amsterdam.

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Jacket Required

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< Anthony & Brown A collaboration between two creative minds – one from the city, one from the country, Anthony & Brown combines the freedom and style both offered in their unique way. A decade in the making, their experience creeps into the style, quality and fit.

Distinctive enough for the city streets, and familiar enough for the rambling countryside. Anthony & Brown also aims to support British heritage and manufacturing wherever it can – you can’t argue with that. Practical and uncontrived, this could be a name for the future, and one independents would be wise to check out.

Common People

Bookman With the craze for fashionable wheels, or bikes to be more specific, Swedish brand Bookman, which launched last summer, took it upon itself to up the ante on style and colour for bike accessories. Its products have been featured in numerous magazines and blogs such as Monocle, Dezeen, Daily Candy and Cool Hunting. It’s also found its way into top-notch bicycle shops including Cicli Berlinetta in Berlin, Parksider in Tokyo and world-class concept boutiques such as Colette in Paris and Wood Wood in Copenhagen. During 2012, there will be several new releases and interesting projects for Bookham.

The aim is to make more functional bicycle accessories of good quality but from a fashion perspective, and it is also playing with the idea of doing the opposite – taking fashion items and making them more suitable for riding.

This was a stand that was buzzing at the last Jacket Required, and it was good to see plenty of orders being taken by a young brand that started with footwear and now has a full clothing collection, too. The Common People s/s 13 range is inspired by 50s military police uniforms and motorcycle attire from the same era. The collection is given a fresh, smart, clean and more technical feel through the use of Italian nylons and unique Japanese cloths. Navy is the colour of the season with the use of indigo on the jersey and shirting offer, as well as a collaboration with cult Japanese denim brand Iron Heart. Sounds intriguing.

< Rvlt Established in 1995 in Denmark, Rvlt calls itself a “street denim brand that embraces a bold graphic attitude.” In typical Scandinavian style, its collections champion simplicity, relying on the quality of cloth, finishing and an unwavering attention to detail.

Since its last trade show in London over 10 years ago (the last visit was at To Be Confirmed on Brick Lane), the label has expanded its range, and is today focused on contemporary street fashion for a more “grown-up” audience. At Jacket Required, Rvlt will show a smaller selection of styles from its s/s 13 collection, Gentlemen of Extra Ordinary League, a collection capturing the street fashion culture together with more classic Scandinavian design elements. Slim, contemporary and classic rolled into one.

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People

People Fashion East

A pint with...

<< Tom Lipop, designer of t.lipop

>> Sarah Mower, BFC’s ambassador for emerging talent, with Fashion East founder and director Lulu Kennedy MBE

Owner, Alan Paine

I was 24 and a disillusioned professional golfer (another way of saying I wasn’t a good enough player). So I decided I wanted to leave the world of golf. I heard of a company that sold knitwear and wanted to break into the UK golf market. Following a successful interview, I accepted the position as sales representative covering south-east England.

In 1989, I was promoted to London sales manager with responsibility for managing the London showroom in Mayfair. To my surprise, in 1991, the company appointed a new MD. It was the first time a non-member of the Paine family had held the position. On his first day, he called and said, “Can you come down to Godalming in one hour? I want to see you.”

It was a long train ride from Waterloo to Godalming and, I have to say, I was panicking. The MD said, “You are no longer sales manager.” My heart sank. “You are now the sales director.”

The Paine family sold the business in the mid-90s to a UK plc who then sold it on to Coats Viyella. It was an add-on to a bigger thread division, and they didn’t know what to do with Alan Paine. Consequently, it was not a great time.

Two years later, it was sold to the Richard Roberts group in Leicester, again as an add-on, to a Coats factory in Sri Lanka. Richard Roberts was a contract knitwear manufacturer who had no idea about branded clothing. It was a tough two years. Why did I stay? I loved the brand, we had great customers, loyalty and a reputation for quality which, despite the turmoil, I never let slip.

