MWB MAGAZINE FEBRUARY ISSUE 228

ISSUE 228 | FEBRUARY 2016 | £6.95 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

BEST IN SHOW THE NAMES TO CATCH AT THIS MONTH’S MODA UK — COMING HOME JOHAN LINDEBERG ON RETURNING TO HIS EPONYMOUS LABEL

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E D I T I O N

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MIDLANDS, SOUTH AND CHANNEL ISLANDS SIMON BEARD Phone: 079 32 172944 Email: simonbeard3@aol.com WALES, NORTH, CHESHIRE, SCOTLAND ROB DAVIES Phone: 077 87 79 38 63 Email: rabcharl@freenetname.co.uk

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | CONTENTS | 07

F E A T U R E S 14

Online Insider

Advice, news and issues online

16

Retail Insider

The latest in-store news

18

Jubilant Joules

The growth of the British lifestyle label

20

Ask the experts

Tackling the issues affecting you

25

Product News

Rounding up the key stories this month

30

In-season stock

Sand storm

32

In-season stock

Prints charming

34

Fresh from Florence

Highlights from Pitti Uomo

36

Street shooting

Capturing Italian style

40

London Collections Men

The key trends to emerge for a/w 16

42

Life with character

Celebrating 20 years with J Shoes

48

Moda

The names to watch at this month’s exhibition, spanning tailoring, outdoors, lifestyle and footwear

62

Rolling back the years

Showcasing standout product for the new season

78

Nous sommes Paris

Discovering talent direct from Paris

R E G U L A R S 9 10 22

Comment News Interview

Johan Lindeberg

80 83 86

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With…

Blake Mycoskie

Front cover: Suit: Gibson £94 01405 782830 Shirt: Eton price on request 020 7495 0028

We are Loake www.loake.co.uk

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | COMMENT | 09

COMMENT E D I T O R Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — D E P U T Y

E D I T O R

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — C O N T R I B U T O R S Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — W R I T E R Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com — D E S I G N E R S Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — S E N I O R

S A L E S

M A N A G E R

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — S U B S C R I P T I O N S Phil Cowley phil.cowley@moda-exhibitions.co.uk — H E A D

O F

M E N S W E A R

Silvia Collins silvia@moda-uk.co.uk — E D I T O R I A L

D I R E C T O R

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — P O R T F O L I O

D I R E C T O R

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — M A R K E T I N G

D I R E C T O R

Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — M A N A G I N G

D I R E C T O R

Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —

MWB is published 9 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2016 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved.

Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

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As our international travels have drawn to a close, and we prepare for the domestic trade exhibitions here in the UK, reports from across Europe indicate one of the busiest seasons for a number of years.

— The a/w 16 buying calendar started on home turf with London Collections Men, bringing surprises from the likes of Christopher Bailey, who sent models down the runway in retro-inspired tracksuit tops for Burberry, while Tiger of Sweden moved away from its signature palette of black and grey to add a few earthy tones to its a/w 16 offer. We take a look at the key trends from the catwalks, including the crop top – I’m waiting to see that translate to the streets of Yorkshire – over on p40.

Meanwhile, on p36 you’ll find our snaps from the Fortezza da Basso, where peacocks and photographers meet twice a year – mating season for menswear if you like. And although the three piece suit was still in abundance, there was definitely a more relaxed sense of dressing. The grounds were so busy, however, photographers could be overheard complaining about the less stylish continually stepping into frame.

Berlin followed, and after speaking to a number of brands who exhibited at Panorama, Premium and SEEK, I was pleased to hear order books were being filled up and stands were busy throughout the four-day event. As Andrew Tompsett, head of UK sales for Merc, said following the show: “Panorama was a great show and was a fine example of a serious, no-nonsense trade show where people were doing business. The ‘grey’ euro/pound has never been so important, it seems, in Germany.”

The MWB team then travelled to Paris, discovering new labels which you may not have come across before. Turn to p78 for our rundown of eight brands to consider for the new season from Capsule and MAN. From new trends to excite – bar the crop top, mind – to a buoyant atmosphere across the shows, it’s been a positive and inspiring start to the year.

But the season isn’t over just yet. As I type, the team are preparing to visit contemporary London show Jacket Required, which continues to grow season upon season, as well as Moda UK, which welcomes a new, improved layout, the introduction of an outdoor and lifestyle category and a host of fresh new seminars and presentations to help both buyers and brands. If you haven’t registered for the show yet, just visit moda-uk.co.uk before 21 February 2016.

I hope to see many of you there.

Victoria Jackson Editor

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. RAS Publishing Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | NEWS | 10

N E W S

BARNEY WATERS APPOINTED NEW K-SWISS BRAND PRESIDENT

UK RETAIL SET TO BE BOOSTED BY INTERNATIONAL VISITORS The UK retail sector is expected to be boosted by an increase in international visitor numbers throughout 2016, new research has revealed. Despite a low average growth in spend overall for 2015, analysts predict that the UK remains top of international visitors’ travel lists, and that spend from affluent tourists will benefit the UK retail sector.

VisitBritain has forecasted a 3.8 per cent year-on-year increase in visitors to the UK for the year, up to 36.7 million, who are expected to spend 4.2 per cent more than in 2015. These figures are backed by retail tourism experts Global Blue, who agree that several changes, both in effect and proposed, including the recent China visa reform and continual growth from the US and the Middle East, will impact the way international visitors choose to spend their time and money in the UK. “Across Europe in 2015, visitor arrivals are expected to have risen by 5 per cent, nearly 30 million more than in the previous year. For Europe’s most valuable long-haul market, the USA, the eurozone remains exceptional value for money as a result of euro weakness, so we can expect retailers to benefit from visitors’ higher spending power, especially in the premium retail centres of cities such as Paris, Rome and London,” says research consultant Paul Rickard. “Chinese arrivals continue to remain buoyant across Europe, and in spite of the slowdown in the Chinese economy, we don’t expect this to have a marked impact on visitor demand.”

Research also suggests that the proposed change to a two-year visa for Chinese visitors announced this January will further support Chinese tourists and their shopping drive in the UK. Gordon Clark, head of commercial Global Blue UK and Ireland, comments, “The recent change to the UK visa for Chinese nationals is positive news for UK retailers.

Chinese shoppers will be able to travel to the UK more frequently and with more ease assisted by the two-year multiple entry allowance, making their £742 spend per transaction even more accessible and powerful.”

The continuing strength of the USA and Middle East is also expected to continue.

Middle Eastern spend has significantly overtaken Chinese in the UK, with the USA crawling up the table to sit third behind China, suggesting retailers should not focus their futures purely on Chinese potential.

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Multi-brand lifestyle company K-Swiss Global Brands (KSGB), a division of E-Land Group which owns K-Swiss, Palladium, PLDM, OTZ Shoes, SUPRA Footwear and KR3W Denim Co., has restructured its leadership team, introducing a dedicated brand leader for each of its labels.

Truman Kim, Chairman of KSGB, has become Chairman and CEO, while Larry Remington, who served as KSGB President and CEO for the past two years, retires. Barney Waters has been appointed as brand president of K-Swiss. In his previous role as CMO of KSGB, Waters built brand and marketing strategies for all brands. In his new capacity, he will focus on all aspects of the storied K-Swiss brand.

“Under this new [leadership] model, we feel that we will have more focused attention on each brand while continuing to leverage our shared services on the back end such as IT, finance, accounting and operations,” says Kim. —

MEET THE MANUFACTURER SECURES HEADLINE SPONSOR Meet the Manufacturer, a conference and sourcing event for British manufacturers of clothing, textiles and leather goods, has announced Segura as its headline sponsor for this year’s event, which takes place on 25-26 May at The Old Truman Brewery, London. Segura provides software that enables businesses to monitor and control their supply chains, allowing them to make cost savings and mitigate risk. “We’re delighted to be working in partnership with Segura for our next event,” says Kate Hills, CEO and founder of Meet the Manufacturer and Make it British, a website to help promote UK manufacturing and British-made brands. “This comes at a time when there’s an ever-growing enthusiasm and passion for reinstating Britain as the world centre for fashion and textile production and we look forward to working together.”

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | NEWS | 11

NEWS IN BRIEF

SPERRY TOP-SIDER AND CASELYHAYFORD COLLABORATE

STRONG TRADING FOR PRETTY GREEN

Heritage and lifestyle brand Sperry Top-Sider has teamed up with leading London design duo CaselyHayford. The collaboration will draw on shared values such as authenticity and a sportswear aesthetic, which underpin the DNA of both businesses, and will build on Sperry’s rich brand story within the UK’s contemporary fashion market.

“Sperry and Casely-Hayford are two brands that stand for style and innovation. The opportunity to work together and build a unique collection has been one of the most rewarding collaborations we have done. Both teams are very excited to see it all come to life in a/w 16,” says Sperry brand director Noah Bernard. This is mirrored by Charlie CaselyHayford, founder of the eponymous label: “Infusing an American classic like the boat shoe with nuances of British subculture is a great collision of both of our worlds.’’

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Pretty Green has released its trading update for the six weeks to 31 December 2015, showing a solid performance pre-Christmas. Total group sales rose 16.5 per cent or 15 per cent on a like-for-like basis, while international sales increased by 24 per cent.

E-commerce sales increased by 27 per cent, reflecting the continued strength of the group’s online proposition, while cumulative net sales for the three months were up 14 per cent or 12 per cent on a like-for-like basis. “We are delighted with the strong trading over the Christmas period and Q1 which we believe is a reflection of our investment in further developing the awareness of Pretty Green in the UK and internationally,” says Richard Ralph, CEO. “We remain confident we will continue to deliver growth in 2016.”

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MATCHESFASHION.COM MOVES TO THE SHARD

H&M TO OPEN COVENT GARDEN FLAGSHIP

Luxury retailer Matchesfashion.com is among the latest high-profile signings to take up residence at London’s iconic The Shard building. Matchesfashion. com will occupy a 35,000 sq ft office space over Levels 7 and 8, taking the office space let at London Bridge Quarter to over 1 million sq ft, which is 85 per cent of the estate.

Matchesfashion.com is The Shard’s first letting to be confirmed this year, following 12 lettings in 2015, and the second major fashion brand located there. It joins the likes of Tiffany, Campari, The Office Group, Gallup, Sage and Warwick Business School, taking the total number of office occupiers in The Shard to 26 across 15 business sectors with 50 per cent of the businesses drawn to the building from the West End. Only five full levels remain available in the 72-floor building.

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Swedish fashion chain H&M is set to open a new flagship store in Langley Court, Covent Garden, London later this year. The store will occupy a historic 19th-century warehouse building within Mercers’ Yard, a major retail development due for completion this autumn, with H&M one of the anchor signings. “We are delighted to secure H&M as the anchor retailer for Mercers’ Yard. It is important to the company that the redevelopments retain the Covent Garden character and this refurbished warehouse building does just that. It forms the centrepiece not just for Mercers’ Yard but our entire Covent Garden Estate, providing a superb retail flagship store,” says Bill Scarborough, Chairman of Long Acre Estates. H&M’s Langley Court store will offer womenswear, menswear, beauty and Divided, with more details to be revealed closer to opening.

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FEEFO SECURES LEADING RETAILERS AS NEW MERCHANTS Feefo, the purchaser verified reviews platform, has announced that the fashion retailers French Connection, Gant, Jane Norman and Peacocks have signed up as new merchants, joining the brand’s existing list of retail clients. Since its inception in 2010 Feefo has provided its users with reliable feedback from verified and genuine customers who have made a purchase and are invited to leave feedback. Recognised around the world as a trusted supplier of independent and verified ratings, the reviews platform has included over 2,000 merchants to date, including Expedia, Hiscox, TK Maxx and The White Company.

Andrew Mabbutt, chief executive of Feefo, says, “I am thrilled that we are working with French Connection, Gant, Jane Norman and Peacocks. Retail is an exciting area for us and one that continues to change as the online space grows and evolves. It’s proven that genuine customer reviews make a tangible difference to online businesses, and we’re looking forward to being part of these retailers’ success stories.”

— BRANDS OF TOMORROW REVEALED Walpole has revealed the 2016 selection for its esteemed Brands of Tomorrow programme, which provides 12 chosen brands with bespoke learning under the mentorship of dynamic leaders from some of Britain’s finest luxury brands, including Thomas Pink, Harrods, Bremont, The Savoy, Rolls Royce and Alexander McQueen. The winners were revealed during a high-profile evening at The Savoy in London and include contemporary womenswear label The Fold; global urban cycling brand Blaze, which was founded in 2012 by Emily Brooke; London-based luxury bag brand Millu Millu; Half Hitch Gin, a multi-award winning spirit brand; handmade spectacles and sunglasses brand Cubitts and activewear brand Monreal. Via carefully tailored learning including one-to-one tutelage from industry leaders and a year-long workshop schedule, the selected brands will also be given access to Walpole’s established membership of over 160 names, including Britain’s most prestigious brands and cultural institutions.

— MEN FEEL SEXUALISED IN ADVERTS Latest research from Mintel has revealed that more than one quarter of males feel sexualised in advertising, in the same way as women. Among men aged 16–24, 17 per cent agree that male models in advertising have made them more self-conscious of their looks. Men are also more likely to list being in good shape as a future priority than they are to list having a relationship. The findings suggest that ‘Hunkvertising’ is causing men to avert their eyes away from advertising, with 50 per cent of men saying they don’t pay much attention to advertising.

— JOHN LEWIS EXPANDS INTO DUBAI Department store John Lewis will expand into the Middle East in spring next year.

The UK store has entered into a deal with Middle Eastern department store Robinsons which means John Lewis will open a 15,000 sq ft shop-in-shop within its Dubai Festival City Mall. The move comes part of a wider plan for global expansion which will see John Lewis open another shop-inshop in Kuala Lumpur in March next year.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | NEWS | 12

NEWS IN BRIEF

JOULES SALES CONTINUE TO SOAR

LONDON’S WEST END WELCOMES VISA TRIUMPH

British lifestyle brand Joules delivered another strong sales performance over the Christmas period (the six-week period to 3rd January) with total revenue up 11.3 per cent against last year’s comparable period and growth across all channels.

Total retail sales grew by 13.1 per cent, demonstrating the strength of the brand’s multichannel capability, in particular following the September relaunch of its e-commerce site Joules.com. The Christmas period saw strong growth in gifting products across all genders, as the brand increased the breadth of its offer. The trading period continues the strong performance of the financial year to date, with total revenue up 17.4 per cent for the period 1 June 2015 to 3 January 2016 against the comparable timeframe last year. This reflects continued growth across all channels, both in the UK and internationally.

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New West End Company, which is the voice for 600 businesses across Bond Street, Regent Street and Oxford Street, has welcomed news that the standard visa for Chinese visitors is to be extended from six months to two years. As a founding member of the UK China Visa Alliance (UKCVA), a group of businesses focused on increasing Chinese tourist numbers to the UK, New West End Company has been leading efforts to persuade the Home Office to improve the visa application process. In October 2015, the Prime Minister announced visa rules would change and that the government was committed, in the medium term, to introducing a standard 10-year Chinese visitor visa. This would mean that Chinese visitors would only need to go through the visa application process once over a 10-year period.

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JOHN LEWIS LEEDS SECURES HEAD OF BRANCH

HAWICK KNITWEAR ENTERS ADMINISTRATION

John Lewis has confirmed that James Prince will become head of branch at its department store in Leeds, which is set to open in autumn 2016. John Lewis will invest £37 million in its 255,000 sq ft Leeds department store, which will be one of the largest outside London. Prince will lead the team of 550 staff, the recruitment of which will begin in the next few months. Having started his John Lewis career eight years ago as an operations manager at John Lewis Liverpool, Prince has been head of branch at John Lewis Sheffield for the past four years. Over the last two years he has also been chair of the Sheffield BID Board. John Lewis will be the anchor tenant of the Victoria Gate development in Leeds’ Victoria Quarter.

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Over 100 jobs have been lost following the closure of Scottish knitwear manufacturer Hawick Knitwear.

KPMG have been appointed as administrators at the request of the company’s director. Up to 123 members of staff were made redundant with immediate effect, with a further 56 workers retained.