In 2001, we sold to the Harris Watson group. I worked for Sue Watson, who is probably the toughest boss I have ever worked for, but also the person who taught me the most and helped make it fun again. That was until my 2004 budget presentation, when she and another prominent member of the company both listened and said, “Good presentation, but we want to sell it.” My heart sank again. “To you!” I had never considered owning it.

It was time to back my hunch that this was a brand I could develop. And without the disruption caused by previous chairmen, financial directors and so on, who did not understand the brand.

It’s a cliché, but I took the plunge, maxing out the credit cards and remortgaging the house to the hilt in order to raise the cash. I took a big breath and signed the document. I was the new owner of Alan Paine. We’ve not looked back since – well, aside from using our rich heritage and know-how to produce some of the finest knitwear around.

The brand really does have a wealth of heritage. This includes our George Mallory connection, whereby an Alan Paine garment was found on his body following its discovery in 1999, 300 metres from the summit of Everest (67 years after his ill-fated mission). I still believe he was on his way down! This has inspired four collections of our English Explorer range to much success.

While visiting the Godalming Museum, as one does, three months ago, I saw in a glass cabinet – under dim light – an original cricket sweater with the label Paines of Godalming. The sweater was made for the 1953 England cricket team and was adorned with hand-embroidered three lions and crown. This has inspired me to reproduce this sweater on a limited-edition basis for s/s 13.

Javelin, 37 Abbeygate Street, Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk

Kit Neale, centre, designer of the eponymous label >> Yunis and Eliza from Fashion East young designers TEED

These days, more so than ever, stores have to push themselves to make sure they stand out and can pull in priceless customers new and regular. Javelin in Bury St Edmunds is an independent store that really is inspirational and offers all the assets needed in the current climate. The imaginative window displays and shop layout are reminiscent of a top London department store and, with attention to detail in all departments, makes it a perfect destination store. On my last visit, I ended up buying a couple of gifts – even though I was there to sell them Icon Brand jewellery which, I am glad to say, they will be stocking in July. The store is well-established and, like all good independents these days, they have moved with the times and continue to evolve to keep ahead of the game, constantly bringing in new quality products catering for a wide range of customers. Staff are obviously integral to the success of any store, and Javelin’s are well-informed and professional. Javelin is a real gem and, now that it has an ever evolving website, it is starting to stretch beyond the privacy of the Suffolk region.

Andy Walker, sales agent, Icon Brand

>> Dylan Jones, editor, UK GQ

James Hinton

My favourite shop

Designed as a platform to showcase emerging British talent, Fashion East was held at London’s Carlton Gardens, with collections from Duffy, Lee Roach and Meadham Kirchhoff among others.

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Trade secrets

mwb

Matthew Griggs Branch manager, Coes menswear, Lowestoft

People

How did you get into retail? I decided on a career in retail after finishing my A Levels. Due to the great reputation Coes had for customer service, I applied, hopeful of a job, and was successful.

What is the strangest moment you’ve had on the shop floor? A customer attempted to pay with a Nectar card, and was convinced he had sufficient “funds” even though we tried to tell him it wasn’t a form of payment.

Tell us about your funniest customer: We served an older gentleman who couldn’t remember the size or style of underwear he usually purchased. So instead of having a look himself, he went into the fitting room and, with an outstretched arm, handed my colleague his nicely worn briefs from behind the curtain.

What is your favourite memory of your career so far? When I was promoted from assistant manager to branch manager, especially when I realised it would mean being able to choose a company car.

What is your irrational fear?

Badly made shoes and birds flying in enclosed spaces.

Tim Cooper, managing director, Oliver Sweeney

Scraping nails down ice.

It makes my skin crawl.

Troy Rice, marketing manager, Fly 53

I have an irrational fear of umbrellas because people think they are invincible if they are holding up an umbrella! As soon as it starts pouring down, everyone suddenly becomes invisible to an umbrella-holder – they forget how wide they are, and walk full steam ahead, oblivious to everyone around them.

Richard Packman, managing director, Miinto.co.uk

With all the rain, my irrational fear is that people won’t need shoes, they will need waders!