The company’s finances have suffered from increasing production costs and reducing margins, while attempts to secure new investment have been unsuccessful. “Unfortunately, extremely difficult market conditions have led to the current position,” says Blair Nimmo, joint administrator and head of restructuring at KPMG in Scotland. “It is regrettable that a high level of redundancies has been necessary at this stage and we will be working with employees and the relevant government agencies to ensure that the full range of support is available to those who are affected.”

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MANCHESTER UNITED AND COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR TEAM UP Columbia Sportswear has been unveiled as Manchester United’s first Official Outdoor Apparel Partner. As part of the agreement, the well-known American outdoor brand will design and create dual branded outerwear for outdoor endeavours, including hiking, climbing and mountaineering, as well as water and snow activities.

The partnership with Manchester United is indicative of the demand for Columbia’s outdoor gear.

Manchester United Group Managing Director Richard Arnold comments: “Manchester United is proud to be partnering with Columbia Sportswear to bring our fans a new and exciting range of club branded products.”

— PETER WERTH LAUNCHES NEW ACCESSORIES COLLECTION Peter Werth is set to launch a new a/w 2016 accessories collection, developed and manufactured by the Arnold Wills Group which currently holds the licensing rights for the UK and American markets. The licensing partnership allows the Peter Werth brand to utilise the sourcing and production expertise within the Arnold Wills Group, which is among the biggest accessories manufacturers in the UK. The collection will be sold alongside the a/w 16 apparel range through three UKbased showrooms: Red Alert Agency in Manchester, Agent One Ltd in Birmingham and Peter Werth’s own London showroom on Eastcastle Street, W1.

— BELSTAFF LAUNCHES NEW S/S 16 CAMPAIGN Belstaff has launched its new menswear campaign ‘Worship the Ground’, showcasing the legendary Belstaff Trialmaster boot - one of the brand’s most iconic designs since its creation in 1955 - and other associated products. Belstaff has secured Sir Ranulph Fiennes, the legendary polar pioneer hailed by the Guinness Book of Records as “the world’s greatest living explorer”, together with US stuntman Riley Harper, who the brand has worked with in the past. The pair star in a campaign, shot by famed photographer Rankin, capturing a series of authentic portraits and film and exploring what the phrase ‘Worship the Ground’ means to each of them.

— UK RETAIL CRIME SOARS TO £613M The annual bill for UK retail crime has risen to its highest level since records began, according to industry body the British Retail Consortium. Last year’s figure reached £613m - a rise of 2 per cent on the previous year – while the average value of stolen goods rose to £325. The report did, however, reveal that the rise is mainly due to the rising value of the goods being stolen and the increased sophistication of criminals who “steal to order”. The BRC reassured retailers that the number of incidents of theft from shops had actually fallen for the second year running.

Customer theft still accounts for the majority of retail crime at around 83 per cent of the total number of incidents.

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W H E R E FAS H I O N CO M E S TO G E T H E R

2 1 - 2 3 Fe b r u a r y 2 0 1 6 NEC Birmingham Find out more and register for your ticket at moda-uk.co.uk

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | ADVICE | 14

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: FASHIONING A PERSONALISED APPROACH TO LOYALTY

RICHARD KOLODYNSKI is the senior vice president of European Operations at iVend Retail

Fashion brands are continuously developing loyalty programmes to recognise and reward loyal customers, yet a recent survey found a third (33 per cent) of UK shoppers are disappointed in the levels of personalisation in current schemes.

With a typical shopper being enrolled in up to three loyalty schemes on average this makes it imperative that retailers and fashion brands recognise where loyalty can be improved to effectively retain and reward loyal shoppers.

A great way to get consumers on side is to incorporate mobile personalisation: as many as 26 per cent of UK shoppers claimed that they would like personalised offers sent directly to their mobile device as they enter a physical store. Additionally, a quarter of consumers said they would benefit from regular incentives and offers being sent direct to their smartphone via an app, which will in turn enable them to claim rewards both online or in-store.

As well as personalisation, another area that is highlighted in needing refinement is the fragmentation between online and in-store loyalty scheme rewards. Almost a half of UK consumers (48 per cent) claimed to have missed out on reward offers by failing to secure the reward ahead of an expiry date. In addition to this, 15 per cent of these consumers admitted that they often forget to use loyalty cards, meaning further rewards are unused in-store.

These results highlight how today’s customers no longer differentiate between channels and fashion brands need to follow suit. Consumers choose the channel that most benefits them in terms of efficiency and financially and this is something that loyalty schemes need to digest, reflect on and respond to. A mobile-first strategy will enable fashion retailers to connect with consumers on a personal level over a device that’s always-tohand, engaging in a conversation where the retailer can understand the loyal customer and actively personalise incentives to suit their needs and interests.

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WEB WATCH

WWW.QASIMI.COM Menswear label Qasimi has launched a full e-commerce website, in conjunction with its s/s 16 collection. With a simple and easy to navigate design, the focus is on the product with detailed imagery, both model and still life. In celebration of the new season, the brand has partnered with Dazed and Confused, as well as hosting an event at Shop at Bluebird in Chelsea, London, which will feature an installation by set designer Gary Card.

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NEWS

HOUSE OF FRASER LETS BRANDS BID FOR WEBSITE SPACE Department store House of Fraser is partnering with e-commerce product placement platform Elevaate to allow brands to bid for digital shelf positioning on its website.

An initial trial allowed a select number of partner brands to bid to feature their products on the House of Fraser website, and the department store was so impressed with the successful test period that it will now offer the platform to all of its brand partners.

“Using the Elevaate cloud platform provides our brand partners with the flexibility to bid for digital shelf position in real time, which means key products can be promoted online to complement traditional in-store displays,” explains Andy Harding, chief customer officer at House of Fraser. “The platform will offer the agility our brand partners need to help them increase sales for specific products or collections.”

Elevaate chief executive officer Simon Harrow adds: “We’re seeing a number of the more progressive retailers wanting to work with Elevaate because they recognise the need for new, more efficient ways to capitalise on the growing revenue impact of online sales to their business.

“House of Fraser is choosing Elevaate because it sees the revenue potential of brands having the agility to manage the performance of their products online and invest in real time.”

The move comes as the department store reported a positive Christmas trading period, with like-for-like sale increasing by 5.3 percent year-on-year in the six weeks to 2 January 2016. Key sales periods included total sales on Black Friday increasing by 10 percent on 2014, and in the week leading up to Christmas Day like-for-like sales grew 6 percent, in addition to 68 percent online growth.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 16

RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry.

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VIEWPOINT ROGER CURRY is the menswear buyer and co-owner of Bodenhams in Ludlow.

Bodenhams is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB).

OXFORD STREET SET TO WELCOME 26 NEW RETAILERS One of London’s prime retail areas, Oxford Street, is expected to welcome no less than 26 new flagship stores by the end of 2016, following the opening of 11 retailers such as JD Sports, Matalan and Jackamo, according to real estate agency Savills. International retailers who are set to open up flagship stores include Stradivarius, opening the second quarter of this year, New Balance, aiming to open its first UK store in the third quarter of 2016 and Skechers, set to open its store in early 2017.

“This proliferation of flagships on Oxford Street is due to the vast number of shoppers the street attracts, which will only increase with the arrival of Crossrail and the key department stores continuing to strengthen their offer with investment and refurbishment programmes,” commented Sam Foyle, director of retail at Savills. “Landlords on the street have realised this is now the perfect time to capitalise on the increasing footfall and projected increase in spend and worked to truly establish Oxford as one of London and the world’s premier shopping streets alongside Bond and Regent.”

In order to accommodate the number of new flagship stores, several existing rental units have been consolidated on Oxford Street. To make way for more arrivals, a further 57 units will be consolidated to create 13 new flagship stores.

— NEWS IN BRIEF DEMAND FOR LUXURY RETAIL SPACE DRIVES RENT INCREASES Rents for prime Central London shops soared by 9 per cent in the final quarter of 2015, the fastest growth for the sector since 1988, according to the latest CBRE Prime Rents and Yields Monitor. Rents for high street shops in Central London rose by 18 per cent for the whole of 2015, highlighting the growing demand for units in London’s most soughtafter luxury retail destinations. Nearly a third of retail locations in Central London monitored by CBRE saw rental increases in the last three months of the year.

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SLOANE STANLEY LAUNCHES REVOLVING POP-UP SHOP Sloane Stanley Estate has announced the launch of The Concept Store, a permanent and dedicated pop-up space that offers brands the opportunity to have a high street presence on the King’s Road, one of London’s most iconic shopping and lifestyle destinations. Located at 340 King’s Road, the 1,178 sq ft store will feature one-off exhibitions and a range of clothing and accessories on a rolling basis over the next 12 months. Sloane Stanley is one of the oldest landowning estates in London, and has been part of Chelsea for over 250 years.

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As a fifth-generation independent family business, we have heritage and reputation on our side. This is a great asset but it also presents its challenges. The last few years have involved a lot of careful manoeuvring to retain our loyal customers but not neglect the next generation. Buying has been challenging in this respect. I’ve been mindful to pay attention to the younger, more contemporary man and bring in that new blood while not alienating those 70-years-plus customers who have been shopping with us all their life.

I can honestly say that I feel menswear is entering a new era and I’m finding there’s a vast amount of choice which bridges the two demographics. The customer of 40 years plus is dressing far younger than he did 10 years ago and the younger men are adopting more sophisticated, tailored styles. The brands have supported this evolution and as a result many collections appeal to both customers. Tweed is a fabric which has evolved from traditional and conservative to contemporary and urban, as more men style a blazer with jeans. Barbour is a case in point. The brand offers great products for the young and for the older man and the merchandising encourages men to step out of their traditional comfort zones.

For s/s 16, we have introduced Levi’s which I feel positive about. Our older customers trust us as we steer them towards more smart/casual combinations and I will be interested to see how it performs across the board. Olymp shirts is another brand which I buy for its crossover appeal as well as the superb quality and fit. I have injected some more premium items into our offering too.

Loake, Barbour and Sarome grooming products represent some affordable luxury options for the aspirational customer whose loyalty we hope to attract at a young age. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 17

SHOPPED: STUDIO 148 How has the winter season been for you and what is your outlook for spring?

Winter has been quite slow, mainly because of the mild weather, but I’m optimistic for spring. We have some good products coming in, such as printed shirts from 1 Like No Other, Sand and Duchamp, and also some linen blazers from 1 Like No Other. I think people are ready for something new, and we will start getting our spring stock in mid to late February.

Looking ahead to Easter, people go away and tend to want to buy something new for the season then. We’re also getting in 7 For NITA SHARMA All Mankind jeans, and they have a new fit which I think will go OWNER, STUDIO 148, 148 HIGH STREET, down well with my customers.

TEDDINGTON, MIDDLESEX TW11 8HZ

Have you now built up a solid customer base?

We’ve been here three and a half years now, so we have built up a good list of regular customers, and we email them to let them know what we have that’s new. We have Kingston not far away, which has Bentalls department store, so we have to try to offer something different from an independent perspective. The customers are trusting my buying, and seem open to new things, or brands that aren’t all over the internet.

Are you going to any shows?

I think I’m going to go to Moda this time as I’m hoping to maybe pick up a couple of new brands to introduce to my mix, and that could well be the right place for me to do that.

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IN FOCUS: ARKIVE 36-40 SEAGATE, DUNDEE DD1 2EJ

ESTABLISHED: 1997 BRANDS: ADIDAS, NIKE, CLARKS ORIGINALS, BILLIONAIRE BOYS CLUB, STÜSSY, THE QUIET LIFE, CARHARTT, RAISED BY WOLVES, FRED PERRY, LACOSTE LIVE, LEE, LEVI’S, MARTIAL ARTIST, NUDIE, GARBSTORE, PATAGONIA, WOOD WOOD, FOLK, YMC

VACANCY RATES CONTINUE TO DROP Vacancy rates across UK shopping centres dropped for the third consecutive quarter in a row at the end of last year, according to the latest figures from the British Council of Shopping Centres.

The data reveals a 0.8 per cent fall in vacancies year-on-year for the final quarter of 2015. This follows a decline of 0.8 per cent in the previous quarter and a 1.4 per cent drop in the second quarter of the year, compared with the same period in 2014.

The number of multiple retailers in shopping centres increased by 1.5 per cent while there was a 1.5 per cent fall in independents.

England and Scotland were the bestperforming nations with a 0.9 per cent and 1.1 per cent drop, while there was no change in the vacancy rates recorded for Welsh shopping centres. Regionally, shopping centres in Yorkshire and The Humber and West Midlands saw the largest drops in vacancies, recording a 1.6 per cent and 1.5 per cent drop, respectively.

Edward Cooke, director of policy and public affairs at the British Council of Shopping Centres, said: “Declining vacancy rates over three consecutive quarters in 2015 indicates a longer term trend of strong consumer confidence which we predict will continue into 2016.

“Our research also shows increasing competition for space coming from multiple chains and international retailers which are starting to grow at a faster rate than independents.”

— NEWS IN BRIEF

Arkive is one of Scotland’s leading independent fashion retailers. The building that houses the shop was originally an 18th-century whiskey distillery, which was redeveloped into a retail shopping unit. It’s one of the oldest buildings in the Seagate area, near to Dundee’s city centre, and Arkive maintained the original character of the building, such as the original brickwork and arches, which it has used to help create different departments in-store. So in addition to the menswear area, there’s an area for womenswear and another for childrenswear, as well as a barbers.

There’s a good vibe to the shop, from the music played in-store to the excellent customer service provided, giving customers a unique shopping experience. It also creates special social events throughout the year to keep the local customers in tune with what the shop has going on.

New coming in for spring are YMC and Folk. The target market is generally in the 17 to 45 year-old age group, but due to the shop’s floor size, at 6,500 square feet, it has the opportunity to cater for a wide variety of fashion tastes. It also has a live DJ in the store every Saturday to keep the place buzzing.

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CALDERDALE RISING LAUNCHES TO HELP FLOODED BUSINESSES Calderdale Rising, which launched last month, has been founded to help support a number of the 1,250 businesses across the Calderdale region that were heavily affected by the 2015 Boxing Day floods. Over 70 businesses are taking part in the scheme, ranging from high street shops to professional services and firms in the industrial sector, many of which are still unable to open. Crowdfunding initiatives are different from traditional charity donations as they allow people to not only donate, but also to buy rewards, such as a 20 per cent discount in a number of shops in the town, and various other perks.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | INTERVIEW | 18

JUBILANT JOULES Last year, lifestyle brand Joules celebrated its 25th anniversary with record financial results and its 100th standalone store opening. Laura Turner speaks to the company’s commercial and international wholesale director, Kara Groves, to discover the strategies behind this iconic British brand’s success.

—

Laura Turner: What was your background prior to joining Joules?

Kara Groves: I’ve always worked in fashion. I worked my way up through merchandising at Dorothy Perkins, Miss Selfridge, Topshop and River Island, before joining Joules as commercial director in 2011. It’s an incredibly exciting time to be at Joules; the brand’s performance is going from strength to strength and I love being a part of that.

LT: How has your experience in the fashion sector helped you in your role at Joules?

KG: It has given me a great foundation in understanding the industry and how it operates at every level. Having also worked at Etam – where I was head of merchandising and

international planning for two years – I’ve had great exposure to international business and was thrilled to be able to bring that knowledge and expertise to Joules.

Having headed up the UK wholesale team at Joules for over three years, I also understand how best to work collaboratively with key partners and stockists in order to grow business together.

LT: What changes have you overseen at Joules?

KG: Since I joined in 2011, Joules has continued to evolve and grow with its customers. Our British heritage is incredibly important to us; we’re now evolving into a lifestyle brand that offers so much more than ever before. Clothing for men, women and children will always be at the heart of what we do, but we’ve also been working to build this

out. As well as introducing new ranges, from homeware to eyewear, we’ve been extending our existing lines. All of these developments require different approaches to planning across our channels.

LT: Joules recently opened its 100th standalone store. Can you tell me more about the brand’s retail developments?