Philip Marsh, managing director, Chatham Marine

The 80s trend from women’s fashion taking over men’s as well – the comeback of acid dyed cut-off jeans shorts, shoulder pads and rolled-up sleeves.

Anne Pastré, founder, Muriée

Dalston individualist cliques, closely followed by indoor sunglasses wearers.

And, on a more topical note, footballers with dodgy ponytails.

Zoe Geary, global brand manager, Pele Sports

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Simon says As the last plastic Union Jack bowler hat is crumpled and thrown away, and the elastic finally snaps on the Prince Philip mask, slowly London is returning to normal.

I loved the Jubilee. I was in Hyde Park for the screening of the concert, and it was positively uplifting to be surrounded by so much goodwill and cheer. Admittedly, one sound system had no bass, and the other no treble, but these details were overcome by moving our picnic blanket to a scientifically judged spot between the two.

Bank Holiday Monday saw me in Sussex at a BBQ lunch to celebrate my second cousin’s first birthday. I may have got this wrong; she is my cousin’s daughter. Does that mean she is my second cousin or cousin once removed? Well, you get the idea. Anyway, it meant missing the much heralded hog roast in Norfolk, together with a ceremony by the bishop to plant new roses round the church doorway. Tough call, as I do love a good village get-together.

As some consolation, last month saw the Itteringham Open Gardens Day. My garden is the size of a pygmy postage stamp, but is unbearably cute with roses and clematis growing round the windows and a positive riot of lupins and colour.

I claim no credit for this. I bought it like that and have done nothing since, except cut it to the ground every January and watch in amazement as it comes up again. The day is for a good cause as the funds go to keeping the village shop open. So my long-suffering mother makes about 50 jars of her prize-winning jam and marmalade, and we sell it at the garden gate.

Last year, we sold out, and raised £80, which went down very well with the shop committee. I was banking on beating that with a more aggressive sales approach, which involved free samples on homemade scones. However, despite the sun coming out, the visitors didn’t. And those that did were noticeably more reluctant to part with their money. What had been an easy sale at £2.50 last year became a very considered purchase, or not, this year.

This turned into a trend and, by the end of the day, I had only sold half and taken a measly £50.

Insignificant though this must seem, there is actually something important happening here. For this is the squeezed middle; the Waitrose class. For them to be hesitating over a jar of jam shows just how deep this recession has now gone.

So what better time to open another shop?

As I write, the phone goes – it’s my lawyer. We have completed on the lease for a new store in Crystal Palace; South London’s very own newest up-and-coming suburb. Now I know where to put the unsold jam...

Simon Carter is the ceo of the eponymous brand and retail stores.

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Opinion

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The Bottomley line Pitti serves up treats in the heat Wow, that was some heat that hit us as we got off the plane in Firenze – all 100 degrees of it. This was not going to be easy work, me thought. Usually when you arrive in a country where the sun is so fierce you could fry an egg on the runway, immediate thoughts are of swimming pools and ice cold beers. Not trade shows and a “let’s get to work” mentality! Still, work it was and, let’s not be too hard done by here, plenty of play thrown in for good measure, too.

Stone Island’s 30th anniversary drinks and exhibition launch kicked off proceedings for evening one, swiftly followed by England’s victory over Ukraine in the Euros to send us through top of the group – watched at The Old Stove Irish pub by a selection of usual suspects from the UK. We had something to shout about, at that point in the tournament anyway.

Next stop was, of course, the Gillie Bar again where a lot of UK faces mixed, though it did seem a bit down on numbers. Might have been something to do with the prices, which seem to go up at an alarming rate with each visit (is it just us they charge those prices? Are they trying to tell us something?).

Or it could have been the fact that Baracuta was holding a big party to celebrate the brand’s 75th anniversary – courtesy of new Italian owners WP Lavori in Corso (or their partner company anyhow), themselves celebrating 30 years of distributing and making great brands. DJs Norman Jay and Gilles Peterson were spinning the tunes at the event. They were both on my flight out and I embarrassingly mistook Peterson for a retailer at Gatwick! Deep shame. Anyhow, I managed to get a lift to the party for last knockings and went back into the night about 2am, found a dodgy takeaway open near my hotel and eventually crashed at 3am. A perfect way to prepare for a full day at a show with the sun seemingly even more aggressive than the day we landed. Still, that’s Pitti for you.

Shaking off the hangover, or at least sweating it out, the show was inspiring enough and proof that there really is some great menswear product out there right now. I struggled big time to narrow down my “six picks” this time round because I saw so much I liked, but it’s given me plenty of ammo for future issues and a real taste for the new season.

mwb deputy editor Tom Bottomley: our man on the inside of menswear Tailors highlight how suits have changed in the Queen’s 60-year reign Bespoke tailors Norton & Townsend have charted how suits have changed during the Queen’s reign. While people have increasingly got heavier since 1952, suits have got lighter – by up to as much as 75 per cent, or so they claim.

In 1952, when Queen Elizabeth II was crowned, fabric for most suits weighed an average of 24 ounces per running yard, while today that figure goes as low as six ounces. Lightweight cloths coupled with technology that allows the fabric to breathe are the main reasons why suits have shed their pounds. Managing director Austen Pickles says it is almost impossible to get mills to manufacture heavier cloth now, unless it’s for a shooting jacket or tweed suit. He says, “The trend for lighter fabrics fits in with current manufacturing techniques but it also reveals a change in the way we have lived our lives during the Queen’s 60 years on the throne. If you go back to the 50s, men wore suits seven days a week despite the fact they were made out of pretty unforgiving cloth. Forward-wind to the 21st century and suits have had to change.” Funny, then, that we’re all now feeling the need for tweed once again. It seems the 50s are back.

London Collections: Men makes it mark It seems the three-day event and series of shows championing menswear in London were a resounding success. Launched at St James’s Palace by none other than Prince Charles, photographed in the papers chatting and laughing with (and looking more dapper than) David Walliams, it gave a welcome shot in the arm to the menswear business. After all, the international menswear market was worth a not inconsiderable £20bn in 2011 and is apparently growing faster than womenswear. It would appear men are becoming more style savvy, clothes maketh the man and all that. So why the hell should London not be a place to celebrate it with vigour? It should be the fashion capital of the world!

The front row at the Spencer Hart show at the Old Selfridges Hotel featured TV presenters Dermot O’Leary (not pictured) and Reggie Yates, celebrity male supermodel David Gandy, and former Suede front man Brett Anderson. Actually involved in the finale of Hart’s catwalk show were ex England rugby player Lawrence Dallaglio and actor Benedict Cumberbatch. An unlikely mix, but it seemed to work. Meanwhile, at the other end of the spectrum, away from the glaring lights and celebrity fest, Fashion East was given the privilege of using the old MI5 building at 3 Carlton Gardens, a wonderful historic townhouse owned by The Crown Estate and formerly part of King George IV’s estate, but currently sitting empty. Fashion East was promoting emerging British menswear design talent as always, and how great for them to have such a prestigious address in St James’s – even if it was just for the two days. Hopefully none of the still-at-the-skint-stage designers tried to claim squatters’ rights.

To read more from Tom, visit the MWB blog at mwb-online.co.uk

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Directory

Directory Big sizes

Casualwear

Headwear

Rails

Suits   

 

          

Shop fittings

   Unit 63 (Sixth Floor) Regent Studios 8 Andrews Road, Hackney, London E8 4QN Tel: 0207 254 8888 Fax: 0207 254 8889 Email: trimtexclothing@btconnect.com

Arctic Fox • Hats • Gloves Scarves • Sunglasses • Ski Goggles Tel: 01923 210646 Fax: 01923 210647 Email: info@bullseyeinternation.co.uk

Wanted



Mannequins

     

Steamers & irons

         

Casualwear

Garment stands Promotional clothing & merchandising

  

  

   



   



           