KG: Opening our 100th store in Dublin in November was a milestone achievement for us, topped off by the opening of a further two stores a few days later in Sheffield and Harrogate, making it the biggest retail week in our history.

Our retail plan does go against the grain of many of our competitors; instead of reducing our retail estate, we’re actively working to grow it.

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We’ve also segmented our retail channel to meet our customers' needs, creating specially designed and stocked ‘travel stores’ at locations such as St Pancras Station in London, John Lewis Heathrow and Birmingham’s Grand Central Station.

Alongside this, we also have our ‘Beside the Seaside’ coastal stores at locations including Southwold in Suffolk, and St Ives and Padstow in Cornwall, again with a suitably tailored product offering. No matter the town or city, we want our stores to be at the heart of the local community, so their designs are bespoke to fit their surroundings, and the products on offer reflect what we think our customers will be looking for.

“ We have quite a few locations where we have a retail and wholesale presence operating alongside each other and we find that both continue to see the same levels of success, which some may find surprising.”

LT: Are there criteria for store locations?

KG: The main criteria have to be the potential demand in the area and the fit for the brand. A mix of locations is also vital to ensure we’re servicing all of our customers as well as possible.

Market towns are where Joules first saw its retail store growth. The demographic in these areas has always been a great fit for the brand and continues to be so. We, of course, also have our tailored store design approach to make them locally relevant, demonstrated by our travel and coastal stores.

LT: Where, geographically, is Joules targeting next for retail openings?

KG: We’re not focusing on any particular region, but we are always looking for good locations that feel right for the brand and have an appetite for Joules and what we have to offer.

LT: What channels does Joules sell through, and how do they complement each other?

KG: As well as our bricks and mortar, we sell through wholesale, catalogue, online and shows, the latter of which is where Joules first began over 25 years ago. Retail complements our online offer well, giving greater geographical coverage for our customers and supporting our Click & Collect proposition. Our wholesale channel means that those customers who don’t have a store nearby can still reach us, and we work hard to ensure those partners reflect the Joules brand as much as possible. Allowing our customer such a variety of choice in how they shop with us is a great part of our success.

LT: Other than retail, has investment been put into any of Joules’ other operations?

KG: We recently launched a new, fully responsive and contemporary website for greater customer satisfaction and engagement. There is a stronger focus on the visual appeal of the site, together with detailed imagery to put the products front and centre, highlighting quality and allowing customers to see detail and colours up close. We continue to invest in our international offering and last year increased our credit facility to enable us to meet the growing demand for our products in our main markets: the US and Germany.

LT: How many wholesale accounts do you have?

KG: Currently, over 500 stockists across the UK, a figure that continues to grow. In the US, we are, surprisingly, already stocked in over 300 independent stores as well as some key retailers such as Nordstrom.

KARA GROVES

LT: What support does Joules provide to its independent stockists? How do you balance Joules’ own-store retail presence with the wholesale operation?

KG: We have great teams in place to ensure our stockists receive as much support as necessary, whether it be through guidance on product performance to help during season selection, or simply providing assets and marketing support to enable them to capitalise on partnering with us.

Our wholesale operation allows us to reach a far greater audience and provide greater accessibility and convenience for our existing customers. We recognise it’s a hugely important area of our business and continue to place a great focus on supporting and growing this area alongside our own-store retail presence. We have quite a few locations where we have a retail and wholesale presence operating alongside each other and we find that both continue to see the same levels of success, which some may find surprising.

LT: What are the plans for wholesale, both in the UK and internationally?

KG: Over the last year we’ve refined our forwardselling wholesale product ranges, offering tailored collections to ensure a point of difference. Short order options have also been introduced for key partners. This is something we intend to develop going forward to ensure we support our partners as much as possible. Equally, we work hard to ensure that relevant product is available early in the season when our stockists want it.

LT: Joules recently enjoyed record financial results. To what do you attribute this growth?

KG: The record performance – which was a great way to mark our 25th anniversary – shows that we understand our customer. Even though many other lifestyle brands are reducing their retail estate, we know that customers still want to be able to see the product and feel its quality or try

it on for size. The success that has followed our strategic increase in store numbers is testament to this, with retail sales representing more than 34 per cent of total sales. The international side of our business is also flourishing, with sales up 66 per cent.

LT: Are there plans for developing any of Joules’ product categories?

KG: We’re always working to ensure we’re meeting our customers’ needs, and we are so pleased with our current collections and their performance. I think our recent financial results are a great demonstration of how we understand what’s relevant for us, and the opportunities we’re able to capitalise on. We will continue to develop and evolve our categories as we do now.

LT: How will Joules continue developing as a lifestyle brand?

KG: Our products are always designed with our customer in mind, and as they evolve, we evolve with them. So, although we are always on the lookout for opportunities to extend our offering, we’ll only do it if there is a need and demand.

At the moment, we’re really happy that we’re able to deliver not just clothing, but also eyewear through our partnership with Mondottica, as well as homeware and pet beds. All of these collections are doing really well and it’s great to see such appetite amongst our customers.

LT: How would you sum up what the Joules brand of today is all about?

KG: Joules is a quintessentially British lifestyle brand that celebrates its style and uniqueness.

We’re all about the ‘five-to-nine’, when you can spend time with your friends and family, be it a Sunday brunch or a refreshing walk.

From the very first bright pink wellies, Joules has always offered something colourful, different and unexpected, and I think that is what really resonates with our customers and makes us stand out from the crowd.

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ASK THE EXPERTS MWB speaks to three key industry insiders this month to bring you straight talking legal and business advice.

— HOW CAN E-COMMERCE BRANDS USE SOCIAL MEDIA TO REVOLUTIONISE THE CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE?

JONNY ROSS is web development and digital marketing specialist at Jonny Ross Consultancy www.jonnyross.com

Social media is a powerful tool for e-commerce brands looking to engage and build long-term relationships with customers.

Around 30 per cent of the world’s population is now on social media, and the average user spends 2.5 hours a day using social networks and microblogs. The way people access social media has changed too. One third of all web pages are now viewed on a phone rather than desktop.

UK shoppers top the table worldwide for shopping online.

Research from this time last year found that 66 per cent of the UK population had bought something online within the past month – more than in any other country. What does all this mean for UK e-commerce businesses?

Social media is a brilliant tool for e-commerce brands. Here are just some of the ways it can help you to improve your customer experience and build brand loyalty.

Customer service: social media allows you to reply quickly to customer queries. Also use search functions to find any negative brand mentions and quickly respond to turn grumpy customers into happy customers.

Market research: use your social networks to better segment your audience and understand your target demographics, so you can find out in real time what your customers care about. You can then tailor campaigns accordingly and deliver more targeted messages.

Customer acquisition: think of your social media profiles as an extension of your shop window. Consumers use social networks to research companies and products, so ask existing customers to write Facebook, Google or Yelp reviews. Optimise your profiles with keywords and ensure important information is easy to find.

Customer engagement: rather than focusing on sales, use social media to share what is unique about your brand, demonstrate your value and validate your marketing efforts. Design your social content to highlight the best, most unique, most surprising thing about your brand.

So how do big brands use social? The Topshop ‘Insideout’ blog, for example, has music and culture sections and features the latest fashion news, styling tips and cultural tip-offs. Both are supported by an active Topshop presence on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, Google+, Pinterest, Tumblr, YouTube and LinkedIn, through which Topshop shares carefully crafted content, tailored for each audience. Topshop never shouts about its products, but instead shares related content of interest to its young customers, on everything from Glastonbury to careers in the fashion industry. The aim of social is to become the ‘go-to’ place that your customers seek out as a source of useful and interesting information and entertainment.

Social media is now fully integrated into people’s lives – on their phones, in their pocket and immediately accessible on the go.

John Lewis and M&S use Facebook check-ins to give free coffees in their cafe. This drives people through the store to make additional purchases, while their check-in reaches a wide audience online.

Consider how you can bring the online and offline experience together, and create an omnichannel experience for your customers.

By connecting actively and regularly with your customers through social media you can boost website traffic and conversions. But more importantly, you will reap long-term rewards through the lifetime value of each of your customers as brand ambassadors.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | ADVICE | 21

MATERIAL BREACH VS BREACH OF MATERIAL TERM

STEPHEN SIDKIN is a partner at Fox Williams LLP www.fashionlaw.co.uk www.agentlaw.co.uk

Owed money by a customer? When it comes to a sale of goods by one business to another, there does not appear to be a lot of difference between a contractual term which states: 1) the seller may terminate this agreement immediately if the buyer shall be in material breach of its obligation to pay the seller; and 2) the parties agree that if any invoice related to the purchase of goods is not paid in accordance with the seller’s terms and conditions of sale, such non-payment shall constitute a material breach of the agreement and give the seller the right to terminate the agreement with immediate effect.

Alternatively, does the situation change by reference to the size of the amount unpaid? For example, will it matter if the amount unpaid was £1,000,000 or £1?

Clearly, the greater the unpaid amount, the greater the concern to the seller. But putting this to one side, unfortunately, for some businesses which include in their contracts 1 (and not 2) above, there is a fundamental difference. This is because the Courts have said that you can only terminate for material breach of an obligation to pay if the breach is sufficiently serious. This in turn is looked at by reference to the circumstances of the case.

In contrast, the Courts take the view that if there is a contractual term which provides that non-payment of an invoice is a material breach for which the remedy is termination, then the amount involved does not matter. Failure to pay 1p will be enough to allow the contract to be terminated.

This can be very important where the seller wants to exit a contract (for example, because it can make more money by supplying another party); or the seller and buyer have entered into a distributorship or supply contract, and the seller (supplier) wants to bring the contract to an end.

It follows that it is critical for a business to ensure that it has the termination provisions in its contracts which involve the sale of goods which are important to it. But often this is not the case.

This is because a surprising number of businesses do not rely on standard terms and conditions of sale (or, for that matter, standard terms and conditions of purchase) when entering into contracts for the purchase of goods or services. Relying on the law of contract or the Sale of Goods Act will rarely work to the advantage of the business that wants out of the relationship.

Further, businesses which do have standard terms and conditions of sale often do not properly incorporate their standard terms and conditions into the contracts which they enter into.

A material breach of sense, if ever there was one.

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HOW TO KEEP PACE IN THE ‘ALWAYS ON’ ERA

PATRICK GALLAGHER, CEO of delivery service On the Dot www.citysprint.co.uk

We live in an ‘always on’ era, where we can book our next getaway from the sofa, bank at midnight and constantly connect with colleagues, friends and family.

‘Always on’ has had a significant impact on retailers. Now, more than ever, consumer time is precious. Stand in a queue? No thanks.

24/7 lives mean that customers want purchases quickly and at a time that suits them. It is not surprising that smaller retailers worry that they will struggle to match the e-commerce advances of the big hitters like Amazon. Bigger isn’t always better. Thankfully, matching creativity with nimble structures, the tech-first environment offers SME retailers a unique opportunity to thrive.

Below are three areas that they can excel in as they navigate the changing retail landscape.

A sudden surge in e-commerce, for example, has meant that many large retailers have found their IT systems obsolete as they cannot deal with increasing volumes. Smaller retailers have been able to avoid this by outsourcing their IT infrastructures. Small and mid-size retailers can benefit from cloud facilities that offer new technology without large, upfront investments. SME retailers can embrace changes by not relying on legacy systems and using cloud technology that integrates easily into their existing APIs. Social media, meanwhile, has revolutionised marketing.

Consumers now want personal interaction with brands during their online buying journey, in the same way they would in a store. In 2015 international corporations invested a great deal of money trying to replicate the way that smaller retailers reach their customers. This means that SME retailers can simply extend normal customer interactions to the digital sphere. Independent retailers should use social channels to respond in real time to local events and use analytics to target geographically close followers, as well as those with an interest in relevant sector(s).

Finally, the old model of purchasing on the retailers’ terms is finished. When it comes to buying and receiving goods, the customer truly is king. This might seem intimidating for SME retailers working on a smaller scale, but it shouldn’t be. Outsourcing sensibly, retailers can compete with the likes of Amazon.

At On the Dot, we recognised the need to help SME retailers keep up with the delivery expectations of their customers. In 2015 we launched our service to enable smaller retailers to offer ultimate delivery convenience without the need for costly IT integration.

This offers customers point-to-point delivery of their purchase during a one-hour slot that they can choose, seven days a week. For many, the convenience of getting their delivery when and where they want it is more useful than getting it as soon as possible.

Retailers can book deliveries in store via a tablet using their online account, without any IT changes or investment, enabling SME retailers to compete in crowded marketplaces.

Customers are demanding total convenience in purchase and delivery to match their lifestyles. Nimble and proactive, SME retailers can take on larger competitors by taking an innovative approach to marketing, outsourcing IT and delivery systems. This year is looking bright for creative, collaborative retailers, who will find themselves hot on the heels of even the largest names.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | INTERVIEW | 22

INTERVIEW

JOHAN LINDEBERG In 2007, Johan Lindeberg left the brand he had founded and nurtured under his own name for 11 years, citing creative ‘differences’ with investors. But, as of 1 January 2016, he’s back at the brand in Stockholm as Creative Consultant. Tom Bottomley finds out why he’s returned ‘home’.

— Tom Bottomley: Why did you leave J.Lindeberg in the first place?

Johan Lindeberg: I left in 2007 after 11 years, and I was living in London when I left. I never really looked back. I’m always a person who looks forward, especially with regard to inspiration and creativity. That was part of the reason I left; I felt creatively ‘stuck’ with too many investors. It was a very bold decision to leave a brand with my name.

But I’ve been very inspired these past nine years with the different things I’ve been doing, so I’ve not even really thought about J.Lindeberg. I walk past the store in Soho, New York, and I see that the look is distanced from who I am really.

TB: What does it feel like to go back to a brand you created carrying your name?

JL: Well, I got a call out of the blue from the CEO, Stefan Engström. It was last June, and I was standing in my living room in Brooklyn, New York.

It was a ‘wow’ moment, totally not expected. He told me he could take the brand to one level without me, and another level with me. It’s very hard to go back to an old relationship – which I know from past experiences! But I also know that if it works, it becomes very powerful, though it’s not the easiest thing to pull off. That’s why we talked for a good six months before we entirely decided on my return. It was probably more my initiative to suggest a two-year initial contract in a role as Creative Consultant. It feels less ‘heavy’

CREATIVE CONSULTANT J.LINDEBERG

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | INTERVIEW | 23

somehow. So we’re taking two years to ‘feel it out’ and then take it from there. The job title for me doesn’t matter, becomes I am Johan Lindeberg after all. My main role is to really come in and add some innovation, creativity and energy to the brand. The good thing with J.Lindeberg is I don’t have to start the brand from scratch again. I’m coming back in to a brand that is 20 years old this year, and there’s a very good business structure in place, so I can focus creatively.

TB: In that respect, does it bear any comparison with the creative freedom you were given at Diesel before you even set up J.Lindeberg?

JL: In some respects you could say there are certain comparisons. When I started to work for Diesel in 1990, it was already a 16 year-old brand, and I could focus on being a creative force. It suits me well. I was the creative sidekick to Renzo Rosso. I was in charge of international marketing and I was also the creative director. I’m mostly known for creating the ‘Successful Living’ campaign, in Stockholm with my team. Creatively, I was Renzo’s right arm.

TB: How far removed is the J.Lindeberg brand look-wise from what you left in 2007?

JL: I think J.Lindeberg went into a bit of ‘preppy’ period, but that was also to do with trends. I never liked that preppy look personally. I’m not a preppy person. Maybe St. Tropez preppy, but not American preppy! When I left, the J.Lindeberg look was very progressive and very modern. That was the whole idea, to create an alternative lifestyle brand for men – like an alternative Ralph Lauren, but very progressive instead of classic. I think, over the years, J.Lindeberg has become quite classic. I also had a very kind of rock ‘n’ roll influence in the collections. I used to dress a lot of garage rockers in London in the early 2000s when it was a big trend, with very skinny tailoring and jeans. But we also had the sports side, with ‘Golf’ and ‘Ski’ collections.