To advertise please call Lauren on

01484 846069 or email lauren@ras-publishing.com

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Directory

Agents wanted

August 

    

Selected Homme

First look at Moda MWB takes a look at Moda Gent, Moda Footwear and Moda Accessories, bringing together your essential guide to the UK’s biggest national exhibition

The main event The key spring/summer 2013 trends from the mainstream menswear market

Discussing Diesel Diesel’s Jonny Hewlett on the future of denim

Editor’s diary MWB editor Victoria Jackson highlights the key trends and developments from Berlin

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mwb

July12

People

94

Q&A Carl Easton Name of business: TCA Showroom Business title: Sales manager Date of birth: 24 May 1966 Place of birth: Burton upon Trent, Staffordshire Now lives: Essex Career history: 1984-1994 – Jon Paul Fashions, Derbyshire 1994-1998 – Various sales jobs, Derbyshire (including black bin bags) 1998-2006 – Peter Werth 2006-2008 – The Focus Group 2008-2010 – Agent/denim consultant 2011-present – Sales manager, TCA Showroom

What do you consider to be the defining moment of your career? Moving to London from Derbyshire in 1998 to manage the first Peter Werth standalone store near Carnaby Street, leading to the opportunity of working on the wholesale side around 2001, when the “white collar and cuff shirt” went mental.

What qualities do you look for in the people you work with? Enthusiasm, passion, fantastic personalities, wanting to learn and a good sense of humour.

What is the best thing about what you do? Making the call to buyers, getting an appointment, seeing them in the showroom (our new one in Chelsea is amazing), presenting the brands we offer, writing an order, then seeing the goods in store.

And the worst? Not getting a seat on the train in the morning to get to work. Everything else concerning work, I love.

If I wasn’t doing this, I would be…?

A sports/athletics coach. I used to coach kids when I lived in Derbyshire.

What is the best decision you’ve ever made?

Moving from Derbyshire to London. It was a massive decision to leave family behind, but it was one of those situations where I would have regretted it for ever if I hadn’t moved.

Who is your mentor? David Summers (from my Peter Werth days). When I moved from retail to wholesale at Peter Werth to be the main contact for the customer, I worked closely with David, and learnt so much – everything from costings to production.

Which icon do you admire the most? David Bowie.

I’ve been a big fan from a young age, and loved the way he completely changed his image many times but still managed to look fantastic, even in his Glam Rock days.

What are your favourite shopping haunts?

Brighton – I love wandering around the Lanes finding quirky shops.

What era do you think produced the most memorable styles? The 60s. I liked the tailoring and fit of the suits, the haircuts, shirt collar shapes and how sharp most people looked.

If you were an item of clothing, what would it be?

A tailored, two-button, jet black, single-breasted suit with slim trouser. It personifies style.

What is your idea of perfect happiness? Anything that involves being with my eight-year-old son.

He is my world, and takes me away from the stresses and strains.

What is your favourite film scene? “A census taker once tried to test me. I ate his liver with some fava beans and a nice chianti” – from The Silence of the Lambs.

What is your most treasured possession? Apart from my son, my waterproof running jacket – especially with how bad our summer has been. It’s worth its weight in gold.

If you could visit one destination in the world, where would it be? I love to travel. I’ve been to a lot of places for work, particularly in Europe where, unfortunately, I never get the chance to do the tourist thing. I’d love to go to the Maldives and get away from it all.

If you could live in the shoes of one person for a day, who would it be and what would you do?

Richard Branson – I would find out how he plans his day and how involved he gets in everything.

What is the one thing people are least likely to know about you? That I live in sunny Essex, as I still have a Derbyshire accent, even after living in Essex for so long.

What is the worst present you’ve ever had?

A flask. My girlfriend at the time thought it was a great present.

What invention could you not live without? Running shoes – running is a such a stress-buster and helps me to think about everything that is going on.

What is your life philosophy? So many things have happened over the last 10 years that have made me a stronger person. No matter how difficult things are, you just need to get on with it.

What would the title of your autobiography be?

If I Knew Then What I Know Now. •