TB: Are the sports collections branded differently?

JL: They used to be when I was there before, but

now it comes under one consolidated brand name. That’s also a bit of a trend, with the likes of Dolce & Gabbana shutting down its D&G line. I think it’s important to have one expression, particularly when you become more retail based, as J.Lindeberg has, with over 130 stores worldwide.

The main reason you have different branding within a brand is really if you sell to a lot of department stores and you want to get in to different areas within those stores. You can then be in the sports area, the tailoring area and the more fashion focused area. But when you start to have more of your own retail, then it doesn’t make any sense any longer. It’s better to have clarity, and a clear brand expression and DNA. We do still sell the ‘Golf’ and ‘Ski’ lines separately – to a different distribution network – but they are now all under the same label. One of the projects I am working on now within J.Lindeberg is to create one strong international voice.

TB: Is that a real challenge?

JL: I think having a sport line as well as a fashion line has always been a challenge for J.Lindeberg.

When we started out in the mid-90s, the fashion side was very much catered towards that ‘metrosexual’ man. That whole David Beckham thing, and men generally being more conscious about their looks, wanting to be more modern and take a step in a new direction. At that time, the golfers didn’t like or understand ‘fashion’ and the fashion people didn’t like or understand golf at all, so it was very hard to package it. I’ve also become a photographer over the ensuing years, so I will be shooting all the imagery now and expressing it so we can create one voice.

TB: What else were you doing in the years since leaving J.Lindeberg?

JL: I worked with Justin Timberlake for three years, and helped him start his brand, William Rast. I also consulted

for Jay-Z for a year. Then in 2011 I created the brand BLK DNM in New York. The brand quickly became well known for its denim, leather jackets and marketing campaigns.

TB: Do you consider the UK market important for the J.Lindeberg brand going forward?

JL: The UK is one of our key markets. We have had some successful seasons and we’re currently sold in the likes of Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, John Anthony, Dogfish and Zee & Co. It’s also one of most international markets, because we can target not only a UK customer, but people from all over the world. We see a lot of potential in the UK market, both in terms of growing with our existing customer base and also with new partners. Womenswear was only launched in the UK in 2015, so with that concept in particular we have a lot of potential to grow. We don’t currently have any standalone stores in the UK, but it is definitely a market where we are looking for retail opportunities in the future.

TB: When can we expect to see J.Lindeberg collections carrying your handwriting?

JL: Lead times in a brand like J.Lindeberg are quite long. It’s not like you work in Paris with an atelier who can do a collection in two or three months. Here we work with factories and it’s slower, so I think my full expression for the men’s and women’s collections will be for a/w 17. We have a design team, but I am heading it up and I will decide the look. There will still be some classic looks, but with a bit of a rock ‘n’ roll twist.

Tailoring will be important, both for men and women. It’s a real cornerstone within J.Lindeberg.

I don’t really work with themes, I think they feel a little bit obsolete these days. I like to dress people! We do follow trends, but we’re not taking a retro route – even though we can be inspired by the past. It has to be modern, because we’re a modern brand.

—

“ The UK is one of our key markets.

We have had some successful seasons and we’re currently sold in the likes of Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, John Anthony, Dogfish and Zee & Co.”

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P R O D U C T

FASHION VS FUNCTION Heritage skate brand Volcom has collaborated with Danish outerwear manufacturers Rains for a s/s 16 capsule collection. Both brands take classic design elements from previous collections, with the outcome combining Volcom’s skate heritage with Rains’ weatherproof functionality. The new collection consists of two pieces – a jacket and a hat – that boast simple design and versatile purpose. Rune Glifberg, Danish professional skater and longtime Volcom team rider, has been chosen to promote the new line. The outcome is a dynamic photo and video shoot showing Glifberg taking on his surroundings in Copenhagen, Denmark.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | PRODUCT NEWS | 26

RADAR Spotlighting style LUXURY OF SLEEP Otis Batterbee will launch a new premium collection of nightwear and lounge accessories consisting of velvet smoking slippers, dapper dressing gown, lavender filled silk eye masks and pyjamas.

The men’s collection features in-house digital prints harking back to vintage cravats and ties. Black and grey geometric prints inspired by floor tiles combine with classic herringbones in navy and purple that run across dressing gowns, pyjamas and lounge shorts. Inspiration for the collection’s intricate level of design and heavy use of prints comes from Batterbee’s family heritage in fashion stretching back to the 60s.

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JIM RICKEY ESTABLISHED: 2006 HISTORY: Founders Henrik Standerth and Patrik Lakso Svensk started out working together as sales reps for other sneaker brands. After pooling their combined knowledge into a business, the duo began their own sneaker project in 2006.

SIGNATURE STYLE: Timeless, high-quality footwear and accessories with a focus on sustainability. Collection pieces typically reflect classic styling and bold colours.

Ten years after founders Henrik Standerth and Patrik Lakso Svensk established Jim Rickey, the duo have expanded the collection to incorporate footwear, bags, watches, sunglasses and leather care products. Now the range of products can be found in 20 different markets around the world including Paris, Stockholm, London, Berlin, Tokyo, Shanghai, Oslo and Taipei. The Scandinavian brand, which has distribution in 1,000 retail stores worldwide, has its design studio in Stockholm, Sweden. Production is based in Dongguan, China, whereby the brand incorporates a level of sustainability and ethical awareness into its manufacture. This translates into a policy of donating samples and old stock for charitable use, its recycling facility and its repair service for worn out products. From a distance the end product embodies a level of simplicity you might expect to find in Scandinavian design, though a high level of attention to detail is found in models such as the Cloud Desert boot. In this design, a mixture of quality materials and craftsmanship combine to make a product that’s both reliable and stylish.

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DATE TO REMEMBER Watch brand Kartel has released its latest offering, the Lewis Collection. With all the feel of a modern classic, watches in the collection feature a contemporary dial with applied hour markers in a rose gold case, a leather strap and a stainless steel back.

However, at the same time, the brand’s heritage in classic watchmaking is maintained through its traditional production process.

Collection pieces are manufactured in the north east of Scotland, with inspiration for the Lewis Collection coming from the varied and rugged landscape of the area.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | PRODUCT NEWS | 27

PRODUCT NEWS BRITISH STYLE

ISLAND INSPIRATION For a/w 16 Alpha Industries updates its classic archive jackets with new materials and cuts. Inspiration for the collection comes from Tongan tattoos after the brand visited the kingdom’s islands, where the team behind the label held sales meetings.

Highlights come in the form of the classic MA-1 bomber jacket, which is available this season in more variations including short, long and a coat style. Key colours for the line this season include sage green, blue and black. Throughout the range a number of fabrics come into play including the Oxford TT nylon.

Metal zippers are available in gold, copper and silver and feature across the line. Wholesale prices range from approximately £20 for a cotton T-shirt to £360 for a sheepskin coat.

—

The latest collection from Luke 1977 celebrates the United Kingdom, as seen through its use of traditional gingham and camo prints.

However, a/w 16 also sees the brand explore natureinspired patterns through bonded jacquards and geometrics. Tweed blazers and textured knitwear emphasise an overall heritage look for the brand, while indigo-rich stretch denim brings in a contemporary element.

Technical fabrics such as dobby shirting, super flex denim and a perforated reflexive sports fabric are introduced this season. Wholesale prices range from £13.50 for a cotton T-shirt to £140 for a leather biker jacket.

— >>>

STYLE HIGHLIGHT

LATHBRIDGE BY PATRICK COX Designed in London and handcrafted in Italy, the new Lathbridge collection by iconic footwear designer Patrick Cox revisits his bestselling style – the square-toe loafer. His reinterpretation of this style has resulted in moccasins in burnished suede, high shine calf and wet look patent. The styles are substantial, with either a double thick leather sole or a chunky crepe wedge with a creeper feel. The group also comprises a lace-up ankle boot and chukka style.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | PRODUCT NEWS | 28

RADAR Spotlighting style

BACK IN FASHION

ANIMAL ACTIVE ESTABLISHED: 1987 HISTORY: With a passion for culture and creativity, Animal has grown to become one of the UK’s leading action sports brands.

SIGNATURE STYLE: Combining fashion, performance and its boardsport brand heritage, the new Animal Active range takes inspiration from natural surroundings and aims to share the brand’s love of the outdoors.

Long-established action sports and lifestyle brand Animal has launched its first line of dedicated health and fitness clothing. Traditionally, Animal is known for its range of outdoor-themed lifestyle products falling under categories including apparel, luggage, footwear, accessories, watches and wetsuits. The new Animal Active collection aims to combine fashion, performance and the heritage of a boardsport brand. Drawing inspiration from the outdoors, with an overall aim of encouraging others to embrace natural surroundings, collection pieces represent unbound opportunity across a diverse range of landscapes from land and ocean. The activewear range boasts strong technical aspects and a high level of quality, incorporating additional features in order to provide comfort to its wearer. Fabrics maintain weather-resistant properties and moisture control abilities, while also utilising eye-catching reflective details. The line acts as a natural extension for the Animal brand and includes a range of sportswear and sports underwear. Products in the new Animal Active range, available for both men and women, include zip-up hoodies, trousers and shorts in a classic colour palette of grey and black.

—

In 2013 designer Claes Bondelid (former co-founder of the Bondelid clothing brand, which launched in 1979) opened his first Claes Göran store in Stockholm, Sweden. Described as the ‘sartorial alternative’, Bondelid created a brand which “has no limitations.”

Beginning with a line of trainers, the Swedish label has since become an international success in more than 10 countries, providing a full lifestyle collection across menswear, womenswear and children.

Care and attention to detail is considered at every opportunity, as garments are crafted in quality fabrics, all handpicked by Bondelid himself. The a/w 16 collection focuses on loungewear and casual tailoring, complemented by the introduction of new outerwear styles in waxed Harris Tweed. Leather boots have also been added to an already diverse footwear line.

Wholesale prices start at £22.

— NEWS ELEMENT X GRIFFIN STUDIO British brand Griffin Studio and skate brand Element have produced a capsule collection, Black Sky Project. With an emphasis on fabrics and ergonomics, the collection presents four new jackets alongside reinterpretations of classic backpack and footwear styles. The line incorporates outdoor utilitarian design elements with urban versatility, without sacrificing a minimalistic aesthetic. Based on Element’s ‘Authentech’ technology, garments feature a semi-permeable membrane, a special lamination and an internal insulation system. Jackets come in three colour options and include special features such as a 10k lamination, ergonomic sleeves, waterproof zippers, reflective details and inside woven labels.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 30

BARBOUR FOR LAND ROVER £25.95 0800 009 988

SCOTCH & SODA £36.50 020 3137 3901

ICE WATCH £50 01494 486 220

SKOPES MENSWEAR £14 0113 240 2211

DENTS £12.50 01985 212 291

CRAGHOPPERS £20.90 0161 866 0500

PETER MILLAR £85 01908 513 910

SAND STORM Neutrals, robust fabrications and utilitarian detailing – all characteristics of the modern safari trend coming through for s/s 16. Key pieces include the bush jacket, lightweight cotton blend shirt and relaxed fit cargo shorts, all in a palette of beige, cream, white and khaki.

— Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

THE BRITISH BELT COMPANY £80 01572 824 385

AIGLE £60 01608 813 860

CHESTER BARRIE £45 020 773 4457

Handcrafted Footwear MADE IN ENGLAND

Preview our new instock footwear collections

Birmingham UK 21st -23rd February 2016 Stand H19

sales@nps-solovair.co.uk

+44 (0) 1933664207 www.solovair-shoes.com

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 32

FARAH £22 020 7580 5838

PRETTY GREEN £34 020 7440 0784

NATIVE YOUTH £11.50 0161 835 2064

PRINTS CHARMING A firmly established menswear favourite, the short sleeve printed shirt sees an update this season, with all-over dense, intricate prints. More of a casual wardrobe option, highlights for the new season include graphic illustrations, abstract florals and paint splash effects.

—

QUIKSILVER £10.80 020 7392 4020

LUKE 1977 £24 01869 366 580

BELLFIELD £9.25 0844 477 4856 ANTONY MORATO £49.90 020 7739 8560 WEEKEND OFFENDER £22.22 0133 234 2068

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | PITTI UOMO | 34

FRESH FROM FLORENCE MWB was on hand at the latest edition of Pitti Uomo to bring you the product that caught our eye and the brands to watch for the new season.

—

THE GOODPEOPLE This season The GoodPeople’s midnight city theme gives way to a line filled with modern silhouettes and sophisticated slim-knits. All-over prints coupled with warm colours typically found in luxurious Merino wool fabrics create a multi-purpose collection that’s designed to keep its wearer warm during a long night in the city. The brand has increased its range of signature Oxford shirts and popular Jersey wool pants after both ranges became an instant hit with customers. The classic bomber jacket gets a season update, as seen through use of jacquard panels and colour blocking. An additional jacket – a light parka made out of boiled wool – has been added to the line.

—

ESSENTIEL ANTWERP New shapes and styles are seen across the a/w 16 collection from Essentiel Antwerp, with the brand moving towards a more relaxed look.

Knitted sweaters come in a loose fit, while wide-leg trousers and dropped shoulder coat shapes are key. Sullen colour combinations of burgundy, green, petrol blue and mahogany brown work together to create an intensely rich aesthetic. Modern details and patterns are inspired by military workwear, with graphic prints resembling a camouflage style. Graphical intarsia knits vary from two-tone shades to multi-shaded patterns, while different colour tones and chunky knits are used to make a statement.

—

ALICE MADE THIS The Silversmith collection from British jewellery brand Alice Made This presents a refined solid silver collection of cufflinks, cuff bracelets and a tie slide. Inspired by Brutalist architecture, the new range highlights the industry and history of Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter.

Using a skilled silversmith, collection pieces take on a refined quality and present individual design that’s focused around craftsmanship.

Featuring polished and matte finishes, the new collection juxtaposes the raw industrial history of post-war Birmingham with the distinguished art of silversmithing. Each piece in the collection is stamped with a bespoke Alice Made This hallmark.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | PITTI UOMO | 35

HARRYS OF LONDON This season Harrys of London presents a footwear collection that combines a contemporary aesthetic with functionality and technological design. Three lifestyle categories – New Formal, the Luxe Sneaker and Former Casuals – make up the a/w 16 line. In the New Formal range, anatomical shape is combined with a soft tapered toe to create a new line of handmade lace-up dress shoes and boots available in calfskin.

The Luxe Sneaker range takes on a typically modern aesthetic, featuring suede uppers and a new Technogel innersole for added support.

Meanwhile, the Former Casuals line utilises a tonal rubber Vibram ‘windsurf’ sole in its range of loafers.

—

INIS MEÁIN Inis Meáin continues to take inspiration from Aran workwear for its latest offering. Drawing on archive footage of industrial fishermen working on the island of Inis Meáin, the brand presents a line of hardy clothes suitable for diverse climes and protection against the elements. Jumpers and box-shaped jackets play a key role and feature in a thick knit fabric. Knits and tweed garments are reinforced through padding and patches, and are available in a classic colour palette of grey, black and red. The brand’s signature Storm Jacket is made with unpredictable island weather in mind, and features an extra layer of knit on the shoulders for added warmth and protection.

—

ORIGINAL PENGUIN BLUE LABEL Original Penguin’s capsule collection, Blue Label, draws on sophisticated patterns in this curated offering for a/w 16. Intricate prints inspired by past decades provide a nod to the 70s, as seen through silk blend sweater polos and camel roll-neck sweaters. Woven shirts use Japanese fabrics, which are combined with rich shades of burnt caramel, plum and navy to elevate the line to a further level of luxury. In this premium collection, the brand’s classic Earl Polo comes in a super-soft cotton silk-blend and penny collar: styled with the double pleat pant for a new tone of refined dressing.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | STREET STYLE | 36

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | STREET STYLE | 37

STREET SHOOTING Peacocks gathering in the Fortezza da Basso last month, for the a/w 16 edition of premium menswear show Pitti Uomo.

MWB was on hand to snap some of the style highlights. —

Visit us at Stand J10 Hall 18 at MODA LAUNCHING SS16...

NEC, Birmingham DESIGNED IN BRITAIN, IN BRITAIN, onDEVELOPED 21 – 23 February 2016 NOW MADE IN BRITAIN.

Receive 5% of discount when A new collection British inspired footwear,you made with Chatham visit ourtrue stand passion and tradition from the finest quality materials. www.chatham.co.uk

MADE IN 822 BRITAIN 01392 981 www.chatham.co.uk

barker-shoes.co.uk BarkerShoesLtd

See us at Moda, Hall 18 Stand I11

LONDON COLLECTIONS MEN

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | LONDON COLLECTIONS MEN | 40

JAMES LONG

CMMN SWDN

BARBOUR

CMMN SWDN

UNIVERSAL WORKS

ASTRID ANDERSEN

MAHARISHI

GIEVES & HAWKES

The four-day showcase of British and international talent kicked off the a/w 16 buying season earlier last month, with some distinct trends emerging from the catwalks to consider for next autumn.

— LOU DALTON

BAARTMAN & SIEGEL

CROPPED OUT

EARTH, WIND AND FIRE

Perhaps not the most wearable trend for the everyday man, cropped silhouettes were a stark alternative to looser, oversized designs this season. Lou Dalton partnered with premium high street label Jaeger for a/w 16, which saw a blend of contemporary design and classic tailoring, including an ink-blue cropped quilted jacket. Following suit was James Long, whose offering included a waterproof zip-up design with panels of metallic tech fabric. More classic styles came from British label Universal Works, showcasing a shorter cut bomber jacket, whilst boxy cropped fits dominated the 70s inspired collection at CMMN SWDN. Meanwhile, Astrid Andersen’s aqua cable knit cropped jumper showed slightly more flesh than one would care for in winter.

—

In terms of dominating colour palettes this season, a number of designers opted for earthy tones such as burnt orange, mustard, olive and khaki. Barbour grasped the trend with both hands, whilst the 70s-flavoured styles of CMMN SWDN’s collection provided the perfect base for browns, ochre and rust shades. Maharishi, meanwhile, added flashes of burnt orange in the patchwork detail on its oversized knitted nylon jacket, soft to the touch but still representing the cutting edge of Japanese technical cloths. More formal brands dipped their toes in this colour trend for a/w 16, including Baartman & Siegel, who presented a texture-rich collection inspired by 1976-era Harlem, while Gieves & Hawkes focused primarily on deep reds and camel.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | LONDON COLLECTIONS MEN | 41

KATIE EARY

EDWARD CRUTCHLEY

XANDER ZHOU

JAMES LONG

COACH

OLIVER SPENCER

SIBLING

TOPMAN

CHRISTOPHER KANE

CHRISTOPHER SHANNON

SEAN SUEN

TIGER OF SWEDEN

MAN

BURBERRY

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND

NIGHT OWL

RUNNING TRACK

SOFT TOUCH

Moving over from womenswear this season, the underwear-as-outerwear trend – dubbed the dressing down effect – was spotted at some of the bigger designers this season.

Topman, for example, sent an array of models down the runway in silk robes over chunky knits and bleached denim. At MAN, meanwhile, Rory Parnell-Mooney took inspiration from the trend with delicately draped outer layers, belted loosely to the side. Both Edward Crutchley and Sibling offered printed, kimono-style versions, with Sibling focusing more on the boxing ring wraparound robe.

Finally, British designer Katie Eary went all out, presenting a number of fully matching looks in printed silk, including tops, bottoms and a dressing gown-come-lightweight throw-over.

—

At one time, a tracksuit was rarely seen outside the gym, but with the likes of Tinie Tempah and model Oliver Cheshire wearing more casual attire this LCM, it seems the grey marl two-piece is now de rigueur for both the front row and the catwalk. The new season saw an unexpected twist from the likes of Burberry, as designer Christopher Bailey revealed a selection of retro zip-up tops, alongside his signature trenches. Christopher Shannon served up 80s inspired shellsuits, while Xander Zhou presented a corduroy option with contrasting zip detailing. Print was key at James Long, with black tracksuits given added interest from multicoloured glitter stripes, whilst Christopher Kane utilised fabric featuring crashed cars and crushed steel.

—

While many fledging designers put the focus on surprising cuts, prints and finishes, classic brands such as Coach and Oliver Spencer nailed effortless luxury with premium textures and fabrics. As its menswear category enters its third season, Coach continued to push boundaries while still retaining its signature design ethos with pieces such as the fur gilet.

Pringle of Scotland, meanwhile, presented an Edwardian day coat, with a wool collar and leather panelling, and Sean Suen played with textures for a/w 16, with leather jackets featuring fur sleeves and oversized collars.

Shearling was a returning trend this season, with both Oliver Spencer and Tiger of Sweden adding a retro addition to their collections with shearling collar and lining finishes.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | INTERVIEW | 42

LIFE WITH CHARACTER J Shoes’ head of design and creative director Katie Ridges shares her inspiration, and reveals exciting plans for the brand’s milestone 20th birthday.

— What is your professional background?

I started my journey at the prestigious Cordwainers college in London. In my second year I visited Lineapelle in Italy, where I met a footwear designer from Shanghai. We got on instantly and after the show she said that I should come and work with her. I initially dismissed this offer as a wild notion, but six months later I found myself on a flight to Shanghai and spent the next year designing, sourcing and living the high life in China. This was the start of my journey and opened many doors thereafter, from working on brands such as Ben Sherman, Firetrap, Boxfresh and Brakeburn to becoming head of design and creative director at J Shoes.

What inspires you as a footwear designer?

Everything! It’s difficult to pinpoint. I’m not consciously being inspired; I just soak up what’s around me. Living in London is a constant source of inspiration: the people, the shops – you can’t get away from the city’s expression of style. This for sure works its way into my design.

Having said this, I have a strong influence from found treasures; I spend time with my father and brother (both of whom are antiques dealers), trawling Brocantes in France for my next find. It may be a vintage trunk, lamp, piece of beautiful designer furniture or indeed a pair of someone’s much loved shoes. I love objects that have faced the test of time and are still relevant today. This is what I strive for in my design.

What is your creative process like?

Constant! I am always looking at footwear, what’s happening in fashion and what’s going on around me. It is what I love to do, so it never stops.

Research is my favourite part of my process, so I spend a lot of time on this. I find that to create a successful range you need to identify all areas of a collection at the initial stage, so the design will be much more focused.

What are your criteria for a well-constructed and well-designed shoe?

Practicality and style combined together. A shoe that you return to season after season. The little black dress of shoes.

What are your thoughts on the footwear industry today and where do you see it in the future?

Without a doubt it’s tough out there. For a long time the smaller brands have been pushed aside by the high street and mass product. I think now, though, this is at a turning point: people want something they can’t get so easily, something

that they can trust, something that has a little soul. Independent brands are making a comeback, that’s why J Shoes is such a great company to work with. We are a small team and independently owned, we have a rich history and the product is timeless.

What’s next for J Shoes?

It’s our 20th birthday this year, so we have a lot of celebrating to do. We have a very exciting collaboration with the English company Sanders, offering a small capsule collection of shoes made in their factory in Rushden, Northamptonshire.

This is one of the last running factories in the country. The collection is the pinnacle of English craftsmanship and features materials from British Millerain and Hainsworth. There is a lot more to look forward to with J Shoes for a/w 16 – you are going to have to watch this space.

To what do you attribute the success of the brand?

J Shoes has always been a brand that is true to its core values: timeless British design with a modern crafted edge. Primarily focusing on product, our reputation has grown organically. Through word of mouth and fan loyalty, we developed a cult following. Our shoes stand the test of time in quality and design. This is why people have stuck with us for the last 20 years.

How would you describe J Shoes’ signature, both across women’s and men’s footwear?

Unfazed by fads and disposable fast fashion, J Shoes speaks to individuals who seek footwear that’s enduring, understated and crafted with passion.

Creatively, which collection is more challenging to design, men’s or women’s?

That’s a difficult question. I think that this season, we had some work to do on really defining our aesthetic in the women’s line. The men’s collection has always been very solid and set in its look; seasonally it’s just about refreshing that and refining. For the women’s collection, however, we had more avenues to explore. Although this may have been a challenge, it’s been a very enjoyable one. We have developed beautiful leathers, highly wearable styles and classic silhouettes that are sure to be used in seasons to come.

What are your plans going forward for the brand, in terms of product development, distribution and growth?

Our distribution is growing for this season,

already having connected with partners in France and additional agents in the USA. This is set to expand further still next season. And the plans for the J Shoes range are vast. One area in particular is that we would like to expand the casual end of our line, still retaining that classic J Shoes twist and creating a ‘life with character’, just like our hashtag slogan for this season.

www.jshoes.com #lifewithcharacter For all enquiries please contact +44 (0) 1858 468123

OUT AND ABOUT WITH TILLEY All our Hats are guaranteed for life. They provide UPF50+ sun protection, tie on in the wind, float, and are water resistant, keeping you covered wherever your adventures take you

www.tilley.com T: 01326 574402

AUTUMN / WINTER COLLECTION 2016

Visit us at Moda, Stand P2

WILLIAM HEATON

WDH MENSWEAR AGENCIES

+44 7831 388 888 wheaton@saville-heaton.co.uk

Visit us: Moda Menswear - 21.02. – 23.02.2016 | Stand N38

Superfine Egyptian Cotton HJ8552

T: 01455 638811 E: enquiries@hjhall.com

SEE INSIDE FOR:

MANNEQUINS PROPS FA B R I C S HANGERS CHRISTMAS POINT OF SALE PRINT GRAPHICS LIGHTING LIFESTYLE DESIGN C R E AT I V E N E S S IDEAS AC RY LI C S AND MUCH MORE

VISIT TH E H OM E OF VISUAL M E R C H A N D I S I N G & D I S P L AY Showcasing the best talent from all corners of the industry, the VM&D Show returns to the Business Design Centre in London from the 20th to 21st April 2016

For free entry register today at www.vmanddisplay.com or call 01945 420 068 or email enquiries@rvmww.com

THE

PARTY IS BACK!

d F n e 2 b 2 r u y a a r d y n o 2016 M : e t Da

e u eV n

Resorts World at NEC Birmingham

Time: 7pm for drinks reception | Price:£20 +V AT Food: Pizza, pasta, sides & salads

The event you’ve all been waiting for is here, the Moda party is back and better than ever. Resorts World is only a short walk from the Moda show its the perfect way to unwind after a busy day’s trading where you can check out the all new bars and stores Resorts World has to offer.

To book your tickets contact Grace Marsh on +44 (0)1484 848328 or grace.marsh@moda-uk.co.uk

See us at Moda Hall 19, Stand P41 21-23 February 2016

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | MODA GENT | 48

GIBSON

CARL GROSS

ETERNA

BENVENUTO BLACK LABEL

MODA GENT MWB previews the key names in both contemporary and mainstream menswear set to showcase their a/w 16 collections at Moda Gent this season.

— BENVENUTO Benvenuto will present both its Black and Purple line this season, offering a contemporary mix of lifestyle clothing comprising tailored jackets, coats, mix and match suits, ties, knitwear and shirts. Specialising in Italian fabrics, the brand puts the focus on quality, catering for the both the mainstream and the more trend-led menswear market. Stand M51 BROOK TAVERNER Brook Taverner’s a/w 16 collection offers more of a lifestyle feel than before, with the development of new ranges of casual shirts, trousers and knitwear providing a strong, colour-related story to the collection. Other innovations include the new Brook Taverner Weekend range, a casual offering comprising three-in-one waterproof jackets, two-in-one trousers, quarter zip tops and easy-care activity shirts. Stand N31 CARL GROSS This season’s silhouettes by businesswear brand Carl Gross remain relatively unchanged, with the fashionable Sharp Fit and the Modern Fit still playing a main role. The key look of the season is masculine and body-hugging without disregarding comfort – this applies both to suits and single jackets. For suits, functional fittings and features are the main focus, while for single jackets it’s all about lively and dynamic fabrics. Stand K30 ETERNA Structured fabrics, new types of check, and interpretations of well-known patterns all appear in the new a/w 16 collection from men’s shirt label Eterna. Styles include Slim Fit Stretch, Denim Classic and formal designs, while new checks include variations of

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | MODA GENT | 49

WILVORST

FARAH CLASSIC

HAWKINS AND SHEPHERD

SEIDENSTICKER

TRESANTI

BROOK TAVERNER

Vichy check and Glen check. Fabrics, meanwhile, include cashmere flannel, poplin peached and fine twill. Stand M59 FARAH CLASSIC Taking inspiration from the book The Town and the City by Jack Kerouac, Farah Classic collection reinterprets 50s casualwear into a wintry context. New outerwear options include a classic pea coat and a car coat, while knitwear includes a new longsleeve ribbed collar polo. Within the jersey options, there is also a new long-sleeve, button-down tailored collared shape. Stand L11 GIBSON This season’s collection from Gibson offers a muted take on heritage tailoring for a modern and contemporary feel. Highlights include the use of jaspé yarns and traditional patterns – including herringbones and Glen checks – in matching tones. The colour palette, meanwhile, is warm, autumnal and rustic. Stand M10 HAWKINS AND SHEPHERD Returning to Moda Gent this season is Hawkins and Shepherd, presenting a new-look collection that is classic in design, yet contemporary in styling. Following an expansion into suit and coat ranges is the brand’s introduction of new shirt styles.

A/w 16 sees new button-down and pattern shirts in keeping with market trends, yet adhering to the label’s standards in terms of fine fabrics and classic, handmade tailoring. Stand M2 SEIDENSTICKER The Art of the Shirt is the main theme of Seidensticker’s collection this season. Inspired by various styles of art and design history, the shirt is staged in an artistic context and interpreted in a contemporary and market-relevant way. Each delivery date is dedicated to a certain style in terms of shape, colour and fabrics, including Gentle & Royal, Simple & Constructed, and Vibrant & Honest. Stand J11 TRESANTI The a/w 16 offer from men’s concept lifestyle brand Tresanti includes 100 per cent cotton shirts in a choice of basic and slim fits.

There are also ties, mainly in silk; scarves, in soft and lightweight viscose or cashmere; leather belts; gloves, in wool or leather; socks, in combinations of wool and cotton or wool and silk; leather goods in the form of bags and wallets; cufflinks, pants and hats. Stand M11 WILVORST Formal menswear label Wilvorst celebrates 100 years this month, and will mark its anniversary with a special appearance at Moda Gent. Founded in Germany in 1916, the brand is characterised by high quality fabrics, 100 per cent German manufacture and an attention to detail which has ensured a century-long loyal following. By way of celebration of this landmark, Wilvorst will offer a 10 per cent discount on its New Wedding collection during the three days of Moda Gent. The range specifically targets the young men of generations Y and Z, who want the effortless elegance of quality tailoring, with contemporary styling that is fitting for their own identity. Stand N48

>>>

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | MODA GENT | 50

DIGEL

OLYMP

SKOPES MENSWEAR

CLAUDIO LUGLI

MAGEE

MEYER

DIGEL For Digel, the focus is on suits with a modern silhouette this season, providing a tailored, close-fitting cut, even in the 50-plus sizes.

Various options are available in terms of styles, pockets and vents. Colours are mainly subtle, with a predominant range of blues and greys.

New shades are largely to be found in the mid-range colours, including a new petrol shade. High quality outer fabrics are key, with virgin wool the most frequently used fabric. Stand M29 CLAUDIO LUGLI Shirt brand Claudio Lugli has a host of eye-catching prints to present this season, with designs including multicoloured butterflies, vintage cars, pinup girls, pheasants, classic planes and pug dogs. The shirts are made from 100 per cent satin cotton and feature Italian-inspired tailoring. A restricted number of each product line is produced, adding a limited edition quality to the collection. Stand K40 OLYMP A/w 16 sees new combinations of cuts and colours, function and comfort, and street styles demonstrating new catwalk looks translated into everyday fashion. There is also a continued focus on slim silhouettes, while Olymp’s No. 6 Six Super Slim shirt offers a new design cut to cater for the toned, more athletic figure. The colour palette ranges from colourful dark tones through to warm grey hues.

Stand L30 MAGEE Magee is marking its 150th anniversary with a limited edition a/w 16 anniversary menswear collection. Encompassing expertise in fabric woven in Donegal, as well as garment creation using skills amassed over the brand’s 150 years, inspiration comes from its rich fabric archives, including luxurious cashmere and lambswool blends. Timeless garments include both modern and retro styling, as well as on-trend tailored fit three-piece suits. Stand K38 MEYER Trouser label Meyer is expanding its collection to include Exclusive, a specially chosen, high quality range in eight selected materials with design features including shirt stoppers. For a/w 16, the brand is focused on slim silhouettes with modern foot widths. Super stretch also features, allowing slim fits without sacrificing on comfort. Material mix, using different structures, is also key, as are prints and 3D optics. Stand L48 SKOPES MENSWEAR Returning to Moda this season with its quintessentially British look is Skopes. Highlights include tailored tweed and brushed cotton jackets with optional waistcoats in a choice of heritage-inspired cloths. The heritage theme features heavily in an expanded range of outerwear and seasonal mix-and match suits. Eveningwear now offers six variations on the classic tuxedo, too. Stand N30

>>>

David Alembick is proud to launch Benetti Menswear at

NEC Birmingham 21st - 23rd February 2016 Hall 19, Stand N20

D’Alembi distributors of Benetti to the UK and Channel Island DAVID ALEMBICK TEL: +44 (0) 7768 345507 Office: +44 (0) 1767 682914 Email: dalembi@hotmail.com Website: www.dalembi.co.uk

D’Alembi - distributors of Ben Green Shirts to the UK, Ireland and the Channel Islands.

Key Accounts & Ireland David Alembick Tel: +44 (0) 7768 345507 North of England & Channel Islands Malcolm Trigg Tel: +44 (0) 7778 310022 South of England Jeremy Dixon Tel: + 44 (0) 7973 407169 Email: dalembi@hotmail.com Website: www.fsh-gmbh.com

See us at Moda, NEC Birmingham 21st - 23rd February 2016 Hall 19, Stand N20

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | MODA GENT | 53

GEOGRAPHICAL NORWAY

WESC

MAC

CASAMODA

BRÜHL

CAMEL ACTIVE

BRÜHL Key to trouser brand Brühl’s designs are a highly elasticated waistband and innovative pocket linings and trims. Highlights include a strong denim segment and thermo-trousers, with a brushed cotton inner for warmth. The range of colours available are dominated by autumnal shades as well as grey, silver and green, with blue remaining a bestselling shade. A/w 16 models have also been slightly modified, with ankle widths now generally 16”. Stand N50 CASAMODA At the heart of Casamoda this season is the sports shirt which, beside its bestselling multicolour checks, includes minimal prints, base colour checks, Oxford plain colours and fine matchstick stripes. Also a focus is the Club collection, which capitalises on the diversity of different washing technologies, and Urban Trekking, a collection of sportive styles that includes three-dimensional embroidery and prints, elbow badges and horn-rimmed buttons. Stand M39 CAMEL ACTIVE Entitled Crossing Borders, the new a/w collection by Camel Active sees traditional styles given a twist by the brand through workwear elements, washings and coatings and functional features. Contrasting materials and textures such as wool-nylon mixtures are combined with one another, while varying silhouettes, from boxy to long, span the entire collection. Colours are based on dark and earthy shades. Stand L50 GEOGRAPHICAL NORWAY With its collections separated into three sectors – men’s, women’s and kids’ – Geographical Norway produces more than 800 styles per year. The emphasis is on every garment being as comfortable as possible, allowing complete freedom of movement for the wearer, and with a focus on best cuts, material and the latest technologies. Stand M21 MAC For a/w 16, Mac is picking up and continuing the theme where the previous season left off, focusing on “characters of modern society”.

Keywords for this new collection are sustainability and refined craftsmanship, with three themes making up the offering: Functional Businessman, for elegant sportswear; Cultural Traveller, for casual and sustainable looks; and Classic Metropolitan, which places focus on urban, clean-cut style. Stand M19 WESC The main a/w 16 collection from premium streetwear label WeSC takes inspiration from Kurt Cobain and the spirit of the 90s Seattle punk/alternative rock scene. This has been translated into basic shapes and workwear classics, and combinations of printed pieces and mixtures of fabrics and textures. Four key looks are available: the all-over indigo, the Seattle punk, the graphic mix, and the urban minimal.

Stand J39

>>>

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ALAN PAINE

DENTS

STETSON

REGATTA

MODA OUTDOOR LIFESTYLE From the moors to the shores, Moda launches a brand new segment this season, bringing together some of the biggest names in the outdoor lifestyle category.

— ALAN PAINE Global heritage brand Alan Paine will present its a/w 16 luxury knitwear collection alongside its countrywear and Richmond lifestyle lines. All ranges have been expanded with the introduction of fresh styles and colours. A variety of weights, textures and yarns, ranging from lambswool and cashmere to a new tweed wool, are used in the brand’s contemporary English Explorer collection. Collection highlights include the Compton men’s tweed collection, with the addition of a forest green tweed and a Compton field coat. Stand P48 CHRYSALIS CLOTHES Chrysalis Clothes is a luxury men’s and women’s outerwear brand and manufacturer, whose garments are handmade in the brand’s factory in Corby, Northamptonshire. Specialising in tweed, the brand only uses the finest yarns and British fabrics, offering country and town wear, as well as heritage outerwear styles such as rainwear, top coats, sports jackets and casual jackets. Stand P38 DENTS The a/w 16 offering from Dents includes an extensive glove range, made from luxury leathers and materials. The range includes Dents’ trademark Peccary leather gloves, with fresh new lining styles in Milanese silk, chamois, Scottish cashmere and rabbit fur. Bold colours have been added to bestselling favourites including scarves, hats and small leather goods. Stand Q80

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GEOX

PEREGRINE

ROSS BARR

CHRYSALIS CLOTHES

GEOX Italian brand Geox will present its contemporary NordPlus range for a/w 16. Inspired by fast-paced capital cities, the high-technology range with functional fabrics uses heat-regulation properties made to deal with diverse temperatures ranging from polar climes to mild.

The collection of versatile jackets utilises the Aerantis breathability system, developed with technical Polartec fabric. Jacket design presents a balance between sportswear and contemporary urban, featuring padded hoods, imitation fur edging, mesh pockets and jacket cuffs and edging in a windproof wool. Stand P40 REGATTA At this season’s edition of Moda, Regatta’s a/w 16 Heritage collection presents a range that offers high performance technical fabrics while maintaining style. High shine, rich wool effects and luxury faux furs keep designs trend-led, while Regatta’s own Isotex 8000 waterproof and breathable technology is used for the first time together with a wool effect fabric. Collection pieces such as the Ferran jacket utilise the brand’s Thermo-Guard insulation technology, adjustable pockets and a zipped mock inner with rib collar – all while promoting a lifestyle jacket fit. Stand P51 ROSS BARR For the new season Ross Barr will continue the brand’s ambitions to resurrect and honour British manufacturing by introducing five new lines, along with the re-release of the classic Spencer with new colours. The new collection will still show the beautiful quality of what British wool and British manufacturing can bring but also reinvents old styles by taking further inspiration from the richness of British history. The new pieces will be inspired by the Tudors, 1930s Britain, the Victorian fishing industry and early Celtic/Norse roots. Stand P52 PEREGRINE The a/w 16 collection from Peregrine will reveal a strong heritage focus from the British label. With pieces typically inspired by nature, a colour palette of beige, brown and grey is found in key items such as the Cactus quilted shirt and the brand’s signature Coombe crew neck jumper. Traditional Peregrine woollen jumpers have been revamped for the new season, with contrasting colours and different fabrics working together on one garment. A versatile range of fabrics spans the collection, from waxed cotton to hand-woven tweed. Stand P10 STETSON Stetson presents the Breakaway collection for a/w 16. The new range showcases a line of hats which echoes the theme of craftsmanship the brand is well known for. In the new collection, the brand introduces a contemporary direction, as seen through the modern styles on show; however, pieces remain in keeping with the label’s heritage theme. Stetson will sit alongside Hardy & Parsons, Jacaru Australia and Landi. Stand O43

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GOODWIN SMITH

SEBAGO

BASE LONDON

ORCA BAY

GOLA

GUCINARI

IKON

MODA FOOTWEAR Moda Footwear is the shoe sector’s national trade event, bringing together a comprehensive selection of men’s labels within the wider context of the footwear industry. Offering buyers the chance to buy coherent collections across the sectors, the show is conveniently situated adjacent to Moda Gent.

— BARKER Barker returns to Moda Footwear with its signature collection of effortlessly elegant men’s shoes, all of which are manufactured at the brand’s Northamptonshire headquarters. The British label offers a comprehensive range of smart styles, while maintaining its hallmark colour quirks and twists of British eccentricity for vibrant merchandising. Stand I11.

BASE LONDON This season sees Base London celebrate its 21st anniversary with its aptly named 21 collection. Designed around the ethos of how time flies when you are having fun, the collection focuses on flexible styles to take the wearer from the boardroom to the dancefloor without stopping to change. The brand describes the range as its most ambitious to date, and a tribute to the rich heritage of its first two decades. Stand J38.

CHATHAM Building upon the success of its first Made in Britain collection which launched last season, Chatham returns with an autumn offer designed to combine function and style. The brand has expanded beyond its marine roots to offer a more comprehensive, all-terrain lifestyle offer, and this season sees the men’s collection diversify, offering more boot silhouettes alongside the brand’s signature shoes.

Stand J10.

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SOREL

HUSH PUPPIES

BARKER

CHATHAM

GOLA Bringing sporting heritage into the 21st century, Gola Sport makes a welcome return to Moda with a new collection of footwear for active lifestyles. Look out for the label’s striking new colourways designed to make a statement on and off the treadmill. Stand I20.

GOODWIN SMITH Goodwin Smith comes into its own this season with its Moda Footwear debut, having shown within Moda Gent for two years. The label – which was established in Lancashire in 1928 – will showcase its footwear collection on a dedicated stand, revealing a wealth of new sole unit constructions and exciting colour combinations without any repeats from previous seasons. Stand H34.

GUCINARI The latest collection from Gucinari is characterised by statement colour pops and contrast colourways as the brand takes a directional step into the new season. The brand maintains its commitment to the use of fine leather for its wearable Derby and Oxford silhouettes.

HUSH PUPPIES Last season saw Hush Puppies make a welcome return to Moda Footwear, redefining its six decades of heritage for the contemporary sector. The brand will return with a bolstered presence for autumn, revealing a collection of wearable styles for effortless day to evening wear. Stand H29.

IKON Texture is the focus for Ikon this season as the brand unveils a new range of uppers designed for contemporary lifestyles. The label has been established for over 15 years, and is created around the philosophy of drawing inspiration from the classic designs of yesterday while adding its own modern twist. Stand I28.

ORCA BAY Outdoor lifestyle is the focus for footwear brand Orca Bay, as the label returns to Moda with a range of authentic deck shoes, country boots and moccasins crafted from premium leather. Each style is hand-stitched with traditional standards of craftsmanship in styles designed to transcend the seasons. Stand H21.

SEBAGO Sebago continues with its 70th anniversary celebrations with the unveiling of its a/w 16 collection. The brand resurrects old favourites from its archive, including the Penny loafer, and brings them bang up to date with its signature technical innovations and new on-trend colourways for the autumn season. Stand J20.

SOREL Sorel’s autumn collection is its most comprehensive to date, having nearly doubled in comparison to previous seasons. The expansion comes as the Canadian brand maintains its focus on its signature winter boots, while expanding its offer of wider lifestyle shoes and boots for the ultimate combination of fashion-forward and functional. Stand H4.

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WHAT’S ON AT MODA Beyond the business of buying, Moda offers a comprehensive programme of catwalk shows, seminars and social events designed to help visitors network and progress. Don’t miss out on everything the show has to offer this a/w 16.

—

RUNWAY ASPIRATIONS See autumn style brought to life this season as key trends are presented in a real-time fashion showcase. Get inspired for the new season, spot the trends and leave armed with a wealth of merchandising ideas from the dedicated Gent catwalk in Hall 17.

EXPERT ADVICE Delivering a range of relevant and engaging advice, Moda’s line-up of seminar speakers has been carefully selected to enhance the visitor experience. Gain an exclusive insight into the season’s trends and essential business matters from leaders in their field and those on the inside of the industry.

AT THE END OF THE DAY Moda Footwear and Moda Gent will host an informal gathering on Monday evening, bringing together those in complementary sectors at the end of a busy day’s trading. Taking place at Resorts World’s Pizza Express from 7pm,

the event will give guests the chance to enjoy pizza, pasta, sides, beers and wines ahead of discovering everything the new complex has to offer. Book your ticket with Grace Marsh on 01484 848328 or grace.marsh@moda-uk.co.uk.

TAKE TIME OUT The ever-popular Happy Hour – sponsored by Skopes Menswear – will return to the Gent Plaza between 5pm and 6pm on Sunday and Monday evening.

Unwind with a drink as jazz trio the Milestones add to the ambience with a wide repertoire of the best known jazz tunes from the 20th century.

RAISE A GLASS Gather with friends and network with like-minded professionals at Moda’s ever-popular drinks reception at the end of day one. Complimentary drinks will be served in the atrium after the end of a busy day’s trading, immediately after the close of the show.

CATWALK THEATRE HALL 17 Sunday 21 February 10.00 – 10.30 Gent catwalk 11.15 – 11.45 Footwear & Accessories catwalk 12.30 – 13.00 Gent catwalk 13.30 – 14.00 Footwear & Accessories catwalk 14.45 – 15.15 Gent catwalk 16.00 – 16.30 Footwear & Accessories catwalk 18.00 – 18.30 DMU presentation and Gent catwalk Monday 22 February 10.00 – 10.30 Gent catwalk 11.30 – 12.00 Footwear & Accessories catwalk 12.45 – 13.15 Gent catwalk 14.00 – 14.30 Footwear & Accessories catwalk 16.30 – 17.00 Gent catwalk 17.15 – 17.45 Footwear & Accessories catwalk Tuesday 23 February 10.30 – 11.00 Gent catwalk 12.45 – 13.15 Footwear & Accessories catwalk 14.30 – 15.00 Gent catwalk CATWALK THEATRE HALL 20 10.00 – 10.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 11.15 – 11.45 Moda Woman catwalk 12.30 – 13.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 13.30 – 14.00 Moda White catwalk 14.45 – 15.15 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 16.00 – 16.30 Moda Woman catwalk 18.00 – 18.30 Moda Woman catwalk and drinks SEMINAR PROGRAMME CATWALK THEATRE HALL 17 Sunday 21 February 10.30 – 11.00 Luan Wise: Top tips to build your online presence 11.45 – 12.15 Jim Jordan, The Coaching Solutions Toolbox: Rethink your marketing 13.00 – 13.30 Stephen Gunn & Kevin Mason, Amazon: Improve your fashion photography 14.00 – 14.30 Nathan Rous: Generate media interest for your new launch 15.15 – 15.45 Warren Knight: Build a social media plan for success Monday 22 February 10.30 – 11.00 Ian Rhodes: Stand out from the retail crowd 12.00 – 12.30 Jon Tromans, JTID: Blogging for the fashion business 13.15 – 13.45 Keri Sheehan, Tribe Creative London: Why visual merchandising matters in retail 14.30 – 15.00 Alison Lewy, Fashion Angel: Let’s get down to business – plan it, fund it 15.45 – 16.15 Panel discussion: Starting out, moving up – expert advice for new retailers Tuesday 23 February 11.30 – 12.00 Stefan Maurel, Style Pilot: Menswear trends 12.00 – 12.30 Rob Fay, Shackleton Property: Setting up Shop – getting your store open and trading 13.15 – 13.45 Stefan Maurel, Style Pilot: Menswear Trends HALL 20 Sunday 21 February 10.30 – 11.00 Ash Allibhai, Trend Council: Womenswear trends 11.45 – 12.15 Stephen Gunn & Kevin Mason, Amazon: Improve Your fashion photography 13.00 – 13.30 Panel discussion: Retailers’ changing approach to social media 14.00 – 14.30 Jim Jordan, The Coaching Solution Toolbox: Rethink your marketing 15.15 – 15.45 Elizabeth Hitchens, Kidsontalks: Start a cost-effective e-commerce business Monday 22 February 10.30 – 11.00 Warren Knight: Do your social media in 30 minutes a day 12.00 – 12.30 Ash Allibhai, Trend Council: Womenswear trends 13.15 – 13.45 Jon Tromans, JTID: Blogging for the fashion business 14.30 – 15.00 Ian Rhodes: Stand out from the retail crowd 15.45 – 16.15 Keri Sheehan, Tribe Creative London: Why visual merchandising matters in retail Tuesday 23 February 12.00 – 12.30 Jon Tromans, JTID: Social media: making it work for you 13.15 – 13.45 Rob Fay, Shackleton Property: Setting up shop – getting your store open and trading

SS 16

www.ikonfootwear.co.uk for a colour brochure call 02476 324670 or email info@ikonfootwear.co.uk

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TRICKS OF THE TRADE David Jeffery was brought up in a shoe-making family in Northampton, and his brother, Mark, is the Jeffery in Jeffery West. You don’t get much more of a footwear specialist, hence why he’s got the attention from Tricker’s to head up its global sales, as Tom Bottomley discovers.

—

It’s easy to see why the new role of head of global sales at Tricker’s is one that locally born shoe connoisseur and salesman David Jeffery could not pass up the opportunity of taking on when offered.

“When it comes to the Northampton footwear industry, Tricker’s has legendary status, and it’s all still made in the same factory that’s been going since 1905,” says Jeffery. “As a Northamptonshire lad, and still living in Northamptonshire, it’s an honour to now be working for such a brand, that is still family owned – now in the fifth generation of the Balthrop family. It’s as purist a Goodyear Welted product as you can get.”

Established in Northampton in 1829, Tricker’s has also just taken on the first ever non-family member managing director, Martin Mason, who has previously worked with premium luxury brands such as John Smedley, Mulberry, Tanner Krolle and Lulu Guinness. “Martin has been brought in to really tell the world about Tricker’s and its wealth of history,” offers Jeffery. “When I started speaking to Martin, and hearing what his vision is for the brand, and also what I could bring to the table, then the appeal was huge. It’s very challenging and I’m very humbled to be given the opportunity to grow the Tricker’s brand globally.”

David Jeffery’s history in the footwear game certainly gives him the credibility to take up the role of head of global sales for the one of the last

surviving, and true greats, of Northampton Goodyear Welted footwear. Jeffery’s father had a Northampton shoe factory, which closed in the mid-80s, called T&C Partridge Limited. He had a brand called Thomas Partridge that used to mainly manufacture for the likes of the British Shoe Corporation – Dolcis and so forth – so was more on the fast fashion tip.

“Unfortunately a lot of the factories in Northampton went out of business in the 80s, when the import quotas really dropped because of cheaper overseas competition,” says Jeffery. “I went through school always thinking I was going to work for my dad, but just as I was about to leave school the factory shut down! But my older brother, Mark Jeffery, set up Jeffery West with Guy West. They got me in on an apprenticeship scheme, working with them and learning the shoe industry. That was the start of it.”

Following on from that, Jeffery got another job in another Northampton shoe factory called White & Company (again no longer with us), which was then making shoes for Dr. Martens under licence. That gave him a great knowledge of the workings of a factory and all the machines.

He then returned to Jeffery West as area sales manager for three years in 1997 before joining Overland Shoes as Southern area sales manager, launching Paul Smith footwear in 2000 (for which Overland had the global licence for two years), and later becoming the senior account manager

at Paul Smith, when the licence was taken back in-house in 2002. He stayed in that role for four years, enjoying much success. But then, in 2006, he rejoined Overland for the launch of G-Star footwear – once more as a global licence deal, which again proved a phenomenal success for many years with Jeffery as country manager for the UK, APAC and Middle East. They took that business up to one million pairs of shoes a year at wholesale: pretty impressive figures. His final stint at Overland was as UK sales manager of G.H. Bass – which took him up to his move to Tricker’s in December 2015. And now the new challenge beckons.

Tricker’s best three markets currently are Japan, Italy and the UK – in that order. Hence why Pitti is always an important show for the brand.

“Pitti is always a very good show for Tricker’s because we get a lot of Japanese and Italian customers coming to see us there,” says Jeffery.

“But we’re very untapped on the East Coast of America, and we should be able to gain good traction there quite quickly. South Korea is another market we will now be targeting. If we’re big in Japan, there’s no reason why we can’t have a greater representation in South Korea too, and Hong Kong and China likewise. There’s also other markets in Europe where we’re not doing the business that we should be, such as Spain and some Eastern European countries.”

However, because everything is produced in

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the Northampton factory, Jeffery is also keen to note that they are limited in terms of how much they can actually grow the business. He insists that they don’t want to be having to make uppers externally, or the shoes anywhere else. “So we have to be very selective as to how we grow the business,” he says. “It’s more about spreading the word globally about the Tricker’s brand, and also not doing too many collaborations going forward.

Our brand message is Tricker’s, not Tricker’s for whoever. That’s not to say we’re going to stop doing collaborations, because some of the ones we do work very well, such as with Margaret Howell, who we’ve been working with for nearly 20 years. We’re not going to stop that, we’re probably just going to be a little bit more selective about who we do collaborations with, that’s all.”

Tricker’s is most famous for its country boots (‘Stow’) and shoes (‘Bourton’), which it’s been making since the 1800s. From the original shoes and boots made then, to where they are now, not a great deal has changed. According to Jeffery, Tricker’s has a loyal customer base, and a customer that is very knowledgeable about the brand. “About 75 to 80 per cent of our business is still done on the Bourton shoes and Stow boots,” offers Jeffery.

Autumn/winter 16 is, according to Jeffery, the first time a ‘seasonal collection’ has ever been assembled by Tricker’s and put in front of the buyers. “Historically, Tricker’s has gone out with a

“ When it comes to the Northampton footwear industry, Tricker’s has legendary status, and it’s all still made in the same factory that’s been going since 1905.”

bag of sample shoes, including some that they’ve done for other brands over the years, then they’ve let customers come in and say, ‘We want to do that shoe, in that colour, material and outsole,’ and so on. But this time we have a proper collection to buy in to.”

That collection was launched at Pitt in January just gone. Alongside around 15 colours of the Stow boots, and 14 of the Bourton shoes, there are other additional styles they’ve done in the past, but now with greater emphasis on colour and merchandising. “You look at it now and it does look like a proper collection,” Jeffery notes.

Historically there has been the country boot and country shoe collection, then the ‘1829’ collection and the ‘Jermyn Street’ (where the brand still has its long established shop) collection – which are more dress or ‘city’ shoes. The plan going forward is to simplify it, and have the country boots and country shoes as always, and then ‘town’ boots and shoes. They will be the four main categories all the time. “It’s easier for the customer to understand,” says Jeffery. “So we’ll lose ‘1829’ and ‘Jermyn Street’ and they will become ‘Town’ shoes and boots. Shoes that can

be worn to work, but aren’t as dressy as, say, a pair of Church’s or Crockett & Jones, because our handwriting is what it is.”

Each season they will then have a couple of ‘hero’ collections. This season they had one called the ‘Motorcycle’ collection, based around a couple of old motorcycle patterns Tricker’s had made in the past – two boots and three shoes. Another new hero line, called ‘College’, features a longwing pattern brogue based more on an American-type preppy shoe, but given an English twist. Moving forward to s/s 17, Tricker’s is looking at introducing a loafer collection too, as well as their first line of crepesoled shoes.

“It’s very difficult to move away from where the bulk of our sales are, but we need to give the customer more of a defined collection so, when they’re buying into it, it makes it easier for them – rather than them coming to us and dictating what our collections should be,” says Jeffery. “But we don’t want to venture too far from the brand’s DNA and what Tricker’s is known for – and why it’s been going since 1829.” It seems the brand has the right new captain in place to steer it on to even greater times.

ROLLING BACK THE YEARS WITH EARTHY TONES DOMINATING, SILHOUETTES, FABRICS AND PRINTS CONTINUE TO TAKE INFLUENCE FROM THE SEVENTIES THIS SEASON, AS ROLLNECKS, CABLE-KNIT CARDIGANS AND DENSE PRINTS TAKE CENTRE STAGE.

JACKET: PEREGRINE £48 01179 739645 ROLLNECK JUMPER: SLAITH £51.85 01484 848434 TROUSERS: ELVINE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7723 3211

SUIT: SCOTT BY THE LABEL £57 01405 782830 TOP: ELVINE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7723 3211 BOOTS: LOAKE PRICE ON REQUEST 01536 415411 WATCH: STORM £42.99 020 7874 6900 NECKLACE: STYLIST’S OWN

CARDIGAN: JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN PRICE ON REQUEST 01343 554000 SHIRT: SEIDENSTICKER £17.60 01572 723931 TIE: ETON PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7495 0028 TIE CLIP: STYLIST’S OWN

SUIT: SAND £213 0783 7778061 SHIRT: SIMON CARTER PRICE ON REQUEST 020 8683 4475 WATCH: MODEL’S OWN

SUIT: GIBSON £94 01405 782830 SHIRT: ETON PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7495 0028 BOOTS: LOAKE PRICE ON REQUEST 01536 415411 BAG: MATT+NAT £62 07815 784316

JACKET: DOBSON £120 07734 952960 ROLLNECK JUMPER: JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN PRICE ON REQUEST 01343 554000 BAG: EDDIE £150 07506 171532

JACKET: ELVINE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7723 3211 TOP: MERC £22 020 8838 2444 TROUSERS: MERC £24 020 8838 2444

GILET: LAVENHAM PRICE ON REQUEST 01787 379535 JUMPER: SAND £78 07837 778061 TROUSERS: ELVINE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7723 3211 JEWELLERY: MODEL’S OWN

JACKET: FARAH £40 020 7580 5838 CARDIGAN: IL TELAIO £32 07890 261318 SHIRT: CALABAN £31.50 07890 261318

COAT: DOUGLAS £75 07841 970098 T-SHIRT: STYLIST’S OWN JEANS: STYLIST’S OWN JEWELLERY: MODEL’S OWN

PHOTOGRAPHER: CHRIS HARVEY WWW.IAMHARVEY.CO.UK STYLIST: VICTORIA JACKSON GROOMING: LAUREN RIPPIN WWW.LAURENSALLY.CO.UK MODEL: CHRIS MCNEIL AT NEMESIS WWW.NEMESISAGENCY.CO.UK

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NOUS SOMMES PARIS! It’s been a while since we covered the shows in Paris, so it was time we went back to see what the Capsule and Man shows were offering up in terms of brands and products. Tom Bottomley took some picks from each.

— CAPSULE QUATRE CENT QUINZE A new streetwear brand from Paris with a certain ‘je ne sais quoi’, Quatre Cent Quinze (four hundred and fifteen) certainly has a quirky touch. Mainly inspired by hip hop and literature, it’s only tees and sweats at the moment, but the quality is decent, using organic cotton. This is only its second season, and the new collection is called ‘homage’ – paying tribute to the songs, poems, films and artists that fuelled the label’s creative process. There’s a sweatshirt inspired by rapper Kanye West’s song Heartless, one inspired by The Beatles’ Yellow Submarine and another referencing their hit Strawberry Fields Forever. The label’s logo features the face of French poet Arthur Rimbaud, described as “an ardent spirit, a daring youth and a timeless talent.” You kind of need to see it to get it!

INDIVIDUALIZED SHIRTS The origins of Individualized Shirts go back to 1961, with two former Brooks Brothers’ guys setting up on their own label out of a garage.

“They did mom and pop, made to measure shirts in the New York and New Jersey area,” says brand president James Heiser. “About 18 years ago, we started taking everything we did from a custom standpoint and put it in to the ready-to-wear arena. All made in New Jersey, by New Jersey-ites!” It’s the real deal American casual look, dating back to the 60s in terms of product construction and fabrics used. There’s some great checks, chambrays, Oxfords, brushed Donegal and denims. There’s also a number of fits and collar options, with the long button-down the bestseller, closely followed by the ‘short point’ button-down.

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN A new London-based knitwear brand that’s only a year old, but already with a combined shop and workshop/knitting facility in Clerkenwell. This, the first wholesale off the peg collection, is instantly wearable and distinctive, using super soft lambswool spun in Yorkshire. With crew necks, turtle necks, roll necks, hats and scarves, contrast colours and colour blocking are key, though there’s plain options too. Benjamin Taylor and Alice Liptrot are the partners and creative directors, and Liptrot is also the knitter. The made to order knits are made in London; a lighter-weight line is made in Scotland. For wholesale, they can also tailor the colours and styles to different customer requirements. Wholesale prices start at £58-£64 for the Scottish mid-weight knits.

CRESCENT DOWN WORKS Established in 1974 by ex-Eddie Bauer employee Anne Michelson, whose daughter Annie is now the production manager in Seattle, Crescent Down Works is about as good as it gets if you want a quality puffa jacket. It’s all made to order, with a great choice of fabrics and colours, as well as pocket and collar options. They use 700 down fill, meaning that while the insulation is very high, they don’t make you look like the Michelin Man. There are also styles that just have down liners, and there’s a great diagonal quilt bomber style in military green, as well as the brand’s signature hooded ‘Classico’ parka. The brand is very popular in Japan, accounting for a whopping 85 per cent of sales. They’ve also done various product collaborations, including with A.P.C, Woolrich, Mark McNairy and J.Crew.

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MAN WINGS + HORNS All the way from Vancouver and predominantly made there too, Wings + Horns is the older brother of Reigning Champ (CYC Design Corporation is parent company to both brands). When it comes to Europe, it’s only ever shown at the Man show in Paris. There’s a great nylon quilted deck jacket for a/w 16, tailored military fatigue trousers, superb heavyweight jersey pieces including sweats, hoodies and track pants, and knitwear is considered the brand’s speciality. The company has 20 years manufacturing experience, originally starting out making for other brands such as Supreme, A-Life and Nom de Guerre, before launching Wings + Horns’ own brand 11 years ago. The brand doesn’t consider itself to be a ‘fashion’ brand, more about ‘elavated basics.’ It’s kept simple, only using high quality fabrics.

BLEU DE PANAME Another fine vintage French workwear, American sportswear and military-inspired collection from one of Paris’ finest brands, that also happens to manufacture virtually all of its collections in France.

What’s good about Bleu de Paname is they put their own spin on great old pieces, including reworked work jackets, while also creating an overall look with subtle, but sufficient, use of branding.

Among the outerwear pieces that are new for a/w 16 are a ‘stadium’ jacket in a wool fabric, deconstructed blazers, some great gilets and a waterproof jacket with taped seams, pockets aplenty and a detachable quilt lining. Article, Dover Street Market, End Clothing and The Hip Store are all UK stockists, but there are plenty more men’s indies who would benefit from stocking this brand’s kit.

THE HILL-SIDE My, how this brand has grown. The last time we looked it was just making some rather nice ties and pocket squares, progressing to shirting and sneakers, but now it’s a full-blown collection, and very tasty it is too. Joint owned by Tokyo-based Hisashi Oguchi and brothers Emil and Sandy Corsilo, based in Brooklyn, New York, there’s clearly an appreciation and knowledge of great menswear from both sides. Two-button Donegal wool blazers look the part, as does a waterproof Ventile blazer which adds a technical touch.

There’s a great take on a vintage denim jacket, coming in both dark denim and a traditional brown duck cloth. Another fine piece is a fishtail parka, without a hood, and made into a double-breasted smarter style with Donegal Tweed on the inside of the collar.

THE WORKER’S CLUB Abbreviated to TWC on the logo, this is a new line from the former head of design at Dunhill, Adam Cameron. On leaving Dunhill, Cameron created the wardrobe for British spy film Kingsman – not a bad one to have on your CV. That was apparently in conjunction with Mr. Porter, which has had TWC as an exclusive until now. Man was TWC’s first show outing. It’s all about “ultimate staple pieces and building a wardrobe,” says Cameron. Emphasis is on an outerwear jacket that can be bought as three separate pieces and worn together or not, depending on the season. The waterproof outer shell has taped seams; inside add either a gilet, or the down jacket for full warmth. They’ve even developed their own camo, and there’s some decent knitwear and shirting too.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | PEOPLE | 80

COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK GENTRY 108 N 7TH ST, BROOKLYN, NEW YORK

SIMON SAYS There’s a deliciously 80s retro feel to the Eurostar now, as it moves from looking dated to looking cool. I hadn’t been to Paris for years, except all too briefly to nip out of a trade show for a less than average meal about 15 years ago. This time, we packed a picnic, like a couple of elderly biddies on a coach trip to Eastbourne, and were in France by late morning.

Somehow, I’d expected that detached aloofness that I’d always experienced in Paris, that even my other French friends had dismissed, with a Gallic shrug, as being a misplaced sense of superiority. You know what I mean: that glazed look as you speak perfectly decent French that they pretend not to understand, or ignoring your presence at the patisserie to serve Madame behind you.

Such attitude has gone. Everywhere we went we were welcomed with a genuine sincerity. And even more noticeable was how many staff spoke good English. My schoolboy French was scarcely needed.

We stayed at a small but charming hotel in the 7th Arrondissement, near the Musée D’Orsay. Cold, and crisp, with brilliant January sun, the city enchanted me once again. The familiar sights took on a new dimension as I had, unusually for me, time to enjoy.

We wandered through the main streets, then took little back routes.

One thing struck me more than any other, and that was the sheer number of independent shops. Despite France’s economic woes, there were very few vacant premises, and every side street seemed like a village. The patisserie, boulangerie, family-run bistro, cheese shop: all are there, like a mini provincial town, but within a stone’s throw of the Louvre, or Notre Dame.

How different is our retail landscape here in London, and the UK’s major towns and cities. Here, these small local businesses have long disappeared, replaced by chains and multiples. Landlords are responding to demand, and the biggest covenants, which come from the big boys.

But something else is different in Paris; it’s the French way of life.

Parisians value their local shops, and understand the quality, in a way that we just don’t. The retail landscape is not dominated by Tesco local or mini Sainsburys, because the demand isn’t there in the way it is here.

Change is coming here; the big four are suffering, and small is once again beautiful. But I fell in love with Paris, and I can still taste that croissant at the corner patisserie. Vive La France.

Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores

The Gentry store launched three and a half years ago in New York after owner Alan Maleh identified a gap in the retail market. Bringing a number of timeless, iconic brands to the space, in-store Maleh stocks the likes of Engineered Garments, Orslow, Visvim, Eidos Napoli, Junya Watanabe, Alex Mill, New Balance, Ten C, Arpenteur, Stone Island, Ovadia & Sons, Robert Geller, Oliver Peoples and Our Legacy. The brand mix, store aesthetic and company ethos combined attract a diverse customer base ranging from the young to the old. Customers are based in the local area and also from locations as distant as Japan, Paris and the UK – thanks to the store’s strong reputation among the design conscious. Maleh’s latest venture is a pop-up shop that’s recently opened above the Gentry. Man of the World presents a very different aesthetic, showing vintage watches, accessories and leather goods among other categories. Meanwhile, in terms of apparel, the new venture focuses on tailored clothing.

—

PLAN B

LUKE STENZHORN Co-owner, Percival

When I was about 13, I was dragged into getting involved with the dreaded world of school plays.

— Despite my lack of enthusiasm, I somehow landed the lead parts, playing everything from the Artful Dodger to Bugsy Malone. Excruciatingly, I landed the role of Golde – the infamous Jewish mother in Fiddler On The Roof, not the easiest role for a teenage boy. Any street cred I ever had was crumbling around me. However, my overexcited mother made it her mission to turn me into the next Daniel Radcliffe of Harry Potter fame. A few talent scout visits later, and I received a ‘huge’ contract from the BBC to play the role of Samson in Samson SuperSlug (don’t pretend you haven’t heard of it). One little problem. I hate slugs. It was never going to work out. Sorry Mum.

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CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL TOM GLOVER OWNER, PEREGRINE I’d describe my signature style as a contemporary take on traditional and classic design. The modern British gentleman.

I enjoy the art of layering and can usually be found in a shirt, a piece of knitwear, a jacket and jeans or chinos. I have fun with my socks: stripes are my thing at the moment.

— Living in central Bristol, I find myself walking almost everywhere. So I’d say the Peregrine limited edition ‘Titan’ jacket is my most worn piece this season. As everyone knows, the UK weather forecast is unpredictable, and I need a jacket that is stylish, yet resistant to all weather. Especially when I’m walking our studio terrier, Baxter. If he needs to go, he needs to go! The jacket is made from Hainsworth Titan cotton which has been used previously for the manufacturing of firefighter uniforms. It has an impressive heat and flame resistance, as well as being comfortable and durable. On warmer, drier days I will be seen in our ‘Bromley’ jacket. A classic navy pea coat with a Peregrine accent. Manufactured from Melton wool, all of our designs are proudly made in England.

— I’ve always admired and been a supporter of British brands. I like their modern fits and quality production. When I need shirts I head to Oliver Spencer. The brand offers a great range of relaxed Oxfords for everyday wear. I’m currently wearing the ‘Clerkenwell’ tab collar shirt in navy.

— Edwin jeans are my favourite when it comes to denim. I like a slim fit, so I wear the slim tapered ED80 in a variety of shades. My feet are often seen stomping around in J.Shoes chukka boots or a classic brogue. The ‘Spinner’ boot in mid brown is the pair I wear most. They’re great for smart and casual occasions, and I wear them around the office a lot. Burberry and Orlebar Brown can also be found creeping into my wardrobe. I have a black Burberry raincoat which is a great spring-to-autumn, lightweight piece. And Orlebar Brown ‘Bulldog’ swim shorts always come with me on my holiday. They bring the party to the pool with their snazzy prints!

TOP TWEETS Robin Tabari Love @RobinTabariLove #WhyICantSleepAtNight 1) Twitter 2) Hungry 3) Netflix 4) I think too much about things that’ll never happen Alex Foley @Afoley_WP Had some major survival dreams after watching #TheRevenant last night. Needless to say I would’ve died in the opening 20 minutes.

Lambert’s Yard @LAMBERTSYARD Wintour is coming! 2 days to go until @HARD_Magazine fashion show, and Q&A with Anna #thenorthernyouth #vogue KANYE WEST @kanyewest This is not album of the year. This is album of the life.

Grey Fox @GreyFoxBlog Off north to meet @HirschTailoring to plot suits and #madeinUK wool, cloth and tailoring #fromsheeptosuit Duke of York Square @DOYSQ Celebrate #BurnsNight in style with @JigsawMenswear’s dark tartan singlebreasted slim-fit jacket. #MenswearMonday The Industry @INDLondon Men’s fashion market now growing at a faster rate than women’s. terry donovan @terrydonovan87 Grey on grey on grey on grey. In Paris for #JackPurcell x @thesartorial7 what a day!

SOCIETY THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.

p MODEL JOHANNES HUEBL AT THE A/W 16 OLIVER SPENCER SHOW AT LAST MONTH’S LONDON COLLECTIONS MEN.

p DIESEL’S ARTISTIC DIRECTOR NICOLA FORMICHETTI AT THE LAUNCH OF THE BRAND’S S/S 16 CAMPAIGN, ALONG WITH GUESTS SUCH AS MODEL BIP LING, DJ JODIE HARSH AND BLOGGER ELLA CATLIFF.

p WALPOLE HAS REVEALED THE 2016 SELECTION FOR ITS BRANDS OF TOMORROW PROGRAMME, WHICH PROVIDES 12 CHOSEN BRANDS WITH BESPOKE LEARNING UNDER THE MENTORSHIP OF LEADERS FROM SOME OF BRITAIN’S FINEST LUXURY BRANDS, INCLUDING THOMAS PINK, HARRODS, BREMONT, THE SAVOY AND ALEXANDER MCQUEEN.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2016 | 83

THE BOTTOMLEY LINE MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

JE SUIS A RIGHT LIMPING CHARLIE And so back to Paris for the shows, for the first time in ages. Unfortunately I’ve had repercussions from an old knee injury, and damaged it further with front and rear cartilage tears: not ideal when descending on the city of love. A knee under siege shall we say, much like the city itself of late.

Anyway, what a pleasure it was to return. And the shows were equally as palatable. My natural radar took me to the fifth floor of Capsule to start off with (the lifts were well appreciated), where Jameson whiskey cocktails instantly hit the mark.

To be honest, the fifth floor didn’t have too much else to offer product-wise; the main good stuff was to be found on the third floor and in the basement. My picks are in this issue, but one other worth a special note is Grenfell – not included in my show write up, but then they did get a feature out of me recently. Anyway, it’s proper serious outerwear: they’re definitely not skimping on the quality and fabrics that befit such an old guard British brand which has had its fair share of Royal Warrants. I’d have gladly walked away with at least seven of the pieces, and that’s a pretty good buy when you add in different colour options.

The Man show was probably even better to be honest, but slightly trickier on a rickety knee. I even took a stumble on entering, with a sharp pain eased by some very gratefully received paracetamol from Les Basics owner Kieron Hurley, who’d apparently been dishing them out all morning – no doubt to a few people who’d taken the free cocktails at Capsule to another level. The winding staircase was certainly a challenge, but the higher you went, the better the product seemed to get. It’s all about putting the effort in with these shows!

SMART SHOPPING ON THE UP FROM OFF-SHORE PUNTERS Recent figures released from the British Retail Consortium have highlighted the increase in the use of smartphones as a purchasing platform, now called m-commerce if you want to get with the lingo. But the more interesting thing is that international shoppers hitting on British brands and e-tailers (it still doesn’t feel correct writing that) is seriously growing.

Dan Wagner, founder and CEO of Powa Technologies, says: “The research from the British Retail Consortium (BRC) shows a clear and

p JASON STATHAM t MAN TRADESHOW, PARIS

expected increase of the smartphone as a purchasing platform. It is promising to see that international shoppers are a big part of this, with many browsing for UK brands on their mobile device.

“According to Google and the BRC, beauty and apparel enjoyed the biggest rise in search volumes on mobile devices, between 41 per cent and 51 per cent for the final quarter of 2015. This makes it clear that m-commerce is continuing its expansion and is a platform that consumers want.” Apologies for the long quote, but he has a point. So when you’re next sitting in a Paris cafe and you think Lucille is texting Cecil, she’s actually buying a new Burberry coat, in the season’s musthave colour.

Wagner goes on to say that traditional bricks and mortar retailers are “not necessarily doomed.” Thank Christ for that! Apparently they just need to transform their offering by “bringing together a customer’s in-store and online experience, reaching out to consumers on their mobiles as they walk past a store, for instance, and enabling them to buy instantly on their smartphone.”

Call me old fashioned, but why walk past a store and buy something on your mobile when

you can pop in, try something on and walk out feeling great? I must be from another age; shopping used to be fun.

LOCK, STOCK AND ONE SMOKING JACKET Jason Statham, the luckiest actor alive, who has completely smashed Hollywood as the tough guy taking over from Bruce Willis and co. has, for some reason unknown, been photographed next to an Audi at the recent 76th Hahnenkamm Ski Race weekend in Kitzbuhel, wearing a Matchless ‘Fulham’ jacket, Matchless ‘Icon’ boots and jeans from Matchless’ new denim collection.

I did ask what the hell the connection was, but didn’t get an answer in time for this issue, so let’s just call it publicity for publicity’s sake. Mind you, the faux-cockney geezer – Statham was actually born in Shirebrook, a town in the Bolsover district of north-east Derbyshire, and I knew something was amiss with that accent in the opening sequence of Lock, Stock... – does look the part. A boxer’s ‘red rose’, and baker boy cap set off the look, but he looks more like he’s ready for tear up at the après–ski than a tear down the black run.

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BLAKE MYCOSKIE Dubbed ‘chief shoe giver’, TOMS founder Blake Mycoskie speaks to MWB about his renowned One for One concept, how he plans on supporting fellow social entrepreneurs and what the next step is for the footwear label.

— DOB: 26 August 1976 Place of Birth: Arlington, Texas Lives: Topanga, LA, California Twitter: @BlakeMycoskie Website: www.toms.com

The one-for-one concept of TOMS is now renowned worldwide. Where did the idea originate from?

It began during a trip to Argentina almost 10 years ago. I was intrigued by the traditional Argentinian shoe called the Alpargata. On this same trip, I discovered that, in rural villages, there were many children in need of shoes and the hardships that came along with that. So I felt compelled to come up with a solution: a for-profit business concept that empowers consumers to help a child through an everyday purchase. For every pair purchased, TOMS can give a pair to a child in need. One for One. The simple act of making a purchase and that improving another life. Since then, my mission is very simple: it’s to use business to improve lives. After giving shoes for five years, in 2011, we started to help restore sight through eyewear. Since then, we launched coffee which offered clean water and most recently, we are supporting training and distribution of safe birth kits with our newly launched bag collection.

What can we expect from the a/w 16 offering?

We are continuing to diversify our product selections and strengthening the designs of our shoes with the introduction of a new range of cold weather footwear. We are revealing new footwear silhouettes and winterised favourites including the mountain-inspired Summit and stylishly versatile Laurel with tribal notes for women and kids, and the Ashland for men, a perfect rugged boot for new adventures and everyday winter wear. There’s the ultimate city sneaker for men, the Lenox, in effortlessly stylish nubucks and suedes, and the Brogue Boot and

Mateo Chukka in updated waterproofed leathers and wool. We are also continuing to winterise our Alpargatas with the addition of a new outsole, revamped plaids, knits and shearling.

this space and hoping that they can achieve the same type of success as TOMS. If and when they do, it will truly mark a sea change in the way business can be used to improve people’s lives.

Is it right that every employee goes on a giving trip when they join?

Absolutely! Our employees have the opportunity to experience giving to the fullest, first-hand. We offer our TOMS employees the chance to go on a TOMS Giving Trip after their first year at TOMS and then every three years to see the incredible work our Giving Partners do in the field. This encourages every single member of our company to spend time with individual children who receive our shoes, and helps them understand how they contribute to the larger vision of TOMS and the amazing work of our TOMS Giving Partners. Currently, TOMS carries out Giving Trips in 11 countries, visiting both Shoe and Sight Giving Partners, mainly located in Central and South America.

Another initiative that I am really excited about is the TOMS Social Entrepreneurship Fund launched earlier this year. I am pushing my commitment further to invest in the next generation of social entrepreneurs and to support other up-and-coming startups making a difference. I am agnostic about the exact nature of the startups I am funding, as long as they have a core social mission as opposed to a corporate responsibility arm and the founders are crazy about what they’re doing. The fund has already made 11 investments. I am committed to re-investing in purpose-driven entrepreneurs with innovative ideas, and will continue to do so.

We’re cheering on so many other companies in

What would you say has been your biggest challenge since establishing the brand?

One thing I’ve learned is that not everyone understands that social enterprise is a viable growth business model at first, but eventually they do often begin to adopt it. I was challenged a lot, and still am, but we are forging a new wave of business and that’s an exciting stage to be in. I truly believe we are an example of how business can help improve lives and I’m committed to seeing this through. We’re transforming the conversation about making a difference in people’s lives and our responsibility to invest in people. Social entrepreneurship is here to stay: this is not just a trend, but an idea that will continue to have a profound effect on how business is done and how consumers purchase.

We all gain when businesses make human rights a priority.

What advice would you give to someone looking to start their own business?

I think if you’re passionate about something, don’t worry about the size of the market or how big it could become. Get it right in a small way first.

When we started, I was trying to help 250 kids. I wasn’t thinking about 50 million kids. The main thing to remember is whatever you’re going to do, do it really well and do it small, and if you’re successful there, business will come. So that’s my big piece of advice: start small, focus, get it right and then let the growth come.

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